London Guide July'13

we love

Lon don

Hotels / Culture / Shops / Sights / Activities / Restaurants

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World Traveller // We Love London

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Welcome to

London There has never been a better time to visit the UK capital. After upping its game for the London Olympics, the city shows no sign of stopping: with its cultural energy, great new restaurants and world-famous array of historic hotels, the party’s still in full swing. Whether you’re a seasoned traveller or first-time adventurer, the magic of London never fails to delight...

Contents

3 City 6 Hotels 12 Shopping 16 Restaurants 21 Culture 28 Sights

About this guide Our writers have explored every corner of London and selected its top spots – so you can pack the best of the bunch into your break.

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Managing Director

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Mayfair is the heart of London.

Brown’s is in the heart of Mayfair.

Brown’s Hotel personifies modern British luxury, with outstanding personal service, elegant rooms and suites, award-winning afternoon tea and a relaxing spa.

The Donovan Bar and HIX Mayfair celebrate British art and cuisine, offering the perfect London experience.

Albemarle Street, London, W1S 4BP Tel: 020 7493 6020 Fax: 020 7493 9381 E-Mail: reservations.browns@roccofortehotels.com www.roccofortehotels.com Luxury Hotels and Resorts

Berlin, Brussels, Edinburgh, Florence, Frankfurt, London, Manchester, Munich, Rome, St Petersburg, Sicily.

Future Openings: Cairo, Jeddah, Luxor, Marrakech

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The

EssEntials All you need to know

Getting There Qantas flies direct from Dubai to London Heathrow seven times a day in its new flagship Airbus 380 fleet.

The journey takes roughly seven hours. To book, contact dnata (+971 4 316 6666, dnatatravel.com)

Getting Around

sound as a pound

The UK currency is the Pound (£). There are roughly 5.6 UAE Dirhams, Saudi Arabia Riyals and Qatar Riyals to one Pound.

The City

Over 190,000 passengers arrive and depart through Heathrow every day, so there are plenty of ways to get to and from the airport. The fastest way to get into central London is by train: Heathrow Express services take around 15 minutes to get to Paddington Station, and depart from the airport every 15 minutes. You can also head into the city on the Underground (pick up the Piccadilly Line), coach (National Express provides a regular service to Victoria Station, nationalexpress.com), taxi (metered cabs are available from ranks at the airport, and take around 40 minutes/£70 to get to Central London), or airport pickup by selected hotels.

If you’ll be covering ground on public transport, you can’t go wrong with an Oyster Card – a prepaid card available from all transport hubs which offers the best fares on Underground, rail and bus journeys.

The public transport network is vast, and you’ll find route maps for each service in ticket offices at all stations.

For a door-to-door service, taxis are readily available (you’ll find hubs all over the city, and services can be booked too). If the yellow sign at the top of the cab is illuminated, it’s available to hire.

Active types will love the Barclays Cycle Hire service, or ‘Boris Bikes’ (an affectionate nickname after the Mayor of London, Boris Johnson), which can be picked up from outlets all over the capital. See tfl.gov.uk for comprehensive guidance on all modes of transport.

Visas You’ll need the correct visa to enter the UK – the type (and application process) will depend on your nationality, purpose of your trip, and the duration. For all the details, check ukba.homeoffice.gov.uk

Language English is, of course, the main language spoken in London, but while you’re here keep your ears pinned back for Cockney rhyming slang.

Unique to London, it’s a colourful jargon that cab drivers and born-andbred Londoners like to revert to – much to visitors’ bewilderment.

Apples and Pears - Stairs (“Your room’s just up the Apples and Pears”) Butcher’s Hook - Look (“Give us a Butcher’s at the Tube map”).

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A City for

all sEasons Rain or shine, there’s always something to do

london in numbErs

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Number of Michelin stars London had to its name at last count

Spring

Summer

From February to May, the city’s parks and gardens come to life.

Spend your days exploring London’s green spaces – see wild flowers in Hyde Park, take to the river-side Thames Path on ‘Boris Bikes’ (tfl. gov.uk), and let kids run wild on nature trails through the glorious Kew Gardens (kew.org).

In June, July and August, London is at its most temperate: now is the time to catch open-air festivals, concerts and theatrics. Top spots include The Scoop (morelondon. com) for al fresco theatre, and Covent Garden Market for edgeof-your-seat street performances (coventgardenlondonuk.com).

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Distance (in miles) from which Big Ben’s chimes can be heard

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Autumn

Winter

When the leaves of Hyde Park’s trees turn orange, escape the cold indoors.

Head to the British Museum (britishmuseum.org) and Victoria and Albert Museum (vam.ac.uk) for leading international shows. Kids will love the Natural History Museum (nhm.ac.uk) too. Don’t miss bonfire night fireworks on 5 November.

There’s nowhere quite as magical as festive-season London.

Wrap up and make a beeline for the craft markets and food stalls at Winter Wonderland (hydeparkwinterwonderland.com).

Somerset House (somersethouse. org.uk) boasts fashionable art exhibitions and its very own ice rink.

The City

Number of stations on the Underground

2,868 Number of diamonds in the Queen’s Imperial State Crown

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North

West

Go west for high-class luxury boutiques, legendary nightlife, and more stand-out restaurants than you could fit into a month-long stay. It’s no wonder that the likes of Kylie Minogue and Brad Pitt have called this area home. Make like a local and head to Kensington High Street and Holland Hill for independent luxury boutiques, and Notting Hill Gate for antiques shops and record stores.

For a close-by city escape, look to Windsor – where the historic Windsor Castle, vast Great Park and boutique-laden streets await.

The leafy north is where you’ll find the city’s successful young things – and a crop of top-notch independent eateries: Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen (fifteen. net) and Le Mercury (lemercury.co.uk) are among the stand-out choices. The Camden markets aren’t for the faint hearted, but you’ll find lots of one-of-a-kind souvenirs there. Craving fresh air? Regent’s Park (royalparks.org.uk) is one of the best, and boasts the Open Air Theatre (openairtheatre.com) too.

Know your

nEighbourhood North or south of the river, way out west or heading east – every part of the city has its own character. Here’s how to get the best from them all...

The Thames-side south-east corner of the city is home to all of London’s landmarks: Westminster, The Shard, and the London Eye among the most photogenic. With the crowds of commuters and wide-eyed tourists, there’s real energy here – and you’ll need all you can muster to see even a sliver of the world-famous Tate galleries (tate.org.uk). Head to Greenwich, home of the magnificent World Heritage Site naval ships and docks, or catch world-class entertainment at the O2 stadium (theo2.co.uk).

South

East

The cover star of the London 2012 Olympics is brimming with life. Thanks to a recent expansion of the London Overground, it’s easy to venture east: must-sees include Westfield London (westfield. com) for glitzy shopping, the markets of Old Spitalfields (oldspitalfieldsmarket. com) and modern art at Whitechapel Gallery (whitechapelgallery.org).

You’ll find quirky new restaurants too: we love the Italian vibe of Super Tuscan (020 7247 8717) and The Clove Club’s British-themed bites (020 7729 6496).

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EXPERIENCE LONDON FROM NO.1 PARK LANE.

Our newly designed Royal Suite pays homage to the hotel’s location on the site of 145 Piccadilly, Queen Elizabeth II’s former childhood residence. Attention is in every detail of the timeless design that encapsulates signature styles from Her Majesty’s early life through to the present. With inspiring panoramic views across Mayfair and the Royal Parks, the Royal Suite sits at the heart of the hotel’s newly launched ‘By Appointment’ collection to create one of the largest private accommodation offerings in the capital.

Do you live an InterContinental life?

Please call us on +44 (0) 20 7409 3131 Or visit us on london.intercontinental.com InterContinental London Park Lane • One Hamilton Place, Park Lane • London, W1J 7QY • london.intercontinental.com

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Hotels we love

London hotels are laden with history and bursting with charming features.

We’ve selected the best of the bunch

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Hotels

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he most desirable address in the UK capital is undoubtedly Shangri-La Hotel, at The Shard, London (shangri-la. com/London). The Shard’s viewing platform may have been open since 2012, but a stay at the Shangri-La outpost promises to be a dazzling experience all of its own. The 202 deluxe residences inside the spire of the building are among the largest in London, and feature stunning views of the capital (weatherpermitting, of course). If you can tear yourself away from the windows, you’ll find exclusive ‘Shangri-La beds’, designer amenities, and iPod docking stations.

From a new hotel, to one of London’s oldest: Claridge’s (claridges.co.uk), which was founded in 1865. This historic location has hosted Queen Victoria, Audrey Hepburn and Kate Moss – and many, many more – but its service remains as warm and welcoming as ever. The Signature suites are jaw-droppingly opulent, with original Edwardian furniture, complimentary Mercedes transfers, and original artwork throughout. Guests with children can rest assured that they’ll be pampered too: with gift packs, video games, baby sitting and inroom kids’ dining among the treats lined up.

The Berkeley (the-berkeley.co.uk) puts you right in the heart of Knightsbridge, with Harrods, Harvey Nichols and Hype Park right on your doorstep. Its style is contemporary chic, with contributions from designers Paul Smith and David Collins, and service is always with a smile. We love the children’s concierge service, which can arrange special trips out and fun stays in especially for young guests.

Grosvenor House, a JW Marriott Hotel (marriott.co.uk) has hosted London’s great and good since the 1920s in its elegant suites and rooms – many of which look out onto the iconic Hyde Park. You’ll find the best of British hospitality right here, too: the cosy JW Steakhouse serves up juicy grills, Corrigan’s Mayfair is famed for its ingenious use of local ingredients (think farm-fresh veggies and delectable wild game), and The Park Room offers hearty grub with Hyde Park views.

We adore the contemporary boutique design of The May Fair (themayfairhotel.co.uk) – a chic bolthole favoured by London Fashion Week attendees. Check into one of its glamorous suites for the full effect: each abode features unique interior design and all the mod cons: Hotels

think outsized TVs, Bang & Olufsen sound systems, and CCTV entry controls.

The 1950s building of Sanderson Hotel London (sandersonlondon.com) is brimming with eclectic allure thanks to a makeover by Philippe Starck – think curvaceous lips sofas, hand-carved African armoires and 1960s mosaics… The effect is dazzling, intriguing, and wholly unique. The bedrooms are just as charming: splash out on a Loft room for thoughtful luxurious touches and your very own balcony for a dose of fresh British air.

Feeling peckish? The delightful Mad Hatter’s Tea serves up delectable nibbles with an Alice in Wonderland theme: perfect for entertaining kids of all ages on rainy afternoons.

Who can resist the charms of Café Royal (hotelcaferoyal.com)? Sandwiched between regal Mayfair and trendy Soho, this elegant residence boasts a stunning blend of ornate Louis XVI décor and contemporary design.

Romantics will love the six historic suites: each one features its own personal butler, pantry

Previous page, clockwise from top left: Brown’s; a Junior Suite in Jumeirah Lowndes Hotel; the Pavillion Suite in The Berkeley; the Kipling Suite in Brown’s.

This page, clockwise from top left: private dining in the Empire Suite of Café Royal; The Savoy; the views from Corinthia Hotel London. Opposite page, from left: a bedroom at The Mayfair; The Berkeley.

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goodies, Bang & Olufsen sound system and luxe Frette linen. Don’t miss the legendary Grill Room for dinner – it was once the favourite hang-out of author and socialite Oscar Wilde.

51 Buckingham Gate (51-buckinghamgate. com) is a leafy retreat in the heart of London, with its own award-winning courtyard garden.

This is the place to base yourself on longer stays: the suites are massive, with up to nine bedrooms. The five-bedroom Prime Minister Suite was inaugurated by former British premier John Major, but you’ll find us in the surreal Cinema Suite – with its 85 inch, high definition 3D television, full butler service, and daily platter of cinema-worth goodies.

With just 22 rooms and 2 suites, Adria (theadria.com) is truly a little gem. Blending Victorian opulence with contemporary conveniences (think imported linens, iPod docks and Italian marble bathrooms), this irresistible bolthole is perfect for travellers looking for a unique stay. Fancy investing in some quirky London style of your own? You’ll also find Harrods, Harvey Nichols and Sloane Street nearby…

Corinthia Hotel London (corinthia.com) is one of the city’s newest, must-stay five-star hotels. Not only does it boast the best choice of impeccably-stylish suites in the whole of London – including seven tastefully-themed Penthouses which have proved a big celebrity draw – but also one of the best locations for anyone keen to see the famous sights of Nelson’s Column, 10 Downing Street and Buckingham Palace, each of which is a short walk away.

Just steps from Buckingham Palace and Hyde Park, London Park Lane (ihg.com) is steeped in history. It was once the site of a royal residence, and its still boasts a certain savoir faire: take tea in the elegant lounge, tuck into award-winning cuisine at intimate restaurant Theo Randall’s, or indulge in seasonal bites in the Cookbook Café. You’ll be within easy reach of the rest of the capital, too – and weary sightseers will love the serene on-site spa.

It’s no wonder that Hyatt Regency London - The Churchill (london.churchill.hyatt.com) is one of London’s most sought-after addresses.

From the optional limousine airport transfer to the terrific on-site Locanda Locatelli restaurant,

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this hotel offers the chance to live London’s high life. It’s a champion of the arts, too: those with an eye for design should choose the striking Saatchi Suite – it showcases the best of London’s up-and-coming artists, with original artwork, playful installations, and one-of-a-kind upholstery straight from the world-famous Saatchi Gallery collection.

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it overlooks leafy Lowndes Square. It’s a chic, comfortable boutique hotel that stands a short stroll from Knightsbridge on the cobbled streets of Belgravia. Stay here with kids and they’ll be given a Jumeirah Passport, a booklet packed full of games, challenges and vouchers for free goodies like cookies and cupcakes.

In the heart of Knightsbridge itself is Jumeirah Carlton Tower, a luxury five-star property which bestows spectacular vistas of London’s skyline. That’s even the case at the chic spa, undoubtedly one of the finest The May Fair is within easy hotel’s in the city, while in-house restaurant The Rib reach of the city – and weary Room has a rich history – it’s over 50 years old. somewhere with royal approval, it has sightseers will love the spa too to For be The Goring Hotel (thegoring.com), which has remained family-owned since its opening in 1910. This is where Catherine Middleton spent her last night as a commoner, The reputation of The Savoy (fairmont. and it’s somewhere that’s arguably the most com/savoy) precedes it: this classy abode has quintessentially English hotel in London. It also been welcoming guests since 1889. After a has a wonderful history, being the first hotel in multi-million dollar restoration, it emerged with the world to offer en-suite facilities. its original Edwardian interiors trimmed with The Hilton Park Lane (hilton.co.uk) is chic modern touches, and the service here is located directly opposite Hyde Park, with its suitably impressive. This is another hotel with a grand gardens, boating lake and kilometres of stunning selection of suites – there are nine of cycling, jogging and strolling paths. This lovely them in total – and equally stirring views over modern hotel has more to offer than its central the Thames. Gordon Ramsey heads up the location, however – starting with the Michelinhotel’s famous Savoy Grill restaurant – of which starred Galvin at Windows restaurant. There is Sir Winston Churchill was a regular patron. a first-class health club and spa too – don’t miss A name you’ll know well from the GCC out on their trademark four hand massage – and is Jumeirah, and it boasts some excellent of course beautiful rooms. It is also the only options in London. First up there’s Jumeirah hotel in London where every room boasts a Lowndes (jumeirah.com) – so named because view of the city.

Hotels

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The Qantas pick of London’s secret hotels With just two bedrooms to its name, 40 Winks (40winks.org) is one of the most personal boltholes in London.

British interior designer David Carter is your host: his renovated townhouse is full to the brim with lavish accessories: think gold curios, treasured antiques and silk wallpapers.

The Rookery (rookeryhotel.com) is nestled on the edge of the city’s financial district, and with its polished wood panelling and open fireplaces is more members’ club than hotel.

Check in to the welcoming Rook’s Nest suite for the full home-away-fromhome effect.

Located in a former ballroom just behind Buckingham Palace, 41 Hotel (41hotel.com) is a stylish little gem.

Take your pick from a handful of rooms and suites, or book into one of the nearby serviced apartments for longer stays – you’ ll enjoy all of the perks of hotel living, but with extra space and flexibility too.

For a more historic abode, try Brown’s (brownshotel.com). It lies in the heart of Mayfair and offers individually decorated suites, a lovely spa, and an excellent restaurant, HIX. The hotel hosted the world’s first ever phone call – Alexander Graham Bell made it – and author Rudyard Kipling, who finished writing his famous novel The Jungle Book here.

Situated in a grand old building, The Langham (london.langhamhotels.co.uk) is located in the West End, mere minutes from the joys of Regent, Oxford and Bond Streets.

They don’t have butlers here – they have ‘Langham service stylists’, who perform the same role and are also incredibly clued-up on the best things to do in the capital. Your first port of call must be Roux at the Landau, the hotel restaurant, which brings together Albert and Michel Roux, those two legends of French haute cuisine.

Hilton London Syon Park (hilton.com) is just seven miles from central London, but is a haven for those seeking a relaxing countryside break. The historical 200-acre Syon Park estate is a spectacular backdrop, and you’ll find Kew Gardens and Richmond Park on your doorstep too. Each guest residence features Hilton’s topquality design, with sink-in bathtubs, extra large beds, and tropical rain showers in the lavish garden-view suites. Not the weather to venture outside? Head to The Terrace for afternoon tea, Kallima Spa for divine spa treatments, or check out The Capability’s menu of fine British fare.

Opposite page: the lobby, Map Room Library and a suite in Claridge’s. This page from Top: a suite in Café Royal.

Inset: exterior of The Langham.

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Shopping we love

Whether you crave traditional British Mulberry or an outlandish Vivienne Westwood design, you’ll find it right here

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Shopping

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ot cash to splash? Head to the heart of London’s luxurious brands: Harrods (harrods.com). Since the Knightsbridge store was founded in 1849, it has been a draw for discerning fashionistas searching for the best of British style. Today, you’ll find Mulberry, Christian Dior, Lanvin, Chanel, Moschino, Yves Saint Laurent, Ralph Lauren and Dolce & Gabbana to name but a few.

For more high-quality threads, Bond Street awaits: a high-end hub of the world’s biggest and oldest luxury brands. Whether you’re on the hunt for a special piece of jewellery or just fancy an afternoon of starry-eyed gawping, you can’t go wrong with the staggering choice of names. Must-visits include Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, De Beers, Aspreys and Boodles – all of which are housed in spectacular flagship shops.

Piccadilly and St James offer a genteel introduction to the art of British elegance, with specialist boutiques dedicated to everything from shirting to art – and boasts a rich architectural heritage to boot. The shop fronts of Jermyn Street are iconic in their own right, and the area’s 300-year history of trade has attracted many Royal Warrant-holders (shops that supply goods to the royal family).

The foodie emporium Fortnum & Mason (fortnumandmason.com) is simply unmissable – be sure to stock up on its honey, produced by Previous page, clockwise from top left: Bond Street; Liberty department store; Savile Row; Camden market; Harrods.

Above: Covent Garden marketplace.

Left: The Royal Arcade, linked to Bond Street.

Fortnum’s bees that garner pollen from nearby Buckingham Palace, Clarence House and St James’s Palace.

Of course, nothing says luxury quite like a bespoke suit from Savile Row. World-famous tailoring emporiums sit shoulder-to-shoulder along this iconic stretch: think Gieves & Hawkes, Richard James, Henry Herbert Tailors and Jasper Littman. And those expert cuts aren’t just for men: women’s suits are readily available too – with designs and materials to suit the female form.

You’ll need an exclusive timepiece to complement that suit – so browse some of the finest designs at The Watch Gallery (thewatchgallery.co.uk) in Knightsbridge. It’s an official Rolex retailer, with a suitably impressive array of cutting-edge pieces, and watchmakers that can offer impromptu repairs and services.

For top quality high street favourites, venture to the 1.5 mile-long Oxford Street.

It’s brimming with flagship high street stores

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– think Top Shop, Nike, and Gap – and famous faces can often be spotted between the rails.

Start at Tottenham Court Road and head up towards Marble Arch – a route best followed on weekdays (on weekends and national holidays the crowds can be merciless).

At number 400 on Oxford Street, you’ll need to set aside a generous amount of time – this is the home of Selfridges (selfridges.com), where

The shop fronts of Jermyn Street are iconic in their own right

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fashionistas flock to get a piece of that iconic London style. It’d be rude not to splash out on the plethora of designer names here: you’ll find the likes of Alexander McQueen, Marc by Marc Jacobs, Helmut Lang, Stella McCartney, Hugo Boss and Burberry.

Speaking of exclusivity, Liberty (liberty. co.uk) – just down the road, on Regent Street – is positively brimming with one-off lines. It’s one of London’s most up-market department stores – and it’s easy to see why. All the designer names are here (Chloé, Paul Smith, Ralph Lauren…), and the gravitas of the store has attracted exclusive collections from many big names – including the London-ready Levi’s X Liberty brand. If you’re blinded by the choice, Liberty’s in-store personal shopping assistants can guide you through each and every one – their knowledge of the British fashion scene is second to none.

If you’re after a more low-key shopping experience, the stalls of Covent Garden are both a fashion destination and favourite London institution. The market forms the heart of the area, where you’ll find everything from hand-made bath salts to funky leather goods.

Jugglers, fire-breathers and magicians dot the streets, and there’s a real festival atmosphere every day. Quirky boutiques line the main square, and there are plenty of places to sit down with a coffee.

For more eclectic shopping in a British icon, Shopping

head to Carnaby Street, which has been at the cutting edge of capital style since the ’60s.

Brands from all over the world are represented – among them, Miss Sixty, Levi’s, Sweaty Betty, Hilfiger Denim and Vans. If you’re on the hunt for rarer collections, however, go to the area’s Newburgh Quarter where you’ll find upcoming boutiques.

The cobbles of Portobello Road Market are London’s most famous fleamarket destination.

It’s pretty much impossible to come away empty-handed – even if you’re not in the mood to buy, the smooth cockney sales patters will no doubt change your mind. Start at the Notting Hill Gate end for antiques – and for clothing and accessories head up to the Westway flyover and Ladbroke Grove.

For all the big high street brands in the east of the capital, head to Westfield Stratford City – the city’s youngest mall, which boasts over 265 retailers. You’ll find everything from

World Traveller // We Love London

The Qantas pick of London’s secret shops You’ d be a fool to venture outside without an umbrella in London, but there’s no need to carry an unwieldy design: James Smith (jamessmith.co.uk), a historic umbrella-maker in London’s West End, has been constructing them by hand since 1830 but is still relatively unknown.

Every gent in town needs a bespoke brolly.

Riders and Squires (ridersandsquires.co.uk) is the first port of call for horse-riding aficionados in the know. It serves London’s equestrian community with the finest gaiters, gloves, boots and breeches – and will organise madeto-measure pieces (and overseas postage).

Perfumer Floris London (florislondon.com) on Jermyn Street has held a Royal Warrant since 1820, and it now provides Her Majesty The Queen and Prince Charles with fine bespoke scents. Book an appointment to create your own perfume – prices start at a cool £4,500…

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children’s clothes to jewellery, as well as vast department stores, a cinema, and a range of eateries for a post-spree sit-down. If you’re in the west of the city, fear not – you’ll find Westfield London, which has similar shops and restaurants, in Shepherd’s Bush.

Designer label-lovers will adore the flagship stores of British designers which dot the city – these are destinations in their own right, often with impressive interior design and full seasonal collections. Vivienne Westwood (viviennewestwood.co.uk) on Conduit Street is brimming with signature tartans, layering, and tongue-in-cheek designs.

Just off Bond Street you’ll find Mulberry (mulberry.com), home of fine British leather

craftsmanship. The countryside-inspired clothing collections feature classic cuts, but the real stand-out items are the label’s bags, purses and wallets. Dapper chaps should go straight to Hackett (hackett.com), a menswear emporium that was founded in 1979. Its Sloane Street store has the full range (plus children’s wear), as well as a tailoring service and barber.

London’s vintage shopping scene is fantastic, and if you’ve got time to spare it’s worth checking out some of its highlights. Lucy in Disguise (lucyindisguiselondon.com), run by singer Lily Allen and her sister Sarah in Soho, has a plethora of one-off pieces and a retro-style beauty parlour. Alfie’s Antiques (alfiesantiques.com), in Marylebone, has been trading vintage and antique goods for over 30 years. More than 600 stalls make up this fascinating store, flogging clothes, memorabilia, jewels and furniture.

Left: Jermyn Street.

Above: hunting for antiques and souvenirs on Portobello Road.

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RestauR ants we love

London is home to an ever-changing array of fantastic new restaurants.

We’ve scoured the streets for the best‌

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Restaurants

World Traveller // We Love London

ou can’t visit the UK capital without experiencing Great Britain’s formerly maligned national dishes. With its playful take on fresh and seasonal local produce, The Five Fields (020 8947 4474) is located in Chelsea. Dressed in pale green and ivory, and with its own herb garden, the restaurant exudes a British countryside atmosphere – try the Berkshire venison or Dover sole for the full effect. Be sure to leave room for the menu of classic British desserts: choose rhubarb and custard for wintery dining, or strawberries and cream for summery tastes.

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A short walk away you’ll find Tartufo (020 7730 6383), in Cadogan Gardens, where modern European cuisine is served up in irresistibly chic environs. Housed in a red-brick Victorian mansion block, it’s decorated with period tea sets, art books and vintage prints.

Start with the exquisite grilled Scottish scallops and spring black truffle, and move onto the Atlantic cod with aubergine and flower tempura.

The selection of matured cheeses will leave fromage fans rapt for hours.

Brasserie Chavot (020 7183 6425) in Mayfair promises a French-inspired menu,

Opposite page: Dishes and dining rooms at Bo London. This page, clockwise from top left: Bird of Smithfield; AQUA at The Shard; al fresco dining at Albion; the bread stand at Balthazar; soft shell crab at Brasserie Chavot.

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Restaurants

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created using the finest produce from the UK and France. It’s a favourite with food critics, and famed for its opulent dining hall: we can’t get enough of the crystal chandeliers and grand deep-red banquettes. Sup on snails bourguignon and rump of Oisín venison with honey glazed root vegetables. But be warned: it’s positively criminal not to leave room for the decadent vanilla crème brûlée.

The Shard’s Oblix (020 7268 6700) restaurant is located on the 32nd floor of London’s new favourite landmark, and offers a New York-inspired grill. Rainer Becker, the same chef who brought us Zuma and Roka, has expanded his repertoire to creamy clam chowder, rotisseried rosemary chicken and

Opposite page: the gourmet grocery shop at Albion.

Left: chabrot choux at Chabrot Bistrot des Halles. Below: the private dining room of Ametsa.

In Kaspar’s Seafood Bar and Grill, Chef James Pare serves up delectable seafood against stunning Thames views

succulent rib-eye steaks. Everything here is designed to be shared, so dig in. And if you’re looking for a light bite and a quick drink, Aqua at The Shard fits the bill.

For more formal bites, Kaspar’s Seafood Bar and Grill (020 7420 2111) at The Savoy is a new type of restaurant. In an elegant, twentiesstyle setting, Chef James Pare serves up delectable seafood creations against stunning views of the Thames. Stand-out dishes include cured sea bass and succulent lobster.

London is renowned for the food markets scattered across the city, brimming with fresh produce and curious homemade morsels.

Those with a carnivorous appetite should make a beeline for Chabrot Bistrot des Halles (020 7796 4550) for adventurous dining. With its specialist charcuterie – serving everything from beef Carpaccio to calf’s head with Ravigote sauce – the designer menu is not for the faint hearted.

Continue your gastronomic explorations at the hotly-anticipated Grain Store (020 7324 4466), Tony Conigliaro’s new restaurant venture with renowned chef Bruno Loubet at the helm.

For some unique flavours, order the chermoulagrilled quail with green beans and pistachio

salad, or opt for the confit lamb belly with spice mash and snowball turnips.

If Asia is more to your taste, savour a snippet of China at nearby Bo London (020 7493 3886) – although be warned: Chef Alvin Leung is known for his radical take on traditional tastes.

Choose from a three-, twelve- or fourteencourse menu: unforgettable dishes include ‘Bed and Breakfast’, a Jasmine-smoked quail

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The Qantas pick of London’s secret sweet treats

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egg with Osetra caviar, and squid ink gnocchi tossed in dried shrimp oil.

If you’re looking for a less alarming take on contemporary Japanese cuisine, head to Sushinho on London’s King’s Road (020 7349 7496) and Liverpool Street (020 7220 9490).

Don’t be fooled by the Brazilian beachside vibe, low lighting and leafy palms: Sushinho’s lobster rolls, sashimi and blackened butterfish are as authentic as it gets.

After a long day sightseeing and shopping on Oxford Street, refuel at nearby Lockhart London (020 3011 5400) for a taste of South America. Chef Andrew Justice (a 2010 quarter finalist in British cook-off MasterChef) cooks up Deep South-inspired flavoursome feasts, prepared with the best of the UK’s seasonal ingredients. Take your pick from the likes of black bean enchiladas stuffed with roasted vegetables and Dorset cheddar, and sea bass served with lobster, Mexican chorizo and summer greens.

Restaurants

Above: Left: bantam egg and bitter leaves at Beagle.

Indulge your sweet tooth in the capital’s underground dessert dining scene, where savouries are eschewed in favour of cakes, bakes, and all-things frosted.

Bea’s of Bloomsbury (beasofbloomsbury. com) specialises in cakey afternoon teas, but its pillowy marshmallows, gigantic meringues and syrupy brownies are delicious at any time of day. You’ ll find outlets in Maltby Street Market, St Paul’s and Theobalds Road in west London.

If you’re after quantity to match quality, pull up a pew at Eric Lanlard’s Cake Boy (020 7978 5555) – here you’ ll find fist-sized macaroons and chewy cookies of frisbee proportions. There’s a cooking masterclass for budding pastry chefs, too.

The six-seat dessert bar at Pollen Street Social (pollenstreetsocial.com) is in high demand: its super-inventive sweets include goat’s milk rice pudding, lemon and white chocolate ganache, and basil ash meringue.

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Culture we love

You’d need months to explore the city’s full range of treasures, so we’ve picked out some of our favourites...

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rt-lovers should flock straight to Tate Britain (tate.org.uk), which holds fine art and sculptures from the past 1,000 years. The collection is staggering in its depth and breadth, and the gallery is heavily involved in the restoration and repair of many notable works. To discover more contemporary masterpieces, take the dedicated Tate shuttle boat to the Tate Modern gallery. Housed in a former power station on the south bank of the Thames, this soaring redbrick creation has become famed for the incredible displays in its Turbine Hall. You’ll find floor upon floor of modern art, ranging from the genre-twistingly bizarre to the frustratingly pretentious and the sublimely beautiful – the gallery can’t be beaten in the capital for its sheer eclecticism.

The National Portrait Gallery (npg.org.uk) is just a short walk away, and features famous faces from all over the world. The galleries are filled with paintings of 16th-century dukes and earls, satirical cartoons, and photographs of modern celebrities. Be sure not to miss out on Lucien Freud’s famous – and, some would say, rather unflattering – portrait of Her Majesty the Queen.

The UK capital boasts a colourful past, so immerse yourself in its stories at the vast Museum of London (museumoflondon.org. uk). With its eclectic collection of artefacts that date back to prehistoric time, it’s the ideal first port of call – and visitors can trace the roots of the city from long before it became Britain’s capital. Permanent galleries include London Before London, a glimpse of the area in 450,000 BC – and Medieval London, which features relics from London’s most tumultuous time, when it was destroyed by invaders and racked by famine, fire and political upheaval.

The British Museum (britishmuseum.org) is similarly ambitious, and includes cultural treasures from all over the world. At the height of the British Empire, the Victorians acquired interesting artefacts from all over the world: ancient civilisations, far-flung islands and other metropolitan cities. Take a wander around and lose yourself in Roman sculptures, Egyptian mummies, Far Eastern pottery and Middle Eastern jewellery – then gather your thoughts in the excellent on-site restaurant.

You’ll find further evidence of the Brits’ kleptomania at the Victoria and Albert Museum (vam.ac.uk), which holds sculpture, Culture

World Traveller // We Love London

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Opening page, clockwise from top: Tate Modern; the West End; British Museum; National Portrait Gallery. Opposite page: British Museum.

Left: Tate Britain.

Right: Old Royal Observatory at Greenwich.

jewellery, curios and costumes from all over the world. For refreshments, there’s a café with an intricate mosaic roof, and a reading room lined with fancy five-tier mahogany bookcases.

The Royal Museums Greenwich (rmg. co.uk) encompasses London’s finest regal treasures: the National Maritime Museum (complete with fun interactive games for the kids); the impressive Royal Observatory Greenwich (which sits on the GMT line and features the capital’s only public planetarium); and the Cutty Sark (the last surviving tea clipper, whose café boasts a decadent menu of tea-infused cakes).

chambers, buried deep in the earth beneath Whitehall, is where Sir Winston Churchill and his ministers decided on their strategies during the Second World War. The armed forces were controlled from these very rooms, and you can see the basic maps and documents which helped the Allies to win the war.

The Churchill Museum is located next door, and is brimming with memorabilia from the great man’s life. A favourite with visitors is the adult-sized romper suit which Sir Winston Churchill commissioned during the war: he knew he would be working all hours, but he wanted to do it in comfort (if not in style).

Wander around the British Museum and lose yourself in Roman sculptures, Egyptian mummies and Far Eastern pottery

The Natural History Museum (nhm.ac.uk) has an unparalleled collection of nature’s most impressive feats. The permanent galleries (for which entrance is free) are the resting places of dinosaur skeletons, pieces of the moon, and a life-size model of a blue whale. It’s easy to lose a whole day here, and there are plenty of activities for the kids, including: a fun zone for seven to 14 year-olds, the fossil-packed Earth Lab, and activity packs that will help them get the most out of the exhibits.

For an insight into the UK’s most tumultuous period in recent centuries, visit the Cabinet War Rooms (iwm.org.uk). This nest of small

The Harry Potter Warner Bros. Studio Tour (wbstudiotour.co.uk) is the place for would-be wizards: the themed rides and magical experiences will keep them entertained for hours. There’s the chance to explore Dumbledore’s office, see the animatronics, learn about special effects, and experience the film sets up-close. The star of the show is the Hogwarts Castle Model, a to-scale model of the Potter icon that took 86 artists and crew members to create.

To keep kids further entertained, you can’t go wrong with the Science Museum (sciencemuseum.org.uk), which details all

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Left: Hogwarts at Harry Potter Warner Bros. Studio Tour.

The Qantas pick of London’s secret MuseuMs

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Trace the history of UK consumerism at the tiny Museum of Brands (museumofbrands.com), home of packaging and adverts that date back to the Victorian era. It’s a nostalgic treat for Brits, and a quirky insight for visitors.

Beneath the tourist souvenir shop of the Hard Rock Café you’ ll find The Vault (hardrock. com) – a hidden boudoir packed with musical memorabilia. From John Lennon’s hand-written lyrics to Madonna’s conical ‘Blonde Ambition’ bustier, the collection is one of the world’s most valuable – and staff will give free guided tours.

It’s easy to overlook the Charles Dickens Museum (dickensmuseum. com): it is announced by only a small plaque, commemorating Dickens’s residence here in 1837.

Inside, the house is decorated exactly as it would have been when he lived there – and visitors can see the desk where he wrote Oliver Twist and Nicholas Nickleby.

Culture

of the major scientific and technological breakthroughs of the last century. The displays are largely interactive (and, if not, are truly aweinspiring), making the experience endlessly fun for children (and adults) – in fact, you’ll have trouble tearing them away.

The Victoria and Albert Museum of Childhood (museumofchildhood.org.uk) in Bethnal Green has daily Victorian-themed activities, ranging from treasure hunts to storytelling. Entry is free (although charges do apply to some events), and the playful exhibition includes teddy bears, toys and dolls that your little ones will love.

For evening entertainment, the Royal Opera House (roh.org.uk) attracts spectacular performances from all over the world. Its dance recitals are spectacular, often featuring the Royal Ballet, and the opera makes for a truly mesmerising night out. If you fancy witnessing some of Shakespeare’s finest works in the setting in which many of them were written, head to the Globe Theatre (shakespearesglobe.com) on the banks of the Thames to catch an ever-changing programme of plays.

World Traveller // We Love London

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SightS We love

From royal palaces to secret city gardens (with flamingoes, no less), there’s always something new to discover

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Opening page, clockwise from top: a royal guard; Hyde Park; Tower Bridge; St Paul’s Cathedral and Millenium bridge.

Left, from top: theatres in the West End; mounted guard.

Right: Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament.

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here are few better ways to get to grips with British history than by tracing the lineage of the royal family. Start your education with a tour of Buckingham Palace (royal.gov.uk), where the grandeur and pageantry of regal life are on full display.

The palace’s gold-trimmed façade and guards in full regalia make for a brilliant photo opportunity, too. The Changing of the Guard is a ceremonial display of real British pomp – head to The Mall, a short walk away, to watch the Queen’s Guard parade through the streets (11am Monday-Saturday, 10am Sunday).

Nearby Westminster Abbey (westminsterabbey.org) is where all British kings and queens have been crowned, married and buried – and where Prince William and Catherine Middleton tied the knot in 2011. The on-site information office provides guides to the monuments, war memorials and glorious stained-glass windows; set aside a couple of hours to immerse yourself in its thousand-year history.

Sights

World Traveller // We Love London

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If walls could talk, those of The Tower of London would have the best tales to tell...

If walls could talk, surely those of The Tower of London (hrp.org.uk) would have the best tales to tell. This thousand-year-old fortress has been used as a palace, prison, royal mint, and even a zoo. You can see inside its infamous walls on an entertaining guided tour – they’re hosted by Yeoman Wardens, a detachment of the Royal Guard, who’re dressed in full brightred military uniform. The Tower is the home of the Crown Jewels, the dazzling array of royal jewellery that has sat on the heads of some of the most famous figures in history.

Kensington Palace (hrp.org.uk), another key sight on the royal trail, is surrounded by the picturesque Kensington Gardens. The palace hosts exhibitions and galleries of key monarchal moments – although taking afternoon tea in Queen Anne’s delightful Orangery is a charming way to soak up the atmosphere without all of the legwork.

Still pavement-weary? Make your way to Blackfriars, on the edge of the River Thames, to pick up a cruise boat – there are lots to choose from, and a 40-minute tour will take you past the Houses of Parliament, Tower Bridge, Docklands and the Millennium Dome. Or, take a turn on the London Eye – a Ferris wheel-style attraction from which London’s New Year’s Eve fireworks are launched to spectacular effect.

London has a new landmark: The Shard (the-shard.com), a 308-metre tower that has changed the capital’s iconic skyline forever. Pride of place in Southwalk, it cuts an impressive silhouette against the familiar architecture that flanks the Thames, but for the best views you’ll need a ticket up to the viewing level on the 72nd floor. With 360-degree vistas stretching out for 40 miles, it’s an excellent place from which to admire the capital’s sprawling, historic landscape.

Once you’ve got perspective, venture to the magnificent Houses of Parliament (parliament. uk/visiting), a Victorian-style complex which

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Left, from top: London Eye; Royal Albert Hall; The Shard.

The Qantas pick of London’s secret sights

is home to the government. You can’t miss its Gothic turrets and archways, and the interiors are just as spectacular: take a look for yourself on a scheduled tour of the House of Commons and House of Lords. Trips take place on Saturdays and more regularly throughout the summer opening period, and include the Queen’s Robing Hall and Westminster Hall as well as the key debating chambers.

London has plenty of parks – and (weatherdepending) they’re best enjoyed on a picnic.

To the north of the city, you’ll find the vast Regent’s Park (royalparks.org.uk), which has its own dedicated open-air theatre for summertime performances. If you want to lose yourself amongst glorious greenery, Hyde Park is perfect: its manicured gardens and grassy expanses take up a large portion of west London, and offer a picturesque walking route from Paddington Station. Hire a paddle boat and take to the waters of the Serpentine Lake, or recline on a deckchair as the world goes by.

Nowhere boasts people-watching quite like Trafalgar Square, a great Imperial plaza which surrounds the 150-foot-high Nelson’s Column. The monument celebrates Britain’s most famous sea-faring man, Horatio Nelson, and features four huge lions at its base (which were supposedly cast from French cannons during the Battle of Trafalgar). You’re right in the heart of the city here, with the bright lights of the West End theatre district just a stone’s throw away.

The Royal Albert Hall (royalalberthall. com) in South Kensington attracts the world’s biggest names in music to its hallowed boards.

Take in the vaulted ceilings, gilded frescoes and velvet drapery while enjoying the programme of orchestral and choral works (you’ll find new productions every few weeks). Don’t miss the pre-show tours for a sneaky look backstage.

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If you prefer to enjoy concerts in intimate settings, Wigmore Hall (wigmore-hall.org.uk) – in the bosom of London’s West End – won’t disappoint. This ornate recital space was built in 1901 and seat numbers are strictly limited, but that doesn’t stop worldclass performers from stopping by.

Leighton House (rbkc. gov.uk) was the home of Lord Frederic Leighton – a Victorian painter who coveted Arabic art.

More palace than humble abode, his pied-à-terre is laden with intricate Islamic-inspired tiles and gilded domes.

If you know where to look, you’ ll find plenty of hidden leafy oases all over the capital. Our favourite is The Roof Gardens (roofgardens.virgin.com) – a 75-year-old secret space on the roof of a longabandoned department store, complete with a flowing stream stocked with resident fresh-water fish and flamingoes. Visit the restaurant: there’s no finer spot on balmy summer evenings.

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