Kanoo World Traveller_October'10

THE MIDDLE EAST’S BIGGEST TRAVEL MAGAZINE

OCTOBER 2010

HOW TO DO...

Paris Brussels Tokyo Kenya

Produced in International Media Production Zone

Family Favourites

The ten hotels your kids will love: no travel tantrums guaranteed TOTAL GUIDE

Viva España

All you need to know to enjoy stunning Spain

MICHELIN GUIDE

Where to eat award-winning food for as little as two dollars

KUALA LUMPUR

Why Malaysia’s capital is more than just a stopover city

WIN! THE ULTIMATE DESERT BREAK FOR TWO WITH A WEEKEND STAY AT DUBAI’S JUMEIRAH BAB AL SHAMS

T H ERE’S M ORE TO E XPERI E N CE W H EN YOU HAV E 2 DAYS FRE E. Wherever you travel this summer, experience more with InterContinental. For every seven consecutive nights you stay at a participating hotel in the Middle East or Africa, two of the nights will be complimentary. Spend the extra time exploring your destination with our local knowledge to guide you, and create memories that last a lifetime.

Do you live an InterContinental life?

For more details or to make a reservation, please call us on UAE 800 4642 | Saudi Arabia 800 8 971 465 or visit intercontinental.com/7for5 Offer valid from 4th May – 15th October. Terms & conditions apply. See website for details.

Bahrain 800 00 880 | Egypt 0800 44 333 22 | Jordan 0800 22 666 | Kuwait 2473 2100 Ext.6233 | Lebanon (01) 426 801 (ask for 866 866 7556) Oman 800 77 999 | Qatar 0800 971 234 | Saudi Arabia 800 8 971 465 | South Africa 0800 999 136 | UAE 800 4642

KANOO WORLD TRAVELLER OCTOBER 2010

CONTENTS TRAVEL BITES

FEATURES

07 AGENDA

66 CITY GUIDE: TOKYO

25 ESSENTIAL SELECTION

Everything you need to know about travel this month

Inside the world’s most fascinating city

Get in your child’s good books by arranging a family

16 ASK THE EXPERT

68 CITY GUIDE: BRUSSELS

getaway at one of these superb hotels

Unearthed: cruises for kids and luxury hideaways

Take a trip to the land of chocolate

33 KUALA LUMPUR

19 DRIVE TIME

70 DETAILS

Ele Cooper goes in search of traditional Malaysia

Wind your way up Austria’s highest peak

Where to go to book your next holiday

39 TOTAL GUIDE: SPAIN

20 PICTURE THIS

71 COMPETITION

Pristine beaches, great drives and scenery to die for:

Inspirational sights in Canada and Turkey

Win a weekend stay at Jumeirah Bab al Shams

say hello to sunny Spain

65 THIRTY-SECOND CONCIERGE

72 SUITE DREAMS

60 EAT LIKE A PRINCE

Your expert guide to Paris’ must-dos

A glorious room high in the treetops

Michelin star meals that won’t break the bank

29

37

! "!! ! #

#

" ! ! " !

On the cover: Jumeirah Beach Hotel, Dubai

58

61

67

Managing Director: Victoria Hazell-Thatcher

Features Editor: Laura Binder

Designer: Matthew McBriar

Publishing Director: John Thatcher

laura@hotmediapublishing.com

Production manager: Haneef Abdul

Advertisement Director: Chris Capstick

+971 4 364 2877

Sales Manager: Cat Steele

chris@hotmediapublishing.com

Art Editor: Jenni Dennis

cat@hotmediapublishing.com

+971 4 369 0917

jenni@hotmediapublishing.com

+971 4 446 1558

Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in Kanoo World Traveller. ‘Total guide: Spain’ and ‘Eat like a Prince’ reprinted with the permission of Sunday Times Travel magazine.

49

Jan-June 2010 22,620 BPA Consumer Audit Produced by: HOT Media Publishing FZ LLC

October 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 5

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AGENDA Be informed, be inspired, be there

NEW OPENING

DEVI RATN, INDIA If it’s boutique chic you long for this month, we’ve found just the place, nestled in Jaipur, Rajasthan. This luxurious new haunt opens its doors to decor infused with golden yellows, spicy reds and burnt oranges; evoking a real taste of India. Settle in to one of its sixty suites and you’ll spend your nights amdist a whirl of texture and colour, complete with all the mod cons a luxury-loving globetrotter could wish for. We say, book one of its three private villas to snag your own Jacuzzi and pool; the most serene spot to soak up views of the surrounding Aravali mountains... www.deviresorts.com

October 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 7

Birthday dishes Al Bustan Palace InterContinental Muscat hits the quarter century mark this month, 25 years that have seen the hotel develop into a much-loved property and a symbol of Oman. In celebration of the occasion, the hotel will roll out the red carpet for a slew of top-notch chefs, many of whom have helped the hotel become the go-to place for great food in Muscat. They’ll head up a culinary festival which starts on October 6 and comprises a number of events, our pick of which is ‘Cooking with Shannon Bennett’ on October 7, when you’ll accompany Bennett to the local fish market and select something to prepare. To find out more, call ++968 24 764 000 or email boxoffice@albustanpalace.com

GLOBAL GOURMET Chef Marco Torasso, Executive Chef at Grosvenor House Dubai, on where to dine in his home country of Italy.

One of my favourite restaurants, and one that I regularly visit when I am back in Italy, has to be Reggia di Venaria (1*Michelin star).

Situated near my hometown in beautiful Turin, the chef is a good friend of mine who prides himself on his delicious smoked salmon served alongside warm and crispy hash browns. An adventurous soul, he knows just how to tempt me with his latest creations and mouth-watering meals.

A second favorite of mine would have to be La Posta Vecchia (1*Michelin star), with an aroma 8

Kanoo World Traveller October 2010

that embraces every one of your senses; La Posta Vecchia grows its own fruits, vegetables and herbs in its beautiful gardens. Right next to Rome and also run by a friend of mine, no one should be able to leave Italy without trying its renowned chilled tomato soup served with a slow cooked, succulent red mullet.

My trips to Italy typically end in the south, where I’m always make sure to visit a quaint restaurant close to Bari named Tuccino.

There, I know I can enjoy seafood prepared with the same precision, delicacy and skill that my grandmother used to cook with.

Beautiful is the view of an old, 88 year-old woman producing kilo upon kilo of black ink pasta while watching Italian soap operas on the television. Be prepared to dine like royalty at this restaurant.

New Edition

The first in what its owners hope will be one of 100 Edition hotels opens in Hawaii this month.

Edition is the brainchild of two big-hitting industry experts, Bill Marriott, CEO of the Marriott hotel group, and Ian Schrager, somewhat of a silent partner in the infamous Studio 54. Their goal? To give their guests a ‘dream experience’ in ‘dream destinations’. Which is ok with us.

AGENDA | NEWS

SUITE TEMPTATIONS

The King for a night?

Keen to play the rock n’ roll star? Check into one of these icon-themed suites…

Jimi Hendrix Suite

Autumn leaves Four places that are perfect to flee to in October...

Elvis’ Hollywood Suite

LOCATION The Cumberland Hotel, London

1. TANZANIA

2. BERLIN

The tail end of October sees the migration of wilderbeast in East Africa, when over one million of these powerfully-built animals head south in search of pastures new. Book a week’s safari to take in one of nature’s finest sights first hand.

The German capital is never dull, but it doesn’t burn any brighter than during the city’s Festival of Lights, which runs from October 13-24.

Multiple projections and illuminations see Berlin’s famous landmarks bathed in light, while fireworks torch the sky.

3. NEW YORK

4. JORDAN

Summer in New York can be uncomfortably hot and infuriatingly busy, so crowd-free, mild October is arguably the best time to visit one of the world’s great cities.

Not only are there events galore, but autumn-hued Central Park is a frankly beautiful sight.

A dip in the Dead Sea and a visit to Petra are perrenial must-dos for any traveller and, with the hot summer behind us, now is the best time to take that trip to Jordan.

Temperatures in the north hit around the 20c mark - just perfect for camping out in Wadi Rum.

Heartbreak Hotel, Memphis

LOWDOWN To mark the 40th year since Jimi Hendrix’s death, London’s The Cumberland Hotel –

Taking its name from Elvis’ hit record, Heartbreak Hotel stands a stone’s throw from

listed as the singer’s last official residence

the singer’s Graceland Mansion and has an

– has just opened a suite dedicated to the

array of rooms themed on key stages in the

career of the guitar hero.

King’s glittering career.

DÉCOR Psychedelic stylised wall patterns liberally splattered with music magazine covers.

An art deco style that bids to capture the golden era of Hollywood.

HIGHLIGHT The three-metre high mural of Hendrix created by leading graphic designer.

The cinema-like seats lined up in front of a large-screen television.

DETAILS $644 per night www.guoman.com

From $549 per night www.elvis.com

Hot on the heels (sorry) of Selfridges opening the world’s largest women’s shoe department (pictured) comes the news that you can now get a VAT cash refund on your Louboutins, or any other purchase, simply by strutting over to Kanoo Foreign Exchange in Knightsbridge and presenting your receipt to its staff.

October 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 9

With Eid Al Adha just around the corner, Kanoo Travel has introduced a number of great-priced holiday packages that can be booked from this month. Pick of the bunch is a seven day break that takes in Sri Lanka and its beautiful neighbour, Maldives, which lies just a short ight away – perfect if you’re travelling with children. For $750 per person you can enjoy sightseeing tours and all meals in each destination, plus six nights’ accommodation. For a full list of Kanoo Travel’s Eid Al Adha offers, ick to page 32.

ONE-MINUTE MASTERCLASS: GREEK Can I really smash my plate?

Mporo alithia na spaso to piato mou? Which way to the Acropolis? Pos pame stin Akropoli? How much does it cost? Poso kostizi? What’s in Mousakka? Ti ehei mesa o mousakas? www.skylineuniversity.com

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Kanoo World Traveller October 2010

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Images: Shutterstock, IHG, Guoman Hotels, Photolibrary, Grosvenor House Dubai, Selfridges.

All about Eid

a boutique of choices in one great city

Located just minutes away from Mall of the Emirates and the business districts of New Dubai, Pearl Coast Premier Apartments offer unrivalled luxury at affordable prices.

Unwind in your own fully serviced apartment with a whole host of dining and leisure activities on your doorstep. For business or pleasure and with the unmistakable hospitality of Dusit International, the choice is yours.

Your own private space in the heart of Dubai.

One bedroom apartment AED250 Two bedroom apartment AED450 Valid until 30 November 2010. Rates are subject to 10% service charge and 10% municipality tax. Rates quoted are per apartment per night, subject to availability. Terms and Conditions apply.

Pearl Coast premier Hotel Apartments managed by Dubai international P.O. Box 124964, Al Barsha, Dubai, United Arab Emirates Tel: +971 4 4289999 Fax: +971 4 4289900 E-mail: pearlcoast@dusit.com, Website: pearlcoasthotelapartments.dusit.com

AGENDA | FERRARI WORLD

FERRARI WORLD

BY NUMBERS

5

The number of seconds it takes the world’s fastest rollercoaster to reach its max speed of 240km/h. Hold on to your seats...

62

The height in metres that you’ll be propelled in the air aboard the ‘G-Force’ ride

Race you there...

You’ll need to have your head buried in the sand to ignore the hotly-anticipated opening of Ferrari World Abu Dhabi on October 27. But what can we expect from this giant of a theme park? Laura Binder gets the inside track from park manager Andy Keeling.

With Yas Marina Circuit already cutting a dash on Yas Island, its latest addition is set to polish it off as an all-thrills destination, a place where bigger really is better. Cue the unveiling of Ferrari World Abu Dhabi – which just happens to be the largest indoor theme park to grace the planet. The new adventureland isn’t named after one of the globe’s most famous car brands for nothing, either: it’s set beneath a roof designed in the style of a Ferrari GT’s curved shell; which couldn’t serve as a more fitting taste of what lies beneath. The park’s plethora of rides and attractions pays tribute to

12

Kanoo World Traveller October 2010

all-things Ferrari. But what, you may ask, is the point if you’re not a Ferrari fanatic? “Guests of all ages can have an unforgettable experience here,” insists Andy. “First and foremost it’s a family theme park, so inside it offers facilities that will ensure an unforgettable leisure experience.”

And because no self-respecting global theme park would be without a stand-out attraction, this one introduces the world’s fastest rollercoaster; Formula Rossa. “It was important to offer guests who are chasing that adrenaline rush a new and unique product,” says Andy, “one that stretches the boundaries of theme park technology. We expect theme park fans from all over the world to come to sample a speed

that’s never been felt on a ride elsewhere before.”

But is there an equally outstanding experience to be had for those who don’t feel such an overt need for speed? “Absolutely”, says Keeling.

It seems this racy rebel of a theme park has an altogether softer side too – and a magical one at that.

“Families can immerse themselves in the virtual world of Nello on Speed of Magic – where a virtual character will lead them on a fantastic 4D adventure, through deep green jungles to icy caverns; from the bottom of the ocean to the mouth of a fiery volcano.” That’s quite a ride...

Raring to go? Snap up your tickets from October 27. Visit the website www.ferrariworldabudhabi.com

22

The number of months it took to complete the Ferrari-themed marvel

20

And counting...

The amount of attractions thrillseekers can get their kicks from

7

The time of evening on October 27 when you can finally step inside the theme park

AGENDA | CALENDAR

OCTOBER

From food and films to frivolous fun, there’s plenty to pencil into your diary this month

26-30

DOHA TRIBECA FILM FESTIVAL Doha, Qatar On the back of its highlyacclaimed debut last year, DTFF returns with another superb selection of Arab and international films, making it just the place for movie buffs to tune in for five days of viewing pleasure. This year it’s set to screen around 40 films in all, backed by photo exhibitions of film icons, workshops and a familyfriendly day to boot. www.dohatribecafilm.com

1-3

BELLINGEN GLOBAL CARNIVAL Bellingen, Australia Get ready for some offbeat, carnival fun at this annual festival. Set in a lesser-known town on the north coast of New South Wales, it features everything from global musicians to circus acts and quirky craft workshops (anyone for sand mandala?) There’s exotic food aplenty too, plus a camping site for when the day’s done. www.globalcarnival.com

14

1-3

LEBANON H.O.G. TOUR Beirut, Lebanon Born to ride? Bikers can feel the wind in their hair amidst a throng of fellow easy riders on the second of H.O.G.’s motorbike tours. It starts in Beirut, where you can climb on your Harley and thunder through valleys and over mountains for three glorious days, stopping only for barbecues, drinks and to swap tales of the road. What could be better? www. lebanonhogtour.com

Kanoo World Traveller October 2010

1-31

FESTIVAL D’AUTOMNE À PARIS Paris, France For the entire month of October, The City of Lights transforms itself into the city of culture as beautiful and bustling Paris plays hostess to performances of modern opera, theatre, dance and film, as well as myriad literature and poetry readings. A must-see for art lovers of every kind – and tickets won’t break the bank, either. www. festival-automne.com

4-18

LONDON RESTAURANT FESTIVAL London, UK Foodies will be in their element at this culinary celebration, which takes place citywide. Treat your tastebuds to affordable ‘festival menus’ in hundreds of coveted restaurants or book a less pocket-friendly event, such as Dinner on the London Eye, whisked up by famous names like Gordon Ramsay. www.visitlondon.com

8-9

ABU DHABI DRAGON BOAT FESTIVAL Abu Dhabi, UAE Dragon boat racing continues to captivate GCC residents and this festival is expected to draw a super-sized crowd to the beach at ShangriLa Hotel Qaryat Al Beri.

Whether you intend to get behind an oar or watch from sandier sidelines, it’s well worth a look and culminates with a celebratory barbecue on Traders Hotel’s beach. www.shangri-la.com

A MEMORABLE EXPERIENCE AN ASTONISHING RETREAT

The Address

MONTGOMERIE DUBAI

Welcome to one of Dubai’s most celebrated golf havens,

The Address Montgomerie Dubai. This magnificent boutique hotel and golf course offers an idyllic setting for the perfect getaway retreat. Whether you are playing on the championship golf course, staying in one of the hotel’s stylish rooms, dining at the award–winning restaurant; Nineteen, or luxuriating in the spa – you will want for nothing from the moment you arrive.

The Address Montgomerie Dubai creates extraordinary experiences.

T +971 4 390 5600 F +971 4 438 7888 MONTGOMERIE@THEADDRESS.COM WWW.THEADDRESS.COM

AGENDA | TRAVEL Q&A

Ask the expert

The panel JESSICA HUDSON cofounded The Chic Collection’s travel advisory, and is tasked with sampling endless luxury hotels...

TIM WOODS the go-to man for all things green, is an international project leader for the British Trust for Conservation Volunteers.

RACHEL HAMILTON is a full-time writer and the mother of two young children whom she travels frequently with.

16

Q: I want to find a truly peaceful hideaway to visit, outside of the GCC. Where would you recommend?

A: I’ve been lucky enough to escape this summer to

Q: I have three kids and fancy the idea of a cruise. Are there any family-focused holidays of this kind out there?

A: With almost a million kids taking to the seas each

the Seychelles, Sri Lanka and Santorini and I have found hidden gems and peacefulness in each of them.

For a truly tranquil hideaway and a dose of unspoilt nature, the Ceylon Tea Trails in Sri Lanka has to be my favourite. Nestled in the rolling tea hills and overlooking Castleragh Lake, this is one of the most restful places I’ve ever been to and proves a real escape from city life (www.teatrails.com).

Another chic hideaway is the Santorini Grace in Greece. Take a short flight from Athens to the island and you’ll be transported into another world, brimming with glistening turquoise seas and breathtaking sunsets. The tiny island is crammed full of tourists in the summer, so now is an ideal time to go. Santorini Grace is set just outside the quaint hilltop village of Oia, where you’ll find fabulous restaurants and boutiques. But, if you’re looking for peace and quiet, you needn’t leave your private infinity pool (www.santorinigrace.com).

Bliss Boutique Hotel & Spa (www.bliss-hotel.net) on Mahe in the Seychelles is another peaceful option.

It’s run by a stylish French couple, has eight beautifully designed suites, and overlooks a private, powder-white sandy bay and turtle-filled lagoon. Quite literally, bliss.

Jessica Hudson

year, many companies promise family-focused cruises.

The trick is to find one that concentrates on your needs. For example, if your idea of family fun is finding activities to enjoy together, Carnival offer huge play spaces and artsy-craftsy activities; Royal Caribbean is great for sports fans with its full-court basketball, waterparks, ice-skating rinks and ship-building regattas; and Disney put on epic family entertainment.

Alternatively, if you’re after a state-of-the-art kids’ club that will guarantee some adult-only time for you, most cruises offer good, old-fashioned activities, like face-painting. For something more innovative, Disney is hard to beat, with its full-service underwaterthemed nursery for babies and toddlers, plus a choice of enchanting kids’ clubs for three to 17-year-olds.

Youngsters can dress up and perform with Peter Pan and Snow White, while older kids can learn about animation, try cruise navigation, or run interactive science experiments in the Oceaneer Lab. Be sure to check out babysitting policies. Some ‘family-focused’ cruises only provide a children’s centre, whereas others, like Royal Caribbean and Disney allow you to schedule in-cabin babysitting.

Rachel Hamilton

Kanoo World Traveller October 2010

Image: Shutterstock.

In need of an escape route from the city or a holiday to entertain the kids? Our experts map out your best options…

| ROAD TRIP | XXXXXXXXX AGENDA AGENDA

UP, UP AND AWAY

DRIVE TIME: GROSSGLOCKNER, HIGH ALPINE ROAD

REMEMBER TO CATCH YOUR BREATH AS YOU TAKE A WINDING TRIP UP AUSTRIA’S HIGHEST PEAK...

Snow-tipped mountains, alpine meadows and the richest of dense, green forrestry will captivate your senses as you embark upon the beautiful bends, on the ascent to Grossglockner. It’s a must-do trip for anyone who ever marvelled at the mountainous backdrops in The Sound of Music – even if you don’t care to admit it. Don’t be thrown by the signposts though – it’s written as ‘Großglockner’, the ‘ß’ of which hints at the shape of things to come: there are 36 bends in all, coupled with an altitude of 2,504 metres, which will place you on the highest – and most majestic – mountain in Austria.

There’s no doubt it’s a bendy drive so, to fully absorb the awesome scenery, take it slow. As you master its curves you’ll be drawn in to the heart of the Hohe Tauern National Park – think wild, primeval landscapes to lose yourself in – before the road intices you up (and up) to the Grossglockner itself, all 3,798metres of it. It’s a day’s drive (with stops, of course) and is only open between May and October due to snow. We say, go now, pack a flask of hot chocolate, wrap up warm and allow yourself to be awestruck by the landscape’s scale and beauty.

Image: www.grossglockner.at

XXXXX October 2010 KANOO 2010 Kanoo WORLD World TRAVELLER Traveller 19

Picture this

McGREGOR BAY ONTARIO, CANADA

Sometimes a scene of raw natural beauty has the ability to take your breath away: and this sunrise at McGregor Bay in Whitefish Falls has to be one of them. This is real life Rainbow Country, where the only thing you have to share the landscape with is the water’s resident beavers and mink. Its looming island pine trees, combined with soaring orange clouds that look as though they’re alight with flames, create a real stop-and-stare scene. Seek solitude there in summer time, armed only with a fishing kit, and embrace an unspoilt existence that won’t fail to bring out the philosopher in you. After all, with vistas like this, who needs company?

Image: Photolibrary

Picture this

UCHISAR

CAPPADOCIA, TURKEY As eery as it is intriguing, Cappadocia’s cave dwellings form a moon-like landscape that would seem altogether more fitting in a fantasy land far, far away... And yet, you’ll find these stone houses very much in existence in central Antolia, Turkey. The unusual abodes are a product of years of eruptions from the now dormant Erciyesdagi volcano, the surrounding landscape of which was moulded into tall, pointed rocks (wistfully dubbed ‘fairy chimneys’). It’s here that these residential dwellings (and, much later, cave hotels) were carved. Dating back to 2000BC it’s no wonder they appear so alien to modern globe-trotters. Take a tour of Cappadocia to see them for yourself – all the more fantastical when gliding overtop in a hot air balloon.

Image: Photolibrary

| FAMILY ESSENTIAL SELECTION HOTELS | XXXXXXXXXX ESSENTIAL SELECTION

ESSENTIAL SELECTION

THE WORLD’S BEST FAMILY-FRIENDLY

HOTELS

Want to head off for Eid Al-Adha with the kids in tow? Laura Binder rounds up 10 great getaways little ones will love...

October 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 25

| FAMILY ESSENTIAL SELECTION HOTELS | XXXXXXXXXX ESSENTIAL SELECTION

1

ACQUALINA RESORT & SPA ON THE BEACH, MIAMI

Child’s play: Got a water baby in tow? It doesn’t get much better than the hotel’s acquamarine program, a marine-biology project that allows kids to dive into both the educational and recreational aspects of the ocean.

Expect everything from ecoexplorations and scavenger hunts to swimming and relay races.

All together now: If you like the beach, you’ll love this hotel’s oceanfront setting, which comes with not one but three swimming pools by the sea – a real stopand-stare spot to enjoy sun, sea and sand. www.acqualinaresort.com Clockwise from top left: The pool at Aqualina Resort & Spa; The daily parade at Disneyland Paris; Wild Wadi; Playtime at One&Only Le Saint Geran’s Kids Only.

2

ONE&ONLY LE SAINT GERAN, MAURITIUS

Child’s play: Budding sailors and pirates will love the shipwreckthemed Kids Only – a dedicated club chockful of video games, big-screen televisions and an outdoor pool. It also lays on daily activities to entertain young guns from dawn till dusk. Toddlers can totter in the outside sand play area, while older kids play golf, tennis, water sports and even try their mitts at yoga and cooking.

All together now: If you can bear to leave this luxurious resort, a few local attractions are well worth a peek. We say, get back to nature – and a tropical one at that – in the Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanical Garden; a beautiful jungle of 800 exotic palms and plants. www.theoneandonlyresorts.com

3

DISNEYLAND HOTEL, DISNEYLAND PARIS

Child’s play: It’s hard to imagine a better spot to indulge childlike fantasies than Disneyland and this hotel is brimming with magical themes. The pink palace alone is enough to place kids in a whirl of excitement, with its roaming characters and Cinderella-style décor. Take them to Minnie’s playroom for an added fantasy fix.

All together now: Head to Disneyland Park, of course. A playground of five magical lands for kids and adults alike, you can all hop aboard a steam train to the wonderland’s entrance and prepare for a mind-boggling adventure. Don’t miss Space Mountain Mission 2 or the cute Mad Hatter’s Tea Cups. www.disneylandparis.co.uk

4

JUMEIRAH BEACH HOTEL, DUBAI

Child’s play: Little ones will be wide-eyed at the sight of Sinbad Kids’ Club, a sailingthemed zone with supervised play, chill and swim areas inside and out. Mucky pups can have a field day at Inky Squid’s Undersea Academy of Art too, where it’s painting galore.

All together now: Head to nearby Wild Wadi Park (hotel guests get free, unlimited access), or stay put and find yourselves spoilt for sporting choice: why not form ‘mum versus dad’ teams and arrange a tennis or footie match on the beach? Alternatively, head to the deep blue sea and learn a water sport together. The options are endless... www.jumeirah.com

October 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 27

| FAMILY ESSENTIAL SELECTION HOTELS | XXXXXXXXXX ESSENTIAL SELECTION

5

ATLANTIS, THE PALM, DUBAI

Child’s play: It’s impossible for youngsters to tire of the action-packed Kids’ Club: they can head to the depths of the ocean in the Underwater Theatre; scale the heights of the climbing walls in the Play Zone; or unleash their inner artist with origami, pottery and so much more in the crafty Creation Zone. There’s even a brilliant club for teens, off limits to prying parents.

All together now: Water babes of every age will be in their element here. Dolphin Bay provides the rare chance to meet the amazing mammals, while you can feed another of Atlantis’ residents at Shark Lagoon; sting rays. There’s family fun to be had at Aquaventure too (the hotel’s very own water park), so embrace your inner child and shoot down slides – the bigger the better. www.atlantisthepalm.com

October 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 29

ESSENTIAL SELECTION | AMAZING STAYS

6

HOTEL DE RUSSIE, ROME

Child’s play: Mini adventurers will love the romanticised gardens of this Italian haven. A Secret Garden opens its gate to the magically-named Butterfly Oasis – a reserve for pretty-winged creatures, Added treats on arrival, like pint-sized robes and slippers, will make them feel right at home. Plus, pre-sleep teddy bears, milk and biscuits for teeny tots and chocolates and a cartoon guide to Roma for elder kids will keep them quiet, for a while at least...

All together now: When in Rome, you have to venture into the city for a day’s sightseeing: there’s no better place for those who crave culture.

Let restless souls throw coins in the Trevi Fountain, or treat them to gelato as you soak up the sights. www.hotelderussie.it

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Kanoo World Traveller October September 2010 2010

| FAMILY ESSENTIAL SELECTION HOTELS | XXXXXXXXXX ESSENTIAL SELECTION

7

ELSA’S KOPJE, KENYA

Child’s play: Kids will think they’ve stepped into the Jungle Book when they arrive at this African camp. Let them expand their minds with a guided – and educational – walk in the wilderness with a local Masai guide, and see real life rhinos in the nearby reserve.

All together now: An acceptance of all little ones at Elsa’s, from babies and beyond, means you don’t have to wait till they’re older to embark on a once-ina-lifetime safari experience; you can do it as a family. Take plenty of snaps then head home to create an album to remember. www.elsaskopje.com Clockwise from top left: Cornwall’s Fowey Hall; The lively Nickelodeon Hotel; Safari time at Elsa Kopje; The idyllic Cambrian.

8

THE CAMBRIAN, SWITZERLAND

Child’s play: This hotel scoops top points for originality with kids’ cooking and mocktail mixing classes (fingers crossed they’ll want to continue the habit at home). Outdoor types can take to the snow for sledding while those who crave warmth can go to the games rooms. Either way, a weekly kids’ activity day will ensure they’re not bored.

All together now: Skiing, snowboarding and tobogganing all come as standard in this winter wonderland. Plus, styleconscious parents will be pleased to know that its hip restaurant not only serves up winterwarming dishes with a trendy twist but is exceptionally childfriendly, too. www.thecambrianadelboden.com

9

FOWEY HALL, CORNWALL

Child’s play: Children can imitate their elders and tuck into a kiddies high tea at this quintessentially English retreat.

Those over eight-years can bond at The Beach Hut, jampacked with games like pool and table tennis, or head to the Gun Room for films. But, with a trampoline to bounce on outside and a nearby Cornish beach to boot, there’s also plenty of fun to be had outdoors.

All together now: This grand chateau was the inspiration for Toad Hall in the classic children’s tale The Wind in the Willows – so why not pack a picnic, take a stroll in its grounds and read the book as a family? A lovely way to while away a day in the country. www.foweyhallhotel.co.uk

10

NICKELODEON HOTEL, ORLANDO

Child’s play: Completely tailored to the young and the restless, you can send little princesses to the Kids’ Spa to indulge their girlie side; let livewires loose in the hotel’s huge water park or allow teens to hang out in the Code 9 Lounge, full of music and video games – just don’t stay and cramp their style.

All together now: An abundance of eateries for little and large appetites – from the casual Nicktoons café to poolside Lagoon Grill & Bar – means you can dine together daily. Treat them to a Character Breakfast and eat your cereal alongside Dora the Explorer and SpongeBob Squarepants. www.nickhotel.com

October 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 31

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| XXXXXXXXX | MALAYSIA CITY XXXXXX BREAK

Ele Cooper gets more than she bargains for in the city of skyscrapers, ancient tradition and, erm, chicken feet.

There comes a point in every travel writer’s career when they have to question just how far they’re willing to go in the name of the job. I don’t mean this literally – a short-haul-only policy simply wouldn’t cut it in this line of work – but metaphorically. For some, it’s cage-diving with sharks, for others, sleeping outside in a scorpion-infested wilderness, but for me, it came in a bustling family restaurant in Kuala Lumpur.

I was at Shabu One Steamboat, where at the centre of each table was a large pot full of stock, bubbling away atop a stove. The idea was to circulate through the marketplace occupying one half of the venue, and pick out a selection of meat, veg and seafood which would then be thrown into the communal pot and shared among fellow diners once cooked. I had shunned the artificial-looking pink fishballs in favour of huge, ear-like mushrooms, thin strips of lean beef, and some crispy noodles – but like I said, the policy at a shabu restaurant is

October 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 33

to share and share alike. You can imagine my dilemma, then, when my dining companion proffered a scrawny, bony lump at me and said, ‘Well? Aren’t you going to try the chicken’s foot?’

Now I usually embrace the opportunity to try new things, but this was a (chicken’s) step too far. Not only was there the genuinely perplexing question of how on earth I’d eat the thing – where would the meat be; should I eat it all or nibble round the edges? – but the much more terrifying prospect of what that foot had walked through in its short, miserable existence. At the end of this whirlwind thought process, though, I concluded that, if thousands of people eat the things each day, they really can’t be that bad. So, with shaking chopsticks in hand, I took the plunge.

But before I share the highs and lows of that particular dining adventure, perhaps I should explain why and how I had come to be there. It all started when I made the ignorant mistake of brazenly dismissing Kuala Lumpur as a stopover city in front of a Malaysian friend. She was so horrified that, just two months after said faux pas, I wound up in her hometown ready and willing to be proved wrong. Deciding that the first step on my road to KL assimilation would be to install me in a five-star hotel, she booked me into the Ritz-Carlton. Fine by me, especially when my butler pointed out that my initials had been embroidered on my pillow case. I was warming to the city already.

Although delighted with these luxurious dwellings, I quickly told my friend that I didn’t want my experience of the Malaysian capital to be pure high-end glamour – while it certainly has its draws, that is no way to truly see a city.

And thus we embarked on a whistle-stop tour of the real KL, chicken’s feet and all.

Kuala Lumpur is a curious city: it combines the grit of Bangkok – grey cement, yellowish skies dense with humidity, hoards of mopeds revving in front of cars at the endless traffic signals – with the glitz of Dubai: huge, airconditioned malls all packed with designer emporiums, and thousands of label-hungry shoppers with LV logos where their eyes’ pupils would normally be. The metro line stands above the street walkers, its trains whizzing office workers to their day jobs, and huge TV screens showing nonstop advertisements loom where, in most cities, a modest billboard would suffice. Even higher than them are the shiny skyscrapers, a material demonstration of the country’s booming economy and ambition. The most famous are, of course, the magnificent Petronas Twin Towers, linked by a 41-storey-high footbridge.

Back at ground level, driving through the city makes for fabulous people-watching. The population comprises Malay, Indonesian Malay, Chinese Malay, Indian Malay and,

34

Kanoo World Traveller October 2010

XXXXXX | XXXXXXXXX

judging from the double-denim-wearing, hat-and-boots-clad chap who saunters past the car window, cowboy Malay. What gives KL its unique twist are the squat family homes lurking incongruously at ground level: they’re built in the traditional way, that is to say on stilts, and they lend the city a far homelier feel than it would otherwise have. As we grind to a standstill in yet another traffic jam, a scruffylooking child darts out of the front door of one, looks around quickly and then slips under the building. Two minutes later, he’s followed by another boy who I take to be his brother, based on their matching bowl haircuts.

On my first evening, my friend decides that a dose of culture is in order, and we drive to a colonial building standing in the middle of a vast car park. It houses the Saloma Theatre Restaurant. Inside, it’s jam-packed with locals and tourists alike, all seated at round tables and loading up their plates with the enormous Malay buffet goodies.

Once everyone’s had their fill, the lights are dimmed – it’s time for the traditional dance show. Tiny women festively dressed in neonbright colours and jangling bells from their wrists and ankles shimmy onto stage, winding around as if in a trance, before they’re joined by a troop of young men. An hour of jolly entertainment passes by, culminating in a slightly bizarre, mimed performance of the Opening page: The famous Petronas Twin Towers. Left: Batu Cave. Top, clockwise from top left: The 272 steps that lead to Batu Cave; cooked chicken feet; a monkey on the cave climb ; Executive Deluxe Room at The Ritz Carlton, Kuala Lumpur.

October 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 35

country’s much-marketed theme tune, ‘Malaysia Truly Asia’. It is a surreal but nonetheless enjoyable night.

Kuala Lumpur is well known for its shops – most of which are to be found in the Golden Triangle, home to the ritzy malls – but I want something more authentic, so we head to Central Market. The undercover maze of stalls offers countless identikit tourist pieces, but later on we check out Chinatown, which is quite a spectacle: incredibly tightly packed stalls all offering counterfeit goods at insanely low prices, thronged with shoppers and hawkers roasting chestnuts on carts; it’s a riot of colour, noise and smells. Next we walk ďŹ ve minutes to Jalan Alor, a haven for street food which is open until 4am. We make a beeline for a family-run eatery my friend used to visit when she was a child, where the same old man still stands fanning the satay ďŹ res night after night.

The next day, I announce to my friend that she has successfully persuaded me that Kuala Lumpur is worth a visit even if it’s not a scheduled stopover on the way to another destination – but I’m far from done: I want to see a more traditional Malaysia, the one that exists outside the city. Off we drive, densely vegetated mountains looming on the horizon, their tops outlined in the sort of wiggly line a child would draw when depicting the sea. Soon we reach our ďŹ rst stop, the Batu caves. Limestone cliffs tower majestically, streaks of black etched down their faces in strange shapes. An enormous goldplated statue called Murugan stands guard, smiling beatiďŹ cally and looming almost twice as high as the 272 steps we have to climb to reach the mouth of the caves.

On our way up, we become aware that we’re not alone: a gang

36

Kanoo World Traveller October 2010

of monkeys is eyeing our handbags (and the snacks within them) beadily. I turn and see another one scampering around with what looks like a clamp on her sides, then I realise there’s a baby hanging from her stomach, hitching a free ride and peering out inquisitively.

At the top, we turn and pause for a moment, surveying the city skyline which feels so far away. Just inside the entrance to the caves is an Indian Malay clutching a cobra. He grins at me and asks if I want him to wrap the snake around me. This is even less appealing than the chicken’s foot I will later be offered, so I decline as politely as I can and scuttle off inside, bats swooping past my ears. Water drips from the roof of the cavernous space and in the corners, mystical painted ďŹ gurines are illuminated by ickering candlelight. It’s a far cry from the neon hysteria of Kuala Lumpur.

Onwards into the country we plough, and all I can think is how ferociously, stubbornly green the landscape is. Even where roads have carved a path through the rainforest, grass carpets the roadside like a comfort blanket. And despite the fact that we are soon on private

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| XXXXXXXXX | MALAYSIA CITY XXXXXX BREAK

Images: Photolibrary, iStockphoto, Shutterstock, Ritz Carlton Kuala Lumpur, Resort World Genting.

Opposite page: Street food served up in Chinatown. This page, from top left: The colourful and bizarre Genting Highlands; A vibrant night market; Chinese boundfeet shoes.

property, this does not abate. We are heading for Genting Highlands, which my friend has described to me as ‘a huge theme park resort on the top of a mountain’. A somewhat bizarre concept, perhaps, but its founder, Tan Sri (Dr) Lim Goh Tong, did have a lot of respect for the 10,618-acre site and as such only built on four per cent of the land prior to his death in 2007. The resort boasts six hotels, a theme park, concert venue, strawberry and orchid farms, over 80 shops and an 18-hole golf course. We spend a pleasant couple of hours wandering around and marvelling at the inanity humankind entertains itself with, while secretly revelling in it ourselves.

Next, my friend wants me to sample a slice of Malaysian history in the form of the town of Melaka, which dates back to 1403 when it was discovered by an Indian prince. The fact that, between then and independence in 1957, it was occupied by the Portuguese, the Dutch, the British and the Japanese, has contributed to a medley of architectural styles. Everywhere you look in the town are pedal bikes festooned with tropical flowers, pulling carts loaded up with wideeyed tourists, wizened guides at the helm. In the network of shops surrounding Jonker’s Street lies the only place in Malaysia still selling the tiny shoes created for Chinese women with bound feet. They are smaller than baby shoes and I stop for a moment to wonder at the excruciating pain they must have caused their poor wearers. Less historic, I suspect, is the ‘Ancient Levi’s Store’ that stands a few shops down the way.

Onwards we meander, past wrought iron gates protecting the houses of tiny old ladies who peer suspiciously through the grills; then we stop at another odd little store selling poly-wrapped cardboard cut-outs. Apparently, Malaysian people believe that burning paper replicas of material items means their ancestors will have those items in the afterlife. Among the mundane bits – flowers, chocolate – are more luxurious things like massage chairs, Mercedes Benz people carriers and frilly underwear.

The afternoon ends with a boat trip through the canals of the town, which wind between buildings swathed in colourful murals, small wooden dwellings and endless amounts of lizards the length of humans, some sneaking looks above the water’s surface. After disembarking, we stop for a quick bite to eat at a Chinese Malay restaurant and try cendol, a dessert made from shaved ice and coconut milk. It’s also full of small, green, maggoty-looking strips made from green bean flour. But, as I’ve discovered on many occasion when cooking for myself, the least attractive dishes are often the tastiest, and it’s a surprisingly pleasant dish.

Which leads me back to the chicken’s foot. It wasn’t that bad really, at least not once I’d been taught that meat wasn’t the name of the game. No, this was all about skin nibbling – pulling it away from the bone and getting as much flavour as I could from the soft, almost jelly-like tissue. Was it the highlight of my trip to Kuala Lumpur? I’d be lying if I said yes, but it did leave me with one question: where would I draw the line and Just Say No despite my adventure-necessitating job? The next month I was invited on a camping trip in the desert. I closed my eyes, thought of scorpions and had my answer.

October 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 37

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...and has the LARGEST BPA-AUDITED CIRCULATION IN SAUDI ARABIA, reaching 14,460 readers in Riyadh, Jeddah and Damman? ...and that the magazine also distributes 8,160 copies across the UAE, Bahrain and Oman? …reaching corporate clients as well as consumers, with distribution into companies such as BAE, GTS Aramco, Investcorp, Philip Morris, Ford Motors, IBM, Siemens and Sun Microsystems?

To get involved with the magazine, contact Chris Capstick on +971 50 456 9938 / +971 4 369 0917 / chris@hotmediapublishing.com

TOTAL GUIDE | SPAIN

TOTAL GUIDE

SPAIN

It’s not all about football in sunny Spain.

Pristine beaches, marvellous mountains and some of the world’s best hotels and restaurants make it a year-round destination for those with a sense of adventure.

PAGE 40 ON TOP OF THE WORLD Hit the heights in Asturias PAGE 44 MAJOR PLAYAS Four of the best beaches, from rugged shores to city sands PAGE 48 COOL ESPAÑA Get packing – with our pick of Spain’s hottest hotels PAGE 52 ISLAS BONITAS Ibiza, Tenerife, Lanzarote and Mallorca: see the big four like a local PAGE 58 HIT THE ROAD Get behind the wheel for a spin across Spain.

October 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 39

On top of the world Scary slopes and stunning cave paintings place the mountain roads of northern Spain up among Europe’s finest, says Anthony Peregrine, as mountainous northern Spain makes his head spin

‘G

ood grief,’ I said. The words spring readily to the lips of those who combine a desire for mountains with the head for heights of a cloud. You may know the feeling. I do, and did again somewhere inconveniently high above sea level in the Picos de Europa mountains of Asturias.

The surroundings were grandiose. The twomule road from Covadonga had climbed up through forest and mountain meadows, with great crags beyond. There was the promise of lakes round a bend or two. I unclenched my hand from the wheel, got out of the car and could barely walk. The scale and the sheer plunges scrambled senses and limbs.

Mine, anyway. The high-altitude cows seemed immune. So did the only other humans in the magnificently alien landscape. Dutch visitors, it turned out. Dutch! From a country whose highest point is a speed bump. Shame compounded terror and neither would shift.

I love Asturias. I love all the different Spains, from Madrid via Seville to Barcelona and Benidorm, but Asturias on the northern edge is my favourite because it resembles none of them. It has no dust, bluster or straw donkeys. It is more like Wales on steroids.

The crinkle-cut Atlantic coast rises to the Cantabrian mountain range, first very green, then soaring limestone white. There are bears and wolves up there, and villages so vertiginously remote that they’ve not yet heard what happened to the Armada.

It is, in short, a brilliant place. Wimps and vertigo-sufferers just have to choose their roads carefully, that’s all. No initial trouble as I arrived along the coast from Santander and took a tiny right-hander to Andrin. Here

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was an excellent introduction to the Asturian seaside. The Atlantic rumbled before a cove it had carved with great attention to detail. The sun was strong, the light astonishingly clear and yet I could count the folk down on the sands without using my toes.

Over the promontory, Llanes was a fishing port slotted into the ragged rocks, with holiday elements bolted on. It’s said to be Asturias’s busiest resort, which doesn’t mean it’s busy. I had a wonderful time strolling the headland, darting in among the overhanging galleries of Medieval streets, and bobbing into tiny cafés.

The coast continued, battered, serrated and glorious. I left the main road, parked, and walked out to cliffs, creeks and beaches not so much unspoiled as undiscovered. It was warm and inebriating, so where was everybody? ‘Turkey,’ said the only person I met, a Frenchman walking a small dog.

This wasn’t quite true. I found a few people in Ribadesella, a grand little estuary spot where fishermen and holidaymakers had come to a compromise early last century.

While there, I should have visited the Tito Bustillo caves. They’re world-famous for their Palaeolithic wall paintings. But I was so happy ambling the shore and watching folk frolic that I missed the underground opening times. I regretted it afterwards, mind. Instead, I pushed inland, up the gentle Sella valley to Arriondas and Cangas de Onís, the lively little gateway to the Picos de Europa. Cangas has the open-faced, riverside aspect of a place used to chucking people up mountains and otherwise encouraging them to outdoor Right: An uncrowded, unspoilt cove aside the Atlantic Ocean in Asturias.

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‘Llanes was a fishing port slotted into the ragged rocks. It’s said to be Asturias’s busiest resort, which doesn’t mean it’s busy’

October 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 41

‘I ended in Cudillero, a fishing village so stacked up the rockface that it qualified as perpendicular’

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TOTAL GUIDE | SPAIN

Opposite page: Rugged beauty in Desfiladero del Cares.

Top: The small fishing village of Cudillero.

The Brief Where to stay In Collia, near Arriondas, go for the Posada del Valle www.posadadelvalle.com (doubles from $84, room only). It’s a former farmstead hanging from a hillside with outstanding views and British owners who favour simplicity and warmth. Good dining, too. La Corte de Lugas www.lacortedelugas. com (doubles from $125, B&B) is one of the loveliest four-stars in Spain. Remote above Villaviciosa, there’s a manorial aspect, fine local food and a family welcome.

Where to eat Food in Asturias tends to the copious side of hearty: stew; steak with cabrales blue cheese; chunky sopa-de-mariscos fish soup. Try it at the Sidreria Carroceu in Ribadesella (00 34 985 861419) or Posadade-Antrialgo (00 34 985 707314) between Arriondas and Infiesto.

exhaustion. The peaks loomed above, majestic and menacing.

It was, though, an easy enough valley drive to Covadonga, which I approached with respect. You must. It’s Asturias’s most precious spot, where, in the 8th century, legendary Asturian King Pelayo vanquished his enemy. A cave celebrates the victory, inspiring devotion among Asturians. This is not to be taken lightly. Indeed, mere mention of Pelayo will increase your local popularity no end.

It worked for me. In a restaurant nearby I pointed to a portrait and said: ‘Pelayo?’ The guy beamed and brought me a free aperitif.

I had to pay for the bean stew, though.

After lunch, I took the really high road, with consequences we’ve already discussed. But, if you’re not lily-livered, don’t hesitate. In retrospect, I reckon the Enol and Ercina lakes were worth a near-death experience.

Over subsequent days, I trolled about the foothills, avoiding anything that looked too steep, and all gorges, of which there were many. My desire for mountains could, I found

once again, be satisfied from below. I went canoeing from Arriondas and drove to hill villages with horses and beans in the fields, apples in the orchards and raised stone grain storage outside the farmhouses.

Old chaps in clogs couldn’t understand that I didn’t understand Spanish. I was, I decided, the first Englishman to penetrate this far into uncharted Spain. Then I saw the Union Jack outside my hotel in the lost hamlet of Lugas. ‘I always run it up for British guests,’ said owner Daniel Gonzalez.

I wrestled with regional capital Oviedo (home to racing driver Fernando Alonso, whose skills you’ll need to negotiate the traffic), and ended in Cudillero, a fishing village so stacked up the rock-face that it qualified as perpendicular. I got there by driving off a cliff, or at least it felt like that, and taking in the tangle of streets and houses as I plunged to the port at the bottom. I ordered a drink, sat down and looked around from rocks to sea. You need a sense of stillness to appreciate Asturias. And a good set of brakes.

October 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 43

Major playas Unpack your cozzie, slap on the sunscreen and you’re ready to step out onto Spain’s best beaches – from urban to utterly wild LA BARROSA, CADIZ PROVINCE WHO DOES IT SUIT? Active families.

SNAPSHOT: Regularly topping best-beach polls in Spanish newspapers, La Barrosa, just outside Cádiz, is a family-friendly spot with an excellent reputation for safety – not to be sniffed at on a coastline infamous for its fierce winds and giant breakers. In summer, trained lifeguards keep an eye on those splashing in the Evian-clean waters, and are ready to

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jump in at the first sign of anyone misjudging a current. The beach is an eight-kilometre arc of soft sand lined with palms, and has more than enough space for silent novel-reading in the dunes and sandcastle-building in the shallows, as well as thronging stretches of lounges and cafés playing dodgy Euro pop come nightfall. The more developed section of the beach, close to the promenade, can get very busy in summer when Spanish

city-dwellers come in search of cool breezes; and in winter it gets taken over by surfers.

However, as long as you’re prepared to walk for a bit, a patch of virgin sand is always waiting for you.

WHERE TO STAY: Situated right on the beach, the Hotel Playa La Barrosa (www.hipotelshotels-spain.com); couldn’t be better placed for those wanting to claim a prime spot before the crowds arrive.

TOTAL GUIDE | SPAIN

BARCELONETA, BARCELONA WHO DOES IT SUIT? Sunseeking citybreakers.

SNAPSHOT: As you crowd along La Rambla – or into one of Gaudí’s celebrated buildings – you’d be forgiven for forgetting that Barcelona is actually a coastal city with beaches that promise an escape from the urban maelstrom. Fight your way through the sightseers down to the Mediterranean Sea

and you’ll find breezy relief in Barceloneta, just 15 minutes’ walk from the city’s busiest street. Populated by chi-chi Catalans, this cool seaside neighbourhood couldn’t be more relaxed. Lines of palm trees separate bathers from the gentle buzz of oceanfront restaurants and bars, including top seafood dining spot Agua (00 34 93 225 1272). Part sunbathing space, part open-air gallery, the beach has an arty, idiosyncratic vibe that’s

boosted by the prominent placement of sculptures, such as Rebecca Horn’s wonderful ‘wobbly building’ Homentage a la Barceloneta and Frank Gehry’s giant bronze fish Peix d’Or, amid the loungers.

WHERE TO STAY: Book a room at Hotel Pulitzer (www.hotelpulitzer.es); a superstylish hotel that packs in a cool lounge and courtyard at the other end of La Rambla from the seafront.

October 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 45

CALA MONDRAGO, MALLORCA WHO DOES IT SUIT? Easily bored adventurers.

SNAPSHOT: The plan might be to explore the coast, discovering a different strip of seaside each day. But when you set eyes on Cala Mondragó, at the end of a twisting country road, that plan will go out the window.

Protected by steep rocks – and National Park

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status – Mondragó’s twin coves shelve gently into a glittering sea. The first beach, Fonts de n’Alis, is the busier, with sunbeds to rent and two friendly restaurants set among the pines.

Twice a day in high season, a pair of sunburnt oldsters wheel a barrow of fruit onto the sand and sell fresh melon and pineapple. Too much like civilisation? Walk around the headland and you’ll find S’Amarador, untouched save

for a handful of lovely thatched parasols and a rustic drinks hut. You can tackle the clifftop trails on foot, or swim from bay to bay, exploring hidden caves and gazing down through the deep, clear water at schools of silvery fish.

WHERE TO STAY: Base yourself beside Fonts de n’Alis at Hostal Playa Mondragó (www. playamondrago.com).

TOTAL GUIDE | SPAIN

LA CONCHA, SAN SEBASTIAN WHO DOES IT SUIT? Stylish weekenders.

SNAPSHOT: Backdropped by the kind of lush green hills you’d expect to conceal gorillas, the golden curve of La Concha beach has long been a draw for Europe’s well-heeled.

Everyone from Spanish royalty to Brangelina (just two of the Hollywood A-listers who’ve come to town for San Sebastián’s annual film festival) has slapped on the SPF30 while

stretching out on its soft sand overlooking the glassy Bay of Biscay. And as you’d expect, nobody gets away with substandard swimwear – local regulations, it seems, deem that all bikinis must bear at least one designer label. A wonderfully old-fashioned seafront promenade curls around the hubbub below and provides the perfect platform for preeners and posers. Women in saucer-sized sunglasses and men in shirts revealing just

a little too much bronzed chest congregate here at early evening for the Basque city’s take on the passeggiata, before sashaying their way into see-and-be-seen restaurants such as La Perla (00 34 943 458856), for fresh-fish pintxos (tapas) and peach-tinted Atlantic views.

WHERE TO STAY: Astoria7 (www. astoria7hotel.com) is a lovely boutique property close to the beach.

September October 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 47

Cool España

These stylish escapes make the perfect peaceful break.

Check in and chill out…

1. MADE FOR: LAZY FOODIES GRAND HOTEL CENTRAL, BARCELONA In Barcelona, good food is revered just as highly as the all-conquering local football team, and taste and presentation is taken as seriously in dingy tapas bars as it is in the top restaurants. That said, on a short stay, can you really be bothered to pound the city streets for hours to seek out the latest must-visit pintxos parlour? Far better to book yourself into Grand Hotel Central, an elegant ’20s-inspired boutique property in the city’s cultural quarter, home to the acclaimed Avalon Restaurant & Café.

Here, Michelin-starred chef Ramón Freixa (Spain’s Heston Blumenthal) has reinvented trad Catalan cuisine with exciting, flavourpacked dishes such as squid and meatball stew, lamb, rabbit and calçot onions. And, once you’ve completed your culinary journey, you don’t even have to trawl the city’s passeigs for a post-prandial gargle.

Simply head up to the hotel’s rooftop lap pool and drink in that view.

2. MADE FOR: WORKAHOLIC REHABBERS MARICEL, NEAR PALMA Don your sunnies on the plane and wear your swimsuit under your trousers so that you can dive straight into this sun, sea and spa pick-me-up of a hotel, tucked out of sight in a south Mallorcan cove 15 minutes from Palma. Some guests prefer to stay in Maricel’s older Neo-Classical building for its uninterrupted sea views, but design buffs and eco-worriers might want to plump for the pricier new annexe.

What it lacks in perspective, it makes up for in chic stone-walled rooms and flawless green credentials: solar panels; biomass boilers; intelligent lighting; and free use of

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a Segway to gad about the estate. Maricel is also home to Bodyna spa, renowned enough to attract lithe ladies from across the island. In summer, massages take place in its stunning, open-air caves by the sea, replacing the usual spa panpipes with bona fide waves crashing upon rocks. When the day draws to a close, live music lures guests to the infinity pool for sundowners.

There’s no beach here, but a ladder leads straight into the sea – glorious.

3. MADE FOR: EQUINE ADVENTURERS CASA LA SIESTA, VEJER DE LA FRONTERA The wind turbines marching like white soldiers through the campaña offer a clue as to why this wild stretch of Andalucía keeps the Costa-del-riff-raff at bay – the wind can be fierce (to the joy of kitesurfers on the nearby Costa de la Luz). Casa la Siesta is just 10 minutes from the blustery beach, but safely cocooned among the folds of undulating fields and hills, providing a cosy country hideaway. Owners Lee and Amelia built the hacienda-style property from scratch, but it feels as though it’s been here for aeons, thanks to the couple’s expert eye for reclaimed architectural materials and antiques. Set on two levels, overlooking a pool and a courtyard that twinkles with tealights at night, the seven rooms each have their own charm; that said, the large groundfloor suite is best, with a rolltop tub and prime views of the landscape and resident horses. Eddy (a gorgeous grey gelding) and four companions have been rescued from neglect – and they’re happy to be exercised by experienced riders.

Opposite page: The rooftop lap pool at Grand Hotel Central, Barcelona.

TOTAL GUIDE | SPAIN

‘Head up to the hotel’s rooftop lap pool and drink in that view’

October 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 49

‘The hotel overflows with antiques, paintings, mosaics and gardens’ Visit when the feria (horse festival) is in full swing and see Andalucían purebreds kicking up dust as they canter right past the house.

4. MADE FOR: HARDCORE ROMANTICS CASA DE CARMONA, NEAR SEVILLE Tucked away in the web of blossomy squares and alleyways that make up the dazzling-white village of Carmona, the lovely Casa de Carmona is wonderfully insulated from the crowds that swarm through Granada, Córdoba and Seville, Spain’s Moorish golden triangle. That makes it one of the best bases for taking in the artistic splendour of Andalucía.

This is a 16th century nobleman’s palace, converted into a 33-bedroom hotel by Doña Marta Medina, an art historiancum-interior designer. Unsurprisingly, it demonstrates a vast passion for the period.

The building, a triumph in terracotta and ochre, arranges itself around a series of courtyards, one with a pool. The hotel overflows with antiques, paintings, mosaics and gardens, and the attention to decorative detail never lets up for a second.

When you’re ready for the crowd scene, Seville is just 30km away and Córdoba is an hour’s drive.

5. MADE FOR: FRESH-AIR FIENDS MAS DE TORRENT, NEAR GIRONA This is the perfect Catalan combination: within quick-hit range of the resorts on the Costa Brava, but packed with history Clockwise from top left: Finca Cortesin golf course; Renowned chef Ramón Freixa at Grand Central Hotel, Barcelona; The whitewashed Finca Cortesin; An open-air courtyard at Casa de Carmona.

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TOTAL GUIDE | SPAIN

and embedded in secret countryside. At the hotel’s core is a deftly restored 18th century farmhouse with some extremely grand rooms, both public and boudoir.

Most of the bedrooms, though, are in a row of one-storey outbuildings, constructed in honey-hued stone to blend with the original. There’s a real sense of summer calm and plenty of breathing space here, with orchards of oranges and olives, tennis courts and a large pool (some suites have a private one). The restaurant is one of the best in the region – a plate of stewed duck with pears will be your abiding memory.

Nearby villages such as Pals, Begur and Peratallada are Catalonia’s far sleepier answer to the Tuscan hilltops, and you can visit Dalí’s museum in Figueres and his house near Cadaqués. There are some excellent golf courses, too, including five within a 30-minute radius.

6. MADE FOR: LUXURY LINGERERS FINCA CORTESIN, NEAR MARBELLA It’s how you might imagine the holiday home of Julio Iglesias or Antonio Banderas – a whitewashed mansion on the coast, peppered with effortlessly chic Med types playing sweat-free tennis. The atmosphere of Finca Cortesin, on the Costa del Sol, is much like an affluent house party, with a dress code of chinos, white shirt and a tan.

Inside, however, it’s not all gilt goblets and wicker chairs, as some of the Costas’ less tasteful five-stars flaunt. Instead, the finca looks almost curated rather than designed, with gorgeous Moroccan daybeds in the courtyards, faded antique sofas, stone flooring and a bedroom colour scheme that’s somewhere between ‘barely there’ and ‘nothing’.

Trim men come to play golf; their trimmer wives come to spa. It’s one of those hotels where you could easily lose a fortnight, let alone a weekend, especially since the cava flutes of Marbella are just 30 minutes away, and the cobbles of whitewashed Casares village even closer.

October 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 51

Islas bonitas Tackle Spain’s best-loved islands like a local. Here’s how to do Mallorca, Ibiza, Tenerife and Lanzarote (properly).

IBIZA INSIDE TRACK Forget every mental pigeonhole you’ve previously assigned to Ibiza: football yobs chanting through the streets of San Antonio; scenesters sipping expensive drinks in velvet-lined VIP areas; or hippies strumming guitars at sunset. Ibiza is actually the Med’s most luxuriously laid-back island. In fact, visit any time other than peak season (August) and you’ll find most of the White Isle perfectly tranquil.

The prettiest, most peaceful parts are in the north. Snake along hairpin bends, past olive and pomegranate groves, towards tiny Santa Agnes, where been-around-sincethe-beginning-of-time Can Cosmi serves up Spanish omelettes as light and fluffy as a cloud. Afterwards, point the car coastwards – it’s worth putting in the effort to reach the island’s quietest bay, Atlantis Cove. Take the road from Cala d’Hort, on the western tip towards Cala Vedella, then turn onto the first unmarked road on the right after the crossroads and you’ll reach a car park. From here, it’s a 20-minute scramble down to Atlantis Cove, a former quarry with quirky carvings in sandstone surfaces and only the occasional cross-legged yoga enthusiast to disturb the peace.

Go looking for life, and you’ll soon find it. Save the sequinned bikini for Las Salinas beach, a ribbon of silvery sand with four beach restaurants: the chichi Jockey Club has the priciest lunches; there’s dance music at Sa Trinxa; families at Malibu; and beach football at Guarana. Leave an afternoon free to explore the boutiques and higgledypiggledy cobbled streets of Dalt Vila, the World-Heritage-listed Old Town. And when

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night falls, head inland to stylish, low-key La Paloma in San Lorenzo (00 34 971 325543) for homemade mozzarella and pasta. Burning desire to party? The Bedouin tents at KM5, near Sant Josep, are the most sophisticated places to do it.

SECRET SLEEP Atzaró www.atzaro.com is a glamorous retreat hidden on an orange farm inland. Rooms in the newer annexe are exotically oriental, and there’s an impressive spa and tent-topped restaurant. Doubles from $202, B&B.

TENERIFE INSIDE TRACK Of course beach life is big on an island that basks in sun all year-round.

But instead of merging with the masses, lie back with the locals at Playa Arena on the west coast. Families migrate to this volcanic black-sand beach every Sunday afternoon, armed with bread and sliced chesse. That’s also when everyone heads for the hills, where recreational zones like Chío and Las Lajas provide built-in barbecue grills perfect for pine-forest picnics.

While you’re at such elevated altitudes do not, on any account, miss the chance to drive through Las Cañadas, a vast dust bowl with black rivers of petrified lava and surreal, wind-sculpted monoliths, presided over by the omnipresent volcano, Mount Teide. Carry onto the stupendously located Masca, where a switchback road corkscrews down to a hidden hamlet that clings precariously to a steep ravine. Those with an adventurous spirit and reasonable stamina can tramp a threehour trail through tight gullies down to the Opposite page: Crystal clear water in a secluded bay near Portinatx, Ibiza.

TOTAL GUIDE | SPAIN

‘Forget every mental pigeonhole you’ve previously assigned to Ibiza’

October 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 53

ocean where, if you time it right, the Nashira Uno boat (www.losgigantes.com/nashira. htm) will spare your legs the return climb and take you to Los Gigantes port instead.

After such exertion food beckons. For lunch or dinner try Restaurante Azafrán (San Francisco Beach Club, Puerto Santiago; 00 34 922 860677), a chilled-out hilltop eatery near Los Gigantes, with its own sandy beach and beautiful views of La Gomera island. Ask the jolly maître d’ for mojo verde, fish baked in salt with a coriander dip on the side. If you want to eat (almost) alone, La Tasquita de Nino in San Miguel (Calle Estanco 3; 00 34 922 700463) is a converted village post office

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serving up impeccable local cooking to just eight tables.

SECRET SLEEP The tropical secret gardens of the Jardin de la Paz (www.jardin-de-la-paz. com) make a peaceful base for exploring the lush north of the island, with apartments and villas from $256pw. Breakfast is extra, jawdropping ocean views included.

LANZAROTE INSIDE TRACK It is Spain – residents speak Spanish and La Liga football commands devotion – yet Lanzarote is also Latin America: every other restaurant serves Argentine steaks and radio stations play

Opposite page: Mount Teide looks over Parque Nacional del Teide in Tenerife. Top: A luxury vila in Jardin de la Paz.

non-stop samba. Why the split personality?

It was once a stopover for Spanish galleons returning from South America in the 18th century. It even holds a Rio-style carnival, when the streets rock with feather-crowned ladies and men studded in diamanté. The best time to come is in summer outside school holidays, though Lanzarote could never be called busy. Jump in your rental car, turn the radio to Mega Latina (104FM) and drive the LZ30 route through beautiful country.

Continue north to pretty whitewashed Teguise, the former capital; come on

TOTAL GUIDE | SPAIN

‘While you’re at such elevated altitudes do not, on any account, miss the chance to drive through Las Cañadas’

October 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 55

Sunday for the riotous street market or any other day for elderly tranquillity. Truck onwards as the landscape adopts the look of a Roadrunner cartoon – fat cacti, craggy cliffs, sunburnt grass – and you’ll reach Haría town. Loiter over lunch at Meson de la Frontera (00 34 928 835310), enjoying ribs, papas arugadas (wrinkled Canarian potatoes), and views of the valley.

Make time for Caleta de Famara, a wild white-sand beach scattered with wavebattered cottages and a handful of fish restaurants. The very best is El Risco (00 34 928 528550) on the corner of the promenade.

Its menu is irrelevant – waiters simply tell you

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what was caught that morning and you can order it every which way, from steamed fillets to paella-style. When the sun shines (even in winter the average is 18°C), pack a picnic and drive south to remote Punta del Papagayo beach, part of a protected reserve. There are no cafés here, just a kiosk, so these coves, backed by Sahara-style dunes (Morocco is just 200km away), are frequented only by the most savvy of beach-goers.

SECRET SLEEP A villa or casa rural is the best way to experience the island. Meon Villas (www.meonvillas.co.uk) has the fourbedroom L’Autre Chose in Puerto del Carmen from $3,880 (sleeps eight).

MALLORCA INSIDE TRACK To really unravel Mallorca, you need to stretch your legs. This is walking country, so start with the least-trodden path of all, on uninhabited Cabrera island, an hour’s ferry ride away. Here, you can hike to the castle for some sensationally rugged scenery or flop on one of the pretty, deserted beaches. There is no hotel and the last ferry back departs 6pm.

Back on the mainland, leave the coastal party scene and drive inland towards d’Alaró (PM210). Leave your car by the Restaurant Es Verger and take a walk up to the 13th century Castell d’Alaró – from the battlements, the

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Clockwise from top left opposite: Cactus; An old watchtower in Mallorca; Spain’s famous paella; Badia de Sóller; Lamb cutlets; A typical mediterranean village; The mountainous Timanfaya National Park in Lanzarote.

sweeping views of Palma Cathedral to the south and Formentor peninsula to the north are spectacular. Once back at the restaurant (00 34 971 182126) order lamb in olive oil, a local speciality.

For a hearty hike through one of the most beautiful valleys on the island, start at the Mirador ses Barques restaurant on the C710 between Puerto Sóller and Lluc. This is a four-hour walk through pine forests and olive groves, with marvellous views over the cliffs.

Halfway down, call by the farmhouse at Balitx

d’Avall for a glass of fresh orange juice from Maria and Guillermo. When you arrive at Cala Tuent, there’s a great paella restaurant, Es Vergeret (00 34 971 517105) – it’s best to book. Wander down through the woods below the restaurant, either for a cooling dip in the sea or to catch a boat back to Sóller (Barcos Azules; 00 34 971 630170).

The best tip of all? Cala Castell is the most secluded beach in Mallorca. To get there, put on some good walking boots at Cala Sant Vincenç, then head for Cala Barques; the path is well-signposted to Cala Castell. It’s a onehour walk but the gorgeous bay is well worth the slog, and en route you might well see one

‘It’s a one-hour walk but the gorgeous bay is well worth the slog’ of the few black vultures left in the Med. SECRET SLEEP Can Reus (www. canreushotel.com) is hidden away in one of the prettiest villages on the island, Fornalutx.

The former orange merchant’s house has a small pool and lovely views over citrus orchards. Doubles from $164, B&B.

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TOTAL GUIDE | SPAIN

Hit the road

4 brilliant drives through Spain, best enjoyed with the roof down.

COSTA BRAVA A drive to remind you why this Costa’s called Brava, or ‘brave’ – it’s for the wild and dramatic seaside. Start in Figueres, with its Dalí museum, before heading east to the rocky enclave of Cadaqués, then south to the splendid classical remains at Empúries. Inland for a day at Girona, before pushing back to the coast via the Medieval villages of Monells, Pals and Begur. Stay in Llafranc or Calella-dePalafrugell – lovely cove villages – before the mountain-edge drive to busy Lloret de Mar and, finally, Barcelona.

HOW? Fly into Perpignan (France) airport or Girona and out of Barcelona; the trip is around 360km and requires four days.

EXTREMADURA This is the emptiest, vastest swathe of Spain.

Clockwise from top left opposite: The high life in Ronda, Andalucia; The large stretch of Blanes beach in Costa Brava; View of Ria de Ortigueira from Sierra Capelada,Galicia. Front of Cordoba Festival, Andalucia.

La Coruna Santiago GALICIA

‘A drive to remind you why this Costa’s called Brava (brave)’

Kick off south of Salamanca in the rocky ravines of the Monfrague National Park for extraordinary landscapes and wildlife. Then south to the tablelands, through spectacular spots such as Trujillo, Guadalupe and Medellin for memories of conquistador Cortés. Finish in Jerez-de-los-Caballeros and Zafra, the proudest little town in western Spain.

HOW? Fly in to Valladolid airport and out of Córdoba or Sevaille; the trip is around 450km and warrants four days, minimum.

HOW? Fly in and out of Málaga airport; round trip is 840km; take a week.

GALICIA For imposing coastlines and wild interiors, start at the windswept cliffs of Serra da Capelada. Hug the rugged shores of the Rías Altas as you wind your way south to port city A Coruña. Afterwards, drive east to the city of Ourense: from here, the Ribeira Sacra region unfolds, culminating in the jawdropping Sil River Canyon.

HOW? Fly in and out of Santiago de Compostela; the trip is around 350km, but slow-going in parts, so take four days.

ANDALUCÍA A classic trot round Andalucía’s greatest hits.

Take the back road (A335) from Málaga, and spin through spaghetti-western scenery to Granada – and the mighty Alhambra. Now on to Córdoba for the fabulous Mezquita mosque and Seville, the stateliest, idlest, most sensuous city in southern Spain. Curve down to Gibraltar and peel back to Málaga to crash out on the beach.

Gijon Oviedo CANTABRIA ASTURIAS

San Sebastian

Bilbao BASQUE

Leon

NAVARRA Girona

LA RIOJA CATALONIA

CASTILLA LEON

ARAGON

Barcelona COSTA BRAVA

Images: Photolibrary, iStockphoto, Shutterstock, Grand Hotel Barcelona, Finca Cortesin Hotel, Casa de Carmona Hotel, Jardin De la Paz.

ATLANTIC OCEAN Madrid

MINORCA MALLORCA EXTREMADURA

Valencia

CASTILLA LA MANCHA

Badajoz

IBIZA

Seville

Cordoba ANDALUCIA

LANZAROTE

TENERIFE

MOROCCO

Cadiz Marbella

MURCIA

MEDITERRANEAN SEA

SPAIN October 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 59

Eatlike a Prince ( pay like a pauper)

The Royal Oak PALEY STREET | BERKSHIRE

Michelin-star restaurants have a (deserved) reputation for charging extravagant sums for their awardwinning dishes, but that’s far from the case at these star-toting eateries…

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In this little Berkshire hamlet, the polo-playing locals are spoiled for choice at dinnertime – if they don’t fancy the short drive to Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck or Michel Roux’s Waterside Inn (three stars apiece), they can hop in their helicopters and dine in London.

Alternatively, there’s the local: The Royal Oak, where drinks are most often served alongside hot scotch quail’s eggs, miraculously soft in the middle, heavy on sausage meat, and dressed up like golden nuggets. And beyond the snacks, chef Dominic Chapman’s menu is a document of joy: the sea kale, which looks like celery and behaves like asparagus, is only grown in one Scottish garden; it’s then blessed with a ramekin of blood-orange hollandaise, which you’ll want to eat by the spoonful. The lasagne of rabbit isn’t a lasagne, more a deconstructed ravioli – but it’s too silky soft to pick holes in.

Must-eat dish: It’s difficult to describe what happens once you’ve tapped your way through the bronze crust of the crème brûlée, because what lurks beneath is a thick swamp of pale custard so creamy it’ll relieve your mouth of words. Other puds to make you salivate include Baked Alaska, piped like a triumphant white fortress and loaded with ice cream.

The cost: Mains start at $18 (0044 1628 620541).

RESTAURANTS | FINE FOOD

La Réserve Rimbaud

Fonda Xesc

The river Lez flows bottle green beside the terrace, flickering in the sunshine; if you’ve got ringside seats, your waiter will suggest you fling in a chunk of homemade bread, for a glimpse of one of the enormous fish.

Beyond, sweeping greenery completes a picture so idyllic it makes the chic dining room look dull by comparison – it’s all about the outdoors at Rimbaud, which is located just far enough out of Montpellier to perk you up with its fresh air and restorative, seasonal food. Beneath ancient shady trees you might eat mushrooms stuffed into cannelloni, pan-fried scallops marinated in apples fresh from the tree, or sole meunière with poached artichokes and carrot vinaigrette. The Languedoc favourite, bouillabaisse, is served in two stages – seafood first, fish second, with a gap in between for looking up at (by now) starry skies, to a soundtrack of croaking frogs.

Must-eat dish: Black truffles have never been easy to slide subtly into a menu, but La Réserve Rimbaud has been hiding them in its chicken nuggets since the Gousserand brothers dreamed up the recipe for croquettes du Lez in 1902. Take a bite – there’s a reason these beauties have been on the menu for 108 years.

The cost: Three courses for $67; all mains are $38 (00 33 467 725253).

Catalonian cuisine made some headway this year, notching up 60 stars (with the famous El Bulli generously contributing three). Fonda Xesc, a diminutive dining room on a pretty little square in the mountain village of Gombrèn, was perhaps the least expectant recipient. But between its stone walls, vaults and archways, chef Francesc Rovira’s flavour combinations frequently elicit gasps and giggles. His speciality starter is a tidy stack of tuna tartare with apple, avocado and herring eggs – hardly the peasant-fuel you might expect in the surroundings.

Cod is served with pistachio, tomato and sweet basil, while veal cheek is cooked with hazelnuts and mushrooms; the ingredients for both are grown in Fonda Xesc’s back garden. Handily (as there’s nowhere else to stumble back to), there are bedrooms upstairs. And with these bedrooms comes breakfast…

Must-eat dish: Catalonia is responsible for a lot of fresh mushrooms, tomatoes, artichokes and garlic, all grown in its valleys. But while all the dishes infused with that local produce are excellent, our tip is the delectable sorbet; chocolate addicts can always plump for the mousse and you can split desserts – two spoons equals double the fun.

The cost: The tasting menu is $60 (00 34 972 730404).

MONTPELLIER | LANGUEDOC

GOMBRÈN | CATALONIA

October 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 61

Convivio

MIDTOWN | MANHATTAN In New York City, the pursuit of faultless pasta begins and ends at Convivio – a buzzy Italian that won a star in only its second year.

Here, dough is kneaded until fingers ache, and chef Michael White has created tasty vessels for his meat ragu or creamy carbonara. Primi rule, especially malloreddus (saffron gnocchetti with crab and sea urchin) and cicatelli al forno (baked ricotta and semolina dumplings). But it’s all excellent, so if you’re in a group, order shrewdly and pass plates about. The dining room takes its cues from the south Italian menu: it’s noisily ‘convivial’, with sauce stains and beaming grins occupying crisp white tables. And after secondi of parmigiano-crusted veal or black sea bass, the affogato al caffé is dessert and coffee rolled into one: a deluge of espresso poured over gelato.

Must-eat dish: A four-course prix fixe leaves room for a tantalising fifth course. Sfizi comes before primi and is similar to cichetti, or Italian tapas: you can nibble on arancini – gorgeous spheres of baked saffron risotto with molten cheese in the middle. These, along with a few mouth-watering castelvetrano olives and grilled mushrooms, are the surest signs you’re on to a winner.

The cost: The prix fixe menu is $62 (00 1 212 599 5045).

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RESTAURANTS | FINE FOOD

Arbutus

Tim H o Wan

The question most often asked after a meal at Arbutus is this: if they can produce Michelin-starred food this affordably in Soho, why can’t the rest of the capital’s restaurants manage it? And while we wait for an answer, Arbutus cracks on – preening and perfecting a menu that has been quietly winning fans since 2006. The lunch menu is most popular, presenting three beautiful courses for $26, a sum total you could almost match with a particularly lavish trip to Pret a Manger. But the à la carte is astounding value too: sea bream is generously scattered with Cornish mussels and fresh bergamot, while the grilled rib of grass-fed beef with gratin dauphinois (for two), is the top-of-the-menu dish you’d usually have to rule out on price grounds.

Must-eat dish: The squid and mackerel burger. While Arbutus’ menu keeps evolving, depending on what chef Anthony Demetre can pick up from the market, the ‘s&m’ would be too sorely missed to strike off.

Chunks of perfectly cooked squid are packed into mackerel, with the help of ginger, garlic and olive oil, before being pan-fried and garnished with razor clams and sea purslane.

The cost: The three course lunch menu is $26. Mains start at $26 (020 7734 4545).

This is the cheapest Michelin-star restaurant in the world. The most expensive dish at this basic dim sum canteen, in Hong Kong’s gritty Mongkok neighbourhood, is just $2 (the chicken feet), while $1 will buy you steamed beef dumplings. The total bill for two, ordering food till you burst, will come in at around $15. Compare that to Alain Ducasse’s tasting menu in Paris – $490pp. Tim Ho Wan means ‘Add good luck’ in Cantonese, and you’ll need it if you’re going to get in. Despite opening from 10am till 10pm, there are long queues all day – so long, in fact, a ticket system was introduced when numbers got out of hand. Hopeful diners pick up their number at the door and wait to be called. A short wait might be an hour, but most people are lingering for two to three hours before they eat.

Must-eat dish: So, how does a dim sum restaurant serving $1 dishes win a Michelin star? It’s down to owner Mak Pui Gor, who was formerly dim sum chef at the Four Seasons Hong Kong – famous in Asia for his barbecue buns. Unsurprisingly then, when he opened his own place the Michelin star soon followed… as did the buns. Order them at the end of your feast and get another box to go, as veteran diners do.

The cost: Mains from $1 (Shop 8, 2-20 Kwong Wa Street, Mongkok).

Images: Arbutus, Convivo, The Royal Oak, Shutterstock.

SOHO | LONDON

MONGKOK | HONG KONG

October 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 63

CONCIERGE Paris | Brussels | Tokyo | Kenya

THE 30-SECOND CONCIERGE

SAYONARA JUHENS, HOTEL FOUQUET’S BARRIÈRE, PARIS What will guests enjoy most about a stay at your hotel?

We have an enviable location which sees us standing proud on the corner of Champs-Elysées and George V, which is lined with high-fashion boutiques – an exceptional Louis Vuitton store is mere metres from the hotel lobby. Our property is also part of the only French-owned hotel group (Lucien Barrière) in Paris, so our exceptionally friendly and knowledgeable staff guarantee guests an authentically French experience.

If I only have time to do three things in Paris, what should they be?

The Eiffel Tower, of course, is a must-see. It’s the most visited monument in the world and the symbol of Paris. At night, it sparks up every hour on the hour, lighting up like a jewel to remind you why Paris is the

City of Light The Champs-Elysées and its immediate neighbourhood, which includes Arc de Triomphe, is a great place to walk around. Who wouldn’t want to stroll along the world’s most beautiful avenue? Lastly I’d recommend a cruise along the Seine. It’s a great way to see the city’s stunning buildings and architecture, and you can even enjoy a nice dinner along the way.

What’s your top restaurant tip to enjoy Middle Eastern food in Paris?

The best way to enjoy Middle Eastern is to go to the city’s best Lebanese restaurants. Try Al Ajami (58, Rue François), Le Pavillon Noura (21, Avenue Marceau) or Le Grand Venise (171, Rue de la Convention). www.fouquets-barriere.com

October 2010 Kanoo World Traveller

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Japan

VISIT TOKYO

Sophia Osman explores the two faces of Japan’s thriving metropolis

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etting off a plane in Tokyo is an experience like no other. Once you clear customs, you step aboard one of the smoothest, fastest and most modern trains you’re ever likely to encounter. Yet, as you speed your way from Narita Airport to Tokyo’s inner-city, you’ll catch glimpses of a more traditional Japan; one that’s filled with rice paddy fields and shapely pagodas. It’s this contrast between old and new, developed and developing, that make Japan the paradox that it is.

To overcome the confusion that Tokyo’s two sides can cause, it is often best for visitors to approach it as a collection of small towns, rather than view it as one large city. With so much to do and see, it’s best to create your own list (or follow ours) of sight-seeing must-dos, but the real beauty of this city is in the unknown; and allowing your natural curiosity to guide you will lead to much delight as you discover the weird, the wonderful, and the quite simply unexpected.

Prepare for an enlightening journey.

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TOKYO MUST-DOS Go in spring for cherry blossom season (’sakura’) in Tokyo’s parks.

Ueno Park (1) is the spot to celebrate ‘Hanami’ festivals (from the Japanese ‘hana’ meaning ‘flower’ and ‘mi’ meaning ‘to look’) and marvel at the sight of over one thousand cherry-blossom trees in bloom.

Head to Nikko and experience the beauty of its mountains and National Park. While there, be sure to visit Toshogu (2); Japan’s most revered, historical shrine.

Take a trip to Tokyo Ryogoku Kokugikan (3) and watch Japan’s national sport: sumo-wrestling.

Over 2,000 years old, its rules have been passed down through history, making it a time-honoured past time. Near the venue you’ll

be able to see the massive wrestlers walking by in traditional dress while being snapped by paparazzi-like tourists.

Tokyo’s retail speciality is electronics and Akihabara Electric Town (4) is a den for all-things technical: the brighter the better.

Dedicate an evening to one ever-popular activity: karaoke. It’s easy to find karaoke boxes all over the city, which give privacy to groups of friends who can sing to their hearts content.

Don’t leave without seeing Tokyo’s most iconic sight: Mount Fuji (5). Around 200,000 people scale its heights each year, but you don’t have to do the hard climb: head to Hakone, at Fuji’s foot, and take a cable car to the top for truly fantastic views.

CONCIERGE | TOKYO

Opposite page: Mount Fuji in all its snow-capped glory.

This page, clockwise from top left: Trees full of cherry blossom in spring; super-fresh sushi; Sumo wrestlers ready for battle; Tokyo’s Shinjuku District at night; The stunning view from Park Hyatt Tokyo’s signature restaurant.

WHERE TO EAT

VENDING MACHINES: Too tired for a mall trawl? These plentiful machines churn out all sorts of goodies, from rice to mobile phones and brollies. CLEAN SOCKS: You never know when you’ll be asked to remove your shoes (usually in restaurants) so wear your best socks.

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Tsukiji Tama-sushi (9) Takashimaya Times Square 13F, 03-5361-1866 You can’t go to Tokyo without eating sushi and this place is just the ticket, with its daily fresh fish bought from a local market. Get there early to beat the hungry crowds. From $70 for two.

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BUNKYO

Ginza Yoshimizu Inn (7) Ginza, www.yoshimizu.com If you harbour a taste for tradition, book a Ryokan (Japanese inn or bed and breakfast) like this one for a truly authentic experience. This hidden gem is nestled in the hub of Tokyo’s shopping district. From $320, including breakfast.

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Jojoen Yugentei (8) Jojoen Bldg. 3-24-18 Nichi-Azabu, 03-3796-8989 Sample a Japanese restaurant of a different kind at this ‘yakiniku’ eatery – meaning ‘grilled meat’.

Inside, you can order meats and vegetables, then grill them yourself in the middle of the table. Book early to secure a table at this ohso-popular spot. Dinner from $90.

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Images: Park Hyatt, Tokyo; Photolibrary, Shutterstock & iStockphoto.

WHERE TO STAY Park Hyatt Tokyo (6) Shinjuku, www.tokyo.park.hyatt.com Located in the heart of Tokyo, this five-star hotel’s setting offers easy access to all the action. Occupying the top 14 floors of Shinjuku Park Tower, its expansive city views stretch all the way to Mount Fuji.

From $620, room only.

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Mount Fuji 5 (100km)

October 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 67

Belgium

VISIT BRUSSELS

Art Nouveau architecture, mouth-watering chocolatiers and chic café culture; there’s more than enough to whet your appetite in Belgian’s charming capital. Laura Binder takes a look...

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russels serves up a sensory feast for the eyes and palate alike. Dramatic Art Noveau architecture radiates a rich sense of history, while quaint streets lined with charming cafés are the place to surrender an entire afternoon to people watching – do so when tucking into fat moules frites (mussels and chips) or sweet, hot waffles. Cobbled streets provide a chance to walk it off, until you’re faced with one of its many impossibleto-ignore chocolatiers; whose wonderous displays and wafting scents will send you into a mesmerised (and mouth-watering) state – we kid you not. Brussel’s wickedly indulgent streak is softened by an arts and antiques scene: meander through row upon row of potential treasures at a flea market, or quietly peruse a polished art gallery on a rainy day. This is one strollable city, so master it on foot and take advantage of its tram and easy-to-use metro (which has music playing on the platform while you wait), a cheap and cheerful change to the sparse and pricey cabs.

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BRUSSELS MUST-DOS Grand Place (1) is the city’s main tourist attraction; an aptlynamed courtyard whose imposing buildings are infused with history.

Bag an al fresco spot at one of the many surrounding cafés, tuck into Belgian fare and soak up the city’s vibes.

Passion Chocolat (2) If you’re going to give into temptation you may as well do it in Brussels’ best chocolate shop. Devour Belgian treats that look like little pieces of art and taste...divine.

Place du Luxembourg (3) in Flagey is the place to head in summer time when the rooftops of its many hip and happening lounges are teaming with hot young things soaking up the rays.

While you’re there, head to the

tiny yet stylish Art Deco cinema in the Flagey arts complex (4) which shows old Hollywood classics like Casablanca and Sunset Boulevard.

One man’s junk is another man’s treasure; so why not scour the many antique shops in Marolles? (5) Shopaholics of every kind can get their fix here. Place du jeu de Balle (6) is a charming flea market where you can have a jovial haggle over all manner of trinkets.

Or, go to Avenue Louise (7) for upmarket designer shops.

After an art fix?

Cinquantenaire (8) is a picturesque park that features quaint museums and art galleries.

Pack a picnic and head to Tervuren (9), a huge forest where you can swap bustling café culture for lush, green surroundings.

CONCIERGE | BRUSSELS

Opposite: Wander down cobbled streets and enjoy cafe culture. This page, clockwise from top left: The historic Houses of Bruxelles; Sample fine cuisine at Comme Chez Soi; Find boutique chic at Be Manos; The grand lobby at La Plaza; The Royal Palace in Cinquantenaire.

118 – 126 Boulevard Adolphe www.leplaza-brussels.be

23 Place Rouppe, 1000 www.commechezsoi.be

Created in a vision of Parisian style in the 1930s, this hotel was a favoured haunt of the aristocracy.

Today, it’s one of the city’s last independent hotels – and the most ancient. Expect chic style and modern luxuries. From $155.

Dine in Art Noveau style at this famous French restaurant, whose three-star Michelin rating and 75-year-old history speak for themselves. Prepare to book in advance for a weekend dinner date, or plump for a lavish lunch.

Mains from $42.

Be Manos (11) Aux Armes de Bruxelles (13)

SCHAARBEEK BRUSSELS

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13 Rue des Bouchers www.armebrux.be If you’ve had your moule frites fix on the tourist trail and want fish of a more upmarket kind, this cosy eatery is a known haunt among locals. Try their speciality; raw mussels. Mains from $18.

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23 Square de l’Aviation, 1000 www.bemanos.com This funky, boutique haven near the Midi Station is all monochrome palettes, retro décor and sixties flair. Its bedrooms have stacks of space too, so there’s plenty of room to kick off your walking shoes. From $443.

SLEEPY SUNDAYS: This is one very restful city come Sunday: many cafés and shops are closed, so save the cinema for this dozey day. GET AWAY: With excellent rail links, why not book an overnight trip? Be in Amsterdam by train in two-and-a-half hours, from Brussels Central.

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WHERE TO EAT Comme Chez Soi (12)

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Images: iStockphoto, Comme Chez Soi, Be Manos, Shutterstock.

WHERE TO STAY Hotel Le Plaza (10)

N October 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 69

Feeling excited about your holiday? Check through our list of the most popular Kanoo Travel offices, find one near you and head down or call up to turn your getaway dreams into reality...

BAHRAIN Abu Obeidah Avenue Wroad No. 302 Manama Tel. 17 576950 Air Canada/Austrian Airlines/Polish Olympic Airways/Sudan Airways/ Sas/Swiss Int’l/Tunis Mahooz Tel. 17 828770 Air India Manama Tel. 17 220788 Airport Office Bahrain Tel. 17 321325 Al Moayd Tower Manama Tel. 17 220220 Awali Branch Sitrah Avenue Road No. 4522 Tel. 17 756487 British Airways Manama Tel. 17 220701 Cyprus Airways Manama Tel. 17 220849 Egypt Air Manama Tel. 17 220747 Kanoo Holidays Mahooz Tel.17 828802 Kanoo Travel Refinery Tel. 17 755012 Lufthansa Mahooz Tel. 17 828763 Mahooz Tel. 17 828754 Qantas/Jetabout Manama Tel. 17220743 Thai International Mahooz Tel. 17 828771

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EGYPT Alexandria Booz Allen 1 Youssef El-Shazly Street Roushdy, Alexandria Tel. 002 03 5459265

1 Wahib Doss Str. Office No 9, Maadi Tel. 002 02 27513930

Kanoo Travel Rabigh Tel. 02 423 2785

Srilankan Airlines Jeddah Tel. 02 263 2959

Kanoo Travel Taif Tel. 02 736 4211

Umalquara Street Hayfer Makkah Tel. 02 544 7741

Alexandria 14 May Str, Sayadlia Building, Symoha Tel. 002 03 424 1050

FRANCE Bureau de Change Kanoo Printemps Dept. Store 64 Boulevard Haussmann 75009 Paris Tel. +33 1 4282 4181

Aswan Abtal El-Tahrir Street Corniche El-Nil Tel. 002 097 2306983

Foreign Exchange 11 Rue Scribe Paris 75009 Tel. +33 1 5300 9897

Air Canada Jeddah Tel. 02 263 2996, Ext. 190

Cairo C/O Halliburton Overseas Ltd Kilometer No 10, Land No 30 Ein Sokhna Road North Kattamia, Cairo Tel. 002 02 27591690

Foreign Exchange 11 Cours de I’Intendance Bordeaux 33000 Tel. +33 5 5600 6336

Air India Jeddah Tel. 02 668 0303/669 6571

Dr. Kamal Hussin Heliopolis, Cairo Tel. 002 02 26251307 El Areesh C/O Mfo, Northern Sinai Tel. 002 068 3502868 Heliopolis Business Travel Centre 33 Nabil Elwakkad St Heliopolis, Cairo Tel. 002 02 4130375/6

OMAN Kanoo Travel LLC PO Box 75 114 Jibroo, Muscat Tel. +968 24700249 QATAR Museum Street Corporate Centre Al Hithmi, Doha Tel. 448 3777 Old Al Salatta, Doha Tel. 441 3441

Kasr El Nil 15 Kasr El Nil Street Down Town Tel. 002 02 25747991

Ras Laffan Commercial Complex Ras Laffan Tel. 474 8772/4

Luxor Winter Palace Hotel Tel. 002 095 2378333

Salam Tower West Bay, Doha Tel. 483 7826/483 7297

Nile Hilton Down Town, Cairo Tel. 002 02 25785001 C/O Schlumberger Zeiny Tower 25 Misr Helwan Road Maadi Tel. 002 02 7684700 Ext. 1014 C/O U.N.D.P 4th Floor, World Trade Center 1191 Cornich El Nil Tel. 002 02 25804491

Kanoo World Traveller October 2010

SAUDI ARABIA WESTERN PROVINCE Kanoo Centre Medina Road, Jeddah Tel. 02 661 4950

Aboobacker Al Siddiq Street, Medina Tel. 04 823 9120

Albishar Commercial Centre King Abdulaziz Street Al Bahar, Yanbu Tel. 04 322 1087 Al Nawa Commercial Centre Al Sinnaiyat, Yanbu Tel. 04 321 3607 Bab Makkah Jeddah Tel. 02 644 9030 Bamaroof Centre Hail Street, Jeddah Tel. 02 653 0541 Gulf Air Jeddah Tel. 02 668 0303/669 Kenyan Airways Jeddah Tel.02 263 2959 Ext. 108 Khamis Abha Main Road Khamis Mushayat Tel. 07 222 3624 Philippine Airways Jeddah Tel. 02 263 2959 Ext. 100/122

City Centre Al Mahoob Buidling Hufuf Tel. 03 586 3823 Dhahran Street Damman Tel. 03 833 7694

United Airlines Jeddah Tel. 02 263 3021/2959 Ext. 196/197

Gulf Air Khobar Tel. 03 896 8496/ 9393/8493

EASTERN PROVINCE Kanoo Building Corniche Road Jubail Tel. 03 362 2340

Gulf Air Dammam Tel.03 835 4194/4917/ 4952

Kanoo Holidays Retail Airline Centre, Khobar Tel. 03 882 2206/2601/2249 Kanoo Holidays Wholesale Airline Centre Khobar Tel. 03 8821626/1851/ 8820161 Kanoo Tower King Saud Street, Damman Tel. 03 833 9793

Gulf Air Qatif Tel. 03 852 9384/ 854 5240 Gulf Air Rastanura Tel. 03 667 8041/7972 Gulf Air Hofuf Tel. 03 585 3358/ 4080/2252 Gulf Air Jubail Tel. 03 363 0982/84

Airport Office Dammam Tel. 03 883 2660/2660

Hertz Khobar Tel. 03 882 2005/5597

Air India Khobar Tel. 03 882 2478

King Khalid Street Khobar Tel. 03 864 7471

Air India Jubail Tel. 03 362 3454

Municipal Street Al Khafji Tel. 03 766 0045

Al Quds Street Qatif Tel. 03 851 5009

Qantas Khobar Tel. 03 882 3711/2467

British Airways Khobar Tel. 03 882 2000

Srilankan Airlines Khobar Tel. 03 882 2789/2675/2792

Kanoo Travel Medinah Tel. 02 263 3040

Prince Sultan Street Gizan Tel. 07 317 4285

British Airways Dammam Tel. 03 835 5714

Kanoo Travel Sharafiya Tel. 02 643 9426

Singapore Airlines Jeddah Tel. 02 657 9898

British Airways Jubail Tel. 03 362 1069

United Airlines/Air Canada/Singapore Airlines/Swissair/ Austrian Airlines Tel. 03 882 1518/2962/ 2602/03 882 4477/4442

CONCIERGE | BOOK YOUR TRIP

WIN A TWO-NIGHT STAY AT JUMEIRAH BAB AL SHAMS DESERT RESORT & SPA

A short – it’s closer than you think – drive from Dubai stands the beautiful Jumeirah Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa, a magical, private retreat surrounded by nothing but sweeping sands. Here you can enjoy superb dining and leisure options that make the most of the resort’s stunning setting, and take in deep-red sunsets and star-filled skies to die for.

THE PRIZE We’re giving one very lucky reader the opportunity to win a two-night stay for 2 at this wonderful resort. All you need do is email through the correct answer to the following question to easywin@hotmediapublishing.com:

Q. Which of the following can you enjoy at Bab Al Shams? a) a camel ride b) a boat ride c) a rollercoaster ride TERMS AND CONDITIONS: Entries must be submitted on or before October 31st 2010 and the winner must use their prize before April 30th 2011, though outside of the following dates: 1st-4th (inclusive), and 10th-20th (inclusive) November 2010, 1st-4th (inclusive) December 2010, 25th December 2010, 30th December 2010-2nd January 2011 (inclusive), 14th January 2011, 24th February 2011, 25th-29th (inclusive) March 2011, 23rd-27th (inclusive) April 2011.

47th Street Rahima Tel. 03 667 0388 CENTRAL PROVINCE Kanoo Tower King Abdul Aziz Road Riyadh Tel. 01 477 2228 Kanoo Travel Naseem Tel. 01 232 8519 Airport Road Hail Tel. 06 543 0430

Main Street Al Khamseen Wadi Ad Dawasir Tel. 01 784 6500

Kanoo Building Khalid Bin Al Waleed Street, Bur Dubai Tel. 04 507 2242

Najda Street Abu Dhabi Tel. 02 678 0400

Philippine Airlines Kanoo Tower Riyadh Tel. 01 477 2228 Ext. 237/238

Kanoo Building Al Orouba Street, Sharjah Tel. 06 561 6058

UK Birmingham American Express Bank House 8 Cherry Street Tel. 0121 644 5514/ 0121 644 5560

Qantas Kanoo Tower Riyadh Tel. 01 477 2228 Ext. 288/305

Air India Kanoo Tower, Riyadh Tel. 01 477 2228

Sharjah Street Hotat Bani Tamim, Al Hotah Tel. 01 555 0304

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October 2010 Kanoo World Traveller 71

CONCIERGE | NANYUKI

SUITE DREAMS THE SANCTUARY AT OL LENTILLE, KENYA

What a way to start your day. Open your eyes in Eyrie House and you’ll be waking up to this stunning view across the African wilderness; a lump-in-the-throat display of rolling, rugged hills. If you can bear to pull yourself out of bed – which, by the way, is gigantic and round – you can sprawl on the rug before the room’s floor-to-ceiling windows, or take a few steps outside to the suite’s secluded rock bath, just another place to soak up a taste of Africa. Eyrie House is one of four exclusive and fully-staffed houses at The Sanctuary Ol Lintelle and gets ‘that’ view thanks to its position – perched on the flanks of a wooded rock kopje. Stay here and you’ll find yourself in the heart of a conservation area, so don’t be surprised if you see a leopard or hyena stroll by. www.ol-lentille.com

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Kanoo World Traveller October 2010

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