World Traveller July'14

THE REGION’S BIGGEST LU XURY TR AV EL M AGAZINE

July 2014

Complimentary Copy

Issue Seventy Five

ALL ABOUT

EID

Produced in International Media Production Zone

FROM BARCELONA TO SINGAPORE, WHERE WILL YOU GO?

INDIAN

PALACE

HOTELS LIVE LIKE A MAHARAJA IN RAJASTHAN’S FORMER PALACES

LET’S GO

USA

26 PAGES OF AMERICAN ADVENTURES

BARGAIN

WEEKEND

BREAKS INCREDIBLE OFFERS FOR SHORT-HAUL ESCAPES

InterContinental速 Danang Sun Peninsula Resort

THE SEARCH FOR A MORE REWARDING LIFE WILL LEAD YOU BACK SOONER.

2X

POINTS

As a member of IHGŽ Rewards Club you will now earn 10 points for every US$1 charged to your room at InterContinentalŽ Hotels & Resorts. Which means you could reach Reward Nights at your favourite hotel up to three times faster. To celebrate we’re also offering double points on dining, drinks and in-room services enjoyed during your stays between 1 July and 31 October 2014.

And that’s not all. Exclusive to IHG Rewards Club members, you will now enjoy complimentary Internet access. Book directly on our sites now and get our lowest price – or you’ll get a night, on us.

Do you live an InterContinental life?

Register for your double IHGÂŽ Rewards Club points now at intercontinental.com/2X Not a member? Sign up at ihgrewardsclub.com

# !

! " $

$

$

Š 2014 IHG. All Rights Reserved. Most hotels are independently owned and operated.

Editor’s Note Issue Seventy Five, July 2014

Managing Director

Victoria Thatcher Editorial Director

John Thatcher Business Development Director

Jason Brown Editor

Tracey Scott Deputy Editor

Richard Jenkins Features Editor

Lara Brunt Senior Designer

Adam Sneade Designer & Illustrator

Andy Knappett Production Manager

Chalitha Fernando To contact any of the above people, email firstname@hotmediapublishing.com

Jun-Dec 2013 | 23,167 | BPA Consumer Audit Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller.

Talk of the WT tower this month is Eid: how to celebrate it, where to celebrate it and with whom. Is the holiday a time for you to discover a new city (how does Vienna sound?), expand your palate (ever tasted food from a hawker centre in Singapore?), or book that holiday of a lifetime (Queensland, anyone?)? Whatever trip you’re hankering after, our Eid destination guide on page 26 will steer you in the right direction.

Much like the Great Wildebeest Migration in Africa, the GCC experiences a comparable mass exodus in July due to the heat. And with the USA being a popular destination for long-haul vacations, we’ve bundled up the best of America into a 26-page feature special (page 41). To kick things off, Edmund Vallance discovers why Downtown LA is thriving, while inappropriate footwear doesn’t stop Joanna Walters from wading through the swamps in the Everglades. A handful of New York’s top chefs take WT on a culinary tour around the Big Apple, plus seasoned traveller Douglas Rogers retraces a slice of history in Virginia.

And for those of you staying in the region this month, turn to page 69 for some short-haul inspiration.

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494

3

Enjoy the issue.

Cover: Grand Hotel Central, Barcelona.

Tracey Scott tracey@hotmediapublishing.com

@WT_Magazine World Traveller

July // 2014

42

CHECK IN 6-24

The Essentials Monte Carlo diamond suites, summer pop-ups, a guide to glamorous North Mayfair and a profile of Paris’ iconic Le Bristol Hotel.

23

Style & Beauty Summer wardrobe essentials, the best tanning products and unique spa treatments.

FEATURES 26

Eid Adventures The summer celebration is here – we’ve picked 10 of the best trips for an Eid escape.

USA SPECIAL

42

Downtown on the Up The oldest neighbourhood in Los Angeles is in its best health since the Roaring Twenties.

46

The Really Wild Show Joanna Walters gets up close and personal with the alligators of Florida’s Everglades.

56

New York’s Best Bites The city that never sleeps is home to some of the finest gastronomy in the world.

62

The Journey A road trip across Virginia starts in Washington D.C and charts a nation’s growth.

WEEKENDS

46 56

69-80 4

What to do with 48 hours in Amman, a guide to picking the perfect Iftar meal, and six stunning Indian palace hotels.

62 July // 2014

Check In The Essentials

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July // 2014

Despite a pretty strong desire to send tourists into space, Richard Branson still has plenty of exciting ideas for down here on planet earth. His Kenyan safari camp, Mahali Mzuri, is part of the Virgin Limited Edition collection, which offers the most unique retreats possible. Guests stay in luxury tents overlooking the plains – perfect for spotting some wildlife from bed. July and August will also see over half a million wildebeest take part in their annual migration to Masai Mara, packing the area with wildlife. mahalimzuri.virgin.com

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July // 2014

In

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DESTINATION

NORTH MAYFAIR London is a millionaire’s playground, and the most stylish people like to play in Mayfair. Recently, the north of the area has emerged as the cutting edge of cool when it comes to restaurants and retail.

Mount Street’s luxury credentials, already home to Lanvin, Dunhill and Vivienne Westwood, are to be further boosted by superbrands like Céline, Christopher Kane and Roksanda Ilincic Ü >Ài > «i } y>}Ã « stores this summer. As well as this, the shopping mecca is augmented by £10 million of public realm work, including a new fountain, ‘Silence’, designed by Tadao Ando.

The newly opened Duke Street Emporium is this year’s must visit, bringing together high-end urban shopping, art, books and installations to form a social hub for the city – and all within sight of Selfridges.

Milliner du jour Laura Apsit Livens has just opened a store there, further proof that Duke Street is the epicentre of London cool. Linking Mount Street and Duke Street is Parisian cashmere brand Franck Namani, whose } À}i ÕÃ Þ ÕÝÕÀ ÕÃ wÀÃÌ 1 store opened last month.

For those with a more historical leaning, Mayfair has a long association with

private art galleries like Pace, Timothy Taylor and Haunch of Venison. In the battle to maintain relevance in the face of super-auctioneers like Christie’s, many exquisite works can be found at these smaller houses. To make things even more interesting, Gagosian is opening at 20 Grosvenor Hill. Work has already begun with TateHindle architects to create a double-height commercial art gallery, whose exterior will have just as much impact as the artworks inside – another feather in the cap for the team responsible for ensuring Mayfair’s public spaces are as thrillingly artistic as its shops and galleries.

At the end of a long day’s shopping, decadent dining is necessary. Mayfair’s gastronomic options have never been better. From Michel Roux Jr’s epochal Le Gavroche to steak haven Goodman and current trendsetting snack Lobster Roll, every cuisine is catered for. > Þ] ÀL E }½Ã wÀÃÌ boutiqe hotel The Beaumont, set behind Brown Hart Gardens, is opening soon – a perfectly cool spot to rest your head after a hard day in Ì i 1 ½Ã V>« Ì> ° If you’re London-bound this summer, stay ahead of the curve and check in to North Mayfair.

I WANT TO...

Inspiring ideas for your bucket list

…Swim in the Great Blue Hole Located 45 miles east of Ambergris Caye, Belize, the Great Blue Hole is an astonishing 1,000ft in diameter, and 460ft deep.

One of the most important geological destinations on earth, the hole was, thousands of years ago, an above ground

World Traveller

cave. As the world’s water levels rose, the roof collapsed in, forming this perfect circle.

Trips to visit the hole run daily and include snorkelling as well as diving options – as long as you’re staying at one of the three hotels on the island of Ambergris Caye.

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July // 2014

In

CHECK

MY CITY

One To Watch

Luke Mangan, a celebrity chef from Sydney, takes WT through his dream day I start my day with a walk and swim at Bondi Beach, and if it’s a Saturday, hit the Eveleigh Farmers’ Market for fresh «À `ÕVi > ` LÀi> v>ÃÌ >Ì Þ i Ü }½Ã stall, which serves fantastically fresh Chinese food.

If I had only 24 hours to explore the city, I would take a long walk around Sydney Harbour and The Rocks with a boat cruise around Rose Bay and Cockatoo Island. And I’d have dinner at Café Sydney for the most spectacular views of the harbour at night.

My hotels of choice are the Hilton Sydney Hotel, The Darling at The Star

Pyrmont or, if you can really afford to splurge, stay at Park Hyatt Sydney.

Next day, top up your energy levels with a long lazy lunch at Sean’s Panaroma and then clink glasses at Icebergs, which has unrivalled views of Bondi’s famous beach.

Most people don’t know this but Sydney has lots of hidden laneways in and around the city fringe with lots of cool bars and pubs – the fun part is exploring them. Finally, you can’t leave without hitting Golden Century for a late night feast of Peking duck and a drink at the harbourside Opera Bar.

- Ý -i Ãià à «ÕÌÌ } Ì i w à } touches on the stunning Duoro Valley Àià ÀÌ] Ìà wÀÃÌ ÕÀ «i° Õi Ì «i ëÀ } Óä£x] Ì i Û> iÞ Ã > 1 - " World Heritage site and the resort «À ÃiÃ Ì Li i v - Ý -i Ãiý w iÃÌ° The winding Duoro River twists its way past the resort and down to the Atlantic coast, passing through the oldest wineproducing region in the world.

VERSUS

Quirky summertime traditions

Cave Dwelling 10

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WIFE CARRYING WORLD CHAMPIONSHIPS

RUNNING OF THE BULLS

On July 5, Finland’s bizarre Wife Carrying World Championships occur in Sonkajärvi’s Market Square. You’re not allowed to keep the woman you carry (unless she’s actually your wife).

Spain’s famous “Running of the Bulls” event takes place in Pamplona on July 12, where hundreds of brave souls take to the streets ahead of six rampaging bulls. Not for the faint hearted.

The newly opened Iconic Santorini is a boutique cave hotel, in the idyllic village of Imerovigli. That’s right, it’s a cave – carved directly into the volcanic caldera wall, as close to nature as you can get.

But don’t be fooled, the hotel isn’t going to take you back to the stone ages – it’s a LÀi>Ì v wÛi ÃÌ>À ÕÝÕÀÞ Ü Ì > ÃÌÕ } spa, and the views aren’t bad either.

Perfect for a summertime getaway.

Gather for a traditional Iftar experience at Sheraton Dubai Mall of the Emirates Hotel Iftar at Sanabel Enjoy the best of Arabic cuisine with our signature roasted lamb ouzi and traditional Ramadan drinks. Extend your evening at Vantage Terrace with live coverage of the soccer games. For younger guests a dedicated kids’ corner with Wii and PlayStation awaits.

Ouzi to go Celebrate Iftar with friends and family and let us do the cooking for you, with our signature roasted lamb ouzi and traditional accompaniments to go.

Adults AED 135 Kids from 6-12 years old AED 67 Kids below 6 years old complimentary Special group prices upon request Sunset until 2 am

For 6 to 8 kg ouzi AED 895 ++ From 29th June through Eid, 2014 Please place your order 48 hours in advance

For more information, reservations and orders please call +971 4 377 2353 e – 03889.sanabel@sheraton.com or visit sheraton.com/dubaimalloftheemirates

©2013 Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, Sheraton and their logos are the trademarks of Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide, Inc., or its affiliates. For full terms and conditions, visit sheraton.com/dubaimalloftheemirates

In

CHECK

SUITE SPOT

WATCH THIS

Summer timepieces for every occasion – from the beach to the boardroom

Hôtel Hermitage MonteCarlo’s new Diamond Suites complete the luxury collection v Þ Õ Ûi vi Ì i v>ÃÌ > i] then Monte Carlo’s the place to be – not least to enjoy the F1 racing. Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo has unveiled its newest Diamond Suites, vviÀ } >ÃÌ Õ ` } Û iÜà v Ì i i` ÌiÀÀ> i> >à well as exceptional service – including a VIP welcome Ì >Ì « V Ã Þ Õ Õ« vÀ Vi Airport with drinks and y ÜiÀÃ] > ` Ì i Ìi ½Ã limousine service available to viÀÀÞ Þ Õ >À Õ ` Ì i V ÌÞ style. Our tip is to spend as much time as you can on the Ìi ½Ã À vÌ «] Ü iÀi Ì iÀi½Ã nothing between you and the blue sky above and the blue sea below.

Whatever your travel plans this summer, you’ll need the right watch on your wrist. The Calibre de Cartier

ÛiÀ Ü>ÌV ] Ì i LÀ> `½Ã wÀÃÌ] à «iÀviVÌ v À ÃVÕL> diving in the Seychelles. Meanwhile, Concord’s ->À>Ì }> L >V *6 à «iÀviVÌ v À > LÕà iÃà ÌÀ « where you need to look the part.

POP-UP

PERFECTION Summertime’s the place to grab > } Ì >Ì i v Ì iÃi V temporary treats

DESIGN HOTELS PROJECT RIO

SLEEPING AROUND

A ROOM FOR LONDON

7 Ì > v v Ì i 7 À ` Õ« ÃÌ Ì « >Þ] Design Hotels has popped up with The Club House, running through July. The colonial house is a neighbourhood hub and will be hosting barbecues, dinners and art exhibitions while it’s open – > Ü Ì } À}i ÕÃ Û iÜÃ v -Õ}>À >v Mountain.

ÕÀÀi Ì Þ v Õ ` >Ì Ì i , >> Antwerp, these luxe temporary suites have moved all over Europe. Made up v Ã Ý Óä v Ì Ã «« } V Ì> iÀÃ] Ì i ice-cool company doesn’t stay in one « >Vi v À } q à v Ƃ ÌÜiÀ« ` ià ½Ì Ì> i Þ ÕÀ v> VÞ] } Ûi Ì > viÜ Üii Ã] they’ll have moved somewhere else.

A ballot system decides nights at this Þ Ìi ° v Þ Õ½Ài ÕV Þ i Õ} Ì Li « V i`] Ì i Li>ÕÌ vÕ Þ VÀ>vÌi` ÃÕ Ìi ­ à `i > L >Ì Ì « v Ì i +Õii Elizabeth Hall in Southbank) is yours v À > } Ì° 7 Ì } i ÕÌ v i Ü ` Ü > ` -Ì° *>Õ ½Ã >Ì i`À> ÕÌ v Ì i Ì iÀ] ̽à > Vi > viÌ i ÃÌ>Þ°

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July // 2014

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In

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TRAVEL DOWNLOAD All the media you need, whatever your journey

Film

DAWN OF THE PLANET OF THE APES Caesar the ape leads a nation of genetically evolved apes into a war against the remaining humans, in this sequel-to-the-prequel blockbuster.

LUCY Scarlett Johansson plays a woman forced to transport a new and mysterious drug but accidentally takes it into her system, turning her from a mild-mannered babe into an indestructible warrior capable of incredible feats. This action thriller will leave you breathless.

Music

Books

LA ROUX Trouble in Paradise ̽à Lii wÛi Þi>Àà à Vi Ì i bequiffed singer’s hit debut, and some of the electro is replaced on this followup with warmer, full-band sounds.

MORRISSEY World Peace is None of Your Business The outspoken icon is back in classic Moz form, and there are plenty of targets for him to aim at. His voice is as impressive as ever.

THE SILKWORM Robert Galbraith JK Rowling’s alter ego is back with another stinging detective tale. Cormoran -ÌÀ i à LÀ Õ} Ì Ì w ` novelist Owen Quine – is he missing of his own accord, or something more sinister?

ANNA CALVI Strange Weather Mysterious singer-songwriter Calvi tackles various covers including work by David Bowie, Bruce Springsteen and R&B ingénue FKA Twigs.

CALIFORNIA Edan Lepucki LA, the distant future. Cal and Frida live in a shack far away from the crumbling city, and have to seek the shelter of a mysterious nearby community.

Apps

GATEGURU

VIATOR

VOCRE

OANDA

GateGuru shows you airport gems you might have missed, like San Francisco International Airport’s yoga room.

This app gives you great ideas on sightseeing, as well as saving you cash – it shows you deals and discounts on attractions near to you.

Ideal for international trips – this app translates whatever you say into the microphone into text in a language of your choice.

This free currency converter app lets you choose from over 190 currencies and even four different types of metal.

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What’s your most-used travel app? Let us know @WT_Magazine

July // 2014

Stay longer this summer at JW Marriott Marquis Dubai. ǯ ǡ Ƥ ǡ ơ Ǥ 1,608 LUXURIOUS GUEST ROOMS 9 INCREDIBLE RESTAURANTS, 5 BARS AND LOUNGES SUBLIME SARAY SPA AND HEALTH CLUB COMPLIMENTARY SHUTTLE BUS SERVICE TO DUBAI MALL STAY BETWEEN 1 JUNE AND 6 SEPTEMBER 2014 AND GET THE THIRD NIGHT COMPLIMENTARY, 33% OFF FOOD AND BEVERAGES, PLUS 33% OFF SPA TREATMENTS* QUOTE SUM AND BOOK THIS SPECIAL SUMMER OFFER NOW! ǡ ή͙͟͡ ͜ ͜​͜͡ ͘͟͠͝ǡ Ǥ Ǥ Ǥ ̻ Ǥ Ǥ

*

ơ ͙ ͞ ͚͙͘͜ Ǥ ͙͘ά ͙͘ά Ǥ ͚͘ Ǥ Ǥ Ǧ Ǥ Ǧ Ǥ Ǥ Ƥ ǡ Ǧ Ȁ Ǧ Ǥ ͛​͛ Ƭ ǡ Ǥ ͛​͛ Ȁ Ǥ ͙͚ Ǥ Ǥ ơ ǡ ǡ Ȁ Ǥ

DISCOVER SHARM EL SHEIKH WITH RIXOS PRIVILEGES #rhythmofrixos

A NEW LUXURY HOTEL & SPA IN THE NORTH COAST #rhythmofrixos

Scan the QR code to explore Sharm El Sheikh with Rixos privileges.

Scan the QR code to explore Alamein with Rixos privileges.

CATCH THE BEST OFFER! Hotline: +20 11 00000 255

Opening June 15th

A member of Global Hotel Alliance

South Sinai - Sharm El Sheikh - Nabq Bay, 46619 EGYPT P.O Box: 361 T: +20 69 3710 210 E: sharmelsheikh@rixos.com

140 km Alex-Matruh Road

A member of Global Hotel Alliance

El Alamein - North Coast, Matruh Road Alexandria / EGYPT T: +20 (46) 419 00 60 F: +20 (46) 419 00 65

In

INFOGR APHIC

CHECK

FIV E TA LLEST MOUN TAINS IN T HE WORLD (m)

8,850 8,800

8,700

8,550 8,500

MAKALU

8,600

"/-

8,650

stands at

METRES HIGH & OVER

8,450

Mount Everest was named in honour of British surveyor George Everest, although the local sherpas call it Chomolungma – meaning “Goddess Mother of the World”.

MOUNT EVEREST

K2

8,750

KANGCHENJUNGA

Nepal is home to some of the most endangered species on the planet, including Bengal tigers, snow leopards and the Asian one-horned rhinoceros.

6 , -/

NEPAL

8,400

“ ”

PEOPLE HAVE

“You don’t need to climb a mountain to know that it’s high.”

REACHED THE SUMMIT SINCE

it was first

1953

Darchula

CONQUERED IN

PAOLO COELHO (Author) Kehami

Bagmati

Patan

i«> ½Ã >Ì > y>} Ã Ì i only non-quadrilaterally à >«i` y>} Ì i Ü À `° / i two triangles represent the Himalayan Mountains.

Nyatapola Temple

/ ÕV } > ÞÌ } Ü Ì Þ ÕÀ feet is considered offensive in Nepal – so keep your shoes on.

World Traveller

/ i wÛi ÃÌ ÀiÞ pagoda in Bhaktapur is one of the tallest in the country. Built in 1702, the temple is dedicated to the goddess Siddhi Lakshmi.

Gurkha warriors from Nepal are among the most legendary of all time. A famous quotation associated with them is: “If a man says he is not afraid of dying, he must be lying or is a Gurkha.”

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In

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SPOTLIGHT ON

Festival season is in full swing this month.

7/ ÂŤÂˆVÂŽĂƒ ĂŒÂ…i w˜iĂƒĂŒ ĂƒÂˆ}Â…ĂŒĂƒ

TOKYO Festivals

Tanabata Also known as the “star festival� because, according to legend, the two stars Altair and Vega, usually separated by the Milky Way, are able to meet. A popular custom is to write your deepest wishes on a piece of paper, then hang it from a bamboo tree in the hope of making the wish come true.

Ueno Summer Festival Ueno’s mid-year blowout has a different event each night, like toro nagashi paper lanterns, ice sculpture displays or an antique market. The Suijo Ongakudo concert hall stages music and folk performances by the lakefront, and the festival parade held on the 20th is the summer’s highlight.

Chiyoda-ku Noryo no Yube This dreamlike event takes place in the moat of the Imperial Palace, against the lush background scenery of Kitanomaru-koen Park. Eighty boats, helmed by residents and workers of Chiyoda-ku ĂœÂˆÂ?Â? yÂœ>ĂŒ ĂŒÂ…i }Â?ÂœĂœÂˆÂ˜} Â?>Â˜ĂŒiĂ€Â˜Ăƒ up into the twilight while the gathered crowd watches on.

Sumida River Fireworks Festival This awe-inspiring display of pyrotechnics has been a wĂ?ĂŒĂ•Ă€i œ˜ ĂŒÂ…i -Ă•Â“Âˆ`> ,ÂˆĂ›iĂ€ since 1733. It seems as if the

The insider...

entire city turns out to watch the display, which is capped by a contest to see who has spent the year coming up with ĂŒÂ…i Â“ÂœĂƒĂŒ VĂ€i>ĂŒÂˆĂ›i wĂ€iĂœÂœĂ€ÂŽÂ° Sights

Tokyo Sky Tree This engineering marvel stands an incredible 634 metres high – around twice as tall as Dubai’s Burj Al Arab.

Affording sensational views of Mount Fuji and the Tokyo skyline, the Sky Tree isn’t to be missed.

1OQVG UCPFļ Known as Tokyo’s version of the Champs-ElysÊes, this sweeping, tree-lined boulevard is the home of upscale shopping houses and boutiques including Louis Vuitton, Prada and Tod’s.

Ghibli Museum One of Japan’s most famous sons, animator Hayao Miyazaki, has a museum dedicated to his life’s work – ˆ˜VÂ?Ă•`ˆ˜} Ăƒi“ˆ˜>Â? wÂ?Â“Ăƒ ĂƒĂ•VÂ… as Spirited Away and Howl’s Moving Castle. The fairy-tale atmosphere will enrapture even newcomers to Miyazaki’s dreamlike universe. +ORGTKCN 2CNCEG Placed perfectly in the centre of Tokyo, the home of Japan’s emperor and imperial family is a grand, gorgeous and imposing structure. Book in advance.

Ms. Shinobu Momoi from ANA InterContinental Tokyo tells us her top three food destinations. Ū 5WUJK +EJK is very hidden in Ginza – talk to us and we will make a booking, as the door is only opened for customers.

The chef also speaks English. Ū The chef’s menu at Ryugin is like artwork. He creates a new way of cooking food, and it will be a taste you will never

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Â…>Ă›i iĂ?ÂŤiĂ€Âˆi˜Vi`° ĹŞ The original Japanese steak restaurant, Yutaka] ÂˆĂƒ Ă€iÂ?>Ă?ˆ˜} and comfortable. You dine at the counter and the chef cooks in front of you.

July // 2014

ABU DHABI SUMMER SEASON RUNNING UNTIL 31 AUGUST

MEGA CONCERTS - KIDS’ SHOWS - INTERNATIONAL HEADLINE ACTS - SOME OF THE BEST SPORTS, LEISURE AND HOTEL DEALS AROUND. Because Any Time’s A Good Time To Have A Great Time In Abu Dhabi!

EVENTS

FREEJ LIVE: ABOOD’S DREAM

FREEJ LIVE: ABOOD’S DREAM

du Forum, Yas Island 12 June-27 July

Emirates Palace Abu Dhabi

Western Region Al Ain

SHADOWLAND

ARAB STARS SHOWCASE

ICC Hall - ADNEC Abu Dhabi

Emirates Palace Abu Dhabi

WORLD FOOTBALL CELEBRATIONS

8-16 August

31 July-2 August

14 August

BOLLYWOOD SPECTACLE WITH SUNIDHI CHAUHAN Emirates Palace, Abu Dhabi 15 August

DAVID BLAINE REAL OR ILLUSION

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For more information please call 800 555 or visit

21-23 August

28-29 August

#ADsummer

7-8 August 11-13 August

OFFICIAL AIRLINE PARTNER

21-31 August

HOSTED BY

Check In

The French capital has no à ÀÌ>}i v wÛi ÃÌ>À Ìi Ã] and it has more gorgeous architecture than many European countries can muster. Ìà ÃÌ ÀÞ Ã Õ À Û> i` > ` Ì i gastronomic reputation of the city goes without saying.

Nowhere are all these traits Ài iÝi « wi` Ì > >Ì the famous Le Bristol Paris.

Located on the prominent rue `Õ >ÕL ÕÀ} -> Ì Àj] > stone’s throw from the Champs ÞÃjiÃ] Ì >Ã ÃÌ ` Ã Vi £ Óx as a symbol of style for the French people.

Named for the Bishop Ài`iÀ V iÀÛiÞ] Ì i {Ì >À v À ÃÌ ] > £nÌ Vi ÌÕÀÞ

Historic Hotel #13

PARISIAN PERFECTION Le Bristol encapsulates everything enchanting about Paris ÌÀ>Ûi iÀ v> i` v À Ã iÝ>VÌ } Þ } ÃÌ> `>À`Ã] i À ÃÌ >Ã Lii Ì i i v Vi iLÀ Ì iÃ] fashion and politics for decades.

It became the home of the Ƃ iÀ V> L>ÃÃÞ £ {ä] > ` Ü i Ì i wÀÃÌ * iÀÀi Cardin boutique «i i` £ x{] Ì i y `}>Ìià to the world

v >ÕÌi V ÕÌÕÀi «i i`] with Christians Lacroix and ÕL ÕÌ wÀÃÌ Ì À Õ} Ì i door.

Famous guests like Rita >ÞÜ ÀÌ > ` >À i >« put Le Bristol on the map for fashion photographers who were eager to use

the luxurious settings in their i` Ì À > ð Ì i ` ÓäääÃ] the hotel annexed the corner building next door and was ÀivÕÀL à i`] } Û } Ì i V >Ãà V £nÌ Vi ÌÕÀÞ `jV À > v>Vi vÌ° No great hotel is complete Ü Ì ÕÌ > }Ài>Ì ÀiÃÌ>ÕÀ> Ì] and Le Bristol’s Epicure is one of the world’s greats. The ÌÀ « i V i ÃÌ>ÀÀi` Ì Ì> à i i` LÞ À V ÀiV ] whose classic French cuisine has been astounding critics and VÕÃÌ iÀà > i Ü i ÃiÀÛi` next to the hotel’s glorious gardens. We think that Bishop Ài`iÀ V iÀÛiÞ] ÜiÀi i Ì Û Ã Ì Ì `>Þ] Ü Õ ` Li iÝÌÀi i Þ « i>Ãi` Ü Ì Ü >Ì i½` w `°

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World Traveller

July // 2014

Relax on Iftar We will prepare it specially for You! Experience the tradional Iftar Buffet with delicious variety of Arabic and International foods & Juices. **Service and taxes not included **Terms and conditions applied

99AED

Special discount for groups

P.O BOX 125962, DUBAI- U.A.E. - Sharaf DG Metro Station Tel. No: +971 4 341 7750 | Fax No: +971 4 341 7751 info@goldentulipalbarsha.com | www.goldentulipalbarsha.com

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Style&Wellness Look good, feel good

1

3

THE SPA EXPERIENCE A massage in the Indian Ocean

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World Traveller

July // 2014

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SPA AT RITZ-CARLTON

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ANANTAR A SPA THE PRODUCTS (1) >}] õÕ>Ài`Ó (2) >vÌ> ] ÃÃ> ` (3) / Üi ] *ÕVV (4) -Õ } >ÃÃiÃ] Õ }>À (5) -> `> Ã] / ÀÞ ÕÀV (6) ] >À> vv > (7) *> > > >Ì] -i à -ÌÕ`

Spa-lert!

Alternative treatments from around the world

/ i Ƃ > Ì>À> -«> LÀ> ` V Ì ÕiÃ Ì Ü Ü `>Þ > iÀà >À Õ ` Ì i Ü À `° Ƃ ` Ìà ÕÌ« ÃÌ Ì i *> Õ i À> à ` vviÀi Ì° ƂÃÃÕ } Þ Õ½Ài ÌÀ>Ûi } Ü Ì Þ ÕÀ à } wV> Ì Ì iÀ] ëi ` à i µÕ> ÌÞ Ì i Ì }iÌ iÀ Ü Ì Ì i £nä ÕÌi V Õ« ià *> ,iÌÀi>Ì q > V iVÌ v Ã Ì } Ì iÀ>« ið `ÕL> «> °> > Ì>À>°>i

ONE&ONLY SPA

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July // 2014

/ i « « Õ« VÀ>âi >à >ÀÀ Ûi` >ÕÀ Ì Õà q > ` Ì Ã Ì i ̽à v À Ì i `ð / À Õ} ÕÌ Ì i ÃÕ iÀ - > Ì >ÕÀ Vi Ü Li } Û } ÌÃ Þ Õ }iÀ }ÕiÃÌà > Ì>ÃÌi v Ì i Àià À̽à >Ü>À` Ü } À> -«> >Ì Ìà « « Õ« V Õ ÌiÀ«>ÀÌ° v Þ Ì i V V >Ìi vÕÃi` >ÃÃ>}i Ü>à >Û> >L i v À Ì i >`Õ Ìð

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Eid Adventures Celebrate the holiday with a glamorous getaway

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July // 2014

Geneva

Best for… shopaholics Compact in size, Geneva features more shop frontage per square metre than many of its upmarket city rivals. The Geneva à ««iÀ à i Ü >««ÀiV >ÌiÃ Ì i w iÀ things in life, and of course the city’s most lustworthy products are its watches. Geneva is a world leader and watchmakers like Patek Philippe and Piaget call it home.

Where to stay The Mayer family has kept the glorious Beau Rivage (beau-rivage.ch) at the peak of stately glamour for over four generations, and has jaw-dropping views over Lake Geneva. For a grand stay, the Swissotel Metropole’s (swissotel.com) stunning frontage can’t be beat.

Stockholm

Best for… architectural masterpieces Stockholm’s Blasieholmen, the waterfront peninsula which holds important buildings such as the National Museum, Grand Hotel and Wallman salon, will shortly be getting a new jewel – the new Nobel Prize Centre, called the Nobelhuset and designed by Sir

>Û ` ««iÀwi `° 7 i Ì ` ià ½Ì «i until 2018, there is still plenty of beautiful brick-and-mortar to please your senses.

Where to stay An imposing sight when viewed from the harbour, the Grand Hotel (grandhotel.se) is a serious statement of intent. The hotel’s Michelin-starred restaurant is not to be missed either. A chic and hip hotel is the Hotel Rival (rival.se) – the epitome of cool in one of the world’s coolest cities.

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July // 2014

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London

Best for… theatre lovers London’s West End has long been a magnet for the world’s biggest stars, and this year’s theatre season continues to draw in the A-list. Carey Mulligan makes her debut in David Hare’s Skylight, and Gillian Anderson q > V wÀ i` Ƃ } « i q Ì> iÃ Ì i V Vi role of Blanche DuBois in A Streetcar Named Desire at Southwark’s Young Vic. Where to stay London’s newest and most glamorous hotel is Shangri-La at The Shard (theshard.com/ shangri-la), the tallest hotel in Western Europe. Each room has its own highpowered binoculars to take in the stunning city views. The Churchill Hotel (london. churchill.hyatt.com) in the West End is an art lover’s paradise thanks to its partnership with the Saatchi Gallery.

Singapore

Best for… gourmands With two restaurants recently placed in the top 50 in the world (Restaurant André and Waku Ghin), it’s no surprise that Singapore is a signature destination for those that like Ì i>Ì Üi ° i Ìà w i ` }] Ì i V Ì޽à street food is equally stand out. Don’t leave without experiencing the city’s hawker centres (an open-air complex serving simple, yet tasty food).

Where to stay When a hotel becomes a city landmark, it’s worth checking out. The Marina Bay Sands (marinabaysands.com) is one such hotel for Singapore. The Indonesian-style Banyan Tree Bintan (banyantree.com/bintan) is a postcard-perfect slice of heaven.

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July // 2014

Vienna

Best for… sophisticates The capital of Austria has a small population, but what they lack in numbers they make up for in style. Its musical legacy is unparalleled, which is expected when sons of the city include Mozart, Beethoven and Brahms, and the Wiener Musikverein is home to the peerless Vienna Philharmonic Orchestra. By day, soak up the atmosphere of the Baroque architecture found on every street and browse the upscale shops.

Where to stay Established in 1876, the Hotel Sacher ­Ã>V iÀ°V ® Ã > «À Û>Ìi Þ Ü i` wÛi ÃÌ>À gem in Vienna’s cultural heart. Meanwhile, very few hotels are able to offer service like that found at the Hotel Bristol Vienna (bristolvienna.com) – the 24hr concierge will make your stay as easy as can be.

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July // 2014

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July // 2014

Sharm el-Sheikh

Best for… an underwater adventure Almost every hotel in this stunning Egyptian city offers diving tours ranging from beginner to advanced level. The warm water of the Red Sea and the stunning underwater scenery make Sharm el-Sheikh a diving destination par excellence. For those that prefer their adventure above water, paraÃ> } > ` Ìi ÃÕÀw } >Ài ÃÕÀi Ì }iÌ Ì i adrenaline up.

Where to stay With the Gulf of Aqaba and Tiran island right in view, the sights from Rixos Sharm i - i ­À Ý Ã°V ® >Ài ÌÀÕ Þ >} wVi Ì° À wÛi ÃÌ>À `iV>`i Vi] Ãii ÕÌ Ì i , Þ> Savoy (savoy-sharm.com) – its turquoise swimming pools rival the beautiful blues of the ocean.

Queensland

Best for… the trip of a lifetime Australia’s northeast territory is a slice of paradise, bathed in sunshine. The middle third of the year is the prime time to visit the Great Barrier Reef, when the weather is mild and visibility is at its best. Coastal cities like Cairns offer stunning views over the Coral Sea, while cosmopolitan Brisbane has a thriving café culture and good galleries.

Where to stay Spicers Peak Lodge (spicersretreats.com) nestles high in the hills of the Main Range National Park, giving access to Australia’s bountiful landscapes. Closer to the beach is Tangalooma Island Resort (tangalooma.com) on the golden sands of Moreton Island.

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July // 2014

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July // 2014

India

Best for… an unforgettable experience A luxury train journey is an occasion every traveller should try. The Maharajas’ Express (maharajas-express-india.com) harks back to an era of elegance and romance that has almost disappeared. With different themed journeys like Heritage of India or Indian Splendor to discover, with Maharajas’ Express you’re on the right track.

Where to stay If sleeping on a moving train doesn’t excite you, life at the Oberoi Udaivilas (oberoihotels.com) moves a little more sedately. Mumbai’s Four Seasons (fourseasons.com/mumbai) is located in the V Ì޽à w > V > Vi ÌÀi] > ` à i v ` >½Ã newest luxury stays – great for city sights.

World Traveller

Cyprus

Best for… history buffs Human activity on the third largest island in the Mediterranean dates back as far as the 10th millennium BC – and it has at various points been under the rule of Greek, Roman and Ottoman empires, each leaving behind countless historical legacies. Now, the beautiful island is a tourist hotspot due to the stunning beaches and fascinating historical monuments.

Where to stay Five-star splendour is found at the Constantinou Bros Asimina Suites Hotel (asimina-cbh.com). The Four Seasons in Limassol (fourseasons.com.cy) has landscaped pool areas that are ideal for a relaxed holiday.

Barcelona

Best for… a city beach break Thanks to its abundance of stunning architecture including the Gaudi-designed Park Güell and stunning Gothic La Sagrada Familia cathedral, it’s often overlooked that Barcelona has some of the most laid-back and temperate beaches in Europe. The Balearic Sea gently laps at the golden sandy shore, where deeply relaxed Catalans catch a midday siesta. This city truly has it all.

Where to stay The Hotel Arts (hotelartsbarcelona.com) takes full advantage of its location near the sea – even the spa’s sauna has windows overlooking it. Luxury apartments are perfect for long stays. In the city centre, The Majestic (hotelmajestic.es) is just as luxurious as its name suggests.

July // 2014

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United Kingdom ME London 7 nights from USD1,420 per person.

Special offer: Stay 6 nights and receive an additional night free.

Includes: Stay in an Aura Room with breakfast daily and complimentary Wi-Fi Validity: Now ‘til August 31, 2014.

World Traveller Holiday Offers

This cutting edge luxury hotel, designed by Sir Norman Foster, offers 157 rooms and suites, many with fantastic views of key London landmarks, rivalled only by the stunning panoramic views across the city from the hotel’s rooftop bar.

Italy Bernini Bristol Rome 3 nights from USD495 per person.

Special offer: Stay 2 nights and receive an additional night free plus complimentary Wi-Fi.* Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Twin Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers.

Validity: Now ‘til September 7, 2014. * Deluxe Rooms only, rate excludes city tax of EUR3 per person per day.

This classic yet fully renovated palace in Rome is a true icon. Enchanting and enticing are two words to describe this wonder, which stands just steps from all that Rome is famous for.

Seychelles How to Book 34

You can book these offers by calling dnata on +971 4 316 6666 or by visiting dnatatravel.com.

Terms and conditions apply. On the same site you can also sign up to dnata’s newsletter and receive more offers direct to your inbox.

July // 2014

Banyan Tree Seychelles 4 nights from USD1,855 per person.

Special offer: Stay 3 nights and receive an additional night free plus complimentary upgrade to half board.

Includes: Stay in a Hillside Pool Villa with breakfast daily and return airport transfers.

Validity: Now ‘til July 31, 2014.

At Banyan Tree Seychelles, located on the picturesque south-western coastline of Mahé island, you’ll be welcomed by 60 exquisite Creole-style villas and unspoiled beaches.

Sri Lanka Cinnamon Lakeside 3 nights from USD360 per person.

Special offer: 20% discount.

Includes: Stay in a Standard Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers.

Validity: Now ‘til October 3, 2014.

The Cinnamon Lakeside is a perfect getaway for the discerning adventurer. If you think you’ve seen all the Indian Ocean has to offer, this is the place to come, before too many people discover it.

Hong Kong Grand Hyatt Hong Kong 4 nights from USD780 per person.

Special offer: Stay 3 nights and receive an additional night free.

Includes: Stay in a Grand Deluxe Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers.

Validity: Now ‘til August 31, 2014.

This hotel is famed for its amazing views across Victoria Harbour and it stands in the middle of the most vibrant part of the city. It’s a true melting pot of a hotel in terms of style, and boasts a world-renowned spa to boot.

Australia Shangri-La Sydney 4 nights from USD625 per person.

Special offer: Stay 3 nights and receive an additional night free.

Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Darling Harbour View Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers

World Traveller

Validity: Now ‘til August 31, 2014.

This has to be one of the best hotels in Sydney.

Stunning views and fantastic staff combine to make it the perfect base from which to explore this cool, sophisticated city.

July // 2014

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Check In ROB ARROW Why Amsterdam should be at the top of your travel list

Malaysia

Four Seasons Langkawi 3 nights from USD545 per person.

Special offer: 56% rate reduction.

Includes: Stay in a Lower Melaleuca Pavilion Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers.

Validity: Now ‘til October 31, 2014.

With the summer season in full swing, it’s time to beat the heat and head to Europe. With so many cities to choose from, I recommend Amsterdam – an ancient city built on trade, just like so many cities in the GCC region. Over the last few years, Amsterdam has been busy investing in its culture, clearways and most importantly its canals (the city is home to 100 kilometres of canals).

And while the city centre is compact, there’s much to do here.

7 Ì Ƃ ÃÌiÀ`> Li } > y>Ì V ÌÞ] everything is accessible on foot or LÞ L VÞV i° À Ì i wÀÃÌ Ì i Û Ã Ì À] however, a canal tour is a must. This will enable you to get to grips with the city’s layout while at the time admire the splendid canal houses dotted about this waterborne city.

Aside from the canals, the city is famous for housing two of Europe’s top museums, the Hermitage Amsterdam and the Rijksmuseum, which has recently reopened following a 10-year refurbishment project.

Once you have soaked up the city’s arts scene, it’s time to take in the shops located around PC Hoofstraat and NineStreets. One of my favourite hotels in Europe can be found here – the recently renovated Hotel De L’Europe, a true Grand Dame of a bygone era.

Aside from this splendid hotel, I have picked a handful of alternative over water hotels perfect for your next holiday. To book, simply contact dnata.

This peaceful haven is the perfect place to head this summer. With all the hallmarks of the luxury Four Seasons hotel brand, everything here is supersized; from the large-scale rooms to the extensive grounds.

The uninterrupted views and undivided attention from the Four Seasons’ team add to the hotel’s allure.

Italy

Palazzo Sant Angelo Hotel (sul Canal Grande) 3 nights from USD490 per person.* Special offer: Stay 2 nights and receive an additional night free.

Includes: Stay in a Classic Double Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers by private water taxi.

Validity: Now ‘til August 28, 2014.* Blackout dates apply; offer only valid for Classic and Deluxe rooms; rate excludes city tax EUR4 person/day.

Located on the Canal Grande, this four-star hotel in Venice is immersed in the beauty of this wondrous waterway. With private boat access and an exclusive entrance directly onto the Canal, this luxury hotel

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Palazzo Sant Angelo Hotel

July // 2014

Lily Beach Resort & Spa

Madinat Jumeirah

HEAD TO CLUB MED

boasts enchanting interiors throughout and stunning rooms.

UAE

Renowned for its all-inclusive concept - gourmet food, unlimited drinks and snacks, fantastic children’s clubs, and a multitude of sports and leisure activities - Club Med offers premium holidays in stunning locations worldwide. What’s more, our special offer price includes 30% off our Mauritius resorts and 20% off Club Med Phuket.

Madinat Jumeirah 1 night from USD185 per person.

Special offer: 25% rate reduction plus a complimentary upgrade to one of the following: lunch or dinner, Iftar or Suhour.

Includes: Stay in an Ocean Deluxe Room at Mina A’Salam or an Arabian Deluxe Room at Al Qasr.

Validity: Now ‘til July 27, 2014.

Head to this Arabian-inspired resort for a wonderful holiday experience. With stunning ocean views from both hotels, and direct access to the brilliant Souk Madinat, a night here is a must for visitors and residents alike.

Club Med Phuket

Maldives

Lily Beach Resort & Spa 3 nights from USD1,685 per person.

Special offer: Choice of 2 complimentary excursions per person.

Includes: Stay in a Beach Villa on a fully inclusive basis and return seaplane transfers.

Validity: July 21 to September 30, 2014.

Located in the Southern Ari Atoll, on the beautiful island of Huvahendhoo, Lily Beach is the wÀÃÌ wÛi ÃÌ>À > V Õà Ûi Àià ÀÌ in the Maldives. Take some time to explore the pristine beaches and exotic house-reef.

La Plantation d’Albion Club Med, Mauritius Special Offer: Starting from USD1,490 per person.

Beautifully located in one of the last remote creeks on the island, the resort welcomes families and couples into a world of supreme Àiw i i Ì° / i Àià ÀÌ >à ÓÈÈ À à > ` ÃÕ ÌiÃ Ü Ì > ÌiÀÀ>Vi À balcony looking out over the ocean or lush gardens, and a host of leisure activities are included in your stay. The perfect resort for that long awaited family getaway.

La Pointe aux Canonniers, Mauritius Special Offer: Starting from USD1,325 per person.

Flanked by a long white beach, La Pointe aux Canonniers provides an idyllic setting for families to share special moments and live out their dreams. The colonial-style bungalows of the resort are nestled in the lush tropical gardens of a 190-acre park, > } Ü Ì > Ü Ìi Ã> `Þ Li>V v>V } Ì i *>V wV "Vi> ° Club Med Phuket Special Offer: Starting from USD1,260 per person.

In Kata Bay, south of Bangkok, the Club Med Resort on the island of Phuket stretches out under palm trees caressed by the breeze.

Bungalows, built in the style of the local ‘long-houses’, exude a Zen spirit in this idyllic garden where you can practise yoga beneath the frangipani trees.

Packages Include: 7-nights accommodation in introductory room category on twin-sharing basis: breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, snacks and dinner; childcare facilities; a wide range of sporting and leisure activities; open snacks and drinks service during the day on select beverages.

Booking Dates: Now ’til August 30, 2014.

Travel Dates: Now ’til October 4, 2014 Blackout dates for Phuket: July 27–August 29, 2014 and September 21–October 3, 2014.

Four Seasons Langkawi

World Traveller

July // 2014

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Morning /ii vv >Ì 9>à à ƂLÕ >L ] Ì i wÀÃÌ Ã } v V ÕÀÃi Ì i `` i >ÃÌ° / i Ç]{xä Þ>À`] «>À ÇÓ £n i V ÕÀÃi Ü>à `ià } i` LÞ Þ i * «Ã > ` Ì> ià >À Õ ` v ÕÀ > ` > > v ÕÀÃ Ì V « iÌi] Ü i Ì i i i Li} iÀ½Ã V ÕÀÃi Ì> ià ä ÕÌið } viÀ¶ `Õ }i > ÌÌ i i Ì i >Ì -*Ƃ >Ì 9>à 6 ViÀ Þ ƂLÕ

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>L > ` `> Vi Ì i } Ì >Ü>Þ Õ Ì Ì i i>À Þ ÕÀð

dnata Eid Offers

1. Yas Viceroy Abu Dhabi 1 night vÀ USD105 «iÀ «iÀà Offer: « i Ì>ÀÞ Õ«}À>`i Ì > v >À` Includes: -Ì>Þ i ÕÝi À Ü Ì LÀi> v>ÃÌ > ` ` iÀ `> Þ Validity: Ü ¼Ì -i«Ìi LiÀ Îä] Óä£{

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2. Crowne Plaza Yas Island 1 night vÀ USD150 «iÀ «iÀà Includes: -Ì>Þ ÃÕ«iÀ À À > V Õà Ûi L>à à Validity: Ü ¼Ì ƂÕ}ÕÃÌ Î£] Óä£{ 3. Radisson Blu Yas Island 4 nights vÀ USD145 «iÀ «iÀà Includes: -Ì>Þ ÃÌ> `>À` À Ü Ì LÀi> v>ÃÌ `> Þ Validity: Ü ¼Ì ƂÕ}ÕÃÌ Î£] Óä£{ You can book these offers by calling dnata on +971 4 316 6666 or by visiting dnatatravel.com

July // 2014

DAY TWO

Morning - > i vv > Þ V LÜiLà >Ì iÀÀ>À 7 À ` ƂLÕ >L ] Ì i Ü À `½Ã >À}iÃÌ ` À Ì i i «>À ] Ü V >à > }Ài>Ì Ý v >`Ài > i «Õ « } À `ià > ` v> Þ vÀ i ` Þ i ÌiÀÌ> i Ì° -V>Ài Þ ÕÀÃi v Ã Þ Ì i À Õ > , ÃÃ>] Ì i v>ÃÌiÃÌ À iÀV >ÃÌiÀ Ì i « > iÌ] Ü V Ìà Ó{ä É Õ `iÀ wÛi ÃiV `Ã] À Ì> i > i ÃÕÀi Þ `À Ûi Ì À Õ} Ì> ޽à v> Õà > `ÃV>«ià > >ÌÕÀi £ xn iÀÀ>À Óxä > v À >° "À v Þ Õ½` À>Ì iÀ }iÌ ÜiÌ] i>` Ì 9>à 7>ÌiÀÜ À ` ƂLÕ >L ] Ü V ë> à > >Ài> Ì i à âi v £x v ÌL> « ÌV ià > ` L >ÃÌà {Î À `ià > ` à `ià V Õ` } Ì i Ü À `½Ã }iÃÌ Ü>ÌiÀà `i] Ì i ÓÎn iÌÀi } >ÜÜ> >° Afternoon À Ài } ëii` Ì À Ã] > i 9>à >À > ÀVÕ Ì Þ ÕÀ iÝÌ ÃÌ «° / i ÌÀ>V L >ÃÌÃ Ì i }iÃÌ ÃÌÀ> } Ì v > Þ VÕÀÀi Ì À Õ > £ V ÀVÕ Ì] « Õà ӣ ÌÜ ÃÌà > ` ÌÕÀ à «>Ãà } >À Õ ` Ì i >À > > ` Õ `iÀ 9>à 6 ViÀ Þ Ìi ° - } Õ« v À > `À vÌ `À Û } iÃà À À>Vi Þ ÕÀ >ÌiÃ Ì i nää iÌÀi } >ÀÌ } ÌÀ>V q Ì i â ««Þ >ÀÌà Ài>V ëii`à v Õ« Ì Èä É ° / i Ì 9>à i>V v À > >Ìi >vÌiÀ ÃÜ À > ÃÌ> ` Õ« «>`` iL >À` ÃiÃà ° / i «À Û>Ìi Li>V à «i Õ Ì £ä« ] à Ü>ÌV Ì i ÃÕ } ` Ü ] Liv Ài i>` } L>V Ì Þ ÕÀ Ìi Ì }iÌ Ài>`Þ v À ` iÀ° Evening -«i ` Þ ÕÀ w > iÛi } `iÛ ÕÀ } >ÕÌ i Ì V ­> ` >Ü>À` Ü }® iL> iÃi > ` ƂÀ>L V VÕ Ã i] vÀ iââi Ì Ýi` }À Ã] >Ì >À Õ >Ì À Ü i * >â> 9>à à > `° ,iÌ Ài Ì Ì i Ìi ½Ã à à > }>À`i ÛiÀ } Ì i ƂÀ>L > Õ v À i Þ > } ÌV>« >Ì 9 >À >Ì 9>à à > ` , Ì> >] > « «Õ >À ÞiÌ Õ «ÀiÌi Ì Õà iÜ 9 À ÃÌÞ i Õ }i L>À°

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World Traveller

July // 2014

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WORLD TRAVELLER

USA SPECIAL 26 pages of in-depth features about travel adventures in America 42 Downtown LA is thriving. Are you keeping up? 46 An Everglades adventure in The Sunshine State 52 America’s Iconic National Parks 56 A gastronomic journey around New York 62 Travelling the road of America’s history in Virginia

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COME FLY WITH US Qatar Airways offers the most convenient gateways to USA from the GCC, with scheduled y } Ìà vÀ > Ì > ÃÌ v V Vi `iÃÌ >Ì Ã ÃÌ>Ìià `i° iÌ L >À` Ì V>} ] New York, Philadelphia, Washington, Houston, Miami and from July 1, Dallas/Fort Worth which also serve as gateways to many other destinations across USA through the oneworld > > Vi° 6 Ã Ì µ>Ì>À> ÀÜ>ÞðV v À y } Ì Ì ià > ` vÕÀÌ iÀ v À >Ì ° July // 2014

Los Angeles

DOWNTOWN

ON THE UP After the golden Twenties came decline, but today the oldest neighbourhood in LA is thriving, says Edmund Vallance

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Left: Downtown LA at sunset

n the rooftop bar of the newly opened Ace Hotel in Downtown Los Angeles, I’m deep in conversation with Kevin.

“Cocktail?” he asks. Without waiting for an answer, he reaches to retrieve a black leather wallet.

Kevin Lee Light was born here in the heart of Downtown – the oldest neighbourhood in LA – and is well versed in its noirish history. We talk about its Hollywood heyday in the Twenties and Thirties, when Buster Keaton and Charlie Chaplin filmed here; about the grimy, crime-ridden side of Downtown, which captured the imaginations of Raymond Chandler and James M Cain; and about its decline and virtual abandonment in the Sixties and Seventies.

“I had a loft space around the corner in the Eighties,” he says. “I would climb down the fire escape onto the sidewalk at night, and I would be the only person on the street.”

Looking at Downtown in 2014, it’s hard to imagine that it was once a ghost town.

The local newspaper lists no less than 97 building projects, including The Broad, a vast new contemporary art museum due to open early next year. There are also plans for a subway station in the Arts District, a streetcar on South Broadway’s burgeoning shopping strip and a light rail linking the city to the beach.

And it’s not just new developments: Grand Central Market, built in 1919, was lovingly refurbished last year, and many

Looking at Downtown in 2014, it’s hard to imagine that it was once a ghost town of the area’s Beaux Arts and Art Deco buildings have been repurposed as loft apartments, restaurants and hotels. The Ace Hotel, where Kevin and I are busy swapping stories, is converted from the 13-storey former United Artists building, erected in 1927 by Charlie Chaplin, Douglas Fairbanks and Mary Pickford.

Inspired by silent movie star Mary Pickford’s impression of Segovia Cathedral in Spain, the Ace Hotel is a stunning piece of architecture in its own World Traveller

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Los Angeles

Clockwise from top left: Entrance to Chinatown; Rooftop pool at Standard Downtown LA; Rialto Theatre; Grand Central Market’s café

right, but it’s the adjoining theatre that’s the jewel in the crown. “We’d never seen another building like it,” says Kelly Sawdon, the executive vice-president. “We were lucky that it was loved and taken care of for such a long time.” Besides a busy music schedule the Beaux Arts theatre will screen films later this year.

“Bunker Hill is old town, lost town, shabby town, crook town,” wrote Raymond Chandler in 1942’s The High Window. Bunker Hill is just one of the noir-related neighbourhoods that can be explored on Esotouric’s (esotouric. com) literary tours of Downtown and its environs. Nowadays, skyscrapers are more in evidence, but low-lit Art Deco lobbies and narrow alleys still hark back to the dark world of Chandler’s antihero Philip Marlowe. Choose between two half-day tours: ‘Raymond Chandler’s Los Angeles’

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WHERE TO STAY For a see-and-be-seen hotel experience check in to the 123-room Ritz-Carlton, Los Angeles. Sited near the Nokia Theatre LA, there’s enough glamour and luxury here to see you through your vacation. Buzzing with a different sort of energy and excitement is The Standard, Downtown LA. Aside from the super-cool décor, this hip hotel offers a rooftop pool and dazzling views of the city. For information visit dnatatravel.com or call +971 4 316 6666.

and ‘The Birth of Noir: James M Cain’s Southern Californian Nightmare’.

“That’s where Johnny Depp lives,” says Kevin, pointing at a blue Art Deco monolith opposite the rooftop bar where we’re standing. “Well, it’s one of the places he lives.” The edifice in question is the 1930 Eastern Columbia building. While the penthouse may be out of most people’s price range, you can enjoy the recently opened Swedish clothing store Acne that occupies part of the street level space. And there’s more to come: Brooklyn-based Kinfolk Studios recently announced the opening of a bar, gallery and event space in the basement.

“LA is in a sweet spot of cultural growth right now,” enthuses Joanne Heyler, founding director of Downtown’s latest work-in-progress, The Broad.

Showcasing the contemporary art World Traveller

collection of billionaire philanthropists, Eli and Edythe Broad, the museum is slated to open in early 2015. Opposite is The Museum of Contemporary Art, now showing a retrospective of seminal American artist, Mike Kelly, until July 28.

Amid the glamour and gleam of Downtown’s high-end development, it’s easy to forget that the area is also home to some of the best dive bars on the planet.

Take King Eddy Saloon. Refurbished earlier this year and decorated with murals of some of its most famous bar-proppers (John Fante and Charles Bukowski were regulars), this place has a lively clientele and a legendary jukebox. Talking over the pleasant din of Morrissey’s “Suedehead”, I ask Frank, a local patron, if he ever met Bukowski. “I used to drink with him right here, back in 1978. He was a phenomenal writer,” says Frank. “And a total bozo.”

Food wise, serving farm-to-table southern Californian cuisine, 28-yearold chef-proprietor Ari Taymor’s Alma is at the heart of Downtown’s gourmet vanguard. What started as a pop-up in 2012 has swiftly become one of LA’s most compelling success stories (try the ninecourse tasting menu). “When we opened, there was nothing on this street. On some nights, nobody came,” says Ari. But after a string of press accolades, including Bon Appetit magazine’s ‘Best New Restaurant in America’, that all changed. “When we came back last summer, we were immediately booked out for three months.

It’s pretty wild how this neighbourhood’s changed – even in the last year,” he says.

And he’s right - now’s the time to see it in boom.

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Florida

really

THE WILD SHOW

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Just a few miles from Mickey Mouse and manic Miami is another world of still waters, steamy swamps and stony-eyed alligators. Joanna Walters wades into the Everglades

Believe me,” said Graham, my strapping swamp guide, “it’s scared of you.” He looked down at my white-knuckle grip on his upper arm, a limb that Popeye would envy. At 5ft 2in (or perhaps 5ft 4in with my hair standing on end from the shock), and carrying no weapon more ferocious than a pencil, I had managed to frighten a fivemetre alligator.

The nervous reptile shot into the crystal-clear creek that sliced through swathes of bright green sawgrass, and disappeared. “You got one step too close,” World Traveller

said Graham. The idea that I could spook an alligator was novel and, when I had released my clutch on Graham’s bicep and started breathing again, revealed a new perspective on the mysterious Everglades.

I’d always imagined the Everglades would offer adventure at a safe remove; that it would be thrilling – but just out of human reach. I pictured neat viewing platforms, from where patient tourists snatched just a glimpse of a manatee tail, or the faux-authentic fan-boat experience, now actually deemed so disruptive it is prohibited within the National Park.

Yet before we even got out of Graham’s

battered minivan, we spotted our alligator basking by the side of the only road that runs through the park. It just lay there, oblivious to the tourist car rentals rattling past, hanging out in the sunshine as if it were waiting for a lift. It was the first, but not the last time that day that I’d stand with nothing except trepidation between me and a huge toothy reptile.

My next wild encounter was even more disquieting. Graham and I were going wading. Not with waders, mind. Not even wellies, but in shorts, with my bare feet laced into a pair of old plimsolls.

And never mind alligators – there July // 2014

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Florida Opening page: Alligator in the water at sunset. This page, clockwise from top left: Couple riding on an airboat; Anhinga eating sunfish; Pine trees silhouetted at sunrise. Opposite page: Mangroves in the Everglades. Next page: Alligators in Everglades National Park.

might be snakes, he mentioned casually.

Cottonmouths, in fact, whose bite can result in agonising death.

“Follow me,” said Graham (and probably nobody in history has ever followed anyone more closely). We were to enter one of many dense copses of cypress trees. They grow up from slivers of water

through which sunlight made shadows on tree trunks and vines.

I suddenly felt completely sealed off from the noise and chaos of the modern, mechanised world - transported to a tiny, primordial eco-bubble of steamy stillness.

The beaches and bars of Miami were but a cocktail-shake away, the wonderful world

The water is actually fresh, flowing very slowly from the north out to the Gulf of Mexico

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between the giant plains of sawgrass that stretch away under blue skies for miles.

He took a sturdy walking pole and strode, instantly knee-deep, into the watery woods. I took a deep breath and stepped into the cool, glassy water behind him – both of us under a thin canopy of greenery July // 2014

of Disney just a few hours’ drive further on. But this felt far, far removed from all that, and the epitome of the untamed, naturally enchanting ‘other’ Florida.

I looked down and got my second shock of the day. The water I was standing in was clear. “People call it a swamp but the

Everglades is also known as the River of Grass and the water is actually fresh, flowing very slowly from the north out to the Gulf of Mexico,” Graham explained.

Instead of the murky, putrid water I had been expecting, boggy underfoot with killer mud waiting to suck me in, it looked pure and felt delicious on my bare skin and firm underfoot.

We waded deeper, up to our thighs.

Not three metres away, a smaller alligator was sunning itself on a log. I tried not to frighten it off this time, crouching down quietly to observe the armoured flanks and impressive gnashers of this ancient hunter.

Then, curled around a tree branch, was a snake Graham hadn’t noticed. Would its fangs be the last things I would ever see? No – phew – it wasn’t a serpent but a mottled, thick vine, wrapped like linguine around a fork. ‘Trust your guide,’ I reminded myself. In the event, I was disappointed not to see a snake – although disappointment is relative when you’re watching shafts of sunlight tap-dancing on water, bromeliads and moss trailing gorgeously from the trees, and a neon-pink roseate spoonbill bird clattering down into the branches of a nearby treetop. It was the only sound to shatter the silence.

The tranquillity of the interior is so complete it’s tangible, enveloping you like a soundproof room.

That evening, it was goodbye to Graham, and onwards to my next encounter on a unique boating trip. My ‘gladesman’ was Jack Shealy, whose Irish and Scottish forebears found their way to America in the 1800s, settling first as cattle farmers in the Carolinas, then gradually migrating south to become fishermen and hunters in the backwaters of the Everglades.

Jack was also to be my landlord for the night before we set off on the water in the early morning. My digs? A ‘chickee’: usually wooden huts but sometimes simply roofed platforms built on stilts over the swamps and waterways of the Everglades.

Dozens of them line the kayaking routes through the western part of the National Park. They also dot the reservation of the Seminole Native Americans, who designed them. And you’ll find them in other nature reserves within the Big Cypress National

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Florida

WHERE TO STAY It’s camping only in Everglades National Park so before heading out into the great unknown, rest your head in Miami. Sleep in style at Hotel Beaux Arts in downtown Miami. This boutique hotel is handy for the city’s many cultural attractions. If you’ d rather stay by the beach, Gianni Versace’s former mansion, The Villa by Barton G, is an oasis on Ocean Drive.

Visit dnatatravel.com for more details about the Everglades.

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Preserve, which borders the northern part of the Everglades National Park.

Jack has built chickees on his land, with the help of local Seminoles, for visitors who want proximity to the elements without having to camp. He also builds long, narrow wooden pole-boats like his ancestors did, to take more intrepid visitors into the narrow waterways of the back-country.

I woke early and glimpsed bright white egrets flying in an elegant line across the rising sun. Pinkish-golden clouds were reflected in the mirrored surface of the placid waterway as it flowed through grasses that were human height. A large wood stork, one of many endangered species in the Everglades, stood motionless in the reeds waiting for an unsuspecting fish. Such serenity was contagious.

Jack showed me what looked like a slim version of something Cambridge students go punting in. “It’s very stable, quiet and slow, so it’s perfect for stealthily photographing birds,” he murmured. “Or just for drifting off into a reverie.” As deep waters flowed gently through hardwood forests into the back-country, he pushed the pole-boat out over the silvery surface.

Jack let me try punting the boat (I drove us straight into the reeds) but mainly I sat up front, mesmerised as alligators dunked lazily beneath, leaving a faint trail of bubbles as we glided close by. My fear had dissipated, replaced by a sense of wonder, by the thrill of getting so up close and personal to the Everglades. The alligators’ fear, it seemed, had yielded to blissful indifference. Finally I had the measure of these giant beasts – and they me.

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Three more Everglades adventures F ISH Y BUSI NESS Tarpon and pompano may sound like antipasti dishes, but v>VÌ Þ Õ½ w ` Ì i Ì i end of your hook. Fishing in the Everglades can mean heading out from the Gulf Coast among the tropical islands, departing from the Keys in shallow Florida Bay, or angling in the brackish backwaters of the ‘River of Grass’. Cast your line from a canoe, kayak or motorboat. / iÀi >Ài wà Üi½Ûi i>À` v] Ì ­ÌÀ ÕÌ] L>ÃÃ] à >««iÀ®] à wÀi up the grill.

FLOW ER & GLORY The western side of the Everglades is a fantasy world v iÝ Ì V y ÜiÀð º Ì½Ã Ì i orchid capital of the US,” says Jack Shealy. He’s a local guide who knows the Big Cypress backwaters and dense green tangles of the Fakahatchee Strand State Preserve well enough to take hiking, poleboating, kayak and canoe trips into the wilderness of both areas. Also known as the ‘Amazon of the Everglades’, it’s worth the extra few kilometres out from Miami or Fort Lauderdale to go exploring here.

PA DDLE POW ER

Text by: Joanna Walters

v > >Þ> } `>Þ ÌÀ « Ì i Everglades sounds too easy, consider navigating part – or all – of the 159km Wilderness Waterway from Flamingo to Everglades City, and the Ten / ÕÃ> ` Ã > `Ã Ài} the western side of the park.

Kayaking the whole route involves a lot of planning and some risk (getting lost and running out of water). But the less experienced can head out for a few nights (with or without a guide), taking a tent to camp on tiny beaches or in the overwater ‘chickee’ platforms, and revel in subtropical isolation.

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Iconic : National Parks

Iconic

USA NATIONAL PARKS 52

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Arguably the most famous of all America’s landmarks, the Grand Canyon and its surrounding parkland has the capacity to take the breath away of any firsttime visitor. Some numbers: the canyon is 277 miles long, 18 miles wide and reaches a depth of over a mile at its deepest point.

The canyon was cut by the Colorado River over the course of two billion years, and is easily visible from space. When the sun sets over the gorge, the reds and oranges take on an otherworldly glow.

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World Traveller

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Iconic : National Parks

If you’re in Wyoming’s Yellowstone, you’re in geyser country. The majority of the world’s geysers have been preserved here since 1872, in America’s first official National Park. The most famous of all the geysers is Old Faithful, which erupts every 91 minutes.

There are almost more natural phenomena inside Yosemite than you can imagine. First protected in 1864, the park’s waterfalls, valleys, meadows, lakes, giant sequoia trees and mountainous peaks cover over 1,200 square miles, where black bears roam.

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The Great Smoky Mountains is America’s most visited national park, and its most biologically diverse. Over 17,000 species have been documented in the park, and scientists believe that there may be as many as three times that number as yet undiscovered.

The park’s mountains, glaciers and weather cycles are the reason for the wondrous diversity – the park’s elevations vary wildly throughout.

Don’t be fooled by the name – Death Valley contains a great deal of life.

The below-sea-level basin maintains a steady level of drought and the summer heat can kill – but rare rainstorms bring with them vast fields of wildflowers, and oases are home to fish and much larger animals.

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July // 2014

New York

Taking a bite out of the

BIG APPLE No one knows New York’s dining scene better than its chefs. Here, a handful of the city’s culinary masters take WT on a whistle-stop tour around its must-see gastronomic gems…

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New York

Daniel Humm executive chef and co-owner of Eleven Madison Park From his three-Michelin starred kitchen at Eleven Madison Park, executive chef Daniel Humm continues to please the palates of the city’s discerning gourmands with his contemporary American cuisine.

Ranked number four on this year’s World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ list, and a regular on The James Beard Foundation Awards’ scoreboard (the Oscars of the food world), Humm has bundled together fine dining with bags of fun at his sleek restaurant in New York’s Credit Suisse building.

Applauded for serving ‘modern French cuisine with a New York swagger’, the Swiss chef certainly knows his foodstuff when it comes to dining in the city. Here’s his top food haunts:

HAUTE CUISINE When it comes to fine dining, New York does it rather well; from Per Se to Le Bernardin, Rao’s to The Lamb’s Club.

But it is Daniel Boulud’s namesake flagship restaurant, Daniel, that Humm recommends for a “fancy” dinner in the city (aside from Eleven Madison Park, of course). A little over 20 years since it opened in Manhattan’s Upper East Side, the restaurant offers modern French fare with a subtle nod to America. Stand-out dishes on the seasonally adjusted menu include the duo of beef and the ovenbaked black sea bass with Syrah sauce, dishes which continue to cement Daniel as the place of choice for fine-dining aficionados in the Big Apple. And like the food, the setting is equally high-end: marble columns, lofty ceilings and stylish chandeliers. Knives, forks and fancy threads at the ready. danielnyc.com

TASTE OF NEW YORK

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Eat like a local and head straight to the appetizing counter at Russ & Daughters on Manhattan’s Lower East Side. Since swinging open its doors 100 years ago (albeit at a different location back then), this landmark shop has been run by four generations of the Russ family; and still to this very day, the store’s stock is legendary.

Humm says pick up some succulent smoked salmon (from the North Atlantic) and classic cream cheese and you’ll see why. A stone’s throw from here is the new Russ & Daughters Café, the restaurant counterpart to the famed store. The pickled herring and caviar harks back to the store’s beginnings. So order it. russanddaughters.com July // 2014

Opening page: Franny’s pizza.

This page, clockwise from top left: Daniel Humm; Food at Daniel; Eleven Madison Park; Food at Daniel; Daniel; Eleven Madison Park

TO GO New York is teeming with culinary hotspots offering food-on-the-go. But, says Humm: “I love Franny’s in Brooklyn for pizza and Murray’s for cheese.”

The former, while absolutely deserving of a sit down meal, offers Neapolitaninspired wood oven pizzas to go from US$9. Should you choose to dine in at this farm-to-table pizzeria, time your trip with Franny’s cellar series, a carefully curated string of events for pizza lovers.

At Murray’s, meanwhile, located in Greenwich Village, there’s enough fromage here to keep customers awake for days (based on the notion that cheese gives you nightmares). From blue to brie, smoked to stinky, it’s no surprise that this cheese and charcuterie has been in business for over 70 years. Look out for the store’s demo and tasting sessions, or sign up for the Murray’s Cheese Bootcamp. frannysbrooklyn.com, murrayscheese.com

HIDDEN GEM Prepare to be transported to Tokyo at Sakagura. This Japanese hole-in-the-wall is where Humm goes “after a long night in the kitchen”. Sited in the basement of an office building in Midtown East, this cute and cosy eatery has been praised for introducing New Yorkers to the world of sake. Offering a one-of-a-kind menu comprising over 200 kinds of sake, authentic izakaya-style dishes and homemade desserts, the baked oysters and sea urchin are worth a stab of your fork.

Look towards the sea salt chocolate sorbet and black sesame crème brûlée for the ultimate meal closer. sakagura.com

FINGER FOOD Sticking with Asia, and Humm raves about the dumplings at Mandoo Bar and absolutely “loves” the Korean fried chicken at Mono + Mono. The former is a Korean, vegetarian-friendly restaurant located in Midtown where, as the name suggests (mandoo means dumplings in Korean), dining really is all about the dumplings. The mandoo spectrum scales seafood, chicken (mool) and beef (goon).

Mono + Mono, found in a lofty space in East Village, is a kitsch establishment serving Korean finger food to the sound of jazz music. Aside from the outstanding food, vaulted walls of records and regular DJ sets make dining here all the more alternative. mandoobarnyc.com, monomononyc.com World Traveller

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New York

Alexander Smalls, executive chef of Minton’s and The Cecil, and Banks White, chef de cuisine of Minton’s Restaurateur and Grammy Award winner Alexander Smalls has been commended for bringing a new kind of cooking to the New York masses via his restaurantcum-jazz club Minton’s: Southern Revival Cooking. Best described as ‘Low-country cuisine’ (a blend of flavours from South Carolina, Georgia and the string of islands within its coastal waterways), the executive chef of this Harlem hangout, and its sister restaurant, Afro-Asian-American brasserie The Cecil, has dominated the city’s gastronomy circuit for years. Smalls, together with Banks White, chef de cuisine of Minton’s, share their culinary hotspots in the Big Apple:

Clockwise from top left: Nomad Hotel; Keens Steakhouse dining room; Keens’ lamb chops; Nomad interiors; Food at Blue Smoke; Robert.

HEARTY GRUB For a roll-your-sleeves-up-and-get-stuckin dining experience, the culinary duo point towards Blue Smoke, a Manhattan barbecue joint in the Flatiron District.

A genius idea from restaurateur Danny Meyer, Blue Smoke has taken America’s regional barbecue traditions and turned them into a delectable menu for Manhattan’s gourmands to devour. The food is supersized and succulent, while the décor is authentic with red-vinyl booths and a skylit dining room. Don’t leave without trying the Memphis-style baby back ribs, before heading to the jazz club downstairs. bluesmoke.com

CELEB-SPOTTING

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Midtown mainstay Mr Chow has been a celebrity haunt since opening in 1979.

Described by Givenchy as a “precious jewel box”, Mr Chow’s Chinese haute cuisine never fails to wow its prestigious clientele, and its Beijing duck has been hailed the best in the world. Over the years, Mr Chow has hosted some of New York’s most exciting and elegant parties for museums, artists and fashion houses.

Celebrities are all eager to be seen here, ever since Andy Warhol became a regular – although these days you’re more likely to see Ryan Gosling tucking into some Mr Chow noodles. mrchow.com July // 2014

CARNIVORE’S PARADISE

LOVE ACTUALLY When it comes to romantic dining, Smalls and White suggest following cupid’s arrow to Bouley. The arched ceilings, gigantic Impressionist-style paintings and soft colour palette are all indicative of the French countryside. Helmed by eccentric chef David Bouley (the man who “doesn’t follow recipes”), this summer sees an exciting display of ingredients land on the restaurant’s sophisticated tables: late summer brings heirloom tomatoes, autumn sees white truffles, winter welcomes exotic fruits, leaving wild ramps to reign in spring. A few constants on the menu, however, include porcini flan with Alaska live Dungeness crab, grilled toro, and all-natural Pennsylvania chicken baked with alfalfa and clover hay. davidbouley.com

HOTEL DINING Found at the corner of 1170 Broadway & 28th street, the NoMad Hotel’s cuisine lives up to its name – chef Daniel Humm has created a menu inspired by his time in Switzerland, California and New York, to create something truly unique. The kitchen has pedigree, too – the restaurant is rooted in the same traditions found at the aforementioned three-Michelin starred eatery, Eleven Madison Park. The menu is sprinkled with exciting twists like the slow-cooked carrot with wheat berries, and brioche with nettles served alongside roast chicken. We’re not saying you should base your whole hotel stay on the dining options but, here, it’s not a bad idea. thenomadhotel.com World Traveller

Every true New Yorker – and of course, honourary visiting ones – loves a juicy steak. Keens Steakhouse has been slicing and dicing the most prime cuts of beef since 1885, becoming Manhattan’s bestknown USDA prime beef-only steakhouse.

Of course, this wasn’t always the case – when the restaurant was opened under the name Keens Chophouse, its signature dish was a succulent mutton chop, which still takes star billing on the menu. These days, however, the restaurant’s raison d’être is steak, dry-aged on the premises, and the Prime Porterhouse for three, truly a sight to behold. keens.com

CALORIE COUNTERS Many chefs will tell you that great food comes from great ingredients. Chef JeanGeorge Vongerichten’s ABC Kitchen, in trendy Union Square, takes that theory as gospel. The freshest ingredients, rotating by season, are cultivated to create a healthy riot of taste on the plate that is not only good for the diner, but also good for the planet. The menu is free from pesticides, synthetic fertilisers and insecticides, and is totally GMO free. Even the dining room itself is made up of found, salvaged, reclaimed and recycled materials. The “farm to table” ethos of the restaurant has proved a hit with diners, so book in advance. abchome.com

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DINING WITH A VIEW A true hipster hangout, Robert is located high atop the Museum of Arts & Design on Columbus Circle. The laid-back vibe extends to the sofas which diners are invited to lounge on while enjoying their food and the unparalleled views of Central Park, Broadway and said Columbus Circle. robertnyc.com July // 2014

Virginia

The Journey A road trip across Virginia takes in the places where America happened, from battlefields to presidents’ haunts – all to a backdrop of rolling hills, says Douglas Rogers

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rive west out of Washington DC into neighbouring Virginia, and for 30 miles you’re in a hellhole of urban sprawl.

What was rural farmland only a generation ago is now an ugly stretch of strip malls, town house developments and toll roads. Ten miles past Dulles airport, though, a strange thing happens. As if you have crossed a border, the sprawl suddenly clears, and you’re in glorious countryside: luminous green fields dotted with cows, sheep and horse farms; forests of maple, oak and birch all around; the Blue Ridge Mountains shimmering in the distance.

If there’s a point marking this sudden change, it’s a narrow north-south blacktop called Route 15, a former American Indian trail, a stretch of which – 180 miles from Gettysburg, Pennsylvania, down to Charlottesville, Virginia – was recently declared a National Heritage Area by the US Congress.

Known as The Journey Through Hallowed Ground, this section of Route 15 and the geography around it – villages, battlefields, plantation mansions, national parks – is more than a road.

It’s a passage into American history, in the most eventful corner of the United States. No fewer than nine presidents have lived along it; the greatest battles of the Civil War – Gettysburg, Antietam and dozens of others – took place on it; and documents from the Declaration of Independence to the Marshall Plan were either crafted or inspired by events right here. It’s the place “where America World Traveller

happened”, and British tourists flying into the capital can be travelling it barely an hour after landing.

I must declare a personal interest.

After eight years living in New York, I recently moved to the Quaker mill town of Waterford (population: 300), off Route 15 in northern Virginia. Local residents have fought a long campaign to save the town (founded in 1733) from the relentless urban sprawl that was destroying other historic landmarks between the Blue Ridge and DC. (At one point Disney was planning an American History theme park for the area).

In 2005, Cate Magennis Wyatt, a Waterford preservationist, linked up with other preservationists along Route 15, and the movement grew to embrace 350 organisations in 15 counties in four states: Pennsylvania, Maryland, West Virginia and Virginia. The designation of The Journey Through Hallowed Ground as a National Heritage Area has helped them slow the pace of development. So what better way, I thought, to get to know my new patch than to follow the route. I set off on a leisurely five-day drive, starting in Charlottesville, and winding my way up to the battlefields of Maryland and Pennsylvania.

The Journey begins, fittingly, where the United States began: “We hold these truths to be self-evident. All men are created equal…” Thomas Jefferson, founding father and third president, may not have written those exact words in his beloved home, Monticello, on a hilltop

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Virginia

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overlooking Charlottesville, but he was already living there when he drafted the Declaration of Independence in 1776. The 43-room Italian Renaissance mansion is the only private US residence on the World Heritage List, and it’s testament to his genius: not only did he design the house but he also invented the weathervane at the portico entrance, and the dumb waiter in the north-wing dining room – ideal for ferrying the fine wines he so loved from his cellar.

At that stage, not all men were created equal – the house was served by slaves quartered on Mulberry Row, a busy avenue behind it leading to a garden where 330 vegetable varieties grew. Today, archeologists for the Jefferson Foundation, which runs Monticello, are recreating Mulberry Row and the slave dwellings, recording the stories of those who worked here. But the view is the thing. From this high promontory you can see for miles in every direction – Jefferson’s Sea, as it’s called – and except for the now thriving university town of Charlottesville, directly below, it’s a panorama that has barely changed in 240 years.

Jefferson wasn’t the only president on this hill. Five miles away, on its southern slopes, lies Ash Lawn-Highland, the plantation home of his friend James Monroe, the fifth president. With its wooden floors, rustic outhouses and feel of a working farm, it’s a down-home shack in comparison with Monticello. Still, the tour guide, an impressive woman in period dress, spoke as reverently of Monroe as those at Monticello had spoken of Jefferson. “Of course the Monroe Doctrine is still relevant today…”

Jefferson famously advocated to Monroe and his other close friend James Madison (the fourth president) the creation of a “society of tastes”, and in a way Charlottesville is now exactly that.

Famous for the University of Virginia that Jefferson founded (alma mater of Georgia O’Keeffe), it’s a stronghold of liberal arts, with a vibrant theatre, music and dining scene – regularly rated one of the best places to live in the US. Residents include Sissy Spacek, John Grisham and the musician Dave Matthews – a keen preservationist whose vineyard, Blenheim, on the outskirts, stands as a buffer against development.

Madison’s home, Montpelier, is 20 miles farther north, and leaving Charlottesville I took Route 20, the Old Carolina Road – the same road Jefferson and Madison would have taken on horseback to visit each other 250 years ago. Green fields gave way to forest as it wound through the foothills of the Blue Ridge Mountains, white-tailed deer staring from the roadside.

A handsome two-floor Neoclassical mansion on a 2,500-acre estate, Montpelier was built by Madison’s father in 1764, and remained in the family until July // 2014

Opening page: Blue Ridge Mountains.

This page, clockwise from left: The Codori Farm, Gettysburg National Park; Skyline Drive; Waitress at Volt Restaurant; View of the Potomac River; A family of foxes; Whitetailed deer.

1840. (Like Jefferson, Madison died in debt.) In 1901, it was bought by the duPonts, who added a garish mural to its façade and a steeplechase track. But in 2008, after a US$24 million restoration, it was returned to the way it had looked in Madison’s day. From the second-floor library, I looked out on the same peerless Blue Ridge view Madison had surveyed in 1786 as he considered that great question: “How best can we govern ourselves?”

A towering intellectual, he read more than 400 books in seven languages while drafting the US Constitution, including, as our guide explained, texts in original Latin, Hebrew and Greek. “They don’t make ’em like that any more,” someone next to me drawled. Not all the duPont additions have gone: I made a note to return for the Montpelier Hunt Races held on the steeplechase track in November, a Virginia society event since 1934.

Rejoining Route 15 and heading north, The Journey now moves from founding fathers to Civil War territory.

No town saw more action in that war – 160 skirmishes – than Culpeper, a busy railroad stop off Route 15 in central Virginia. According to local lore, “Union and Confederate forces came through so many times you had to look at the courthouse to see which flag was flying to know how to act”. The rival Generals Grant and Lee were regulars, and General Custer had his horse shot out from under

The Journey begins, fittingly, where the United States began him during the Battle of Culpeper Court House. The town was laid out in 1749 by one George Washington, then a 17-yearold surveyor. Today, the downtown area, with its restored Italianate and Neoclassical brick buildings, is lined with boutiques and restaurants, a hip weekend spot for the DC set.

One draw is the Library of Congress’s National Audio-Visual Conservation Centre, based since 2007 in a former Federal nuclear bunker. Barely visible from the road, roof covered in trees and soil, it contains a copy of pretty much every film ever made in the US. My own favourite attraction was a little farther north: the delightfully named Brandy Station. Today it’s a dusty nohorse railroad town, but on June 9, 1863 it was the scene of the largest cavalry battle in US history, some 20,000 soldiers on horseback clashing on its open grounds.

In 1993, a house by the tracks was about to be demolished when workers discovered initials and signatures scrawled in charcoal on its walls, under peeling plaster. It World Traveller

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Virginia

Where to refuel on the road The C & O (candorestaurant. com), in downtown Charlottesville, is a local gem serving farm-fresh fare (sautéed veal liver, charred salmon), usually with a side of live gipsy jazz.

The chef Dean Maupin has made Fossett’s at Keswick Hall ­ iÃÜ V °V ® Ì i w i ` } experience on The Journey.

Seasonal dishes include Þi Üw ÌÕ > Ü Ì v i }À>Ã > ` > Ü ÌiÀ ÌÀÕvyi À Ã ÌÌ ° In lively Culpeper, the Hazel River Inn (hazelriverinn.com) is a down-home American eatery – burgers, steaks – in a landmark 1759 brick building, while the top gourmet table in town is Foti’s (fotisrestaurant.com) across the street where they serve free-range beef, heirloom tomatoes and handmade cheeses.

In Leesburg, Hunter’s Head Tavern (huntersheadtavern. com) is an English-style gastro pub owned by Sandy Lerner, founder of Cisco Systems.

Produce for the bangers and mash and shepherd’s pie come from her nearby organic farm, Ayrshire, and are also sold at her exclusive Home Farm Store (homefarmstore.com) on Middleburg’s main street.

For a more down-home experience, the Horseshoe Curve (540 554 8291), on a bend in the Blue Ridge Mountains near Bluemont, is a cult local bar-restaurant, often featuring bluegrass bands.

In Frederick, the Shab Row Bistro (shabrowwine.com) is a wonderful French-American place with a superb drinks list.

The chef, Kevin Longmire, likes Ì V Ü Ì ÌÀÕvyi > ` `ÕV fat.

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Volt (voltrestaurant.com), which is housed in a gorgeous downtown brownstone space and run by Bryan Voltaggio, runner-up in the television show Top Chef, remains the best dining experience between here and Manhattan. Expect fresh and infused delights such as foie gras jelly cubes, yellow-corn ravioli and much more.

July // 2014

Clockwise from top left: Alexandria Farmers’ Market; Monticello; Skyline Drive; Cannons at Gettysburg National Park; Chef Bryan Voltaggio.

WHERE TO STAY In Charlottesville, Keswick Hall, set in lush grounds six miles east of town, is a lavish 48-suite spa and golf resort. In grape country north of Montpelier, the 10-suite Inn at Meander Plantation, part of an 18th-century estate, is famous for its gourmet dinners and cooking school. Meanwhile, DC power players and assorted gentry opt for the sprawling rooms and grounds of the Welbourne in Middleburg.

turned out the house had served as a field hospital for wounded soldiers on both sides, and they had written their names on the walls. The Graffiti House, as it’s now known, is preserved, and a major stop on The Journey.

The word ‘preserved’ is overused, of course, and by no means all of the area incorporated in the National Heritage Area is unspoilt. On the advice of a Waterford neighbour, I stopped at Buckland, a tiny settlement near Manassas, unmarked by road signs, and found only on the map of The Journey. It comprised a dozen wood-and-stone cabins dating from 1798 set in woods on a creek.

The catch? It lies yards from a strip mall, at a busy intersection of Interstate 66.

Interstate 66 is not to be confused with Route 66, for although this is an American journey, it’s not an open-road, wind-inthe-hair trip through Americana, as in, say, Kerouac’s On the Road. Indeed, as I edged towards Loudoun County, my new home county (and the wealthiest in the US), the landscape – hedgerows, hills, winding lanes – reminded me more of rural England.

I walked the haunting Manassas National Battlefield Park, site of the first major battle of the Civil War in August 1861 (expecting a Union rout, DC residents famously arrived with picnic hampers to watch from the hills; four years and 625,000 dead later…), then I returned to the car, took a left on Route 50, and made my way to Middleburg for the night.

I checked into the stonewalled Red Fox Inn (established 1728) – hunt scenes World Traveller

on the walls, logs in the fire. Outside, snow began to fall. This is horse country: JFK and Jackie rode to hounds here, and Liz Taylor shacked up with a local gent, Senator John Warner. They all loved the Red Fox. If anything, Middleburg has become even more upmarket since then. I strolled the main street in the morning, Range Rovers dispensing jodhpur-clad women. And I admit I had the best bangers and mash in my life at the exquisite Hunter’s Head Tavern in Upperville, five miles west, a gastropub with a red London phone box outside.

Some 30 towns are incorporated in

The lush fields are as hauntingly beautiful today as they were horrifying then

The Journey, and if Middleburg is the smartest, Leesburg, which is the closest to Waterford, and where I buy my groceries, is one of the most historic. Of the grand buildings downtown, I love the custardyellow Dodona Manor, home of General George C Marshall, after whom the Marshall Plan was named.

The most dynamic downtown, though, is Frederick, across the Potomac River in Maryland, 18 miles farther north.

Consisting of some 20 blocks of perfectly preserved Federal homes, it’s lined with

bars and farm-to-table restaurants – largely thanks to the success of two local brothers in a television series, Top Chef.

Due west of Frederick, still in Maryland, is Antietam, scene of the single bloodiest day in American history – 23,000 dead and wounded. The lush fields are as hauntingly beautiful today as they were horrifying then. Union victory at Antietam led Lincoln to draft the Emancipation Proclamation that would free the slaves. From here, it’s worth visiting Harpers Ferry, West Virginia, back across the Potomac, the farthest point on The Journey from Route 15. The town stands on a high bluff overlooking where the Potomac and Shenandoah rivers meet, mountains and cliffs all around (it’s a gorgeous canoeing and hiking area). A raid by the radical abolitionist John Brown on the Federal arsenal here in 1859 led, indirectly, to the outbreak two years later of the Civil War. At every point on The Journey you find yourself immersed in history. At Monocacy, a battlefield outside Frederick, a park ranger pointed out a red barn to me on a still-working farm where Union soldiers took cover from Confederate gunfire. Rush-hour traffic zipped past it. And at Gettysburg, the greatest battlefield of all, I stood where Lincoln, on November 19, 1863, gave one of the greatest speeches in human history. “Four score and seven years ago,” he began the Gettysburg Address, invoking the principles of equality espoused 87 years earlier by Jefferson in the Declaration of Independence. The Journey had come full circle, and I had seen many worlds.

July // 2014

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United Arab Emirates • Cambodia • China • Indonesia • Maldives • Mozambique • Thailand • Vietnam

Weekends Everything you need to know about short-haul escapes

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Escape to sub-tropical Salalah

Spend 48 hours in Amman

Live like royalty in Rajasthan

World Traveller

July // 2014

WEEKENDS

HOTEL IN

NUMBERS

1,002

i Ì Ì i Ü À `½Ã wÀÃÌ } ` vending machine, Emirates Palace in Abu Dhabi has been wowing guests since 2005.

Let’s crunch some numbers…

The number of chandeliers, with the largest weighing 2.5 tonnes

ZEITGEIST This month everyone is...

Eating... mouthwatering sushi and nigiri, washed down with Japan’s national drink, at Toko Dubai’s new Sushi & Sake night, every Tuesday from 7pm to 9pm. toko-dubai.com Visiting... Tashkeel Gallery near The Meydan in Dubai for its annual summer exhibition featuring the works of UAEbased artists, on show until August 28. tashkeel.org Booking... a staycation at Dar Al Masyaf in Madinat Jumeirah. The hotel’s summerhouses overlooking the Burj Al Arab feature lush gardens and 24-hour butler service. jumeirah.com

110,000

The amount, in cubic metres, of marble used to build the hotel

394

114

The number of domes, with the Central Dome measuring 72.6 metres high

5

The number of rooms and suites, ranging from 55sqm to 680sqm

The weight, in kilograms, of edible gold used per year to decorate desserts and drinks

MIDDLE EAST

MUST DO MONSOON SEASON IN SAL AL AH

A sub-tropical city in the Middle East?

Sounds unbelievable, but it does exist.

From mid-June to September, monsoon clouds from India descend on Salalah in Oman’s Dhofar region, bringing light drizzle and fog and transforming the region into a lush green oasis.

Add balmy temperatures of around 27 degrees, miles of sandy beaches and clusters of fragrant frankincense trees, and it’s easy to see why this

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southern-most tip of the Sultanate is so popular with holidaymakers (over 350,000 visited last season). The annual Salalah Tourism Festival, which starts on July 29 and runs until September 6, is a colourful celebration of local culture, with traditional dance and music performances, craft exhibitions, and activities for kids. Wondering where to stay? Check in to the new Salalah Rotana Resort – just be sure to book ahead.

WEEKENDS

48 HOURS IN...

Jordan’s charismatic capital has ancient ruins, colourful quarters, and the Dead Sea on its doorstep

AMMAN FRIDAY

SATURDAY

Ū /QTPKPI: Originally founded on seven hills but now spread over 19, the capital’s best vantage point is from the crumbling citadel, Jabal alQal’a. Explore the ruins of the Roman Temple of Hercules, 6th-century Byzantine church and impressive Umayyad Palace. Then pop into the Jordan Archaeological Museum to view the Dead Sea Scrolls.

Ū /QTPKPI: Just an hour’s drive from Amman, the Dead Sea is the lowest point on earth. The warm water is 10 times saltier than seawater, making it incredibly buoyant, so spend your day bobbing about and slathering yourself in mineral-rich mud. Check out the public beach’s rocky shore, or head to the Crowne Jordan Dead Sea Resort & Spa and enjoy the resort’s swimming pools and restaurants while you’re there.

Ū #HVGTPQQP: At the foot of the Citadel lie the remains of the ancient city of Philadelphia. Cut into the side of the hill, the 6,000-seat Roman Theatre was built in the 2nd century, along with the Forum and its colonnaded path. The site also houses two small but interesting museums, the Folklore Museum and the Museum of Popular Traditions. Ū 'XGPKPI: Head to Jabal al-Weibdeh, one of Amman’s oldest neighbourhoods, and cook your own four-course Arabic dinner at Beit Sitti (beitsittijo.com). Set in an historic townhouse, Maria Haddad will show you how to make home-style favourites such as musakhan (chicken pie with onions and sumac) and fattet magdoos (eggplant and minced meat casserole).

ĹŞ #HVGTPQQP: Once back in Amman, stop by Rainbow Street for a relaxing afternoon amble. This cool quarter is full of espresso bars, pavement cafĂŠs and antiques shops.

Continue onto Downtown, the geographical heart of Amman, to explore the souks and noisy streets.

9JGTG VQ UVC[

+PVGT%QPVKPGPVCN ,QTFCP (intercontinental.com) Located in the diplomatic district and walking distance to Rainbow Street, this hotel has 440 newly renovated rooms and an excellent spa offering Dead Sea treatments.

(QWT 5GCUQPU (fourseasons.com) A little further away from the main tourist sites, this 192room hotel has large, modern rooms and restaurants offering Arabic, Japanese and Italian cuisines.

ĹŞ 'XGPKPI: Dine on excellent Lebanese, washed down with a bottle of good Jordanian grape, at Fakhr-El Din (fakhreldin.com). Located in Jabal Amman, the elegant stone villa was the former …œ“i Âœv ÂœĂ€`>Â˜Â˝Ăƒ wĂ€ĂƒĂŒ ÂŤĂ€ÂˆÂ“i minister and features marble yÂœÂœĂ€Ăƒ >˜` >˜ >Â? vĂ€iĂƒVÂœ ĂŒiÀÀ>Vi (make sure you book in advance). Finish off with a nightcap at SalutĂŠ, a trendy bar opposite the restaurant.

#UM C EQPEKGTIG

4CCHCV &GDCU, from the InterContinental Jordan, on the city’s best local haunts...

9KNF ,QTFCP %CHĂ… This cafĂŠ uses top-quality ingredients from Jordan’s ˜>ĂŒĂ•Ă€i Ă€iĂƒiÀÛiĂƒ] ĂœÂˆĂŒÂ… ÂŤĂ€ÂœwĂŒĂƒ going to the Royal Society for the Conservation of Nature. #N 2CUJC 6WTMKUJ $CVJ Turkish baths are famous in the Middle East and date back to the Ottoman Empire. Head here for a relaxing massage.

World Traveller

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4Q[CN #WVQOQDKNG /WUGWO This museum has an amazing collection of motorbikes and cars used by the Royal Family, from the Great Arab Revolt in 1916 to modern times.

July // 2014

WEEKENDS

GO WITH THE

FLOW

>À Ì i Þ Ì v ,> >`> LÞ Ã> « } à i v ÕL> ½Ã LiÃÌ vÌ>À vviÀ }Ã

yes

Want to be on the Palm?

yes

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5QƂVGN &WDCK 6JG 2CNO This Polynesian-themed resort is offering a traditional iftar buffet at Manava restaurant, with dishes such as ouzi lamb, dates and dried fruits, and Ramadan drinks like karkade ­ L ÃVÕà y ÜiÀ Ìi>®° "«i vÀ ÃÕ ÃiÌ Õ Ì ££« ] Ì Ü ÃiÌ Þ Õ L>V ãÇx° à wÌi °V

July // 2014

yes

no

Prefer a set menu?

no

Fancy pushing the boat out?

yes

And eat late?

yes

no

Looking for a traditional buffet?

7> Ì Ì Ü>ÌV Ì i 7 À ` Õ« w > ¶

3DCTC À V Ìi « À>ÀÞ ƂÀ>L V ` }] Þ Õ V> ½Ì } «>ÃÌ +L>À> 7>w > ° / iÀi½Ã > Ài>à >L Þ «À Vi` vÌ>À i Õ v À ãnä vÀ ÃÕ ÃiÌ ¼Ì n°Îä« ] LÕÌ Ì i ,> >`> Ý«iÀ i Vi «À ÃiÃ Ì Li à iÌ } ëiV > ­> ` V ÃÌà > ivÌÞ Ã{xä®° "«i vÀ ÃÕ ÃiÌ Õ Ì Ó> ° µL>À>°>i

no

no

(CKTOQPV 6JG 2CNO Flow Kitchen has a huge selection of Middle Eastern cuisine, including hot and cold mezze, live shawarma and mannakesh stations, traditional juices and desserts like awamat (fried dough L> î° ƂÛ> >L i vÀ ÃÕ ÃiÌ Õ Ì « ] Ì V ÃÌà ãnx° v> À Ì°V

5V 6TQRG\ $KUVTQ À > > ÌiÀ >Ì Ûi vÌ>À] ÌÀÞ -Ì /À «iâ½Ã > V ë Ài` ÃiÌ i Õ° Ãi vÀ V >Ãà Và ÃÕV >à Ài V à ի] à À > ` VÀm i LÀ× ji° Three courses costs Dhs159, with an à la carte menu also available until midnight at this > v Ì i À>Ìià Ìë Ì° ÃÌÌÀ «iâ°>i

yes

1PG 1PN[ 4Q[CN /KTCIG This beachfront hotel is ÃiÀÛ } Õ« i` ë Ài` vÌ>À `i } Ìà >Ì " ÛiÃ] Ü i > >à ` > V >Ãà Vð "«i vÀ ÃÕ ÃiÌ Õ Ì n°Îä« ] Ì i buffets cost Dhs190, leaving you with change to catch all the live football action at Roof / « -« ÀÌÃ Õ }i° i> ` ÞÀià ÀÌðV

WEEKENDS

THE

GREAT ESCAPE ANANTARA AL YAMM VILLA RESORT TRY BEFORE

YOU FLY Heading Down Under? Aussie chef Natalie Bolt from Bushman’s Restaurant & Bar at Anantara Dubai The Palm Resort & Spa, has some tasty suggestions…

K ANGAROO Kangaroo meat is high in protein and low in fat (about 2 per cent). We serve it with a quandong chilli glaze, a desert fruit with a sweet exotic y>Û ÕÀ } Ì >Ì V « i i ÌÃ the strong game taste of the meat. Sample it at Adelaide’s Red Ochre Grill (redochre.com.au).

Sounds suitably exotic – where is it?

Anantara Al Yamm Villa Resort is one of three secluded Anantara resorts on - À > 9>à à > `] ƂLÕ >L ° V>Ìi` along the eastern beaches, it’s inspired LÞ Ì i à « V ÌÞ v > ÌÀ>` Ì > wà } village. There are just 30 luxurious villas decorated in natural hues with either beachfront or mangrove lagoon vistas.

BARR AMUNDI / à vÀià Ü>ÌiÀ wà à i v ƂÕÃÌÀ> >½Ã w iÃÌ wÃ Ì i>Ì] `Õi Ì Ìà wÀ ] Ü Ìi > ` w i }À> i` i>Ì° Ì Ûià in the warmer waters of northern Australia and tastes simply delicious when prepared with a macadamia nut crust. Try it at Ochre in Cairns (ochrerestaurant.com).

PAVLOVA / Ã iÀ }Õi L>Ãi` ÌÀi>Ì Ì ««i` with fruits, syrups and cream is a popular dessert eaten all year round.

There can be various takes on a “pav”– our constructed version prepared by one of our chefs at your table is certainly unique. Tuck in at Sydney’s Rockpool Bar & Grill (rockpool.com).

World Traveller

Win!

We’ve got one night’s stay, for two people including breakfast, at Anantara Al Yamm Villa Resort up for grabs. If you’d love to escape to this secluded patch of paradise, all you need to do is answer the following question correctly: How many villas make up Anantara Al Yamm Villa Resort?

A) 10 B) 30 C) 45

Isn’t the island a wildlife sanctuary? Ì ViÀÌ> Þ Ã° Ƃà > Ü À } Ü ` vi Ã> VÌÕ>ÀÞ] - À > 9>à à > ` «À Û `ià plenty of opportunities to spot gazelle and Arabian oryx. Opt for a guided wildlife walk, drive, or mountain bike excursion, or kayak through the > }À ÛiÃ] >` À } Ì i y> } Ã Ì >Ì wade elegantly along the shoreline.

It’s enough to make me hungry.

What’s on the menu?

Head straight to Olio, the resort’s à } >ÌÕÀi Ì> > ÀiÃÌ>ÕÀ> Ì Ü Ì delicious food and views to match. Or for something truly special, try dining by candlelight in the desert (or wherever you fancy) with a private chef and butler.

You can also visit the restaurants at Anantara’s nearby sister resorts, along with the fabulous spa.

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Email your answer to easywin@ hotmediapublishing.com before July 31. Terms and conditions apply on the prize.

July // 2014

Weekends brought to you by

World Traveller Weekend Offers Jordan

Sri Lanka

Le Royal Amman 2 nights from USD200 per person.

Special offer: 16% rate reduction plus free internet access.

Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfast or Suhoor daily and return airport transfer.

Validity: Now ‘til July 27, 2014.

Avani Kalutara 3 nights from USD240 per person.

Special offer: 10% rate reduction Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers.

Validity: Now ‘til July 31, 2014.

Lebanon

UAE

InterContinental Phoenicia Beirut 2 nights from USD345 per person.

Special offer: 10% rate reduction plus a complimentary upgrade to the next available room category.

Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Queen City View Room with breakfast daily and return limousine airport transfer.

Validity: Now ‘til July 25, 2014.

Maldives

Banyan Tree Al Wadi Resort & Spa, Ras Al Khaimah 1 night from USD210 per person.

Special offer: 10% rate reduction as well as complimentary upgrade to half board plus a Rainforest Spa experience and a 45-minute archery session.

Includes: Stay in an Al Rimal Deluxe Pool Villa with breakfast daily.

Validity: Now ‘til July 23, 2014.

Kurumba 4 nights from USD480 per person.

Special offer: Stay 3 nights and receive an additional night free.

Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast daily and return speedboat transfers.

Validity: Now ‘til July 24, 2014.

5QƂVGN &WDCK 6JG 2CNO 4GUQTV & Spa 1 night from USD120 per person.

Special offer: 25% rate reduction plus a complimentary upgrade to half board (dinner or Iftar).

Includes: Stay in a Luxury Sea View Room with breakfast or Suhour daily.

Validity: Now ‘til July 26, 2014.

Qatar

Oman

Four Seasons Hotel Doha 1 night from USD140 per person.

Special offer: Receive 20% discount on all food and beverage and 15% discount on laundry, plus guaranteed late check out until 4pm.

Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfast or Iftar daily.

Validity: Now ‘til July 27, 2014.

Karumba

Hilton Salalah Resort 2 nights from USD175 per person.

Special offer: Complimentary upgrade to half board plus 10% discount on spa treatments.

Includes: Stay in a Standard Room with breakfast or Suhour daily.

Validity: Now ‘til September 15, 2014.

How to book

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You can book these offers by calling dnata on +971 4 316 6666 or by visiting dnatatravel.com. Terms and conditions apply. On the same site you can also sign up to dnata’s newsletter and receive more offers direct to your inbox.

July // 2014

Four Seasons Hotel Doha

InterContinental Phoencia Beirut

InterContinental Phoenicia Beirut

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CALL: 8004770 800701 Dubai & Northern Emirates Abu Dhabi & Al Ain

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World Traveller

July // 2014

6 Of The Best

1. Rambagh Palace, Jaipur

Built in 1835 as a modest pad for the queen’s favourite servant, Rambagh was vastly expanded in 1920s and remained the home of Jaipur’s royalty until 1957, when it was converted into a luxury hotel. It features ornamental gardens, marblecolumned courtyards, and 79 rooms and suites swathed in silk and decorated with elaborate murals. Experience the sport of kings at Rambagh Polo Grounds, or at a more leisurely pace on elephant back, then explore the Pink City in a chauffeur-driven vintage car. tajhotels.com

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SIX of the BEST…

INDIAN PALACE HOTELS Ûi i > > >À> > ,> >ÃÌ > ½Ã >} wVi Ì v À iÀ «> >ViÃ

July // 2014

2. Raj Palace, Jaipur

Located right in the heart of Jaipur, the palace was built in 1727 and converted into a hotel in 1995.

Sumptuous inside and out, it features colourful frescoes, crystal chandeliers, antique furniture, and acres of gilt and marble.

There are 29 rooms and suites overlooking the decorative gardens, courtyard, and pool, as well as three restaurants, a cinema, spa, and museum displaying exquisite 18th and 19th-century crockery. The former palace continues to attract an illustrious guest list, from Bollywood stars to writers and royalty. slh.com

3. Umaid Bhawan Palace, Jodhpur

Perched high above the desert, this 347-room palace was commissioned by Maharaja Umaid Singh in the late 1920s.

The family still lives in part of the palace, while the rest is given over to a luxurious 64-room hotel. Built in monumental Art Deco style, the honey-coloured building features Renaissancestyle interiors, marble squash courts, a subterranean Zodiac pool along with an outdoor one overlooking the Mehrangarh Fort, and 26 acres of lush gardens. tajhotels.com World Traveller

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July // 2014

6 Of The Best

4. Ranvas, Nagaur v ĂžÂœĂ•Â˝Ă€i ĂƒĂ•vviĂ€ÂˆÂ˜} vĂ€ÂœÂ“ ÂœÂŤĂ•Â?i˜Vi overload, this pared-down ÂŤ>Â?>Vi ÂˆĂƒ Â?Ă•ĂƒĂŒ ĂŒÂ…i ĂŒÂˆVÂŽiĂŒÂ° Ensconced within the 4thViÂ˜ĂŒĂ•Ă€Ăž Ć‚Â…Â…ÂˆVÂ…>ĂŒĂ€>}>À… ÂœĂ€ĂŒ >Ă€i 10 havelis, former residences of ĂŒÂ…i ¾ÕiiÂ˜Ăƒ Âœv >Â…>Ă€>Â?> Â…>ÂŽ>ĂŒ -ˆ˜}…° >VÂ… Â…>Ă›iÂ?ˆ Â…>Ăƒ Lii˜ ĂƒiÂ˜ĂƒÂˆĂŒÂˆĂ›iÂ?Ăž Ă€iĂƒĂŒÂœĂ€i`] ĂœÂˆĂŒÂ… ĂŒĂœÂœ or three bedrooms decorated with artisanal furnishings >˜` > ÂŤĂ€ÂˆĂ›>ĂŒi VÂœĂ•Ă€ĂŒĂž>Ă€`°

ÂœÂ˜ĂŒiÂ“ÂŤÂœĂ€>ÀÞ Â?Ă•Ă?Ă•Ă€ÂˆiĂƒ ˆ˜VÂ?Ă•`i a swimming pool, spa, and two Ă€iĂƒĂŒ>Ă•Ă€>Â˜ĂŒĂƒ ˆ˜VÂ?Ă•`ˆ˜} > w˜i `ˆ˜ˆ˜} ÂœÂŤĂŒÂˆÂœÂ˜Â° /Âœ}iĂŒÂ…iĂ€ ĂœÂˆĂŒÂ… iÂ…Ă€>˜}>À… ÂœĂ€ĂŒ ˆ˜ Âœ`Â…ÂŤĂ•Ă€] the fort hosts the spectacular 7ÂœĂ€Â?` -Ă•w -ÂŤÂˆĂ€ÂˆĂŒ iĂƒĂŒÂˆĂ›>Â? i>VÂ… iLÀÕ>ÀÞ° ranvasnagaur.com

5. Taj Lake Palace, Udaipur

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Built in 1743 as a summer retreat for Maharana Jagat Singh II, this white marble “>ĂƒĂŒiĂ€ÂŤÂˆiVi yÂœ>ĂŒĂƒ Â?ˆŽi > Â“ÂˆĂ€>}i ˆ˜ ĂŒÂ…i “ˆ``Â?i Âœv >ÂŽi *ˆVÂ…ÂœÂ?>° Turned into a hotel in 1963, the former palace was later used as a location in the James œ˜` wÂ?“ "VĂŒÂœÂŤĂ•ĂƒĂƒĂžÂ° ,i>VÂ…i` LĂž > ĂƒÂ…ÂœĂ€ĂŒ LÂœ>ĂŒ Ă€Âˆ`i] ĂŒÂ…i Â…ÂœĂŒiÂ? features 83 rooms and suites resplendent with coloured vĂ€iĂƒVÂœiĂƒ >˜` V>ÀÛi` vĂ•Ă€Â˜ÂˆĂŒĂ•Ă€i° With a personal butler on hand to organise spa treatments and ÂŤĂ€ÂˆĂ›>ĂŒi `ˆ˜ˆ˜} œ˜ ĂŒÂ…i Â?>ÂŽi ÂœĂ€ LĂž ĂŒÂ…i Â?ˆÂ?Ăž ÂŤÂœÂ˜`] ĂŒÂ…ÂˆĂƒ ÂˆĂƒ ,>Â?>ĂƒĂŒÂ…>˜ˆ ÂœÂŤĂ•Â?i˜Vi >ĂŒ ÂˆĂŒĂƒ Ă›iÀÞ LiĂƒĂŒÂ° tajhotels.com July // 2014

6. Devi Garh by lebua, Udaipur

Close to the sprawling Eklingji temple complex, this 18th century hilltop palace was the residence of the region’s royal rulers for over 200 years. The sandstone fort lay in ruins until it was converted into a romantic retreat in 2000, following ten years of extensive restoration.

The 39-suite property blends traditional architecture with minimalist modern style, giving it an eclectic feel that you won’t w ` }À> `iÀ «> >Við / iÀi½Ã a restaurant serving local and international fare using organic ingredients from the kitchen garden and a candlelit terrace with lovely views over the village below. lebua.com

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World Traveller

July // 2014

WEEKENDS

SUITE DREAMS

Arabian-inspired opulence awaits at this Omani resort

What:

Al Bandar Suite Where:

Shangri-La’s Barr Al Jissah Resort & Spa, Muscat, Oman About:

With seven different types of luxurious suites spread across three hotels, choosing where to lay your head is about as taxing as it gets at this oceanfront retreat.

The resort’s focal point is Al Bandar Hotel, which features architecture inspired by old Muscat, swaying date palms and sea-facing suites with contemporary Arabian-style décor, spacious living area and private balcony. Or splash out in palatial style in Al Husn Hotel’s Royal Suite, which comes with a private elevator and butler service. With 21 restaurants and six pools, not to mention the private beach, 500m Lazy River connecting two of the hotels and a resident turtle ranger, this resort is pretty much perfect in our eyes.

Special Offer:

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Book any suite from OMR165 per night* and enjoy a host of extras including daily buffet breakfast, OMR70 spa or restaurant credit, free minibar, non-motorised water sports, Wi-Fi and access to the kids’ club. The offer is valid now until December 25, 2014. To book, visit shangri-la. com/muscat. *Price is subject to a 9 per cent government tax and 8 per cent service charge. Offer cannot be combined with any other promotions. Gifted credits are per stay.

July // 2014

Amazing Summer Savings at One&Only One&Only The Palm, Dubai Stay 2 nights with a complimentary dinner

One&Only Cape Town, South Africa

Stay 4 nights and save 25% on all room categories including

at ZEST and 2 for 1 spa treatments

Table Mountain and Presidential Suites

One&Only Le Saint GĂŠran, Mauritius

One&Only Reethi Rah, Maldives

Save 40% on accommodation plus complimentary half board

Stay 4 pay 3 with half board and complimentary luxury yacht transfers

One&Only Royal Mirage, Dubai

To make a reservation, please contact your

Stay 3 nights or more and save 50% on the second room for your children

preferred travel professional or visit

oneandonlyresorts.com *Terms and conditions: All offers are applicable to new bookings only. Offers are not transferable or exchangeable to cash and not combinable with any other offer. Not applicable to group bookings (10 rooms or more). Some restrictions and other terms and conditions apply. One&Only Resorts reserves the right to withdraw all offers at any time. Minimum nights stay may apply.