mauritius
101
Your guide to the indian ocean’s tropical paradise
hotels shops sights activities restaurants
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Embraced by the gently swaying sugar cane fields and the warm turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean, The Grand Mauritian, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, invites you to experience the magic of Mauritian hospitality in a truly luxurious setting. This Luxury Collection resort, recognised for its culinary excellence and supreme standards of service, provides an idyllic setting that is unrivalled on the paradise island of Mauritius.
With a design influenced by traditional Mauritian architecture, the resort stretches through tropical gardens and is bordered by a natural coastline, allowing guests a chance to explore at first-hand the island’s natural textures and harmonies.
A Voyage of Experience
More Than Just A Promise
If 'grand' and 'relaxing' are two adjectives that can go hand-in-hand, they would indeed be appropriate in describing Mauritius' latest luxury resort, The Grand Mauritian, A Luxury Collection, Resort & Spa at Turtle Bay, Balaclava.
Sounds too good to be true? Unlike the rhetoric often attributed to holiday destinations, The Grand Mauritian delivers.
If the hotel is stunning, then its location is certainly breathtaking. To the rear of the property are the lush, green sugar cane fields that sway in the sea breeze and cascade down the slopes of the extinct volcanic mountains to embrace the rear of the hotel. To the front of the resort a natural marine reserve, a myriad of subtle tones blues and greens, gently laps against the natural shoreline of the Grand Mauritian. Stroll around the gardens and beach that border the marine nature reserve - one of only two on the island - and you will discover why the resort is indeed a shimmering pearl of the Indian Ocean.
‘Season By Stephane’ Restaurant
Untitled-2 2
With a choice of three international restaurants, three bars, a world class Mandara Spa and fully equipped conference and meeting facilities, The Grand Mauritian delights, enthrals and entertains in the tranquil splendour of the tropical island of Mauritius. With water sports and diving, a luxury private catamaran available on request, and a superb children’s club, there are innumerable memories waiting to be borne. If should your feet wish to stay firmly on the ground, the island is not only welcoming but full of spectacular sites, all within easy access from the hotel. Welcome to The Grand Mauritian A Luxury Collection Resort and Spa, your gateway to new and unforgettable experiences.
Executive Chef Stephane Brallet
Mandara Spa
8/4/2009 6:59:06 PM
Doub
Some Hotel Features and Facts
n
ra Spa
Life is a collection of experiences. Let us be your guide.
The Grand Mauritian A Luxury Collection Resort & Spa
Double Deluxe Family Room
Untitled-2 3
Reflections Restaurant
info.thegrandmauritian@luxurycollection.com thegrandmauritian.com
8/4/2009 6:58:16 PM
Welcome to
Mauritius 101 Mauritius has long been the destination of choice
the British, before Mauritius achieved independence
for travellers seeking a slice of paradise. This
in 1968 and embarked on a more sensible tourism
beautiful dot in the Indian Ocean, comprises of lush
drive that still shows no sign of slowing.
green land, majestic waterfalls, stunning mountains and postcard-perfect turquoise waters. It all kicked off for the island commonly dubbed
To give you the edge over your fellow visitors, we’ve pulled together 101 must-know locations in Mauritius, ranging from the pick of the hotels to
‘magical’ in 975 AD when some enterprising Arab
the top tables to dine at, and the things you simply
sailors discovered the place and named it Dinarobin
have to experience while there. And to make it
- The Silver Island. But having sunned themselves
simple, we’ve divided the 101 recommendations
on the beaches and gorged on the unfortunate
into sections. All you need to do is circle your
Dodo, the Arabs vacated the island and it was a
favourites, book your trip and pack for the holiday
further 500 odd years before its next claimants, the
of a lifetime. What’s more, simply turn to page 24 of
Portuguese, showed up. It was then wrestled into
this guide and you can even win yourself a free stay
the hands of the Dutch, then the French and lastly
on the island. Enjoy.
2
Mauritius 101
Mauritian Icons
0
The number of dodos left on Mauritius. The flightless bird was eaten into extinction.
Robert Surcouf The swashbuckling King of the Corsairs, who used Mauritius as a base for capturing no fewer than 47 ships. His reputation as a tough nut was so great that by the end of his career, British vessels would drop their flags in defeat as soon as they realised they were facing him. Legend has it that he once took on twelve Prussian soldiers in a fight, armed with nothing but a snooker cue and later beat eleven of them in duels, leaving one alive just so he could tell the tale. He evaded capture till his eventual death.
31
The Dodo The island of Mauritius is the birthplace and final resting ground of the Dodo, that flightless, hapless beast-cummetaphor. Distantly related to both pigeons and doves, its Achilles heel was its thick-headed fearlessness in the face of hordes of hungry sailors; despite their apparently unpleasant taste, dodos were munched into extinction in the late 17th century not only by humans but by the rats, cats and boars they brought with them on their ships. The poor dodo.
Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam The island’s first postindependence PM, Ramgoolam was a huge admirer of Gandhi, and used the same tactics of non-violent protest to help ease Mauritius out from British control in 1968. He was educated at UCL and was something of a renaissance man, splitting his time in London between medicine, poetry (he was great friends with TS Eliot) and politics. Once in power he introduced things like universal education, pensions, and electricity.
Annual dates for your diary
November
May
Every November, Mauritius’ crystal clear lagoon, Mahébourg, fills with all types of sailing vessels, including the country’s traditional wooden fishing boats, Pirogues, for the annual regatta: a lively affair that always draws a good crowd.
An event for gourmets to sink their teeth into, Crossroads of Flavours sees the best chefs on the island get together to cook up a storm of delicious food for tourists.
December
August
The island’s colourful celebration of creole culture includes country-wide events ranging from poetry readings to night-long parties. An event guaranteed to put you in the holiday mood.
This wonderful watersport of kite surfing enjoys its own annual festival in Mauritius, filling the sky above the island’s coast with a riot of neon colour
La Regatta
Festival International Kreol
Crossroads of Flavours
Kiteival
2
The number of million dollars Mauritius paid to return a Blue Penny Stamp to its home on the island.
4
The number of individual names that the island was given before being named Mauritius in 1814. The Arabs named it Dinarobin, the Portuguese Swan Island, The Dutch Prins Maurits van Nassaeuiland and the French L’Ile Maurice.
7
The number of colours that form the multi-hued sands known as the Earths of Chamarel, one of the island’s geological wonders.
1,000
The height in metres that the towering Black River Piton – the highest mountain on the island – rises up above sea level. Mauritius 101
3
The Hotels
Mauritius is the archetypal paradise island, a verdant, sunsoaked land ringed by blindingly-white sand beaches and sparkling, warm waters. It’s also dotted with a wealth of superstylish resort hotels, comparable to the best hotels on earth. Mauritius is home to the world-famous Le
Mauritius, where you can sail, windsurf, water-
Touessrok, which has long been a magnet for
ski or dive. But exertions aside, this is arguably
well-heeled sun-seekers. It packs in a plethora of
the most tranquil resort on the island – absolutely
outstanding attractions, everything from a superb
ideal for the romantically inclined. Here you’ll find
championship golf course – Bernard Langer
meandering flagstone pathways amid lush gardens
was the brains behind its design – to a serene
and beautiful rooms, too – we love the thatched-
spa – Givenchy lends its name to this – and an
roofed Luxury Pavilion. An acclaimed spa and the
award-wining line up of restaurants led by Vineet
outstanding Restaurant – at night its terrace is
Bhatia’s magnificent eatery Saffron. But we’re
illuminated by flaming torches and its tables look
particularly fond of the resort’s own private island,
out onto the calm sea – are other notable pulls.
Ilot Mangenie, which you’ll access via the briefest
Another hotel geared up for honeymooners is
of boat rides and where you’ll find nothing but a
Le Meridien Ile Maurice, where the Royal Suite is
sprinkling of secluded sun loungers and frothy
the ultimate abode. We’re talking an immaculately
waves lapping at the shore. Idyllic.
dressed duplex apartment with heart-tugging views
On the northwest coast of the island you’ll find
of the ocean and its own in-house Jacuzzi. Privacy
the equally stunning Grand Mauritian Resort &
at a more wallet-friendly price can also be had in
Spa, which stands close to the city’s entertainment
the ‘Nirvana’ wing of the resort, which has a private
hub, Grand Baie, on a fine stretch of beach that’s
pool and beach and a no-children policy. Not that
lined with hammock-strewn trees. It houses the
this should deter families: the main part of the hotel
largest swimming pool in Mauritius, a superb spa,
is very family friendly and has a dedicated kids’ club
award-winning restaurants (Season is a must-dine)
to boot.
and typically grand rooms: we prescribe a stay in
If you’re looking for somewhere steeped in
the fabulously outsized Grand Mauritian Spa Suite.
Mauritian tradition, head to Sugar Beach Resort.
It’s also a good bet if you have the family in tow as
It enjoyed a major overhaul – to the tune of some
it boasts an excellent kids’ club for tiny tots and all
$22 million – at the end of 2008 and is now one
manner of water-based activities for teens to enjoy.
of the finest five star properties on the island.
You’ll find plenty of aqua-based activities on
Spanning twelve hectares, the resort’s plantation-
offer over at the wonderfully elegant The Oberoi,
style architecture celebrates the island’s heritage,
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Mauritius 101
Le Touessrok, Mauritius Le Touessrok is one of the world’s truly great resorts – the essence of cool, modern elegance, imbued by the cultural warmth of tropical Mauritius. It is set upon a beautiful stretch of white – sand coastline overlooking the tranquil Trou d’Eau Douce bay. Across the water are two exquisite islands, including the spectacular championship golf course by Bernhard Langer. A wonderful array of restaurants and bars have been designed to cater for all tastes, moods and occasions. And in order to indulge in a real rejuvenating cure, the glamourous Givenchy Spa is the ideal refuge. Three private villas, designed for maximum privacy and comfort, offer the highest level of service with a dedicated chef and a team of waiting staff to make sure that all the special wishes of guests are met. For more information contact your local travel agent www.letouessrokresort.com
Mauritius 101
5
This page: The Oberoi, Mauritius
‘You’ll find plenty of aquabased activities on offer over at the wonderfully elegant Oberoi, Mauritius, where you can sail, windsurf,water-ski or dive’. which adds considerable weight to the resort’s
thatched-roof cottages fashioned from volcanic
undoubted charm. But while its architecture is
rock and splendidly decorated.
a nod to the past, its amenities are every bit the
Outstanding accommodation is also the order
epitome of modern splendour. You’ll be particularly
of the day at the plush Four Seasons Resort
impressed by the super-sized spa, which boasts
Mauritius at Anahita, an all-villa resort that also
the island’s only hammam – it’s excellent - and a
lists among its many amenities an Ernie Els-
clutch of sublime spa suites replete with flotation
designed golf course and an over-water spa that
pools and manicured gardens.
arguably trumps all rivals on the island. This is also
Neighbouring Sugar Beach Resort on island’s
a fine venue for gourmets: indulge in excellent Italian
west coast is the ever-popular La Pirogue. Like
fare at the oh-so-romantic open-air Aquapazza,
its neighbour, La Pirogue celebrates Mauritius’
which stands atop a lagoon on the resort’s
heritage – pirogue is the name of the traditional
beautuful private island.
fishing vessel – but this is also a resort with a rich
Another pristine golf course supported by superb
history of its own, having opened over thirty years
dwellings – think chic, African-themed, ocean-
ago. Here, levels of service are exceptional. And
side rooms – awaits visitors to the Heritage Golf
given the fact that a number of staff have worked at
& Spa. We’re fans of the super-spacious villas,
the hotel since it first swung open its doors, there is
which have a specially-decorated children’s room
a warm and welcoming family feel about the place.
in addition to two large bedrooms – all en-suite – a
The rooms are particularly charming; nice-sized
private swimming pool and peaceful gazebo, where
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Mauritius 101
Mauritius 101
7
Right: Le Touessrok Below and below right: Four Seasons Resort Mauritius at Anihita
you can sit and soak up the sounds of the sea. On the south west coast, an area of rich pickings for nature lovers, is the Mövenpick Resort and Spa. It’s a resort defined by the ten acres of tropical gardens it stands in and rooms that are sprinkled around coconut trees and blooming bougainvilleas.
lagoon. Another sand-strewn escape is Veranda
The food doesn’t disappoint either: we enjoyed a
Palmar Beach. But this is also a resort for those
great meal at Le Grand Caze.
seeking aqua adventures, with the full gamut of
When planning your trip to Mauritius you’ll almost
water-based activities on offer – if you don’t hold
certainly come across the name Veranda Resorts.
a PADI, you should definitely take the chance
It operates four hotels across the island under
while here to learn how to dive. Veranda Pointe
the Veranda banner and a further two via affiliated
Aux Biches is a real family favourite – nearly half
brands. As such, its resorts cater for the full range
the rooms are family-sized – with children likely to
of visitors. Honeymooners – or those simply seeking
take an instant shine to the resort’s promotion of
a romantic escape – should head to Veranda
a barefoot policy, while slap bang in the heart of
Paul & Virginie on the island’s north coast for a
the lively Grand Baie you’ll find the colonial-style
wonderful thatched-roof-dotted resort possessing
Veranda Grand Baie: perfect for those who like to
postcard-perfect views across a sun-soaked
explore beyond the confines of their hotel.
Getting Around... When booking your hotel you’ll almost be certainly be asked if you want to be collected from the airport, and though this may be the preferred choice of the majority, others prefer to hire a car so that they’ll be mobile throughout their holiday. This is something we recommend - Mauritius is a relatively small island and you can explore its rich offerings very easily by car. There are ten car hire companies at the airport and Avis, Hertz and Sixt have all got decent fleets. We suggest a cool little drop-top Mini. Just be mindful that though plentiful, petrol stations tend to close at 6pm on the dot across the island. 8
Mauritius 101
Mauritius 101
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The Shopping A holiday’s not a holiday unless you buy a few presents for yourself and the people back home. You’ll find that Mauritius has a wealth of souvenir-stocked stores, where you can pick up everything from local artworks to discount designer garb. Unlike the Middle East, Mauritius isn’t big on glitzy
is K.N.E. Rayinale where you’ll find D&G, (with
malls or cutting-edge designer stores. There are a
a particular emphasis on handbags and wallets),
few Parisian-style boutiques in some of the smarter
Chanel, Versace and Armani. A couple of hundred
hotels, but in the main shopping in Mauritius
metres down the road you’ll find the slightly
is a laidback, bargainous affair involving lots of
lower-key Designer Paradise, which specialises
locally-produced goods. Artisanal specialities
in GF Ferré, Abercrombie & Fitch and upmarket
include diamond jewellery, glassware and incredibly
bikinis. The neighbouring Designer Depot sells
detailed model ships. You’ll also find lots of highly-
a similar range of names, plus miniature sailboats
discounted factory outlet clobber on offer, much of
and, somewhat oddly, bongo drums. Once you’ve
it seasons out of date: it’s well worth a browse as
stocked up on discount clothing you might like to
there are some real gems dotted among the dross.
swing by interiors emporium Piment Rouge, which
Grand Baie’s central drag has a dedicated Shopping Village, where you’ll find a series of fun
does a nice line in stylish lamps, bowls, stenciled pots and pillows.
little stores in which to abuse your credit card.
A medium-sized mall in downtown Port Louis,
There’s River Woods for preppy beach wear,
Caudan is home to lots of homegrown stores and
motto-ridden Ts and light summer jackets - ideal for
a scattering of international names, spread over
slinging over your shoulder in case of a downpour.
a series of boulevards. Hit up Out of Africa for
Then there’s Hemisphere Sud for handmade
dresses, Indya Vogue for brightly-coloured saris,
leather bags, wallets and diaries, and Equateur for
Koki for big, loud shirts for men and Billabong
tasteful tropical shirts (yep, it is possible). Finally,
Girls for outlandish jewellery. If you’re in need
don’t miss out on Montali for stylish womenswear
of beachwear, you’ll find a bunch of good value
and Kavanagh for diamond jewellery set in
offerings from Billabong, O’Neill, Rip Curl and
platinum and gold.
Quicksilver. Then there’s the Mauritius Glass
The factory outlets of Route Royale in Arsenal –
Gallery for ethically-conscious trinkets made from
in the North of the island, not far from Grand Baie –
recycled glass heated and shaped using recycled
sell designer products off at greatly-reduced prices.
cooking oil. There’s also a dedicated Craft Market
There are ten or so stores here, all selling a similar
of some forty stalls, featuring rugs, bags and
mix of stuff. The biggest and best of the bunch
pashminas, plus a surfeit of carved wooden dodos,
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Mauritius 101
Left: Port Louis Below: Adamas
coconut knickknacks and bottles of coloured sand
with a smarter bunch of stores. Work your way
from Chamarel. And don’t leave without checking
around, stopping off for regular refueling sessions
out Tea Route, home to scale models of 17th
at Le Kiosk Café, with its pleasant outdoor terrace
century sailing ships, proper three-masted beauties
- if you’re there for lunch, the gourmet paninis
equipped with rigging, flags and miniature cannons.
are a sound bet. At Delire you’ll find a barrage
Where Le Caudan is slick and westernised, Port
of colourful bikinis and sarongs, at Villebrequin
Louis’ Central Market is unabashedly no-frills
there are racks of upmarket swimshorts and at
and local. Huge piles of spiky fruit, vibrant chilis
Altitude they’ve got cool, original Ts and pretty
and dried vanilla are enthusiastically hawked from
cutaway summer dresses. Visit Passion for delicate
tiny stalls and the air is filled with noisy banter. You
necklaces and rings, featuring diamonds, zirconia
may well be picked up by a salesman from the
and local shells and the small but imaginative
spice shops which line one side of the market,
Xxbelle for Euro-style fashion. You can pick up
and persuaded over to look at their tiffin tins and
some local art from the gallery and buckets of
presentation cases of saffron – expect lots of
cashmere and Abercrombie & Fitch from the
football chat and a free print-out of a curry recipe to
factory outlet. The real standout for souvenirs is
loosen you up, followed by feigned consternation
Manshree, where you’ll find gorgeous light Indian
and teeth-sucking from the owner when you start
dresses, kaftans, pashminas, elaborately-decorated
to haggle.
pillow cases, rich swathes of silk, bolts of velvet,
Le Ruisseau is a lovely, low-rise complex of 60 boutiques, more chilled out than Caudan and
wood carvings and outsized solitaire kits with speckled marbles.
Diamond Geezers... Buy jewellery in Mauritius and you won’t be charged VAT – just bring your passport and air ticket with you to prove you’re a tourist, or else collect the VAT back at the airport. The biggest jeweller is Adamas – visit them in Floreal (686 5246) and Grand Baie (269 1609). They cut and set the diamonds themselves, which helps keep the prices highly attractive. Mauritius 101
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The Sights
Once you’ve settled into your resort you’ll want to inspect the best attractions - both natural and manmade - and museums Mauritius has to offer. Helpfully, the island’s size means it’s possible to see its sights in a single visit. Once you’re done with your shopping you’ll want
and yellow cerulean damsels, the ruffle-wearing
to check out the island’s sights. And while there are
devil firefish, Jurassic era yellowmouth moray,
few architectural wonders to marvel at in Mauritius
luminous palette surgeonfish and vicious-looking
there is still plenty to see. Alongside places of
ribbon morays. By the time you get to the Picasso
amazing natural beauty, there are a set of museums
triggerfish, a wonderful multicoloured beast with
and exhibitions which showcase the island’s
eyes halfway down its back, you’ll have fallen
history and heritage. Head to Black River Gorges
in love with the Indian Ocean and its glamorous
national park in the south west of the island, and
inhabitants. Weave your way past the tank of
you can check out the geological wonder that is the
frenetic silver moonys and you’ll hit the pièce de
Earths of Chamarel. The volcanic rock in the area
resistance – a supersized tank housed in its own
has been eroded and weathered over the millenia,
hut where green sea turtles, white tip reef sharks
producing an amazing array of multicoloured
and understandably nervous-looking mermaid eels
sands – as you stroll along you’ll see seven colours
shimmy about to a backing of aquatic mood music.
including yellow, blue and green, which create
Over in Port Louis, on Rue du Vieux Conseil,
an appealing, alien landscape. Just nearby is the
you’ll find the kooky Musée de la Photographie.
imposing Chamarel waterfall, an 83-metre beauty
It’s crammed with ancient cameras (of the old
where you can take some fantastic snaps.
school, ‘head under a blanket, hand holding up a
The Aquarium, on Coastal Road, Pointe Aux
flash’ style), plus thousands of photographs (and
Piments, claims to offer visitors a unique experience
even some daguerrotypes) of Mauritius. The island,
‘without the fear of being eaten’. It’s only one
it seems, has always been in love with photography:
of many advantages of a trip to this low tech
one of the first people to buy a camera when they
attraction, a key stop-off on any tour of the north.
went on sale in 1839 was a Mauritian, Fedinand
There are no bells or whistles here – it’s all about
Wöhrnitz. The glimpse into the development of the
the fish, housed in simple tanks, adorned only with
island and the life of its inhabitants is fascinating.
earnest missives about their genus and habits.
For a chilled afternoon of strolling in the sunshine,
But what fish! To a soundtrack of crashing waves
hit the Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanical
(slightly superfluous given that the beach is directly
Garden, better known as Pamplemousses
opposite) you’ll check out the humbug-esque blue
Garden. It’s a 37-acre plot in Pamplemousses, in
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Mauritius 101
Below: Pamplemousses Garden Below right: Chamarel waterfall
to mention the decommissioned heavy machinery and steam engines which dot the grounds outside. The gift shop is good fun too – pick up some natty sugar t-shirts, homemade lollies and no fewer than twelve types of sugar, from the lightest demerera to thick, dark muscovado brun. The Blue Penny Stamp Museum, next to Le Caudan Waterfront in Port Louis, gives you a good overview of the country’s social, artistic and stampy history, with lots of old maps, paintings – check out the drawings of Port Louis when it was little more than a pair of sheds – and etchings of the island through the ages. The centrepiece exhibits
the north of the country, and features rolling hills,
are the one and two penny stamps, the first issued
tranquil lakes, and an onslaught of tropical plants.
in Mauritius, bought back for the nation at a cost
You can take an organised tour (guides wait in a
of two million dollars. There’s a nice little museum
special hut by the entrance and call out as you pass
shop, too, for all your mug and postcard needs.
by), or simply make your way around on your own,
Down on the south coast at Rivière des Anguilles
checking out the 80 different species of palm trees,
you’ll find La Vanille Reserve des Mascareignes,
the pond filled with tyre-sized water lilies and the
a captivating nature sanctuary filled with exotic
aromatic spice plantations. There is also a small
animals. First stop is the insectarium, where you’ll
enclosure filled with ultra-cute deer and a score of
find 23,000 species of butterfly and creepy-crawly
giant turtles – although in contrast to places like La
– some live, some mounted. Next up are the
Vanille Reserve you can’t go and pet any of them.
water-filled network of pools containing 2,000 Nile
History buffs keen to learn about the island life
crocodiles: you can pick up and play with baby
of yesteryear should try L’Aventure du Sucre.
crocs and, if you visit on a Wednesday, you can
Normally the prospect of visiting an attraction
watch them tucking into their weekly helping of
entitled ‘The Adventure of Sugar’ would have you
chicken. The whole site is a joy to walk around,
making a legitimate dash for the hills. Overcome
filled as it is with monkeys, deer, geckoes and a
this natural impulse if you can, because this place,
whole army of tropical plants.
located at Beau Plan near Pamplemousses offers a great introduction to the history of Mauritius. Sure, there’s a fair amount of technical information, plus some slightly tenuous connections – Nostradamus is pressed into the service of sugar promotion at one point –and feeble games – a ‘spot the sugar’ cartoon for kids marks a particular lowpoint. But in the main, it’s a well thought-out museum which takes you through the whole rambunctious history of the island, with its corsairs, epidemics, rats, refinieries, slaving and sugar booms. Anyone who likes ancient engineering will love the big main room filled with tugboats and distilling contraptions, not
Mauritius 101
13
The Restaurants Brace your tastebuds: you’re going to love the food in Mauritius. As with the rest of the island’s culture, it’s a winning mix of French, Indian, Chinese and Creole – a heady fusion of haute cuisine, spice and blistering tropical flavours. Part of Mauritius’ gastronomic appeal is the intense
There are plenty of places to enjoy dinner by the
taste of the ingredients used, particularly the
beach. At La Goélette, in the Beachcomber Royal
seafood – you’ll not find fresher octopus, prawns or
Palm Hotel, you’ll find a Eurocentric menu tinged
langoustines anywhere in the world. Once you’ve
with exotic spices and a head chef whose pedigree
tried a local pineapple, you’ll never look at an air-
includes manning the kitchens at La Tour D’Argent,
freighted, plastic-encased supermarket number in
Paris’ most prestigious restaurant. You can’t go far
the same way again. Chances are you’ll be on half
wrong with your choices – make sure to include
or full board at your hotel, so you may not want
the exquisite marinaded lamb with green gnocchi
to eat out a huge amount. When you do, though,
on your order. Don’t leave without getting properly
you’ll find a host of wonderful independent and
stuck in to the cheeseboard, knocking back
hotel restaurants – read for our pick of the best.
wedges of fine fromage with slabs of black olive
While you can always get a table at an independent
and onion bread and lashings of fruity olive oil.
place, hotel restaurants can be a little trickier,
Another unfathomably lovely spot that has
and you’ll need to phone in advance to make a
everything you want for soaking up an Indian
reservation and get your name on the security
Ocean sunset is The Restaurant, at The Oberoi,
gate. If you’re staying at a sister hotel (i.e. one in
Mauritius. Head to your table on the edge of a
the same chain) you’ll have no problem getting in,
palm-thatched, open-sided restaurant lit by flaming
but if you’re not they may not have space as they
torches dotted about the grounds. The service is
prioritise inhouse guests. Still, if you book a few
among the best on the island and the menu offers
days in advance you should be fine. If you’re in the
a delightful spread of local and European food. The
towns or on the beach, you’ll have the opportunity
stillness of the evening is broken only by murmured
to try some Mauritian street food. By and large
chat from neighbouring tables and croaking frogs in
this is good and very cheap but you should always
the middle distance.
make sure to take your cue from the locals and only
Over at Le Barrachois in the Constance
go for stalls and vendors which have drawn a line
Prince Maurice Hotel you’ll find a restaurant with
of customers – the quieter vendors are less popular
a difference. This place is fabulous – reached by
for a reason and their nibbles may leave you with an
means of an elongated boardwalk, it sits out in the
upset stomach.
Belle Mare bay, floating on a series of pontoons.
14
Mauritius 101
Clockwise from left:Le Château Restaurant, Le Barrachois, The Restaurant, Spoon des îles
You’ll enjoy the slight rocking of your table and the easy access to the starry night sky, but better than all this is the teeming Mauritian sealife that swishes around the bottom of the restaurant, lured by the bright spotlights that pick them out. Shoals of fish chase each other, jump up for bits of your
Le Saint Geran is the tropical outpost of Alain
delicious bread, and generally lark about much to
Ducasse’s culinary empire (and the first of his ever-
the amusement of the diners. The food is light, tasty
growing brigade of international restaurants), Spoon
French with a smattering of Creole and the seafood
is a beautiful spot decked out by design guru
is wonderful.
Philippe Starck. Unlike Ducasse’s more traditional
Another place for sensational offerings plucked
bistrots in Paris, Spoon has a modern, international
from the ocean is Tides Restaurant at Sugar
menu, featuring intriguing cooking methods and
Beach. Here the finest catches of the day are
a wide-ranging set of influences, including local
presented on decorative slabs of ice, giving you
Creole. This is a spot for serious foodies: perfect if
the opportunity to select your own platter from a
you’re looking for some international genius from
stunning selection of oysters, shellfish and mussels.
France’s favourite chef.
We heartily recommend the super fresh sashimi.
A sophisticated spice experience orchestrated
Global gourmet heavyweights are also on the
by Vineet Bhatia, the creator of London’s acclaimed
menu in Mauritius. Spoon des îles at One&Only
Zaika, Safran at Le Touessrok is a romantic, softly-
Mauritius 101
15
Left: La Goélette Below: Safran
‘The mix of Mauritian ingredients and Indian cooking methods used at Vineet Bhatia’s Safran results in dreamy dishes like palm heart koftas and tiger prawn masala, shot through with seams of exotic flavour. Delicious’ lit restaurant built around a central tandoori oven and a show kitchen. Outsized picture windows give
particularly if the chef’s on form. If you’re determined to remain health-conscious
you a view out over the Indian Ocean while you eat,
on your holiday, you can always opt for the
and unintrusive music and slick service complete
innovative dishes on offer at Seven Colours
the package. The mix of Mauritian ingredients and
Energy Cuisine, which you’ll find housed in
Indian cooking methods results in dreamy dishes
Heritage Golf & Spa. Here, chefs infuse dishes with
like palm heart koftas and tiger prawn masala, shot
edible essential oils, floral waters and hydrolats
through with seams of exotic flavour. Delicious.
to produce truly unique flavours. You’ll also get to
For something incredibly romantic and more than a touch special, head to Le Château Restaurant at Domaine de Bel Ombre. It’s housed in a 19th
sample a huge selection of the finest local-grown fruit and vegetables. Here’s a swift factoid for philately fans: the
century mansion surrounded by ancient gardens,
Mauritian Blue Penny stamp is one of the most rare
a mountain and a golf course. You can book up
and valuable in the world. It was the first British
for high tea or lunch, but it’s loveliest at dinner:
Empire stamp to be produced outside of Britain
enjoy a note-perfect French meal in the main dining
and is made yet more valuable by the fact that
room, decked out with antique wood-paneled
it was produced with a printing error – they put
walls, and then head out to the veranda to check
the words ‘post office’ rather than ‘post paid’ on
out the stars. It’s the ideal spot for suitors to pop
it – which apparently makes thousands of pounds
the question – none but the steeliest of hearts
of difference to collectors, who go misty-eyed at
could refuse a post-dinner proposal made here,
the very thought of it. Equally exquisite – although
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Mauritius 101
significantly easier to gain access to – is the Blue
hot), is a real winner. The local curries and lobster
Penny Café, at Constance Belle Mare Plage Hotel.
dishes (surprisingly cheap considering the size
It’s a restaurant that sticks up for local Creole food,
of the portions) aren’t half bad either. Meanwhile,
presenting it gourmet-style in glorious, regularly
for delicate, toothsome homemade gnocchi and
updated degustation menus which zip you through
pastas try Zucca (Ruisseau Creole, Black River,
the best the cuisine has to offer before depositing
483 7003), a sleek, attractive trattoria run by
you on the other side, sated, smiling and in need
bustling, charismatic Italian restaurateur Paola.
of a delicious stogie from their cigar cabinet. The
Moving further afield, if you’re into your Central
waterfalls which surround the restaurant, filling it
American treats, you should make sure to order the
with the sounds of falling water, are definitely a nice
sabana at the Iguana Lounge (Royal Road, Grand
touch, too.
Baie, 263 5758), a cheap and cheerful Mexican
Looking for a good value bite outside of the hotel
restaurant with a homey atmosphere. Sabana is
restaurants? We’ve scoured the island to find the
Mexican-style sliced beef with rice and melted
best signature dishes on offer: make sure not to
cheese: fantastic stuff.
miss out on these gourmet highlights. Let’s start
Mauritian food is all about just-landed fish, and
things off with something spicy. We’re big fans of
you really can’t beat the freshly-prepared catch
the delicious and wonderfully-named angry duck at
of the day at La Langouste Grisée (Main Road,
Thai Foon (Topize, Royal Road, Grand Baie, 269
Pointe aux Canonniers, 263 1035), a charming
1110), a tender, spicy delight that’s perfect for a
restaurant with a focus on top Indian Ocean
tasty lunch after a morning’s spree over on Sunset
seafood. If you’re down in Flic en Flac on the west
Boulevard. Then for lovers of Indian food there’s
coast, there’s the excellent sweet and sour fish at
the subtly-spiced murg makham wala at Salaam
Domaine Anna (Medine, Flic en Flac, 453 9650),
Bombay (Royal Road, Moka, 433 1003), a saucy
a waterside Chinese restaurant that’s good for
chicken dish best served with a side order punnet
families.
of cheesey, spinachy palak paneer. If you like a bit
Equally adorable is the simple but delicious
of a show with your lunch, you should definitely
crabmeat and apple salad at Auberg’inn (Main
make the effort to head over for the teppanyaki
Road, Poste Lafayette, 410 5354), a lovely little
at Sakura (Royal Road, Grand Baie, 263 8092),
place near the beach, which also does a very good
prepared with flamboyant abandon by the chef,
line in pizzas, pastas and grilled fish. Last but not
who whips diced veg and strips of tender chicken,
least, we strongly urge you not to miss out on the
beef (or, for an extra charge, lobster, calamari
delicate risotto and tuna tartare at Le Pescatore
and prawns) about on a hot plate, creating a host
(Route Côtiere, Trou-Aux-Biches 265 6337), where
of zingily fresh dishes. For a taste of the island,
you can eat outdoors on the terrace, looking out
the authentic Creole rougaille at Cooleen (Royal
over the pretty beach. Their grilled fish is another
Road, Grand Baie, 263 8569), served with rice
good option. - it’s always plucked fresh from the
and relishes (warning, some of them are extremely
ocean, so tastes divine.
Tropical Tastes... The traditional food in Mauritius can be utterly brilliant but a little baffling. Where to begin? We advise starting out with a helping of cari cerfs – that’s deer curry, don’t you know. It’s an intenselyflavoured stew of venison and lilva beans, with lots of tomatoes, bay leaves and an undercurrent of coriander. Heavenly, if done well. You should also try rougaille. It’s the Mauritian national dish and comes in many forms, the best of which is the saltfish version, a top concoction of fish, tomatoes and herbs, served with lots of pickles and dal.
Mauritius 101
17
The Activities
This island is abuzz with activities – head out and enjoy its beautiful waters, wander up its gorgeous mountains, meet some of its highly exotic animal inhabitants and make sure to leave time for a round or two of golf on its pristine courses. The raft of activities offered to tourists in Mauritius
equipment is provided) and a barbecue lunch is
tend to fall under the management of White Sand
prepared and served by the crew on board.
Tours – you’ll probably find one of their reps in your
A trip out in a glass-bottomed boat is rather
hotel – and they’re your best bet for heading out to
like snorkelling without the work and without getting
sea, offering a couple of great catamaran cruises.
wet. You just cosy up in the boat and stare in
The first is Eastern Sailing Magic, a full day’s jaunt
slack-jawed wonder at the parade of tropical fish
along the east coast including a stop-off to check
and kaleidoscopic coral that whizzes by beneath
out Ile aux Cerfs and the Grand River waterfalls.
your feet as you bounce along the waves. The only
The second is Northern Islands Sailing, another
downside is that the glass makes it tough to take
full day’s outing, including stops at Les Palisades
good photos. Your hotel may well lay on glass-
and the sheltered parts of Flat Island and Gunner’s
bottomed experiences for guests: if not, you can
Coin Island. Both cruises include opportunities for
arrange a trip through Fragawills (453 8897) in Flic
swimming and snorkelling (flippers and masks are
en Flac.
provided), drinks, transportation to and from your
But if you’d rather swim with the fishes, there’s
hotel, and an onboard barbecue lunch prepared
some fabulous snorkelling all over Mauritius,
and served by the crew. For a super-romantic
starting just a few yards from the beach. Anywhere
evening cruise, consider a trip down the Black River
it’s unsafe to take the plunge will have an obvious
aboard the spacious catamaran O’Plezir. You can
Dangerous Bathing sign – everywhere else is prime
watch the breathtaking sunset while gliding past the
snorkelling territory. Expect to see exquisitely-
awe-inspiring Rempart Mountain and Black River
coloured corals, angel fish, lionfish, clownfish,
Range. Drinks, snacks and canapés are served on
bonefish and surgeonfish among dozens of
board during the 90 minute cruise.
others. Snorkelling off the beach at Flic en Flac is
You can also hop aboard O’Plezir for a visit to
particularly brilliant. You’ll find that the majority of
the home of a pod of dolphins in Tamarin Bay.
the big hotels have snorkelling excursions by boat
The dolphins are a delight, although sadly you
to reefs further out at sea: if yours doesn’t, you can
can’t swim with them as they leg it as soon as you
organise a trip through Tropical Dream Tours in Flic
get in the water. There is also the opportunity for
en Flac (453 8480) who will take you by speedboat
some spectacular snorkelling during the day (all
to the Aquarium site on the west coast.
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Mauritius 101
Clockwise from left: The O’Plezir catamran, helmet diving, the incredible sealife
‘If you’ve got your PADI you can dive in at some of the terrific sites off the island, where you’ll see a whole new world of wondrous sea creatures, including sharks, stingrays and strikingly coloured fish’ Helmet diving is a brilliantly bonkers way of
White Sand Tours’ underwater scooter rides.
seeing the sea. A big, round, see-through helmet
Charge around the watery depths for 30 minutes,
is placed over your head and some law of physics
at 9-10 feet below the surface on a scooter with
traps the air inside so that you can breathe normally
a transparent dome covering your head and
even when walking along the ocean floor 20 feet
shoulders. The scooters seat two so you can also
under the surface. If you’re scared of diving or
talk to your partner as you zoom about.
snorkelling, this is a great way to overcome your
If you’ve got your PADI you’re all set to dive in at
fear – the divers accompanying you are excellent
some of the terrific sites off the island, where you’ll
and walk you through the process. Once at the
see a whole new world of wondrous sea creatures,
bottom you wander around, marvel at the fish,
including sharks, stingrays and strikingly coloured
feed them with some bread and have your photo
fish. If your hotel doesn’t organise trips, try Sea
taken. You can set up a helmet dive through White
Urchin Diving Center (913 0208) in Flic en Flac, who
Sand Tours at Trou aux Biches on the north coast.
can take you to around 30 dive sites on the west
If that all sounds like a bit too much effort, you can
coast. Each dive lasts around 30-35 minutes and
arrange a similar viewing of the ocean floor with
their prices are very reasonable. You can also take
Mauritius 101
19
Left: Marlin fishing Below: The coloured sands at Chamarel
‘If catching fish is more your thing, Mauritius is home to the Annual Marlin World Cup International Competition and is considered one of the best locations for marlin fishing in the world. Other sealife to snag include tuna, wahoo and sharks’ your beginner’s PADI certificate with them, which will take you from swimming pool to ocean and includes four dives. If catching fish is more your thing, Mauritius is
is open for tours. A different sort of swim – one involving super-fast slides – can be had at Le Waterpark (415 2626). Located near the Constance Belle Mare Plage
home to the Annual Marlin World Cup International
Resort on the east coast of the island, it’s a small
Competition and is considered one of the best
but fun affair – a couple of swimming pools, a gently
locations for marlin fishing in the world. Other
winding lazy river, a pirate ship to clamber about
sealife that can be snagged includes tuna, wahoo,
on and a bunch of giant slides: try the 80-metre
sailfish and sharks. White Sands Tours offers half-
‘multilane’, which four people can slip down at the
day fishing excursions on the west coast.
same time and the Black Hole – a whizz down a
Most sightseeing tours will include a trip to the waterfalls at Chamarel or Tamarin. But the very
darkened tunnel on a rubber raft. Back on dry land, horseriding can be organised
best one for swimming in is at Eureka (433 8477)
at various places around the island but the pick of
in Moka in the centre of the island. Here you’ll find
the bunch is Domaine de L’Etoile (433 1010/729
four smallish waterfalls in a ravine that you can
1050) on the east coast. You saddle up and head
visit with a guide before jumping in for a swim. An
out with a guide on Boerperd ponies for between
extra bonus is the magnificent neighbouring Creole
90 minutes and two hours, taking in the lush
colonial house and garden (now a museum) which
scenery as you trot along. There are both morning
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Mauritius 101
and afternoon sessions and children between 7 and
The best quad biking on Mauritius is at
12 years old can join in as long as they have some
Domaine de l’Etoile (433 1010/729 1050) on the
previous riding experience. The rides can get quite
island’s east coast, where you zip about among
dirty so you’re advised to bring a change of clothes
an extraordinary array of flora and fauna, including
and a towel so you can take a post-trek shower on
ebony, banana and cinnamon trees, Java deer, wild
site.
boars and monkeys. There are two trips every day
Head to Domaine de l’Etoile (433 1010) and you
– morning and afternoon – and each lasts between
can make your way down one of three archery
two and three hours followed or preceded by lunch.
trails where you’ll be confronted by a series of
Make sure to bring a change of clothes (as things
3D animal models. The longest trail takes around
can get quite mucky), sunblock and a camera to
three hours and sees you loosing off arrows at 20
capture the beautiful scenery.
fake beasts, while the shortest trail, with just five
There are a couple of ways to enjoy a bird’s eye
targets, takes only 45 minutes. Children under
view of Mauritius. Helicopter tours of the island
seven are not allowed and those over seven must
are available for 15, 30, 45 or 60 minutes. The Air
be accompanied by an adult. Rates include your
Mauritius choppers seat up to four. Tours can be
bow and arrows, assistance from a coach and
taken from a series of helipads around the island
lunch. You can shoot arrows at targets elsewhere in
so there’s no need to travel to the airport to catch
Mauritius but it’s nowhere near as much fun as this.
your ride. It takes an hour to see the whole island,
Over at Casela Nature Park (452 0693, on
but even with just 15 minutes you can expect to
the west coast near Cascavelle) you can embark
see mountains, jungle and picturesque swathes of
on a 4x4 tour which whips you through the park
coastline. But if you posses an even bigger head
and then on through the Yemen Nature Reserve.
for heights, make a beeline for the factory site of
Along the way you’ll see zebras, deer, African
Saint Felix sugar estate in the south of the island
antelopes, wild pigs and billions of birds. This
for an adrenaline-fueled two-kilometre trip along
safari-style trip takes two hours in a ten-seater
eleven swift ‘zip-lines’ – cables which you clip
vehicle. Casela Nature Park is the proud owner of
yourself onto and slide down – at heights of around
a clutch of lion and cheetah cubs. You can stand
30 metres. The route takes you over the Rivière des
on a viewing platform and watch them at play, walk
Galets with stunning views of sugar cane fields,
in their enclosure with a guide and touch them, or
banana plantations, verdant forest and waterfalls.
go for an hour’s walk around the reservation with
Halfway along there is a rest stop where you can
two or three lion cubs. Kids who want to walk in the
take a cooling swim before recommencing your
enclosure or round the reservation with the cubs
treetop adventure. The tours finish with a lovely
must be a minimum of 1.5 metres tall for the lions
Mauritian lunch, and both can be booked through
and 1.2 metres for the cheetahs.
White Sand Tours.
Spa Trek... There are some superb spas in Mauritius where you can get scrubbed down, kneaded up and pampered silly. One of island’s finest is undoubtedly The Oberoi Spa, at The Oberoi, Mauritius. It lists a swimming pool, steam baths and a beauty parlour among its top-notch amenities, but our favourite element is the magnificent private spa suites, complete with their own plunge pools. Elsewhere, The Seven Colours Spa at Heritage Golf & Spa Resort houses no fewer than 20 treatment rooms, offering a smart concept based on the seven chakras and the seven-coloured earth at neighbouring Chamarel. Over at Le Touessrok you’ll find the quite beautiful Givenchy Spa, which almost relaxes you on sight alone.
Mauritius 101
21
Left: Tamarina Golf Estate Below: Paradis Golf Club
‘Mauritius takes its golfing extremely seriously - the island is dotted with courses – a frankly farcical number, considering the size of the population – and if you’re into your game you’ve got to try some of them out as they’ll blow you away’ Mauritius takes its golfing extremely seriously -
ruggedly beautiful course. Our favourite hole? The
the island is dotted with courses (a frankly farcical
beautiful par four 6th, which plays down a narrow
number, considering the size of the population),
valley surrounded by jungle on one side and rocky
and if you’re into your game you’ve got to try some
scrub on the other with a magnetic stream crossing
of them out as they’ll blow you away. You’ll always
the hole just in front of the green.
have to call in advance to book, and be warned
Le Touessrok Golf Course (Ile aux Cerfs
that if you’re calling from outside the hotel which
402 7400) was designed by two-time US Masters
hosts the course then you won’t necessarily get a
champion and Ryder Cup captain Bernhard Langer,
booking on the day you want as they give priority to
and is a breathtakingly beautiful but fiendishly
inhouse guests.
difficult course that everyone should play at least
A Peter Matkovich-designed course, Golf du
once. Those who have strode its fairways include
Château (Bel Ombre 623 5600) rises up from sea
Nelson Mandela. This is the only course on the
level into the foothills of the Black River Gorges
island that can’t be reached by road, meaning
nature reserve, giving players awesome views of the
that you have to take a helicopter or a ten minute
Indian Ocean from many holes, while several holes
boat ride over to the delightful Ile aux Cerfs. Holes
play by the Château de Bel Ombre, a magnificent
11-13, consisting of a par five, par four and par
colonial building. Other eye candy includes a welter
three, all play right beside the white sandy beach
of brightly-coloured flora and fauna which lines the
and turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean. They
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Mauritius 101
Below: Golf du Chateau: Right and belolw right: Le Touessrok golf course
are tough - but not too tough - and by far the most beautiful holes on the course. Tamarina Golf Estate and Beach Club (401 3000) is home to the first independent course on Mauritius. Set in the shadows of Mount Rempart, its fairways are framed by seas of natural grasses including purple pampas, lemongrass, red grass,
beauty centre and a Big Easy grill. Paradis Golf Club, Le Morne, is the oldest 18-
citronelle and vetiver. Tamarina is very welcoming
hole championship course on the island and lies in
to visitors and a real joy to play. The great views
the shadow of the magnificent Le Morne mountain,
of Mount Rempart from virtually every hole and
a World Heritage site. Though it can be the easiest
the troop of monkeys that lurk around the club’s
course on Mauritius, when the wind blows it can be
signature 13th hole make every round a pleasure.
a beast. We love the par four 12th and 13th holes
The Four Seasons Golf Club at Anahita (202 2250) was designed by the ‘Big Easy’ himself, Ernie Els. Though the course is still relatively new, it’s
which play parallel to each other down one side of the lagoon. Links Course, Belle Mare Plage Resort
not far from being Mauritius’ best, so play it if you
(402 2999) is beautiful, with some really wonderful
possibly can.
holes played around outcrops of volcanic rock. All
Its best points? Six oceanside holes, four
buggies are fitted with the latest GPS systems and
different terrain elements (tropical ocean, forest,
the locker room facilities are truly luxurious. The top
Scottish links and mountain), large fairways and the
holes? The par four 13th and par three 14th, which
fact that it’s the only USGA course on the island.
both require long carries over water to reach the
Plus it has a bunch of other facilities including an
greens, are absolutely great. The dog-leg par four
air-conditioned gym, a Mauritian style clubhouse, a
18th is also a fantastic finishing hole.
Mauritius 101
23
WIN
Competition Win! A luxury break at the ultimate island resort, The Oberoi, Mauritius Finished planning your trip to paradise? Then take
chance to enjoy the holiday of a lifetime. To be in
time to answer just one simple question and you
the draw, just email the answer to the following
could snag yourself a complimentary three night
question to easywin@hotmediapublishing.com
stay for two people (including breakfast) at the
by September 15th, 2009.
stunning Oberoi, Mauritius. One of the world’s great resorts, the Oberoi, Mauritius is the epitome
How many luxury villas with private pools does
of style, with luxury pavilions and private villas – 16
The Oberoi, Mauritius have?
of the villas have private pools, while the pavilions, where you’ll stay, open onto beautiful gardens
Note: The prize validity is from 15th September 2009
just a stone’s throw from the beach – and a spa
to 31st July 2010, excluding 20th December 2009
that’s been voted the best in the world by a team
to 10th January 2010. All bookings are subject to
of industry professionals. It is, quite simply, your
room availability.
24
Mauritius 101
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La Pirogue, Mauritius Fringed by a superb white-sand beach graced by the most glorious sunsets, La Pirogue revisited remains true to its traditional values of authentic Mauritian hospitality, romance and tranquility. More than ever La Pirogue reasserts its vocation as a resort dedicated to the sea and to its pleasures, shared with a loved one, family or friends. For further information, please contact your local travel agent.
www.lapirogue.com
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Sugar Beach, Mauritius An elegant blend of plantation lifestyle with a contemporary buzz provides the new 5-star Sugar Beach with a panoply of innovative sensations. Combining a variety of activities to suit all tastes, be it diving in the pristine blue of the lagoon, sandcastle competitions for the little ones, complete relaxation at the Spa hammam or just indulging in the sensual tastes and flavours of one of several ‘World Cuisine’ restaurants, the Sugar Beach has something for everyone. For further information, please contact your local travel agent. www.sugarbeachresort.com