World Traveller Feb'15

THE REGION’S BIGGEST LU XURY TR AV EL M AGAZINE

February 2015 Complimentary Copy

Issue Eighty Two

LOVE IS IN THE AIR

Produced in International Media Production Zone

MAKE PASSION YOUR PRIORIT Y THIS MONTH IN THE MOST ROMANTIC LOCATIONS ON EARTH

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EDITOR’S

NOTE

ISSUE EIGHT Y T WO, FEBRUARY 2015

Managing Director

Victoria Thatcher Editorial Director

John Thatcher Deputy Editor

Richard Jenkins Features Editor

Lara Brunt

Senior Designer

Andy Knappett Designer

Emi Dixon Sales Manager

Suhail Syed

Production Manager

Chalitha Fernando To contact any of the above people, email firstname@hotmediapublishing.com

Jan-Jun 2014 | 22,920 | BPA Consumer Audit Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller.

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Ah, spring. The time of year when a young man’s fancy lightly turns to thoughts of love, as the poet Tennyson said. WT has certainly caught the love bug, and our Weekends section is all about romance – turn to page 67 to get inspired on how to treat your loved one, from private island getaways to destination dining in Dubai.

Before that we’ve got just what you need to feed the travel bug, too. Simon Calder explores the rich and vibrant Cuba by car on page 34, before Sophie Lam’s adventures in a bold and pioneering safari camp in Rajasthan, where she attempted to spot (no pun intended) leopards in their natural habitat. See how she got on from page 48.

February is also Oscar season, so we’re looking at the most iconic travel destinations to find celluloid celebrity, from old New York to magical Morocco. Get inspired to recreate some of your favourite movies on page 44.

Enjoy the issue.

Richard Jenkins

RICHARD@HOTMEDIAPUBLISHING.COM 5

Heart-shaped cloud over tropical waters.

Getty Images.

World Traveller

@WT_Magazine

February // 2015

CHECK IN 8

Check In It’s carnival time around the world, plus our pick of remote romantic boltholes.

19

My City: Paris Christian Lacroix’s Sacha Walckhoff shares his favourite haunts in the City of Love.

25

Style & Wellness A monastic mindfulness retreat in Umbria, plus floatation therapy comes to Dubai.

DESTINATIONS 34

On the Road By foot or by car, Cuba is endlessly exciting. Join Simon Calder as he explores.

40

Sitting on the Dock of the Bay Montenegro is on the up-andup, with swish marinas and resorts, says Mark Jones.

48

Spot the Boundaries Sophie Lam heads through southern Rajasthan on the trail of elusive leopards.

40

60

Take Me to the River A cruise along Portugal’s oncewild river leaves an impression on Gabriella Le Breton.

WEEKENDS 67

Romance Special A round-up of events, ideas and travel tips to tug your heartstrings.

48

70 6

Six of the Best Romantic dining destinations to wow your other half.

75

The Great Escape Win a luxury hotel stay, and shop ‘til you drop in Dubai.

60 February // 2015

34

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In

CHECK Check In

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February // 2015

Check In Be Here Now U TA H , U S A

World Traveller

remains of giant alligators, turtles, fish and lizards. In between hot air ballooning and full moon yoga sessions, Amangiri’s new Palaeontology Experience allows guests to join an official dig in the Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument with palaeontologist Dr Alan Titus, which could make for one of the most interesting souvenirs you’ll ever take home. amanresorts.com

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Photo: Supplied by Amangiri.

Surrounded by spectacular eroded rock formations that date back 180 million years, Amangiri is a 34-suite resort in southern Utah that’s been designed to blend into the landscape with natural hues, materials and textures. The region is also a hotspot for fossil hunters, with over 20 new species of dinosaurs unearthed here during the past 15 years, along with astounding

February // 2015

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February // 2015

Be Here Now

If you’ve vowed to get fit in 2015, how about this for some serious inspiration? At almost 1,500m high and with 21km of sharp bends, cycling up Mount Dalsnibba, a summit known for its view of the World Heritage-listed Geirangerfjord, is quite a challenge. But the wild Norwegian landscapes certainly make the slog worthwhile, and remember, what goes up must

World Traveller

come down. This image is part of Polish photographer Piotr Trybalski’s set of four frames that scooped the Spirit of Adventure category in the Travel Photographer of the Year 2014 competition. Want to see more?

Around 50 winning photos will be on display at the Royal Geographical Society in London from July 24 until September 5. tpoty.com

Photo: Piotr Trybalski, Poland/tpoty.com

M Ø R E O G R O M S DA L , N O R WAY

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February // 2015

In

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Globetrotter The Lowdown

From remote boltholes to bright boardshorts, here’s what’s hot in travel this month…

LET’S

PARTY!

The world goes carnival crazy this month, with countries from all corners of the globe celebrating their culture through music, dance and weird and wonderful traditions. Here are three parties not to miss…

RIO CARNIVAL, BRAZIL Rio de Janeiro’s riotous Carnaval is a noholds-barred festival of music, samba and revelry from February 13 – 17. Expect lavish balls and free neighbourhood bandas (street party processions), but the must-see event is the Samba Parade at the Sambadrome on February 15 and 16. It sees thousands of performers shimmy into the Oscar Niemeyer-designed stadium, cheered on by a 75,000-strong crowd.

Where to stay… Located on the famous beach, Copacabana Palace hosts the exclusive Magic Ball on February 14. belmond.com VENICE CARNIVAL, ITALY Celebrated since at least the 15th century, today’s festivities are famously elegant. From January 31 to February 17, Venetians and visitors don masks and 18th-century costumes and join processions through the city or attend elaborate balls. The highlight is the Gran Ballo delle Maschere (Grand Masked Ball), a wonderfully wild – and super expensive – extravaganza at the Venice Opera House.

Where to stay… The ultra-luxurious Aman Canal Grande is hosting two palazzo banquets on February 7 and 13. amanresorts.com QUEBEC WINTER CARNIVAL, CANADA First staged in 1894 as a way to beat the winter chills, the Carnaval de Québec takes place from January 30 to February 15. Wrap up warm – the mercury averages around -10°C this month – and enjoy night parades, ice slides, dog-sled races, snow rafting, canoe races across frozen sections of St Lawrence River, snow-sculpture competitions and al fresco dance parties.

Where to stay… The newly renovated Fairmont Le Château Frontenac has a package that includes carnival entrance. fairmont.com

World Traveller

February // 2015

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In

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ON OUR RADAR

ISTANBUL

Always one of WT’s favourite cities for a weekend away, Istanbul has caught the attention of hoteliers, too.

The city has welcomed a raft of new hotels, from major international chains to smaller, home-grown establishments.

Hot on the heels of Raffles Istanbul, a beacon above the Bosphorus that opened in October last year, came 10 Karaköy in November, a 71-room boutique beauty in the buzzing district of the same name, followed by The Public, another small five-star gem, this time in a restored 19th-century building in Beyoğlu. And this year looks set to be just as busy. Kicking things off next month is St Regis Istanbul, a sumptuous, 118-room property in the heart of upmarket Nişantaşı, followed by Banker Han, a cool and affordable art hotel due to open near the Galata Bridge in April. Mondrian Istanbul, meanwhile, is also slated to open in the summer in the Old City close to the Blue Mosque with the promise of a spectacular spa, renovated from an existing historic Turkish bath. But it’s the news that Soho House Istanbul is opening in the first half of the year that has really got us excited. Housed in a restored 19th-century palazzo originally built for a wealthy Italian family, the hotel will have 87 rooms, two rooftop pools, a nightclub, cinema room and Cowshed spa.

TRAVEL MUST-HAVE

SMART STR AP

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***

Wearable technology is big news in the world of watchmaking, with a number of models that can monitor your heart rate and deliver email alerts. Now, wearable tech combines with top horological techniques for the launch of Montblanc’s TimeWalker Urban Speed e-Strap. The interchangeable watch strap not only syncs with your smartphone to track your activity levels, read text messages, view status updates and witness incoming calls, but also has clever remote controls that allow you to take photos on your phone – and play, pause and skip music – by simply tapping the strap. The e-Strap will be available in June, along with three new TimeWalker watches. montblanc.com February // 2015

In

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HOTEL TREND

REMOTE ROMANCE

LOCAL FIND

COOL CAFE

Prepared to follow your Valentine to the end of the earth? Try these ultra-secluded boltholes

FOGO ISLAND INN CANADA

In a traditional fishing village on Fogo Island off the northern coast of Newfoundland, this futuristic hotel features 29 suites with bespoke furnishings made by local craftsmen and an accomplished fine-dining menu. fogoislandinn.ca

Diners in Abu Dhabi are in for a treat, with the opening of No. 57 Boutique Café in Al Bateen Harbour. Founded by Emirati duo Buthaina Al Mazrui and Alamira Noor Bani Hashim – creators of the successful invite-only supper club, Dinner Club by No. 57 – the casual eatery features gorgeous monochrome

interiors and simple dishes bursting with flavour, such as lobster linguine and spice rubbed lamb chops. Open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, make sure you leave room for the signature dessert: ermahgerd, a dreamy concoction of toffee crumble, cream and roasted marshmallows. no57.co

R ATUA ISLAND VANUATU

On its own private island in the Pacific, about 1,600km east of Oz, this resort has 13 villas with four-poster beds and private deck or beach, while the new beachfront safari tent is perfect for honeymooners. ratua.com

FASHION EXCLUSIVE

BEACH BOYS

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HOANIB SKELETON COAST CAMP NAMIBIA

Located in the remote Kaokoveld region, this high-end camp has just eight stylish en-suite tents, along with expert guides to help you spot elephant, giraffe and occasionally lion and rhino, on foot, by 4x4 and by air. wilderness-safaris.com February // 2015

From the Med to the Middle East, French swimwear brand Vilebrequin has launched its first limited edition men’s collection, exclusively for the GCC. Inspired by Arabesque pattern, desert safaris and native animals, the Oasis Les Bains Collection hits stores this month. int.vilebrequin.com

NEW EXHIBITION

FACE TIME ***

All images © Mario Marino.

An exhibition of acclaimed travel portrait photographer Mario Marino’s work has opened at The Empty Quarter gallery in Dubai.

Comprising over 40 large portraits taken over a four-year period in exotic locales such as India, Nepal and Cuba, Marino captures the beauty and dignity of his subjects. “I try to read people’s lives, the circumstances they live,” the snapper says. “I really do love people. I’m fascinated by their cultural background and identity.” Until February 17, theemptyquarter.com

MARIO’S TIPS FOR PERFECT PORTRAITS ***

Buy good shoes A normal day for me involves ten hours walking to see what’s going on and to understand the lives of people.

Go to a museum Learn what makes a good composition from paintings. I’ve learned a lot from 19th century and early 20th century artists.

Shoot in shadow Look for even light and don’t use flash, as it’s unnatural and makes people feel uncomfortable.

Learn from your photos In the digital age you can see your photos very quickly, so look at what works and what doesn’t.

Get a local guide In Ethiopia, my guide told me to give the tribes salt and instant soups. It really opened doors.

World Traveller

February // 2015

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23,600 $2.1bn 2,745 visitors from 131 countries

of new business generated at ATM 2014

exhibiting companies

Register now arabiantravelmarket.com • • • •

Fast track entry with your e-badge Exclusive updates on new show features Regular news on seminar programme Access to ATM’s online planning tool to plan your visit

PANTONE 485

In

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MY CIT Y

Paris

Sacha Walckhoff, creative director of Christian Lacroix, shares his favourite haunts in the City of Love I always recommend visitors stay at Hôtel Recamier, a chic boutique hotel in the heart of Saint-Germain-desPrés that was decorated by Jean Louis Deniot. Then start your day at my gym club, L’Usine, in Beaubourg near the Centre Pompidou modern art museum, to sweat next to Scarlett Johansson, Kenny West or Marc Jacob when they’re in town. Of course the Eiffel Tower is a must-visit, but if I had only 24 hours to explore Paris, I would begin with an almond croissant at Ladurée pastry shop (try the one on the Champs Elysées) and then visit Musée Gustave-Moreau, a 19th century Romantic painter’s home that has been turned into a museum. Next up, I’d have a “jockey” (a croquemonsieur with a fried or poached egg on top) and a green salad on the first floor of Café de Flore in SaintGermain, before wandering over to Galerie kreo, known for contemporary design pieces, and Galerie Gosserez across the Seine

in the North Marais district where my porcelain pieces are presented. I’d end my day at La Grande Serre (the greenhouses) in the middle of Le Jardin des Plantes.

For the best luxury shopping, head to the Lacroix Boutique on place Saint Sulpice and Maurizio Galante on Avenue Daumesnil for haute couture and bespoke design. Men should also try The Broken Arm boutique in the Carreau du Temple neighbourhood.

And you can still find amazing pieces at the Paul Bert flea market if you have a good eye! For peace and quiet, head to Musée de la Vie Romantique, small museum dedicated to two artists who were active during the Romantic era, and have a light green tea in the garden. In Marais, clink glasses at the Little Red Door, show off in the courtyard of Derriere restaurant and dine at Anahi, an Argentinian restaurant in an old butcher’s shop. Lastly, don’t leave without sampling ginger dipped in dark chocolate at a Pierre Hermé shop.

TRAVEL DOWNLOAD

All the media you need, whatever your journey Book

Music

Film

App

CR ASH & BURN

SHADOWS IN THE NIGHT

FURY

TROVER

Brad Pitt stars as a tank commander who leads a deadly mission behind enemy lines in WWII Germany.

Dubbed “the baby of Instagram and Trip Advisor”, users upload photos and then submit recommendations for those spots.

Lisa Gardner

Bob Dylan

After surviving a horrific car crash, a woman begs police to find her missing daughter.

But is the child real or a figment of her imagination?

World Traveller

Dylan’s 36th studio album is a collection of 10 Frank Sinatra tracks (but sadly no New York, New York).

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February // 2015

In

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SPOTLIGHT ON

SÃO PAULO Food and Fashion

D.O.M. A regular fixture on the World’s Best Restaurants list (ranked No. 7 in 2014), chef Alex Atala serves up ambitious, research-led contemporary Brazilian/ Amazonian cuisine.

Mani Set within the exclusive suburb of Jardim Paulista, husband-and-wife team Helena Rizzo and Daniel Redondo raid Brazil’s larder of obscure roots and fruits to fantastic effect.

Daslu The city’s fashionistas stock up on Brazilian haute couture at this 180,000-square-foot department store that is renowned for its exceptional customer service and fabulous fashions. daslu.com.br Rua Oscar Freire Known as the “Rodeo Drive of São Paulo”, you’ll find a good collection of key Brazilian brands, such as shoe emporium Melissa and celebrated fashion brand, Osklen, along this tree-lined street in the Jardins district.

Brazil’s largest city is an exciting centre for fashion, gastronomy and nightlife

Sights

Museu do Futebol There’s no escaping the ‘beautiful game’ in Brazil.

Part of the impressive art deco Pacaembu Stadium, the museum has multimedia exhibitions about the history of World Cup football and interesting memorabilia.

Edifício Itália Brazil’s version of the Empire State Building, also known as Banespa Tower, offers 360-degree views of the city and the Serra da Cantareira mountain range to the north from its 35thfloor observation deck.

Museu de Arte de São Paulo Housed in a brutalist modern building, this museum contains the largest collection of Western art in Latin America, including works by Van Gogh, Renoir, Picasso, Dali and Goya, alongside surrealist and abstract Brazilian artworks.

Mercado Municipal São Paulo’s biggest produce market is your go-to place for tropical fruits like sweet mangos and tangy jabuticabas, as well as local snacks like pasteis (savoury meat and cheese-filled pasties). On Sundays there is often live music.

Samba Style

While the unmistakeable sound of samba is synonymous with Rio de Janeiro’s spectacular Carnival, São Paulo hosts its own spirited celebrations this month. The biggest parade sees the city’s top samba schools compete in a twonight extravaganza in the Sambadrome that attracts around 30,000 partygoers.

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February // 2015

Exceptional, indigenous, experience.

Al Maha Desert Resort & Spa is a luxurious Bedouin encampment in the desert, 45 minutes from Dubai. Built to be a conservation-led resort and situated on a total of 225 square kilometres pristine desert landscape, Al Maha is home to 42 private guest suites and a boardroom for 120 guests.

Diverse wildlife and desert activities including camel trekking and desert safaris ensure exceptional experiences for every guest whilst the Timeless Spa serves the guest with a truly rejuvenating and relaxing experience.

LIFE IS A COLLECTION OF EXPERIENCES LET US BE YOUR GUIDE Al Maha Desert Resort & Spa is a luxurious Bedouin encampment in the desert, 45 minutes from Dubai.

For more information please contact 971 4 8329900 or visit al-maha.com

In

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Chef ’s TOP TABLES

Rosalind Parsk, head chef at the glamorous Pierchic in Dubai, shares her most memorable dishes from around the globe

The Dorchester, London, England

The Dorchester

ORDER: Afternoon tea

Being English, there is nothing I enjoy more when back in London then going for afternoon tea with my mum. The Dorchester has it all: food which just keeps coming, from a large variety of sandwiches to fresh warm scones with jam and clotted cream.

They also have a beautiful selection of cakes and pastries. To wash it down you need a fine glass of bubbly and a huge selection of teas from all over the world. You are sitting in the beautiful lobby where you feel miles away from the hustle and bustle of London.

Per Se, New York, USA ORDER: Foie gras and scallops

I went to New York last year and ate in some amazing restaurants. My favor was Per Se, I just loved everything about it. The food, the atmosphere, the whole meal was so beautifully presented and the flavours in the scallops stay with me still to this day.

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55 Riley Street Garage, Sydney, Australia ORDER: Oysters

It used to be a garage but they converted it into a New York 50s restaurant, the dĂŠcor is stunning. The food is amazing, they do a tasting menu where you can have small dishes of the whole menu. The Oysters were amazing, so fresh. The food is Japanese influenced so all the raw fish is a must try, you can have all small bites and share!

February // 2015

55 Riley Street Garage

Sa Domu Sarda, Sardinia, Italy ORDER: Mussels

I love Italian food, I have been to Sardinia on many occasions. I just love it there. I love how simple but fresh the food is. It may be as simple as a salad but you can tell the tomatoes have been bought from the market that day. This restaurant is a family owned restaurant and is in the center of Cagliari. It is very rustic but the food is amazing, the mussels in white wine and garlic are the perfect start to the meal.

As Sardinia is an island, they get the most amazing fresh fish and shellfish - so it’s a must to try when you visit.

Pai Thai, Dubai, UAE ORDER: Beef massaman

Pai Thai

I have been to Thailand several times and fell in love with the food. As I live in Dubai I like nothing better than going to Pai Thai and reminiscing about my time in Thailand.

They do an amazing beef massaman. The beef melts in your mouth and the sauce is rich and creamy. It’s heaven.

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Per Se World Traveller

February // 2015

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ON TREND TR AV EL

Images by Emily Wilson and Las Vegas News Bureau.

Downtown Las Vegas, USA

Mention Vegas and most people think of The Strip, the neon-lit stretch of Las Vegas Boulevard lined with casinos, hotels, nightclubs and restaurants. But recently, the older Downtown area has been grabbing our attention, thanks to a largescale urban regeneration programme. The Downtown Project is designed to create a new economy for Sin City beyond gambling by creating restaurants, bars and businesses in the city’s once-neglected district. The project is the brainchild of Tony Hsieh, CEO of Zappos,

an online shoe and clothing retailer, who wants to turn Downtown into a hub of culture and innovation. The tycoon is spending $350m on leisure and entertainment facilities, small businesses and tech start-ups, in a bid to lure young entrepreneurs from Silicon Valley, London and New York to the desert. One of the most exciting initiatives is the Downtown Container Park, a family-friendly outdoor shopping, dining and entertainment venue located just blocks away from the busy boulevard. Made completely out of shipping containers

stacked on top of each other, the park features independent boutiques, such as the LVCK, which sells street wear, and Jessica Galindo, which specialises in handmade leather accessories, alongside small galleries like Indian Soul Art selling Native American works. You’ll also find around 20 casual restaurants, including Big Ern’s BBQ and gourmet vegan eatery, Simply Pure, plus a fantastic kids’ play area, complete with a 10-metre-high slide. Free music performances and a weekly movie night round out the offering, making it the

I WANT TO...

Inspiring ideas for your bucket list

…climb Mount Kilimanjaro

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At 5,895m, snow-capped Mount Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, not far from the Kenyan border, is Africa’s highest peak. More than 20,000 trekkers attempt to reach the summit each year, passing through five different climatic zones as they go. You can only climb Kili as part of an organised trek and along established routes, so you’ll have a crew of around 30 guides, cooks and porters looking after you as you ascend. Routes vary in degree of difficulty and scenic beauty. The least difficult routes are Marangu and Rongai, while Machame, Shira and Limosho are more challenging. Book a hike lasting at least 6-7 days (any shorter and you’ll not be properly acclimatised to the altitude) and go in January to March or September to October, when the weather conditions are safest for climbing.

February // 2015

new go-to spot for visitors and locals alike. Not far from here is a four-block district known as Downtown3rd. The pedestrian-friendly area will eventually have around two dozen bars and restaurants and is already home to the popular Downtown3rd Farmers’ Market, a huge indoor market held every Friday. Not sure where to stay? Downtown Grand, formerly the Lady Luck and the first new hotel in Downtown in about two decades, is a lavishly renovated casino-hotel in the heart of the precinct. Viva Las Vegas!

In

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Style&Wellness Look good, feel good

ALL BY MYSELF

PERFECT PASSPORT

Mindfulness, a technique that teaches you to be more focused on the present, rather than worried about the past or future, was one of 2014’s biggest buzzwords. And the trend looks set to continue in 2015, with the launch of a new Italian eco-retreat made for the solo traveller that encourages reflection and personal discovery. Housed in a 13th-century stone building in rolling

Umbrian hills, Eremito – Italian for “hermit” – features 14 single rooms exuding a monastic aesthetic with no Wi-Fi, television or mobile phone signal.

Dinners are vegetarian and eaten in silence by candlelight, while daily yoga and meditative spa facilities allow guests to look inwards. Intense yes, but perfect for those in need of a digital detox. designhotels.com/eremito

Frequent flyers and fans of Assouline’s luxurious books on art, design and travel will love this chic passport holder.

Printed with the publisher’s signature Didot typeface and featuring a red lambskin leather interior, the case combines stylish function with literary elegance. assouline.com

THREE (MORE)

REASONS TO VISIT LONDON

Shop, spa and sip to your heart’s content at these new hotspots

TERMINAL 5

Heathrow Airport Voted ‘Best Airport for Shopping’ five years in a row, Heathrow’s flagship terminal unveiled a new look last month, as Louis Vuitton, Cartier, Rolex, Fortnum & Mason and Bottega Veneta joined the line-up of 24 luxury brands. heathrowairport.com

World Traveller

BAGLIONI SPA

LITTLE H

Baglioni Hotel

Parsons Green

The newly renovated spa at this sleek Knightsbridge hotel has Turkish baths and exclusive Natura Bissé products.

There are new signature treatments too, including a Gents Facial that borrows from traditional barbers’ techniques. baglionihotels.com

Inspired by clean Californian cuisine, this hip hangout on New King’s Road specialises in super smoothies (try the berry almond milk) and vegan, sugar, dairy and wheat-free dishes, along with some more indulgent treats. littlehlondon.com

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February // 2015

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SURF’S UP

1.

Learn to ride the waves at these active resorts

7 2.

3.

4.

MAGNIFICENT

7.

Romantic Weekend Wardrobe 6.

5.

(1) Marc

by Marc Jacobs scarf (2) Illesteva sunglasses (3) Victoria Beckham dress (4) Frame Denim boyfriend jeans (5) Sergio Rossi sandals (6) Jimmy Choo Chandra clutch (7) Étoile Isabel Marant shirt. Available at net-aporter.com

THE RITZ-CARLTON, LAGUNA NIGUEL, USA Best for… beginners Perched atop a 150-foot bluff overlooking the Pacific in Southern California, this resort has all the equipment you’ll need, such as wetsuits, boards and wax. Learn to surf with a two-hour private lesson from a pro, or ladies can opt for the All Girls Surf Getaway that includes a 60-minute massage in the Ritz-Carlton Spa. There’s SUP, golf, tennis, yoga and pilates, along with a fitness centre facing the waves. ritzcarlton.com

Wonder

WATER MAALIFUSHI BY COMO, THE MALDIVES Best for… serious surfers

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Want to beat stress without raising a sweat? Then floatation therapy is for you, says Dr Asma Inamdar from Point Zero, Dubai’s new floatation therapy centre.

“The concept behind the floatation tanks is to create

February // 2015

a feeling of weightlessness that allows each muscle in the body to relax,” she explains.

The centre has four float rooms, with separate tanks for male and female customers.

After popping in your ear plugs, you can choose

to turn the tank’s interior light off or leave it on, then drift into a state of deep relaxation. Feeling active?

The centre also has spa bikes – a great low-impact way to burn fat and have fun. pointzerofloatation.com

Opened last year, this private island resort in the southern Thaa Atoll caters to both beginners and more experienced wave riders. There’s expert tuition from the resident Tropicsurf guide, as well as boat transfers to the best spots. There’s also fantastic snorkelling and diving, not to mention Asianinspired holistic therapies at COMO Shambhala Retreat. comohotels.com/maalifushi

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TWO’S COMPANY

Discover how Dubai’s newest coastal spot, EDEN Beach Club, can take you from morning to night this Valentine’s Day…

AM

The venue: By day the EDEN Beach Club is all about lounging along the coastline.

With the option to pull up a lounger or dive inside a beachside bungalow, catching rays to the sound of chill-out is as active as you’re going to get – unless you happen to lazily wander barefoot to the SUP station on the beach. Here, you can pick up a paddleboard and take to the seas for a gentle, morning workout.

The vibe: Cool and casual with plenty of cocktails.

The unmissable: Morning yoga sessions with visiting yogi experts.

Ramp up the romance: If you’re looking to luxe out, take a beachside bungalow for the day. Similar to a studio flat in size, the cabanas boast a king-sized bed, corner sofa, storage units and plenty of privacy. Take a moment (or two) to pour over the sea views as you while away the morning with your significant other.

PM

The venue: After a sushi and seafood dinner at the beach club’s restaurant, it’s time to rock the romance in the Lounge, where you’ll find private tables with plunge pools and sofas for groups. The all-white décor is reminiscent of Ibiza, while the bar and its stable of mixologists are sure to quench your thirst with some creative concoctions.

The vibe: Lively, loud and seriously glamorous.

The unmissable: American DJ Steve Aoki takes to the decks on February 5.

Ramp up the romance: While you’ll be hard-pressed finding a cosy spot for two during the evening (crowds can reach four digits if there’s a big DJ in town), you could blow the budget and take a bungalow with a private plunge pool.

With 10 tables up for grabs, taking a dip while the DJ spins his decks is pretty cool.

EDEN Beach Club is open Tuesday through to Sunday. edenbeachclub.com

FOR YOUR VALENTINE..

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Spoil your beloved – or yourself – with these gorgeous gifts

M.Micallef Ananda perfume, mmicallef.com

World Traveller

Armani/Dolci pralines, Armani/ Dubai Caffe, The Dubai Mall

Air Loubi soft sole flats, christianlouboutin.com

February // 2015

In

CHECK

brought to you by

USA Langham Place, Fifth Avenue, New York 5* 4 nights from USD865 per person Special offer: Stay 3 nights and receive an extra night free Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Place on room only basis with return airport transfers Validity: Now ‘til March 31, 2015

World Traveller Holiday Offers

Spain

How to Book 28

You can book these offers by calling dnata on +971 4 316 6666 or by visiting dnatatravel.com.

Terms and conditions apply. On the same site you can also sign up to dnata’s newsletter and receive more offers direct to your inbox.

February // 2015

Hotel Villa Magna, Madrid 5* 2 nights from USD605 per person Special offer: Guaranteed complimentary upgrade to next room category, complimentary VIP treatment and special amenities Includes: Stay in a Grand Deluxe Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers* Validity: Now ‘til March 8, 2015 *for Grand Deluxe upgrade to Grand Prestige room

Maldives Holiday Inn Kandooma 4* 4 nights from USD1,235 per person Special offer: Stay 3 nights and receive an additional night free Includes: Stay in a Beach House with breakfast daily and return speedboat transfers Validity: Now ‘til April 16, 2015

Monaco Hôtel Hermitage MonteCarlo 5* 3 nights from USD645 per person Special offer: Stay 2 nights and receive an extra night free Includes: Stay in an Exclusive Sea View Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now ‘til March 31, 2015

Seychelles Constance Ephelia 5* 3 nights from USD815 per person Special offer: 30% room rate reduction plus 1 child under 12 stays free Includes: Stay in a Junior Suite with breakfast and dinner daily plus return airport transfers Validity: Now ‘til 18 April, 2015

World Traveller

Thailand Movenpick Resort and Spa Karon Beach Phuket 5* 4 nights from USD440 per person Special offer: Stay three nights and receive an additional night free Includes: Stay in Garden View Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now ‘til March 31, 2015

Malaysia Ritz Carlton Kuala Lumpur 5* 3 nights from USD305 per person Special offer: 10% room rate reduction Special offer: Stay in Deluxe Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now ‘til March 31, 2015

Indonesia Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay 5* 3 nights from USD 870 per person Special offer: Stay two nights and receive an additional night free Includes: Stay in One Bedroom Villa with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now ‘til March 31, 2015

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In

CHECK

ROB ARROW

Learns history in Tokyo

Niyama

Grand Hyatt Hong Kong

Hilton Vienna Plaza

Manzil Downtown Dubai

MALDIVES

HONG KONG

This is inspired beauty with a twist. Niyama has all you will need to make this the most memorable stay from horizon views to the tranquil dhows floating on the water.

Niyama has overwater pavilions, stand-alone studios and of course more than anything beachfront bliss. The hotel is all about luxury and being at one with nature.

Grand Hyatt Hong Kong Hotel is positioned among the finest luxury hotels in the city and with magnificent views of Hong Kong’s renowned Victoria Harbour and Wanchai district. The hotel enjoys a central location on Hong Kong Island, in the very heart of this vibrant and exciting city. The hotel is conveniently interconnected with the HKCEC (Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre) and only 40 minutes from Hong Kong Airport.

AUSTRIA

UAE

Hilton Vienna Plaza is situated at Vienna’s most prestigious location, the Ringstraße.

It is only a short walk to St. Stephen’s Cathedral, Burgtheater, the State Opera and Hofburg Imperial Palace. Opened in 1988 as the first designer hotel in the city, it has been extensively renovated.

Manzil Downtown Dubai is an upscale boutique hotel with a contemporary Arabesque design, a stylised hub for today’s social explorers, a rare gem in the city of Dubai to come across something a little more edgy and contemporary, however with the fantastic service that one has come to expect from the UAE.

Niyama, A Per Aquum Resort 5* 4 nights from USD 2,910 per person Special offer: Stay 3 nights and receive an additional night free, plus 2 children under 12 stay, eat and fly for free Includes: Stay in a Beach Studio with breakfast daily and return seaplane transfers.

Validity: Now ‘til April 10, 2015

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Hilton Vienna Plaza 5* 3 nights from USD 370 per person Special offer: 55% room rate reduction plus 2 children under 12 years stay and eat free Includes: Stay in a Hilton Deluxe Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers.

Validity: Now ‘til March 3,1 2015

February // 2015

Grand Hyatt Hong Kong 5* 3 nights from USD 615 per person Special offer: 10% room rate reduction Includes: Stay in Grand Deluxe Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now ‘til March 2, 2015

Manzil Downtown Dubai 4* 1 night from USD 175 per person Special offer: 15% room rate reduction Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room on room only basis Validity: Until May 15, 2015

Often the bright lights of New York or London are what draw us to explore a city. However, a city that is shining very bright now is Tokyo.

Known as Edo until 1868, it’s hard to imagine that this high-rise, hightech metropolis could possibly have existed in a time before electricity and concrete.

There’s a sci-fi familiarity to areas like Shibuya, Shinjuku and Akihabara; the skyscrapers glowing with illuminated signs, subway stops inside shopping malls and taxis with automated doors could be straight out of “Blade Runner” or “The Fifth Element.”

After centuries of expansion, Tokyo has grown vertically to accommodate its 12 million residents. Perhaps the inevitability of another catastrophic earthquake accounts for the lack of emotional attachment to the city’s architecture; buildings are continuously being pulled down and replaced, creating the sensation that Tokyo’s skyline is a permanent building-block playground.

While the new city glimmers high into the sky, you can still see traces of old Edo. The Meiji Jingu Shrine tells of the city’s Shinto heritage and there’s something timeless about the charming chaos of Tsukiji Fish Market.

At first glance, Tokyo is a very serious city, the locals efficiently going about the business of making their city a world capital of techno commerce, but shops filled with manga comics and anime DVDs hint at a desire to escape the obligations of real life. That appetite for fun is expressed in the phenomenon of “cosplay”, which sees teenagers dress as characters from cartoons and comic strips, or in the outlandish uniforms of various distinctive subcultures.

In the 80s, Japan’s bubble economy created unsustainable growth in Tokyo and property prices in the capital went through the roof. When the bubble burst in the early 90s, Tokyo was hit particularly hard but, after years of recession, Tokyo has the buzz of a city regaining its confidence.

To book a trip to Tokyo or further into Japan visit your nearest dnata outlet or call +971 4 316 6666.

WHAT GOES ON TOUR… Insight Vacations offer incredibly refined tours that will take you around the world in style

F

or over 35 years Insight Vacations has been designing the world’s finest escorted touring itineraries.

Being experts in touring Europe where Insight visits 43 European countries (the most of any operator), Insight is the leading escorted tour operator in the Eastern Mediterranean and offers the same legendary high standards and perfectly planned touring itineraries to guests travelling to North America, India and Nepal.

If you’re looking for the ultimate in luxury and refinement when you travel, then an Insight Gold vacation is the perfect choice for you. This selection of unique itineraries offers more than a series of destination highlights. These journeys go above and beyond the basics to offer something extra when it comes to style, service and comfort.

In addition to all of the perks and professionalism you can expect from any of Insight’s vacation options, these standout tours also provide an all-inclusive experience. All visits, sightseeing, activities and evening dining are included in the price of your vacation so you don’t have to worry about anything. Your only concern? Enjoying the journey.

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FEATURED INSIGHT GOLD VACATIONS

Majestic Europe Countries Visited: France, Switzerland, Italy, England Duration: 11 Days About the experience: As you make your way across Europe, from La Tour Eiffel to la Città Eterna, a string of intimate experiences puts you in contact with the locals and unveils the secrets and stories behind each city visited Prices starting from: US$ 5,350 Highlights: Signature Experiences and Dining, Additional Included Sightseeing tours, Included First Class Services Departure dates: 15 May, 29 May, 12 Jun, 26 Jun, 10 Jul, 24 Jul, 07 Aug, 21 Aug, 04 Sep, 18 Sep, 02 Oct, 2015

Hawaiian Dreams Countries Visited: United States Duration: 10 Days About the experience: The warm Pacific laps gently at your feet as you recline on whitesandy beaches; lush jungle hillsides reveal cascading waterfalls and the gentle spirit of Aloha Prices starting from: US$ 4,482 Highlights: Signature Experiences, Additional Included sightseeing tours, Signature Dining, Signature hotels and locations, Additional five star services Departure dates: 18 Apr, 09 May, 27 Jun, 11 Jul, 22 Aug, 12 Sep, 10 Oct, 07 Nov, 05 Dec, 2015 *Price is per person on twin sharing basis. For More Information, please call +971 4 316 6666 or email contactcentre@ dnata.com February // 2015

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Advertorial

Take to the Skies

Seawings, the luxury seaplane tour operator, has just launched its new venture, Seawings Lifestyle, which offers three or six night charter packages including scenic seaplane tours plus luxury yacht charter. The thrill of taking off and landing a seaplane in Yas Marina, coming down over Ferrari World Abu Dhabi and Yas Viceroy Abu Dhabi, is a memory you and your partner will never forget.

Romance on Yas

Dreams come true for romantic couples with a stay on Yas Island this Valentine’s Day. Here are a few ideas that could make this the best year yet...

Get an early start

On February 10 at 7.30pm, Yas Marina kicks off its monthly outdoor screening sessions for adults, with a special Valentine’s movie. Take advantage of the Early Bird special at Iris or grab a takeaway for two from one of the seven licenced restaurants and bars and enjoy an old school classic movie on the lawn under the twinkling stars.

Treat yourself

Yas Viceroy Abu Dhabi is also home to the stunning ESPA, which has a host of signature treatments where classic healing traditions blend with modern techniques to provide an inspirational experience. With nine treatment rooms and stateof-the-art equipment, booking a session at ESPA is the perfect way to recharge your batteries as part of a romantic weekend.

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February // 2015

Delicious dining at Crowne Plaza Yas Island

Dine at Stills, Barouk, or Jing Asia on Valentine’s Evening (February 14) for just AED500* per couple. You will be greeted with house bubbles, and enjoy a specially prepared menu for the occasion. Your meal includes all house beverages, so it’s a great time to enjoy the new violinist, singers, and dancer at Barouk, dig into the new buffets at Jing Asia, or enjoy the new live music at Stills. For just a further AED500* enjoy a night’s rest and breakfast in the morning. *Inclusive of 10% Service Charge and 6% Tourism Fee)

Valentine’s at Yas Viceroy

The Suite Stay & Play offer at Yas Viceroy Abu Dhabi is perfect for couples looking for a luxurious retreat this year.

Escape the city and check in to Yas Island’s most decadent hotel, and enjoy AED200 credit to be used on room service or for a dynamic dinner for two at one of the hotel’s award-winning restaurants. Enjoy the beautiful weather by relaxing by the pool or at Yas Beach.

OFFERS Take advantage of some of these terrific offers for a romantic weekend to remember at Yas Island. Book by calling dnata on +971 4 316 6666 or by visiting dnatatravel.com

UAE

A special meal

After sunset, It’s dinnertime.

Book a four course dinner at Cipriani never to be forgotten, and linger over your special Valentine’s menu. Italian fine dining has always had pride of place on Yas Island, and the famous Cipriani restaurant will pull out all the stops to make sure you have a Valentine’s evening like no other. Plus, ladies who dine at Cipriani get a complementary body massage at La Riche Spa in Abu Dhabi.

World Traveller

Radisson Blu Hotel, Abu Dhabi Yas Island 4* 1 night from USD130 per person.

Special offers: Complimentary upgrade to Superior Room and unlimited access to one of the Yas Parks Includes: Stay in a Standard Room with breakfast daily.

Validity: Now ‘til April 30, 2015.

Crowne Plaza Abu Dhabi Yas Island 4* 1 night from USD 122 per person.

Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast daily and 2 Yas park tickets Validity: Now ‘til April 30, 2015.

Yas Viceroy Abu Dhabi 5* 1 night from USD450 per person.

Special offers: Receive 20% discount on Food & Beverage and Guaranteed Check out at 2pm Includes: Stay in a Marina King Room with breakfast.

Validity: Now ‘til March 31, 2015.

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Cuba

On the

ROAD

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From lush tropical landscapes to a turbulent history of revolution, Cuba is a fascinating island to explore by car, as Simon Calder discovers

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World Traveller

February // 2015

Cuba

The beaches along the flat south-eastern shore are superb, but the towns and cities are even more compelling

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Opening page: Driving down the Malecón, Havana.

This page, clockwise from top right: Colonial architecture in Havana; Pinar del Rio province in the Viñales valley; A coconut; The colourful dome of the Ayuntamiento (City Hall) and Parque José Marti, Cienfuegos; musician in Santiago de Cuba province.

Opposite page: Cayo Guillermo.

February // 2015

he Caribbean’s largest island – the size of England – is ideal for a fly-drive adventure. Cuba is the only nation that invites you to drive through superb tropical landscapes, on lightly travelled roads, in the company of vehicles that are relics from half-a-century ago. You can drive where you please, alternating between glorious colonial towns and dazzling beaches as you cover the ground between the scenic tobaccogrowing lands of western Cuba and the wild countryside and revolutionary history of the east.

Rental cars are readily available and good value. But you need not rent a car for the full duration of your stay; in Havana, a vehicle will be a disadvantage.

You might alternatively be staying in one of the big resorts, such as Varadero and Guardalavaca, and want to opt out for a few days. Cuba lends itself to impromptu decisions because accommodation is so plentiful: besides some excellent hotels, you can find plenty of casas particulares – private homes– offering comfortable rooms for relatively little money.

Don’t be too ambitious about the distances you intend to cover. After all, you need to make the most of being on the road. The excellent Guía de Carreteras de Cuba (Highway Guide of Cuba) is widely available on the island. It is bilingual Spanish/English and has detailed regional charts plus street maps for all the World Traveller

significant towns and cities.

A good first move is to go west on the Autopista Nacional – the backbone of the road network.

In Pinar del Rio province, the Cordillera de Guaniguanico provides a stirring upland companion. The range includes the Sierra de los Organos with the bizarre mogotes – large limestone humps which rise dramatically out of the tobacco fields of the Viñales valley.

Viñales offers splendid hiking as well as the most environmentally sensitive aspects of tourism in Cuba. A great place to stay

Baracoa is a sleepy, seductive town that captivated Columbus in 1492 is the Hotel Los Jazmines, a handsome early 20th-century mansion with superb views. Then explore the Viñales National Park north of the town, with fascinating caves and spectacular views. Next, move gently east, possibly pausing at the southern port of Batabanó for a side-trip to Isla de la Juventud (Isle of Youth) – for some rejuvenation and diving. Ferries are erratic, though, and you may want to leave your car on the mainland.

The Zapata Peninsula gets its name

from the shape on the map – like a shoe (zapata) kicking into the Gulf of Batabanó – and it is Cuba’s prime rainforest area.

Continuing west, you can tick off one fascinating city after another: Cienfuegos, Trinidad, Sanctí Spíritus and Ciego de Avila. By now the autopista has ended, and the journey continues on the Carretera Central. Camagüey is certainly worth a stop. And make a detour to Bayamo and the province of Granma. (Granma, by the way, means ‘grandmother’ – the name of the cabin cruiser used by Che Guevara, Fidel Castro and their comrades, for the 1956 landing that began the revolution.)

The beaches along the flat south-eastern shore are superb, but the towns and cities are even more compelling. Santiago, ‘Hero City of the Revolution’, contains the Moncada Barracks, where Castro led his first attempt to overthrow the Batista regime. Drive into the Sierra Maestra, where the rebels set up camp while rousing support to continue the struggle.

Further west, Baracoa, close to Cuba’s ‘Land’s End’, is reached by a sinuous drive through the mountains. It is a sleepy, seductive town that captivated Columbus in 1492. Feeling adventurous? The northcoast road can be challenging, but is usually passable with a bit of care. The resort of Guardalavaca provides en-route indulgence, while Holguín is a friendly city where you can get under the skin of Cuba.

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Cuba

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The Capitolio building in Havana is an excellent place to survey automotive history – with one spluttering old relic from Detroit after another – before heading south-east.

Get in touch with the nature of the island at Guamá, where you can board a boat to explore more deeply. You are taken across the Laguna del Tesoro (Treasure Lake) which was named so because, after the conquistadores arrived, the locals threw their riches into the water rather than give them up. A Taíno village has been recreated, with thatched huts on stilts dotted around the island.

Close by, the Cueva de los Peces is the deepest flooded tectonic fault in Cuba – and a great place to cool off. It translates as ‘the cave of the fish’, and is said to be more than 200ft deep.

Playa Girón is central to the story of 20th-century Cuba: it was the location for the failed the Bay of Pigs invasion of 1962, and is now home to an all-inclusive resort and some idyllic scenery.

A newly opened road cuts a big corner across the south of Cuba and gives faster access to Cienfuegos. By the standards of Cuban cities, Cienfuegos is relatively new – established in 1819 – and rather lovely. Founded by a French settler, Louis Clement, it is full of 19th-century French architecture.

A block away, the main square, the Parque José Martí, is home to the exquisite Teatro Tomas Terry and the governor’s palace. And there’s the even more impressive Palacio de Valle, perched by the water at Punta Gorda – a lavish Hispanic-Moorish masterpiece.

From Cienfuegos, you can follow the coast east and climb into the Escambray Mountains, which rise majestically north of the shore. Topes de Collantes is a highaltitude hill resort at the heart of Cuba’s coffee country – claimed to rank with the Blue Mountains of Jamaica as producing the best arabica beans in the world.

Trinidad, the jewel of Cuban tradition, has been on the Unesco World Heritage list since 1988. Established by the Spanish in 1514, the city is full of beautiful mansions, and the highest density of bars and restaurants in the country.

Try the 17th-century tavern known as La Canchánchara, and visit the Casa de la Trova (House of the Troubadours) the social and musical hub of the city.

Just north of Trinidad, explore the Valle de los Ingenios. Dozens of sugar mills once dotted this landscape and, today, a few relics of the era still survive.

The Torre Manaca Iznaga is 144 feet and 244 steps high. At the start of the 19th century, a rebellion by slaves in neighbouring Haiti caused the sugar barons to flee to Cuba where they built watchtowers such as this one to keep an eye out for possible insurrection.

Sanctí Spíritus is the unspoiled, goodFebruary // 2015

Trinidad, the jewel of Cuban tradition, has been on the Unesco World Heritage list since 1988

WHERE TO STAY Havana’s finest hotel is the Iberostar Parque Central, which has charming colonial architecture and a rooftop pool. In Trinidad, the Iberostar Grand Hotel is another five-star gem that welcomes children aged 15 and over. To book, visit dnatatravel.com or call +971 4 316 6666

looking and relaxed face of Cuba. La Iglesia Parroquia Mejor del Sanctí Spíritus is claimed to be the oldest surviving place of worship in Cuba. Sanctí Spíritus is also a good place to sample Cuban specialities such as fresh coconuts and churros (deepfried dough).

If you do like to be beside the seaside, drive out across the Atlantic along el Pedraplen – an impressive causeway that extends out from the shore near Remedios to connect a string of small islands and provide a platform for a new playground for holidaymakers.

The first development was on Cayo las Brujas – meaning ‘Isle of The Witches’.

With an ocean breeze and the tropical sun setting in the west at the end of a glorious day, together with the prospect of being lulled to sleep by the Atlantic’s waves, it is the perfect place to break a journey.

Santa Clara would be a pleasant but unremarkable city in central Cuba were it World Traveller

not for one event that marked the climax of the revolutionary struggle.

By late December 1958, Fidel Castro and his fellow rebels had fought their way from the south-east of the island to the centre. Che Guevara led the rebels to victory in the decisive Battle of Santa Clara, and was revered for his part in the triumph of the revolution.

Guevara became the minister of banking and industry for the new government in Havana. But he had always vowed to fight injustice in Latin America and by 1967 was in Bolivia seeking to spark revolution there.

He never returned to Cuba; he was captured and, on 8 October 1967, was shot dead. Three decades later, his remains were brought to Santa Clara to be interred alongside his comrades at the Plaza de la Revolución – a sombre place to contemplate Che’s enduring influence on Cuba and the world.

Opposite page: Vintage American car parked in Havana Centro;. This page, from top: Plaza Mayor, Trinidad; harvesting tobacco leaves in the Viñales valley.

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February // 2015

Montenegro

SITTING ON THE DOCK OF THE BAY

Former military bases in the tiny Adriatic nation of Montenegro are being transformed into swish marinas and five-star resorts.

Mark Jones visits three of the latest developments

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here are a lot of people trying to sell you Montenegro. Kotor Bay, an inlet on its short Adriatic coast, is possibly the most heavily marketed corner of Europe at the moment. But the one person who really sold me on the place wasn’t a hotelier, a developer, a billionaire investor, or a real-estate mogul, but a marine biologist.

I bumped into Dr Deborah Brosnan from Virginia Tech University in the unlikely setting of an art gallery party at Porto Montenegro, a swish marina development near the town of Tivat.

Among the beautiful people with pitchperfect tans and Prada blazers, it was a pleasant surprise to meet someone ready and eager to talk about molluscs and jellyfish. But then all good marine biologists dream of visiting Montenegro, it turns out.

“It’s a hotspot of biodiversity,” Deborah explained. “There are 42,000 fish species here and completely different eco-systems from one cove to the next.”

You hear a lot of big figures here, mainly the sort with dollar signs in front of them.

But eye-popping varieties of marine life you don’t expect in this easterly channel of the poor, denuded Mediterranean.

Yet what drew the Deborah Brosnans is the same thing that enticed Canadian billionaire Peter Munk, financier Nat Rothschild, hotelier Sol Kerzner and others to Kotor Bay: topography – or what Lord Byron described as “the most beautiful encounter of land and sea”.

We saw it first when we stopped the car on a bucolic winding hill road just over the border from Bosnia. We looked over Boka Bay, the geological bulge that ends in the town of Kotor. The Boka – derived from the Italian for mouth – itself is a narrow inlet that flows into Europe’s most southerly fjord. From above, it looks like the world’s most sublime jigsaw puzzle.

Even if it’s not technically a fjord (the February // 2015

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Montenegro

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deep gash in the earth was created by an ancient river – glaciers didn’t make it this far) Kotor Bay is quite fjordish enough for most tastes. Vertiginous rock faces plunge straight into deep, still waters in that Byronic encounter. You really would think you’d taken a Hurtigruten to Storfjorden or somewhere.

But these are Balkan hills, so instead of thick pines, you get pale limestone with patches of cypress and oak. The sun beats down on red-tiled roofs and grave Venetian villas. You don’t see many monasteries in the middle of a Norwegian fjord. Here there are two: Saint George (for boys) and Our Lady of the Rocks monastery (for girls) that sit like cloistered Alcatrazes protected by their sentinel cypresses.

Cruise ships and day-trippers pour in, but there are superyachts, too. More and more of them. “We had a 137m come in and have a little snoop around the other day,” said John Stephens, who manages the marina at Porto Montenegro. That length is definitely in super-yacht territory and Montenegro is now assuredly on their charts. Super-yacht building has actually outpaced the growth of deep-water berths able to accommodate them. So Kotor Bay’s fjord-like depths are ideal for skippers looking to entice their clients away from

the overcrowded harbours of the Riviera and Italian Adriatic.

However, you need more than deep water. There’s the R and R side to think about and Kotor Bay is thinking about it to the extent of €287m. Porto Montenegro is the first of three planned luxury developments designed for the seafarer and swish mini-break crowds – and their thirsty yacht crews.

It’s been constructed on the crumbling remains of a Yugoslavian naval base. And in a hedonistic spot where Russians and Europeans compete to be top touristic dog, reminders of a bleaker contest have been preserved.

Cold War munitions are on show in the Naval Heritage Museum. Alongside it, they have preserved the P-821 Hero submarine. Visitors in their flip flops and espadrilles peer into its pokey depths, then emerge blinking to stroll over to the lido with its infinity pools and exquisitely-lit rooftop restaurant. That’s Porto Montenegro: from Cold War to chillout zone in three not-always-easy decades.

The development finished. The marina is full. John Stephens says the economics work like a hotel’s: a couple of presidential suites for glamour and prestige – the super-yacht mooring points – and the real

If you had to design a town for a short cruise stopover, you’d probably end up with Kotor

February // 2015

Opening page: The fjord-like Bay of Kotor.

This page, clockwise from top left: The tiny islet of Sveti Stefan, home to the Aman hotel; The old town in Kotor; Harbourside restaurant in Kotor.

Opposite page, from top: The indoor swimming pool at Regent Porto Montenegro Hotel; A bedroom in the same hotel; Porto Montenegro marina.

WHERE TO STAY In the heart of the new marina in Tivat, Regent Porto Montenegro boasts excellent views from every room. In Kotor, the elegant Hotel Vardar is situated on the Main Square of the UNESCO-protected old town. For more information, visit dnatatravel.com or call +971 4 316 6666.

World Traveller

revenue-generators: 245 standard and junior-suite berths for sensible boats.

There is a real hotel too. The Taipei-based Regent Hotel has opened its second European property in Porto Montenegro: an elegant, pale yellow palace of terraces, walkways and formal gardens.

Sitting having breakfast at Al Posto Giusto on the quayside at Porto Montenegro, I had a little glimpse of the effect the outbreak of luxury developments is having here. A couple of local ladies in jeans tottered along the quay bearing bouquets and arrangements. There would be a procession of such ladies over the course of the day. It’s a great time to be a florist in Montenegro; the arriving yachts all like a few fresh blooms in their cabin after their voyages. The hotels and restaurants need flowers; so do the apartment owners.

Later that day I took a small boat and skimmed across the bay to the Unescoprotected town of Kotor. If you had to design a town for a short cruise stopover, you’d probably end up with Kotor. It has a dramatic location beneath the nearly overhanging limestone cliffs of Orjen and Lovcen mountains and you can exercise those sea legs by trekking up to yet another monastery at the summit of the Napoleon-era fortifications. Less energetic cruise people simply wander for an hour around the medieval streets, gawp at a palace and the Cathedral of Saint Tryphon, eat pizza, wander around the small museum – then back on board.

Done.

If it seems all a bit CGI, all fresh paint and newly quarried stone, that’s

because much of it is. An earthquake in 1979 wrecked half the medieval town and much of the fine Venetian heritage.

But the small church of Sant Lucas was untouched. And beyond here, in the quieter northern part of the small town, you find upscale little shops selling rocks, candles and original art and a really excellent boutique hotel, the Hippocampus.

A short drive along the coast through pretty Perast – a town that’s like the concentrated essence of Montenegro – you come to another disused naval base which will shortly become known to the five-star world as Portonovi. This is where Sol Kerzner’s One and Only resort, funded by $500m of Azerbaijani money, is scheduled to open in 2016. As well as 550 ‘luxury residences’ and the inevitable marina, shops and swish restaurants, there’ll be a tennis academy, ‘eco-park’, congress centre, a Henri Chenot spa – in short, everything a holidaying plutocrat would expect and some things they may not.

Over the bay beyond Tivat, on the more rugged, beachy side, is the final member of our triumvirate, Lustica Bay. This development around a golf course and another marina, is pitched as a sustainable replica of a real Montenegran village.

Great architectural pains are being taken to preserve the character of the area and that means Venetian towers, red-roofed villas, cypresses and village squares. And yes, it’s another former military base.

After two separate trips to the Bay of Kotor, I’m still not entirely sure where I’ve been. It’s part Norwegian grandeur, part Swiss wellness retreat, part Monaco honeypot. It’s the product of a peace dividend to end them all. Only 20 years ago, the area was a sideshow in the nastiest war to afflict Europe in modern times. If the military legacy is now being erased by the designer’s airbrush – well, you can only call that progress.

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As Seen on Screen

AS SEEN ON SCREEN

As the 87th Academy Awards take place in L.A. this month, WT looks at some of the world’s most famous movie locations

Times Square, New York

The Big Apple is a screen legend in its own right and flashy Times Square, the intersection of Broadway and Seventh Avenue, has been the backdrop for numerous films, from Taxi Driver and Midnight Cowboy to I Am Legend and Vanilla Sky. The yellow cabs, neon-lit signs and soaring skyscrapers of the square also star in one of this year’s most hotly tipped Oscar contenders, Birdman. In one scene, actor Michael Keaton gets locked out of Broadway’s St. James theatre and has to walk through Times Square wearing only his underpants.

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Ouarzazate, Morocco

This southern city marks the starting post of many a tourist trek through the Sahara and is also the hub for Morocco’s international film industry. One of the first films to be shot here was Lawrence of Arabia in the early 1960s. Atlas Studios opened in 1983 and has been kept busy ever since, with films such as The Jewel of the Nile, The Mummy, Gladiator, Kingdom of Heaven and Babel filmed here. The World Heritage-listed Aït Benhaddou is one of the most popular locations; its historic, red-walled medina recently doubled for Yunkai in Game of Thrones.

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As Seen on Screen

New Zealand

Ever since Peter Jackson’s first The Lord of the Rings movie was released in 2001, New Zealand has been known as the ‘Home of Middle-earth’. Blessed with golden plains, towering mountains and ancient glaciers, more than 150 locations throughout the North and South Islands were used to film The Lord of the Rings and The Hobbit trilogies. With the final instalment of the latter released last December, Middle-earth tourism is still going strong. The Hobbiton film set (pictured) near Matamata on the North Island expects to welcome 300,000 visitors in 2015.

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Rome, Italy

The Eternal City has been the setting for many memorable movies, from Roman Holiday to The Talented Mr Ripley, and film fans will find information panels dotted all over, explaining which scenes were shot where. One of cinema’s most iconic scenes was shot at the Trevi Fountain, when blonde bombshell Anita Ekberg waded into the water in Federico Fellini’s 1960 classic, La Dolce Vita. According to legend, by throwing a coin into the Baroque masterpiece, you will one day return to Rome.

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Leopard Safari

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February // 2015

Spot Sophie Lam heads to a pioneering safari camp in Rajasthan

boundaries the

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Leopard Safari

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hich are more conspicuous – stripes or spots? This was the question I mulled over on the drive through southern Rajasthan towards Jawai. A previous visit to India had taken me into Jungle Book territory at a critical time for the nation’s tiger population. A temporary ban would soon come into force, prohibiting tourism in tiger reserves, and even though I’d been able to access two of Madhya Pradesh’s finest – Pench and Kanha – I’d been warned not to expect to see the increasingly threatened big cats.

Miraculously, an adult female obliged – perhaps in some way a cry for help not to lock the gates and leave her to the mercy of poachers. While I’d been extremely fortunate, the small population of leopards remained elusive, preferring to hunt during the cool of night. So, as I bumped over the scrubby, sun-baked tracks towards Jawai Leopard Camp, I decided to focus on the landscape, rather than the headline wildlife this time.

The camp reopened last autumn for its second season at the lip of the Aravali Hills. It is owned by Sujan, the same pioneering company that introduced the luxury safari camp concept to Ranthambore National Park with Sher Bagh in 2000 – Rajasthan’s most popular park for tiger safaris. Sujan’s owner, Jaisal Singh, grew up in a family of conservationists and saw a unique opportunity at Jawai. It is a region thought to have a population of between 40-50 leopards, one of the densest in India.

Crucially though, this isn’t a national park – its name flows from a local lake where flamingos decorate the water like lotus flowers.

I hopped into one of Jawai’s customised 4x4s to complete the final approach with South African naturalist guides Adam and Nicky. The absence of gates or fences was notable. “The land isn’t protected,” Adam would later explain. Singh spent February // 2015

a neat patchwork of sesame and mustard saplings. Bundles of maize were being gathered up by timid farmers, as curious of us as we were of them. Nomadic Rabari herdsmen in alabaster-white tunics and dhotis (trousers), with blood-red turbans ushered sheep along the sandy tracks as their camels nibbled at neem trees, the

The moon had disappeared from sight, revealing a necktilting display of diamond freckles saturating the indigo-ink sky

Opening page: Jawai Leopard Camp.

Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Tents are adorned with owner Jaisal Singh’s photography; Breakfast with a view; A female leopard. This page: A safari car on the lookout for leopards; one of the luxurious tents.

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considerable time surveying the landscape before choosing the 20-acre location for his latest luxury camp. He settled on a picturesque plot framed by two beehivelike hills and little else. For now, his remains the only such camp.

Unlike the jungles of Ranthambore and the parks of Madhya Pradesh, the setting here is prettily pastoral. Crops are sown in renegade fashion during the mercilessly brief fertile period after the monsoon.

I’d arrived to witness it in full flourish.

The fields were seemingly organised into

only traffic I’d see during my stay.

As we drove slowly past hedges of yellowspeckled euphorbia, our slipstream made the sound of gushing water through the succulents: an aural delusion of sorts, since the fierce sun was hard at work baking the land.

Life at camp was no less ravishing. The dozen air-conditioned tents are tucked into tall grasses, their white canvas concealing supremely luxurious living quarters – power showers, king-size beds, double sinks and Wi-Fi, all as sleekly monochrome as the black and white canvases that hint at Singh’s skill for wildlife photography. A female leopard, captured tantalisingly close up, gazed at February // 2015

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Leopard Safari

me from above the bed. It was going to be difficult to avoid pinning my hopes on seeing one.

Happily, there was Colin. The Scottish geologist had arrived in India with Nicky, his girlfriend, the previous day – she from Singita Game Reserve in South Africa, he from an expedition ship in Antarctica.

And when it came to rocks, Colin was bordering on delirium. While Nicky tried to explain leopards’ natural rhythms and social structure, he spritzed our evening safari drive with outcries of astonishment and awe, explaining how the landscape here was far older than the Aravali hills that surrounded us. Hundreds of millions

With the aid of some binoculars, I could just make out the silhouette of her cub of years old in fact, the granite forming by the slow cooling of magma that gives the rock its granular, sometimes sparkling appearance. “You come here to see leopards, but the hills have been here far longer – without them there would be no leopards,” he teased. We drove through the village of Sena, and past the Oval where a game of cricket was taking place to the rapturous applause of babblers, whose communal chirruping sounded like a flock of electric sheep; a crocodile made ripples in the lake as we approached the

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shore. At Devgiri rock, a priest was locking up his temple, created in a great fissure where the leopard above my bed had been photographed. “They’re seen as guardians,” Nicky explained, as I pondered how man and beast seemingly co-exist in mutual respect here.

After the sun had dipped below the horizon – sending the babblers, bee-eaters, hoopoes, rollers and peacocks skywards – as it stole its warmth away, we got lucky.

Stationed at the foot of Dewvgiri rock, we waited patiently, entertained by a troupe of dancing langurs while Nicky’s torch scanned the surface until two flashes of reflective tapetum lucidum revealed our target. A female leopard was emerging for the night. These shy creatures retreat to the cool of the caves during the day; she had more reason to do so, revealed by two more flashes by her side. With the aid of some binoculars, I could just make out the silhouette of her cub.

After a sublime supper of Rajasthani lamb lal maas curry and Indian cabernet sauvignon lit by candles, lanterns and moonlight back at the camp, I felt I’d barely slept before my alarm went off for the dawn drive. The moon had disappeared from sight, revealing a neck-tilting display of diamond freckles saturating the indigoink sky. The sounds and smells were more intense in the dark, cattle and sheep replaced by skittish nilgai bulls, foxes and solitary owls. This time, it was Colin who spotted it, melting into his beloved rocks as the sun gradually revealed its form close to where we’d left its mother the previous evening. Innocently looking out across the landscape as farmers returned to work, the

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Leopard Safari Previous page: The camp at night. This page, from top: A leopard spots something in the distance; The communal drawing room; The view from the camp’s pool.

Opposite page, from top: Guests relax while on safari; A private dining experience under the stars.

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The dozen air-conditioned tents are tucked into tall grasses, their white canvas concealing supremely luxurious living quarters

big eyes signalled one of the cubs, waiting for its mother to return.

Having now seen two generations of leopard, it was easy to relax into the arcadian rhythms of the countryside, breathing in the sweet scent of the crops, listening to the birds, feeling the cool air as it gradually warmed with the dawn, waving to the children who rushed out to greet our 4x4 each time we drove through the village. One of the huge benefits to the visitor of there being no fences or permits is that there’s no queueing up at park gates and nature drives can be spontaneous.

And since Jawai is, for now, the only camp to have set up here, there is only a maximum of six cars out at one time.

On our final evening, Varun, the camp’s field operations manager, took me out on another drive. “This time we’ll give the leopards a rest,” he explained as we threaded through the fields up to a towering rock above Sena. On the demanding hike up, we passed shepherds and their flocks on the lower flanks, the evening babble of children and bleating sheep gradually getting louder as we gained height. A flag marked out a shrine World Traveller

at the crest, where I turned around to take in the view. The village, home to around 1,500 residents spread out at the foot of the rock, the lake streaked rose gold and copper behind it. Rising between the two was Devgiri rock, home to our family of leopards, closer to the village than I was now.

Varun explained that the leopards prey mostly on peacocks, only occasionally taking a sheep or goat – and even then, this is considered auspicious; because the cats often seek out temples, they are regarded as holy custodians. This is resonant, given that in other parts of India, big cat attacks often result in revenge killings. It’s also where Jawai comes in – the camp now has the responsibility of helping to monitor and conserve their population, as well as operating sensitively in what was previously an un-touristed region.

That night we brewed a pot of chai, which we drank cross-legged by candlelight. It was an evocative end to the rarest of experiences, which could only have been enhanced had a leopard arrived to keep guard at the door.

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Iconic West of England

Iconic

WEST OF ENGLAND

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Spanning the picturesque Avon Gorge, the Clifton Suspension Bridge is a symbol of Bristol. Many of designer Isambard Kingdom Brunel’s peers insisted that the radical new type of bridge would never stand, but 151 years later it remains as strong as ever.

There is a secret walkway on the Clifton side which leads to a viewing area that reveals the city below.

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Iconic West of England

Land’s End is at the very tip of Cornwall’s southernmost edge, and marks the end of the country. For centuries, the walk from Land’s End to John O’ Groats (the northernmost point of Scotland) has been a popular challenge for hardy souls.

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Regularly voted one of the finest historic sites in Northern Europe, the Roman Baths in the quaint city of Bath attract a million visitors a year, who take the opportunity to do as the Romans did in the warm mineral waters.

February // 2015

Stonehenge is a prehistoric monument located in Wiltshire, and is one of the most famous and mysterious sites in the world. Archaeologists think it was built as long ago as 3000 BC, yet can offer no explanation as to how the huge rock formation was physically assembled. It’s a breathtaking link to another world and another time.

High up on the escarpment of Salisbury Plain is the Westbury White Horse. It lies just below an Iron Age hill fort, and is believed to commemorate King Alfred’s victory at the Battle of Eòandun. The horse is made of chalk, with edging stones to keep it in place, and is one of 13 dotting the area.

However, the Westbury horse is the highest and largest, making it the most iconic of all.

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Portugal

Take me to the

river

A cruise along Portugal’s once-wild Duoro river left an indelible impression on Gabriella Le Breton

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Your garden is a piece of paradise,” I say to Augusto as we stand in dappled light overlooking the Douro river. “Ne rigole pas!”, he responds earnestly in French, the common language we have found in this little patch of Portugal.

“C’est vrai,” - it is true, I say: his orange trees droop with fruit and lettuces flourish in the shade of the trees’ trunks. Separating the garden from the torpid Douro is a fence that is all but hidden beneath a tangle of roses and vines. Spotting me admiring his garden, Augusto had invited me in and now presses an armful of oranges into my hands, refusing payment. In a country where the impoverished middle class have become known as the “embarrassed poor”, his generosity is touching.

During my five days in Portugal I have come to accept warm, spirited hospitality as the norm. During my leisurely 125mile voyage up the Douro from Porto February // 2015

to the Spanish border, I have also grown accustomed to the sight of steep terraced vineyards lined by tender young vines and dotted with quintas (farms), and olive and almond groves carpeted with poppies, lavender and buttercups.

Had I been navigating the 600-milelong ‘river of gold’ 100 years ago, my journey would have been infinitely less gentle. First mapped in 1848 by an Englishman, Baron Forrester, the Douro flows from northern Spain through north-eastern Portugal, and used to be a turbulent, raging waterway. In addition to claiming the life of Forrester, the Douro also drowned countless sailors as they transported port produced on its shores to the 18th-century warehouses of Vila Nova de Gaia, across the river from Porto.

Sailing in flat-keeled, square-rigged rabelo boats carrying up to 50 barrels of port, the men battled with rapids, narrow gorges and rocky shallows, alternatively sailing, rowing and being pulled by teams of oxen

through particularly challenging sections.

When I first caught sight of these traditional Portuguese cargo boats bobbing on the Douro I was oblivious to the heroic struggles they had witnessed.

Yet the final destination of those early sailors, the Cais de Gaia (Gaia Quay), whose 18th-century warehouses are emblazoned with familiar names - Taylor’s, Graham’s, Sandeman, Cockburn’s - was the starting point of my voyage.

During my five days in Portugal I have come to accept warm, spirited hospitality as the norm

Opening page: The Douro at night.

Opposite page, from top: The view from the window of the Queen Isabel; cafe culture in Ribeira. This page, from top: Steep terraced vineyard line the Douro; Mandarins.

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Thus, as we crossed the river on the arched iron Dom Luis I bridge, my attention was drawn away from Porto’s medieval Ribeira district, a huddle of fishing houses with pretty tiled façades tucked into the steep northern bank of the Douro, to the opposite shore, where I tried to glimpse my floating home for the next week: the Queen Isabel. Launched in Spring 2013, she is possibly the most luxurious ship on the Douro (although some may also favour the refurbished Spirit of Chartwell). Currently chartered by the river cruise line Uniworld, the 116-passenger ship is small in comparison with other European river boats, her size determined by the Douro’s relatively short and narrow (although remarkably deep) locks. Cabins are compact, but have sufficient storage and well-sized bathrooms. While cabins on the second deck have french balconies, the 20 suites on the third deck boast full balconies - common on ships on the Douro yet a rarity on other European waterways.

Equally rare is the almost exclusively local crew.

The following morning, blue skies were the backdrop for a guided tour of Porto - known to the English as Oporto, a misnomer thought to be the result of early travellers hearing locals say “Bou ó Porto”, meaning “I’m going to Porto.”

Those who had joined the excursion were whisked through the bohemian university quarter to the lavish Palácio da Bolsa (Stock Exchange Palace). The Arabian room is the most ornate in the palace, an impressive oval-shaped hall showcasing the intricate glass and gold mosaic work typical of Moorish style.

That afternoon and the following morning were spent sailing, with a Portuguese language class (gratis) detracting from pool time on the sun deck.

Reaching Régua, we attended a talk about February // 2015

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the region at the Museu do Douro (Douro Museum) before driving to Mateus Palace, a handsome country house. Pressing on through rolling, vine-striped countryside, we enjoyed a traditional dinner served in the family owned Quinta da Avessada.

Having rejoined the Queen Isabel in the pretty town of Pinhão after dinner, we made an early start the following morning.

Winding along and above the Douro, we reached Quinta do Seixo, a longestablished vineyard burrowed on a hill among olive trees and pillows of lavender, thyme and rosemary and overlooking terraced vineyards, Pinhão and the river.

The Douro forms the backbone of the valley named after it, yet it’s the socalcos, stone-walled, terraced vineyards hewn into the steep slopes flanking the river, that have earned it Unesco World Heritage status. Looking down from the lofty quinta, and from the Queen Isabel’s sun deck as we sailed upstream into the Alto Douro (Upper Douro) later that afternoon, we could see the product of more than 2,000 years of human labour laid out before us: row upon row of socalcos follow the sinuous contours of the valley, moulding a unique landscape with its own microclimate.

Occasionally an abandoned socalco, known as a mortório, overgrown by oleanders and wild flowers, breaks the geometric patterns of manicured vines, harking back to the 19th century devastation of the phylloxera plague.

Whitewashed quintas pepper the landscape, their names emblazoned in large black letters and, dotted between them, tiny white chapels, which were erected above the most treacherous stretches of the Douro to honour those who lost their lives to it. The chapels and mortórios are a poignant reminder that, in the ongoing battle waged between man and nature in the Douro Valley, man isn’t always victorious.

This applies particularly to the rugged Alto Douro area, where manicured vineyards give way to slender gorges and lichen-encrusted cliffs housing griffon vultures on the approach to the Spanish border. Crossing the border that evening, we moored at a tiny place called Vega de Térron, the launching point on the Douro for Salamanca.

It was a long coach ride at just under two hours, but the scenery in the International Douro Natural Park (it straddles both Spain and Portugal) and across the fields of the Iberian meseta, or plateau, to Salamanca is unusually wild and rugged, with dramatic gorges flanking the river, wide pastures carpeted with wild flowers (poppies, lavender, cowslip) and large fields dotted with ancient oak trees.

If there is a downside it would be that there wasn’t always enough time spent in each place. As is often the way with river cruises, unless you dock in a city or town, you spend more time getting to places February // 2015

I had grown accustomed to the sight of olive and almond groves carpeted with poppies, lavender and buttercups

than you do enjoying them. And, with our group particularly, the drive seemed to be determined more by getting back to the ship for dinner at 6pm than on spending time exploring, which seems a shame, although not having quite enough time in each place merely makes me want to return.

Back in Portugal, the sight of the sun on the snow-capped peaks of the Cantabrian Mountains inspired me to take a preprandial stroll in Barca d’Alva, where we rejoined Queen Isabel. Laden down with Augusto’s oranges I strolled back to the ship, where I could see passengers enjoying aperitifs on the top deck and their balconies.

Our final day saw us return to Porto for an afternoon in the historic city of Guimarães, Portugal’s first capital and birthplace of the nation. By now, and as with Baron Forrester, the Douro had meandered deep into my heart.

This page, from top: Vineyards in the Douro Valley; The historic town of Guimarães.

Opposite page, clockwise from top left: A suite on the Queen Isabel; the colourful city of Porto; The Queen Isabel navigating the 600-mile-long ‘river of gold’.

WHERE TO STAY Before boarding a river cruise, be sure to spend a few days in Porto. Housed in a newly renovated 18th-century palace, Intercontinental Porto Palacio Das Cardosas is close to the Unesco World Heritage-listed Ribeira District and features 105 large and luxurious rooms. In the business district, Sheraton Porto Hotel & Spa has 266 modern rooms and suites and a great spa with pools, sauna, hammam and VIP rooms.

For more information, visit dnatatravel.com or call +971 4 316 6666.

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Weekends

ROM A NCE SPECI A L

Everything you need to know about short-haul escapes

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Where to woo your Valentine

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Six of the best romantic dining destinations

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Perfect poolside pageturners

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February // 2015

WEEKENDS

Love Match This month… love is in the air

CULTURE

CLUB

There’s plenty of cultural fare to fill your February in Abu Dhabi this month

VERSUS

Valentine’s Day in Abu Dhabi can be celebrated in many ways

BRANCH OUT Set off on your dedicated speedboat to Zaya Nurai Island for an exclusive, four course dinner getaway on Saturday, February 14. zayanuraiisland.com

CHILL OUT

Customise your very own Romantic Spa Escape for you and your partner at the laid-back Anantara Eastern Mangroves. abu-dhabi.anantara.com

QASR AL HOSN FESTIVAL

The 2015 programme at the Qasr Al Hosn Fort celebrates traditional Emirati heritage, and revives important moments that took place on the Fort grounds.

ABU DHABI FOOD FESTIVAL

Three separate events (Gourmet Abu Dhabi, Emirati Kitchen and StreetFeast) are happening this month, celebrating food from street trucks to five-star dining.

Three hotels have special Gourmet Abu Dhabi themed dinners:

Pie Festival at Stills Bar and Brasserie, Crowne Plaza Abu Dhabi Yas Island February 11 – 20

BEACH RETREAT The St. Regis Abu Dhabi is in the vibrant heart of the city, right on the Corniche. It boasts private beach access, and great couples activities. stregisabudhabi.com

CITY SUITE

Aloft Abu Dhabi is a super-cool hangout for the young and beautiful. The Aloft suites have huge windows to let in loads of natural light. aloftabudhabi.com

Kebab from around the world at Barouk, Crowne Plaza Abu Dhabi Yas Island February 11 – 20

Benjarong culinary journey at Benjarong, Dusit Thani Abu Dhabi February 5 – 14

Burster Tail at Grand Canal / The Forge, The Ritz-Carlton Abu Dhabi February 12 – 14

Find out more at abudhabifoodfest.ae

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DINE INDOORS Le Royal Meridien Abu Dhabi was recently refurbed and also features Stratos, the city’s only revolving restaurant. leroyalmeridienabudhabi.com

DINE AL FRESCO At Mijana, found at the Ritz Carlton Abu Dhabi, guests can gaze into each other’s eyes on a starlit terrace to the sounds of a live band. ritzcarlton.com

RAISE THE HEART RATE

ARRIVE IN STYLE: The best way to stand out in the city is behind the wheel of a supercar. HDS Rent A Car have just added the stunning BMW i8 to their roster of luxury rental vehicles, which already includes the Bentley GTC, Lamborghini Aventador and Ferrari 458 Spider. hdsrentacar.com

February // 2015

Yas Marina’s Stand Up Paddle Boarding Day is on Friday, February 27, and sees a massive 10km race take place around the Marina. Plus, experts Watercooled will be offering SUP clinics throughout the day for a reduced fee.

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Idyllic Islands Escape to paradise this month at one of these tropical islands

The Maldives Kuda Bandos Island is owned by the Bandos Island Resort, which is on the island next door.

Kuda Bandos is totally uninhabited and can be walked around in just 20 minutes.

WIN!

Do men still give ĆƒQYGTU! ;QW ECP YKVJ ĆƒQYGTU CG

Sir Bani Yas Closer to home is Anantara Sir Bani Yas Al Yamm in Abu Dhabi. Its stunning luxury villas overlook the water and the mangroves for which the region is famous.

Seychelles La Digue Island Lodge stands alongside the Anse Reunion beach. Its tropical gardens contain coconut palms, takamaka trees and a riot of LĂ€Âˆ}Â…ĂŒ yÂœĂœiĂ€ĂƒÂ°

Sri Lanka Originally built in the 1920s, Taprobane Island is a two-and-a-half acre tropical fantasy. Its only ĂƒĂŒĂ€Ă•VĂŒĂ•Ă€i ÂˆĂƒ > wĂ›i‡Li`Ă€ÂœÂœÂ“ colonial house.

Make Valentine’s Day easy by winning a bouquet of Ă€ÂœĂƒiĂƒ vĂ€ÂœÂ“ yÂœĂœiĂ€ĂƒÂ°>i° To be in with a chance of winning, just tweet us @WT_Magazine with a picture of you and your loved one, and we’ll get in touch.

IN WITH THE NEW

Three fabulous new resorts all within easy reach for a love-fuelled getaway

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Manzil, Dubai Chic, boutique and thoroughly upscale, the rooms at Manzil Downtown Dubai have a contemporary Arabic design, with the luxury touches you’d expect from a Vida-managed property. vida-hotels.com

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Banana Island Resort, Doha Doha is arguably the Middle East’s hottest travel prospect, and the beautiful Banana Island Resort by Anantara takes full advantage of the unusual island shape. doha.anantara.com

ART Rotana, Bahrain Rising high amidst a group of man-made islands with panoramic views of the Gulf’s turquoise waters, this inspiring development pays tribute to the splendor of Arabian art and stays true to the warmth and hospitality of the Bahraini culture. rotana.com

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SIX of the BEST

ROMANTIC DINING DESTINATIONS

Treat your partner to a meal at one of these spectacular spots this Valentine’s Day

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1. Ithaa Undersea Restaurant at Conrad Maldives Rangali Island

It’s regularly voted as one of the most beautiful restaurants in February // 2015

the world, and it’s easy to see why. Ithaa means “mother of pearl” in the Maldivian language of Dihevi, and serves stunning contemporary European cuisine in a six-course set dinner menu. Of course, the real stars of the dinner are the tropical

fish that swim overhead and around the restaurant - Ithaa sits five metres below the surface of the water, offering stunning 180-degree panoramic views of the coral gardens and underwater wildlife. conradmaldives.com

2. Eauzone at One&Only Royal Mirage, Dubai

Eauzone is place to contemplate the rhythm of ocean tides and enjoy watching the sunset

with your loved one. The restaurant is one of Dubai’s most romantic, and is set on the beach surrounded by palm trees. The best spots to dine are on the floating “majlis” which overlook the Arabian Gulf and

shimmering pool.

For Valentine’s Day, the restaurant puts out a stunning a la carte menu that is sure to please lovebirds. royalmirage.oneandonlyresorts. com

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3.Sunrise breakfast at Six Senses Zighy Bay

Located on the northern Musandam Peninsula in Oman, Zighy Bay is one of the most secluded and romantic holiday spots in the whole of the Middle East. For Valentine’s Day they are offering a variety of romance packages including spa treatments, a sunset cruise and the opportunity for a beautiful sunrise breakfast at the tip of the resort’s rugged mountain, with the resort and the glittering blue sea far below you as you enjoy a fresh and delicious morning meal. sixsenses.com

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4. Mountaintop dining, Alila Jabal Akhbar

An almighty 2,000-metres above sea level, this fabulous resort overlooks the imposing Al Hajar mountain range. For a romantic couple looking for an adventurous getaway, it’s a truly stunning choice of venue for a Valentine’s Day treat. Dinner will be served overlooking the mountain’s edge, while spa treatments offer sumptuous comforts for a truly indulgent Valentine’s Day. alilahotels.com

5. Treetop dining at Fregate Island Private

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High up in one of Fregate Island’s tallest banyan trees, the incredible Treehouse Restaurants awaits adventurous diners. You can pick your own ingredients for your special meal, and the chefs will prepare them to the highest standards as you enjoy a romantic dinner like no other. Fregate birds (after which the island was named) flit between branches as you enjoy the food and each other’s company, before a starlit walk around one of the private island’s seven beaches. oetkercollection.com

6. Beach Picnic at Banyan Tree Seychelles

Valentine’s Day isn’t just about dinner – there’s also lunch to be taken care of. This year Banyan Tree Seychelles is going for a James Bond feel with its “For Your Eyes Only” themed day for guests. One of the destination dining options is this simple yet premium beachside picnic, where your every culinary whim will be catered to as the waves gently lap at the shore. Best enjoyed as part of the resort’s Sense of Romance package. banyantree.com

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THE

QUICK READS

GREAT ESCAPE

Four poolside companions

KEMPINSKI HOTEL MALL OF THE EMIRATES I want to shop til I drop.

Then you’re in the right place. Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates is connected to one of Dubai’s most popular and luxurious malls. Inside you’ll find fashion boutiques from Chanel, Balmain and Dior, as well as luxury jewellers like Tiffany & Co, among others. Add in huge Bloomingdale’s and Harvey Nichols department stores and you’ve got a place where all your shopping needs will be met - and then some.

THE CLASSIC

What are the dining options like?

Apart from the extensive food options found in the Mall, the hotel itself has five great gourmet venues. K Grill gives local dishes a European twist; Aspen by Kempinski is one of the most popular spots for afternoon tea in Dubai; and Salero Tapas & Bodega explores Spanish gastronomy. There are also two fabulous bars for grown-up gatherings.

What are the nearby attractions?

Kempinski Mall of the Emirates is perfectly placed midway between the Downtown area of Dubai, and the trendy Marina. It’s just a ten minute drive away from the Palm Jumeirah too, so it’s ideal as a sightseeing base. Inside the mall, the world-famous Ski Dubai brings snowy slopes to the desert – it’s even got a family of real penguins.

Are they doing anything special for Valentine’s Day? Of course – just one of the many promotions is the opportunity to create your own signature spa treatment on the big day, at the hotel’s Softouch Spa. The 90-minute treatment will be customised to you and your partner’s desires, allowing you to pick and choose scrubs, massages and wraps to a value of AED1,200. Best of all, the deal is available all throughout February.

World Traveller

THE NEW RELEASE

The Girl on the Train by Paula Hawkins is a spiritual successor to 2013’s smash thriller Gone Girl.

Gripping and unputdownable.

Truman Capote’s In Cold Blood was published exactly 50 years ago and the true account of small-time murderers is just as compelling today.

Win!

World Traveller has teamed up with Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates to offer an amazing prize of a onenight stay for two people, including breakfast – worth a massive AED 4,759.

To be in with a chance of winning, answer this easy question: Which is a popular place at the hotel for afternoon tea?

A) Whisper B) Aspen C) Chamonix Email your answer to easywin@ hotmediapublishing.com before February 28. Terms and conditions apply to the prize.

FOR THE PARENTS

A family drama unfolds in A Spool of Blue Thread by Anne Tyler.

Protagonists Abby and Red see their family grow up and apart.

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FOR THE KIDS

YouTube star Kid President has just released his first book, the Guide to Being Awesome. Let his infectious personality spread joy to all.

February // 2015

WEEKENDS

SUITE DREAMS

It’s not all monkey business up in the trees What:

Treetop Suite Where:

Tsala Treetop Lodge, South Africa

About:

Set amidst the treetops of an ageold indigenous forest, Tsala Treetop Lodge is a lavish celebration of the spirit of Africa. Ten Treetop Suites are one-upped by six incredible

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February // 2015

Treetop Villas, which prove themselves irrisistible to those who appreciate unique architectural design, romance and adventure.

The suits are constructed of stone, wood and class and comprise a plush bedroom, elegant sitting

room and spacious bathroom. But of course, it’s not the interiors that will get the pulse racing - it’s the incredible forest all around you. The suite’s private deck extends into the forest and also contains a private infinity pool. tsala.hunterhotels.com

ABU DHABI CLASSICS INTERNATIONAL CONCERT SEASON

OCTOBER 2014 - MAY 2015 PERFORMANCE CALENDAR FEBRUARY 17th 2015

APRIL 29th 2015

MAY 28th 2015

Staatskapelle Dresden and Christian Thielemann

Orchestra Accademia Teatro alla Scala: Opera Gala

Bertrand Chamayou : Solo Piano Concert, The Wanderer

8:00pm

Al Qattara Arts Centre, Al Ain

8:00pm Pre-concert Talk at 6:00pm

8:00pm

Emirates Palace Auditorium

Al Jahili Fort, Al Ain

FEBRUARY 18th 2015

MAY 12th 2015

BOOK NOW!

Staatskapelle Dresden and Christian Thielemann

TCA Abu Dhabi Classics Music Awards

Tickets are available now from Ticketmaster.ae

8:00pm

7:30pm

Al Jahili Fort, Al Ain

Emirates Palace Auditorium

For more information visit abudhabievents.ae

APRIL 28th 2015

MAY 27th 2015

Orchestra Accademia Teatro alla Scala with Mikhail Tatarnikov (conductor) and David Fray (piano)

Bertrand Chamayou : Solo Piano Concert, Global Encounters

8:00pm Pre-concert Talk at 6pm

8:00pm

Emirates Palace Auditorium

Manarat Al Saadiyat Auditorium

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