Kanoo World Traveller_Nov'12

THE MIDDLE EAST’S BIGGEST TRAVEL MAGAZINE

11

NoVEMBER 2012

Things to do in chocolatebox Brussels Produced in International Media Production Zone

ice maiden

China lets loose at its flamboyant snow festival

Australia Dive headfirst into the Great Barrier Reef

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in

We

Andy Lynes tucks into a gourmet getaway

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Hairpin turns and spectacular scenery on the road in Spain

Sweden

A lu Pa xu rk ry Hy cit at y b t A re bu ak Dh at t ab he i

Round the Bend

Armani Hotel Dubai +971 4 888 3888 or email dubai@armanihotels.com Armani Hotel Milan +39 02 8883 8888 or email milan@armanihotels.com armanihotels.com

KaNOO WOrld TravEllEr NoveMBer 2012

CONTENTS TrAveL BITeS 05 check in

A trio of inside scoops on the latest hotel openings, plus where to best spend the snow-dipped ski season...

16 competition

Win a luxe city break at the Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi, plus dinner to boot

18 Where to stay

The best boltholes money can buy in bustling Bangkok.

33

21 the seychelles

We spotlight the swankiest spots in which to stay in this island idyll

26 picture this

Snapshots from around the world to stir the senses...

66 visit: brussels

Why the chocolate-box city is our pick for festive flair and tasty fare

68 visit: reykjavik

Why this Icelandic city scores big in the cool stakes

52

58

72 suite dreams

Spend the night teetering above the treetops Down Under

feATUreS 33 mexico Mick Webb uncovers the stuff of legends in the western coast

38 sWeden

Andy Lynes takes a culinary trip through this gourmet wonderland

44 great barrier reef

KWT takes a dive into the world’s largest (and most stunning) coral reef system

52 spain

A northern road trip sends Sankha Guha round the bend – for all the right reasons

58 china

How sparkling Harbin brings new meaning to the term ‘winter wonderland’

Aerial view of Managing Director: Victoria Hazell-Thatcher the Great Barrier Reef, Queensland, Publishing Director: John Thatcher Australia.

Advertisement Director: Chris Capstick Corbis Images. chris@hotmediapublishing.com +971 4 369 0917

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Group editor: Laura Binder

Production Manager: Haneef Abdul

laura@hotmediapublishing.com

Senior Advertisement Manager:

Sub editor: Hazel Plush

Stefanie Morgner

hazel@hotmediapublishing.com

stefanie@hotmediapublishing.com

Designers: Adam Sneade, Vanessa Arnaud

+971 4 446 1558

Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in Kanoo World Traveller.

Jun-Dec 2011 23,120 BPA Consumer Audit Produced by: HOT Media Publishing FZ LLC

November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 3

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CHECK IN

BE INformEd, BE INspIrEd, BE THErE

London

A Right RoyAl time

The revival of London’s iconic Café Royale into a five-star hotel shows the timehonoured haunt has no plans of retiring yet.

KWT relives the legend with manager Louis Sailer ahead of its December 1 opening Café Royal is an institution. The listed building dates back 150 years – and if walls could talk they would whisper historic tales of decadence, glittering parties, royal feasts and famous guests (royalty included).

“By the end of the century, Café Royal had become a London landmark that welcomed great minds”, tells the hotel’s newly-appointed manager, Louis Sailer. Indeed, the 1890s put the then-restaurant on a pedestal, with only the city’s most fashionable and fabulous sitting down to dinner – Oscar Wilde, Rudyard Kipling and W B Yeats among them. (Oscar Wilde, a tipple too many, famously mistook a waiter stacking chairs in the Grill Room for a man watering tulips. But that’s another story…)

More impressive still is the fact that Café Royal’s appeal has lasted each decade, spiralling its way through eras with the kind of pizazz that touches only the biggest stars: the thirties and forties swept the November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 5

likes of Virginia Woolf and Winston Churchill into its hold; the 20th century brought beauties like Brigitte Bardot and Elizabeth Taylor through its doors, plus boxing great Muhammed Ali (who perhaps heard how the 1890s once staged boxing matches inside). Even royalty were not immune to the restaurant’s charms; the late Princess Diana having been a regular patron in the 1980s.

Café Royal’s eventual closure, then, is sure to have left regulars bemused (and probably rather hungry). After being acquired by luxe hotel group The Set, it closed its doors to the great and good in 2008, and they have remained that way for these four years. Until now.

Happily for celebs, style-conscious travellers and the simply curious, its re-opening next month brings with it prolonged chances to experience Café Royal – as well as revived restaurants (four in total, plus one exclusive lounge) – you can spend nights in one of 159 bedrooms and suites, the latter inspired by Regent Street’s original architect, John Nash.

One hopes, though, that at least some traces of its famous history have remained intact? “Absolutely!,” Sailer assures KWT. “Our aim was to infuse this iconic Grade II listed building with modern design.

We have worked closely with David Chipperfield Architects and Donald Insall Associates to sensitively restore the historic public spaces of Café Royal (such as the Grill and Domino rooms and the Pompadour Suite) whilst simultaneously creating contemporary spaces in our rooms and suites.”

Where is the best spot to absorb some of the venue’s welldocumented history then? “Both the Domino and Grill Rooms,” advises Sailer, with the former showcasing a restored ceiling (“so guests will dine under a sumptuous canopy of bold cartouches surrounding still life canvases of fruit, flowers and small birds”), and the Grill Rooms bringing “ornate Louis XVI style with elaborate gold leaf detailing and enriched panelled mouldings” to the fore.

When it comes to the boudoirs, there are six historic suites to choose from though for a taste of the new Café Royal, the Dome Suite is Sailer’s choice. “Located on the sixth floor, this circular open-plan suite has two spacious terraces boasting breath-taking views over London taking in Westminster, Big Ben, the sweep of Regent Street and the bright lights of Piccadilly Circus.” Not only that, but we’re told modern touches include a DJ booth, dome ceiling and mint green solid marble tub for two.

To continue its success well into the 21st century, the Café Royal has a few new tricks up its sleeve too: all-new areas include a Akasha Holistic Wellbeing Centre (private hammam and Watsu pool included), private members’ club Café Royal Club and lashings of luxe-yetcontemporary detailing. (We like the sound of “a solid Carrera marble bathtub and bespoke furniture” in each bathroom.)

And while East London’s Hoxton and Shoreditch have enjoyed the most prime time of late for modern day celebs (Alexa Chung, we mean you), we’d say that Café Royal’s revival on 68 Regent Street – with exclusive Mayfair to the west and vibrant Soho to the east – marks a return to favour for the West End. Just beware the paparazzi flashes as you leave… hotelcaferoyal.com

6 November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

GLOBAL

New Year, New Look

Hotels everywhere are gearing up for 2013 with epic makeovers and all-new additions – KWT picks its top 3 must-see spaces Al Raha Beach Hotel, Abu Dhabi, UAE

The May Fair, London, UK

Sharq Village & Spa, Qatar, Doha

New look: Extension Sneak peek: As if this five-star hotel wasn’t luxe enough, it’s gone one step further with a multi-million dollar extension, bringing 144 extra reasons to make for the property. Among them is all-new rooms (featuring designer furniture), suites (bestowing Jacuzzi baths) and dining outlets (Pan Asian… Sushi Bar… Cuban lounge, take your pick), complete with sprawling al fresco terraces.

Why go? If you seek blond beaches, turquoise shores and an abundance of Arabic charm Abu Dhabi is rarely rivalled by its global counterparts at this time of year. danathotels.com

New look: Suite Sneak peek: It’s the hotel of choice for big wig editors and models during London Fashion Week, which is perhaps why the city’s most fashionable address saw cause to add a 13th suite to its collection of Signature Suites – The Ebony Suite. Inside, every inch exudes style, from the private terrace to its progressive, Japanese technology (the bath is illuminated and changes colour) and chic interiors – as the name suggests, dark dramatic finishes reign.

Why go? For a slick city break of A-list standards, this hotel proves a glamorous go-to address. themayfairhotel.co.uk

New look: Royal Villa Sneak peek: When your hotel residence looks as regal as Sharq Village it’s hard to raise the bar – yet that’s exactly what this resort has done with its newest offering. The Royal Villa is a 2,099 square metre space inspired by a Sheikh’s palace, bringing lucky guests a palatial pick of suites, majlis seating area, study and dining room. Best of all, its no-detailsspared design incorporates authentic Qatari designs, from stone carvings to and mosaics.

Why go? Those pining for the royal treatment will have all delusions of grandeur met with a stay here. sharqvillage.com

If you do 4 things this November…

If money were no object and travel came for free, our advice is to globetrot your way to these fab four...

See the Sport of Kings at an Emirati Palace It’s not every day one gets to cheer on chukkas on a palace’s grounds, but November 23-24 sees the lawns of the mighty Emirates Palace hotel host four world-class teams from London, Milan, Abu Dhabi and Buenos Aires in the Coutts Polo at the Palace tournament. Expect high glamour – but only for 1,000 VIPs. citypoloseries.com 8 November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

Make for new luxury in mystical Marrakech Morgans’ new Delano Marrakech hotel blends all the exoticism of Morocco with the hotel group’s trademark style. Visit while it’s hot-off-the-press and you can be among the first to sample its all-new interiors (precious marbles meet sumptuous velvet); Michelin-starred cuisine and 360 degree views from its Sky Lounge. delanomarrkech.com

See Islamic Art in Paris The new Department of Islamic Art is making waves at the worldfamous Louvre in more ways than one – the roof to the centre looks like a real life iron ripple while, inside, some 3,000 artworks (some of them on public display for the first time) are housed.

Make for the formerly empty courtyard of Louvre Palace’s southern wing and prepare to be amazed… louvre.fr

Give thanks in the Big Apple November 22 is the date to be in New York city where it all kicks off, each and every year for the past 85 years, in bright and bold form: The Thanksgiving Day parade. Those determined to watch the highlights in comfort can do so with a seriously swanky package at the New York Hilton, set on the main Sixth Avenue stretch. newyorkhilton.com

More space to be yourself...

More space to be yourself...

Space, luxury, privacy. Each of our wonderfully stylish suites, penthouses and villas offers the ultimate in exclusivity, bringing a touch of European flair to Dubai, for you and your family.

Space, luxury, privacy. Each of our wonderfully stylish suites, We were pleased to be presented with two awards at the recent penthouses and villas offers the ultimate in exclusivity, bringing World Travel Awards, including Middle East’s Leading Penthouse. a touch of European flair to Dubai, for you and your family.

We were pleased to be presented with two awards at the recent Some are too good to keep.

World Travel Awards, including Middle East’s Leading Penthouse.

secrets

Some secrets are too good to keep. www.kempinski.com/palmjumeirah T +971 4 444 2000

UAE

Capital Vision The Ritz-Carlton’s first Abu Dhabi outpost is a design gem in the making – as KWT’s Laura Binder discovers...

Setting foot inside the seriously grandiose lobby of the Ritz-Carlton Abu Dhabi Grand Canal – chandeliers cascading overhead – you know you’re in for a heavy helping of that world-famous ‘Ritz glitz’.

Happily, the Welcome Ambassador before me presents authentic Arabic coffee and a pyramid of plump dates, which gives me just enough time to drink-in the all-new surrounds and, in the distance, the Grand Mosque...

The capital’s sister city of Dubai already plays hostess to not one but two Ritz-Carlton hotels (take your pick from beach views at JBR or skyscraper-lined vistas at DIFC), so the opening of an Abu Dhabi outpost was always going to cause a stir. Thankfully, your patience won’t have to last much longer: before 2013 rolls in, you too will be able to set foot inside that lobby. A feature that the hotel’s manager, Pep Lozano, refers to as its ‘crowning glory’. “I really feel there is no other hotel in Abu Dhabi that provides the sense of arrival we do,” he told me, “the grand architecture, the design detail, the stunning chandeliers… it’s simply breathtaking.”

Get past that façade and its interiors will turn your head too.

“Within the hotel, you will see rich tones and textures, intricate detailing in the marble and mosaic, and hand-selected art pieces,” revealed Lozano. And, fittingly for an American hotel brand in the heart of the UAE, Arabic influences are abound: “Throughout the hotel, including the marble flooring in the lobby, the design on the guestroom doors and elevator interiors, stitching in the bed linens, and on our plateware, you will see an acanthus leaf design which is a 10 November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

replica of a design from inside the Mosque,” Lozano shared.

More exciting still for foodies (myself included) is the bevy of restaurants set to not only serve stellar cuisine (the chef du cuisine of its Asian eatery Li Jiang is from the Michelin-starred kitchens of a London restaurant) but standout settings by international, awardwinning interior design company Super Potato. “The Ritz-Carlton was committed to providing an elevated level of dining in Abu Dhabi and to do this, we needed to first set the stage with unique venues,” Lozano explained. “Super Potato designed our three signature restaurants – Asian, Lebanese and steak house – and it’s the first time they have done this for a single venue.”

Could Lozano give me a taste of what’s to come? “Super Potato is known for using natural materials such as wood, stone and fabrics, and also incorporating unique lighting – which they have done extraordinarily well in all three unique restaurant concepts,” he told me in hushed tones – mum’s the word, I promised. And for those reaching for the restaurant reservation’s number, my tip is to first try Li Jiang (“the restaurant we are anticipating most”). “We will have a specialty Asian noodle chef and guests will be able to watch all of the animation as Li Jiang has a gorgeous open kitchen in the centre of the restaurant,” Lozano revealed.

It seems there’ll be plenty to lock eyes onto, so which room takes the biscuit? “Our private villas. Each one has a private garden and terrace – perfect for a family barbecue created by a Ritz-Carlton chef – as well as butler service.” Watch this space. ritzcarlton.com

UAE

Business or Pleasure?

Dubai’s new JW Marriott Marquis will be a magnet for luxe-seeking travellers but, as manager Rupprecht Queitsch tells KWT, there’s plenty for the non-suited and booted to enjoy too…

12 November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

Under the Arabian sun Dubai virtually boils over with ambition – which is why the opening of JW Marriott Marquis this December couldn’t be better timed: those travelling to the Emirate on business will feel considerably less hot under the collar thanks to the facilities on offer.

For starters, the new hotel offers the Marriott brand at its most luxurious. “The Marquis endorsement is reserved for iconic properties in the Marriott International portfolio, defined by their scale, grandeur and location,” explains manager, Rupprecht Queitsch. What’s more, such luxury is coupled with abundant space – fitting for a city famed for thinking big. “The hotel will fill a long identified gap in the market where groups, meetings and conventions of up to 1,000 people can meet, sleep and dine under one roof, in one location,” says Queitsch.

As well as being the first Marriott in Dubai with the prestigious ‘Marquis’ tag to its name, the venue promises a few more ‘firsts’ for the city. “Once both towers are open, it will not only be the tallest dedicated hotel building in the world, but also the largest in the region offering 1,608 hotel rooms, 9 restaurants, 5 lounges, a world-class Saray Spa and 5,000sqm of event space.”

And one first everyone will be only too pleased to experience is the hotel’s partnership with Atul Kotchar – the first ever Indian chef to gain a Michelin star. “He will launch his first fine dining restaurant in the Middle East called Rang Mahal by Atul Kochhar,” tells Queitsch.

“Signature dishes will include the Konju Moilee, which is Scottish lobster, fricassee of okra and mango, served with Atul’s signature moilee sauce.”

Such features, then, mean you won’t have to be in town on business to enjoy the hotel’s pleasures. Spalovers too should ready themselves for the top-to-toe Mariott Marquis treatment at the Saray Spa. A must-try treatment? “The signature Saray Spa Dead Sea Journey which includes a scrub with authentic Jordanian sea salt.”

Suites too defy business hotels’ reputation as, well, lacking in soul or style. “The two bi-level suites on the 69 and 70th floor spread over 600 square meters and have outstanding views over the Dubai skyline and the Arabian Gulf,” tells Queitsch. We’d say that goes above and beyond business as usual. marriott.com

W H E R E YO U R S TAY MEETS YOUR LIFE

DISCOVER THE NEW DESIGN OF PULLMAN DUBAI DEIRA CITY CENTRE

• Experience a newly renovated hotel located in the heart of Deira • Stay in beautifully appointed guestrooms with chic amenities • Leisure shopping and fun entertainment at the adjoined mall • Interactive dining, rooftop swimming pool, spa and fitness facilities

PULLMAN DUBAI DEIR A CIT Y CENTRE

P O B o x 6 1 8 7 1 D e i ra , D u b a i - U n i t e d A ra b E m i ra t e s • + 9 7 1 ( 4 ) 7 0 2 8 0 0 0 • H 2 0 2 2 @ a c c o r. c o m

Book your reservation at: PULLMANHOTELS.COM • ACCORHOTELS.COM MORE THAN 60 HOTELS IN 20 COUNTRIES

CheCk in | news GLoBAL

EuRoPE

Winter Wonderland

Ski season is here, which is why KWT simply can’t let November pass without spotlighting the most magical snow-topped turfs to make for this winter

Reach Your Peak

For ski retreats with Bond-worthy levels of glamour, check in to one of these cool-as-ice newcomers…

The Alpina Gstaad December 1 marks the grand opening of this – the first new build hotel in glamorous Gstaad for 100 years. The region has long drawn the likes of Roger Moore and Elizabeth Taylor to its peaks, and this contemporary (and seriously swanky) stop-off promises all the luxe trimmings and touches an A-lister could wish for (New York eatery MEGU, huge Six Senses spa and thrill-seeking snow sports among them). thealpinagstaad.ch

Those itching for the slopes should make for the top of Sweden’s Mount Förberget where the Copperhill Mountain Lodge is as cute as it sounds. Inside, rooms manage to be cosy and cool (think faux fur throws and open fires), making it just the spot to retreat to after a day on the slopes with a plate of its revered Nordic fare. The jet set always makes for Verbier come ski season and Hotel Nevaï has become something of a legend thanks to its celeb clientele (we hear Diana Ross and David Bowie are regulars).

For those after a buzzing après-ski social scene, it’s hard to beat. You won’t mind the cold on reaching the modern mountain lodge The Omnia in snow-dipped Zermatt.

Sat in the shadow of the Switzerland’s legendary peak, the Matterhorn, its cutting edge architecture is the perfect prelude to its cool interiors – a highlight being The Cavern lounge, where you can sup mocktails in a man-made cave overlooking a pool of water. Seasoned skiiers should make for Japan, where our hotel pick is Kimamaya Boutique Hotel. Here floors are made of timber, open fireplaces flicker and relief from the pistes can be found in the wooden or stone tubs of the bolthole’s spa, or devouring French fare at its awardwinning Barn restaurant. Just save some energy for the famous ski resort of Niseko – home to the region’s best deep snow runs.

The Carlton Hotel St Mortiz The largest penthouse in St Moritz is opens for the season on December 14 – and it promises to be one stylish off-piste sanctuary. Interiors are the work of revered Swiss interior designer Carlo Rampazzi, while the space stretches across some three bedrooms and offers not one but five terraces – what better place to soak up panoramic views of the alpine valley with a cup of hot cocoa? en.carlton-stmoritz.ch November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 15

HoT offERS

Win a luxe break here... at the Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi

THE PRIZE Two nights in a Park Suite for two, including breakfast, plus a meal worth AED500 at a hotel restaurant of your choice. To enter, email your answer to easywin@ hotmediapublishing.com before 30 November, 2012.

Q. Where is the capital of Abu Dhabi located? a) UAE b) USA c) UK Set on a nine-kilometer stretch of honeyhued Saadiyat Island sands, jet setters will find the regal Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi Hotel.

Just 25 minutes from Abu Dhabi International Airport, the resort appears like a sanctuary from the busy UAE capital. And once there we bet you won’t want to leave. And who could blame you? Sports-lovers will be thrilled to find the famous Saadiyat Beach Golf Club right next door – a stunning setting from which to perfect your swing. Treatmentlovers, meanwhile, will want to make straight for the super-swish environs of the hotel’s 16 November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

Atarmia Spa to savour all manner of pampering before sinking into a standout swimming pool. And as if that wasn’t enough, a cluster of standout restaurants serve everything from Asian cuisine and Middle Eastern fare to beachside bites – sure to tempt even the most seasoned foodies.

When it comes to where to rest your head, there are some 306 rooms to choose from, plus spacious private villas. Whichever you plump for you’ll be privy to rolling vistas of beautiful beach or the hotel’s manicured gardens. abudhabi.park.hyatt.com

TERMS AND CONDITIONS: Prize is valid until 31 May 2013, subject to availability and black-out dates.

Prize is non-transferable and is not exchangeable for cash. Prize does not include flights, spa treatments and purchases; other exclusions apply.Prize meal can be claimed at any Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi food and beverage outlet.

Taj. Forever seductive, forever trusted, forever enchanting. From authentic Indian palaces to landmark city hotels, from dazzling resort properties to pastoral safari lodges, enjoy a thoughtful blend of tradition and modernity in the distinctive and highly personal Taj manner. Fabulous suites, splendid dining, and tranquil Jiva spas await. Discover the Taj difference at over 100 hotels around the world.

For reservations and special offers visit tajhotels.com, email reservations@tajhotels.com, call 800.035.702.467 toll free or contact your travel consultant.

India • New York • Boston • San Francisco • London • Cape Town • Zambia • Dubai • Maldives • Sri Lanka • Langkawi • Bhutan • Sydney • Opening Shortly: Marrakech

WheRe To STAy...

bAngKoK

Fast-paced, vivacious and teeming with life, Thailand’s capital makes for an energising city break – be sure to base yourself in one of these little beauties...

START

Traditional touch

OR OR

Little luxuries

Grand designs

OR

New vision

See

OR

Four Seasons Bangkok

Be seen

lebua at State Tower

fourseasons.com

lebua.com

With Jim Thompson silk wallpapers, antique teak furniture and hand-painted artworks throughout, this is the place to stay if you’re after a glimpse of old Bangkok. The Spa by Mspa offers traditional Thai treats too, with its signature Oriental Ginger Bath and deep-tissue massages.

This lavish bolthole has everything a well-heeled traveller could wish for, but you’ll probably be too busy gazing out of the window to notice. Everything here is about the view: check in to a river- or city-view suite for a balcony all of your own, or head to Sky Bar for panoramic rooftop vistas.

Glorious gardens

Stand-out spa

Style statement

The Sukhothai

Dusit Thani Bangkok

Hansar Bangkok

sukhothai.com

dusit.com

hansarbangkok.com

okurabangkok.com

Surrounded by serene lakes and gardens galore, this little oasis feels worlds away from busy Bangkok. Dine in the lotus flowerfringed Celadon restaurant.

The tranquil Devarana Spa is an oasis amid the city bustle: choose from a divine array of treatments, dine on health-giving cuisine, and wallow in the glassy waters.

Towering over the heart of the city, these digs feature designer details throughout. Our favourite? The eerie ‘floating’ bedrooms of the Vertigo Suites...

Covering 302 square-metres of the hotel’s top floor, the Imperial Suite is a truly magnificent abode – and guests enjoy access to the exclusive Okura Club Lounge too.

18 November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

OR

OR

Bank statement

The Okura Prestige Bangkok

Vehicle depicted is for representation purpose only.

THE NEW LS FROM HERE, PERFECTION IS SUDDENLY IN SIGHT

Redefined in its styling, luxury and performance, the new 2013 Lexus LS boldly moves forward in its journey to perfection with the 4.6 litre 382 HP engine or the 5 litre 438 HP Hybrid variant.

The new LS showcases 3 world-first features – Advanced Interior Illumination, Climate Concierge and Pre-Crash Safety system with collision avoidance. 5 Drive Mode options allow you the luxury to choose the way you want to drive. F-SPORT package available for the first time.

tel: 800 LEXUS (53987) lexus.ae

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kwt promotion

paradise calling Leave reality behind for an island getaway in the sparkling Seychelles

November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 21

raffles praslin seychelles Praslin Island Located on the magical island of Praslin, are eighty-six architecturally exquisite villas with private plunge pools, touched by the sublime beauty of white powdered sands, opal-hued oceans and lush green hills. The ideal place to indulge in luxury, Raffles Praslin is infused with the Seychellois spirit and the legendary 24-hour Raffles Butler service. The romantics can savour their one-of-a-kind moment with a couple’s massage, private dinner on the beach, sunset cruise and the most spectacular Indian Ocean views to awake to.

22 November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

Those looking for more active pursuits can explore the mystic forest of Vallée de Mai, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, hop over to one of the many neighbouring islands, or enjoy the resort beachfront and the nearby Anse Lazio beach, ideal for swimming, kayaking and snorkelling. The epicureans can delight in Curieuse Seafood Restaurant or one of the colourful themed evenings of Losean Restaurant; enjoy a signature drink at the Pool Bar, meet for beverages and beats in the Danzil Lounge Bar, or relax

at the Takamaka Terrace for mocktails and panoramic views. When it comes to relaxation, the award-winning Raffles Spa is a destination in itself, famous the world over. With outdoor pavilions and the very best pampering experience, the Raffles Spa takes body, mind and spirit back to a state of pure serenity. Only fifteen minutes by plane or helicopter from Mahé island, and a million miles from the ordinary, the charming Raffles Praslin is loved by those with a taste for the very best. raffles.com/praslin

kwt promotion

Maia luxury resort & spa Mahé Island

‘Whatever, wherever, whenever’ is the philosophy of this 30-villa, five-star resort which dots its way across the pristine sands of a private peninsula. For guests it makes for truly personal services throughout their stay: from now until March 2013, Maia’s Winter Collection of Emotions package presents a bespoke menu of once-in-a-lifetime experiences. Want to track a whale shark by helicopter before sweeping down and tagging the 12-metre-long mammal, aiding

research of the species in the process? You got it. How about flying to Aride island (the largest natural reserve in the Seychelles) and seeing its resident turtles, birdlife and plants up close before tucking in to a butler-served lunch? Absolutely. Those travelling after March 2013 won’t miss out either; Summer Collection of Emotions promises a whole new line-up of outstanding pursuits. Back at the ocean-hugged resort holidayers can make the most of the award-winning gardens,

which burst with spices, peppers, bananas and mint (the pickings of which can be mixed with cocoa ganache to make your very own box of chocolates), and a stay in one of its charming thatched-roofed villas. Sea-lovers are sure to fall for the Ocean Front Villas for their setting a stone’s throw from the lapping shore, plus added extras like scrumptious seafood barbecues on the beach, prepared by a professional chef. Outstanding. maia.com.sc November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 23

Banyan Tree seychelles Mahé Island

Sun, sea, cotton-white sand and pea-green fauna await on the sparkling south-western coast of Mahé. Here, tucked away in a private slice of paradise, jet setters will find the charming Creole-style villas of Banyan Tree Seychelles. Once checked in, guests can surrender themselves to the most luxurious forms of island life imaginable. For supreme levels of relaxation the resort’s standout Banyan Tree Spa Seychelles is the place to flock to for exotic treatments set against the 24 November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

beautiful backdrop of granite mountains.

Sun-worshippers, meanwhile, will love lounging by the resort’s spectacular infinity pool, fresh fruit mocktail in hand, drinking-in views of the Indian Ocean. Travellers who book one of the resort’s numerous stylish pool villas will also be privy to their very own private lap pool – the Hillside Villas are a stunning option for those who like a room with a view: each one is perched upon a hilltop, submerged in the tropical

rainforest. While the villas chic colonialinspired environs are hard to leave, the resort’s collection of first-rate restaurants are well worth meandering to when hunger beckons. Chez Lamar is the spot to wrap lips around classic Creole dishes, while Au Jardin d’Epices transports diners to Africa with its eclectic fare. Alternatively, private dining options are abundant, such as tasty grills eaten on the beach beneath a star-lit sky. banyantree.com

kwt promotion

desroches island resort Desroches Island Escapism, luxury and the shifting colours of the Indian Ocean: Desroches Island is a haven of tranquillity for individuals, couples and families all seeking a postcardperfect paradise. It is both life simplified to the elements of sea, land and sky and elevated to the luxury accommodations, activities and the amenities expected of a destination Forbes Magazine has called one of the ‘Top 10 Remote Hotels in the World.’

Each elegant residence here has been

constructed with privacy in mind – so you’ll feel like you’ve landed on a deserted isle.

Take your pick from garden-fringed suites, spacious retreats and what are arguably the most exclusive dwellings in the whole of the Seychelles: the Dibwa Retreats and Residence. The Dibwa Retreats house three bedrooms, a Miele kitchen, separate dining area, entertainment room, and an infinity pool in a beautifully kept garden. The Dibwa Residence, meanwhile, is perfect for large

families. It has five bedrooms (four of which face the sparkling sea) but can accommodate 10 people in total, while its two master bedrooms each have a private plunge pool and open-air en-suite bathrooms. And if it’s al fresco adventure you seek, you’ll be itching to explore more than 14 classified scuba dive sites, try paddle boarding, or head over to Alphonse Island, where who’ll be treated to one of the world’s most exceptional fly fishing experiences. desroches-island.com

November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 25

Picture this

sarek NatioNal Park Sweden

Picture Lapland and your mind’s eye may well be filled with images of snow, glaciers, huskies, reindeer and other forms of festive cheer. In reality, it’s not that far from the truth... At Sarek National Park glaciers and alpine wildlife are a thing of reality, though the hikers who visit in winter will have to face fierce snow storms and bitterly chillsome winds – conditions that you may suppose prompted this blubbery bunch of long-tusked walruses to pack themselves atop this patch of ice like wet sardines. But for these cows and calves it’s actually a well-practised art: the marine mammals are known to spend much of their time atop drifting ice – placing them in a prime position to gobble up passing molluscs.

Image: Corbis / Arabian Eye

Picture this

Northwest territories Canada

The northern lights, or aurora borealis, have long captured the imaginations of those lucky enough to spy them. The eerie spectacle has been attributed to aliens, fairies and deities, but it’s actually the work of nature: as solar storms rage in the skies above the northern hemisphere, the particles released collide with the earth’s atmosphere. The energy is released as light, blazing across the skies in a green and red glow. Head to Canada for the clearest views – nature’s most outlandish light show tops the bill almost every night in the skies over the Northwest Territories. It’s a lonely spot, but you’ll have a frontrow seat – save for the odd curious moose, that is.

Image: Corbis / Arabian Eye

Picture this

Aomori Prefecture Japan

When summer fades, the colours of Japan’s northernmost prefecture don’t diminish with it. The gorges of Aomori’s Oirase River are transformed into a fiery-hued expanse, as the thousands of maple trees which fringe its banks succumb to the changing seasons. The earthy greens and vibrant emeralds that have withstood the summer turn as soon as the weather changes, rising to a colourful crescendo in November. Aomori is an industrial area, its economy supported by farming and forestry, but for those glorious few months it becomes one of Japan’s most sought-after destinations. Tourists amble along its shaded walkways, under the vibrant canopy – before the leaves succumb yet again to the harsh winter snows. wImage: Corbis / Arabian Eye

www.VisitGoldCoast.com

Forgotten City | MexiCo

Forgotten City Mick Webb explores the state on the Yucatán Peninsula’s uncrowded western coast

The ancient Maya believed that each time you pass through this doorway you would become a year younger”, said Alfredo. Despite having to bend almost double, I tried it three times; it’s easy to suspend Western rationalism here in the magical surroundings of Edzna, one of the cities mysteriously abandoned by the Maya around 1,000 years ago.

The centrepiece is the five-storey pyramid, a palace-cum-temple with an array of 40 doors and a unique curved wall down which

a waterfall once cascaded. There’s a very special kind of beauty in these dramatic, semirestored grey stone monuments set in broad grassy clearings in the jungle.

In Edzna’s little museum is a collection of stelae, the standing stones which recorded and commemorated key Mayan events in hieroglyphs, and sculpted figures with elongated heads and cross-eyes. Such features were considered the peak of physical beauty by the Maya, who took cruel measures to develop them in chosen children.

November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 33

Openning page: The temples of Chichen Itza.

This page, clockwise from top right: A Mayan performer in traditional dress; Monte Alban in Oaxaca; An Aztec calendar; A performance of ‘Dance of the Owl’, a Mayan dance; The ruins of the Palenque temple.

34 November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

Campeche state is the hidden, exotic face of Mayan Mexico. Its 400-kilometre coastline stretches down the west side of the Yucatán Peninsula, away from the beaches of the Riviera Maya and the bright lights, night clubs and super-hotels of Cancun, which have long been within easy reach of travellers.

However, most visitors are still unaware of the tranquil city of Campeche, waiting across the peninsula, and the deserted, historic sites and accessible jungle that lie in the surrounding state.

It took five hours for Alfredo and me to drive – mostly by motorway – from Cancun to his home state. Alfredo is one of the 90,000 people (more than 10 per cent of the population) who still speak the Mayan language in Campeche. He’s keen to introduce visitors to the culture of today’s rural Maya.

A short drive from Edzna is the village of Ich-Ek, where we met a group of women who have set up a co-operative to save a native, stingless bee, whose habitat is being destroyed by logging and forest burning; they sell honey and beeswax candles. The group’s spokesperson is a small, feisty woman in her early sixties, called Leydi.

Among the sacks, tools and chickens crammed into the yard outside her home, was a neat pile of logs. On closer inspection, I saw they were pierced with small holes,

through which a stream of tiny bees came and went. Leydi told me that the bees were treated like members of the community: “When there’s a death in the village, we put a sign on the hives,” she said, “so they can understand our sadness.”

Campeche’s capital is the port of San Francisco de Campeche, a neat, relaxed city of 250,000 people – so relaxed, in fact, that the adjective campechano is defined in the Mexican dictionary as ‘laid-back and friendly’.

Even the sea, beyond the three kilometres of palm-lined esplanade, seemed unnaturally flat and calm. The Old Town has gained Unesco recognition for its colonial Spanish architecture – a mixture of small two-storey houses and much larger mansions, built between the 16th and 19th centuries, now restored and painted in pleasing shades of blue, ochre and ox-blood red.

The pretty central square is the arcaded Zocalo, where the cathedral, a gaunt and austere affair, displays the ravages of the salt-laden sea breeze on its blackened limestone exterior. On the heights above Campeche, the fort of San Miguel, complete with cannons, moat and drawbridge, provides sweeping views over the bay.

There’s also a fascinating little Mayan museum, whose treasures include tiny, detailed figurines, found at the burial site on the nearby Jaina Island.

Forgotten City | MexiCo

‘Calakmul brings out everyone’s inner Indiana Jones... Here lie the remnants of a city which was once home to more than 50,000 people’

November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 35

Images: Corbis / Arabian Eye; Shutterstock Text: Mick Webb / The Independent / The Interview People

In comparison with the well-known Yucatá fleshpots of Cancun and the Riviera Maya, or the developed Mayan sites of Chichen Itza and Uxmal, Campeche has hidden its light under a bushel. A project to change that has just been inaugurated at Aak-Bal, a 30-minute drive south of Campeche city. Set beside one of the white sandy beaches that interrupt the coastal mangroves, are apartment blocks and a beach restaurant, due to be joined over the next couple of years by hotels, a marina and the essential Jack Nicklaus-designed golf course.

For the time being though, Campeche’s main attractions require a bit of searching out. This is certainly the case with Calakmul. A four-hour drive from Campeche, almost on the

36 November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

border with Guatemala, this Mayan site brings out everyone’s inner Indiana Jones.

Here lie the remnants of a city once home to more than 50,000 people. Only a small proportion of its buildings have been restored, leaving the stage free for the flora and fauna.

Alfredo pointed out a tree nicknamed Palo de Gringo, for its papery red bark, which flakes off in the sun’s heat; I nervously reapplied my sunscreen. Somewhere in the ocean of greenness were jaguars and harpy eagles. This was the authentic Campeche, ripe for further exploration, and, if you visit Edzna, also promising the secret of eternal youth. In my case, I’m sorry to report, that last element has yet to be delivered.

This page, clockwise from top left: Campeche Public State Library; Mexican musicians; Statue of Ignacio Allende in Plaza Civica, San Miguel de Allende; The Colonial buildings of Campeche.

38 November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

Surf and Turf | Sweden

Surf & Turf

Sweden’s cutting-edge cuisine provides gourmet delights, plus the chance to reconnect with the land...

I

t’s just before 7pm on a beautiful evening in the rural province of Jamtland in the heart of Sweden.

I take the short stroll from my minimally decorated yet cosy bedroom in the remote resort of Faviken, across the gravelled grounds to the converted 19th-century wooden grain store, pausing to admire the snow-capped Are mountains in the distance.

I take a seat in the ground-floor bar, where a wolfskin coat hangs on a wall and traditional Jamtlandic folk music plays on a loop. Then the pre-dinner canapés arrive and I find myself biting into miniature crunchy cups filled with lightly salted wild trout roe.

A group of ultra-keen foodies, we’d left Stockholm in the early morning to take what must be one of Europe’s most picturesque train journeys. Five and half hours heading north past lakes, forests of pine and silver birch and deep green fields studded with brilliant yellow dandelions to Jarpen in Jamtland county followed by an hour’s taxi ride to the 24,000-acre estate of Faviken.

Most visitors come to the area for its skiing, but for us it was a culinary pilgrimage, partly inspired by an internet buzz surrounding the restaurant and its inclusion in a world’s 100 best restaurants list. We hoped to be rewarded with something spectacular. We were not disappointed.

Visceral might be an overused term, but it sums up the food of Faviken’s head chef Magnus Nilsson perfectly. Highlights of the 11-course, four-hour meal eaten in the upstairs dining room at the restaurant’s sole table include langoustines with sprouting barley, and vegetables preserved in whey and pine bark cake with acidic herbs and frozen buttermilk. It’s a hugely memorable meal full of theatre, including Nilsson and his sous chef hacksawing a bone in half in the dining room to harvest the marrow which he serves with diced raw cow heart. Such is the impact of Nilsson’s food that he may soon be on the receiving end of the sort of adulation and notoriety currently being meted out to Danish chef René Redzepi of Noma, with

This page, clockwise from bottom right: Tuukka ervasti-tott hotel; Jakob fridholm-breakfast tray; Soapstone restaurant; Soapstone restaurant dish; Tuukka ervasti-tott hotel restaurant dish.

November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 39

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Surf and Turf | Sweden

‘Travelling to Sweden’s south coast, past fields of rape and rolling green hills, we get to commune not only with nature but with history too’ whom he shares an elemental approach.

Look beyond the blood and bones and you find that new Swedish cooking, like Redzepi’s, also embraces foraged herbs, flowers and vegetables, bringing the glorious landscape right on to the plate. Nilsson is one of a number of young Swedish chefs that personify allemansratten (the freedom granted under the Swedish constitution of access to nature; roughly the equivalent of the UK’s right to roam) and before dinner he takes us for a short ramble over the surrounding fields.

Peak foraging time is late spring and early summer; in winter the ground is covered in a metre-and-a-half of snow and the lakes freeze over. We find wood sorrel and morel mushrooms, but Nilsson has already been out and collected fiddlehead ferns and ground elder for the evening’s meal. Nilsson shows us the beds where about 100 varieties of vegetables are grown, including the strong flavoured Jamtlandian grey pea which Nilsson says is the only variety that ripens this far north.

But you don’t have to venture into the Swedish wilderness to find nature on your plate. At the Algarnas Tradgard (“Moose Garden”) Supper Club on the docks of Malmo we congregate around tables fashioned from

concrete pillars and old wooden pallets and plunge our forks into the meadow of bright yellow rape flowers that cover a simple salad of potatoes. The menu, created by two of the city’s top chefs Ola Rudin and Sebastian Persson, includes roasted onions strewn with chive flowers, bite-sized meringues with wood sorrel and culminates in a procession of jars containing rhubarb stalks, huge leaves intact, that we dip in sugar and chew on as a dessert. (As of October, the supper club is a permanent restaurant occupying the same location called Saltimporten Canteen.)

The city – a scenic 15-minute train ride from Copenhagen over the Oresund Bridge – has plenty of other natural and organic-focused culinary attractions. The provocatively named Bastard Restaurant, recently voted the best restaurant in the county of Skane, deals in the sort of nose-to-tail dining popularised by St John restaurant in London, so expect marrow bones, charcuterie plates and ox heart, tongue and tail. The team also manages the stylish Smak café-restaurant at the Konsthall contemporary art gallery where there are plenty of vegetarian options available to eat in the secluded courtyard.

You need look no further than Malmo for some of Sweden’s hot food and drink November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 41

‘Most visitors come to the area for its skiing, but for us it was a culinary pilgrimage...’ trends. Scandinavians drink the most coffee per head in the world, so it’s no surprise that small roasteries are popping up all over the country. At the hip Solde Kaffebar, former baristas Johan Carlstrom and Jonas Westesson serve espresso from beans they source, blend and roast themselves in their facility on the outskirts of the city. We’re served “natural” unfiltered beverages made from hand-picked organic grapes at Algarnas Tradgard and Bastard, but they’re also available at Belle Epoque bar and Restaurang Mrs Brown.

One of the driving forces behind Sweden’s new naturalistic approach is professional forager Roland Rittmann, who conducts foraging expeditions by prior arrangement.

We visit him at his farmhouse in Anderslov, about 35km south-east of Malmo. Over coffee and traditional home-made cinnamon buns in the garden, Rittmann explains how, after retiring from teaching in the early 2000s, he returned to his childhood fascination with the land and began collecting and selling wild mushrooms. Since 42 November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

creating his Jordnara Natur & Kultur company in 2004, Rittmann now supplies most of the top chefs in Sweden with wild leaves, berries and blooms. Nosing around his storeroom is a fascinating experience and we get to taste sea arrow grass, bird grass, white dead nettle and goutweed.

The founding of his company coincided with the publication of the New Nordic Cuisine manifesto by Danish food entrepreneur Claus Meyer and 12 leading chefs of the region who agreed to “express the purity, freshness, simplicity and ethics we wish to associate with our region” and “base our cooking on ingredients and produce whose characteristics are particularly excellent in our climates, landscapes and waters”.

In 2005, the manifesto was adopted by the Nordic Council of Ministers to develop the aims “into a lifestyle which will be better for nature, for people and for Nordic society as a whole” and which funds Nordgen, an organisation dedicated to the safeguarding and sustainable use of plants, farm animals

Previous page: Kastellholmen is an islet in the main inlet to Stockholm.

This page: Cajsa Warg, a foodstore that focuses on produce from small, ecological and local producers.

Opposite page, clockwise from bottom right: Traditional baking of Swedish crisp bread; Café on one of Stockholm’s boardwalks; Gubbhyllan restaurant.

Images: Supplied Text: Andy Lynes / The Independent / The Interview People

Surf and Turf | Sweden

and forests. We’re treated to a tour around the head office and plant bank in Alnarp, just north of Malmo. Head of the seed laboratory, Simon Jeppson, shows us the collection of more than 29,000 different live samples of Nordic cultural plants from about 325 different species. They’re stored, dried and frozen in vacuum sealed bags in what look like dozens of domestic fridges. Along with the Nordgen’s extensive gardens where they cultivate rare species, it’s a valuable resource for chefs.

Travelling on to Sweden’s south coast, past fields of rape and rolling green hills, we get to commune not only with nature but with history too. On the hills above the village of Kaseberga, overlooking the Baltic Sea, we eat pickled herring and drink akvavit in the centre of the 59 boulders that form Ales Stenar, a “stone ship” ancient burial site.

The food comes courtesy of chef Anders Vendel whose eponymous restaurant is in the harbour below. We eat cod served

with seaweed and a surprisingly delicious porridge made from rye bread, and pears poached in seawater served with caramel ice cream. Afterwards, Vendel shows us around his on-site bakery, where he makes superb sourdough, rye bread and surdegs knacke, a type of crispbread.

The small harbour is also home to Ahl’s Rokeri where the glass-fronted display counter heaves with an incredible array of mahogany-coloured smoked fish, including mackerel flavoured with paprika and herring smoked with Thai flavours.

We even find nature on the outskirts of Stockholm. As we arrive at Mistral, a tiny restaurant in the suburb of Enskededalen, we spot a deer in the distance. Perhaps it was running away from chef Fredrik Andersson, worried it would end up on his menu. But the bearded and pony-tailed chef seems far too gentle a soul to harm a living thing.

The meal isn’t meat-free. The succession of beautifully arranged plates includes poached

veal heart served with nettles crisped in salty butter and pickled and dried onions, and veal neck served with whole baked garlic. But the real emphasis of Andersson’s “modern ecological gastronomy” is on vegetables, so that means cucumber marinated in hemp oil with rosehip, rhubarb, lingonberries and duck fat vinaigrette and mangel (beet) leaf with radish, salted dried perch roe and wild flowers and herbs.

It’s a charming experience but not entirely devoid of pretence and preciousness, something the New Nordic Food movement could be accused of. But give me the considered and environmentally aware approach over the macho posturing of much of modern haute cuisine any day.

Although you’ll see the influence of the New Nordic Cuisine across the globe, you’ll have to travel to Sweden to find it in its most natural state. It’s no flash in the pan, and looks certain to continue to evolve. What better reason to return?

November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 43

All’s well on the Great Barrier Reef Experts predict its extinction but the planet’s largest living organism is holding up well, finds Cameron Wilson

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All’s well on the greAt bArrier reef | AustrAliA

November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 45

Opening page: Boat on the Great Barrier Reef between Cairns and Townsville.

This page: Diver on the Great Barrier Reef.

Opposite page, clockwise from top: Spotted Eagle-rays swimming over coral reef; Diver beneath a Humphead Wrasse; Anenome and clownfish.

T

he Great Barrier Reef exists in a kind of public relations purgatory, as almost every conference on global warming, every estimate of rising sea levels and every warning about coral bleaching includes the pronouncement: “the Great Barrier Reef could be extinct within our lifetime!” The planet’s largest living organism has become a 1,300-mile underwater canary-in-the-coal mine, predictions of its demise shorthand for environmental Armageddon.

In spite of this, I embarked on my first visit to the reef in eight years optimistic that the fish, corals and other marine life had not heard the news and were swimming, feeding and procreating much as always. It’s an odd fact that most of the two million people who travel to see the reef annually go in winter (June-August in Australia), but the reef is actually at its best just before the summer monsoon when calmer seas bring exceptional underwater visibility.

Similarly, because Cairns is well known as the gateway city to the reef, it’s assumed to be the place to stay. But unless you fancy backpacker hostels, Port Douglas, an hour up the road, may be a better option.

Accommodation ranges from modest to lavish and several top-notch reef trips leave from here, too. One of these is Poseidon, and I booked myself on for a day’s diving to check the state of things on Agincourt Reef.

There were 38 other passengers on the trip and 10 of us paired off to dive at a site known as Stonehenge, after a cluster of coral plinths that poke out of the waves. Some of the coral bomboras (offshore wave breaks known as ‘bommies’) we drifted over were largely 46 November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

barren, while others bristled with soft and hard corals and sea fans in an array of greens, blues, reds, pinks and yellows. This mix of the bare and the colourful was much the same when I last dived Agincourt Reef nearly a decade ago.

Tropical reefs in Australia and elsewhere can often be disappointingly bereft of giant clams, but at Stonehenge they were everywhere - some more than 5ft across, with fleshy lips in royal shades of purple and green or else creamy browns flecked with yellow.

Myriad tiny fish in electric blue, green and yellow darted among gardens of staghorn coral, and I spotted a colony of anemones with 20 or so inhabitant clownfish, the first time I’d seen these endearing little ‘Nemos’ in such numbers.

Lunch was standard fare for the better reef tours: chilled prawns, cold meats and salads followed by tea and coffee with muffins and brownies. Satisfied with both the diving and the food, I settled in for the journey back to Port Douglas, chatting with my fellow divers about their experiences of visiting the reef.

While everyone had seen corals blooming

All’s well on the greAt bArrier reef | AustrAliA

‘Some of the coral we drifted over were largely barren, while others bristled with soft and hard corals and sea fans in an array of greens, blues, reds, pinks...’

November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 47

‘The planet’s largest living organism has become a 1,300-mile underwater canaryin-the-coal mine’

48 November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

All’s well on the greAt bArrier reef | AustrAliA

November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 49

‘After lunch I suited up and stepped off the boat’s dive platform, sinking alongside the mooring line on to Hastings Reef’

50 November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

All’s well on the greAt bArrier reef | AustrAliA

Previous page: Coral Reefs in the Great Barrier Reef.

Images: Corbis / Arabian Eye; Shutterstock Text: Cameron Wilson / The Sunday Telegraph / The Interview People

Opposite page, clockwise from top: Port Douglas; Divers descend into the sea; Snorkellers exploring the Reef.

with health and others less so, the biggest surprise for most had been the time taken to reach the outer reef. Most tour boats will travel three hours round-trip in order to spend four hours moored by the coral. This can make a live-aboard trip an appealing option, as you get more time snorkelling or diving relative to time spent in transit. But it does mean committing to a set number of days at sea - which can be a pain if the weather turns or you’re not much enjoying the boat. A more flexible alternative is Reef Encounter, which can accommodate guests for one or several days, as its sister vessel Reef Express ferries passengers to and from Cairns daily. My two-day “Top Deck” package with Reef Encounter included my own dive-guide and valet - a peppy English girl named Lucy. The moment I stepped on board it was apparent Reef Encounter pulls off that trick some boats do of being roomier inside than they appear from the outside. My cabin had a comfortable double bed and a compact bathroom cubicle (there was also a plate of fresh fruit and mocktail). Lucy outlined the boat’s amenities and dining schedule and then switched roles from valet to dive guide, ensuring I had a properly fitted wetsuit and scuba rig. After lunch, Lucy and I suited up and stepped off the boat’s dive platform, sinking alongside the mooring line on to Hastings Reef. Reef Encounter shuttles between different sites on Hastings

and Saxon reefs, so multi-day divers and snorkellers get lots of variety.

As at Agincourt Reef, giant clams were in abundance and while some bommies looked past their best, others simply teemed with life. We encountered dozens of parrot fish and a pair of hump-head Maori wrasse, each of them over three feet long. Lucy spotted a loggerhead turtle on the surface, and we watched it dive past us to the bottom to fossick for food. The planet’s largest living organism has become a 1,300-mile underwater canary-in-the-coal mine. For my final water session off Reef Encounter, I abandoned the scuba gear and instead spent an hour snorkelling about the reef shallows.

Anemones and clown-fish, more giant clams, a turtle and a cruising black-tip reef shark were among the sightings, along with forests of staghorn coral that glowed green, orange and blue.

On the run back to Cairns aboard Reef Express I sat topside with the skipper, who gave me the fisherman’s view on the relative merits of coral trout, barramundi and Spanish mackerel as well as the grim outlook for ocean fish stocks.

In the end we agreed we don’t know what impact global warming will have on the Great Barrier Reef, but probably no one else does either. It is to be hoped that in years to come, we will be able to say that reports of its death have been greatly exaggerated.

November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 51

52 November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

Flights oF Fancy | spain

Flights

of

Fancy

Northern Spain’s historic towns, epic views and hairpin bends demand to be enjoyed in style – just ask Sankha Guha

I

call it my Mercedes MLC (Mid Life Crisis). If you squint, the second-hand convertible has the sleek lines of a compact silver Batmobile. It was bought on the promise of rolling away the years, but on the roads of my home in London it has had the opposite effect. Every hump, bump and pothole judders up through the hard suspension, reminding me of creaking joints and sclerotic tissue. We need open roads, big views and heart-stopping hairpin bends. So we are going to northern Spain on a man-and-machine honeymoon.

The region’s balmy temperature is an invitation to have the retractable top of the car down before we have even cleared customs. On the autovia, with the wind in my hair, I am starting to enjoy my crisis.

The obvious thing to be said about my first stopover, Santillana del Mar, is that there is no ‘mar’. The sea is a few kilometres away and visitors get a weary look of disapproval if they ask the way to the beach. Despite the absence of buckets and spades, Santillana is popular; it is simply too cute not to attract the coach parties.

The medieval old town is essentially a tale of two plazas – one civic, the other churchy – and a couple of lanes, both of which are all but swamped by hotels, souvenir emporia, restaurants and bars. The Parador Gil Blas, where I am staying, occupies a prime position between the two main drags. Like many paradors it is a historic building – in this instance a grand old family mansion – and has the requisites of manorial living, including suits of armour, portraits of dusty ancestors and antique furniture.

It is not, however, Santillana’s history but its prehistory that put it on the map. The cave paintings of Altamira, less than 3km away, were discovered by a 12-year-old girl in 1879. The dozens of murals of bison, horses and deer were not only the first to come to light, but some argue that they are also the finest extant examples of Paleolithic art. Some of the daubs are reckoned to be more than 25,000 years old.

Over the years people came in such numbers that their breath and the resulting humidity began to damage the paintings – and the cave is now off limits to the public. There is nevertheless a very engaging museum at the site, with a replica cave that it is claimed “recreates the textures, contours and colour variations of the original cave down to the last millimetre”. The replica is revelatory – you can see how the ancient painters used the rocky undulations of the cave ceiling to render their animals in bas relief. Impressive though it is, the ‘Neocave’ can never be the real thing. Tantalisingly, the original cave is just 300m away.

Looking for authenticity, I scour the hillside for the entrance of the bona fide Altamira. I walk past it twice before a security guard points me to a clump of trees around a hollow in the meadow to my right.

A blue tarpaulin weighted with stones is flapping on the ground just above a small barred iron door hinged from a rough concrete wall set into some rocks. It looks improvised, unfinished.

Determined to give the car a workout on the way to my next stop, I scorn the autovia route that my dull-

November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 53

Opening page: Santillana del Mar, Cantabria. This page, clockwise from bottom left: Santillana del Mar village; Hairpin turns aplenty on Spanish roads; Valldemosa’s main street; Almond trees in blossom; Cave paintings in Altamira; Sos Del Rey Catolico.

witted sat-nav has selected. I head south along the Valle de Toranzo and then cut east across the Cordillera Cantabrica. The route along the Valle de Pas may not be as grand as the Picos de Europa further west, but the valleys are green and vivid.

The sun is up, the hood is down and we are motoring.

The car charges along the hillsides like an eager dog finally unleashed at the park. We attack the hairpins up to the pass at Las Nieves as if chasing rabbits. Wild horses and waterfalls pass in a thrilling blur of motion.

Picó Blanco (1,529m) is off to the left as the plateau opens up; the horizons become larger and the engine note settles to a low growl.

When I get to Argomaniz in the Spanish Basque country, the sunset panorama has an ominous shadow in the east. From the terrace bar I watch hypnotised as a gathering army musters in the sky over the giant plain, flashing blades of lightning. It is clear the assault cannot be long in coming. The restaurant staff seem unconcerned. I retreat indoors as the wind rises, to avoid being clobbered by the furniture. The staff come running when the storm has reached its full destructive force but it is too late. The rain is whipping in. The wind is lifting the sunshades with their weighted bases into the air and tossing them around like beach balls. One of the shades comes down so hard the heavy granite base shatters.

The drama has passed in the morning. I take the low road east to Sos del Rey Católico in Aragon. The medieval hilltop town lies between Pamplona and Zaragoza and takes its name from Fernando II, the king (rey) who was born here. From a distance it looks untouched by the passing centuries; the gigantic wind turbines that bristle along the spine of the Peña Montañesa range behind the town are the only telltale signs of our times.

Sos is a delight; higgledy-cobbledy streets and beetling alleyways that wind, twist and double back on each other like an intricate Celtic knot. The whole multistorey edifice seems to grow organically out of the hill.

At the very top is the keep tower – all that remains of a 10th-century fortress.

Paradoxically, in this historic town, the parador is a modern building, but one designed to blend in with its 54 November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

Flights oF Fancy | spain

‘Almond, olive and cypress trees decorate the hills, their greenery boldly interrupted by gold fields of swirling corn’ neighbours. Every room or terrace has commanding views over the surrounding countryside or the tumbling terracotta roofs of the town.

Manager Emilio Marquez’s enthusiasm is so infectious that he talks me into attending a ‘Los Beatles’ themed evening he has initiated. I ask if there is a local Beatles connection, but no, Emilio cheerfully informs me there is none. A local tribute band performs on a rooftop terrace – recalling the Fab Four’s last gig on the roof of their offices in Savile Row. There the similarities end. Layers of strangeness accumulate when keener members of the audience sing along to I am the Walrus through accents you could slice chorizo with. The opaque lyric ‘Yellow matter custard, dripping from a dead dog’s eye’ echoes joyfully along the ancient walls and bounces on to the wide open plains of northern Spain. Señor Lennon would surely approve.

Dinner in the paradors tends towards the hearty and traditional – the cold almond soup here is a palpable hit. La Cocina del Principal restaurant in town is another success. It is accessed by steps down from the street into a cellar, but a door leads to a terrace with a glorious view. The owners make it clear they think I am a mad November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 55

‘Sos is a delight: higgledy-cobbledy streets and beetling alleyways that wind, twist and double back on each other like an intricate Celtic knot’ dog when I insist on having my lunch out in the midday sun. They try to save me from my folly but relent eventually and serve an excellent chuleta de buey (ox T-bone) al fresco. The massive hunk of meat is served almost raw, its dull red hue and yellowing fat signifying a decent period of ageing. Swifts and house martins dart about. Almond, olive and cypress trees decorate the hills, their greenery boldly interrupted by gold fields of swirling corn that follow the contours of the land.

On the road again I point the car due north at the great wall of the Pyrenees. The approach is gradual

56 November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

up the Valle de Roncal. The valley narrows to a canyon just north of Sigüés. A thin ribbon of blue delineates the sky and against the light I make out the silhouettes of giant wings. Griffon vultures nest on the steep cliffs and during the day they patrol the valley searching for dead things.

Shortly after the viewpoint at Portillo de Lazar there is a fork in the road; the sign pointing right indicates that France is just 11km away over the high pass at Puerto de Larrau. On impulse I swing right. The clear lines of sight on the mountain road give ample warning of oncoming

Flights oF Fancy | spain

Images: Corbis / Arabian Eye Text: Sankha Guha / The Independent / The Interview People

This page: Basque Country, Alava Province.

traffic – and there is very little anyway. I put my foot down and the car comes to life, devouring the tarmac with an angry roar. Into the hairpins, braking late and powering out of the corners, I can feel the low-profile tyres gripping the road confidently.

The road becomes increasingly precipitous, and as I head up to the 1,500m pass I can only see clouds up ahead. I am forced to a crawl when I drive into the mist and the visibility drops alarmingly. Suddenly I feel very small and vulnerable out in the open on the dark mountain. But within minutes the gloom begins to rise and the mist starts to dance with light.

When it lifts, a new world of wonders is revealed. I am above the clouds. Torrents of vapour are drifting over the ridges and cascading between spurs into the valleys far below. I am suspended above France and Spain.

No longer driving, but flying in my silver machine.

November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 57

The Ice

Queen

Anna Jenkinson finds cold comfort in China’s Ice City 58 November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

The ice queen | china

November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 59

60 November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

The ice queen | china

O

n the face of it, winter is not the ideal time to visit the northern Chinese city of Harbin, capital of Heilongjiang Province. A biting Siberian wind batters the region, and temperatures regularly dip as low as -30°C. Nevertheless, each year thousands of visitors descend upon the ‘Ice City of China’, as Harbin is known. The reason? Its annual Ice and Snow Festival.

The festival is extraordinary, focusing on ice sculptures that are amazing feats of engineering and craftsmanship – and it’s a spectacle that can be enjoyed on a short break from Beijing. The overnight train takes about 10 hours, but there are also regular domestic flights that take you from the capital to Harbin in less than two hours.

I arrived by train, emerging out of the central railway station into the freezing cold just as dawn was breaking.

I was immediately plunged into the general noise and chaos of a city on the move: men wrapped up in thick coats walked by selling newspapers, others pushed carts with large metal vats balanced on top, weaving in and out of the heavy traffic.

It felt incredibly cold, even wearing winter boots, two pairs of thick socks, Arctic mittens and my mother’s big fur hat. Just as the long winters and icy temperatures influence what people wear, it also has an impact on cuisine, with dried, salted and pickled vegetables being more available than fresh vegetables. As for coping with

iced-up windows on buses and cars, drivers appeared to make do with looking out of scarily small areas of icefree glass, or produced blow torches to attempt some major de-icing.

In the centre of the large square in front of the station were massive, glistening ice sculptures of towers and temples, showing off the art of ice carving for which the city is renowned. And that, if I may, was just the tip of the iceberg.

The annual festival takes over the whole city.

Labourers haul in blocks of ice from the Songhua River, which runs through Harbin; engineers figure out the calculations for the colossal ice replicas of famous buildings; and then sculptors set to work chiselling and carving. Ice sculptures of cellists and other musicians lined the road to one of the city’s main concert halls, while frozen cherubs strumming harps brightened up the central reservation of a major highway.

The highlight of the festival is Ice and Snow World, a park covering an area the size of 80 football pitches, and which is filled with ice and snow sculptures. I walked up the ice steps and through the ice columns and towers that formed the entrance. On my left was a massive replica of the Colosseum; one my right stood a pair of huge Egyptian sphinxes. Further ahead were ice reproductions of European castles and pagodas. Last year, a Chinese newspaper reported that the park’s Dreaming Castle was

‘The Ice and Snow festival is extraordinary, focusing on ice sculptures that are amazing feats of engineering and craftsmanship’

November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 61

62 November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

The ice queen | china

Opening page: Harbinice sculptures. Previous page: Colourful lighting illuminates the sculptures.

This page, clockwise from bottom left: Chinese icons depicted in ice; Sculptors arrange the ice blocks; Visitors explore the sculptures; Even the grounds surrounding the festival are colourful; Fireworks mark the opening of the festival.

‘The 2,000 or so sculptures in the park are lit up in pinks, greens, oranges, blues and yellows, often changing from one to another in a spectacle of gaudy extravagance’

November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 63

Images: Corbis / Arabian Eye; Shutterstock Text: Anna Jenkinson / The Independent / The Interview People

This page: Musical performances take place throughout the festival on the ice-crafted stage.

the largest ice sculpture in the world, standing at 50m high. It took 2,000 workers 15 days to build.

Almost all of the 2,000 or so sculptures in the park are lit up in pinks, greens, oranges, blues and yellows, often changing from one to another in a spectacle of gaudy extravagance. As you wander around the complex, or in my case gently jog around in a vain effort to keep warm, you almost forget that everything has been constructed from ice.

The ice sculptures are now a tourist attraction for Harbin. However, their origins lie in a practical way of life for the people in the region. To prevent their sources of light being blown out by the winter wind, those living in the far north of China used to hollow out ice blocks and make protective lanterns from them. The sculptures are still called ice lanterns by the locals.

With average temperatures remaining below zero for about half the year, it’s little surprise that ice is part of the local culture. One young woman I met, Di Zhao, explained

64 November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

that making ice sculptures was a collective activity encouraged by the local government when she was at primary school in the 1990s.

“We would put water into a pot or other container, and then put the container outside, as not many families owned fridges at that time,” Zhao recalled. “The following day, the water would have turned to ice and you could put anything inside to make the ice colourful and beautiful.

Then you’d take the ice from the container and carve it.”

Since the first ice lantern festival in 1963 in Zhaolin Park, the celebrations have developed. The festival is now spread across several sites in this city of 10 million inhabitants. Zhaolin Park now hosts a Disney-themed ice and snow festival, while Ice and Snow World focuses on the great architecture of China and other countries around the world.

As Zhao put it: “We may not have the polar lights or sunshine, but we have the ice sculptures as compensation.

They provide us with a world of dreams.”

ConCierge | opener

ConCIerge

sT peTersBurgh | reyKjavIK | Brussels |queensland

the 30-second concierge

IrIna BalKanova, grand hoTel europe, russIa

Entrenched in history, this grand old dame has survived World Wars and emerged as a grandiose hotel – its head concierge reveals her highlights, inside and out...

This hotel has a rich history... In 1917, at the height of World War I and the Bolshevik Revolution, it was used as an orphanage and, with the end of the war and beginning of the Soviet period, the building returned to its traditional role as a hotel before the hotel became a much-needed hospital during the 900-day siege of Leningrad from 1941-1944.

Nowadays it’s a real landmark in St Petersburg... it’s a walk away from the city’s most beautiful sites, including the Winter Palace Square, Hermitage Museum and Moussorgsky Opera and Ballet Theatre.

Celebrated figures have graced its suites... like Italian tenor Luciano Pavarotti who stayed in the No.105 Suite, one of our 10 historical suites,

during his 2004 tour of Russia. Its interior evokes the world’s finest opera houses while its bold, red and gold colour scheme reflects his dynamic persona.

There’s much to do on a winter break... our ‘White Days’ package includes tickets to the ballet or opera, while in the evenings we can arrange for guests to take a romantic sleigh ride through the city.

Do not miss... dinner at The Tsar restaurant, one of the best from the Ginza group of restaurants in Russia, it’s a short stroll away from the hotel. Its Duck with Apples and Stewed Cabbage is so in demand it needs to be ordered two days in advance! grandhoteleurope.com November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 65

visit

ReyKjaviK

Iceland’s capital has enchanted travellers since the first settlers claimed it as their own – Hazel Plush falls under its spell too

W

hen sailor Ingolfur Arnarson stumbled upon a rocky peninsula on the south-west corner of Iceland, he named it Reykjavík – or ‘Smoky Bay’ – and the island’s capital was born. That was in 872, but today the city still feels like a rugged outpost battered by the rigours of the Northern Hemisphere. Flanked by an unforgiving sea and the bleak slopes of Mount Esja, the city has a mysterious, ethereal quality that has long inspired travellers – Arnarson among them – to make it their home. Reykjavíkurs are proud of their Viking heritage: a stroll through the city’s many museums reveals ancient legends aplenty, and heritage pieces that have been lovingly preserved over the centuries. But this is a city that looks to the future: a thriving cultural scene has put the capital on the global cultural map, and Icelandic designers are gradually finding their way onto the world’s biggest catwalks. But for all that ambition, the locals treasure leisure time: head to the geothermal pools to witness a real melting pot of ages and backgrounds, or take to those mist-cloaked hills for unrivalled hiking and biking routes. You’ll soon see why Arnarson could never tear himself away from Iceland’s shores.

66 November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

Reykjavik | iceland

Reykjavik’s best… shopping Kraum (+354 517 7797) is where you’ll find everything that you never knew you needed: typical goodies include driftwood furniture, sea-faring memorabilia and fishskin clothes. Perfect for unusual souvenirs...

Images: Corbis / Arabian Eye; Shutterstock

MUst-Dos The National Museum of iceland (1) (thjodminjasafn. is) was founded 150 years ago, and its collection of Icelandic cultural heritage is unrivalled throughout the world. You’ll find over 2,000 pieces dating from the Settlement Age, including traditional costumes, ancient artworks and bronze icons. víkin Maritime Museum (2) (maritimemuseum.is) showcases a different side of life on the island: the seafaring industries that have long formed the backbone of the economy. The exhibitions feature photography, paintings and driftwood sculptures, and a line-up of live performances throughout the year. Tjörnin Lake (3) is an excellent introduction to Iceland’s great outdoors: the glassy waters are home to over 40 species of bird, and are fringed by sculptures by local artists. During winter, the lake is transformed into a vast ice rink, but when the sun is out the pathways are perfect for leisurely perambulations. Laugardalslaug Geothermal Pool (4), the largest hot pool complexes in Iceland, is just a stone’s throw from the city centre. Bathing is one of the Reykjavíkurs’ favourite pastimes (you’ll overhear everything from hot gossip to business deals here); the temperatures hover around 29°C year-round,

Nostrum (+354 534 5286) is a popular fashion boutique that only sells pieces by Icelandic designers. Its range of hand-crafted knitwear and accessories are staples for the long Reykjavik winters.

12 Tónar (+354 511 5656), part coffee house, part record shop, offers a great introduction to Iceland’s love of music. You’ll find all the best local musos represented here – as well as lively performances every Friday night.

so the water is bath-like even when there’s a chill in the air. elding Whale Watching (5) (whalewatching.is) offers the chance to get up-close with the gentle giants that lurk off Iceland’s shores. The waters are brimming with 20 species of whale, and the Elding tours have recorded sightings of them all – as well as white-beaked dolphins, porpoises and a hardy population of sea birds. A marine biologist accompanies each trip, and a sustainability policy ensures that the impact on the creatures is minimal. Reykjavík Golf Club (6) (grgolf.is) is the oldest club in Iceland. The courses are suitable for beginner and experienced golfers alike,

Seltjarnarnes

but it might prove difficult to keep your eye on the ball: the greens boast spectacular views of the city and Mount Esja.

best vistas of all), but be sure to venture indoors too – VOX restaurant serves up modern Nordic cuisine to great effect.

WheRe to stay

WheRe to eat

Hotel Borg (7) (hotelborg. is) places you right in the city centre, with all of the mustdo destinations right on your doorstep. Its period décor and elegant restaurant are charming, and when you fancy heading out into the wilderness, the concierge can organise fishing, horse riding and hiking excursions galore.

Hilton Reykjavik Nordica (8) (hiltonreykjavik.com) boasts spectacular views of the city and lakes (check into a suite for the

Fish Market (9) (+354 578 8877) is a seafood lover’s paradise.

You’ll find the likes of lobster, giant crabs and langoustine, as well as a few surprises: take minke whale sashimi and smoked puffin, for example.

The Grill Restaurant (10) (+354 525 9960) has been dishing up gourmet fare for over 50 years, and specialises in locally-sourced meat and fish delicacies. Try one of its three tasting menus for a decadent dinner, or pop in for a light lunch – booking is essential.

2 5 9 7 10 3 1

4

Opposite page, clockwise from top: Downtown Reykjavik; Solfar Suncraft Viking boat sculpture; Videy Island, off the coast of Reykjavik; Geothermal pools. This page: Sailing boats in Reykjavik harbour.

Teigar

8

Reykjavik Nauthólsvik

6

November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 67

visit

Brussels

Quirky, cultural, and home to one of Europe’s finest winter wonderlands… What’s not to love about this charismatic capital?

A

s the snow settles on the cobbles of the Grand Place, it’s hard to imagine a winter destination more charming than Brussels. Europe is famed for its love affair with the festive season – and nowhere celebrates with quite as much gusto as the continent’s capital. Every December, the quaint winter markets take over Brussels’s main square, a melee of traditional stalls

68 November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

toting everything from handmade wooden toys to gingerbread decorations, framed by the town hall’s magnificent Gothic facade.

It’s the stuff of fairytales, but venture beyond the hordes and you’ll find another winter wonderland: a thriving city that oozes culture, history and a huge appetite for fun.

Make your way to the quirky BOZAR to feast your senses on theatre, dance, and music

from all over the world, or explore Brussels’s endless fascination for history and art in the many city-centre galleries. The Atomium, a dazzling structure that has to be seen to be believed, houses more treats for curious minds, and those with the travel bug will love the dinky Mini-Europe. This is a city with real joie de vivre – and you’ll soon find that it’s infectious…

Brussels | Belgium

Must-dOs

Carbonnade à la Flamande This Flemish beef stew is the perfect winter warmer: on chilly nights, make a beeline for Les Brassins (02 512 69 99), which serves up lashings of steaming home-made fare.

Moules frites

8

5

7 Parce de

Place de Alberine Albertinaplein

11

Bruxelles Warandepark

3

4

Brussels

nie

ha

Opposite page, clockwise from bottom left: Flowers at the Grand Place; A chocolatier in Le Chocolatier Mano; Rue du Beurre. This page: The Triumphal Arch in Cinquantennaire Parc.

1

tèp lS

Sink your teeth into a crispy, fluffy Belgian waffle and you’ll understand why this is a revered dessert: a simple sprinkle of sugar is adornment enough at Maison Dandoy (biscuiteriedandoy.be)

2

ne

Waffles

6

n Tu

Mussels with twice-fried chips is more of an institution than a simple dinner-time treat. Slurp up the city’s finest at the charming brasserie Chez Leon (02 511 14 15)

The Grand Place (1), at the heart of the city, is an ideal base for any city tripper. Arrive early and fuel up with breakfast waffles at a street-side café, then set about exploring the chocolate shops and trendy boutiques that line the maze-like streets. Night owls will love the square after dark, when the myriad restaurants and lounges spill out on to the cobbles. Brussels Town Hall (2) (brussels.be) towers over the Grand Place, a magnificent Gothic building which houses the civic council. Inside, you’ll find a fine collection of Belgian tapestries and paintings – guided tours of the galleries and chambers run on weekdays. Belvue museum (3) (belvue. be) tells the story of Belgium since it was founded in 1830; its exhibits, displayed in nine galleries, document life under the reign of six kings. The building itself is situated next to the Royal Palace, and is surrounded by landscaped lawns – perfect for a picnic on sunny afternoons. The Magritte Museum (4) (musee-magritte-museum.be) showcases the life of René Magritte, one of Belgium’s most famous painters. The collection of Magritte’s works is the world’s largest, and spans from his first daubings to his sculptural bronzes completed towards the end of his life. Mini-europe (5) (minieurope.com) will capture the kids’ imaginations after all that gallery-hopping. Stroll beside the Berlin Wall, see Mount Vesuvius erupt and hear the bells of London’s Westminster Abbey – all are recreated in miniature 1:25 form, handcrafted by a team of model-makers.

Its interactive exhibits are a fascinating way for little learners to find out more about the EU, too. The Atomium (6) (atomium.be) has befuddled visitors since its construction in 1958: a series of nine interconnected spheres topping 100 metres high, it represents an elementary iron crystal enlarged 165 billion times. Inside, you’ll find a science museum and a panoramic restaurant which boasts views reaching as far as Antwerp. BOZAr (7) (bozar.be), also known as the Centre for Fine Arts, features seven arty venues that feature music, exhibitions, literature and theatre from Belgium and across the world. It’s the home of the National Orchestra of Belgium, too – this season, catch Tchaikovsky and Brahms recitals, as well as music from Lebanese oud player Marcel Khalifé and Egyptian singer Amal Maher.

10

9

Where tO staY royal Windsor Hotel Grand Place (8) (royalwindsorbrussels.com) offers regalinspired digs, and the dining options are just as sumptuous: even if you’re not booked into one of the elegant city-view rooms, Chutney’s hearty menu is one of the finest in town.

Odette en Ville (9) (chez-odette.com), a private Art Deco residence, is a friendly hotel with real savoir faire. When you need to rest your legs, a cosy library and plush lounge await – as well as the divine Serendip Spa.

Where tO eat les salades de Gaspard (10) (02 537 37 77) offers spectacular Belgian signature dishes, with a few international surprises too – try the fois gras salad and duck carpaccio. Booking is essential – the small dining room is intimate, but fills up quickly.

Comme Chez soi (11) (02 512 29 21) is a decadent spot for a leisurely lunch. Tuck into the gourmet Belgian fare that has earned this eatery its Michelin Stars – the ‘kitchen table’ experience features stove-side views of your meals being prepared.

Images: Corbis / Arabian Eye; Shutterstock

Brussels’s Best… signature dishes

November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 69

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delight in istanbul

3 days, 2 nights From $374 Dreaming of greenery and cooler climes? Then how about two nights and three days spent not too far afield in idyllic Salalah? Make for the Omani sanctuary and you’ll be instantly immersed in picturesque surrounds. While you’re there make sure to stop off at Haffa (the old city) where you can trawl authentic souks and haggle for hidden treasures – they make great gifts.

And if you want to team your trip to the Sultanate with splendid creature comforts, opt for a four-star stay at Haffa House (from $375 on twinsharing basis, plus breakfast and return economy flights with Oman Air) or stay instead at the three-star Tourist Village: either way you’ll be in a prime spot to soak up the atmo-

6 days, 5 nights From $490 Those seeking a city trip with a difference would do well to look to beautiful Sri Lanka – this capital sojourn encompasses tours of Kandy, Colombo and Nuwara Eliya. While Colombo is the epitomy of hustle and bustle, Kandy brings a chance to swap drama for gentile strolls around its stunning botanical gardens, where the country’s most exotic flowers can be seen in full bloom.

Come nightfall, you can also take in a cultural show for a real taste of the city. Animal-lovers meanwhile will be in awe of the Pinnawella Elephant orphanage (entrance fees included) where you can get up close to the gentle grey giants and their swaying trunks. With accommodation and

4 days, 3 nights From $1,218 Five-star style awaits jet setters to the Turkish capital – but you’ll need to be quick, the offer ends on 31 October, 2012. After flying in with Etihad Airways (return economy flights included), you can check into the stunning Jumeirah Pera Palace Hotel and make the most of all its luxe trimmings. Stays here (three nights on a twin-sharing basis at $1,218) also place you in a prime location – overlooking the Golden Horn and nestled in Pera. Formerly dubbed ‘Little Europe’, you can explore all manner of historical and cultural delights with ease – it’s just a 5km stroll to the atmospheric Old City and moments from the idyllic harbour. One way to drink in this multi-faceted city in style. And if

November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 71

SuiTe dreamS o’reilly’S, auSTralia

There are few more luxurious ways to experience the Australian wilds up-close than a stay in an O’Reilly’s Mountain Villa. Perched high in Queensland’s Lamington National Park, the two-and threebedroom abodes peek out over a 20,200-hectare forest canopy.

Inside, expect chic interiors that belie the rugged location: think classic wood furnishings, a state-of-the-art entertainment system, and a vast balcony with sumptuous spa bath. From your treetop, spot 72 November 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

mountain brushtail possums and sugar gliders darting through the branches, and spy king parrots wheeling overhead. Watch the sun setting while tucking into a hearty spread of Australian fare; there’s a fully-equipped barbecue on every terrace, and the homely Dining Room restaurant serves up hearty local cuisine. At day’s end, fold back the balcony doors, sink into your king-sized bed, and snooze to the sounds of the forest... oreillys.com.au