10dhs
March 2014
Issue Seventy One
PARIS
Produced in International Media Production Zone
Why spring is the perfect season of all to visit the City of Lights
Canada Mumbai Morocco New York
DO YOU TRAVEL TO SEE OR TO DISCOVER? Isn’t the real excitement of travel about discovering something new? At InterContinentalŽ we use our local knowledge of a destination so you can enjoy what makes it unique. In London, for example, our Concierges will help you explore the city’s lesser known historic markets such as Leadenhall; a beautifully covered Victorian arcade nestled amongst the city’s modern skyscrapers, offering some of WKH ÀQHVW IRRG DQG ERXWLTXH VWRUHV LQ /RQGRQ :KDWHYHU \RX FKRRVH WR GR ZH FDQ KHOS \RX GLVFRYHU WUXO\ authentic experiences that will stay with you long after you come home.
Do you live an InterContinental life?
For more information or to make a reservation, please call 800 897 1465 (KSA) or 800 4642 (UAE) or visit intercontinental.com
*O PWFS MPDBUJPOT BDSPTT UIF HMPCF JODMVEJOH %6#"* t ,6"-" -6.163 t -0/%0/ t 4*/("103& Š 2014 IHG. All Rights Reserved. Most hotels are independently owned and operated.
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Editor’s Note
Issue Seventy One, March 2014 Whenever a new month arrives, the WT headquarters is buzzing with new ideas, new travel plans and new objectives. This issue we’ve tried to capture this flurry of activity in the hope of kickstarting your holiday blueprint for March. First up, Brooklyn-based photographer Guillaume Gaudet takes us on a pictorial tour of his home city, capturing iconic street scenes in the Big Apple. Springtime Europe always rings with activity, and 2014 cues a cultural explosion in Paris. From French pastries at pavement cafés to lazy strolls through blossom-filled parks, local guide Anna Brooke reveals why the city of lights zings in spring. Of course with a new season comes a new wardrobe. The team at WT have trawled the globe for the finest shopping streets to swipe your credit card. Wallets, ready, set, go. And finally, Adam Karlin heads to Luzon, the Philippines’ largest island, and discovers a land of riches. Feeling inspired? You should be.
Managing Director
Victoria Thatcher Editorial Director
John Thatcher Editor
Tracey Scott Deputy Editor
Richard Jenkins Features Editor
Lara Brunt Senior Designer
Adam Sneade Designer & Illustrator
Andy Knappett Production Manager
Chalitha Fernando To contact any of the above people, email firstname@hotmediapublishing.com
Jan-Jun 2013 | 22,920 | BPA Consumer Audit Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller. Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494
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Tracey Scott tracey@hotmediapublishing.com
@WT_magazine
Cover: Champ de Mars near the Eiffel Tower in Paris.
SLEEP.
OUR MOST POPULAR DESTINATION. Do not disturb. Stretched out on a fully-flat bed. The sumptuous soft mattress and bedtime drink beginning to take effect. About to touch down on a cotton-wool cloud. From gentle ambient cabin lighting, to soothing pillow mist aromas, see how far we’re going to bring you some well-deserved sleep at etihad.com/comfortzone Welcome to a more comfortable world.
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Contents
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6-31
33-64
65-80
Check In
Destinations
Concierge
Supermodel turned Starwood Hotels & Resorts ambassador Helena Christensen puts in a shift as a travel photographer. Plus, Guillaume Gaudet’s snapshots of glorious New York show us how the real people live, and new hotels from Miami to Kyoto fuel our travelling dreams.
Fresh from the world’s fashion weeks, we bring you the world’s best shopping streets from Shanghai to Milan via Paris. On the other side of the world, iconic Canada puts forward its case for a visit, and Adam Karlin explores Luzon, the biggest island in the Philippines.
We dive into Mumbai’s bustling, madcap lifestyle for a taste of true Indian living, and explore Phnom Penh, the jewel in Cambodia’s crown. Elsewhere, we pick out six hotels which influenced literary history, and an idyllic villa in the Maldives rounds off this month’s Suite Dreams.
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Check In Photography: Helena Christensen
The Essentials
Seasoned traveller, model and photographer Helena Christensen has unveiled her first photo series for Starwood Hotels & Resorts Worldwide. Following her recent appointment as the brand’s Global Traveller, a role that requires the Danish model to offer an artistic view of The Luxury Collection’s destinations through visual
collaborations such as photography, Christensen‘s debut photo collection, Visual Journey, Peru, documents her journey to the Sacred Valley, Paracas and the colonial city of Cusco. From local wildlife and Peruvian women to mountains at dusk and sand dunes at dawn, the stunning series went under the hammer at Gavel and Grand last month.
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Welcome to Miami COMO Hotels & Resorts is set to open its first urban hotel in the US this month. The 74-room Metropolitan by COMO, Miami Beach will be sited in an old 1930s building in the city’s Historic District, overlooking the iconic Miami Beach. Designed by Paola Navone, the property will also house a COMO Shambhala spa, yoga terrace, rooftop hydrotherapy pool and two restaurants. comohotels.com
For the ladies, Hermès offers a chic backpack perfect for pounding the streets of your chosen destination
BAG IT
Carry your belongings around in comfort this holiday season with WT’s selection of day bags…
Holiday Zen Touted as Japan’s first urban resort, the Ritz-Carlton, Kyoto is now open for bookings. Marking the hospitality group’s fourth property in Japan, the hotel sits on the banks of the Kamogawa River in Nijho Ohashi, close to Kyoto’s popular downtown areas Gion and Kawaramachi-dori. The luxury rooms and suites offer stunning views of the river and the Higashiyama Mountains, while the facilities are second to none. ritzcarlton.com
For something sturdy, look towards Bally and its collection of men’s mini messenger bags
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Burberry’s little duffle bag in canvas check, trimmed with soft leather, is a stylish option for holidaying men
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Live the ultimate water adventure Book tickets online now at yaswaterworld.com Open daily from 10AM / +971 2 414 2000
World Traveller
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Relax in the
BIG APPLE Celebrate the Academy Awards this month by picking up a book that inspired an Oscarnominated film…
Philomena
Martin Sixsmith Based on the 2009 investigative book by BBC correspondent Martin Sixsmith, this is a story of one Irishwoman’s 50-year search for her son, who was taken from her at birth and sold. The film of the same name stars Steve Coogan and Dame Judi Dench.
Twelve Years A Slave
A Captain’s Duty
Solomon Northup
Richard Phillips
A true story of betrayal, kidnap and slavery, Twelve Years A Slave documents the memoirs of Solomon Northup, a 33-year-old American man who was kidnapped and sold into slavery. His words were first published in 1853, with director Steve McQueen taking his story to the world in his blistering 2013 film.
Now a major motion picture titled Captain Phillips starring Tom Hanks, this book follows one captain’s fight against his captors, a group of Somali pirates. The book alternates between Phillip’s five-day kidnap ordeal, the plight of his family and the rescue mission being assembled by the US Navy SEALS.
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The recently renovated Loews Regency Hotel in New York is about to be given another boost with the opening of its beauty and wellness centre, The Julien Farel Restore Salon & Spa. Set across 10,000 square feet, the spa will offer 32 custom-designed hair stations, eight spa treatment rooms and private suites when it opens in Midtown Manhattan later this month. Loewshotels.com
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Food fight! Add a gourmet twist to your next adventure by heading to one of the following food-throwing destinations
Italy
Spain
Turkey
England
Battle of the Oranges
La Tomatina
Olive oil wrestling
Custard pie battle
Italy’s largest food fight, the Battle of the Oranges is set to take over the Northern Italian town of Ivrea for another year this March 2-4. And while the festival’s origins are somewhat unclear, its place on Ivrea’s social calendar is pretty evident, with thousands of participants pounding the streets dressed as kings’ men and armed with oranges. In between ducking out the way of this citrus fruit, take in the wondrous sites dotted about Ivrea, from small Gothic churches and Roman theatres to old libraries and bridges.
Thousands of people gather in the Valencian town of Buñol every year for Spain’s world famous La Tomatina festival, a short food fight involving more than 150,000 tomatoes. Taking place on August 27 – the last Wednesday in August each year – the event is limited to around 20,000 revellers, with 5,000 tickets allotted to locals of the town. And while festival rules state that tomatoes must be squashed before being thrown, goggles and a helmet are recommended. Other exciting events riding in on La Tomatino’s coattails include the annual grapethrowing festival, Pobla del Duc, and December’s flour-throwing competition in Alicante, Els Enfarinats.
A food expedition of a different kind is oil wrestling, touted as Turkey’s national sport. While this food staple can be comfortably consumed at most restaurants in the country, it seems lathering yourself in it then jumping into the ring is far more fun. The highlight on the centuries-old sport’s calendar is the annual Oil Wrestling Kirkpinar championship, held every year in Edirne, a city tucked away in the northwestern part of Turkey. Here, thousands of spectators pile into the stadium – a former hunting reserve of the Ottoman sultans – to watch greased up wrestlers battle it out for the Kirkpinar Golden Belt.
You’ll see plenty of pie in the sky near quaint Kent village Coxheath, home to the Charlie Chaplin-inspired World Custard Pie Throwing Championship. On May 31, cake and custard fans from around the world descend on Coxheath for the one-day pie-flinging event, which involves teams of four hurling pies at their opponents in heats. Interested in participating? Then take note: points are awarded for accuracy of aim, technique and costumes. Unfortunately the pies used in the competition are not edible. In fact, the formula used to make the pies easier to fling is top secret.
Stay Located around 50 kilometres from Turin Airport, you’ll find a handful of cute hotels to rest your head in Ivrea. The three-star Hotel Siro is a great choice. Set on the banks of Lake Sirio, visitors can expect spacious rooms, mountain views and excellent food. Alternatively, head back to Turin and take your pick from a variety of hotels.
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Stay Tomatoed-out? Head back to Valencia, a little under 40 kilometres away, and combine your food-throwing antics with a city break. Book a room at Caro Hotel, a swanky establishment promising a memorable experience.
Stay Edirne – located 230 kilometeres to the east of Istanbul Atatürk Airport – is a small city rich in history. And while a little tricky to get to, travellers will find plenty of mid-range hotels at Edirne’s bustling unofficial ‘hotel street’, Maarif Caddesi.
Stay There’s not a great deal to see in Coxheath so instead hop on a bus (the village does not have a train station) and head to Maidstone, where you can catch a direct train to London. The British capital is teeming with hotels for all budgets and itineraries. The only problem is picking one.
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Flavours of Fez Morocco’s culinary capital fuses Fassi and French cuisine – with exciting results
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a heady mix of Berber, Arab, Andalusian, Jewish and French flavours, was born. A cookery class is a great way to explore this cultural melting pot. We sign up for a half-day class at Café Clock (cafeclock. com), a hip hang-out in the heart of the medina owned by Mike Richardson, a former maître d’ at The Ivy in London. “Fassi cooking has lovely combinations of sweet and savoury flavours,” explains head chef Souad Maidja over a glass of ‘Moroccan whisky’ (mint tea made with gunpowder green tea, sprigs of fresh spearmint – and lots of sugar). “Fez is
Fassi cooking has lovely combinations of sweet and savoury flavours
hile seaside Rabat is Morocco’s political capital, medieval Fez can lay claim to being the spiritual, cultural and culinary capital. Quite a legacy to live up to, but the sprawling city, made up of over 9,500 narrow streets peppered with centuries-old souks and ancient mosques, more than delivers. On first appearances, it seems not much has changed since Fes el-Bali, as the medina is officially known, was founded by Sultan Idriss II in the late eighth century. The World Heritage-listed old town is one of the largest car-free urban areas on the planet and retains its medieval layout, with neighbourhoods divided according to trade: leather tanning, metalworking, weaving, and so on. The vibrant souks are much the same, with vendors gathering together in guild-like fashion in the honey souk or butchers’ alley. And it was here that Fassi cuisine,
famous for pastilla, a light flaky pastry filled with pigeon and sweetened with sugar.” Cumin, coriander, and preserved lemons are common ingredients, along with aromatic cinnamon, rosewater and honey. Maidja leads us out into the seemingly unfathomable streets to stock up on fresh produce, deftly sidestepping donkeys and djellaba-clad locals. First stop is the halal butcher, with his bloody wares dangling on display, followed by the fishmonger with the day’s fresh catch. Passing a camel meat butcher, Maidja tells us about Café Clock’s signature camel burger. “We add spices such as coriander, cumin, mint and paprika to the camel mince, as well as dried rose petals,” she explains. “In our kitchen, we say eating camel burgers mean more babies,” she chuckles, before explaining that the petals from the Dades Valley are said to be a powerful aphrodisiac. An hour later, we’re back in the kitchen. Maidja gives us all jobs – chopping, slicing, stirring – and encourages us to taste as we go. She shows us how to make smoky zaalouk (spiced eggplant salad), hearty harira soup with lentils and tomatoes, and deliciously sweet blighat b t’mer (date and pastry rolls). The highlight though is seksou t’faya – fluffy cous cous with caramelised onions, raisins and succulent lamb that falls off the bone. We return to Café Clock the next day to try their burger. Topped with homemade sweet tomato ketchup, the patty is lean, juicy and justifiably famous (but no comment on its aphrodisiacal abilities). The café itself is one of the medina’s most popular oases for locals, expats and tourists alike. Along with fantastic casual fusion food, the funky townhouse has a
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5 of the BEST RESTAURANTS Dar Roumana French chef Vincent Bonnin adds local ingredients, such as pomegranate, dates and chermoula spice mix, to his classical French cooking at this boutique gem. darroumana.com
Riad Idrissy Charming hotelier and talented cook Robert Johnstone serves up local specialities such as mechwi (a whole spit-roast lamb) in this romantic riad’s fragrant garden. riadidrissy.com
MB Restaurant
Upon request, Richardson opens his eclectic holiday home to visitors and his chefs prepare an al fresco feast
There’s not a zellij mosaic in sight at this sleek and stylish restaurant. Classical French fare dominates the menu, attracting a fashionable crowd. maison-blanche.ma
Fez Café Chef Hicham Moufid dishes up Mediterraneaninspired Moroccan cuisine in a delightful garden tended by owner Michel Biehn, himself an acclaimed Provençal cookbook author. jardindesbiehn.com
L’Amandier
roster of live music, films, bellydancing lessons, and cultural workshops in everything from calligraphy to traditional bread baking. We also learn of Richardson’s other venture in the tiny hilltop town of Moulay Idriss, 70kms from Fez. Upon request, the Englishman opens his eclectic holiday home, Dar Akrab (Scorpion House), to visitors and his chefs prepare an al fresco feast overlooking the picturesque whitewashed town. Moulay Idriss also happens to be one of the country’s most important pilgrimage sites. Its namesake, a great-grandson of the Prophet Mohammed, is credited with bringing Islam to Morocco, converting the indigenous Berber tribes and creating the first Arab Muslim dynasty in the eighth century. His tomb is at the heart of the town, and is the focus of the country’s largest moussem (religious festival) during the month before Ramadan. Nearby are the well-preserved ruins of Volubilis. Once
the westernmost outpost of the empire, the Romans abandoned the city around 285, leaving exquisite floor mosaics that rival those of Pompeii. But we’ve come for the food and it doesn’t disappoint. As we gaze down at the tangle of flagstone streets and green-tiled minaret from the breezy terrace, we enjoy spiced lamb kefta kebabs and herbed chicken breast cooked over charcoal on a traditional shawaya (BBQ). It’s served with an array of fresh Moroccan salads, including aubergine marinated in chermoula (a herb and spice mix) with dollops of creamy jben cheese, preserved lemon salad drizzled with honey and cumin dressing, vegetable pastilla rolls with zesty taktouka (tomato and green pepper salad), and street food specialities such as makooda (spiced potato cakes). Dessert includes macaroons and a moist orange-and-almond Sephardic cake that draws on the region’s Jewish influences. Sweet, simple and oh-so-delicious.
Set in a former Arab-Moorish palace turned boutique hotel, this top terrace serves delicate Moroccan salads and meaty mains, with lovely views of the Medina. palaisfaraj.com
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To book one of these offers call dnata on +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com. Terms and conditions apply. On the same site you can also sign up to dnata’s newsletter and receive more offers direct to your inbox.
World Traveller Reader Offers
This month’s selection of blissful breaks to book includes the paradise islands of Bali, Seychelles and the Maldives, plus an old favourite in London... dnatatravel.com Indonesia InterContinental Bali Resort Offer: 3 nights from USD300 per person, or from USD835 per person including airfare. Includes: Stay in a Resort Classic Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers. Valid for stays from: Now til June 30, 2014. Situated within the boundaries of the exclusive neighbourhood of Jimbaran Bay on Bali’s southern coastline, InterContinental Bali Resort embraces 35 acres of tropical landscape. Blessed with an endless stretch of white sandy beachfront as its stunning backdrop, the resort integrates ornamental ponds, a winding lagoon and aesthetic stonework, to offer and submerge you in a true Balinese experience. InterContinental have worked hard to be sensitive towards the surrounding environment, whilst respecting the rich culture of the island, its fine artistry and Hindu heritage. With our current discount it is a great time to experience the property.
InterContinental Bali Resort
Italy
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The Westin Palace Milan Offer: 3 nights from USD450 per person, or from USD1,130 per person including airfare. Includes: Stay in a Classic Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers. Valid for stays from: Now til June 30, 2014* * Blackout dates apply, valid only for Fri/Sat/Sun. The Westin Palace is a true haven within the city of Milan. The team at Westin have done all they can to make you forget the outside world and assist in helping you relax in Check In
Anantara Dhigu Resort & Spa
the serenity of the Westin experience. The location, close to both the key shopping area and the new Expo city, puts the hotel in a great location to explore this city. Inside, the hotel has been designed in keeping with Italian culture, the rooms are comfortable and those with dual aspect have great views across the city to the Duomo. With our fantastic
Maldives
daily and return speedboat transfers. Valid for stays from: Now til April 27, 2014.
Anantara Dhigu Resort & Spa Offer: 4 nights from USD1,595 per person, or from USD2,035 per person including airfare. Includes: Stay in a Sunrise Beach Villa with breakfast
An idyllic tropical island paradise set in the South Male Atoll, just half an hour from Male International Airport, Anantara offers the Maldives resort experience you’ve only dreamt about. Unwind on
reduced rate it makes for a great weekend getaway.
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the original hotels on paradise, re-opened in June 2004. The restored hotel features sweeping thatched roofs and local granite. The open-air lobby, which affords breathtaking views of the Indian Ocean, stands above a stylish bar and library. Founded in 1943, historic Fisherman’s Cove is the Seychelles’ first and most legendary hotel. Over the decades, the resort has gained a reputation for relaxed, understated luxury and friendly, personalised service, providing guests with a peaceful hideaway. It’s truly a place to forget your daily woes.
Thailand Dusit Thani Laguna Phuket Offer: 3 nights from USD245 per person, or from USD775 per person including airfare. Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Lagoon View Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers. Valid for stays from: April 16– October 31, 2014
The Oberol, Dubai
endless white sand beaches, palm-fringed islands and pristine coral reefs. Anantara Resort Maldives offers 68 beachfront villas; all situated on a private stretch of beach, with unique outdoor bathrooms and rain showers. The 38 over-water suites feature private sundecks and open-air infinity-edged bathtubs. When not relaxing on the beach, treat
yourself to an Ayurvedic spa treatment, or lounge in the beachfront infinity pool to lap up the stunning surrounds.
Seychelles Le Méridien Fisherman’s Cove Offer: 4 nights from USD1,090 per person, or from USD2,145 per person including airfare.
Includes: Stay in a Superior Ocean View Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers. Valid for stays from: Now til April 30, 2014.* *Excluding April 15-26. 2014. Nestled in the heart of paradise on the southern tip of Beau Vallon, Le Méridien Fisherman’s Cove is one of
Nestled amidst acres of tropical gardens and caressed by the azure water of the Andaman Sea, the Dusit Thani Laguna Phuket hotel is an idyllic retreat tucked away on the stunning island of Phuket. Arriving at Dusit Thani Laguna Phuket hotel you enter a sanctuary of tranquillity shaded by native coconut palms. Gentle sea breezes waft through the vaulted ceilings of the open-air lobby. The resort’s neo-colonial style incorporates variations on traditional Thai motifs with the bright airy rooms defined by native woods and tiles and decorated with ceramics, antique carvings and textiles. With our offer of a 30% discount, now is a great time to discover the tranquillity of Phuket. 19
UAE The Oberoi, Dubai Offer: 1 night from USD195 per person. Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfast daily, plus complimentary upgrade to the next available room category. Valid for stays from: Now til March 31, 2014.
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This contemporary hotel is located within minutes of The Dubai Mall and Burj Khalifa. The 252 spacious guest rooms and suites have floor-to-ceiling windows and spectacular views of the city’s skyline. Spacious, luxurious and elegantly appointed, the rooms convey a warm and welcoming ambiance. Timber floors, rich fabrics, hand-tufted rugs and specially commissioned artwork further accentuate the elegance of the room. Although a city hotel, here you can treat yourself to luxurious rejuvenation and relaxation in the serenely appointed spa. Holistic therapies drawn from Ayurveda, along with internationally influenced therapies, soften the senses and restore the vital energy within. The outdoor infinity swimming pool is open from sunrise to sunset, and is a soothing place to end a hard day.
Valid for stays from: Now til March 31, 2014. A British icon since 1889, The Savoy has once again taken its place on the world stage after a £100 million restoration. The hotel seamlessly blends elements of the original and the new, while the stunning
English Edwardian and art deco interiors sparkle with timeless elegance and glamour. The 268 guestrooms and suites are the last word in style, luxury and discreet technology with stunning views of London and the River Thames. Adding to the Savoy experience is the fantastic culinary offering, from
Sheraton Dubai Mall of the Emirates Offer: 1 night from USD205 per person. Includes: Stay in a Classic Room with breakfast daily, plus complimentary upgrade to half board (lunch). Valid for stays from: Now til March 31, 2014.
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When you live in Dubai, why travel when you can stay surrounded by all the shopping delights on your doorstep at the Sheraton Dubai Mall of the Emirates? Opened in 2010, the hotel is centrally located to many more attractions – this truly is an easily accessible hotel. The rooms house the famous Sheraton Sweet Sleep beds, so after a long day of shopping you have the perfect place to rest up, while the hotel also boasts some great dining options and a beautiful rooftop spa.
Sheraton Dubai Mall of the Emirates
UK The Savoy, A Fairmont Hotel, London Offer: 3 nights from USD890 per person, or from USD1,630 per person including airfare. Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with English breakfast and return airport transfers. Check In
The Savoy, A Fairmont Hotel, London
Gordon Ramsey to the Thames Foyer for the best and most relaxed afternoon tea in the city. With its enviable location (literally steps away from some of the world’s finest entertainment) and our thirdnight-free offer, you have extra time to enjoy this Grand Dame of a hotel.
World Traveller
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The Magic of Malaysia Experience Asian hospitality at its finest at one of dnata’s partner hotels…
Rob Arrow For the first of his regular columns on trending destinations around the world, dnata’s travel expert Rob Arrow extols the merits of Abu Dhabi’s Yas Island.
The Taaras Beach & Spa Resort
The Taaras Beach & Spa Resort Offer: 3-nights’ Island Retreat Package starting from USD765 per person. Includes: Stay in a Garden Suite with breakfast and dinner daily, return airport transfers, plus day or night snorkeling, island hopping and 75-minute spa treatment.* Valid for stays from: Now til June 14, 2014. The Taaras is a private beach residence located just off the east coast of Malaysia on Redang Island. Accessible by air, the resort provides barefoot luxury with warm Asian hospitality. In Sanskrit, Taaras translates as ‘Star’ or ‘Goddess of the Sea’. The resort offers 191 rooms and suites and for ultimate privacy, guests can opt for the stunning five-bedroom private villa perched on the cliff top. It features a 16-metre infinity pool and personal Villa host throughout the stay. The Chateau Spa & Organic Wellness Resort Offer: 3-nights’ Stress Relief Package from USD1,645 per person. Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with
organic breakfast, lunch and dinner daily,plus return airport transfers. Package includes the following: Health &Stress Management Consultation, 1 x Seaweed Hot Stone Massage, 1 x Stress Relief Massage, 1 x Body Exfoliation - Lavender Sugar Glow, 1 x Relaxing Bath - Aroma Infusion, 1 x Seaweed Peat Ritual Stress Relief Therapy, 1 x Therapeutic Mud in Salt Grotto, 1 x Herbal Bath (Sauna).* Valid for stays from: Now til October 31, 2014. The Chateau is the world’s first organic spa and wellness resort located only 45 minutes’ drive from Kuala Lumpur city centre and 90 minutes from the airport. Inspired by an 18th century castle in Alsace France, this 34,000 m² resort rises majestically amid a lush tropical rainforest. Each of the 121 elegant rooms and suites is tastefully decorated and environmentally friendly with organic bed and bath linens. La Santé, the first European concept spa in Asia, is a sanctuary of healing, offering individual therapies including weight loss, stress relief, pre-and-post natal care and pampering.
*Terms and conditions apply, subject to availability. For further enquiries, please contact luxuryhotels@dnata.com
Often I have driven to Abu Dhabi and seen the futuristic shapes of the famous Yas Viceroy and Ferrari World come into view. However, only recently have I turned off to explore the wonders which lie within that whole area. Whatever the time of the year there is something to delight everyone on Yas Island, from the family looking for the thrills of Yas Waterworld, to speed seekers brave enough to ride Formula Rossa, the world’s fastest rollercoaster at Ferrari World, or drive the famous Yas Marina Circuit. Then there’s the golfer’s paradise, Yas Links, Yas Beach, which has to be one of the UAE’s best-kept secrets for kite surfing and paddleboarding, and myriad relaxing spa and dining experiences to enjoy. All of this possible in this one destination. Meanwhile, the cafés and restaurants now open around the marina include the gourmet delights of Cipriani, the laidback Iris and the music and fine food of Diablito. Best of all, having the option of seven hotels ranging from the sleek five-star Yas Viceroy, with its two rooftop pools, Aromatherapy Associates Spa, and the most divine super king-sized beds, to the fun and relaxed atmosphere in the functional and funky three-star Centro, means you can choose what budget you wish to set aside for this weekend away. Take advantage of our offers (see page 67) to discover Yas Island for yourself.
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Set Seoul Heading to South Korea? Check out the new JW Marriott Dongdaemun Square Seoul boutique hotel, the group’s second hotel in the city. Sprawled across 11 floors, visitors have 155 rooms and 15 suites to choose from, alongside an indoor pool, spa and business centre. Step outside the hotel and you’re in the heart of Dongdaemun’s retail district, home to a variety of shopping malls. Time to loosen those purse strings. marriott.com
DOWN UNDER The 174-room Sheraton Melbourne Hotel swings open its doors at the end of this month. Located in the ‘Paris end’ of the Central Business District, the new property is conveniently close to the Melbourne Cricket Ground, which welcomes a string of hotly contested matches throughout March. How’s that. starwoodhotels.com
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Relax & retail Beijing welcomes its newest hospitality resident this month, in the form of The Waldorf Astoria Beijing. From March 1, visitors to the Chinese capital can check in to this centrally-located hotel, which boasts a range of rooms and suites, all designed to Waldorf ’s world-famous five-star standards. waldorfastoria3.hilton.com
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The hotel boasts opulent interiors reminiscent of 17th-century Versailles
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World Traveller
March // 2014
f you’re itching to live out your James Bond fantasy, there can only be one place. Monte Carlo. This dazzling district in the tiny principality of Monaco oozes imperial grandeur and Hollywood glamour. The majestic Hôtel de Paris MonteCarlo on Place du Casino is synonymous with the birth of Monte Carlo itself. In the mid-19th century, Charles III decided to build a casino and luxurious hotel at Plateau des Spélugues. Overlooking the shimmering Mediterranean, the district would later be re-christened Monte Carlo (‘Mount Charles’) in his honour. Developed by businessman François Blanc, the casino opened in 1863, followed by Hôtel de Paris on the same square in 1864. Boasting opulent interiors reminiscent of 17th-century Versailles, it has welcomed a glittering guest list of high society and Hollywood royalty, from the Aga Khan to Cary Grant. And with unrivalled views of the harbour below, bobbing with multi-million-dollar megayachts, and the annual Grand Prix circuit, the hotel continues to enthrall.
Historic Hotel #9
CROWN JEWEL For 150 years, this belle epoque beauty has been the Riviera’s most exclusive address
It was Blanc’s widow Marie, however, who created one of Hôtel de Paris’ most famous features: a cavernous cellar, hewn by hand some 33 feet below. Today, it houses almost 600,000 bottles of the world’s most prestigious drops. Elsewhere, the ultra-exclusive private dining room is where Prince Rainier and Princess Grace celebrated their 20th wedding anniversary in 1976. The hotel has twice starred alongside 007 – in Never Say Never Again and GoldenEye – and will soon be seen in Grace of Monaco, the blockbuster biopic starring Nicole Kidman. Scenes from the film were reportedly shot on the terrace of Le Côté Jardin, a charming breakfast spot. Prince Albert, the reigning monarch, is sometimes spotted in Le Louis XV, Alain Ducasse’s gilded gastronomic temple awarded three Michelin stars, and the one-starred Le Grill, which features a wall of windows overlooking the Med and roof that retracts to expose the night sky. But when it comes to sheer star power, the Riviera’s most regal residence outshines them all.
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New York World Traveller
Stories
March // 2014
Brooklyn-based acclaimed photographer Guillaume Gaudet takes us on a pictorial tour of his home city, capturing iconic street scenes and day-to-day goings-on.
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1. This was a billboard on Fifth Avenue in Manhattan. The giant blonde provides a striking contrast to the passersby. 2. View of the tip of the iconic Chrysler Building from Mercer Street in SoHo, Manhattan. 3. The was taken at a small store by the Fanelli Cafe on Greene Street in SoHo, Manhattan. 4. Shot on the boardwalk of Coney Island in Brooklyn, these kids are having fun feeding and dodging the swooping seagulls. 5. Workers staring back at me as I take their photograph in SoHo, Manhatten. It looks like the girl on the billboard is doing likewise.
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6. I captured this girl as she stood by the Manhattan Bridge during a snow storm in DUMBO (an acronym for Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass), Brooklyn. 7. Basketball games take place on courts across the city daily, and this one happened on a playground located at the corner of Avenue of the Americas and Minetta Street in the West Village, Manhattan. 8. People dining and ordering takeouts at the popular Corner Deli in SoHo, Manhattan.
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Many of Guillaume’s photographs are available to buy as fine art prints or custom mountings. For full details and to see more of his work, visit guillaumegaudet.com
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World Traveller
March // 2014
I LOVE PARIS... in the springtime
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Café-crèmes at pavement cafés, lazy strolls through blossom-filled parks, and real-feel neighbourhoods spilling out onto the streets... The French capital zings in spring. Local Anna Brooke is your guide
March // 2014
oft March sunlight bursts through the clouds, turning the broad boulevards translucent white. Beside the river Seine, trees’ boughs are feathered with peagreen leaves, and steam drifts from café-crèmes, served outside again after the freeze of winter. I’ve lived these seasonal scenarios for 12 years now and never tire of them. Yes, I know they’re clichés. But sometimes clichés are fulfilling: I adore this city when purple crocuses carpet the Jardin des Tuileries; when children file into boulangeries for Easter eggs after school; and when the linden trees on Place des Vosges are bobbled with snowflake blossom. Spring is one of the best times to visit Paris, and here’s how to make the perfect long weekend of it... If you associate spring with pastel pinks, muted greens and cornflower blues, head to the Left Bank and the 19thcentury Impressionist art at the
Opening page: Eiffel Tower seen from below. This page clockwise from top: People at outdoor cafes on the Place Stravinsky; the Picasso Museum garden; Boulevard St Germain street sign; The interior of the Musee d’Orsay in Paris. Opposite page: the Notre Dame Cathedral.
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Musée d’Orsay (musee-orsay. fr). Which artistic movement better evokes Nature’s springtime brushstrokes? This giant museum contains one of the finest collections in the world. Put up in 1900 as a railway station for the World Fair, the building itself is as much a pleasure to behold as its contents, its arched glass roof flooding the inside with light. On the fifth floor, amid Monet’s pagan-purple lilies and Renoir’s dance scenes, find Louis Welden Hawkins’ lateFrance
World Traveller
March // 2014
It’s a well known fact that the Statue of Liberty in New York was a gift to the people of America from the French, to say thanks for their international support. Something not a lot of people know, however,
is that there are exact (ok, a little bit downsized) replicas to be found in Paris. Three, in fact. One, human-sized, stands in the Jardin du Luxembourg and another, larger replica is near the
Grenelle Bridge on an island in the river Seine. The third statue can be found at the Musée des Arts et Métiers, and was the original model created by the artist Frédéric Auguste Bartholdi.
Impressionist work The Eiffel Tower, as vivid as a photo on a spring afternoon, showing Falguière’s bronze statue and a midnight-blue Eiffel Tower beyond. Then there’s Edouard Manet’s brutally contrasted Le Déjeuner sur l’Herbe (The Luncheon on the Grass). With
its female nudity, it caused mirth and scandal when unveiled in 1863. Revenge is sweet: it’s now considered the departure point for modern art. For your first lunch, settle under the stained-glass ceiling of Les Ministères
(lesministeres.com). It was a meeting point for the Resistance during World War II. Your struggle will be resisting the crème-brûlée after the hand-cut steak tartare, Tabasco-hot and loaded with capers. Add a bottle of cherry-red Gamay and you’ll fit right in, among ruddy-faced politicians and long-lunching editors from nearby publishing houses. Now for a gentle walk, following the Seine east, past snappable monuments. On the left, the Louvre; on the right the Institut de France, with its gilded tea-cup dome, home of the Académie Française; then the Pont des Arts footbridge, barnacled with more padlocks than a punk has pins (the locks are attached by lovers, who throw the keys into the river as a sign of undying love). Once you’ve passed St Michel’s fountain, where a copper-green Archangel wrestles the devil, you’re on Quai St Michel. Ever seen Maximilien Luce’s long-shot painting of Notre Dame from 1901? This was where he must have set up his easel. On certain spring days the light is just as he depicted: butterscotch on the cathedral, silvery violet on the buildings around. As the day begins to fade, you need to make for Notre Dame (notredamedeparis. fr). Gaze up at Violletle-Duc’s stone gargoyles, grimacing at the world. Up there, Quasimodo’s bell - Le Bourdon - still patiently awaits the hunchback’s return. From the Petit Pont bridge, you can contemplate the city on its east-west axis, simultaneously taking in the Seine and the cathedral. Late on a moody spring afternoon it’s pure drama, as clouds pattern the sky in argumentative patches of mauve and grey. Such beauty deserves a celebratory meal: off Boulevard
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Your ready-made spring bouquet is at the top of Rue Monsieur Le Prince. The Jardin du Luxembourg.
France
World Traveller
Opposite page: Luxembourg Palace. This page: Place St. Michel. Next page: Panthéon, Paris
St-Germain, in the Latin Quarter, Terroir Parisien is the affordable bistro of Michelin-starred chef Yannick Alléno (yannick-alleno.com) It’s a simple hybrid (wood cabin/New York loft), where forgotten Parisian dishes, including Bercy whiting, are revived with seasonal produce. In spring, that means purpletinted asparagus in lemony vinaigrette and squeaky morel mushrooms. By the time you’ve scoffed the Puits d’Amour (‘Well of Love’), made from puff pastry with stewed berries and cream, you’ll be ready for bed. Next day, grab late-morning coffee and buttery croissants northeast of the Haut Marais (near République), at Chez Prune. It’s an upbeat zinctabled cafe along the Canal St Martin, frequented by Paris’s northeast Bobos (bourgeoisbohemians). A canal boat or two waits at the tree-shaded lock, where sludgy green water pours through the slippery gates. Nab a terrace table and drink in the street scene: passers-by on Vélibs (Paris’s municipal hire-bikes) and white-haired old ladies carrying daffodils back from the market. Overhung with trees of sticky buds, the Canal St Martin was built by Napoleon in the early 19th century to bring drinking water to the Imperial capital. As industry blossomed, so did the area; but when manufacturing declined in the ‘60s, the area was left decayed and neglected. Ballsy property investors have since turned it around - now it is one of Paris’s hippest districts. Between here, Gare de l’Est and Château d’Eau, you’ll find quirky fashion boutiques, dinky wine cellars and some of the city’s trendiest watering holes, full of pretty people in retro garb, drinking
March // 2014
Chartreuse cocktails on the rocks. It’s where you should spend your entire day. I lose myself in Artazart (artazart.com), a higgledypiggledy bookshop overflowing with deliciously irreverent coffee-table tomes on graphic design and modern art. Another great find is Potemkine (potemkine. fr), a film fan’s heaven, with floor-to-ceiling collections of weird and wonderful movies, in multitudes of languages. Then head to the Centre Commercial (2 Rue de Marseille), where locals buy their denim shirts and cool tapestry boots. This superchic, glass-roofed space is a concept store for fashions made in France, contemporary art, second-hand bikes and funky vintage furniture. Speak to your bank manager first. On a sunny spring day, one of the loveliest idling spots in town is the courtyard of Café A (148 Rue du Faubourg St Martin, 10th), set in the 300-year-old former Recollets convent by Gare de l’Est. It’s circled by aged walls and ancient trees, blossom sprinkling chairs in confetti. Hungry? The modern menu is resolutely Italian. Share a creamy Burrata in golden olive oil, bruschettas of Parma ham and Pecorino, and bowls of cep ravioli with a glass of organic Chianti. Nothing helps digestion like a stroll, so it’s onwards, muffled against fresh breezes, to one of the city’s lesser-known churches, opposite Gare de l’Est. Sandwiched between the car-heavy boulevards of Magenta and Strasbourg, the Gothic Eglise St Laurent (off Rue du Faubourg St Martin) is an essay in 16th-, 17th-and 19th-century styles. Study the comic-strip biblical scenes in blue, red and yellow stained glass. As you skirt the nave, columns intermittently block the light - the sense is of scenes moving, of walking through an eerie celestial zoetrope. After an afternoon exploring the canal and its characterful side streets, start your evening the gastronomic way, with dinner at ‘40s-style bistro Chateaubriand (129 Avenue
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WHERE TO STAY A stone’s throw from the Louvre you’ ll find the Mandarin Oriental Paris, a five-star hotel which combines modern Parisian style with the calmness often associated with the Far East. One block from the ChampsElysées is the classic Hotel Warwick, home to 149 sophisticated rooms and suites.
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Parmentier, 11th), near Goncourt Métro. It’s your chance to try cuisine by one of Paris’s most talked-about chefs, Iñaki Aizpitartre, a selftaught wizz who invents a new set menu daily, based on his mood and seasonal finds. The greeting may be nonchalant, but the terrific food is a taste explosion more mood-lifting than a freak spring heatwave. The plates of prawns in Calvados are memorable. From here, for a night of frissons, it’s an easy walk to Comptoir Général (lecomptoir general.com), a vast, Berlinworthy hang-out in former stables, bedecked with curiosity cabinets of dinosaur bones and African witchcraft fetishes. There’s even a fumoir, set in a tropical greenhouse. As the music drifts, sip your drink on a squidgy sofa under mounted antlers. Then order another. Out with the new and in with the old. Come Sunday, hop on Métro line 4 to Porte de Clignancourt’s Marché aux Puces (Rue des Rosiers, St Ouen) the city’s largest flea market, in the northern suburb of St Ouen. What started in 1870 as a hook-up for ragand-bone men has turned into a sprawl of markets touting Louis XV chairs, ‘20s dresses, psychedelic ‘70s coffee tables... The works. I love the Marché Paul Bert section (85 Rue des Rosiers): seven alleys of stalls piled high with Napoleon III trinkets and Rococo art. France
World Traveller
March // 2014
And for lunch? How about spit-roasted chicken or duck terrine with slices of organic saucisson? It’s all delicious at Ma Cocotte (macocottelespuces.com), a recent creation from designer Philippe Starck. From your high wooden table, admire the maverick’s work: chequered concrete floors and a huge open kitchen that sends savoury steam into the air. Make pudding the chocolate mousse, fluffy as grandma intended. Then, after more pottering, head back on line 4, to Odéon on the Left Bank. Your ready-made spring bouquet is at the top of Rue Monsieur Le Prince. The Jardin du Luxembourg (Rue de Médicis, 6th) flickers with chestnut trees sprouting flowers like giant fluffy caterpillars. Paths are bordered by yellow primroses, pink carnations and deep purple pansies. On a bright, brisk day, the scrape of metal chairs echoes, as folk drag them into mild sunlight for a quiet moment with a book. There’s no separating Paris from these gardens: Hemingway hunted pigeons in them; statues by
I’ve lived these seasonal scenarios for 12 years and never tire of them
Rodin and Zadkine pose in its alleys. It’s a legacy that deserves a toast at the Rostand (6 Place Edmond Rostand, 6th), opposite the park entrance. A gooey cheese-andham omelette makes a magical last supper before your grand finale... Nightly on the hour, for five minutes, the Eiffel Tower sparkles. So leave your table in good time, and head up Rue Soufflot to the foot of the white-domed Panthéon. From here you’ll have an unexpected, uninterrupted view. It’s a glittering display sure to put a spring in your step - until you return next year.
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BUY FOR
Your in-the-know guide to the world’s finest shopping destinations To Buy For
World Traveller
March // 2014
Insider’s Guide
NEW YORK Manhattan’s 10 hottest shops
tart your day in SoHo, fashion capital of the fashion capital. To gird yourself for the multitude of shoppers, you need some sugar. You’re unlikely to secure the wildly popular cronut (half-doughnut, half-croissant) after 6am at Chef Dominique Ansel Bakery (dominiqueansel.com), so try a hazelnut caramelia cake instead. Dress from the top at The Hat Shop (thehatshopnyc.com), where you’ll find straw sun hats as well as extravagant works of art for your bonce. Take a break from the hordes at recently revamped neighbourhood staple McNally Jackson (mcnallyjackson.com), a bookstore and café just east of shopsville, where you can team a buttered scone with a glossy design magazine. Head west into NoLIta, where Dagny + Barstow (dagnyandbarstow.com) sells edgy women’s items and art prints in a brick space that used to be a nightclub - the crossword sweaters by Devastee are the hipsters’ choice du jour. Past Houston, turn onto 8th Street, where you’ll find AC Gears (acgears.com), a cool boutique for the tech-obsessed, stocking everything from toys and
timepieces to candy-coloured headphones. Then press on to Theory (theory.com); its trendy basics aren’t a secret - they’re a favourite of Kate Bosworth and Olivia Wilde - but the pink-lit flagship store is worth a visit for chic tees and soft-as-apuppy knits. Ramp things up at Opening Ceremony (openingceremony.us); the avant-garde boutique functions as the United Nations of fashion, with items from across the globe. Its own-brand stuff is more reasonable, with a line by Chloë Sevigny. You’ve cracked SoHo so move on to the Meatpacking District and Duckie Brown (duckiebrown.com), famous for dressing downtown’s coolest boys - the ones with the shiny bowl cuts or the arty stubble. Be brave and grab a pair of turquoise patent-leather oxfords. After a quick walk among the blooms on the nearby High Line park (thehighline.org), head to the West Village, where New Yorker Marc Jacobs has a monopoly. Sought-after sunglasses and metallic clutches can be found at his Marc by Marc Jacobs women’s collection (marcjacobs.com), across from his bookstore, Bookmarc where US$25 posters and fashion-photography books replace frocks. (There are kids and menswear stores, too.) Finish off your look with something bonkers at the bottom from United Nude (unitednude.com), a shoe haven for architecture addicts where a pair of ankle boots resting on a Mobiuslike glass heel steal the show. If you haven’t spent all your cash, consider splurging on a bespoke item from White Chalk (whitechalknyc. com) in NoLIta. The unisexshop is known for
Splurge on a bespoke item from White Chalk 41
posh suits in crazy colours. Each order takes at least four weeks to make, and they’re not cheap (prices run to $4,000). If you’re feeling daring, order a silk pyjama ensemble and make Oscar Wilde proud. And the latest hot eat? Juni (juninyc.com), where three courses of peanut potatoes, fennel salmon and a seasonal sorbet go down a treat.
March // 2014
World’s Best Shopping Streets
Changle Road, Shanghai 1. DONG LIANG, No.184 Fumin Road
The setting - a 1920s townhouse obscured by London plane trees, just off Changle Road - and sociable staff make Dong Liang feel like an Avon party, albeit with immaculate, highly original fashions on the open rails. The buyers stick to capsule collections by 20 Chinese designers simple, wearable clothes (for him and her) that are devastatingly hip, even by London standards (dongliangchina.com). 2. NOODLE BULL 291 Fumin Road (entrance on Changle Road)
Once you’re ensconced in the cool bamboo and concrete décor, you won’t mind that the dishes here aren’t Shanghainese but Taiwanese. The menu is simple and cheap: p a choice of three noodles and five toppings in capacious bowls, with spicy soups ps and garlicky greens as side options. And all nd it’s al ll MSG-free, no small thing in the land and of E numbers.
3. TOY CITY No.690
5. HANYI No.217-221
With an infant hospital just up the way, you can’t swing a cuddly cat on Changle Road without hitting a children’s shop. Toy City is the best, positively chockers with a luminous assortment of toy soldiers, action figures, plush dolls and Japanese manga. It’s a must-see for kids, collectors or wannabes. Buy: Japan’s second-favourite kitty, Doraemon.
Qipaos, Chinese-style dresses (called cheongsams in Hong Kong), are a dime a dozen at the tourist markets. But if you want a souvenir with a little more pizzazz - a higher slit perhaps - see the master tailor at Hanyi, where you can get measured for a one-off, or take away one of the brilliant-coloured silk versions in store.
4. MIAN HUA TIAN No.564
6. THE THING No.276
Mian Hua Tian’s 100-year-old restored villa is set back behind a shady walled garden, with a sparse wood interior by local architects KUU, making it an attractive respite from the congested Shanghai concrete. Inside, the slouchy, deconstructed fashion from mainly avant-garde European brands is stored discreetly behind floor-to-ceiling cupboard doors. Accessories, shoes and even some of the sumptuous wool coats are unisex (mianhuatian.com).
The eastern stretch of Changle Road gets funkier with each storefront. And if you’re on the petite side (sizes don’t tend to go much larger than medium), you can walk home with fashion bargains from Japan, Korea, Taiwan - anywhere. This Shanghai-born streetwear boutique is dedicated to graphic tees, novelty hats and tops with a twist (thething.cn). 7. CULTURE MATTERS Building 2, No.47
If trendy trainers are your default, you won’t have failed to notice the Shanghainese penchant for local retro Sh h labels. Feiyues or Warriors - both lab b working-class brands dating back to the wo o ‘50s ‘50 0 - sell for upwards of US$8 a pair at this shoebox of a shop near the spaghetti th junction in the centre of town. ju u
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d R le g an h C
World Traveller
March // 2014
WHERE TO STAY The Grand Hyatt Hotel, on Century Avenue in Pudong, has all the amenities you’ d expect from a luxury retreat, including 555 rooms and suites and world-class spa facilities. However, its real genius lies in its location – located on the 53rd to 87th floors of the Jin Mao Tower. Smack in the heart of Shanghai just over the river from Changle Road, the Grand Hyatt is the perfect place to drop off your bags and grab a meal before heading back out for another round of shopping. Book at dnatatravel.com
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To Buy For
World Traveller
March // 2014
Insider’s Guide
t’s not strictly shopping, but it’s the only retail on offer when you’re wide-eyed with jet lag at 4am: Tsukiji (5-2-1 Tsukiji, Chuo-ku), the world’s biggest fish market, is a maze of tentacles and unidentifiable sealife, and best viewed before sunrise (arrive by 4am for the tuna auction). Fuel up for the day with an unbeatably fresh sushi breakfast at one of the small restaurants on the market fringes. Nearby you’ll find the bright lights of Ginza, home to department stores and elegant hat-and-handbag grannies. The avant-garde Dover Street Market Ginza (ginza.doverstreetmarket. com) is home to edgy art installations and a vending machine selling T-shirts. Paper isn’t usually the most exciting of purchases, unless you’re buying it at Itoya (ito-ya.co.jp), a temple to stationery, from daintily decorated diaries to origami. Next stop: Omotesando. Just up from Chanel, there’s an unmissable neon blot on this chic Zelkova-tree-lined landscape: Kiddy Land (kiddyland.co.jp) is a multistorey stash of robots, fluffy animals, stickers, toy trains and furry Hello Kitty boots. A 10-minute walk away is street-fashion motherlode Harajuku. Too old for over-the-knee socks? Ragtag (ragtag. jp/english) sells grown-up secondhand designer gear on hip Cat Street. Meanwhile, you could lose entire
TOKYO 10 one-off wonders
Nakameguro has edgy boutiques and a cherry treelined canal
holidays in Shibuya’s epic Tokyu Hands (tokyu-hands.co.jp/en). Not far from the famous scramble crossing, umpteen floors of hardware hold all the worldly goods you can think of, plus plenty you never knew existed (stick-on facial hair and sushishaped erasers). A short hop from Shibuya is Nakameguro, a residential district with edgy boutiques and a cherry treelined canal. Here, riverside Cow Books (cowbooks.jp) stocks out-of-print design and art books Final stop? Head by train to Asakusa and peruse an array of kitsch souvenirs in Nakamise market, which lines the path to the entrance of the Senso-ji temple.
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World’s Best Shopping Streets
Corso Como, Milan 1. FELTRINELLI RED Piazza Gae Aulenti
This combination bookshop and tapasstyle ristorante sells everything from local literature and cool comics to hand-printed stationery and foodie souvenirs, including Piedmontese wines and Tuscan olive oil. Tucked into the base of one of the city’s newest skyscrapers in the square at the top of Corso Como, Feltrinelli RED is an oasis that lives up to its acronym ‘Read, Eat, Dream’. (www.lafeltrinelli.it). 2. NAUGHTY DOG No.11
The first flagship store for this glitzy, Italian-designed womenswear brand opened last summer, and they couldn’t have selected a hipper location. Against the shop’s shiny white backdrop, designers Simona Guarraci and Laura Pizzi’s islandinspired (think wild-animal prints, fringed necklines) dresses and faux furs are imminently eye-catching (naughtydog.it). 3. CORSO COMO 10 No.10
In 1991, the ex-Vogue fashion editor Carla Sozzani opened this quirky lifestyle store in a former garage. Today, Corso Como 10 is a place of designer pilgrimage. Hit the fashion, jewellery and homeware boutique (for an Azzedine Alaia python-scale dress, or perhaps a neon ‘80s-style Memphis lamp). Or try the photography-heavy bookshop, art gallery and café/restaurant (10corsocomo.com). 4. HIGH TECH Piazza XXV Aprile 12 46
This treasure trove of Italian and international design sprawls over a labyrinth of late 19th century buildings; part is housed inside what used to be the Milanese newspaper Corriere della Sera’s ancient ink factory. Each room is themed by product, from perfumes to pet accessories. Seek out the knitwear, furnishings, handcrafted candles, kitchen gadgets and leather-bound journals (cargomilano.it). To Buy For
5. PANINO GIUSTO No.125 Garibaldi
Here, Corso Como has merged into equally glamorous Corso Garibaldi, and it’s time for a pitstop at Panino Giusto, one of the city’s oldest paninoteche he (sandwich (sa sand ndwi wich ch vendors). Business folk, students nts and nt and shoppers crowd simple wooden n tables tab able less or hover at the long polished bar baa r for for one on of dozens of creative sandwich h ccombos, ombo om bos, s, all served up on home-made bread reead d (paninogiusto.it). 6. ROSSIGNOLI No.71
Garibaldi Italians make the most st soughtsou ough ghtt after cycles, and this family-run n bicycle bicy bi cycl clee shop has been rolling on since 1900. 900. 90 0. Its Itss custom-made two-wheelers are still sti till ll the t he city’s chicest, as are the leather panniers, pan anni nier ers, hand-designed helmets and all-in-one n-o -one ne GPS-cardio watches. Can’t wait too tr tryy ou out your new gear? Rossignoli also rents ents t ccity ityy it bikes by the day. 7. ...IT! AND MORE No.2 Via Anfiteatro
Fashionistas have been flocking to o th this h is petite boutique on the corner of Corso o so or Garibaldi since it opened in late 2012. 0122 . Owners and longtime friends Chiara, ara, Sara Saa ra and Valentina purvey their own line ne of colourful cashmere cardigans and M Made adee in ad Italy leather handbags, as well as a sma small mall ll selection by international labels, such ch as Chipie trainers and Dr Denim skinny ny jeans (itandmore.it).
World Traveller
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March // 2014
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o WHERE TO STAY Located in Milan’s fashion district, the Quadrilatero della Moda, the 95-room Armani Hotel Milano is every inch as polished as the label itself. From the sizeable rooms and spectacular service to the 1,000-square metre spa and onsite restaurants, a night here will leave you feeling relaxed and ready to conquer this stylish city. If you’re flying into Milan via Dubai, check out its sister property, the Armani Hotel Dubai: equally chic and deserving of a visit. Book at dnatatravel.com
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LONDON
10 not-on-the-high-street shops
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To Buy For
World Traveller
March // 2014
Insider’s Guide
t’s impossible to pick between London’s top two museum stores, so if you’re into ergonomic watering cans and tablecloths you can doodle on, hit the Design Museum Shop (designmuseumshop. org). Or, if you’d rather snaffle some tribal jewellery and coffee-table tomes, you need the V&A Shop (vandashop.com). You could even look round the museums afterwards. Kate Moss, Harrison Ford and James Bond have all worn biker jackets made by General Leather Company (generalleather.co.uk). The big designers use these guys for their leather and shearling items. You can take a picture of your dream jacket and they’ll make it better than the original, for less. Just down the road lies London’s least likely chain, Daunt Books (dauntbooks. co.uk). This branch (there are five other outposts in London) looks like a oneoff, with oak shelves, parquet floor and staff who’ll direct you towards your next favourite read. For a bag of something sweet to devour alongside your new novel, head to Hope and Greenwood in the centre of town (hopeandgreenwood. co.uk), where nostalgic treats such as sour plums come in stripy seaside packaging. Not far from here, you’ll see local hipsters browsing the trendy bike gear at the new Rapha Cycle Club (rapha.cc), which sells the Italian brand’s top-of-the-range kit. Now, head east. En route, stop off at the Borough Market splinter-group stalls on Maltby Street (Bermondsey; Saturdays). There’s less choice than at Borough, but it’s quieter - so you can pick at juniper smoked salmon without getting elbowed. There are lots of niche homeware shops in London, but the place you might actually buy something from is emerald-tiled Labour and Wait (labourandwait. co.uk), purveyor of elegant hardware. Nearby are your one-stop shops if you’ve money to burn: The Goodhood Store and The Goodhood Workshop. The former flaunts unusual labels specialising in pricey East London grunge, and the latter sexy homeware such as bowls carved from beech and dipped in neon plastic. But your coolest outfit is waiting at appointmentonly LN-CC in hip Dalston (ln-cc.com). With access via an angular wooden tunnel and clothes that are practically framed, it feels more like an art installation. It’s not cheap, so save spare change for a delicious fried-chicken sandwich across the road at busy Birthdays (birthdaysdalston.com).
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To Buy For
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Just a stone’s throw from the Louvre in one direction and Place de la Concorde in the other, you can’t beat The Westin Paris when it comes to location. Boasting magnificent city views, the rooms and suites feature contemporary décor with period details such as panelling and fireplaces – and seriously comfortable beds. When you’ve had enough sightseeing, you can enjoy fine French cuisine in the stunning courtyard restaurant and then indulge in a treatment at the Six Senses spa. Book at dnatatravel.com
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WHERE TO STAY
World Traveller
March // 2014
World’s Best Shopping Streets
Rue des Martyrs, Paris 1. SPREE 16 Rue la Vieuville
Concept stores are usually snooty, but Spree is as friendly as it is discerningly curated, with great photography books and design, as well as men’s and women’s fashion by Kenzo, Acne, Isabel Marant and Helmut Lang. Just off the top of Rue des Martyrs, before you come to Place des Abbesses, it’s fun for a swift fashion fix, all on one floor (spree.fr). 2. LIBRAIRIE VENDREDI No.67
This very cerebral Parisian bookstore opens from noon, Tuesday to Saturday, so its owners - who stock only books that they like themselves, and chat knowledgeably with their customers - can spend the mornings reading. There are always rarities to discover here, with the poetry shelves particularly rewarding. 3. PASCAL BEILLEVAIRE No.48
Previously known as La Maison du Fromage, this cheese shop was sold several years ago to the high-quality chain Beillevaire. It stocks cheeses from across
France, as well as raw-milk products from theBeillevaire family’s farm in the Vendée, including yoghurt, cream and fabulous butter - the beurre cru baratté à l’ancienne, with its crunchy salt crystals, is a cult product. 4. ARNAUD DELMONTEL No.39
A top-drawer bakery with four branches across Paris. This one, on the corner of Rue de Navarin, always has a patient queue of people waiting to buy awardwinning baguettes, delightful macarons (bergamot-hazelnut, salted caramel, honey, pistachio), classic treats such as Paris-Brest cakes and palmier biscuits. And look out for seasonal inventions, such as the tropical Christmas log (arnauddelmontel.com). 5. LES PAPILLES GOURMANDES No.26
Superb charcuterie from all over France, with a particularly good selection from the southwest, greets you as you enter this fine grocery-cum-deli. At the rear, you can browse bottled and tinned regional specialities of the highest order: fish soup,
cassoulet, duck confit, tapenade, aubergine caviar. The staff are knowledgeable, and will offer slivers of cured meats and cheeses for you to try before you buy. 6. SEBASTIEN GAUDARD No.22
Formerly the top pastry chef at luxury grocer’s Fauchon, where he trained under Pierre Hermé, Sébastien Gaudard took over this venerable patisserie last year. He’s decorated it in exquisite doll’s-house style as a showcase for his impeccable cakes, tarts, biscuits, chocolates, old-fashioned sweets (bonbons, dragées), jams, teas and ice creams (sebastiengaudard.fr). 7. LA CHAMBRE AUX CONFITURES No.9
This new-generation jam-maker opened two years ago, to sell Lise Bienaimé’s smallbatch, highly seasonal fruit preserves - six strawberry recipes, four marmalades - as well as real chocolate spread, jellies to serve with cheese, and all the wherewithal for preserving fruit yourself. The narrow boutique is as neat as a pin, its curving interior stacked prett prettily with fruity jars (lachambreauxconfitures.com). confitures.c
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Iconic
CA NA DA
Located in Alberta, Banff is Canada’s oldest National Park. Lake Louise is the park’s crown jewel, a 2.5km long, 90m deep hamlet which you can paddle in during the summer months or skate on in the winter. The snow-topped peaks which surround Louise offer stunning views of the entire valley – a gorgeous reward for the testing climb up.
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Ice hockey is Canada’s national sport, and The Toronto Maple Leafs use the iconic symbol of Canada as their logo. Star Leafs players include Phil Kessel and Connor Brown, and they have some famous fans, too – astronaut Chris Hadfield even wore a Leafs shirt under his spacesuit when he returned to earth from the I.S.S in 2013.
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Dominating the Toronto skyline, the CN Tower was the tallest building in the world until Dubai’s Burj Khalifa took the crown in 2007. The tower’s famous 360 restaurant slowly revolves, giving you a dizzyingly complete view of the entire city. With worldclass cuisine, it’s not to be missed – or, once you’ve visited, easily forgotten.
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Aurora Borealis (commonly known as the Northern Lights,) are most likely to be tracked down in the Northern areas of Canada like Manitoba. This aweinspiring display of light and colour dancing across the sky will leave you breathless. The Lights are visible in Manitoba for 300 nights of the year: great news for nature lovers.
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Photography supplied by: Corbis / Arabian Eye
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Adam Karlin tours Luzon, the largest island in the Philippines, and discovers a land of riches
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LUZON The Plot Philippines
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Opening page: Taal Lake and volcano, Luzon. This page: An island beach resort. Opposite page from top: Mayon Volcano from Legazpi; Hammocks and lifeguard stand at a beach resort.
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he word ‘diversity’ gets tossed around a bit when the Philippines are described, which makes sense when you consider that the nation is made up of more than 7,000 islands. Yet even within that vast archipelago, there are individual islands that contain a nation’s worth of diversity on their own. Nowhere exemplifies this phenomenon like Luzon: the largest island in the Philippines, and the fourth most-populous island in the world (after Java, Honshu in Japan, and Britain). Topping the north end of the nation, Luzon defies easy categorisation, be it by geography, linguistics, culture or politics. It is emphatically Asian, yet the vast majority of people are Catholic - and the varied cuisine across the island reflects Spanish and American flavours. Travellers taking advantage of Emirates’ recently launched flights from Dubai to Clark International Airport in Luzon are likely at least to pass through Manila. That’s not such a bad thing; as chaotic, congested and smoky as it gets, the capital and its surrounding sprawl and suburbs contains the country’s best nightlife, a great diversity of food, and excellent shopping in upmarket areas such as Makati and Quezon City. Manila is also the best location to learn about the nation’s remarkable history; Intramuros - the old city, within the Spanish-built walls - resonates with intrigue and tragedy. People say that the Philippines spent 400 years in a convent and 50 in Hollywood, a reference to the twin colonial dominions of Spain and the US. You get a real sense of this phenomenon once you enter Luzon’s towns and villages, where life revolves around two institutions: the local church and the karaoke bar. Filipino street culture is infectious, from the sound of Bruno Mars’ music roaring out of a pub to the rainbow flash of a passing jeepney - the local
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Luzon’s south-east corner is a crooked arm of bays, inlets, jungle and beaches
public transportation option. It is possible to combine these experiences in Manila with Jeepney Tours (jeepneytours. com); the ‘bus’ comes complete with its own karaoke machine on tours costing from around (US$70). The rainy Zambales coast, west of Manila, could put one in mind of a tropical Cornwall, with the addition of jungle. Dark, looming mountains hem vividly green fields and tiny farming and fishing villages abut stretches of sand and small family-run resorts. The northwest coast runs from San Fernando, a bustling beach town that boasts consistent surfing breaks, to the deep blue waters and sunny sands of Pagudpud. As you cross into the northeast coast of Luzon, the land gets wild and sparsely populated. The beautiful Cordillera region is studded with rice terraces. The cool air is a welcome break from the humidity of the plains, and trekking and backpacking opportunities abound. Luzon’s south-east corner is a crooked arm of bays, inlets, jungle and beaches. The university town of Naga, serves as a good base for
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further exploration. You can hike under lonely limestone cliffs in the remote Caramoan Peninsula, or dive among the whale sharks on the southern coast at Donsol. The eighth wonder of the world is the nickname Filipinos give the rice terraces of the mountains of North Luzon. Here are the dry details: they are 2,000 years old and their irrigation systems are so blessedly clever they haven’t been significantly altered during the ensuing two millennia. The rice terraces deserve their hyperbole: they are perhaps the most beautiful example of landscaping in the world. It’s impossible to convey how grand in scale the sculpted mountains are without heading to the Cordillera yourself. If you do, the easiest town in which to base yourself is Banaue. Pagudpud sits tucked away in the far north-west corner of Luzon, but it’s worth the daylong bus ride from Manila or the Clark area. This is a buttery
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Luzon’s highest peak is the imposing Mount Pulag, with an elevation of 2,930 metres making it some 1/3rd of the size of Everest. Due to near-annual precipitation near the summit, Pulag has one of the most fascinating biodiversities
in the Philippines. Giant bushytailed cloud rats, Philippine deer
The eighth wonder of the world is the nickname Filipinos give the rice terraces of the mountains of North Luzon
and the long-haired fruit bat all make their home here. The peak can be hiked, and the grassland summit pushes through the cloud line – an awe-inspiring reward for making it to the top. Remember to charge your camera.
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Opposite page from top left: View of Tagaytay; Saud beach near Pagudpud; Snorkeling near the coast. This page: Rice terraces in Banaue. Next page: Scenic coastal view.
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The rice terraces are perhaps the most beautiful example of landscaping in the world
WHERE TO STAY If Manila is your starting point then follow in the footsteps of Ernest Hemingway and John F. Kennedy and head to Manila Bay where you’ ll find the five-star Manila Hotel, the oldest premiere hotel in the Philippines built in 1909. Before heading to your coastal spot of choice, capture Manila’s city life by booking a room at Raffles Makati – as spectacular as its sister property in Singapore.
Text by: Adam Karlin Photography supplied by: Corbis
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spread of sand fronting a royal blue bay that’s pulled right off a computer screensaver. Relax, swim or bicycle around - rental bicycles are everywhere. Almost every post-colonial South-east Asian nation flaunts a preserved town that blends European charm with tropical lassitude and attitude, and Vigan is the Philippines’ version. While the preserved area is small, it’s adorable: cobblestone streets are stuffed with shops selling crafts, and verandas are shaded by windows paned with capiz shells (a type of oyster). Vigan’s homes are distinctive; originally built by the Spanish, they were subsequently remodelled by Chinese merchants. The resulting hybrid architecture - wide plazas, sloping roofs and dark wood - is strikingly attractive. One of the better examples is the old home of former president Elpidio Quirino, the Syquia Mansion, a lovingly preserved (if dusty) remnant of Old Vigan, located at the corner of Salcedo and Quirino Blvd. Just north of the provincial capital of San Fernando, San Juan and the neighbouring barangay (village) of Urbiztondo are surfers’ paradises, of a sort. You’re not getting Tahiti-sized waves here; these two towns are where beginners learn to board. The waves are gentle, consistent and the sea bottom is sandy. The only issue: the English-language levels of instructors runs from fluent to woefully lacking. A good place to start is Sebay Surf Central (sebaysurfcentral.com) or Little Surfmaid (littlesurfmaidresort. com).
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Concierge Inside Information
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Starry nights While Hollywood hums with Oscars buzz, you can live like a star yourself at The Peninsula Beverly Hills. To celebrate the centenary of the ultra-exclusive district, the luxury hotel has unveiled a celeb-
inspired suite – and thrown in a “scrub & spray-tan” treatment to boot. Go the whole hog with a Hollywood-style photo shoot (complete with stylist, borrowed jewels and celebrity snapper), then put
head concierge James Little to the test with a few diva demands: he prides himself on his ability to bag a table at the hottest restaurants in town. Welcome to the A-list. peninsula.com
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Atlantis The Palm, Dubai
Something for the Weekend
YAS YOU CAN Enjoy the wonders of Abu Dhabi’s Yas Island by taking up one of these great offers… Crowne Plaza Yas Island Offer: 1 night from AED476 per person. Includes: Stay in Superior Room with daily breakfast and one Yas Park Ticket (either Ferrari World Abu Dhabi or Yas Waterworld) per person, per night. Valid for stays from: Now til April 30, 2014. (supplement during Easter will be applied) Radisson Blu Yas Island, Abu Dhabi Offer: 1 night from AED250 per person. Includes: Complimentary upgrade to Superior Room with breakfast daily, plus kids stay free. Valid for stays from: Now til April 30, 2014. Yas Viceroy Abu Dhabi Offer: 1 night from AED395 per person. Includes: Stay in Deluxe Room with breakfast daily. Valid for stays from: Now til April 12, 2014. To book, call dnata on +971 316 6666.
Concierge
Just what do I do first at a place like Atlantis? Tough one, we know, but we’d suggest heading straight to Aquaventure to make a splash at its myriad chutes and slides. Sliding through the shark-filled lagoon is one of those must-dos in Dubai, so what better way to start your weekend?
Indeed. That will no doubt work up an appetite, so where do you suggest for lunch? Pizza is always sure to sate a roaring appetite and at Ronda Locatelli you can enjoy slice after slice of authentic, handmade pizza that hits the spot every time. Another good spot is La Brasserie, the décor of which puts you in mind of Paris. Here you can enjoy artisan breads, full-flavour cheeses and the like, being sure to save room for one of their delectable pastries.
Nice. So how about dinner? That would be Seafire. Yes, Nobu, Ossiano are destination restaurants hard to ignore, but at Seafire you’re guaranteed the best steak in Dubai. Our tip is to eschew the Wagyu and other suitably expensive cuts in favour of Atlantis’ own beef, which is best of all and lighter on the wallet to boot.
So which room should I book? Stay in an Imperial Club Room and you’ll get extra benefits worth an extra Dhs3,000 per day. Such benefits include a full, hot breakfast, all day snacks, afternoon tea and pre-dinner cocktails and canapés. Then there’s 2 for 1 on selected treatments at the stunning ShuiQi Spa.
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CREATIVE
STAY
Hotels these days house art collections worthy of their own museum space. WT takes a look at the UAE’s most impressive artfilled hotels, just in time for Art Dubai
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Le Royal Meridien Abu Dhabi
Rosewood Abu Dhabi
Using the entrance as an exhibition space, visitors to Le Royal Meridien Abu Dhabi will find a hand-picked collection of high-impact contemporary art installations when they arrive at the Le Meridien HUB, the hotel’s interpretation of a traditional lobby. The artwork includes two intriguing metallic sculptures and an origami model made of old Abu Dhabi maps. Both pieces have been created by local artists and members of the LM100 – a group of international creatives who transform the guest experience at Le Royal Meridien hotels. leroyalmeridienabudhabi.com
From the moment you step inside the Rosewood Abu Dhabi, art becomes very much part of the hotel experience. Using the property as a blank canvas, curator Nancy Sweeney has strategically placed a 271-piece art collection at various points in the hotel – in the lobby you’ll find royal portraits and mixed media pieces; up on the first floor there’s digital prints and drawings; and in the spa Katina Huston’s ink on mylar adorn the walls. The hotel, too, has partnered with Abu Dhabi Art Hub to host an artist corner that changes every month. Watch this space. rosewoodhotels.com
Artistic stay: LM100 and other artistic partners have introduced various creative concepts in the 202 guest rooms and suites here – such as the limited edition room key, an exclusive scent (created by Le Labo’s Fabrice Penot and Eddie Roschi), and a unique 24-hour music playlist.
Artistic stay: Book the hotel’s Rosewood or Royal Suite. Around 46 pieces of art can be found in the two suites, which have been tastefully designed to reflect local culture and Arabian luxury.
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Noon Art Boutique Hotel Apartments
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Jumeirah Creekside Hotel
From Gate Village and Al Quoz to the Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood, Dubai is chockfull with galleries. After a hard day’s gallery trawling, book a table at one of these stylish restaurants… Rang Mahal by Atul Kochhar Michelin-starred chef Atul Kochhar has brought his culinary skills to the JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai.
Local art is very much the focal point at Dubai’s newest hotel apartments, which opened its doors last month. Three artists were tasked with designing the theme for the property’s suites, of which there are 45 – 15 one-bedroom, 25 two-bedroom and five three-bedroom. Artist Khaled ben Slimane combined fire, earth, water and air with ascension when designing his appointed rooms, while Ali Hassa’s designs centered around the Arabic letter noon, or ‘N’. The third artist in the project, Dr. Najat Meky, uses figures to illustrate his designs, which have been carved beautifully into the furnishings and materials. noonhotel. com Artistic stay: Book one of the Ali Hassa-designed suites. From the light fixtures and table stands to the breakfast bar and coffee table, his artistic touch has been subtly peppered around the room.
Dotted about the hotel like clues in a treasure hunt, visitors to Jumeirah Creekside Hotel will have as many as 482 works by 51 artists to relish. The collection, which covers everything from painting and sculpture to mixed media and video, can be seen in every corner of the hotel. From the contemporary lobby area to the rooms and suites, some of the Middle East’s biggest names are showcased here: Lateefa Bint Maktoum, Tala Madani, Abdulnasser Gharem and Halim Al Karim. jumeirah.com Artistic stay: No matter what room you book at this five-star hotel, you’re sure to catch a glimpse of its art collection. Failing that, the striking colour palette used throughout the 292 rooms and suites will brighten your stay.
Toko You’ll find this award-winning Australian restaurant in Vida Downtown Hotel, one of Dubai’s newest hospitality spots.
Gaucho, DIFC Quite an institution in steak circles, Gaucho is the ideal place for dinner postgallery trawl around Gate Village.
Social Head to the Waldorf Astoria and you’ll find Social, a restaurant headed up by threeMichelin starred chef Heinz Beck.
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1. The Plaza, New York, USA Opened in 1890, The Plaza was a favourite haunt of F. Scott Fitzgerald and his wife Zelda, with the author using the sumptuously appointed hotel as a setting in his classic 1920s novel, The Great Gatsby. His fondness for this grandest of all Fifth Avenue hotels was so great that Ernest Hemingway once advised him “to give his liver to Princeton and his heart to The Plaza”.
Novel digs
SIX of the BEST…
Literary hotels
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Unveiled last year and designed by Catherine Martin, director Baz Luhrmann’s creative partner-in-crime, the Fitzgerald Suite features dramatic art deco flourishes and period furniture alongside quirky touches like gramophone-shaped iPad speakers and a jazz ageinspired mini-bar. theplazany. com
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2. L’Hotel, Paris, France Oscar Wilde took up residence at the end of the 19th century in what was then Hotel d’Alsace on the Left Bank. The Irish writer and poet, disgraced and penniless after his 1895 trial for homosexuality, lived here until his death in 1900. Famous for his witticisms, he quipped on his deathbed: “My wallpaper and I are fighting a duel to the death. One or the other of us has to go.”
Novel digs True Oscar aficionados should stay in his old room, number 16. Decadently decorated with an emerald green phoenix fresco, chandeliers and antique rosewood furniture, the walls are lined with the writer’s (unpaid) hotel bills and his letters to the manager disputing them. l-hotel.com
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4. The Balmoral, Edinburgh, Scotland Despite living in the city, author JK Rowling checked into room 552 of The Balmoral hotel in 2007 to finish her final novel in the best-selling boy wizard series, Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows. Since then, loyal – and loaded – Harry Potter fans have made a pilgrimage to this glorious five-star hotel, with
3. Old Cataract Hotel, Aswan, Egypt Built in 1899 on the banks of the Nile, this five-star Victorian palace is where famed English author Agatha Christie was inspired to write her 1937 mystery novel, Death on the Nile. Set on a Nile paddleboat, scenes from the 1978 film, starring Peter Ustinov as legendary detective Hercule Poirot, were also shot here. Sadly today, guest numbers
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have plummeted amid the protracted political chaos.
Novel digs The hotel reopened in 2011 following a stunning, three-year US$100-million renovation. The lavish Agatha Christie suite has retained its colonial charm, with high ceilings, plush Persian carpets and large balcony overlooking the famous waterway dotted with feluccas. sofitel.com
its majestic clock tower and Michelin-starred restaurant, near Edinburgh Castle.
Novel digs Now renamed the JK Rowling Suite, the elegant, 180sq ft room includes the writing desk used by the author, brass owl doorknocker, and a marble bust of Hermes, the Greek god of travel, signed by Rowling herself. roccofortehotels.com
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5. Pera Palace Hotel Jumeirah, Istanbul, Turkey Overlooking the magnificent Golden Horn, Pera Palace was popular with Orient Express passengers when the hotel opened in the late 19th century (the globetrotting Miss Christie also stayed here). In the 1920s, writer Ernest Hemingway, then a young war reporter, checked in and drank at the hotel’s Orient Bar. He later name-checked the grand hotel in his short story, The Snows of Kilimanjaro.
Novel digs Take your pick from one of five suites named in honour of the prolific American author, all decorated in jade blue, to reflect his love of the sea, and earth brown, for his love for cigars. jumeirah.com
6. Hazlitt’s Hotel, London, England This boutique hotel in the heart of Soho takes its name from William Hazlitt, the 18thcentury essayist who lived there. While not the most famous of literary figures, these three adjoining Georgian townhouses ooze bookish charm, from the rooms named after famous writers (or women Hazlitt seduced here, according to Bill Bryson) to the well-stocked library. Truly one of London’s best-kept secrets.
Novel digs Go for the Jonathan Swift room, named after the writer of Gulliver’s Travels. The décor is characterful and authentic, with period furniture, heavy damask curtains, and freestanding bathtub. A beautiful old writing desk and bookshelf lend a further literary feel. hazlittshotel.com 73
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Music fans, film buffs and techheads should make tracks to Austin, Texas for South By Southwest (SXSW). The 10day extravaganza includes one of the USA’s premier film festivals, a technology conference for creative types, and over 1,700 live music acts.
Europe’s wildest spring party kicks off in Valencia, Spain. Las Fallas is a five-day fiesta where 15-metrehigh papier-mâché figures (fallas) are displayed on every street corner, before going up in flames on March 19. Expect street parties, parades and lots of pyrotechnics.
The F1 season continues to roar into cities around the world this month, starting with Australia on March 16 and Malaysia on March 30. Moving into next month, don’t miss the Bahrain Grand Prix, taking place April 4-6 at the Bahrain International Circuit. bahraingp.com
Known as the Festival of Colours, Holi is an annual celebration that sees people take to the streets of northern India and Nepal to throw colourful gulal (powder) all over each other to welcome in spring. The result? A raucous rainbow that is incredibly photogenic.
Feed body, mind and soul at the Bali Spirit Festival, an annual celebration of yoga, dance and music in Ubud. The five-day line-up includes wellbeing workshops by day and world music concerts by night, so you’ll leave feeling rejuvenated rather than wrecked.
Saddle up for the Dubai World Cup, the world’s richest horse race and one of the Emirates’ biggest sporting and social events. There will be plenty of spectacular fashions, fillies and fireworks on show, as well as a postrace concert.
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Graphic language
Stockholm PERCENTAGE OF GREEN SPACES IN DIFFERENT CITIES (%)
The Stockholm archipelago has 30,000 pine-clad islands and skerries. Islandhopping by ferry is a popular pastime.
Vienna (51%)
London (38%)
New York (14%)
Paris (9%)
Late author Stieg Larsson’s bestselling Millennium trilogy was set in the city. Fans can do a guided tour of locations mentioned in the crime novels.
Stockholm (30%)
Östermalm
Hässelby-Vällingby Hasselby-Vallingby Kungs-holmen Bromma
Skarpnäck Hägersten
Due to its
NORTHERN LATITUDE
59°20 of
THE CITY ENJOYS
18 HOURS O F DAY L I G H T
in
MIDSUMMER
“ ”
The Vasa Museum houses a 69-metr-long Viking warship, rescued and preserved after sinking in Stockholm harbour in 1628. It attracts over 1.2 million visitors a year.
“Stockholm‘s got everything New York or London has but without all the people and traffic. It’s also become a very creative city, not only for music but also for fashion and computer games.” BJORN ULVAEUS
( ABBA singer and songwriter )
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Discover Phnom Penh Once just a stopover on the way to Angkor Wat, Cambodia’s riverside capital has come into its own
Considered the loveliest of the French-built colonial cities of Indochina, Phnom Penh tends to be defined by its more recent Communist past. While few remain unaffected by its tragic history – the Khmer Rouge embarked on a ruthless genocide from 1975 until 1979 – the city is slowly regaining its flair. Those who linger longer than a couple of days will find an increasingly cosmopolitan city that remains a bargain for travellers. It may be the capital, but Phnom Penh is a compact city criss-crossed by tree-lined boulevards and dotted with old colonial villas. The ‘Pearl of Asia’ sits at the junction of the Mekong, Bassac and Tonlé Sap rivers, and much of the action is centred along the riverside boardwalk Sisowath Quay. The lively, three kilometrelong strip is lined with hotels, bars, restaurants and shops and is a great place for a morning stroll. Come 5pm, it will be packed with locals who come to promenade and people watch. The city’s key sights are nearby. Just one block to the west lies the Royal Palace. The King of Cambodia still lives here, but much of the palace is open to the public. Highlights include the impressive throne room, topped by a much-photographed four-faced tower, and the Silver Pagoda with its splendid 17th-century emerald Buddha. A block north, the terracotta-tiled National Museum, with four galleries set around a leafy courtyard, is well worth a visit. It houses a rich collection of Khmer sculptures, relics and artefacts,
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dating from prehistoric times to the present. Then follow the crowds to Wat Phnom, a hilltop temple where residents come to pray for good luck. Atop the only hill in town, you’re bound to spot the spire that marks the location where the city was founded. The surrounding area has a number of lovely colonial buildings, a legacy of French rule from 1864 until 1953, so take your time to explore. For a more sobering history lesson, visit the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. In 1975, Pol Pot’s forces turned the former school into the notorious S-21 prison. Thousands of people were detained and tortured, before being sent to the Choeung Ek killing fields, 12 kilometers southwest of the city. Today, a memorial at the site includes a glass and concrete tower crammed with skulls. Back in town, leafy Street 178 behind the National Museum is home to a cluster of art galleries showcasing emerging local talent, such as La Galleria run by artist Em Riem. Nearby, Meta House exhibits contemporary Cambodian art in its large gallery and also has a cool rooftop cinema and restaurant. Street 240 runs parallel and is packed with cafés
Where to Stay Raffles Hotel Le Royal (raffles.com/phnom-penh) Built in 1929, Phnom Penh’s grand dame has welcomed writers, royalty and war correspondents. The famous Elephant Bar is a top spot for an aperitif. InterContinental Phnom Penh (intercontinental. com/phnompenh) This 15-storey hotel has fantastic views over the city, while the open-air swimming pool provides welcome relief from the tropical heat. White Mansion Hotel (hotelphnompenhwhitemansion.com) Housed in the former US Embassy, this stylish boutique hotel has high ceilinged rooms that are some of the most spacious in the city.
Ask a...
CONCIERGE
Muth Makara, of the InterContinental Phnom Penh, on the city’s best places to try traditional Cambodian food
Malis Set in elegant surroundings of Angkorian-inspired pools, garden and architecture, Malis serves authentic Khmer cuisine prepared by the renowned Cambodian chef Luu Meng. One of the city’s top dining destinations. Romdeng As well as leading the revival of Cambodian cuisine, this restaurant trains former street youths in cooking and service skills. With traditional recipes from the provinces, healthy ingredients and a lot of creativity, Romdeng offers a unique Cambodian dining experience.
Getting around While not for the fainthearted, motos (motorbike taxis), tuk-tuks (threewheeler rickshaws) and pedal-powered cyclos are the best ways to navigate the chaotic streets. Whichever you choose, just be sure to agree the fare before you set off.
Text by: Lara Brunt
Khmer is the official language, although you’ll also hear Chinese and Vietnamese. English is widely spoken among the younger generation, while it’s elderly, educated Cambodians who tend to speak French.
Photography supplied by: Corbis / Arabian Eye; Shutterstock
Language
and classy boutiques. Shop for unique jewellery made from colourful beads and recycled buttons at Waterlily, handmade bedding at Mekong Quilts, and high-quality furniture and contemporary and traditional artwork at Le Lézard Blue. Up the street is Wat Ounalom, which dates back to 1443 and is the headquarters of Cambodian Buddhism, making it one of Phnom Penh’s oldest and most important pagodas. Made up of 44 structures, highlights include a fine bronze Buddha and the crypt containing hundreds of funerary urns of Cambodian dignities. If you’re in town over the weekend, head to the Night Market on the riverfront at the corner of Street 108 to haggle for souvenirs such as silver, silk and brightly coloured khama scarves. Central Market, a handsome art deco building with distinctive yellow dome, has plenty of food stalls serving up stir-fried noodles, home-cooked curries, or fried insects if you’re feeling game.
K’nyay This unique caférestaurant serves a nice selection of mostly Khmer-inspired vegan cuisine as well as a range of Khmer meat dishes. Set in a restored villa, it is a nice retreat from the hustle and bustle of the city.
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Squeezed onto a narrow peninsula curling into the Arabian Sea, Mumbai has gone from small fishing settlement to sprawling metropolis in less than 500 years. Home to 16 million people, the city is the centre of business and the Bollywood industry. Yet, beyond the banks and boutiques, a very different Mumbai also exists with millions of people living in sprawling slums. While this city of contrasts is undeniably overwhelming, it remains an endlessly fascinating visual treat.
Where to Stay The Taj Mahal Palace (tajhotels.com) Built in 1903, this sumptuous 560-room hotel has hosted everyone from The Beatles to The Obamas. A must-visit spot even if you’re not staying here. InterContinental Marine Drive (intercontinental. com/mumbai) With floor-to-ceiling windows and a hipper-thanhip rooftop bar, this luxury hotel makes the most of its location overlooking the Arabian Sea. The Oberoi (oberoihotels. com) Shake off any jet lag in the opulent Oberoi’s 24-hour spa and try the tasting menu at Ziya, cooked by Vineet Bhatia, India’s first Michelin-starred chef.
The capital of Maharashtra state’s defining landmark is the Gateway of India, opposite its other great icon, the Taj Mahal Palace hotel. The towering basalt arch was built by the British to commemorate King George V’s visit in 1911 and features Hindu-style pillars and Islamic-inspired windows. Ferries depart from here for the hour-long ride to Elephanta Island in Mumbai harbour. The UNESCO World Heritage Site has unique cave temples dedicated to the Hindu god Shiva.
Mumbai’s sights India’s most dynamic city is bold, brash and brimming with amazing attractions
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Once back on dry land, stop for a coffee at Leopold Café, a Mumbai institution that featured in Gregory David Robert’s epic novel, Shantaram. A short walk north leads to the tongue-twisting Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (formerly the Prince of Wales Museum), Mumbai’s biggest and best museum. Opened in 1923, the domed building is an eclectic mix of Islamic, Hindu and British architectural styles and houses a vast collection of art and ancient artefacts from all over India. Just up the road are two of the city’s most imposing Gothic masterpieces: the India
World Traveller
Getting around
Photography supplied by: Corbis / Arabian Eye
Text by: Lara Brunt
While the first stage of the much-anticipated Mumbai monorail opened recently, taxis are still the best way to travel. The city’s iconic black-and-yellow Premier Padmini taxis are slowly being replaced with modern, air-conditioned cars.
Language Marathi is the official language, however, multilingual Mumbaiites are quite adept at English and Hindi too. You’ll also hear ‘Mumbaiya’, a colloquial mix of the three languages.
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black stone High Court and the University of Mumbai. The later was designed by Gilbert Scott in 1857, the same architect responsible for London’s St Pancras Station, and has an 80m-high clock tower modelled on Big Ben. Nearby is the Fort area, which has plenty of old-fashioned cafés and street stalls. At its heart are the elegantly curved terraces of Horniman Circle, flanked by the Town Hall-turned-library with its impressive white colonnades. The central gardens are open to the public and offer a shady retreat from the bustle of the streets. Continue north to Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (CST), another World Heritagelisted wonder. Completed in 1888, the railway station features magnificent Gothic domes, turrets, spires and stained-glass windows and a stunning staircase. It’s also one of Asia’s busiest railway stations. Marine Drive, a crescent-shaped promenade overlooking the Arabian Sea, is a great spot for a breezy afternoon
stroll. Lined with fading Victorian buildings and Art Deco apartment blocks, at night the twinkling streetlights have earned it the nickname the ‘Queen’s Necklace’. At the northern end of Marine Drive is Chowpatty Beach, the only strip of sand in central Mumbai and a favourite spot with locals. If you do want to venture into Mumbai’s underbelly, Reality Tours and Travel (realitytoursandtravel.com) organise tours in Dharavi - arguably Asia’s biggest slum and home to over a million people. Set up by Krishna Pujari and his British friend Chris Way in 2005, the tours (with a maximum of six people) aim to showcase the community spirit and small-scale industries, such as poppadum and pottery making, which exist. Their aim is to benefit the community, with 80 per cent of the profits going to the agency’s own NGO, which funds education, health and other development projects in the area.
Ask a...
CONCIERGE
Albert Amanna, of the InterContinental Marine Drive Mumbai, flags up the city’s best places to shop
Colaba Causeway A good stretch of road where you could spend the entire day. It’s got a nice mix of the upmarket as well as smaller shops, selling everything from clothing and handicrafts to souvenirs and music, and you can haggle, too. I’d recommend somewhere like Bellisimo Boutique, where you can get a shirt made to your specifications in just four hours. Crawford Market This place is a wholesale market for fruits and vegetables, and inside you’ll find Spice King, which is a good shop to buy all your spices to carry back home to help you prepare an authentic Indian meal. There are more than 200 shops within the market, and a good time to get there is around 10.30am when it’s not very busy. Linking Road This place is a fusion of the modern and traditional Mumbai, with branded stores next to independent shops selling lots of women’s fashions. It’s a one kilometre-long road and boasts a lot of good places to stop off for a bite.
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Suite Dreams What:
About:
Garden Water Villa
Cheval Blanc Randheli is the latest offering from LVMH’s hotel division (part of the group that owns over 60 of the world’s most prestigious brands). Opened last month in the northwest of the archipelago, the 45-villa resort is as jawdropping as
Where: Noonu Atoll, Maldives
Randheli
Noonu Atoll
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Concierge
you’d expect. The twobedroom Garden Water Villa, half perched on stilts overlooking the pristine turquoise lagoon, has an infinity pool out front and luxurious gardens out back (complete with hammock strung between swaying palm trees). Inside, it’s all
soaring thatched ceilings and warm taupe décor, but we doubt you’ll spend much time undercover when you have a coral reef to explore – and your own personal butler to arrange scuba diving lessons, dolphin watching cruises, and indulgent spa treatments.
THE LUXURY OF A HOTEL WITH THE COMFORTS OF HOME Enjoy panoramic views over the sparkling coastline and stunning cityscape at Fraser Suites Dubai. With award-winning service and extensive gold-standard facilities including swimming pools, steam & sauna, Kid’s Club, tennis & squash courts, conference rooms that can cater up to 200 delegates; relaxed dining in Aqua Café and the exclusive Awazen Spa Fraser Suites Dubai has it all.
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