World Traveller Nov'13

November 2013

Complimentary Copy

Issue Sixty Seven

ALL ABOARD

Liz Edwards hits the tracks for a tour through Central Europe

GREECE Island-hopping around the country’s lesser-known isles

TEA TIME

Produced in International Media Production Zone

Discover the ancient pleasures of China’s Chengdu province

Turkey Festive Markets Geneva Miami

November // 2013

Editor’s Note

Issue Sixty Seven, November 2013 You don’t have to be an animal lover to appreciate the power and beauty of Nick Brandt’s fine art photography. Featuring shots taken in 2010 in Tanzania’s Amboseli National Park, Across The Ravaged Land (his new exhibition and book) is a haunting reminder of the fragility of SubSaharan Africa’s ecosystem. Our love of safari holidays is well documented – in recent months the WT team has written extensively about the drama and beauty to be witnessed during the Great Migration. But, Brandt warns, since 2008 the number of elephants slaughtered by poachers for their tusks has dramatically increased. Lions, rhinos and cheetahs are suffering similar fates.

Find out more on page 11.

This issue we also discover the many charms of Djerba, in Tunisia, go island hopping in Greece, and revel in the candy-coloured Art Deco architecture of Miami.

And, as winter fast approaches, if you are thinking about heading to Europe for one the many festive markets there, then you won’t want to miss our guide to six of the best.

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Managing Director

Victoria Thatcher Editorial Director

John Thatcher Editor

Leah Oatway Senior Designer

Adam Sneade Designer & Illustrator

Andy Knappett Production Manager

Chalitha Fernando Senior Advertisement Manager

Stefanie Morgner To contact any of the above people, email firstname@hotmediapublishing.com

Jan-Jun 2013 | 22,920 | BPA Consumer Audit Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller.

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494

Cover: Sail boat in the ocean. Corbis / Arabian Eye

Leah Oatway leah@hotmediapublishing.com

@WT_magazine

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November // 2013

Contents

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7-32

41-72

73-88

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Destinations

Concierge

We catch up with The Maldives’ most stylish newcomer; find out why safari trips to Sub-Saharan Africa could be a thing of the past if animal poachers have their way; and find out where one of the world’s most prolific chefs, Wolfgang Puck, eats.

Plus, exclusive reader offers from dnata.

Malcolm Moore meets pandas in Chendgu and sip tea at ancient tea houses; Liz Edwards rediscovers Central Europe on a nostalgic journey aboard the Danube Express, while Sankha Guha reveals the beauty to be found on some of Greece’s lesser known islands.

Abu Dhabi Art is celebrating its fifth birthday with a line-up that’s bigger and better than ever before. Meanwhile, Europe’s festive markets are preparing to open and we’ve got six that you’ll love.

Plus, take a walking tour of Geneva and discover colourful reasons to visit Miami.

World Traveller

November // 2013

Check In The Essentials

For whom the bell atolls A new Maldives retreat promises a stylish stay It’s difficult to imagine a more glorious retreat than a Louis Vuitton-managed hotel in the Maldives. Which is why the unveiling of Cheval Blanc Randheli this month is such a joy.

Everything about the property, which is the second

Cheval Blanc Maison by LVMH Management, is pure escapism. With the unspoiled Noonu Atoll as its setting, it has been designed with barefoot island living in mind: 45 loft-style villas afford guests a serene and unpretentious stay, respectful of nature.

Inside, designers have played with local materials: rattan, bamboo, coconut shell, teak and thatch, to create something special. The colour scheme, a palette of white, taupe and oyster grey, comes alive with splashes of egg yolkyellow and green.

The villas feel spacious – with lofty ceilings and grand glass doors that open on both sides of the property to offer unhindered appreciation of the sublime landscape beyond.

But close the doors and you’re afforded a cosy space – one that feels private and exclusive.

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You’ll arrive on Cheval Blanc’s speciallycustomised seaplane, catching your first glimpse of the Atoll’s crystal blue waters below, where precious coral reefs house vibrant marine life. After a walk on your private stretch of beach, take a dip in your infinity pool before taking a leisurely breakfast. For a memorable lagoon-side living experience, choose a water villa, which perch over the sea. After a swim, take a rain shower before relaxing on an over-water deck.

Highly private garden villas afford you all of this but with the added bonus of being surrounded by private gardens where you can dine and unwind. Island villas ensure families are well catered for, but for those looking for a truly spectacular stay, there is the owner’s villa: think private berth and jetty, four bedrooms, its own spa, an oversized pool and a fleet of dhonis (motorised sailboats).

Done relaxing? There’s everything from snorkelling and diving expeditions to a spa, yoga and even a gym.

Visits from LVMH labels provide opportunities to splurge, while foodies will adore the Maison’s chefs (at its five restaurants or in-villa). chevalblanc.com

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> Like a phoenix, Necker Island’s Great House has risen from the ashes just two years after a suspected lightning strike burnt it down. Sir Richard Branson’s Caribbean Island home retains much of the look and feel of its predecessor (including its Balinese design), but it’s bigger – with larger bedrooms and even grander terraces. The private island house has eight guest rooms in total and can cater for up to 30 people. neckerisland.virgin.com

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> A new smart phone app by Dubai-based Hajjnet aims to help Hajj pilgrims.

HajjSalam runs without internet access and includes prayer prompts, maps that show nearby mosques and hospitals and even a packing check-list of essential items.

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ick Brandt is a difficult man to track down. When we finally catch up with the internationally acclaimed fine art photographer he is exhausted after a gruelling marketing operation that has seen him attend five exhibition openings in as many countries in just eight days.

The openings were for exhibitions of his latest works, Across The Ravaged Land: the final in a powerful trilogy of breathtaking images that strive to document the increasingly fragile beauty of Sub-Saharan Africa and, importantly, the plight of its critically endangered animal inhabitants.

“Back in 2001 I started work on taking photographs as a kind of elegy to the disappearing natural world of East Africa,” he explained. “And even though I kind of knew that world was disappearing, I didn’t realise, even though I’m quite a pessimistic person, just how incredibly dramatically the destruction was going to escalate.”

Brandt, raised in the UK before moving to the States in the early ‘90s, first fell in love with Tanzania while directing Michael Jackson’s Earth Song video.

“I suddenly realised this is what I wanted to do with my life,” he said. “I wanted to express my feelings about animals and the natural world and photography was the best medium to do that because I was in control.”

a VOICE to BE HERD

Meet the man who turned his back on a lucrative career directing music videos for the world’s biggest stars to save Africa’s most vulnerable animals...

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November // 2013

1. Elephant on Bare Earth 2011 2. Line of Rangers with Tusks of Elephant Killed at the Hands of Man, Amboseli, 2011 3. Elephant Skull, Amboseli, 2012 4. Ranger with Tusks of Elephant Killes at the Hands of Man, Amboseli, 2011

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Today he photographs exclusively in Africa. “Sub-Saharan Africa is one of the few places left on the planet that you could see multiple species of animals en masse and that is incredibly moving. It connects with you. There’s something iconic, mythical, about those animals in those landscapes.”

When Brandt returned to Amboseli National Park, Tanzania in 2010 to start the third book (in which these images now also feature) the severity of the changes that had taken place there shocked him.

“Since 2008 there has been a massive escalation in the demand for animal parts from the Far East and it has triggered an apocalypse of destruction across the African continent,” he said. “There are

now 35,000 elephants a year being killed for their ivory in Africa – that’s 10 per cent of the population every year. At the current rate, in 10 years time the entire African elephant population will no longer exist in the wild.”

The same applies, though figures differ, he said, for rhinos, lions and cheetahs.

“It’s not just China and the Far East but also the Middle East, which is one of the reasons why I was particularly keen for us to talk about this with World Traveller.

There will be some people who do buy ivory and in some instances they don’t even realise that animals die because of it.

“In reality, you’ve got guys coming in with everything from poisoned spears to machine guns, hacking out the ivory from

these animal’s heads – sometimes while these elephants are still alive.”

While Brandt always expected the third instalment of the elegy to be darker, when he discovered that many of the elephants he had photographed during previous visits had been killed he felt compelled to launch Big Life – the nonprofit organisation he now runs with conservationist Richard Bonham in a bid to eliminate poaching in Amboseli.

Knowing his images could raise not only awareness but much needed funds, Brandt drew on his creative talent to portray the animals’ suffering in an intimate and engaging manner that didn’t involve gory death shots.

In reference to Elephant On Bare Earth

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November // 2013

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(opening picture), Brandt said: “He is my favourite elephant in Amboseli. I spent three weeks trying to take his portrait.

I considerate it something of a miracle that an elephant with tusks worth tens of thousands of dollars can continue to walk the land without being murdered for his ivory. As of four months ago he was still alive but when they go out of that two-million-acre area I have a pit in my

patrols on both sides of a country’s border – Kenya and Tanzania,” Brandt said proudly. “Animals don’t pay attention to borders and poachers don’t pay attention to borders, so neither can the people protecting them.”

He and his team also work within the communities that surround the preserved area, raising awareness and support for their work.

Photography supplied by: Nick Brandt

Text by: Leah Oatway

Demand for animal parts has triggered an apocalypse of destruction across Africa

stomach, worrying if a male bull elephant, of which there are only about three dozen left of that maturity in the entire eco system, is going to see out his days.”

In reference to the photo of the line of rangers holding the tusks (previous page), Brandt explained that the ivory (borrowed from the authorities) belonged to elephants killed at the hands of man in the Amboseli ecosystem between 2004 and 2009. All of the rangers, locally hired, now work for Big Life – some are former poachers themselves.

Today 310 of these rangers patrol the vast area from 31 outposts that stretch across Kenya and Tanzania. In the past three years, the photographer claims, their efforts have helped dramatically reduce poaching incidents within the national park, bucking the regional trend.

“Big Life is the only organisation in East Africa that has coordinated anti-poaching

“The only hope, the only future for conservation in the wild in East Africa and in many places in the world is the support of and collaboration with the local communities. We have thousands of eyes on the ground, not just 300.

“Increasingly these communities understand that the only really and truly sustainable long-term economic benefit in the land where they live is wildlife tourism. We have areas where there are a couple of lodges that had stopped seeing elephants and lions and they’re now seeing them again. It becomes a win-win situation for the animals, the people and for us all.”

Across The Ravaged Land is on show at London’s Atlas Gallery until November 10 and is available to buy, in book format, from Abrams Books. nickbrandt.com

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Gstaad & deliver

As ski season approaches, World Traveller explores all that is new and wonderful about exclusive Swiss village Gstaad…

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hen Swiss-born couple Daniel and Davia Koetser met and married in the exclusive Swiss region of Gstaad they spent their first night at the plush five-star hotel Le Grand Bellevue.

Next month, having been closed for a re-branding, refurbishment and revamp, the property will re-open, just in time for ski season, this time under the ownership of the Koetsers.

“My wife and I have a great affinity with Gstaad,” said Daniel. “We love it for its traditions and age-old institutions but feel that there’s room for innovation and a dash of sassiness.”

It’s not difficult to see why the couple fell so in love with Gstaad. Situated in the heart of the Swiss Alps, three superb ski areas surround the exclusive traffic-free village, which boasts beautiful scenery, Check In

some fantastic boutiques and exquisite restaurants. Not only has it drawn an illustrious crowd for more than a century but other five-star hotels there, such as the Gstaad Palace, have retained staff for more than 40 years.

In fact, German-speaking Gstaad, in the southwest of Switzerland, was nicknamed ‘The Place’ by Time magazine in the 1960s owing to the rich and famous holidaymakers it attracted. Among those who have lived or visited there are Formula One’s Bernie Ecclestone, Madonna, Elizabeth Taylor, Prince Rainier and Grace Kelly. Today, perhaps its most famous resident is director Roman Polanski, though plenty of celebrities continue to grace its five-star hotels.

Super-strict building regulations that the Municipality of Saanen applies without exception mean everything in

Gstaad, from its homes to the ultra-chic designer boutiques (think Chloe and Oscar de la Renta) that line its ice-trimmed promenade, Hauptstrasse, is in keeping with the village’s picture-perfect charm.

Including Le Grand Bellevue. Built in 1912 as the Cure House and Spa, today the new-look 57-room abode aims to make even the most privileged guest feel at home. The couple have stripped away the property’s past formalities and grandeur in an aim to create a community, neighbourhood feel that’s more in keeping with a country hotel and Gstaad’s ethos.

But don’t let the traditional façade or relaxed environment fool you – inside, a vibrant and contemporary look sees interiors that merge colour and print with elegant furnishings. And the menu created by Michelin-starred master chef Urs Gchwend at the hotel’s signature

Photography supplied by: Le Grand Bellevue

Text by: Leah Oatway

World Traveller

restaurant Leonard’s serves comfort food that is far from ordinary, including creamed pea soup with mint and bergamot and warm molten chocolate cake with homemade vanilla ice cream. It never fails to lure in a crowd.

In a more obvious nod to Gstaad’s glamorous clientele, an on-site yacht club with a world-renowned exclusive members club is open to guests and the serene Bellevue Spa offers everything from water beds with mountain views through to a Himalayan salt inhalation grotto and an outdoor Finnish sauna.

“Our dream is to create a buzzing destination in the heart of the village that captures the spirit of Gstaad but looks to its bright future too,” Daniel said. “We want the hotel to feel understated and effortless, yet imaginative and spoiling.”

The spirit of Gstaad, despite the

November // 2013

glamorous people it attracts and the wealth of stylish boutiques and art galleries there, remains surprisingly traditional. Purveyors of luxury would do well to leave their airs and graces at the village’s entrance, for while it goes all out

crafts – such as carvings, hand looming, paper cutting and rustic art. These traditions have been carefully preserved, which is good news for Gstaad’s 100 restaurants, where locally produced ingredients have resulted in top rankings from prestigious restaurant guides.

A rare new addition to the fold was MEGU, the first European outpost of the acclaimed New York Japanese restaurant, which opened at the Alpina Gstaad hotel last December. Alpina Gstaad was the first new five-star hotel to be allowed to open in Gstaad in 100 years and, much like the hotel, both locals and visitors welcomed its eatery with open arms.

The arrival of the property was a huge talking point for the village, not only because Alpina Gstaad’s creation was historic but because the $337 million development (which cradles 56 rooms and suites, private apartments and two chalets) went to great lengths to ensure it looked like it had always been there.

Nearby, at the Gstaad Palace, people pay big bucks to stay at the Walig Hut, a wooden farm shed built in 1786 some 5,000 feet up a mountain. While it’s been modernised, guests go back to basics here, using a wood-burning stove for hot water and using a rustic bathroom.

We love Gstaad for its traditions and its age-old institutions to cater to their expensive tastes, it does not bow to pretension.

The area is deeply rooted in its alpine history: from the harsh living conditions high up in the mountains (where cattle breeding, milk and meat production are mainstays) to its customs and timeless

But with sensational views of the valley below, beds swathed in chunky duvets and hand-embroidered bedding, a threecourse meal as the sun sets and the only neighbours being the local herd of cows, it’s easy to see why they keep going back for more.

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World Traveller

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THE WORLD’S BEST RESTAUR ANTS (according to Wolfgang Puck) The original celebrity chef Wolfgang Puck will open a branch of his acclaimed steak house CUT in Dubai next year at The Address Downtown Dubai. He tells John O’ Ceallaigh what he looks for in a restaurant and shares the names of his favourite restaurants from across the globe. Get booking…

I can go to a simple restaurant; if the service is polite and professional it’s great. For years I used to say people don’t care about the service as long as the food is good but now I know that if the guest walks into the restaurant and is greeted nicely and taken care of then half the battle is won. Some things can leave me annoyed though: when waiters try to tell me how to eat this or that or what wine I should order it can be overbearing. I’m old enough to make my own mind up. In America it almost feels like you become friends with the waiters, but it’s good to be nice because you want the waiter to be on your side, to tell you what the best dish is and to help you make the most of your night. Going out to a good restaurant isn’t just about going out to feed yourself, it’s about going out and having a good experience, catching up with friends and celebrating what’s special.

Check In

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World Traveller

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Le Louis XV - Alain Ducasse, Monaco I like Le Louis XV - Alain Ducasse in the Hotel de Paris in Monte Carlo. He has a chef there who cooks with olive oil and the food isn’t overly rich or French. It’s more like a mixture of France and Italy and it uses a lot of local products. The clientele is quite international – I used to work in that hotel before Ducasse came – and the dining room is very glamorous and romantic and grand, the way you expect a three-Michelin-starred restaurant to be. It’s a good option if you want to go out for a birthday or anniversary, something special.

Spago, Los Angeles, America

Matsuhisa, Los Angeles, America One of my favourite places in Los Angeles is Matsuhisa. It’s been open for 27 years and I like it because it’s like wearing a great cashmere sweater.

It’s always good, it’s always nice, it’s always comfortable.

It’s not fancy-looking, but the people are friendly and the fish is as fresh as could be. When I eat out in LA I tend to know most of the people working there, and lots of the guests too so it’s social. When I go to Matsuhisa I tell the chef to just fix me something. I’m never disappointed because when you ask them to do that it means they always try their hardest.

Saying which of my own restaurants is a favourite is like asking me which child is my favourite, but I love Spago in Los Angeles because it was my first one. When I opened it in 1982 I wrote ‘Spago California cuisine’ on the menu. Californian cuisine is a mixture, as LA or California is, of different cultures, so we have Asian influences, Italian influences, French influences. It’s a mixture of different dishes and cuisines.

When I started we made a pizza with smoked salmon and caviar and Peking duck. We had some interesting pastas and salads and grilled items.

I’d recommend whole-egg ravioli with a Carbonara-style sauce that’s really popular. The Peking duck is also still really popular and people still order the smoked salmon pizza even if it’s not on the menu.

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L’Oustau de Baumanière, Les Baux-de-Provence, France I love the L’Oustau de Baumanière restaurant in Les Baux, near Avignon in the south of France. I worked there when I was 18 or 19 or so, and Raymond Thuilier was the owner and chef. Now, every three years or so, I have the opportunity to go back to eat there and stay there as a customer. The restaurant is within a hotel - it’s a fabulous place to visit. In the restaurant they’re very famous for their baby lamb in puff pastry, which they made when Raymond did his own thing and didn’t cook from recipes. He had a huge vegetable garden and everything was brought in fresh and cooked to order. If you wanted carrots we peeled the carrots and cooked them; if you wanted a vegetable soup we cooked it to order, and we only used the best products.

Steiereck, Vienna, Austria

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The Fat Duck, Bray, England When I’m in England I love going to The Fat Duck. I know Heston Blumenthal very well and when I went there I Check In

was really impressed by the restaurant’s inventiveness and modern style of cooking. The food is excellent, of course, but it’s not just about that – you go there for the entire experience.

That said, I particularly

remember some beautiful lamb chops I had. There was also a seafood dish, Sound of the Sea, where they gave me an iPod so I could listen to the waves as I ate; it was fun, clever and delicious.

There’s a restaurant called Steiereck in Vienna which is a family restaurant and probably the best restaurant in Austria.

It’s inventive but you can still get a Wiener schnitzel or other traditional food. When I go back to Austria that’s what I want, so I tell the chef to cook me something Austrian.

It’s popular with locals but everybody goes there. If you are a businessman in Vienna and you have a colleague coming from elsewhere who likes good food you’d take him there. The interior is beautiful, elegant and modern, and so is the location; it’s in a large park that would be similar to Hyde Park in London.

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Let us offer you Arabian hospitality at its finest.

Let us teach you about our rich Qatari heritage.

Let us wrap you in luxury and comfort.

Let us keep a place in your heart.

Sharq Village & Spa is a novel contrast harking back to the past and offering a memorable experience for visitors seeking a destination resort with an exceptional ”sense of place”. For reservations, contact your travel professional, call 974-4425-6666, email rc.dohsq.reservations@ritzcarlton.com or visit ritzcarlton.com/sharqvillage.

©2013 The Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company, L.L.C.

World Traveller

November // 2013

For Prince Roland Bonaparte, a member of the French royal family during the late 19th century, there was no question about where his home should be. In May 1891, the then 41-year-old aristocrat and president of the Société de Géographie (Geographic Society) bought almost 3,000 square metres of prime land on Avenue d’Iena, in Paris’ elegant 16th arrondissement.

Now in the possession of grounds situated between the statue of George Washington and the Eiffel Tower, close to the River Seine and at the heart of France’s capital city, he quickly commissioned famed architect Ernest Janty (who had worked on the reconstruction of the Louvre, among other high-profile projects) to build him his dream home. It took Janty four years, from 1892 to 1896, to complete the Prince’s vision. The result was spectacular.

Its exterior featured stone from L’Oise, a northern French department, and renowned sculptors Steiner and Houguenade were commissioned to carve the front of the house, including adding Bonaparte’s family coat of arms.

It was a two-winged house: the Lena wing and the Fresnel wing. The Lena

Historic Hotel #5

RECREATING the PAST

Why the Shangri-La Hotel Paris comes with a royal seal of approval

wing, accessed from 10 Avenue d’Iena, was where Bonaparte’s family lived. It was beautiful, with a grand mansard roof and bullseye glass windows to attract light and a mosaic on the second floor of blue and gold. Guests would arrive by carriage to the courtyard, entering through elaborate gates in keeping with a palace.

Inside, they would first be struck by the home’s foyer – a rotunda with vaulted ceiling featuring the signs of the zodiac and boasting a rich combination of five types of marble from the Pyrenees, Alps and Tuscany. They’d then meet Bonaparte or his family members in one of three impressive reception rooms.

A vestibule and a secondary staircase, as well as a Staircase of Honour made from forged steel and polished brass and featuring a bronze statue of a child holding a torch, joined the two wings of the house. It was in the Fresnel wing that the Prince dedicated space to the arts and, in particular, to his vast collection of scientific specimens, including the world’s largest Check In

herbarium. A colossal library, study and fantastic collection of arts could be found here – the former of which was donated to the Geographic Society upon his death in 1924.

In 1925, the Universal Company of the Suez Canal bought Bonaparte’s former home and it later become the base of UbiFrance, the French international business agency, before being sold in 2006 to Shangri-La Hotels and Resorts.

The Asian hotel chain immediately registered the seven-storey building with Monuments Historiques, recognising its historical importance. It then began the painstaking job of renovating the property, while attempting to retain all of the historical features that made it so unique. It wasn’t an easy job and required expert guidance from European specialists in order to retain the 19th century architectural features. They considered everything, from the selection of paint colours, sheen and gold-leaf appliques through to the salvaging of marble floors

and columns. Stain glass windows were taken apart and reassembled, wood floors removed board by board, refurbished and meticulously re-laid.

In 2009 the most historic features of the property were listed with Monuments Historiques, including the cast-iron gateway, the carved façade, Stairway of Honour and the family rooms on the ground floor.

There were surprises too, that had long been hidden by those who took resident in the years proceeding Bonaparte’s death. Among them, a glass and steel structure inspired by the Eiffel Tower that had been hidden by the dropped ceiling of a conference room. Also, in the dining room, hidden behind electric blue lacquer were hand-carved mahogany panels that Bonaparte had commissioned. Now refurbished by master craftsmen, they are enjoyed by guests at the Shangri-La Hotel Paris. And number 10 Avenue d’Iena is once again the address for Paris’ most elegant and chic.

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November // 2013

> There’s further competition for luxury resorts on Bali’s blissful beachs as The Chedi Sakala prepares to welcome its first guests this month. Made up of suites and villas, the vast resort occupies 2.4 hectares of coastline on the Nusa Dua Peninsula. Also Eastwards, properties don’t come more techno-savvy than Mira Moon in Hong Kong’s Wan Chai

District. The Design Hotels property’s cutting-edge look is inspired by China’s Moon Festival and the Chinese-Spanish fusion tapas at its restaurant, Super Gian, sounds intriguing.

Last but not least, here in Dubai, Hawthorn Suites by Wyndham is this month opening its doors on The Walk at Jumeirah Beach Residence.

BOOKS with a LICENCE to THRILL As John Grisham releases his 26th legal thriller, we revisit some of the best page-turners of the genre

Sycamore Row John Grisham When a wealthy tycoon commits suicide and leaves his fortune to his black maid, protagonist Jake Brigance finds himself at the centre of another courtroom drama, this time one that exposes deep racial tensions.

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The Lincoln Lawyer Michael Connelly After lawyer Mickey Haller lands his first big client, a Beverly Hills playboy accused of assaulting a woman, he thinks he’s quids in. But nothing is quite as it seems in this riveting read.

The Tenth Justice Brad Meltzer A clerk for the Supreme Court is tricked into leaking a confidential document that puts himself and his three housemates into serious danger as they try to exact their revenge.

Primal Fear William Diehl Michael Vail’s case looks impossible to defend: his client was caught red-handed in the murder of a Chicago Archbishop. But when the lawyer introduces a psychologist, it all changes.

World Traveller

November // 2013

A. What a great excuse to invest in one of the incredible coats on offer from the major design houses this season. From the chic silk-satin and jacquard Barth coat

by The Row (the Olsen twins’ surprising high-fashion line) to Missoni’s ethereal offwhite shearling wrap number: choose well and you’ll be turning heads for years.

The trick is to go with what suits your shape and lifestyle, and not necessarily what looks good in a magazine. The good news is that this season is awash with modern classics in all shapes and sizes.

For those who are slim built, oversized coats are, pardon the pun, huge this season and add a lustful androgynous streak to your look that’s perfect for big cities, especially when paired with a good pair of heels and some skinny-fit trousers. Be careful though: get it wrong and you’ll look like you accidentally put your dad’s coat on or, worse still, shrunk in the shower. Stella McCartney’s pinstripe wool-blend coat blends a masculine look with structured shoulders and a double-breasted front, so you can retain a hint of waist, while Joseph’s signature Man wool and cashmere-blend coat is the perfect accompaniment to a chilly city break. If you’re after something with a bit more shape and colour then Gucci’s swoonworthy double-breasted wool coat in khaki is timeless, as is

by the kick flare in the coat’s bottom half.

On the opposite side of the colour spectrum, off-white coats are everywhere.

Forget any concerns about looking like an ice queen: they manage to be warm in both tone and fabric, though if you’re not great at keeping your food on your fork then you may want to give these a miss. WT’s favourites include Giambattista Valli’s creamy oversized textured coat: silk-lined and woven with mohair and wool; while the structure of Bottega Veneta’s inverted-pleat, slim-fit woollen number is incredible (above).

Finally, those who don’t like to feel weighed down by a heavy coat, and aren’t heading into the rain, should explore this season’s wrap-and cardigan-styles. Missoni’s shearling wrap coat is as

Hold the front page Protect your passport with a designer holder...

Mulberry (Matchesfashion.com)

Gucci (net-a-porter.com)

Style Solutions

WAR DROBE MISTRESS Q. I’m going to need a coat to see me through this season as I’m travelling to both the UK and the US in the coming months and it’s getting chilly. But there are so many styles to choose from. Help!

Burberry London’s slightly military-esque double-breasted wool-blend piece.

If you need one coat that can take you from day through to night then it has to be a long black number. If you’re planning on wearing it for formal evening functions then The Row’s afore-mentioned Barth is just beautiful, as is Miu Miu’s ultraflattering belted wool-blend gabardine coat. The latter, inspired by Alfred Hitchcock’s heroines has a thick leather belt that creates a neat waist accentuated

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plush as they come and looks as great over jeans as it does a slip dress and pearl jewellery, while Nina Ricci’s cream knitted coat with white cotton trim is as cosy as it is good looking (no mean feat). Have fun shopping for your perfect fit.

Our regular style expert Francesca Salih is the founder of Wardrobe Mistress, which provides style solutions and wardrobe management to the rich, royal and famous. wardrobemistress.co.uk

Reno by Jimmy Choo (net-a-porter.com)

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November // 2013

Cruise Control

Rivington Thrill On the achingly cool Lower East Side of Manhattan, New York, sits the Hotel on Rivington. It’s slick, hip and as many other adjectives along those lines as you care to insert. Also home to celebrity haunt CO-OP Food & Drink, it’s one of scores of seductively designed hotels that features in Cool Hotels America. Martin Nicholas Kunz has had the enviable task of curating this sleekly presented coffee table tome published by teNeues, choosing from the finest properties across the length and breadth of the United States, Mexico, Central and South America. teneues.com

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It’s that time of year again, when winter knits and chunky boots are flooding clothing shops: great news for those staying in Europe but not so great for us in warmer climes. Fortunately, WT’s favourite fashion houses have our needs covered with their 2014 resort collections.

When it comes to Parisian chic, look to Louis Vuitton.

Inspired by the timeless appeal and bohemian magic of 1970s France, it’s perfect for city breaks, whatever the weather and whichever the country.

Jaw-dropping dress coats in lemon yellow and vibrant turquoise bring an elongated silhouette and add a flattering masculine touch when worn over

lightweight crepe floral dresses, while its ink-blue trouser suit with flattering flared-leg tailoring (pictured) remains one of this season’s most covetous designer outfits.

Over at the house of Chanel, Karl Lagerfeld has created a collection that hints at the elegance of the Thirties, albeit with a few fun flourishes and an exotic Asian twist. Elegant calf-length dresses and specially woven tweedlike fabrics offer all the flair but none of the heat. Those seeking Coco Chanel’s classic summer wardrobe will not be disappointed with the low-belt tunics and wide-leg pants, and the sailorstriped tops are to-die-for.

For a touch of traditional craftsmanship then you don’t want to miss Tomas Maier’s cotton poplin dresses for Bottega Veneta with their raw snips of St Gallen lace, or indeed the maison’s A-line numbers, which feature exquisite macramé. Finish the look with Maier’s raffia brogues or kitten heels, both of which created quite a stir earlier this year.

And then there are the beautifully simple, feminine shapes and lines of Chloe: WT has fallen in love with its coral-coloured, ruffle-sleeved maxi dress. Divine.

A GR AND DESIGN Ground breaking design, exquisite furniture, mouth-watering food courtesy of three-Michelinstarred Spanish chef Eneko Axta: we don’t need any other reason to be any more excited about the new and super stylish Phuket destination Iniala Beach House.

A different international designer from countries including Spain, Thailand, the UK, Russia and the US designed each of the 10 bedrooms in the traditional Thai house, which opens this month. and the results are stunning. iniala.com

Images, bottom left story, top to bottom: The Standard Downtown,Los Angeles; Hotel of Rivington, New York; © Cool Hotels America edited by Martin Nicholas Kunz.

For frequent travellers, cruise collections are invaluable. As UAE boutique shops prepare to welcome the 2014 collections, WT takes a peek…

PA O LO F ER R A R I · CEO + GLOBAL CITIZEN, LOS ANGELES · TUMI.COM ABU DHABI MALL . +971 2 6738574 . THE GALLERIA . +971 2 4124115 THE DUBAI MALL . +971 4 3398536 . MIRDIF CITY CENTER . +971 4 2363408 DUBAI FESTIVAL CITY . +971 4 2326500 ALSO AVAILABLE AT GALERIES LAFAYETTE

NEW YORK · PARIS · MILAN · SHANGHAI · LONDON · TOKYO · DUBAI · HONG KONG

November // 2013

World Traveller Promotion

Pick of the Palm Head to Dubai’s famous manmade isle and soak up its world-class hotels…

Promotion

Image: Courtesy of Fairmont The Palm

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World Traveller

November // 2013

Kempinski Hotel & Residences Palm Jumeirah kempinski.com

With its blush-pink façade, emerald-green turrets and beachside setting, Kempinksi’s property on The Palm looks more like a palace than a hotel. Happily for us, it’s the latter – not only that but it’s family friendly too, so you can indulge in its ample luxuries whether you’re travelling as a unit or just as a two. If you do have kids in tow Kempinski Kids’ Club is sure to keep your little monsters amused, allowing the adults to slope off to the pool (order a thirst-quenching tipple at its swim-up bar) or take an à la carte lunch at Italian restaurant Brunellos (we love its palazzostyle columns). Or perhaps you’d prefer a little pampering at the resort’s Cinq Mondes Spa? If you are a spa lover, you’ll be head over heels with the treatments on offer, whether it’s an all-over body treatment you hanker for (try the Papaya Puree Radiance Scrub) or a little face-time with a personalised facial using only the finest French products.

Once the family’s back together, arrange a Beachside Barbecue for dinner, where delicious meats and seafood can be grilled on the hotel’s private beach. But if you really want to push the boat out, you can’t trump a stay in a three- or four-bed penthouse suite. While the kids dive into the private pool, you can take a soak in the Jacuzzi, admire the sea view from the suite’s huge terrace, or simply sink into plush gold furnishings. Put simply, it’s fit for royalty.

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The Offer: Enjoy a weekday break for families or couples in a Palm Jumeirah Suite from Dhs3,900, with benefits including upgrade to the next suite category upon check-in, butler service, private beach cabana for a day and tickets to Aquaventure waterpark or Ski Dubai.

November // 2013

Anantara Dubai The Palm Resort & Spa resdubaipalm@anantara.com. +971 4 5678888

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If you want to make the most of the bright lights of Dubai but still get away from it all, the idyllic Thai-inspired environs of Anantara Dubai The Palm Resort & Spa could be a match made in heaven. Make for The Palm and it’s impossible to miss the enchanting resort’s Thai architecture along its eastern crescent. Once inside you’ll find a tranquil world of guestrooms (some 293) and villas, interrupted only by inky, winding lagoons and Thai twists, from tuk tuks that whisk you round the Promotion

resort to boats drifting down waterways as if in a Bangkok floating market. The rooms steal the show here: the Beach Pool Villas (one and two beds) boast their own private swimming pool and direct access to the beach, while the Premier and Deluxe Lagoon Access Rooms have direct access from a terrace into those wonderful winding lagoon pools. But what really sets this resort apart is its Over Water Villas – the first of their kind in the Middle East. Reserve one and you’ll be

privy to high-end features, from a private deck (just the place for moonlit dining) to an oversized bathtub (get in and admire the panoramas). Our favourite feature has to be the glass-viewing panel placed on the floor, providing a private window into the ocean below. If it sounds breathtaking, it is. Add to it a ‘personal villa host’ to cater to your every whim and it’s safe to say the sightseeing can wait.

If you do manage to drag yourself away (though there really is no rush), you might care for a dip in one of the resort’s three lagoon pools or, better still, the sea, where you can enjoy all manner of watersports: from pedalos and paddle boarding, to banana boats and triple tube rides.

When night falls, though, take up a table at one of the resort’s array of restaurants or bars, which offer Thai, Vietnamese, Chinese, Australian and Mediterranean cuisines. In fact, your only difficulty may be deciding which one to dine at.

The Offer: For the latest offers on stays at the Anantara Dubai The Palm Resort & Spa, visit dubai-palm.anantara.com

World Traveller

November // 2013

Jumeirah Zabeel Saray jumeirah.com Dubai is known for its all-out opulence and on The Palm it doesn’t get much more opulent than the mighty Jumeirah Zabeel Saray. Enter its winding driveway and you’ll be hit head-on by its handsome Ottoman looks. Intricate mosaics guide you into the lobby where you’ll be met by an almighty water feature and stood among gold leaf-covered pillars and redand turquoise-jewelled chandeliers (trust us, jaws will drop).

Next, wander the decadent lobby where the hotel’s array of first-rate eateries and lounges branch out from right to left. Come Friday, the French-themed Imperium forms the glitziest of backdrops in which to brunch (a favoured Dubai pastime), where you can take your pick of a feast-worthy array of dishes, eaten among gilded columns or out on the ocean-facing terrace. On any evening the modish Voda lounge, with its space-age chairs and all-white aesthetic, is a chic setting for sun-downers, while the peckish may prefer to savour Vietnamese fare in the beautiful Voi, authentic Northern Indian cuisine in Amala or some of the tastiest Lebanese food in the city at Al Nafoorah - it’s excellent.

But the extravagance doesn’t stop there: make for your boudoir to find a richly-furnished, jewel-toned space draped in silks and brocades. Make sure to save ample time for your bathroom too – they boast square marble tubs with room for two. But the piece de resistance of the resort for spa-lovers has to be the colossal 8,000 square-metre Talise Ottoman Spa. Head there in a fluffy robe and make the most of over 70 treatment rooms, not to mention insanely luxe treatments, from a Gold Facial to an Arabian Gold Hammam.

Now that’s what we call opulence.

The Offer: For great offers to stay at Jumeirah Zabeel Saray over the winter months, visit jumeirah.com/jzswinterbreaks

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November // 2013

Sofitel Dubai The Palm Resort & Spa sofitel.com

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After much anticipation, you can now see the Sofitel’s sophisticated French style take shape on The Palm.

Having opened this summer, its Polynesian island theme runs throughout the resort, from the wooden raftered lobby inside to manicured gardens and exotic blooms out. It’s a look that continues through its 361 rooms and suites too – the crème de la crème of which boast personal butlers.

Those travelling with the whole family, though, may prefer a Beach Villa (did we mention the resort has its own private stretch of cotton-soft beach?) Make a beeline past its rooms (which bear turquoise hues, wooden features and a Promotion

stone bathtub) and straight up to the roof terrace where you can not only soak-up endless ocean vistas but take a dip in your own private pool. But if you don’t have a villa, don’t fret a jot – the resort’s rooms are every bit as beautiful, while the resort’s main swimming pool offers sea-facing views, so lay back and bask beneath swaying palms or linen parasols.

If the sun gets too much, ask the concierge to arrange a water-ski session or a round of golf, or seek out the SO Spa: here you can bask in a wonderful pool, sink into the sauna or steam room or, for the ladies, indulge in a French beauty treatment. When it comes to the evening’s meal, stay put (there are eight international

restaurants and seven lounges here after all) and sample the likes of French fare at Studio de Chef (its open kitchen creates a fabulous spectacle for food buffs) or try sushi, sashimi and ceviches at Moana (‘the ocean’), slabs of succulent beef at PorterHouse, or traditional Chinese dishes at the excellent Hong Loong. Whatever you do, it’s sure to be magnifique.

The Offer: Stay in a Luxury Palm View Room with breakfast daily, starting from AED805* per person, per night. *Minimun two-nights stay. Call 04 316 6666 to book.

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Atlantis The Palm, Dubai atlantisthepalm.com It’s not every day you get to stay in a hotel that’s home to aquariums, water parks, boutiques, a spa, kids’ clubs and world-class restaurants (the famous Nobu among them) – such is the nature of the gargantuan Atlantis, The Palm Dubai.

Drive up the trunk of the city’s manmade island and you can’t fail to spy its famous salmon-pink archway piercing the sun-lit sky. It’s a hotel that’s known as much for its star guests (Kim Kardashian, Kylie, Mischa Barton, the list goes on) as its sheer scale. However you know it, our advice is to make the most of all its magical offerings – and if you have kids in tow, all the better. Start the day at the Lost Chambers Aquarium and

behold a dizzying array of 65,000 marine animals, before getting wet and wild at the onsite waterpark Aquaventure, home to 42 shoots and rides. Brave the Leap of Faith and you’ll shoot downwards before whizzing through an acrylic tunnel surrounded by sharks and stingrays. While the waterpark’s newest rides, in the form of The Tower of Poseidon, come with a guarantee of being the best in the UAE. Whatever age you are, you’re sure to love the resort’s Dolphin Bay too where you can get in the water and pet the friendly mammals – or even plant a kiss on their bottle-nosed faces. Later, there’s a mindboggling 20 eateries to choose from, with everything from barefoot beach

dining to suited and booted a la carte. If you want to carry on the resort’s aquatic theme you can’t go wrong with a table at Ossiano, where you can tuck into all manner of fish dishes flanked by floor-toceiling aquariums. Out of this world.

Indeed, with so much to entertain you, you may find there’s little cause to leave the resort at all…

The Offer: For the latest offers to stay at Atlantis The Palm, Dubai visit atlantisthepalm.com

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Fairmont The Palm, Dubai fairmont.com/palm

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The wow-factor afforded by the magnificent Fairmont The Palm starts from the minute you set foot inside its lobby: before you a floor-to-ceiling window exposes uninterrupted vistas of the glistening Arabian Gulf, punctuated by twinkling skyscrapers.

Opened late last year, it’s the second luxury outlet in Dubai from the famed hotel group – and while its Sheikh Zayed Road residence has long drawn expats and holidaymakers through its doors, its isle-based hotel is the pick of The Palm.

For starters, it has a palatial presence (home to 381 rooms), while its aesthetics are beach-inspired (think beige and ecru hues and granite and marble textures).

Better still, most of its guestrooms come with an outdoor balcony, so you can take a long, lazy breakfast or dinner while admiring the Arabian Sea. Upgrade to Fairmont Gold, meanwhile, and you can make the most of added benefits, from private check-in to a VIP lounge. But if you do feel like venturing out, there’s plenty to whet your appetite onsite with no less than seven restaurants and lounges. For those al fresco views, we love Seagrill on 25° Restaurant & Lounge where you can indulge in all manner of Promotion

seafood specialities. If steak’s more your thing, though, you’ll fall for its Brazilian restaurant Frevo – take your pick from 15 cuts of churrasco-style meat and let the nightly carnival music get you in the holiday mood. And when you are ready to unwind, before sinking into your sumptuous Fairmont bed, The Cigar Room is the ultimate spot in which to do so after a turn in its walk-in humidor.

The Offer: Our ‘It’s a Family Affair’ promotion sees you receive two complimentary 60-minute Spa Relaxation Massages and two, 2-hour passes for the Falcon Juniors’ Club whenever a Fairmont Grand Family room, Deluxe Grand Family Room, One Bedroom Suite or Fairmont Gold One Bedroom Suite is booked for a minimum of four consecutive nights. T&Cs apply.

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Od yssey Linda Cookson savours the flavours of the tiny Tunisian island of Djerba

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Tunisia

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y partner unwraps his present from Djerba in stunned silence.

“Well,” he says eventually.

“This is right up there with the collapsible bucket.” Ever since a friend presented him with one, gift-wrapped, for a birthday once (“I thought it would come in really handy for baling water out of the boat”), collapsible buckets have become the byword in our household for naff gifts.

‘It’s a camel,” I say, somewhat unnecessarily. “A magic camel. See the two holes – one at the top, one at the bottom? You pour the vinegar in the top, then you turn it upside down and pour the

sand coastline and million-plus palm trees – is no ordinary island. Magic is its special claim to fame. According to legend, Djerba was the land of the lotus-eaters in Homer’s Odyssey. Odysseus and his crew were so seduced by its sleepy charms, including the lotus flowers fed to them by natives, that they forgot all thoughts of home. After a mere fortnight there, I’ve returned equally enchanted.

If you’re keen to experience the real North Africa, then tiny Djerba – a source of pride to Tunisians on account of its hospitality and friendliness – is fantastic, as I soon found out. Relaxed and unthreatening, with a pretty main harbour-town clustered with blue-andwhite sugar-cube houses and an interior studded with sleepy villages, almond orchards and olive groves, it could almost be in the Greek islands. No wonder Odysseus and co felt so at home there.

Nowadays, Djerba is well prepared for the modern-day lotus-eater.In the heady days of the ‘60s it became a favourite funand frolic destination for the European film-star set (Brigitte Bardot among them), and the east coast, known as the Tourist Zone, now sports a gleaming marble forest of luxurious white palace hotels with vast sweeps of private beaches.

There are plenty of architecturally striking thalassotherapy spas, and – if you’re simply in search of a sunshine-soaked flop-out – you could easily spend your whole visit being thoroughly spoiled and pampered by engaging staff without setting foot outside your hotel gates.

It’s always good to get your bearings with a bit of glamour (or so I told myself),

In the town’s cobbled squares, people had gathered for coffee under orange trees

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olive oil in the bottom, and – this is the magic bit – nothing falls out! No leakage!

You just shake it around, and then, when you tip it, the salad dressing comes out of his mouth ready mixed. Or you can do it with drinks – coffee in the top, milk in the bottom!” He looks at me as if I’ve gone mad. “What’s the matter with just mixing stuff up in a cup?” he says. “With a spoon?”

My camel stands wonkily on the table between us, his hump sporting a dazzling yellow sun showering streams of rays, like a firework, over an acid-green splash of painted palm tree. This is no ordinary camel, I repeat firmly – just as the small Tunisian island of Djerba – with its sugarTunisia

and I arranged a shamelessly soft start with a couple of ritzy days in the opulent Hasdrubal Thalassa & Spa. But there’s so much more to Djerba than its Tourist Zone, as I happily discovered.

After 48 hours of being swaddled in seaweed, anointed with aromatic oils and scattered with rose petals, I was itching to explore the world outside – to discover Djerba’s special charms for myself, its laid-back little market towns vibrant with colour; its silent, near-biblical interior of sand, stone and sky; and the wilder, rockier bays of the north and west coasts.

Day three found me soft of skin, smelling like a rose, and rattling in a Jeep across dust tracks alongside my obliging

Many sci-fi fans head to Djerba’s ferry port of Ajim as it is where Mos Eisley, the fictional setting for the spaceport of planet Tatooine in Star Wars Episode IV: A New Hope, was filmed. Here you’ ll find the home of Chalmun’s Spaceport Cantina – in reality a traditional Berber bakery. And just a few kilometres north is an old fisherman’s house that was used as an exterior for Ben Kenobi’s hut.

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Opening page: Local spices at Houmt Souk.

This page, clockwise from top left: Pottery stall in Djerba; Potter at work; A pier in Djerba; Tunisian Sweets.

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This page: Beach scene on the Mediterranean coast in Djerbaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tourist Zone.

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Tunisia

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driver, Houssine. I’d have been fine without a guide, I’m sure (Djerba has plenty of local buses) – but hooking up with Houssine for a couple of outings proved a great way of tapping into fascinating specialist knowledge of the island’s living history. As we clattered along the north coast, heading for Houmt Souk, Djerba’s small capital, we passed tiny inlets where tobacco-chewing fishermen were loading rickety boats with date-palm leaves. The latter are used to make fishing traps, Houssine explained - the same method used by the ancient Phoenicians. That’s 3,000 years in which life has barely changed for the island’s simplest, most rustic communities. Oval terracotta amphorae, strung across the stony jaws of waterfront caves, are still used for catching octopus.

Houmt Souk was a delight, its low

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white buildings swagged with bougainvillea, laced with decorative iron grilles and moucharabiehs (latticework window screens), painted the imperial blue of a peacock’s tail. In the town’s reverberating network of cobbled squares, people had gathered for coffee under the orange trees. Affable waiters, all wearing the distinctive Djerban pointy straw hat, were weaving among

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WHERE TO STAY Yadis Imperial Beach & Spa Resort is perfect

for those seeking a beach retreat with the added bonus of a first-class spa.

An array of motorized watersports and horse riding are on hand for those so-minded, and for those who enjoy golf, an 18-hole course is just a 15-minute drive away.

Alternatively, for a more dynamic stay on the coast there’s the ultra-swanky Radisson Blu Resort and Thalasso , complete

with several delicious dining options, including Italian, Moroccan and Mediterranean cuisine.

Book at dnatatravel.com

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sun-striped tables, dispensing beakers of fresh juice. I was bowled over by how easy-going it all felt. The atmosphere was almost Parisian (perhaps unsurprisingly, since most Djerbans speak French as well as Arabic), and the squares were packed with cafes and patisseries. I made several more visits to the town, and Patisserie Ben Yedder, built on the corner of Place Farhat Hached, with its upstairs balcony for ringside views of the action, became my favourite spot: I spent hours peoplewatching, over mint tea, pain au chocolat and fantastically sticky cakes.

The feel-good factor was every bit as high in the warren of arched and vaulted passageways that forms the town’s covered market, a kaleidoscopic jumble of small stalls showcasing colourful ceramics, leatherware and other locally crafted Tunisia

goods. Cupboard-sized studios housed the looms that produce beskri, shimmering rolls of brightly striped fabric shot with real silver threads. Weavers were keen to flick their lighters to prove the

I spent hours peoplewatching over mint tea, pain au chocolat and sticky cakes silver was genuine (fake threads would catch fire). But there was no hard sell.

If your experience of souks comes from Marrakech or Istanbul, you’ll find Djerba a walk in the park.

In the meat market, at a stall painted the traditional red of Tunisian butchers’ shops, Houssine got busy haggling over a lump of lamb, before steering me expertly to the fish market – a tiled emporium, where grizzled auctioneers in white coats sat like tennis umpires on battered blue stools presiding over the sale of the day’s catch. Next to the market are two simple canteens – Chez Hanini and Restaurant Le Marché – where they’ll clean your newly purchased fish, cook it on the barbecue and serve it up with frites and spicy méchouia (grilled vegetable salad) for around US$3. As Houssine and I sat scoffing our seabass, a procession of his mates ambled by for a chat.

Djerbans don’t seem to hurry anywhere, I noticed. Perhaps it’s the heat. As if in a slow-motion film, Hzoughi, a fruit and

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was due to be manning a stall there, so we took to the road. A half-hour drive, past snowy-white mosques, roadsides edged with pomegranate bushes and silvery olive trees, took us from contemplative calm to manic hurly-burly.

All of Djerban life seemed to be surging serenely through Midoun’s vast, dusty sprawl of open-air stalls and narrow shopping avenues. Men on motorbikes were weaving through the crowds, their wives riding side-saddle with plastic bags of purchases balanced on their heads. Fish was being sold from handcarts packed with ice. Spices were dispensed from open sacks, with old tomato-purée tins pressed into service as scoops.

When a sudden gust of wind whipped up, feathery white flakes of loose onion skin whirled in thick clouds from the back

of open vegetable trucks, threatening to engulf the scene as if in a bizarre North African version of a pillow fight. It was fun and exhilarating, my most powerful memory from the island.

My fortnight was drawing to a close, and it was time to spend my last dinars.

I hovered by a stall selling rows of individual pieces from Guellala, the island’s famous pottery village. Its workshops produce some of the best original ceramic art in Tunisia, Houssine told me. A cheerful little camel caught my eye. The stallholder, a clay-spattered apron still wrapped around his waist, explained its special secret. The design originated on Djerba, he said, but is now copied all over Tunisia. Like Djerba, it was a gift. ‘That’ll be perfect,’ I said. ‘Can you wrap it up for me, please?’

Text by: Linda Cookson Photography supplied by: Getty Images; Corbis / Arabian Eye

Opposite page: Chef with fish and vegetable dish in Djerba. This page, clockwise from top: Borj el Kebir; Jars used by fishermen for octopus fishing; Pottery products in market at the Houmt Souk.

vegetable seller, approached with discs of dried figs strung around his neck like chunky necklaces.

After my spell as a sybarite in the Tourist Zone, I moved inland to the peaceful village of Erriadh and stayed at Dar Dhiafa, a photogenic boutique hotel converted, riad-style, from a run of four traditional village houses. The setting couldn’t have been more magical.

Breakfast by one of the hotel’s two smallish pools came with bowls of bsissa, a delicious halva-like mix of nuts and oil.

Night after night found me sitting in the lovely courtyard restaurant in a trance, gazing at the moon through fronds of giant palm.

We visited El Ghriba on a Friday. That’s market day in Midoun, Djerba’s second largest town. One of Houssine’s relatives

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ancing between velvet banquettes and polished Pullman lamps, the bow-tied waiters sway with the train, keeping linen forensically clean as they deliver rich beef goulash. Through the swag curtained windows on one side, we have Trencin castle on its Colditz-y perch; on the other, glassy lakes reflecting the mist-crowned Carpathian mountains. There’s all the romance of the railways, shot through with the intrigue of strangers on a train. And, of course, the Agatha Christie-ish glamour of it.

(Well, the Poirot glamour – he got deluxe tickets on the Orient Express and the Blue Train to the Riviera. Poor old Miss Marple’s rail connection was the 4.50 from Paddington.) It’s thrilling and tantalising, and bonhomie prevails. Getting from A to B (or B to K – we’re currently between Bratislava and Kraków) could be so much tougher than this.

I do like my rail travel. The city-centre arrivals. The switch-off, no-faff, let-thetrain-take-the-strain of it. The rearwindow nosiness, seeing behind the scenes of life rather than the face-to-the-world, front-door view you get from roads.

So I’m booked on the Danube Express, a hotel on rails that will take me 1,400km in a rough Z, like a mark of Zorro, drawn from the bottom up across a map of central Europe. We’ll make tracks west from the thermal spas and Danube views of Budapest, to the far end of Lake Balaton; up the diagonal to grand old Vienna, Medieval Bratislava and on to

Mrs P looks the part, with elegantly set hair, matching nails and lips, and diamonds

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Kraków; then west again to the bridges and spires of Prague. It’s the greatest hits of the Austrian Empire – I’ll get grand palaces, elegant 19th-century townhouses, highbrow cakeshops, classical waltzes and portraits of disdainful duchesses.

I’m also hoping to fill some frankly embarrassing gaps in my collection of European fridge magnets.

There’s a suitably grand start to the journey as the train’s 28 passengers assemble in the soaring, gilt-and-mirrors

Europe by rail

royal waiting room at Budapest’s Eiffel-designed Nyugati station.

Glasses are clinked, introductions are made. Poirot would be disappointed in us: featuring no obvious tycoons, dowagers or war veterans with enigmatic scars, our group is almost all 50-and 60-something, more Gore-Tex than golden age. At least Mrs Pinkerton, senior golden oldie and the only solo passenger apart from me, looks the part, with elegantly set hair, matching pink nails and lips, and diamond jewellery.

She’s chosen this four-day trip to test the train-travel water, she says – and because she doesn’t like to leave her cocker spaniel for long. Diana and Chris, smiley babyboomers from Perth, are among the few who’ve gone for the longer version: boarding the train in Istanbul,

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they travelled here via Bulgaria and Romania. Most people have had a few days in Budapest already – much smarter than my single evening of street-pounding along the river, past bewitching Art Nouveau buildings, proud statues and old-school coffeehouses.

Now, though, we’re off. My cabin isn’t quite as Orient-Express luxe as I’d imagined: panels are sensibly woodstained rather than gleaming walnut; fabrics are practical stripes rather than plush brocades. But when tour manager Mike pops in to introduce Dori, the cabin attendant, and tut over the non-regulation hangers in my wardrobette, he does point out that where the OE has bunks and end-of-corridor loos, the DE has twin, ladder-free beds and ensuites. And, I’m glad to see, an armchair in prime window side position. In the absence of wi-fi,

phone and TV, I can let Dori bring me a cuppa, and surrender to wonderful, enforced relaxation. All there is between now and lunch is scenery. Not long out of the station, indeed, come trackside drifts of poppies and speed-blurred wildflowers in yellow and blue, matching the train’s livery. Tramlines and chimney stacks give way to torpedo-shaped church spires, and the wheelbarrows and washing lines of welltended gardens.

Train manager Andrea summons us to the

On

Track

Liz Edwards pulls into the nostalgic capitals of central Europe aboard the Danube Express

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Opening page: Keleti train station in Budapest.This page from top: Chain Bridge over Danube River and parliament; Dinner on the Danube; Trencin Castle, West Slovakia. Opposite page: Deluxe compartment.

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restaurant car for lunch – deliciously creamy, Hungarian chicken Hortobágy pancakes. Banquette tables for four or two allow for easy mingling or hushed tête-à-têtes. I muscle in on Sammy and Andrea from Colorado, a friendly pair who also boarded in Istanbul. Sammy tells me of the Agatha Christie moment she had when the lounge car went pitchblack, mid-tunnel. I can tell she was disappointed there were no gunshots.

Hot on the heels of lunch is Keszthely,

by Lake Balaton, where Hungarians head on holiday. There are campsites, boat-hire outfits, crazy golf, museums of marzipan and Cadillacs. There’s even one of those cheesy miniature tourist trains, which (wince) is our transport to the Festetics Palace, ‘the country’s third-largest Baroque house’, no less.

The train, in its perfectly proportioned opulence, is the ideal warm-up act for the palaces and castles to follow. Our gaggle is guided round stucco and marquetry rooms, admiring the 90,000-book library, and the huge collection of horse-drawn carriages, gigs, traps and sleighs in the former stables.

The group-tour dynamic gears up, the gradual getting-to-know-you that goes on via snatches of mid-tour conversation, which either confound or confirm the back stories you’ve invented for your fellow passengers. Mrs P tells me about bringing up her family on an Essex farm and adjusting to her own company since widowhood – what she doesn’t like about travelling alone, she confides, is when people take pity on you.

Jack and his wife Dee (like Tony and Colette, a match made in celebrity-name heaven) are early retirees whose property portfolio has allowed them to become luxury-train aficionados. He reckons our five-berth carriages pale by comparison with the two-cabin cars of his favourite, the African Rovos Rail. He’s a big chap (at least he’ll be wedged securely in the shower when the train lurches), but it’s true the ensuites are bijou.

Europe by rail

I’d imagined chugging through the night, rocked to sleep by the train’s movements. But these distances aren’t great enough, so we’ve been stationed overnight at Györ, near Hungary’s border with Slovakia. There’s no sleeping through the ‘hello-campers’ jingle that precedes every platform announcement from dawn onwards, so making a 7.30am breakfast in the restaurant car is no problem – even if striking up jolly conversation at that hour definitely is.

With no passport checks to mark the borders (that Schengen treaty was such a killjoy), it’s unclear when we leave Hungary, but the wind farms, neat log piles and differently pointy spires suggest we might be in Austria. And here’s Vienna station, where the passengers are plumper, more prosperous-looking than those found at Budapest’s.

Quick smart, we’re off the train, through pouring rain and on a coach for the whirlwindiest city tour I’ve ever taken.

Our guide, Reinhard, is as Viennese as I could have imagined, from his Orson Welles-round face to his Third Man trenchcoat. Quickfire, he points out the glorious gold-filigree-domed Secession centre of arts, the red-star-and-verdigris Volkstheater, the Greek-style parliament, the Museum of Fine Arts, the spiky Gothic town hall, the Ringstrasse, where burghers built their mansions (and golden arches reveal the other burgers now in occupation). If only all ring roads were as fetching. But pausing – whew – at

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traffic lights next to sodden horse-drawn carriages, we also get Reinhard’s cheerily dour philosophical asides (‘we have a problem of time – as we do generally in modern life’), and his insider’s analysis of the ‘sensual’ Viennese character (‘we love coffeehouses, the opposite of the infernal place of alienation that is the office’), so we’re rewarded with more than just a postcard impression of Vienna.

We do manage a brief spell on foot around Hof burg, the grandiloquent citywithin-a-city that once thrummed with the machinery of Austrian Imperialism.

Now it whirrs with the machinery of tourism, groups snapping pics of Napoleon-hatted equestrians from the centuries-old Spanish Riding School.

Not that I’m in any position [take a dig] at sightseeing groups. On this trip, we are the tourist horde. It gets even more scrummage-y at Schönbrunn palace, Vienna’s equivalent of Versailles, a 10-minute coach ride away. But this is

I surrender to wonderful, enforced relaxation

where being a horde comes into its own.

Instead of joining the queue, we are swept through, Reinhard’s raised umbrella our fast-track ticket. OK, we don’t get to linger in the Rococo ballroom, over the Chinese lacquer-work or under the Bohemian crystal chandeliers, but I bet the audio guides don’t have Reinhard’s throwaway lines that tickle Dixie and Randall from Texas so. Beneath the splendid Mughal cartouches of the Millions Room, he tells us of the Imperial love of all things aristocratic and exotic – though ‘there were no colonies – too much work. Better to go to the coffeehouse...’

Not for us, though – we’ve another country to fit in today. On to Bratislava, Slovakia’s capital and, for 250 years until 1783, Hungary’s, too. Its hilltop castle commands views of the Danube and border-country: we see clearly where forested, wind-turbined Austria ends, and grey, Soviet-apartment-blocked Slovakia begins. But unpromisingly drab suburbs make the well-preserved Old Town even more of a revelation. Relief ripples through the group – it really is a stunner.

Pedestrianised streets of fancy-spired towers and pastel-shaded, russet-tiled buildings are perfect for gentle drifting, so I’m not unhappy when we’re released with an hour to call our own. After the Hungarian chef ’s two-course lunches and three-course dinners I’m hardly

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This page, clockwise from left: Polandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Tatra Mountains; Festetics Palace, in Keszthely, Hungary; Gerbeaud Restaurant in Vaci Utca, Budapes. Opposite page: Sitting room at Festetics Palace.

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starving, so it’s plain greed that leads me to Kaffee Mayer in the large cinnamonscented central square: in the background, fountains and wrought-iron balconies, in the foreground, tea and a chestnutty, creamy cake the size of my fist. Beyond the torte-stuffed counter within is Art Deco splendour and sweet-toothed locals young families, newspaper-readers, grown men with their mothers. This is the central Europe I’d pictured.

And it’s given me back a taste for exploring under my own steam. On day three, in Kraków, our 8.15am start coincides with a downpour, so I see the advantage of the plastic-sheeted electric

truant. I can pause for breath. Now I start to notice the pretzel (obwarzanki) stalls on every corner. The local predilection for clumsy hair-dye jobs. The Pope-abilia all over town (Karol Wojtyla was Kraków’s archbishop before he became John Paul II).

‘My own pace’ back to the station, through leafy Planty Park and the Medieval Old Town, inevitably includes the Renaissance Cloth Hall, the world’s best-looking souvenir shop. I’ve already amassed quite a haul of tat – foolishly withdrawing currency in each country, I’ve felt obliged to spend it in the gift shops on hand – but the folky embroidery

Text by: Liz Edwards Photography supplied by: Corbis / Arabian Eye; Supplied

I may live to regret it, but stepping out into the sunshine, I feel deliciously truant

golf buggies we’re corralled into. On the other hand, they come with pre-recorded commentary that brooks no questions and falls confusingly out of sync with the sights that we can’t really see through the rain-sploshed canopy. So the on-foot tour of Wawel Castle is an improvement. Kate Bush-y guide Krystyna takes us into its black-marble-fest cathedral, leads us up the tower to touch the Sigismund bell for good luck, and shows us the whale bone once thought to be a dragon’s.

After lunch, I decide to bow out of the afternoon excursion to the Wielicza Salt Mine. I may live to regret it, but stepping out into the sunshine, I feel deliciously

and wooden toys certainly exert strong gravitational pull.

I’m glad to rejoin the other passengers on the train for our final evening, clinking glasses to a piano accompaniment in the lounge bar, and hearing about the 400odd steps down to the salt mine.

But I’m also glad that tomorrow, in Prague, I’ll have another solo morning before my flight home. I’ve loved the golden-age train thing, and I’ve loved covering so much ground in company and comfort. As for the guided tours, they certainly have their advantages. But next time I’ll ration my intake. Too many can be murder.

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FINE

CHINA Malcolm Moore celebrates the laid-back city of Chengdu where pandas, and not celebrities, are the focus of gossip...

“If cities were people, Chengdu would be a happy drifter with a complete lack of ambition.

Chengdu’s soft dialect melts your ear. It’s said it can make a person’s anger dissolve instantly.

Chengdu people are famous idlers. Feet stretched out in a rattan chair with a glass of tea, or at the mah-jong table, their lives are but a fleeting dusk” From ‘Leave me Alone’,

by Murong Xuecun.

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People’s Republic of China

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This page: A waitress serves customers at the 100-year-old teahouse Guanyinge in Peng county, central Chinas Sichuan province,

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This page clockwise from top left: A pagoda tea house; Sweet snacks sold by vendors; Latticecovered window open to garden at Yiyuan Teahouse; Men in teahouse; Women in traditional Chinese dress; Chengdu traffic; Smoker at a tea room; Giant pandas in Wolong; A cup of tea.

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Peopleâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Republic of China

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t the teahouse behind the Great Mercy Temple, Shen Xulu’s eyes shine brightly as he tells one of his favourite stories from Chengdu’s history. It is about a battle from 1,805 years ago, when Chengdu was the capital of the kingdom of Shu and fighting for its survival.

The wiry 70-year-old pensioner, himself a former soldier posted on the border between India and Tibet, sits on the edge of his bamboo chair as he tells the tale, tapping the table to underline the key moments and playing out the cut and thrust of war with his arms.

“After the battle, the king was routed and split from his wife and child,” says Mr Shen. “One of his generals went to find them and he strapped the infant to his chest under his breastplate.

“Seven times he charged the enemy before breaking through their lines! Finally he returned the boy to the king. But the king threw the child on the ground, cursing that his general’s life had been risked. The general was deeply moved. This is what we think of as loyalty.”

Behind Mr Shen, the courtyard is filled with the hum of dozens of other conversations, the crackling of newspaper pages and the gurgle of hot water being poured into the Chinese tea cups on every table.

An easy rhythm settles over the teahouse. As the mint–green Thermos flasks on each table are poured, puffs of steam rise up and catch the sun filtering down

The daily ritual of stopping in a teahouse began 1,000 years ago

through the long swathes of dark–green canvas hung above for shade.

“We come here every day,” chip in two other pensioners, holding up their bus passes and using the lids of their tea cups to stir up the palegreen leaves.

“It is relaxing. We are neighbours and we have been drinking tea together for 30 years.”

The daily ritual of stopping in at a teahouse to meet friends and pick up gossip began in Chengdu at least 1,000 years ago and little has changed: there has always been a teahouse on every corner.

The era of the Three Kingdoms (Shu was central, with Wei to the north and Wu to the south) is Chengdu’s equivalent of Arthurian legend, an age of dashing knights and epic battles, of cavalry charges and siege towers.

Today, with Etihad Airways flying direct to Chengdu, pandas are the city’s main attraction. The breeding base is just a short taxi ride away, and it is worth going at dawn when China’s ‘national treasures’ are most active.

There are panda stickers on the green taxis, panda hats and plush toys in every tourist area, and even strange and avant-garde public sculptures, interpretations of pandas in steel and bronze.

But while pandas are guaranteed to please

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This page: Relaxing at a 100-year-old teahouse in Chengdu.

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Life in Chengdu is timeless.

We would rather talk than fight

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Critically endangered, giant pandas have lived on earth for up to three million years but are sadly on the brink of extinction, with just over 1,000 left in the world.

In the wild, their life span is around 20 years and they are born with circular eyespots that become teardrop shaped as they age.

families, it is worth stepping back along the vivid arc of Chengdu’s history. Much, of course, has been destroyed, both by the madnesses of Chairman Mao and then by the modern madnesses of the city’s economic boom.

“The old palace of Shu used to stand in the centre of the city,” says Mr Shen. But then the Cultural Revolution broke out. “I remember when they knocked it down. It was August 1967, and I was on leave from the army, visiting home.

“They smashed it and built a memorial hall for Chairman Mao. The moat around the palace was turned into an air-raid shelter. Most of us felt ashamed of the destruction. If we still had it, it would have been a real marvel”.

A few years later, the old city walls were also torn down, another relic of the past deemed useless by the Maoists. What the Red Guards left untouched has been reconfigured more recently, transforming ancient lanes into wide boulevards, lined with shining towers of glass and steel.

One of the only remaining old lanes in the city sits off Shuijing Road, behind the towering Shangri–La hotel and close to an ancient distillery.

Outside, the residents play cards on small tables under the eaves of their ancient, and crumbling, buildings. But above them, a red banner spells out their future: “Be the first to sign away your lease, get your pick of the new apartments.”

In the heart of the city, one remnant from the kingdom of Shu has become a major attraction.

The Wuhou shrine is 400,000sq ft of soft mossy mounds, osmanthus blossom, rockeries full of bonsai trees and ceremonial halls that celebrate the architect of Shu’s golden era, Zhuge Liang.

The alley is worth braving for the snacks: cold rice jelly noodles with chilli and peanuts

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This page: A hawker on a bicycle selling incense sticks.

Opposite page, clockwise from top: Practising Martial Arts; A tea farmer picks green tea; Life in a traditional teahouse; Street stall selling cold cakes, steamed cake and rice balls.

People’s Republic of China

Walking down a long vermilion-walled corridor, shaded by tall bamboo on both sides, you reach a pavilion holding a golden statue of Zhuge Liang, holding his trademark fan of long feathers. The balustrade posts outside are topped with symbols of prosperity: carved stone pumpkins, pomegranates and the strange Chinese fruit called Buddha’s Hand.

If the inside of the Wuhou shrine has been carefully maintained, the streets outside have been made into a tacky tourist trap. The buildings in Jinli alley look charmingly ancient, but one houses a teahouse offering Russian pole dancing displays while another sells fried chicken.

Still, the alley is worth braving for the stalls down one part which sell Chengdu street snacks: cold rice jelly noodles topped with chilli and peanuts, steamed savoury cakes and barbecued skewers.

The key to the strength of the Shu was its abundance of wheat and rice and the Sichuan basin remains China’s breadbasket today. Chengdu’s obsession with eating has been refined over the millennia to the point where the city was named,

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WHERE TO STAY

Text by: Malcolm Moore Photography supplied by: Corbis / Arabian Eye

in 2010, as Asia’s first ‘city of gastronomy’, beating Tokyo, Hong Kong and Singapore.

In any part of the city there are carts selling dumplings on the street, or small holes in the wall serving anything from dou hua, smooth flowery bean curd drizzled in chilli and crushed spices, to roasted rabbit heads.

In the morning, locals gulp down boiled dumplings bobbing in bowls of red chilli oil or bowls of noodles topped with minced meat.

“People from Chengdu love to eat dumplings, fried buns and noodles, no particular reason why, they are just tasty,” said Xi Zhonglian, a 56-year-old noodle seller who runs a small eight-table restaurant. “We don’t actually have a name for our place,” he added.

“We just call it ‘Authentic Searing Noodles’.”

At the Long Chaoshou, or Dragon’s Dumpling restaurant on Chunxi Road, climb the stairs to the second floor, where for around Dhs55, the waitresses will deliver a banquet of tiny dishes, each one filled with a Chengdu delicacy. Or try the Old Shunxing teahouse with its grey slate floors and dark wood tables, where again an array of the city’s finest dishes is on offer, as is the chance to try a Sichuanstyle ear cleaning, and a rather less compelling floor show of dancing and Sichuan opera.

Better to sit, eat and chat, like the locals. Life in Chengdu is timeless, as Mr Shen says. “They were very civilised and elegant back in the time of Shu, and the people of Chengdu are the same today. We would rather talk than fight.”

There’s more than a touch of old-school glitz and glamour to be found at Chengdu’s only urban forest five-star hotel, WangJiang Hotel Chengdu. If you like to end the day with a singsong though, then the Tibet Chengdu Hotel could be the hotel for you. Located beside the Jinjiang River, the hotel luxury trappings plus a cool karaoke suite. Book at dnatatravel.com

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Istanbulâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Sultan Ahmed Mosque is more commonly known as the Blue Mosque owing to the brilliant blue tiles that adorn its interior walls. Inside, look out for ostrich eggs on the chandeliers, which are meant to repel spiders and thus prevent cobwebs.

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Turkey

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Iconic

TURKEY

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The whirling dance of the Mevlevi order of the dervish in Turkey is part of a Sufi ceremony, called the Sama, that involves singing, playing instruments, dancing, poetry and prayers.

Practiced by other orders too, it is said to generate religious ecstasy.

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Turkey

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The best way to view one of earthâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s natural wonders, Cappadocia, is by hot air balloon. Its chimney-like rocks, created over tens of thousands of years, once hid underground cities that were built by the first human settlers in prehistoric times.

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Summit Mount Nemrut, Turkeyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 2,134-metre-high mountain, to discover these magnificent decapitated heads of statues. They surround the site of the tomb of first-century king Anticohus I Theos of Commagene. It was only discovered in 1881.

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Turkey

Photography supplied by: Getty Images; Corbis / Arabian Eye; Shutterstock

World Traveller November // 2013

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ea rises from the sea like a skinheaded, rock tattooed beast.

Almost treeless and untamed, this is not the Greek island of sweetly whispering pines conjured by Captain Corelli or Mamma Mia! (filmed respectively in Kefalonia and Skopelos). To get here my boat has skirted the equally barren island of Makronisos, where the junta that ruled Greece some 40 years ago incarcerated its enemies. The prison island has been left unpopulated and undeveloped as a monument to those dark times. At first sight, Kea looks scarcely more welcoming, but that may well have been its saving grace.

From Lavrio, one of the ports that serves Athens, it is scarcely an hourâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s crossing to Kea. In effect the capital is within commuting distance. But somehow the island has remained below the radar of rich Athenians seeking a weekend getaway until recently. Package tourism has yet

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to make any significant impact either.

As I disembark at Vourkari there are a few small boats bobbing in the swell, a handful of sleepy tavernas, a grocery shop and a couple of bars. This, I am told, is the pulsing centre of nightlife on the island. I like Kea already.

Though it is one of the bigger islands in the Cyclades archipelago, Kea has a modest population of around 2,500. The capital, Ioulida, is not on the coast â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a precaution against marauding pirates in less lawful times. Situated in a natural amphitheatre in the mountains, Ioulida is a vertical town of stegadi buildings which seem to have grown organically into and out of each other. Narrow alleyways run through residentsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; homes as the contours take them. The steep hillsides and the random twists and turns would have posed problems for any would-be conquerors.

In early season when I visit, Ioulida still belongs to the locals, though there is a smattering of souvenir shops to suggest

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CHAIN REACTION

Hopping through the 200-island archipelago, Sankha Guha finds an enchanting region of Greece that offers a chance of beating the crowds

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As the name suggests, the Aegan cat originates from Greece’s Cycladic Islands, in the Aegan Sea. Domesticated for centuries because of the way they’ve developed, the semi-longhaired, medium-sized felines are free from most genetic diseases. They’re associated with fishing and the water and are a national treasure.

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the balance tips later in the year. The neo-classical former town hall forms one flank of the main square – its small-town ambition contrasts with the vernacular simplicity of the taverna opposite. On the terrace between these two landmarks, under a canopy of mountain ash trees, a long table is laid out. Tonight local businessman Christos is hosting a party and I am invited.

Iannis, the owner of the Ton Kalofagadon taverna, has the kind of girth that inspires confidence in a chef.

He commutes from his kitchen a few metres away bearing simple but wonderful fare – highlights include a deeply earthy beetroot salad, a fry up with egg and tomato, and roasted aubergine stuffed with minced beef. The vegetables are all grown in the rotund chef ’s garden and have been nurtured with evident pride and love.

The conversation ebbs and flows around the fortunes of Kea and Greece.

How, I wonder, did this island escape development? Christos, a semi-retired Athenian who has adopted Kea, explains that Athenians are spoilt for choice; there are other islands more conveniently situated for weekends. Kea only began to be noticed about 20 years ago, which prompted a mini construction boom. And then came “the crisis” and it all stopped.

A small black cloud seems to pass over the table. But laughter and banter reassert themselves quickly. “Life is good,” says Christos regularly and in the soft glow brought on by honest food and wine I cannot disagree.

Greece

The crisis is, however, all too apparent on a boat trip the following day. I am on my way to Karthea, one of four citystates of ancient Kea. I putter past some expensive-looking real estate perched on the west-facing cliffs, but many skeletal concrete structures are also evident, where developers have stopped work mid-project as demand has tanked.

Karthea itself presents a more noble ruin. Isolated on the southeast coast, it can only be reached by boat, on foot or on horseback. Aside from a couple of workmen and their pack animals, the site is empty. Its inaccessibility only adds to a brooding sense of mystery. Not much remains of the Temple of Athena, dating from the 6th century BC, or the other buildings of the Akropolis, but their location on a ridge that commands the twin bays of Mikres and Megales Poles on either side is evocative.

I close my eyes and try to imagine the deserted beaches as busy ports two and half millennia ago.

On the western flank of the Akropolis a 2,000-capacity theatre has been discovered. The site is being excavated in carefully defined rectangular plots.

Within these deep trenches, the recently exposed tiers of seating are eerily wellpreserved – as if awaiting the arrival of a ghostly audience.

Opening page: Oia, Santorini. This page: Boats in harbour at Livadi. Opposite page, clockwise from left: Aegiali Bay view from Ambrosia Restaurant at Aegialis Hotel Spa; the hotel’s Standard Room; Relaxing on Serifos Island; Aegialis Hotel Spa swimming pool and view on Aegiali Bay.

On the ferry to Syros, reassuring humps of land are always in clear sight. You are never truly out at sea in the Cyclades – there are more than 200 islands in the group. Many are little more than rocks, but on this crossing the substantial outlines of Kithnos, Serifos, Gyaros, Andros and Tinos keep us company, their profiles changing with our approach and the angle of the sun.

Ermoupoli, the capital of Syros, is something of a shock after the somnolent pace of Kea. Seen from the sea, the density of buildings tumbling from the hills seems jarringly at odds with the promise of island-hopping. There are numerous

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sizeable churches (both Orthodox and Catholic), docks, shipyards, strutting civic buildings, hotels, banks and office blocks.

The city is the administrative capital of the region and has a population of more than 20,000.

Overwhelmed by the noise and hyperactivity, I drive out of town, quickly climbing the central spine of the island.

Instantly as I go over the hump normal service is resumed. Kini on the west coast is a fishing village with a handful of waterfront tavernas and a low density

scaled-down about the pool and terrace, which have glorious sunset views over the tight arc of Kini Bay and beyond to the receding blues of the Aegean.

Iannis and Nikos offer to show me around on their boat. It’s an overcast afternoon and though the water is robbed of its luminosity, it is nevertheless crystalclear. I pass numerous pebbly beaches with no sign of human activity. It is hard to square such conditions with the buzzing town just a few miles away.

At the southern cliffs of Galissas Bay,

My cup of joy overflows when I find Thalassa Mou in nearby Piso Aliki sprawl of maybe 50 traditional glowing white houses.

I am staying at Pino di Loto, a new development of just four apartments on the Rigouzzo family plot. They’re keeping it small and personal. Mum and dad can be seen fetching, carrying or doing odd jobs, while daughter (and manager) Terezdina fusses around guests like an indulgent mother hen. My room is simply and tastefully furnished. Despite the homespun ambience there is nothing

I am dropped at the mouth of a vast cave.

Rough steps carved from the bedrock lead to the 13th-century chapel of Agios Stefanos. In this wild and lonely spot, all that is missing is the presence of a bearded hermit to complete the time warp. I clang the bell as visitors are urged to do. The peals echo out to sea and are answered by a blast from the fog horn on Iannis’s boat waiting below.

Later I return to the populated side of the island to loiter around Ano Syros –

WHERE TO STAY For old-school comfort complete with luxe trappings, opt for the four-star townhouse that is Vourlis Mansion , just a short stroll to the centre of Ermoupolis and a private beach. If you fancy a spa break then there’s the Aegialis Hotel Spa in the central of Amorgos. No two guest rooms are decorated the same way but all have private balconies or patios with beach and city views. Book at dnatatravel.com

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as a colossal ice-cream gateau.

The final island of the trip is Paros – the only one of the three that is substantially developed for volume tourism. Even here, especially pre-season, it is possible to lose the crowds. Paros has a gentler and more accessible coast compared to Kea and Syros. The beaches in the south are some of the most benign and family friendly in the Cyclades, offering the perfect opportunity to chill at the end of an island-hopping adventure.

Faragas Beach is small and discreet; there is no development here apart from some private villas. The iridescent water has a Caribbean intensity as the gently shelving sandy floor tilts almost indiscernibly towards the deep. Teenagers play ball games on the waterline, people frolic in the bath-like shallows, children explore the rocky outcrops and a solitary yacht undulates a hundred metres offshore.

This page from top left: Mother cat with kitten, Cyclades islands; Agios Sostis Monastery, Kea Island; Windmill in Chora

My cup of joy overflows when I find Thalassa Mou in nearby Piso Aliki. The restaurant is on a beach, but it is Anna Kouda and her chef husband Mario who are making waves here – collecting rave reviews since they opened last year.

Their modern take on taverna fare is a revelation. For example, Mario reworks dakos – a traditional Cretan mezze – by crushing desiccated barley rusk to create the base layer, which is topped with tongue-tingling home-grown cherry tomatoes and goat’s cheese made by his mother. The dish is best eaten fresh at the tables under the tamarisk plants at the water’s edge.

On the balcony at the Poseidon Hotel in Chrissi Akti I watch a squadron of swallows swoop in and perform an exquisite aerobatic display in the vast theatre of sea and sky. The hotel occupies a headland at one end of the Bay of Drios. The beach curves south in an impressive crescent. It has been named unimaginatively but with admirable precision – Golden Beach.

As the sun descends, a sea mist rises from the water along the base of the other visible islands, which appear to be floating on clouds. Naxos is to my left. Drionisi, a tiny rock on the map, acts as a breakwater to the bay. Over the shoulder of Drionisi is the hump of Irakleia. In the distance I can just make out the elongated strip of Ios and to its right Sikinos. They feel just like family.

Text by: Sankha Guha / The Independent / The Interview People Photography supplied by: Corbis / Arabian Eye; Supplied

another Cycladic town built inland on a steep-sided hill to deter wannabe invaders.

It is referred to as the island’s second town but it has been all but swallowed up by the conurbation of Ermoupoli. The alleyways here are even more densely jumbled than those of Kea’s capital but the concentration of large churches, monasteries and museums on the hill are indicators of Ano Syros’s size and sophistication.

Despite the complexity of the lanes, it is hard in the end to get lost. The only way is up if you’re starting at the bottom – or vice versa. Every corner turned reveals new and striking colour palettes – cobalt, terracotta, mint-green, duckegg blue, cream and white. Ano Syros is good enough to eat. Some walls are even textured like nougat and as I trudge upwards the splashes of bougainvillea take on the attributes of raspberry syrup. In the heat I am re-imagining the entire citadel

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Concierge

Image: Self-Portrait, Prayer Rugs, by Afra bin Dhaher, courtesy of Galeri Zilberman

Inside Information

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Abu Dhabi’s artistic awakening The UAE capital is celebrating the fifth anniversary of its aptly named art fair, Abu Dhabi Art, this month with an even bigger, even busier line-up than ever before. Taking place at Saadiyat Island from November 20-23, soon to be home to Louvre Abu Dhabi and the Guggenheim, it is preparing to welcome 50 of the world’s leading galleries – including works by the likes of Damien Hirst and Anish Kapoor. abudhabiartfair.ae

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November // 2013

1. Prague So dedicated is the Czech Republic’s capital to all things festive that its markets even open on Christmas Day (and last until mid-January). Don your woollies and make for the main events in the Old Town and Wenceslas Square.

Here you can gobble local tid bits (we love Trdelnik, a hot sugary pastry) while kids can head to the Old Town stable to pat sheep, goats and a token donkey. But don’t go anywhere before 5pm – the hour the Christmas tree (shipped in from the Krkonose Mountains yearly) is switched on to glitter against a Gothic skyline.

SIX of the BEST…

Festive Markets

And while you’re here…

Seek out Republic Square and Havel’s Market where smaller, but no less charming, markets gather with wares.

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2. Munich If you crave tradition over commercialism, Munich’s Marienplatz market (one of 20 city-wide) is just the place.

Dating to the 14th century, locals go to great efforts to preserve its roots: gifts are classically Bavarian (think wood carvings or glassware) and treats traditional (gingerbread and marzipan figurines). Adults should keep a keen ear for the alpine concert, which sings out from Munich’s Town Hall daily,

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while little ones can make a beeline for the Hall’s workshop where wings and dresses wait to turn them into little angels – for a time at least…

And while you’re here…

Munich’s international airport has a festive market complete with ice-skating – so get there early on your way home.

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4. Naples

3. Copenhagen If Greenland is the home of Santa Claus, then surely Denmark is one of the most festive places on the planet?

Make for its capital, then, where Tivoli Christmas Market (November 15 to December 31) takes on a carnival-worthy form. Candle-lit walkways spill out with candy-coloured stalls selling authentic trinkets while the lake puts on a vibrant light show. Elsewhere, pebernødder (cookies), æbleskiver (doughnut-like bites) and funnel cakes will tug at your tastebuds and kids can make the most of on-site pony rides.

And while you’re here…

Christmas tables at Royal Copenhagen (November 16 to December 24) is one of the city’s most popular Yule-time events, so why not take a look?

Visit royalcopenhagen.com

Come December this ancient, faith-driven city spares no excess. An essential sight is the Via San Gregorio Armeno, a street that becomes jampacked as passers-by make for the artisan workshops to buy handmade nativity figures and adornments. So animated are the vendors here that some come dressed as shepherds. If you’re in Naples for the festive season then join the throngs of locals at the yuletide food market Porta Nolana. You won’t find chestnuts or candy canes here, though, rather endless supplies of fresh seafood – a staple ingredient of the classic Neapolitan Christmas Eve dinner.

And while you’re here…

Head to a pasticceria and stuff your loved-ones’ Christmas stockings with local goodies, like honey-soaked struffoli, chocolate-dipped mustaccioli and nutty roccocò. Superb.

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Photography supplied by: Corbis / Arabian Eye

November // 2013

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5. Vienna

6. Budapest

Ever since Albrecht I granted ‘Krippenmarkt’ (that’s a December market to you and I) in 1298, the Viennese have seen fit to carry on the festive tradition. Happily for us, there’s now 20 official markets to choose from. Whichever one you head to, expect the frosty air to be filled with comforting wafts of candied fruits, cinnamon-rich tipples and roasted chestnuts, all served up from doll house-like stalls. But, if we had to pick one, it would have to be The Viennese Christmas Market (christkindlmarkt.at) before the iconic City Hall, whose palatial façade creates the perfect fairytale feel.

If we could offer one tip it would be to head to Vörösmarty Square on an empty stomach: some 120 stalls serve up local delicacies, among them kürtös kalács (a baked pastry dunked in ground walnut and chocolate), bread pizza (baked in a clay oven) and roasted chestnuts. Elsewhere, hot Hungarian fare includes cabbage stuffed in roasted goose thigh, but gourmands won’t want to miss the open kitchens that encircle the Vörösmarty Statue and, among other things, show how to make strudel.

And while you’re here…

And while you’re here…

Catch the International Advent Caroling at City Hall from November 29 to December 22 (Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays only).

Concierge

The Christmas Chamber Concert on the evening of December 25 is this year set in the enchanting Danube palace – and if that won’t get you in the festive spirit, nothing will…

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Dusit Thani Abu Dhabi

Something for the Weekend Why go?

Thailand is renowned for its gracious hospitality and this is an opportunity to experience that without an arduous plane journey. The hotel’s gone tp great lengths to ensure you won’t lose any of the warm Arabian grandeur that makes a luxury stay in the Emirates so exciting too.

I need to unwind. Is this a good place to head?

Absolutely. You may be in the heart of Abu Dhabi’s business and government district but here the pace is as relaxed as you choose to make it. Head to the 19th floor and you’ll find yourself in a haven of calm at Namm Spa where, cocooned in one of eight Thai-inspired treatment rooms, you’d be a fool not to let a

Thai masseuse wring those knots out before enjoying a rejuvenating facial or body treatment.

Nice. Where do you suggest for dinner?

Well it’d be a shame to stay at one of the country’s finest Thai hotels and not indulge in the seriously good Thai fare on offer at its signature restaurant, Benjarong. There’s more than a nod to vintage Thai ambience here: bathed in candlelight, we dare you not to enjoy the unique dishes of the restaurant’s expert Bangkok chef.

Of course, there are times when you just want an old-fashioned steak in a setting as modern as the hotel it’s set within and The Capital Grill – run by a superb Australian chef – is perfect for that. If you’re around on a Friday,

the Wok With Me Friday Brunch, held at its lobby-level Urban Kitchen eatery, is perfect for families with big appetites: think live wok stations, rotisserie, pizza arena and as much cheese as you can handle.

And how about the best room?

If you want to splash the cash then the Royal Suite is definitely the best room in the house: 450 square metres of plush interiors and the finest amenities. A butler service means your every whim will be catered for, a rain shower provides the perfect place to wash away a day in the city, and there’s even a relaxation area for those in need of some silent contemplation. Plus, the views of the city are spectacular.

Is there much to do in the daytime there?

WIN! Fancy discovering the many charms of Dusit Thani Abu Dhabi for yourself? Well we’re offering you the chance to enjoy a weekend here. You and a partner will stay here for two nights (breakfast included), enjoying a dinner at Benjarong and a delicious couple’s Thai massage at the Namm Spa. To win this magnificent prize just answer this question: What type of cuisine does Benjarong serve?

Just email: easywin@ hotmediapublishing. com before November 30. Good luck!

Concierge

Plenty. If you’re an active person then you’ll make good use of the DFiT health centre on the hotel’s 19th floor. There’s an outdoor pool that’s temperature controlled so whatever the weather you can enjoy a dip there or in the Jacuzzi. And, ever developing, Abu Dhabi has plenty to keep you entertained – just ask the concierge for advice.

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A WORLD AWAY If you’ve never visited Global Village, you’re missing out. Here are three reasons why:

Live music & performances

Raffles Prize Whether you’re an art enthusiast or simply someone who appreciates pretty things, then you won’t want to stray far from Raffles Dubai this month.

The luxury hotel is hosting a million dollar art exhibition that focuses on the finest contemporary Spanish art from the 19th and 20th century. Showcasing the rich culture and artistic traditions of Spain, between November 7 and 13, paintings and sculptures by renowned artists such as Juan Munoz, Francis Picabia, Antonio Saura and Cristina Iglesias (worth between $200,000 and $1.6 million each) can be found in the hotel lobby, alongside unique works contributed to the exhibition by the Miraj Islamic Centre.

World-wide wares

Funfair rides

FRENCH FANCY Foodies looking to learn from the best should test their mettle at a master class with Michelin-starred chef Gilles Choukroun, who is visiting Sofitel Bahrain from November 5 to 8.

Alternatively, taste his genius by ordering from a series of set menus prepared by him during his visit.

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> An exclusive new five-piece capsule collection, launched this month by Mulberry and Mr Porter, includes this compact Clipper holdall in blue – perfect for weekend breaks.

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Graphically speaking

Paris With

No buildings in Paris can exceed six stories “pour que tout le monde ait du soleil” (so that everyone can have sunshine).

8.5M

60,600

Paris earned the nickname “City of Lights” for two reasons: due to the enlightened artists, writers and sculptors who made Paris home and the fact that the city was one of the first to display public street lamps along its avenues.

people visiting its

square metres annually,

The

With over a million graves, Pere-Lachaise Cemetery is one of the most famous in the world.

Louvre is the world’s most visited museum

18 arrondissement 8 arrondissement 1 arrondissement

5 arrondissement

14 arrondissement

The

is

BANGKOK: 15.98M

LONDON: 15.96M

PARIS: 13.92M

SINGAPORE: 11.75M

2m

NEW YORK: 11.52M

4m

ISTANBUL: 10.37M

6m

*UN World Tourism Organization

to build

8m

DUBAI: 9.89M

2 years 2 months 5 days

10m

BARCELONA: 8.41M

FEET TALL and took

12m

KUALA LUMPUR: 9.2M

1,063

Most visited cities 2013*

14m

HONG KONG: 8.72M

Eiffel Tower

16m

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Photography supplied by: Getty Images

November 2013

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1-2

5

6-17

15-17

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Mexico’s remembrance of its departed, the Day of the Dead (Dia de Muertos), is celebratory rather than depressing and fascinating to behold. You’ll see skeletons and skulls made of chocolate, marzipan or papiermâché at shops and doorways decorated with yellow marigolds, as well as funfairs and snacks.

Every year the Brits gather en masse at locations across the country to enjoy firework displays and light huge bonfires in memory of an historic attempt

by Guy Fawkes, in the 17th century, to blow up the London’s Houses of Parliament.

One of India’s great spectacles, the five-day Pushkar Camel Fair sees as many as 300,000 people and up to 20,000 camels, cattle and horses gather in the small Rajasthan town for far more than trading: including longest moustache competitions and exhibition cricket matches. Fun.

The Surin Elephant round-up in Thailand is an unforgettable sight. The strength and beauty of elephants, historically used as working animals in Thailand, is celebrated in the festival, which sees them fed fruits by the crowds.

Every year in Lingsar, Indonesia thousands of tourists and locals gather for one of the world’s most fun food fights, the Perang Topat, or rice cake war.

Aiming to foster tolerance and unity, Balinese Hindus and Sasak Wetu Telu Muslims follow weeks of prayer and planning with a three-night topat ‘war’.

If you’re a fan of jazz, or even if you’re not, the eighth edition of Monte-Carlo Jazz Festival promises to be spectacular. Held at the prestigious Salle de Garnier at the Opéra MonteCarlo, expect the very best of jazz: including the legendary Maceo Parker, James Brown’s former collaborator.

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Where to Stay Delano South Beach (morganshotelgroup.com) With its Philippe Starck interiors, the ocean-facing Delano is a slick showcase of soaring ceilings, stark white, colour pops, plus hip hangouts that include a sushi bar and first-rate Italian restaurant, Bianca, serving the likes of seafood squid ink tagliolini and seared swordfish.

The Ritz-Carlton, South Beach (ritzcarlton.com) Those who want to marry luxury with original Art Deco-style can do so right here on Lincoln Road: the hotel sets up home in a restored, original 1953 Morris Lapidus-designed building, making it a city landmark. Perks include gourmet dining, a superb spa, plus your pick of 375 rooms.

Art Deco Miami The former citrus farming town is now a city bursting with zesty aesthetics.

Laura Binder enjoys the spectacle…

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Fast, fun and candycoloured, Florida’s famed southeastern city can be seen in full swing along the Atlantic Coast’s bright blue sea. Miami is a place that pulsates with celeb culture, exudes Caribbean and Latin flavours and parades everything from hot pink Cadillacs to swaying palms and well-oiled muscles.

But it’s here that you can also get an eyeful of Art Deco aesthetics that make this slice of the States as famous as Mickey Mouse.

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Perhaps it’s the stretches of white sand that make the sherbet shades of South Beach’s Art Deco district really pop: saunter down its sun-soaked strips and you’ll see bright white builds with candy pink stripes or all-out paint jobs in periwinkle, peach and turquoise. Such Deco design has not only earned Miami the nickname of ‘Art Deco Playground’ but has seen it star in many a Hollywood hit, not least the iconic Scarface.

Today, though, it has architects as agog as filmmakers. Popularised in 1920s Paris, the Art Deco wave hit Miami in the ‘30s and ‘40s as part of a second stream of design dubbed Streamline Moderne.

The result is a tropical look that flaunts flamboyant hues and makes nods to the nautical. Love it or loath it, it’s impossible to ignore. And who would want to? After years of neglect, some 800 buildings

Hotel Victor (hotelvictorsouthbeach. com) Born out of Miami’s Art Deco heyday, this historic bolthole was remade by Parisian designer Jacques Garcia and today is all about muted tones and chic décor (so you can take a break from all that neon). What’s more, every room has an ocean view. were granted a spot on the National Register of Historic Places in 1979, a mission spearheaded by the Miami Design Preservation League. To take a tour of the area, then, the league’s Art Deco Welcome Center is a good place to start.

Here you can make the most of guided tours, maps, information and plenty of paraphernalia (bright and bold, naturally).

If you prefer to go it alone, South Beach and Miami Beach are the places to seek out, along with Ocean Drive, Collins Avenue and Washington Avenue – a trio of parallel streets. You can pick up self-guided audio tours narrated by local historians and architects at the Art Deco Welcome Center too, which will turn the streets into museums. Opt for a night tour and you can do the trail under a haze of neon lights. Alternatively, why not zip around town on a bright yellow, three-

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CONCIERGE Getting around Taxis can be hailed off the street here and flat and metred rates apply. If you prefer to do the driving, getting around in a rental car is fairly easy – though rush hour traffic applies, as does a constant stream of cars along Ocean Drive in high season (time for some serious posing). Unlike the likes of LA, though, Miami is designed to be walk-able, so much of it can be seen by foot.

Eduardo Rosello, of the InterContinental Miami, picks the best of Miami’s glorious beaches…

Language

South Beach Occupying one of the best and most highly sought-after beachfront locations in the world, South Beach is not only known for its crystal clear waters, but also for its colourful lifeguard huts (pictured) donated by architect William Lane in the aftermath of Hurricane Andrew. This is also where you can find the very best in water sports.

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English is the mother tongue of this American city, but those with a flair for Spanish can make use of it too thanks to Miami’s generous Latin population.

Photography supplied by: Corbis / Arabian Eye and hotels where stated

Text by: Laura Binder

Key Biscayne From Crandon Park to Bill Baggs Cape Florida, Key Biscayne offers more than six miles of sandy beaches. Stretching along the east coast of the sleepy island, Bill Baggs Cape Florida and its historic lighthouse include a lifeguard beach, baseball fields and even an outdoor skating rink.

Oleta River State Park Florida’s largest urban park, Oleta River, offers a variety of recreational opportunities including 1,200 feet of sandy beaches and saltwater fishing. Best known for miles of off-road bicycle trails, mangrove forest with plants and wildlife.

1. The Ritz-Carlton, South Beach

wheeled buggy? Fixed with a GPS, it will tell you where to go and relay key details as you scoot by the streets.

If you miss anything off the list, make sure it’s not Ocean Drive – a must to get the full assault of Miami’s colourful cafes, bars and hotels, not to mention its rather vibrant characters. Keep eyes peeled for Lincoln Road too – its shops offer up an aptly eclectic mix, from antiques and modern art to boutiques and the biggest chain names.

If you want to immerse yourself in the cultural flavours of the Art Deco region (Miami’s considered to be the world’s most Latin city north of Mexico), Plaza De España is the spot: home to boutiques, cafes and a weekend market, it was thought up by architect Robert Taylor in

1925 after he was tasked with designing a Spanish-style village by Miami Beach developer NBT Roney. It’s like a soupedup Madrid…

The Tower Theatre in Little Havana, meanwhile, dates to 1926 and is one of Miami’s oldest cultural landmarks. Bought by the city, it was added to the National Register as a historic site in the ‘90s and, after a major renovation, is now back to its Deco-glory and serving as an artistic hub, showing everything from films to exhibits by leading Cuban artists.

Back on South Beach, muscles will flex, lifeguard huts explode in pops of pink and lime, palms sway and the bronzed and beautiful hit the waves in bright bikinis and too-tight shorts. In Art Deco Miami, your camera won’t stop clicking…

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From the steep, cobbled streets of its historic old town to the breathtaking beauty of its lake and the umpteen elite jewellery, watch and fashion boutiques that lay between them: Geneva’s aesthetic supremacy has long attracted visitors from the Middle East, keen to revel in its chic environs. Just remember to pack plenty of warm knits if you’re heading there this month, it’s been known to snow in November…

Geneva on foot If you’re looking to stretch your legs then the ever chic and historically important city of Geneva, Switzerland, is the perfect place to do so. With so much to see, WT reveals which of its historical pavements are worth pounding…

Everything that’s great about Europe – striking architecture, extraordinary scenery, a rich history and enchanting food – can be found in this small but perfectly formed city; and the best way to explore it is on foot.

We recommend the headquarters of the International Committee of the Red Cross (ICRC) as a jumping off point: not only is this landmark organisation intrinsically linked to the city’s proud humanitarian history (today Geneva is a hub for international ngos working according to the Geneva Conventions, inspired by the ICRC’s founder Henry Dunant), but it’s also where you’ll find the 25-year-old International Red Cross and Red Crescent Museum. It reopened this summer, having undergone a facelift, and new touches make it even more poignant.

From here, cross Avenue de la Paix and head down its gently sloping hill towards Place des Nations, the headquarters of the United Nations in Europe. As you do so you’ll see the Ariana Museum, a.k.a. the Swiss Museum of Ceramics and Glass, on your left. The exterior of this Neo-Classical- and New Baroque-inspired 19th-century building is as beautiful as the centuries of ceramic history and glass production that lay encased within it. As

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As ski season descends, Nicolas Avril, of the InterContinental Geneva, shares his pick of the best ski destinations within easy reach of the city.

Verbier I recommend this beautiful village in the Valais region (pictured opposite page, bottom). Some 1,500 meters high it’s just a 90-minute train ride from Geneva. First choice for celebrities and royal families, the downtown area is packed with shops and restaurants that can satisfy a young international crowd and visitors keen to discover the authenticity of the Swiss Alps. Despite this bustling town centre and top-notch sports installations, it is still possible to revisit Verbier’s past. You can learn about the old traditions of cheese making and take some local “Tomme” home. Moreover, a walking tour of the surrounding charming hamlets will allow you to see beautiful chalets, old windmills and chapels.

1. Mandarin Oriental Geneva Hotel you walk the grand gravelled entrance, you’ll likely spot a bronze statue of Mahatma Ghandi too – a gift from India .

A few hundred metres further down the hill, at Place des Nations, a dramatic row of world flags let you know in no uncertain terms that you’ve reached the UN’s European headquarters. Book in advance and you can take a tour of

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its historic buildings, but there’s plenty more to admire in this area, including the 12-jet fountain in the square’s centre that is said to represent the passing of time, and the Broken Chair – a colossal wooden three-legged sculpture that Handicap International initially erected in August 1997 and which today stands as a symbolic reminder of the danger cluster munitions pose.

From Place des Nations, continue down towards Route de Lausanne. On your way you’ll pass Geneva’s Botanical Gardens, established in 1902. You’ll need to dedicate a good couple of hours to cover the bulk of its grounds, which include exotic plant greenhouses, a fine Alpine garden and a small animal enclosure.

When you’re done, cross Route de Lausanne to hit the lakeside path. At any time of year but particularly on a crisp winter’s day, with the sun reflecting off the glassy water, the views are mesmerising: look out for the majestic snow-capped peaks of Mont Blanc.

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For the best of old Geneva, you’ll need to cross the Mont Blanc Bridge next.

On doing so you’ll immediately venture upon two more iconic city landmarks: the famous Jet d’Eau, Geneva’s skyhigh if slightly under-dressed (by Dubai standards) fountain, and its Jardin Anglais (English garden), home to the famous horloge fleurie (flower clock).

The bulk of the old town lies just a short stroll from here. You may want to stop for a hot chocolate or some fondue en route to re-fuel as the area consists of steep cobbled streets lined with fabulous boutiques, some selling rare and suitably expensive art and antiques, that lead to Cathedrale St Pierre and Place du Bourg-de-Four – a medieval marketplace where a fountain and terrace cafes attract locals and tourists alike. End the day here with a hearty roesti at Café du Bourg de Four. Or, for those with a sweeter tooth, stop at Café-Creperie Saint-Pierre, near the cathedral. A satisfying end to an undoubtedly glorious day.

Where to Stay InterContinental Geneve Hotel (intercontinentalgeneva.com) Redesigned by famous New York architect Chi, this popular five-star hotel is in the serene surrounds of Place des Nations. Don’t leave without a spell at the hotel’s spa for aromatherapy and phytotherapy.

Grand Kempinski Hotel (kempinski.com/Geneva) When it comes to modern A-star hotel swagger, the Grand Kempinski Hotel has it in abundance. Right on the waterfront, it boasts views to die for and, in keeping with Kempinski luxury, a first-class fitness centre, spa and three gourmet restaurants too.

Mandarin Oriental Geneva Hotel (mandarinoriental. com/geneva) Michelin-starred Indian cuisine, courtesy of Rasoi

by Vineet, chic boutiques selling designer wares all around and the best of Geneva’s lake-side promenade and old town just a stone’s throw away, make this hotel a must.

Getting around 1.

You’re spoilt for choice with Geneva Public Transport (known locally as TPG).

Trams and buses cover every inch of the city and in typical Swiss fashion are punctual and clean. Then there are the taxis (not cheap) and a high-speed rail link opens up Switzerland’s other major cities, including Zurich and capital Bern.

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Language French is the official language and spoken widely but, as Geneva is an international hub, you’ll get by with English. A few French phrases could come in handy though.

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Buleleng

Suite Dreams

Bali

Denpasar

Jimberan Penida Island

What:

About:

The Jivana Villa

It’s not difficult to fall in love with the blissful Balinese landscape but a stay at the InterContinental Bali’s Jivana Villa would definitely make it easier.

This three-bedroomed villa, just footsteps from the white sands of Jimbaran Bay, is the perfect place to escape city life.

Where:

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InterContinental Bali Resort

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Shaded by trees, its glasslike private pool is almost too beautiful to disturb: admire it as you enjoy a massage from one of the resort’s superb Balinese therapists on the poolside terrace. Enjoy breakfast prepared by a butler in the on-site kitchen before taking advantage of private beach access to enjoy the

stunning coastal scenery on your doorstep. By night, if you’re entertaining guests, a baby piano provides a great talking point; while those seeking time alone should make use of the outdoor Jacuzzi – it’s the perfect place to contemplate just how fortunate you are.

© 2013 MARRIOTT INTERNATIONAL, INC.

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