in association with
LONdon 101 THE LOWDOWN ON THE WORLD’S GREATEST CITY
hotels culture shops sights restaurants
kanoo world traveller
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London 101
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London 101
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WELCOME TO MAYFAIR’S ABSOLUTE DESTINATION The London Marriott Hotel Grosvenor Square has reinvented the London townhouse with a £20 million refurbishment. An exclusive new Club Floor features 45 of London’s most sublime rooms and suites with 4-poster beds, wooden floors and fireplaces – some with a private garden terrace. Home to Gordon Ramsay’s maze Restaurant and maze Grill, our hotel infuses contemporary chic with classic luxury. The London Marriott Hotel Grosvenor Square, London W1K 6JP Tel: +44 (0)20 7493 1232 Fax +44 (0)20 7491 3201 Email: mark.aldridge@marriotthotels.com MarriottGrosvenorSquare.com
51 Buckingham Gate offers five-star-finery by the
diners a uniquely brilliant experience as they feast
case-load. Formed of three individually-designed
on a 10-course degustation menu while watching a
buildings which date to 1901, it’s an architectural
team of up to 100 chefs cook up a storm in
delight and houses a top-notch line up of amenities
the kitchen.
to boot: Quilon, the in-house restaurant, boasts
Over at Brown’s – an ideal base for anyone
the talents of Michelin-starred chef Sriram Aylur,
looking to check out the best of Bond Street –
while Spa at 51 is a favourite with in-the-know
you’ll find a marvellous building steeped in history.
Londoners. Location-wise the hotel is slap bang
In its original guise this was London’s very first
in the heart of Westminster – perfect if you’re
hotel, opened in 1837 by husband and wife
planning on a trip to Buckingham Palace – and a
team James and Sarah Brown. It’s the building in
mere stroll from the pristine Green Park, ideal for
which Alexander Graham Bell made the first ever
a post-breakfast saunter. We advise a leather and
telephone call and Rudyard Kipling purportedly
suede-clad suite in the King’s building, from
penned ‘The Jungle Book’. Today, Brown’s is famed
which you can look out onto the Houses of
for its sumptuous suites and culinary charms, with
Parliament. Perfect.
an oh-so-delectable, award-winning afternoon tea
Another hotel that’s chockfull of traditional charm
served up daily and a restaurant – The Albemarle –
is The Dorchester. Here you’ll find immaculate
offering diners the best of British not only in terms
suites, a stunning art-deco-style spa – it’s recently
of food but art, too, with its walls lined with original
reopened following a complete transformation – and
works by the likes of Tracy Emin.
the much-loved Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester,
Grosvenor House, on prestigious Park Lane, is
which didn’t take long to establish itself as one of
also something of a masterpiece, having undergone
the city’s best restaurants following its opening in
a multi-million pound refurbishment to accentuate
2007. If you want to top off your stay in style, book
its traditional charm. Many a famous face has
The Krug Room for dinner. It’s the original chef’s
passed through the hotel’s doors down the years
table, having opened in the 1940s, and remains one
and it retains a loyal following among the social
of the most sought-after tables in town, granting
elite. But it’s through food that Grosvenor Houseis
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Left: Haymarket Hotel. Below: London Marriott Grosvenor Square.
currently finding fame, with Corrigan’s Mayfair
the epitome of style, with communal guest areas
racking up praise-filled column inches – London’s
liberally splashed with unique, original works of
leading newspaper The Evening Standard voted it
modern art and distinctly eye-grabbing sculptures
restaurant of the year for 2008/09 – and fantastic
dotted throughout. We prescribe a stay in one
French brasserie Bord’eaux now something of
of two beautifully decorated penthouse suites.
a must-dine. We recommend the feather-light
Although this is definitely a modern masterpiece,
buttered, poached smoked haddock at Corrigan’s
you can still enjoy some traditions: a decadent
Mayfair followed by some English cheeses.
afternoon tea is served in the library.
Gourmets will also find favour with what’s on
A favourite destination for tourists and locals
offer at the magnificently restored London Marriott
alike, Covent Garden is an area that throbs with
Hotel Grosvenor Square, which houses Gordon
energy and it’s here that you’ll find the brilliant
Ramsay’s renowned eatery, Maze – last year saw
St Martin’s Lane. The fact that you enter the
it voted the country’s best restaurant at the UK
hotel through luminescent revolving doors provides
Restaurant Awards – and its laidback offshoot Maze
a none-too-subtle hint of the kind of wit-infused
Grill. Yet it’s the super-stylish rooms which hark
design – Phillipe Starck is the man responsible
back to the Mayfair of yesteryear which are arguably
– that makes this hotel such a distinctive venue,
the hotel’s biggest draw. We’re big fans of the
and there are playful elements throughout. You’ll
decidedly plush garden suites, for their four-poster-
even find them on the menu at the art-strewn Asia
beds, marbled bathrooms, warming fireplaces and,
de Cuba restaurant, where all dishes are served
of course, private courtyard gardens.
to share with your fellow diners. Just make sure
Right in the heart of London’s buzzing theatre district is the oh-so-trendy Haymarket Hotel. It’s 8
you snag the lion’s share of the awesome Mexican doughnuts when dessert is served.
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Mayfair is the heart of London Brown’s is the heart of Mayfair. This chic hotel offers the perfect home-away-from-home. Boasting luxurious rooms and suites that you will never want to leave, outstanding dining that you will never forget and heavenly spa treatments, Brown’s is the only address you need in London.
Albermarle Street, London, W1S 4BP Tel: 020 7493 6020 Fax: 020 7493 9381 E-mail: reservations.browns@roccofortecollection.com www.roccofortecollection.com
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Clockwise from left: Sanctum Soho Hotel, The Dorchester, 51 Buckingham Gate, The Kipling Suite at Brown’s.
Also up west is designer Lesley Purcell’s homage to the Soho district of London, the Sanctum Soho Hotel. All of its thirty rooms are uniquely designed to celebrate the diversity of
unique. How about booking into the Lioness’ Den?
the area in which the hotel stands and to match
It’s a wooden-floored, wicker furniture-scattered
the moods of its guests – the playful union jack
space where the bed is suspended from the ceiling.
pillows in one room add a kick of kitsch. But we’re
Another aesthetic gem outside of the city’s hub –
more taken with the terrific little rooftop spa, where
to the east of London in the still fashionable area of
you can drink in views of central London from an
Shoreditch – is the brand-spanking new Boundary.
alfresco Jacuzzi.
It’s the brainchild of international design magnate
Separated from the cluster of city centre hotels is
Sir Terence Conran – whose signature suite, The
beautiful boutique hotel The Hempel, which bears
Conran, is split over two floors and features a
the name of its designer, the multi-award winning
selection of his personal furniture – and his wife
Anouska Hempel. It’s housed amid a gorgeous
Vicki, who have filled this boutique hotel with quite
garden mere minutes from Hyde Park and the
wonderful works of art. It’s a small yet perfectly
leafy Notting Hill. And if its location offers visitors to
packaged retreat for those with a definite eye for
London a break from the norm, its suites are utterly
the finer things.
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When in London a trip to Harrods is almost
accessories on the ground floor where the style
obligatory. Try to leave plenty of time to explore
is uniquely fashion-forward – where else can you
its myriad departments, though the fashion halls
combine a Top Shop dress with a Gucci bag
would be a good place to start. From traditional and
and Karen Millen shoes? Upstairs there’s a great
classic lines to pieces created by more cutting edge
selection of more unusual vintage buys alongside
young British designers, you can immerse yourself
international designer collections. The men’s
in rack after rack of the very latest styles. But if that
department rivals any store in the world with a great
sounds like too much of a chore, head to Harrods
selection from street-style to bespoke suiting, and
BY APPOINTMENT on the store’s first and lower
if it’s gifts you’re after then where better than the
ground floors, where a team of expert shoppers are
‘Wonder Room’ where Selfridges’ team of buyers
on hand to trawl the store for you, servicing your
have combined all the best presents from across
every need.
the shop so you don’t have to search far to find the
While in Knightsbridge you should also take time
perfect item.
to visit the original Harvey Nichols. Famed as the
Slightly less well known by tourists, but still
favourite shopping destination of the late Princess
renowned for its exquisite brand selection and
of Wales, Harvey Nicks (as it is known to its Sloane
chic environment, is Liberty. Shopping here is
Ranger clientele) is stocked to the brim with all your
not really about the level of choice – the brand
favourite labels. The juice bar on the ground floor is
selection is more restricted than the bigger stores
the fashionable spot to re-fuel, or if you are looking
– but about quality. Liberty has recently developed
for something a little more substantial the store’s
its own brand offering, featuring its famed and
‘Fifth Floor’ restaurant is famed for serving up great
quintessentially English Liberty print - think discreet
food and drinks – reservations are always necessary
florals and harmonious paisleys. In fact, the whole
so remember to book ahead.
haberdashery department is superb, and you can
If fashion is your passion and you want to do all your shopping under one roof then Selfridges
also pick up leather goods and clothing in classic designs – you will be an English rose in no time.
should be your store of choice. High street and
If you are in the mood for the ultimate in British
young fashion labels compete with international
retail therapy then a visit to Fortnum and Mason
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Clockwise from left: Harrods exterior, Harrods BY APPOINTMENT.
is another must. Just along from the Ritz London and a stone’s throw from Bond Street, Fortnums is more British than Buckingham Palace and more traditional than the infamous stiff upper lip. You may not be able to purchase an ipod here but you can buy incredible treat-filled hampers and beautiful
Agent Provocateur store in Soho, where you
accessories. Yo must also sample the wondrous
will find exquisitely made separates with a nod to
cream tea at the store’s St James’s restaurant.
burlesque – expect silk, satin, lace and intricate
Away from the city’s department stores, Vivienne Westwood, at World’s End along the
embroidery combined with vintage designs. The Luella boutique is a fashion lover’s must-
King’s Road, is a sight to behold – you know
visit. This is Luella Bartley’s only stand-alone store,
you are in for a treat when you spot the large
and couture lovers will find the whole collection
clock which tells the time backwards outside the
on display here. Luella won the coveted British
entrance. Vivienne Westwood’s mixture of ‘punk
Designer of The Year award in 2008 so this is as
street style’ and haute couture is as relevant now
fashion-forward as it gets. And as this collection is
as it was in 1979 when the store opened. Heels
only available on a very limited basis in the Middle
are still skyscraper-high and corsets abound – this
East, it’s almost guaranteed that you won’t find
collection is definitely not for shrinking violets. And
anyone else at home sporting the same outfit.
if Vivienne’s directional brands are your thing then why not keep it in the family and visit her son’s
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Another London essential is Jaeger. Though now available worldwide, the exclusive 125
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harrods.com +44 (0)20 7730 1234
ENTER A DIFFERENT WORLD
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Clockwise from bottom: Tiffany & Co, Liberty, Liberty interior.
collection, celebrating 125 years of the brand,
range designed by supermodel Kate Moss, and you
can be difficult to come by. If you want to get your
will not be disappointed with the flagship store. Just
hands on one of these iconic designs a visit to this
make sure you have the stamina for the experience.
Soho store should feature in your shopping plans.
Top Shop, in Oxford Circus, is never quiet and
It’s located just off the infamous Carnaby Street so
as the range and prices appeal to fashionistas
you can also tick this off your list, too.
of all ages you might need to elbow a few fellow
Of course not all British fashion is avent garde. Burberry’s world-renowned raincoats are available along with the rest of their chic collection at its New
shoppers out of the way to get your hands on that unique little vintage number. As a fan of high street stores It goes without
Bond Street store - even if you visit in the height of
saying that you will love Marks and Spencer.
the English summer a stylish raincoat may prove
London is home to the M&S flagship store, where
something of a necessity. The Aquascutum store
you will find the usual fabulous food department
includes a range of traditional checks and also a fair
and the entire Per Una, Autograph and Limited
few raincoats, but styling here is more traditional -
Collection lines.
the label is a favourite of the British royal family. If the high street is more your thing, London
Sports enthusiasts will no doubt have heard of Lilywhites, the multi-levelled store on Piccadilly.
is definitely the city for you. Top Shop is now
Here you will find every imaginable piece of sporting
internationally renowned for its lines including a
equipment plus all your favourite sports brands.
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[ SHOP THE WORLD. TAX FREE. ]
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Tax Free shopping for tourists is available at more than 240’000 stores around the world. Simply ask the shop staff for a Refund Cheque and get your money back.
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Left and below: Selfridges
It’s particulary good for football shirts, with a whole
With its long heritage you would expect London
floor stocking the strips of just about every team
to have a fairly booming antiques offering, and the
imaginable. They’ll also add a name and number to
city does not disappoint. Take a trip to Christie’s
your shirt while you wait.
auction house on King Street - simply check their
If you’re after a bit of bling, then Garrard on
website (www.christies.com) to see which sales
Albemarle Street is certainly worth a visit. Famed
are on during your visit. But If you would rather root
as the most dynamic British jeweller - and with
out the treasures yourself then Portobello Market
Mick Jagger of the Rolling Stones’ daughter Jade
is fantastic. Expect a cornucopia of fascinating
as creative director - you can be sure of real rock
trinkets, furniture, fashion and objets d’art.
and roll styling. For a high street jeweller, your best
There is some fine furniture to be had in London -
option is definitely Mappin and Webb where you
many of the leading stores will arrange shipment to
will find a supreme selection of famous names.
the Middle East - and nowhere is this more evident
But If the three c’s are more your thing then you
than Heals, where stylish contemporary design
cannot better a trip to Hatton Garden. Here you
is teamed with high quality materials to ensure
can romance your loved one like a true Londoner
modern elegance. If your taste is a little more
by choosing a stone and setting and designing your
leftfield, then The Conran Shop, in the magnificent
own ring – make sure to shop around to ensure
Michelin building on Fulham Road, is probably more
you’re getting the best possible
your thing – this is where the seriously stylish furnish
price. If you get a chance, pay
their pied à terres.
Hirschfields a visit – they are the
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London is famed for its shopping districts and
oldest established manufacturing
the King’s Road is a great place to browse.
jewellers in the world and have a
Starting at Sloane Square – home to the Peter
vintage collection to die for.
Jones department store and a particularly
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Clockwise from below: Burberry, Knightsbridge store, The Conran shop, Bond Street.
glamorous branch of Tiffany & Co – you can walk for well over an hour and be spoilt for choice for boutiques. Don’t miss the Joseph sales shop, set amongst the high street favourites, for some of last
prestigious with every year that passes. You will
season’s stylish essentials. Have lunch in Henry J
be spoilt for choice with designer brands – Prada,
Beans or the wonderful Bluebird restaurant before
Max Mara and Ralph Lauren all boast sizeable
continuing on to the far end of the street which is
stores. And it’s also home to flagship stores from
home to some seriously chic home brands. The
Donna Karan and Burberry. If you’re on the hunt
Cath Kidson boutique is outstanding and Osborne
for uniquely British brands, head to Russell and
and Little will provide the ultimate traditional British
Bromley for fantastic footwear, or Smythson for the
touches to your home with top wall coverings.
ultimate English leather goods.
South Molton Street has remained a choice
Last but not least, every man should make
destination since the sixties. There are four Browns
it his duty to own a handmade suit, so while in
boutiques here – each more exciting than the last.
London head to the home of bespoke tailoring,
It stocks the ultimate in designer chic
Savile Row. This is where the likes of Winston
from Balenciaga to Marni. Meanwhile, Links of London
The quintessential gentleman’s outfitters Gieves and Hawkes should be your first port of call,
array of modern
followed by a trip to Oswald Boateng’s original
jewellery.
boutique. Tailors here will keep your measurements
becomes more
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Charles were kitted out in custom-made cloth.
stocks a stunning
Bond Street
Left: Wassily chair from The Conran Shop
Churchill, Lord Nelson, and, more recently, Price
on file, so they can run you up a new suit whenever you’re in town. Marvellous.
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See the world. Visit London.
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If you’re looking to try some authentic English food
Executive Chef, Jason Atherton, trained at El Bulli
during your trip, plenty of London restaurants dish
in Barcelona and spent the early part of his career
up a traditional take on the nation’s cuisine.
at Verre in Dubai. At Maze he fuses elements of
The National Dining Rooms (020 7747 2525) at
British, French and Asian cooking to stunning effect.
the National Gallery offers old-fashioned food done
At £28.50, the set lunch offers superb value for
brilliantly well, such as wood pigeon with watercress
money - don’t miss the red mullet bouillabaisse.
and dandelion, smoked haddock and salmon
Vying with Gordon Ramsay for the accolade of
fishcakes, and Eton mess with clotted cream.
being Britain’s most famous chef is Jamie Oliver,
They also do one of London’s best afternoon teas
whose groundbreaking Fifteen (0871 330 1515)
(£14.50) with piles of finger sandwiches, scones
continues to go from strength to strength. The
and dangerously delicious clotted cream.
restaurant is linked to the Fifteen Foundation, a
The carnivorously inclined mustn’t miss St John
registered charity that aims to teach disadvantaged
in Smithfields (020 7251 0848). Its chef and founder
kids the culinary skills required to make it in the
Fergus Henderson has a philosophy of ‘nose-to-
restaurant industry, and its graduates are among
tail eating’ - no edible part of the animal is wasted.
Fifteen’s chefs. The Italian food here is superb; don’t
The menu includes roast bone marrow and parsley
miss the potato gnocchettini with lamb ragu, or the
salad, lamb’s tongue with radishes, and snails with
Sicilian seafood stew.
oak leaf. ‘If you’re going to kill an animal, it seems
One of the most popular steakhouses in
only polite to eat the whole thing,’ Henderson wrote
London, Smiths of Smithfield (020 7251 7950),
in his cookbook. With dishes this good, it’s unlikely
is conveniently located next to London’s biggest
you’ll be leaving food on your plate.
meat market. It’s an ambitious concept, a four-
Maze (020 7107 0000) is regarded as Gordon
floor warehouse with each level offering a slightly
Ramsay’s best London restaurant; a contemporary,
tweaked meaty menu. The best food is on the top
cool and stylish set-up where the food – rather than
floor, a rooftop restaurant with spectacular views
the outspoken owner – does all the talking. The
of the city and chateaubriand steaks large enough
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Photographer: Laurie Fletcher
Clockwise from far left: Chez Bruce, The Woseley, Maze, St John at Smithfields, The National Dining Rooms.
to share. On the ground floor they do a legendarily good weekend brunch. Try the corned beef hash with spinach and fried egg. Another restaurant boasting panoramic views is Skylon (020 7654 7800) at the Royal Festival Hall. It only opened a couple of years ago, but has
lobster on offer, but you can also opt for an Ivy burger at a £11.25. The Wolseley on Piccadilly (020 7499 6996) is
already collected awards for the striking interior
glamorous, grand and slightly over-the-top - perfect
design and Chef Helena Puolakka’s innovative
for special occasions. If you can’t get a table for
creations. The Finnish chef’s signature dishes
dinner, when the menu focuses on French and
include venison carpaccio and pan-fried sea bass.
German food, it’s worth considering breakfast here.
A speedy, great-value pre-concert menu is available
As well as the full English (£13.75), they offer Swiss
if you’re in a hurry.
birchermuseli, Scottish kedgeree, and for a really
Seasoned celebrity-watchers know all about
opulent start to the day, a caviar omelette - you
The Ivy, London’s number one haunt for
won’t be needing coffee to wake you up with its
star-spotting. With the clientele permanently
£52.50 price tag.
scanning the room in hope of seeing famous
A gastronomic revolution in London is all well and
faces, the restaurant could serve up anything
good, but millions of tourists visit every year for fish
and people would barely notice. Yet the food on
and chips. The North Sea Fish Restaurant (020
the international menu remains impressive and
7387 5892), which has come a long way since its
affordable. Naturally enough, there’s caviar and
humble beginnings in 1977, should be top of your
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list. The menu offers far more than the national dish,
contemporary Chinese food in London’s most
but there’s no point ordering anything else. Will it be
stylish restaurant.
cod, haddock, skate or plaice? The influence of Le Gavroche (020 7408 0881)
Nobu (020 7447 4747) was the first Asian restaurant in London to earn a Michelin star.
on the London dining scene cannot be overstated.
Opened by Nobu Matsuhisa in 1997 and given a
It was opened by French brothers Michel and Albert
dose of star quality by co-owner Robert De Niro,
Roux in 1967, became the first restaurant in the
the influential eatery has been lauded for blending
UK to receive three Michelin stars, and some of the
traditional Japanese dishes with South American
country’s most celebrated chefs, including Gordon
touches such as tomato salsa. Don’t go home
Ramsay and Marco Pierre White, have worked in
without devouring their signature dish, the glorious
its kitchens. It’s hardly cheap, although the three-
black cod with miso.
course lunch menu at £48 is a big saving on the evening a la carte menu. Boundary (020 7729 1051) opened for business
Chinatown has traditionally been a no-go area for people who care about food, but things are changing. Among the new restaurants transforming
earlier this year. It’s the latest offering from Terence
the area’s reputation is Keelung (020 7734 8128),
Conran, London’s most successful restaurateur,
London’s first northern Taiwanese outlet. Several
and it’s as ambitious as anything he’s done before.
of the items on the menu are served tapas-style,
It thrives on its unconventional location in arty
which means you can experience a wide range of
Shoreditch and there’s a small boutique hotel and a
unusual dishes. The deep-fried oysters, sea bass
bakery here, too. Expect classic British cooking at
and pepper prawns all make you wish Taiwanese
eminently reasonable prices.
cooking was more widely available.
A recent survey revealed that Chez Bruce (020
A series of bestselling cookbooks and a TV
8672 0114) is Londoners’ favourite restaurant,
series, The Italian Kitchen, have helped The River
although due to its location few tourists go there.
Café (020 7386 4200) in Hammersmith become
This is a shame. The view stretches out over
London’s most popular Italian restaurant. Its
Wandsworth Common, one of London’s biggest
fresh, seasonal Mediterranean food has earned
green spaces, while the kitchen prepares superb
it a Michelin star and the Chocolate Nemesis is
regional French cooking – try the guinea fowl with
London’s most lusted-after dessert. A five-course
potato pancakes.
meal will set you back £80, but you’re guaranteed
There are many fantastic Asian restaurants in London, but Hakkasan (020 7907 1888) is
food of the highest quality. Londoners used to travel to the Welsh border just
the best of the lot. The Michelin-starred eatery
to eat at Hibiscus (020 7629 2999), but thankfully
is the creation of Alan Yau, who gave the world
the Michelin-starred restaurant relocated to London
the Wagamama chain, but don’t go expecting
in 2007. The city’s gain is the countryside’s loss
simple bowls of noodles here. We’re talking
because the British food here is outstanding. Some
stir-fried jellyfish, steamed eel and soft-shell crab;
of the more eclectic picks on the menu include
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Left: The River Cafe Below: Le Gavroche.
Hereford snail, Cornish spider crab and roasted quail. A three-course set menu is £65. If you ever doubted that every conceivable
The oldest restaurant on this list is Bentley’s Oyster Bar & Grill (020 7734 4756), which first served hungry Londoners in 1916. Under the
kind of food could be found in London,
guidance of owner and head chef Richard Corrigan,
Sushinho (020 7349 7496), a Brazilian-Japanese
who keeps the Piccadilly restaurant as faithful to
fusion restaurant, will put your mind to rest.
the original prototype as possible, Bentley’s still flies
With a sprinkling of miso here, a touch of
high. Naturally enough, the oysters are the menu
chimichurri sauce there, and a welcoming bossa
standout, but don’t ignore the excellent grilled fish.
nova soundtrack, this super-swanky Chelsea
The ever-excellent Arbutus (020 7734 4545) is
restaurant rewards brave diners with leftfield
hugely popular with Soho office workers due to its
wonders such as sashimi pizza, sweet potato gyoza
fantastic lunch deal: £15.50 for three courses of
and grilled wasabi prawns.
exquisite food. And it’s equally busy in the evenings
Leafy Richmond in the south-west of London has
when theatregoers take advantage of the £17.50
plenty going for it. There’s the medieval alleyways,
early dinner deal. If you get a chance to try the
the quaint shops, the grazing deer in Richmond
seafood bouillabaisse or the roast rabbit, you’re
Park and The Victoria (020 8876 4238), one of
certain to leave with a smile on your face.
London’s top restaurants. Expect friendly service, fresh seasonal produce and good old-fashioned
You’ll find no shortage of Indian food in London, but two restaurants have taken the cuisine to
British cooking - try the roasted lamb shank for
another level. The first is Amaya (020 7823 1166)
Sunday lunch and spend the afternoon walking off
in Knightsbridge, a contemporary Indian tapas
the calories in the neighbouring fields.
restaurant. The dishes are unlike any you’ve seen
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Clockwise from below: Hibiscus, Nahm, Arbutus, Moro
before - the jackfruit biryani, spinach and chopped fig cakes, and mango tiramisu are creations of near otherworldly brilliance. Meanwhile, at Moti Mahal (020 7240 9329), Chef Anirudh Arora creates luxurious pan-Indian concoctions such as guinea fowl with cumin, venison kebabs with saffron and figs, and courgettes stuffed with shrimp paste. Unlikely though it may seem, one of the best Thai
While London is home to some truly superb restaurants, there is culinary life just outside the
chefs in the world is Australian. David Thompson’s
capital too, if you’re happy to take a short trip
cookbook, Thai Food, is considered the last word
outside the city. Indeed, on a small, nondescript
on the south-east Asian cuisine, and his Michelin-
street in the village of Bray on the outskirts of
starred London restaurant, Nahm at the Halkin (020
London, you’ll find the second best restaurant in the
7333 1234), is almost as good as a trip to Bangkok.
world. The head chef of The Fat Duck (01628 580
Thompson combines street food techniques with
333), Heston Blumenthal, is a pioneer of molecular
haute cuisine ingredients to a dizzying effect.
gastronomy, using the principles of physics and
Book well in advance if you’d like to eat at Moro
chemistry to create unique dishes. A seafood dish
(7833 8336), the ‘Muslim Mediterranean’ restaurant
comes with an iPod playing ocean sounds, a cup of
on Exmouth Market that’s won several awards and
tea leaves one side of the mouth hot and the other
spawned a trio of bestselling cookbooks. European
cold, and signature dishes include sardines on toast
and Arabic styles fuse seamlessly on the menu. Try
sorbet and snail porridge.
the charcoal-grilled lamb with slow-cooked leeks.
Arranging a meal at The Fat Duck isn’t easy:
For straightforward Lebanese food prepared
it’s a 45-minute train journey from central London,
thrillingly well, head to the glamorous Fakhreldine
the tasting menu costs £130, and you have to book
(020 7493 3424) on Piccadilly. It’s one of the top
months in advance to get a seat. But you’ll
spots in town for kebbeh neyah (raw minced lamb)
be rewarded with one of the planet’s greatest
and muhammara (spicy crushed walnuts).
eating experiences.
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When planning your trawl of London’s museums,
a half million objects representing 3,000 years of
top of your list should be the British Museum,
human history, you can’t argue with them. Whatever
which opened in 1753, although the current
you’re interested in, be it Chinese art, early Islamic
building arrived a century later. Its aim is to present
history, 18th century fashion, Renaissance sculpture
the story of human culture from its beginning to the
or Turkish pottery, you can find it here. Free guided
present day, so it’ll deserve at least a few hours of
tours take place four times daily and last an hour,
your time. Among its seven million items are some
and before you leave, grab a scone and a cup of
of the world’s greatest treasures: a colossal bust
tea in the majestic V&A Café, the first museum
of Rameses II, the Rosetta Stone, the Parthenon
restaurant in the world and still one of the most
Marbles and 140 mummies and coffins, the largest
visually spectacular.
collection outside Cairo. The centre of the museum
You don’t have to be a boffin to enjoy the
was redeveloped at the start of the decade - its
Science Museum, which celebrated its centenary
Great Court boasts a spectacular glass roof
year in 2009. It does a fantastic job of explaining
designed by Sir Norman Foster and is bigger than a
how advances in technology have affected
football pitch.
everyday life. Its exhibits include the first locomotive
South Kensington and Knightsbridge, on the
train, the Apollo 10 space module, and the first ever
south side of Hyde Park, are home to a cluster of
microcomputer from 1965. The museum houses
museums. A giant Diplodocus skeleton dominates
an IMAX cinema, which shows films on sea
the main hall of the Natural History Museum,
monsters, sharks, bugs and dinosaurs on the
while in other rooms you’ll find everything from
mega-sized screen.
fossilized shark teeth to rare gemstones, a
Over on the south side of the river, the Imperial
preserved body of a giant squid and a full-size
War Museum opened during the First World War
model blue whale. For summer 2009, they set up
‘not as a monument of military glory, but a record
a fantastic butterfly house, turning a section of the
of toil and sacrifice’. The ground floor is full of
museum into an indoor rainforest.
weaponry, tanks, submarines, cannons and Spitfire
On the same road, the Victoria & Albert
planes, but it’s the permanent exhibitions on the
Museum claims to be ‘the world’s greatest
horrors of the two world wars and the Holocaust
museum of art and design’, and with over four and
that stay in your head well after you leave.
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Clockwise from left: The British Museum, Victoria & Albert Museum, Shakespeare’s Globe.
From the Imperial War Museum it’s only a 15minute walk through Southwark to Shakespeare’s Globe. The original theatre was destroyed by fire during a production of Henry VIII in 1613 and the second Globe was abolished by a Puritan government in 1642. Its third incarnation opened in 1997, a faithful-as-possible rebuilding of the original
decades. Daily backstage tours are available and
theatre that took nearly 30 years to complete.
£10 tickets are available for sold out shows if you
It’s a wonderfully atmospheric place to watch
queue up from 9.30am on the day of performance.
Shakespeare, and standing tickets are only £5, one of London’s best cultural bargains. Follow the river to the West, and you’ll find
Also in the arts complex known as the South Bank is the British Film Institute. Don’t expect to find the latest Hollywood blockbusters
Britain’s National Theatre. The complex houses
here, or even necessarily British movies; the centre
three auditoria; the biggest, the Olivier Theatre, is
specialises in independent films from around the
named after the NT’s first artistic director and one
world and gives filmgoers the chance to rewatch
of the nation’s greatest ever stage actors, Lawrence
classics on the big screen. If you’ve time to kill
Olivier. The building’s notorious Brutalist architecture
before a screening, you can hunt for bargains in the
divides opinions, but few can doubt its pivotal role
used book fair by the river, or order tea and cake in
at the centre of British theatre over the last few
the excellent BFI café.
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From Les Miserables to Chicago and The Lion
Isolde, Carmen and La Traviata. Don’t worry if your
King, the West End of London is the capital of the
German, French and Italian isn’t up to scratch -
world when it comes to musicals. Locally known
English subtitles accompany every performance.
as Theatreland, the area surrounding Leicester
Just about every movement in European art
Square continues to be a huge tourist draw, not
from the thirteenth century to 1900 is represented
least because huge stars such as Matt Damon,
somewhere in the National Gallery’s priceless
Gwyneth Paltrow and Madonna have attempted
collection of paintings. Unlike most other major art
to prove their acting chops on the London stage
museums, the National Gallery’s collection is owned
in recent years. It’s advisable to purchase tickets
not by a private individual, but by the people of the
online in advance because sold-out theatres are
United Kingdom, which means it’s free to visit at
commonplace. But sometimes you can get a great
all times. Highlights include works by Leonardo da
deal on last-minute seats from the Tkts stand in the
Vinci, Titian, Vincent Van Gogh and Claude Monet.
centre of Leicester Square, where cut-price tickets are sold on a first-come, first-served basis. The most magical theatre experience in London,
The adjoining building is the National Portrait Gallery, home to 10,000 portraits of famous and influential Brits. These subjects vary from kings and
however, can be found at the Open Air Theatre,
queens to William Shakespeare, Bob Geldof and
which presents a season of plays, comedy and
Paul McCartney. The BP Portrait Award takes place
live music every summer under the night sky in
every summer, with the shortlisted paintings and
Regent’s Park. Do what streetwise Londoners
photographs available to view in a free exhibition.
do - arrive early with a rug, some cushions and
Both the National Gallery and the National Portrait
a tasty picnic, and keep your fingers and toes
Gallery are open late (until 9pm) on Friday evenings.
crossed for good evening weather. Another glorious
London’s other great art collection can be found
setting for outdoor concerts is Kenwood House,
at Tate Britain which focuses on British art. The
a former stately home on the edge of Hampstead
permanent collection covers 500 years from 1500
Heath, which featured in the film Notting Hill. Every
to the present day, and includes works by artists
summer, a series of weekend concerts is held on
such as William Hogarth, Francis Bacon and
the estate. In 2009, Simply Red, Ray Davies and
Thomas Gainsborough. The gallery organises the
James Morrison performed here.
controversial Turner Prize, an annual award given
For something a little more high-minded, the
to a British artist aged under 50. Recent shortlisted
Royal Opera House is just the job. The first two
entries have included an empty room with a light
opera houses burned down in fires in 1808 and
going on and off, an unmade bed, and a shark
1857 and though large sections of 1858’s third
preserved in formaldehyde.
attempt still remain, most of the building was
The Tate Modern, a museum of international
reconstructed in the 1990s. Operas scheduled
modern art, dazzles visitors before they’ve even
for late 2009 and early 2010 include Tristan und
entered the galleries. The building used to be one
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Left: Kenwood House, Below: The Tate Modern and Millennium Bridge.
of London’s major power stations, and the ground
atrocious. The walls are regularly scrubbed clean,
floor Turbine Hall, which once housed electricity
but the art will usually be replaced by something
generators, is now used for large-scale site-specific
else within days. Look out for works by Banksy -
installations. One recent exhibit featured a giant
art by the notoriously secretive street artist has sold
crack across the floor of the huge hall. While several
for thousands of pounds.
visitors fell in and sustained minor injuries, the
London truly excels when it comes to live music.
crack confirmed the Tate Modern’s commitment to
On any day of the week, hundreds of concerts
strange and thought-provoking art.
take place, spanning every thinkable genre; from
London’s grassroots arts scene buzzes like
rock bands playing to a handful of people in tiny
no other city’s, but you’ll have to leave the major
spaces to superstars such as Bruce Springsteen
galleries behind and head to Shoreditch and Hoxton
performing for thousands of people. There are three
to find it. These neighbouring districts of east
main concert halls at the South Bank Centre,
London are famed for their dozens of tiny galleries
although events also take place in the lobby, the
in which you’ll find the cutting edge of the UK
ballroom, and the space by the River Thames
art scene.
outside. All types of music are represented here,
The White Cube gallery on Hoxton Square is the area’s best-known haunt for challenging and
from jazz to blues, rock to opera, and the acoustics are always crystal clear.
provocative new art, but there’s no need to step
London’s other major concert hall is the
indoors at all. The walls in this area are covered
Barbican Centre, which puts on an equally
head-to-toe in street art; some brilliant, some
eclectic schedule of live music, dance, theatre and
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Clockwise from far left: Piccadilly Circus, Tate Britain, White Cube gallery.
film. The London Symphony Orchestra, one of the world’s most acclaimed orchestras, is based at the Barbican and performs frequently. Immortalised in the Beatles’ song A Day in the Life, the Royal Albert Hall, opened by Queen Victoria in 1871, is the UK’s best loved concert venue. Every year since 1941, the Albert Hall has hosted The Proms, a two-month summer festival
Brazilian flamenco, mime, ballet and circus troupes. At the Institute for Contemporary Arts,
of classical music and enthusiastic flag-waving
there’s something for everyone, all of it stimulating
organised by the BBC. At the end of 2009 the
and challenging. Its cinema screens films you’re
venue would have staged over 100 concerts,
unlikely to find anywhere else, its concert hall puts
celebrating the music of composers such as Henry
the spotlight on little-known music from around the
Purcell, Felix Mendelssohn and Edward Elgar. It also
world, its galleries host group shows of challenging
hosts pop concerts, too. The Rolling Stones, Led
work, and its busy programme of talks and debates
Zeppelin, The Who, and of course, The Beatles,
covers art, culture, philosophy, literature, politics
have all performed in the hall’s lavish domed interior.
and just about everything else.
For something a little different, spend an evening
After a trip to the ICA, you’ll be looking for
at Sadler’s Wells, which specialises in physical
something a bit more light-hearted. At the long-
theatre and dance. When Richard Sadler opened
established Comedy Store in Piccadilly Circus,
an Islington theatre in 1683, this area was still rural
well-known comedians take part in a live version
- the second part of the theatre’s name comes
of TV’s Whose Line Is It Anyway, the improvised
from the medicinal well water found on the site. The
comedy game with plenty of audience participation.
current theatre, the sixth to open on this site, invites
With several personalities from the original TV show
dance groups from all over the world to perform.
and the pick of improvised comedy’s younger
Recent productions have featured Shaolin monks,
generation on board, you’re guaranteed a laugh.
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All roads lead to Trafalgar Square, at the very
were destroyed in a fire. It’s the home of British
heart of London. Despite the city’s vast size, most
government, and visitors are able to attend
of its main attractions are within walking distance
parliamentary debates during the week. No tickets
of here. At the square’s centre is Nelson’s Column,
are required, although there’s usually a big queue
a statue built to pay tribute to Admiral Horatio
in the morning outside the St Stephen’s entrance.
Nelson, who died in the Battle of Trafalgar in
The clock tower at the north end of the Palace
1805. Four bronze lions loyally guard the statue,
of Westminster is universally known as Big Ben,
and four plinths – one of which is used to display
although the nickname actually only refers to the
contemporary art – mark the corners of the square.
great bell inside the clock.
Trafalgar Square has played a huge role in the city’s history, as the place where Londoners
At the large Gothic church next door, Westminster Abbey, almost every British monarch
congregate when they want to celebrate – or
for the past thousand years has been crowned
demonstrate.
and buried. The building isn’t reserved for royalty,
Walk down The Mall until you reach Buckingham Palace, home to every British monarch since Queen Victoria. Every
although you’ll need to do something pretty impressive to join the likes of William Shakespeare, Charles Darwin, Geoffrey Chaucer and Sir Issac
summer, when Queen Elizabeth and
Newton. The 700-year-old building is open to
Prince Phillip holiday in Scotland,
visitors six days a week (on Sunday it’s closed).
the palace’s nineteen State Rooms
Take the short walk to the River Thames and hop
are opened to the public. These
into a capsule in Europe’s biggest Ferris wheel.
lavish rooms are used to entertain
The London Eye was only meant to be a
foreign guests and are regally
temporary structure, but plans to take it down in
appointed with paintings by the likes
2005 were dropped after it had rapidly become
of Rembrandt and Rubens.
the city’s most popular tourist attraction, boasting
The Houses of Parliament were
over three million visitors a year. In the course of its
constructed in the mid-nineteenth
30-minute journey – it moves very slowly – you can
century after the original buildings
look out over this vast city and, on a clear day, see
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Clockwise from far left: Houses Of Parliament, The London Eye, Buckingham Palace.
almost everything. At night, when some of London’s most beautiful buildings are lit up, it’s even more spectacular. The most famous of these structures, St Paul’s, celebrated its 300th anniversary last year. Architect Sir Christopher Wren’s masterpiece is the fourth
For more stories of the ghoulish variety, don’t
cathedral to stand on this Ludgate Hill site; its
miss the London Dungeon. The staff dressed
predecessor was destroyed in the Great Fire of
as vampires on the street outside give you a taste
London. Visitors can climb the 259 steps to the
of what’s to come – a fun-filled, tongue-in-cheek
Whispering Gallery, so called because the unique
romp through London’s scarier side. Using actors,
acoustics allow a whisper to bounce from one side
rides and special effects, the Dungeon gets grisly
of the dome to the other. From here, it’s a punishing
with tales of murder, torture and execution. Expect
530 steps to the Golden Gallery, which boasts awe-
macabre encounters with Sweeney Todd and
inspiring views of the city.
Jack the Ripper.
At the Tower of London there are always
Far friendlier characters await visitors at London
lengthy queues to see the Crown Jewels, worn by
Zoo, the world’s oldest scientific zoo, although you
the Queen every year for the opening of parliament.
wouldn’t want to attract attention to yourself in the
It’s not all glamorous: executions haven’t taken
tiger enclosure. The Zoological Society of London
place at the tower since the Second World War, but
has worked hard to recreate the animals’ natural
confirmation of the site’s bloody past is here for all
habitats so they have plenty of space to roam about
to see, with an assortment of swords and axes in
in. Kids will love getting acquainted with Bobby,
the White Tower, built by William the Conqueror in
Zaire and Effie, the stars of Gorilla Kingdom, while
1078. The guided tours are great fun, especially for
architecture buffs will admire the striking buildings,
kids, who’ll love the gory tales and ghost stories -
from the stylish art-deco penguin pool to the
the site is supposedly haunted by the spirit of
modernist concrete elephant house.
Anne Boleyn, one of two wives of Henry VIII had executed at the tower.
Take a 15-minute stroll from the zoo to Camden Town and you’ll be swept down Chalk Farm Road
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in a restless tide of leather jackets, nose rings, hair extensions and tattoos. London’s artists and
Below: Camden Lock, Below left: Tower of London.
musicians may have flocked en masse to the East End in search of lower rents, but there’s no disputing Camden Town’s status as London’s countercultural hub. The Camden Markets are a treasure trove of antiques, arts and crafts, fresh and wholesome foods, and eye-catching furniture from across the globe. In local boutiques you’ll find an extraordinary range of fashion for purchase – designer suits rub padded shoulders with vintage designs, catwalk classics and urban wear. Two other London markets should not be missed. Portobello Road, open every Saturday, is the world’s largest antiques market. You can find some fantastic deals on jewellery, sculptures,
place to go for delicious fresh-cooked street food.
paintings and furniture. And if you’re feeling peckish,
It’s open from Thursday to Saturday, although at the
make sure you visit Borough Market, the
weekend the queues for lunch get so long you’d be better off flying home and preparing the food yourself. Spread across 350 acres at the heart of London, Hyde Park offers beautiful landscaped gardens, snug cafés, and many perfect spots for a picnic and a read of the newspapers. It’s divided in two by the Serpentine Lake, where swans flutter away from visitors making a splash in rented rowing boats. Located next to the lake, the Serpentine Gallery always has a fascinating art exhibition on, while elsewhere in the park is the Princess of Wales Memorial Fountain, where people pay their respects to Lady Diana. London’s biggest park is Hampstead Heath, and its highest point, Parliament Hill, offers a stunning panorama of London. The view from here is so good it’s protected by law. If you’re feeling brave and fancy a dip, there are separate outdoor swimming pools for men and women here, and facilities for many other sports.
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Stylish.
Discreet.
Contemporary.
51 Buckingham Gate, Taj Suites and Residences is a unique five star townhouse hotel located in the heart of Westminster, offering privacy with ultimate luxury in its wonderfully spacious suites, combining the best of contemporary design and comfort for a short or extended stay. The hotel boasts an award-winning private courtyard, attentive butlers, an indulgent spa, and the Michelin starred Quilon, where head chef Sriram Aylur serves light but authentic Indian coastal cuisine; which makes 51 an ideal haven away from home. For further information or to book: Reservations +44 (0)20 7769 7766 Website www.51-buckinghamgate.com
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