World traveller oct'15

THE REGION’S BIGGEST LUXURY TRAVEL MAGAZINE

Issue Ninety | October 2015

10dhs

Island Escapes Find paradise on Mauritius & Réunion

COPENHAGEN Produced in International Media Production Zone

What it lacks in landmarks, it makes up in charm

AUSTRALIA Whale watching off Sydney's coast

SINGAPORE Searching for history in a futuristic city

Greeting you by name is one thing.

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October 2015 World Traveller

Editor’s Note Managing Director

Issue ninety

Victoria Thatcher

October 2015

Editorial Director

Dust off the garden furniture, dig out your sunhat and stock up on factor 50 – the UAE summer is finally departing, and taking with it temperatures that make you want to stay indoors. We’ve rounded up a selection of fantastic beach clubs on page 74, if you want to start working on your tan immediately.

John Thatcher Group Commercial Director David Wade Editor

Richard Jenkins Senior Designer

Andy Knappett Sales Manager

Lisa Price lisa@hotmediapublishing.com +971 4 375 3608 Designer

Emi Dixon

Further afield, we’ve got just the destination for a cool city break in Copenhagen, island hopping around Mauritius and Réunion, as well as a truly spectacular whale watching session in Australia. Add in a tour of fabulously futuristic Singapore, and your trip around the world’s most beautiful locations will be complete for the month.

If you’ve got any great travel plans coming up, don’t forget to tweet us @WT_Magazine and we can help you out with some must-try recommendations.

Enjoy the issue,

Illustrator

Andrew Thorpe Production Manager

Richard Jenkins richard@hotmediapublishing.com

Sikandar Chaudhary Editoral Assistant

Teresa Francis

@wt_magazine

Mauritius, Getty Images

Jan-Jun 2015 | 22,984 | BPA Consumer Audit Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller.

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494

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Welcome Contents

Contents

Check In The Sections

10 Be Here Now The Rugby World Cup visits green and leafy Wales, and its cultural capital Cardiff. And new from this month, Qatar Airways flies daily to Cape Town.

15 Globetrotter Check In News and inspiration from around the world

A truly glorious new valley hotel in Provence, the hottest foodie trend in London, Oktoberfest in Germany and autumn in New York are all fabulous reasons to travel.

24 Chef’s Top Tables Destinations In-depth travel features to fuel your wanderlust

Portugal’s Michelin-starred chef José Avillez picks his favourite dining destinations. And if two of them happen to be his own restaurant, so be it.

26 Spotlight On: Marrakech It’s exotic, warm and endlessly beautiful – it’s no wonder travellers have been discovering the wonders of Marrakech for generations.

Weekends Everything you need to know about short-haul escapes 8

29 Style & Wellness Spa news, plus fashion and luxury accessories to make your upcoming travel more stylish.

October 2015 World Traveller

Destinations 42 Dane’s World Copenhagen might not have any must-see tourist landmarks, but its attitude and laid-back lifestyle make it a must-visit.

50 Treasured Islands The Mascarene Islands off er both glorious beaches and volcanic splendour, as a trip around Réunion and Mauritius proves.

56 A Whale of a Time The East coast of Australia comes alive during the annual migration of humpback whales, where viewing spots are plentiful.

Weekends 70 The Big Five The views which will make you never want to leave your hotel room, from Kenya to Abu Dhabi.

74 News From penny-pinching to budget-busting, these beach clubs want you to come back to the beach and into the water.

75 The Great Escape Disappear for a weekend at the stunning new Mélia Doha.

62 Back to the Future

80 Suite Dreams

Singapore’s history is fascinating, for such a futuristic place. Annabelle Thorpe goes in search of the city’s true past.

Unforgettable views of Moscow from your very own Executive Suite window that have to be seen to be believed.

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Check In Be Here Now

Be Here

Now

Cardiff, Wales This month’s continuation of the Rugby World Cup sees matches played across England and Wales, but nowhere will the passion be as heightened as in Cardiff, the Welsh capital. This is where Wales play their home games, and although their Millennium Stadium will be deemed a neutral venue when staging World Cup fi xtures, the thousands of fervent Welshmen packed inside it would beg to differ, probably through song. The national sport aside, Cardiff is also a fun city to explore, with its architectural mix of new and old set against lush green hills. Head to the neo-gothic-style Castell Coch (pictured) to marvel at its opulently decorated interiors and the eerie, dense woodland it’s nestled in. Back in the heart of the city the streets buzz with activity, and you’ll have your pick of bustling bars, live music venues and great restaurants aplenty.

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October April 2015 World Traveller

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Check In Be Here Now

Cape Town, South Africa From October 1 Qatar Airways flies daily to Cape Town, South Africa. With the awe-inspiring Table Mountain fixed on its horizon, the golden beaches and artsy streets of this seaside city exude a joyful energy that is positively infectious.

Boulders Beach boasts a beautiful sandy cove, sheltered from large waves and currents, which makes it popular with families. But there’s another reason kids like to come here – they get to share the sand with a unique and endangered land-based colony of African Penguins, one of only a few in the world. Elsewhere, art exhibitions, handicraft stores and contemporary fine dining restaurants are commonplace in locations like Woodstock, the creative hub of the city, and a trip to the peninsula greets its visitors with incredible panoramic views of the coast and surrounding landscape.

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October 2015 World Traveller

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October 2015 World Traveller

Globetrotter Here’s what’s hot in travel this month…

Seasons In The Sun

It only opened this summer but you’ll have to be quick if you want to check into the stunning Bastide de Gordes hotel in Provence. Perched atop a valley in the charming village of Gordes, the hotel’s countless offerings are staggered down the rockface, with cut-in terraces housing pools, gardens and a bar.

It’s also home to a rather fine Pierre Gagnaire restaurant, an incredible spa, period-chic rooms and some four thousand items of locally sourced art. But why the rush, you ask? Well, this is a seasonal hotel, meaning that at the end of this year it shuts its doors until April. Best get booking. bastide-de-gordes.com

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Check In Globetrotter

One good reason to visit…

Helsinki Established in 2005 as a local initiative, the Design District in Helsinki now comprises 25 streets and 200 independent shops, including jewellery artists, design and antique shops, fashion outlets, museums and art galleries. A whole host of special events are planned throughout autumn to mark the district’s 10th anniversary, and the opening of the charming boutique property Hotel Lilla Roberts – in the middle of the Design District – offers a great base to explore it and wider Helsinki; a superb, laid-back city with a burgeoning gastro scene to sink your teeth into. visitfinland.com

Who’s Got Game?

London London’s restaurants are at the forefront of food trends, but one staple in the city is the addition of game to the menus at a slew of great restaurants during Britain’s game season, which kicked off last month.

If you haven’t ever tried this seasonal treat (‘Game” refers to wild mammals or birds that are hunted for food), here’s where to find it…

St John (stjohngroup.uk.com) is a great place to head. Its menu is decided upon at very short notice – up until 5pm at dinner time – due to a dependency on what arrives fresh from their farm suppliers, so you can be sure the game offered here is of the finest quality. Bibendum (bibendum.co.uk) remains one of London’s landmark restaurants, thanks to being housed within an incredible building, which was the British headquarters of the Michelin Tyre Company before Sir Terrance Conran turned it into a restaurant of repute. Here you can try the likes of roast grouse, pheasant pudding or partridge. Game is often cooked rare with very little done to it, but if that doesn’t sound to your liking there are a few restaurants offering creative takes on the seasonal ingredient. Boisdale (boisdale.co.uk) is one such place. Its variations of grouse include a thai-influenced curry and an Italian ragout.

Likewise, The Cinnamon Club (cinnamonclub.com) is offering the likes of tandoori grouse and a venison and juniper berry kofta. For something truly unique, however, head to Lyle’s (lyleslondon.com). On October 16 and 17 it hosts an annual Game Event, at which seven chefs flown in from across the globe cook up the results of their Scottish hunting trip, where they’ll be turning their freshly caught meat into an exquisite selection of meals.

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Feeling Festive

Where you can join the party this month Dublin

Munich

Amsterdam

Until October 11, Dublin hosts its annual Theatre Festival, the longest-running dedicated theatre festival in Europe.

The stories staged focus on the people of Dublin, with performances – supported by dance and music shows - taking place in venues and locations across the city.

Brass bands, lederhosen and a healthy dose of thigh-slapping abound as Munich’s worldfamous Oktobefest draws to a close this month after seventeen days of unprecedented revelry.

Say auf wiedersehen to it in style by joining the hordes of tent-bound merrymakers on October 4.

With Ibiza’s end-of-season swansongs now over, all twisted limbs turn to Amsterdam. The city’s ADE (that’s Amsterdam Dance Event to you and I) sees 2,000 DJs descend on hotspots around the city, including rooftops, art galleries, outdoor cinemas and, of course, clubs from October 14-18.

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Check In Globetrotter

The Kids Are Alright

Maldives Hotel kids’ clubs have become ever more grander over the years as hotels compete to entice parents, but are we about to witness the dawn of the ‘super’ kids’ club?

Hot on the heels of Per Aquum Niyama Maldives’ opening of Explorers, at which little tikes get to enjoy all manner of cool things (including performing at their own amphitheater before heading to the spa for a Daphne the Dolphin Massage and onto the boutique to check out the exclusive range of kids’ clothes courtesy of New York designer

Paul Ropp), comes The Den at Soneva Fushi (pictured). This Maldivian playground opens this month and is as much fun as its architecture is striking, with its multiple offerings including two pools, an outsized pirate ship, a sound-proof music room filled with instruments, cinema, mocktail bar, and the not-so-small matter of a 14-metre tunnel, through which there are hidden surprises leading to beautiful gardens, dotted with secret hideaways. Don’t you wish you were young again? soneva.com Kop Idol

England Fans of Manchester United look away now. In what’s among the quirkiest bits of information to hit our desks in recent times comes the news that Liverpool’s former boss Bill Shankly is to be immortalized in a hotel. A homage to the iconic football figure who passed away in 1981, The Shankly Hotel opens in (you guessed it) Liverpool this month, and the surprisingly stylish environs include Luxury Studios, replete with a double Whirlpool Jacuzzi. The hotel follows this summer’s opening of Hotel Football in Manchester. shanklyhotel.com

Autumn In New York… ….is widely considered the best time to visit the Big Apple. Piercing blue skies, soft sunshine, crisp air, and those autumnal hues on show in Central Park make for a beautiful backdrop to any trip. And with direct flights on offer from the UAE it’s now a doddle to get there. So, what are you waiting for?

Stay here You want somewhere cozy for autumn, and there’s nowhere finer for this purpose than The Greenwich Hotel in Tribeca.

Owned by Robert de Niro, the hotel’s fabulous Fireplace Corner Suite grants you the opportunity to curl up aside a log fire at the end of long day’s wandering. thegreenwichhotel.com

Do this

Travel Download All the media you need, whatever your journey

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Music Selena Gomez

Film The Walk

Book Slade House

Input where you’re going, who with, and for how long, and this remarkable app uses factors like local weather to tell you exactly what you’ll need to take in your case on your journey.

The singer’s second solo album Revival comes out fresh after the success of her first single, Good For You. Expect smooth and catchy beats with plenty of collaborations with other stars.

Set in New York, the movie is based on the extraordinary true story of French high-wire artist Phillip Petit’s attempt to cross the Twin Towers of the World Trade Center in 1974.

From David Mitchell, bestselling author of Cloud Atlas, comes a story about the mysterious house down the road from an ordinary pub, and its eccentric list of guests.

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Autumn sees a huge number of events and festivals staged throughout New York, and if you’re in the mood to have your ribs tickled, then look no further than the five-day long New York Comedy Festival. More than 200 comedians will perform at various venues throughout Manhatten from November 10-15, so you’re all but guaranteed a good laugh. nycomedyfestival.com

Eat here In a city of so many great and unique neighbourhood restaurants, it feels somewhat of a disservice on our part to recommend a hotel restaurant, but the intimate, white linen table-clothed Clement at The Peninsula New York is a breed apart.

Local, from-farm produce is the basis of a menu from which everything tastes wonderful. newyork.peninsula.com

October 2015 World Traveller

Head to the Hills

Vietnam Hotel hideaways don’t come any better placed than this, the soon-to-open Hilltop Reserve at the beautiful Six Senses Ninh Van Bay. To arrive at the villa – the resort’s most exclusive – guests are chaperoned along a winding path through granite boulders and jungle, but once there are rewarded with an awe-inspiring, 180-degree westward view of the bay.

Inside are three bedrooms, all with en-suite bathrooms, a living room, dining room and a kitchen, in which a personal chef will cook up a storm on demand. Yet the Reserve’s best feature is outside: a 76-square metre infinity pool, large enough to see up to ten sunbathers encircle it. sixsenses.com

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Check In My City

MY CITY

Provence, France

Martine Larroque The MD of luxury sunglasses firm Maui Jim in the MENA region shares her highlights of home Start your day by having a nutritious, yet quick breakfast at your hotel – there is so much to explore you won’t want to linger over coffee in the morning.

If I were in town for just 24 hours, I would take a stroll around the city to experience Avignon’s blend of medieval architecture and religious drama. There is so much history in the sights of the city, and I find walking around and exploring is the best way to experience this.

Palais des Papes (Pope’s Palace) is one such historic treasure to hunt out. It has impressive and amazingly well preserved art and architecture. It is also the largest gothic palace in the world.

My favourite hotel is Oustau de 20

Baumaniere, in the small village of Baux de Provence. It also boasts a fine gourmet foods shop where you can shop for homemade, Provence food specialties.

An unforgettable place I’ve visited in the city is the weekly food and creator market, I never miss it! You can find interesting creations made locally, such as cutlery, furniture and clothes that are totally unique and of the highest quality.

For the fashion forward, head to Cap 3000, located in Saint-Laurent-du-Var. It is a large shopping mall with hundreds of department stores, including internationally renowned brands. After that, for some peace and quiet, visit Domaine Baumaniere. It is a splendid hotel surrounded by lavender fields. and I

like to relax and unwind at the spa there - they use a holistic and sensory approach to their spa treatments and concentrate on wellness.

As evening falls, dine at Le Pre Gourmand, a fine dining restaurant that will provide an unforgettable culinary experience. Clink glasses later at El Primo, they have great food and an excellent selection of grape and bubbles.

Most visitors are unaware of the history of Provence, but it’s something I cherish.

Some may like to be a part of big cities with flashing lights, and might find the historic elements rather dull and mundane, but the culture and traditions of Provence hold a special place in my heart.

Check In Ask The Expert

Taktsang monastery, Bhutan

Ask the EXPERT

Rob Arrow is a product manager at dnata Travel and a self-confessed hotel geek. With nearly a decade of experience in the luxury travel industry, Rob loves nothing more than talking hotels and discovering destinations. His favourite country is Lebanon, his favourite city is Los Angeles and his dream is to own a boutique retreat in the Italian Alps.

Q. It’s starting to be cool enough to travel in the GCC area – what are some cool places to visit, flying from Dubai?

A. With the weather starting to become bearable again and more and more exciting hotel happenings on our doorstep, now is a great time to explore close to home, perhaps for a long weekend or even just a night. One of my favourite places - and I have to say the best opening of 2015 - is the Four Seasons Bahrain. This is no ordinary luxury hotel. This is a resort within the city. The beautiful building stands proud, as it should, 22

in Bahrain Bay and boasts the largest spa in the Four Seasons group (outside of the Maldives), two Wolfgang Puck restaurants and three outdoor swimming pools, one being a saltwater pool and another being adult only. This is one place you can arrive and never want to leave.

Another gastronomic palace is St. Regis Doha. The property has so much to offer, including an amazing pool area and Jazz Bar, but the highlight for me are its restaurants: two bearing the name Gordon Ramsay and the ever-excellent Hakkasan, all under the same roof.

If flying is not your thing, then a trip to Six Senses Zighy Bay is a must.

Here you get to go rustic chic in luxury accommodation in the mountains of Oman’s Musandam region. Stroll from your villa to the unspoilt beach or even paraglide into the hotel. This a true place to come and get away from it all, while seeing another side to the Arabian Peninsula.

Q. I’m really into hiking and trekking mountains. Can you recommend some areas close by and some further afield, as well as places to stay?

A. Today adventure holidays are really

on the up. With the ease of accessibility to more remote areas of the world, trekking holidays in the likes of Nepal and India are on the increase. It is very important to decide in advance the type of trip you want, either to go very much ‘back to basics’ - i’m talking tents, backpacks and campfires - or if you also wish to enjoy a few creature comforts. If you want the former, then it is always better to arrange the trip through a specialist, and G Adventures is perfect at matching you to the right trip and holiday (you can book through dnata Travel).

If you want the ultimate hiking adventure, and to go somewhere where many do not get to venture, then Amankora, nestled in the mountains in the Kingdom of Bhutan, is the place to go. This 5-lodge resort offers 7-14 night trekking experiences, and it’s something you will only be able to do once in a lifetime.

Trekking in the peaks, meeting the monks of the last Buddhist Kingdom, Amankora will tailor the ultimate journey.

Closer to home, the Alila Jabal Akhdar is a must for those that have a head for heights and wish to trek the mountains of Oman. Combine this with a stay at The Chedi Muscat for an escape to remember.

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Check In Chef’s Top Tables

Clockwise from above: Peanut relish with grilled prawns at Nahm; Brás style cod at Café Lisboa, Interior of Nahm; Dip in the sea

Chef’s

TOP TABLES Considered one of the great Portuguese chefs, José Avillez stands out due to his enterprising spirit. He has five restaurants in Lisbon and one in Oporto. His Belcanto restaurant is distinguished with two Michelin stars.

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Chiltern Firehouse by Nuno Mendes (London) Order: Steak tartare, pine nuts, chipotle & Firehouse hot sauce Nuno Mendes was raised in Lisbon but spent sixteen years in the US. The Chiltern Firehouse menu represents the diversity and seasonality of modern American cooking. Nuno’s Steak tartare, pine nuts, chipotle & Firehouse hot sauce is a sensational dish: absolutely delicious, beautifully made, and perfectly balanced.

Belcanto by José Avillez Order: Dip in the sea I grew up in Cascais, a popular beach located on Estoril’s Coast. The sea is very important for me. This dish reflects my passion for fish and seafood. Sea bass steaks are cooked at low sous-vide with bivalves (mussels, cockles, and razor clams) with seaweed and marine plants (false dulse and sea lettuce), and sea water (the broth that comes out from the mussels when they are cooked). This dish tastes of the sea.

October 2015 World Traveller

Café Lisboa by José Avillez Order: Brás style cod A typical Portuguese dish that has cultural significance made from shreds of salted cod, onion, thinly chopped fried potatoes, and creamy eggs, garnished with olives and sprinkled with fresh parsley. This recipe takes me back to my childhood. I serve my Brás Style Cod recipe at Café Lisboa.

Instead of using regular olives I serve my Brás Style Cod with “exploding” olives (olive spheres/liquid olives).

Tickets Bar by Albert Adrià (Barcelona) Order: Air baguette

Nahm by David Thompson (Bangkok) Order: Boeuf and Fries

A very crisp shell of bread larded with meat, aged for five years. The meat is dark red, marbled with veins of fat. The flavour is incredible: sweet, nutty, and not too salty.

Then the complexity of flavours increases.

An essential part of the flavor and mouthfeel is the way the fat melts away, releasing flavors. The way that the Spanish prepare meat is truly amazing.

A simple, popular, and heavenly Thai dessert made with creamy coconut milk, white glutinous rice, and fresh mangoes.

Fresh and juicy mango paired with sticky rice is a match made in heaven. I love the taste and the texture. It has a delightful contrast of sweet and saltiness. A great dessert, and one not to miss if you are in Thailand in the future.

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Check In Spotlight On

Spotlight On Marrakech

It may not even be Morocco’s biggest city, but Marrakech is a cultural wonderland

See and Do Jardin Majorelle

Eat and Drink Gastro MK at Maison MK

Stay Riad Noir D’Ivoire

One of the most popular tourist destinations in Morocco, this intricate and charmingly designed garden took 40 years to make.

Designer Yves Saint Laurent bought the garden in 1970 to preserve the colourful vision of it’s original owner- it is now home to over 300 plant species from 5 different continents.

Housed inside a boutique hotel, Head chef Omar El Ouahssoussi is behind the contemporary Moroccan and French fusion cuisine at Gastro MK. Visitors can enjoy a drink atop the terrace bar before enjoying a five-course menu, which uses the freshest ingredients in innovative ways.

Tucked in a quiet corner of the Medina, the stunning Moroccan architecture of this boutique hotel makes this the perfect retreat after a busy day exploring the city.

Facilities include a heated pool, gym, and a spa that includes a traditional hammam.

La Maison Arabe Maison de la Photographie For history and photography enthusiasts alike, the Maison de la Photographie has wonderful exhibitions with displays that are indicative of Morocco’s rich and fascinating past. With over 6500 pieces on display, the museum also has a terrace that has great views of the city.

Traditional Moroccan fare inside a beautiful setting- the restaurant features a hand painted ceiling inspired by Iranian mosques, as well as a flowered patio with fountains.

Its proximity to the souks also make it a great place to stop by after a busy day of shopping, or as a grand-finale showstopper to celebreat the end of a holiday.

Bahia Palace

La Table du Palais

Home to vizier Abu Ahmed, this 19th century palace is a product of 14 years of work from Morocco’s finest artists‘Bahia’ meaning ‘beautiful’. The courts feature hand-painted and gilded ceiling with elaborate woodwork, you can see the opulently decorated quarters of his four wives and concubines.

Located in the heart of the historic district of Mouassine, the daily menu changes according to local produce, and serves Moroccan and European fare. There’s a bar and beautiful garden that provides a welcome change of pace from the bustling city, and shows off another side of Marrakech’s timeless beauty.

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• Don’t miss Marrakech’s markets are world-famous, and are what you see when you close your eyes and try to imagine a mysterious international bazaar. Djemaa el Fna is arguably the most famous, and the city’s main square is an electric place to simply stand and watch the bustle and practise your haggling.

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October 2015 World Traveller

&

Style Wellness

Golden Girl Milan It looks like something specifically designed for a film set, but the gleaming golden building you see in this picture is the recently opened Fondazione Prada in Milan. The city has long been a must-visit for the style set for its annual fashion weeks, but further reason to fly in now comes courtesy of this Ron Koolhassdesigned gallery/museum. Inside, rotating exhibitions are paired with permanent installations and Miuccia Prada’s private art collection. There’s also a rather cool café, designed by film director Wes Anderson (he of The Royal Tenenbaums and Grand Budapest Hotel among others). fondazioneprada.org 29

Check In Style & Wellness

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New Opening Moscow

Magnificent Tropical Attire

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Housed within a beautiful Art Nouveau façade on history-rich Tverskaya Street and affording its guests views of Pushkin Square - is Russia’s first Design Hotels™ member, StandArt Hotel Moscow.

Opening this month, it’s the handiwork of architect Pavel Andreev, who redesigned the Bolshoi Theater in 2011, and aside from its super stylish interiors the hotel also boasts chef Angel Pascual, who garnered a Michelin star for his previous restaurant, and Russia’s first Dr. Barbara Sturm Molecular Cosmetics studio. Best get booking. standarthotel.com

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(1) Zanzan El Morocco Oversized Sunglasses (2) Clover Canyon Dancing Tulips Printed Crop Top (3) Talitha Silk-Blended Minidress (4) Clover Canyon Floral Sunrise Shorts (5) Slydes flat sandals from namshi.com (6) Marigay-Joaquim Amethyst Octagon (7) Mara Hoffman Beach Dress.

Book It New York Pulling together the creative talents of the world’s foremost illustrators, Everyone Loves New York is a newly released, whimsical ode to the City that Never Sleeps. A flick through the pages reveals the iconic buildings and taxicabs, the famous shopping streets and neighbourhoods, and the eclectic inhabitants who call the city home.

What’s more, it will make you want to jump on the next plane and see it all for real again - in winter or simmer.

New York is the city for all seasons. teneues.com 30

The Perfect Day Hong Kong If the Mandarin Oriental Hong Kong is - as often billed - the grand dame of Hong Kong, then the Landmark Mandarin Oriental is its more svelte, stylish and noticeably younger sibling. It’s also one of the world’s best places to squeeze in a combined shopping and spa break.

Start with a saunter around the designer label-loaded Landmark Mall, to which the hotel is connected, where you’ll find the likes of Alexander McQueen, Chanel, Dior, Prada and Harvey Nichols. Then head back to the hotel to while away an afternoon holed up in the award-winning spa’s VIP Sanctuary Suite, replete with an amethyst crystal steam shower and large vitality tub, before ending the perfect day with dinner at the hotel’s always-outstanding restaurant Amber, a firm fi xture in the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. mandarinoriental.com

October 2015 World Traveller

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Get Well Soon#

ESPA Life, Corinthia Hotel London

Although London’s not short of inner-city sanctuaries, you won’t find any better than ESPA Life on the lower levels of the Corinthia Hotel London. This spaceship-like setting spans four floors and, amongst near limitless luxuries, houses an indoor swimming pool, vitality pool, amphitheatre sauna, ice fountain, heated marble loungers and private sleep pods. You’ll also find a globally renowned team of experts at your service, including naturopaths, traditional Chinese Medicine acupuncturists and herbalists.

Whilst so popular is this hotel with visiting Hollywood celebs, there’s also every chance you’ll share a sauna with one.

Try this…

In addition to offering a leg-long list of inventive treatments, ESPA Life also reckons on giving you the ultimate night’s sleep. How? The Sleep Osteopathy therapy takes just sixty minutes, but in that time you’ll be treated to a range of treatments which include physical manipulation, stretching and massage, medical acupuncture and cranial osteopathy, all of which are tailored to your personal needs and combine to induce the perfect night’s kip. That’s how. espalifeatcorinthia.com 31

Check In World Traveller Promotion

Race

Weekend onYas Island Superstars flock to Abu Dhabi for the most glamorous week of the year Yas Island is a hub of excitement and adventure all year round, but at the end of November it will truly be full to bursting with the excitement of the big race weekend.

From November 27-29, in addition to the race itself, the rest of the island is filled with so much to do that you’ll have to rev your engine at full throttle to experience it all. Yas Island is the home to several world-class entertainment options, including the famous Ferrari World Abu Dhabi, award-winning Yas Waterworld Abu Dhabi and dozens of stunning restaurants like Cipriani, Iris and Rogo’s, the unique rollercoaster restaurant inside the new and exciting Yas Mall. Visit Yas Mall’s VOX Cinema to catch the latest movie or let your kids enjoy a day at Kidzone. Play a round of relaxing golf at Yas Links, take a ride over the island with Seawings to get a bird’s eye view of its bustling activities and the race track, or groove to beach tunes on Yas Beach as you get your party-worthy tan. Yas Island has it all!

Before the race Get into the motorsport spirit by taking your family to Ferrari World Abu Dhabi. It’s got exciting rollercoasters - including the world’s fastest, the electrifying Formula Rossa - plus Ferrari World Abu Dhabi has plenty of the newest Ferrari models to admire, as well as an informative museum and lots of family-friendly places to stop and eat.

During the race The big race takes place on Yas Marina Circuit, which snakes through Yas Marina and is visible from many different locations on Yas Island. Yas Links will be hosting its usual stunning Racing Buffet from Nov 2729, where AED299 bags you a BBQ buffet, soft drinks and more in a vibrant atmosphere. Yas Marina itself is great for kids to play, and over the race weekend will be buzzing with laughter and excited crowds.

After the race The nighttime is when Yas Island comes alive. As is traditional, the first concert features an all-Arab lineup, this year consisting of Algeria’s Cheb Khaled, Lebanon’s Karam and Emirati singer Aryam. For an A-List after party, visit The Podium Lounge, which is expanding to du Forum this year. The Podium Lounge hosts drivers, teams and celebrities galore and is the place to be seen.

Live after-race performances will this year be from British rock act Blur, Florence + The Machine and international superstar Enrique Iglesias.

Head to yasisland.ae for up-to-the-minute information.

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October 2015 World Traveller

Berthing a boat this year? Read here for all the info you need.

• Each year, berths at Yas Marina sell out rapidly, especially ones with views of Yas Marina Circuit.

• Berths start at just AED 11,435 and are allocated on a first-come-first-served basis.

• Special package deals starting at AED 16,445 are also available, including discounts all around Yas Island.

• For more information or to book a berth, contact yas.marina@cnyasmarina.com or call +971 2 657 5460

November

Race Weekend Offers Organise your race weekend soon! Book by calling dnata on +971 4316 6666 or visiting dnatatravel.com

Yas Island Rotana 5 nights from USD 2,855 per person Stay in a Classic Room with breakfast daily Validity: 26 Nov – 30 Nov 2015

Centro Yas Island 4 nights from USD 2,240 per person Stay in a Classic Room with breakfast daily Validity: 26 Nov – 30 Nov 2015 33

Check In dnata Offers

WORLD TRAVELLER

Reader Offers

A

A USA The Florida Hotel & Conference Center Orlando

5 nights from USD289 per person Special off er: Stay 4 nights and receive an additional night free.

Hotel lobby opens to the Florida Mall - largest mall in Orlando Includes: Stay in a Standard Room with return airport transfers Validity: Now until 15 Nov, 2015 Visit Florida, one of the US's most picturesque states.

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B Switzerland InterContinental Geneva

South Africa One&Only Cape Town

3 nights from USD595 per person Special off er: Stay 2 nights and receive an additional night free Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now until 29 Feb, 2016

4 nights from USD805 per person Special off er: Stay 3 nights and receive an additional night free Includes: 4 nights stay in a Marina Harbour Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now until Dec 18, 2015

Geneva isn't just the land of wristwatches, cuckoo clocks and chocolate - its luxury hotels compare with those found anywhere in the world.

A stay here grants you postcardperfect views of Cape Town's majestic Table Mountain and a gateway to its other attractions

Turkey Shangri-La Bosphorus, Istanbul 3 nights from USD560 per person Special off er: â‚Ź65 credit on F&B per room, per stay. Credit valid for 2 restaurants (IST TOO, Shang Palace) plus Lobby Lounge Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Oct 20-Nov 30, 2015 Enjoy this stunning spot aside the always-bustling Bosphorus.

October 2015 World Traveller

B I D

How to Book You can book these offers by calling dnata on

K J

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+971 4 316 6666

L H

Or by visiting dnatatravel. com. Terms and conditions apply. On the same site you can also sign up to dnata’s newsletter and receive more offers direct to your inbox.

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E Seychelles Hilton Seychelles Labriz Resort & Spa

F Sri Lanka Colombo & Bentota Tour

Malaysia VIVANTA Rebak Island Langkawi BY TAJ

4 nights from USD630 per person Special off er: 40% room rate reduction plus complimentary return boat transfers Includes: 4 nights stay in a Garden Villa with breakfast daily and return airport to jetty transfers Validity: Now until Dec 20, 2015

4 nights from USD370 per person Special off er: Complimentary SIM card on arrival and shopping discount coupons in Colombo Includes: 2 nights at Centara Ceysands Bentota, 2 nights at Ramada Colombo, breakfast daily, guided transfers throughout and a Colombo city tour Validity: Now until Dec 20, 2015

4 nights from USD258 per person Special off er: Stay three nights and receive an additional night free along with complimentary reeturn airport / boat transfers Includes: Stay in a Premium Indulgence Sea Front Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now until Nov 15, 2015

The Seychelles is paradise made real, a postcard come to life.

A super-cool hotel.

H Singapore Shangri La Singapore

3 nights from USD366 per person Special off er: 35% room rate reduction Includes: Stay in Tower Wing Deluxe Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now until Nov 15, 2015 Shangri-La's expertise and famed customer service are to the forefront at this wonderfully relaxing venue.

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Check In dnata Offers

Grand Hyatt Kuala Lumpur

One&Only Reethi Rah

Hotel Royal Savoy Lausanne

Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui

dnata’s FANTASTIC FOUR

Unusual Getaways These amazing locations are ideal if you're looking for something new I

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Switzerland Hotel Royal Savoy Lausanne

Maldives One&Only Reethi Rah, Maldives

Thailand Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui

Malaysia Grand Hyatt Kuala Lumpur

3 nights from USD1,046 per person Special off er: Complimentary upgrade to Deluxe Lake View Room Includes: Stay in a Deluxe City View Room with breakfast daily, complimentary minibar replenished daily (soft beverages only), complimentary in-room Wi-Fi and SPA access, and private return airport transfer from Geneva airport Validity: Now until Oct 31, 2015

4 nights from USD2,475 per person Special off er: Stay 3 nights and receive an additional night free, plus complimentary upgrade to half board and complimentary return speedboat transfers Includes: 4 nights stay in a Beach Villa with breakfast daily Validity: Now until Dec 18, 2015

4 nights from USD1,097 per person Special off er: Stay three nights and receive an additional night free Includes: Stay in a One Bedroom Villa with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now until Nov 30, 2015

4 nights from USD360 per person Special off er: Reduced rates by 15% Includes: Stay in a Grand Garden View Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now until Nov 15, 2015

Exquisite Maldivian luxury in a quite stunning setting.

You can safely expect an amazing holiday here.

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Malaysia is an increasingly popular holiday spot, and this hotel is beautiful.

October 2015 World Traveller Promotion

Pacha Dubai

P

acha Ibiza Dubai, the UAE’s leading nightlife venue, is proud to unveil ZIYA, its latest dinner and show offering. Taking place from the 15 September, the unique dinner show concept inspired by the Arabic story of light, will leave guests mesmerised by some of the world’s most experienced performers, whilst delving into an array of the menu’s delectable Mediterranean infused dishes with international flavors.

In perfect synergy with the exquisite upscale cuisine, ZIYA is the only dinner show experience in Dubai to showcase world-class talents interacting with the audience. ZIYA, the Arabic meaning of the word ‘light’, will unveil a voyage of enlightenment and love, encompassing an inspiring and worldly dining and nightlife experience. Taking inspiration from one of the greatest journey’s of all time, Ibn Battuta’s travels, guests will be taken on a reflection of the odyssey encountering an array of magical characters; mysterious magicians, dervishes, holy men and fascinating fire eaters. The ZIYA experience presents a running thread of light; diners will be offered an un-missable discovery of history, myth, beauty and awe.

Alongside the scintillating showcase, diners will be taken on a culinary journey led by newly announced Executive Chef, Renaud Olivier. Guests can choose from a variety of a la carte menu options or from three special set menus including offerings such as the Chilean Sea Bass “Glacier 51” with Kumquat Compote, Celeriac Foam and

Asian Greens, Short Ribs with Red Wine, Rosemary and Chocolate Sauce on Polenta and Pickled Pumpkin and Chocolate Parfait and Coffee Ice Cream.

Leaving no tables unturned for the ZIYA launch, Pacha Ibiza Dubai has sourced the very best performers from around the world. Highlights include the likes of internationally cast aerialists, contortionists, acrobats, as well as astonishing dancers and other specialist acts from across the globe.

ZIYA is a whimsical voyage meticulously prepared by expert in-house teams and will captivate audience’s night on night.

Dates: Ongoing Days: Tuesday to Sunday Times: 7pm and 9.30pm Special Off er Set Menu Prices: AED350, AED450 and AED650 Reservations: +9714 31666666 or email contactcentre@dnata.com Location: Souk Madinat Jumeirah 37

Destinations Iconic Istanbul

Iconic

Istanbul Straddling two continents, Istanbul is a metropolis of contrast, where green hilltops command unforgettable views over magniďŹ cent waterways and spectacular mosques are just the tip of a vibrant history.

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October 2015 World Traveller

Architectural Wonder Perhaps the most iconic buidling in all of Istanbul, the Blue Mosque is also named after Sultan Ahmed who conceptualised the design at just 19 years old. Despite its title, the exterior doesn’t have a hint of blue, but wait for it as inside there are over 20,000 blue tiles many dating back as far as the sixteenth century. Curvaceous domes, elegant minarets and over 260 windows result in this architectural masterpiece that you won’t want to miss.

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Destinations Iconic Istanbul

Hagia Sophia Museum Formerly a Basilica for Eastern Orthodox Christianity, this incredible building has also been used as a mosque, and is currently a museum, reecting the eclectic and shifting past of Istanbul and Turkey as a whole. The current Hagia Sophia is actually the third construction, even though it occupies the same location as the previous two. The original was constructed in the year 527, under the order of Emperor Justinianos.

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October 2015 World Traveller

Shopper’s Delight The world’s largest covered market is more than just a shopping haven; it’s a whimsical place to discover the people of Istanbul. Capturing the lively spirit of the city, The Grand Bazaar covers an area of 61 streets and boasts no less than 4000 stores.

With goods spilling out of storefronts onto the streets, you can easily pick up anything from jewellery and fashion, to souvenirs and handmade carpets, to food delicacies and spices. And no matter what is on your shopping list, don’t forget to practice your haggling skills,

the vendors are expecting it.

Lose yourself in the labyrinth of alleyways and sidewalks, sip on a Turkish coffee in one of the street side cafes or simply indulge in an interesting spot of good old-fashioned people watching in the heart of Istanbul.

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Destinations Copenhagen

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October 2015 World Traveller

Dane’s WORLD Copenhagen’s the city for just hanging out, says Laura Goulden. Scandi-cool shops, cutting-edge food, beautiful people — and no sights…

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Destinations Copenhagen

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expect you were probably sipping a cold drink while dangling your legs from an ornate bridge, sharing the last bite of something greasily delicious with a loved one or watching the sunset paint a tower block unexpectedly pink.

This is why Copenhagen, to my mind, offers the best city break in Europe. In a stroke of genius, the town planners designed the Danish capital to be clean, compact, full of attractive airy boulevards and almost devoid of must-see sights — the best-known, the Little Mermaid, is mostly famous for being a disappointment. This means no racing from gallery to museum to cathedral, and lots of what you really want to do in a city: eat, drink and hang out (activities this city caters for exceedingly well). In short, Copenhagen offers the sort of trip that’s made for people like my boyfriend Steve and I — secret lazies.

So when we landed late afternoon, instead of wondering if we could squeeze a gallery in before closing time, our fi rst decision was whether we had time for a drink before dinner. We quickly agreed that we did.

Just 30 minutes later (the city is so small no journey is longer than half an hour), we were in the laid-back west-of-centre Vesterbro neighbourhood — all quirky cafes, interesting-looking restaurants and independent shops — sipping drinks and people-watching.

Everything doesn’t just look pretty, it works like a dream And what people-watching! Those Scandi stereotypes are all true: every single person in this city is handsome, blonde and under 35 years of age (what they do with the old or ugly is a mystery). They all ride trendy fi xie bikes, accessorised with either a small dog sitting dutifully in a wicker basket, or a pair of genetically blessed children sitting dutifully in a wooden bike trailer. Make-up and blow-dries are thin on the ground — these guys are too good-looking to have to bother.

After an hour of gawping, our stomachs indicated that it was time to make the sevenminute walk east to Kødbyen, an area once populated by butchers that has now been overrun with hip restaurants and renamed the Meatpacking District, à la New York. On a Friday night it was rammed and we waited an hour for sourdough pizza at modish Mother restaurant. But we didn’t mind because we had already factored in the next day’s lie-in and we pretended we were part of the young monochrome crowd, sitting outside next to white-tiled warehouses draped in fairy lights and generally having very civilised, low-key fun.

The beauty of omitting big-hitting sights from your city break is that you get to spend your weekend living like a local. You rarely see residents getting up at dawn to 44

beat museum queues, but you do see them lingering over long, lovely brunches. We did likewise, idling the next morning over sliced avocado on rye, and yoghurt with pickled courgettes and candied pistachios (much more scrummy than it sounds), at our window-seat perch in minimalist cafe Atelier September. Gazing through the window I could appreciate the subtlety of Copenhagen. Instead of going in for dramatic, postcard-worthy statement pieces like other European capitals, this city has homed in on the details, crowning buildings with spires and curled roofs and filling empty spaces with water and greenery. You won’t see one scruff y plastic chair or naff umbrella outside a cafe — they’re banned.

And everything doesn’t just look pretty, it works like a dream. Wide boulevards have as much space for bikes as cars, the air is clean and there are no suffocating skyscrapers — it’s as if the city has been designed to alleviate stress. This style-aswell-as-substance attitude is evident in the classic furniture, too, much of which was designed post-war to be both attractive and affordable. And the same goes for Copenhageners’ approach to fashion — they all wear black, presumably because it always looks cool whatever the occasion.

Our base for the weekend was Hotel

October 2015 World Traveller

Opening pages: Colorful houses and historic ships from the 17th century at Nyhavn, Copenhagen. This page, clockwise from far left: Entrance to the Tivoli Gardens; Cafe in boutique Hotel SP34; Food in Amass; The DR Concert Hall at night.

Destination Dish Avocado on rye Healthy, tasty and beautiful to look at - this must be a Scandinavian speciality. Try it with an egg and a dash of chili sauce to give breakfast a kick. “Rugbrød” is the most commonly used bread in Denmark, the dark, sour loaves making the staple of many meals.

Alexandra, a shrine to Danish design, with nearly 300 pieces of vintage furniture. Each suite is a homage to a different designer and all exhibit the sort of elegant, neutral-toned taste that it’s impossible not to like. Except ours. Verner Panton appears to have been a Danish eccentric, and while I loved the disco chandeliers and bright orange walls, they aren’t to everyone’s taste. ‘It’s giving me a headache,’ said Steve.

But my choice of suite was forgiven because Hotel Alexandra has an added (furniture-designer) bonus. Here, you get to lounge in Finn Juhl’s long-limbed armchair, sink into the outstretched arms of Wegner’s Papa Bear armchair and let knowledgeable general manager Jeppe show you Jacobsen’s plain wooden Shaker seat, ‘one of the fi rst pieces he made at design school’. A stay here means you don’t need to visit the Design Museum.

So instead, that afternoon we hit the shops. The Scandinavians must be the most-copied people on the planet right now — open the pages of any interiors mag and they will be filled with interiors inspired by the mid-century modern style; flick through a fashion magazine and you’ll find cropped trousers teamed with clogs and Sarah Lund’s now-iconic jumper. So whereas we’d usually feel a bit guilty about shopping 45

Destinations Copenhagen

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October 2015 World Traveller

during a city break, here, we bypassed the NyCarlsberg Glyptotek gallery in favour of long, elegant Gammel Kongevej, the city’s most famous shopping street — picking up a bit of Scandi style felt like the thing to do.

It quickly became clear that the casual Danish look doesn’t come cheap. I flipped over the tags nervously in Black, a minimalist slip of a store stocked with loose-fitting dresses and blazers that would look excellent on someone with the looks and budget of Tilda Swinton. Possessing neither, I splashed out on some grey jeans — I thought they made my legs look a bit Danish — from Nué, a little further down the street. Meanwhile, Steve left edgy menswear store Han Kjøbenhavn with a scruff y trench coat and some round-rimmed sunglasses that either made him look like a cool Copenhagener or a homeless John Lennon (he decided it was worth the risk).

Outfits sorted, we made our way to the town centre where more-accessiblebut-still-fashionable stores lined the surprisingly quiet cobbled streets.

Copenhageners obviously have better things to do at the weekend than shop — Oxford Circus this isn’t. Making the most of the experience, we spent an unrushed hour deliberating over copper candlesticks and

If you do want culture, it’s there - at the aggressive-looking opera house, or Kastallet fortress handle-less coffee cups in Hay House, a design shop whose every beautifully crafted object would look perfect in a Scandi-chic apartment, and awkwardly out of place anywhere else. Unable to think of anyone with a cool enough pad to buy these wares for, we ended up with fluorescent tea towels to give to our pals (Look! Attractive and useful!) and some grey felt coasters that might just blend into Steve’s flat.

If you do want culture, it’s there — maybe at the aggressive-looking opera house, the peaceful grounds of Kastellet star fortress or among the world-class medieval and Modern Art at the National Gallery. But you can pick and choose from these safe in the knowledge that, upon your return, no-one’s fi rst question will be ‘What did you see?’. They will, on the other hand, ask what you ate. More specifically, they will ask if you ate at Noma. You need to be happy to spend big and very organised to do this ($246pp for the set menu without drinks; tables sell out minutes after the booking window opens, three months ahead of the reservation date). And you can eat so well so comparatively reasonably in Copenhagen that going to so much trouble feels like an unnecessarily large effort, which is not the cucumber-cool Danish way. No surprise then, that Noma is full of out-of-towners.

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Destinations Copenhagen

Where To Stay SP34 Hotel A super-stylish, small and cosy boutique hotel in the heart of Copenhagen’s old Latin quarter, in one of the city’s most charming and bohemian spots.

SP34 is just a ten minute walk from Copenhagen Central Station, but our advice is take advantage of the hotel’s valet parking service. To book, visit dnatatravel.com or call +971 4 316 6666

Instead, we booked a Saturday-evening table at posh wood-cabin Radio, a mere four days in advance. Set up by Noma founder Claus Meyer just north of the three lakes that divide the city, this unassuming little restaurant serves a set menu of five complex little courses. It seems that food is the only aspect of life that Copenhageners are impractically flamboyant about. Each dish was delivered, lovingly sprinkled with flowers, delicious ‘dust’ and tasty pastes, and we demolished it all in seconds.

Everything was pretty, light and like nothing I’d tasted before (in a good way) and it cost just $60 a head.

Feeling like we’d got this city’s number, we pulled on our new Copenhagen clobber and spent our last day on rented bikes, making believe that we lived there. We negotiated the cobbles as we passed the colourful houses in Nyhavn port and shared a beer as we watched swans drift across the water from Dronning Louises Bro, a bridge-cum-sunny-day-hang-out where locals bag benches, bring supplies and wait for sunset. It was here that a woman, 48

Previous pages: Sunset over a canal in Copenhagen; This page, clockwise from left: A bicycle in the King’s Gardens; Torvehallerne; boats in Nyhavn; cinnamon rolls in a Danish bakery; Nimb brasserie; Braised lamb cheek and tongue at BROR restaurant.

October 2015 World Traveller

who looked satisfyingly like the reporter in Borgen, made our weekend. We were just about to drop the living-like-a-local charade and wind things up with a visit to the doughnut stands and rollercoasters of the 19th-century Tivoli pleasure garden, when, like a very modern, attractive fairy godmother, she offered us a crispbread and mentioned that her favourite part of town was Nørrebro, just west of the bridge.

We dropped our vague plan, clambered back onto our bikes and headed west. It turns out that Nørrebro is a treasure trove.

The city’s trendiest and most multicultural neighbourhood is packed with coffee shops, endless food options and a graveyard frequented by topless sunbathers (Hans Christian Andersen’s final resting place, pretty Assistens Cemetery, doubles up as a park). Jægersborggade is Nørrebro’s epicentre. We walked the cobbled street, pressing our noses against the windows of independent shops selling quirky ceramics and jewellery, before sticking our heads into Manfreds & Vin, a cosy cave of a restaurant run by another Noma disciple,

chef Christian Puglisi. It was nearing dinnertime, so we got comfy and drank until we felt it was an acceptable time to eat.

Judging by our fellow customers’ orders, the tasting menu is the thing here — but, unable to face a second night of multiple courses, we ordered steak tartare and a side of onions to share. What onions! Sweet little half moons smothered in cheese with warm sourdough for mopping — this was the sort of refined, feel-good food that should be passed between world leaders during peace talks.

As we clattered back to the hotel that evening, our way illuminated by streetlamps strung up like Christmas lights, we chatted about what a great place Copenhagen would be to live, and the jobs and dog we might get if we moved here.

Was this because Copenhagen is the world’s ‘Most Liveable City’ (a title bestowed three times by Monocle magazine) or because we’d spent the weekend acting like locals rather than tourists? Either way, we’d got to know this city in a more intimate way than we usually would. I had a feeling that this was the city break that would inform all our others.

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Destinations Reunion & Mauritius

Treasured

Islands The Mascarene Islands offer rich variety, from the heavenly beaches of Mauritius to the volcanic splendour of La RĂŠunion, says Mike Unwin

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October 2015 World Traveller

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Destinations Reunion & Mauritius

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t’s just a little stone,” says the pilot, as our helicopter banks low over the hillside, its shadow beetling up towards the ramparts of the Cirque de Cilaos.

“A little rock in the middle of the Indian Ocean.”

Some stone, I think, watching the escarpment racing towards us and bracing myself for what lies on the other side. And then all thought disappears – along with my stomach – as we crest the crater rim, like a reef diver over a drop-off, and the land falls away into the depths of the caldera.

Visiting La Réunion is one of those Tardis experiences: on the map, an isolated speck; but on the ground, a looming, Lost Worldlike immensity. The Cirque de Cilaos is one of three calderas – the vast exploded craters of ancient volcanoes – at the island’s centre.

To their north looms the Piton des Neiges, an extinct volcano that at 3,070m crowns the island. To the south is Piton de La Fournaise, a still-very-much-alive volcano, as it regularly reminds the locals.

The flight provides the perfect window on to this spectacular geography. As we climb the lower slopes, the apron of development around the coast gives way to greenery – cane fields, geranium plantations, wild tamarind forests – until it reaches the caldera rim. Out to sea, a white guardrail of breakers encloses the turquoise reef that shelters our resort. Where the reef ends, wilder waves batter the rocky shoreline.

But the real drama comes when we flip over the caldera’s lip. Inside, walled in by sheer 500m cliffs, I peer down on shadowy canyons and glinting, serpentine rivers. The chopper zips along knife-edge ridges, swings out over yawning abysses, and hovers like a dragonfly in front of

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bridal veil cascades. Then, up and out, we continue south, flying over the lush, rain-fed forests nestled between the volcanoes, and swinging down to the lava plains of Piton de la Fournaise.

It’s an impressive fi rst day on La Réunion.

But my wife, 12-year-old daughter, and I have been on the Mascarene Islands for a week already, having made neighbouring Mauritius our first port of call. This, apparently, is the wrong way round. A standard itinerary would have started here, getting the rugged, outdoorsy stuff out of the way before taking a 45-minute flight to kick back in the tropical paradise to the north-east.

But Mauritius, we had discovered, is about more than beaches. The Black River Gorges

We fly over the lush, rain-fed forests nestled between volcanoes National Park, in the south, protects the island’s last decent patch of native forest and some of its rare native wildlife. A winding, misty drive inland from the expansive comforts of the Lux Tamassa beach hotel had deposited us among mossy, dripping trees, and we had tramped off along a broad ridge trail, enjoying alluring valley vistas through brief rents in the mist. Except for the occasional hardy jogger, this could have been the Mauritius of pre-colonial times, when dodos still roamed the island. And, after losing the trail and bushwhacking muddily back to park HQ, I wouldn’t have been surprised to meet the last of those unfortunate fowls.

“Mauritius was made first and then

October 2015 World Traveller

Destination Dish Rougail Made with chicken or sausage, this deliciously flavourful dish has its origins in Madagascar, just a short hop from Mauritius. Very spicy, it traditionally consists of diced tomatoes, ginger, minced onions and fiery peppers.

Opening pages: Mauritius, Riviere Noire, Le Morne Brabant, Aerial view of peninsula and mountain. These pages, clockwise from top left: The Black River Gorges National Park; A hiker beside the Piton des Neiges; A giant tortoise in Mauritius; Colonial architecture in Saint Pierre, La Réunion; the beach of SaintGilles-les-Bains, La Réunion; Tartare de dorade, a raw fish dish, La Réunion.

heaven,” Mark Twain once said, “Heaven being copied after Mauritius.” As we trudged back to our room at Tamassa, trailing mud past beach bar and infinity pool, it occurred to me that the great man may not have tried the hiking.

Fair enough. Much as I’d enjoyed the offpiste adventure, this was a family holiday, not a survival boot camp. And at our hotel on the north-west coast, our base for the first few days, we’d already enjoyed enough beachfront R&R. A catamaran excursion saw us sipping rum and coke on the stern as dolphins trailed in the boat’s wake, and snorkelling over a glittering reef beneath Persil-white tropical birds.

But there’s only so much heaven you can take without getting itchy feet. Inland, the island’s multi-layered past is embodied in the floral splendour of the Botanical Garden and among the bustling spice markets of the capital, Port Louis.

At L’Aventure du Sucre – a museum built around an old sugar plant – I wandered among the evaporators, and learned everything about the industry that has long nourished Mauritius. Excellent displays explained the island’s colonial history – from the Arabs, Portuguese and Dutch, via the buccaneering French, to the English, who in 1810 landed with 70 ships to oust the French and shore up the trade route to India.

Through it all was sugar, enriching (and rotting the teeth of) the colonials, and transforming the island from virgin forest to a carpet of cane. Eventually, of course, we had to sample the wares. While my daughter worked her way through a few sugar tasters, her parents – strictly for research purposes – did the same with 53

Destinations Reunion & Mauritius

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October 2015 World Traveller Clockwise from left: Beachcomber Paradis Hotel, Le Morne Brabant Peninsula, Mauritius; Motorbike in Port Louis, Mauritius; A windsurfer in Mauritius; Pamplemousses gardens, Mauritius.

a selection of rums. “This one is not for tasting,” explained our host, politely, whisking a 25-year-old vintage bottle out of reach.

In the island’s quieter east, old French cannons still guard any gaps in the reef that might admit the invading English. We headed south past mangrove-studded bays, picnicked on a breezy hillside – where fruit bats flapped up from their forest roosts like leathery buzzards – and trundled over the old bridge at picturesque Mahébourg.

This last town is the gateway to Ile aux Aigrettes, a tiny coral island that protects some of Mauritius’s most endangered endemic wildlife. Our guide, Gianie Clarisse, led us around the quiet trails, spying such rarities as the pink pigeon and Telfair’s skink (a lizard). We also met Big Daddy, largest among 20 giant Aldabra tortoises – introduced to replace Mauritius’s own endemic giant tortoise, which has long since gone the way of the dodo. “Tortoises

Arum lilies glowed moon-white amid the treeferns propagate the native plants,” explained Gianie, as this 90-year-old reptile munched away in the shade. Some of these plants – the likes of oxwood and bottle palm – are as endangered as the animals they conceal.

And so to La Réunion. Some 225km to the south-west of Mauritius, this mountainous island is a French overseas département rather than, like its neighbour, an independent African nation. And from the minute we left the four-lane ring road and hit the busy suburbs of capital St Denis, it was clear that we had – at least in infrastructure terms – moved from Africa to Europe.

The island’s beach resorts cluster along the western reef. In St Gilles, a stroll up the beach road from the laidback Hotel Le Recife led us from hypermarché to boulangerie, and past an animated game of pétanque. Were it not for the coconut palms and coral rubble, this could be Brittany.

After dark, though, with the Southern Cross overhead and Afro-infused Maloya jangling from the bars, the island’s character began to emerge. The Réunionaise pride themselves on their

multicultural melting pot – Indian, African and European all marinated in creole. At La Marmite restaurant, traditional cuisine bubbled in huge black pots suspended over a fire, and we joined the crowd piling their plates with octopus salad, blood sausage and fish curry – all served up with dollops of rougail, the signature spicy relish of creole cuisine.

The helicopter flight had left us aching to explore what we had seen from the air. We left the coast and wound around the island’s dramatic roads: up to Cirque de Cilaos, where we hiked the hair-raising caldera rim; through the dripping rainforests of Foret de Bélouve, where arum lilies glowed moon-white amid the treeferns; and south to the scorched moonscape of Piton de la Fournaise, where we trekked across the Plaine des Sables and discovered that this “sand” was really lightweight, pumice gravel that sparkled with colour.

In the far south we also saw what the volcano is capable of. The last major eruption, in 2007, spread a lava field, 60 to 70m-thick and 1.5km wide, from the summit to the sea, adding 30 more hectares to the island as it settled on the seabed.

There was wildlife, too. Like Mauritius, La Réunion is home to many endemic species.

We ticked off such gems as the perky little Réunion stonechat in the highlands and the multi-coloured Réunion ornate daygecko, scuttling around the tourist office at Manapany in the south-west. And, for a change of scale, we watched humpback whales spouting out beyond the reef.

On another occasion, with more time and decent walking boots, we might perhaps have joined the hardy souls braving the thigh-busting, gite-to-gite hikes into the interior. But on this holiday, beach time beckoned.

Thus our stay ended amid the stylish comfort at Lux Ile de la Réunion, the island’s top hotel, where the creole-style villas – all sweeping balconies and open-fronted symmetry – gave on to tropical gardens and a glimpse of reef through the casuarinas.

Although the buffet breakfasts defeated any lingering hiking ambitions, we could still head down to the water for a snorkel. On our final afternoon, a magnificent hawksbill turtle materialised from the blue and flippered languidly alongside us: another long-haul visitor drawn to this little rock in the middle of the Indian Ocean.

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Destinations Australia

On the

WHALE TRAIL The east coast of Australia comes alive during the annual migration of humpback whales. And Byron Bay and Hervey Bay are prime viewing spots, discovers Lara Brunt

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Destinations Australia

“T

here!” someone shouts, pointing excitedly to the blue horizon. I stop mid-paddle and follow their finger, rewarded by the telltale spray of a surfacing humpback, followed moments later by the graceful arc of its fluke as it dives again. “Dolphins!” another voice cries, causing nine heads to swivel as one to watch the playful pod, mere metres in front of us.

By the end of the three-hour Go Sea Kayak tour off Byron Bay in northern New South Wales, we’ve totted up two humpbacks and dozens of dolphins and green turtles, although there’s no sign of the legendary white whale, Migaloo. First spotted off Byron in 1991, sightings of the rare humpback as he makes his annual migration create plenty of excitement – there’s even a website (migaloo.com.au) detailing his movements.

Each year from late April to November,

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thousands of humpbacks make the 10,000km round-trip from Antarctica to the warm coastal waters of Queensland to mate and give birth. Known for their spectacular acrobatics, you can spot the majestic creatures from the shore along the coast or on-board a sightseeing boat in towns like Hervey Bay, the whale-watching capital of Australia and our ultimate destination.

But Byron has plenty to offer up fi rst.

Famous for its beaches and bohemian vibe, the town served as a whaling station in the 1950s, before surfers arrived in the ‘60s, followed by hippies in the ‘70s. Today, everyone from backpackers to Hollywood A-listers, such as Chris Hemsworth, holidays here.

After checking-in to our suite at The Byron at Byron resort, we head off to explore. Set within 45 acres of rainforest and minutes from Tallow Beach, we’re spoilt for choice with boardwalk and

The Byron hinterland is just as beautiful as its beaches, we discover the next day beach strolls, guided rainforest walks, spa treatments, tennis and yoga. We opt to tag along with head chef Gavin Hughes on his weekly visit to Byron Bay Farmers’ Market.

As we stock up seasonal vegetables for tonight’s menu, Gavin makes a beeline for the stall selling black garlic. “It’s the Vegemite of the garlic world,” he explains, referring to the dark brown Australian spread that divides opinion. “It’s really gooey and pungent.” Later that evening, we enjoy cocktails on the terrace overlooking the pool and feast on butter-soft braised beef cheek and fresh asparagus, knowing we nabbed the last bunches that day.

October 2015 World Traveller

Destination Dish Coff ee Making coff ee is pretty much one of Australia’s national sports, and the big coastal cities have incredibly competitive barista cultures. The “Chemex” coff eemaker above uses drip technology for a perfect cup.

The Byron hinterland is just as beautiful as its beaches, we discover the next day with Kristina Drapes from Green Cauldron Tours. Rolling green hills and lush valleys are planted with neat rows of macadamia and avocado trees, and a meandering web of country roads connects curiously named towns like Goonengerry, Coorabel and Myocum.

We pull into Mullumbimby, ‘The biggest small town in Australia’ the sign proclaims, and visit the weekly farmers’ market, held in the shade of magnificent fig trees at the showgrounds. We continue on to Crystal Castle, a centre devoted to New Age philosophies with landscaped gardens filled with Buddhist and Hindu statues. You can have your chakras aligned or your tarot cards read but we opt for an aura reading.

After placing each hand on a sensor, a staff member takes my photograph and hands me a Polaroid showing the “energy field”

around my body. The blue haze above me signals sensitivity and intuition, while my husband’s red and gold aura indicated higher wisdom, much to his delight.

Mighty Mount Warning dominates the landscape, the 1,156-metre-high core of an ancient shield volcano known as Wollumbin (‘Cloud-Catcher’) to the Bundjalung people.

“They say it’s the first place the sun touches, as this is the most easterly point of Australia,” says Kristina. During its three-million-year reign, lava ebbed and flowed from the volcano, creating the Green Cauldron caldera enveloped by subtropical rainforest.

We bid Byron farewell and drive five hours north to Hervey Bay. Settled in 1868, the beachfront city is home to around 65,000 people and attracts just as many tourists when the whales are in town from late July until November. The bay, part of the Great Sandy Strait, is protected by neighbouring 59

Destinations Australia

Opening pages: Whale watching in Hervey Bay. Previous pages, clockwise from left: Byron Bay lighthouse; Surfer on Main Beach, Bryon Bay at dusk; Humpback whales (mother and calf) in Hervey Bay; Food at Coast restaurant; A dingo on Fraser Island. These pages, clockwise from above: A humpback whale breaching; Swimmers in Eli Creek, Fraser Island; Byron at Byron resort; Maheno Shipwreck, Fraser Island; Food at Coast restaurant.

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October 2015 World Traveller

Fraser Island and provides sanctuary for around 10,000 weary whales each year, thus tour operators guarantee sightings.

Our home for the next few nights is Akama Resort, a five-star spot on the esplanade overlooking the marina where the tour boats depart. “Akama means ‘whale’ in the Butchulla language, the traditional owners of Fraser Island,” resort manager Chris Crause explains, as he shows us around our one-bedroom apartment. With contemporary décor, a fully-equipped kitchen, open-plan living areas and floor-to-ceiling folding doors that open onto a private balcony, it’s bigger than our apartment back home in Dubai.

Chris books us onto a whale watching trip the next day, followed by a full-day tour of Fraser Island, the world’s largest sand island. We ask about bike riding and within half an hour, he’s rented us bikes from a local company. We spend the afternoon cycling along the beachfront paths, stopping now and again for a swim and an ice cream at one of the many cafes.

We take Chris’s advice and book a table

It’s not long before we spot breaching whales in the distance, so we all wave and holler like fools at Coast for dinner. We’re glad we did, as the restaurant is packed on our Tuesday night visit. We soon see why; the menu is brimming with local produce, executed with Michelin-star pedigree, minus the pretence, by head chef Nick Street-Brown and his team. We share juicy Hervey Bay scallops and succulent slow roasted lamb shoulder with quinoa salad and sweet butternut pumpkin risotto, and somehow make room for the cheese plate overflowing with creamy Queensland brie.

At 8am the next morning, we board Quick Cat II, hoping to not only see the whales but slip into the water with them, a new experience that’s being trialled in Hervey Bay. Skipper Steve tells us conditions are not quite right today, but assures us we’re still in for a treat. “There are normally around 70 whales in the bay each day,” he says. While boats have to keep a distance of 100 metres, the naturally inquisitive mammals usually approach the boat if you shout and wave.

It’s not long before we spot breaching whales in the distance, so we all wave and holler like fools. Our antics are soon rewarded, as a mother and calf cruise alongside the boat, eyeballing us in what is known as a ‘mugging’. Next, a pod of three adolescents show up and lead us on merry dance, as we race from one side of the deck to the other to catch their fin-flapping, lobtailing (slapping the water with their

Where To Stay Byron Bay and Hervey Bay Set within 45-acres of subtropical rainforest, The Byron at Byron has 92 one-bedroom suites with huge beds, freestanding tubs and private balconies.

There’s an acclaimed restaurant overlooking the infinity pool and a serene spa with signature treatments featuring native ingredients. In Hervey Bay, Akama Resort has open-plan apartments and penthouses, ranging from one to three bedrooms, with floor-toceiling folding doors and private balcony. Resortstyle facilities include a temperature-controlled pool, free WiFi and tour booking service. To book, visit dnatatravel.com or call +971 4 316 6666.

flukes) and spyhopping (rising vertically out of the water).

Just when I think they’ve disappeared, a huge grey whale erupts out of the water, right in front of where I’m standing at the stern, before crashing back down.

Humpbacks can reach 40 tonnes fullygrown, but nothing quite prepares you for the shock and awe of witnessing a breach.

We see around 15 more whales during the four-hour cruise, but nothing tops that amazing moment.

Our last day is spent exploring Fraser Island by four-wheel-drive. Inscribed on the World Heritage List 20 years ago, the island is blessed with pristine lakes, rare rainforests growing on sand, and the country’s purest wild dingoes, of which we spot only one. “The island has recently returned to its original Aboriginal name, K’gari, meaning ‘paradise’,” our rangerguide tells us.

We join holidaymakers floating down Eli Creek, a fast-flowing freshwater creek lined with banksia and pandanus palms, and visit the rusting hulk of The Maheno shipwreck, a trans-Tasman liner driven ashore during a cyclone in 1935. Something out to sea catches my eye. It’s a humpback, breaching, providing one last spectacular goodbye.

For more information on Byron Bay, see visitnsw.com and pacificcoast.com.au. For Hervey Bay, see visitfrasercoast.com 61

Destinations Singapore

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October 2015 World Traveller

Back to the future

Inspired by her father’s WWII tales of colonial nostalgia, Annabelle Thorpe goes in search of time-warped Singapore. Will she ďŹ nd it somewhere, beyond the surreal modern city?

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Destinations Singapore

T

he natural light begins to fail, and a million man-made replacements shimmer through the dusk to light the city all over again — an urban equivalent of those Arctic-summer ‘white nights’, when the sky never truly goes dark. In fact, Singapore at midnight is practically floodlit: gleaming hotel signs 30 floors up illuminate the air; neon-lit hoardings covered with vividly hued dresses and creamy-skinned models glare down at the street. The glasswrapped monoliths of the Central Business District are chequerboarded with light, streaming from the desks of worker bees still slaving over their screens as one day tips into the next.

You have to be above it to see the whitenight city in all its twinkling, faux-dawn glory, and that’s exactly where I am — 57 floors above it, standing on the terrace at Ku Dé Ta, trying to keep the ferociously unfriendly bouncers from noticing I’ve slipped onto the roped-off restaurant deck to take a better picture. Fortunately, help is at hand; my friend Martin is in the city for the Art Fair, and he does his best to shield me while I take a hundred pictures of the cityscape below.

‘Time to move,’ he says, as a bouncer heads straight for us, and we slip away to gaze at the flipside view from the other side of the terrace: the South China Sea milky-black in the moonlight, littered with trawlers and cargo ships, a handful of Indonesian islands floating lazily behind.

Beyond the bar, I’m met by the unexpected sight of an infinity pool stretching the length of the rooftop, small wet heads bobbing in the water, framed by the cranes and gargantuan ships in the port, more than 50 floors below.

It’s spectacular, surreal — but it’s also what Singapore is known for, the kind of Blade Runner futurism that makes the UK seem as if it’s still living in the time of Dickens. And it’s not what I’ve come to this tiny, crazy city-state to find. I’ve wanted to visit ever since I was a little girl, when my Dad would tell me stories of his National Service in Singapore and Malaysia; of snakes and beasties and Tenko-hot temperatures. It sounded so exotic, as if he’d actually stepped into the pages of a Kipling novel, and however much people told me Singapore was bland and boring, I couldn’t shake off the sense that it was a place with tales to tell, a soul to discover.

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October 2015 World Traveller

Destination Dish Kaya Toast Many locals kick off their day with Kaya Toast — white bread sandwiched with coconut jam, topped with sugar and dipped in fried egg. Try it at Ya Kun Kaya Toast, the oldest and best of the breakfast chains (yakun.com)

Opening pages: Merlion park at night. These pages: Outdoor dining on Bugis street.

So the following morning I step out with Jeanne, a quiet-spoken Malay guide, and ask her to show me the older parts of the city, the ethnic quarters, to leave aside the sprawling, neon-decked malls of Orchard Road, the main shopping drag. And as the car glides through the streets, I look up, craning my neck to see the tops of the buildings that tower around us, glinting moodily in the sunlight. This doesn’t, I think to myself, look very exotic.

And then suddenly the ’scrapers stop.

Light floods in. We turn a corner and the road is edged with neat two- storey buildings: shutters on the windows of the upstairs residences, cafes in the commercial premises below. ‘Typical old shophouses,’ says Jeanne, as we leave the car and walk beneath the scarlet-and-gold archway that leads into Chinatown. ‘We value our heritage — and there’s more of it than people think.’ We weave through crowds of tourists haggling over satin purses and intricate paper-cut artworks, and turn onto a covered food street that feels vaguely like an Asian Covent Garden, lined with food stalls that all seem to sell prawn mee and chicken rice. ‘It’s a Singaporean staple,’ Jeanne tells me.

‘Everyone has their favourite place in the city for chicken rice.’

Chinatown is fun, but it doesn’t feel properly intoxicating; there’s none of the frenetic, churning street commerce that characterises, say, Shanghai. Little India, 10 minutes’ drive away, feels truly foreign, though: the dusty streets that wind around the deity-clad Sri Veeramakaliamman Temple are lined with crate-stacked food stores and glass-fronted drapery shops, rather than tourist-tat stalls. We dip into a cubby-hole grocer’s to buy water, and I stop to sip it gratefully, surrounded by heaps of mangos, lemons about to topple, and sacks of rice crusting slightly in the sunlight.

Across from me, a hunched, white-haired man steadies himself on a rickety cart and pours tea from a battered urn. Doors bang open at the curry-house opposite, and the air is suddenly thick with the scent of cumin and hot ghee.

It’s chaotic, messy, rich with spices and colours, and I browse happily through the stores’ reams of beautiful, teal-blue and violet sari fabrics, studded with sequins and diamante flecks — until Jeanne drags

me away in the direction of a bulbous gold dome — the Sultan Mosque, which marks the entrance to the Arab Quarter.

Vivid as they are, it seems to me that Singapore’s ethnic quarters are quite different to, say, London’s, or New York’s. In the latter, whether you’re having dim sum in Chinatown or tiramisu in Little Italy, there’s an innate New York-ness that underpins the whole city.

I don’t feel that here. I can’t get a sense of Singapore itself, and Jeanne agrees.

‘Singapore is a collection of communities,’ she says. It’s as if the city borrows its ‘exotic’ from its immigrants.

A little disappointed, I call a halt for lunch — and end up with a slice of just the Singapore I’ve been looking for. ‘Eating out is so Singapore,’ says Jeanne as we hit Tiong Bahru market for the promised plate of chicken rice. ‘People eat out all the time.

It’s so cheap, and most flats don’t have airconditioning, so it’s too hot to cook.’

I swivel round on my rickety plastic stool to take in my surroundings and those I’m sharing them with. In a city as diverse as Singapore, particularly in the stultifying

Chinatown is fun, but it doesn’t feel properly intoxicating heat, things can become a bit of a blur, and it’s not until I’ve drunk half a can of pop, and tucked into several mouthfuls of stickilysoft chicken and rice sweet with stock, that I actually draw breath. It’s a hawker market, Jeanne tells me, one of the few authentic examples left (they sprang up in the ’50s, to provide cheap food in a supposedly more hygienic setting than the street stalls that dotted the city). It’s pretty rough and ready: a rash of circular plastic tables surrounded by glass-fronted stalls that together emit a kind of culinary symphony: banging woks, bubbling fryers, the smack of knife on board as it scythes through meat.

It’s here, for the fi rst time, that I feel a sense of that fizzing excitement my father had described. Across from me, two Indian schoolgirls are giggling over some bizarre dish of icy slush, drenched in bright green and lipstick-red sauce; at the next table, two men in grubby aprons are hunch65

Destinations Singapore

shouldered, spooning up a broth that reeks of fish and spice. There are loose-collared city workers, spiky-haired teenagers munching on deep-fried fish balls, and a huddle of elderly Thai ladies digging into chicken rice. It all feels agreeably ‘other’; all that’s missing is the palm-fronded glamour that infused my Dad’s stories and my Kipling-themed fantasies.

The glamour’s easy enough to locate, though — I get a hit of it later in the evening, sitting among the colonial ghosts of Raffles hotel, the grand dame of the city, which has welcomed everyone from Charlie Chaplin to Noël Coward. Glamour, of a somewhat dated, panama-hat-and-tiffin variety, oozes out of every gleaming-wood panel, a Ku Dé Ta for the pre-war set. ‘You’re here a few decades too late,’ Martin tells me, as we sip iced drinks and the rain patters softly on the canopy above.

If I’d suspected there was nothing exotic about the boring old British colonial era and its relics, I was proved deliciously wrong next morning at the National Museum.

There, surrounded by photographs of safari-hatted imperialists and stiff-backed portraits of first-generation Chinese and Indian immigrants, I find a ’30s British information film. It’s almost unrecognisable as the same city: colonial chaps and their fan-wafting wives sip cocktails at Raffles and recline on rattan sofas in palatial, palmdraped bungalows, while bent-shouldered Indians run tuk-tuks through the streets, and Chinese dock workers heave great sacks of rice and wheat on and off hundreds of jostling junks. It’s bizarre to think that this was the world the war interrupted; the war that sent my Dad, as a wide-eyed teenager, out to a Singapore that barely exists today.

But there are corners of the city where that languid, unfamiliar world still lives — in the leafy courtyards at Raffles; across the rolling lawns of the 19th-century Botanic Gardens; in the latter’s orchid enclosure, where dozens of pastel-hued fronds swish together for the gaggles of horticultural paparazzi.

With time running out on my short break, I’d asked Jeanne to recommend me somewhere to visit on my last afternoon — somewhere that would really show me the exotic Singapore my Dad had reminisced about all those years ago — and now I hop in a taxi from the Gardens to Bugis Street, the place she suggested. To my disappointment, it turns out to be little more than another big mall. I wander past Superdry and Accessorize and out onto an unprepossessing pedestrianised street, just as it begins to rain. Further along I can see a huddle of static umbrellas. Only as I draw closer do I realise they are flower and incense-sellers, still doing brisk business in spite of the drizzle.

I watch as money is exchanged for a handful of blooms, or a trio of incense sticks that the buyers carry to a temple on the side of the street, lifting them above their 66

Clockwise from left: ArtScience Museum and Marina Bay; Colourful colonial architecture on the Pagoda Street night market in Chinatown; Satay sitck from the Hawker market Lau Pa Sat; Chinatown market at night; Sultan mosque in the Arab quarter.

October 2015 World Traveller

Where To Stay Singapore For the full-on colonial experience, it has to be Raffles. Foodies should stay at the Sofitel So, opposite Lau Pa Sat market, with its 60 different food and pop-up satay stalls. Shoppers should stay at the glitzy St Regis, near the Orchard Road mega-malls. To book, visit dnatatravel.com or call +971 4 316 6666.

heads or laying the flowers at the gate.

It’s obviously a Buddhist temple, but then I realise that almost next door is a Hindu complex, with a similar gaggle of people outside, paying their respects, praying for their wishes to be granted; and beyond that lies what must have once been an Anglican church. I stand still for a moment, the rain warm against my skin, wet flower petals sticking to my feet, and look at all the different faces — Indian, Chinese, Thai, Burmese, Western, Middle Eastern — some who’ve come to pray, some to shop, others simply en route to somewhere else.

Later, up on a fourth-floor roof terrace at the wonderfully named Potato Head Folk in Chinatown, I try to explain to Martin that somehow, on that rainy back street, I finally felt I’d found the city I’d come for.

There isn’t one Singapore, but many — and what makes the place truly exotic is the way they collide. It is the bland and boring workers’ city; and the verdant jungle village; and the crossroads of India and China and Arabia; it’s even the modern-bizarre world of flying swimming pools and bars called Potato Head Folk. It’s a chimera of a place, impossible to pin down. But there are moments, places, rainy back streets and grubby hawker markets, when those worlds coalesce, when the city becomes one; moments when you can almost glimpse its soul. And I think my father would certainly recognise those.

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October 2015 World Traveller

Weekends

Two days is still plenty of time to travel

Underwater room

65 The Big Five Rooms with a View 74 Beautiful Beach Resorts 75 The Great Escape 78 Reader Offers

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Weekends Big Five

BIG FIVE

ROOMS WITH A VIEW You’ll never want to leave your suite

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Surrounded on three sides by the breathtaking Mara River, and right on the edge of the world’s seventh “new” wonder of the world, this is the epitome of tented luxury. From the tents’ verandas (and even the four-poster beds), guests can gaze out at the Mara River and its variety of inhabitants, including hippos, crocodiles and a fascinating variety of colourful birds. fairmont.com/masai-marasafari

Bringing Four Seasons’ customary levels of exemplary luxury to Egypt. The 269 luxury rooms offer views of the Pyramids, botanical gardens (Egypt is surprisingly lush) and captivating views of the city of Cairo itself. The rooms are furnished in soft gold, red and green tones with gilde, Empirestyle furnishings. The signature marble bathrooms include a deep soaking tub and granitetopped vanities. fourseasons.com/fairofr

Fairmont Mara Safari Club

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Cairo at The First Residence

October 2015 World Traveller

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Shangri-La Qaryat Al Beri, Abu Dhabi One of Abu Dhabi’s most iconic sights is the awe-inspiring Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, and it can be seen in all its glory from the sizeable Shangri-La suites. The mosque took almost ten years to build, and features four minarets and eighty-two domes, each representing different Islamic styles. The rest of the hotel is connected by scenic waterways, navigated by traditional abra boats. shangri-la.com

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Offshore from Pemba Island’s Manta Resort is this unique accommodation. A floating private island with the bedroom four metres below the waves, with the rooftop deck given over to sunbathing or stargazing.This is a truly unique opportunity to get up close and personal with some of the tropical marine life found around the Eastern African island of Zanzibar.

Don’t forget your snorkel for daring dives off the roof. themantaresort.com

Bringing traditional Arabic luxury into the 21st century, Manzil is the best place to take a weekend break, and gaze out at the incredible Burj Khalifa tower, the tallest in the world.

There’s really no hotel with better views - Manzil is right across the street. The hotel itself is a cosy boutique, with a beautiful courtyard for enjoying a relaxing al fresco dinner before heading out into the Dubai night to party. vida-hotels.com/en/manzil

Underwater Room, The Manta Resort, Zanzibar

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Manzil Downtown Dubai

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Weekends World Traveller Promotion

When

Home is

Arabic Manzil Downtown Dubai is a hotel where a weekend break will show you the city’s soul

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ooking for something out of the ordinary, yet comfortingly familiar? Manzil Downtown Dubai is the answer. As a venue for a relaxing city staycation, it is truly beyond compare, with the finest luxuries on offer and surprises around every corner.

The hotel has been carefully designed to appeal to urban travellers that are looking for a modern twist on Arabic hospitality, in a seriously sophisticated setting. At the heart of the hotel is the peaceful courtyard, a haven of social interaction. In the summer 72

it’s pleasantly cool, and during the winter months becomes a tranquil space with the sound of birdsong echoing gently around the walls. Dining al-fresco here is a simple joy.

Elsewhere, the dining options continue to delight. Nezesaussi is a bubbling sports hub with flatscreen TVs on the walls showing the latest games, serving food from New Zealand, South Africa and Australia – which is also how it gets its name. The vintage-style Fümé is a truly unique concept, with delicious international cuisine able to seat up to 200 diners over two

storeys. The dining options are rounded out

by Boulevard Kitchen, an all-day restaurant that allows curious diners to observe the open plan kitchen as the chefs prepare authentic Middle Eastern food and delicious Emirati deserts.

Born and bred in Dubai, Manzil is managed by Vida Hotels and Resorts so you can be sure of an authentic, yet sophisticated experience. For more information, visit VIDA-hotels.com or connect with Manzil Downtown Dubai on social media.

October 2015 World Traveller

GET A ROOM Manzil has a selection of stunning rooms with great views to enjoy Many of Manzil’s rooms have incredible views of the Burj Khalifa, the world’s tallest building. The iconic skyscraper will inspire daydreams as guests gaze from their terrace or windows to the imposing 830 metre high tower.

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Weekends News

Beach On the

From aff ordable to wallet-busting, these beach clubs want to welcome you onto their sandy shores

Entry Level Fairmont Bab Al Bahr Beach Club

Fun with Friends ART Rotana Beach Club, Amwaj Isnaldn

Special Occasion C-Flow Beach Resort, Jbeil, Lebanon

Blow the Budget The Ritz-Carlton, Dubai Beach Club

With two spacious private beaches that have space for football, badminton, Frisbee, softball and volleyball, this Abu Dhabi offering is great for families, and its massive pool is a great draw for those that prefer their beach clubs with as little sand as possible.

An annual membership for a family of four is just Dhs21,200, and there are great day rates too, making it a winner for everyone. fairmont.com

This Beach Club allows you to explore 150 metres of pristine beach front with stunning views of the Arabian Gulf before challenging yourself with a variety of exhilarating watersports. You can enjoy outdoor fitness sessions, use of nine private cabanas, an outdoor hot tub and there’s even a private island found just offshore that can be explored, if you book in advance. rotana.com

Catering to an select clientele aged 18 and above only, C Flow is like a tropical island with daily chillout music and serious parties on Sundays when the music is pumped to a maximum.

Expect to see beautiful people shaking their perfectly formed beach bodies at this exotic and chic location, where the tiki-like huts and cabanas offer seclusion and relaxation to Lebanon’s well-heeled clientele. cflowbeachresort.com

A month’s membership will set you back Dhs5200, but there’s no finer beach club in Dubai.

It’s chilled out and made for relaxing, with no watersports facilities, to keep the noise from buzzing jet skis to a minimum.

The private beach area is the ultimate in city luxe, with Instagram-ready backgrounds as far as the eye can see. You’ll hardly believe you’re even in the bustling city. ritzcarlton.com

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October 2015 World Traveller

The

Great

Escape Mélia Doha

Another luxury hotel in Doha? Isn’t it full?

Not by a long way! Doha is indeed home to several glamorous new hotels, and the Mélia Doha opened in February this year, and has just re-opened after the summer season. Its opening marked it out as the country’s first 5* Spanish hotel, and it’s found inside the West Bay Region.

Sounds good.

Anywhere nice to eat?

Absolutely. Offering some exciting new additions to Doha’s

burgeoning culinary scene will be three diverse restaurants.

Signature by Sanjeev Kapoor will make its Qatari debut, offering Indian fine dining with a modern twist. Aceite Restaurant will reflect the hotel’s Spanish roots, offering the finest traditional tapas whilst Nidaaya All Day Dining will offer international cuisine from around the world with live cooking stations.

What else makes the hotel stand out?

For those looking for the

ultimate in luxury, Meliá Doha’s Royal Suite, is one of the five most spacious suites in the West Bay of Doha. Located on the 39th floor featuring 436 square metres of opulence, which is the highest floor in the skyscraper.

The views truly cannot be described.

What else is there to do around the hotel?

With 280 rooms and 37 suites, ranging from the Executive Suite to the spectacular Royal Suite, Meliá Doha was designed to delight even the most discerning traveller. Its location, which is just 10 minutes from Hamad International Airport, allows guests easy access to Qatar’s financial, shopping and diplomatic district and is also located close to the Corniche.

At a

GLANCE Fast facts about Mélia Doha • Mélia’s ‘The Level’ is the opportunity to reserve an exclusive space within the hotel.

• The hotel’s spa stays true to its Spanish heritage by offering Natura Bisse products.

• For weddings or other special occasions, the hotel’s magnificent ballroom is available.

• The hotel has been designed to blend Mediterranean and Arab cultures.

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Check In Abu Dhabi News

City of MUSIC This October, Abu Dhabi Classics returns to bring music to the forefront Aiming to revive the rich dialogue that music has always engaged between cultures, the Abu Dhabi Classics Programme is bringing together some of the most important artists in the field of Arabic and Western classical music, with a view to exploring how the lines between them are more porous than it may seem on first listen. This year’s season also looks into the cultural heritage of Abu Dhabi, and its affinity to poetry – a shift from last year’s focus on ‘the traveller.”

The extended musical programme begins on October 7 with a performance from the Symphony Orchestra of India, and continues throughout the month and indeed on into 2016. For dates and ticket information, visit ticketmaster.ae

76

October 2015 World Traveller

orlando

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Four Seasons Resort Orlando at Walt Disney WorldÂŽ Resort

4 nights from

AED 1,990 per person

6 nights from

AED 4,210 per person

To book: Call us on 04 389 8555, visit us online at dnatatravel.com or a nearest dnata Travel outlet.

Terms and Conditions Valid for bookings up to 31 October 2015. Travel periods as speciďŹ ed. Please note some seasonal surcharges may apply. All prices were correct at time of printing and are subject to currency uctuation up until the time full payment is made. All prices are subject to availability and special conditions apply.

Weekends dnata Offers

WORLD TRAVELLER

Weekend Reader Offers

DAMAC Maison Cour Jardin

Fairmont Dubai

Hyatt Regency Dubai Creek Heights

The Ritz-Carlton

Waldorf Astoria

Waldorf Astoria Ras Al Khaimah 1 night from USD149 per person Special off er: Receive 30% discount on rate, kids go free Includes: Stay in a Classic Room with breakfast Validity: Now until May 31, 2016 (Minimum of 2 nights stay on weekends)

DAMAC Maison Cour Jardin, Dubai 1 night from USD120 per person Special off er: Complimentary upgrade to next room type plus 35% Discount on all SPA 78

treatments plus 1 session of Floatation at Chrysalis SPA and Complimentary 1 hour access to the Kids Club for one child below 12 years Includes: Stay in a One Bedroom Suite Downtown View with breakfast Validity: Now until Oct 31, 2015

Hyatt Regency Dubai Creek Heights 1 night from USD110 per person Special off er: 20% room rate reduction Includes: Stay in a Regency Room with breakfast Validity: Until Oct 30, 2015

Salalah Rotana Resort

Fairmont Dubai

The Ritz-Carlton, Dubai

1 night from USD134 per person Special off er: 40% room rate reduction Includes: Stay in a Fairmont Room with breakfast Validity: Until Oct 30, 2015

1 night from USD245 per person Special offer: 30% room rate reduction Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfast Validity: Until Nov 30, 2015

October 2015 World Traveller

Oman Salalah Rotana Resort 1 night from USD105 per person Special offer: 15% room rate reduction plus 15% discount on food & beverage and 15% discount on spa treatments Includes: Stay in a Classic Room with breakfast Validity: Now until Oct 31, 2015

Oman The Chedi Muscat 1 night from USD243 per person Special offer: 15% room rate reduction Includes: Stay in a Serai Room with breakfast Validity: Now until Dec 23, 2015 The Chedi Muscat

WIN! Fairmont The Palm and Flytographer, Dubai These days, you need to make your travel pictures extra special by letting the professionals take them. Fairmont Hotels has now launched its exclusive global partnership with Flytographer, and they want to make your holiday extramemorable. Flytographer was founded in 2013 with the goal of connecting travellers with expert photographers, to get the most incredible holiday pictures possible.

We’ve teamed up with Fairmont The Palm and Flytographer to give away a night’s stay for two plus breakfast, including a 60 minute Flytographer session* at a range of areas from Old Dubai to glittering Downtown, via the sandy beach. Fairmont The Palm has 450 metres of private beach with incredible city views, including spacious rooms and two relaxing pools.

To be in with a chance of winning, just answer this question: What year was Flytographer founded?

A) 2002 B) 2015 C) 2013 Email your answer to easywin@ hotmediapublishing.com by October 31, 2015. *Prize will be subject to availability, prior reservation essential and valid for 6 months, until 30th April 2016. Both elements to be taken during the same time

79

Weekends Suite Dreams

Suite Dreams

What: Executive Suite Where: Hotel Baltschug Kempinski, Moscow About: Many visiting members of Royal Houses, Heads of State and Prime Ministers have enjoyed use of this Russian palace’s Executive Suite, and it’s not hard to see why. What better way to examine where you’ll be spending your working days than through a telescope in your hotel room? Hotel Baltschug Kempinski is located in an historic building on the ambling Moskva River, and the Executive Suite has everything you’d expect a travelling dignitary to need – a working desk, separate bedroom and living areas and a plush lounge area for unwinding after a day negotiating international treaties. Or, if you’re simply enjoying the city of Moscow, relaxing after a day of sightseeing. kempinski.com 80

2015 - 2016 SEASON Following the theme of poetical music, this season’s Abu Dhabi Classics will run from October 2015 until May 2016.

Featuring some of the world’s most prestigious orchestras including the City of Birmingham Symphony Orchestra, Sinfónica de Galicia, Gustav Mahler Youth Orchestra as well as leading soloists like Martha Argerich, Nelson Freire, Naseer Shamma, Frank Peter Zimmermann and Matthias Goerne. abudhabiclassics.ae