World Traveller Jan'16

The Region’s BiggesT LuxuRy TRaveL Magazine

issue ninety Three | January 2016

offthe

Beaten Track

Produced in International Media Production Zone

Rainforests, islands & far-flung adventures

istanbul

Burst out of the backstreets and into the light

costa rica

Smouldering volcanoes, rising mist, sun-kissed skin

morocco

Surf around the souks and campfire under the stars

10dhs

?

Coffee Planet: the best coffee in the

universe

We spoke to Coffee Planet’s Roastmaster to find out...

You ensure to procure carefully sourced, high-quality Arabica beans.

Talk us through the selection process… What are some of the best destinations for the coffee connoisseur to visit?

As you may know, Coffee Planet only roasts premium graded 100% Arabica coffee beans; but we actually source our speciality varieties from more than 20 countries in Africa, Indonesia, India, Central and South America, which form part of a band surrounded by the Tropics of Capricorn and Cancer, known as ‘the bean belt’.

When it comes to the best destination for coffee connoisseurs to visit, there’s an abundance of really great places, but we would certainly suggest they be on the lookout for countries situated within the bean belt.

Discerning clients deserve a gourmet product that delivers in quality, every single time. How do elements of your brand – such as the dedicated roastery – accomplish this?

Producing quality coffee has always been and will remain Coffee Planet’s number one priority, which is why our beans are sourced directly from our farmers, to ensure full traceability. Also, Coffee Planet only roasts to order, meaning that our stock is always fresh.

We have been roasting in our own HACCP and UTZ Certified roastery facility in Dubai since 2008, to ensure that our highest quality beans receive the optimum roasting process. Our dedicated roastery team uses state-of-the-art roasting equipment to create the special blends and recipes in small batches, guaranteeing consistency and quality to lock the flavour into every bean.

Incidentally, we recently increased the size of our roastery from 6,000 square feet to 14,000 square feet, with the capacity to roast up to 100 tonnes of coffee per month, allowing us to produce even more great coffee.

The brand-DNA is ‘dare to be different’; in what way?

Our ‘dare to be different’ attitude is how Coffee Planet came about more than 10 years ago, and what continues to push us forward.

Starting right at the beginning, Coffee Planet assessed coffee drinking habits in the UAE and wider region, and identified what people wanted more of - simply: delicious coffee. We then invested a lot of time and resource to source the best beans from the bean belt, and set up our roastery (with stringent quality measures that we have continued to evolve to this day), to satisfy that demand.

roasting styles and a variety of brewing methods to appeal to multiple tastes.

Often in the Middle East, milk is not added to coffee, instead many of the blends are flavoured with spices such as cardamom, cloves, ginger, and saffron, and when you drink it you should be able to distinguish the different flavours and aromas.

That being said, coffee drinkers in the Middle East are increasing their knowledge of coffee sourcing techniques and coffee origins, creating a desire to try new flavour and blend profiles. We have also noticed a trend for speciality coffee, as drinkers are acquiring a discerning taste for high-quality coffee.

We are indeed a coffee-planet, with millions of people consuming coffee-products every day. How do they take their environment to the next level, and as an expert, what are some simple ways to get more from the tasting experience?

Enjoying coffee is more than a matter of taste - coffee drinkers may want to take their time sipping their brew, as well as giving their sense of smell ample time to do its work. As complex as coffee is, we react very strongly to the presence of smell.

The quality of the water being used is also extremely important. We would recommend using cold, filtered water. Since coffee is 98% water, the taste of the water will come through in the brew.

Also try to carefully consider how much caffeine you consume in any given day. Typically, caffeine will provide you with a brilliant boost, unless you drink too much. We would suggest not exceeding 5-6 espresso shots per day (or 500ml of brewed coffee per day) to not overdo your intake.

You’ve thoroughly enticed us…where in Dubai can we find your delectable roasts, to get our creamy coffee fix?

We have eight of our branded retail stores located in Dubai, Abu Dhabi and Sharjah, and we provide complete coffee solutions for a range of companies from hotels to offices and airlines.

We also have machines in more than 200 ADNOC petrol stations in Abu Dhabi, as well as selected ENOC and EPPCO stations, so it’s never been easier to get your Coffee Planet fix!

When it comes to the taste palate of patrons in the Middle East, what flavour complexities and beans have you observed to be the most popular?

The way Arab nationals drink coffee differs from how Europeans and Americans drink coffee in terms of taste, cup volume and method of preparation.

Not only do we source from different origins around the world to cater to this, we also feature a full range of coffee roast strengths,

coffeeplanet.com coffee@coffeeplanet.com T: +971 4 341 5537

January 2016 World Traveller

Managing Director

Victoria Thatcher Editorial Director

John Thatcher

Group Commercial Director

David Wade Editor

Chris Ujma Features Editor

Annie Darling Art Director

Andy Knappett Designer

Emi Dixon Illustrator

Andrew Thorpe Sales Manager

Lisa Price lisa@hotmediapublishing.com +971 4 375 3608 Production Manager

Editor’s Note Issue ninety three January 2016

New beginnings. The turn of the calendar brings with it fresh opportunity, especially when it comes to travel – there are new horizons to explore, sumptuous cuisine to savour, and miles of unwritten exploits in your future.

If you’re in need of inspiration, you’ve come to the right place: we’re kicking off 2016 with an issue chock-full of ideas for every suitcasesize, be it a weekend sojourn on the Middle Eastern doorstep, or an adventure on the other side of the globe, immersed in a fascinatingly-foreign culture.

Istanbulian intrigue (p48), Costa Rican jungle-trekking (54), the seductive novelty of Morocco (62), 10 on-trend regions (36), and plenty of awe-inspiring places inbetween… Whatever your preference, within these pages are perfect destinations to put you centre-stage of your very own unforgetaway. After all, the real ‘world traveller’ here is you.

Chris Ujma christopher@hotmediapublishing.com

Muthu Kumar

@wt_magazine

Cover: Western Sahara Desert, Africa

Jan-Jun 2015 | 22,984 | BPA Consumer Audit Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller.

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494

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Welcome Contents

Contents

The Sections

Check In 8 Be Here Now

Get in festival fever, with South Carolinan oysters and four days of dancing in Puerto Rico.

Check In News and inspiration from around the world

13 Globetrotter

From vistas of an ancient wonder to up-close with nature on safari: it’s our latest must-sees that make the globe worth trotting.

22 Chef’s Top Tables Destinations In-depth travel features to fuel your wanderlust

Brian Voelzing goes to three corners of the globe for his examples of culinary mastery.

24 Spotlight On: Buenos Aires

The steaks are high as summer climes hit South America’s tango capital.

Weekends Everything you need to know about short-haul escapes 6

27 Style & Wellness

Spa news, plus fashion and tech accessories; make your upcoming excursion that little bit more stylish.

January 2016 World Traveller

Destinations

Weekends

36 The Trending 10

70 One Weekend For All: Munich

48 A Festival of Light in Darkness

72 Big Five: New Year’s Resolutions

54 Toucan Play That Game

75 Staycations

62 Family Matters

80 Suite Dreams

Add these destinations to your itinerary, and stamp your passport in our ten places that are bursting with travel potential for the 12 months ahead.

East meets west and so much more, on a captivating romp through Istanbul.

Rainforest hikes, hazy mountains, four wheel drives, and yoga-stretched supermodels. An eye-opening trip to the paradise of Costa Rica.

Enticing families with its ‘something for all’ selection, Morocco puts glitz and glamour on the backburner. Explore the vibrant sights and sounds of Marrakech (and far beyond).

The city from all angles, whether you’ve got family in-tow, are chasing romance, craving adventure or looking to kickback and return home well-rested.

You’ve made your promises for 2016.

Here’s a handful of places to keep them.

Four hotels that prove there’s no need to leave the GCC to get away from it all and enjoy a weekend to remember.

Work out in the gym, catch a cinema flick, relax with a drink in comfort and see Abu Dhabi from an amazing level: the two-storey suite that has it all.

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Check In Be Here Now

Now

Be Here

San Juan, Puerto Rico

Established in 1521, San Juan boasts one of the biggest and best natural harbours in the Caribbean. A proverbial petri dish of history, creativity and exuberance, the old town is a mousetrap for the free and fun-loving. A hotbed for carousing travellers, the city often hosts boisterous parades and crazy celebrations. The San Sebastiรกn Street Festival (Fiestas de la Calle San Sebastiรกn) has been an annual event on Calle San Sebastiรกn since 1970. What started as a community fund-raiser has since become a popular four-day event, so get down to this tiny islet between January 14-17.

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January 2016 World Traveller

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Check In Be Here Now

Charleston, South Carolina

South Carolina is a state well-known for its all-American apple pie charm, mammoth road trips and great open skies.

January is the perfect time to visit because the weather is mild and crowds have thinned. Chock-full with historical sites and antebellum architecture, the vivacious city is as inventive as it is invigorated.

A booming restaurant scene has also put it on the map, so get a taste of the Lowcountry at the city’s oyster festival, which takes place January 31. With more than 80,000 pounds of oysters on hand, this is the largest of its kind worldwide.

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January April 2016 2015 World Traveller

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a picture perfect stay Discover a captivating destination on Abu Dhabi’s Corniche, where esteemed St. Regis heritage blends with Arabian sophistication.

Indulge in the extraordinary with the St. Regis Butler Service, access to Nation Riviera Beach Club, movie tickets at the adjoining VOX Nation Towers and breakfast.

From AED850++

reservations.abudhabi@stregis.com stregisabudhabi.com +971 2 694 4666

January 2016 World Traveller

Globetrotter Here’s what’s hot in travel this month…

Pyramids of Giza, Egypt

Admire the oldest Seven Wonder of the Ancient World the face of the pyramids would have shimmered white with Tura limestone, boasting an awe-inspiring appearance in the midst of the desolate desert.

Stay at: Mena House

Enveloped in 40 acres of lush green gardens, Mena House Hotel is guaranteed to impress with luxurious interior design, intricate gold decorations and exquisite antiques. Majestic views of the pyramids can be enjoyed from guestrooms; a truly spectacular sight during sunrise and sunset. menahousehotel.com

Mena House Hotel, Cairo

The royal pyramid complex features grandiose temples, impeccable geometry, and ceremonious causeways. Some timestrapped sightseers opt to bypass Cairo entirely, choosing instead to inspect tombs of the elite nobility and priesthood in a single day. But don’t miss out on the fun!

A marvel of human engineering, the pyramids’ sheer size rivals any piece of architecture standing. Built some 5,000 years ago for the Fourth Dynasty Pharaoh Khufu, they’re constructed out of stone blocks, each weighing at least two tons.

Scholars believe that when first completed,

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Check In Globetrotter

Wildlife Encounters

This month, discover January’s most heart-stirring animal experiences Penguins, Antarctica

Cheetahs, Namibia

White Rhinos, Kenya

Blue Whales, Sri Lanka

What to take: Although it’s the Antarctic summer, temperatures are likely to be at or below freezing.

Wear warm layers including thermals, hats, gloves and waterproof trousers.

What to take: During the winter, pack for cooler temperatures. Namibia is mostly desert, so take a strong rucksack that can hold all the essentials. Bring good shoes for walking and hiking.

What to take: Packing light is important when travelling around Kenya.

Luggage should be kept to a minimum because of strict weight and space restrictions on light aircraft.

What to take: Careful planning is essential when packing for a whalewatching trip. Take at least one pair of binoculars and a camera, in addition to a waterproof jacket or rain poncho.

In a world teeming with wanderlust, there’s one continent that remains beyond the average traveller’s grasp: Antarctica. Accessible until March, there are neither towns nor villages. Unpredictable wilderness greets those visiting this relentless destination. But what may surprise even the most experienced traveller is that each January, thousands of Gentoo and Adélie penguins gather for a feeding frenzy.

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Southwest Africa is home to a variety of wildlife, including a significant cheetah population.

Located halfway between Windhoek and the Etosha National Park, the Okonjima Game Reserve boasts some of the best safari lodges in Namibia. Well-known for their speed and agility, cheetahs are one of Africa’s most endangered big cats, but this doesn’t stop curious cubs from getting up close and personal.

Kenya’s safaris are arguably the country’s most popular assets. The phrase Hakuna Matata, as famed by the Walt Disney film The Lion King, is a phrase widely spoken here, and the country is home to the last three remaining white rhinos (Najin, Fatu and Sudan).

A surge in poaching for their horns has seen record numbers of their species killed, and all three now reside at the Ol Pejeta Conservancy.

If you want a holiday with a difference, why not opt for a blue whale safari? Tour guides often offer guests the opportunity to swim with the world’s largest mammals. Home to one of the largest concentrations of pygmy blue whales, this January you’ll always be in the right place at the right time for a close-up encounter. Why not grab a snorkel mask and explore Sri Lanka’s rich variety of marine life while you’re at it?

Check In Globetrotter

Specs Appeal

Reinventing the wheelie

Warning: you’re going to want the Bluesmart. Let’s roll through the features: GPS and 3G global tracking, in partnership with Telefonica, means this polycarbonate and aluminum case will never get lost; stray too far away and distance alerts are sent to the iOS or Android device it is paired with.

There’s an in-built scale within the handle, easy-access tablet pocket, an auto locking feature (TSA-friendly) to make keys a thing of the past, and its 10,000 mAh battery can charge your phone up to six times from either of the USB ports. The Kickstartered company purrs that the smart-connected luggage is “the most powerful carry-on in the world”, and quite literally, it won’t let you forget it. bluesmart.com Thai Temptation

Phuket: Rock-stars and Kata Rocks

It takes something special to entice the celebrity elite – a niche who want to be seen in the right places – to add to their clique of habitual travel haunts. How about being awarded ‘Best Apartment in the World’?

Yes, that should do it. The accolade is just one on the mantle of multi award-winning Kata Rocks Resort & Residences, and their blossoming reputation is causing society’s most-snapped to rethink their destination du jour. Positioned on Phuket’s west coast, ‘KR’ is trending with its portfolio of 43 sky

villas, each boasting uninterrupted sea views and infinity pools, complemented by private chefs, a luxury spa, and concierges to take care of yacht charters and private helicopter rides over local landmarks.

Off-property allure comes in the form of ideal dive spots Phang Nga and the Similan Islands, as well as nine nearby international-standard golf courses. So, which celebrities have acquired a property?

We’ll keep quiet on that front, in keeping with the resort’s dedication to discretion.

Travel Download All the media you need, whatever your journey

Rabat Arrival

App Reserv

Enter your requirements and be assured of a seat at the best restaurants in Dubai, organised by the discerning diner’s personal restaurant concierge.

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Music Bloc Party

Bold move, Bloc Party: your sireninspired single The Love Within has our ears turned your way. That’s half the mission: will the album be worthy of the attention?

Film The Revenant

Legendary 1820s frontiersman Hugh Glass is left-fordead by his hunting team after being injured in a brutal bear attack, but vengeance and grief keep him alive…

Book Occupy Me

Tricia Sullivan returns with a high-action mystery centred on a fiercelyintelligent wingedwoman named Pearl, charting her quest to uncover the secrets of the universe.

Etihad launches twiceweekly flight

January 15 marks the beginning of a pioneering route between the capital cities of the UAE and Morocco – the first scheduled direct link between the two. The move deepens the relationship between the countries, and springboards off a successful spell for Etihad’s Casablanca service, extending the airline’s reach across North Africa. As for post-touchdown expectations, turn to page 60 and discover the “blend of the familiar and the exotic” that awaits…

January 2016 World Traveller

California Dreamin’

The Rose Parade, Los Angeles

LA’s annual Rose Parade features elaborate floral floats, music performances and marching troupes, ushering over one million spectators to Pasadena’s streets every year. California’s sun-kissed climate attracts visitors year-round, and the first parade in 1890 was organised to promote this state’s sunny winters. Celebrations kick off at 8am on the corner of Green Street and Orange Grove Boulevard, before making its way east and concluding at Villa Street, where the multicoloured floats are parked and showcased. Afterwards, why not head to the Rose Bowl football game? Seats sell out fast, so book in advance to avoid disappointment. tournamentofroses.com When: Friday, January 1 to Sunday, January 3.

Price: Bleacher seats are available

for between USD50–USD100 and there’s also free sidewalk seating. People traditionally camp out overnight, but if you’d rather show up on the day, head east of Lake Avenue for a better chance of sidewalk seating.

Insider tip: Prefer to avoid the busy crowds altogether this New Year’s Day? Head to Sierra Madre Boulevard and Washington Street in Pasadena for the post-parade, where you can walk within feet of the animated masterpieces.

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Check In My City

MY CITY

Tagbilaran, Bohol

Ritchie Plaza The Chief Concierge at Atlantis, The Palm, has the inside track on his home city Despite its relative size, the capital city of the island province of Bohol, does not feel like a ‘big city’, instead possessing an aura of a more provincial town. There is plenty of charm and plenty to love in Tagbilaran, like centuries-old houses, the famous Chocolate Hills, the pristine white beaches of Panglao Island, and ancient religious buildings – a few of which have begun to be renovated through the support of the National Historical Institute.

Tagbilaran is pretty laid back but will definitely give you almost everything that you can find in big cities such as in Cebu.

From the most casual dining to expensive restaurants and cafes, Boholanos are total foodies, so you will always see different new restaurants sprouting up like mushrooms.

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There are treats for the sweet toothed at Mosia Cupcakes and Cookie Shop, and family-friendly dining at Gerarda’s. My recommendation though has to be the Buzz Café, situated in one of the city shopping centres, which offers an organic range of cuisine with their delicious Bougainvillea Salad a real highlight.

In terms of relaxation, every time I come back home I never miss having a ‘hilot’ massage, which is a time-honoured way of a therapy that basically offers the combination of Swedish and Shiatsu techniques, whilst using aromatherapy for ambience. In the Tamblot Area, there is a massage centre that employs blind therapists as part of their communitysupport programme, and they undoubtedly give the best ‘hilot’ in town.

With four daily flights from Manila, tourists are drawn here to soak up the culture, and there’s no better example of that than the Sandugo Festival, which happens every July. This must-visit,

month-long celebration ends with famous Sandugo street dancing. The event marks the first known treaty between the locals and the Spanish conquerers hundreds of years ago, and it is for this reason the ‘City of Friendship’ tag was bestowed upon Tagbilaran, making it one of the most livable cities in the Philippines – and great to visit, too. Remaining in festival-fever, the Ube Festival is celebrated at the start of the year during the month of January, in honour of Bohol’s famous purple-yam root crop which is a proud province export.

This is a bubbly city and few establishments are open 24 hours, many stores are closed on Sunday, traffic is almost non-existent, and Tagbilaranons are morerelaxed than their large-city counterparts within the region. This atmosphere yields many positives: locals are very friendly, the city is very safe, and as the introduction to Bohol, Tagbilaran is a great snapshot of what one can expect from the rest of this huge, diverse province.

January 2016 World Traveller Tokyo, Japan

Kazbegi, Georgia

Ask the EXPERT

Rob Arrow is a product manager at dnata Travel and a self-confessed hotel geek. With nearly a decade of experience in the luxury travel industry, Rob loves nothing more than talking hotels and discovering destinations. His favourite country is Lebanon, his favourite city is Los Angeles, and his dream is to own a boutique retreat in the Italian Alps.

Q. Phew, the end of the year is over.

Can you recommend any great retreats where we can relax and recharge the batteries?

A. There are a number of places worldwide that you can relax at, but there are few places where you can go to really unwind.

What I mean by this is somewhere you can totally forget life problems and just chill out.

A trip to Veela Private Island in the Maldives is like no other. Once you arrive by seaplane, your butler will take care of everything. All you need to do is concentrate on unwinding. Featuring 45 villas, this is a beautiful boutique resort that is of the highest standard.

You can also opt for the serenity of a private hillside villa in the Seychelles, at

Tanzania, Zanzibar

the Four Seasons resort.

Or, if you prefer to be close to a vibrant and bustling city, there’s the new Mandarin Oriental Marrakech. With a variety of stunning outdoor and indoor living suites, you can enjoy the peace of the Palmera region in style. Or venture out and into the buzzing Kasbah or Souq, before returning to the hotel’s stunning spa.

For a mix of both worlds, why not try the peaceful La Reserve in Paris? This ultra-luxurious retreat has all you need to feel like you’re at home, but step outside and you can stroll the Champs Élysées or shop on Rue St Fauborg in a matter of minutes.

Wherever you are, it’s important to manage your downtime. Be sure to turn off your mobile phone and no matter what your surroundings, you will relax a lot more.

Q. With all the rush I’ve left it a bit late, the popular places are bound to be booked… Are there any unearthed early-year destinations, to try something a bit different?

A. To travel is a gift; a privilege. As is discovering new places and meeting people from different cultures and nations.

Consequently, being ahead of the curve is an opportunity one must really embrace.

One brilliant escape to take advantage of this month is Tokyo, before heading on to Kyoto. Tokyo is a city in which to escape

the norm; a wonderful world of lights, noise and scents, all new to the senses.

The people are shy, but charming and polite. The shopping is top-notch and the history and colours of Kyoto are breathtaking. A trip on the Bullet Train between the two cities is a must-do.

Experience Tokyo at its finest by checking into the Mandarin Oriental, which is centrally-located and varied; the mix of Japanese and Western influences works very well for a first-timer.

Wanting a break closer to home? Try Georgia. The country has so much to offer in such small space. Great if you’re wanting to escape to somewhere convenient and new. Spend a day or two at Rooms Hotel in Kazbegi – you will feel an aura akin to Austria or Switzerland.

Away from these city-based sanctuaries, for island living, the new Park Hyatt in Zanzibar is a perfect retreat away from the busy Indian Ocean resorts. Off the East African coast, this piece of Tanzania is a real escape from the world, with sandbar beaches between fishing villages, as well as Stone Town World Heritage Site.

If you have more time, Palau is the place for you. In the Pacific outposts, it has some wonderful rustic resorts and boasts marine life like no other. The ‘Serengeti of the Sea’ is now a marine protected area, so will always feel like an unearthed destination.

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Check In World Traveller Promotion

Beauty Has An Address

Explore Incredible Oman There are so many ways to tap into your own private experience of the Sultanate, which sits proudly on the Arabian Peninsula. Diverse terrain contains tourism treasures within its arid desert, flourishing riverbed oases, mazy coastlines, as well as fascinating, rising cities like the portCapital of Muscat.

Nature Trail

Outdoor Adventures

Culture Vulture

Go camping on mountain-tops in Jabal Shams (Sun Mountain) and Al Jabal Al Akhdar (Green Mountain), or in the desert of Badiya and ‘The Empty Quarter’; sail through the ‘Gate of the Lion’s Jaws’ between the rock formations of The Strait of Hormuz; play golf on one of three 18-hole courses; watch the ‘ships of the desert’ hit 64kph in a Royal Court Affairs camel race.

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Spy gazelles and wildcats in 200sq km of Al Saleel Nature Park; admire the stunning blooms of the Botanic Garden; adore the turtle reserves from the beaches of Ras Al Hadd to Masirah Island; dive Al-Dimaniyat Islands Nature Reserve, 18km off the coast of Barka, with its fascinating coral reefs.

Shop the Nizewa souq within fort walls; explore the age-old traditional village of Qannah; witness the craft of daggermaking; tread the World Heritage-listed Frankincense trails, from the Land Museum to Khawr Al Baleed lagoon and beyond.

Discover these wonders, and more, at omantourism.gov.om

January 2016 World Traveller

Stay on the Bay

Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah Resort and Spa takes a threepronged approach to memorable Omani hospitality, with its trio of properties ensuring there’s a stunning hotel to exceed every expectation.

A Luxury Enclave Al Husn Hotel

Arguably the jewel of the Barr Al Jissah Resort crown, this takes its brand of sophistication to a higher level. Royal Arabian palaces, such as a 17th century castle in Jabreen, provide the inspiration for the opulent interiors, and beautiful Omani artwork adorns the walls. This adultonly property means one can enjoy every element in utmost peace, from its private 100m beach, to high-level attentiveness and complimentary culinary and beverage privileges. Your every wish is fulfilled.

The Setting for Love Al Bandar Hotel

Whether rekindling existing amour or igniting flames anew, Al Bandar is ‘The Town’ in which to connect as a couple.

Old Muscat is echoed throughout the architecture, through a mix of buildings with a variety of ornate balconies, as well as lush gardens to admire while strolling hand-in-hand. Contemporary sea-facing guestrooms have a hint of Arabian décor, while the largest Spa villas in Muscat promise ‘peace, enchantment and wellbeing’ will flow through your muscles, ensuring the right mood for romance.

For the Family Al Waha Hotel

As Oman’s first dedicated family hotel, the purpose of this property was apparent from the start: a tunnel had to be built through a mountain range for access. Emerge, and one finds a hotel that lives up to its translation of ‘The Oasis’. Expansive, interconnecting family rooms have serene views of the Gulf of Oman for the adults to enjoy, while for younger guests there are in-room technology options. Once their restlessness kicks in, several swimming pools, a dedicated Kids Club and an Adventure Zone should ensure a peaceful night’s energysapped sleep.

Guests can book their stay by calling +968 2477 6262; mention ‘World Traveller’ to receive a complimentary upgrade to a Sea View room, in addition to 20% off food and beverages.

Words by James Monsey.

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Check In Chef’s Top Tables

This page: Gastro Park.

Opposite page, clockwise from top left: Bouchon; Schwartz’s Deli; Bouchon.

Chef’s

TOP TABLES Head chef Brian Voelzing from The Hide, Dubai’s hottest American-style restaurant, serves up a fresh take on the coolest culinary artists

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Schwartz’s Deli, Montreal Order: Montreal Smoked Meat Sandwich

Every time I visit Montreal I make sure to stop here. They’ve been using the same recipe for their signature smoked meat sandwich since it opened in 1928. The dish is very simple but packed with phenomenal flavour. Absolutely delicious - thinly sliced smoked meat, packed between two pieces of rye bread and drenched in mustard.

Scaramouche Restaurant, Toronto Order: Veal Sirloin

Scaramouche’s menu is very seasonal and uses lots of fresh, local and organic produce. The Ontario milk-fed veal, which is the protagonist in my favourite dish, is served with porcini gnocchi, chanterelle mushrooms, artichokes and small leeks.

It’s a very earthy dish that’s finished with parmesan cream and shaved truffle.

January 2016 World Traveller

Gastro Park, Sydney Order: Crispy Red Snapper

Gastro Park’s menu can change from day to day and but one constant is very modern, yet classic techniques. Each dish is different, but features the same skill and talent. A restaurant based on harmonious contradiction! The crispy red snapper dish is served with smoked potato puree, gorgeous squid crackling, confit squid and a squid ink sauce.

Bouchon, Las Vegas Order: Croque Madame

Thomas Keller’s French brasserie in Las Vegas really makes you feel like you’re somewhere in France. It’s very authentic and brimming with Parisian charm. Oh, and what wonderful meals they serve. The Croque Madame is a classically simple French dish; a grilled meat and cheese sandwich on soft brioche, with a fried egg and mornay sauce.

Electric Diner, London Order: Steak Tartare

When I lived in London, this was my local when I wanted some tasty grub. The Electric Diner offers foodies a fun and simple menu and each dish is served with a large selection of accompanying beverages.

The steak tartare is classically prepared and served with fresh grilled sourdough and raw egg yolk. A real winner to try out when you’re next in The Smoke.

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Check In Spotlight On

Spotlight On Buenos Aires As summer hits the cosmopolitan South American city, take a tango-fuelled time-out to Argentina’s capital

Eat and Drink Café Tortoni

Old-world elegance in an epic setting, the exterior belies a magnificent interior replete with Tiffany-glass ceiling. Sit at a marbletop table for a light lunch, soaking up an ambience enjoyed by poets, politicians and thinkers for over 150 years.

Don Julio

Argentina is famed for its beef, and this steakhouse vies for being branded the best parrilla in ‘BA’. Sip velvety welcome-drinks while waiting for slow-cooked cuts of meat and chorizo to reach perfect tenderness… this enclave is a culinary highlight.

Havanna

Argentina’s answer to Starbucks puts coffee on every corner, but wait! Venture inside for a different reason: their scrumptious signature-take on alfajores, a complexlyflavoured cookie. Save space in your suitcase, as you’ll struggle to find these sweet treats outside South America.

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See and Do La Boca

The port barrio is home to the brightlypainted Caminito, which keeps alive the energy of its 1920s European migrant past.

You’ll discover art, tradition, handmade crafts, music, street dancers and photo opportunities galore in this ‘little walkway’.

Tigre

A comfortable boat ride along the iron-hued waters of the delta offers city-respite away from the bustle of downtown to unspoilt islands. Spy on (now empty) colonial mansions, and briefly step on-shore to reload and get back out on the water with a kayak, wakeboard or canoe.

Milonga Parakultural, Salon Canning

It must be said that tango Milongas, organised events for people to meet and dance, can be found in many places.

Parakultural is a good starting point: music every night and dancers of all ages. Don’t

be a wallflower and it’s important to be fashionably late, as performances begin at 2am. Whether tango is an unknown realm or you are a seasoned dancer who has perfected the flair, all abilites are welcome here.

Stay Palacio Duhau, Park Hyatt

1930s decadent charm meets contemporary style in this luxury hotel situated on Avenida Alvear, in the centre of the French heritage district of Recoleta – just a short evening stroll to the Latin American Art Museum of Buenos Aires (MALBA) and trendy Puerto Madero.

• Don’t miss

Floralis Genérica is a sight to behold.

Designed by Eduardo Catalano, the 23m tall steel and aluminium flower-shaped sculpture is the gem of Plaza de las Naciones Unidas. The artwork is ‘reborn’ each day, opening its petals in the morning and closing them in the evening.

India - a precious heritage for you to discover.

To know more, log on to www.incredibleindia.org

Jewellery that mirrors a diverse heritage

Find what you seek

Coveted for centuries. Desired by the discerning.

India Tourism, Dubai. Tel: +971 4 2274848, Fax: +971 4 2274013. E-mail: goirto@emirates.net.ae INCA/IT/0163

DISCOVER UNPARALLELED LEVELS OF RELAXATION AT OUR NEW TURKISH HAMMAM.

Indulge in timeless healing traditions in the Anantara Spa at Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort.

Rejuvenate and relax in our newly opened Turkish Hammam, 24 treatment rooms, including five luxury couples suites and other new facilities such as a sauna and eight relaxation areas.

Anantara Spa is also the first spa in the region to launch Microsilk technology, special bath “shells” that use micro bubbles to enhance overall skin cleansing, exfoliating and hydration of the skin.

LIFE IS A JOURNEY. Visit anantara.com

ANANTARA THE PALM DUBAI RESORT ANANTARA SPA P.O. BOX 71607, EAST CRESCENT, PALM JUMEIRAH DUBAI, UNITED ARAB EMIRATES T +971 4 567 8140 E SPADUBAI@ANANTARA.COM

January 2016 World Traveller

Therapeutic Tourism Egypt

Indulge your senses and delight in a world of unrivalled luxury at Egypt’s most exclusive holiday resort destination, Somabay. Deeply therapeutic treatments and spectacular facilities welcome visitors to the world-renowned Cascades Spa and Thalasso. Soothe away your aches and pains in one of the most luxurious and relaxing environments. Tucked away on the coastal edge of the vast desert landscape, this wellness centre is an ode to relaxation. somabay.com

&

Style Wellness

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Check In Style & Wellness

2.

3.

7

1.

Magnificent

4.

New York Street Style Fashion Frontline Celebrate airport style

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(1) Casual Leather Look Waistcoat with Faux Fur (esprit.com) (2) Burberry Brit Scarf (bloomingdales.com) (3) Insolia Flex Shoes (marksandspencer.com) (4) Washed Look Skinny Denim Jeans (marksandspencer.com) (5) Slim Fitted Cotton Shirt (esprit.com) (6) Titanium Palladium 001 (rvseyewear.com) (7) Casual Cable Blended Wool Cape (esprit.com).

5.

A Journey in Style has been created to mark the completion of a three year $60 million project to bring together luxurious fashion brands at Heathrow Airport’s Terminal 5. The hardback book has been written by supermodel Yasmin Le Bon and is a collection of archive photography, which highlights the enduring relationship between fashion and flying. At only AED85, it’s the perfect gift for fans of travel and vintage glamour. Commenting on the book, Le Bon said: “There’s something fabulously glamorous about flying that has always fascinated me and to this day I still get excited about travelling.”

Le Spa Algodon Mansion, Buenos Aires

An oasis in the sky, reminiscent of a Hollywood penthouse veranda, Algodon Mansion features rooftop teak decks and loungers where visitors can enjoy twilight soirées on a warm moonlit evening – perfect after a soothing session at Le Spa. This six-story boutique hotel was built in 1912 and has been impeccably restored.

Nestled in the heart of Buenos Aires’ most elegant residential neighbourhood, Recoleta, Le Spa features steam, sauna and massage rooms. With BIO treatments based on Swiss and French spa techniques, therapists specialize in facials, epidermal cell renewal systems and natural peels. This revolutionary health facility is the first and only of its kind in Latin America to feature products from Stendhal Paris. algodonmansion.com 28

Elegant ESPA Saudi Arabia

Relax and savour every revitalising moment at Al Faisaliah Spa by ESPA, in the heart of Riyadh. The facility recently launched two revolutionary and bespoke signature treatments, which are designed to ensure guests are able to indulge in a more exceptional and personalised experience. Spanning four floors, the ultimate ladies only spa features six treatment rooms, two private spa suites, a whirlpool, salon and a fitness zone. The signature treatments and interior design reflect the local culture and heritage of Arabian hospitality, providing the perfect ground for relaxation and indulgence. alfaisaliahspa.com

January 2016 World Traveller

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Get Well Soon#

Iridium Spa, St. Regis Dubai

Exclusive to St. Regis, Iridium Spa pampers guests with the bespoke touches of a rare wellness experience. The St. Regis Dubai’s French beaux-arts architecture and neo-classical interiors pay homage to The St. Regis New York, the brand’s original hotel, which opened in 1904. Building on that legacy, the spa articulates the same distinctive elegance – both in the enthralling design of its treatment suites and in thoughtful gestures, like a signature tea ritual. This crystal chandelier peppered paradise consists of six treatment rooms, two hammams and separate female and male wet areas with steam room and sauna.

Try this…

The Iridium Bespoke Massage’s strength and depth is personalised to suit you. After a detailed consultation, therapists will determine the most suitable technique, and whether you’d prefer Aromatherapy or Deep Muscle. Other recreational facilities include two rooftop pools, as well as a 24-hour fitness centre. stregisdubai.com

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Check In World Traveller Promotion

Yas Island IN FOCUS

FerrariAbu World Dhabi

The world’s largest indoor and first Ferrari theme park welcomes you and your family this new year

F

errari World Abu Dhabi offers every family a truly spectacular experience, all inspired by the affluent Ferrari brand and its Italian heritage. This January, celebrate the vibrant spirit of the legendary marque and enjoy the park’s numerous rollercoasters, family-friendly attractions and entrancing live shows. This top leisure and entertainment destination will soon be adding several new record-breaking rides, which will offer guests an even more exhilarating and unique visit.

Taste of Italy

Ferrari World Abu Dhabi has a range of dining experiences that’ll suit all tastes.

Each restaurant reflects the culinary expertise of each individual chef while bringing the inspiration of Maranello, Italy to Abu Dhabi. Treat yourself to an Italian pastry or homemade gelato between rides.

Savour the ambiance of traditional Italian style at Ristorante Cavallino, enjoy fresh pasta at Mamma Rossella or grab a freshly roasted coffee at the cosmopolitan café, Espresso Rosso.

Adrenaline Junkies

During the first quarter of 2016, Ferrari World Abu Dhabi is set to welcome thrill seekers onboard its record-breaking roller coaster Flying Aces, acclaimed for having the world’s tallest loop and steepest starting hill inclination. In the meantime, guests can enjoy the world’s fastest roller

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coaster Formula Rossa, and families can get competitive in electric powered go-karts at the Karting Academy. An all-new Junior Training Camp will also entertain the little ones, with a soft play area and selection of climbing activities.

Live Shows

Discover the passion behind Ferrari at the family friendly show, Viva Ferrari.

Featuring 3D animations, performance arts and optical illusions, you’ll be inspired.

Weekend performances of RED will leave you with a greater appreciation of live theatre; prepare yourself for extravagant dancing, BMX biking, mega wheels and acrobatics. The daily Tyre Change Show’s comedic duo will have you in fits of laughter and the grand old Italian theatre, Cinema Maranello, the feel of which will take you all the way back to the 1920s.

Shopping Spree

The Ferrari Past & Present store features gifts of quality that are guaranteed to stand the test of time. Go back in time and wander through old gas pumps and vintage memorabilia in a replica of Enzo’s first garage. You’ll find collectibles and rare racing items, while in Toy Zone the kids can stuff their Ferrari 599 engine box with as many miniature tools they can fit. The Ferrari Store will also leave you spoiled for choice, with its vast selection of Italian designers, high-end leather goods and designer jewellery.

 World’s tallest non-inverted loop (52 metres or 170 feet)  Approx duration: 65 sec

January 2016 World Traveller

Ace Offers!

Get more thrills for less on a Yas Island stay, by availing these incredible rates at one of its fantastic hotels. Book by calling dnata on +971 4316 6666 or log-on and visit dnatatravel.com

Radisson Blu Hotel, Abu Dhabi Yas Island

Yas Viceroy, Abu Dhabi Yas Island

Crowne Plaza Abu Dhabi - Yas Island

Centro Yas Island, Abu Dhabi

One night from USD 178 per person.

Includes: Say in a Standard Room with breakfast daily Validity: Jan 1-May 14, 2016

One night from USD 75 per person Includes: Stay in a Superior room with breakfast daily Validity: Jan 6-Feb 8, 2016

One night from USD 129 per person Includes: Stay in a Marina Room with breakfast Validity: Jan 2-Apr 1, 2016

One night from USD 77 per person Includes: Stay in a Standard Room with breakfast daily Validity: Jan 1-Apr 30, 2016

 Steepest starting

hill inclination (high speed cable lift running at 30kmph up to a height of 63 metres, 51° steep), with minimal support (sustained by only 2 columns)  Top speed of 120kmph

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Check In dnata Offers

WORLD TRAVELLER

Reader Offers

A France The Westin Paris, Vendome

3 nights from USD639 per person Special offer: Receive a room upgrade and complimentary WiFi access Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now 'til Mar 31, 2016 Just a five minute walk from Place de la Concorde and ten minutes from the iconic Louvre Museum. Magnifique location.

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B Switzerland InterContinental Geneva

Czech Republic InterContinental Prague

3 nights from USD589 per person Special offer: Stay two nights and receive an additional night free Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now 'til Feb 29, 2016

3 nights from USD205 per person Special offer: Stay two nights and receive an additional night free Includes: Stay in a Classic Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now 'til Mar 31, 2016

A luxury five-star hotel, offering stunning views toward the pinnacle of snow-capped Mont Blanc, of serene blue Lake Geneva, and the sleek city itself.

Overlooking the Vltava river, this property is one of the landmarks of Prague itself, with the historic StarÊ Město district right on the hotel's doorstep.

Seychelles Four Seasons Resort Seychelles

4 nights from USD2,135 per person Special offer: 20% discount on room rate Includes: 4-nights stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Jan 9 'til Feb 29, 2016 A lush, hill-top retreat upon which to experience nature, and sample sophisticated, signature Four Seasons hospitality.

January 2016 World Traveller

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C I J L

How to Book

E K

F G

You can book these offers by calling dnata on +971 4 316 6666

H

Or visit dnatatravel.com Terms and conditions apply. On the same site you can also sign up to dnata’s newsletter and receive more offers direct to your inbox.

D

E Maldives Angsana Ihuru

4 nights from USD1,639 per person Special offer: 20% discount on room rate, one child under 12 years stays and eats free and receives complimentary speedboat transfers Includes: 4-nights stay in a Beachfront Villa with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Jan 6-Jan 16, 2016 & Mar 20-Mar 30, 2016 Endless blue ocean abounds...

F Thailand Mövenpick Resort & Spa Karon Beach Phuket

Malaysia The Westin Langkawi Resort & Spa

3 nights from USD215 per person Special offer: 20% discount on room rates Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast and dinner daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now 'til Mar 31, 2016

5 nights from USD279 per person Special offer: Stay four nights and receive an additional night free Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now 'til Mar 31, 2016

A premium property in Phuket, where you can relax and unwind within touching distance of tropical and pristine beaches.

Your luxury home when visiting the 'Jewel of Kedah' – its pure oceans considered a gem of the diving world among enthusiasts.

H Singapore Shangri-La Hotel

4 nights from USD939 per person Special offer: Stay three nights and receive an additional night free plus complimentary inroom internet Includes: Stay in a Tower Wing Deluxe Room with breakfast daily, return airport transfers and return economy class flights on Singapore Airlines Validity: Now 'til Mar 15, 2016 'The city disappears' at this Orange Grove Road sanctuary.

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Check In dnata Offers

Hotel Tauernhof, Salzburg

Raffles Istanbul

Banyan Tree Maldives

The Peninsula Shanghai

dnata’s FANTASTIC FOUR

Decisions, decisions...

A vibrant city-break, serene island retreat, or whooshing down a ski-slope at speed?

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Austria Hotel Tauernhof, Salzburg

Turkey Raffles Istanbul

3 nights from USD735 per person Includes: Stay in a Seat Corner Room with breakfast, dinner and afternoon snack daily and soft beverages, 3-day ski pass for Ski Amade, one apres ski and site event, return airport transfers Validity: Jan 1-Mar 15, 2016

4 nights from USD673 per person Special offer: Stay three nights and receive an additional night free, complimentary WiFi, butler service and extended check-out until 16.00 Includes: Stay in Standard Double room with breakfast daily and private transfers Validity: Jan 1-Mar 15, 2016

Maldives Banyan Tree Maldives

After an active day skiing on the winter slopes, this retreat provides the hospitality that's perfect for families.

Located in the hub of Istanbul, boasting the best restaurants, downtown entertainment and Bosphorus views to boot.

A round island circled by a round coral reef. Peace assured.

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4 nights from USD2,846 per person Special offer: 20% discount on room rate, one child under 12 years stays and eats free and receives complimentary speedboat transfers Includes: 4-nights stay in an Ocean View Pool Villa with breakfast, lunch and dinner daily and return speedboat transfers Validity: Jan 6-Jan 16, 2016

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China The Peninsula Shanghai

1 night from USD890 per person Special offer: 2-hour private river cruise on The Peninsula Yacht, caviar dinner, flower bouquet with exclusive welcome gift, 80-minute spa treatment at a VIP suite room and half-day usage of a Mini Cooper Includes: Stay in a Deluxe River Suite Room with breakfast Validity: Now 'til Apr 30, 2016 (minimum stay 3 nights, based on twin sharing basis) On The Bund; the city symbol.

January 2015 World Traveller Promotion

The Best of Both Worlds Travel enticements in India and Italy

Venice

Nahargarh Hotel, Ranthambore

The Essence of India

with Insight Vacation Travel to this incredible continent with a knowledgeable, 5-star dnata partner. Insight has a wealth of experience providing visitors an immersive dip into the highlights of Indian culture, with tour directors on hand to accurately explain the customs and quizzical delights on your fascinating journey.

Prices per person: AED 6,500* with travel validity from Feb 1-Apr 17, 2016.

Magnificent 7 Day 1: Arrive in Delhi

Ranthambore Bengal Tiger

Day 2: Delhi sightseeing Day 3: Agra & the Taj Mahal Day 4: Jaipur, the ‘Pink City’ Day 5: Jaipur sightseeing Day 6: Samode, medieval palaces, forts and havelis Day 7: Depart from SamodeDelhi

Great Italian Cities

with Trafalgar Tours Come and savour the rich heritage and seductive culture of a European powerhouse, on a perfectly-planned 4-star getaway to Itay. Uncover the secrets and traditions of the iconic capital, Rome, feel the weight of history in Florence,

and soak up the atmosphere of Venice – home of the gondola.

Price per person: AED 6,375** with travel dates valid from Feb 1-April 8, 2016.

Tantalising 10 Day 1: Arrive in Rome (3 nights) Day 2: Rome sightseeing and leisure time Day 3: Rome, at leisure Day 4: Rome – Assisi – Florence (3 nights) Day 5: Florence sightseeing and leisure time Day 6: Florence – excursion to Pisa Day 7: Florence – Bologna – Venice (3 nights)

Day 8: Venice – canal cruise and orientation Day 9: Secret Venice. walking tour and visit to The Rialto Food Market Day 10: Depart from Venice

Note:

*15% Discount on the tour price. Tour to be booked before 29th Feb. No other discounts applicable. ** 15% Discount on the tour price. Tour to be booked before 29th Feb. No other discounts applicable.

For more information please call +971 316 6666, or email contactcentre@dnata.com 35

Destinations The Trending Ten

THE TrEnding TEn

Introducing a collection of destinations tipped to make it onto travel itineraries for 2016. We’ll no doubt meet these characters again, before the year is through...

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January 2016 World Traveller

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Destinations The Trending Ten

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2015 saw an upstart challenger to the USA’s ‘Big 4’ of New York, Florida, L.A. and Las Vegas. Texas saw an influx of interest from the Middle Eastern market, and while some travellers used it as a springboard to the Mexican Riviera, many came in search of Dallas, Houston, San Antonio et al. Not in summer, mind you, as temperatures go toe-to-toe with those in Middle East.

When cooler climes prevail, its majestic national parks, historic buildings and the great outdoors entice alongside more-urban pursuits like live music and fine dining, giving the Lone Star State enough ‘yee-ha!’ to convince you it is an entire country in itself.

The ancient capitals of Seoul, Gyeongju and Buyeo only tell part of this nation’s tourism story. Travellers are exploring other well-kept secrets too: the highs of the Baekdudaegan mountain range, the caves of Danyang and Hwanseongul, and the beaches of Haeundae and Mallipo.

This is a modern city, with towering buildings and chic shopping districts such as Myeong-dong, and Cheongdam-dong.

Brands like the Four Seasons and Grand Hyatt have made strategic moves into this market, and ‘The Miracle on the Han River’ is continuing to weave its magic.

The Supersized State Texas, USA

Must See: Rouse the adrenaline with a sports binge: Texas has world-class pro teams. Family-friendly fun can be had at the basketball (Spurs, Rockets or Mavericks), baseball (Astros or Rangers), and American Football (Texans, or ‘America’s Team’ the Dallas Cowboys). ticketmaster.com 38

The Miracle City Seoul, South Korea

Must See: Away from the gleaming malls, Buckhon Village is a quaint folkneighbourhood where you can admire the beautiful ‘hanok’. These intricatelybuilt wooden homes are punctuated by fascinating courtyards, as well as cafes in which to dine and absorb the sheer tradition of the area. visitkorea.or.kr

January 2016 World Traveller These pages, clockwise from right: Cheonggyecheon stream, Seoul; Myeong-dong, Seoul; The Peace Bridge and Narikala Castle, Tbisili, Georgia.

3.

The Undiscovered Gem Georgia

Whilst having its own proud heritage, Georgia has imbibed positive cultural qualities from its neighbours: Russia in the north, Turkey in the West, Armenia and Iran in the South and Azerbaijan in the East. Tbilisi’s popularity is undoubtedly on the rise, with the attraction of lush greenery and mountains complementing this steadily advancing capital. A handful of Western and boutique hotels are now on the map, and this destination is gaining momentum, using its charm to coax travellers into taking a trip away from the established destinationfavourites of mainland Europe.

Must See: You must make time in your weekend schedule to take in one of the mesmerising and thought-provoking puppet performances at the Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theater, a beautiful building designed by the ingenious puppetmaster himself. gabriadze.com

4.

The Fast-Track to Fun Gold Coast, Australia

Families are packing their shorts and heading to Queensland for the iconic trio of sun, sea and sand. This is a place for the active: scenic walks, Sea World, renowned beaches, National Parks like Lamington and Springbrook, stargazing on Mt. Tambourine, wildlife, waterfalls, water activities, and even quality golf courses await. The tourism tagline may be ‘famous for fun’, but there is something seriously appealing about the ‘Surfers Paradise’ that tempts 10.5 million visitors a year; expect the Gold Coast to continue riding its wave of popularity throughout 2016.

Must See: After a day at ground-level soaking up the rays and hitting the surf on the beautiful beaches, the SkyPoint Climb gets you on-high, via Australia’s highest external building climb. Deny ‘don’t look down’ fear for a stunning 360-degree vantage of the cityscape. skypoint.com.au 39

Destinations The Trending Ten

5.

The Med Alternative Lisbon, Portugal

Another underrated destination on this continent is the City of Seven Hills, which is quietly making a name for itself as visitors look for the familiar Mediterranean aura of Spain, but with a twist. They find it here, on the compact coastline city with its maritime roots and great comfortable year-round weather. Vintage trams, natural ports and dramatic stone architecture make this a romantic, visually-absorbing vacation.

Must See: Set aside a day to admire the legacy of art collected by Calouste Gulbenkian at his self-titled Museu; from Ancient Egyptian relics and carpets from the Orient, to masterpieces from Rembrandt, Monet, René Lalique and more. museu.gulbenkian.pt

6.

The Call of the Wild Lapland, Finland

Away from old-school Central Europe exists a world of glass igloos, husky dog sleds and toe-tingling cold. This unrivalled Winter adventure – immersed in dense, pine-scented forests under the swirling Aurora Borealis – makes travellers crave rosy cheeks and a Finnish stamp in their passport. There is enough wilderness for year-round excursions and after 8 months, when Summer rolls around, midnight sunspotting, panning for gold and whitewater kayaking take over proceedings.

Must See: Kakslauttanen Arctic Resort allows you to sleep under the stars on the cusp of the wilderness, in your own log cabin. Such is the unrivalled natural beauty that Ralph Lauren made the property and its surrounding scenery the focal point for a Fall Collection photoshoot. Idyllic.

7.

The Perennial Paradise Bali, Indonesia

Back en vogue, the spiritual sanctum of Bali steadily attracts the well-travelled and the wide-eyed. Asian destinations are on the resurgence and this Indonesian island is at the forefront, thanks to its affordability and evergreen appeal (also, perhaps, its seeming promise of departing with inner-peace achieved). Whether you’re more at home on a jungle trek than a soaring volcano, navigating a coral reef, or residing at the Buglari Resort before schmoozing at the classy Ku De Ta, this is a tropical travel escape for every appetite.

Must See: Bali, by bicycle allows you a unique exploration of the island. Eco-cycle in the Ubud countryside and learn about the surrounding nature, or gently ride past rice fields on a fully-immersive culture trail. celebritybiketour.com 40

January 2016 World Traveller

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Destinations The Trending Ten

8.

The Copacabana Convergence Rio de Janeiro, Brazil

The nation is once again gearing up to welcome the world as the venue for yet another major sporting event: the 2016 Olympics, which follows on from their successful hosting of the 2014 FIFA World Cup. The infrastructure improvement means that hospitality-wise, Rio is appealing to international-quality hotel groups and lifestyle brands. Carnival revelry with costume, feasting and dancing makes Rio a tourism mainstay: the 31st Olympiad only adds to the excitement.

Must See: In August? The Men’s 100m sprint final, if you can! Ordinarily, take a helicopter ride to the top of Pao de Acucar (Sugarloaf Mountain), for extraordinary views of the beaches and Christ the Redeemer. No respectable Rio photo-album is complete without it. viator.com 42

January 2016 World Traveller

Prevous pages, clockwise from top left: Tram in Portas o Sol, Lisbon; sunrise over rice fields in Bali; glass igloos in Kakslauttanen, Lapland; dog sled tour in Lainio, Lapland.

These pages, clockwise from top right: Sugar loaf cable car and view of Botafogo bay; Copacabana and Praia Vermelha beach at sunset, Rio de Janiero; Sakura blooming at Meguro River, Tokyo.

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Flame-orange and powder-puff pink are colours that, in Japan, herald the annual urge visit to Tokyo, and historic Kyoto – for 1,000 years the Imperial capital. The ‘sakura’ cherry blossom and ‘koyo’ autumnleaf-spotting seasons mean being anchored in lush parks with a picnic on hand, to witness nature’s symphony. Nature-aside, there is another reason these two cities make it onto the must-visit list: a desire to ride the Tokaido Shinkansen bullet train.

200mph, and the delicate changing of a leaf’s colour… Seems opposites do attract.

With a duo of Four Seasons hotels opening this year and direct flights from Qatar Airways and Turkish Airlines, the highaltitude capital has never been more attractive for travel – or more accessible.

A thriving restaurant scene will ensure you get your fill of Bandeja Paisa (which includes beans, white rice, chorizo, fried egg and avocado) or empanadas while looking at the Andes on the skyline. An abundance of museums, nature reserves and energetic festivals ensure you’ll soon work up an appetite to crave another plateful.

The Seasonal Selection Japan

Must See: The origins of the dry rock garden at Kyoto’s Ryoan-ji Temple are shrouded in mystery... and for just 500yen (AED15) you can contemplate its rumoured 500 year-old beginnings (and other deep questions) at one of the finest examples of Zen landscaping in Japan. ryoanji.jp

The Newly-Connected Capital Colombia

Must See: Aromas aplenty on a day-trip away from Bogota, in a country that is located right on the ‘bean belt’. The visit to a functioning coffee farm in Fusagasuga will ensure you’re an expert on the process, from planting coffee beans to the final steps of roasting. uncovercolombia.com 43

Destinations Iconic Malaysia Shanghai

Petronas Towers

Completed in 1998, these 88-storey stainless-steel towers were designed by Argentinian architect César Pelli. They are the headquarters of Malaysia’s national oil and gas company Petronas and, being in the heart of KLCC, soar over the retail and business hub of Kuala Lumpur. Visitors enjoy splendid views from the midlevel Skybridge, but book tickets online beforehand, as the majority are sold in advance.

As the tallest twin-building in the world, Petronas Towers stand at nearly 452m. Islamic influences are clearly evident in each tower’s five tiers, which represent the five pillars of Islam.

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January 2016 November 2015 World Traveller

Malaysia Iconic

Malaysia is two countries in one, carved in half by the South China Sea. From the futuristic high-rises of Kuala Lumpur to the long-established longhouse villages of Sarawak, colonial architecture, misty tea plantations and lush jungles attract swathes of tourists each year

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Destinations Iconic Malaysia

Cameron Highlands

Pick plump, sun-kissed strawberries and breathe in fragrant highland air. Or sip on fresh tea in between a friendly round of golf.

Located in the north-western

Sipadan Island

The late Jacques Cousteau, a world-renowned oceanographer, once described this dynamic island as “an untouched piece of art”. Divers have since voted it as one of the top five dive sites in the world.

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corner of Pahang, Cameron Highlands is one of Malaysia’s most popular hill resorts.

Named after British explorer Sir William Cameron, who mapped the area in 1885, the region was

developed during the colonial period. During the 1930s, exquisite gardens and delicate bungalows were constructed as refuge for Brits wanting to escape the stifling summer heat.

January 2016 World Traveller

Mulu National Park, Sarawak

Arguably one of the most magnificant nature destinations in Southeast Asia, Unesco has declared Mulu a World Heritage Site. Few parks squeeze so many natural marvels into such an intimate area. Boasting caves of mind-boggling proportions, rugged mountains, deep gorges, dense rainforest, and crystal-clear rivers, this park is a must-see. Try the so-called Headhunters’ Trail, which follows an old tribal war path down to Limbang.

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Destinations Istanbul

A f e s t i vA l of liGHt

iN DARKNess

Istanbul, the city of seven hills and crossroads of the east and west, welcomes Annie Darling to Turkey’s first light festival

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January 2016 World Traveller

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Destinations Istanbul

O

ur seemingly bitter driver mutters to himself in frustration. In the darkness of the shuttle bus, I exchange nervous glances with a fellow traveller while she grapples to secure her swaying luggage. After spending an hour in mind-boggling stop-and-start traffic, he’s decided to play maverick, opting to expeditiously speed off the motorway in a frenzied rage and take Istanbul’s quaint but very, very narrow back roads to our hotel.

As we tumble down steep, cobbled streets it becomes clear no amount of sharp corners, meandering avenues or roaming pedestrians will deter this veteran motorist.

Such a description will come as no surprise to anyone who has spent time driving here.

There are few cities worldwide where multihour traffic jams at midnight are the norm and, as it turns out, Istanbul is one of them.

This pulsating melting pot of 15 million residents arguably has the dubious honour of being the most congested bottleneck between Europe and the Middle East.

With everything braced and clenched, we rattle past dimly lit Byzantine monuments and the occasional eatery, until we reach our destination: Raffles Istanbul. Not before, however, my fellow traveller lurches headon into the back of the seat in front during an emergency stop.

Before visiting I had heard that Raffles Istanbul is becoming increasingly popular for those wanting comfort, exclusivity and a luxury five-star experience. Upon entering the hotel, I find the lobby pulsating with gentle chatter and the delicate melody of a live harpist. To my personal delight, Turkish actor and filmmaker Cem Yılmaz is among the vivacious crowd. Contemporary art pieces featuring Ottoman Palaces overrun with majestic wildcats are set against strikingly modern furnishings and freshly picked flowers. Bejewelled women gracefully loll in opulent gowns, while their tuxedo-wearing children sit impatiently, eagerly waiting for the celebrations to begin.

After all, it’s the opening ceremony of the first Istanbul Light Festival.

The next morning, before breakfast, I begin to understand why Raffles Istanbul has become the preferred destination for

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January 2016 World Traveller Opening pages: Maiden’s Tower (Kiz Kulesi) at sunset.

These pages: Raffles Istanbul in the Zorlu Center.

travellers. Rising above the ancient and bustling metropolis, the hotel balconies provide the most magnificent views of the Bosphorus Bridge. Majestic cargo ships glide along the deep-blue river and redroofed houses litter the horizon, amidst surprisingly lush and sloping terrain.

One thing’s for certain, this is no ghost town. This is no obsolete, has-been city trading on fond, but distant, memories.

Boasting some of the best architectural and cultural wonders worldwide, in addition to a legacy on every street corner, Istanbul surreptitiously remains Turkey’s social and commercial nerve center.

Despite losing its capital status to Ankara, Istanbul dwarves its rival in both population and vibrancy thanks – in no small part – to its prime geographic

It’s easy to understand its appeal to various conquering armies location. Brimming with noise and colour, it’s easy to understand its appeal to various conquering armies and ancient civilizations.

For centuries it was Europe’s most multicultural city, awash with different nationalities, traditions and languages. No region has been besieged so many times and no other city sits perfectly astride two continents. Born for trade and made for business, Istanbul isn’t a fearful and retiring colony but, instead, a confident hotbed of commerce, defiantly governing one of the most prosperous waterways in the world.

Controlling the Bosphorus, which connects the Mediterranean and the Black Sea, has always ensured political clout, a constant stream of innovation and, of course, money.

Nestled on the European side of the city in the Beşiktaş district, Raffles Istanbul has excellent transport links and is conveniently located within the Zorlu Center, a new lifestyle destination featuring a performing arts center, shopping mall, exclusive residences and office space. Over $35 billion has been invested into the multi-use complex. It’s an urban landscape

of geometrical metal and glass – an artwork in itself. A modern bazaar, brimming with upscale shopping brands and restaurants.

Fashion giants Dolce & Gabbana, Louis Vuitton, Vakko and Beyman adorn the spacious units, in addition to several gourmet favourites: Jamie’s Italian, Tom’s Kitchen and local gems Köşebaşı and Günaydın. Young couples and families enjoy the fresh air and huddle together in their winter warmers, gobbling walnut-filled crescent cakes and reading each other’s Turkish coffee cups.

It’s an invigorating and crisp day – chilly, but bright. As I wander around the Zorlu Center, the atmosphere is one of apprehension and excitement. Volunteers swiftly scramble to set up the remaining unfinished light installations. Despite the formalities of yesterday evening, the real artistic reveal is tonight.

I happen upon Mesut Pektaş, Chief Executive Officer of Zorlu Property Group, as I hop over loose wires and accidentally inconvenience zealous organisers frantically lugging sound equipment. “You must visit our performing arts center around the corner,” he warmly insists.

“We’re very proud of it.”

A commitment to the group’s corporate social responsibility, the Zorlu Performing Arts Center’s was designed to host performances by artists from a range of disciplines. Not only does it welcome Broadway and West End musicals like Jersey Boys and Phantom of the Opera, but also theatrical world premiers. I discover violin chieftain Nigel Kennedy’s headlining this evening. As I earnestly wonder whether he’s still donning his signature Mohawk and trainers (I later find out firsthand that he is, with the latter being luminously yellow), Programming Director Cemil Demirok thoughtfully takes me backstage where (between you and I) I sneak a peek at Kennedy’s dressing room.

While noseying around, I notice an enormous board, swarming with photographs and signatures of celebrities who’ve performed here. The largest image of them all is of Hugh Jackman, dreamily singing into a comically oversized 51

Destinations Istanbul

microphone. Teşekkür ederim is written nearby, which I’m told translates to ‘thank you’. Nearby there’s a photograph of Russell Crowe, and underneath are the words: “I was here before you, Hugh Jackman!”

“What a list!” I exclaim, my eyes scampering through hundreds of messages.

“We’re the biggest stage in Europe,” Cemil smiles. “We don’t have much competition.”

The United Nations declared 2015 as the International Year of Light, a global initiative that highlights the importance of light and technology. Using Zorlu Center as the city’s premier destination, curator and UCLA Professor Rebeca Méndez has decided to bring 23 high tech light art installations by 22 international light artists to what will be the world’s largest public art gallery.

“I am fortunate to meet and work with the brightest artists in the world,” she explains, moments before I wander around the exhibition. “Some of them are my colleagues, and others are my students.

Light artists come from diverse areas of study. It could be science fiction, industrial design, chemistry or architecture. The incorporation of their newest work in these technologies is at the core of art light.

“One can trace lineage of light art festivals to the 20th century,” she enthusiastically tells me. “Artists began to abandon the two-

Glittering in royal red and gold, warmly inviting visitors into its chandelier-strewn passageways dimensional way of traditional art media and started experimenting with a more multi-sensorial experience.”

That evening, Zorlu Center is vibrating with swarms of visitors. Like a treasure hunt, spectators discover innovative artworks that are conscientiously sprinkled across the humming complex. At the heart sits Apple’s iconic cube store, a concept that was previously exclusive to New York. Neon lights reflect in the surrounding water and glass, while futuristic music accumulates and clouds of smoke hiss into the gathering crowds. A pyramid of spotlights shoot into the night sky and I tilt my head back, squinting, naively expecting to see the outline of a Batman symbol.

French technician Thomas Veyssière’s installation, titled Space Invaders, drapes the walls. His animated lambent figures enjoy a weightless daredevil dance of mischief as they chase each other and scale nearby buildings. Nearby, Raffles Arcade is glittering in royal red and gold, warmly inviting visitors into its chandelier-strewn passageways. Deep within, Singaporean Tae Gon Kim’s Dresses Of Memory installation startles visitors. Eerily-resembling Charles Dickens’ Miss Havisham, his extravagant 52

January 2016 World Traveller

These pages, clockwise from left: Ayasfya Mosque; Spice Market; Turkish Coffee; Blue Mosque; Suleymaniye District, Istanbul Old Town.

dresses are suspended in total darkness, shimmering from the realms of fantasy.

Appearing as apparitions, each piece is made from hundreds of fiber-optic strands, which slowly change colour.

There’s a festive feel to the evening as enthusiastic guests roam the streets in puffy coats and winter boots. Hyperactive children squirm from the arms of their parents and dart to Jen Lewin’s interactive sculpture titled, The Pool. Enthusiastic adults and youngsters alike jump on giant, concentric circles created from interactive, wireless pads.

Having experienced the contemporary side of Istanbul, the next day I decide to explore the wealth of heritage and ancestry smoldering just below the polished surface. Hardly a triumph of urban design and named after the 18th century stone, Taksim Meyadnı is a surprisingly charming concrete square. Sizzling meat and corn on the cob wafts through market stalls, which are brimming with trinkets and fragile floral headbands. Exquisitely wrapped in lace headscarves, women wander past meandering motorbikes and antiquated tramlines. The organised chaos is disorientating and grates spew steam into already misty streets, which are draped in fog that drifts in from the nearby port.

During my 15-minute walk to the Old City and Grand Bazaar, I see men wearing pillar box red Fez hats approach cars in gridlock traffic, selling hand-carved Ottoman bow

and arrows, while women balance gigantic baskets of braided Turkish buns.

Once a small vaulted bedestern (warehouse), built under Mehmet the Conqueror in 1461, the diverse and vibrant Grand Bazaar has developed into a vast, contorting maze of artisans and treasures.

Hunting a nazar boncugu (Blue Evil Eye) good luck charm, I’m comparing price after price; desperately trying my hand at bargaining. After wading through hundreds of knock-off Fendi handbags and boxes of Turkish delight, I’m finally getting a good price from a friendly local named Ishan.

He tells me about his Iranian fiancé, whose father he’s failing to impress. I wish him good luck, before shaking his hand goodbye.

What a fashionable fellow, I thought, as his handshake revealed several gold, chunky chain bracelets.

The Blue Mosque is arguably Istanbul’s most awe-inspiring building, with its curvaceous exterior features and six slender minarets. Blue iznik tiles decorate the interior, numbering in the tens of thousands, giving the building it’s unofficial but beloved name. Built under Sultan Ahmet, the courtyard is the biggest of all the Ottoman mosques.

A destination of great value in the past as well as the present, Istanbul embraces Asia on one side and Europe on the other.

Regardless of where you’re from, this magical meeting place between the east and the west has top-notch attractions to spare.

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Destinations Costa Rica

Alex Robinson encounters smoking volcanoes, cloudshrouded jungle, beautiful beaches and flocks of toucans as he savours Costa Rica’s thrillingly different Caribbean idyll

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Destinations Costa Rica Opening pages: Arenal volcano national park.

These pages: Monteverde cloud forest reserve.

I

slipped out of the boat onto the warm sand, liquid-smooth around my toes.

It’s as black as squid ink, a mix of crushed lava and coral, broken by waves over millennia. Federico, the guide, has rushed ahead. We hear him, his voice thin against the crash of the surf. He’s excited.

“Un nido! Tortugas. Come quick!’”

He’s standing over a patch of broken beach and pointing down. I see nothing. Then there’s a twitch of movement, a cluster of tiny turtles iron-grey in the dark sand. I could fit them inside a coconut shell. It’s a miracle he spotted them. They’re barely moving. Most are as still as a photograph.

Are they dead? “No. They’ve just hatched,” says Federico. “They’ll move again in a minute.” The biggest one does, at first with a shuffle, then lurching to life, scurrying towards the sea. Soon dozens follow and the empty beach is alive with movement. As the baby turtles reach the surf, the clouds part, lighting the waves and the sand in shafts of late-afternoon sunlight. The beach stretches black against the bottlegreen Atlantic, receding into forested hills. Kilometres away, mist is rising from the trees, steamed by the sun into clouds, soon to fall again as rain. The air is filled with music: the chorus of tree frogs, birds singing, the percussion of the waves. It’s all classic Caribbean.

Or rather it is - but with a twist. A few months earlier I’d been squeezed into a carriage on a London Tube with a friend I hadn’t seen for a while. I was pale and puffy, but he looked sickeningly tanned and fit. What was his secret? “Caribbean sunshine”, he replied. Jamaica? “Not exactly”, he answered, whipping out his mobile and flashing a series of stunning pictures: a towering volcano, toucans flying over verdant rainforest and a strip of sand set between headlands of foliage.

Costa Rica. How intrepid, was all I could muster. But such a cinch, he said, disappearing into the crowds. By the time the Tube had juddered into Covent Garden, I’d resolved to follow him. Costa Rica, I soon discovered, is a far-flung paradise.

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The volcanoes my friend had shown me run through its central mountains; those virgin rainforests spread wild across the south. In 10 days I’d see them all in comfort and at leisure (the country is tiny). And I’d get a few days to unwind on some glorious Pacific beaches.

Tortuguero, on the Atlantic coast, was the perfect place to start my Costa Rican discovery. Federico was a mine of information, and the turtles were hypnotising, as they began the autumn hatching season. Other wildlife was equally exuberant – I spent three days in a whirl of brilliant-green macaws in flocks floating over pristine forests; caimans basking on river beaches; and sloths hanging sleepily in fan-like cecropia trees.

Ready to explore more, I took a 20-minute flight to San José, where I picked up a

Costa Rica, I soon discovered, is a farflung paradise hire car, and soon found myself driving on winding roads over misty hills, through valleys green with coffee plantations and banana trees, to Arenal. This perfectly conical volcano fumes into a clear-blue sky, veiled with myriad waterfalls, clothed in lush vegetation. I washed away what was left of London with a swim in the icy Rio Fortuna cascade, which plunges into a deep pool set in a rainforest glade. I also warmed myself in the hot springs gushing from the mountainside – at the Nayara Springs Hotel they are diverted into private plunge pools.

The steamy mineral water was luxuriously soothing under the shimmering stars and, after a long soak, I slept on beautifully cool white cotton.

Arenal’s forests are filled with the kind of wildlife you won’t find in your average all-inclusive resort. At the Mistico Reserve, I walked across rope bridges strung above the canopy. Metres away, toucans flitted through leaves and velvety-black howler

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Destinations Costa Rica

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January 2016 World Traveller These pages, anti-clockwise from top left: Arenal volcano and national park; Finsch’s parakeet; Tiered waterfalls at Tabacon hot springs; La Paz Waterfall Gardens.

Next pages: Volcano crater; Volcano at twilight (left); Tortuguero River (right).

Where To Stay Andaz Peninsula Papagayo-A Hyatt Hotel A vibrant, stylish and indigenous luxury resort; nature-inspired in its design-details and nestled in Culebra Bay, with breathtaking views of sapphire blue sea. To book your 5-star stay, visit dnatatravel.com or call +971 4 316 6666.

monkeys delicately plucked fruit from the trees. At night the soothing sounds of the forest lulled me into deep sleep.

More spectacular scenery lay ahead: after a couple of days I watched Arenal’s peak shrink in the rear-view mirror as I began a convoluted journey around the mountains.

I cut through the Cordillera, Costa Rica’s central ridge – past volcanic lakes, before dropping onto a rocky plain, dotted with more volcanoes. Three hours later and I was at the bar of the Rio Perdido resort – in time to see the sun sink orange over hazy mountains, ice-cold drink in hand.

My room was a brightly-coloured pod on stilts in a forest chirruping with cicadas – incongruously artificial in the heart of unspoilt nature, but comfortable, all the same. I heard the eerie call of coyotes at night and woke to golden light, the rat-atat of woodpeckers – and a wildlife walk in search of forest cats. It was the perfect precursor to a hot-water swim in the limpid stream that gives Rio Perdido its name: the ‘Lost River’ slowly oozes from the wide base of Miravalles volcano, delicately steaming through a hidden valley shaded by butterflyfilled trees.

The next morning, after a drive from Rio Perdido to the city of Liberia, I boarded a tiny turbo-prop to Golfito, in Costa Rica’s far south. From the window of the plane, the views were simply to-fly-for – a strip of coast to the right, a spine of volcanic mountains to the left. But as soon as I could begin to take it in, we began to drop, flying low over peaks dense with steamy vegetation that fell into an emeraldgreen valley. I saw dolphins in the water, fishermen casting a broad bellnet. A cluster of houses gathered around a church, then we skidded onto a runway cut from the forest. Just 70 minutes after taking off, I

climbed out into what felt like a different country, the air perfumed with the scent of tropical trees.

Two athletic-looking guides welcomed me.

“Hi, I’m Veronica,” said a twentysomething.

“And I’m José,” said her chiselled companion, the muscles rippling in his tanned forearms. Both wore fawn shorts and khaki shirts stamped with ‘Playa Nicuesa Rainforest Lodge’ – I could imagine them both abseiling waterfalls.

We set off in a 4WD then climbed into a speedboat, which whisked around the edge of the Golfo Dulce inlet, past whooping gulls, more dolphins and countless coves fringed with little black-sand beaches. The forest towered behind them. A flock of scarlet macaws cackled loudly.

The Playa Nicuesa Lodge lay tucked away under trees behind a coal-dark sandy bay, hidden in a tropical garden brilliant with red heliconia, creamy orchids and the flickering flight of sapphire-blue and emerald-green hummingbirds. World-class wilderness – and not a mosquito in earshot. Veronica

At night, the soothing sounds of the forest lulled me to sleep handed me a welcome drink, tangy and sharp – tropical maracuyá passion fruit with a kick of lime, ginger and sugar-cane.

“Ready for a rainforest hike?” she asked.

For sure I was – I couldn’t wait to walk among the towering trees I’d seen from the plane. So after a lunch of red snapper and ginger-sautéed vegetables, and energised by the sun and sea, we set off. The sun was high in the sky, the air humid and sticky – then we entered the forest and the air cooled. I was amazed by how little light 59

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penetrated to the forest floor. And it was the silent. Where were all the animals?

We stopped at the base of a tropical cedar – its jutting buttress roots as big as buses, its trunk a tower of wood twice as broad as a Land Rover. Then came a shuffle in the undergrowth, a thick pungent smell and a chitter of teeth. I dimly made out a shape a few metres ahead. Then another. The hairs rose on my arms.

“Peccary!” I shouted. I’d seen a documentary about these Labrador-sized pigs, which rather dramatically described them as the piranhas of the rainforest, marauding through the trees in bands, trampling and chewing anything that gets in their way. I began to sweat. Veronica and José froze. Were they terrified too? No. They were laughing.

Shouldn’t we climb a tree or something?

“They aren’t dangerous,” said Veronica.

Wrong species, she explained. These were collared peccary, not white-lipped. My fear faded into embarrassment.

Further up the trail, we saw jaguar footprints in the mud, a boa twisted round a forest vine, and a gang of whitefaced capuchin monkeys, one with a tiny baby clinging to its back. Then the forest cleared and for half an hour we scrambled up a rocky river valley before reaching a beautiful waterfall – a rushing stream of

white water plunging over a moss-covered cliff into a cool pool. It was deliciously fresh and clean enough to drink. I swam openmouthed, gulping in the pure rainforest mineral water. The sparkling river and oxygenated air left me feeling nearly 10 years younger.

I spent the next few days fishing, kayaking through mangroves in search of crocodiles, and learning to make a rum cocktail – with crushed sugar-cane and pink ginger I’d dug

Kayaking through mangroves in search of crocodiles myself from the Lodge’s garden. But soon the beach was calling: time to move on to my final stop, Santa Teresa. This tiny surf town on the northwest coast is where Matt Damon, Leonardo DiCaprio and Kate Moss go when they don’t want to be seen. They fly in by helicopter. My wallet wouldn’t stretch quite that far, so back at Liberia airport I took keys to another rental car and spent three hours winding round some of the roughest, steepest roads I’ve ever driven, cursing at every switchback-turn. There were resorts nearer Liberia, so why had I chosen the remotest? Then as the sun was low in the evening sky, I dropped down the

last hillside and saw Santa Teresa beach before me. There were no houses – they must be hidden beneath the trees – only kilometres of sandy bays, broken by forested mountain spurs, washed by Pacific waves. A surfer caught one of them, riding it into the coast as light glinted off his board.

Here was a place for body-surfing the waves, ambling along the beaches, watching the monkeys watching me shower from my open-roofed bathroom – and, on my final day, taking a yoga session with Cristina Kalyani Paes, whom I found via a notice in the town’s wholefood cafe, Zwart. She teaches yoga to Gisele, Matt Damon and a host of other names, but didn’t seem fazed.

On the stroll across the sand towards Manzanillo beach, she pointed out her house – it was set in a green valley behind the beach. Gisele lived next door.

Supermodel neighbour, supermodel setting… I could quite understand when Cristina explained to me how Costa Rica had changed her – how it had washed away all her ambitions and anxieties. “I came for a long holiday, but simply couldn’t keep away,” she said. She had me stretching in ways I never believed I could. I felt lithe – and, after 10 minutes’ meditating to the sound of the waves – utterly Zen-calm, as ready for the flight back home, I supposed, as I’d ever be.

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Destinations Morocco

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FAM ILY MAT TERS Marvellous Morocco is becoming hugely popular as a family destination as it offers your brood mountains, surfing, trekking and the desert

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Destinations Morocco Opening pages: Sharp corners on Atlas Mountain road.

This page: Sardines at the market (left); palm tree shadows against orange-red clay walls, giving Marrakech its nickname as the ‘Red City’ (right).

Opposite page: Koutoubia Mosque.

D

ubai has ruined my children. OK, there was a five-pool beach resort in the Seychelles that winged them first, and an all-inclusive in Halkidiki that left some scars, but it was Dubai that really finished them off. Ask them now what travel is all about and they’ll tell you: breakfast buffets and water flumes. They need recalibrating with some actual travel.

So where to go for half term? Morocco.

Neither too in-your-face-India, nor too comfy-cosy-Europe, Morocco is a perfect blend of the familiar and the exotic. Old men in djellabas drive camel carts through crowded streets, the call-to-prayer paints mystery onto the evening air - but you’re never too far from a pain au chocolat.

Blimey, it’s an intimidating start. First off, the pilot has to abort landing because there are dogs on the runway. “Why don’t their owners have them on leads?” asks the 10-year-old. Next we’re driven through the night, kids blinking like baby owls at the backfiring mopeds and oil-drum bonfires beside the road. We have promised them honeyed scents and turreted kasbahs instead, a fetid mist of burning plastic and open drains hangs like disappointment over

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unfinished buildings and roadside rubble.

A cow wanders into the road. A lorry drifts across our lane. What have we done?

Eventually - and by ‘eventually’ I mean after three hours of staring at oncoming headlights and silently thanking the wife she didn’t let me hire a car - we reach our first stop, Rebali Riads, a gated sanctuary of six villas in Sidi Kaouki village, just back from the beach, 20km south of Essaouira.

Jasmine incense wafts through our twostorey, whitewashed home; bougainvillea petals drift across our private pool; brays echo below the roof terrace. “It’s got donkeys,” coos the seven-year-old, eyes aflame. We sip mint tea, listen to the beckoning wash of sea on sand, and crane our necks towards the Milky Way. What I wasn’t aware of is that this is the start of what will become the best three days of our lives.

If you could dream up your family hotel, Rebali Riads is what it would probably look like: private and communal pools, a tennis court, a garden sheltering chameleons and tortoises, and a tiny, twinkling army of smiling staff serving the freshest homecooked food direct to your villa garden.

Crucially, there are also loads of kids.

For hour upon sunsoaked hour the wife and I read books by the pool, while the kids whack forehands, pester reptiles and perfect dive-bombs with their brand new best friends.

So far, it’s Happy Families, but how’s the food. Forget international cuisine — the food at Rebali Riads is of the taginey, couscousy, unashamedly local variety.

“It tastes sort of natural,” says one of the kids, turmeric-tinged argan oil dribbling down his chin. However, step beyond the riad walls to visit the beach and you’re straight into a decidedly un-five-star world of tethered donkeys, barefoot shepherd kids and skinny cows, with only a handful of modest guesthouses among the scrubby farmland to remind you that this is a popular beach resort.

OK, you can (and we do) indulge your inner-tourist with camel treks, cafe lunches and paying far too much for supposedly ‘antique Bedouin’ coffee grinders in the beguiling maze of whitewashed alleys that is Essaouira. But we also play beach football with local lads, walk along the sand to a fishing settlement and watch the catch

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January 2016 World Traveller These pages, anti-clockwise from top left: Fishing boats moored amidst morning mist; the old medina of Marrakech; Moroccan pottery at market; the distinctive blue door at the House of Artists in Essaouira.

come in. We trek up to the mud-brick house of Rebali Riads’ gardener, Hussain, where his mum serves up a magnificent chicken tagine and chats merrily in Arabic, the boys smiling in willing bemusement. I’m not saying it suddenly makes them Wilfred Thesiger, but it’s a start.

If Rebali Riads has been the best three days of our lives, the next part of our trip — a trek in the Atlas Mountains — is odds-on favourite to be the worst. Before coming to Morocco we have warmed up for the trek with Sunday walks near home. Tantrums have been thrown, insults hurled — and that’s just me. The Sunday before we leave, the seven-year-old has collapsed in a heap besides the path because, as he says, “You are ruining my childhood”.

Mercifully, Morocco turns out to be different. We walk seven hours on the first day, six hours the next, with two 2,100m passes and temperatures in the mid-200Cs, yet not a single strop is had. It helps having a guide, Mohamed, who coaxes and cajoles the seven-year-old like a chirpy, fun uncle; and pack mules are a handy bonus, providing ear-stroking opportunities at lunch and piggy-back rides towards the parched end of the first day.

Ultimately, however, it is the sheer, seductive novelty of this utterly foreign landscape that startles and distracts them: the period villages, the children tending goats, the women singing in the walnut groves. We pass a house where a boy of about eight is busy mixing concrete and smoothing over a crack in the wall. “Is that his job?” asks the 10-year-old, quickening his pace. “Does he go to school?” Immersed in this new reality, all three are quietly bursting with thoughts and ideas.

Life lessons aside, it is also just a fantastically Boy’s Own adventure.

Arriving at our overnight camp at the head of the Azzaden Valley, I hear the 10-yearold singing to himself “we’re in the middle of nowhere”. Mohamed lights a campfire, a moon crests the mountaintops, the muleteers invite us into the kitchen tent and teach the kids Berber. Three spoonfuls into his soup, the seven year-old falls asleep, his dusty face squashed against a mule-scented saddle blanket. Tintin never had it so good.

It is a hard act to follow. We end the trek at Kasbah du Toubkal, a converted kasbah at the foot of Mount Toubkal, North Africa’s highest peak. It’s quite an incredible experience. We sip mint tea on the rooftop terrace and play cards beneath an amphitheatre of peaks. Children chatter in the walnut groves, goats bleat from the hills; it is beautiful. But in truth our hearts are still back in that kitchen — trekking tent, cockles warmed by the light of a flickering kerosene lamp. When, after two days, it is time for Marrakech, we are ready.

Or at least we thought we were: it is a veritable Gomorrah of medieval sights and

Children chatter in the walnut groves, goats bleat from the hills smells, the souks a tangled labyrinth of carpet shops and spice stalls, hair salons and hammams. It is an Ali Baba and the Forty Thieves film set made flesh and blood, and to get to our hotel — a converted 18thcentury townhouse called Riad el Zohar in the oldest section of the souks - we have to walk 15 gobsmacked minutes through its very heart, following an ever-narrowing, ever-darkening, ever-more romantic tangle of crumbling alleyways. The 10-year-old clings to my arm and whispers: “I feel like Indiana Jones”.

So what adventures does Marrakech bring our little Indies? Well, we ogle snakecharmers and acrobats in Djemma el Fna square, we haggle for football shirts in the souks, we play yet more cards on the rooftop sofa of our exquisite hotel, as the call-to-prayer floats and falls towards a crimson wall of Atlas summits.

On our last night, returning with the 10-year-old from a pummelling at a hammam, I stumble across the rest of the family in a barber’s shop. The seven-yearold is having his hair cut, the 12-year-old is talking Manchester United with the barber and has a kitten on his lap, while the wife is sipping mint tea.

I’m not sure exactly what it was I’d hoped for from this trip, but this, I realise, is pretty close to it.

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Weekends

Two days is still plenty of time to travel

Six Senses Zighy Bay

72 The Big Five: New Year’s Resolutions 74 48 Hours In Munich 75 Staycations 78 Reader Offers

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Weekends Munich For All...

One Weekend For All...

MUNICH

Where to go and where to stay when in the city – here’s your inspiration from the experts at World Traveller

The romantic one

From its exquisite scenery and riverside views, to its intriguing museums and scrumptious brews, Munich embodies the best of Bavaria.

This January, treat your other half to a long weekend or midweek escape. Dine outdoors in the city’s graceful English Gardens, wander through spectacular arboretums, or dance the night away at the Haidhausen.

Munich’s snow-smothered landscape and awe-inspiring mountaintop castles have long inspired chivalrous fairytales, and the 19th century Neuschwanstein Castle is one of Germany’s most amorous destinations. Just a two-hour train ride from Munich, you don’t get a more picturesque setting than this dramatic hilltop fortress.

The rooftop views from the luxury Bayerischer Hof and classically-styled Kempinski are as unbelievably romantic as they are memorable. Le Potager at Le Méridien is also well worth a visit; its innovative kitchen creates international flair and timeless elegance. Offering a selection of sophisticated dishes packed with seasonal ingredients, it’s ideal for an intimate evening for two.

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The family-friendly one

Brimming with Florentine architecture and Teutonic traditions, whether it’s Weisswurst or Lederhosen, there’s a lot more to this dynamic city than you might initially expect.

If you’re travelling with children, Hotel Bavaria’s a comfortable and convenient place to stay if you’re hoping to make the most of your limited time in Munich.

Admire the looming neogothic Neues Rathaus in Marienplatz and its famous life-sized Glockenspiel figurines, which reenact historical Bavarian events. The bustling Viktualienmarkt is the city’s oldest open-air farmer’s market, dating back to 1807. With so much to see and sample, your kids will be forever entertained with garlands of sausages, mountains of fresh fruits and pyramids of chocolate.

The baroque Nymphenburg Palace used to be the luxury summer residence of Bavaria’s monarchs, and is often considered Europe’s most majestic royal residence. The Tierpark Hellabrun zoo is also a fun outing for the whole family, in addition to the Deutsches Museum, a huge science institution.

The adventurous one

Modish restaurants, vibrant bars and abundant shopping make Munich a fascinating destination. The Muncheners are a welcoming people and extremely proud of their quality of life. It’s little wonder that a quarter of all Germans say they would like to live here.

Attractions for theatre lovers, opera fanatics and cabaret fans are truly endless.

In Eisbach, scores of people gather over a bridge, cheering on wetsuit-clad thrill seekers who take turns surfing on an artificially created wave.

Hotel Rothof is also known for its customised workouts, in addition to exquisite rooms and excellent food.

A popular hangout for conscientious locals, The Potting Shed provides a stylish setting for sustainable dining and drinking. Food is an important part of Bavarian culture, so remember to grab a piping-hot coffee and toasty schmalznudel pastry in between sightseeing sessions.

There’s no better way to explore Munich than by bike.

Pre-book bike rental and enjoy one of Europe’s most cycle-friendly cities, and its surrounding picturesque countryside, via pedal power.

January 2016 World Traveller

The restful one

Munich boasts several lavish five-star hotels, but the Mandarin Oriental offers visitors a rejuvenating hospitality experience. Enjoy incredible 360-degree views from a stunning rooftop swimming pool. The fitness centre features a Turkish steam bath and Finnish sauna, infused with therapeutic fragrances to promote deep relaxation.

As you’d expect from a major destination, Munich doesn’t disappoint when shopping’s the preferred choice of entertainment. The exclusive designer stores of Maximilianstraße are a paradise for fashionistas. After a morning browsing the shops, why not treat yourself to a traditional spezi? Marvel at the array of delicacies on offer at the ten-meter long cake counter in Café Luipold.

Afterwards visit Bayerische Staatsbibliothek, which has been an important universal library since it was founded in 1558. With almost nine million volumes, it’s a great place to relax and learn about the regional culture. If you’re just passing by, check out the famous stone statues that decorate the grand staircase, popularly known as ‘the four magi’.

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Weekends Big Five

BIG FIVE

new year’s resolutions Destinations in harmony with promises of self-improvement

1.

Make a Difference Agra, India Dip into the world of voluntourism on a custom-made luxury trip entwined with the feel-good factor of giving back. This is an accessible way to blend sightseeing with community assistance; add ‘lending a hand’ to your itinerary by engaging in exciting activities such as teaching, building-repairs or wildlife conservation. handsupholidays.com Stay at: Amarvilas This is an eco-luxury residence with a refreshing business philosophy, exceptional levels of hospitality, and stunning views of the Taj Mahal. oberoihotels.com

2.

Recharge the Senses Zighy Bay, Oman A weekend in the majestic and rugged ‘Norway of the Middle East’ is more than enough to achieve emotional equilibrium and start the New Year on the right track. Serenely sail on a dhow, dine open-air Bedouin style, and indulge in enough wellness to secure a state of relaxation.

Stay at: Six Senses Its spa is a proclaimed ‘refuge for mind and body … a sanctuary of ultimate well-being’, and a menu of holistic treatments ensures peace on your getaway to the Musandam Peninsula. sixsenses.com

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January 2016 World Traveller

3.

Try Something New… Yas Island, Abu Dhabi New year, no fear: shake your comfort zone at Yas Island.

Strap into the world’s fastest rollercoaster at Ferrari World, test your limits on wild rides

at Yas Waterworld, or get behind the wheel in a Formula Yas 300 racecar. Looking for a more-serene new experience?

Master your swing at Yas Links Golf Academy, or attempt windsurfing, kayaking and paddleboarding at Yas Beach.

Stay at: Yas Viceroy Abu Dhabi Built across a hotbed of exhilaration – Yas F1 circuit – but where you can pause to return your heart to restingrate in 5-star surroundings. viceroyhotelsandresorts.com

4.

Get Active Prague, Czech Republic Ease into healthy-habits with an energetic visit to ‘Praha’.

See the city on-foot, such as a brisk walk along the Charles Bridge to Malá Strana with gorgeous views of the Vltava.

Raise the pulse further by hiring a bike to cycle the centuries-old trade route of Greenways, or embark on a self-guided ‘Lenovo tablet tour’ with the tourism secrets of Prague in your palm. citybike-prague.com Stay at: The Mark Luxury Hotel Located in the heart of Prague, mere calorie-burning steps from Hybernia Theatre and the temptations of the Palladium Shopping Centre. mprague.cz

5.

Digital Detox Madagascar 30 minutes by boat from Nosy Be island lies this untouched, protected paradise; fulfill your promise to disconnect from tech and reconnect with the real world. Explore the Ampasindava penisula by boat or slide into the water to scuba

dive among marine turtles. Onshore, this is the land of lemurs, black parrotts, private beaches, waterfalls and natural pools.

Stay at: Eden Lodge No phone signal, no wi-fi, no TV... no worries. Switch off the smartphone at this 100% solarpowered eco-lodge, and switch off your stress. edenlodge.net 73

January 2016 World Traveller

Staycations

Desirable hospitality havens on the GCC doorstep, for a relaxing weekend escape

PER AQUUM Desert Spa Doha Marriott Hotel Peace & Polo Bliss on the Bay minorhotels.com/peraquum

marriott.com

Hyatt Capital Gate Inclined to Relax

Al Bustan Palace Beachfront Retreat

Location

Location

Location

Location

In a Nutshell

In a Nutshell

In a Nutshell

In a Nutshell

‘Arabian avant garde.’ A chic, desert retreat with stately polo fields, elegance and tranquility in abundance

A landmark on the Doha skyline, the Marriott is revered for its private beach and top health and fitness facilities

Luxury in an elevated oasis.

Modern architecture inspired an iconic 180 incline and nickname – ‘Leaning Tower of Abu Dhabi’

A Ritz-Carlton product of the highest order; a majestic hotel with the perfect ingredients for families and couples alike

On-site Allure

On-site Allure

On-site Allure

On-site Allure

The LIME Spa, with its bespoke, signature treatments; The Refinery for men, from Mayfair; a stunning infinity pool; landscaped gardens overlooking the magnificent city skyline

7 acclaimed places to dine; access to its own beach, and watersports; 24-hour fitness centre with expert personal trainer available; spa with an extensive wellness menu

A suspended outdoor pool; Rayana, a ‘spa in the sky’ experience; direct access to Abu Dhabi National Exhibition Centre (ADNEC); close to the brilliant Abu Dhabi Golf Club

BLU, the pool and garden lounge area with views of the sea; a 38-metre-high domed atrium lobby; 200 acres of white beaches and green gardens; the ultimate romantic setting

In-Suite

In-Suite

In-Suite

In-Suite

King-sized slumber and hightech surroundings. Among the 38 guest hideaways is Villa Layali – a plush and contemporary Presidential Suite

Presidential suites: comfortable living spaces with sink-into sofas, heavy curtains, and patterned bed throws atop luxury Marriott bedding

167 open-plan, spacious suites have sleek design lines, coffeeand-cream hues, floor-to-ceiling windows, rain showers, and marble bathrooms

The Presidential Mountain View Suite is 3,300 sq. ft. haven of comfort with panoramic outlooks, soothing decor, and dining space for up to 8 guests

Cuisine

Cuisine

Cuisine

Cuisine

Fine-dine on the terrace at Rare, where superb steaks and lobster tails taste all the better for the marvellous al fresco setting

JW’s Steakhouse meets every carnivorous craving, serving succulent prime grade Angus Beef in a smart-casual setting

Named after the hotels visual calling-card, 180 restaurant is the perfect place to enjoy stunning panoramic views

Award-winning Al Khiran serves delights all-day, from scrumptious breakfast to an international lunch buffet

Dubai In enough isolation for peace, yet within a brief chauffeurdriven ride of the city centre

Qatar On the Gulf Bay coastline, near Doha Corniche waterfront and the meeting point, Souq Waqif

abudhabi.capitalgate.hyatt.com

Abu Dhabi In a leisure and business locale, within a walk of the embassy and government districts

ritzcarlton.com/albustan

Oman Tucked between Al Hajar and the Sea of Oman; the place to write a memorable travel story

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January 2016 World Traveller

Weekends Abu Dhabi News

City of chAmpioNs A desert showdown of elite sporting stars at Abu Dhabi HSBC Golf Championship

Yas Links

A

generous 2.7 million dollar winners-purse awaits the victor of the 11th iteration of this European Tour event, held from January 21-24 at the city’s Abu Dhabi Golf Club. Household names Rory McIlroy, Jordan Spieth, Rickie Fowler and Henrik Stenson have their eyes on the prize… or will a challenger from the field emerge to take the crown?

The attention of the sporting world on this annual tournament naturally brings the UAE capital’s world-class courses to the fore, and Abu Dhabi has an array of stunning venues worthy of the spotlight: the tournament-hosting Abu Dhabi Golf Club; the picturesque duo of beachfront Saadiyat and coastline Yas Island Links, and the lush equestrian club environs of Al Ain, the Garden City. Tailored travel packages iron out every detail, from transportation and tee-times to off-course cultural attractions – making for an ideal escape to this golfing great of an emirate. See golfinabudhabi.com 76

Rickie Fowler

Weekends dnata Offers

WORLD TRAVELLER

Weekend Reader Offers Radisson Blu Deira Creek

St. Regis Dubai

Oman Six Senses Zighy Bay

1 night from USD605 per person Special offer: Complimentary upgrade to Half Board Includes: Stay in a Pool Villa with breakfast and dinner Validity: Now ‘til Feb 29, 2016

Oman Al Bustan Palace, A RitzCarlton Hotel

1 night from USD209 per person Special offer: 30% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in a Mountain View Room with breakfast Validity: Now ‘til Jan 31, 2016

St. Regis Saadiyat Island

UAE St. Regis Dubai

1 night from USD282 per person Special offer: Complimentary upgrade to Executive Suite Includes: Stay in a Grand Deluxe Room Validity: Jan 3-Apr 9, 2016

UAE St. Regis Saadiyat Island Resort

1 night from USD209 per person Special offer: Complimentary upgrade to half board Includes: Stay in a superior room with breakfast Validity: Now ‘til Feb 13, 2016 78

Al Bustan Palace, A Ritz-Carlton Hotel

Sofitel Dubai The Palm

January 2016 World Traveller

Six Senses Zighy Bay

St. Regis Dubai

UAE Sofitel The Palm Dubai

1 night from USD175 per person Special offer: 15% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in a Luxury Sea View Room with breakfast daily Validity: Now ‘til Mar 31, 2016

UAE The H Hotel

1 night from USD171 per person Special offer: 30% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfast Validity: Jan 12-Feb 15, 2016

UAE Radisson Blu Deira Creek 1 night from USD82 per person Special offer: 15% room rate reduction Includes: Stay in a Standard Room with breakfast Validity: Now til Feb 29, 2016

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Weekends Suite Dreams

Suite Dreams

What: Abu Dhabi Suite Where: St. Regis Abu Dhabi About:

1120m2 of pure luxury. This suite, which sleeps eight, is a premier slice of St. Regis sophistication, boasting stunning panoramic views from its two-storeys on the 48th and 49th floors. Step through a private entrance into an extraordinary, welcoming enclave, with its chocolate-box hues, spaciousness, and an array of unique features. The suite houses a cinema, a spa with sauna, gym, double-height majlis, and a skybridge living room suspended between the hotel’s towers. Three bedrooms, three bathrooms, two powder rooms, and a lounge bar round off the appealing collection of amenities. Stay here on your visit to Abu Dhabi, and you might be tempted to remain in-room and neglect the outside world. stregisabudhabi.com 80

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