the lock of love
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CHERISHED TIME rom February 9-20, 2016, The Dubai Mall plays host to Poetry of Time in homage to the artisans of Van Cleef & Arpels, as well as the captivating timepieces they have meticulously crafted. Flown in specifically for display are extraordinary pieces from the Maison’s museum in Paris, and now-iconic creations like the Cadenas, the idea for which legend attributes to The Duchess of Windsor and her illustrious love affair with King Edward VIII. The latest incarnations of this timepiece, on show in Dubai alongside the original design, serve to cement the Cadenas’ legendary status in the field of fine watchmaking. Mother Nature has proved an enduring muse to the Maison, the infinite ideas she sparks in the minds of its craftsmen translate beautifully into the most stunning timepieces, the most exquisite examples of which can be found in The Charms Extraordinaire Langage des Fleurs collection – look to the detailing; the miniature paintings, painstakingly applied by supremely skilled hands. The heritage of the Maison is captivating, its timepiece creations spellbinding in their intricacy, and its story continues to enchant - Poetry of Time also affords visitors the opportunity to view, for the first time in the Middle East, the finest novelties unveiled at SIHH 2016. More than an exhibition, Poetry of Time is a celebration of incredible craftsmanship, absolute beauty, and testament to Van Cleef & Arpel’s abiding appeal.
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CREATING THE IMPOSSIBLE How Van Cleef & Arpels’ master watchmakers forever push the boundaries
W Cleef & Arpels’ Place Vendôme
ithin the fabled confines of Van
Cadenas wristwatch in 1935. Since that iconic moment in the Maison’s history, address in Paris, a certain magic occurs the skills of the artisans have grown in a series of small, simple, low-lit rooms. ever-more extraordinary, their designs This is where innovation meets practical ever-more daring, and the standards they knowledge, where boundless ideas take set themselves ever-higher. form, where the impossible is beautifully Each timepiece represents a new made possible. challenge and, with it, a desire to For over a century, this is where the overcome it. In 2006, this desire led to Maison’s artisans have performed their Van Cleef & Arpels developing its own craft. The skill involved in their creations movement, Quantième de Saison, so that mastered over time, carefully passed the Maison’s poetic interpretation of time down through generations. is observed as faithfully as possible. It was Time waits for no man, that’s true, but followed by the 24-hour movement, which these craftsmen hold dear and capture the craftsmen used to tell a story – acted time’s very essence, encapsulating it in out on the rotating dial – which takes creations of such rare beauty that to label place over the course of an entire day. them as mere timepieces would be to fall A further movement, The Retrograde, spectacularly short of an apt description - allows the hands to dance, almost, across what they portray, is the poetry of time. the dial, bringing characters to life. The blissful union of masterful Numerous techniques are applied watchmaking and jewellery savoir-faire during the making of a timepiece, with first occurred with the making of the the age-old art of enameling bought to 4
the fore, the various forms of it utilised to add light, texture and depth to a dial. To create enchanting landscapes, stones are often added – from semi-precious through to hard – each one meticulously engraved, polished, and finally set as part of a mosaic. While the absolute precision and delicacy required to use motherof-pearl, so soft a material, or to paint a wonderfully detailed miniature in a space as confined as a watch dial, show that the craftsmen housed at 22 Place Vendôme are without equal in their field. The timepieces they create are forever testament to that fact.
This page: The making of Lady Arpels Oiseaux Enchantees Š Johann Sauty
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the lock of love Adoration, elegance and finesse, entwined in an icon
V poetry of time; the Cadenas watch an Cleef & Arpels is driven by the
is poetry in motion. In 1935, the Maison created a design that would prove to stand the test of time yet was very much a reflection of its age – an age of radical inventions, new technologies and modern art movements. But it was also an age when it was deemed inelegant for a lady to wear a watch. Appearing to look as though a bracelet alone, the Cadenas remedied this; its discreet dial only visible to the wearer. A marriage of beauty and functionality, the Cadenas is revered as a symbol of love, union and attachment; bold, pure, perennially contemporary with timeless elegance. It is truly emblematic of the Maison as whole. This is not only a timepiece that has wowed upon the wrists of aristocrats and royalty; at exhibitions, the watch has commanded the spotlight in appreciation of its majesty, and collectors have clamoured for the most-desired iterations of the Cadenas at auction. As legend has it, the idea for the Cadenas timepiece was born of the friendship between the Duchess of Windsor (American-born Wallace 6
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The new interpretations of the Cadenas allure and inspire
Previous page: Cadenas Watch; Cadenas Pavée. This page, clockwise from left: Duchess of Windsor, the original Cadenas
Simpson, a lady renowned for her elegance for whom King Edward VIII abdicated his throne to marry in 1937, solemnising a relationship widely considered to be amongst the greatest love stories of the twentieth century) and Van Cleef & Arpels’ Artistic Director Renée Puissant, daughter of the founding couple of the Maison, Alfred Van Cleef and Estelle Arpels. Subsequently, the most famous Cadenas piece of all – platinum and diamond-set, on a double snake chain – was gifted to the Duchess by the Duke in 1936. It would later sell at Sotheby’s in 2011 for CHF362,500. At last year’s SIHH in Geneva, the rebirth of this iconic timepiece was announced. Artistic and functional, the quartz-movement Cadenas can be worn as a bracelet, and each design element exudes beauty: the straight lines of the case are complimented by a rounded, padlock-inspired attachment. Over the 80-year reign of this status-symbol timepiece, craftsmen in Place Vendôme have perfected every detail; modern-day revisions for added ease of telling time include the incorporation of an enlarged inclined dial and hour markers, while ceramic beads inside the clasp ensure a confident fastening. Yes, it is a link to the storied history of the Maison, but a longing glance at the treasures in the new collection – nine in total – reveals how this piece of effortless elegance truly belongs in the present day. The watch surface is a canvas for expression, for portraying
simple elegance in white gold, distinction through serti neige snow-set diamonds, or soft femininity with pink sapphires, part of a triumvirate of inspired styles from which to choose. On each exists a hidden, polished clasp-side which lends space for a discreet personalised engraving. Two models faithful to the original form of the Cadenas – their impactful, clean design to the fore – are offered in yellow gold, with a double snake chain bracelet or alligator strap. Four models of the Cadenas Sertie are available in yellow or white gold, and can be graced with the Bracelet Or – an elegant double snake chain, present on the historic original, with the distinctive hoop-shaped attachment – or the alligator bracelet. Diamonds, in serti neige arrangement, adorn the upper surface of the case and a thin, handsome strip across the strap. With a more jewellery-inclined personality, the sparkling Cadenas Pavée catches the eye with three editions. The upper portion of the case has stunning princess-cut diamonds, with the case, clasp and dial accentuated with round diamonds and the finishing touch of a white gold bracelet. An aesthetic standout is the Saphirs Roses version of the Pavée, with its gradation of pink sapphire in harmony with pink gold and diamonds. These new interpretations both allure and inspire, demonstrating the Cadenas’ timeless appeal. Those who own one are assured of possessing a remarkable piece of crafted beauty. 9
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ENCHANTING NATURE Mother Nature, the muse of the Maison
T us evokes awe at every turn. The he majesty of the world around
place what amounts to an artistic ‘stilllife’; a millimetres-wide masterpiece. rhythm of life hums along with its For example, at just 25mm in diameter, symphony. Yet to truly appreciate its the yellow gold Charms Extraordinaire delicate balance and beauty, one must pay Espérance shows that some of the best attention to the fine details. To capture things come in small packages. The this sense of wonder has been the fuel for bezel, dial and case are set with stunning Van Cleef & Arpels throughout its history, gems such as garnets, yellow sapphires, with timepieces that are frequently diamonds and spessartite garnets, which enriched with positivity by drawing upon bring an equally fascinating summer the natural world and its seasons as a narrative to life. White mother-of-pearl creative muse. provides depth to the scene, in which a This emotional design ethos is no cabochonné enamel buttercup symbolises better embodied than in the intricate, beauty, a daffodil represents ‘true love’s luxurious and limited edition Charms desire’, with a cool-season chickweed Extraordinaire Langage des Fleurs illustrating the optimism and hope of this collection. Across the individuallyseasonal convergence. numbered range, interchangeable shiny An accompanying buttercup charm has alligator bracelet straps securely keep in petals fashioned from yellow sapphires,
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VAN CLEEF & ARPELS Previous page: Charms Extraordinaire Armour. This page, clockwise from right: Lady Arpels Cardinal Carmin; Lady Arpels Oiseau de Paradis; Lady Arpels Coccinelle
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Delicate beauty tiptoes through the collection... with spessartite garnets taking the form of the pistil. The Charms Extraordinaire Armour exudes adoration in pink gold with wallflower, forget-me-not, and cyclamen, which represent memory, beauty and lasting sentiments. An evocative red, shiny alligator bracelet has a pink and gold pin buckled with diamonds, while onwatch enhancements encompass a pearshaped pink sapphire as the cyclamen bud and yellow sapphires, mother-of-pearl, and spessartite garnet. The thrill and intrigue of new romance is depicted in the Charms Extraordinaire DĂŠsir, with its symbolic miniature painting of lilac and crocuses in bloom, captured with exceptional cabochonnĂŠ enamel work. 32mm in diameter, the white gold case has a bezel set with diamonds, pink and purple sapphires, amethysts, a white gold rotating charm and an emblematic flower engraved into the case back. In the two newest Poetic Complications, one can appreciate beauty at all levels. The 38mm Lady Arpels Jour Nuit Oiseaux de Paradis reveals a diamond moon at night-time, and when dawn arrives, the scene changes to a sparkling bird of paradise landing upon its flower namesake. This poetic cycle of day and 13
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night, sun and moon, is depicted using sculpted and engraved gold on the underdial and dial respectively, with diamonds adding the requisite frosting. The case back tells the story of the dial through motifs engraved in gold. The strap itself is also a sight to behold, in navy blue with a white gold pin buckle, set with diamonds. Delicate beauty tiptoes through the Van Cleef & Arpels’ collections, and the fragile yet symbolically-lucky ladybird takes centre stage in the Lady Arpels Jour Nuit Coccinelles timepiece. A 38mm white gold case with diamond-set bezel harbours a scene where two of the spotted critters sit atop four-leafed clovers, with the sun and moon watching over their leafy adventure. The over-dial boasts champlevé enamel, sculpted gold and diamonds. Exclusive technology lies within too… a self-winding mechanical movement with 24-hour module was developed especially for the Maison. As the artisans of Van Cleef & Arpels say about the breathtaking ensemble on show in Dubai, within this animated world, time slips by peacefully, as you would expect, when being inspired by the ebbs and flows of nature. 14
Within this animated world, time slips by peacefully
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This page, from far left: The savoir faire required to create Poetic Complications; The attention to detail involved in the making of the Lady Arpels Oiseaux Enchantees Š Johann Sauty
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VAN CLEEF & ARPELS This page, right to left: Lady Jour des Fleurs; Lady Arpels Ronde des Papillons; Lady Arpels Jour Nuit Fée Ondine. Next page: Midnight Nuit Lumineuse
...AND TIME TICKS ON, POETICALLY At SIHH 2016, the Maison unveiled its newest Poetic Complications
E drawn from Mother Nature continues
ver the muse, the limitless inspiration
to guide the hands of the Maison’s master watchmakers. Last month’s SIHH 2016 was the stage for them to showcase their technical prowess, this year’s innovations raising the bar once again. The graceful flight of the butterfly takes centre stage in a headline addition to the Poetic Complications Collection, the Lady Arpels Ronde des Papillons. On a dial featuring mother-of-pearl clouds in varying grey tones, set against sky-hued mother of pearl, butterflies, three in all, their resplendent colours the result of miniature painting, take turns to appear between the clouds, measuring the minutes. The hours, meanwhile, are indicated by a swallow, engraved in white gold, which tips its wing at the twelve consecutive hours before taking flight to its starting position. Yet this is a dial that offers further wonder and surprise – at the push of a button, all three butterflies flutter around the clouds in an animation which lasts thirteen seconds, time accounted for once the butterflies assume
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their normal rhythmic interchange. This impossibly complex feat is made possible by a brand new movement exclusive to the Maison, featuring retrograde hours, variable speed minutes and animation on demand. Two further additions to the Poetic Complications Collection are the Lady Jour des Fleurs and Lady Nuit des Papillons timepieces, the Maison’s high jewellery expertise brought to bear on both. The former depicts the changing seasons, translated via shimmering foliage, its hues – painstakingly created from spessartite and tsavorite garnets, yellow and pink sapphires and spinels -
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Mother Nature continues to guide the Maison’s master watchmakers
moving from spring-like yellow and green to autumnal orange and red. Beneath the dial, a rotating disk makes two complete turns each day to create an ever-changing scene, flora in perpetual renewal. The same disk is present within the Lady Nuit des Papillons watch, where it’s used to capture the beauty of butterflies glittering in flight, the scene evolving and mesmerising from hour to hour. Available on an alligator bracelet, which holds secure a 33mm case in white gold and diamonds, both of these exceptional pieces can also be accompanied by a reamarkable jeweled bracelet. The enchanting scenes played out across 24 hours on the dial of the Lady 18
Arpels Jour Nuit Fée Ondine timepiece depict the fairy Ondine – recalling the Maison’s feminine figures created in the 1940s – who, while sat on a lillypad aside cooling waters, sees the sun move above her from dawn through to dusk, before it disappears and is replaced by a shimmering moon. The craft used to create the dial is extraordinary. The fairy Ondine in gold and rose-cut diamond; the petals, pistils and leaf on which Ondine sits the result of Champlevé enamel, miniature painting, and delicate stone-setting - tsavorite garnets of intense green, pink sapphires and yellowy-orange spessartite garnets. With the Midnight Nuit Lumineuse watch, Van Cleef & Arpels pays homage to astronomy and the wonders of the universe. Here, the Maison’s craftsmen set themselves the task of illuminating the heavens present on the dial - traced out in white miniature painting – in a mechanical way. To achieve their aim, the craftsmen took inspiration from piezoelectricity, a term which refers to the ability of certain materials to accumulate an electric charge when they are subjected to mechanical stress. It was first studied in the 18th century and now used for the first time in the Poetic Complications collection. And so, the Midnight Nuit Lumineuse features a ceramic strip which, when caused to vibrate by the movement, mechanically generates electrical energy. This energy – on the wearer’s demand – then backlights six diamonds on the dial, which in turn illuminate the outline of a Unicorn, the mythical creature that first fuelled the Maison’s imagination during the 1970s. Further to their technical innovations and artistic mastery, these Poetic Complications convey precious moments of emotion, and form an integral part of Van Cleef & Arpels’ imagination.