London 101_May'11

LONdON 101 all you need to know to enjoy england’s capital

hOteLs cuLture shOps sights restauraNts

kanoo world traveller

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Capital gains

As London gears up for the 2012 Olympics, huge new infrastructure projects are being put in place, hotels are being refurbished, countless new restaurants are being opened, and a world of new activities is being put on offer. The city’s ever-vibrant art and culture scene is also getting a shot in the arm, as new waves of plays, exhibitions, musicals and more are brought to life. In short, there’s no better time to pay a visit to England’s capital, before the sport-loving crowds descend next year…

About this guide Our panel of experts has selected the 101 best things about London and placed them into simple-to-reference sections, making it easy for you to plan your perfect trip. Our recommendations range from mainstream essentials to more off-beat options, getting you straight to the heart of this action-packed city.

Contents 7

The Hotels – outstanding abodes, from the traditional to the modern.

13 The Shopping – quirky boutiques, designer brands and department store delights.

18 The Restaurants – celebrity chef creations and the best up-andcoming independent eateries.

24 The Culture – galleries, museums, theatres and the best spots for

Production in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in this publication.

opera and ballet.

29 The Sights – don’t leave town without ticking these must-sees

London

off your list.

Produced by HOT Media Publishing FZ LLC

London 101

3

oxford street HYDE PARk RIVER THAMES SOUTH BANK

KINGS ROAD

The Knowledge The need-to-know facts for getting to and around London.

Getting There

most local rail services, too. Buses and black cabs

bmi British Midland International offers scheduled

– two iconic modes of London transport – are also

services to London Heathrow from Riyadh,

in plentiful supply throughout the city. If you want

Dammam and Jeddah, making it a simple city

to hire a car and drive around the city yourself,

to access. For ticketing information, visit your

you’ll find an endless number of rental firms at the

nearest Kanoo Travel or American Express Travel

airport. Just remember that people drive on the

outlet or log onto www.flybmi.com

left hand side of the road in the UK.

Transport

Money

It’s easy to get around London and all of the

The Pound Sterling is the official currency of the

major sights and attractions are very well

UK. Denominations of coins range from one pence

signposted. The London Underground, which is

to two pounds (100 pence make up one pound)

more commonly known as ‘The Tube’, is the most

and notes from five pounds to 50 pounds. At time

popular form of transport. It’s easy to use and

of press, US$1 was equivalent to 61 pence.

comprises 12 lines which can ferry you from the

Visas

heart of the city to its outer limits. Simply pick

Nationals of all GCC countries

up an Underground map on arrival into London

require a visa to enter the

Heathrow and consider buying an Oyster Card,

UK and can stay for

which is a cost-effective way of travelling without

a maximum of six

limit on not only the tube network but buses and

months.

4

London 101

31

What’s on while you’re there...

May

June

July

This month sees the start of the Open Air Theatre in Regents Park, a lovely place for al fresco entertainment in the long sunny evenings.

Make sure not to miss out on the exuberant Spitalfields Festival which features a brilliant programme of classical folk and pop music in a beautiful setting.

What could be more relaxingly British than watching the cricket on a summer’s day? This is the month to enjoy test matches at the Oval.

August

September

Get your fill of classical music, opera, jazz and pop at the Proms, which run throughout this month. It is a great chance to see some of the world’s best musicians in action.

Swing by the National Portrait Gallery to check out the contestants in the BP Portrait Awards, an annual artistic showdown.

November

December

If you’re here towards the beginning of the month, you can attend the grand switching-on ceremonies of Oxford Street and Regent Street’s beautiful festive lights.

February London Fashion Week comes to town, bringing designers and fashionistas from across the globe together to assess the action on the catwalks.

The middle of the month sees the Bankside Frost Fair come to the River Thames – this historic festival mixes great food with plenty of cultural events.

March The Oxford and Cambridge boat race draws huge crowds to the Riverside in West London, to see the old University enemies go head-to-head.

Market intelligence

October

Here’s a beautifully eccentric British event for you – the Hampstead Heath Conker Championships. Take part yourself or just watch the experts in action.

January

The highly prestigious London Art Fair sees dealers, collectors, artists and interested onlookers converge on the city for five days.

April Cinephiles will love the excitement of the East End film Festival which showcases up-and-coming UK directors who will screen both features and shorts.

London is filled with markets, selling everything from jewellery to vintage clothing and from flowers to gourmet foods. Almost every area has at least one – some of the best-known include Camden market (mainly tourist- and music-oriented), Broadway market (vintage clothing and gourmet food), Brick Lane market (retro furniture and handmade clothing), Spitalfields market (redesigned by Norman Foster and home to the great antiques).

London by numbers

1

The size in square miles of the actual City of London – most of the rest of the centre actually falls under ‘The City of Westminster’.

12

The number of littleknown rivers which flowed beneath the streets of London, including the Walbrook, the Fleet, and Stamford Brook.

32

The number of pods on the London Eye, each of which represents one of the London boroughs.

25,000

The number of black cabs currently plying the streets of London.

80,000

The number of umbrellas lost each year on the London Underground.

London 101

5

Define British Classic in the heart of Mayfair Rocco Forte’s Brown’s Hotel London This chic hotel personifies the refined sophistication of modern British luxury and offers the perfect home-away-from-home. Rocco Forte’s Brown’s Hotel is in the heart of Mayfair, boasting one of the most prestigious addresses in the city. The hotel is located only minutes away from the most upscale London shopping areas such as Bond and Regent Street.

With outstanding personal service, spacious and elegant rooms and suites - ideal for large families - and its restaurant ‘HIX at the Albemarle’ celebrating art and cuisine, it offers all a most memorable London experience.

Albermarle Street, London, W1S 4BP Tel: 020 7493 6020 Fax: 020 7493 9381 E-mail: reservations.browns@roccofortecollection.com www.roccofortecollection.com

The Hotels Whether you want traditional and opulent or quirky and imaginative, London’s hotels are varied enough to please all manner of tastes. They do have one thing in common, though – the levels of quality and service they offer are simply world-beating...

The Hilton Park Lane (www.hilton.co.uk) is located

(www.fourseasons.com). Its decor is outrageously

directly opposite Hyde Park, with its grand gardens,

lavish, and even hanging out for a coffee in the

boating lake and kilometres of cycling, jogging and

lobby area – with its sink-in art deco seating and its

strolling paths. This lovely modern hotel has more

live pianist – is a treat. There are some particularly

to offer than its central location however – starting

exciting touches here, including a glass-walled

with the Michelin-starred Galvin at Windows

rooftop spa where you can get incredible views

restaurant, which offers panoramic views over

with your expert rubdown. For a truly charming

the city. There is a first-class health club and spa

stay book a garden suite, which comes with a

too – don’t miss out on their trademark four hand

landscaped terrace overlooking a private garden, as

massage – and of course beautiful rooms.

well as a lounge fit for a king.

Nearby is the superb InterContinental Park Lane

When it comes to classic hotel names to conjure

(www.ichotelsgroup.com). This flagship hotel is

with, there are few more powerful than The

just across the road from Apsley house, the former

Dorchester (www.thedorchester.com) a grand spot

home of the Duke of Wellington, which is blessed

which has been one of the favourite hangouts of

with the coolest address in the city – “Number one,

the great and good for over 80 years. There are no

London.” The interiors are immaculately modern

fewer than seven separate food and drink outlets at

and the facilities are second to none. As with all

the Dorchester, the most exciting of which is Alain

Intercontinental properties, there is an emphasis

Ducasse’s London residence. We are also huge fans

on outstanding food and drink – the signature

of the ‘Spatisserie’, an informal place to enjoy a

restaurant, Theo Randall at the Intercontinental, is

light lunch, indulgent afternoon tea, or just-baked

a brilliantly sparky, contemporary Italian hotspot

pastry before or after your soothing spa session.

which mixes beautiful seasonal British ingredients

The suites are enormous here and each come

with Tuscan flair.

decked out with individual style – for a real treat

On the same prestigious strip as the Hilton and the Intercontinental is the Four Seasons Park Lane

book the famous Oliver Messel suite.

Right alongside the Dorchester in the name

London 101

7

Left: Claridge’s.

Below: The Dorchester.

recognition stakes is The Ritz London (www.

the Savoy – the only decision you have to make is

theritzlondon.com). Like its Parisian counterpart,

whether to take a room with a river or a city view.

the Ritz prides itself on providing beautiful

Another property that sits by the banks of

experiences to its guests. The decor is ostentatious,

the mighty Thames is Plaza on the River (www.

vibrant and utterly gorgeous (you will feel like

plazaontheriver.com). This is the perfect venue if

a 19th-century aristocrat as you stride along the

you like to have your own space – Plaza specialises

gilded halls), and there is a dedicated valet service

in beautifully-made residences which have all the

on hand to meet your every need.

comfort of a hotel coupled with all the freedom

Joining the Dorchester and the Ritz in the

of your own home. The two bedroom suites are

London hotel Hall of Fame is Claridges (www.

brilliant for families and benefit from excellent, well-

Claridges.co.uk), an art deco wonder whose fame

equipped kitchens where you can cook for yourself

stretches back over a century. For a real thrill, book

if you tire of eating out.

one of the extraordinary new suites designed by the

Immaculate apartments are also the name of the

legendary Diane von Furstenberg. These beauties

game at Cheval Residences (www.chevalresidences.

come with all the print-based style you’d expect

com), which has properties across London,

from this queen of fashion.

including Hyde Park gate in Knightsbridge as well

An equally major name on the London hotel

as at Gloucester Park. All are decorated in a smart

scene is The Savoy (www.fairmont.com/savoy),

and welcoming style, designed to make you feel

which has been welcoming guests since 1889. It

immediately at home, and all are kitted out with

recently underwent a £100 million restoration,

absolutely everything you could need to hit the

which mixed the gorgeous Edwardian interiors with

ground running.

modern trimmings. Before heading to the Savoy

If you want the best of London and the English

Grill (where else?) for dinner, stop for a cold juice at

countryside all in one, look no further than

the American Bar, which is something of a London

London Syon Park (www.londonsyonpark.com),

institution. Everything is taken care of for you at

a marvellous development on the Sion house

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London 101

Clockwise from bottom left: Four Seasons; The Kipling Suite at Brown’s; Dukes Hotel; 51 Buckingham Gate. Opposite page from top: Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park Hotel; The Langham.

estate – home of the Duke of Northumberland –

and excellent private dining rooms. We love Brown’s

located seven miles outside the city centre. The

for its personal touches, including the quirky

place is absolutely dripping with history, and sits in

selection of books in each room, the superb English

wonderful 400-year-old grounds. The suites range

afternoon teas and the imaginative dishes at HIX at

from Junior to Presidential, but all have that classic

the Albermarle, the in-house restaurant.

feel of old-fashioned British elegance. This is the

Another small hotel with tons of personality is

most wonderful place to return to after a busy day

Dukes Hotel (www.dukeshotel.com). This boutique

in the heart of the capital – you’ll feel like a blue

spot in St James has over 100 years of experience,

blooded noble coming back to their country retreat.

and it shows. Rooms are sleek, modern and

For a more modern, more central stay, check out the London Marriott Hotel Grosvenor Square (www.Marriott.com) in Mayfair. Just a gentle

comfortable, with some fabulous old-fashioned twists in the furniture.

Over in Mayfair is the beautifully conceived St

saunter from Oxford Circus, it is located in one of

James’s hotel and club (www.stjamesclubandhotel.

London’s most beautiful old squares. But it is not

co.uk). Originally a hangout for the aristocracy,

just the setting that delights – this hotel is also

St James’s boasts some of the very finest interior

home to Maze, a fabulous restaurant by Gordon

decoration in London. It is geared up both for

Ramsay, which also means that if you’re feeling too

business and for indulgence, with a great restaurant

lazy to go out, you can stay in your room and order

for entertaining in – Seven Park Place, which has a

Gordon Ramsay room service. Superb!

Michelin star and three AA rosettes – and superbly

There are some brilliant small hotels in the centre of London, and Brown’s (www.browns hotel.com) is

comfy, individually designed rooms.

Just around the corner is The May Fair London

one of our very favourites. Part of the Rocco Forte

(www.theMayfairhotel.co.uk). A huge amount of

collection, Brown’s lies in the heart of Mayfair and

thought has gone into the guest amenities here,

offers individually decorated suites, a lovely spa,

from the gorgeous stand-alone granite baths to the

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London 101

imaginative artwork and the personal terraces with birds eye views of the city, no expense has been spared to make you feel relaxed and happy. For an exciting dinner without having to leave your hotel, check out new launch Quince, which serves up a mouthwatering Eastern Mediterranean menu.

Meanwhile, for slick modern style and impeccable service, there are few better choices than the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park hotel (www.

MandarinOriental.com/London). Not only is it home to London’s hottest table, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal (see the restaurants section for details), but it also specialises in the art of relaxation, with one of the best spas in the city. After your wonderfully unwinding treatments, be sure to spend some time in their astonishing amethyst crystal steam room…

Situated in a grand old building, The Langham (www.London.Langhamhotels.co.uk) is located in the West End, mere minutes from the joys of Regent, Oxford and Bond Streets. They don’t have butlers here – they have ‘Langham service stylists’, who perform the same role and are also incredibly clued-up on the best things to do in the capital.

When you finally manage to tear yourself away from your adorable hotel suite, your first port of call must be Roux at the Landau, the hotel restaurant which brings together Albert and Michel Roux, those two legends of French cuisine. Unmissable.

Over in Westminster, 51 Buckingham Gate

bmi recommends...

(www.51-buckinghamgate.com) has both hotel and

London hotels have always taken the Full English

serviced suite accommodation. It’s just around the

Breakfast very seriously – but they are also branching

corner from Buckingham Palace – so it’s handy for

out and providing more imaginative, less calorific

those popping in for tea with the Queen.

alternatives in an attempt to gain an edge over the

Zesty, hypermodern ‘urban spa’ The Sanderson

competition. There are some superb hotel breakfasts

(www.sandersonlondon.com) has been designed by

on offer across the city. Some extraordinary options

Philippe Starck and built around a beautiful garden.

picked out in a recent survey by Londonhotelsinsight.

If you’re bored of classic London luxury, this is an

com include lobster club sandwiches At The Lancaster

eye-opening and exciting place to stay.

London (you can also enjoy honey made in their

Finally, one of our all-time favourites is the

rooftop hive); Haddock Monte Carlo at the Ritz

Stafford London by Kempinski (www.Kempinski.

London; grilled sourdough topped with barbecue

com). It has all the charm, style and elegance a

mushrooms and Gorgonzola at the Zetter Hotel; and

discerning traveller could want, plus imaginative

miso soup at the Langham.

ideas that make it stand out from the crowd.

London 101

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Regional SaleS & MaR ke t i n g of f i ce – Me & g cc tel: 00971 2 499561 3 e Mai l : t h e May f ai Rl o n d on@i nS i ghtS M c .c oM theMayfaiRhot e l .co .uk Regional SaleS & MaR ke t i n g of f i ce – Me & g cc tel: 00971 2 499561 3 e Mai l : t h e May f ai Rl o n d on@i nS i ghtS M c .c oM theMayfaiRhot e l .co .uk

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The Shopping London is one of the greatest shopping centres on earth, as much for the sheer diversity of choice as for the quality. If you try to cover all of the major shopping districts you’ll be exhausted in no time – so pick one store or area and shop til you drop from there...

The one and a half mile long Oxford Street is the

Regent Street (also home to world famous toy store

heart of London’s shopping experience. Along this

Hamleys), is Liberty, which is regularly voted the

lengthy boulevard you will find flagship stores of

best place to shop in the city. Housed in a timber-

designer and high-street brands alike, running from

clad Tudor building, it is – along with Harrods

Marble Arch at one end to Tottenham Court Road at

in Knightsbridge – London’s most upmarket

the other. You could happily spend a couple of days

department store. The lovely thing about Liberty is

working your way through all the options – and

that you won’t find most of their products on sale

many people do exactly that. Particular highlights

elsewhere – they source everything uniquely, which

include the enormous John Lewis store, the gigantic

means you can pick up a real one-off item. A visit

Top Shop, Nike Town, expansive Debenhams, House

to Harrods, meanwhie, remains obligatory. And if

of Fraser, Zara, Primark and Gap.

you don’t want to mingle with the crowds, try the

One store that deserves particular mention

store’s personal shopping service, By Appointment,

is Selfridge’s, a vast, multi-layered temple of

where a team of in-the-know personal consultants

commercialism, where the service is personal and

will guide both men and women towards the most

the products feel like they’ve been picked out

extravagant of purchases in-store and out.

just for you by a particularly stylish friend. Major

If you prefer working your way round a series

standouts include 7 For All Mankind, Alexander

of small spots rather than hitting the big flagships

McQueen, Diane von Furstenberg, J Brand, Joseph,

and department stores, you’ll love shopping in

Juicy Couture, Karen Millen and Marc by Marc

Covent Garden. Centred around a large square

Jacobs. Men, meanwhile, will love the array of great

lined with cool and offbeta shops, Covent Garden

chaps’ boutiques – set them loose on Alexander

has a market at its centre where quirky gift stores

McQueen, Barbour, Death by Zero, G Star, Hugo

and imaginative food shops share space with up-

Boss, Lyle & Scott, Paul Smith and Ralph Lauren.

and-coming jewellery designers and vendors of

Not far from Selfridge’s, on the intersecting

sweet-smelling bath products. Shopping in Covent

London 101

13

Clockwise from left: Camden Market; Camden High Street; Portobello Road.

‘Away from the city’s department stores, Vivienne Westwood, at World’s End along the King’s Road, is a sight to behold’ Garden is a real experience – there are always street

Arpels, Tiffany, De Beers, Aspreys and Boodles.

performers and entertainers, including actors who

Bond Street is also the home of renowned auction

dress up as metallic statues, fire breathers and

house Sotheby’s, which sells sculptures, paintings,

daredevil jugglers. There are also tons of brilliant

handicrafts, jewellery and musical instruments from

cafes and restaurants where you can stop and

around the world. You are welcome to go in and

compare purchases over a delicious bite to eat.

look at the exhibition of their upcoming auctions

One of Covent Garden’s most popular spots is

– a lovely way to spend an hour or two. And if

the Apple Store. Open for just a matter of months,

it’s clothing you’re after, why not pop in to Gucci,

it is home to all the very latest products from the

Burberry or Ralph Lauren?

Californian computing giant. It is a highly interactive

Westfield caused quite a stir in West London

place, where visitors are encouraged to play with

when it opened a couple of years ago. Until then

the computers, listen to music on the iPads, and

there had been no major mall on offer, so shoppers

surf the net on iPhones. Upstairs there is a software

were delighted at the arrival of this huge and

store selling all the programs you need to get

beautiful centre. It will remind you of a mall in Dubai

started, as well as a Mac surgery where you can

in terms of its design and layout – lots of light, open

take a lesson in how to get the most out of your

space, big atriums and streets, and plenty of public

new computer, or bring in a faulty one for repair.

space to relax in. Westfield does a particularly good

Bond Street has long been synonymous with

line in children’s fashion, but it is also brilliant for

opulence, wealth and beautiful jewellery. It is the

adult designerware – don’t miss out on the “Village”

London base for the world’s biggest and oldest

section, where you will find House of Fraser and

jewellery brands, including Cartier, Van Kleef and

dozens of smaller boutiques all clustered together.

14

London 101

Left: Selfridges.

Below: Soho.

When it comes to relaxation, there is a great ice-

You can specify the design of your choice, but

skating rink and a large cinema plus an al fresco

you’re better off taking direction from the on-site

strip of restaurants including Jamie Oliver’s famous

experts, who can match your footwear with your

Italian outpost.

lovely new suit. Meanwhile, if your tastes are more

If you’re looking for a long-lasting souvenir of

funky than traditional, you should check out Black

your time in London, why not head over to Savile

Truffle in Broadway Market, which has an unusual

Row? It has long been the home of the city’s most

and eclectic mix of boots, sandals, loafers, wedges

talented tailors, who will measure you up and

trainers and Mary Janes - as well as a selection of

create a bespoke suit for you in just a few days.

vegan shoes.

You can choose from the most astonishing spread

Borough Market deserves its own dedicated

of different materials – although the classic choice

entry for having established itself as one of the

would be a pinstripe – and the service makes you

foodie centres of London town. Every Friday

feel like you’re an archduke for the day. It’s not just

and Saturday throughout the year its winding

men who can get fitted up – there are also tailors

alleyways are filled with dozens and dozens of

who create beautiful suits for women.

stalls selling everything from gourmet pies and

Once you have secured your new outfit you’ll

specialty cheeses to roast beef baguettes and the

need some high-quality shoes to go with it. Look

world’s best banana cake. You could very happily

no further than Church’s – the cobbler of choice

spend two hours munching your way around this

for generations of high-powered executives

marvellous market, trying scores of samples from

and blue-blooded aristocrats. The shoes are of

the friendly and talkative stall owners, and loading

such high quality that they come with a lifetime

your bags down with unmissable and intriguing

guarantee – take them back at any time and they

treats from the four corners of the UK. This is also

will be re-soled for you at no extra cost. This means

the perfect refuelling spot for anyone spending the

that while the initial investment is high, in the

morning at the Tate modern – it’s just 10 minutes

long-term the shoes end up paying for themselves.

walk away along the Thames.

16

London 101

Left: Harrod’s; Below: Westfield shopping centre.

Earlham Street - they also do great posters.

With branches across London, high-class perfumerie Penhaligon’s has been in business since the 1870s. It’s the most fantastic place for gift shopping – there are none of your celebrity A more refined foodie shopping experience is on offer at Fortnum & Mason in Piccadilly, the food hall par excellence and the ideal place to go if you need

scents here, just wonderfully exotic and mysterious colognes whose recipes stretch back centuries.

Naturally, they come beautifully wrapped.

a gourmet gift that’s guaranteed to impress. One of the most popular items on sale in the classic food hamper – you can construct your ideal mix of luxury gourmet goods according to the tastes of the lucky recipient, and it will all be brought together in a collectable wicker basket, stamped with the name of the store.

Bibliophiles will fall in love instantly with Charing

bmi recommends...

If you’re short on time and have some specific shopping

Cross Road. Filled from top to tail with beautiful

you need to get done while you’re in London, why not

bookstores, this road is the place to come to stock

use one of the personal shopping services offered by

up your library. Whether you’re shopping for new

most of the big department stores? They can help you

books at the gigantic Foyles or Blackwells, or

cut out hours of trawling round the shops and give

browsing through ancient tomes in the myriad

you expert personal recommendations which will

second-hand stores, you’re sure to find plenty of

save you time - and maybe even money too. There

exciting possibilities. The small streets which spider

is a dedicated personal shopping service at House

off Charing Cross Road are worth exploring too. On

of Fraser, which also offers a complimentary style

them you’ll find bookstores specialising in the most

consultation; at Harrods, the BY APPOINTMENT and

beautiful old books, prints and maps. While a trip

Beyond services help you get to grips with their seven

down these alleyways may prove expensive, it will

sprawling floors of products; and at Liberty, they offer

do wonders for your intellect and general sense of

a service which prides itself on its personal approach

wellbeing. And for a beautifully-curated selection of

and honest advice.

magazines, make sure to stop by Magma Books on London 101

17

The Restaurants

In London you can eat your way around the world without going outside the M25 – and whether it’s cute independent delis, exotic far eastern eateries or high profile celebrity chef haunts you love, you’ll find your perfect place here.

When picking restaurants to try in London, many visitors head straight for one of Gordon

nitrogen-fuelled ice cream cart does the rounds for dessert.

Ramsay’s clutch of outlets. It’s certainly true

From the experimental to the hyper-traditional:

that they offer wonderful food and excellent

Rules restaurant (020 7836 5314) is an incredible

service – provided you don’t accidentally irritate

treat for anybody who loves fine old English food.

their famously shoutie owner. Gordon Ramsay

Rules is London’s oldest restaurant and has been

at Claridge’s (020 7499 0099) and Petrus (020

a haunt for the great and good for centuries. Its

7592 1609) are both fantastic dining options, but

decoration reminds you of the gentlemen’s clubs

once you’ve paid homage to the master of Hell’s

described in Jeeves and Wooster novels, and the

Kitchen, you’ll find there are hundreds of other

food is similarly decadent. All the key ingredients

exciting restaurants to choose from.

come from Rules’ very own estate in Scotland,

Take Dinner by Heston Blumenthal at the

and they are of superb quality. Expect to enjoy the

Mandarin Oriental (020 7201 3833), for example,

likes of delicious tender roast beef with enormous

one of the most exciting new restaurants to open

Yorkshire puddings, brackish potted shrimp and

in 2011. Famous for his outlandish creations at

the best steak and oyster pies in the country.

the Fat Duck in Bray, Blumenthal has now turned

If you prefer traditional French to traditional

his attentions to the capital. The views out over

British, try Poule au Pot (020 7730 7763), a rustic

Hyde Park are fantastic, but even better is the

French eatery just off Sloane Square. This is the

extraordinary mix of historic English dishes which

place to try out some specialities you’ve always

populate the menu. Heston has ploughed through

wanted to taste but haven’t been brave enough.

dozens of centuries-old recipe books to create

The bouillabaisse is a particular star, filled with

dishes such as the Meat Fruit – which looks exactly

tender juicy fish and set in a sauce so dramatically

like an orange despite the fact that it’s made of

powerful it ought to receive an Oscar. The

a delicate chicken liver mousse. Other creations

rabbit cooked in three different ways is another

include spiced pigeon and taffety tart, and a

unmissable event.

18

London 101

A second French brasserie of note is Les Deux Salons (020 7420 2050), run by the same

wave take on Italian cuisine is unstoppably good.

Another European favourite is Chez Bruce

team who operate the ever-excellent Arbutus

(020 8672 0114). Getting there means a little

(020 7734 4545). Open for just a few months,

bit of a trek out of central London, but it’s well

it has already become the restaurant of choice

worth the visit to Wandsworth. One of Britain’s

for businessmen entertaining clients in Soho.

most talented and least feted chefs, Bruce runs

It’s a reliable choice if you’re in the mood for a

a surprisingly affordable gourmet establishment

steak-frites, cassoulet or a pot of delicious moules

which Gordon Ramsay has cited as one of his

marinieres. The dining room is decked out in the

favourites. Whether you go for one of the special

very best Parisian style with plenty of gleaming

menus or strike out with à la carte, you can be

chrome, comfy banquettes and polished mirrors.

assured of eating some of the most sophisticated

Meanwhile if you find yourself with a craving for

European food in Britain. At the weekends CB is

gallic cuisine when in West London, you should

filled with local families and is a lovely place to go

try the superb La Trompette (020 8747 1836),

with your kids.

which has a name for its sumptuous seafood and bafflingly extensive cheeseboard.

For more modern European fare, hit The

When you can’t resist your carnivorous cravings, take your appetite from meat to Covent Garden where you will find Sophie’s Steakhouse

River Cafe (020 7386 4200), the place where

(020 7836 8836). The meat here is served in

Jamie Oliver got his big break on camera. It is

outrageously large portions – last time we dined

restlessly inventive with its dishes, updating its

at Sophie’s we worked our way through a 32

menus on a near constant basis, and putting

ounce steak with three separate trimmings. There

out regular cookbooks which grace the kitchen

are plenty of other options, including lobster and

shelves of well-to-do amateur chefs across the

some particularly fine gourmet burgers but the

country. Similarly brilliant is Theo Randall at the

real must-try here is the sirloin, fillet and T-bone

InterContinental (020 7318 8747), whose new

section. Beware when ordering side dishes here – London 101

19

A NEW ANGLE ON URBAN LUXURY

Completely redesigned for the 21st century, the London Marriott Grosvenor Square offers an experience no other hotel can match. Step out of your suite and bask by the ďŹ replace in your own private garden. Take in a West End show or indulge in the boutiques of Mayfair. Revel in the spacious luxury of our exclusive Club Lounge. Or enjoy exquisite dining from Gordon Ramsay at Michelin-starred maze, the relaxed maze Grill, exclusive Private Dining or even in your room.

Experience the shape of hotels to come.

The London Marriott Hotel, Grosvenor Square, London W1K 6JP For hotel bookings T: +44 (0) 20 7493 1232 F: +44 (0) 20 7514 1528

For Gordon Ramsay dining reservations maze: +44 (0) 20 7107 0000 maze Grill: +44 (0) 20 7495 2211

marriottgrosvenorsquare.com

Previous page: Petrus.

This page from left to right: Les Deux Salons; Pasta dish with sweet peppers, feta cheese and olives.

they come in portions suitable for the BFG. There’s some brilliant Italian cuisine in London – and many people will tell you that Bocca di Lupo (020 7734 2223) is the best Italian

edged base, rich, powerful tomato sauce, highquality mozzarella, and a sprinkling of the most deliciously fresh toppings.

If you’re in the mood for a relaxed Saturday

restaurant around. It’s certainly a contender, but

or Sunday lunch by the Thames, make your way

we’ve recently been won over by a less obvious

to Tom’s Kitchen in Somerset House (0207 845

choice. London is remarkably short on Sardinian

4646). This elongated restaurant is split into

restaurants, in fact there’s only one – Sardo (020

several different sunlit dining rooms, all of which

7387 2521) – which is tucked away down a side

have brilliant views out over the river. The menu

road by Warren Street tube station. Happily, it

is simple and crammed with classic comfort food.

does the island’s cuisine full justice. Start with

Whether you order Tom’s burger, the enormous

the exquisite fish carpaccio then move on to one

fish and chips or the delicate beetroot and feta

of their rich, warming risottos and finish with a

salad, you’ll be delighted with your choice. There

battery of Sardinian cheeses: bliss.

are always fascinating exhibitions going on at

Meanwhile, when it comes to pizza there is

Somerset house too, so once you’ve polished

categorically no better place to visit then Franco

off a sticky toffee pudding and enjoyed a freshly

Manca. There are two branches of this legendary

brewed coffee, you can wander downstairs for

pizzeria in London – the small original outlet in

some cultural enlightenment.

Brixton market (0207 738 3021), and the more

Another great place if you’re in the mood for

sophisticated restaurant on Chiswick High Street

a quick and delicious gourmet dinner is Busaba

(020 8747 4822). The pizza they serve is cooked

Eathai (020 7255 8686), situated on Wardour

in authentic woodfired ovens, and has that

Street. Diners sit at long shared wooden tables

perfect mix of chewy, slightly charred and crisp

and order from a marvellous mix of noodles, Thai London 101

21

‘If you prefer your Thai food gourmet, rather than cheap and cheerful, you should book yourself in for an evening at Nahm’ curries and stir fries. The thing that really gets our

experienced at dinner time, when the low lighting,

gourmet pulse jumping, though, is the prospect of

beautiful bar, and slick decoration come into

the house special; calamari cooked in garlic and a

their own. While you could happily limit yourself

marvellous spice mix it has a flavour so good that

to just dim sum, this would be a mistake – the

if you order a bowl to share you may well fall out

imaginative dishes from across China are perfectly

with your dining companion over who gets the

prepared – we still have very happy memories of

last piece.

their unbeatable Peking duck.

Meanwhile, if you prefer your Thai food

If you have not yet had the opportunity to

gourmet, rather than cheap and cheerful, you

experience Nobu’s (020 7290 9222) greatness

should book yourself in for an evening at Nahm

in his Dubai restaurant at Atlantis, The Palm,

at the Halkin (020 7333 1234), the city’s only

you simply must make time to visit the London

Michelin-starred Thai restaurant. For Vietnamese

chapter. Nobu’s modern Japanese cuisine is so

food, try Pho (020 7253 7624), a small but

exciting that it has spawned a host of imitators,

perfectly-formed eatery in Clerkenwell, where

but there’s still no one who does it quite as well

there’s often a queue streaming out the door in a

as him. The sushi, maki, yakitori grills and slivers

bid to sample the gorgeous rice paper rolls and

of beef carpaccio are all outstanding, but the

immaculate noodle soups, its stock in trade.

real gourmet crown goes to the highly popular

For Chinese food, it has to be Hakasan (020 7927 7000), a Michelin-starred restaurant in the heart of Soho. It’s known for having some of the best dim sum this side of Hong Kong and is best 22

London 101

black cod in miso sauce, a creation of genius with multiple seams of rich flavour.

Another intriguing spot is the Afghan Kitchen (020 7359 8019) in Islington. It’s a no-nonsense

Opposite page: The River Cafe. This page clockwise from bottom left: Hakkasan; Chez Bruce; Crab at Petrus; Dinner by Heston Blumenthal.

halal eatery with a swift turnaround in a

Edgware Road, an avenue lined with an unfeasible

surprisingly basic space whose menu is short and

number of Middle Eastern eateries and where the

offers little diversity and whose service can be

Lebanese food is particularly good.

disconcertingly abrupt. Despite all this it remains one of Islington’s most popular restaurants, with devotees returning regularly to experience the authentic cuisine – make sure to order one of their last loaves of shareable bread with your meal. You can also get excellent halal food at Pasha (020

bmi recommends...

7589 7969), a Moroccan restaurant in Kensington.

One dining trend that’s becoming increasingly popular is

When it comes to gourmet areas, Exmouth

the phenomenon of chefs’ tables. Book in to one of these

Market is one of those streets that in the know

and you’ll eat at a special table in the kitchen, surrounded

Londoners rave about. It’s lined with outstanding

by all the action, and will have the dishes described and

restaurants and cafes, including Caravan (020

presented to you by the chef, who will also join you for

7833 8115), The Ambassador (020 7837 0009)

part of the meal. You’ll find this service on offer at many

and Sade (020 7833 1111), but none has a better

restaurants - some of the most prestigious are at Marcus

reputation than Moro (020 7833 8336). The tables

Wareing at the Berkeley (www.the-berkeley.co.uk),

here are packed closely together and every night

Gordon Ramsay at The London (www.gordonramsay.

they are filled with happy diners enjoying its

com) and Dinner by Heston Blumenthal (www.

imaginative Moroccan–Mediterranean cuisine.

dinnerbyheston.com).

Another district beloved by true gourmets is London 101

23

The Culture You could happily spend an entire holiday wandering round the tens of thousands of exhibits in London’s key museums and cultural spaces alone – but that wouldn’t leave you enough time for shopping, beautiful meals and sightseeing. Allow us to pick out the best for you...

The British capital is blessed with the world’s

ranging from the genre–twistingly bizarre to the

very finest collection of museums. That’s no

frustratingly pretentious – check out the ripped

mere hyperbole – while others can boast bigger

canvas entitled ‘Ripped canvas’ – to the sublimely

museums, more modern museums and wealthier

beautiful on display.

museums, London takes the trophy in terms of

If you like your art more traditional, get

sheer range and quality. There’s even a dedicated

yourself over to Tate Britain, a repository of the

Museum of London.

nation’s finest artists over the last millennium

If you’re making a priority list, then these are

or so. Like the Tate Modern, entrance is free of

the cultural icons that should be at the very top.

charge, although visitors are encouraged to

Let’s start with the Tate Modern. Housed in a

give a donation. The best way to get between

former power station on the south bank of the

the two Tates is by taking the dedicated Tate

Thames, this soaring redbrick creation has become

riverboat, which will motor you from modernism

famed for the incredible interactive displays in

to traditionalism in around 20 minutes.

its voluminous turbine Hall. Most recently the hall

Once you’re at the Tate Modern you are just

has been filled with tens of millions of ceramic

a short walk away from the National Portrait

sunflower seeds created by Chinese artist Ai

Gallery. Perched on the side of Trafalgar Square,

Weiwei, but in the past it has also been blessed

this labyrinthine institution is dedicated to

with a huge fake crack which seemed to split the

collecting portraits of famous and esteemed faces

concrete floor from end to end, a ceiling filled

from around the world. These range from galleries

with mirrors, which encouraged visitors to lie on

filled with pictures of 16th century dukes and earls

their backs and make shapes at the sky, and a

to corridors lined with stunning photographs of

series of fairground-style, whirly-go-rounds which

modern day celebrities. Make sure not to miss out

visitors could use to plummet from the fifth floor

on Lucien Freud’s famous – and, some would say,

to the ground. Once you’re beyond the entrance

rather unflattering – portrait of her Majesty the

hall, you’ll find floor upon floor of modern art

Queen.

24

London 101

Clockwise from left: The Imperial War Museum; Tate Britain; Shakespeare’s Globe.

If history is more your thing, there is nowhere

to wear while roaming the war rooms – he had

more fascinating than the Cabinet War Rooms.

decided that if he was going to work 18 hours a

It was from this nest of small chambers buried

day, he wanted to be comfortable doing it. But

underneath Whitehall that Churchill and his

his eccentricity did not stop there – legend has it

ministers directed the early years of the Second

that during the Blitz, and much to the horror of

World War. The first thing that strikes you about

his staff, Churchill used to climb onto the roof of

the War Rooms is that they are incredibly small

this building to watch the bombs rain down on

and equipped with technology so basic – maps

London. This is the sort of exhibit which gives you

with pins in them, banks of different-coloured

a major insight into what it is possible to achieve

telephones – that you have to marvel at the fact

in one human life.

that this small band of planners could control their

While the undisputed hero of 20th-century

Army and Navy at a distance, let alone end up

Britain brought us the joys of the Cabinet War

winning the conflict. Attach to the Cabinet War

Rooms, it was the Victorians who really laid down

Rooms is the Churchill Museum, which is filled

Britain’s major cultural heritage. This acquisitive

with intriguing artefacts from the war leader’s

race spent their reign and their influence dashing

war years. Churchill had an extraordinary life,

round the world picking up interesting objects –

perhaps best captured in a cartoon on display

sometimes much to the upset of the people who

here, which shows the man on his 90th birthday

originally owned them. Nowhere is this better in

being toasted by versions of himself throughout

evidence than at the British Museum, a repository

the years – the journalist, the soldier, the junior

for pilfered items from across the British Empire.

minister, the opposition MP, and the cigar–toting

The museum’s architecture is a mix of sturdy

elder statesman. There is also the adult sized

Victorian stone and the beautiful glass dome

romper suit that Churchill commissioned and used

and open marble area created by legendary London 101

25

‘If you like your art more traditional, get yourself over to Tate Britain, a repository of the nation’s finest artists’ architect Sir Norman Foster. Spend the morning

collect their thoughts. Although if you really want

wandering round and you will lose yourself in

to see an impressive book collection, you should

ancient Roman sculptures, Egyptian mummies,

head to the British Library, whose dozens of

Far Eastern pottery and Middle Eastern jewellery,

reading rooms are open to the public, and which

all lovingly presented and documented. If you’re

regularly hosts fascinating exhibitions on books

feeling peckish halfway through, make a stop at

and language.

the excellent restaurant that sits just underneath Foster’s cupola.

Another fascinating cultural treasure trove is the Imperial War Museum. Located south of the

Further demonstration of the acquisitive nature

river by Elephant and Castle, this place will give

of the Victorians is on show at the V&A. You can’t

you a crash course in the many and varied wars

help but marvel at the shere number of exhibits on

engaged in by the British nation over the years.

offer here. Alongside sculpture and painting there

The main hall is filled with war ambulances from

is the most fantastic permanent exhibit of royal

the First World War, V2 rockets from the Second,

jewellery from around the world, a treasure trove

tanks and planes used in the Falklands, and

of sparkling gems and precious metals that makes

armoured personnel carriers from Gulf War One.

you wonder whether the British government

There are superb permanent exhibitions on the

couldn’t sort out their deficit issue by simply

First World War, including a ‘Trench Experience’

selling it off. There’s also a grand cafe whose

where you can get a taste for the horrors of

roof is covered in intricate imperial mosaics, and

Flanders, as well as wonderful collections

a lovely old reading room lined with five-tier

of personal memorabilia, propaganda, and

mahogany bookcases, where visitors can stop and

audiovisual clips.

26

London 101

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Previous page; National Portrait Gallery. This page from left: The Tate Modern and Millennium Bridge; British Museum.

‘When it comes to entertainment, you should make sure to book tickets for the Royal Opera house, which regularly hosts some of the world’s biggest names in opera and ballet’ Over at the Science Museum, meanwhile, you

Finally, for a relaxed and engaging visit which

can get a similarly in-depth briefing on major

all the family can enjoy, make a beeline for the

science and technology breakthroughs of the

Cartoon Museum. The UK has a long and infamous

last century. This place is a major favourite with

history of cartooning, satire and caricature, and

families, as it’s home to the Wellcome Wing, which

it’s all housed here, where the sheer level of skill

has been designed to get kids excited about

on display is simply amazing.

science, with a host of interactive displays.

Another place your kids will love is the Clink Prison Museum situated down on the South Bank near Borough Market. This spooky spot stands on the site of the notorious former prison and gives a gruesome vision of what used to happen to

bmi recommends...

naughty Victorians. Kids will also love the brilliant

If you’re tired of the pace of life in the heart of the

Sherlock Holmes Museum located, naturally, at

city, why not calm things down with a lovely boat trip

221B Baker Street.

out to Greenwich? Thames River Services (www.

When it comes to entertainment, you should

thamesriverservices.co.uk) run regular trips to the area,

make sure to book tickets for the Royal Opera

picking up from multiple stops en route. Once you arrive,

house, which regularly hosts some of the world’s

you’ll find a less crowded, more relaxed place with plenty

biggest names in opera and ballet. You’d also

to do. The biggest attraction is the Royal Observatory,

be well advised to book tickets in advance for a

home to the meridian line, the fascinating National

coveted performance at Shakespeare’s Globe, the

Maritime Museum and the beautiful 180 acre-large

beautiful re-creation of the great Bard’s original

Greenwich Park.

Playhouse.

28

London 101

The Sights The Big Smoke is a living museum – everywhere you go you’ll see ancient buildings sitting cheek by jowl with sleek modern architecture. Be sure to bring a spare memory card – you’ll want to fill your camera up with pictures.

The seat of Her Majesty the Queen, Buckingham

enchanting old monuments – including tributes to

Palace is an iconic building and an unmissable stop

the fallen in pretty much every British battle for

on any self-respecting tourist’s visit. You can book

the last millenium (which is a lot). In order to get

up to take a guided tour of the State Rooms on

the most out of the Abbey, you should book a tour

certain days, which gives you a wonderful insight

guide, who will give you some fantastic insights its

into the grandeur and pageantry of royal life. You

rich history.

must make sure to be around for one of the regular

If you’re looking to sit back, people watch and

‘changing of the guard’ ceremonies, too, when

soak up a little atmosphere, grab yourself a seat at

soldiers dressed in breastplates and ceremonial hats

Trafalgar Square. This great imperial square at the

march their way to and from their guardposts. Once

heart of London is the site of all of the city’s big

you’re done checking out the heart of royal London,

demonstrations and celebrations. At its centre is

take a wander in the surrounding St James’s Park,

the 150 foot high Nelson’s column, topped with an

which leads you up through leafy greenery to

18 foot tall statue of Horatio Nelson, Britain’s most

Westminster Abbey.

famous Navy man. The four huge lions at the base

The Abbey was originally founded in the 7th

of the column were supposedly cast from bronze

century and has gone through several different

cannons which were taken from the French fleet

incarnations. It is the place in which British kings

during the Battle of Trafalgar. Directly behind you

and queens are married, crowned and buried and

is the wonderful National Gallery, and to your left is

saw the coronations of King Harold and William

the Strand, a famous old shopping street.

the Conqueror, both in 1066. Queen Elizabeth was

Up north, tacked on to the gigantic Regent’s

married to Philip, Duke of Edinburgh here, as were –

Park – which is worth an afternoon’s walkaround in

more recently – Prince William and Kate Middleton.

itself, with its lovely gardens and waterway as well

Aside from the centuries-old whiff of history

as its own dedicated theatre where great al fresco

that greets you when you enter, there are a lot of

plays take place in summertime – is London Zoo,

beautiful stained glass windows to see, and some

one of the biggest and best zoos in Europe. The London 101

29

Clockwise from left: Westminster Abbey; Trafalgar Square; Buckingham Palace’s famous guards.

‘If you’re looking to sit back, people watch and soak up a little atmosphere, grab yourself a seat at Trafalgar Square’ entrance fee is hefty – but it’s worth every penny.

quarter, and accompanied by a trained guide, you’ll

The layout is simple – follow the paths and you’ll be

get to see the key parts of the building, including

led around enclosures of giraffes, zebras, baboons,

the debating chambers of the Commons and the

penguins and more, as well as petrifying collections

Lords, Westminster Hall and the Queen’s Robing

of bugs, spiders and snakes, and a charming

Room: all essential for history buffs. And of course,

walk-in butterfly room where the air is thick with

you mustn’t miss out on seeing Big Ben, the famous

kaleidoscopic wings. An unmissable attraction,

clock tower (or rather the bell which lies at its

particularly if you have kids in tow.

heart) and taking a walk up its spiralling staircase.

Set in another lovely park, Kensington Palace

When it comes to Victorian splendour, there’s

is the former official residence of Diana Princess

nothing to match The Albert Hall, a redbrick beauty

of Wales (and the dedicated Diana Memorial

which is one of London’s most prestigious venues.

Playground is just nearby). Many parts of the Palace

The best way to see it is at a concert – as you listen

are currently unaccessible due to building works

to the music you can take in the huge vaulting

but the state rooms, which are open, have been

ceilings, the rich red drapery and the gilt lining

taken over by a fascinating art experiment entitled

that trims all the walls. There are also regular tours

‘The Enchanted Palace’, a mysterious experience

of the Hall, which take you behind the scenes and

which showcases modern fashion and art.

give you access to the Queen’s Box and the Royal

The icon of British democracy and the heart of

Retiring Room.

the UK government is Parliament, comprised of

The hub of the UK’s financial power is The

the House of Commons and the House of Lords.

City, and at its heart lies The Bank of England.

You can sign up for an organised tour on Saturdays

You can’t take a tour of the bank itself, but you

and during the ‘Summer Opening’. In an hour and a

can visit the Bank of England Museum which has

Clockwise from left: London Eye; Kensington Palace garden; Tower Bridge.

rafts of extraordinary treasures, including ancient

wheel is worth stopping off to visit – the queues

banknotes, furniture, statues and silver.

can be huge, but it’s worth the wait as you float up

Another venerable institution – and one which

into the sky for a bird’s eye view out over the city.

has had a more infamous history than the Bank of England – is the Tower of London. A thousand year old fortress, the tower has been a palace, a prison, a royal mint and even a zoo. Three queens of England have been beheaded here, and hundreds of political prisoners locked up inside. A guided tour will give

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you all the background you need to understand

If you’ve got a lot of sights to cover and you prefer being

the place – and will take you to see the wonderful

out in the fresh air, why not rent a bike to get between

Crown Jewels.

cultural icons? The introduction of London’s bike hire

At the heart of London, of course, is The River

scheme, known affectionately as ‘Boris Bikes’ after the

Thames, a sight to behold in itself as well as

city’s scruffy-haired mayor Boris Johnson, has been a

offering a great way to get about. Numerous tourist

roaring success. You’ll see banks of bikes on every other

boats ply this historic waterway, picking up and

street corner - just swipe your credit card to release one,

dropping off from Westminster Pier, Tower Pier and

cycle off and when you reach your destination you can

Greenwhich Pier and as you float along you’ll see

park it in a nearby holding bay. You can cycle for half an

– and pass under – the magnificent Tower Bridge.

hour for free, which should be plenty to get you between

During your waterborne jaunt, you’ll also catch sight

destinations. And the bikes themselves are rather good -

of the riverfront London Eye, a relatively recent

sturdy and well built, with good lights.

addition to the city’s skyline. This outsized ferris London 101

31

WIN! A three-night stay at The Stafford London, by Kempinski For a slice of quintessential English style in the heart of the capital, look no further than the elegant surrounds of the historic Stafford London. Nestled in a peaceful patch behind Green Park (and a stone’s throw from busy Piccadilly), the hotel’s main house takes up residence within three 17th century townhouses, while the adjacent Stafford Mews host myriad suites in a courtyard setting. Take advantage of the hotel’s central location with a mammoth shopping trip to some of the top streets in town – Bond Street, Jermyn Street and Regent Street – before taking in a West End show.

And, when you’re ready for a bite, make your way back to The Stafford London’s fine dining restaurant. It’s sublime.

THE PRIZE We’re giving away a three-night stay for two in a deluxe room in the hotel’s main house, including a full English breakfast daily. To be in with a chance of winning, email your answer to the question below to easywin@hotmediapublishing.com before May 31, 2011.

Q. Which park is located close to The Stafford London? a. Hyde Park b. Green Park c. Upton Park Terms and conditions: Prize is subject to availability at the time of booking.

Prize must be claimed within 12 months after winner is notified.

32

London 101

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