Kanoo World Traveller_Sep'12 by Hot Media

ak re i ’ b ba nd u sa D d an an lm n ul ‘su h P A wit

SEPTEMBER 2012

THE MIDDLE EAST’S BIGGEST TRAVEL MAGAZINE

Produced in International Media Production Zone

RUNNING WILD

Chasing tail on the wildebeest migration

Berlin

Take a trip through the capital’s history books

hotels to make it big on the silver screen

Isles of Scilly Natural splendours await off the Cornish coast...

KANOO WORLD TRAVELLER SEPTEMBER 2012

CONTENTS TRAVEL BITES 05 CHECK IN

Must-do autumn road trips, plus we reveal the world’s most liveable cities

14 COMPETITION

Win a three-night stay in the heart of Dubai, with family-friendly fun galore

17 WHERE TO STAY

Searching for a Beijing bolthole? Look no further than these pristine pads

18 PICTURE THIS

See the world’s hardiest flamingos in Avaroa National Reserve, Bolivia

21 10 SILVER-SCREEN HOTELS

Love movies and travel? Recreate standout scenes in the suites of these celluloid stars – film contract not required...

62 VISIT: BELFAST

Northern Ireland’s capital is brimming with charm and cultural gems

64 VISIT: MUSCAT

Head to Muscat for ancient beauties, grand mosques and magnificent markets

68 SUITE DREAMS

Take a glimpse at a stylish safari abode on the edge of Kruger National Park

FEATURES 29 ISLES OF SCILY These windswept British islets offer a tasty trip with a difference – one hardy traveller tries his hand at foraging for supper, with delectable results

34 KENYA

East Africa’s Great Migration is one of nature’s finest spectacles – and with good reason. KWT’s Laura Binder heads to the wilds to see for herself

54 BERLIN

This emerging city is Europe’s newest cultural capital – from World Wars to modern art, there’s an exhibition (and café) to suit every interest

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Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in Kanoo World Traveller.

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September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 3

UnWInd At tHe fIneSt AddReSS In QAtAR Escape to our exclusive beach with private oceanfront cabanas. Slip into an Olympic-size pool or take a dip in the inviting blue waters of the Arabian Gulf. Revel in water sports that excite or soothe, arranged by your St. Regis Butler. The joy of leisure redefined by The St. Regis Doha. Come, explore.

the st. regis doha al gassar resort po box 14435 west bay doha qatar stregisdoha.com tel +974.4446.0000 fax +974.4446.0001

hotel debuts :

abu dhabi

bal harbour

ÂŠ2012 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, St. Regis and their respective logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates.

mauritius

sanya

doha

bangkok

florence

shenzhen

stregis.com

tianjin

CHECK IN | NEWS

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BE INFORMED, BE INSPIRED, BE THERE

INDIA

FAIRMONT JAIPUR Fairmont’s first Indian resort in The Pink City is full of Mughal promise... Followers of Fairmont hotels and resorts can add a new destination to their travel wish list – the brand has just opened its first property in Jaipur, bringing with it new (not to mention luxurious) reason to make for The Pink City. Once there, you’ll be in the heart of India’s Golden Triangle, immersed in a region that’s full to the brim with palaces, ancient forts and must-see landmarks – among them, the Taj Mahal (if you’re yet to see it,

you simply must). Inspired by the Mughal dynasty, the hotel is a show of authentic archways, while its rooms (225 in total) bring with them ornate screens and striking floors. And we hear the hotel serves up plenty of treats for gourmands too – after all, Mughals are known for their all-out feasts. Our tip is to reserve a table in Zarin (the resort’s Indian speciality restaurant) for an authentic taste of India, while Fairmont’s traditional

afternoon tea has been given a fitting twist with a live Masala Chai station serving Adrak Wali Cha – a local take on ginger-infused tea. But that’s not the only way to embrace Jaipur: traditional dancing can be seen in the hotel courtyard, tea can be taken in the gardens, trips to the Amber and Jaigrah Forts organised at the drop of a hat, and even a game of elephant polo isn’t out of reach... fairmont.com/jaipur September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 5

IRELAND

Festival season Drop into Dublin anytime in September or October and you’ll find the Irish city in full festival swing – KWT highlights the autumnal events you won’t want to miss

The newlyreleased 36 Hours collates travel writers’ weekend guides to America and Canada: Sam Sifton spotlights his

beloved borough of Brooklyn, Ariel Kraminer reveals her Lower Manhattan loves, while David Carr points to

Minneapolis. Playful but practical maps and colourful photos also ensure sound inspiration for your trip. taschen.com

Town and country Mountains to Sea DLR Book Festival (4-9 September) takes place in Dún Laoghaire (a charming seaside town) where you can listen to the very best Irish and international writers read previews of their written work. Fashion followers meanwhile should make time for the Dublin Fashion Festival (6-9 September) which sees the city streets surrender themselves to style (complete with treats and offers), while fashion shows take hold in lounges and restaurants citywide. This year look out for the Pop-Up Vintage Store in the GPO Arcade, off Henry Street. If arts are your bag, the ABSOLUT Fringe Festival (8-23 September) is Ireland’s largest multi-disciplinary arts festival. Now in its 18th year, it’s set to stage up to 650 events, with some 150,000 vistors flocking for a Fringe experience. Night owls should stay up late for Dublin Culture Night (21 September) when, for one night only, Dublin’s museums, galleries, historic houses, artists’ studios, cultural centres (the list goes on…) keep their doors open til late for a free night of entertainment. If architecture floats your boat, though, the Open House Dublin (5-7 October) is one way to absorb 100 buildings from every period, creating an architectural tour of the city (plus a multitude of events you can attend for free). discoverireland.ie 6 September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

Open your window and what do you wish to see: rolling pea-green hills or a sea of skyscrapers? KWT pips an all-new urban gem against a justopened country retreat...

QT Sydney, Australia designhotels.com/qt_sydney Style: Set in the legendary Gowers department store and heritage-listed State Theatre, this design hotel blends Australian heritage (see original stone and gargoyles on the lower levels) with cutting-edge design (note the edgy accessories). Facilities: Gowings Bar & Grill is set to attract Sydney socialites with its New York style, while the hotel’s day spa is one for luxury-seekers. Best bit: The upper floor is joined to the 1920s, Art Deco-style State Theatre (which is still open today) and just the thought of stars of screen and stage gracing the hotel’s walls lends it a magical buzz...

Tree House Suites, UK chewtonglen.com Style: Rustic splendour unravels in 12 wooden Tree House Suites perched atop stilts along the tree-lined valley of Chewton Glen hotel. Cue curved wooden lines, zinc roofs, tweed furniture, huge windows and private decks in the treetops. Facilities: A ‘treehouse concierge’ means meals and spa treatments can all be arranged – and even electric cars for those less inclined to walk. Best bit: The suites’ luxe touches will have you holed up for days: bedrooms are reached by glass-sided walkways, breakfast hampers delivered by a secret hatch and hot tubs come perched on decks.

FUN FOR

THE WHOLE FAMILY

Get set to rev your engines. At Ferrari World Abu Dhabi, you finally have the chance to get behind the wheel and see where your imagination takes you. When you visit the world’s first Ferrari branded theme park, you’ll finally have the chance to live the Ferrari dream in ways you never imagined possible. Experience the legend like never before, with over 20 rides and attractions in the world’s largest indoor theme park.

ferrariworldabudhabi.com

Five ways to hit the road The leaves are turning, the tourists have gone, and the harvest’s ripe for the picking – now’s the time to get behind the wheel

Milford Road, New Zealand It’s springtime south of the equator, and the snow on the road to Milford Sound is melting. The UNESCO World Heritage site has lain dormant for months, but springtime brings new life: nesting penguins, dolphins, seals and sea lions can be found at the end of the 74-mile road from Te Anau. Make time for the journey: the track threads through the Fiordland National Park, a million-hectare haven of waterfalls, rainforest and glaciers. With wild flowers flourishing and camping sites and log cabins galore, there are few more picturesque ways to get back to nature.

Namaqualand Flower Route, South Africa The semi-desert of Namaqualand lies arid for most of the year, but when the rains come a miraculous transformation takes place: millions of daisies and wildflowers burst from the earth, daubing the landscape with vibrant colour. Take the road from Garies to Pofadder, crossing the Orange River and passing through small farming settlements. As far as the eye can see, a vibrant carpet covers the plains with zesty orange, sweet pink and bright scarlet blooms – with the eerie limbs of the Kookerboom trees reaching towards the sky.

Cascade Lakes, Oregon, USA After a long hot summer, the west coast flourishes, with sprawling forest succumbing to deep autumn colours, and the state’s juicy harvest of pumpkins, cranberries, grapes and apples waiting to be plucked. What better way to take in the colours – and feast on those fruits – than following the 83-mile route from Bend to Sunriver? Take it slow, exploring the volcanic high desert plain, dense rusty red and burnt orange forest webbed by bubbling freshwater springs, and the towering Mount Bachelor’s hiking and biking trails.

KNOW BEFORE YOU GO On the road? Be sure to heed these handy tips... In France, you can expect an immediate €11 fine for failing to have a breathaliser in your car, and drivers in Bulgaria should carry a fire extinguisher at all times. In Greece, smoking while driving will get you 8 September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

Amalfi Coast, Italy With its turquoise lagoons, unspoiled beaches and quaint villages, it’s no surprise that Italy’s most scenic stretch of coast made the UNESCO World Heritage Site list. Depart from the port town of Salerno, then head to the lofty town of Ravello (1,198 feet above sea level) for idyllic gardens and coastal views. Take a break from the road in Amalfi’s seafront cafés, or take to the ravine-side hiking trail of Valle dei Mulini. Just a few miles to the west, the emerald waters of the Grotta dello Smeraldo marine cave wait – as does the mountainous road to Sorrento.

Santa Fe Trail, New Mexico Winding from Taos to Albuquerque, this route descends into the deep gorges of the Sangre de Cristo mountain range, taking in the adventuresports hot-spot of Cimarron (test your nerves with bungee swings), and the ex-coal mining ghost towns in Sugarite Canyon State Park. You’ll find cinder cone peaks in Capulin Volcano National Monument, and 100-million-yearold dinosaur footprints in Clayton Lake State Park – but try to reach Albuquerque before October 6, to catch the spectacular International Balloon Fiesta.

in trouble, as will using a mobile phone. When on the road in Italy, keep your headlights dipped at all times (the same goes for Sweden), and only park up in the direction of traffic flow. In the USA, animals are a tricky subject: in parts of California, ducks and peacocks have right of way, and it’s illegal to overtake a horse in Indiana.

GRAND DESIGNS Fashion week descends on the world’s most fashionable capitals this month, kicking off in the Big Apple: is there a trendier time to take a city break? KWT flags up four hotels to ensure a stylish stay

NEW YORK: THE EMPIRE HOTEL Mercedes Benz Fashion Week, 6-13 September Gossip Girl fans will know it as Chuck Bass’s residence, and in reality it’s not far from his high-society world: The Empire Hotel plays regular host to starlets, models and fashion’s most fabulous. The NYC bolthole serves up lashings of glamour from the moment you set foot inside its lobby (leopard print accessories abound), but its rooftop lounge is the spot to head to after dark – the setting of last year’s Fashion Week Party, it also happens to boasts one of the best Big Apple views in town. What’s more, the hotel’s location opposite main fashion week venue The Lincoln Center ensures you won’t have to strut far in your Manolos to catch the big shows… empirehotelnyc.com

LONDON: CLARIDGE’S London Fashion Week, 14-18 September Set in high-end Mayfair, the Art Deco architecture of Claridge’s has long been a beacon of style: stay there for September’s coveted fashion week and you can be sure of a trend-setting time: sleep in the Diane Von Furstenberg-designed piano suite (complete with chandeliers, pink/purple colour palette and butler); eat in Gordon Ramsay’s first-rate restaurant and shop til you drop in nearby Bond Street – high fashion boutiques await just five-minutes away… claridges.co.uk 10 September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

MILAN: ARMANI HOTEL MILANO Camera Moda, 19-25 September We can think of few more fitting places to spend your nights than in a hotel designed by Giorgio Armani himself. Inside, interiors evoke all of the sophistication you’d expect from the silver-haired Italian: think soothing, minimalist colour palette and immaculate furnishing. Don’t leave without savouring an Italian tipple in its Bamboo lounge – a known go-to haunt of the ‘fash pack’ (just try not to spill your drink when a supermodel flounces by). armanihotels.com

PARIS: LE MEURICE Mode à Paris, 25 September-10 October Favoured by virtually every trendsetter under the sun, from Coco Chanel to Madonna, Le Meurice has topped the style stakes from as far back as 1835. Make reservations and you’ll see why: interiors are Louis XI-style (with a modern touch from Philippe Starck); views encompass the famous Eiffel Tower (savour it with macaroons and tea) and eateries include Le Meurice Restaurant – dripping in Chandeliers and gold awnings (not to mention Michelin stars). lemeurice.com

STAY IN STYle ThIS Summer Stay 3 nights & enjoy Dubai Ice Rink or Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Zoo + SEGA Republic Stay 4 nights & enjoy Dubai Ice Rink or Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Zoo + SEGA Republic + KidZania速 Stay 5 nights & enjoy Dubai Ice Rink or Dubai Aquarium & Underwater Zoo + SEGA Republic + KidZania速 + At the Top, Burj Khalifa

For further information on the Armani Hotel Dubai please contact our Reservations Office on +971 4 888 3999 or your local travel agent. For bookings please visit: www.dubai.armanihotels.com | Terms and Conditions apply

AUSTRALIA

THE GOOD LIFE

Melbourne has just been crowned the World’s Most Liveable City by the Economist Intelligence Unit – but what makes the southern star stand out from the global crowd? KWT takes a look…

It’s sporty, it’s sunny, it’s sociable – what’s not to love about Melbourne? The capital of Victoria has never looked better, and it seems the rest of the world is catching on. A blend of cosmopolitan chic with fast-paced business, Melbourne has substance to match that slick city style – and with first-rate housing, transport systems and quality of life, there’s 12 September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

no wonder it’s top of the charts. You don’t have to up sticks to experience its charms, though – make a beeline for Federation Square, the heart of the action, where you’ll find restaurants and night spots galore, or sip flat whites in an eccentric Southbank café. Got some Aussie Dollars to splurge? Chapel Street is where you’ll find all the big-name

brands, or head to Brunswick for up-andcoming labels. The lively backstreets have been a trading hub since the 19th century – and a trip to the Lanes will still take you to the heart of the city. Browse antiques shops, vintage stalls and jewellery boutiques galore, or take an impromptu urban art tour along the

CHECK IN | NEWS

BEST OF THE REST… For culture… Vienna Pipped to the post by Melbourne, this European culture capital is a playground for music-lovers, museum hoppers and gastronomy guzzlers. Vienna Fashion Week runs until the end of this month, showcasing standout style from the city’s creative minds. The Baroque Belvedere Palace is home to the largest collection of Gustav Klimt’s daubings (this year marks 150 years since the great painter’s birth), and the Volksoper Vienna hosts ballet and opera performances galore – the autumn season boasts a line-up of Carmen, Madame Pompadour and Johann Strauß concertos.

For the great outdoors… Vancouver No city has embraced the natural world quite like Vancouver, which is why it’s one of the best cities in which to set up home. Here you’ll find no fewer than 300 parks, beaches and gardens. In Stanley Park – which occupies a whopping 400 hectares of the peninsula – natural West Coast rainforest reigns supreme, with a vast population of indigenous wildlife hiding amongst the cedars. Beaches are just as plentiful, too: nine sandy stretches are within easy reach of the centre, some completely undeveloped and many with ‘quiet areas’ for peaceful lazing.

For beach life… Rio de Janeiro

graffiti-lined Hosier Lane (the vibrant murals are just part of the local creative scene). The tram – another of Melbourne’s institutions – will take you to St Kilda, a quirky, vivacious suburb famous for its café culture and surf scene. The Yarra River is the city’s lifeblood, and whether you’re on it (grab a boat cruise from the harbour), in it (try stand-up surfing on the

rapids) or beside it (an easy bike trail runs along the bank), it’s easy to see why Melbournians love it so. Less than an hour away from the city, you’ll find an adventurer’s paradise: Yarra Valley. Take afternoon tea in a vineyard restaurant, or wander through undulating parkland; life in rural Victoria moves at a deliciously slow pace – and daytrips like this are just another of Melbourne’s gems…

Runner-up Rio fuses beautiful beaches with throbbing city life, proving a sea-loving urbanite’s paradise. Make like a Carioca (local) and head to the world-famous Copacabana and Ipanema stretches – here, the city spills onto the sand, with a lively melee of yuppies, touts, families and travellers. Every year, the crowds congregate for the world’s greatest party, Rio Carnival, but there’s always an impromptu celebration on the go here – the beach is Rio’s true city centre. September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 13

HOT OFFERS

WIN a three-night Dubai city adventure

THE PRIZE As Dubai eases into cooler climes, the city comes alive – which is why now is the perfect time for an urban break. At the Hotel Pullman Dubai Mall of the Emirates, there’s plenty to keep the whole family entertained, not least because of its setting on the edge of Dubai’s iconic shopping and leisure destination. Here you’ll not only find the world’s favourite designer and high street stores on your doorstep, but also a 14-screen cinema complex, kids’ funpark Magic Planet and DUCTAC theatre too. Ski Dubai Snow Park is equally brimming with fun-filled festivities – give snowboarding a go, or make a new penguin friend – and if you fancy a glimpse of old Arabia, the concierge can organise a desert safari experience too. And while curious kids go wild with activities, you can retreat to the hotel’s sleek spa. Rooms are just as stylish, with contemporary touches throughout, and if you don’t fancy venturing far, the Sanabel restaurant has a multicultural menu to suit every palette, and Soda Box café is the place to head for ice cream and cotton candy. pullmanhotels.com 14 September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

Three nights for a family of three with breakfast, entry to Ski Dubai Snow Park and a desert safari plus dinner. To enter, email easywin@ hotmediapublishing.com with your answer before 31 September, 2012. Q. Which of the following animals will you find at Ski Dubai Snow Park? a) Penguins b) Tigers c) Rabbits TERMS AND CONDITIONS: Prize is valid from 31 September 2012 for 6 months, subject to availability and black-out dates. Prize is nontransferable and is not exchangeable for cash. Advance reservation is required.

CHECK IN | WHERE TO STAY

WHERE TO STAY...

BEIJING

Whether you’re after a boudoir fit for a king or a modernist room with a view, head to China’s electric capital for a crop of characterful hotels

START

On the map

Staying in

OROR

Out and about

In style

Regal charm

Fresh face

The Westin Beijing Financial Street

China World Hotel Beijing

starwoodhotels.com/westin

Brimming with Ming and Qing era-style artwork, this opulent palace of red and gold is the ultimate in Chinese chic. Check in to a sumptuous Beijing Suite for crystal chandeliers and an Italian marble whirlpool, then retire to the Summer Palace lounge to be serenaded by the hotel’s own 12-piece orchestra.

shangri-la.com

In the heart of the city’s Financial District sits this contemporary vision of glass and steel – just a few minutes away from the Imperial Palace (a must-see), plus Wangfujing Street’s famous departments stores and the jewels of Hongqiao pearl market.

Sanctuary

Gastronomy

Haute design

The St. Regis Beijing

Fairmont Beijing

stregis.com

fairmont.com

InterContinental Beijing Beichen

With no fewer than 1,500 square metres of glorious spa and thermal pools filled by the hotel’s private hot springs, this is the perfect place to unwind...

Hungry travellers should make a beeline for Lunar 8’s signature Peking Duck – it’s one of the best in town – or tuck into one of The CUT’s award-winning steaks.

Perched on the Olympic Boulevard, this abstract-design bolthole boasts spectacular water features and light installations.

intercontinental.com

Playful pad

Aloft Beijing starwoodhotels.com

With its open-plan lounges, playful colour schemes and soft furnishings galore, this boutique hotel is Beijing’s hippest hangout for trendy young things. September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 17

PICTURE THIS

AVAROA NATIONAL RESERVE Bolivia

As a freezing wind whips across the desolate plains, it’s hard to imagine that anything could survive out here – let alone thrive. But in the shallow waters of the geothermal lakes, 15,000 feet above sea level, stands an army of flamingos, their bubblegum-pink bodies seemingly hovering over the sulphurous waters. These barren valleys are home to three species of flamingo, fiercely protected by the park’s nature reserve status, but birdwatchers beware: to visit here is to pitch war against the elements. The journey from Uyuni takes a punishing three days, and what the air lacks in oxygen it makes up for with a thick eggy stench. Image: Corbis / Arabian Eye

ESSENTIAL SELECTION | HOTELS OF THE SILVER SCREEN

10 Hotels of the Silver Screen

Image: Taj Lake Palace, india

You canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t fail to go starry-eyed when staying at one of these previously-seen-on-screen properties. Laura Binder spotlights the best in show...

September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 21

TAJ LAKE PALACE, INDIA As seen in: Octopussy

Roger Moore couldn’t get enough of Octopussy’s floating palace in the eighties Bond film – and it’s easy to see why: an arrival at its jetty puts you before a vision of white marble, the Aravalli Mountains and city palaces hovering in the background. Thankfully Kamal Khan’s henchmen are nowhere to be seen – in their place are 83 ridiculously ornate rooms and suites, our pick of which are the Grand Royal Suite (dripping in peppermint and gold) and the Chandra Pakash Suite (gilt moldings galore). Romancing a loved one is easy here too (just ask Bond); couples can sail into the sunset on a 150-year-old candlelit barge; take a heritage walk with a royal escort (armed with caviar); or dine on a Rajasthani feast, served by a butler on a grand pontoon over Lake Pichola. tajhotels.com

THE DOLDER GRAND, SWITZERLAND

As seen in: The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo Starchitect Norman Foster is the man behind The Dolder Grand hotel: add to the plot a two Michelinstarred restaurant and it’s a pin-up in its own right. The edge-of-your-seat thriller The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo, though, sealed its fate when it chose the turret-clad hotel for a part in the 2011 picture. Inside there’s plenty to wax lyrical about (the Michelin-star Heiko Neider; standout spa; Zurich and Alps vistas…) but its four Best Suites are the real stars – look to the two-storey Maestro Suite, with its dramatic dark red beams, spire and leather seating. thedoldergrand.com 22 September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

ESSENTIAL SELECTION | HOTELS OF THE SILVER SCREEN

THE PLAZA, USA

As seen in: North by Northwest, Crocodile Dundee, The Great Gatsby

The Plaza is one of those timeless stars: dating back to 1907, it was once said “Nothing unimportant ever happens at The Plaza” – which is perhaps why the Big Apple landmark has hosted an arm-length list of flicks, from Hitchcock’s North by Northwest (which sees a debonair Cary Grant kidnapped from the Oak Bar) to Crocodile Dundee and, most recently, The Great Gatsby with Leonardo Dicaprio. Make for The Plaza’s achingly-fashionable location today and check in to one of its sumptuous Louis XV-inspired suites (as royalty, presidents and superstars have done before you). Little ones meanwhile will delight in the Betsey Johnson-designed Eloise Suite – its candy pink stripes, chandeliers and zebra print carpets will make girls think they’ve set foot in a fairytale. theplaza.com September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 23

The Meydan Hotel raises the bar for service, style and sheer indulgence and a visit to this iconic Dubai landmark will leave you breathless. Luxurious accommodation, several sensational restaurants and plenty of horse racing action make The Meydan Hotel the perfect weekend getaway.

A decision so difficult, trying both is the only option.

Situated in the heart of the Dubai desert, nestled between majestic dunes and clear blue skies, lies an exclusive traditional resort. Renowned for its traditional Arabic hospitality and unique setting, Bab Al Shams Desert Resort and Spa is the ultimate luxury getaway.

For more information call +971 4 381 3231 or email info@meydanhotels.com Please contact your preferred travel partner for further details and bookings.

ESSENTIAL SELECTION | HOTELS OF THE SILVER SCREEN

HOTEL COPACABANA PALACE, BRAZIL

As seen in: Flying Down to Rio Ginger Rogers and Fred Astaire turned heads dancing down the stairs of this palatial 1920s hotel in Flying Down to Rio. Since then stars and glamour-seeking globe trotters alike have set foot through its colossal white façade. While dancing down the stairs is optional, you won’t want to miss out on lounging by its huge pool; flanked by white day beds and scarlet umbrellas, it’s the posing place of choice for beautiful Brazilians. By night experience Cipriani – the hotel’s restaurant, where mouthwatering Italian fare can be eaten beneath Murano Venetian chandeliers and upon plush velvet pews. And if that’s not extravagant enough, the hotel’s $30million renovation certainly will be – it reopens on September 30. copacabanapalace.com/br

LA MAMOUNIA, MOROCCO

As seen in: The Man who Knew too Much

Despite the dark kidnapping plot of Hitchcock’s Moroccan masterpiece, The Man Who Knew Too Much, the 1950s picture captured viewers’ attention with the Moorish décor of La Mamounia. So ravishing is its appearance in fact that Winston Churchill described it as “the loveliest place on earth”. Make for the well-documented Marrakech palace today and you’ll find the opulent property nestled amid royal gardens and hugged by the old city’s walls. If you want to follow Churchill’s lead, the quintessentially English Churchill Suite is the way to go (think Chesterfield desk and distressed leather sofas), while few can resist the hotel rooftop, where you can gaze across the Atlas mountains and sip on mint tea to the thrum of a Moroccan guitar. mamounia.com September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 25

LUTON HOO, UK

As seen in: Four Weddings and a Funeral, Eyes Wide Shut, Never Say Never Again, Wilde Luton Hoo is picture perfect: the stately home’s manicured gardens and ornate water features make you feel as though you’re on the set of a splendid English period drama. With such grandiose surrounds, it’s little surprise that its environs have seen more than a star or two: Tom Cruise has graced its walls for the filming of Eyes Wide Shut, Hugh Grant for Four Weddings and a Funeral (seen in the second reception shot, for the eagle-eyed movie goers among you). And, when KWT stayed here Johnny Depp was reportedly practising his swing on its tennis courts. (Though mum’s the word). Surrender yourself to its quintessential English charms with afternoon tea in the drawing room, a round on its 18-hole golf course, or an afternoon stroll on its 1,000 acres. lutonhoo.co.uk

GRANDHOTEL PUPP, CZECH REPUBLIC As seen in: Casino Royale

Few jet setters can claim to be cooler than Bond (James Bond), so why not up your travel qudos by pulling up to the palatial entrance of Grandhotel Pupp – as Daniel Craig did in Casino Royale. Dubbed ‘Hotel Splendide’ in the flick, you can mimic Craig’s dashing maneuvers around the aristocratic lobby – but, of course, there’s so much more to this 18th 26 September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

century hotel than its entrance. Reserve its ‘In the footsteps of a 007’ package and you can pack in three nights in a luxury room (interiors are wonderfully regal), shooting on its range secret agent-style and sprucing up in the Pupp Royal Spa before heading out for an evening’s entertainment, filled with specially-concocted menus and drinks – no doubt shaken, not stirred. pupp.cz

ESSENTIAL SELECTION | HOTELS OF THE SILVER SCREEN

CHATEAUX LAKE LOUISE, CANADA As seen in: Doctor Zhivago

Icy waterfalls, snow-drenched slopes and powder-topped pines precede the magnificent Chateaux Lake Louise, which appears like a screen-grab from the epic war romance Doctor Zhivago. It’s these very surrounds (in Banff National Park) that Omar Sharif and Julie Christie shared onscreen chemistry in the iconic 1960s film (who can forget that heart-melting sleigh scene?) Mimic the on-screen lovers with winter pursuits, from horse-drawn sleigh rides to ice skating and snow-mobiling, after which you can retreat to the hotel’s cosy, wood-panelled interiors for a spa treatment or to dine in one of its eight restaurants – we love Walliser Stube for classic fondue. fairmont.com

PARK HYATT TOKYO, JAPAN

As seen in: Lost in Translation Lonely souls Bill Murray and Scarlett Johansson form an unlikely bond in Lost in Translation – a cult movie set against the backdrop of Park Hyatt Tokyo. Get a piece of the action by taking a pew in the hotel lounge (where the pair meet on screen), and sup a first-rate tipple while peering over a sea of skyscrapers through its panoramic windows (a position that was intended to reflect the pair’s isolation). Though, in these cutting-edge environs you’ll be hard pushed to feel lonely: suites are super luxurious, the cuisine sophisticated (try Kouze for authentic Japanese bites – on a clear day you can see all the way to Mount Fuji) and a spa that will bring you glorious relief from a non-stop Tokyo. tokyo.park.hyatt.com September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 27

HOTEL DEL CORONADO, USA

As seen in: Some Like it Hot Hotel del Coronado has long topped the glamour stakes in San Diego – Marilyn Monroe was one of the many stars seen sauntering along its beachfront for the making of Some Like It Hot – and presidents, royalty and celebs followed. Dubbed ‘The Del’, it was the largest resort in the world when it opened in 1888 and became a playground for the entertainment industry’s movers and shakers. Thankfully, its time-honoured glamour remains intact today; it is still the oldest (and biggest) all-wooden property in California, with its iconic lipstickred turrets still on display. Those with kids in tow can make the most surfing, sailing, golf and cycling, while couples can sprawl out on a poolside cabana, cosy up by a bonfire on the beach or sail into the sunset (quite literally) on a captained vessel. For an all-American holiday, few resorts beat it. hoteldel.com 28 September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

ISLES OF SCILLY | UK

Cornish Delight

Fresh, wild and free, the coastal vegetation of the Isles of Scilly tastes even better than it looks – as Andy Lyne’s foraging break reveals…

ravelling from London to the Isles of Scilly is some trip. But once I arrive at Hell Bay hotel on Bryher, the smallest of the archipelago’s five inhabited islands (there are a further 51 smaller uninhabited islands), I know it has been worth the effort. With virtually no transport (the hotel has a minibus to get us to and from the quay), no industry and a total population of 85, Bryher’s wild, unspoilt environment makes it ideal for a weekend

of foraging. But I’m no expert – happily that’s where Cornwall-based wild food guide Rachel Lambert comes in. As she leads our small group to the brackish lagoon, the Great Pool, a few yards from the hotel grounds, she enthuses about the mixture of heathland, seashore, fields and hedgerows on the islands that makes for a diverse abundance of edible plants and seaweeds. Lying in the path of the Gulf Stream, the warm, temperate climate has helped make the

islands an Important Plant Area (as defined by the wild plant conservation charity Plantlife) with unique flora and fauna including dwarf pansy and orange birdsfoot that are not seen on the mainland. “Foraging brings together walking, nature, plants and food,” says Lambert, who has been foraging (identifying and picking wild edible plants and flowers) since the mid-Nineties and teaching it for the past five years. She points out a patch of rock samphire growing at the September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 29

30 September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

ISLES OF SCILLY | UK Opening page: The Isles of Scilly. Opposite page clockwise from top left: wild flowers on the coast; St. Marys Boatmens Association; A docked fishing vessel; Bus tours available around the islands; Flying Boat House cottages outside and in; Woman standing at St Agnes. Next page: Aerial shot of Tresco Island.

pool’s edge. “It’s a coastal plant that grows in rocky areas above sea level, as opposed to marsh samphire which grows in salty marshes in water,” she explains as we chew on the juicy and sea-salty leaves and stalks that have a stronger citrus flavour than any samphire I’ve tasted before. On nearby Gweal Hill, we stop by a crop of dark, glossy-green, spear-shaped leaves sprouting from the rocky landscape that on any other day I might have trampled on. Scurvy grass, it turns out, has a pronounced English mustard flavour with a bitter finish. “Captain Cook first sang its praises. It is rich in vitamin C and was taken on ships either in dried form or distilled in liquid to stave off scurvy,” Lambert explains. We pick some of the fleshiest leaves and drop them in Lambert’s wicker basket which she’ll take back to chef Richard Kearsley at the hotel. He’ll incorporate them in one of the special menus that make up our nightly five-course foraged feast during the three-night break. It’s a beautiful clear spring day and only an insistent, chilly wind blowing in off the Atlantic reminds us we’re not in some tropical

‘It’s a beautiful clear spring day and only a chilly wind blowing in off the Atlantic reminds us we’re not in some tropical paradise’ paradise. At a rock pool, we stop and gather some unpromising-sounding gutweed. When deep fried, the hollow, intestinal looking-plant tastes just like the crispy seaweed (that’s actually made from finely sliced cabbage) served in many Chinese restaurants. “One of the great things about seaweeds is that they can extract toxins from the body,” Lambert tells me. However, some varieties can absorb the toxins from poor quality sea water. “I’m not worried about that here,” she reassures me, as we try the raw, lettuce-like plant straight from the water. We descend the other side of the hill and follow the coastline to Great Porth, where we discover bushy clumps of sea spinach growing at the edge of the sandy beach. The leaves are beautifully fresh and glossy. Also known as sea beet, this is the wild ancestor of numerous cultivated plants including chard, sugar beet and beetroot. We pick the leaves, making sure not to pull out the plant’s roots. To do so would be illegal without the permission of the landowner, and none of us happens to have the Prince of Wales’s phone number on us: the Isles of Scilly have been part of the Duchy of Cornwall since the estate’s foundation in the 14th century. As we continue our two-and-a-half-hour walk around Bryher, we come across the delicately flavoured hairy bittercress and common nettles. We carefully pick just the four freshest and best leaves at the top of each stem with gloved hands. Lambert points out some ribwort plantain growing nearby and tells us that if we get stung by the nettles, rubbing the long thin, tongue-like leaves on our skin can help ease the pain, just like dock leaves; it works on bee stings and insect bites too. Getting into the wild food spirit, I take a bite out of the bitter, aromatic leaf, but it’s so furry I feel like a cat chewing on a mouse. Far more pleasurable is wild sorrel, which has a bright lemon sherbet taste from the oxalic acid contained in the plant. We’re warned that the spear-like shape, with two thin tails, one hanging down either side of the stem, makes

it easy to confuse with a poisonous plant commonly called lords and ladies. After working up an appetite, that night we get to enjoy not only some top-class cooking, but also the sense of satisfaction of having harvested our food, or at least some of it. Chef Richard Kearsley has transformed the nettles into a teacup of delicious creamy soup; the gutweed has been fried and served with lemon sole tempura that also comes with aïoli given a citric kick by the wild sorrel. Sea spinach and scurvy grass accompany a pancetta-wrapped fillet of beef and some of the bright yellow gorse flowers we’d also spotted on our walk have been dried and infused into a stunningly original crème brûlée. The ingredients we’ve collected might have been used in supporting roles by the chef, but for me, they are the star of the show, and it’s fascinating to see how much flavour and texture they contribute to each dish. The next morning we take the boat over to neighbouring Tresco to continue foraging. At barely two miles by one, the island is roughly one and half times the size of Bryher and has nearly twice the population, with 150 inhabitants. It’s also more developed, with an art gallery, a shop and a pub, and the landscape less untamed than Bryher. Yet there’s still plenty of free food to be found. With Lambert’s help we hunt down the naturalised Bermuda buttercup, not actually from Bermuda (it’s originally from South Africa) and not actually a buttercup but a member of the sorrel family. It will form part of a salad to be served that night along with the pennywort, sea sandwort and chickweed that we also pick. After collecting some threecorned leek, a type of wild garlic growing by the roadside, we meet up with horticulturist and editor of the Tresco Times Alasdair Moore for lunch at the Flying Boat Club, a restaurant built on the site of the Royal Navy Air Service base where seaplanes countered the German U-boat threat during the First World War. After our meal, Moore drives us in a golf buggy (the only motorised transport on the September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 31

‘The Isles of Scilly have been part of the Duchy of Cornwall since the estate’s foundation in the 14th century’

32 September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

Images: Getty Images; Corbis / Arabian Eye; Shutterstock; Supplied Text: Andy Lynes / The Independent / The Interview People

ISLES OF SCILLY | UK

island, apart from the odd farm vehicle) to Abbey Garden. Although we collect a few sprigs of mint from the herb garden for dinner, we’re not here to forage but to learn a bit about the extraordinary collection of tropical plants gathered by Victorian-era founder Augustus Smith from as far afield as Brazil, New Zealand, Burma and South Africa. Moore, who worked at Abbey Garden for five years, is a fascinating guide and explains that the maritime climate and south-westerly position means the garden can support an enormous variety of plants. He is particularly enthused by the colourful protea species he spent

time researching in South Africa and which includes a variety with soft, parrot feather-like petals. There’s just time to view the garden’s haunting collection of ships’ figureheads, salvaged from wrecks off the coast of the islands, before getting the boat back to Bryher before the tide turns. After four days of fascinating insight into the delicacies that so often lay at our feet, I’m compelled not to waste a minute of my journey back to the mainland. After a boat ride to the main island, St Mary’s, I head to Town Beach for a spot of last-minute foraging before my flight. I collect sea spinach as an

edible souvenir. Even though I’ve been on the islands only a few days and spent a matter of hours foraging, with Lambert’s guidance, I’ve been able to take a close, concentrated look at the landscape. Where I might otherwise have strolled blithely past, I’ve stopped, looked, smelled, touched and tasted. I’ve been amazed by the variety and intensity of flavours available free of charge to those with enough knowledge of what’s safe to take back to the kitchen or enjoy there and then on the spot. Any trip to the Isles of Scilly would be unforgettable, but this one will live on in my taste memory too. September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 33

34 September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

Beauty and the beest

BEAUTY AND THE BEEST | KENYA

The Serengeti-Mara migration is a sight for sore eyes come September, when the plains look positively polka-dotted with wildebeest â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Laura Binder shares the spectacleâ&#x20AC;Ś

September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 35

Opening page: Wildebeest migrate across the Mara plains. This page, top to bottom: Safari car immersed in the migration; a ‘bewilderment’ of wildebeest.

group of wildebeest is known as a ‘bewilderment’ – and, sat on the roof of a Land Cruiser on the long, grassy plains of the Masai Mara, it didn’t take me long to figure out why: the straggly-maned, horn-headed creatures don’t know whether they’re coming or going. We were in Kenya, my partner and I, with The Safari Collection; our luxe lodgings being one of just seven ‘tents’ at Sala’s Camp (though with beautifully big wooden beds, hot water and a brass-plated sink, it’s definitely ‘glamping’ at its best). Set quietly on the Masai Mara’s least-visited southern sector, the site placed us at the edge of the Sand River and with Tanzania in sight. The spectacle that sent us packing for this far-flung grassland was the annual wildebeest migration – one of the Seven New Wonders of the World – “you have to see it,” The Safari Collection urged. We didn’t need asking twice – after hopping aboard a propeller plane at Nairobi (a treat in itself) and gliding over the yellow-tinged plains, we soon found ourselves on the trail of the Serengeti-Mara migration, a jolly red-headed guide Adam at the wheel, a fuschia-clad Masai spotter, Marefu, at his side. (In the Mara, real men wear pink). “This time of year [August to October] some two million animals make their way into the Mara,” Adam told us excitedly – hundreds of thousands of which are made up by the liver-coloured wildebeest who soldier north from Tanzania in search of fresh grass. In the flesh, it makes for a mass of brown coats, hooves and horns broken up by the startling stripes of zebra (“a group of zebra is known as a ‘dazzle’,” Adam told us, clearly delighted by the term). And, with crocodiles around, these are no dumb asses: “At times they’ll lead the wildebeest right up to the river crossings – and then let them go across first.” Though our plane ride had given us a glimpse of numbers – each speck on the brown polka dot plains was a wildebeest – it didn’t prepare us for the real thing. After our first day spent idly roving the savannah to see only divided groups, a herd here and there and an unfortunate lone beest who had fallen asleep and lost its way (it’s a tiring business, this migrating), Adam took a change of tact. Catching the big herds’ movements (how we could only guess; smoke signals; animal calls; a Masai’s tip-off?), we were hot on their hooves. We rose in the small hours to make for the Burrangat Plains. “David Attenborough, eat your heart out,” I cried, stepping into the chilly African air, the blow of a 5.30am start softened by an indulgent ‘bush breakfast’. “Wow”, was the word that echoed through the Cruiser as we hit wildebeest gold. Even our Masai spotter had never seen numbers 36 September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

BEAUTY AND THE BEEST | KENYA

â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;One beest tentatively trod down the stony banks on delicate legs... and then the floodgates opened: hundreds, panicking, followed in canters and gallopsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 37

38 September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

BEAUTY AND THE BEEST | KENYA This page, clockwise from top left: A male lion on the lookout; A tent at Sala’s Camp; A lioness stalks her wildebeest prey; Zebra pause for a water break. Safari-goers follow a Cheetah.

like these. We drove gently between droves of bolting beests to a soundtrack of grunting (‘aahs’, ‘uhs’ and ‘ers’) and beyond, behind, in every direction, long orderly lines traipsed over the grasslands like marching ants. “The numbers are insane,” gushed Adam, his eyes on storks. “Fantastic rains mean the volume of grass and amount of food has been as good as it gets, the breeding strong, which is probably why there are so many – I haven’t seen anything like it!” Once amid the long-faced throngs (with rusty-maned lions and wide-eyed giraffes to compete with, they’re not about to win the Masai Mara Beauty Pageant), it was impossible to lose them. But to see the best bits of the migration, we had to think like a beest – which isn’t exactly tricky. Rule number one: make for the river. Rule number two: decide whether to cross or not. The Mara River would give you the biggest pause for thought: crocodiles lurk in wait; deep, churning waters must be mastered at breakneck speed; banks are steep enough to break your legs midstampede and, if you do make it to the other side, there may be a lion to contend with. When it’s over, one look back reveals carcasses drifting downstream in a pitiful blood bath. I’ve never been a fan of horror films, which is why I was relieved to sit atop our Land Cruiser and watch the beests contemplate a far less notorious crossing. “There are no crocodiles, go, go, go!” I urged; much to my spotter’s amusement. What can I say; their beardy faces were growing on me. But, if any beest could talk it would tell you they’re not the decisive kind. Just one has to make the first move for the rest to follow, which takes seconds… or minutes… or hours… or days. Forty minutes of dithering later, the instigator had changed his mind, backed away, hundreds following him. Game over. As I said, the term ‘bewilderment’ is spot on. Add a 30-second memory span and a less than high IQ (“sometimes they forget they’re a wildebeest and play at being a zebra for a day,” Adam told me) and you can see what’s taking them so long. “They will build up in numbers and in seconds there could be a rush,” predicted Adam as we took our chances further downstream, settling in by a thousand-thick congregation. And so it came: one tentatively trod down the stony banks, its delicate legs barely looking strong enough to hold its rippled torso, and then the floodgates opened: hundreds, panicking, followed in canters and gallops, crashing through water, leaping up banks, babies jumping from handover-mouth heights. It was well worth the wait. Moving on, exhilarated, I struck rule number three: stop when you see a lion (and perhaps it won’t see you). A three-deep, hundredslong line faced a salivating lion submerged in the grass some 10 feet in-front. The only way was forwards. A few bored beests cantered to the front to see what the hold-up was – and stopped. It was a standoff. That time they got lucky: the lion tired – her cover sprung – and sloped off, her fun ruined. “The lions are literally spoilt for choice,” explained Adam, “the migration is like all their Christmases come at once.” The evidence was everywhere: untouched carcasses dragged and discarded in pockets of grassland; killed for kicks and left aside by bloated lions too full for dessert. The supporting act – some would say the lead – in nature’s horror show, these big cats are a guaranteed sighting in the Mara – after all, where there are wildebeest, there are lions. One day we saw the September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 39

notoriously elusive leopard, so close we could see her spotted sides heaving in the sun; the next revealed a sleek cheetah playing endlessly (not to mention speedily) with four hairy cubs; on another we counted no fewer than 12 lions, among them a young cub with a chunk taken out of his back and a fiercely beautiful male with a gashed head – perhaps the wildebeest aren’t such an easy meal after all. We saw vultures pecking furiously at hollowed carcasses and lions licking their bloodied chops, but no kill – at least, not up close: a honeymooning couple returned to Sala’s Camp to share tales (and a graphic recording) of a feasting lioness and her cubs, complete with bone-crunching sound effects and an angelic-faced cub smeared in blood. “They’re growing on me too,” said Adam when I admitted the morbid curiosity I arrived with had been replaced with a relief at not witnessing a kill. Though, he told me, a lion will at least kill a beest by asphyxiation – hyenas eat their prey from the outside in. I shuddered. What a way to go. Thankfully, my blood-thirsty partner’s expectations were sedated by the Mara’s other marvels (it’s not all flesh-eating cats and grunting beests, you know). Our game drives were wonderfully secluded (in the least-visited part we found ourselves one of very few cars), taking us through open spaces that defied logic. This is a place where birds (some 4% of the world’s population, no less) come in near-neon hues, where mythical-sounding ‘Sausage Trees’ grow loofahs (yes, the kind you scrub your back with), where giraffes roam and warthogs zip through the grass with prehistoric presence; where huge crocodiles bathe near fat hippos (whose noises sound like an old man’s deep guttural laugh), and where the sun sets in a florescent pink hue or streams through the clouds like liquid gold. If there’s a more beautiful place on earth, I thought, I’m yet to find it. Happily for luxury-hungry globe trotters (guilty as charged), it’s a place where you can enjoy the great outdoors and then bask in creature comforts: our days and nights at Sala’s Camp were gloriously filled with candle-lit feasts on restaurant-worthy fare; breakfasts in the bush with wildlife in sight (Marefu does spectacular scrambled eggs); lunch on the Sand River’s banks watching wildebeest cross the water; and sundowners supped on a hill with Tanzania for a view. As for ‘glamping’, when the tent’s sides were rolled down, zipped up, and a hot water bottle mysteriously found its way into my bed, I slept like a baby – the rumble of lions’ roaring across the riverbed serving as a bizarrely soothing lullaby before morning broke and the next adventure began. By the time our safari came to an end (and I was contemplating the pros and cons of staying – I could manage a camp / my dog would get eaten – etc.) I saw the wildebeest in a new light. They may not be the most beautiful brood on the block but they sure are fighters: the older males took bold steps toward, not away from the Land Cruiser, the ladies were determined and doting, the babies’ playful bucking broncos, all bandy legs and bristled chins. And, as Adam warmed to them too, we pondered their rock star look: a mustard KISS-style stripe on some faces; an impressive platinum blonde fringe on another. Indeed, if there’s one Mara party not to be missed, it’s the wildebeests’ annual reunion. And, if the same high levels of nourishment and breeding takes place over the next 12 months, next year’s Mohican-maned gathering could be bigger than ever. 40 September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

Images: Corbis / Arabian Eye; The Safari Collection

BEAUTY AND THE BEEST | KENYA

This page, clockwise from top: Wildebeest during a Mara river crossing; A Sala’s Camp staff member sets the dining table; Masai giraffe; The main ‘mess’ tent at Sala’s Camp; A Masai guide.

September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 41

A melting pot of romance and relaxation Come. Behold stunning views of the Indian Oceanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s endless azure, listen to birdsong amidst lush green tropical gardens, and sample from the melting pot of multi-cultural Mauritian cuisine. A vibrant world of romance and exotic experiences awaits you at Angsana Balaclava. Seated on the scenic northwest coast of Mauritius, and nestled in the Baie aux Tortues, Angsana Balaclava is a vivid illustration of an idyllic island getaway. This luxury 5-star resort is a 55-minute car ride from Plaisance International Airport and a short 15-minute drive away from the capital city of Port Louis.

For more information please contact: Angsana Balaclava: +230 210 7608 or email balaclava@angsana.com Turtle Bay, Balaclava, Republic of Mauritius

KWT PROMOTION

Magical Mauritius

Paradise calling? KWT shows you how to get the most out of your island getaway September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 43

Where to stay

Island life never looked better than in these world-class suites and over-the-water villas. Here’s where to check in to the cream of the isle…

Those with a penchant for One&Only properties can’t fail to fall for the beachside prowess of The One&Only Le St Géran, Mauritius (lesaintgeran.oneandonlyresorts.com). Set on a private stretch of powder-white peninsula, you’ll find it shaded by swaying coconut palms. To be even closer to the azure sea, our advice is to check into one of its Ocean Suites, which literally lead you out toward the waves. While its setting is undoubtedly memorable, the experiences on offer are unforgettable too – private beach dinners at sunset, watersports and rounds on a nine-hole Gary Player links course among them. For yet more helpings of luxury, Sun Resorts’ hotels (it has no fewer than five in Mauritius) are well worth a look. Le Tousserok 44 September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

(letouessrokresort.com) is a case in point: its accommodations (rooms, suites and villas) stretch across an idyllic beach and every resident is privy to a butler 24/7 – so you won’t have to lift a finger. If you do feel like maneuvering, though, spa-junkies should make straight for Givenchy Spa (it’s world-class), while sportier sorts will love the Bernard Langer-designed golf course. The Four Seasons Resort Mauritus at Anahita (fourseasons.com/ mauritius) is another one for luxury-seeking jet setters – you’ll find only villas here, each of which comes complete with a private terrace and plunge pool and an outdoor bathroom with vistas good enough to make your heart skip a beat. Though you may feel loathe to leave,

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the hotel’s very own private island, Ile aux Chats, is well worth the effort of popping offshore. Another of the island’s true gems is the colonial-style Heritage Le Telfair (heritageletelfair.mu). It’s rare in that it manages to marry upscale luxury with a down-to-earth vibe that makes for impeccable service and a holiday to remember. Dining options here are plentiful and standards of cusine are never shy of excellent, particulary should you choose to eat at the uniquely brilliant Le Château de Bel Ombre, a charming and characterful 19th-century manor house which looks out to the mountains and ocean beyond. This is also a hotel that your kids will love – the Timomo & Friends kids’ club opens at breakfast and lays

on myriad fun activities during the day. What’s more, it stays open till 11.30pm for parents wishing to enjoy dinner in peace. A great kids’ club, Planet Trekkers, can be found too at The InterContinental Mauritius Resort Balaclava Fort (ichotelsgroup.com) which occupies a prime position aside the beautiful Bay of Balaclava in the north of the island, just 15 minutes from the lively (by Mauritian standards at least) town of Grand Baie. If it’s just the two of you jetting off (or if you’re seeking a honeymoon hotspot), Angsana Balaclava (angsana.com), set on the delightfully-named Turtle Bay, dedicates itself to the art of romance. Even an arm-in-arm stroll to your room is a pleasure – you’ll meander September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 45

Opening page: Aerial view of Mauritius. Previous left-hand page, clockwise from top left: Angsana Balaclava private dining; A bedroom at the Four Seasons Resort Mauritus at Anahita; The Oberoi Mauritius Royal Villa suite. Previous right-hand page: One&Only Le Saint Geran. This page from top: LUX* Belle Mare architecture and honeymoon suite; Le Touessrok suite lounge.

through pretty pathways with the sweet scent of frangipanis filling your nostrils. But it doesn’t stop there – twosomes can take advantage of couples’ treatments at the spa, indulge in in-room dining, head out to slurp seafood at the hotel’s Passion Grill, or have dinner under the stars on the beach or jetty. Over on the West Coast, The Oberoi Mauritius (oberoihotels.com) is similarly set up for seclusion. Everywhere you look is an opportunity to kick back: hammocks sway by the pool, white beaches are perfect for sun-drenched days, marble bath tubs peer over private gardens, and the spa is primed for al fresco treatments. And if you’re feeling peckish, stop by the On the Rocks restaurant where you can savour light bites while drinking-in the rippling Indian Ocean. For a funkier alternative to the island’s chic hotels, LUX* Belle Mare (luxislandresorts.com) offers vibrancy in abundance. Its thatched villas are full of island charm and sea-blue accents, while affording those classic Mauritian beach views. Poolside you’ll find fun features like ‘ici vendors’ who serve up low-fat ice cream bulging with fresh fruits. And if sunbathing isn’t your thing there’s diving and beach volleyball to dabble in – or hop aboard a bike and pedal your way to the colourful local markets. Finally, whether this is your first trip to Mauritius or not, sneak a peek at the new kid on the block, The St. Regis Mauritius Resort (stregismauritius.com). Opening in November, 2012, it’s set to blend first-rate style and staff (colonial-inspired rooms and the signature St. Regis butler service to name but two features), with beachbased bliss: think dolphin cruises, sunset mocktails and kite surfing. Just make for Le Morne Beach and dip into its numerous splendours… 46 September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

‘LUX* Belle Mare’s thatched villas are full of island charm and sea-blue accents, while affording those classic Mauritian beach views’

What to see

KWT PROMOTION

It may only be small, but Mauritius is perfectly-formed – from psychadelic sands to candy-pink pigeons, you’ll find a natural wonder around every corner...

It’s impossible to venture to Mauritius without ending up on a heavenly palmfringed beach – but you won’t find us complaining. With 330km of white sandy shores to its name, this island is a haven for sun worshippers – and few sights are more spectacular than the sunset from the northwest coast. Venture inland, however, to witness landscapes straight out of Jurassic Park, with a weird and wonderful population of wildlife to match. Black River Gorges National Park – the only protected inland area on the island – is a veritable playground of indigenous flora and fauna. Visit from now until January for a flowering season like no other: over 300 species of plants burst into life, transforming the thick forest into a dazzling vision of blooms of every hue. The long-extinct dodos may no longer roam the wild expanse, but the island’s birdlife population remains one of the world’s brightest: look out for spotty Mauritius kestrels, lime-green echo

parakeets, and the growing numbers of rare pink pigeons. Don your trainers and head off in search of Les Sept Cascades, a series of seven waterfalls deep in the parkland. You’ll find them at the end of a number of well-marked hiking trails (they’re suitable for beginners, but a guide is recommended) – bring a picnic for an al fresco lunch to remember. Rochester Falls in the south of the island are also worth an afternoon’s exploring: the angular black lava cliffs have been eroded by centuries of cascades, and the rocky pools are home to a plethora of freshwater fish and marine plants. The site is accessible by road, too, so you won’t have to dodge through the undergrowth; the sugarcane plantations along the way offer a glimpse of the island’s main livelihood. Mauritius’s wildlife comes in every hue imaginable, and so does the landscape: the eerie Seven Coloured Earths area is a natural spectacle on the Chamarel plain in the south September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 47

Previous right-hand page: Panoramic view of Charamel waterfalls; Echo Parakeet. This page, clockwise from top: Flic en Flac beach; Port Louis market; Pamplemousses Botanical Garden. Opposite page, top to bottom: The island is home to myriad golf resorts; Kitesurfing along the coast.

west of the island. The desert-like landscape has to be seen to be believed: a rainbow of red, brown, violet, green, blue, purple and yellow sands ripple the dunes. It’s thought that the psychadelic effect is caused by the volcanic activity that formed Mauritius, but the site is steeped in plenty of myth and legend too. If you don’t fancy leaving civilisation very far behind, the Pamplemousses Botanical Garden near Port Louis is the place to explore the island’s flora and fauna in comfort. The 37-hectare site (named after the grapefruit trees that dot the local hills) is famed for its giant water lilies, but you’ll also find a perfumed array of spice trees and over 80 varieties of palm – the perfect respite from that hot African sun. 48 September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

‘The Pamplemousses Botanical Garden is famed for its giant water lilies, but you’ll also find a perfumed array of spice trees and over 80 varieties of palm’ Of course, with all that unspoilt coastline it’d be churlish not to venture into the crystal-clear depths. With such a wealth of riches beneath the surface, it’s no wonder you’ll find scuba diving and snorkelling centres in almost every beach-side town. Numerous coral reefs are just a 20-30 minute boat ride away, but choose your operator carefully: irresponsible tourism is gradually eroding the sites. For an underwater experience that’s easy on your conscience, head to Blue Bay Marine

Park on the south east of the island: the reef is protected by the Ministry of Environment, and all non-environmentally-friendly activity is banned. Over 30 coral species and 70 types of fish call the area home, making the dive sites some of Mauritius’s most spectacular. If you’re not a water baby, fear not: take to sea on a glass-bottom boat or take a leisurely road trip along the coast road from Souillac to Le Morne – you’ll be in very good company, as it’s the locals’ favourite Sunday drive too.

KWT PROMOTION

What to do

Whether you’re searching for world-class golfing greens with views to match or remains of the ill-fated dodo, Mauritius has an adventure for everybody

You’ll no doubt find the island’s capital, Port Louis, your first port of call. Resist the temptation to head straight to the beach, though – a day or two spent in Mauritius’s trading hub offers an insight into island life that few visitors stop to explore. Take in the city from the Mary Queen of Peace Park – it boasts view all the way down to the coast, but for an even wider vista take to the slopes of Signal Mountain, or the Citadel (built by the British to spy potential invaders) atop Petite Montagne. You’re probably itching to witness the island’s wild population first-hand, but before you head off into the bush take a trip to the Natural History Museum. Here, you’ll find one of Mauritius’s most famed natives, the dodo. Although it was hunted to extinction over 300 years ago (just 80 years after its discovery by the British), the flightless bird remains an icon. You’ll find a life-size interpretation in the small but charming museum, as well as a skeleton and dusty stuffed examples of the island’s other indigenous specimens. Culture vultures should plan their trips to coincide with Mauritius’s festival season – handily, it runs from now until the end of the year. Opera Mauritius (operamauritius.com), a programme of opera classics performed by the island’s finest maestros, starts this month at venues all over the island. Mauritius Festival International Kreol (festivalkreol.co.uk) is an annual celebration of all-things Mauritanian – every December, dancers, singers and performance floats take to the streets. After investigating the city, there’s no better way to rest tired legs than a dip in the deep blue sea – and there’s no shortage of ways to take to the waves from the island. Seafarers will want to hop on board a catamaran to explore the reefs; you’ll find a plethora of operators, but Sunchaser (sunchaseryachting.com) and Blue Water Yachting (bluewateryachting.com) are good places to start. There are snorkelling opportunities aplenty – with waters as clear and bustling with life as these, you’ll be captivated – and if you’re thinking of taking

the plunge into scuba, there are few more spectacular places than this. Coral Diving (coraldiving.com) is a PADIresistered centre that offers everything from introductory dives to advanced courses, as well as wreck trips and night dives. The Bay of Tamarin, famed for its populous pods of dolphins, is home to Tamarin Ocean Pro Diving (tamarinoceanpro.com). The flippered residents are often too shy to entertain visiting divers, but that’s not to say you won’t spot them from the launch boats (don’t forget your binoculars). Eco-conscious travellers should head to Blue Bay Marine Park, a coastal area that’s pioneering sustainable tourism on the island. From here, you can dive and snorkel the fiercely-protected reefs – and when you’re not scanning the horizon for dolphins, point September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 49

‘Eco-conscious travellers should head to Blue Bay Marine Park, from which you can dive and snorkel the island’s fiercely-protected reefs’ those binoculars to the skies: the park is home to vibrant flocks of indigenous birds. If you’ve left your sea legs at home, set aside an afternoon for Mauritius Aquarium – found in the small city of Pointe aux Piments, its residents are from all corners of the Indian Ocean (there’s everything from clownfish to reef sharks), so you can get to know the locals without getting your feet wet. Inland Mauritius has long captivated naturalists too, and the private reserve of Domaine du Chasseur is the perfect place to get acquainted. Covering a 1,000-hectare area, the park is a verdent array of sugarcane fields, craggy mountains and wild coastline – and you can explore it all on the quad bike, cycling and walking trails that thread through the area. Among the eucalyptus and palm forests you’ll find monkeys, kestrels (which are slowly being brought back from extinction) and deer – the latter of which is 50 September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

so populous that the park authorities run hunting trips to keep numbers down. Don’t fancy stalking your dinner? Gentile travellers can tuck into hearty game fare at the resident restaurant. Golfers will be spoiled for choice on the island’s greens; five-star courses are scattered wherever you head. jump in at the deep end at Le Touessrok Golf Course (letouessrokresort. com), a notoriously tough set of holes designed by two-times US Masters champion and Ryder Cup top bod Bernhard Langer. The course commands its own island – which is only accessible by helicopter or boat – but you’ll be in excellent company: even Nelson Mandela has given the greens a go. Tamarina Golf, Spa and Beach Club (tamarina.mu) is another unmissable challenge: tucked away in the shadows of Mount Rempart, you’ll find everything from pampas grass to monkeys on the fairways.

This page, top to bottom: Diving the colourful reefs; Sailing on the tranquil waters. Opposite page, clockwise from top left: A tropical Mauritian dessert; Beau Champ at the Four Seasons Resort Mauritius; Resident chef at Le Touessrok.

Where to eat

KWT PROMOTION

For a little island, Mauritius sure has a lot on its plate – here’s a taste of the isle’s first-rate eateries and the dishes sure to get your mouth watering…

Gourmands are in for a treat: Mauritian food is a winning hotchpotch of French, Indian, Chinese and Creole that merges spices and tropical flavours to lip-smacking effect. Seafood lovers especially will be spoilt for choice: with the turquoise Indian Ocean in sight, it’s no surprise that Mauritian hotels bring world-class seafood from ocean to plate. (Think grilled octopus, fat pink prawns, not to mention plump lobster, to name a few.) If you want to sink your teeth into more of a local delicacy, though, look out for the likes of cari cerfs (a rich curry of venison, lilva beans and stacks of tomatoes) and try too the rougaille – a Mauritian national dish. Fish-lovers should order the saltfish variety; a heady mix of white fish, yet more tomatoes and herbs with generous helpings of pickle and dal on the side. With such luxe surrounds you may feel inclined to eat in your hotel every night – but if you do venture out to another restaurant, make sure to call ahead and reserve a table and put your name on the security gate – precedence is always given to in-house guests so it’s well worth the forward planning. If the Indian element of Mauritian cuisine appeals, make straight for Rasoi by Vineet (+230 401 1888) at One&Only Le Saint Géran. Here, Michelin-starred chef Vineet Bhatia has worked wonders in the kitchens with constantlyevolving tasting menus that never fail to delight diners. September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 51

This page: Chefs at Rasoi by Veneet, One& Only Le Saint Geran, Mauritius.

If star-studded kitchens are important to you, Blue Ginger (+230 204 6800) at Trou aux Biches Resort & Spa is well worth seeking out during your stay – its animated chefs put on a real show as they whisk up first-rate Thai cuisine. And with a view of torch-lit pools just outside the window, you’ll be spoilt for choice when it comes to both the views and the food. If it’s simply a good old fashioned feed you’re after, the relaxed beachy environs of Veranda Pointe aux Biches (+230 266 97 00) will serve you well: a national buffet is on display at Senses Restaurant, while the Sandy Lane Grill offers a sumptuous selection of seafood, not to mention meats aplenty. Elsewhere, Le Meridien Ile Maurice’s beachside La Faya (+230 04 3333) enables you to tuck into Mauritian bites while drinking-in the

52 September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

surrounding cotton-white sands – and if you’ve had your fill of Mauritian food, it serves up some delicious contemporary Mediterranean fare too. For al fresco dining of a slightly different ilk, the Beau Champ restaurant (+230 402 3100) at Four Seasons Resort Mauritius at Anahita will seat you by a lit lagoon, where you’ll find yourself virtually hovering overtop still, inky blue waters while you raise each delightful forkful to your mouth. And for fussy families who just cannot make up their minds, Le Touessrok’s Three-Nine-Eight (+230 402 7400) should satisfy every kind of appetite: set across three floors it serves up Thai, Indian, Spanish, French, Middle Eastern, Italian, Mauritian and Chinese fare – oh and food from the rotisserie. That should do it.

Images: Getty Images; Corbis / Arabian Eye; Shutterstock; Supplied

‘Michelin-starred chef Vineet Bhatia has worked wonders in the kitchens of Rasoi by Vineet with constantly-evolving tasting menus that never fail to delight diners’

Be the first to discover Dubaiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s only 4-star beachfront family hotel.

www.oceanviewthewalk.com

City of Ghosts Berlin is a grey city full of history â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and, as Adriaane Pielou discovered, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no better way to dip into its past than by visiting its excellent museums

54 September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

CITY OF GHOSTS | GERMANY

usk is falling and it’s not even 5pm. Perfect. Half an hour after checking in to my hotel on Unter den Linden, I am back in the gleaming marble lobby, happily buttoning my coat. Bleak, chilly, foggy weather is just right for Berlin, if, like me, you cannot get enough of the Cold War, Second World War and Weimar Republic – albeit from a very safe distance. This is a grey, unbeautiful city crammed with history and ghosts, and the fresh chill of autumn provides an atmospheric backdrop for dipping in and out of the extraordinarily good museums exploring its past, and warming up with coffee and cake in between. Outside the hotel, I spy the Brandenburg Gate and Norman Foster’s glittering Reichstag dome visible at one

end of the broad boulevard, the cathedral and the tall television tower at the other. I cross the street to Berlin Story, the world’s only bookshop stocking solely books about a single city. The joy: 10,000 books about Berlin, many in English. It’s hard to decide where to browse first – the stacks of guides or the shelves devoted to each period of the city’s tumultuous history. Germany’s formation in 1871; the First World War; the Twenties’ Weimar Republic; the rise of Nazism; the Second World War; the Cold War; the fall of the Wall in 1989; reunification... each section is crammed with eyewitness accounts, academic reports, novels, diaries, biographies and books of photographs. I run my fingers longingly over Christopher Isherwood’s Goodbye to September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 55

Opening page: View of Brandenburg Gate from Pariser Platz. This page, clockwise from top: Nikolai quarter; Cafe tables in Hackescher Hofe. Opposite page, from top: Neue Wache, World War II memorial; German Historical Museum.

Berlin, a book about his colourful life in the city during the Thirties, which inspired the film Cabaret, and add it to my pile, only to abandon it at the checkout. “Don’t worry – we mail to anywhere in the world,” says the assistant reassuringly. Next door, in the old Einstein café, relishing the candlelit warmth, I open the first of my three new guidebooks (a triumph of luggage-minded prudence over temptation), and wonder how many museum visits one can cram into a two-night stay. A lot of the most interesting are within walking distance of where I am, in Mitte, in the former East Berlin, but there are several farther afield, including one based in the old Stasi headquarters, on the city’s eastern edge, and the Bauhaus museum, in the former West Berlin. No time to waste, then. Soon after six, I am pushing open the heavy wooden doors of Clärchens Ballhaus, in the heart of Mitte. This is not a museum, but a museumpiece. The city used to be full of dance halls, and this, built in 1913, is the last that remains. In the shabby little lobby, the retired-bouncer type reading the paper in the dark, wooden coat-check booth looks like a George Grosz sketch. I stand at the threshold and drink in the scene. Whiteaproned waiters tidy chairs at the long tables flanking the scuffed dance floor and musicians drift in to set up on the little stage. It’s hard not to turn the clock back 75 years and see swastika-wearing louts sprawling at the tables, but the only guests now are a group of tourists eating traditional German snacks. Ignored by the waiters, clearly used to sightseers, I stay a few minutes before setting out into the night. Around the corner, then another, and across a cobbled street, I find the Hackesche Höfe complex. A series of Jugendstil (Art Nouveau) apartment blocks linked by eight courtyards, it contains some of the most fashionable shops, bars and cafés in Mitte, as well as a cinema, and, on the corner, the Hackescher Hof, an elegant wood-floored restaurant. Dense, chewy bread and salty butter, seafood linguini, a slice of tart and coffee come to just under £15. Fortunately it is Thursday – late opening night at the museums (they mostly close on Mondays) – and the next stop on my list will be open until 10pm. Guided by the television tower, I make my way along streets dotted with little design shops, and, back on Unter den Linden, to the German Historical Museum. With exhibits explained in 56 September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

CITY OF GHOSTS | BERLIN

English as well as German, it is utterly absorbing. I spend most of my time in the section devoted to Berlin during the Twenties, and have to speed-walk though the Cold War galleries, before being snapped at to leave by a weary guard. The walk back to my hotel along Unter den Linden takes me past the Humboldt-Box – a hideous temporary glass centre offering information about the rebuilding of the city centre – and Neue Wache, the national war memorial. Housed within the neoclassical Prussian, former royal guard house, this is a silent shriek, empty but for the figure of a mother grieving over the corpse of her dead son, moonlight slanting on her from the open roof. Is Berlin the most engrossing city in Europe? By the following evening, I can’t think of anywhere else – literally, in the world – that I want to come back to sooner. First, I’m back at the German Historical Museum for an hour, then to our own David Chipperfield’s brilliant barebrick restoration of the Neues museum (ancient art), one of the five on the nearby Museum Island, then on to the Reichstag’s viewing platform, then displays of everyday life in East Germany at the DDR museum, and, finally, going down into the U-Bahn system to get to the Story of Berlin museum. Each visit has been pure pleasure. September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 57

This page, clockwise from top left: Bauhaus Archive and Museum; Jugendstil Tilework at Hackesche Hoefe; Inside the Reichstag Dome; Alexanderplatz and the Weltzeituhr (world clock).

‘Clärchens Ballhaus… is not a museum, but a museum-piece’

58 September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

Images: Corbis / Arabian Eye; Supplied Text: Adriaane Pielou / The Daily Telegraph / The Interview People

CITY OF GHOSTS | GERMANY

Plans to find a good café have been abandoned as those in the museums are fine. But Anna Blume, Bar Gagarin, the original Café Einstein on Kurfürstenstrasse and Café Literaturhaus are all recommended by Henrik Tidefjaerd, the ‘city lifestyle’ guide I meet for tea as the rain pours. “Everyone talks about the crazy creativity in Berlin – and it’s true. Young people are moving here from all over the world because rents are fantastically low, and great cafés – and clubs, galleries and fashion stores – open literally every week,” says Henrik. “But if you have an interest in 20th-century history, as I do, there really is nowhere like it. “To walk through bunkers where Berliners sheltered from bombing during the war, to see Hitler’s own bunker, to stand in the room in Wannsee where the Germans discussed the Final Solution – those really are some incredible experiences.” Henrik is Swedish, but has lived in Berlin for the past 12 years and set up his own guide service, Berlinagenten. “And despite all my years here I have not seen all there is to see.” One definitely can’t see all of Berlin in two nights and three days, and I have to forget the Stasi museum and several others. But public transport is extremely efficient, so there’s no time wasted getting from A to B. There are short cuts, too. The 100 bus from Unter den Linden goes past many key sights; book a table for lunch at the Dachgarten restaurant on top of the Reichstag to avoid the long queue and gain direct access to Foster’s dome and views across the city. Even getting lost brings benefits. On my last morning, I get out at the wrong stop en route to the Unterwelten (Underworld) experience, a tour of some of the city’s infamous bunkers. But even here, at the Nordbahnhof S-Bahn station, I discover a fascinating exhibition dedicated to photographs of “ghost stations”. During the Cold War, Berlin was walled up under as well as over ground, and after 1961 certain stations – including this one, had tunnels bricked up so that East Berliners couldn’t escape into the West. I arrive at the booking office for the tour in English with just minutes to spare. One of the engineers responsible for excavating the bunkers – first opened to visitors in 2005 – leads the group, taking us through a series of concrete structures created during the digging of the U-Bahn system. It has become one of the most popular tours in the city, but lasts longer than I’d expected. I rush back to my hotel – having switched to the fabulous Grand Hyatt in Potsdamer Platz for my second night – to check out. “You should come back next summer – then you can sail a boat on one of our many lakes,” says the receptionist, making a sad face at the drizzle. Summer? Is she kidding? I want to come back again this winter. September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 59

CONCIERGE | OPENER

CONCIERGE

BANGKOK | MUSCAT | BELFAST | SOUTH AFRICA

THE 30-SECOND CONCIERGE

MR ALEX WILLATS, DUSIT THANI BANGKOK

For a bustling city break, few capitals beat Thailand’s non-stop action – and this hotel hotspot will place you right in the thick of things, as its manager tells KWT... If you’re after luxury rather than budget... our Suite Dreams package includes luxury accommodation in an Executive Suite with full buffet breakfast and complimentary mini bar. The journey continues with complimentary Dusit Club privileges – think personal butler service, morning and afternoon tea, evening canapés, drinks and more. It’s easy to experience the city... our hotel is located right in its heart, so you can enjoy the night market and Lumpini Boxing. Bangkok’s other top sites are minutes away: to the north is a popular shopping district and Jim Thompson’s House showcasing Thai-style architecture. To the south are the majestic sites of the Chao Phraya River and east you can discover Thai history at the famous Grand Palace and Emerald Buddha complex.

You can escape the city hubbub if you wish... at our Devarana Spa: an oasis of tranquility with a still water pond, natural light and vibrant colours. All treatment rooms provide beauty, comfort and privacy and double rooms are also available for those who wish to share their experience. Alternatively, make for our Lobby Lounge (it has amazing views of Benjarong Terrace, a tropical garden with a waterfall) and enjoy a quiet drink. Or, if you prefer to be outdoors, try your hand at golf at our golf driving range on the rooftop. A Bangkok travel tip... is to avoid the Thailand traffic by using the efficient sky train and underground rail systems located on the hotel’s door step. They’ll take you almost anywhere, leaving you more time for sightseeing. September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 61

VISIT

BELFAST

The much-maligned capital of Northern Ireland has a new spring in its step, discovers Hazel Plush

hen the world marked the 100th anniversary of Titanic’s demise earlier this year, all eyes were on Belfast. It was here that the ship was constructed, so the city opened the mammoth Titanic Belfast exhibition to commemorate its sinking – part of a vast investment in culture that has rejuvenated the area beyond recognition. Where a grey, turbulent city once lay, a forward-thinking cosmopolis now stands: Belfast is looking to the next generation, and it’s having a grand old time in the process. From museums to country castles, the strong sense of Irish heritage is everywhere – and there’s no finer way to join the craic than a knees-up with live music and entertainment at one of the city’s autumn festivals. Head to the greenbelt around Belfast and you’ll see how the emerald isle lives up to its name: you’ll find all creatures great and small just a quick jaunt away from the city’s cobbles. Head to the fairways of the nearby golf clubs and courses, and you’ll be following in the footsteps of greatness. Set aside a couple of days on the world-class greens and you’ll understand how the likes of local boys Darren Clarke, Graeme McDowell and Rory McIlroy have thrived on the greens – and with a view like that, who wants to leave?

62 September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

BELFAST | NORTHERN IRELAND

MUST-DOS 3

Images: Corbis / Arabian Eye; Shutterstock

Holywood

Blackstaff Stop

6 1 9 7 10

Ballyrushboy

Belfast 5

Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Belfast Castle in Cavehill; Saturday morning at St George’s Market; The Odyssey Arena and the Titanic Quarter; Golfing at the Royal Belfast Golf Club.

BOXOUT HEAD: BELFAST’S BEST… AUTUMN FESTIVALS BBC Proms in the Park (8 Sept) The world-famous BBC Proms festival heads to the capital for classical performances by a star-studded line-up of singers and musicians. Confirmed for this year is the Ulster Orchestra, opera diva Noah Stewart, and local-talentdone-good Foy Vance.

Ulster Bank Belfast Festival at Queen’s (19 Oct to 4 Nov) This year marks the 50th installment of this extravaganza of dance, music, film and theatre. Acts and events come from all over the world, as well as Belfast’s doorstep, making for lively evenings in venues throughout the city.

Culture Night (21 Sept) The city’s biggest arty event, Culture Night takes over the streets, museums and historic buildings with events for every age and taste. You’ll find performances, workshops, late-night openings and tours – and, better yet, it’s all for free.

Titanic Belfast (1) (titanicbelfast. com) marks the home of the ill-fated vessel; few people realise that she was engineered in Belfast docks, and this interactive experience is the place to learn more. See recreations of the ship’s fittings, hear tales of guests’ experiences on board, and discover the truth of Titanic’s untimely demise. Belfast Castle Estate (2) (belfastcity.gov.uk/belfastcastle) features a museum of life in Northern Ireland through the ages – fascinating viewing for history buffs and city breakers alike. Take a turn around the estate’s ornate landscaped gardens, then sample a traditional Sunday roast with all the trimmings in the Cellar Restaurant. The adjacent Cave Hill, Belfast’s highest point, is a picturesque spot from which to gaze upon the city’s landmarks. Belfast Zoological Gardens (3) (belfastzoo.co.uk) is home to over 1,000 animals from all over the world; here you can meet the likes of Barbary lions, Rothchild’s giraffes, Asian elephants and spider monkeys – as well as the tropical residents of the Rainforest House. Got green fingers? Witness the emerald isle’s weird and wonderful array of fauna in the 55-acre forest and gardens. The Royal Belfast Golf Club (4) (royalbelfast.com), the oldest club in Ireland, was founded in 1881. Today, the 18-hole course hosts national and international events galore, attracting big-name players from all over the world. The greens overlook Belfast Lough and the Antrim plateau – a fine backdrop when you’re teeing off. Barnett Demesne (5), on the city boundary, boasts a more natural slice of Ireland’s leafy landscape. The park features ecotrails and orienteering routes through the daffodil gardens, meadows and woodland – a fun day out if you’re craving the great outdoors. Settle down with a picnic among the colourful wildflowers, and see if you can spot the rabbits, rooks and rare red squirrels. The MAC (6) (themaclive.com) is Belfast’s newest

– and hottest – arts venue; here you’ll find everything from exhibitions by local artists to big name theatre companies and comics. Visiting soon? Look out for James Joyce’s Ulysses (30 October), contemporary dance from Junk Ensemble (23 October) and jazz piano by Bourne Davis Kane (25 November).

WHERE TO STAY The Merchant Hotel (7) (themerchanthotel.com) started life as the headquarters of Belfast’s Ulster Bank, but its chambers now hold an array of elegant suites and rooms, as well as a spa, jazz lounge, and critically-acclaimed restaurants. Sporting types will love the golf package, and there’s a Rolls Royce Phantom on hand to whisk you all over the city. Stormont Hotel (8) (hastingshotels. com) attracts all of the city’s movers and shakers: adjacent to Stormont Castle and the Parliament Buildings, it’s the place to spot plenty of famous faces. When you’re not indulging in the hotel’s iconic afternoon tea or nibbling on tapas at La Scala bistro, the main city sights are just a quick walk away.

WHERE TO EAT The Great Room (9) (+44 28 9023 4888) offers Irish dining at its most decadent: the interior is a sight to behold, with red velvet furnishings and gilded touches throughout – and the à la carte fare is just as spectacular. Think locally-sourced organic lamb, poached scallops and loin of venison – this is farm-fresh soul food with a five-star twist. Deanes (10) (+44 28 9033 1134) is the creation of visionary chef Michael Dean, a chef renowned throughout the city for his outstanding cuisine and playful vision. Tuck into hearty dishes, or opt for the decadent Titanic Menu: inspired by the final supper served on board the ship, it features lobster broth, roast pigeon, and divine chocolate fondant.

September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 63

VISIT

MUSCAT

This ancient trading post is Oman’s crowning jewel – discover a hypnotic slice of old Arabia...

t may only be 50 minutes from the glitz of Dubai and Abu Dhabi, but Oman’s capital couldn’t feel further away. As he docked in the city’s port in the 16th century, Alfonso de Alburqueque remarked that Muscat was a ‘very elegant town with very fine houses’ – an observation that still rings true today. Minarets punctuate the city’s skyline, but there are no high-rise monoliths here; you’ll find souks in place of designer malls, and certainly no desert ski slopes. History and heritage take centre stage: from tiny exhibitions to the vast National History Museum, Omanis’ national pride is impossible to overlook, and the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque is truly magnificent. And for all its charm, Muscat still has ambition: the Royal Opera House Muscat, which opened just last year, has already placed the city on the cultural map, and an impressive crop of golf resorts and hotels is gradually blossoming. It’s a city that moves at its own pace, but don’t expect Muscat to remain untouched forever: take a look for yourself now, before the rest of the world catches on… 64 September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

MUST-DOS Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque (1) is a grand introduction to Muscat’s rich architectural offerings, and a fascinating cultural visit for Muslims and non-Muslims alike. Built by His Majesty Sultan Qaboos bin Said Al Said to mark the 30th year of his reign, the building’s ornate minarets, mosaics and vast central chandelier are truly breathtaking. Take a second to look down, too: the Persian carpet is the second largest in the world, and took 600 women over four years to weave. Muttrah Souk (2), on the Gulf-side corniche, is one of Oman’s oldest marketplaces and a prime spot to pick up an authentic Omani keepsake. Haggle for gold and silver jewellery, ornaments, spices, incense and khanjars (traditional daggers) – half the fun is getting lost in the maze of alleyways, and the other half is bartering with the pros. The Natural History Museum (3) offers an insight into Oman’s flora and fauna, and charts the country’s progress through the ages. Wander amongst fossils, skeletons (watch out for the whale!) and cultural artefacts,

MUSCAT | OMAN

come dinnertime you can take your pick from seven eateries. Al Bustan Palace (8) (ritzcarlton.com) is the perfect place to retire to after a day’s city wanderings. 40km from Muscat International Airport, the resort features a kilometre of private beach, five swimming pools and a sumptuous spa to boot.

and hear stories of lives spent seafaring and conquering – long before air con and malls changed the country forever. Ghalya’s Museum of Modern Art (4) (ghalyasmuseum. com) contains a series of artworks by local artists, but the jewel in its crown is the Old House: a group of ‘traditional style’ houses that showcase life in the mid twentieth century through the likes of fabric, jewellery and household items, and explain the customs and heritage of Oman. Muscat Hills Golf and Country Club (5) (muscathillsgolf. com), tucked away in the rugged terrain of the Al Hajar mountains, is just a five-minute drive from the airport – so it’d be rude not to pop in for a round or two before catching your flight home. The par-72, 18-hole course is the first in Oman to feature grass throughout, and the wadis and distant seascape make for a spectacular backdrop. Sign up for golf lessons at The Academy, or book a full day on the greens. Royal Opera House Muscat (6) (roh.org.om) boasts an impressive line-up of performances throughout the year and makes for a spectacular evening out. Since it opened in 2011, the venue has held everything from traditional Arabian dance recitals to national orchestras and operas from around the world. Highlights for the coming season include Arab musicians Ahmed Fathi and Safwan Bahlawan, Senegalese singer Youssou N’Dour (1 October), and Sūfī and Inshād dancing (20 October).

WHERE TO EAT Marjan (9) (+968 2464 1234) is a local favourite for authentic Indonesian fare. The restaurant opens this month after the summer break, so bag a table outside and feast on the likes of grilled fish in banana leaf and creamy coconut curry… The Restaurant (10) (+968 24 52 44 00) makes for a dramatic dining destination: watch international cuisine being rustled up in four open kitchens, catch live piano recitals, and eat under glittering chandeliers – Muscat’s dining scene doesn’t get much more spectacular than this.

MUSCAT’S BEST… ADVENTUROUS DAYTRIPS Nizwa Fort Just 90 minutes from the city centre you’ll find Nizwa’s ancient stronghold. After you’ve weaved past wadis and rugged mountainous plains, the imposing fort and oasis emerge from the desert.

WHERE TO STAY Al Bandar Hotel (7) (shangri-la.com), part of Shangri-La’s Barr Al Jissah Resort and Spa, is styled on Muscat’s old town: think elegant wind towers and ornate furnishings throughout. Each room has sea views, and

Eastern Hajar Mountians Embark on a 4x4 safari into this lonely region of peaks, and you’ll find a

Opposite page clockwise from bottom left: The tranquil city streets; 4x4 Desert safari; Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque; Interior of Mutrah Souk. This page: Al Bustan Palace.

surprisingly lush oasis. Paddle in natural pools and cool off in the shady date palm gardens; many Muscat hotels offer day trips here, with a guide and picnic lunch included.

Canyoning Wadi bani Auf, an hour’s drive from the Muscat, is home to the infamous snake canyon – and what better way to experience it than by scrambling over the gorge floor and chucking yourself down the waterfalls into the glassy clear pools below?

Images: Corbis / Arabian Eye; Shutterstock

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Al-Qurm Park Muscat Governorate

Madinat As Sultan Qaboos

Muscat

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September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 65

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PEAK TRAVEL

This month’s deals brought to you by Kanoo Travel and American Express Interlaken to Brienz. Pack your sense of adventure – this thrill-seeking itinerary takes you to the heart of Switzerland’s stunning landscape.

GOLDEN PASS TOUR

TOPS OF SWITZERLAND 5 days, 4 nights From $812 p/p Departing from the picturesque lake-side city of Interlaken, this short break takes you on a mountainous adventure through the Alps. First up, it’s Jungfraujoch, known among the locals as the ‘Top of Europe’ – comfort lovers fear not, though: you’ll reach the top by cable car. Then, you’ll travel in style by mountain railway, taking in the dramatic panoramas on the way to Luzern. From there, you’ll venture by train or boat to the majestic Mount Pilatus, also known as the Dragon Mountain. To reach the summit, you’ll take to the vertiginous cogwheel railway – the steepest in the world – for breathtaking views and the clearest of Alpine air. Travel is unaccompanied, so you’ll have plenty of time to explore at your own pace before returning to Luzern.

(in Interlaken) you’ll be immersed in spectacular scenery and fresh mountain air. You’ll venture to Schilthorn, a 3,000-metre peak where you’ll enjoy one of the most thrilling dinners of your life – the famous revolving Piz Gloria restaurant sits at the summit, famed for its appearance in the James Bond classic On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. From there, the action continues with a trip to the top of Mount Titlis (3,020 metres) and a boat cruise from

6 days, 5 nights From $914 p/p Spanning central Switzerland and Lake Geneva, the Golden Pass Panoramic Train is perfect for travellers who want to experience the Alps up-close: you’ll be treated to a showstopping view every time you look out of the window. First, though, kick off your trip in Luzern, from where you can explore three mountainous peaks by rail – venture to the peak of one at leisure, or set yourself a challenge to see the trio. Don’t take too long, though – the train to Interlaken awaits. From here, you can venture to Jungfraujoch, the ‘Top of Europe’, and peer from the cable car at the mountain villages below. The next day, take the train to Montreux, home of the famous jazz festival, where you can toast your explorations and experience a night in this lively Swiss settlement.

SWISS MOUNTAIN PEAKS 4 days, 3 nights From $690 p/p Adventurous travellers will love this high-altitude holiday through Switzerland – and right from the first morning

September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller 67

SUITE DREAMS

LEOPARD HILLS PRIVATE GAME RESERVE, SOUTH AFRICA

One of just eight suites in the 10,000-hectare private nature reserve, this glass-fronted abode looks out over the sprawling savannah where the Big Five roam. Life here is rustic, but ever-so chic: after all, there are few better places to game-watch than from the depths of that glassy plunge pool. Inside, you won’t find any new-fangled gadgetry – instead, think vast handmade beds, cosy safari-style touches, and a romantic bathroom (with sink-in tub) that shares that incredible view. Days here are spent exploring the great outdoors 68 September 2012 Kanoo World Traveller

– the private reserve forms part of the Kruger National Park – but if you don’t fancy leaving those sumptuous recliners, the in-room binoculars mean you can view your four-legged neighbours in comfort. For a luxurious twist, sample an in-suite signature spa treatment using natural products, or cool off in your own al fresco shower. Come nightfall, the balcony is perfect for gazing into the inky African sky, or wallowing in that pool to the sounds of a truly wild serenade. leopardhills.com