Kanoo World Traveller Oct 2009 by Hot Media

THE MIDDLE EAST’S BIGGEST TRAVEL MAGAZINE

OCTOBER 2009

WHEEL DEALS WHERE TO STAY FOR ABU DHABI GRAND PRIX

Course you would THE WORLD’S BEST GOLF HOLES

BEIRUT AND BEYOND

AN AUTUMN HOLIDAY IN LEBANON

TOTAL GUIDE

North Africa From Marrakech to Sharm El Sheikh: the perfect mix of kasbahs, boutique riads, souks and sightseeing…

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Insider guides

The lowdown on Sydney

Weekend breaks in Istanbul

The country life in Pembrokeshire

A FIVE STAY SATAR AL MAHT DESER A R ESO6RTT KWT

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OCTOBER 2009 KANOO WORLD TRAVELLER

CONTENTS 5 8 13 14 20

AGENDA Your essential crop of bulletins from the front line of travel EASY WIN Enter our competition for a chance to stay at Al Maha DOING THE BUSINESS New gadgets, new suits, new ideas ESSENTIAL SELECTION Picking out the planet’s ﬁnest golf holes PICTURE THIS Glorious travel shots from around the globe

64 SUITE DREAMS A suite in the heart of Rome, with is own rooftop Jacuzzi.

Cape Kidnappers golf course

55 CONCIERGE

60 PEMBROKESHIRE

Sleepy countryside and chic towns: how to plan a perfect break in the county.

Thought Maastricht was only good for treaties? Think again...

58 ISTANBUL

The key contacts you need to stay, eat and shop

48 BEIRUT

A trip to experience the delights of the Lebanese capital.

25 NORTH AFRICA

Our pick of the best of everything in Tunisia, Morocco, Libya and Egypt

10 DRIVETIME l W Hotel Istanbu Produced by: Hot Media Publishing FZ LLC June 2008 22,485 BPA Consumer Audit Managing Director: Victoria Hazell-Thatcher Editorial Director: Rob Orchard Publishing Director: John Thatcher Advertisement Director: Chris Capstick Contributing Editor: Ele Cooper Designer: Jenni Dennis

Take a cruise across South Africa’s prettiest countryside, along The Garden Route.

Advertising enquiries chris@hotmediapublishing.com +971 4 369 0917 Editorial enquiries editorial@hotmediapublishing.com +971 4 364 2876 Cover: Photolibrary Additional images from Getty, iStockphoto and Design Hotels

12 HIP TO BE THERE

Formula One comes to Abu Dhabi - check out the entertainment on offer.

56 SYDNEY

Ready for a fun holiday down under? Flip to our insider’s guide for the full lowdown.

Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from Hot Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. Hot Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in Kanoo World Traveller magazine. ‘North Africa’, ‘Sydney’, ‘Pembrokeshire’, and ‘Istanbul’ features reprinted with kind permission of Sunday Times Travel.

AGENDA NEWS

09 KNOW IT ALL 10 DRIVE TIME 13 DOING THE BUSINESS 14 ESSENTIAL SELECTION 20 PICTURE THIS

AGENDA

WHAT’S IN

WHAT’S NEW

WHAT’S ON

OPEN BAHR

This month sees the launch of a smart new hotel for the UAE capital – the Fairmont Bab Al Bahr. The new Abu Dhabi hotel has its own stretch of sandy beach, beautiful pools and, as of early next year, a Willow Stream spa. It’s also well supplied with top restaurants, including a branch of Frankie’s, the Italian restaurant from super jockey Franki Dettori and celeb chef Marco Pierre White, who will also have a steakhouse at the hotel. We’re also intrigued by the idea of The Chocolate Gallery, a confectionery shop crewed by experience chocolatiers. fairmont.com KWT

GREEN DREAM

BUY THE BOOK Just released at the tail end of last month, Kevin McCloud’s Grand Tour of Europe is an elegant trip through the great cities and ancient structures of Europe, following the path traced out by 19th century travellers taking the Grand Tour. Amusingly written and illustrated with gorgeous images, it’ll make you want to bunk off work for six months and amble your way across the Continent.

TREADING LIGHTLY Next time you’re making for the south coast of the UK, get yourself booked in to new hostspot The Scarlet in Cornwall. It’s a small but beautiful eco-hotel, with crashingly ﬁne views out over the sea, a boutique spa and a Michelin-starred chef in the kitchen. They also have a very strong eco programme – they harvest rainwater, have a natural swimming pool whose ﬁltration is provided by reeds and they employ solar panels and a ventilation heat exchange. A top low-impact choice. scarlethotel.co.uk

ARIA BEING SERVED?

Calling all music buffs: opera just got democratised. You no longer have to leverage personal relationships to snag expensive tickets for exclusive performances months in advance – just head to Vienna and until the year end you can catch a free series of performances of works by Mozart and Verdi by the Vienna State Opera, which will be shown on huge screens outside the Vienna opera house. Our top recommendations include The Marriage of Figaro on October 25 and 29 and Nabucco on October 10.

RIGHT DOWN TO THE SWIRE

There’s a new hotel launch in Hong Kong this month from Swire Hotels, who are opening the doors at The Upper House (upperhouse.com). It’s a gorgeous hotel, where rooms all have panormac views out over the harbour and are kitted out with espresso machines, iPod docks and big bathrooms with rain showers. There’s a 49th ﬂoor café, the ‘Café Gray Deluxe’, which is reached by a sky bridge which spans an immense atrium, and is being run by Chef Gray Kunz, fresh from grand gourmet adventures in New York. To celebrate the opening of Upper House, Swire are offering a two nights for the price of one promotion for the ﬁrst three months: now there’s an excuse to book a trip to HK if ever we heard one…

Mozart’s ﬁnest works: now available for free. Well, for the price of a ticket to Vienna, anyway...

CROSSING THE POND

Next time you’re making the journey from London to New York, you can take advantage of BA’s new all-business flight from London to New York – the first trans-atlantic flight available from London City Airport to JFK. The A318s used are fitted with 32 flat-bed Club World seats in a 2-2 setup and passengers are free to send emails from their laptops and text with their phones (no voice calls though) throughout the flight. There will be two return flights every day except for Saturdays.

TRAVEL BY NUMBERS

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The cost in Euros of a night at the recently-launched Ostel (ostel.eu) in Berlin, which is decked out in East European communist style in the best ‘Ostalgie’ traditions (Ostalgie being nostalgia for the old DDR). The prices match the super basic but super authentic ﬁttings. Take the experience to the next level by hiring out the Ostel’s Trabi or Barkas car or authentic DDR bikes…

AGENDA NEWS

MOUNTAIN-TOP RETREATS

Get light-headed with these high-altitude escapes

IN THE ALPS…

Les Fermes de Marie, Megeve, France (www. fermesdemarie.com) For a supremely luxurious take on rusticity, head to the French Alps. This 71-room hostelry is made up of old farmhouses from around the country which were taken apart and then rebuilt into what stands today. It also boasts an award-winning spa and, should you get snowed in, you can while away the hours in the library.

IN A CASTLE…

Fairmont Banff Springs, Canada (www.fairmont. com) This is the BFG of mountain hideaways, with a whopping 768 rooms. Built back in 1888, the hotel was designed to look like a Scottish baronial castle – so if grandeur’s your thing, this is the spot for you. It’s perched above the Bow River’s intersection with the Canadian Rockies, earning it bonus pretty points.

AT A GOLF RESORT… The Lodge at Cordillera, Colorado, USA (www. cordilleralordge.com) The Lodge at Cordillera is a relaxed, elegant place to stay that’s deﬁnitely not for children. The golf course’s setting is incredibly attractive, with unobscured views of the Vail Valley and Sawatch Range for miles around – and the vistas from the two top-notch restaurants are equally magniﬁcent: it’s a real treat of a place.

IN THE DESERT…

Grand Dragon, Ladakh, India (www. thegranddragonladakh. com) Those seeking a cultural experience should head for this eco-friendly desert spot, which is nestled between the Himalayas and the Karakorum mountains. Take advantage of the lung-clearing 3,400-metre altitude by trekking around (or rafting through) the nearby Zansker River.

IN THE HIGHLANDS…

Inverlochy Castle, Scotland (www. inverlochycastle.com) You can almost hear the bagpipes wail at the sight of this hotel in the foothills of Ben Nevis. Back in 1873 when it was still a private residence, Queen Victoria declared that she ‘never saw a lovelier or more romantic spot’. Hunting, ﬁshing and clay pigeon shooting are just three of the pastimes available.

ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

SET YOUR SIGHTS ON DUBAI Looking for a great-value room in Dubai? Check out the Ibis Al Barsha, which has an excellent location along Sheikh Zayed Road, just minutes away from Media City, Internet City, Jebel Ali and the Mall of the Emirates. It offers travellers on a budget the perfect base for exploring the city, as well as top value rates across the year. The modern rooms are highly comfortable and equipped with WiFi and ﬂat screen TVs. When it comes to relaxation, you’ll love the live Latin music at the ‘Casa Latina’ bar and the international restaurant, ‘Baharat’. With prices starting from just AED 279*, they’re your ﬁrst stop for an economy stay in the City of Gold… For reservations, please call + 971 4 399 6699 www.ibishotel.com *Conditions apply

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AGENDA NEWS

EASY WIN

Need to get away from it all? Enter for your chance to win a luxury break at Al Maha Desert Resort & Spa.

Recreating a Bedouin encampment spread across the vast dunes, Al Maha (emirateshotelsresorts.com) is the dream retreat for those seeking the utmost in privacy and luxury while surrounded by the most exquisite wildlife the desert has to offer. Set between Dubai and Al Ain, this secluded resort is surrounded by some of the region’s most spectacular landscape, rich with protected wildlife and ﬁlled with experiences of traditional Bedouin pastimes. Al Maha offers 42 individual suites, each with its own private, temperature-controlled swimming pool. From your private deck, or out on horseback or in a 4x4, you can observe desert wildlife including Arabian Oryxes in their natural habitat. We’ve teamed up with Al Maha to offer one lucky reader a night for two at this award-winning resort on a full board basis. During their stay, guests can choose two activities per day including guided safaris and walks, falconry,

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archery, horse riding, camel trekking and off-site historical and archaeological tours, also included in the prize. For a chance to win, simply email the answer to the following question to easywin@hotmediapublishing.com by October 31st, 2009

Which animal can you ﬁnd in Al Maha? a) Arabian Oryx b) Badger c) Sheep

AGENDA KNOW IT ALL

THE PANEL INTERNATIONAL RESTAURANTS CORRADO BOGNI Corrado is the head concierge of the ﬂagship InterContinental London Park Lane. He and his network of fellow concierges round the globe can answer dining questions on any city under the sun.

View over Great Rift valley

KNOW IT ALL

ASK THE EXPERTS

Our team of travel geniuses help plan your perfect break... Got a question? contact them at knowitall@hotmediapublishing.com My husband and I are travelling to Kenya next year. We would like to do something away from the tourist trail and my husband is interested in Maasai culture - any suggestions? TIM WOODS If it’s a glimpse into everyday life in rural Kenya you are seeking, then head for the Great Rift Valley. Traditional life continues at its leisurely pace here, and visitors always receive a warm welcome. And the scenery is quite simply breathtaking – a chance to experience one of the world’s natural wonders at close quarters.

From Nguruman you can trek into the nearby Loita Hills, which overlook the world-famous Masai Mara A good place to base yourself is the village of Nguruman. From here, you can trek into the nearby Loita Hills, which overlook the world-famous Masai Mara. It’s possible to do one day trips, or longer treks that involve an overnight stay in the hills. Stay at the Entasopia Falls Guest House in Nguruman (00 254 729 002 264) – a hidden jewel of comfort in a region that is relatively untouched by tourism compared to much of Kenya. Mama Salaon, the welcoming host, will provide you with delicious local food and comfortable rooms – much needed after you have been camping in the wild. She can also arrange a trekking guide from the local Maasai population - essential both for ﬁnding your way

and gaining permission to walk on the plateau. Don’t consider heading out alone - wild animals will prowl right up to your tent at night! Being right off the beaten track, Nguruman is tricky to reach – there is no public transport, so you will need to arrange private transport from Nairobi or the town of Magadi. But that’s all part of the adventure. I have always loved the idea of making a journey, rather than a destination, the main feature of my holiday. I quite fancy the idea of doing this on a train and have got it into my head that it should be somewhere in Asia, rather than anything hackneyed like the Orient Express. What are the options? You’re in luck: luxury train journeys through far-ﬂung lands are becoming increasingly popular. The pick of the bunch has got to be the Shangri-La Express (www. railsnw.com), a high-altitude trip through some of the world’s least explored areas. Opt for the Tibet/China route, much of which has only been open for the past three years, and from palaces to tribes, you will be privy to cultural sights rarely witnessed by anyone else. Setting off from Beijing, you’ll pass through Hong Kong, Lhasa, Moscow and Shanghai, before concluding your travels in Ulaan Baatar. The train’s comfortable carriages are all equipped with showers and plush armchairs from which you can survey the spectacular scenery as you journey deeper into the Far East.

GLOBAL SHOPPING LOUISA COX Louisa is the founder of Shopping Mistress (www. shoppingmistress.com), a unique shopping service aimed at those with the money but not the time to hit the stores. She has expert knowledge of what to buy and where to buy it. BOUTIQUE HOTELS JAMES LOHAN James is one half of Mr and Mrs Smith, the duo who launched the hugely popular guidebook series of the same name (www.mrandmrssmith. com). He devotes his time to discovering the world’s most exciting boutique hotels. VOLUNTOURISM DANIELA PAPI Is the founder of PEPY (Protect Earth, Protect Yourself) in Cambodia, a non-proﬁt organisation which organises tours and voluntourist activities in Cambodia - see pepytours.com for more info. . ADVENTURE AND ECO TRAVEL TIM WOODS Tim is the founder of Car Free Walks (www.carfreewalks.org), leads conservation holidays for the BTCV (www.btcv.org/ international) and is an editor for id21, communicating the latest research on ecotourism and responsible travel in Africa and Asia.

AGENDA DRIVE TIME

DRIVE TIME

2-3 DAYS

THE GARDEN ROUTE, SOUTH AFRICA

There’s no ﬁner drive in South Africa than the Garden Route on the N2. On its coastal stretches the scenery comprises glorious beaches to one side and an unfolding bower of forests, mountains, lakes and valleys to the other. It’s only around 200 kilometres long, so you can zip along it swiftly, but the smarter plan is to take your time and stop off regularly en route. Kick your trip off in Stilbaai and drive through George, Wildnerness and Knysna, through Plettenberg Bay and out to the Tstisikamma Forest. And make sure to pull over along the way to go hiking, diving, boating, swimming and sightseeing – George is a particularly lovely stop-off and a trip to the Cango Caves near Oudsthoorn is essential too. Our ﬁnal tip is to take your trip between November and April to get the best of the weather…

Aerial view of Knysna

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ADVERTISEMENT FEATURE

PLAY, PUTT, EXPLORE! There’s more to Malaysia than great golf. Get set for the adventure of a lifetime... Once you’ve chipped and putted your way round your pick of Malaysia’s two hundred-plus pristine golf courses, how about exploring the rest of its great outdoors? The country offers more al fresco leisure pursuits than you can swing a club at, so whether you’re an adrenalin-junkie on the hunt for a thrill or a nature lover in search of majestic marine life, you’ll ﬁnd it in Malyasia. Here you can mountain bike through incredible jungle, raft through daring whitewater rapids, dive in crystal clear waters and trek through tropical rainforests. Or explore remote caves, kayak through rivers lined with wildlife and catch some of the biggest ﬁsh on earth. In fact, in the time it’s taken you to read this you could even have base-jumped to the ground from the top of the iconic KL Tower. So what are you waiting for? See www.tourism.gov.my for more details and to start planning your perfect trip

Beaches, snorkelling, mountain climbing. utter relaxation, nature trails... it’s all on offer in Malaysia.

AGENDA HIP TO BE THERE

ONE TO WATCH

STAY AT...

The Yas Hotel (02 501 7086/www.theyashotel. com), a space-age, curved structure which straddles the race course on Yas Island, half on land, half on water. Unsurprisingly, it’s pretty breathtaking by day, but by night it’s absolutely spectacular, with LED lighting making it look like it’s been subjected to a very stylish alien invasion. With views of the track and direct access to the pit lanes, you simply could not be better placed to get involved with the racing action.

EAT AT...

HIP TO BE THERE

FORMULA 1 ETIHAD AIRWAYS ABU DHABI GRAND PRIX In November, the world’s most happening city is right on your doorstep Regardless of whether you care about fast cars or not, Formula One’s Abu Dhabi debut is exciting stuff. Petrolheads will be spinning at the news that the event, running from October 29 to November 1, will comprise a series of firsts: the first time a Formula One Grand Prix has ever finished in the dark; the first professional race to take place on the newly built Yas Island; and, luckily for people travelling to the event from elsewhere, the first time a hotel – The Yas – has actually straddled an F1 race track. If this doesn’t get your blood pumping, the entertainment should. The line-up is simply fantastic, rather appropriate as that is the meaning of the word ‘Yasalam’, the name of the entertainment programme. Beyoncé, Kings of Leon, Jamiroquai and Aerosmith are the official after-race heavyweights, but if you’d rather not 12

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shell out for the $409 two-day ticket price necessary to gain entry, free event Beats on the Beach is the answer. It’s running from October 27-31, when the

If the racing doesn’t get your blood pumping, the entertainment should. The line-up is simply fantastic, rather appropriate as that is the meaning of the word ‘Yasalam’, the name of the entertainment programme. Abu Dhabi Corniche will be awash with international acts including hip hop super star Timbaland, chilledout dance act Soul II Soul, and reggae group The Wailers (watch from the deck of your yacht or just roll up to the beach and battle it out for a spot near the front). Combine all that with a colourful mix of Brazilian dance parades, photography exhibitions and movie nights and you’ve ofﬁcially got the most happening city on the planet. www.yasmarinacircuit.com; www.yasalam.ae; www.theyashotel.com

Anar (02 690 9000/www. emiratespalace.com), which dishes up sumptuous Persian dishes ripe with aromatic spices and punchy ﬂavours. The restaurant is located in the city’s most famous hotel, Emirates Palace, where you can sit beneath the mosaic-clad ceiling or outside on the terrace, which overlooks the bay. The lamb and pomegranate broth starter is particularly noteworthy, and for mains make a beeline for the shahname kebab, a black peppercoated beef tenderloin.

SHOP AT... The two main shopping centres in Abu Dhabi are Marina Mall and Abu Dhabi Mall. The former is situated near Emirates Palace on the Corniche and houses over 160 stores. Abu Dhabi Mall is close to the Beach Rotana Hotel and Towers, with stores like Kenneth Cole and Tommy Hilﬁger providing the designer ﬂavour.

AGENDA DOING THE BUSINESS

THIS JUST IN

DOING THE BUSINESS

Face time

Make sure you’re ready for your big business trips this month, with our essential guide to the latest and greatest bits of corporate kit...

SUITS YOU

In an attempt to boost ticket sales, UK airlines British Airways and FlyBe have launched campaigns with the message that face-to-face meetings are far more likely to yield positive results than video-conferencing or phone calls. Environmentally questionable, yes, but according to research by the Harvard Business Review, they’ve got a point: 89 per cent of the people they surveyed said that meeting in person was essential to seal a deal – a statistic not to be taken lightly, we’re sure you’ll agree. The study also found that for every $1 spent on business travel by US companies, around $12.50 revenue was generated as a result.

SEASON’S MEETINGS: WE’VE TRAWLED THROUGH THE VERY FINEST NEW LAUNCHES OF THE AUTUMN / WINTER 2009 SEASON TO FIND OUR PICK OF THE BUSINESSWEAR. THE COMPETITION WAS TOUGH BUT IN THE END WE CAME DOWN IN FAVOUR OF PAUL SMITH, WITH ITS FANTASTIC FORMAL SUITS, LEISURE WEAR AND EVENING DRESS: ALL OF THESE ARE KEY PIECES FOR YOUR TRAVEL BAG…

Tissue issue

Bad news for polite businessfolk: you are being advised not to shake hands for fear of aiding the spread of swine flu. The Association of Corporate Travel Executives (ACTE) has issued the warning following doubts over the likelihood of people following previous recommendations that, should you find yourself sneezing without a tissue, you should cover your nose with your cuff or sleeve rather than your hand. The Times quotes ACTE executive director Susan Gurley as saying, ‘I find it highly unlikely that executives will risk soiling their business suits while on their way to an important meeting – this slight ...change could go a long way to reducing the financial impact of a potential pandemic.’ We say keep the handshakes, remember the tissues!

EEN SCR AM DRE

BEL OF THE BALL

TALL TALE

Perfect for travellers prone to losing their phone in their hand luggage, the LG Chocolate BL40 is the tallest mobile we’ve seen since the original bricks of the ’90s, although thankfully the technology has moved on somewhat since then – and so has the style. The fourinch touchscreen forms the gateway to a ﬁve-megapixel camera, full-screen web browsing and enough games to make journeys ﬂy by. Available from mid-October, Dhs2,999.

Those seeking ﬁve-star luxury with a four-star price tag will be excited to hear of the opening of the Gold Swiss-Belhotel (www.swiss-belhotel.com) in Dubai. With 184 bedrooms and a Bur Dubai location useful for those seeking proximity to the airport, the lowrise hotel also has three outlets – Senses, an allday dining venue; Kebab Connection, an informal speciality restaurant, and a lounge. The naturally lit meeting room comes complete with glass whiteboard and high-speed wiﬁ, seats 30 in a boardroom style and can be divided into two for smaller gatherings by the dedicated in-house events team.

SUTERA HARBOUR , MALAYSIA Hole 9 Make for the ‘Lake Course’ at Sutera Harbour for some lovely holes by the waterside. Hole 9 requires some canny club choices - you’ve got a split fairway to deal with plus a right side pin and a whole squadron of bunkers. Especially beautiful when played at sunset, as the light dips down over the South China Sea. One of Malaysia’s ﬁnest. Par: 4 (suteraharbour.com)

Scorecard

COURSE D L U O W U O Y

Race to Dubai , In the run-up to the ith picks the Charles Starmer-Sm best places in the

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world to tee off…

AGENDA ESSENTIAL SELECTION

Canouan, The Grenadines

Jack Nicklaus was so enamoured by this clever links course that he named his home course after it

PEVERO, ITALY Hole 16

TPC SAWGRASS, FLORIDA Hole 17

It was the Aga Khan who brought golf to the exclusive Costa Smeralda in 1972. Set along its rugged coastline, this Robert Trent Jones course offers sweeping views towards Corsica, but the underbrush, lakes, bunkers and stiff breezes provide a severe test. The short 16th offers classic ‘risk and reward’ with water left and right. Par 4. Green fee: $230 (golfclubpevero.net).

Often picked as professional players’ favourite course. Golﬁng architects applaud this hole as it requires shot-making perfection as you contend with the lack of elevation, tricky breezes and a vicious pot bunker. Par 3.

AILSA COURSE, SCOTLAND Hole 9

LEGEND GOLF RESORT, SOUTH AFRICA Hole 19

SUNNINGDALE (OLD), ENGLAND Hole 10

Golf writer Henry Longhurst once remarked: “You ﬁnd yourself lingering on the tee, gazing down on the waves as they break on the rocks and reﬂecting how good it is to be alive.” But you have to earn the view. From a windswept outcrop, with a lighthouse reminding you of the dangers ahead, you must drive across 200 yards of rock-strewn waters to reach the fairway. Par 4. Green fee: $200 (turnberry.co.uk)

Each hole of this course in Limpopo Province has been designed by a different golﬁng legend, but the drama of the “extreme 19th” eclipses them all. Set high on Hanglip Mountain and accessible only by helicopter, it is the world’s longest par three. After taking in the panoramic views of the Entabeni Conservancy you send your drives down 900 yards to an Africa-shaped green. Par 3.

Lined with pine, birch, oak and heather, this magniﬁcent inland course lies just 25 miles from London. There are no poor holes but your drive from the elevated position on the 10th will be one you remember for a long time. Par 4. Green fee: $220 (sunningdale-golfclub.co.uk).

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Green Monkey, Barbados

GREEN MONKEY, BARBADOS Hole 16

ROYAL COUNTY DOWN, N.IRELAND Hole 9

VALDERRAMA, SPAIN Hole 4

Designed by Tom Fazio, Sandy Lane’s newest course zigzags across a plateau before plunging into a quarry. The 16th starts from an elevated tee and drops to a green 225 yards away, protected by a giant bunker where your only escape is a monkey-shaped island. Par 3.

Often regarded as the world’s most beautiful course, it hugs the coastline of Newcastle. With the Mountains of Mourne looming large in the distance and the Irish Sea washing into Dundrum Bay to the left, the ninth requires a precise drive on to a gorse-lined fairway. Bunkers then swallow any miscued approach. Par 4. Green fee: $130 (royalcountydown.org).

Host to the 1997 Ryder Cup, this is the ﬁnest inland course in Europe. Nestled in the foothills of San Roque, the course winds through a forest of cork trees and is characterised by small greens, tight dog-legs and two different prevailing winds. The signature hole is “La Cascada” - a tough hole that culminates in the tiniest of greens, protected by a small lake. Par 5. $520 (valderrama.com).

BALLYBUNION, IRELAND Hole 11

DOMAINE DE SPERONE, CORSICA Hole 16

Tom Watson singled out the 11th hole of this wonderful coastal links as one of the toughest in golf. Perched high on the cliffs, it ﬂanks a stunning horseshoe bay - anything right will be swallowed by the pounding Atlantic, anything left will disappear into a lunar landscape of brown and purple dunes. Par 4. Green fee: $330 (ballybuniongolfclub.ie).

Located on the southern point of the island, near Bonifacio, this course designed by Robert Trent Jones is part parkland, part links. My pick is the 16th - one of the great par ﬁves which has a daring drive across the cliffs. Par 5. Green fee: $100 (sperone.com).

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Scorecard

AGENDA ESSENTIAL SELECTION

DOONBEG, IREL AND Hole 1 The rolling hills and windswept headlands of so uth-west Ireland can rival Scotland as the links capital of th e world. Doonbeg, desig ned by Greg Norm an, is barely six years old - but with fai rways following the natural cont ours of the terrain, you feel it has been ther e for centuries. The ďŹ rst tee has already been touted as th e best opening ho le on the Emerald Isle. Pa r 4.

Doonbeg KWT 17

Scorecard

D RS, NEW ZEALAN CAPE KIDNAPPE Hole 15

Bay, station in Hawke’s 5,000-acre sheep Built on a former along Fairways play out asts ocean views. every hole here bo e t of the Paciﬁc. Th ridges that rise ou a series of jagged rrow arrowing down a na Plank is my pick 650-yard Pirate’s end e it is bound for the approach feels lik promontory, your . pekidnappers.com) Green fee: $230 (ca of the earth. Par 5.

18Cape KWTKidnappers

AGENDA ESSENTIAL SELECTION

Pebble Beach

PEBBLE BEACH, US Hole 7

ROYAL MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA Hole 6

Jack Nicklaus said that if he had only one more round to play in his life, he would play it here. The course hugs the Paciﬁc coast and features narrow fairways, sloping greens and panoramic views. Every golfer dreams of lofting a sand wedge towards Monterey Bay on the diminutive, but danger-strewn, seventh. Par 3. The Lodge at Pebble Beach (pebblebeach.com) offers packages.

Some 20 minutes from the bohemian charms of Melbourne lies the ﬁnest course in the southern hemisphere. Its strategic bunkers and slick greens challenge even the best. The sharp dogleg sixth is a good example - even if you manage to avoid the bunkers your second needs to be pitch perfect to stay on the tilted, glassy surface. Par 4. Green fee: $364 (royalmelbourne.com.au).

CANOUAN, THE GRENADINES Hole 13

BANFF SPRINGS, CANADA Hole 4

LEOPARD CREEK, SOUTH AFRICA Hole 4

Unlike most championship venues, this East Lothian course is also designed with amateurs in mind. Jack Nicklaus was so enamoured by this clever links course that he named his home course after it and picked the nervejangling, contoured ﬁrst as the toughest opening hole in golf. Par 4. Green Fee: $350 (muirﬁeld.org.uk).

The course winds along Bow River under the snow-capped peak of Sulphur Mountain. The elevated tee box on the fourth requires a hit over the glacial pond to a small bowl green with a steep bank beforehand. With a name like Devil’s Cauldron, you needn’t say more. Par 3. Green fee: $160 (banffspringsgolfclub.com).

Being a bit wild off the tee takes on a new meaning at this course, as some of the water hazards are moving ones. The fourth sits 100ft above the edge of Crocodile River and is a popular resting point for elephants and errant drives. Par 5.

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PICTURE THIS

YUNNAN, CHINA

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IMAGE: PHOTOLIBRARY

The Yuanyang rice terraces ﬁll the remote Yunnan Province’s valleys, carved from the rock of the mountains and used for over 1,300 years. These fertile steppes are located between one and two kilometres above sea level, and produce vast crops for the Hani farmers who tend them. They are hauntingly imposing and attractive – a real discovery for the dedicated traveller.

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PICTURE THIS

The eerie beauty of Mono Lake in California is best seen at twilight: it’s an ancient body of water, threatened by the voracious thirst of the state’s residents, and providing some of the most striking scenery on the West Coast. The surrounding area is beautiful, too – there are the alpine vistas of the Eastern Sierra, the skiing resort of June Mountain and the glorious acres of wildﬂower-ﬁlled meadows. A gem of an area. 6

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IMAGE: ISTOCK

MONO LAKE TWILIGHT, UNITED STATES

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NORTH AFRICA

TOTAL GUIDE

North Africa

Camels, kasbahs and cool cuisine. It’s so far – yet so close PAGE 26 SAND ROVER Marrakech too manic? There’s a desert dream waiting PAGE 30 SOUKS YOU, SIR Five mini citybreaks, tailored for your pleasure(s) PAGE 36 STARRY, STARRY NIGHTS The best beds for your buck (from less than $40)

PAGE 42 PILLAR TALK The ruins are remarkable and the welcome is truly wonderful. Whoever said that Libya was just for adventurers? PAGE 46 INSPIRATION NATIONS Love one spot already and in need of extra ideas? Look no further: we’ve got the recommendations you need

North Africa feature reproduced with permission from the Sunday Times Travel

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Sand Rover Heat. Hustlers. Haggling. When the madness of Marrakech gets the better of you, says Laura Goulden, there’s a peaceful desert haven – less than an hour away

’m dressed in suede gaiters and a jaunty riding hat, and the scenery’s straight out of a Western, yet something tells me I wouldn’t give John Wayne any sleepless nights. For starters, the grey pony I’m straddling has recently given birth. ‘She’s very relaxed,’ says my guide, Ali, by way of reassurance. So it seems – she’s much more interested in nibbling cactus leaves than exploring. To add insult to injury, Ali ties our horses together, so that I’m following him on a lead. At least I can concentrate on the magnificent views of Morocco’s Agafay desert – there’s nothing but rippling dunes in shades from rust-red to buttermilk, stretching to the snow-capped Atlas Mountains in the distance. The sky is electric blue and it’s so quiet, it’s as if someone’s pressed the mute button. Ali navigates the dunes until finally we come to an abandoned village, roofless and crumbling almost seamlessly into the sand. ‘Eleven people used to live there,’ Ali tells me as we near the dry walls. ‘They moved to the Sahara because it was too difficult to grow anything here.’ The landscape we’re lost in certainly looks harsh: the kind you’d expect to spend weeks on a camel to get to. Yet I’m only 40 minutes’ drive from the madness of the souks of Marrakech. This swathe of wilderness is so close to the city, I’ve been able to indulge my shopping fetish and play Florence of Arabia in one easy long weekend. If few people come here, it’s because La Pause, the discreet desert camp that’s looking after me, doesn’t shout its unique appeal. It’s squirrelled away in its own minioasis, among horizons of bone-dry dunes.

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When I say camp, I don’t mean some throwyour-tent-up-and-hope number. La Pause sleeps 30 guests very cosily indeed. Owner Frederic Alaime stumbled on the clump of palms and greenery ﬁve years ago, during a ride through the desert. While most people would have passed it by, Alaime saw that the site had the makings of a very special little luxury camp, tailor-made for refugees from big-city mayhem. Big-city mayhem is all part of a trip to Marrakech, of course. The place is an unforgettable sensory assault – sometimes

There’s nothing around but rippling dunes in shades from rust-red to buttermilk, stretching all the way to the snow-capped Atlas Mountains in the distance. fabulous, sometimes foul. Pink archways and golden cones of spices line seemingly endless bamboo-covered alleyways, and even the fishmongers’ stalls are goodlooking – all ornate iron facades with fish heads displayed on mounds of coriander and mint (although the ‘aromas’ can sometimes require smelling salts). My sole mission was to find a soft leather handbag with a studded strap, like the one I’d seen on the slim, tanned shoulder of a dead ringer for Sienna Miller at the hotel that morning, but the leather section of the souk was proving tricky to track down. The manic market was like the interchange between Tiny villages sit against the stark beauty of the Atlas Mountains

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A trickling river feeds the spindly olive trees that encircle a jumble of chocolate-brown tents and a pool. The scene only lacks a lone Berber tribesman in billowing robes. London’s Piccadilly and Jubilee tube lines at 5pm on a Friday, only with mopeds and donkeys rather than harried commuters. I found no handbag, just a pretty copper lantern, which I doggedly bargained down to half the initial asking price. I was feeling pretty proud of myself until I saw its twin five minutes later, with a price tag approximately half the amount I’d finally coughed up. Still, at least that was my grandmother’s birthday present sorted for another year. I left for La Pause early the following morning with my lamp – and a headache. My driver, Moustafa, and his 4WD negotiated the busy road out of town, leaving the window down in order to give dozy drivers of crammed cabs an earful. I settled in for a nap, but in what seemed like no time at all, Moustafa was turning off the road, his expression softening into a smile. The Agafay desert is a beauty: a sparse, rippling wilderness, strung with the occasional procession of wandering goatherds. In spring, flowers and barley sprout from the sand, but for the rest of the year the dunes are breadcrumb-like and stark. A barely visible track leads to La Pause, which is set beside a pocket-sized village of mud huts, with a pre-fab school and a couple of rusty goalposts in the gravel. A trickling river feeds the palms and spindly olive trees that encircle a jumble of chocolate-brown tents and a pool. The scene only lacks a lone Berber tribesman in billowing robes. There’s a slobbery welcome from Chito and Jingi, the resident dogs, who act as if 28

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I’m their master just back from a day’s work. ‘They won’t leave you alone,’ says Moustafa. ‘They love Europeans.’ Although the only power here comes from a couple of solar panels, there’s no roughing it: the tents share showers but have soft, linen-clad beds, and the huts boast deep-pile rugs, huge candlesticks and ornate African carvings. As night falls, dinner is served: a mouth-watering lamb and prune tagine – the best version of comfort food I’ve tasted. Then, before bedding down with a dog at each elbow, I step outside to gaze at the starry mass of lanterns; in the silence, the campfire crackles like gunshots. Early next morning, after pancakes and strawberries, I climb up onto my pony and follow Ali into the stony surrounds of La Pause. The only sign of life in two hours is a spiral of smoke over a distant dune – tagine pots being fired, Ali tells me. But it’s Moustafa who saves the best for last, later that day. Leaving other guests at La Pause lazing in the hammocks that are strung between the olive trees, I wander along curling dirt paths, followed faithfully of course by Chito and Jingi, to a steep ridge above a bouldery riverbed. A slight breeze ruffles my hair (in summer, temperatures here can be a merciful 10˚C cooler than Marrakech) as I take in a rolling, red lunar landscape, with no trace of human life as far as the eye can see. ‘Most people just come for lunch and to ride the horses,’ Moustafa tells me. ‘But what about dinner, the pool and the shooting stars?’ I ask incredulously. Moustafa smiles and shrugs. ‘They’re back at their riads in Marrakech in time for dinner.’ They are missing out. That evening, I scramble to the top of the hill behind the camp to watch the molten desert sunset. Shortly afterwards the moon appears and, right on cue, the village dogs erupt into mournful howls. But they’ve long gone to sleep by the time I’m ready for bed, so tormented by that elusive Sienna Miller bag that it’s going to take a soothing herbal tea to get me to sleep.

Clockwise: dried ﬂowers in Marrakech Souk; a bargain awaits if you perfect your haggling skills; surveying Djemaa El-fna Square; shoes come in all the colours of the rainbow

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Four other places to find serenity in Marrakech BELDI COUNTRY CLUB Leave the market and in just 20 minutes you could be eating lunch on a sun-dappled terrace with a view of the Atlas Mountains. Hidden away in rose-scented gardens, Beldi Country Club boasts a pool framed by a rosemary hedgerow. A hotel is due to open this year, too (beldicountryclub.com; three-course lunch from $44). THE HAMMAM AT LE PALAIS RHOUL The hammam at Le Palais Rhoul hotel is among the city’s most luxurious. You’ll lie on a hot floor and have buckets of steaming water thrown over you before you’re plied into all kinds of positions. Finally, you jump into an icy-cold pool. It might sound hellish, but it feels incredible. The spa is open to non-guests by appointment only, but Boutique Souk (boutiquesouk.com) can arrange a day there, including lunch and use of the pool, from $180pp. EL BADI PALACE In the 16th century, El Badi Palace was a grand pile consisting of hundreds of rooms coated in marble and gold. On the edge of the medina, the melancholy sandy ruins are a popular tourist stop, but there’s rarely a voice louder than a whisper – perhaps to avoid disturbing the storks nesting high above on the walls. Don’t miss the carved pulpit, put here for safe-keeping after it was removed from Koutoubia Mosque. MAJORELLE GARDENS French artist Jacques Majorelle dreamt up this jungly oasis in the 1920s. Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé purchased it in 1980, and Saint Laurent’s ashes were scattered here. The pristine gardens are just five minutes’ walk from the souk – you’ll find palm-shaded lawns alongside sculpted beds of cacti and pretty indigoblue buildings (jardinmajorelle.com). KWT

Souks you, sir

Fanatical about food? Or does design do it for you? A citybreak tailor-made for your pleasures might be just the ticket â&#x20AC;&#x201C; try one of these five for size

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Cairo: for culture Even if you ﬁnd history a yawn, Cairo is gloriously, spellbindingly ancient. From the spooky City of the Dead, where people live among Ottoman Tombs, to the 5,000-yearold Sphinx – still missing the nose shot off by Napoleon – the Egyptian capital is stuffed with magniﬁcent antiquity. You don’t have to hunt it out: forget queuing to see the pyramids and take them lazily in from elegant rooftop bars instead – the pool cafe (and many of the rooms) at Le Méridien Pyramids hotel (starwood hotels.com) has fantastic views of the golden triangles.

For a taste of life in one of the world’s largest medieval cities – a boisterous warren of silversmiths and soap-sellers – hop off the metro at Ataba. Landmark 24-hour Fishawi’s cafe is right by the Khan al-Khalili bazaar. Order some chai tea and suck on an apple-ﬂavoured shisha while the city whirls by. The mosques and museums of the Citadel (a 12th-century fortress) are best appreciated from afar. Citadel View Restaurant (dinner for two, $30), in AlAzhar Park, is built on a 500-year-old

rubbish dump (even the garbage in Cairo is antique). They do a superb pigeon soup, and vistas across the colourful gardens to the thick towers and white domes of the Citadel are intoxicating. Fancy an historic kip? Winston Churchill once stayed at the luxurious, lavishly gardened in Giza (oberoimenahouse.com; rooms from $260, room only). The basic-butatmospheric Windsor hotel (windsorcairo. com; rooms from $60, B&B) is full of charming old soaks reminiscing about the reign of King Farouk. KWT

Tunis: for tastebuds In the Tunisian capital, you’ll dine like a prince and pay like a pauper. Crunchy salads are doused in dark-green olive oil, pastries ooze fluffy ricotta and fresh seafood is everywhere. Start the day with an almond pastry and a bag of deglet nour – the best dates in town are this rich, caramel-coloured variety – in the noisy central market. Then head for the souks that crowd the great Zitouna Mosque. The pavement restaurant Mahdaoui (Rue Jemaa ez Zitouna; mains from $6) has been here nearly as long as the mosque, and serves wonderfully spicy salade mechouia (roast tomatoes, peppers, tuna and a boiled egg). For something fancier, join politicians and diplomats at Dar el Jeld (00 216 71 560916; three courses from $60), where steamy beef stews and flaky fish pies are served in a lavishly restored house in the fabulous Medina. As the late-afternoon haze sets in, follow the locals onto the TGM train

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for the 30-minute ride to Sidi Bou Saïd (returns from $2.40), the pretty blue-and-white village that overlooks the Bay of Tunis. Head for clifftop Café Sidi Chaabane, where mint tea is served with pine nuts and views of the sun slipping seawards. You’ll need to book ahead to get a table at nearby Au Bon Vieux Temps (56 Rue Hedi Zarrouk; three courses from $60), an old house with a small terrace and a big view over the bay. The pasta marinara and grilled seabass are simply delicious. Arrive for the late shift if you want to feel as if you’re in with the regulars. The family-run Dar el Medina (darelmedina.com; rooms from $240, B&B) is Tunis’s ﬁrst riad-style hotel, and has 12 cosy rooms. Or ask for one of the modern, inoffensively corporate-looking rooms away from the street at the Hotel Carlton (hotelcarltontunis.com; rooms from $100, B&B). The town gets pretty noisy at night.

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Fez: for funky medinas Saying you’ll get lost in Fez is like saying you’ll get wet in water. But shrug off those inhibitions, and it won’t matter a jot – you’ll be too absorbed in the craftwork on every corner. Along medina walls, men weave long red, purple and orange strands of cactus silk, and in Seffarine Square, metalworkers whack sheets of brass and copper into elegant lamps and pots. Nearby, newly dyed clothes drip pools of indigo, while the stench of ammonia-rich pigeon deposits rises from the leatherproducing tannery pits. But the greatest meeting of craft and art is the city’s zellij – the tiny, painted

mud tiles that form bewilderingly complex geometric doodles in myriad shades. They’re everywhere you turn: on the ﬂoors of ancient medersas (schools), lining fountains (many homes don’t have running water), and coating the walls of mosques, towering minarets and the city gates. One of the best places to contemplate the zellij work is in the Bou Inania medersa, on the city’s main shopping street, Talaa Kebira – so ornate, it’s impossible for your eye to settle. Or, slip down a warren of duck-yourhead alleys on the quieter Al-Andalous side of the city: the Sahrij medersa isn’t as well restored as Bou Inania, but it’s much more

peaceful. Hand the guardian 10 dirhams (about $1.50) and wander on your own: it feels like being inside a kaleidoscope. Eat among the zellij at Maison Bleue (00 212 3574 1843, www.maisonbleue.com; four courses from $90). It’s pricey, but the chicken-stuffed pastries are worth it. There’s exquisite zellij and 16m-high ceilings in the ﬁve rooms at Riad Alkantara (riadalkantara.com; rooms from $480, B&B). At Riad Tizwa (riadtizwa.com; rooms from $100, B&B), 12th-century replicas mingle with original zellij (earliest examples date back to around 808AD). The rooms are painted in lovely jewel colours.

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Alex: for architecture Curled around the coast west of the Nile Delta, Alexandria (‘Alex’ for short) was better known as the Capital of Memory after its demise in the ’40s. The extravagant seafront mansions of settlers from around the Med decayed as colonialism waned and the Egyptian Republic rose. It’s still wreathed in sea-worn neglect, but that’s the appeal: it’s like a stay in a sepia postcard. Start in Saad Zaghloul Square. Here the fab-faded Cecil Hotel ﬂaunts it like a party guest that never left: its MoorishArt Deco facade typiﬁes timeworn Alex. Gawp at more grandeur as you walk the waterfront of the Eastern Harbour beyond: apartments rippling with Florentine turrets, balustrading and arcading might have come from Sunset Boulevard, Nice or the Bay of Naples. Idle over coffee in Delices (Saad Zaghloul, beside the Ramleh tram station), one of Alex’s classic patisseries. Its walls ooze atmosphere, as if former literary expats (eg, Lawrence Durrell) might step in any second.

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Not much remains of the ancient city (the tomb of Alexander the Great, its founder, has never been pinpointed), but the Catacombs of Shouqfa – Roman relics – in Karmouz quarter, survive, full of sarcophagi, carved serpents and Medusa reliefs, mysterious in the half-light. The future’s in great shape with the Bibliotheca Alexandrina (bibalex. org): this cultural centre is a vast cylinder of glass and aluminium, full of rare books and manuscripts. Last port of call? The backstreet Cap d’Or (Saad Zaghloul), an extraordinary little unreconstructed café where walls are laced with gilded Art Nouveau tendrils – whimsical relics of the city’s heyday. Sleep Four Seasons Hotel Alexandria at San Stefano (fourseasons.com/alexandria; rooms from $800, B&B) is the city’s smartest – there’s a pool with Med horizons and great Lebanese mezze. The Soﬁtel Cecil Alexandria (soﬁtel.com; rooms from $244, B&B) lacks the pizazz of its golden age, but harbour views swing it.

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Tangier: for tearaways Henri Matisse waved his brush here and Tennessee Williams wrote Cat on a Hot Tin Roof. Until it was reclaimed by Morocco in 1956, Tangier was an independent, international city-state, with far more laid-back laws than the rest of the country. While Tangier isn’t as disreputable as it once was, it’s easy to relive the decadent ’50s on a nostalgic wander through the city. Start in the medina (Heiress Barbara Hutton had a palace here) – and let the views from the top across the sparkling Strait of Gibraltar inspire your inner poet.

Then head to Petit Socco (the seedier area of the souks); the likes of Bob Dylan and The Rolling Stones used to crowd the rickety tables on the tiered terraces tumbling towards the sea at Café Hafa (Rue Hafa, La Marshan). Matisse fans shouldn’t miss the tiny St Andrews on nearby Rue d’Angleterre – he painted it from his room at the Grand Hotel Villa de France, just metres away. These days, you’re likely to ﬁnd arty types being served lamb tagine by pantalooned waiters at Hammadi (2 Rue d’Italie; mains from £12). Afterwards,

head to the Tanger Inn (1 Rue Magellan), which trades on its colourful beatnik past – Allen Ginsberg and Jack Kerouac used to visit – perfect for a post-dinner coffee. Sleep El Minzah (00 212 39 333444, www.elminzah.com; rooms from $260, B&B) was built in the ’30s by Lord Bute; rooms have elegant carvings and antique furniture. Or try the Hotel Continental (00 212 39 931024, www.continental-tanger. com; rooms from $100, B&B), where colonial shabby-chic meets distressed Arabesque and writer Paul Bowles drafted The Sheltering Sky. KWT

Starry, starry nights Desirable desert camps, modish merchants’ homes, and subterranean sleeps – from $30! You’ll take a shine to these finds. By Jeremy Lazell and Anthony Sattin

Morocco KSAR MASSA, SIDI RBAT PERFECT FOR: PEACE-SEEKING FASHIONISTAS Morocco isn’t short of beach resorts but, even with nearly 2,000km of coastline, finding a crowd-free stretch of sand can be tricky. Weekenders from Casablanca and Rabat migrate as far south as Safi (350km south of Rabat). And the once quiet resort of Essaouira is now almost as popular among Brits as sprawling package resort Agadir. Just 40km south, however, things change dramatically: no industry, no villages, no hotels except heavenly Ksar Massa. Opened four years ago, the hotel has just 10 rooms and two gorgeous villas, and floats among the dunes above Sidi Rbat beach like a pasha’s palace. The pool overlooks the sea, there’s a hammam by the beach, and souky decor that deserves to feature in a fashion shoot. Swap sparkly flip-flops for wellies on one of the guided excursions to the nearby wetland reserves of Souss-Massa National Park – you’re bound to spot falcons, cranes and stringylegged flamingos. Rooms from $280, B&B (ksarmassa.com). KASBAH DU TOUBKAL, IMLIL PERFECT FOR: FILM FANS Film director Martin Scorsese used this gorgeous converted kasbah as a Tibetan monastery in his 1997 film, Kundun. You’ll know why when you see the film-set fabulous views. Sixty-four kilometres south of Marrakech, Kasbah du Toubkal looms large over the surrounding villages from its hilltop perch, encircled by a crown of High Atlas summits, including the loftiest mountain in North Africa, Mount Toubkal. 36

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It’s not the grandest kasbah hotel in these parts – Branson’s decadent Kasbah Tamadot (kasbahtamadot.virgin.com) takes that title – but for half the $560 per night it’ll cost you to stay chez Richard, Kasbah du Toubkal gets everything understatedly right. It’s lavish but not fussy, relaxed but mindful of who is paying the bill, friendly but not over-familiar. And what a place to simply hang out. There are endless trails up into the surrounding hills, and guides can be hired from the hotel for the long (though manageable) walk up Mount Toubkal. But with food this good, an inviting hammam and mint tea on the sunny rooftop, you’ll be lucky if you ever get your walking boots on. Rooms from $280, B&B (kasbahdutoubkal.com). GAZELLE D’OR, TAROUDANT PERFECT FOR: STAR-SPOTTING Taroudant is an enticing mini-Marrakech, a 45-minute drive from Agadir, hunkered down between the Atlas mountains and the Sahara desert. With its twice-weekly Berber market, the medieval-walled town is busiest on Thursdays and Saturdays. Escape the hubbub at the serene Gazelle d’Or – you might have to remortgage to pay the bill, but it’s worth it. The sprawling luxury resort has just 30 sumptuous pavilions, each with its own hill-view terrace and crackling open ﬁre. There are also rose gardens, a lounger-lined pool and the likes of Jagger, Chirac and Fergie on the guest list. Rooms from $600, B&B (gazelledor.com). DAR LOULEMA, ESSAOUIRA PERFECT FOR: SEASIDE EXPLORERS Even though Essaouira is considerably Caravan Serai

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busier than the sleepy ﬁshing village that Jimi Hendrix discovered in the ’60s, it is still a captivating place to explore. You can almost sense the ghosts of Portuguese and Arab traders wandering the dark alleyways that wriggle through the medina – and you can idle away days watching carpenters and carpet sellers working within the ramparts. Dar Loulema is a white-washed boutique hotel, just off the wide and breezy central square. There are eight rooms – ‘Marrakech’ is decked out in spicy red shades and ‘Mogador’ has ice-white and splashes of midnight-blue. But you’ll probably spend most of your time here taking in the dramatic views of crashing Atlantic waves from one of the wicker chairs on the rooftop. Rooms from $132, B&B (darloulema.com). CARAVAN SERAI, MARRAKECH PERFECT FOR: SANCTUARY IN THE CITY Tucked away 15 or 20 minutes’ drive beyond the edge of town, overlooking leafy Palmeraie, Caravan Serai is a fashionable jumble of cupolas and courtyards, orchards and olive groves – not so much a boutique hideaway as a fake-ancient hamlet of private rooms and terraces, two with their own plunge pool. Everything is arranged around a central swimming pool and courtyard – a fantastic place to sit out at night and imagine the distant whirr of the city. Rooms from $280, B&B (hotelcaravanserai.com). CAMP D’ATTA, SAHARA PERFECT FOR: LONE RANGERS Merzouga is Morocco’s southern frontier town, a dusty desperado of a place, two days’ drive south of Marrakech. Next KWT

Whare Kea Chalet

stop Algeria – if you make it across the Sahara, that is. Camp d’Atta calls for another two hours of desert driving beyond Merzouga – it’s utterly isolated, with a sense of wilderness so potent you’ll pine at some stage for the bright(ish) lights of Merzouga. There are dinners of tasty meatballs followed by lamb tagines and ten wonderfully unadorned ‘nomad’ tents, attractively equipped with double beds and cosy woven rugs – they’re made for indolence after the rigours of roaming the rust-red dunes. From $80pp per night, full board. Dune exploration by foot or camel can be arranged by the camp (originslodge.com; open October-May).

Tunisia

HOTEL DAR DHIAFA, DJERBA PERFECT FOR: SOLITUDE-SEEKERS Odysseus got waylaid on the island of Djerba – his men were too busy gorging on lotuses with the locals. These days the beach is the attraction for most visitors, but the interior – carpeted with olive groves and fruit orchards – has an appealingly abandoned charm. Eight kilometres inland from busy Houmt Souk, on the northern coast, Dar Dhiafa is a cluster of four 600-year-old houses and a jigsaw of courtyards. Rooms have been painted in traditional creams and pretty pastel shades, and candle-lit dinners are served alfresco, the air heavy with amber incense. Rooms from $200, B&B (hoteldardhiafa.com).

DAR EL MEDINA, TUNIS PERFECT FOR: THE ROYAL TREATMENT Hidden away behind huge wooden doors, deep within the maze of lanes that twist through Tunis’s 8th-century medina, lies this meticulously renovated merchant’s house. It’s been in the same Tunisian family since 1825, opening its darkwood doors for the ﬁrst time in 2006 – the ﬁrst time a private house in the Unesco-protected Old Town has welcomed the public. Rooms from $244, B&B (darelmedina.com).

DAR SAÏD, SIDI BOU SAÏD PERFECT FOR: ROMANTICS Situated in the prettiest village in Tunisia (and possibly North Africa), this 19thcentury residence is bedecked with bougainvillea, trickling fountains and marble courtyards. Set in the heart of Sidi Bou Saïd – a 13th-century clifftop village famed for its blue and white buildings and cobalt bay – the house has 24 rooms with elegant tiled interiors.Rooms from $300, B&B (darsaid.com.tn).

VILLA DIDON, CARTHAGE PERFECT FOR: CHINTZ-PHOBES A bold, white, glass-walled slab of ’60s minimalism, Villa Didon sits atop Byrsa Hill above ancient Carthage, gazing down at the tourist scrum in the ruins below. Carthage may span 28 centuries, but there’s nothing dusty about Villa Didon: the futuristic decor is by Philippe Starck and artist/ architect Ron Arad. Villa Didon’s spirit is thrustingly 21st century, too. The Light Bar is the place for fashionable Tunisians while the ten of the swankiest suites have remote-controlled blinds, whirlpool tubs and views of the ruins. There’s also a spa and hammam, as well as one of the best restaurants in North Africa. Rooms from $512, room only (villadidon.com).

PANSEA KSAR GHILANE, SAHARA PERFECT FOR: GLAM CAMPERS It’s camping, but not as you’d picture it. Indecently luxurious, Pansea basks among thickets of date palms and sand dunes in a Saharan oasis – gentle camel treks and 4WD dune safaris are about as hardcore as it gets. You won’t go without: expect marble ﬂoors in the tents, a palm-shaded pool, and Tunisian pastries and kebabs in a posh indoor restaurant. But none of this detracts from the wild desert landscape all around. Rooms from $226, B&B (pansea.com).

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HOTEL MARHALA, MATMATA PERFECT FOR: WANNABE JEDI Remember the alien disco in the original Star Wars movie? It was ﬁlmed here: the

This page: Adrere Amellal, Siwa

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Hotel Marhala is a rabbit warren of rooms and corridors six metres underground in the troglodyte village of Matmata, nearly 800km south of Tunis. This bizarre hamlet was dug out by ancestors of the Berbers, who still live here for relief from the heat. The hotel is far from luxurious – there are bare light bulbs and no ensuites – but it’s fantastic fun. Temperatures of around 50ºC mid-summer are pretty fearsome – fortunately, your room is kept at a comfortable, constant 17ºC. Rooms from $30, half board (touringclubtunisie.org).

Egypt ADRÈRE AMELLAL, SIWA PERFECT FOR: PAMPERED ECO-ENTHUSIASTS Most people thought owner Mounir Neamattalah was mad when he started building Adrère Amellal out of salt-rich mud. What? No electricity? Years on, this eco-lodge, beside Siwa oasis in northwest Egypt, is one of the most spectacular hotels in North Africa. The retreat blends into its surrounds like a giant sandcastle, the salt in the mud walls sparkling by candlelight, adding a touch of fairytale romance to the cave-dweller feel. Rooms are sumptuous but fuss-free – beds are crafted out of dried palm fronds and topped with fabulously fluffy duvets. The Adrère Amellal might be all-inclusive, but you won’t find any queues for a tired-looking buffet here. Instead, ingredients (many from the hotel’s own organic garden) are turned into hibiscus-flower risottos and delicate date soufflés. There’s a spring-water swimming pool, a stable of thoroughbred horses and regular 4WD excursions into the Great Sand Sea to keep you entertained during daylight hours. Lunch is taken under the palms near the pool and dinner could be in a sparkly salt-encrusted chamber or on the roof – beneath a jet-black sky dusted with stars. Rooms from $750, full board (adrereamellal.net). KWT

STEIGENBERGER AL DAU PERFECT FOR: OLD-SCHOOL CHARM For some good old-fashioned jollity you can’t beat the Steigenberger Al Dau Beach Hotel. Located just 6km from the airport, it’s a veritable playground for fun-lovers. The 372 bedrooms are decorated in warm, earthy tones designed to invoke Kenyan Swahili style, and all have mountain or sea views. As well as a pool and lazy river, the private beach has water sports aplenty: from laid-back windsurfing to whiteknuckle wakeboarding, there’s something to satisfy water babies young or old. Golf lovers are also well catered for, with a nine-hole, three-par course on the beach. Those seeking a slower pace of holiday can make the most of the Algotherm Red Sea Thalasso Spa, with 10 treatment rooms ready to service people eager to experience first-hand the natural benefits that come from seaweed and the sea. The Turkish bath, saunas and heated salt water pool (complete with whirlpool) will make you wish you never had to go home.Rooms from $90 per night bed and breakfast. (steigenbergeraldaubeach.com). ESKALEH, ABU SIMBEL PERFECT FOR: CULTURE-SEEKERS Most people visit Abu Simbel on a hectic daytrip from Aswan; but stay a while and you’ll find calm and culture at this mudbrick retreat. The silence at night can be almost disconcerting after the noise of most Egyptian hotels, but it’s conducive to reading in the library, stuffed with books on the history of Nubia. The vaulted bedrooms aren’t fancy, but they’re comfy. Outside, the land running down towards the lake has been turned into an organic vegetable garden. Owner Kachif is a musician, and occasionally invites his friends over to give guests an impromptu performance. Rooms from $74, room only (00 20 97 3340 1288). 40

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Desert tours with Nessima; below, The Steigenberger Al Dau

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NESIMA HOTEL, DAHAB PERFECT FOR: DIE-HARD DIVERS Dahab draws in-the-know divers (and, thanks to the odd beach party, a slightly hippie crowd). There have been some recent resort openings nearby, but with its prime beachfront location in the older part of town, the Nesima epitomises the more laid-back, quiet side of Dahab. The domed rooms come in varying sizes: some are small and dark, to shield guests from the glare of the blistering Sinai sun. But the main attraction is the palm-lined pool and, just beyond it, the Red Sea itself (there’s an in-house dive centre if you want to get out into the big blue wet stuff). On the upper level, the rooftop café comes up trumps around dusk. Rooms from $106, B&B (nesima-resort.com).

Libya TALISMAN, CAIRO PERFECT FOR: CITY-SLICKERS Egypt has more than its fair share of monuments (and monumental hotels), but it has been slow to catch the boutique hotel bug, which makes Talisman all the more remarkable. It bills itself as a ‘hôtel de charme’, and was the first boutique retreat to open in the capital (a second, grander property – Villa Belle Epoque – is set to open in the suburb of Maadi in February). The location is unusual to say teh least – Talisman occupies one floor of an old 1930s building in the heart of trafficchoked downtown Cairo – but that makes it a great base for visits to the Egyptian Museum and Old City. You also get an intense blast of hectic Cairo life each time you step into the street. Ottoman-revival fabrics brighten up the rooms, which are remarkably quiet and well-equipped, with air-con and fridges. Rooms from $150 (talisman-hotel.com).

ECO-LODGE SHAGRA VILLAGE, MARSA ALAM PERFECT FOR: LAZY WATER-BABIES A decade ago, the endless coastline south of Hurghada was the sole preserve of turtles and the occasional backpacker. But the opening of an airport at Marsa Alam in 2001, 140km south of Hurghada, brought ease of access to these quiet stretches. Red Sea Diving Safari, an environmentally aware dive specialist, was one of the first in the area and bases itself at Eco-lodge Shagra Village. The resort is 20km north of Marsa Alam, on a beach fringed by a splendid coral reef – so you don’t have to be a pro to see butterfly-fish and big-lipped grouper, you simply need a snorkel and mask. Take your pick from a range of accommodation, from beachfront tents (with beds) to whitewashed, dome-roofed chalets with views of the mountains and waves. Tents from $62pp, chalets from $96pp, full board (redsea-divingsafari.com).

ZUMIT HOTEL, TRIPOLI PERFECT FOR: HISTORY BUFFS Tripoli has long needed a hotel with a little more character than the usual state-owned towerblock, but the chances of finding a romantic hideaway were remote – until now. The recently opened Zumit Hotel may sound like a Soviet-era throwback, but Libya’s first boutique retreat is built from the remains of the oldest hotel in Tripoli – it used to be an Ottoman caravanserai (roadside inn). The building dates back to 1816, and was a favourite pitstop for merchants plying the routes from North Africa, Europe and sub-Saharan Africa. The Zumit is in a tranquil part of the old town, beside the Roman Arch – one of Tripoli’s finest Roman monuments – and the sights and souks are nearby. Some of the 10 rooms and four suites have cosy, cubby-hole beds built into the wall and Ottoman rugs. Rooms from $162, B&B (zumithotel.com). KWT

Pillar Talk Libya may have some of the most dramatic Roman ruins, but it’s the (alarmingly friendly) citizens who will really get you gossiping, says Anthony Sattin

e were barely out of Tripoli airport before we hit our ﬁrst roadblock. Abdallah, my guide, had promised to take me past the city’s main Roman relic, a monumental arch honouring the Emperor Marcus Aurelius, on our way into town. But when we got close, the path was blocked by a crowd of people. Some brandished sticks, banners and ﬁsts, others chanted slogans – the scene was worrying. But rather than an angry mob, I had stumbled upon a street party. We abandoned the arch, Abdallah found himself a drum, and I joined in the clapping. After a while, we moved on into the souk, where I anticipated another onslaught. Elsewhere in Africa and the Middle East, visiting foreigners are regarded as cash cows, and hassle from over-zealous traders is inevitable. I assumed Tripoli would be the same. But those other places are all wedged between the desert and the Mediterranean, between glorious past and uncertain future, while Tripoli is the capital of an oil-rich country that enjoys one of the highest incomes per capita in Africa. I walked around its souk for half an hour before a trader spoke to me, and when he did, it wasn’t to hustle me into a shop – perhaps his own, perhaps his ‘uncle’s’ – and show me badly faked antiquities. Abuzeid, tall and elegant in white robe and black embroidered waistcoat, wanted me to join a game of cards. A teacher and an underwear salesman were already seated on stools around the upturned box that doubled as card and coffee table. Abuzeid dealt the cards. ‘You are welcome in our country. All you British.’

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I assumed he meant that he welcomed our tourist pounds, but Abuzeid corrected me with the dismissive confidence of someone sitting on a significant proportion of the world’s known oil and gas reserves. ‘Not money. We want dialogue. And above all,’ he laughed, ‘we want to play football with you.’ It was a reference, I assumed, to Gaddafi’s son, Al-Saadi, who played briefly in the Italian league. ‘In return, we will show you our country.’ It seemed a fair trade – Libya is even richer in sites than it is in oil. Tripoli

I walked around the souk for half an hour before a trader spoke to me, and when he did, it wasn’t to hustle me into a shop, but to invite me to join him for a game of cards. was once known as Oea; along with the neighbouring ports of Sabratha and Leptis Magna, it made up the Tripolis, the Three Cities. But the drive west through one of Tripoli’s smarter suburbs, a place of concrete softened by palm trees and other greenery, in no way prepared me for Sabratha. Nor did our arrival. The town is an unremarkable, dusty place: a tarmac parking lot, a row of single-storey shops and a restaurant. But as soon as I entered the site, the view opened up and I found myself in a Roman city, a city of cut stone and marble that looked out to a sapphireblue sea.

This picture: columns at Sabrath Right from top: Sabrath; Ghadames; fortiﬁed granary

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“Tripoli, Sabratha, Ghadames… these places alone would have justified the journey to Libya, but the best was yet to come. Of the three cities of the Tripolis, Leptis was the most important, home to twice as many people as Sabratha” History has piled up in Sabratha like leaves in autumn. And within five minutes of arriving, Abdallah had stirred up the pile, mentioning the Phoenicians, Carthage, the Punic Wars, Romans, the earthquake of 365AD, Vandals, Byzantines and Italians. Yes, it was fascinating to know that there were 500-odd North African cities during the Roman heyday of the 3rd century AD, and that Sabratha was one of the largest, home to as many as 40,000 people. And yes, we were all gripped by the news that a ‘ladies first’ rule applied at the public latrines. But Sabratha tells its own story. Walking along ancient streets between rows of houses, coming into the forum, passing the steps of the temples and the law court, I was given a generous glimpse of what it might have been like to live in the ancient Tripolis. You didn’t need to be a prince to have a good time. So long as you weren’t lion fodder in the amphitheatre or a midsummer baker at the ovens, life could have been very pleasant indeed. As one of our group commented when the sea breeze cooled the worn marble and ruffled his shirt: ‘They certainly picked the right spot to live.’ Apparently, modern Libyans think the same, because groups of youngsters and families with small children strolled back and forth, revelling in the place. The next day it became apparent that not everyone was so lucky. South of Tripoli, as we drove towards the oasis town of Ghadames, the lush Mediterranean coast slowly faded to desert. Roads in Libya are good, so I dozed through the day-long drive, stirring to glimpse fertile valleys and barren plains, 44

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concrete villages, goats and, a little later, camels. We stopped to stretch our legs at one of the fortified granaries along the way. While villagers in the rolling hills put their grain into one of these communal, wind-buffed labyrinths to protect it from marauding tribes, the people of Ghadames built themselves a whole town along the same principles. With its large, organic warren of covered, burrowing passages and whitewashed mud-brick houses, Ghadames could have come from another planet. When we entered the old town, it was eerily quiet. Most of it has been abandoned, its inhabitants preferring to live in concrete blocks with showers and electricity. Some of them return in summer because mudbrick stays cooler than concrete. And many are encouraged to keep their houses by Ghadames’ inclusion on Unesco’s World Heritage list and by the growing number of visitors. Tripoli, Sabratha, Ghadames… these places alone would have justified the journey to Libya, but the best was yet to come. Of the three cities of the Tripolis, Leptis was the most important, home to twice as many people as Sabratha (and a two-hour drive from Tripoli). In the end, though, it was just one man who made the difference. Septimius Severus was born in Leptis in 145AD, went as a teenager to Rome and was proclaimed emperor before his 50th birthday. The first African-born emperor didn’t forget his origins: in 202AD, he ordered Leptis to be rebuilt on a grand scale, using grey marble from Algeria and rose granite from Egypt. There were reasons for all this attention

The Libyan desert enjoys tremendous sunsets

– in Roman times, the Libyans were key exporters of a different sort of oil, one made from olives. I spent a day at Leptis but would happily have stayed longer. Few other Roman sites (not even the Forum in Rome) has so seduced me. The details here are wonderful: carvings showing the labours of Hercules, a sailing ship, a palm, the intricacy of the Severan Arch, the grace

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of Hadrian’s Baths, the majesty of the theatre. Sitting in the shade, looking at grooves worn into the stone by carriages long passed, hearing the tooting of horns in the town, I remembered the lines an Arab poet, Sidi Mahrez, composed about the place: ‘Why this void after the pleasure? This desolation after the glory? This nothingness that was once a city? Who will reply?’ As if

to prove him wrong, a gaggle of Libyan girls arrived, all veiled, all noisy, all keen to ask if I was married, to tell me I was welcome in their country and to ask if they would be welcome in mine. Back in Tripoli, I went to play cards again with Abuzeid. During the game he told me that when he misbehaved as a child, his parents warned him that Mrs Thatcher would come and get him. ‘She

was the bogeywoman.’ But then, trouble between Britain and Libya is nothing new: it stretches back to 221AD, when Septimius, golden son of Leptis, was killed ﬁghting in Yorkshire. ‘Now we hope our troubles are over,’ Abuzeid told me, ‘and we will always be friends.’ Having said which, he dealt another hand. ‘And later, we can go and visit the arch you wanted to see. And then go to play football.’ KWT

Inspiration Nations Looking for some extra inspiration? Once you’ve found one spot you love, use our guide to find another where you’ll find just as much fun, from Nile tours to mountain trekking in the Atlas...

The relaxing one

IF YOU LOVE NILE CRUISING… A jaunt down the River Nile between Luxor and Aswan is the laziest and, arguably, most spectacular way to tick off Egypt’s must-see sights. Book up a trip on the M/S Nile Express through American Express Travel Services in Egypt (www.amexfranchise.com) and you can take the trip in five star style, on a 72 metre long vessel kitted out with first class facilities, including an a la carte restaurant and a cards lounge. The cruise will take you along the mighty river, passing some of the most extraordinary ancient sites in the world: make sure to have your camera at the ready as you relax at the deck-top cafe. YOU’LL ALSO LOVE... LAKE NASSER South of the Aswan Dam, on the banks of Lake Nasser, there are still plenty of monuments, but none of the crowds that you may find at some of the sites along the Nile. The lake crosses the border with Sudan, and the Egyptian expanse is broad, with barren banks that graduate to a stark, otherworldly landscape. Only a handful of boats are licensed to cruise here, so there is very little traffic to break the spell as you pootle south across the Tropic of Cancer. Days on board are sprinkled with visits to temples, the best being the last: the Temple of Ramses II at Abu Simbel. The four huge figures sculpted into the sandy rock are 65m higher than their original position – the temple was moved to save it from being drowned in the lake when the dam was built in the 60s.

The beachy one IF YOU LOVE DJERBA… Tunisia’s Land of the Lotus Eaters is no longer the secret it 46

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was when Odysseus passed through. The beaches are long, bleached and backed by whitewashed villages and lofty palms. Those near Mount Souk are considerably less developed than the resort towns of Sousse and Hammamet, but you’ll struggle to ﬁnd peak-season peace. YOU’LL ALSO LOVE... KERKENNAH Beaches don’t get much more secret and undeveloped than these. Marooned off the east coast of Tunisia, the Kerkennah Islands are a tarmac-free zone. There are two main islands, and Sidi Frej is the closest thing to a resort you’ll ﬁnd – with just two hotels, a few cafes, and more camels than postcard shops. It’s a place for rich Tunisians and their holiday homes, with barely another Brit to be found. Better still, with nothing rising more than three metres above sea level, the pretty beaches slope with kidfriendly calm into the clearest of turquoise seas. There’s not a great deal to do, but that’s the point. The only real downside is getting there: boats make the crossing from Sfax ($1.40 return), which is a three-hour drive from Tunis. Consequently, UK tour companies don’t bother, and trips have to be arranged independently.

The watery one IF YOU LOVE LOVE SHARM EL-SHEIKH… Sharm is to divers what St Tropez is to Liz Hurley – home. Warm waters brim with coral reefs, spooky wrecks and inquisitive ﬁsh – it leaves most Red Sea Riviera resorts in Egypt in the shade. But with its stellar reputation comes a built-up waterfront and, in peak season, crowds that wouldn’t look out of place on Brighton beach.

Clockwise from above: cruising down the Nile; Lake Nasser; Tiz n Tichka mountain pass in the Atlas Mountains; the Bent Pyramid at Dashur

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YOU’LL ALSO LOVE... DAHAB A 90-minute drive across the Sinai Peninsula, the ancient Bedouin village of Dahab is the new favourite among in-the-know waterbabies. Dotted between the palms along the shimmering yellow beaches are more than 40 dive clubs that cater for first-timer snorkellers right through to pros capable of tackling the Blue Hole, a mysterious cavern with an archway at its base that leads to the open sea. There are larger, flashier hotels towering behind the beach a few kilometres south of Assalah Bay, but we prefer the laidback atmosphere in the smaller (cheaper) hotels around the bay itself. Whichever you plump for, you’ll have a ball exploring the coral reefs and islands within paddling distance of the shore – just keep on the lookout for the striped fins of the Lionfish.

The adventurous one IF YOU LOVE... THE HIGH ATLAS MOUNTAINS… Picture trekking in Morocco – tramping between hilltop villages and almond orchards – and you’re thinking of the High Atlas mountains. Awesome, ancient and stunningly photogenic, we love them as much as the next trekker. But that’s the problem: the next trekker. Hiking-booted tourists clutter the valleys around Toubkal (the highest peak in North Africa) like sheep, and your chances of seeing an empty horizon are slim. YOU’LL ALSO LOVE... JEBEL SAHRO At the far eastern end of the Anti Atlas range, wedged between the High Atlas and the Sahara, the Jebel Sahro mountains form a savage, seductive landscape of desperately remote villages and spectacular, windsculpted outcrops of rock. It looks like Arizona’s Monument Valley, only without the Winnebagos. The Berbers fought their last stand here against the French – and who can blame them for being reluctant to part with the place? Best of all, it’s gloriously warm and sunny in winter (when the High Atlas is buried in snow), with crystal-clear visibility and bright blue skies. Nights are cold, mind, so you’ll need warm gear for sitting around the campﬁre and taking in the glittering night skies, hands wrapped around a cup of post-trek mint tea. KWT

Beirut Uncovered

Forget all preconceptions of war-torn Beirut. The Lebanese capital is very much back on its feet. A city of contrasts, culture and charm, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s easy to see why Erin Mc Cafferty found it beguilingâ&#x20AC;Ś

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o there I am sitting in the back of a taxi tearing down the motorways of the rather shabby-looking Southern district where the Beirut International airport is located. The car is a BMW which judging by its run-down appearance dates back to the ’70s. Given the crazy speed at which we’re careering along and the fact that other cars keep straddling the lanes, I’m trying desperately to lock my seat-belt, which appears to be broken. To make matters worse my face is perspiring from the summer heat and lack of airconditioning and fumes of petrol are almost overwhelming. The taxi man, smoking contentedly, takes one hand off the wheel and waves a box of tar-heavy cigarettes at me. ‘You want?’ he asks, taking his eyes off the road and turning his head momentarily towards me, as the car swerves and my heart skips a beat. Driving in Beirut is a unique experience and not for the faint-hearted. Picture the scene as we near the centre of the Lebanese capital and the streets become narrow, winding and sluggish: the horns of run-down cars (old-fashioned BMWs, Mercedes and Skodas amongst them) beep frantically as lively Arabic music drifts from a car radio somewhere and people stick their heads out of windows and banter with each other. A middle-aged man with a weather-beaten face and yellowing skin, hair greased back and shirt half unbuttoned, sells fruit at the side of the road, a cigarette hung from his lips as he waves effusively to a passing car

and calls out a greeting in Lebanese French. Meanwhile European-style mopeds weave in and out of the traffic steered by smartlydressed teenagers, some in twos with the passenger perched precariously side-saddle. Driving through these narrow streets, you cannot but be taken aback at the blatant contrasts at every turn. For every modern building, round the corner in Beirut and you’re met with a scene so run-down it could be from another era. Modern malls with the same mix of high street and designer stores you’ll find in any other city and ultra elegant hotels stand just yards from crumbling apartment blocks which still bare the bullet holes of war. You’ll see trees growing out of broken window frames and washing strung gaily out to dry across the higher levels of buildings, which stand adjacent to massive hoardings depicting ads for plastic surgery and up-tothe-minute beauty treatments… If you’re expecting a picturesque city, forget it. But what the capital lacks in aesthetics it makes up for in character and few fail to be charmed by its culture and welcoming people. Dramatic, friendly and ready to chat at the drop of a hat, it’s hard not to like them. The men will catch your eye and grin so blatantly you’ll end up laughing at them first and with them later. The women must be among some of the most well-groomed in the world. It’s obvious that appearance is all-important in Beirut. But it’s a failing you’ll forgive because of the unequalled charm and generally ridiculous positivity of the people.

“If you’re expecting a picturesque city, forget it. But what the capital lacks in aesthetics it makes up for in character” Voted the Number one Destination in the World to visit by The New York Times magazine this summer, Beirut is currently experiencing a surge in tourist numbers and is fast making a name for itself as one of the tourist capitals of the world. Filled with restaurants, museums, art galleries and stores, it’s ﬂanked by the Mediterranean on one side and beautiful mountains on the other, and offers easy access to a variety of picturesque and interesting day-trips. But let’s start with Downtown – a central area of the city that has been largely rebuilt since the war ended in 1990. Wandering its cobblestoned streets by day, you’ll see pristine buildings which wouldn’t look out of place in 19th century Vienna with their Romanesque arches, ornate balconies and wooden-paneled shutters. In some ways this part of the city is symbolic. For a nation this proud and image conscious, still trying to getting back on its feet after decades of war, Downtown proves to the world that they can do it. By days its elegant piazzas and stately pedestrianised streets are a good place to stroll. Most lead to lead to the central Nijmeh Square with the well-known clock tower, built during the French Mandate. If you’re KWT

Clockwise: Byblos Castle, Baalbeck, aerial view of the city

“There is of course more to Beirut than just city life. The stunning surrounding scenery is all-important too and a number of day-trips, including to Byblos, should definitely be on your agenda” after designer wear, indulge in some retail therapy at any of the high end stores. They’re all here: Prada, Gucci, you name it – the Lebanese like their labels. When it comes to shopping, both the ABC Mall in Ashrafieh and City Mall in the North Eastern part of the city offer a good mix of high street and designer clothing. But for something a little more authentic and a bargain to boot, check out the Souk El-Ahad, a weekend flea market where you’ll find everything from flowers to electronic goods to locally produced food and vintage clothing. Many of the local artisans and boutiques sell their ware here too. Le Balcon des Créateurs (Sharia Gouraud, Gemmayzeh, 00 961 1 565 636), a shop in an old Gemayzeh house stocks the work of lots of talented young designers. Johnny Farah (Rue Said Akl, SaifiVillage, 00 961 1 974 808) is worth a look too, for excellent leather accessories. Downtown comes alive at night, offering a fine selection of cafés and restaurants. La Centrale (Saifi, 00 961 1 575858) has great food on offer - leave enough room for 50

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the feuillantine au chocolat et noisettes for dessert – but it’s the architecture of this chic French eatery that stands out most. Located in a re-constructed 1920s-style building, the minimalist wood and metallic interior and metal oval roof gives it a futuristic feel. Jazz and electro lounge music adds to the funky atmosphere. Despite the variety of cuisine available, it would be crazy not to eat Lebanese in the country’s capital. Despite the fact that it’s one of a chain, Karam (Bazerkan Street, 00 961 1 991 222) has kept its authenticity and is still a favourite with many locals. Think freshly-made hummos, melt-in-the-mouth ﬂatbread and salads so fresh they almost hop off the plate. These combined with a ﬁne quality chicken or lamb kebab will set you up for the night. White Restaurant (An Nahar Building, 8th Floor Martyrs Square, Marfa’, 00 961 3 060 090) is another good spot both for dancing and dining. As the name implies, its interior is white with comfortable lounging seats. It serves delicious nouvelle cuisine – don’t miss

the delicious Goat Cheese tart, filled with crumbling goat’s cheese and lined with warm buttery short-cut pastry served on a bed of roasted baby tomatoes and fresh wild lettuce. Although be warned: the small portions are more suited to figure-watching model types (of which you’ll see plenty of in this club) than ravenous tourists. What is it about retractable roof-tops in Beirut? Every second venue seems to have one. Its part of the draw too at B-O18 (Dora Highway, Karantina, Beirut, 00 961 3 8000 18), an after-hours spot which is a perennial favourite amongst locals. Don’t be put off by the bombshelter-like appearance or the fact that the tables are made from coffins. The highlight of your visit will be the roof opening, which takes place once the place fills up and when you least expect it. But there is of course more to Beirut than just city life. The stunning surrounding scenery is all-important too and a number of day-trips should definitely be on your agenda. Part of the appeal is the fact that in just 45 minutes you can be high in the mountains

Your taste. For life.

At Arjaan Hotel Apartments, we invite you to feel at home. An element of your decorative flare could be just the thing that makes all the difference for your long-term stay. Whatever comforts make you feel at home, our place is yours to adapt â&#x20AC;&#x201C; just the way you like it. Our growing portfolio includes four different property types in over 68 locations. Treasured Time. Our promise to you.

P.O. Box 43500, Abu Dhabi, UAE. T: +971 (0)2 644 4412, F: +971 (0)2 644 4413, head.office@rotana.com

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The InterContinental Phoenicia Beirut

“The Phoenicia’s Corniche location makes it the perfect place to soak up the sun” which in summer boast spectacular views of undulating hills and valleys with lush, green vegetation for as far as the eye can see. Brumana is a great option which offers breath-taking mountain views. The locals will undoubtedly recommend that you visit Gytos, a compound of crystallized caves located 20 km north of Beirut in the Valley of Nahr al-Kalb (Dog River). A grotto made up of two stunning limestone caves it’s in the running to be one of the new Seven Wonders of the World. The stunning Roman ruins of Baalbeck can be done in a day too. Just 86 kilometres northeast of Beirut in eastern Lebanon they make a peaceful respite from city life and remind you just how ancient the country is. And the pretty ﬁshing village of Byblos (also known as Jbeil) just 37 km from the

centre is a must-do for any tourist. This picture postcard-like cove is a tiny port with a wealth of history and culture dating back 7,000 years. It has a lively souk in the Old Town, just yards from the port where bobbing ﬁshing boats and small yachts are moored. The shore is laced with raised restaurants, all of which sell fresh tasty seafood. When you’re weary after a day spent wandering, check out Locanda (Byblos, 00 961 99 44 333), a restaurant in the centre of the Old Town. Perched high on the second level of a building, it’s a great place to watch the people as they mill around below. The other side offers breathtaking sea views. Wherever you sit, it’s the perfect setting to while a way few hours of a hot summer afternoon. In the distance you can see a remarkably intact castle which stands on a small hill benevolently overlooking the town. It’s a lovely place to wrap up a visit to this most stimulating of destinations. WHERE TO STAY For a seaside location and ﬁve-star luxury, head to the Phoenicia Beirut (www. ichotelsgroup.com), an InterContinental

hotel. Although it’s close to the business and Down Town districts, its Corniche location also makes it the perfect place to soak up the sun beside the glorious outdoor pool (or, in winter months, to shelter by the indoor version). And if it’s relaxation you’re after, the Spa InterContinental specialises in Thalassotherapy, its body wraps, facials and massages utilising sea minerals to leave you with a truly blissed-out glow. When you’re feeling hungry, take your pick between Mosaic, where a Lebanese and Oriental buffet is cooked up at live stations; Eau de Vie, the trendy top-floor French restaurant; Asian eatery WOK W.O.K.; and Caffe Mondo, which dishes up authentic Italian dishes alongside its excellent salad bar. Another great option, where we stayed, is the five-star Gefinor Rotana Hotel in the Hamar district (rotana.com). Although some establishments will offer more plush surroundings the personal attention of the staff stood out and the location offers easy access, not just to Downtown, but also Verdun, Achrafieh and the major exhibition grounds. Beirut airport is just 15 minutes away. KWT

DISCOVER LONDONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NEWEST SHOPPING EXPERIENCE

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London Buses

OVERGROUND

CONCIERGE NETHERLANDS

SYDNEY

ISTANBUL

PEMBROKESHIRE

THE 30-SECOND CONCIERGE

Image courtesy of Design Hotels™

KRUISHEREN HOTEL, MAASTRICHT, NETHERLANDS What’s the best way to spend a day? Wander the cobble-stoned medieval streets, checking out the breathtaking basilica and fortiﬁed city walls. There’s a surprisingly extensive range of shops here – book lovers will be instantly charmed by De Bovenste Plank, which houses over 30,000 antique titles as well as local art, while chic boutique L’Altra Max will dazzle fashionistas with its eclectic mix of fashion, chandeliers and caviar. Where’s good for a quick bite? To try out some local cuisine, head to Sjiek, a long, narrow restaurant that’s always lively. The beef ﬁllet with fries is a sure bet, and be warned: portions are huge so don’t order too much. If hearty meat-based dishes aren’t your bag, hit the slightly

bizarrely named Ginger Asian Flavours for melt-in-the-mouth sushi and a mean mixed tempura with pumpkin and shrimp. I fancy getting out of the city and exploring – is there anything to do in the surrounding areas? Take a boat trip to the St Pietersberg Caves (but ﬁnd out about tours before you set off as only one is done in English per day). Technically manmade, the network of underground passageways were formed over hundreds of years as a result of quarrying and provided a handy shelter for locals during World War II sieges. Alternatively, if you’re the active type, rent a bike and you’ll be able to tell people you visited three countries in a day: Belgium and Germany are exceedingly close neighbours. www.chateauhotels.nl KWT

AUSTRALIA

Sydney Harbour Bridge, Bondi Beach

Visit Sydney

Australia’s hedonistic hellraiser delivers sun by day, fun after dark… It’s hot down there, says Dan Rookwood Supermodel good looks and approachable down-to-earthness make Sydney easy to fall for. She’s got irresistible physical charms and she’s not afraid to show them off: that Harbour Bridge is unashamedly beautiful, while the Opera House glints in the sunshine with the sparkle of a newlywed’s solitaire. Then there are the world-class surﬁng beaches: the sun shines, the waves crash, the people barbecue – does life get any better? Sydney’s sunny fun sputs her on everyone’s once-in-a-lifetime holiday planner. 56

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WHERE TO STAY NO EXPENSE SPARED Park Hyatt 7 Hickson Rd, The Rocks (sydney.park.hyatt.com) Why settle for one balcony when, from the 185sq m top-ﬂoor Governor Suite, you could have six (plus a 270º view of the Bridge and the Opera House?). If you’ve got the cash to splash, have lunch aboard the hotel yacht, too. Governor Suite from $6,000; rooms from $600, room only. Blue The Wharf at Woolloomooloo, 6 Cowper Wharf Rd (tajhotels.com/sydney).

Rock star? Actress? Model? If you’re from out of town but you’re in town, chances are, your PA has put you up in Blue. (Well, it is one of the coolest sleepovers in Sydney – maybe Oz). Rooms from $276, room only. MIDDLE OF THE ROAD Australia Street Cottage 227 Australia St, Newtown australiastreetcottage. com Set in the heart of Newtown, Sydney’s kooky bohemia, this characterful selfcontained sandstone cottage feels like a family home: kitchen,

living room, dining room, laundry, courtyard. From $200 per night, room only. Kathryn’s on Queen 20 Queen St, Woollahra

(kathryns.com.au). This three-bed European-style listed building is what the design magazines call ‘shabby chic’: showing off antique

ASK THE LOCAL Justin Hemmes, owner of Sydney’s Ivy. Despite what people say, it’s actually not that difﬁcult to get in to Ivy! You just have to be well-dressed and respectful to the door staff (but I would say that, wouldn’t I?). After a night at work, I love to head to Gertrude & Alice cafe-bookshop in Bondi (46 Hall Street) for brekkie and a chai tea. They also do an awesome halloumi salad. If you want a tranquil patch of sand to yourself, skip the northern beaches and head south down to Jervis Bay where the coast is much more rugged – just how I imagine Captain Cook would have found it. There are some great beach houses for rent – much nicer than holing up in a hotel.

CONCIERGE SYDNEY

Clockwise: Park Hyatt, restaurant at Park Hyatt, Blue cafe at Blue Sydney

overlooking the surfers as the waves crash into the iconic ocean pool below. Mains from $34.

SAY WHAT? Sydney is one of the most multilingual cities in the world: its combined residents speaking 140 languages. One-quarter of Sydney-siders speak a language other than English at home. DON’T WEAR: Ugg boots (originally from Australia) in public. Over here they’re strictly for ‘bogans’ (pikeys). REEL TURKEY: The numberone film in 2008 was Australia. Like a car crash, everyone knew it was a disaster, but couldn’t resist looking. THE ‘NORTH BONDI’ LOOK: Spend an hour grooming that sunkissed beach hair… put on $200 swimming costume and big ’80s shades… French furniture and flower-filled balconies. Don’t even think about skipping breakfast – the kitchen caters to all desires and appetites. Rooms from $160, B&B. WHERE TO EAT NO EXPENSE SPARED Quay Overseas Passenger Terminal, The Rocks

(quay.com.au). Serving ‘mod Oz’ food (e.g. lamb with capers and nasturtiums), Quay is considered the best restaurant in Sydney by Australian Gourmet Traveller and Time Out. With views of the Harbour Bridge and the Opera House, it’s best appreciated during the daytime; the $70 three-

course lunch is superb value. Icebergs Dining Room and Bar, 1 Notts Ave, Bondi Beach (idrb.com). This is the place in Sydney to impress clients. The food has an Italian slant but the speciality is steak and, wedged in the cliffs at South Bondi, diners sit

MIDDLE OF THE ROAD Bodega 216 Commonwealth St, Surry Hills (bodegatapas. com). This is a crazily busy Argentinian tapas restaurant in fashionable Surry Hills, run by two talented chefs, Elvis and Ben. The emphasis is on sharing, and you can’t book, so arrive as near to 6pm as possible or you may have a lengthy wait in their lounge next door. Mains from $16. Glebe Point Diner 407 Glebe Point Rd, Glebe (00 61 2 9660 2646). Book well in advance at this unpretentious ﬁnd in Sydney’s emerging inner west.

The food is simple – roast chicken on sweetcorn-bread sauce for example – but out of this world. Mains from $16. SHOPPING Gould St, Bondi. This is home to Oz and NZ designers ‘Tuchuzy’, ‘From St Xavier’, and ‘Grandma Takes a Trip’ to name but three. Oxford St, Paddington. Browse the Paddington and Fringe Bar markets for a great range of handmade jewellery, organic snacks and artworks. Crown and Bourke Streets, Surry Hills. From the sassy attire found at Le Mistress and Wheels & Doll Baby, to the vintage sparkle of C’s Flashback, these two streets have independent labels all stitched up. KWT

TURKEY

Visit Istanbul

ASK THE LOCAL Muge Akat has spent the past 25 years working

By the waters, or on high with a view, Turkey’s former capital is the ideal weekend city, says Nick Redman Centuries before this city ever existed, there was that spectacular setting: Asian and European landmasses facing each other across the wide Bosphorus, and a cluster of bottle-green hills destined one day to bear great buildings, rather like Rome. The Istanbul we know today grew gradually, out of mythical origins: a Greek colonist, Byzas, founded Byzantium here around 655BC, after consultation with the oracle at Delphi, know-all of the ancient world. The outcome, 2,500 years or so on, is overwhelming – in every sense. Crowned with 58

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immense – intimidating – Ottoman mosques, honking with slow 21stcentury trafﬁc, creaking under the weight of new arrivals crowding in from poor regions south and east, Istanbul can certainly be in-yourface. Yet it’s also one of the most alluring cities in the world for a long, lazy weekend. And that appeal is still, after millennia, down to its outstanding geography: the heights and the waters. On a blue sky day the Bosphorus turns Medturquoise, beautifying the clapboard ﬁshing villages of pastel yellow and pink that line it (the effect, in places, more

reminiscent of an Italian lake than a mega-metropolis). WHERE TO STAY NO EXPENSE SPARED Four Seasons Hotel Istanbul At The Bosphorus, Ciragan Cad 28 (fourseasons.com). Special-occasion weekend? Spend it here: the water’s-edge location is a winner; the pool, cabanas and marble terrace make it feel like a leisurely resort; and the Four Seasons decor, which in some of its properties can be a bit frumpish, here is fresh and fashionable. Rooms from $800, room only.

as a specialist guide with Istanbul-based company Idee Travel Services... Guidebooks all recommend ﬁsh restaurants on the Bosphorus, which attracts tourists, but Barba Giritli (Abdulezzel Pasa Cad 3; 00 90 212 533 1866), on the more industrial Golden Horn, is one of the best, with views of the old city – try the marinated grilled octopus. Rüstem Pasha Mosque, near the Spice Market, is a hidden Ottoman treasure, with beautiful 16th-century Iznik tiles. In the Grand Bazaar, eat as locals do at Arslan (Vezirhan Cad 70; 00 90 212 513 7610): you’ll be among shopkeepers who demand a quality lunch. Close by is Caferaga Medresesi, a 16th-century school on Sogukcesme Sok: now a coffee shop, it makes a perfect break from tiring sightseeing. Park Hyatt IstanbulMaçka Palas Bronz Sok 4 (istanbul. park.hyatt.com). Ninety suites of coffeeand-creamy modernity (25 with their own Turkish baths) have been set within an Art Deco shell to create a

hotel that’s Japanesegenteel. The suave lounge is a hit with well-heeled shoppers in Nisantasi. Rooms from $600, room only. MIDDLE OF THE ROAD W Istanbul Süleyman Seba Cad 22

CONCIERGE ISTANBUL

Clockwise: Blue Mosque, Park Hyatt, W Hotel

(starwoodhotels.com). It was 2008’s most pushily trendy arrival (‘Welcome Agent’ = receptionist; room categories = ‘Wonderful’ to ‘Extreme Wow’). But the decor is nightclubbily cool and you won’t regret a coffee at the alfresco lounge. Rooms from $430, room only. Witt Istanbul Suites Defterdar Yokusu 26 (wittistanbul.com). All credit to Istanbul interiors company Autoban for creating a design hotel with no daft excess – just 17 rooms of pale modernism, warm

woods, top-ﬂoor city views and proximity to the nocturnal events off central Taksim Square. Rooms from $240, B&B. WHERE TO EAT NO EXPENSE SPARED Mikla Marmara Pera Hotel, Mesrutiyet Cad 167/185 (00 90 212 251 4646). The chef (Mehmet Gürs) drips charisma, the chrome/fabric interiors radiate cool, the mod-Med cooking is ‘catwalk’ (parades of swordﬁsh with chilli, sautéed spinach etc on oblong plates); and the view, 18 storeys up, is an aerial picture-

postcard of the city’s big sights. Mains from $30. Topaz Inönü Cad Omer Avni Mahallesi 50 (00 90 212 249 1001). The views of waters and far shores are the pull here, through fullheight panes opened in summer. Diners are well-pressed and the food is ﬁne – in an ‘international’ pasta/risotto/warmappetisers way. Mains from $20. MIDDLE OF THE ROAD Abracadabra Arnavutköy Cad 50/1, Arnavutköy (00 90 212 358 6087).

There’s the splendid shorefront setting, in a Frisco-style old clapboard house with balcony dining. And there’s Dilara’s food: ‘forgotten Turkish tastes and recipes’. Her lamb with hibiscus glaze is a one-off. Mains from $14. Komsu Vali Konagi Cad 2, Isik Apt 8B (00 90 212 224 9666). Age-old peasant recipes are reworked and updated at this 21st-century grill house in shoppy Nisantasi. Among the highlights: the mini lahmacun (ground-lamb pizzas).

SHOPPING Abdulla Halicilar Cad 62. The Grand Bazaar isn’t all tack, you know. The groomed mini-souk Abdulla stocks chunky olive-oil soaps from eastern Turkey, soft bathrobes in ﬁne rainbow-stripe, and pure white Turkish-cotton towels – so that’s your presents sorted. Egin Tekstil Yaglikcilar Cad 1. When you’ve done the above, head here. The hammam accessories (mitts, towels) are pale and simple: urbanbathroom-smart.

POLITE NOTICE: ‘Thank you’ goes a long way in Turkish, so say it: ‘tesekkür ederim’ (‘teh-sheh-kur ed-air-im’). SWEETIE DARLING: Turkish delight was invented in the 18th century, by one Bekir Effendi, who became Chief Imperial Confectioner – the Sultan was sick of hard candy. WHAT’S IN A NAME? Istanbul is said to derive from the Greek ‘eis teen polin’ (‘to the city’: a phrase common on ancient road signs). CAPITAL LOSS: The city hasn’t been the capital of Turkey since October 13, 1923, when Ankara stole the crown. KWT

WALES

Tenby Harbour, Right: St Brides Spa Hotel

Visit Pembrokeshire

Sandy coves, spooky castles – and saucy tapas. Wales is just as you remember it. Only better, says Josephine Davies… A breakaway ﬁnger of land reaches out from Wales’s southwest corner, penned in by the wild Irish Sea: Pembrokeshire, one of Britain’s most rugged corners, emanates a ﬁerce, edge-ofthe-world beauty as the year turns from gold to cold. Coves tranquil in summer work themselves into a froth, leaping at red cliffs speared by the odd lighthouse, while seabirds pirouette overhead. Sound like the backdrop to some tale of heated feelings, love and betrayal? It is – Keira Knightley strolled the sands near Tenby for scenes in the 60

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biopic of Welsh poet Dylan Thomas, The Edge of Love. Now is a spectacular time to be here – particularly when the wind drops, the sun comes out, and the sea has a soft-turquoise glow. Take a hat, scarf and brolly in case of rain, and motor off in search of centuries-old landmarks… WHERE TO STAY NO EXPENSE SPARED Penally Abbey Penally (penally-abbey. com). Like the country home of an eccentric aunt, Penally Abbey creaks with character. Comfortable rooms in the main house are

frilly and floral, while the adjacent lodge has had a modern makeover. Dinner is served in a turquoise dining room beneath chandeliers – try fillet steak with wild mushroom cream ($72 for the three-course set menu). The beach is a 10-minute stroll. Rooms from $292, B&B. St Brides Spa Hotel Saundersfoot (www. stbridesspahotel.com). St Brides exudes pareddown seaside style. Carved into cliffs, it has swoon-inducing views and rooms in sea-foam and dove-grey hues. The spa is a looker, too, with a hot infinity

ASK THE LOCAL Deborah Scale, a production manager, was born and bred in Pembrokeshire One of my favourite spots is the long beach of Freshwater West. It’s not good for swimming ~ (there are dangerous currents), but take a drive through the dunes and stop in one of the car parks for magniﬁcent views and a creamy Pembrokeshire Promise ice cream. Then follow the estuary inland to Creswell Quay, where you’ll ﬁnd the creeper-clad Cresselly Arms, a great place to watch the sun set. You’re guaranteed a warm welcome from the landlord, Maurice. If you’ve got kids, the best stretch of the Coastal Path is the (afternoonable) one between Solva and Newgale – lovely pubs at one end; big, beautiful beach at the other!

CONCIERGE PEMBROKESHIRE

Clockwise: Cefn-y-Dre , Looking north from Fishguard Fort

LITTLE WONDER: With a population of fewer than 2,000, St Davids is Britain’s smallest city. CELEB-SPOTTING: Christian Bale, Rhys Ifans and Duffy are all Pembrokeshire natives. LOCAL HEROES: The last invasion of Britain took place at Fishguard in 1797. French soldiers landed, only to be rounded up by locals carrying pitchforks. Cobbler’s wife Jemima Nicholas captured 12. FISHY BUSINESS: Seafood lovers should visit in June for ‘Fish Week’. Towns and villages along the coast host events including tastings, crab-catching, paella nights and snorkel safaris (www.pembrokeshireﬁshweek.co.uk). pool spilling into the bay below. The Cliff restaurant specialises in ﬁsh: try sea bass with artichoke purée ($38). Rooms from $280, B&B. MIDDLE OF THE ROAD Llys Meddyg East Street, Newport (llysmeddyg.com). This contemporary hotel in sleepy Newport (not the Welsh city of the same name) is really a restaurant with eight stylish rooms. These have sink-in beds and bathrooms stocked with Aveda potions. Dinner is a delight: venison with glazed vegetables and chestnut and rosemary mash. Mains from $36. Rooms from $180, B&B.

Cefn-y-Dre Country House Fishguard (cefnydre. co.uk). A 16th-century farmhouse, this B&B has cosy rooms – and a soundtrack of lowing cows from the nearby farm. The garden supplies ingredients for home-cooked meals: soup made from mushrooms sprouting wild on the lawn, lamb with carrots and potatoes. Rooms from $150, B&B. WHERE TO EAT NO EXPENSE SPARED Cwtch 22 High Street, St Davids (cwtchrestaurant.co.uk). Pronounced ‘cutsh’,

which means snug, this spot serves superb, organic fare. Opt for either one course ($33), two ($46) or three ($56), then choose dishes such as slow-roasted meat with salsa verde. Dinner only. Morgan’s Brasserie 20 Nun Street, St Davids (morgans-in-stdavids. co.uk). A cutesy exterior hides a modern, moodily-lit dining room with leather chairs, white walls and wood ﬂoors. Start with Caerfai cheese soufﬂé, but save room for banana and butterscotch crumble with ice cream. Mains from $34.

MIDDLE OF THE ROAD The Swan Inn Point Road, Little Haven (theswanlittlehaven. co.uk). Exposed brickwork, Coldplay on the music system, leather armchairs and a retro surfboard on the wall: this harbourside spot emanates gastro-chic, with meals to match. Favourites include salmon with crushed new potatoes and chive butter ($24). Stackpole Inn Jasons Corner, Stackpole (stackpoleinn. co.uk). Watch-your-head beams and vast inglenook ﬁreplaces make this a great

lunchtime lounge-about after rambles along the coastal path. Pick the Ploughman’s with homemade chutney and sticky toffee pud. Mains from $16. SHOPPING Haverfordwest Farmers’ Market Every other Friday, stalls line the riverside. Pick up crab pâté at Claws Shellﬁsh, and specialty sausages at Cig Lodor. Harbour Lights Gallery Porthgain (art2by.com). Arty prints sit side-byside with seascapes in oil in this absolutely delightful gallery. KWT

Feeling excited about your holiday? Check through our list of the most popular Kanoo Travel offices, find one near you and head down or call up to turn your getaway dreams into reality... BAHRAIN Abu Obeidah Avenue Wroad No. 302 Manama Tel. 17 576950 Mahooz Tel. 17 828754 Awali Branch Sitrah Avenue Road No. 4522 Awali Tel. 17 756487 Al Moayd Tower Manama Tel. 17 220220 Kanoo Holidays Mahooz Tel.17 828802 Kanoo Travel Refinery Tel. 17 755012 Airport Office Bahrain Tel. 17 321325 Egypt Air Manama Tel. 17 220747 Lufthansa Mahooz Tel. 17 828763 Air India Manama Tel. 17 220788 Cyprus Airways Manama Tel. 17 220 849 British Airways Manama Tel. 17 220701 Qantas / Jetabout Manama Tel. 17220743 Thai International Mahooz Tel. 17 828771 Air Canada / Austrian Airlines / Polish Olympic Airways / Sudan Airways / Sas / Swiss Int’l / Tunis Mahooz Tel. 17 828770

EGYPT Alexandria Booz Allen 1 Youssef El-Shazly Street Roushdy, Alexandria Tel. 002 03 5459265

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Alexandria 14 May Str, Sayadlia Building Symoha Tel. 020 03 424 1050 Aswan Abtal El-Tahrir Street Corniche El-Nil Tel. 002 097 2306983 Heliopolis Business Travel Centre 33 Nabil Elwakkad St Heliopolis Cairo Tel. 002 02 4130375/6 Cairo Halliburton C/O Halliburton Overseas Ltd Kilometer No 10 Land No 30 Ein Sokhna Road North Kattamia Cairo Tel. 002 02 27591690 Cairo 07 Dr. Kamal Hussin Heliopolis Cairo Tel. 002 02 26251307 Cairo Schlumberger C/O Schlumberger Zeiny Tower 25 Misr Helwan Road Maadi Tel. 002 02 7684700 Ext.. 1014 Cairo U.N.D.P C/O U.N.D.P., 4th Fl, World Trade Center 1191 Cornich El Nil Tel. 002 02 25804491 Cairo Kasr El Nil 15 Kasr El Nil Street Down Town Tel. 002 02 25747991 Cairo Nile Hilton Nile Hilton Hotel Down Town Tel. 002 02 25785001 Cairo 1 Wahib Doss Str. Ofﬁce No 9 Maadi Tel. 002 02 27513930 El Areesh Mfo C/O Mfo Northern Sinai Tel. 002 068 3502868 Luxor Winter Palace Hotel Tel. 002 095 2378333

FRANCE Foreign Exchange 11 Rue Scribe Paris 75009 Tel. +33 1 5300 9897 Foreign Exchange 11 Cours de I’Intendance Bordeaux 33000 Tel. +33 5 5600 6336 Bureau de Change Kanoo Printemps Dept. Store 64 Boulevard Haussmann 75009 PARIS Tel. +33 1 4282 4181

Umalquara Street Hayfer Makkah Tel. 02 544 7741 Kanoo Travel Sharaﬁya Tel. 02 643 9426 Kanoo Travel Taif Tel. 02 736 4211 Kanoo Travel Rabigh Tel. 02 423 2785

OMAN

Kanoo Travel Medinah Tel. 02 263 3040

Kanoo Travel LLC PO Box 75 114 Jibroo, Muscat Tel. +968 24700249

Air India Jeddah Tel. 02 668 0303 / 669 6571

QATAR

Gulf Air Jeddah Tel. 02 668 0303 / 669 6571 / 646

Old Al Hitmi Street Museum Street, Doha Tel. 04 441 3441 Conoco Phillips Salam Tower Al Corniche Street, Doha Tel. 04 443 7595

SAUDI ARABIA WESTERN PROVINCE Kanoo Centre Medina Road, Jeddah Tel. 02 661 4950 Bab Makkah Jeddah Tel. 02 644 9030 Bamaroof Centre Hail Street, Jeddah Tel. 02 653 0541

Singapore Airlines Jeddah Tel. 02 657 9898 Srilankan Airlines Jeddah Tel. 02 263 2959 Air Canada Jeddah Tel. 02 263 2996, Ext. 190 Kenyan Airways Jeddah Tel.02 263 2959 Ext. 108 Philippine Airways Jeddah Tel. 02 263 2959 Ext. 100 / 122

Khamis Abha Main Road Khamis Mushayat Tel. 07 222 3624

United Airlines Jeddah Tel. 02 263 3021 / 2959 Ext. 196 / 197

Prince Sultan Street Gizan Tel. 07 317 4285

EASTERN PROVINCE

Aboobacker Al Siddiq Street, Medina Tel. 04 823 9120

Airline Centre King Abdul Aziz Street Al Khobar Tel. 03 882 2206

Al Nawa Commercial Centre Al Sinnaiyat, Yanbu Tel. 04 321 3607

Kanoo Holidays, Retail Airline Centre, Khobar Tel. 03 882 2206 / 2601 / 2249

Albishar Commercial Centre King Abdulaziz Street Al Bahar, Yanbu Tel. 04 322 1087

Kanoo Holidays, Wholesale Airline Centre, Khobar Tel. 03 8821626 / 1851 / 8820161

Hertz Khobar Tel. 03 882 2005 / 5597

Dhahran Street Damman Tel. 03 833 7694

Airport Ofﬁce Dammam Tel. 03 883 2660 / 2660

King Khalid Street Khobar Tel. 03 864 7471

British Airways Khobar Tel. 03 882 2000 British Airways Dammam Tel. 03 835 5714 British Airways Jubail Tel. 03 362 1069 Air India Khobar Tel. 03 882 2478 Air India Jubail Tel. 03 362 3454 Qantas Khobar Tel. 03 882 3711 / 2467 United Airlines / Air Canada / Singapore Airlines / Swissair / Austrian Airlines Tel. 03 882 1518/ 2962 / 2602 / 03 882 4477 / 4442 / 4890 / 4533 Srilankan Airlines Khobar Tel. 03 882 2789 / 2675 / 2792 Gulf Air Khobar Tel. 03 896 8496 / 9393 / 8493

47th Street Rahima Tel. 03 667 0388 Al Quds Street Qatif Tel. 03 851 5009 City Centre Al Mahoob Buidling Hufuf Tel. 03 586 3823 Kanoo Building Corniche Road Jubail Tel. 03 362 2340 Municipal Street Al Khafji Tel. 03 766 0045 CENTRAL PROVINCE Kanoo Tower King Abdul Aziz Road Riyadh Tel. 01 477 2228 King Faisal Foundation Al Khairia Complex Riyadh Tel. 01 463 4454 Wazir Street Al Azizea Building Riyadh Tel. 01 411 4780

Gulf Air Dammam Tel.03 835 4194 / 4917 / 4952

Batha Riyadh Tel. 01 403 0368

Gulf Air Qatif Tel. 03 852 9384 / 854 5240

Al Kubaih Street Buraidah Tel. 06 325 0888

Gulf Air Rastanura Tel. 03 667 8041/ 7972 Gulf Air Hofuf Tel. 03 585 3358 / 4080 / 2252 Gulf Air Jubail Tel. 03 363 0982/ 84 / 85 /86 Kanoo Tower King Saud Street, Damman Tel. 03 833 9793

Airport Road Hail Tel. 06 543 0430 Sharjah Street Hotat Bani Tamim Al Hotah Tel. 01 555 0304 Silsilah Road Onaiza Al Qassim Tel. 06 362 0080 Main Street Al Khamseen Wadi Ad Dawasir Tel. 01 784 6500

CONCIERGE WHERE TO BOOK

THE MIDDLE EAST’S BIGGEST TRAVEL MAGAZINE

WIN

A LUXU RY ST DUBAAY AT I’S TH PALA - THE OLD CE E TOWN

JUNE 2009

THE MIDDLE EAST’S BIGGEST TRAVEL MAGAZINE

JULY 2009

TOTAL GUIDE

SUMMER LOVING

Take a gourmet tour of Croatia, ﬁnd a countryside hideaway in Turkey, and discover the coolest spa in Cyprus…

BANGKOK FOR BON VIVEURS BEGINNER’S BERLIN

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OFF-RADAR NEW YORK FIVE STAR TREKKING IN THE ANDES

Kanoo Travel Naseem Tel. 01 232 8519

Najda Street Abu Dhabi Tel. 02 678 0400

Air India Kanoo Tower, Riyadh Tel. 01 477 2228 Ext. 295 / 296

Kanoo Holidays Dubai Tel. 04 334 1444 / 315 6624

Gulf Air Olaya, Riyadh Tel. 01 461 0589 / 462 4902 United Airlines / Air Canada Kanoo Tower, Riyadh Tel. 01 477 2228 Ext. 289, 290 Qantas Kanoo Tower, Riyadh Tel. 01 477 2228 Ext. 288, 305 Srilankan Airlines Kanoo Tower, Riyadh Tel. 01 477 2228 Ext. 292 X 293 Philippine Airlines Kanoo Tower, Riyadh Tel. 01 477 2228 Ext. 237 X 238 Air India Buraidah Tel. 06 324 6514 / 325 0888 Gulf Air Hail. Tel. 06 532 0280 Gulf Air Buraidah Tel. 06 324 6514 / 325 0888 Singapore Airlines Kanoo Tower Tel. 4734102 / 4734103

UAE Jebel Ali LOB 16, Ground Floor Jebel Ali Free Zone Tel. 04 881 5050 Karama Al Fathooi Centre Dubai Tel. 04 334 1222 Kanoo Building Khalid Bin Al Waleed Street, Bur Dubai Tel. 04 507 2242 Dubai Internet City Building 12 Tel. 04 390 1992 Deira City Centre Dubai Tel. 04 294 1481

Marine Travel Services Dubai Tel. 04 335 1314 Airport Ofﬁce Dubai Tel. 04 393 1963 Kanoo Travel Corniche, Abu Dhabi Tel. 02 631 3900 / 631 8187

UK Birmingham American Express Bank House. 8 Cherry Street Tel. 0121 644 5514 / 0121 644 5560 Bournemouth American Express 95A Old Christchurch Road Tel. 0787 260 0528 / 01202 780 752 Brighton Amex House Implant American Express Ground Floor Amex House Edward Street Tel. 01273 525 041 / 040 Bristol American Express 74 Queens Road Tel. 01179 065 107 / 105 Cardiff American Express 3 Queen Street Tel. 02920 649 305 / 02920 649 301 Coventry American Express 5 Cathedral Lanes Shopping Centre Tel. 02 47 622 5511 / 0787 260 0528 Croydon American Express 2-4 High Street Tel. 0208 256 0808 / 0805 Edinburgh American Express 69 George Street 0131 718 2508 / 0131 718 2505

Kanoo Building Al Orouba Street, Sharjah Tel. 06 561 6058

Essex Lakeside Bureau American Express Lakeside Shopping Centre West Thurrock Way West Thurrock Grays Tel. 01708 890 654

Green Community Mall Jebel Ali Road Dubai Tel. 04 885 3321

Glasgow American Express 66 Gordon Street Tel. 0141 225 2905 / 0141 225 2908”

Kanoo Travel – American Express Hermitage Building Al Karama Tel. 04 334 9219

Guildford American Express 38-40 High Street Tel. 01483 551 607 / 01483 551 605

Leicester American Express 1 Horsefair Street Tel. 0116 242 1808 / 0116 242 1805 London Haymarket American Express 30 – 31 Haymarket Tel. 0207 484 9674 / 0207 484 9600

TAKING STOCKHOLM

A YEAR OF EVENTS IN SWEDEN’S COOLEST CITY SHORT-HOP BREAK

HEADING HOME TO THE BEAUTIFUL INDIAN OCEAN

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THE MIDDLE EAST’S BIGGEST TRAVEL MAGAZINE

bright 14 ideas for Eid

AUGUST 2009

INCLUDING...

London Kensington High St American Express 84 Kensington High Street Tel. 0207 795 6703 London Knightsbridge American Express 78 Brompton Road Tel. 0207 761 7908 / 7900, London American Express 1 Savoy Court The Strand Tel. 0207 240 1521 Milton Keynes American Express 670 Silbury Boulevard Tel. 01908 608 877 Manchester American Express 10-12 St Mary’s Gate Tel. 0161 833 7301 / 0161 833 7301 Nottingham American Express 2 Victoria Street Tel. 0115 924 7705 / 0115 924 7701 Plymouth American Express 139 Armada Tel. 01752 502 707 / 01752 502 702 Shefﬁeld American Express 20 Charles Street, Shefﬁeld Tel. 0114 263 9308 / 0114 263 9305 Southampton American Express 99 Above Bar Tel. 02380 716 808 / 805 York American Express 6 Stonegate Tel. 01904 676 505

OMAN

KATHMANDU

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THE MIDDLE EAST’S BIGGEST TRAVEL MAGAZINE SEPTEMBER 2009

CYPRUS THRILL

A GRAND TOUR OF THE MEDITERRANEAN GEM

BRAZIL NUTS

MASAI MARA

BHUTAN

EGYPT

FANTASTIC EVENTS FROM RIO TO BELEM

Korea Advice

Last minute Eid options

DISCOVERING THE JOYS OF BUSAN

Wizard in Oz

IT’S NOT TOO LATE TO BOOK A BREAK

12 MONTHS OF FUN DOWN UNDER

London Credit Swiss First Boston American Express Travel Ofﬁce C/O Credit Suisse One Cabot Square Canary Wharf Tel. 0207 888 4196 London Holborn Bureau American Express 156a Southampton Row Tel. 0787 260 0528 / 0207 837 4416

WIN

A LU STAY XURY WI TH TH MARR E GROUIOT KWT 6 T P

KWT 6 DUBAI SIGHTSEEING IN PRAGUE + FESTIVALS IN BEIRUT + RESTAURANTS IN DOHA + SHOPPING IN

Insider guides

TOTAL GUIDE

New Zealand

Locals’ tips on Madrid

Your total guide to blissful Kiwi experiences, from trout-fishing in Lake Tarawera to helicopter hiking on the Hump Ridge Track...

+ +

Cultural fun in Vilnius New Orleans bounces back

Insider guides

WHEEL ADVENTURE

CROSSING THE ICEFIELDS PARKWAY

TOTAL GUIDE

Greek Islands Will you pick Paxos, choose Chios, select Schinousa or opt for the Ionians? We’ve uncovered Greece’s finest holiday spots, from Agistri to Zakynthos…

WIN A luxury all-inclusive stay in Turkey at the Rixos Premium Belek KWT

Where to stay in Vienna

GO GLAMPING

+ +

Where to eat in Rome

THE WORLD’S MOST LUXURIOUS CAMPSITES

PLUS: CHECK OUT OUR NEW BUSINESS TRAVEL SECTION...

Where to shop in Kuala Lumpur

WIN A first class break in Dubai, courtesy of the Courtyard by Marriott KWT (see 6p8)

Did you know… KWT_cover2_august.indd 1

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That Kanoo World Traveller magazine has a BPAaudited circulation ﬁgure of

22,954

…and has the largest BPA-audited circulation in Saudi Arabia, reaching 14,460 readers in Riyadh, Jeddah and Damman? …and that the magazine also distributes 8,494 copies across the UAE, Bahrain and Oman? …reaching corporate clients as well as consumers, with distribution into companies such as BAE, GTS Aramco, Investcorp, Philip Morris, Ford Motors, IBC, Siemens and Sun Microsystems? To get involved with the magazine, contact Chris Capstick on +971 50 456 9938 / +971 4 369 0917 / chris@hotmediapublishing.com

* Issue of May 2008 KWT

CONCIERGE SUITE DREAMS

SUITE DREAMS REGINA HOTEL BAGLIONI, ROME

When you’re staying in a bustling metropolis like Rome, it’s vital that you have a tranquil base to escape to. Set in an art deco palazzo, the Regina Hotel Baglioni serves the purpose perfectly. Its Panoramic Suite is reﬁned and airy, with oodles of marble and Murano vases to give that überelegant touch – but it’s not just about the interior décor. During the odd moments when you’re not out enjoying the chic haunts on the Via Veneto or taking in the magniﬁcent Villa Borghese gardens, you’ll be surveying the surrounding rooftops from your Jacuzzi on the balcony. Life doesn’t get much better. www.baglionihotels.com

Why compromise you can have it all

Dusit Residence Dubai Marina is ideally located in the heart of Dubai Marina and provides direct access to the promenade and lifestyle hub of Dubai. Bringing balance to residence privacy and hotel-like convenience. Dusit Residence Dubai Marina offers a seamless transition across an international lifestyle. P.O. Box 212744, Dubai, United Arab Emirates, Reservations: Tel: +971 4 425 9999, E-mail: sales.dubaimarina@dusit.com Central Reservations: Tel: +66 (0) 2636 3353, E-mail: booking@dusit.com