LONdON 101 all you need to know to enjoy england’s capital
hOteLs cuLture shOps sights restauraNts
kanoo world traveller
10
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Capital gains
As London gears up for the 2012 Olympics, huge new infrastructure projects are being put in place, hotels are being refurbished, countless new restaurants are being opened, and a world of new activities is being put on offer. The city’s ever-vibrant art and culture scene is also getting a shot in the arm, as new waves of plays, exhibitions, musicals and more are brought to life. In short, there’s no better time to pay a visit to England’s capital, before the sport-loving crowds descend next year… About this guide Our panel of experts has selected the 101 best things about London and placed them into simple-to-reference sections, making it easy for you to plan your perfect trip. Our recommendations range from mainstream essentials to more off-beat options, getting you straight to the heart of this action-packed city.
Contents 7
The Hotels – outstanding abodes, from the traditional to the modern.
13 The Shopping – quirky boutiques, designer brands and department store delights. 18 The Restaurants – celebrity chef creations and the best up-andcoming independent eateries. 24 The Culture – galleries, museums, theatres and the best spots for
Production in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in this publication.
opera and ballet. 29 The Sights – don’t leave town without ticking these must-sees
London
off your list.
Produced by HOT Media Publishing FZ LLC
London 101
3
oxford street HYDE PARk RIVER THAMES SOUTH BANK
KINGS ROAD
The Knowledge The need-to-know facts for getting to and around London. Getting There
most local rail services, too. Buses and black cabs
bmi British Midland International offers scheduled
– two iconic modes of London transport – are also
services to London Heathrow from Riyadh,
in plentiful supply throughout the city. If you want
Dammam and Jeddah, making it a simple city
to hire a car and drive around the city yourself,
to access. For ticketing information, visit your
you’ll find an endless number of rental firms at the
nearest Kanoo Travel or American Express Travel
airport. Just remember that people drive on the
outlet or log onto www.flybmi.com
left hand side of the road in the UK.
Transport
Money
It’s easy to get around London and all of the
The Pound Sterling is the official currency of the
major sights and attractions are very well
UK. Denominations of coins range from one pence
signposted. The London Underground, which is
to two pounds (100 pence make up one pound)
more commonly known as ‘The Tube’, is the most
and notes from five pounds to 50 pounds. At time
popular form of transport. It’s easy to use and
of press, US$1 was equivalent to 61 pence.
comprises 12 lines which can ferry you from the
Visas
heart of the city to its outer limits. Simply pick
Nationals of all GCC countries
up an Underground map on arrival into London
require a visa to enter the
Heathrow and consider buying an Oyster Card,
UK and can stay for
which is a cost-effective way of travelling without
a maximum of six
limit on not only the tube network but buses and
months.
4
London 101
31
What’s on while you’re there...
May
June
July
This month sees the start of the Open Air Theatre in Regents Park, a lovely place for al fresco entertainment in the long sunny evenings.
Make sure not to miss out on the exuberant Spitalfields Festival which features a brilliant programme of classical folk and pop music in a beautiful setting.
What could be more relaxingly British than watching the cricket on a summer’s day? This is the month to enjoy test matches at the Oval.
August
September
Get your fill of classical music, opera, jazz and pop at the Proms, which run throughout this month. It is a great chance to see some of the world’s best musicians in action.
Swing by the National Portrait Gallery to check out the contestants in the BP Portrait Awards, an annual artistic showdown.
November
December
If you’re here towards the beginning of the month, you can attend the grand switching-on ceremonies of Oxford Street and Regent Street’s beautiful festive lights.
February London Fashion Week comes to town, bringing designers and fashionistas from across the globe together to assess the action on the catwalks.
The middle of the month sees the Bankside Frost Fair come to the River Thames – this historic festival mixes great food with plenty of cultural events.
March The Oxford and Cambridge boat race draws huge crowds to the Riverside in West London, to see the old University enemies go head-to-head.
Market intelligence
October
Here’s a beautifully eccentric British event for you – the Hampstead Heath Conker Championships. Take part yourself or just watch the experts in action.
January
The highly prestigious London Art Fair sees dealers, collectors, artists and interested onlookers converge on the city for five days.
April Cinephiles will love the excitement of the East End film Festival which showcases up-and-coming UK directors who will screen both features and shorts.
London is filled with markets, selling everything from jewellery to vintage clothing and from flowers to gourmet foods. Almost every area has at least one – some of the best-known include Camden market (mainly tourist- and music-oriented), Broadway market (vintage clothing and gourmet food), Brick Lane market (retro furniture and handmade clothing), Spitalfields market (redesigned by Norman Foster and home to the great antiques).
London by numbers
1
The size in square miles of the actual City of London – most of the rest of the centre actually falls under ‘The City of Westminster’.
12
The number of littleknown rivers which flowed beneath the streets of London, including the Walbrook, the Fleet, and Stamford Brook.
32
The number of pods on the London Eye, each of which represents one of the London boroughs.
25,000
The number of black cabs currently plying the streets of London.
80,000
The number of umbrellas lost each year on the London Underground.
London 101
5
Define British Classic in the heart of Mayfair Rocco Forte’s Brown’s Hotel London This chic hotel personifies the refined sophistication of modern British luxury and offers the perfect home-away-from-home. Rocco Forte’s Brown’s Hotel is in the heart of Mayfair, boasting one of the most prestigious addresses in the city. The hotel is located only minutes away from the most upscale London shopping areas such as Bond and Regent Street. With outstanding personal service, spacious and elegant rooms and suites - ideal for large families - and its restaurant ‘HIX at the Albemarle’ celebrating art and cuisine, it offers all a most memorable London experience.
Albermarle Street, London, W1S 4BP Tel: 020 7493 6020 Fax: 020 7493 9381 E-mail: reservations.browns@roccofortecollection.com www.roccofortecollection.com
The Hotels Whether you want traditional and opulent or quirky and imaginative, London’s hotels are varied enough to please all manner of tastes. They do have one thing in common, though – the levels of quality and service they offer are simply world-beating... The Hilton Park Lane (www.hilton.co.uk) is located
(www.fourseasons.com). Its decor is outrageously
directly opposite Hyde Park, with its grand gardens,
lavish, and even hanging out for a coffee in the
boating lake and kilometres of cycling, jogging and
lobby area – with its sink-in art deco seating and its
strolling paths. This lovely modern hotel has more
live pianist – is a treat. There are some particularly
to offer than its central location however – starting
exciting touches here, including a glass-walled
with the Michelin-starred Galvin at Windows
rooftop spa where you can get incredible views
restaurant, which offers panoramic views over
with your expert rubdown. For a truly charming
the city. There is a first-class health club and spa
stay book a garden suite, which comes with a
too – don’t miss out on their trademark four hand
landscaped terrace overlooking a private garden, as
massage – and of course beautiful rooms.
well as a lounge fit for a king.
Nearby is the superb InterContinental Park Lane
When it comes to classic hotel names to conjure
(www.ichotelsgroup.com). This flagship hotel is
with, there are few more powerful than The
just across the road from Apsley house, the former
Dorchester (www.thedorchester.com) a grand spot
home of the Duke of Wellington, which is blessed
which has been one of the favourite hangouts of
with the coolest address in the city – “Number one,
the great and good for over 80 years. There are no
London.” The interiors are immaculately modern
fewer than seven separate food and drink outlets at
and the facilities are second to none. As with all
the Dorchester, the most exciting of which is Alain
Intercontinental properties, there is an emphasis
Ducasse’s London residence. We are also huge fans
on outstanding food and drink – the signature
of the ‘Spatisserie’, an informal place to enjoy a
restaurant, Theo Randall at the Intercontinental, is
light lunch, indulgent afternoon tea, or just-baked
a brilliantly sparky, contemporary Italian hotspot
pastry before or after your soothing spa session.
which mixes beautiful seasonal British ingredients
The suites are enormous here and each come
with Tuscan flair.
decked out with individual style – for a real treat
On the same prestigious strip as the Hilton and the Intercontinental is the Four Seasons Park Lane
book the famous Oliver Messel suite. Right alongside the Dorchester in the name
London 101
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Left: Claridge’s. Below: The Dorchester.
recognition stakes is The Ritz London (www.
the Savoy – the only decision you have to make is
theritzlondon.com). Like its Parisian counterpart,
whether to take a room with a river or a city view.
the Ritz prides itself on providing beautiful
Another property that sits by the banks of
experiences to its guests. The decor is ostentatious,
the mighty Thames is Plaza on the River (www.
vibrant and utterly gorgeous (you will feel like
plazaontheriver.com). This is the perfect venue if
a 19th-century aristocrat as you stride along the
you like to have your own space – Plaza specialises
gilded halls), and there is a dedicated valet service
in beautifully-made residences which have all the
on hand to meet your every need.
comfort of a hotel coupled with all the freedom
Joining the Dorchester and the Ritz in the
of your own home. The two bedroom suites are
London hotel Hall of Fame is Claridges (www.
brilliant for families and benefit from excellent, well-
Claridges.co.uk), an art deco wonder whose fame
equipped kitchens where you can cook for yourself
stretches back over a century. For a real thrill, book
if you tire of eating out.
one of the extraordinary new suites designed by the
Immaculate apartments are also the name of the
legendary Diane von Furstenberg. These beauties
game at Cheval Residences (www.chevalresidences.
come with all the print-based style you’d expect
com), which has properties across London,
from this queen of fashion.
including Hyde Park gate in Knightsbridge as well
An equally major name on the London hotel
as at Gloucester Park. All are decorated in a smart
scene is The Savoy (www.fairmont.com/savoy),
and welcoming style, designed to make you feel
which has been welcoming guests since 1889. It
immediately at home, and all are kitted out with
recently underwent a £100 million restoration,
absolutely everything you could need to hit the
which mixed the gorgeous Edwardian interiors with
ground running.
modern trimmings. Before heading to the Savoy
If you want the best of London and the English
Grill (where else?) for dinner, stop for a cold juice at
countryside all in one, look no further than
the American Bar, which is something of a London
London Syon Park (www.londonsyonpark.com),
institution. Everything is taken care of for you at
a marvellous development on the Sion house
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London 101
Clockwise from bottom left: Four Seasons; The Kipling Suite at Brown’s; Dukes Hotel; 51 Buckingham Gate. Opposite page from top: Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park Hotel; The Langham.
estate – home of the Duke of Northumberland –
and excellent private dining rooms. We love Brown’s
located seven miles outside the city centre. The
for its personal touches, including the quirky
place is absolutely dripping with history, and sits in
selection of books in each room, the superb English
wonderful 400-year-old grounds. The suites range
afternoon teas and the imaginative dishes at HIX at
from Junior to Presidential, but all have that classic
the Albermarle, the in-house restaurant.
feel of old-fashioned British elegance. This is the
Another small hotel with tons of personality is
most wonderful place to return to after a busy day
Dukes Hotel (www.dukeshotel.com). This boutique
in the heart of the capital – you’ll feel like a blue
spot in St James has over 100 years of experience,
blooded noble coming back to their country retreat.
and it shows. Rooms are sleek, modern and
For a more modern, more central stay, check out the London Marriott Hotel Grosvenor Square (www.Marriott.com) in Mayfair. Just a gentle
comfortable, with some fabulous old-fashioned twists in the furniture. Over in Mayfair is the beautifully conceived St
saunter from Oxford Circus, it is located in one of
James’s hotel and club (www.stjamesclubandhotel.
London’s most beautiful old squares. But it is not
co.uk). Originally a hangout for the aristocracy,
just the setting that delights – this hotel is also
St James’s boasts some of the very finest interior
home to Maze, a fabulous restaurant by Gordon
decoration in London. It is geared up both for
Ramsay, which also means that if you’re feeling too
business and for indulgence, with a great restaurant
lazy to go out, you can stay in your room and order
for entertaining in – Seven Park Place, which has a
Gordon Ramsay room service. Superb!
Michelin star and three AA rosettes – and superbly
There are some brilliant small hotels in the centre of London, and Brown’s (www.browns hotel.com) is
comfy, individually designed rooms. Just around the corner is The May Fair London
one of our very favourites. Part of the Rocco Forte
(www.theMayfairhotel.co.uk). A huge amount of
collection, Brown’s lies in the heart of Mayfair and
thought has gone into the guest amenities here,
offers individually decorated suites, a lovely spa,
from the gorgeous stand-alone granite baths to the
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London 101
imaginative artwork and the personal terraces with birds eye views of the city, no expense has been spared to make you feel relaxed and happy. For an exciting dinner without having to leave your hotel, check out new launch Quince, which serves up a mouthwatering Eastern Mediterranean menu. Meanwhile, for slick modern style and impeccable service, there are few better choices than the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park hotel (www. MandarinOriental.com/London). Not only is it home to London’s hottest table, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal (see the restaurants section for details), but it also specialises in the art of relaxation, with one of the best spas in the city. After your wonderfully unwinding treatments, be sure to spend some time in their astonishing amethyst crystal steam room… Situated in a grand old building, The Langham (www.London.Langhamhotels.co.uk) is located in the West End, mere minutes from the joys of Regent, Oxford and Bond Streets. They don’t have butlers here – they have ‘Langham service stylists’, who perform the same role and are also incredibly clued-up on the best things to do in the capital. When you finally manage to tear yourself away from your adorable hotel suite, your first port of call must be Roux at the Landau, the hotel restaurant which brings together Albert and Michel Roux, those two legends of French cuisine. Unmissable. Over in Westminster, 51 Buckingham Gate
bmi recommends...
(www.51-buckinghamgate.com) has both hotel and
London hotels have always taken the Full English
serviced suite accommodation. It’s just around the
Breakfast very seriously – but they are also branching
corner from Buckingham Palace – so it’s handy for
out and providing more imaginative, less calorific
those popping in for tea with the Queen.
alternatives in an attempt to gain an edge over the
Zesty, hypermodern ‘urban spa’ The Sanderson
competition. There are some superb hotel breakfasts
(www.sandersonlondon.com) has been designed by
on offer across the city. Some extraordinary options
Philippe Starck and built around a beautiful garden.
picked out in a recent survey by Londonhotelsinsight.
If you’re bored of classic London luxury, this is an
com include lobster club sandwiches At The Lancaster
eye-opening and exciting place to stay.
London (you can also enjoy honey made in their
Finally, one of our all-time favourites is the
rooftop hive); Haddock Monte Carlo at the Ritz
Stafford London by Kempinski (www.Kempinski.
London; grilled sourdough topped with barbecue
com). It has all the charm, style and elegance a
mushrooms and Gorgonzola at the Zetter Hotel; and
discerning traveller could want, plus imaginative
miso soup at the Langham.
ideas that make it stand out from the crowd. London 101
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Regional SaleS & MaR ke t i n g of f i ce – Me & g cc tel: 00971 2 499561 3 e Mai l : t h e May f ai Rl o n d on@i nS i ghtS M c .c oM theMayfaiRhot e l .co .uk Regional SaleS & MaR ke t i n g of f i ce – Me & g cc tel: 00971 2 499561 3 e Mai l : t h e May f ai Rl o n d on@i nS i ghtS M c .c oM theMayfaiRhot e l .co .uk
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The Shopping London is one of the greatest shopping centres on earth, as much for the sheer diversity of choice as for the quality. If you try to cover all of the major shopping districts you’ll be exhausted in no time – so pick one store or area and shop til you drop from there... The one and a half mile long Oxford Street is the
Regent Street (also home to world famous toy store
heart of London’s shopping experience. Along this
Hamleys), is Liberty, which is regularly voted the
lengthy boulevard you will find flagship stores of
best place to shop in the city. Housed in a timber-
designer and high-street brands alike, running from
clad Tudor building, it is – along with Harrods
Marble Arch at one end to Tottenham Court Road at
in Knightsbridge – London’s most upmarket
the other. You could happily spend a couple of days
department store. The lovely thing about Liberty is
working your way through all the options – and
that you won’t find most of their products on sale
many people do exactly that. Particular highlights
elsewhere – they source everything uniquely, which
include the enormous John Lewis store, the gigantic
means you can pick up a real one-off item. A visit
Top Shop, Nike Town, expansive Debenhams, House
to Harrods, meanwhie, remains obligatory. And if
of Fraser, Zara, Primark and Gap.
you don’t want to mingle with the crowds, try the
One store that deserves particular mention
store’s personal shopping service, By Appointment,
is Selfridge’s, a vast, multi-layered temple of
where a team of in-the-know personal consultants
commercialism, where the service is personal and
will guide both men and women towards the most
the products feel like they’ve been picked out
extravagant of purchases in-store and out.
just for you by a particularly stylish friend. Major
If you prefer working your way round a series
standouts include 7 For All Mankind, Alexander
of small spots rather than hitting the big flagships
McQueen, Diane von Furstenberg, J Brand, Joseph,
and department stores, you’ll love shopping in
Juicy Couture, Karen Millen and Marc by Marc
Covent Garden. Centred around a large square
Jacobs. Men, meanwhile, will love the array of great
lined with cool and offbeta shops, Covent Garden
chaps’ boutiques – set them loose on Alexander
has a market at its centre where quirky gift stores
McQueen, Barbour, Death by Zero, G Star, Hugo
and imaginative food shops share space with up-
Boss, Lyle & Scott, Paul Smith and Ralph Lauren.
and-coming jewellery designers and vendors of
Not far from Selfridge’s, on the intersecting
sweet-smelling bath products. Shopping in Covent
London 101
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Clockwise from left: Camden Market; Camden High Street; Portobello Road.
‘Away from the city’s department stores, Vivienne Westwood, at World’s End along the King’s Road, is a sight to behold’ Garden is a real experience – there are always street
Arpels, Tiffany, De Beers, Aspreys and Boodles.
performers and entertainers, including actors who
Bond Street is also the home of renowned auction
dress up as metallic statues, fire breathers and
house Sotheby’s, which sells sculptures, paintings,
daredevil jugglers. There are also tons of brilliant
handicrafts, jewellery and musical instruments from
cafes and restaurants where you can stop and
around the world. You are welcome to go in and
compare purchases over a delicious bite to eat.
look at the exhibition of their upcoming auctions
One of Covent Garden’s most popular spots is
– a lovely way to spend an hour or two. And if
the Apple Store. Open for just a matter of months,
it’s clothing you’re after, why not pop in to Gucci,
it is home to all the very latest products from the
Burberry or Ralph Lauren?
Californian computing giant. It is a highly interactive
Westfield caused quite a stir in West London
place, where visitors are encouraged to play with
when it opened a couple of years ago. Until then
the computers, listen to music on the iPads, and
there had been no major mall on offer, so shoppers
surf the net on iPhones. Upstairs there is a software
were delighted at the arrival of this huge and
store selling all the programs you need to get
beautiful centre. It will remind you of a mall in Dubai
started, as well as a Mac surgery where you can
in terms of its design and layout – lots of light, open
take a lesson in how to get the most out of your
space, big atriums and streets, and plenty of public
new computer, or bring in a faulty one for repair.
space to relax in. Westfield does a particularly good
Bond Street has long been synonymous with
line in children’s fashion, but it is also brilliant for
opulence, wealth and beautiful jewellery. It is the
adult designerware – don’t miss out on the “Village”
London base for the world’s biggest and oldest
section, where you will find House of Fraser and
jewellery brands, including Cartier, Van Kleef and
dozens of smaller boutiques all clustered together.
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London 101
Left: Selfridges. Below: Soho.
When it comes to relaxation, there is a great ice-
You can specify the design of your choice, but
skating rink and a large cinema plus an al fresco
you’re better off taking direction from the on-site
strip of restaurants including Jamie Oliver’s famous
experts, who can match your footwear with your
Italian outpost.
lovely new suit. Meanwhile, if your tastes are more
If you’re looking for a long-lasting souvenir of
funky than traditional, you should check out Black
your time in London, why not head over to Savile
Truffle in Broadway Market, which has an unusual
Row? It has long been the home of the city’s most
and eclectic mix of boots, sandals, loafers, wedges
talented tailors, who will measure you up and
trainers and Mary Janes - as well as a selection of
create a bespoke suit for you in just a few days.
vegan shoes.
You can choose from the most astonishing spread
Borough Market deserves its own dedicated
of different materials – although the classic choice
entry for having established itself as one of the
would be a pinstripe – and the service makes you
foodie centres of London town. Every Friday
feel like you’re an archduke for the day. It’s not just
and Saturday throughout the year its winding
men who can get fitted up – there are also tailors
alleyways are filled with dozens and dozens of
who create beautiful suits for women.
stalls selling everything from gourmet pies and
Once you have secured your new outfit you’ll
specialty cheeses to roast beef baguettes and the
need some high-quality shoes to go with it. Look
world’s best banana cake. You could very happily
no further than Church’s – the cobbler of choice
spend two hours munching your way around this
for generations of high-powered executives
marvellous market, trying scores of samples from
and blue-blooded aristocrats. The shoes are of
the friendly and talkative stall owners, and loading
such high quality that they come with a lifetime
your bags down with unmissable and intriguing
guarantee – take them back at any time and they
treats from the four corners of the UK. This is also
will be re-soled for you at no extra cost. This means
the perfect refuelling spot for anyone spending the
that while the initial investment is high, in the
morning at the Tate modern – it’s just 10 minutes
long-term the shoes end up paying for themselves.
walk away along the Thames.
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London 101
Left: Harrod’s; Below: Westfield shopping centre.
Earlham Street - they also do great posters. With branches across London, high-class perfumerie Penhaligon’s has been in business since the 1870s. It’s the most fantastic place for gift shopping – there are none of your celebrity A more refined foodie shopping experience is on offer at Fortnum & Mason in Piccadilly, the food hall par excellence and the ideal place to go if you need
scents here, just wonderfully exotic and mysterious colognes whose recipes stretch back centuries. Naturally, they come beautifully wrapped.
a gourmet gift that’s guaranteed to impress. One of the most popular items on sale in the classic food hamper – you can construct your ideal mix of luxury gourmet goods according to the tastes of the lucky recipient, and it will all be brought together in a collectable wicker basket, stamped with the name of the store. Bibliophiles will fall in love instantly with Charing
bmi recommends... If you’re short on time and have some specific shopping
Cross Road. Filled from top to tail with beautiful
you need to get done while you’re in London, why not
bookstores, this road is the place to come to stock
use one of the personal shopping services offered by
up your library. Whether you’re shopping for new
most of the big department stores? They can help you
books at the gigantic Foyles or Blackwells, or
cut out hours of trawling round the shops and give
browsing through ancient tomes in the myriad
you expert personal recommendations which will
second-hand stores, you’re sure to find plenty of
save you time - and maybe even money too. There
exciting possibilities. The small streets which spider
is a dedicated personal shopping service at House
off Charing Cross Road are worth exploring too. On
of Fraser, which also offers a complimentary style
them you’ll find bookstores specialising in the most
consultation; at Harrods, the BY APPOINTMENT and
beautiful old books, prints and maps. While a trip
Beyond services help you get to grips with their seven
down these alleyways may prove expensive, it will
sprawling floors of products; and at Liberty, they offer
do wonders for your intellect and general sense of
a service which prides itself on its personal approach
wellbeing. And for a beautifully-curated selection of
and honest advice.
magazines, make sure to stop by Magma Books on London 101
17
The Restaurants
In London you can eat your way around the world without going outside the M25 – and whether it’s cute independent delis, exotic far eastern eateries or high profile celebrity chef haunts you love, you’ll find your perfect place here. When picking restaurants to try in London, many visitors head straight for one of Gordon
nitrogen-fuelled ice cream cart does the rounds for dessert.
Ramsay’s clutch of outlets. It’s certainly true
From the experimental to the hyper-traditional:
that they offer wonderful food and excellent
Rules restaurant (020 7836 5314) is an incredible
service – provided you don’t accidentally irritate
treat for anybody who loves fine old English food.
their famously shoutie owner. Gordon Ramsay
Rules is London’s oldest restaurant and has been
at Claridge’s (020 7499 0099) and Petrus (020
a haunt for the great and good for centuries. Its
7592 1609) are both fantastic dining options, but
decoration reminds you of the gentlemen’s clubs
once you’ve paid homage to the master of Hell’s
described in Jeeves and Wooster novels, and the
Kitchen, you’ll find there are hundreds of other
food is similarly decadent. All the key ingredients
exciting restaurants to choose from.
come from Rules’ very own estate in Scotland,
Take Dinner by Heston Blumenthal at the
and they are of superb quality. Expect to enjoy the
Mandarin Oriental (020 7201 3833), for example,
likes of delicious tender roast beef with enormous
one of the most exciting new restaurants to open
Yorkshire puddings, brackish potted shrimp and
in 2011. Famous for his outlandish creations at
the best steak and oyster pies in the country.
the Fat Duck in Bray, Blumenthal has now turned
If you prefer traditional French to traditional
his attentions to the capital. The views out over
British, try Poule au Pot (020 7730 7763), a rustic
Hyde Park are fantastic, but even better is the
French eatery just off Sloane Square. This is the
extraordinary mix of historic English dishes which
place to try out some specialities you’ve always
populate the menu. Heston has ploughed through
wanted to taste but haven’t been brave enough.
dozens of centuries-old recipe books to create
The bouillabaisse is a particular star, filled with
dishes such as the Meat Fruit – which looks exactly
tender juicy fish and set in a sauce so dramatically
like an orange despite the fact that it’s made of
powerful it ought to receive an Oscar. The
a delicate chicken liver mousse. Other creations
rabbit cooked in three different ways is another
include spiced pigeon and taffety tart, and a
unmissable event.
18
London 101
A second French brasserie of note is Les Deux Salons (020 7420 2050), run by the same
wave take on Italian cuisine is unstoppably good. Another European favourite is Chez Bruce
team who operate the ever-excellent Arbutus
(020 8672 0114). Getting there means a little
(020 7734 4545). Open for just a few months,
bit of a trek out of central London, but it’s well
it has already become the restaurant of choice
worth the visit to Wandsworth. One of Britain’s
for businessmen entertaining clients in Soho.
most talented and least feted chefs, Bruce runs
It’s a reliable choice if you’re in the mood for a
a surprisingly affordable gourmet establishment
steak-frites, cassoulet or a pot of delicious moules
which Gordon Ramsay has cited as one of his
marinieres. The dining room is decked out in the
favourites. Whether you go for one of the special
very best Parisian style with plenty of gleaming
menus or strike out with à la carte, you can be
chrome, comfy banquettes and polished mirrors.
assured of eating some of the most sophisticated
Meanwhile if you find yourself with a craving for
European food in Britain. At the weekends CB is
gallic cuisine when in West London, you should
filled with local families and is a lovely place to go
try the superb La Trompette (020 8747 1836),
with your kids.
which has a name for its sumptuous seafood and bafflingly extensive cheeseboard. For more modern European fare, hit The
When you can’t resist your carnivorous cravings, take your appetite from meat to Covent Garden where you will find Sophie’s Steakhouse
River Cafe (020 7386 4200), the place where
(020 7836 8836). The meat here is served in
Jamie Oliver got his big break on camera. It is
outrageously large portions – last time we dined
restlessly inventive with its dishes, updating its
at Sophie’s we worked our way through a 32
menus on a near constant basis, and putting
ounce steak with three separate trimmings. There
out regular cookbooks which grace the kitchen
are plenty of other options, including lobster and
shelves of well-to-do amateur chefs across the
some particularly fine gourmet burgers but the
country. Similarly brilliant is Theo Randall at the
real must-try here is the sirloin, fillet and T-bone
InterContinental (020 7318 8747), whose new
section. Beware when ordering side dishes here – London 101
19
A NEW ANGLE ON URBAN LUXURY
Completely redesigned for the 21st century, the London Marriott Grosvenor Square offers an experience no other hotel can match. Step out of your suite and bask by the ďŹ replace in your own private garden. Take in a West End show or indulge in the boutiques of Mayfair. Revel in the spacious luxury of our exclusive Club Lounge. Or enjoy exquisite dining from Gordon Ramsay at Michelin-starred maze, the relaxed maze Grill, exclusive Private Dining or even in your room. Experience the shape of hotels to come. The London Marriott Hotel, Grosvenor Square, London W1K 6JP For hotel bookings T: +44 (0) 20 7493 1232 F: +44 (0) 20 7514 1528
For Gordon Ramsay dining reservations maze: +44 (0) 20 7107 0000 maze Grill: +44 (0) 20 7495 2211
marriottgrosvenorsquare.com
Previous page: Petrus. This page from left to right: Les Deux Salons; Pasta dish with sweet peppers, feta cheese and olives.
they come in portions suitable for the BFG. There’s some brilliant Italian cuisine in London – and many people will tell you that Bocca di Lupo (020 7734 2223) is the best Italian
edged base, rich, powerful tomato sauce, highquality mozzarella, and a sprinkling of the most deliciously fresh toppings. If you’re in the mood for a relaxed Saturday
restaurant around. It’s certainly a contender, but
or Sunday lunch by the Thames, make your way
we’ve recently been won over by a less obvious
to Tom’s Kitchen in Somerset House (0207 845
choice. London is remarkably short on Sardinian
4646). This elongated restaurant is split into
restaurants, in fact there’s only one – Sardo (020
several different sunlit dining rooms, all of which
7387 2521) – which is tucked away down a side
have brilliant views out over the river. The menu
road by Warren Street tube station. Happily, it
is simple and crammed with classic comfort food.
does the island’s cuisine full justice. Start with
Whether you order Tom’s burger, the enormous
the exquisite fish carpaccio then move on to one
fish and chips or the delicate beetroot and feta
of their rich, warming risottos and finish with a
salad, you’ll be delighted with your choice. There
battery of Sardinian cheeses: bliss.
are always fascinating exhibitions going on at
Meanwhile, when it comes to pizza there is
Somerset house too, so once you’ve polished
categorically no better place to visit then Franco
off a sticky toffee pudding and enjoyed a freshly
Manca. There are two branches of this legendary
brewed coffee, you can wander downstairs for
pizzeria in London – the small original outlet in
some cultural enlightenment.
Brixton market (0207 738 3021), and the more
Another great place if you’re in the mood for
sophisticated restaurant on Chiswick High Street
a quick and delicious gourmet dinner is Busaba
(020 8747 4822). The pizza they serve is cooked
Eathai (020 7255 8686), situated on Wardour
in authentic woodfired ovens, and has that
Street. Diners sit at long shared wooden tables
perfect mix of chewy, slightly charred and crisp
and order from a marvellous mix of noodles, Thai London 101
21
‘If you prefer your Thai food gourmet, rather than cheap and cheerful, you should book yourself in for an evening at Nahm’ curries and stir fries. The thing that really gets our
experienced at dinner time, when the low lighting,
gourmet pulse jumping, though, is the prospect of
beautiful bar, and slick decoration come into
the house special; calamari cooked in garlic and a
their own. While you could happily limit yourself
marvellous spice mix it has a flavour so good that
to just dim sum, this would be a mistake – the
if you order a bowl to share you may well fall out
imaginative dishes from across China are perfectly
with your dining companion over who gets the
prepared – we still have very happy memories of
last piece.
their unbeatable Peking duck.
Meanwhile, if you prefer your Thai food
If you have not yet had the opportunity to
gourmet, rather than cheap and cheerful, you
experience Nobu’s (020 7290 9222) greatness
should book yourself in for an evening at Nahm
in his Dubai restaurant at Atlantis, The Palm,
at the Halkin (020 7333 1234), the city’s only
you simply must make time to visit the London
Michelin-starred Thai restaurant. For Vietnamese
chapter. Nobu’s modern Japanese cuisine is so
food, try Pho (020 7253 7624), a small but
exciting that it has spawned a host of imitators,
perfectly-formed eatery in Clerkenwell, where
but there’s still no one who does it quite as well
there’s often a queue streaming out the door in a
as him. The sushi, maki, yakitori grills and slivers
bid to sample the gorgeous rice paper rolls and
of beef carpaccio are all outstanding, but the
immaculate noodle soups, its stock in trade.
real gourmet crown goes to the highly popular
For Chinese food, it has to be Hakasan (020 7927 7000), a Michelin-starred restaurant in the heart of Soho. It’s known for having some of the best dim sum this side of Hong Kong and is best 22
London 101
black cod in miso sauce, a creation of genius with multiple seams of rich flavour. Another intriguing spot is the Afghan Kitchen (020 7359 8019) in Islington. It’s a no-nonsense
Opposite page: The River Cafe. This page clockwise from bottom left: Hakkasan; Chez Bruce; Crab at Petrus; Dinner by Heston Blumenthal.
halal eatery with a swift turnaround in a
Edgware Road, an avenue lined with an unfeasible
surprisingly basic space whose menu is short and
number of Middle Eastern eateries and where the
offers little diversity and whose service can be
Lebanese food is particularly good.
disconcertingly abrupt. Despite all this it remains one of Islington’s most popular restaurants, with devotees returning regularly to experience the authentic cuisine – make sure to order one of their last loaves of shareable bread with your meal. You can also get excellent halal food at Pasha (020
bmi recommends...
7589 7969), a Moroccan restaurant in Kensington.
One dining trend that’s becoming increasingly popular is
When it comes to gourmet areas, Exmouth
the phenomenon of chefs’ tables. Book in to one of these
Market is one of those streets that in the know
and you’ll eat at a special table in the kitchen, surrounded
Londoners rave about. It’s lined with outstanding
by all the action, and will have the dishes described and
restaurants and cafes, including Caravan (020
presented to you by the chef, who will also join you for
7833 8115), The Ambassador (020 7837 0009)
part of the meal. You’ll find this service on offer at many
and Sade (020 7833 1111), but none has a better
restaurants - some of the most prestigious are at Marcus
reputation than Moro (020 7833 8336). The tables
Wareing at the Berkeley (www.the-berkeley.co.uk),
here are packed closely together and every night
Gordon Ramsay at The London (www.gordonramsay.
they are filled with happy diners enjoying its
com) and Dinner by Heston Blumenthal (www.
imaginative Moroccan–Mediterranean cuisine.
dinnerbyheston.com).
Another district beloved by true gourmets is London 101
23
The Culture You could happily spend an entire holiday wandering round the tens of thousands of exhibits in London’s key museums and cultural spaces alone – but that wouldn’t leave you enough time for shopping, beautiful meals and sightseeing. Allow us to pick out the best for you... The British capital is blessed with the world’s
ranging from the genre–twistingly bizarre to the
very finest collection of museums. That’s no
frustratingly pretentious – check out the ripped
mere hyperbole – while others can boast bigger
canvas entitled ‘Ripped canvas’ – to the sublimely
museums, more modern museums and wealthier
beautiful on display.
museums, London takes the trophy in terms of
If you like your art more traditional, get
sheer range and quality. There’s even a dedicated
yourself over to Tate Britain, a repository of the
Museum of London.
nation’s finest artists over the last millennium
If you’re making a priority list, then these are
or so. Like the Tate Modern, entrance is free of
the cultural icons that should be at the very top.
charge, although visitors are encouraged to
Let’s start with the Tate Modern. Housed in a
give a donation. The best way to get between
former power station on the south bank of the
the two Tates is by taking the dedicated Tate
Thames, this soaring redbrick creation has become
riverboat, which will motor you from modernism
famed for the incredible interactive displays in
to traditionalism in around 20 minutes.
its voluminous turbine Hall. Most recently the hall
Once you’re at the Tate Modern you are just
has been filled with tens of millions of ceramic
a short walk away from the National Portrait
sunflower seeds created by Chinese artist Ai
Gallery. Perched on the side of Trafalgar Square,
Weiwei, but in the past it has also been blessed
this labyrinthine institution is dedicated to
with a huge fake crack which seemed to split the
collecting portraits of famous and esteemed faces
concrete floor from end to end, a ceiling filled
from around the world. These range from galleries
with mirrors, which encouraged visitors to lie on
filled with pictures of 16th century dukes and earls
their backs and make shapes at the sky, and a
to corridors lined with stunning photographs of
series of fairground-style, whirly-go-rounds which
modern day celebrities. Make sure not to miss out
visitors could use to plummet from the fifth floor
on Lucien Freud’s famous – and, some would say,
to the ground. Once you’re beyond the entrance
rather unflattering – portrait of her Majesty the
hall, you’ll find floor upon floor of modern art
Queen.
24
London 101
Clockwise from left: The Imperial War Museum; Tate Britain; Shakespeare’s Globe.
If history is more your thing, there is nowhere
to wear while roaming the war rooms – he had
more fascinating than the Cabinet War Rooms.
decided that if he was going to work 18 hours a
It was from this nest of small chambers buried
day, he wanted to be comfortable doing it. But
underneath Whitehall that Churchill and his
his eccentricity did not stop there – legend has it
ministers directed the early years of the Second
that during the Blitz, and much to the horror of
World War. The first thing that strikes you about
his staff, Churchill used to climb onto the roof of
the War Rooms is that they are incredibly small
this building to watch the bombs rain down on
and equipped with technology so basic – maps
London. This is the sort of exhibit which gives you
with pins in them, banks of different-coloured
a major insight into what it is possible to achieve
telephones – that you have to marvel at the fact
in one human life.
that this small band of planners could control their
While the undisputed hero of 20th-century
Army and Navy at a distance, let alone end up
Britain brought us the joys of the Cabinet War
winning the conflict. Attach to the Cabinet War
Rooms, it was the Victorians who really laid down
Rooms is the Churchill Museum, which is filled
Britain’s major cultural heritage. This acquisitive
with intriguing artefacts from the war leader’s
race spent their reign and their influence dashing
war years. Churchill had an extraordinary life,
round the world picking up interesting objects –
perhaps best captured in a cartoon on display
sometimes much to the upset of the people who
here, which shows the man on his 90th birthday
originally owned them. Nowhere is this better in
being toasted by versions of himself throughout
evidence than at the British Museum, a repository
the years – the journalist, the soldier, the junior
for pilfered items from across the British Empire.
minister, the opposition MP, and the cigar–toting
The museum’s architecture is a mix of sturdy
elder statesman. There is also the adult sized
Victorian stone and the beautiful glass dome
romper suit that Churchill commissioned and used
and open marble area created by legendary London 101
25
‘If you like your art more traditional, get yourself over to Tate Britain, a repository of the nation’s finest artists’ architect Sir Norman Foster. Spend the morning
collect their thoughts. Although if you really want
wandering round and you will lose yourself in
to see an impressive book collection, you should
ancient Roman sculptures, Egyptian mummies,
head to the British Library, whose dozens of
Far Eastern pottery and Middle Eastern jewellery,
reading rooms are open to the public, and which
all lovingly presented and documented. If you’re
regularly hosts fascinating exhibitions on books
feeling peckish halfway through, make a stop at
and language.
the excellent restaurant that sits just underneath Foster’s cupola.
Another fascinating cultural treasure trove is the Imperial War Museum. Located south of the
Further demonstration of the acquisitive nature
river by Elephant and Castle, this place will give
of the Victorians is on show at the V&A. You can’t
you a crash course in the many and varied wars
help but marvel at the shere number of exhibits on
engaged in by the British nation over the years.
offer here. Alongside sculpture and painting there
The main hall is filled with war ambulances from
is the most fantastic permanent exhibit of royal
the First World War, V2 rockets from the Second,
jewellery from around the world, a treasure trove
tanks and planes used in the Falklands, and
of sparkling gems and precious metals that makes
armoured personnel carriers from Gulf War One.
you wonder whether the British government
There are superb permanent exhibitions on the
couldn’t sort out their deficit issue by simply
First World War, including a ‘Trench Experience’
selling it off. There’s also a grand cafe whose
where you can get a taste for the horrors of
roof is covered in intricate imperial mosaics, and
Flanders, as well as wonderful collections
a lovely old reading room lined with five-tier
of personal memorabilia, propaganda, and
mahogany bookcases, where visitors can stop and
audiovisual clips.
26
London 101
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Previous page; National Portrait Gallery. This page from left: The Tate Modern and Millennium Bridge; British Museum.
‘When it comes to entertainment, you should make sure to book tickets for the Royal Opera house, which regularly hosts some of the world’s biggest names in opera and ballet’ Over at the Science Museum, meanwhile, you
Finally, for a relaxed and engaging visit which
can get a similarly in-depth briefing on major
all the family can enjoy, make a beeline for the
science and technology breakthroughs of the
Cartoon Museum. The UK has a long and infamous
last century. This place is a major favourite with
history of cartooning, satire and caricature, and
families, as it’s home to the Wellcome Wing, which
it’s all housed here, where the sheer level of skill
has been designed to get kids excited about
on display is simply amazing.
science, with a host of interactive displays. Another place your kids will love is the Clink Prison Museum situated down on the South Bank near Borough Market. This spooky spot stands on the site of the notorious former prison and gives a gruesome vision of what used to happen to
bmi recommends...
naughty Victorians. Kids will also love the brilliant
If you’re tired of the pace of life in the heart of the
Sherlock Holmes Museum located, naturally, at
city, why not calm things down with a lovely boat trip
221B Baker Street.
out to Greenwich? Thames River Services (www.
When it comes to entertainment, you should
thamesriverservices.co.uk) run regular trips to the area,
make sure to book tickets for the Royal Opera
picking up from multiple stops en route. Once you arrive,
house, which regularly hosts some of the world’s
you’ll find a less crowded, more relaxed place with plenty
biggest names in opera and ballet. You’d also
to do. The biggest attraction is the Royal Observatory,
be well advised to book tickets in advance for a
home to the meridian line, the fascinating National
coveted performance at Shakespeare’s Globe, the
Maritime Museum and the beautiful 180 acre-large
beautiful re-creation of the great Bard’s original
Greenwich Park.
Playhouse. 28
London 101
The Sights The Big Smoke is a living museum – everywhere you go you’ll see ancient buildings sitting cheek by jowl with sleek modern architecture. Be sure to bring a spare memory card – you’ll want to fill your camera up with pictures. The seat of Her Majesty the Queen, Buckingham
enchanting old monuments – including tributes to
Palace is an iconic building and an unmissable stop
the fallen in pretty much every British battle for
on any self-respecting tourist’s visit. You can book
the last millenium (which is a lot). In order to get
up to take a guided tour of the State Rooms on
the most out of the Abbey, you should book a tour
certain days, which gives you a wonderful insight
guide, who will give you some fantastic insights its
into the grandeur and pageantry of royal life. You
rich history.
must make sure to be around for one of the regular
If you’re looking to sit back, people watch and
‘changing of the guard’ ceremonies, too, when
soak up a little atmosphere, grab yourself a seat at
soldiers dressed in breastplates and ceremonial hats
Trafalgar Square. This great imperial square at the
march their way to and from their guardposts. Once
heart of London is the site of all of the city’s big
you’re done checking out the heart of royal London,
demonstrations and celebrations. At its centre is
take a wander in the surrounding St James’s Park,
the 150 foot high Nelson’s column, topped with an
which leads you up through leafy greenery to
18 foot tall statue of Horatio Nelson, Britain’s most
Westminster Abbey.
famous Navy man. The four huge lions at the base
The Abbey was originally founded in the 7th
of the column were supposedly cast from bronze
century and has gone through several different
cannons which were taken from the French fleet
incarnations. It is the place in which British kings
during the Battle of Trafalgar. Directly behind you
and queens are married, crowned and buried and
is the wonderful National Gallery, and to your left is
saw the coronations of King Harold and William
the Strand, a famous old shopping street.
the Conqueror, both in 1066. Queen Elizabeth was
Up north, tacked on to the gigantic Regent’s
married to Philip, Duke of Edinburgh here, as were –
Park – which is worth an afternoon’s walkaround in
more recently – Prince William and Kate Middleton.
itself, with its lovely gardens and waterway as well
Aside from the centuries-old whiff of history
as its own dedicated theatre where great al fresco
that greets you when you enter, there are a lot of
plays take place in summertime – is London Zoo,
beautiful stained glass windows to see, and some
one of the biggest and best zoos in Europe. The London 101
29
Clockwise from left: Westminster Abbey; Trafalgar Square; Buckingham Palace’s famous guards.
‘If you’re looking to sit back, people watch and soak up a little atmosphere, grab yourself a seat at Trafalgar Square’ entrance fee is hefty – but it’s worth every penny.
quarter, and accompanied by a trained guide, you’ll
The layout is simple – follow the paths and you’ll be
get to see the key parts of the building, including
led around enclosures of giraffes, zebras, baboons,
the debating chambers of the Commons and the
penguins and more, as well as petrifying collections
Lords, Westminster Hall and the Queen’s Robing
of bugs, spiders and snakes, and a charming
Room: all essential for history buffs. And of course,
walk-in butterfly room where the air is thick with
you mustn’t miss out on seeing Big Ben, the famous
kaleidoscopic wings. An unmissable attraction,
clock tower (or rather the bell which lies at its
particularly if you have kids in tow.
heart) and taking a walk up its spiralling staircase.
Set in another lovely park, Kensington Palace
When it comes to Victorian splendour, there’s
is the former official residence of Diana Princess
nothing to match The Albert Hall, a redbrick beauty
of Wales (and the dedicated Diana Memorial
which is one of London’s most prestigious venues.
Playground is just nearby). Many parts of the Palace
The best way to see it is at a concert – as you listen
are currently unaccessible due to building works
to the music you can take in the huge vaulting
but the state rooms, which are open, have been
ceilings, the rich red drapery and the gilt lining
taken over by a fascinating art experiment entitled
that trims all the walls. There are also regular tours
‘The Enchanted Palace’, a mysterious experience
of the Hall, which take you behind the scenes and
which showcases modern fashion and art.
give you access to the Queen’s Box and the Royal
The icon of British democracy and the heart of
Retiring Room.
the UK government is Parliament, comprised of
The hub of the UK’s financial power is The
the House of Commons and the House of Lords.
City, and at its heart lies The Bank of England.
You can sign up for an organised tour on Saturdays
You can’t take a tour of the bank itself, but you
and during the ‘Summer Opening’. In an hour and a
can visit the Bank of England Museum which has
Clockwise from left: London Eye; Kensington Palace garden; Tower Bridge.
rafts of extraordinary treasures, including ancient
wheel is worth stopping off to visit – the queues
banknotes, furniture, statues and silver.
can be huge, but it’s worth the wait as you float up
Another venerable institution – and one which
into the sky for a bird’s eye view out over the city.
has had a more infamous history than the Bank of England – is the Tower of London. A thousand year old fortress, the tower has been a palace, a prison, a royal mint and even a zoo. Three queens of England have been beheaded here, and hundreds of political prisoners locked up inside. A guided tour will give
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you all the background you need to understand
If you’ve got a lot of sights to cover and you prefer being
the place – and will take you to see the wonderful
out in the fresh air, why not rent a bike to get between
Crown Jewels.
cultural icons? The introduction of London’s bike hire
At the heart of London, of course, is The River
scheme, known affectionately as ‘Boris Bikes’ after the
Thames, a sight to behold in itself as well as
city’s scruffy-haired mayor Boris Johnson, has been a
offering a great way to get about. Numerous tourist
roaring success. You’ll see banks of bikes on every other
boats ply this historic waterway, picking up and
street corner - just swipe your credit card to release one,
dropping off from Westminster Pier, Tower Pier and
cycle off and when you reach your destination you can
Greenwhich Pier and as you float along you’ll see
park it in a nearby holding bay. You can cycle for half an
– and pass under – the magnificent Tower Bridge.
hour for free, which should be plenty to get you between
During your waterborne jaunt, you’ll also catch sight
destinations. And the bikes themselves are rather good -
of the riverfront London Eye, a relatively recent
sturdy and well built, with good lights.
addition to the city’s skyline. This outsized ferris London 101
31
WIN! A three-night stay at The Stafford London, by Kempinski For a slice of quintessential English style in the heart of the capital, look no further than the elegant surrounds of the historic Stafford London. Nestled in a peaceful patch behind Green Park (and a stone’s throw from busy Piccadilly), the hotel’s main house takes up residence within three 17th century townhouses, while the adjacent Stafford Mews host myriad suites in a courtyard setting. Take advantage of the hotel’s central location with a mammoth shopping trip to some of the top streets in town – Bond Street, Jermyn Street and Regent Street – before taking in a West End show. And, when you’re ready for a bite, make your way back to The Stafford London’s fine dining restaurant. It’s sublime. THE PRIZE We’re giving away a three-night stay for two in a deluxe room in the hotel’s main house, including a full English breakfast daily. To be in with a chance of winning, email your answer to the question below to easywin@hotmediapublishing.com before May 31, 2011. Q. Which park is located close to The Stafford London? a. Hyde Park b. Green Park c. Upton Park Terms and conditions: Prize is subject to availability at the time of booking. Prize must be claimed within 12 months after winner is notified.
32
London 101
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