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World Traveller // We Love Turkey
2014 / 2015
welcome to
TURKEY There are endless reasons to fall in love with Turkey – its unparalleled cuisine, beautiful scenery, perfect climate and rich history are just a few – but for us, the most magical thing about Turkey is that it is truly a bridge between worlds. To one side of the country you have the rugged beauty of the Middle East, and on the other you discover luxurious central Europe. Turkey mixes all Ì iÃi yÕi ViÃ Ì }iÌ iÀ Ì VÀi>Ìi one irresistible package that will draw you back again and again.
CONTENTS 2 / Essentials 4 / Inner Anatolia 6 / Black Sea Region 8 / East & South Anatolia 10 / Mediterranean Region 12 / Aegean Region 14 / Marmara
About the guide The We Love Turkey team are the cream of travel writers who have kept their noses to the ground, region by region, to discover hidden delights off the beaten track. 1
Managing Director
Business Development
Editor
Features Editor
Designer & Illustrator
To contact any of the
Victoria Thatcher
Director
Tracey Scott
Lara Brunt
Andy Knappett
team, email firstname@
Deputy Editor
Senior Designer
Production Manager
Richard Jenkins
Adam Sneade
Chalitha Fernando
Editorial Director
John Thatcher
Jason Brown
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The
ESSENTIALS All you need to know
Getting there /ÕÀ à Ƃ À ià y ià ` ÀiVÌ Þ vÀ
ÕL> Ì ÃÌ> LÕ ÌÜ Vi > `>Þ] > ` there is a large network of internal y } ÌÃ Ì Ì> i Þ Õ > ÛiÀ Ì i V Õ ÌÀÞ° / L > y } Ì Ì ÃÌ> LÕ ] contact dnata on +971 4 316 6666, or visit dnatatravel.com
Marmara
Visas For most nationalities, you do not need a special visa form to enter Turkey. Visitors with a UAE passport can enter Turkey and stay simply with a valid passport. For a list of nationalities that need a visa to enter /ÕÀ iÞ] Û Ã Ì ÃÌ> LÕ > À« ÀÌ° v °
Getting around ƂÌ ÇnÎ]äää õÕ>Ài iÌÀià à i Ì Àii Ì iÃ Ì i à âi v Ì i 1 ®] /ÕÀ iÞ Ü ÀiµÕ Ài à i v ÀÜ>À` « > } v Þ Õ Ìi ` Ì ÌÀ>Ûi LiÌÜii Ài} ð ÌiÀ > y } Ìà >Ài >Û> >L i through Turkish Airlines, and all airports have car rental facilities. >V V ÌÞ >à ÌÃ Ü LiÃÌ iÌ `à of traversal (or you can take a ferry along the Bosphorus), and taxis are generally the easiest way of moving >À Õ `° / >Ì Ã> `] «ÕL V ÌÀ> ë ÀÌ /ÕÀ iÞ Ã V i> ] `iÀ > ` Ài >L i° ÃÌ> LÕ ½Ã Õ `iÀ}À Õ ` iÌÀ ÃÞÃÌi has just four lines that cover all of the most important areas of the city.
Black Sea
Eastern Anatolia Central Anatolia
Aegean
Southern Anatolia
Mediterranean
TALKING POINTS Make sure you brush up on your local knowledge before your trip 2
Although Turkey sits in two continents (Asia and Europe) and has a decidedly European feel, a whopping 97 per cent of it is actually on Asian soil. As well as this, Ìà vwV > Ì Ì i à / i ,i«ÕL V v /ÕÀ iÞ] > ` >à Lii since 1923. Turkey doesn’t use the Euro as a currency – it uses the Turkish Lira. At the time of writing, one Turkish Lira equated to Dhs1.64. Introduction
iV>ÕÃi v Ìà >}Àii>L i V >Ìi > ` «iÀviVÌ Ã ] Turkey is a huge exporter of food. In fact, the country is Àië à L i v À nä «iÀ Vi Ì v Ì i >âi ÕÌ iÝ« ÀÌà v À the entire world.
Ài v À >Ì /ÕÀ Ã Ì ÕÀ Ã > ` « > } > Û Ã Ì V> Li v Õ ` >Ì } ÌÕÀ iÞ°V
World Traveller // We Love Turkey
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Turkey
IN NUMBERS
/ i Õ LiÀ v iÌÀià v ÃÌÕ } V >ÃÌ i v Õ ` /ÕÀ iÞ
/ i i } Ì iÌÀià v Õ Ì ƂÀ>À>Ì] /ÕÀ i޽à } iÃÌ «i> ° / i Ü À `½Ã } iÃÌ Õ Ì> ] ÛiÀiÃÌ] ÃÌ> `à >Ì n]n{n
Amount of private museums in Turkey
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The age in years of the national delicacy, Turkish Delight
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This page, top to bottom: The Ataturk Mausoleum; Whirling Dervishes at the Dervishes Festival in Konya. Opposite page: Göreme; Hotair balloon aerial view of Cappadocia; Statues at the Ataturk Mausoleum.
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INNER ANATOLIA
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Activities The capital of Turkey is not Istanbul. It is, of course, Ankara, found in the Inner Anatolia region. The city has a cool, young vibe that is helped by the large student population, but there are still plenty of upscale shops and restaurants to enjoy. For culture, Anıtkabir in the city centre is the mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk, the leader of the Turkish War of Independence and the founder and first President of the Republic of Turkey. It’s a fascinating insight into the creation of a country. The most famous part of Inner Anatolia is surely the epic Cappadocia region, which is dotted with otherworldly rock formations that take the breath away. Intrepid holidaymakers can even spend a night inside the rocks at the Kelebek Cave Hotel (kelebekhotel.com). In Konya, the Whirling Dervishes (or Mevlevi Order, to give them their official name) are world-famous. Their spellbinding worship service involves the participants whirling ecstatically, in long white dresses, for a quarter Inner Anatolia Region
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of an hour at a time. Ask your hotel concierge the best place to book a Rumi Tour for a chance to see this display in person.
Hotels If you’d rather stay five-star in the city than rock-face in Cappadocia, there are plenty of stunning hotel locations to try. The Rixos Konya (konya.rixos. com) has a wonderful location in the centre of the region, and offers 278 rooms and suites with stunning country views. And like every Rixos hotel, the entertainment is secondto-none. Singers, dancers and parties are lavishly laid on each night for the pleasure of the guests. The JW Marriott Hotel Ankara (jwmarriott-ankara.com) is favoured by royals and dignitaries, and is in the heart of Ankara’s business and government hub. It has some of the best views of the city, best taken in from the Skye Vue bar on the 22nd floor. Part of the luxurious Cornucopia Hotel Collection, the Divan Çukurhan, Ankara (divan.com.tr) is a stunning boutique hotel next to the picturesque Ankara Citadel. It is one of the most historic hotels in the city, and its brick and stone façade, wooden planks and bays and tiled roof were put in place in the late 16th century, when it functioned as a typical Ottoman city inn/marketplace, trading in the city’s famous mohair (the old name for Ankara was Angora – the type of wool).
Restaurants Goksu restaurant is an Ankara institution. Found halfway down the Bayindir Sok, the international cuisine has a reputation for getting diners in for dinner – then bringing them back for breakfast and lunch the next day to see what the chefs can cook up.
Hot for 2015
ANK AR A CASTLE This fortification has stood for so long that its exact age is unknown – but it has been exchanging hands, like a castle in Game of Thrones, since 1073. The castle overlooks the ancient city of Ankara and its citadels and towers are definitely worth searching out.
Famed for its fish dishes, the fish soup is highly recommended along with many other Turkish delicacies, inspired by the friendly restaurant owners. In Cappadocia, make your way to Ürgüp where locals will point you towards Ziggy Café & Restaurant. The atmosphere is more friendly than fine-dining, but the level of ability in the kitchen is truly wonderful. The Shepherd’s Salad is a riot of colour and flavour, and the ember-grilled aubergines are truly magical. In Avanos, a hip new restaurant has recently opened called Mado. It sits on the bank of the Kızılırmak river, and is the perfect place to while away an afternoon with an ice cream or a freshly ground coffee. The views of the river and the Avanos mosque beyond make Mado a really memorable spot to grab a bite to eat.
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Activities The Black Sea region is one of the most popular for travellers from the Middle East, as its lush greenery is a world away from the deserts of Dubai. Deep in the mountainous forests of Trabzon is the Sumela Monastery. Founded in 386AD inside what is now known as Altındere National Park, Trabzon can be easily viewed as part of a Black Sea Cruise. Learn a little more about the history of the region at the Sinop Archaeology Museum, which is packed with ancient treasures excavated from the surroundings like earthenware, vases, spearheads and even Bronze Age jewellery. There’s even a shipwreck found in the Black Sea that will really get kids’ imaginations going. As you make your way from Sinop towards the Byzantine/Genoese harbour of Amasra you’ll find plenty of deserted beaches and attractive villages. The Black Sea in this region is unique in that it is diminished not by evaporation, but strong currents whisking it through the Bosphorus and the Dardanelles. Near the surface, the salinity of the water is so low you could drink it – but pollution may mean it’s best not to try.
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Hotels The Dedeman Hotel & Resort in Zonguldak (dedeman.com) is the first five-star hotel in the area. Located right on the seaside, it also houses four restaurants, two swimming pools and a terrific fitness centre with sea views. In Trabzon, the Hotel Novotel Trabzon (novotel.com) is the most popular choice, as it’s just eight minutes from the heart of the city and has the feel of a self-contained resort with tennis courts, Turkish Black Sea Region
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BLACK SEA REGION
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– the ocean haddock dish is baked to perfection on the outside and perfectly tender to cut. Its best selling point is perhaps its location, right next to an ancient armoury. The Galanima (galanima.com.tr) has recently been taken over by new management and brings a brandnew concept to the diner. Live trout picked by the diner on site, meat and saunas, heated pool and the fantastic meatballs cooked on the urn fireplace international restaurant Novist. Also and the general home-style ambience in Trabzon, the luxurious Zorlu Grand make this restaurant a big hit. The Hotel (zorlugrand.com) is right in restaurant also happens to have a the heart of the old city, and the huge garden environment which is magnificent star-shaped fountain in delightful to walk around before or the hotel lobby sums up the oldafter a meal, and it even has a kids’ school glamour found in the rest of playground for younger diners. the property. Finally, Sahil Balik Restoran With the deep blue water of (amasrasahil.com) in Amasra has Lake Abant on one side and the what might be the most relaxing sea green forest on the other, escape views on the Black Sea Coast, and to the heart of nature at the Taksim the fresh fish it serves is second-toInternational Abant Palace none. Make sure to grab a table on (taksimotelcilik.com.tr). A deluxe the roof terrace and enjoy the sunset experience in a rugged location, this with your food. is exactly what you need if you’re looking for the Turkish experience without leaving the comforts of home behind. Abant enjoys distinct seasons, and over the winter months the lake is frozen over and covered in snow, yet when the spring comes the ice melts away to reveal water lilies on the surface of the lake – a magical time to visit.
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Clockwise from left: Amasra; Sumela monastery, Trabzon; Sinop Province.
Restaurants Try incredible seafood at the welcoming Cemilusta (cemilusta. com.tr), where quality is proven by the amount of local families you will see flocking to its tables for the fish and köfte house specials. And of course no meal in Turkey can be finished without some baklava to tempt the palate – Cemilusta’s is among the best in the country. Cephanelik (cephanelik.com.tr) in the Boztepe District serves a fantastic selection of steaks, chops and other cuts of meat, as well as fresh fish
Hot for 2015
THE AY DER PLATEAU The Ayder Plateau in Rize, in the northeast of the region, is the perfect summingup of the Black Sea area as a whole. It’s a picture-perfect valley that was once used as a camping base for hikers, but is now a beautiful destination in its own right.
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EAST & SOUTH ANATOLIA Activities East and South Anatolia are the most “Middle Eastern” areas of Turkey, but they are still nothing like the Middle East. With “off-the-beaten-track” holidays becoming more and more popular, these regions are beginning to see more travellers passing through. And it’s good for them if they do, because there are many wonders to behold. The summit of Mount Nemrut is an absolute must-see, and not just because of the incredible view. There is a fascinating row of enormous stone heads, similar to those found on Easter Island. Eagles, lions and other sculpted characters are there too, guarding the tomb of King Antiochus, buried over 2,000 years ago. The city of Mardin stands on a rocky hill near the Tigris River, and is worth visiting, along with similar-sized towns Diyarbakir and Gaziantep.
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Alternatively, Sivas is one of the oldest cities in Turkey and is famous for its thermal spas, which many believe to have healing properties. Hot for 2015 Hotels On the very slopes of Mount Nemrut is the Nemrut Kervansaray hotel (nemrutkervansary.com), which is the perfect base from which to explore the fascinating area of Mount Nemrut. The low-slung building has a rustic appeal and a swimming pool, and its large grounds also allow campers to set up for the night en route up the mountain. In the city of Mardin, book a night Here, the locals will share a drink with at the historic Kasr-ı Nehroz hotel you and tell you about the history of (hotelnehroz.com). The building has their people, who have lived there for stood tall over the last 1,600 years hundreds of years. of the city’s history, and its imposing The ancient city of Hasankeyf has archways and courtyards are sure to made news recently, as its brand-new leave an impression. The à la carte hydroelectric dam is threatening to restaurant is worth a visit even if you damage the thousands of humandon’t spend the night. made caves which date back to the Also in Mardin, the Artuklu earliest times of the city’s occupation Kervansaray (artuklu.com) offers – so if you want to visit the city in real Turkish hospitality that is so all its ancient glory, head there now. gratifying, even the country’s president once made a visit. The boxy, solid architecture is a throwback to the city’s history, when structures Clockwise from top were made to last – and this one has, left: Mardin; Sehidiye for hundreds of years overlooking the mosque minaret, Mesopotamian plains. One thing to Mardin; Sehidiye bear in mind though: if you need a lot mosque minaret, of space, this hotel might not be for Mardin; Archeological you. The rooms, while charming, are site of Nemrut Dagi. on the cosy side.
VAN PROV INCE Head to Van Province for a traditional Van breakfast. Found between Lake Van and the Iranian border, the town has gone breakfastcrazy, with dozens of restaurants specialising in the morning meal – which can stretch on to lunchtime…
as you want. The latter has a capacity of just 100 diners, and prominent local and international cuisine dishes are provided a la carte and with table service. Visit the Cercis Murat Konai (cercistmurat.com), set up in 2001 to provide locals and tourists alike with the finest of dishes using delicate flavours of cinnamon, coriander, ginger, sumac and almonds to create perfectly spiced dishes. The final must-dine in Mardin is Bagdadi (mardinbagdadi.com) where thousands of years of culture from Turkey to Baghdad is distilled in the Restaurants mountain city to stun diners. The Found inside the Mardin Erdoba story of the restaurant, which the Elegance Hotel, Mardin’s first and owners are only too happy to tell, is a only five-star hotel, are two superb fascinating one and gives you a new restaurants – the Zinner Restaurant understanding of how Turkey came to and the Ferdowski Restaurant. The be. The menu is heavy with delicious former has capacity for 250 people meats, breads and sauces – perfect inside and 75 on the outdoor terrace for carnivores, although those with and provides a five-star buffet where lighter appetites are also catered to you can enjoy as much Turkish cuisine with pasta and salad dishes.
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MEDITERR ANEAN REGION
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of cascades in Antalya’s tranquil municipal park. When visiting the Activities upper falls, there’s a spiral staircase The southern part of Turkey is one the leads into a cave behind the of the most popular, with its myriad waterfalls for spectacular views. beaches and resorts, and of course The antique city of Phaselis is one Antalya, one of the world’s most of those places that, when you return beautiful cities. The symbol of Antalya home, you’ll immediately start looking is the fluted 13th-century minaret of at house prices. Steep mountains Yivli Minare. It’s not hard to spot – behind the town and a stunning its great height means it’s visible from promontory on the beach make it a almost anywhere in the city. Just beautiful spot to walk around, and 50km east of the city is the historic it’s almost two holiday destinations region of Aspendos, which boasts in one – the white sandy beaches are a Roman theatre built in 162AD that great to relax, and the Roman theatre, has been kept in such good repair baths and aqueducts will satisfy that performances are still staged those with a craving to explore. there today. While in Antalya, do not The ruins of Mount Olympos miss the Düden Waterfalls, a series are worth exploring, and at a cost Mediterranean Region
of just five Lira to enter, represents extremely good value for a day of exploring. Thrill-seekers can even paraglide from the area, but don’t forget to book prior to your visit. The best part of your trip here? Once you’ve satisfied your curiosity for history, you can just chill out on Cirali Beach and watch the world go by.
Hotels Despite there being so much on offer in Antalya, a stay at the Rixos Sungate (rixos.com) is tempting enough with its own beaches, pools, marina, amphitheatre, waterpark and spa to make you want to stay at the
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wellness centre offers traditional Turkish relaxation treatments including hot stone massages that will make you feel like new. Hot for 2015
GOLF Golfing in Turkey is becoming bigger and bigger, and the Belek region is home to several terrific courses, each with luxurious hotels attached. For a weekend away swinging clubs, this should be on your list of places to try.
resort for your entire trip. Get a slice of luxury at the Tuvana Hotel, (tuvanahotel.com), where Ottoman styling mixes with 21st-century luxury to make an award-winning service. With just 46 fabulously appointed rooms, the Tuvana is the hotel version of the “Paradise on Earth” that The King of Bergama, Attalos II, ordered his soldiers to find when Antalya was discovered. On the edge of the old town of Antalya lies the Elegance East Hotel, (eleganceeasthotel.com), one of the city’s most stylish and exclusive. This is a peaceful, relaxed hotel where your needs are met by the dedicated staff. For slightly older explorers or ones without kids, this is the perfect base from which to explore all that Antalya has to offer. In Alanya, the Saphir Resort & Spa (hotelsaphir.com) has stunning manicured grounds snaking around the spacious pools, and the spa and
Restaurants Built by Italians in the late 19th century, Club Arma in Antalya (clubarma.com.tr) has wonderful views over the old city and the marina. The fusion of Italian and Turkish styles moves from the architecture of the building, down to the menu itself – with fresh fish, a variety of meats and a wide range of Mediterranean dishes on offer. The Vanilla Lounge (vanillaantalya. com) is located just five minutes away from one of Antalya’s landmarks, Hadrian’s Gate. The ambience can be enjoyed with a cocktail while the British chef (who runs the restaurant with his Turkish wife) cooks up a storm of international cuisine using
Steep mountains behind the town make it a beautiful spot to walk around quirky ingredients like pumpkin, coconut and lemon grass. There are a number of fine-dining restaurants to be found in Turkey, and Seraser (seraserrestaurant.com) is certainly one of them. Billed as a “luxury boutique” eatery, Seraser has a fascinating ethos that extends beyond taste – it aims to push the boundaries of seeing, touching, smelling and even hearing your food. It’s definitely one to try for those looking for an extraordinary meal. In Alanya, the Elite Restaurant (elitealanya.net) is a real authentic Turkish experience. Sizzling meat skewers, fillet steak with butter and Izgara Pirzola-grilled lamb chops are some of the highlights of an impressively meat-filled menu.
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Activities This area is what most people imagine when they think of Turkey. Its beautiful scenery is matched only by the sheer amount of things to see and do. Number one on the checklist is Oludeniz, one of Turkey’s most recognisable spots. Its private lagoon beach has waters that cover the entire spectrum of blue, taking the breath away. You’ll also recognise Pamukkale, Turkey’s equivalent of the White Cliffs of Dover. Their name literally translates to “cotton castle”, and the ledges shoot up from the thermal waters of Hierapolis to a height of 200 metres. The biggest city in the region, and the third biggest in Turkey, is Izmir. It has almost 3,500 years of recorded history and one of the most prosperous. It’s also one of the world’s biggest producers of pine nuts, due to the temperate Mediterranean climate. The city’s centrepiece is the spacious Konak Square, which has a clock tower from 1901 as its focal point. From here, it’s a short walk to the seaside promenade, which is lined with cafés and restaurants, as well as the customs house on Konak Pier, which was originally built by Gustave Eiffel and is now a chic shopping centre.
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And of course, Bodrum is one of Turkey’s best spots for nightlife and fine dining. Boat tours or cruises are the ideal way of getting around this coastal area, and the sea is warm and inviting over the summer months.
iPod docks found in bedrooms to the tech in the gourmet kitchen, the Key is always up to date – so important for today’s young and hip. The Legend of Salmakis is strong at the Salmakis Hotel (salmakishotel. com), which tells tale of a lake called Salmakis that was home to a beautiful fairy, who shared the lake’s name. Hotels We’ll let the staff at the hotel fill you The Mövenpick Hotel Izmir in on the rest of the story, but it’s (moevenpick-hotels.com) is in the worth exploring – as is the hotel’s heart of the bustling Konak area, wonderful pool and spa, where you and is a great base from which to can indulge in a traditional Turkish pick and choose the rest of the hammam. city’s attractions. It’s a 10-minute Kusadasi is the last stop on the walk away from the seafront cruise lines around the Aegean promenades, but it’s worth walking to region, and the Sealight Resort – five-star luxury like this isn’t found Hotel (sealighthotel.com) is a great everywhere. place to get your sea legs back. Ideal For a super-cool stay, seek out for families, it’s got activities like the Key Hotel Izmir (keyhotel.com). bowling and sports galore as well as Proud to appeal to a discerning taste, a huge pool and live entertainment the hotel takes great pains to stay at taking place daily. the forefront of technology. From the
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AEGEAN REGION Aegean Region
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that you might never want to eat in another restaurant in the city again once you’ve tasted its food – and its live music, from talented singer Mehmet, comes every night. In Bodrum, Kocadon (kocadon. com) comes highly recommended. Its simple square building may not look like much from the outside, but there is magic happening inside the four walls. Like many other Turkish restaurants, the bulk of the menu Restaurants comes in the form of meat and fish, While staying in Kusadasi it’s and the chef suggests the sautéed worth checking into Chez Maurice octopus in a tomato au gratin to start, Kusadasi (chezmauricekusadasi. followed by tender chicken with com), which has been offering shrimp in a cream cheese sauce. fantastic family fare for 15 years. The The best fish in Izmir is found at restaurant is right by the seaside and Deniz Restaurant (denizrestaurant. has live music every Wednesday, and com.tr), an elegant and refined is just a fun family atmosphere that restaurant that is perfect for a will really brighten up your holiday. romantic evening with your loved A restaurant with a similar feel in one. Just up the road from Arkas, Kusadasi is Saray (sarayrestaurant. facing the Kordon, this is the perfect com) which is so confident in its place for a final fantastic night in the customer service and food, it says Aegean region.
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Hot for 2015
MUĞLA PROV INCE The farthest spot southwest in Turkey is the Muğla Province, which is really up and coming as a holiday destination. The landscape is made of several plains and peaks, each with a unique personality. A week exploring here is a week well spent.
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Sunset at Travertine Terrace Pools
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MARMAR A REGION Activities Though it would be a shame to miss out on the rest that Turkey has to offer, the region of Marmara offers much of what makes the country great. We’ll begin our adventure with the great city of Istanbul, the country’s largest and most populous. The awe-inspiring Blue Mosque is hard to miss, as it dominates the city skyline. Once up close, the blue exterior and the endlessly fascinating interior architecture show off Istanbul in its best light – like Turkey as a whole, combining the best of
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Western and Eastern cultures. The Ottoman Empire ruled over Turkey for 624 years, and they spent 400 of them in the Topkapı Palace. The sprawling palace is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is now a museum containing the cloak and sword of the Prophet Muhammad. Istanbul has been a favoured shopping destination for a long time, and the new Zorlu Center complex makes flashing the cash even easier. Comprising five distinct sections: a shopping complex; a performing arts centre; Raffles hotel; office areas; and a large park. The Zorlu Center has totally energised the whole city.
Shopping done with a twist can be achieved at the Grand Bazaar, a huge covered market that incorporates a whopping 3,500 shops and stalls that sell everything from carpets to leather goods, foodstuffs and art. The shopkeepers are pretty canny and can’t be haggled down easily – but feel free to try. The Bosphorus links the Sea of Marmara with the Black Sea, and is great for a cruise that can be completed in 90 minutes – or can go on all day, as you like. The river runs through the heart of Istanbul, and on a cruise you’ll be able to take in sights like the Istanbul Modern Art
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Museum and several more Ottoman palaces and fortresses. The famous icon of the city is the Bosphorus Bridge, found towards the south of the river. The Marmara region is also famous for Troy, the side of the Trojan War in Homer’s Iliad, and the famous “Trojan Horse”. The archaeological layers go down nine layers into the earth, and have shown house foundations, theatres and ancient baths.
traditional Turkish treatments. Live like an Ottoman ruler at the Yesil Ev (yesilev.com.tr), where you can stay in a traditional Ottoman mansion that is still decorated in the ancient style. The 19th century grandeur is really quite unique, and the hotel stands proudly in an area that has otherwise been left behind by modern trappings – so if you want an authentic night’s stay in Turkey, it’s the place to find it.
Hotels The aforementioned Raffles Istanbul hotel (raffles.com/istanbul) only opened in September, but it’s fast gained a reputation as matching and even improving upon the quality of Raffles hotels found elsewhere in the world. A wonderful collection of original artwork, some commissioned specifically for the hotel, hangs throughout the 132 guest rooms and 49 suites, which also have floor-toceiling windows and 24-hour butler service. Visitors from the Middle East know what to expect from a Kempinski property – and Çıragan Palace Kempinski (kempinski.com) doesn’t disappoint. The very highest level of luxury services supports the historic and refreshing water views. Situated on the European side of the Bosphorus, the hotel is only a 10-minute drive from shopping haven Taksim. Even closer to Taksim Square is the Grand Hyatt Istanbul (istanbul. grand.hyatt.com), one of the district’s finest. One of the best things about the hotel is its range of exclusive gift shops, where you can buy knickknacks and more expensive gifts for loved ones that are unique to the hotel. Its Gaia Spa & Fitness Centre is another place you will find the East and West combining, with modern and state-of-the-art techniques being offered side by side with ancient
Restaurants Well-heeled travellers and locals can be found dining at Balıkçı Sabahattın (balikcisabahattin.com). Although the building itself is simple and the old city in which it finds
Opposite page: Istanbul. This page: Grand Bazaar; The Bosphorus.
Hot for 2015
ISTANBUL A river cruise along the Bosphorus is the best way to see all that Istanbul has to offer. Plenty of five-star hotels and restaurants line the riverbanks, too, so why not book a cruise for your first day and map out an epicurean journey for the rest of your trip?
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This page: Zorlu Center Raffles Istanbul hotel.
itself is yet to be renovated, the food inside is out-of-this-world. You simply cannot visit here without trying a fish dish – it’s what the restaurant is famous for. Cipriani Istanbul (cipriani.com) serves exquisite Carpaccio alongside the usual pastas, risottos, fish and Mediterranean dishes you would expect from this famous Italian restaurant brand. The restaurant itself is spread over a huge 2,500 square feet, with a further 1,000-square-foot terrace outside. Then there’s the pretty glass-enclosed ballroom, giving beautiful city views from the top floor of the Edition Hotel where the restaurant is found. Hipsters flock to the X Restaurant & Bar, (seleistanbul.com) located on the top floor of the historical Deniz Palace in Sishane, the headquarters of The Istanbul Foundation for Culture and Arts. This chic and stylish restaurant pairs a thoroughly modern menu concocted by Rasim Özkanca and the late Sakir Eczacıbası with the executive chef Murat Karaduman, who perfected his skills in Michelinstarred restaurants in Portugal, Austria and Germany, and now dishes up Turkish/Mediterranean fusion nightly. The area of Sultanahmet has a handful of deliciously little-known restaurants like Dubb Indian (dubbindian.com/tr), which is a quiet yet spectacularly competent Indian restaurant that serves any kind of spicy dish you can think of – but most of the dishes come out a little mild, so if you want your dinner with a kick, make a special request to the kitchen who will be happy to oblige.
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