London 101 2009

in association with

LONdon 101 THE LOWDOWN ON THE WORLD’S GREATEST CITY

hotels culture shops sights restaurants

kanoo world traveller

09

london supplement cover_FINAL.indd 1

6/29/2009 8:59:32 PM

Untitled-4 2

6/24/2009 2:34:27 PM

Untitled-4 3

6/24/2009 2:34:38 PM

Buy befo r Let visitBritain, the Official Tourist Board, help you hundreds of products to help you save

mak time

Tickets to all major attractions such as Madame Tussauds and the spectacular London Eye Rail cards Sightseeing passes and tours around some of the most beautiful parts of Britain including, Scotland, Wales, Cambridge and Bath

Two ways to buy before you fly:

VISIT

Find us at the new Visa Application Centres*

*The UK Visa Application Centres are located at: Jeddah 4th Floor, King Abdullah Road, Nezawi Centre

Untitled-4 2

6/22/2009 4:36:44 PM

R M

o re you fly

you ave

sa

make the most of your time in Britain. Our shop has time and money before you travel including: The Great British Heritage Pass, allowing you faster and unlimited access to our historic palaces, castles and gardens And the London Oyster Card which allows you to travel smarter around the city, by calculating the lowest fare for the day

BROWSE

visitBritainshop.co.uk

Riyadh 2nd Floor, No. 87-88, Sulemaniya Comm.Centre, Prince Mamdouh Bin Abdul - Aziz Street, Sulemaniya District

Untitled-4 3

6/22/2009 4:36:54 PM

4

London 101

welcome to london 101.indd 4

7/6/2009 11:52:22 AM

London 101

welcome to london 101.indd 5

5

7/6/2009 11:52:28 AM

WELCOME TO MAYFAIR’S ABSOLUTE DESTINATION The London Marriott Hotel Grosvenor Square has reinvented the London townhouse with a £20 million refurbishment. An exclusive new Club Floor features 45 of London’s most sublime rooms and suites with 4-poster beds, wooden floors and fireplaces – some with a private garden terrace. Home to Gordon Ramsay’s maze Restaurant and maze Grill, our hotel infuses contemporary chic with classic luxury.

The London Marriott Hotel Grosvenor Square, London W1K 6JP Tel: +44 (0)20 7493 1232 Fax +44 (0)20 7491 3201 Email: mark.aldridge@marriotthotels.com MarriottGrosvenorSquare.com

51 Buckingham Gate offers five-star-finery by the

diners a uniquely brilliant experience as they feast

case-load. Formed of three individually-designed

on a 10-course degustation menu while watching a

buildings which date to 1901, it’s an architectural

team of up to 100 chefs cook up a storm in

delight and houses a top-notch line up of amenities

the kitchen.

to boot: Quilon, the in-house restaurant, boasts

Over at Brown’s – an ideal base for anyone

the talents of Michelin-starred chef Sriram Aylur,

looking to check out the best of Bond Street –

while Spa at 51 is a favourite with in-the-know

you’ll find a marvellous building steeped in history.

Londoners. Location-wise the hotel is slap bang

In its original guise this was London’s very first

in the heart of Westminster – perfect if you’re

hotel, opened in 1837 by husband and wife

planning on a trip to Buckingham Palace – and a

team James and Sarah Brown. It’s the building in

mere stroll from the pristine Green Park, ideal for

which Alexander Graham Bell made the first ever

a post-breakfast saunter. We advise a leather and

telephone call and Rudyard Kipling purportedly

suede-clad suite in the King’s building, from

penned ‘The Jungle Book’. Today, Brown’s is famed

which you can look out onto the Houses of

for its sumptuous suites and culinary charms, with

Parliament. Perfect.

an oh-so-delectable, award-winning afternoon tea

Another hotel that’s chockfull of traditional charm

served up daily and a restaurant – The Albemarle –

is The Dorchester. Here you’ll find immaculate

offering diners the best of British not only in terms

suites, a stunning art-deco-style spa – it’s recently

of food but art, too, with its walls lined with original

reopened following a complete transformation – and

works by the likes of Tracy Emin.

the much-loved Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester,

Grosvenor House, on prestigious Park Lane, is

which didn’t take long to establish itself as one of

also something of a masterpiece, having undergone

the city’s best restaurants following its opening in

a multi-million pound refurbishment to accentuate

2007. If you want to top off your stay in style, book

its traditional charm. Many a famous face has

The Krug Room for dinner. It’s the original chef’s

passed through the hotel’s doors down the years

table, having opened in the 1940s, and remains one

and it retains a loyal following among the social

of the most sought-after tables in town, granting

elite. But it’s through food that Grosvenor Houseis

London 101

london guide_FINAL.indd 7

7

7/6/2009 11:46:05 AM

Left: Haymarket Hotel. Below: London Marriott Grosvenor Square.

currently finding fame, with Corrigan’s Mayfair

the epitome of style, with communal guest areas

racking up praise-filled column inches – London’s

liberally splashed with unique, original works of

leading newspaper The Evening Standard voted it

modern art and distinctly eye-grabbing sculptures

restaurant of the year for 2008/09 – and fantastic

dotted throughout. We prescribe a stay in one

French brasserie Bord’eaux now something of

of two beautifully decorated penthouse suites.

a must-dine. We recommend the feather-light

Although this is definitely a modern masterpiece,

buttered, poached smoked haddock at Corrigan’s

you can still enjoy some traditions: a decadent

Mayfair followed by some English cheeses.

afternoon tea is served in the library.

Gourmets will also find favour with what’s on

A favourite destination for tourists and locals

offer at the magnificently restored London Marriott

alike, Covent Garden is an area that throbs with

Hotel Grosvenor Square, which houses Gordon

energy and it’s here that you’ll find the brilliant

Ramsay’s renowned eatery, Maze – last year saw

St Martin’s Lane. The fact that you enter the

it voted the country’s best restaurant at the UK

hotel through luminescent revolving doors provides

Restaurant Awards – and its laidback offshoot Maze

a none-too-subtle hint of the kind of wit-infused

Grill. Yet it’s the super-stylish rooms which hark

design – Phillipe Starck is the man responsible

back to the Mayfair of yesteryear which are arguably

– that makes this hotel such a distinctive venue,

the hotel’s biggest draw. We’re big fans of the

and there are playful elements throughout. You’ll

decidedly plush garden suites, for their four-poster-

even find them on the menu at the art-strewn Asia

beds, marbled bathrooms, warming fireplaces and,

de Cuba restaurant, where all dishes are served

of course, private courtyard gardens.

to share with your fellow diners. Just make sure

Right in the heart of London’s buzzing theatre district is the oh-so-trendy Haymarket Hotel. It’s 8

you snag the lion’s share of the awesome Mexican doughnuts when dessert is served.

London 101

london guide_FINAL.indd 8

7/6/2009 11:46:18 AM

Mayfair is the heart of London Brown’s is the heart of Mayfair.

This chic hotel offers the perfect home-away-from-home.

Boasting luxurious rooms and suites that you will never want to leave, outstanding dining that you will never forget and heavenly spa treatments, Brown’s is the only address you need in London.

Albermarle Street, London, W1S 4BP Tel: 020 7493 6020 Fax: 020 7493 9381 E-mail: reservations.browns@roccofortecollection.com www.roccofortecollection.com

browns advert.indd 1

6/29/2009 9:18:00 PM

Clockwise from left: Sanctum Soho Hotel, The Dorchester, 51 Buckingham Gate, The Kipling Suite at Brown’s.

Also up west is designer Lesley Purcell’s homage to the Soho district of London, the Sanctum Soho Hotel. All of its thirty rooms are uniquely designed to celebrate the diversity of

unique. How about booking into the Lioness’ Den?

the area in which the hotel stands and to match

It’s a wooden-floored, wicker furniture-scattered

the moods of its guests – the playful union jack

space where the bed is suspended from the ceiling.

pillows in one room add a kick of kitsch. But we’re

Another aesthetic gem outside of the city’s hub –

more taken with the terrific little rooftop spa, where

to the east of London in the still fashionable area of

you can drink in views of central London from an

Shoreditch – is the brand-spanking new Boundary.

alfresco Jacuzzi.

It’s the brainchild of international design magnate

Separated from the cluster of city centre hotels is

Sir Terence Conran – whose signature suite, The

beautiful boutique hotel The Hempel, which bears

Conran, is split over two floors and features a

the name of its designer, the multi-award winning

selection of his personal furniture – and his wife

Anouska Hempel. It’s housed amid a gorgeous

Vicki, who have filled this boutique hotel with quite

garden mere minutes from Hyde Park and the

wonderful works of art. It’s a small yet perfectly

leafy Notting Hill. And if its location offers visitors to

packaged retreat for those with a definite eye for

London a break from the norm, its suites are utterly

the finer things.

10

London 101

london guide_FINAL.indd 10

7/6/2009 11:46:51 AM

When in London a trip to Harrods is almost

accessories on the ground floor where the style

obligatory. Try to leave plenty of time to explore

is uniquely fashion-forward – where else can you

its myriad departments, though the fashion halls

combine a Top Shop dress with a Gucci bag

would be a good place to start. From traditional and

and Karen Millen shoes? Upstairs there’s a great

classic lines to pieces created by more cutting edge

selection of more unusual vintage buys alongside

young British designers, you can immerse yourself

international designer collections. The men’s

in rack after rack of the very latest styles. But if that

department rivals any store in the world with a great

sounds like too much of a chore, head to Harrods

selection from street-style to bespoke suiting, and

BY APPOINTMENT on the store’s first and lower

if it’s gifts you’re after then where better than the

ground floors, where a team of expert shoppers are

‘Wonder Room’ where Selfridges’ team of buyers

on hand to trawl the store for you, servicing your

have combined all the best presents from across

every need.

the shop so you don’t have to search far to find the

While in Knightsbridge you should also take time

perfect item.

to visit the original Harvey Nichols. Famed as the

Slightly less well known by tourists, but still

favourite shopping destination of the late Princess

renowned for its exquisite brand selection and

of Wales, Harvey Nicks (as it is known to its Sloane

chic environment, is Liberty. Shopping here is

Ranger clientele) is stocked to the brim with all your

not really about the level of choice – the brand

favourite labels. The juice bar on the ground floor is

selection is more restricted than the bigger stores

the fashionable spot to re-fuel, or if you are looking

– but about quality. Liberty has recently developed

for something a little more substantial the store’s

its own brand offering, featuring its famed and

‘Fifth Floor’ restaurant is famed for serving up great

quintessentially English Liberty print - think discreet

food and drinks – reservations are always necessary

florals and harmonious paisleys. In fact, the whole

so remember to book ahead.

haberdashery department is superb, and you can

If fashion is your passion and you want to do all your shopping under one roof then Selfridges

also pick up leather goods and clothing in classic designs – you will be an English rose in no time.

should be your store of choice. High street and

If you are in the mood for the ultimate in British

young fashion labels compete with international

retail therapy then a visit to Fortnum and Mason

London 101

london guide_FINAL.indd 11

11

7/6/2009 11:46:52 AM

Clockwise from left: Harrods exterior, Harrods BY APPOINTMENT.

is another must. Just along from the Ritz London and a stone’s throw from Bond Street, Fortnums is more British than Buckingham Palace and more traditional than the infamous stiff upper lip. You may not be able to purchase an ipod here but you can buy incredible treat-filled hampers and beautiful

Agent Provocateur store in Soho, where you

accessories. Yo must also sample the wondrous

will find exquisitely made separates with a nod to

cream tea at the store’s St James’s restaurant.

burlesque – expect silk, satin, lace and intricate

Away from the city’s department stores, Vivienne Westwood, at World’s End along the

embroidery combined with vintage designs.

The Luella boutique is a fashion lover’s must-

King’s Road, is a sight to behold – you know

visit. This is Luella Bartley’s only stand-alone store,

you are in for a treat when you spot the large

and couture lovers will find the whole collection

clock which tells the time backwards outside the

on display here. Luella won the coveted British

entrance. Vivienne Westwood’s mixture of ‘punk

Designer of The Year award in 2008 so this is as

street style’ and haute couture is as relevant now

fashion-forward as it gets. And as this collection is

as it was in 1979 when the store opened. Heels

only available on a very limited basis in the Middle

are still skyscraper-high and corsets abound – this

East, it’s almost guaranteed that you won’t find

collection is definitely not for shrinking violets. And

anyone else at home sporting the same outfit.

if Vivienne’s directional brands are your thing then why not keep it in the family and visit her son’s

12

Another London essential is Jaeger. Though now available worldwide, the exclusive 125

London 101

london guide_FINAL.indd 12

7/6/2009 11:46:59 AM

harrods.com +44 (0)20 7730 1234

ENTER A DIFFERENT WORLD

Untitled-1 1

6/25/2009 12:28:31 PM

Clockwise from bottom: Tiffany & Co, Liberty, Liberty interior.

collection, celebrating 125 years of the brand,

range designed by supermodel Kate Moss, and you

can be difficult to come by. If you want to get your

will not be disappointed with the flagship store. Just

hands on one of these iconic designs a visit to this

make sure you have the stamina for the experience.

Soho store should feature in your shopping plans.

Top Shop, in Oxford Circus, is never quiet and

It’s located just off the infamous Carnaby Street so

as the range and prices appeal to fashionistas

you can also tick this off your list, too.

of all ages you might need to elbow a few fellow

Of course not all British fashion is avent garde.

Burberry’s world-renowned raincoats are available along with the rest of their chic collection at its New

shoppers out of the way to get your hands on that unique little vintage number.

As a fan of high street stores It goes without

Bond Street store - even if you visit in the height of

saying that you will love Marks and Spencer.

the English summer a stylish raincoat may prove

London is home to the M&S flagship store, where

something of a necessity. The Aquascutum store

you will find the usual fabulous food department

includes a range of traditional checks and also a fair

and the entire Per Una, Autograph and Limited

few raincoats, but styling here is more traditional -

Collection lines.

the label is a favourite of the British royal family.

If the high street is more your thing, London

Sports enthusiasts will no doubt have heard of Lilywhites, the multi-levelled store on Piccadilly.

is definitely the city for you. Top Shop is now

Here you will find every imaginable piece of sporting

internationally renowned for its lines including a

equipment plus all your favourite sports brands.

14

London 101

london guide_FINAL.indd 14

7/6/2009 11:47:21 AM

[ SHOP THE WORLD. TAX FREE. ]

www.globalrefund.com

Tax Free shopping for tourists is available at more than 240’000 stores around the world. Simply ask the shop staff for a Refund Cheque and get your money back.

Untitled-1 1

6/23/2009 12:32:07 PM

Left and below: Selfridges

It’s particulary good for football shirts, with a whole

With its long heritage you would expect London

floor stocking the strips of just about every team

to have a fairly booming antiques offering, and the

imaginable. They’ll also add a name and number to

city does not disappoint. Take a trip to Christie’s

your shirt while you wait.

auction house on King Street - simply check their

If you’re after a bit of bling, then Garrard on

website (www.christies.com) to see which sales

Albemarle Street is certainly worth a visit. Famed

are on during your visit. But If you would rather root

as the most dynamic British jeweller - and with

out the treasures yourself then Portobello Market

Mick Jagger of the Rolling Stones’ daughter Jade

is fantastic. Expect a cornucopia of fascinating

as creative director - you can be sure of real rock

trinkets, furniture, fashion and objets d’art.

and roll styling. For a high street jeweller, your best

There is some fine furniture to be had in London -

option is definitely Mappin and Webb where you

many of the leading stores will arrange shipment to

will find a supreme selection of famous names.

the Middle East - and nowhere is this more evident

But If the three c’s are more your thing then you

than Heals, where stylish contemporary design

cannot better a trip to Hatton Garden. Here you

is teamed with high quality materials to ensure

can romance your loved one like a true Londoner

modern elegance. If your taste is a little more

by choosing a stone and setting and designing your

leftfield, then The Conran Shop, in the magnificent

own ring – make sure to shop around to ensure

Michelin building on Fulham Road, is probably more

you’re getting the best possible

your thing – this is where the seriously stylish furnish

price. If you get a chance, pay

their pied à terres.

Hirschfields a visit – they are the

16

London is famed for its shopping districts and

oldest established manufacturing

the King’s Road is a great place to browse.

jewellers in the world and have a

Starting at Sloane Square – home to the Peter

vintage collection to die for.

Jones department store and a particularly

London 101

london guide_FINAL.indd 16

7/6/2009 11:47:40 AM

Clockwise from below: Burberry, Knightsbridge store, The Conran shop, Bond Street.

glamorous branch of Tiffany & Co – you can walk for well over an hour and be spoilt for choice for boutiques. Don’t miss the Joseph sales shop, set amongst the high street favourites, for some of last

prestigious with every year that passes. You will

season’s stylish essentials. Have lunch in Henry J

be spoilt for choice with designer brands – Prada,

Beans or the wonderful Bluebird restaurant before

Max Mara and Ralph Lauren all boast sizeable

continuing on to the far end of the street which is

stores. And it’s also home to flagship stores from

home to some seriously chic home brands. The

Donna Karan and Burberry. If you’re on the hunt

Cath Kidson boutique is outstanding and Osborne

for uniquely British brands, head to Russell and

and Little will provide the ultimate traditional British

Bromley for fantastic footwear, or Smythson for the

touches to your home with top wall coverings.

ultimate English leather goods.

South Molton Street has remained a choice

Last but not least, every man should make

destination since the sixties. There are four Browns

it his duty to own a handmade suit, so while in

boutiques here – each more exciting than the last.

London head to the home of bespoke tailoring,

It stocks the ultimate in designer chic

Savile Row. This is where the likes of Winston

from Balenciaga to Marni.

Meanwhile, Links of London

The quintessential gentleman’s outfitters Gieves and Hawkes should be your first port of call,

array of modern

followed by a trip to Oswald Boateng’s original

jewellery.

boutique. Tailors here will keep your measurements

becomes more

london guide_FINAL.indd 17

Charles were kitted out in custom-made cloth.

stocks a stunning

Bond Street

Left: Wassily chair from The Conran Shop

Churchill, Lord Nelson, and, more recently, Price

on file, so they can run you up a new suit whenever you’re in town. Marvellous.

London 101

17

7/6/2009 11:47:45 AM

STWVL_Euro:Layout 1

17/6/09

10:08

Page 1

See the world. Visit London.

Untitled-2 1

6/17/2009 2:52:01 PM

If you’re looking to try some authentic English food

Executive Chef, Jason Atherton, trained at El Bulli

during your trip, plenty of London restaurants dish

in Barcelona and spent the early part of his career

up a traditional take on the nation’s cuisine.

at Verre in Dubai. At Maze he fuses elements of

The National Dining Rooms (020 7747 2525) at

British, French and Asian cooking to stunning effect.

the National Gallery offers old-fashioned food done

At £28.50, the set lunch offers superb value for

brilliantly well, such as wood pigeon with watercress

money - don’t miss the red mullet bouillabaisse.

and dandelion, smoked haddock and salmon

Vying with Gordon Ramsay for the accolade of

fishcakes, and Eton mess with clotted cream.

being Britain’s most famous chef is Jamie Oliver,

They also do one of London’s best afternoon teas

whose groundbreaking Fifteen (0871 330 1515)

(£14.50) with piles of finger sandwiches, scones

continues to go from strength to strength. The

and dangerously delicious clotted cream.

restaurant is linked to the Fifteen Foundation, a

The carnivorously inclined mustn’t miss St John

registered charity that aims to teach disadvantaged

in Smithfields (020 7251 0848). Its chef and founder

kids the culinary skills required to make it in the

Fergus Henderson has a philosophy of ‘nose-to-

restaurant industry, and its graduates are among

tail eating’ - no edible part of the animal is wasted.

Fifteen’s chefs. The Italian food here is superb; don’t

The menu includes roast bone marrow and parsley

miss the potato gnocchettini with lamb ragu, or the

salad, lamb’s tongue with radishes, and snails with

Sicilian seafood stew.

oak leaf. ‘If you’re going to kill an animal, it seems

One of the most popular steakhouses in

only polite to eat the whole thing,’ Henderson wrote

London, Smiths of Smithfield (020 7251 7950),

in his cookbook. With dishes this good, it’s unlikely

is conveniently located next to London’s biggest

you’ll be leaving food on your plate.

meat market. It’s an ambitious concept, a four-

Maze (020 7107 0000) is regarded as Gordon

floor warehouse with each level offering a slightly

Ramsay’s best London restaurant; a contemporary,

tweaked meaty menu. The best food is on the top

cool and stylish set-up where the food – rather than

floor, a rooftop restaurant with spectacular views

the outspoken owner – does all the talking. The

of the city and chateaubriand steaks large enough

London 101

london guide_FINAL.indd 19

19

7/6/2009 11:48:05 AM

Photographer: Laurie Fletcher

Clockwise from far left: Chez Bruce, The Woseley, Maze, St John at Smithfields, The National Dining Rooms.

to share. On the ground floor they do a legendarily good weekend brunch. Try the corned beef hash with spinach and fried egg.

Another restaurant boasting panoramic views is Skylon (020 7654 7800) at the Royal Festival Hall. It only opened a couple of years ago, but has

lobster on offer, but you can also opt for an Ivy burger at a £11.25.

The Wolseley on Piccadilly (020 7499 6996) is

already collected awards for the striking interior

glamorous, grand and slightly over-the-top - perfect

design and Chef Helena Puolakka’s innovative

for special occasions. If you can’t get a table for

creations. The Finnish chef’s signature dishes

dinner, when the menu focuses on French and

include venison carpaccio and pan-fried sea bass.

German food, it’s worth considering breakfast here.

A speedy, great-value pre-concert menu is available

As well as the full English (£13.75), they offer Swiss

if you’re in a hurry.

birchermuseli, Scottish kedgeree, and for a really

Seasoned celebrity-watchers know all about

opulent start to the day, a caviar omelette - you

The Ivy, London’s number one haunt for

won’t be needing coffee to wake you up with its

star-spotting. With the clientele permanently

£52.50 price tag.

scanning the room in hope of seeing famous

A gastronomic revolution in London is all well and

faces, the restaurant could serve up anything

good, but millions of tourists visit every year for fish

and people would barely notice. Yet the food on

and chips. The North Sea Fish Restaurant (020

the international menu remains impressive and

7387 5892), which has come a long way since its

affordable. Naturally enough, there’s caviar and

humble beginnings in 1977, should be top of your

20

London 101

london guide_FINAL.indd 20

7/6/2009 11:48:18 AM

list. The menu offers far more than the national dish,

contemporary Chinese food in London’s most

but there’s no point ordering anything else. Will it be

stylish restaurant.

cod, haddock, skate or plaice?

The influence of Le Gavroche (020 7408 0881)

Nobu (020 7447 4747) was the first Asian restaurant in London to earn a Michelin star.

on the London dining scene cannot be overstated.

Opened by Nobu Matsuhisa in 1997 and given a

It was opened by French brothers Michel and Albert

dose of star quality by co-owner Robert De Niro,

Roux in 1967, became the first restaurant in the

the influential eatery has been lauded for blending

UK to receive three Michelin stars, and some of the

traditional Japanese dishes with South American

country’s most celebrated chefs, including Gordon

touches such as tomato salsa. Don’t go home

Ramsay and Marco Pierre White, have worked in

without devouring their signature dish, the glorious

its kitchens. It’s hardly cheap, although the three-

black cod with miso.

course lunch menu at £48 is a big saving on the evening a la carte menu.

Boundary (020 7729 1051) opened for business

Chinatown has traditionally been a no-go area for people who care about food, but things are changing. Among the new restaurants transforming

earlier this year. It’s the latest offering from Terence

the area’s reputation is Keelung (020 7734 8128),

Conran, London’s most successful restaurateur,

London’s first northern Taiwanese outlet. Several

and it’s as ambitious as anything he’s done before.

of the items on the menu are served tapas-style,

It thrives on its unconventional location in arty

which means you can experience a wide range of

Shoreditch and there’s a small boutique hotel and a

unusual dishes. The deep-fried oysters, sea bass

bakery here, too. Expect classic British cooking at

and pepper prawns all make you wish Taiwanese

eminently reasonable prices.

cooking was more widely available.

A recent survey revealed that Chez Bruce (020

A series of bestselling cookbooks and a TV

8672 0114) is Londoners’ favourite restaurant,

series, The Italian Kitchen, have helped The River

although due to its location few tourists go there.

Café (020 7386 4200) in Hammersmith become

This is a shame. The view stretches out over

London’s most popular Italian restaurant. Its

Wandsworth Common, one of London’s biggest

fresh, seasonal Mediterranean food has earned

green spaces, while the kitchen prepares superb

it a Michelin star and the Chocolate Nemesis is

regional French cooking – try the guinea fowl with

London’s most lusted-after dessert. A five-course

potato pancakes.

meal will set you back £80, but you’re guaranteed

There are many fantastic Asian restaurants in London, but Hakkasan (020 7907 1888) is

food of the highest quality.

Londoners used to travel to the Welsh border just

the best of the lot. The Michelin-starred eatery

to eat at Hibiscus (020 7629 2999), but thankfully

is the creation of Alan Yau, who gave the world

the Michelin-starred restaurant relocated to London

the Wagamama chain, but don’t go expecting

in 2007. The city’s gain is the countryside’s loss

simple bowls of noodles here. We’re talking

because the British food here is outstanding. Some

stir-fried jellyfish, steamed eel and soft-shell crab;

of the more eclectic picks on the menu include

London 101

london guide_FINAL.indd 21

21

7/6/2009 11:48:18 AM

Left: The River Cafe Below: Le Gavroche.

Hereford snail, Cornish spider crab and roasted quail. A three-course set menu is £65.

If you ever doubted that every conceivable

The oldest restaurant on this list is Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill (020 7734 4756), which first served hungry Londoners in 1916. Under the

kind of food could be found in London,

guidance of owner and head chef Richard Corrigan,

Sushinho (020 7349 7496), a Brazilian-Japanese

who keeps the Piccadilly restaurant as faithful to

fusion restaurant, will put your mind to rest.

the original prototype as possible, Bentley’s still flies

With a sprinkling of miso here, a touch of

high. Naturally enough, the oysters are the menu

chimichurri sauce there, and a welcoming bossa

standout, but don’t ignore the excellent grilled fish.

nova soundtrack, this super-swanky Chelsea

The ever-excellent Arbutus (020 7734 4545) is

restaurant rewards brave diners with leftfield

hugely popular with Soho office workers due to its

wonders such as sashimi pizza, sweet potato gyoza

fantastic lunch deal: £15.50 for three courses of

and grilled wasabi prawns.

exquisite food. And it’s equally busy in the evenings

Leafy Richmond in the south-west of London has

when theatregoers take advantage of the £17.50

plenty going for it. There’s the medieval alleyways,

early dinner deal. If you get a chance to try the

the quaint shops, the grazing deer in Richmond

seafood bouillabaisse or the roast rabbit, you’re

Park and The Victoria (020 8876 4238), one of

certain to leave with a smile on your face.

London’s top restaurants. Expect friendly service, fresh seasonal produce and good old-fashioned

You’ll find no shortage of Indian food in London, but two restaurants have taken the cuisine to

British cooking - try the roasted lamb shank for

another level. The first is Amaya (020 7823 1166)

Sunday lunch and spend the afternoon walking off

in Knightsbridge, a contemporary Indian tapas

the calories in the neighbouring fields.

restaurant. The dishes are unlike any you’ve seen

22

London 101

london guide_FINAL.indd 22

7/6/2009 11:48:23 AM

Clockwise from below: Hibiscus, Nahm, Arbutus, Moro

before - the jackfruit biryani, spinach and chopped fig cakes, and mango tiramisu are creations of near otherworldly brilliance. Meanwhile, at Moti Mahal (020 7240 9329), Chef Anirudh Arora creates luxurious pan-Indian concoctions such as guinea fowl with cumin, venison kebabs with saffron and figs, and courgettes stuffed with shrimp paste.

Unlikely though it may seem, one of the best Thai

While London is home to some truly superb restaurants, there is culinary life just outside the

chefs in the world is Australian. David Thompson’s

capital too, if you’re happy to take a short trip

cookbook, Thai Food, is considered the last word

outside the city. Indeed, on a small, nondescript

on the south-east Asian cuisine, and his Michelin-

street in the village of Bray on the outskirts of

starred London restaurant, Nahm at the Halkin (020

London, you’ll find the second best restaurant in the

7333 1234), is almost as good as a trip to Bangkok.

world. The head chef of The Fat Duck (01628 580

Thompson combines street food techniques with

333), Heston Blumenthal, is a pioneer of molecular

haute cuisine ingredients to a dizzying effect.

gastronomy, using the principles of physics and

Book well in advance if you’d like to eat at Moro

chemistry to create unique dishes. A seafood dish

(7833 8336), the ‘Muslim Mediterranean’ restaurant

comes with an iPod playing ocean sounds, a cup of

on Exmouth Market that’s won several awards and

tea leaves one side of the mouth hot and the other

spawned a trio of bestselling cookbooks. European

cold, and signature dishes include sardines on toast

and Arabic styles fuse seamlessly on the menu. Try

sorbet and snail porridge.

the charcoal-grilled lamb with slow-cooked leeks.

Arranging a meal at The Fat Duck isn’t easy:

For straightforward Lebanese food prepared

it’s a 45-minute train journey from central London,

thrillingly well, head to the glamorous Fakhreldine

the tasting menu costs £130, and you have to book

(020 7493 3424) on Piccadilly. It’s one of the top

months in advance to get a seat. But you’ll

spots in town for kebbeh neyah (raw minced lamb)

be rewarded with one of the planet’s greatest

and muhammara (spicy crushed walnuts).

eating experiences.

London 101

london guide_FINAL.indd 23

23

7/6/2009 11:48:34 AM

Advertisement Feature

To Sample the 1. Best of British

terminal in the whole of Heathrow and home to the shortest security queues. Terminal 1 also houses

Heathrow’s just got a whole lot hipper thanks

a number of BMI’s Star Alliance sister partners,

to the launch of Number One Heathrow, BMI’s

meaning that if you’re flying in from the Middle East

international lounge that offers guests a super

and on to the US or Europe, you don’t have to lug

stylish stop between flights. Housed in Terminal

your luggage through to another terminal in order to

1, the lounge showcases some of Britain’s top

catch your flight.

talents. We’re talking culinary creations form the

Experience 3. ToSuperior Service

award-winning champion of British food, Mark Hix, furniture designed by Tom Dixon and original works of art created by celebrated Royal Academy of

BMI is the number one airline out of London

Art graduate Phil Shaw. Our advice for making the

Heathrow’s Terminal 1 and the only airline at

most of your time here? Enjoy a hot shower before

Heathrow to offer customers who fly business class

curling up on a daybed to tuck into a Hix-branded

a 30 minute check-in promise. That means you

rhubarb crumble ice cream. Awesome.

can check-in as late as 30 minutes before your

2.

flight is due to depart. What’s more, BMI staff will

To Fly Through Terminal 1

relieve you of your luggage and travel documents to complete the check-in formalities while you simply

Thanks to airlines moving to other terminals within

sit back and relax. Fly business class and you’ll

Heathrow, a staggering 8 million fewer passengers

also be chauffeur driven to your end destination in

now pass through Terminal 1, making it the quietest

London – anywhere within a 50 mile radius.

bmi advertorial.indd 4

6/29/2009 9:22:23 PM

When planning your trawl of London’s museums,

a half million objects representing 3,000 years of

top of your list should be the British Museum,

human history, you can’t argue with them. Whatever

which opened in 1753, although the current

you’re interested in, be it Chinese art, early Islamic

building arrived a century later. Its aim is to present

history, 18th century fashion, Renaissance sculpture

the story of human culture from its beginning to the

or Turkish pottery, you can find it here. Free guided

present day, so it’ll deserve at least a few hours of

tours take place four times daily and last an hour,

your time. Among its seven million items are some

and before you leave, grab a scone and a cup of

of the world’s greatest treasures: a colossal bust

tea in the majestic V&A Café, the first museum

of Rameses II, the Rosetta Stone, the Parthenon

restaurant in the world and still one of the most

Marbles and 140 mummies and coffins, the largest

visually spectacular.

collection outside Cairo. The centre of the museum

You don’t have to be a boffin to enjoy the

was redeveloped at the start of the decade - its

Science Museum, which celebrated its centenary

Great Court boasts a spectacular glass roof

year in 2009. It does a fantastic job of explaining

designed by Sir Norman Foster and is bigger than a

how advances in technology have affected

football pitch.

everyday life. Its exhibits include the first locomotive

South Kensington and Knightsbridge, on the

train, the Apollo 10 space module, and the first ever

south side of Hyde Park, are home to a cluster of

microcomputer from 1965. The museum houses

museums. A giant Diplodocus skeleton dominates

an IMAX cinema, which shows films on sea

the main hall of the Natural History Museum,

monsters, sharks, bugs and dinosaurs on the

while in other rooms you’ll find everything from

mega-sized screen.

fossilized shark teeth to rare gemstones, a

Over on the south side of the river, the Imperial

preserved body of a giant squid and a full-size

War Museum opened during the First World War

model blue whale. For summer 2009, they set up

‘not as a monument of military glory, but a record

a fantastic butterfly house, turning a section of the

of toil and sacrifice’. The ground floor is full of

museum into an indoor rainforest.

weaponry, tanks, submarines, cannons and Spitfire

On the same road, the Victoria & Albert

planes, but it’s the permanent exhibitions on the

Museum claims to be ‘the world’s greatest

horrors of the two world wars and the Holocaust

museum of art and design’, and with over four and

that stay in your head well after you leave.

London 101

london guide_FINAL.indd 25

25

7/6/2009 11:48:57 AM

Clockwise from left: The British Museum, Victoria & Albert Museum, Shakespeare’s Globe.

From the Imperial War Museum it’s only a 15minute walk through Southwark to Shakespeare’s Globe. The original theatre was destroyed by fire during a production of Henry VIII in 1613 and the second Globe was abolished by a Puritan government in 1642. Its third incarnation opened in 1997, a faithful-as-possible rebuilding of the original

decades. Daily backstage tours are available and

theatre that took nearly 30 years to complete.

£10 tickets are available for sold out shows if you

It’s a wonderfully atmospheric place to watch

queue up from 9.30am on the day of performance.

Shakespeare, and standing tickets are only £5, one of London’s best cultural bargains.

Follow the river to the West, and you’ll find

Also in the arts complex known as the South Bank is the British Film Institute. Don’t expect to find the latest Hollywood blockbusters

Britain’s National Theatre. The complex houses

here, or even necessarily British movies; the centre

three auditoria; the biggest, the Olivier Theatre, is

specialises in independent films from around the

named after the NT’s first artistic director and one

world and gives filmgoers the chance to rewatch

of the nation’s greatest ever stage actors, Lawrence

classics on the big screen. If you’ve time to kill

Olivier. The building’s notorious Brutalist architecture

before a screening, you can hunt for bargains in the

divides opinions, but few can doubt its pivotal role

used book fair by the river, or order tea and cake in

at the centre of British theatre over the last few

the excellent BFI café.

26

London 101

london guide_FINAL.indd 26

7/6/2009 11:49:03 AM

From Les Miserables to Chicago and The Lion

Isolde, Carmen and La Traviata. Don’t worry if your

King, the West End of London is the capital of the

German, French and Italian isn’t up to scratch -

world when it comes to musicals. Locally known

English subtitles accompany every performance.

as Theatreland, the area surrounding Leicester

Just about every movement in European art

Square continues to be a huge tourist draw, not

from the thirteenth century to 1900 is represented

least because huge stars such as Matt Damon,

somewhere in the National Gallery’s priceless

Gwyneth Paltrow and Madonna have attempted

collection of paintings. Unlike most other major art

to prove their acting chops on the London stage

museums, the National Gallery’s collection is owned

in recent years. It’s advisable to purchase tickets

not by a private individual, but by the people of the

online in advance because sold-out theatres are

United Kingdom, which means it’s free to visit at

commonplace. But sometimes you can get a great

all times. Highlights include works by Leonardo da

deal on last-minute seats from the Tkts stand in the

Vinci, Titian, Vincent Van Gogh and Claude Monet.

centre of Leicester Square, where cut-price tickets are sold on a first-come, first-served basis.

The most magical theatre experience in London,

The adjoining building is the National Portrait Gallery, home to 10,000 portraits of famous and influential Brits. These subjects vary from kings and

however, can be found at the Open Air Theatre,

queens to William Shakespeare, Bob Geldof and

which presents a season of plays, comedy and

Paul McCartney. The BP Portrait Award takes place

live music every summer under the night sky in

every summer, with the shortlisted paintings and

Regent’s Park. Do what streetwise Londoners

photographs available to view in a free exhibition.

do - arrive early with a rug, some cushions and

Both the National Gallery and the National Portrait

a tasty picnic, and keep your fingers and toes

Gallery are open late (until 9pm) on Friday evenings.

crossed for good evening weather. Another glorious

London’s other great art collection can be found

setting for outdoor concerts is Kenwood House,

at Tate Britain which focuses on British art. The

a former stately home on the edge of Hampstead

permanent collection covers 500 years from 1500

Heath, which featured in the film Notting Hill. Every

to the present day, and includes works by artists

summer, a series of weekend concerts is held on

such as William Hogarth, Francis Bacon and

the estate. In 2009, Simply Red, Ray Davies and

Thomas Gainsborough. The gallery organises the

James Morrison performed here.

controversial Turner Prize, an annual award given

For something a little more high-minded, the

to a British artist aged under 50. Recent shortlisted

Royal Opera House is just the job. The first two

entries have included an empty room with a light

opera houses burned down in fires in 1808 and

going on and off, an unmade bed, and a shark

1857 and though large sections of 1858’s third

preserved in formaldehyde.

attempt still remain, most of the building was

The Tate Modern, a museum of international

reconstructed in the 1990s. Operas scheduled

modern art, dazzles visitors before they’ve even

for late 2009 and early 2010 include Tristan und

entered the galleries. The building used to be one

London 101

london guide_FINAL.indd 27

27

7/6/2009 11:49:04 AM

Left: Kenwood House, Below: The Tate Modern and Millennium Bridge.

of London’s major power stations, and the ground

atrocious. The walls are regularly scrubbed clean,

floor Turbine Hall, which once housed electricity

but the art will usually be replaced by something

generators, is now used for large-scale site-specific

else within days. Look out for works by Banksy -

installations. One recent exhibit featured a giant

art by the notoriously secretive street artist has sold

crack across the floor of the huge hall. While several

for thousands of pounds.

visitors fell in and sustained minor injuries, the

London truly excels when it comes to live music.

crack confirmed the Tate Modern’s commitment to

On any day of the week, hundreds of concerts

strange and thought-provoking art.

take place, spanning every thinkable genre; from

London’s grassroots arts scene buzzes like

rock bands playing to a handful of people in tiny

no other city’s, but you’ll have to leave the major

spaces to superstars such as Bruce Springsteen

galleries behind and head to Shoreditch and Hoxton

performing for thousands of people. There are three

to find it. These neighbouring districts of east

main concert halls at the South Bank Centre,

London are famed for their dozens of tiny galleries

although events also take place in the lobby, the

in which you’ll find the cutting edge of the UK

ballroom, and the space by the River Thames

art scene.

outside. All types of music are represented here,

The White Cube gallery on Hoxton Square is the area’s best-known haunt for challenging and

from jazz to blues, rock to opera, and the acoustics are always crystal clear.

provocative new art, but there’s no need to step

London’s other major concert hall is the

indoors at all. The walls in this area are covered

Barbican Centre, which puts on an equally

head-to-toe in street art; some brilliant, some

eclectic schedule of live music, dance, theatre and

28

London 101

london guide_FINAL.indd 28

7/6/2009 11:49:08 AM

Clockwise from far left: Piccadilly Circus, Tate Britain, White Cube gallery.

film. The London Symphony Orchestra, one of the world’s most acclaimed orchestras, is based at the Barbican and performs frequently.

Immortalised in the Beatles’ song A Day in the Life, the Royal Albert Hall, opened by Queen Victoria in 1871, is the UK’s best loved concert venue. Every year since 1941, the Albert Hall has hosted The Proms, a two-month summer festival

Brazilian flamenco, mime, ballet and circus troupes.

At the Institute for Contemporary Arts,

of classical music and enthusiastic flag-waving

there’s something for everyone, all of it stimulating

organised by the BBC. At the end of 2009 the

and challenging. Its cinema screens films you’re

venue would have staged over 100 concerts,

unlikely to find anywhere else, its concert hall puts

celebrating the music of composers such as Henry

the spotlight on little-known music from around the

Purcell, Felix Mendelssohn and Edward Elgar. It also

world, its galleries host group shows of challenging

hosts pop concerts, too. The Rolling Stones, Led

work, and its busy programme of talks and debates

Zeppelin, The Who, and of course, The Beatles,

covers art, culture, philosophy, literature, politics

have all performed in the hall’s lavish domed interior.

and just about everything else.

For something a little different, spend an evening

After a trip to the ICA, you’ll be looking for

at Sadler’s Wells, which specialises in physical

something a bit more light-hearted. At the long-

theatre and dance. When Richard Sadler opened

established Comedy Store in Piccadilly Circus,

an Islington theatre in 1683, this area was still rural

well-known comedians take part in a live version

- the second part of the theatre’s name comes

of TV’s Whose Line Is It Anyway, the improvised

from the medicinal well water found on the site. The

comedy game with plenty of audience participation.

current theatre, the sixth to open on this site, invites

With several personalities from the original TV show

dance groups from all over the world to perform.

and the pick of improvised comedy’s younger

Recent productions have featured Shaolin monks,

generation on board, you’re guaranteed a laugh.

London 101

london guide_FINAL.indd 29

29

7/6/2009 11:49:13 AM

All roads lead to Trafalgar Square, at the very

were destroyed in a fire. It’s the home of British

heart of London. Despite the city’s vast size, most

government, and visitors are able to attend

of its main attractions are within walking distance

parliamentary debates during the week. No tickets

of here. At the square’s centre is Nelson’s Column,

are required, although there’s usually a big queue

a statue built to pay tribute to Admiral Horatio

in the morning outside the St Stephen’s entrance.

Nelson, who died in the Battle of Trafalgar in

The clock tower at the north end of the Palace

1805. Four bronze lions loyally guard the statue,

of Westminster is universally known as Big Ben,

and four plinths – one of which is used to display

although the nickname actually only refers to the

contemporary art – mark the corners of the square.

great bell inside the clock.

Trafalgar Square has played a huge role in the city’s history, as the place where Londoners

At the large Gothic church next door, Westminster Abbey, almost every British monarch

congregate when they want to celebrate – or

for the past thousand years has been crowned

demonstrate.

and buried. The building isn’t reserved for royalty,

Walk down The Mall until you reach Buckingham Palace, home to every British monarch since Queen Victoria. Every

although you’ll need to do something pretty impressive to join the likes of William Shakespeare, Charles Darwin, Geoffrey Chaucer and Sir Issac

summer, when Queen Elizabeth and

Newton. The 700-year-old building is open to

Prince Phillip holiday in Scotland,

visitors six days a week (on Sunday it’s closed).

the palace’s nineteen State Rooms

Take the short walk to the River Thames and hop

are opened to the public. These

into a capsule in Europe’s biggest Ferris wheel.

lavish rooms are used to entertain

The London Eye was only meant to be a

foreign guests and are regally

temporary structure, but plans to take it down in

appointed with paintings by the likes

2005 were dropped after it had rapidly become

of Rembrandt and Rubens.

the city’s most popular tourist attraction, boasting

The Houses of Parliament were

over three million visitors a year. In the course of its

constructed in the mid-nineteenth

30-minute journey – it moves very slowly – you can

century after the original buildings

look out over this vast city and, on a clear day, see

london guide_FINAL.indd 30

7/6/2009 11:49:14 AM

Clockwise from far left: Houses Of Parliament, The London Eye, Buckingham Palace.

almost everything. At night, when some of London’s most beautiful buildings are lit up, it’s even more spectacular.

The most famous of these structures, St Paul’s, celebrated its 300th anniversary last year. Architect Sir Christopher Wren’s masterpiece is the fourth

For more stories of the ghoulish variety, don’t

cathedral to stand on this Ludgate Hill site; its

miss the London Dungeon. The staff dressed

predecessor was destroyed in the Great Fire of

as vampires on the street outside give you a taste

London. Visitors can climb the 259 steps to the

of what’s to come – a fun-filled, tongue-in-cheek

Whispering Gallery, so called because the unique

romp through London’s scarier side. Using actors,

acoustics allow a whisper to bounce from one side

rides and special effects, the Dungeon gets grisly

of the dome to the other. From here, it’s a punishing

with tales of murder, torture and execution. Expect

530 steps to the Golden Gallery, which boasts awe-

macabre encounters with Sweeney Todd and

inspiring views of the city.

Jack the Ripper.

At the Tower of London there are always

Far friendlier characters await visitors at London

lengthy queues to see the Crown Jewels, worn by

Zoo, the world’s oldest scientific zoo, although you

the Queen every year for the opening of parliament.

wouldn’t want to attract attention to yourself in the

It’s not all glamorous: executions haven’t taken

tiger enclosure. The Zoological Society of London

place at the tower since the Second World War, but

has worked hard to recreate the animals’ natural

confirmation of the site’s bloody past is here for all

habitats so they have plenty of space to roam about

to see, with an assortment of swords and axes in

in. Kids will love getting acquainted with Bobby,

the White Tower, built by William the Conqueror in

Zaire and Effie, the stars of Gorilla Kingdom, while

1078. The guided tours are great fun, especially for

architecture buffs will admire the striking buildings,

kids, who’ll love the gory tales and ghost stories -

from the stylish art-deco penguin pool to the

the site is supposedly haunted by the spirit of

modernist concrete elephant house.

Anne Boleyn, one of two wives of Henry VIII had executed at the tower.

Take a 15-minute stroll from the zoo to Camden Town and you’ll be swept down Chalk Farm Road

London 101

london guide_FINAL.indd 31

31

7/6/2009 11:49:21 AM

in a restless tide of leather jackets, nose rings, hair extensions and tattoos. London’s artists and

Below: Camden Lock, Below left: Tower of London.

musicians may have flocked en masse to the East End in search of lower rents, but there’s no disputing Camden Town’s status as London’s countercultural hub. The Camden Markets are a treasure trove of antiques, arts and crafts, fresh and wholesome foods, and eye-catching furniture from across the globe. In local boutiques you’ll find an extraordinary range of fashion for purchase – designer suits rub padded shoulders with vintage designs, catwalk classics and urban wear.

Two other London markets should not be missed. Portobello Road, open every Saturday, is the world’s largest antiques market. You can find some fantastic deals on jewellery, sculptures,

place to go for delicious fresh-cooked street food.

paintings and furniture. And if you’re feeling peckish,

It’s open from Thursday to Saturday, although at the

make sure you visit Borough Market, the

weekend the queues for lunch get so long you’d be better off flying home and preparing the food yourself.

Spread across 350 acres at the heart of London, Hyde Park offers beautiful landscaped gardens, snug cafés, and many perfect spots for a picnic and a read of the newspapers. It’s divided in two by the Serpentine Lake, where swans flutter away from visitors making a splash in rented rowing boats. Located next to the lake, the Serpentine Gallery always has a fascinating art exhibition on, while elsewhere in the park is the Princess of Wales Memorial Fountain, where people pay their respects to Lady Diana.

London’s biggest park is Hampstead Heath, and its highest point, Parliament Hill, offers a stunning panorama of London. The view from here is so good it’s protected by law. If you’re feeling brave and fancy a dip, there are separate outdoor swimming pools for men and women here, and facilities for many other sports.

32

London 101

london guide_FINAL.indd 32

7/6/2009 11:49:26 AM

Stylish.

Discreet.

Contemporary.

51 Buckingham Gate, Taj Suites and Residences is a unique five star townhouse hotel located in the heart of Westminster, offering privacy with ultimate luxury in its wonderfully spacious suites, combining the best of contemporary design and comfort for a short or extended stay.

The hotel boasts an award-winning private courtyard, attentive butlers, an indulgent spa, and the Michelin starred Quilon, where head chef Sriram Aylur serves light but authentic Indian coastal cuisine; which makes 51 an ideal haven away from home.

For further information or to book: Reservations +44 (0)20 7769 7766 Website www.51-buckinghamgate.com

Untitled-4 1

6/24/2009 2:33:16 PM