INSPIRED BY
ISSUE 146 | NOVEMBER 2020 | DHS15
UAE'S BEST SUITES MALTA READER OFFERS STAYCATIONS
Chic midwinter
Produced in Dubai Production City
Opulence rules on a twin city trip to snow-scattered Russia
Why we're wild about Kenya
Heartfelt hospitality Extraordinary experiences Whether you’re seeking quality time with loved ones, or simply craving that feeling of the sand beneath your feet, our team are waiting to welcome you to our island homes. With five luxury resorts in Maldives and a beautiful beach retreat on the east coast of Sri Lanka, we’ll make sure that your dream vacation is well worth the wait. sunsiyam.com
Sun Siyam Iru Fushi Maldives Sun Siyam Olhuveli Maldives Sun Siyam Vilu Reef Maldives Sun Siyam Iru Veli Maldives Sun Siyam Pasikudah Maldives Siyam World Maldives (Opening Soon)
E info@siyamworld.com www.siyamworld.com
OPENING SOON
THE MALDIVES REIMAGINED A WORLD OF POSSIBILITY AWAITS
The Park Hyatt ® trademark and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation. © 2020 Hyatt Corporation. All rights reserved.
AN ENRICHING STAY ON THE SHORES OF SAADIYAT ISLAND BESPOKE EXPERIENCES CALM AND TRANQUIL LOCATION A HEALTHY DOSE OF NATURE
Seeking an exceptional vacation where you can disconnect from the hustle and bustle of the city? Book your stay at Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi Hotel and Villas, an exclusive sanctuary located on the pristine shores of Saadiyat Island. For reservations contact reservation.abuph@hyatt.com or +971 2 407 1234
Welcome note
Home comforts have, for obvious reasons, become more important than ever this year, and while the places we can fly to remain strictly limited at present, we're fortunate that the hotels we can drive to are among the world's very best.
Managing Director Victoria Thatcher Chief Creative Officer John Thatcher General Manager David Wade Content & Social Editor Hayley Kadrou Deputy Editor Sophia Dyer Art Director Kerri Bennett Digital Media Manager Muthu Kumar
A big factor in what makes them so special is their suites. From the submerged-in-an-aquarium to the suspended-in-the-sky, the UAE has the lot. But which are the very best? That's the tough question we asked ourselves this month - you can find our answers on page 18. Elsewhere in this issue, we'll tell you how to make the most of marvellous Malta (page 38). With its stylish capital - home to avant-garde art, hip hotels and a fab foodie scene - beaches, and a charming countryside to boot, this in-vogue destination is one to visit now. Russia, too, is a somewhere best seen now, in all its wintry wonder. We tell you why making it a twin city visit is a must (page 32). And then there's the enchanting remoteness of Kenya, where conservation and comfort are of equal importance at the family-owned Lengishu lodge (page 44). Enjoy the issue.
FIVE THINGS WE LEARNED THIS ISSUE: 1
Closing time is a thing of the past at the soonto-open Siyam World in the Maldives, where guests can visit a 24hr restaurant. p13
2
Not only is the Abu Dhabi Edition home to one of the best suites in the UAE, but it also has its own signature EDITION scent. p22
3
In St Petersburg's Winter Palace, Catherine the Great’s quarters has a lifesize mechanical peacock gilded with gold. p34
The World Traveller Team
4
Malta is made up of three islands, the smallest of which, Comino, has a population of just three people. How's that for social distancing? p40
5
Having disappeared more than 50 years ago, there are now over 200 black rhinos in Kenya. p48
INSPIRED BY
Photography credits: iStock by Getty Images, supplied Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media is strictly prohibited. HOT Media does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller. Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494
COVER IMAGE Lengishu, Kenya.
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Contents November 2020 Hotel Château du Grand-Lucé
Camp Sakira by Amangiri
14
GLOBETROTTER
regulars 05
13
GLOBETROTTER
READER OFFERS
The destinations topping our thought list this month include the Black Forest and and exotic Zanzibar.
Why we're counting down the days until the Maldives' latest opening, plus three other new hotels to add to your wish list.
It's time we sent you packing. Choose your next adventure, whether near or far, from our exclusive reader offers.
OH, THE PLACES YOU'LL GO
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64
SUITE DREAMS
To be fair, there aren't many Indian Ocean suites we don't swoon over, but this one at Constance Ephelia takes some topping. worldtravellerme.com 5
CONTENTS
features
18
SUITE SPOTS
Get set for the ultimate staycation as we present our pick of the best hotel rooms and suites across the UAE.
38 MALTA
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38
44
Who wants to chill? Best see Russia's two bighitter cities in one trip. says Melissa Twigg.
The Med’s unsung island is now a stylish stunner. Tamzin Reynolds tells us whar makes it so and what not to miss.
Sarah Marshall has Kenya’s wildlife pretty much to herself during a life-affirming stay at an exclusive lodge.
IN THE CHIC MIDWINTER
HOW TO DO MALTA
PLAIN SPEAKING
RARE, INDIGENOU S, CAP T I VAT I NG Experience the alluring, golden desert landscape, the captivating silence of nature, the free-roaming wildlife in the reserve, all enjoyed from your private suite and pool. Indulge in a luxurious desert adventure with camel treks, horseback riding, falconry, archery, dune drives and more.
HOTELS THAT DEFINE THE DESTINATION
FOR RESERVATIONS, PLEASE CALL +971 4 832 9900 OR VISIT AL-MAHA.COM
OH, THE PLACES YOU'LL GO Emily Williams, dnata Travel’s resident globetrotter, reveals the places to add to your must-go list
The Black Forest, Germany
The Black Forest, a mountainous region in southwest Germany, is known for its evergreen forests and picturesque, colourful villages, with its fairy tale settings often associated with the famous tales of the Brothers Grimm. This corner of the country, bordering France and Switzerland, reaches from the spa town of Baden-Baden – famous for its thermal baths – to the Swiss border, and from the Rhine River to the beautiful Lake Constance. Made for slow touring, explore the region's incredible scenery by car, foot, or bicycle. Freiburg, the region’s largest town, features Gothic-style buildings surrounded by vineyards. Highlights 1 Pass the time at the House of Clocks, a fifth-generation family business in Triberg that sells traditional German cuckoo clocks. 2 Travel the dark gorge between Freiburg and Hinterzarten by train. Its dark and windy paths have earned it the nickname Hell’s Valley. 3 Drive an hour to Karlsruhe and visit the Palace of the same name, which houses the art-filled Baden State Museum.
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WISH LIST DESTINATIONS
Zanzibar, Tanzania
On the East Coast of Africa, off the coast of Tanzania, you’ll find exotic Zanzibar. Travel is now open to this offshore treasure, which combines spice-scented history with evocative scenery and perfect beaches. Stay in an incredible beach resort located on white sands and crystal-clear waters. Spend a day getting lost in charming Stone Town, the ancient city and UNESCO cultural heritage site. Visit Aldabra giant tortoises on Changuu Island, and experience the freshest seafood at the unique, and iconic, Rock Restaurant, located on its own rocky outcrop out in the ocean.
Highlights 1 Stroll around the markets of Stone Town before paying a visit the house where Queen frontman Freddie Mercury was born. 2 Try some traditional Urojo soup – meat and potatoes float in the flour-based broth which is seasoned with mango and lemon flavours. 3 Get up close and personal with the local primate community at Jozani National Park.
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Fujairah, UAE
At a drive time of just over two hours from Dubai, head to Fujairah for an escape from city life and some of the best snorkelling and scuba diving the UAE. Located at the country’s easternmost point, this is the only emirate with an Indian Ocean coastline. Al Aqah beach, known for its rocky outcrop, Snoopy Island, is the most popular spot for water sports. Surrounded by the Hajar Mountains, beach resorts are tucked away, offering a picturesque retreat. Its ragged peaks offer some of the UAE’s most beautiful wadis, hiking spots and scenery. Here you can also visit the oldest mosque in the country. Highlights 1 Snorkel around Snoopy Island for the chance to see an abundance of marine life, including the occasional sea turtle. 2 Visit the oldest mosque in the UAE, Al-Bidyah Mosque, which is made from mudbrick. 3 See artifacts from the Bronze and Iron Age, including a 2,200-year-old bowl made from ostrich egg at the Fujairah Fort.
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WISH LIST DESTINATIONS
Wadi Rum, Jordan
From the Red Sea to the Dead Sea, and its stunning landscapes in-between, natural beauty and epic adventures come in many different forms in Jordan. One of its most famous settings is the mighty Wadi Rum. Among the most beautiful desert landscapes in the world, Wadi Rum is a red-sand, Mars-like valley set in southern Jordan, hence why it also goes by the name ‘Valley of the Moon’. With its incredible rock formations, canyons, fascinating rock art, and the clearest of night skies, travellers can be spellbound by its protected wilderness via a hike, drive, or with a stay in a bubble tent that's perfect for spotting shooting stars. Highlights 1 Hire a knowledgeable tour guide to take you around the Rum, as they will be able to share its vibrant history as you go. 2 Pay a visit to Lawrence’s House, which is thought to have been one of the places that Arabia's legendary adventurer stayed. 3 Experience the magnitude of the dunes, mountains and canyons from the sky in a hot air balloon ride over the Rum.
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XXXXXXXXXXXXX
NOVEMBER
Globetrotter Be informed, be inspired, be there
EXCLUSIVELY INCLUSIVE Atop Dhigurah, Noonu Atoll sits the newest (and eagerly awaited) Sun Siyam resort. It opens in January 2021, and seeks to redefine the standard definition of an all-inclusive holiday. A family-friendly resort, Siyam World boasts an exotic house reef, a state-of-the-art waterpark and a wave pool – so you know unlimited fun is the MO here. Taking the hassle out of your holiday, guests will have the option to drink and dine in 12 restaurants and bars across the island, including one that will be open 24 hours. Plus, with six kilometres of cotton-soft sand and those crystalline waters of the Indian Ocean, is there a better place to start the new year?
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ONE FOR SELF-PROCLAIMED FOODIES
DOORS OPEN
Borders may be closed, but these new hotels will be waiting for you...
Hotel The Mitsui Designed to embrace Japan’s beauty and hospitality, this hotel – set to open on November 3 – is already being bookmarked by foodies. The resort has announced two unique restaurant concepts, each helmed by Michelin-starred culinary teams. TOKI will be a gastronomy teppan experience, marrying French cuisine and Kyoto culture. The other, FORNI, is an infusion of Italian cooking and Japanese ingredients.
ONE FOR NATURE LOVERS
ONE FOR PEACE SEEKERS Natural Selection Kwessi Dunes Nestled among the red dunes of Namibia’s NamibRand Nature Reserve are 12 exclusive chalets offering a slice of luxury among the baron sands. An African holiday with a twist, the reserve has been designed with slow living and respect to the natural environment in mind. Guests are invited to enjoy the subtle charms of the desert on guided walks, horseback rides, and stargazing from their bed – due to a brilliant glass ceiling.
One&Only Mandarina Mexico Located on a spectacular cliffside overlooking the Pacific Ocean, the newest One&Only, which opens this month, grants guest’s isolation on an undeveloped stretch of coastline along the Riviera Nayarit in Mexico. Allowing nature to take centre stage, the resort has been designed to blend with its verdant setting - free-standing villas seem to float above the treetops, each with their own discreet plunge pools.
Closer to home, the Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah has introduced Family Rooms and Suites, perfect for long weekends. Their Family Rooms offer adjoining rooms with a king-sized bed and two queens. While for broods who need more space, the Family Suites include separate living areas in which to spread out. For our rundown of the best suites in the UAE turn to page 18\.
IN OUR TRAVEL BAG THIS MONTH These Anaskela travellight towels are ramping up both our eco and style beach credentials this month. Their latest collection, titled Geometria, features bold prints and is made from repurposed plastic bottles. Dhs235 each, anaskela.com
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An oldie but a goldie, the industrial-strength Resurrection hand balm from Aesop is helping to bring moisture back to our over antibacterial-gelled hands. The formula is light to touch and easily absorbed, making it perfect for use on the go. Dhs105, ounass.ae
With camping season upon us, this handy projector is fueling our fireside evening entertainment. The GS2 wireless projector, by BenQ, is splash proof and allows you to download TV watching apps directly onto its Aptoide system, so you can watch Netflix under the stars or wherever you go. Dhs2,349, benq.eu/en-me
Shielding our face from pollution is the City Screen Face Serum by new beauty brand Secret Skin. The serum uses the power of echinacea to detox, while squalene hydrates to leave you looking fresh-faced and holiday ready. Dhs318, secretskin.com
GLOBETROTTER
HOW I TRAVEL THE BEST NIGHT SKY I’VE SEEN WHILE TRAVELLING IS… I can’t decide between the Milky Way with 1,000 plus stars, which I can see from the UK's Exmoor National Park with the naked eye, or the Aurora Borealis from Saariselka, which is in the Northern part of Finland. THE THING I’VE MISSED MOST ABOUT TRAVELLING IS… Being able to go abroad. However, I have still travelled to Exmoor National Park pretty much every 2-3 weeks and so that has more than made up for it. I am lucky enough to live close enough to it so that I can enjoy everything it has to offer frequently.
From top to bottom: Exmoor National Park; Saturn taken by Pete Richardson
JO RICHARDSON, UK-based professional astronomer talks starry eyed travel and shares her out of this world holiday experiences
THE THING I LOVE MOST ABOUT TRAVELLING IS… Feeling free and being with those that I love to share that experience with. THE FIRST PLACE ON MY POST-PANDEMIC TRAVEL LIST IS… Iceland. I was meant to be travelling to a remote part of Iceland last month, but the pandemic has put this on hold until next year. THE NUMBER ONE PLACE EVERYONE NEEDS TO VISIT TO SEE THE MILKY WAY IS… Exmoor National Park in England, which is one of Europe’s first International Dark Sky Reserves. WHEN I TRAVEL, I PACK… A decent pair of binoculars and a tripod in order to get the best vantage point of the stars. This is easier than carrying a large telescope and requires almost no set up time at all. Astro binoculars, a decent camera, sky map/
THE THING I LOVE MOST ABOUT TRAVELLING IS… For me it is all about feeling free and being with those that I love to share that experience with.
From left to right: Cocoon Nebula taken by Jo's husband, Pete Richardson; The Aurora Borealis
apps, map book, and a red torch (safe for us in the dark). THE STAMP IN MY PASSPORT I’M MOST PROUD OF IS… Definitely the Arctic Circle. FOR THOSE WANTING TO GET INTO ASTRONOMY TRAVEL I’D RECOMMEND… Picking a location far away from all light pollution to get the best uninterrupted views of the night sky. THE TRIP THAT CHANGED MY LIFE WAS… Visiting the Arctic Circle
was just awe inspiring. I loved the wilderness and remoteness coupled with the amazing darkness of the night-time skies. And, of course, the Aurora Borealis streaking across the dark reminding me that I am at the mercy of the Sun and travelling through space on this little ball of rock that we call home. I KEEP MYSELF ENTERTAINED WHILE TRAVELLING BY… Star gazing and having fun with my closest family.
THE BEST TIME OF YEAR TO SPOT THE MILKY WAY IS… During the winter months, between September and March, when it gets darker sooner and the night-time is longer. THE NUMBER ONE PLACE PEOPLE SHOULD TRAVEL TO SEE AN ASTRONOMICAL SIGHT IS... I'd say Exmoor National Park, for a truly dark sky; the Arctic Circle, for the Aurora Borealis; and anywhere in the world where a total Solar Eclipse is occurring. worldtravellerme.com 15
The pool at Radission Blu Dubai Media City
STAY THE FOUR CORNERS OF DUBAI Find your perfect weekend staycation with Radisson Hotels
Views of the Burj from Radisson Blu Hotel Dubai Waterfront
With numerous destinations across the Emirate, Radisson Hotels has the perfect staycation for whatever you’re in need of, be it a night away with your furry friend or a weekend spent indulging in fine cuisine. FOR SERIOUS FOODIES Radisson Blu Dubai Media City The deal: All-inclusive F&B plus, a night’s stay and 4pm checkout for Dhs499 per person. The room: Picture a sprawling king-sized bed, walk-in shower, classy finishings and you’ll have the right idea. Each of the rooms here value comfort to ensure you’ll leave the staycation feeling suitably well-rested. The food: Buckle up for a serious weekend of dining here, starting with brunch at ICON. The British-themed bar serves up the best of Blighty’s famed cuisine, from battered fish and chips to sky-high stacked burgers. Then spend the evening at outdoor rooftop – Tamanya Terrace, where you can enjoy a glass of crisp grape while watching the sun set over the Arabian Sea. The next morning, head to breakfast at ICON before settling down to a decadent a six-course meal consisting of Italian delicacies at Certo. 16 worldtravellerme.com
FOR FAMILY BRUNCHERS Radisson Blu Hotel Dubai Waterfront The deal: Book Friday brunch at FireLake Grill House for Dhs279 and you’ll get a room to stay, complimentary breakfast, plus a late checkout of 4pm. One for families, kids under six dine and stay for free here. The rooms: You’ll get a complimentary room upgrade when booking the package, so you can expect ample room in which to unwind. Request a Burj Khalifa facing room for that extra special view to wake up to.
The food: The brunch combines an upbeat atmosphere with delicious midwesterninspired cuisine – think charcoal-grilled, open-flame cooking and traditional wood ovens. The à la carte menu includes irresistible dishes such as charred lamb ribs, barbecued jerk chicken and rigatoni pomodoro. In the morning, The Larder serves up all the breakfast favourites with a seasonal twist that can be enjoyed beside the canal.
WORLD TRAVELLER X RADISSON HOTEL
FOR PET LOVERS Radisson RED Dubai Silicon Oasis The deal: You and your furry friend can book a room for just Dhs309 in this newly opened hotel located in Dubai Digital Park. The rooms: Guests will feel inspired surrounded by the crisp white walls that are splashed with red and black graffiti art. Sleek finishings complete the modern look and the supersized bed means a good night’s sleep is guaranteed. Cats and dogs not forgotten, they can enjoy their very own bed and feeding area, too. The food: All-day restaurant OUIBar + Terrace serves a mix of local and international flavours such as fully loaded nachos and ribeye steak. Plus, with the sports bar allowing animals to come and go, you can relax with furry friend in tow. Meanwhile snack lovers will want to head to the rooftop pool for a selection of nutritious bites and sunset views. Bring your furry friend with you to Radission RED Silicon Oasis
Enjoy dinner at Fish Market in Radission Blu Hotel Deira Creek
FOR CULTURE SEEKERS Radisson Blu Hotel Dubai Deira Creek The deal: For Dhs349 per person, guests can tuck into unlimited food and drink, as well as stay the night in a city view room. The room: Once you’ve taken in the local beauty of Dubai Creek, dive into a dreamy bed in one of the 288 newly renovated rooms and suites. Overlook the stunning Creek as you enjoy home comforts such as free Wifi and a complimentary morning coffee. The food: With 15 award-winning restaurants and bars, you certainly won’t go hungry here. Renowned restaurant Shabestan is the oldest and most authentic Persian eatery in Dubai. Enjoy the most delicious kebabs in the city and other signature dishes whilst enjoying the stunning Creek vistas. To find out more visit radissonhotels.com/staycationsuae
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Penthouse Suite, Four Seasons Hotel DIFC
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SUITESPOTS SPOTS2020 2020 SUITE
Well suited If we’ve learned anything in 2020 so far, it’s that travel regulations can change at any moment. For some of us, that’s a risk worth taking in order to explore new grounds or revisit homes away from home. But for many of us, it’s the perfect opportunity to discover the gems that exist right here on our doorstep.
If it’s not your flight being upgraded for your next trip, then elevate your staycation instead by upgrading your accommodation. Infinity pools, stunning desert views, private on-call chefs, architectural wonders; whatever you’re craving, you can rest assured that you can fulfil your desires right here in the UAE.
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SUITE SPOTS 2020 TWO-BEDROOM SUITE WITH TERRACE, MANDARIN ORIENTAL JUMEIRA, DUBAI Nothing but a view of blue will do? Then the Two-Bedroom Suite with Terrace at Mandarin Oriental Jumeira is the hotel room upgrade for you. Lying in your king-size bed or lounging on your supersized terrace, spend your days dreamily overlooking the glistening Gulf and nights gazing at the twinkling stars. Located on the highest floor on the hotel (which is home to so many unmissable eateries), the suite comes complete with spacious bedrooms, a large living area and two separate bathrooms featuring a marble bath and walk-in shower.
Mandarin Oriental Jumeira,
GARDEN HOUSE, THE RITZ-CARLTON ABU DHABI, GRAND CANAL A green getaway in the UAE? Sign us up. As the name suggests, this delivers just that. Not just a thing of beauty – although the hot pink bougainvillaea help – the outdoor space comes complete with a barbecue area on the private terrace. Equally as beautiful on the inside, the standout feature for us would have to be the super-sized bath – don't forget to bring your favourite book.
PALM MANOR EXECUTIVE SUITE, ONE&ONLY THE PALM, DUBAI With under a 100 rooms, suites and villas across the West Cresent-located resort, One&Only The Palm is up there when it comes to exclusivity and indulgence. And if the setting isn’t spectacular enough, then the architecture inspired by Andalusia’s Moorish palaces teamed with calming Middle Eastern influences should win over beauty seekers. But the icing on the cake has to be the Palm Manor Executive Suite. The ‘wow’ moments are near endless, but we’re in awe of its sunsoaked terrace.
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SUITE SPOTS 2020
DELUXE SUITE, BAB AL SHAMS DESERT RESORT , DUBAI An Instagram favourite, Bab Al Shams Desert Resort is an absolute must-visit for anyone residing in the UAE. While a day trip to the desert paradise will suffice, a weekend spent in the Deluxe Suite is by far the more preferable option. The entire resort oozes tranquillity and rustic charm but the Deluxe Suite brings that all together with Arabian hospitality. Those staying in the suite will receive a complimentary Cabana Experience for two which includes one main dish each, a fruit platter, four house drinks, and free-flowing soft beverages all-day.
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SUITE SPOTS 2020
DELUXE SUITE, DUKES THE PALM, DUBAI If you’re looking for a supersized infinity pool that spills over into the sea and comes complete with a picture-perfect Marina view, then Dukes The Palm‘s pool comes in top trumps. But when not taking a dip or floating along the lazy river, retreat to the Deluxe Suite to continue your unwinding getaway. The king-size bed, panoramic windows with views of either the Marina or Palm Jumeirah, and large ensuite bathroom with bathtub should help.
PENTHOUSE SUITE, LE MERIDIEN AL AQAH, FUJAIRAH Breakaway from city lights and concrete jungles and set the Hajar mountains and the Indian Ocean as your screensaver for the week instead. Perfect for families looking for a getaway from the city, this scenic resort offers up a spa, kid’s club, teen’s club, multiple leisure facilities and of course a range of tantalising international cuisine. The Penthouse Suite, being the Penthouse Suite, makes for the best vacation the resort has to offer; endless ocean views, a personal Majlis (royal welcome area), a private Jacuzzi spa, and more.
ROYAL PENTHOUSE, THE ABU DHABI EDITION If you like your luxury touches with a sleek modern finish, then this is the hotel for you. Head to the sixth floor and check into the Royal Penthouse, and be greeted by warm woods, cosy grey and cream hues and just a touch of luxe with subtle bronze details. Alight from your private lift to find two bedrooms, two living spaces (a social distancing dream) and expansive kitchen space. Naturally, there's a sizable balcony overlooking the marina. One of our favourite things about staying in the edition? The custom- made Le Labo bathroom amenities with signature EDITION scent. 22 worldtravellerme.com
EXECUTIVE VILLA, PARK HYATT ABU DHABI HOTEL AND VILLAS If family relaxation is on the agenda, this standalone villa has it all and more. Facing the beach, the two-bedroom villa sleeps four and has a huge outdoor terrace complete with its own private plunge pool and sea-facing dining terrace - perfect for entertaining guests. Inside, the luxurious living space has its own kitchen and comfortable sofas in front of the TV. The real drawcard of this space is the openplan marble bathroom, which boasts a rainfall shower, standalone bathtub, and Le Labo signature bath products. Plus, those who want to bring staff along can do so as there is a separate maid’s room with its own entrance. The resort itself combines natural beauty with traditional extravagance, promising total relaxation. A stay here means waking up to Insta-worthy views – think azure waters lapping on white sands – while the hotel’s location means you’re near to the Louvre and other city attractions.
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ABU DHABI SUITE, THE ST. REGIS ABU DHABI They say getting caught in the middle is never a good idea, but they’ve obviously never stayed the night here. Because if you’re planning to escape real life here, then there’s only one place you want to be; the Abu Dhabi Suite. Floating between the two main towers that make up the hotel, this suite offers panoramic views of the capital. As for the (giant) suite itself, you’re signing up for a screening room plus library, two-storey majlis and private spa for in-suite stress relief.
PRESIDENTIAL SUITE, RENAISSANCE DOWNTOWN HOTEL, DUBAI Some of us are just born to be in the big city. For those who are energised by the buzz of bustling urban life, booking a staycation at the Renaissance Downtown Hotel is a must. Located along the waterfront and near enough to The Dubai Mall and Burj Khalifa for easy access, but far enough for an encompassing skyline view, guests get the best of both worlds. But for the ultimate experience, a night (or two, or three) in the Presidential Suite is essential. Separate dining, living and games areas teamed with floorto-ceiling windows and artistic details throughout, it’s hard to get bored of the scenery here.
ROYAL SUITE, FAIRMONT BAB AL BAHR, ABU DHABI With views of the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, here’s a suite sought after by the famed across the world. An entire floor complete with a personal butler, private dining area, stunning living spaces and contemporary chic, we can’t imagine any complaints coming from guests resting their head at the Royal Suite within the Fairmont Bab Al Bahr for the night. Located on the beach, guests will enjoy easy sea and sand access, too.
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SUITE SPOTS 2020
ROYAL SUITE, FOUR SEASONS RESORT DUBAI AT JUMEIRAH BEACH Any resort on the beaches of Dubai will no doubt be a rejuvenating retreat for mind and body, but this suite at Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach is something else. Looking out to the glistening, blue waters, the Royal Suite offers guests an incredible 600 square metres of space to roam and relax, a private elevator, and a movie room for the film fanatics. While the fare on offer across the resorts’ numerous restaurants – Sea Fu, Folia, Mercury Lounge – is not to be missed, budding chefs will be equally happy cooking up a storm in a kitchen replete with the latest tech and tools.
TWO BEDROOM PENTHOUSE SUITE, JW MARRIOTT MARQUIS DUBAI There are penthouse suites, and then there is The Penthouse Suite at JW Marriott Marquis Dubai. The sleek decor and surrounding water canal views aside (though not by any means disregarded) guests can spend their time wandering between the giant master bedroom, twin bedroom, living room, kitchenette, study, dining room and even a majlis foyer area. Oh, and as well as three bathrooms including showers with integrated steam sauna, a private spa room also finds space on the blueprint.
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IMPERIAL SUITE, WALDORF ASTORIA RAS AL KHAIMAH Nothing but palace-esque grandeur will make the cut for your ultimate staycation? Then head to RAK and stay in Waldorf Astoria Ras Al Khaimah‘s Imperial Suite. Subtle isn’t the name of the game here; vast expanses of marble-floored decadence span across this two-storey suite. Take that endless space, add on the opulent interior design (New York Art Deco meets modern Arabia) and multiply that by a private chef, and you’ve got the formula for a perfectly royalty-worthy getaway. Throw in a grand piano for good musical measure, too.
PENTHOUSE SUITE, FOUR SEASONS HOTEL DUBAI INTERNATIONAL FINANCIAL CENTRE The ultimate way to upgrade working from home? Just take a look at the urban-chic suite from Four Seasons Hotel Dubai International Financial Centre. Views of the Burj Khalifa? Check. A dedicated office space that’s worth concentrating for? Tick. A giant bed for midday napping? Of course. A freestanding tub to soak away the stress of the day? You bet. Alternatively, leave the laptop at home and simply enjoy the Presidential Suite in all its splendour.
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SUITE SPOTS 2020
THREE BEDROOM PALACE SUITE, EMIRATES PALACE, ABU DHABI Palace by name, palace by nature. Head to Abu Dhabi for a generous serving of royal splendour at Emirates Palace, spending your vacation in none other than the Three-Bedroom Palace Suite. By day, marvel in the ultra-high ceilinged, silkwalled, expertly-furnished living and entertainment rooms, and call upon the 24-hour butler service as and when. By evening, swagger between the trio of Coral, Pearl and Diamond suites and decide which one is worthy of resting your crown on.
THE ROYAL SUITE, BURJ AL ARAB JUMEIRAH, DUBAI The original symbol of Dubai luxury (sorry, Burj Khalifa) sailshaped hotel Burj Al Arab is still an absolute must for anyone looking to step outside of their daily life into a world of pure decadence. Now take all that expert customer service and attention to detail you would expect from the 21-year-old hotel, and prepare for the dials to be twisted all the way up when you stay in the 780-squaremetre Royal Suite. Not for the minimalists out there, suite dwellers can expect animal print, gold decor, vibrant colours and much, much more.
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FIVE BEDROOM POOL SUITE, RIXOS THE PALM DUBAI HOTEL & SUITES The perfect spot to sequester away with your family, this exclusive suite promises to be your sanctuary, with its large living spaces, ample bedroom space and private pool. Ensuring privacy, when you do choose to step out of your luxurious bubble, suite dwellers will benefit from separate facilities including a tranquil pool, beach bar and authentic Turkish restaurant. The defining characteristic of a stay here is their ultra allinclusive deal which allows you the choice of dining in 11 different restaurants and bars, and for those staying in a suite, you'll also be treated to a complimentary afternoon tea. With nothing but time to spare during your stay, the resort's prime location lands you in the laps of the azure Gulf waters, while still being close enough to the action of the city, if you so desired. The Rixy Kids Club allows you the option of total relaxation as they keep little ones busy. But if solitude is high on your agenda – ensuring that you'll hardly need to leave – your suite's personal butler will see to your every whim.
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C R E AT E SPECIAL MOMENTS WITH US.
DUBAI MARRIOTT HARBOUR HOTEL & SUITES KING SALMAN BIN ABDULAZIZ AL SAUD STREET DUBAI MARINA, PO BOX 66662, DUBAI, UAE T. 971.4.319.4000 | DUBAIMARRIOTTHARBOURHOTEL.COM Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites @marriottharbour
Standing tall in the heart of Dubai Marina, featuring incomparable panoramic views of the city, combine the best of all worlds with luxurious accommodation, three contemporary dining destinations and a blissful caravanserai-inspired, Saray Spa.
Blue Lagoon, Malta
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Postcards Stories from journeys far and wide
RUSSIA p32 MALTA p48 KENYA p44
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Moscow's Manezhnaya Square
In the chic
midwinter St Petersburg majors in imperial opulence, Moscow in soaring structures of Soviet might. For maximum impact, you must do the two on one trip, says Melissa Twigg
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RUSSIA
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RUSSIA
nowflakes danced around the whippedcream Winter Palace; ice fronds fringed the moody Neva River. In the wan northern light, I watched soldiers in thick fur hats crunch across the powdery Palace Square, tailed by children throwing snowballs. A Russian friend once described the first flurries of the season as the most beautiful moment of the year — and on this late November visit, I’d arrived only hours after it. I couldn’t believe my luck. The guidebooks insist you should visit Russia during the ‘white nights’ of June, when locals drink vodka at blue-sky midnight and warm bodies fill parks under the midday sun. But I’ve always preferred it in winter. That’s when the thrill of the crackling air and the sight of vast palaces rising out of the snow create a uniquely Russian cocktail of harshness and beauty. Steaming Russian banyas (old-fashioned bath halls) warm up chill bones, while cosy restaurants and long lunches rebuff the Baltic wind. It scarcely costs more to fly into St Petersburg and out of Moscow, meaning you can get a taste of both cities in a week. I suggest you do: not only does the visa faff mean you’ll want to see as much as possible on one trip, but to understand Russia you need to experience both the stately imperial city and the postSoviet glamour of the capital. I started with the former, getting my bearings on day one by climbing the 250 steps to the colonnade of St Isaac’s Cathedral. Wrapped up like the Michelin Man, I stood at the buttress and saw Peter the Great’s vision unfold below me, a neat ramble of pastel palaces and gaudy churches. Flocks of Siberian gulls swirled around gilded spires and, far below, a woman wrapped in fox fur dragged a chair onto her balcony, then turned her sun-starved face to the sky. The cathedral — Russia’s richest and most famous — is peak St Petersburg. It is ostentatious, with a dome plated in pure gold, columns covered in lapis lazuli and a soaring ceiling painted with cherubs. Come at 5pm — an hour 34 worldtravellerme.com
Top to bottom: inside and outside of the Winter Palace, St Petersburg
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EVEN TODAY’S TECH BILLIONAIRES MIGHT FEEL HUMBLED BY THE INTERIOR OF THE ART-FILLED HERMITAGE MUSEUM
before closing — and you’ll find it lit only by candles and chandeliers. More elaborate must-sees: the Catherine Palace, with its turquoise and ice-white exterior; the ornate Mariinsky Theatre, with its worn velvet seats and gilt interior; and, of course, the Winter Palace — part of the famed Hermitage Museum complex. Even today’s tech billionaires might feel humbled by the interior of this artfilled fever dream. The state rooms are encrusted with gold and diamonds, hallways are lined with portraits of unsmiling tsars and tsarinas, and in Catherine the Great’s quarters you’ll find a lifesize mechanical peacock gilded with gold. Book a two-day ticket online to skip the queue.
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Behind Palace Square, I love to wander next to the snow-dusted frozen canals and bounce from one Tolstoyesque story to the next. This visit, I popped into the buttermilk-hued Yusupov Palace, where Rasputin devoured cakes drizzled with cyanide; then the bulbous-domed Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood, built where Alexander II was fatally wounded by assassins. Close by, I checked in at the Alexander House hotel, with its flickering fires, a library, and 20 lovely bedrooms, remarkably inexpensive given its central location. There are few St Petersburg pleasures like stepping from a murderously cold wind into the warmth of a packed restaurant. The next day, I spent the
Suite at Four Seasons St Petersburg
Vagator Beach is one of the most scenic beaches in Goa
Bank Bridge, St Petersburg
afternoon at Erivan, a gilt-edged dining hall of stained-glass windows near the Fontanka River, where I ate spicy lamb, a dish that was loved by locals in flavourless Soviet times. Later, I dined at the nearby Literary Cafe, where Pushkin ate his last meal before his fatal dual. Maybe he, like I, had the borscht, spooned from heavy bread bowls, or the creamy herring toast, served with a shot of vodka. You’ll soon learn that vodka in Russia tastes nothing like the rocket fuel served elsewhere in the world. It has a rich, rather than harsh, flavour that hits the back of the throat. One evening, I drank in the glittering Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace, then I walked along the river, snow settling
on my eyelashes, to Hat Bar, a jazz club where I danced and danced. Hard partying lives on in Russia: bars rarely close before dawn. In the morning your need is for pyshki: doughnuts glazed in sugar. I got mine at Pyshechnaya, a starkly Soviet cafe where babushkas queue with their hungry grandchildren. The steaming buns were so delicious I ate mine before they cooled, scalding my mouth on the hot sugar. From St Petersburg to Moscow it’s a three-hour journey by bullet train — it’s a cheaper, easier and much more absorbing experience than flying (reserve a seat and bring food, because there aren’t many snacks unless you go First Class). You can worldtravellerme.com 35
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take the Red Arrow sleeper train, enjoying dinner and a private cabin, though keen to watch the white desolation of the Russian countryside rush past, I went by day and pressed my nose against the window. Moscow is more than twice the size of its museum-filled sibling to the north, and three times as debauched. It pulsates with energy and power, packed with markers of both its Soviet past and glitzy present. St Petersburg’s endlessly ornate palaces may be lovely, but Moscow’s sumptuous department stores, vast Stalinist apartment blocks and intimidating architecture (the Kremlin’s in particular) are exhilarating to behold. Keep your focus within the Garden Ring — a road that circles inner Moscow — where a contemporary, often nouveau-riche atmosphere prevails, with oligarchs’ wives dripping in Louis Vuitton and burly bodyguards lurking on street corners. Stay as central as you can — for instance at Baltschug Kempinski — and instead of burning your credit cards in the neighbouring shops, stand very still in the awe-inspiringly vast Red Square, steeping yourself in the atmosphere. I stood there, with my back to the churning, freezing Moskva River, and stared up at St Basil’s Cathedral. With its giant balloon domes swirled with emerald and sky-blue stripes, it looks like a church wearing fancy dress. Opposite, within the walls of the mighty Kremlin, are entire squares, museums, cathedrals and a vast collection of diamonds. I skipped Lenin’s eerie mausoleum next door, having seen it before — although 36 worldtravellerme.com
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fascinating, the sight of his embalmed corpse is something you only need to see once. (It’s free, but if you don’t want to queue, most hotels can sort private tours for about $75pp for two hours — a move of which the man himself would surely not have approved.) Despite Moscow’s sprawling dimensions, most of its must-sees are concentrated within a few dazzling square miles. A 10-minute walk from Red Square lies the dripping-in-gold Bolshoi Theatre, where Russians still dress up for the ballet like Anna Karenina — in floor-length gowns and dagger-sharp stilettos. A show here is like none other, and it’s best to book tickets two months ahead. Pricey restaurants peddling high-end French food dot inner Moscow, but I prefer spots such as Sahli, an old-world Georgian restaurant where a raucous band plays music as you grapple with khinkali, meat-filled dumplings you eat with your hands. Top tip: if you want to hear a word your partner is saying, sit as far from the stage as possible. For drinks, head to Voda, an underground bar with no street signage and what looks like a Stalinist thug at the door. It only has 20 tables, and there’s no menu — you tell the bartender what you like and he invents something on the spot. That comes as a relief in a city where everything is in excess — although the same can’t be said for the head-turning clientele, who look as if they’ve flown in from Paris Fashion Week. My advice? Put on every last piece of jewellery you own — and even then be prepared to fade into the background. Even the bath houses are extravagant. One
afternoon I visited Sanduny, the most luxurious banya in the city, resplendent with marble floors and arched ceilings shiny like gold. The super-rich were congregating — they book private pools and saunas regularly — but for the public areas are gorgeous enough. Even the elite wouldn’t have been safe from the ‘massage’ treatment I had: a branch-thwacking by a burly attendant that was, to put it mildly, terrifying. Wallets, too, will take more of a beating in Moscow than St Petersburg. For all the Cold War architecture on offer, Moscow’s department stores feel like New York on overdrive — Tsum is packed with edgy Russian fashion brands, part brocade and fur, part grungy, urban design. I couldn’t afford any of it, but I still wanted to take a small piece of Russia home with me. If vodka is one cliché here, caviar is the other. For one final time I descended into the chandelier-festooned, stuccoed metro stations — a far more beautiful experience than taking a taxi — and emerged at Eliseevskiy, a gilded food hall where Muscovites with discernment have been calling in to buy caviar by the kilo since Lenin was a student. I lingered next to the white-gloved attendants — it turns out that, if you ask nicely and look as if you’re ready to whip out your credit card, they’ll produce a small silver spoon covered in half a dozen eggs. My favourite was the absurdly delicious Kaluga. I bought a black caviar, and a few days later I ate it straight out of the jar with a spoon, popping the salty eggs on the roof of my mouth. It was the perfect taste of Russia. To book a trip, call 800 DNATA or visit dnatatravel.com
Credit: : The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/News Licensing
DESPITE MOSCOW’S SPRAWLING DIMENSIONS, MOST OF ITS MUSTSEES ARE CONCENTRATED WITHIN A FEW DAZZLING SQUARE MILES
Christmas in Moscow's Red Square
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These pages, from left to right: umbrellas decorate Zabbar Street; rows of sailing boats in Grand Bay, Valetta
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MALTA
Modish Malta Avant-garde art, hip hotels and a fab foodie scene — the Med’s unsung island is now a stylish stunner
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SEE AND DO
Getting to know ‘new’ Malta means exploring its capital, Valletta. A UNESCO World Heritage City, set above one of the world’s most beautiful natural harbours, it’s been spectacularly revitalised of late. Start at the 16th-century City Gate entrance, re-modelled for the 21st century in sharp-angled limestone by the Shard architect, Renzo Piano. Then stray into alleys buzzing with indie boutiques, boho bars and hipster cafes. Contemporary art is on an upswing, thanks to upstart creative enclaves and new world-class galleries. Visit artist-run Blitz for exhibitions in a 400-year-old townhouse, and Valletta Contemporary for avant-garde local and international works by the likes of Brian Eno and Damien Hirst. On a bigger scale, head to the Spazju Kreattiv, a Knights-era fort with galleries, an arthouse cinema and live performances Its Arabic, French, Italian and British heritage mean modern Malta serves up everything from ancient fish recipes to fashionable fusion. For the foodie lowdown, book a threehour Taste of Malta class at Valletta’s Mediterranean Culinary Academy. You’ll try traditional snacks — Maltese sausage, gbejna (goat’s cheeselets) and bigilla (bean dip) — then don an apron to hand-roll irkotta-stuffed cannelloni to scoff with local wine. In the evenings, Valletta’s residents reclaim the streets, spilling out from bars. Head for Strait Street, aka the Gut — once a haunt of sailors, now lined with cool bars. Tico-Tico serves up cocktails, tapas and live jazz amid walls hung with ’40s sirens. The more refined Trabuxu, Malta’s first wine bar, is still among its best, set in a 400-year-old vaulted stone cellar Take in the postcard views from Upper Barrakka Gardens across the harbour to the fortified Three Cities of Birgu, Senglea and Cospicua. A 10-minute water-taxi or ferry deposits you at Birgu, a medieval medley of cobbled lanes, with historic bighitters, including the Inquisitor’s Palace and Fort St Angelo. The modern way to explore it is in a Rolling Geeks electric buggy with pre-programmed GPS guiding you. 40 worldtravellerme.com
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ENJOY MOVIESET LANDSCAPES LACED WITH ANCIENT SHEPHERDS’ TRAILS,
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MALTA
Malta is easy to explore — you can drive its length in little over an hour. Head north for secluded beaches (try Selmun Bay and Ghajn Tuffieha) and enjoy movie-set landscapes laced with ancient shepherds’ trails, peppered with red poppies and purple orchids, heady with the scent of wild thyme. You’ll see more on horseback. Saddle up at the Bidnija Riding Stables Malta’s not one island, but three — don’t miss frozen-in-time Gozo and sleepy Comino (population: three). Take a day tour: you’ll be whizzed around in a tuk-tuk in Gozo, visiting beaches and watchtowers not accessible to bus tours. Then off for a lunch on Comino, with a dip in clear waters at the Blue Lagoon.
WHERE TO EAT
These pages, clockwise from far left: Wied iż-Żurrieq; a horse pulls a cart; a British-style red postbox; an inventive dish served up at Noni
IS-SUQ TAL-BEIT Because: Valletta’s old market hall, with its Victorian ironwork, has been beautifully revived with stall-sized offshoots of top local restaurants. WT’s tip: Stock up on all the best basics — charcuterie, wine, plus foodie souvenirs — in the basement supermarket. Triq il-Merkanti, NONI Because: Mixing Maltese flavours with French techniques, chef Jonathan ‘Noni’ Brincat gets rave reviews. Try the rabbit confit croquettes or octopus tagine with marjoram oil. WT’s tip: Save room for dessert. The star is the te fit-tazza — a spin on Malta’s traditional ‘tea in a glass’. DIAR IL-BNIET Because: Using only supplies from the family farm, this slow-food trailblazer excels at Maltese classics — fried rabbit, pies, delicious roasts — plus oils, wines and jams to take home. WT’s tip: Malta’s best coastal views are from nearby Dingli Cliffs — leave time to do both. HARBOUR CLUB Because: In a prime perch overlooking the Grand Harbour, it takes these elegant Med dishes — wild seabass, mussels and nasturtium, say — to distract from the glittering view. WT’s tip: If you want a table on the terrace, you’ll need to book in advance. worldtravellerme.com 41
HAMMETT’S MACINA Because: The setting — fortress walls, harbour views and sleek teal and brass decor — is as head-turning as the food: citrus-cured lampuki fish, or tuna with soya caramel. WT’s tip: Malta’s melting-pot character shines in the six-course tasting menu — great value at $60.
SIP AND SHOP
CAFE SOCIETY Because: It’s a cosy drinking den with locals spilling out onto Valletta’s limestone steps, clutching craft brews and unusual cocktails. Live bands and DJs provide tunes. WT’s tip: Find it under the retro ‘Ladies Hair Stylist’ sign — and bear in mind it’s cash only.
BIRGU BLUE RENDEZ-VOUS Because: It’s a tat-free zone for decorative lifestyle and foodie gifts, where leather artisan Ozzy crafts beautiful accessories, from card holders to cat collars. WT’s tip: Ask him to personalise leather items or do you a custom-made design.
WHERE TO STAY
VALLETTA VINTAGE Because: You’ll fantasise about living in these mid-century modern studios, owned by the architect behind some of Valletta’s most stunning historic conversions, including Casa Ellul. Gallery, Library and Atelier share sunny roof terraces with 360-degree views. WT’s tip: Hideout, the cheapest, is in medieval Birgu — ideal for peace and local vibes. WESTIN DRAGONARA Because: On its own peninsula, with two private beach lidos, this resort ticks a lot of boxes: spacious rooms, generous sports facilities, sophisticated dining and, best of all, a spa. 42 worldtravellerme.com
WT’s tip: Malta is renowned for its scuba-diving — and with a PADI five-star dive centre on site, this is the place to have a go. LA FALCONERIA Because: It’s moments from Valletta’s main sights, but tucked down a side street cocooned from noise and crowds. Suave styling, a buzzed-about restaurant, and a plunge pool in the cave-like basement add to the appeal. WT’s tip: The cheapest rooms, which face the inner courtyard, are dark, but quiet. CUGO GRAN MACINA Because: It’s a Knights-era landmark in ancient Senglea, reborn as a high-end design hotel. Black marble and Nordic furniture set off the ancient golden limestone, and there’s a stunning Grand Harbour panorama from its rooftop pool. WT’s tip: The foot ferry takes you to Valletta in 10 minutes, but it’s a lot more atmospheric on a gondola-like dghajsa.
CASA ELLUL Because: One of Valletta’s first palazzo conversions, it’s still Malta’s loveliest boutique hotel, with decor to swoon over. The nine suites range from classic — Maltese tilework, rolltop tubs and family antiques — to roughluxe, all poured-concrete walls, hot tubs and glass-wrapped terraces. WT’s tip: Seek out the Ellul brothers’ wine shop on St Lucia Street — guests get free tastings. THE PHOENICIA Because: The Phoenicia is Malta’s original grande dame, an Art Deco beauty by Valletta’s City Gate, with a ballroom beloved by a just-married Queen Elizabeth II. A sleek refurb has brought the marble-clad interiors bang up-to-date and added a jaw-drop infinity pool beneath the bastion walls. WTl’s tip: Stay on a Thursday for ‘manager’s drinks’ — a sociable soirée with free canapés and fizz. To book a trip, call 800 DNATA or visit dnatatravel.com
Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/News Licensing; images: © Viewing Malta
LOT SIXTY ONE Because: This speciality roastery-cafe does the island’s best coffee — plus trendy turmeric iced chai lattes. WT’s tip: It’s tiny, but its outside tables are great for people-watching.
MALTA
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YOU’LL FANTASISE ABOUT VALLETTA VINTAGE, OWNED BY THE ARCHITECT BEHIND SOME OF VALLETTA'S MOST STUNNING HISTORIC CONVERSIONS
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CROATIA These pages: sunset over Lengishu Š Backdrop Agency
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KENYA
PL AI N S PE AKI N G
Sarah Marshall has Kenya’s wildlife pretty much to herself during a stay at an exclusive lodge that takes its comfort as seriously as its conservation
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t’s the iconic opening of The Lion King: the moment Mufasa assumes his clifftop throne as an amber sun melts into the tangled bush of his Pride Lands. A similarly heartswelling sense of satisfaction washed over me as I watched clouds glide across vast plains and the foothills of Mount Kenya, which, for the next few days, I’d have almost to myself. The outcrop immortalised by Disney is a short drive away, part of the privately owned 32,000-acre Borana Conservancy in northern Kenya, on the Laikipia Plateau, where skies are big, wildlife is plentiful, and people are few and far between. Only six guest properties are spread across the protected land: the small-scale Borana Lodge and five splendid private-hire homes. I was staying at Lengishu, the last house to be built; no more properties will open in this conservation-focused place. Arriving after a five-hour drive from Nairobi (scheduled and charter flights are also available), I was ushered through heavy wooden doors to find brocade curtains drawn and a glass of ruby shiraz glinting in front of an open hearth. The sense of warmth and welcome was immediate. The British owners, Minnie and Joe MacHale, built the property with family in mind. When not rented to tourists, it’s a sanctuary for their extended clan, and feels livedin as a result. A Wimbledon Centre Court hospitality lanyard dangles from a bedstead, framed photographs of grandchildren fill sideboards, and there’s a carved wooden 1920s chest from Zanzibar — a gift from Minnie’s grandparents. “It was a dressing-up box during my childhood,” Minnie told me. Discreetly tucked into the hillside, a main house and four thatched cottages feature six bedrooms, sleeping up to 12, and are available only for exclusive use — a trend likely to shape safari holidays in the post-coronavirus world. A team of gardeners, housekeepers and chefs make days effortless. Breakfast can be served on a flagstone veranda, lunch in gardens swirling with sunbirds, and dinner in a cathedral of a dining room. The choice was
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DAYS CAN PASS WITHOUT EVEN GLIMPSING ANOTHER GUEST mine. I could start the day lazily in the infinity pool and end it with a bush walk — or run — on an undulating track alongside the electric perimeter fence. Activities are also fully flexible, including horse riding or mountain biking along the escarpment, private game drives across the conservancy, and a rare opportunity to track rhinos on foot. Having disappeared more than 50 years ago, black rhinos were reintroduced to the area in 2013. The same year a fence between Borana and the neighbouring Lewa conservancy was taken down to create a shared 94,000-acre habitat, allowing more rhinos to drift across. Now the population exceeds 200, making this one of east Africa’s most important rhino sanctuaries. Accompanied by Rianto Lokoran, second in command of Borana’s anti-poaching team, I trudged through sticky black cotton mud to join scouts who had been out since 6.30am tracking white rhinos as part of a co-ordinated 24-hour system of surveillance. “We read the ground like a book,” Rianto said, pointing to footprints the size of dinner plates — clues that would allow a story to unfold. In the distance two rhinos grazed below in the shadow of Mount Kenya. Moving behind mounds for cover, we crept so close I could hear their jaws grinding like millstones; upwind from us, they had no idea we were there. But a capricious breeze quickly ended our spellbound encounter and, sensing danger, they moved on. There are few safer havens than Borana. More than 100 pairs of eyes monitor the animals, tracking individuals identifiable by a notch in their ears on a daily basis. If one goes missing for more than ten days a search plane is sent out. All this protection comes at a cost, footed mainly by the conservancy. Rather than relying on multiple donors and grants, however, Borana has come up with a more robust, self-sustaining system.
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The estate has been divided into nine shares, with five retained by the original landowners, the Dyer family, and four sold to private buyers, such as Minnie and Joe. Each shareholder commits US$100,000 a year to fund the conservancy, and in return has permission to build a property on an allocated plot of land. The dependable flow of finances means Borana has been able to weather the coronavirus storm, and temporary pause in tourism activity, better than most. When Michael Dyer came here in 1984, the cattle and sheep farm founded by his ancestors in the early 1900s was ravaged by drought; the land was barren and much livestock had died. He opened Borana Lodge in 1993 and officially formed the conservancy 18 years later. “We live in the most beautiful place in the world. You have to take care of it,” he told me over drinks one evening in Lengishu’s drawing room, where we were flanked by statues of two Amazon warriors. Borana has been accredited as a centre of excellence in sustainability by the Long Run, a non-profit organisation setting standards for nature-based tourism, and is on a mission to become carbon-neutral through its use of renewable energy and tree-planting schemes. The MacHales follow the same ethos. Lengishu’s electricity is solar-generated, bath water recycled and used for irrigation, and firewood sourced from sustainable woodland. During construction a main concern was protecting the profile of the landscape. Any stone removed from the hillside became a key building material for the low-rise cottages, which blur into the valley ridge. “It might sound dotty, but building a lodge in virgin bush, the landscape tells you what to do,” Minnie said. She worked with an architect, and was behind the eclectic interior design. “For three years I hunted down
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This page, clockwise from top left: a cheetah sets its sights © Backdrop Agency; Fish Eagle room © Stevie Mann; Goshawk room © Stevie Mann
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This page, clockwise from top: sunrise over Mount Kenya; rhino tracking; a lion relaxes. All images Š Backdrop Agency
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Credit: Sarah Marshall / The Times / News Licensing
KENYA
pieces. Whether it was at 6.30am at Kempton Park racecourse antiques market or haggling for little Burundian chairs in the backstreets of Nairobi.” The look is a quirky combination of stately home and curio store, with vibrant Masai and Turkana fabrics, beds made with teak reclaimed from retired dhows, and a bench from an upcycled dug-out canoe. “I was trying to combine that earthiness and organic feeling of the outside with a certain amount of elegance.” Colour continues in gardens decorated exclusively with native plants such as succulent aloe flowers and wiry lion’s ear thistles, whose swaying orange whorls roar faintly in the highlands’ afternoon winds. Herbs are grown for use in the kitchen, but most vegetables are supplied by Borana’s Waitabit Farm, the largest organic permaculture project in east Africa. Dyer’s son, Llewellyn, who owns and operates the farm, took me on a tour of his fields on the eastern bank of the Ngare Ndare River. Speaking animatedly about seed varieties, farming philosophies and a revival of victory gardens (a wartime effort encouraging people to grow their own veg), he was extremely knowledgeable. By resurrecting forgotten farming techniques, he’s encouraging surrounding communities to adopt new ways of saving time, money and the environment. A bathtub filled with manure-churning earthworms provides a healthy alternative to chemical fertilisers, for example, while keeping chickens in a field is an effective means of scratching up soil in preparation for planting fruit trees. “Everything is a cycle, but we think in a linear way,” he reflected as we walked around the site. “We take the shortest route.” There were no shortcuts the next morning when my private guide, Nissa, took me on a long game drive in search of black rhinos, notoriously secretive animals that prefer the cover of bush. We eventually found a mother and calf trailed by a curious, persistent male. Despite her rejections, he continued to spray scent, with blasts more powerful than a garden hose. His bravado demanded an audience, but the only crowds gathered were herds of
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STREWN ACROSS A HILLSIDE, CUBS ROLLED IN THE LONG OAT GRASS WHILE MALES WITH BOUNTIFUL MANES SURVEYED THE HORIZON
uninterested cattle and buffalo. Unlike in so many of Kenya’s popular safari sites, queues of vehicles are uncommon on the conservancy, and days can pass without even glimpsing another guest. Of course, having fewer eagle-eyed guides on the ground does have its disadvantages, but rangers and scouts on patrol share reports of sightings, and even if animals are sometimes harder to track, they can almost always be observed alone. Uninterrupted, I spent hours watching a lioness cosset her suckling cubs in a cradle of thorny shrubs. Another afternoon I was transfixed by vervet monkeys sucking sap from yellow-barked acacia trees and was able to enjoy the sideshow without pressure from bored, Big Five-chasing passengers to move on. Apart from overnight guests, visitors to Borana are strictly controlled, although elephants always have the right to come and go. A stone-wall boundary is used to contain rhinos, but nine corridors and an underpass have been created to allow the movement of migrating elephant herds. Their loyalty to a route is astounding, with well-hewn footpaths streaking the grasslands and winding all the way to Mount Kenya. I witnessed a matriarch lead a procession through one of the designated gateways, commanding her clan with a baritone rumble and nudging a calf with her trunk. Like a family diligently obeying the green cross code, they even stopped at the road and waited for trucks to pass by. A public thoroughfare bisects Borana, but community is at the core
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of the conservancy in more ways than one. Funds are used to support neighbouring schools, and a mobile medical clinic operates in partnership with the government, travelling more than 1,000 miles a month. A livestock to market scheme provides pastoralists with grazing areas and fair prices for cattle, and staff — including Lengishu’s employees — are all local. The assistance of locals is crucial. Fences and search planes combat poaching, but it’s human eyes and ears that keep Borana’s wildlife safe; community is the first line of defence. Even when one of their calves was killed by lions during my stay, farmers refused to retaliate. Instead, they helped us to find the 22-strong pride. Strewn across a hillside, cubs rolled in the long oat grass while males with bountiful manes surveyed the horizon. There were no whirring engines or disruptive human chatter. It wasn’t quite Pride Rock, but this was very much their domain. Returning to Lengishu, I was struck by the absence of any nagging urgency to get back out to the bush — my downtime had proved to be just as uplifting as my experience tracking animals in the wilderness. Opening my curtains to see the sky ignite at dawn, listening to high-pitched sunbirds hover outside my bedroom window, sitting cross-legged on a threadbare rug in front of the fire. When it comes to feelgood moments, Lengishu easily rivals even the best-loved Disney film. To book a trip, call 800 DNATA or visit dnatatravel.com worldtravellerme.com 49
IDYLLIC INDIAN OCEAN
Life on the road If your preferred mode of exploration is by car, worry not if your international travel plans have been put on hold, as the UAE is home to some of the world’s most stunning road trips around
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ROAD TRIP
Liwa Oasis, Abu Dhabi
Travel time: 4 hours We recommend this road trip if you’ve got friends and family visiting the UAE, as there really is nothing else like it. Here you’ll see the best of the desert, stretching for mile upon mile of unspoilt views. You’ll be able to show your guests an authentic UAE experience, with camel riding and dune bashing, followed by traditional Arabic food under the night sky. Make sure to visit Qasr Al Sarab by Anantara, as it was voted the world’s most Instagrammable hotel in 2019, don’t you know. The Liwa Desert is also home to the world’s largest uninterrupted stretch of sand desert in the world – known as the in the Empty Quarter.
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Jebel Jais, Ras Al Khaimah
Travel time: 2 hours Not only is there plenty to gawp at on the journey, but there’s also so much to do when you arrive. This trip is great for the adventure seekers, with plenty of things to do to set your heart racing. The world’s longest zip line in Jebel Jais isn’t for the faint-hearted but gives you the best possible views of the mountain range – which was formed over 70 million years ago. Even if you don’t fancy the zip line itself, the drive up is worth it for the spectacular mountain views. The only drawback of hurtling along the zip line is you can’t take video/photos on the way down as your hands are tied behind your back (although you do wear a GoPro on your head but the camera faces you rather than the view) – but the experience will live long in the Sunset at Jebel Jais mountain
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memory anyway. RAK has all the luxury hotels and resorts you can ask for so there’s plenty of ways to relax after an adventure-filled day.
Hatta
Travel time: 1.5 hours For Dubai residents, this is easily a road trip favourite as it’s just 90 minutes away from the city. Hatta, a heritage village situated in the Hajar Mountains, has recently opened the Sedr Trailers Resort by Meraas, a glamping-style trailer park with your very own deck to sit out upon. Hatta’s famous dam is flanked by mountains making it the ideal place to get photos for the ‘gram. You can kayak and paddle board, too. Also on offer at the Hatta Wadi Hub is zorbing, archery, mountain biking and axe throwing – plenty to keep you occupied for a weekend. The Hatta Fort Hotel is the best place to stay if you’re looking for a more luxurious room for
Hatta Lake and Hajar Mountains
Musandam
ROAD TRIP Wadi Shawka, Ras Al Khaimah
from life in the city. Nature lovers can sleep under the stars in one of Jebel Hafeet Desert Park’s bubble tents. After a good night’s sleep, make for the Garden City to enjoy the sea of greenery, before heading up to Jebel Hafeet. You can drive up, or if you really fancy a challenge cycle the 1,240 metres to the top.
Musandam
the night. The four-star hotel is the oldest in Hatta and has two outdoor pools and a spa.
Snoopy Island, Fujairah
Travel time: 2 hours The journey to the east coast emirate is one of the best you can do in the UAE, as you’ll see the changing landscape from the sandy desert to the incredible w mountains on the horizon. The journey will take you about two hours when travelling from Dubai. You’ll certainly want to stretch your legs when you arrive and Fujairah is a hotbed for water sport fans. Snoopy Island is one of the best places in the UAE for snorkelling, and paddle boarding in Dibba is also very popular. Time it right and you’ll be able to attend one of the annual beach parties on Snoopy Island, which involves camping under the stars. If that’s not your thing there are plenty of topnotch hotels on the beach, too.
sunset if you can. Afterwards you can do as the locals do and play music and cook food on a grill (take one of those disposable BBQs with you) and enjoy being at one with nature. There is little in the way of shops here so bring everything you’re going to need with you beforehand. It’s around 143 kms away from Dubai and should take you around an hour or so.
Jebel Hafeet, Al Ain
Travel time: 2 hours Jebel Hafeet, the highest point in Abu Dhabi (and second highest in the UAE) is only two hours away from Dubai and the only UNESCO World Heritage Site in the UAE. This road trip takes you on an unforgettable wildlife adventure, which will seem a million miles away
Travel time: 3 hours Who’d have thought you could swim with dolphins just a few hours drive away from Downtown Dubai? Musandam is the perfect city escape where you’ll be able to take in magnificent views en route, to one of the most fun day trips you can do in the region. A group of you hiring a boat is a perfect, inexpensive, escape that’ll give you memories to last a lifetime. It’s been said that this road trip offers the best views in the UAE, and with 172 kms of road ahead of you, there’s plenty to see. You’ll need to take a valid passport as you'll enter Oman, so you need a visa, which will be issued on arrival at a cost of around Dhs200. The stunning fjords have given the small city of Khasab the nickname of ‘Norway of the Middle East’, and it’s no wonder given the similar landscape.
Jabel Hafeet mountain
Author: Nick Watkins
Wadi Shawka, Ras Al Khaimah
Travel time: 1 hour For a real off-road adventure, Wadi Shawka is a perfect way to spend the day. It’s best if you take a 4X4 to tackle the various mountainous roads you’ll encounter en route. It’s a hiker's paradise with multiple rocky trails to follow too. The most popular of which is around the dam, where you’ll find 174 steps leading up to a magnificent viewpoint. Get to the top in time for worldtravellerme.com 53
WORLD TRAVELLER X PARK HYATT DUBAI
STAYCATION
Park Hyatt Dubai Timeless style meets outstanding amenities on the yacht-lined banks of the Creek THE ROOMS & SUITES Making the most of its enviable location on the banks of Dubai's historic waterway, every room at this style icon is blessed with creek views. Soak them up from one of two palm-shaded terraces in a beautifully attired Park Suite, a modern chic enclave boasting plush carpets, a standalone bathtub and the opportunity to connect to another room. Perfect for all the family.
THE FOOD From hearty to haute, the cuisines offered here are plentiful. Start your day with eggs Benedict overlooking the golf course, and end it with fiery Thai aside the creek. In between, try the New England meets Nikkei menu at Noepe, head to Boardwalk for St Tropez vibes and a sublime salt-baked sea bass, or, come the weekend, indulge in the Dubai institution that's the Traiteur brunch.
THE ACTIVITIES Sports options abound at Park Hyatt. Swing into action at the iconic 18-hole Dubai Creek course, or join the growing number of padel tennis enthusiasts by playing on one of two courts. Exercise ticked off for the day, soak up the sun at the hotel's uniquely brilliant 100-metre infinity lagoon pool, before rounding off your afternoon with a treatment at the idyllic Amara Spa.
To find out more, call +971 4 602 1234 or visit hyatt.com 54 worldtravellerme.com
Located in Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht Club on the banks of the majestic Dubai Creek, Park Hyatt Dubai provides an idyllic setting for a luxury getaway. Make every moment memorable and experience a host of activities at the resort including: A collection of award winning dining venues 18-hole Championship golf course, padel tennis and tennis courts Golf, tennis and padel tennis academies The Cave Kids Club Luxurious treatments at AMARA Spa The Lagoon Beach overlooking the Dubai Creek and skyline Private or group personal training sessions For more information and to book please contact +971 4 602 1234 email dubai.park@hyatt.com or visit parkhyattdubai.com @parkhyattdubai
WORLD TRAVELLER X SOFITEL DUBAI THE PALM
STAYCATION
Sofitel Dubai The Palm For a staycation that feels like a holiday, escape to this Polynesian paradise this winter THE ROOMS & SUITES With a dozen options for where to rest easy at night – including multi-room apartments and opulent villas – the choice here is exhaustive. Let us take the strain by recommending the fabulous Prestige Suite. Comfortably large enough for a family of four, it bestows perfect Palm views from its sun-kissed balcony and enormous bathrooms, replete with decadent circular bathtubs.
THE FOOD Just like the rooms, choices abound when it comes to dining here. The World Eatery, as its name suggests, does myriad dishes exceptionally well; Maui offers up the best power bowls in the city; while choice cuts sourced from across the globe are always grilled to perfection at Porterhouse Steaks & Grills. Round off dinner here with a flambéed-at-your-table baked Alaska.
THE ACTIVITIES A veritable paradise for kids, who will love to make a splash at the Palm's first floating bounce park and scream for joy as they hurtle down slides in their own dedicated pool, it's also somewhere grown-ups will adore. There's a superb swathe of beach and an exceptional spa, where treatments – such as the Polynesian Taurumi massage – deliver that instant holiday feeling.
To find out more, call +971 4 455 6677 or visit sofitel-dubai-thepalm.com 56 worldtravellerme.com
WORLD TRAVELLER X LE MÉRIDIEN AL AQAH BEACH RESORT
STAYCATION
Le Méridien Al Aqah Beach Resort Scenic natural beauty meets wholesome family-fun at this Fujairah based hotel THE ROOMS & SUITES With the resort set to a backdrop of the Hajar Mountains and floor-toceiling windows exhibiting impressive Indian Ocean views, a stay here is a reconnection with nature. If a balcony is desirable, the Superior Room is a sound choice, or if you’re after an exclusive experience a Royal Club room or suite comes with express check-in, and access to the Royal Club Lounge.
THE FOOD With eight restaurants and bars to choose from, variety is the spice of a staycation here. Taste offers up the flavours of Thailand served in a stylish environment, while the Gonu Bar & Grill is your go-to for grilled meats and alfresco ocean-side dining. Italian dishes and ambiance are on the menu at Sapore, with Baywatch Beach Bar cooks up fresh Mediterranean dishes on the sand.
THE ACTIVITIES Al Aqah beach calls with its various ocean-based activities; those with a PADI Certification can explore a wreck close by and meet the local marine life. Or get even closer to the fish – including tuna and barracuda with a Fly-Fishing experience. Those looking to recharge should head to Spa Al Aqah for an extensive rejuvenation experience including Ayurvedic treatments.
To find out more, call +971 9 244 9000 or visit marriott.com 58 worldtravellerme.com
Book the ultimate getaway to Fujairah’s iconic resort. Soak up the panoramic views of the Indian Ocean from your spacious sea facing room, dive into the largest pool on the East coast, dine at a choice of seven distinct restaurants, or re-energize with adrenalin fueled water-sports. Offering one of the best beach resort experiences in the region, Le Méridien Al Aqah is the ideal location for intimate getaways, special occasions, weekend breaks and family holidays. For more information or to book your stay, call + 971 9 244 9000 or visit our website www.lemeridien-alaqah.com
N 25° 30’ E 56° 21’ DESTINATION UNLOCKED
1 INSPIRED BY
Reader offers Great deals to get you packing
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FOUR FANTASTIC HOLIDAYS MALDIVES
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Includes: Stay 3 nights in a Deluxe Room with private return airport transfers Valid: Until 15 December 2020
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3 nights starting from USD 800 per person
DNATA TRAVEL OFFERS
WEEKEND ESCAPES UAE
WALDORF ASTORIA PALM JUMEIRAH DUBAI 1 night starting from USD 125 per person Includes: Stay 1 night in a Superior Room with breakfast & dinner Offer: Savings on stay, kids stay & eat free, 20% discount on spa Valid: Until 20 December 2020 W DUBAI THE PALM 1 night starting from USD 125 per person Includes: Stay 1 night in a Wonderful Room with breakfast & dinner Offer: Savings on stay, kids stay & eat free, buy 1 get 1 free on all spa treatments Valid: Until 20 December 2020 AL MAHA, A LUXURY COLLECTION DESERT RESORT & SPA DUBAI 1 night starting from USD 665 per person Includes: Stay 1 night in a Bedouin Suite with breakfast, lunch and dinner Offer: Savings on stay Valid: Until 20 December 2020 HATTA - JA FORT HOTEL 1 night starting from USD 140 per person Includes: Stay 1 night in a Deluxe Mountain View Room with breakfast & dinner Offer: Kids stay and eat free Valid: Until 20 December 2020 HILTON RAS AL KHAIMAH RESORT & SPA 1 night starting from USD 150 per person Includes: Stay 1 night in a Guest Room Room with breakfast & dinner Offer: Savings on stay, kids stay & eat free Valid: Until20 December 2020
THE RITZ CARLTON RITZCARLTON AL KHAIMAH, AL HAMRA BEACH 1 night starting from USD 430 per person Includes: Stay 1 night in the Al Bahar Tented Beach Pool Villa with breakfast Offer: Savings on stay, kids stay & eat free Valid: Until 3 November 2020
Cove Rotana Resort Ras Al Khaimah
COVE ROTANA RESORT RAS AL KHAIMAH 2 nights starting from USD 175 per person Includes: Stay 2 nights in a Classic Room Garden View with breakfast daily Offer: Savings on stay, kids stay & eat free Valid: Until 30 November 2020 FUJAIRAH ROTANA RESORT & SPA 3 nights starting from USD 335 per person Includes: Stay 3 nights in a Classic Room Balcony Garden View with breakfast and dinner daily Offer: Savings on stay, kids stay & eat free Valid: Until 30 November 2020
W Dubai The Palm The Ritz Carlton Ras Al Khaimah, Al Hamra Beach
THE ST REGIS SAADIYAT ISLAND RESORT ABU DHABI 1 night starting from USD 295 per person Includes: Stay 1 night in a Superior Room with breakfast and dinner Offer: Savings on stay, kids stay & eat free Valid: Until 20 December 2020 ZAYA NURAI ISLAND ABU DHABI 1 night starting from USD 595 per person Includes: Stay 1 night in a Beach Villa with private pool with breakfast Offer: Savings on stay Valid: Until 20 December 2020 Zaya Nurai Island, Abu Dhabi
How to book
By calling dnata on 800 DNATA
By stepping into a dnata outlet or by visiting dnatatravel.com
On the website you can also sign up to the dnata newsletter and receive more offers direct to your inbox. T&Cs apply.
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TRAVEL INSURANCE WITH
COVID-19 COVERAGE
Safeguard yourselves with the right Travel Insurance policy. Here’s what we offer. FEATURES AND BENEFITS OF OUR INBOUND TRAVEL INSURANCE Cover for COVID-19 and quarantine following a positive diagnosis Emergency treatment and hospital - inpatient and outpatient with direct billing/cashless facility 24/7 emergency services provided by a leading international assistance company 150,000 AED of emergency medical cover Repatriation costs & emergency transport services
POLICY COVERS: • UAE visit visa holders • Extended UAE visit visa holders • Change of visa status from Residency visa to Visit visa DURATION
PRICING INCL. VAT (AED)
BENEFIT
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30 days
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60 days
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90 days
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• Duration of coverage (30/60/90 days or multiples) *Terms and conditions apply. Please refer to the policy wording for full details.
For more information visit dnataTravel.com, call 800 DNATA (36282) or visit one of our travel experts in-store
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A two-night stay for two at Nikki Beach Resort & Spa, Dubai Serving as an antidote to its popular beach club, rejuvenation is a running theme at this resort with detox options in the spa and on the dining menus. A luxury-yetbohemian resort, it boasts beautiful views over both the cityscape and Arabian Gulf, plus an array of restaurants and a renowned spa. We’ve teamed up to offer one lucky reader a two-night stay for two, complete with breakfast. To find out more and to enter, visit worldtravellerme.com/win (terms & conditions apply).
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INSPIRE ME The places topping our postpandemic travel list, and why you should add them to yours.
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HOTELS & RESORTS Your go-to when deciding where to stay in the Middle East and beyond.
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Suite dreams Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a suite that has a character and style all of its own
THE PRESIDENTIAL SUITE Constance Ephelia, Seychelles
If there were a competition to find the best Indian Ocean sunset-watching-spot, this suite would be a strong contender. At 980m2, the three-bedroom Presidential Suite at Constance Ephelia offers undeniable luxury. From your own gym and steam room, to two private pools overlooking the vast ocean, exclusive rejuvenation is the theme of a stay here. Plus, the resort itself boasts the Seychelles’ largest spa, so you’re certain to leave recharged. 64 worldtravellerme.com
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Inspiration. Expertly crafted. Comprising of two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is centrally located beside the Dubai Water Canal and offers a spectrum of facilities and services for a memorable experience. The hotel offers 1,608 elegant guest rooms and suites, over 10 award-winning restaurants and lounges, Saray Spa featuring traditional hammams and a state-of-the-art health club.
JW MarriottÂŽ MarquisÂŽ Hotel Dubai Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com