INSPIRED BY
ISSUE 137 | SEPTEMBER 2019 | COMPLIMENTARY COPY
Shanghai surprise
In search of the city's soft side
Produced in Dubai Production City
SICILY MENORCA KRAKOW ISTANBUL
Dip into luxury Dubai's JA Lake View Hotel heads up our list of this year's hottest hotel openings
@jaenchantedislandresort @jaenchantedislandresort JAresorts.com JAresorts.com enchantedislandresort enchantedislandresort
Your most exclusive romantic RESORT IN THE INDIAN OCEAN Perched in the middle of the Saint-Anne Marine Park, resplendent in its elevated cocoon of natural green, JA Enchanted Island Resort is perfect for intimate and memorable vacations. Featuring 10 exquisite villas, the ultra-luxurious resort invites you to feast on authentic Creole cuisine, unwind at the hilltop spa, or lounge in your own private pool as you take in the wonders of nature. The day is yours to seize.
For bookings or more information, visit JAresorts.com or email reservations.eir@jaresorts.com
Welcome note
If you’ve just got back from a lovely long holiday and are feeling blue, fear not, as we’ve got plenty of ways to get you out of a post-summer slump. September is a great time to pause and reflect on all the incredible places you’ve been so far this year, as well as those you’d like to tick off your list during the final four months of 2019. If you like to be among the first to check out a new spot, our round-up of the world’s hottest new hotels (page 24) is guaranteed to pique your interest. We’ve devoted 10 pages to giving you a heads up on the buzziest new openings on the planet, including Dubai’s new JA Lake View Hotel, where we shot this month’s cover (turn to page 36 to see the full photoshoot). For those seeking a trip packed with art and culture, we’ve rounded-up some compelling trip options, from checking out Het HEM, the hot new art institute on the fringes of Amsterdam, to following a contemporary art trail through the Tuscan hills, and reacquainting yourself with the mind-nourishing sites of Istanbul – you're sure to find the perfect break for you.
Managing Director Victoria Thatcher Chief Creative Officer John Thatcher General Manager David Wade Managing Editor Faye Bartle faye@hotmedia.me Content Writers Habiba Azab Sophia Dyer
Happy travels, Faye Bartle
Win!
ISSUE 137 | SEPTEMBER 2019 | COMPLIMENTARY COPY
Shanghai surprise
In search of the city's soft side
SICILY MENORCA KRAKOW ISTANBUL
Senior Advertising Manager Mia Cachero mia@hotmedia.me
Photography credits: Getty Images and Phocal Media Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media is strictly prohibited. HOT Media does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller. Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494
Produced in Dubai Production City
Production Manager Muthu Kumar INSPIRED BY
A sublime stay at Sheraton Maldives Full Moon Resort & Spa, p83
INSPIRED BY
September 2019 // Issue 137 // World's 30 best new hotels / Sicily / Kraków / Menorca
Senior Designer Hiral Kapadia
1
There's a hot new art institute on the fringes of Amsterdam to discover. Check out what's on at Het HEM on p18
2
The Balearic island of Menorca has been a UNESCO Biosphere reserve for 25 years, p46
3
Orson Welles, D.H. Lawrence and Truman Capote are just a few of the creative forces who've been inspired by the beautiful Sicilian town of Taormina, p58
4
Editorial Assistant Ronak Sagar Art Director Kerri Bennett
FIVE THINGS WE LEARNED THIS ISSUE:
You'll find Kraków's oldest hotel, the Pod Róza, tucked away just off Market Square – and it's surprisingly budgetfriendly, p68
5
You don't need to invest in an expensive camera to achieve great travel photos – a few choice lenses for your smartphone can go a long way, p20
Dip into luxury Dubai's JA Lake View Hotel heads up our list of this year's hottest hotel openings
COVER IMAGE JA Lake View Hotel
Find us at… ONLINE worldtravellermagazine.com FACEBOOK @WorldTravellerME INSTAGRAM @worldtravellerme TWITTER @WTravellerME
worldtravellermagazine.com 3
JOURNEY INTO THE SPIRIT OF ARABIA. Relax and unwind as you breathe in the mystical charm of the Rub’ Al Khali. Discover unparalleled desert luxury and cultural passion just 90 minutes from Abu Dhabi. Trek the footsteps of the Bedouin and create a thousand timeless moments in a luxury desert oasis. To book your stay, call +971 (0) 2 895 8700 or email crome@anantara.com
LIFE IS A JOURNEY. Visit anantara.com
CAMBODIA • CHINA • INDONESIA • MALDIVES • MOZAMBIQUE • OMAN • PORTUGAL • QATAR • SRI LANKA • THAILAND • UNITED ARAB EMIRATES • VIETNAM • ZAMBIA
Contents September 2019 Alex Lake ZĂźrich
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GLOBETROTTER
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This month's go-to places take us from the natural beauty of Vietnam to the storied streets of Glasgow.
A sleek new lakeside opening from the oh-so stylish Campbell Grey stable heads up this month's brand new openings.
Visual artist and photographer Debbie Fortes shares her top tips to ensure you capture picture-perfect holiday memories.
Head online for exclusive content and, better still, the chance to win a stay at Sheraton Maldives Full Moon Resort & Spa.
Check into the totally tropical Ocean View Pool Villa at Mandarin Oriental, Sanya for serene views of the South China Sea.
TRENDING DESTINATIONS
GLOBETROTTER
THE KNOWLEDGE
DIGITAL DOWNLOAD
SUITE DREAMS
worldtravellermagazine.com 5
CONTENTS
features
24
46
52
We've scoured the world for this year's best new openings to add to your must-stay list.
Liz Edwards has remained resolutely underwhelmed by the Balearic Islands. Will Menorca be different?
Known for being big, brash, and bustling, is there a softer side to Shanghai? Ellen Himelfarb finds out.
BEST NEW HOTELS OF 2019
LOVE ISLAND
SHANGHAI SURPRISE
58
ON LOCATION
Active volcanoes and sherbet for breakfast? Faye Bartle discovers many surprises under the Sicilian sun.
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THE YEAR'S BEST NEW HOTELS
weekends 66
CULTURE TRIP
Istanbul, the city that straddles two continents, is ripe with cultural charms.
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Olivia Cuthbert finds a historic city with a modern outlook.
Feel in need of a break? We have a few more reasons to book a weekend escape.
It's time we sent you packing. Choose your next adventure from our exclusive offers.
A LONG WEEKEND IN KRAKOW
STAYCATIONS
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off at Saray Spa.
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TRENDING DESTINATIONS
Emily Williams, dnata Travel’s resident globetrotter, reveals the best places to hop on a plane to this month
Zanzibar
This tropical island paradise is accessible year-round, although the cooler and drier months (from June to October) see guaranteed sunshine reflecting off azure waters and pristine white sands. Stay on one of the incredible beaches and spend a day or two in Stone Town, the old part of the city that's a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Discover the local culture, explore the winding streets and enjoy fresh seafood in abundance at the night market. Highlights 1 Set sail for a meal at The Rock, which enjoys a novel setting atop an oversized rock in the Indian Ocean. It's 50-minute drive from Stone Town. 2 Head to Jozani Forest, where you'll find Zanzibar’s rare Red Colobus monkeys. 3 Home to more than 120 tribes, Tanzania’s people bring the local history to life. Embark on a guided cultural tour to meet them in their home villages and hear their fascinating tales.
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TRENDING DESTINATIONS
Glasgow
The number of people travelling to the Scottish Highlands is on the rise, and the vibrant city of Glasgow is the ideal gateway to your adventure in the country. Known for its friendly locals, epic music venues, Victorian architecture, and some of the best shopping in the UK, the city never skips a beat. Uncover the eclectic food and nightlife scene by heading to the West End at Ashton Lane, a pretty cobbled street lined with restaurants and twinkling lights. Highlights 1 The city centre is adorned with vibrant urban artworks – learn about the inspiration behind them on a Street Art Tour led by knowledgeable locals. 2 Make the 30-minute drive to the bonnie banks of Loch Lomond – a beautiful place to spend a day. 3 Visit the SEC Armadillo, a Glasgow landmark that hosts a fab line-up of concerts and events, including The Proclaimers performing on 14 September.
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Moscow
A hotspot for travellers from the Middle East, Russia is proving to be a popular holiday destination this year – not least for its cooler temperatures. The capital, Moscow, offers a compelling mix of excellent food, exciting shopping, beautiful streets, and eye-catching buildings alongside an impressive art and theatre scene. No visit would be complete, however, without a trip to the iconic Red Square, where much of the country’s history unfolded. Highlights 1 Catch the world’s first fully immersive virtual-reality-enhanced exhibition 'Goncharova and Malevich: In Three Dimensions', running until 20 December at Tretyakov Gallery. 2 Journey south to Tsaritsyno, a vast palace complex once home to Catherine the Great. 3 Take a stroll along Arbat, an elegant promenade lined with cafés, musical performers and stalls brimming with keepsakes.
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TRENDING DESTINATIONS
Hoi An
Removed from the hustle and bustle that dominates Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh, the well-preserved 15-19th century trading port city of Hoi An, located on Vietnam’s central coast, is known for its unique charm and delicious local cuisine. Explore the Ancient Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and tour the streets lined with cafés, shops, historic landmarks and colourful yellow-painted buildings. Highlights 1 Taste a famous local dish, such as banh mi – the Vietnamese take on the humble sandwich, which comes piled high with meat and vegetables. 2 Hire a bicycle and set off for an early morning ride around Cam Kim, a lush island that's a short ferry-hop away. 3 Duck into one of the many tailors that line the streets and get a made-to-measure outfit whipped up in super quick time.
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DESTINATION UNLOCKED Enjoy 25% off everything this summer! This summer, Marriott Bonvoy members get 25 percent off everything! Unlock a world of summer adventure and embrace the best that Le Meridien Al Aqah Beach Resort has to offer with 25% off the sea view rooms, water sport activities, “Al Aqah Challenge� ropes course, Spa Al Aqah, food and beverage. Book your summer getaway for unlimited family fun! Members enjoy extra benefits when you book online at Marriott.com Non Marriott Bonvoy member receives 15% percent off This offer valid until 30th September 2019
Terms & conditions apply
WWW.MARRIOTT.COM
Globetrotter SEPTEMBER
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Be informed, be inspired, be there
CARIBBEAN CRUSH Sea views and pastel hues set the tone at Cobblers Cove, a powder pink allsuite hotel which has just thrown off the wraps following an incredible five-year makeover. Situated on the West Coast of Barbados, each of the 40 suites at the family-owned abode have been reinvigorated in collaboration with leading designer Soane Britain, making for an oh-so Instagrammable resort.
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GLOBETROTTER The view of Rome from Villa Borghese
ON OUR RADAR
Trendy buys and sleeps Take your next trip with a new, stylish companion courtesy of a Rimowa Essential. The brand's new line-up of strong yet lightweight polycarbonate cases are cast in monochrome and come in three sizes, from cabin to check in.
WHEN IN ROME British-Sardinian author Sara Alexander shares her tips on how to do as the Romans do when visiting Italy's vibrant capital If we've seen Rome's biggest tourist draws, where to next? Head to the trees in the Villa Borghese gardens as an antidote to the tourist crowds. Where should we go for an authentic taste of Italy? Check out the nooks around where Romans work and live. Get to Testaccio market a little ahead of the work crowd’s lunch hour and try a little dish from several stalls – I'd recommend alla giudia, essentially a deep fried artichoke. Head to Tonnarello in Trastevere for homemade Roman pasta, and for seasonal dishes – it's a good idea to let the staff order for you. Are there any faux pas one should avoid when ordering? Don’t insult anyone by asking for cream in your carbonara sauce; true carbonara beats in the Roman soul! 14 worldtravellermagazine.com
What should we do for some evening entertainment? For outdoor theatre and concerts, head to Sivano Toti Globe Theatre in the Villa Borghese gardens. The area of Trastevere is busy with people yearning for a vibrant boho-feel of Rome, so if you need nightlife there’s plenty there. Favourite Rome-inspired holiday read? I loved Anthony Capella’s The Food of Love, a Cyrano de Bergarc inspired plot involving all the food and romance you could wish for. Any literary inspired sights we should check out? The KeatsShelley house is preserved beautifully and is a wonderful way to escape the crowds into another Rome. Sara's new novel set in Rome, The Last Concerto, is published on 22 August, harpercollins.com
Fit for a king and queen, the Royal Suite at Grand Hills Resort, Lebanon — the world's largest hotel suite — is spread across three pavilions and houses two private pools. The standout suite is packed sky high with regal touches complete with antique furnishings and sculptural points of interest. Drift off with a good book at the Sheraton Grand London Park Lane with its new ZZZ-list library. Devised by a sleep expert and Hatchards booksellers, the Club Lounge contains a curated collection of books that have been scientifically proven to send you into the land of nod. Remember your stay at Velaa Private Island in Maldives by investing in a stunning piece from its
Turtle Anniversary Collection. The designs are inspired by the shells of the sea creatures that flock there to nest and hatch each year. The limited edition pieces are available to purchase at the resort.
GLOBETROTTER
THIS MONTH'S NEW HOTELS Holiday at these hip new abodes
Alex Lake Zürich
TREASURED ISLAND GREECE Parilio Situated on the Greek Isle of Paros, this Cycladic retreat pays homage to the surrounding rocky formations and beaches with relaxing neutral tones throughout. However, the sanctuary-esque swimming pools are the standout feature.
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LAKESIDE VISTAS ZÜRICH Alex Lake Zürich State-of-the-art architecture and modern furnishings give each of the 44 studios and penthouses here a stylish feel quintessential of the Campbell Grey brand. Do as the locals do and take a bike to explore the lakeside and nearby local cycling trails.
CITY LIGHTS THAILAND Avani Sukumvit Bangkok Marrying bustling city vibes with a good night's sleep, this funky hotel is just the ticket for a veritably cosmopolitan getaway. With a shopping mall beneath it, be sure to bring an empty suitcase.
WORLD TRAVELLER X CAESARS BLUEWATERS DUBAI
MAKE THE EMPIRE YOUR PLAYGROUND Stay like a Caesar, with a holiday fit for an emperor at Caesars Bluewaters Dubai From its Las Vegas beginnings to its equally decadent landing in Dubai, Caesars Bluewaters Dubai brings all the glamour and excess of the Roman Empire to a 21st century reception in its resorts. Vacationers can opt for indulging in unparalleled luxury offerings at Caesars Palace Bluewaters Dubai or signing up for the ultimate family-affair at Caesars Resort Bluewaters Dubai. LEGENDARY LUXURY AT CAESARS PALACE Discerning travellers and romantic getaway seekers should check into an ocean view room at Caesars Palace where sleek contemporary meets Romanesque embellishments and modern fittings. Spend the day soaking up the sun by the stunning pools at Cove Beach while lively beats promise an afternoon of fun. Next, dine at multi-Michelin-starred chef, Gordon Ramsay’s Hell’s Kitchen for an immersive culinary experience. After dark, party at Havana Social Club where distilled sugarcane drinks and Latin beats keep the party going all night long. A stay at Caesars Palace wouldn’t be complete without some royal pampering at Qua Spa, where Japanese technologies
and luxurious treatments sooth your mind and body. FAMILY FUN AT CAESARS RESORT Rome wasn’t built in a day, so take a break from the daily grind with the kids in tow and head to Caesars Resort. The Empire Club keeps little ones busy with daytime games and aqua adventures. Teens will be equally pleased as ROAM proves the ultimate teen hangout with various gaming zones and virtual reality. Meanwhile, parents will enjoy relaxing on the private beach before sitting down to an alfresco affair at Cleo’s Table with a menu bursting with Mediterranean flavours. If modern Japanese is more your scene, dine at rooftop restaurant Paru, taking in the panoramic views. Don't miss a show at The Rotunda, this new entertainment venue hosts a line-up of Vegas style shows. Until September 30th, save 20% on your stay, with breakfast. Families can enjoy 50% off on the second room booked and tickets to a park at Dubai Parks & Resorts. Plus, all guests get complimentary access to Laguna Waterpark. Book now at caesars.com/dubai worldtravellermagazine.com 17
GLOBETROTTER © Quentley Barbara, Hesus, 2019. Photo by Cassander Eeftinck Schattenkerk
© Michel Blossier for Panzano Arte
AMSTERDAM VS TUSCANY We shine a light on two artsy destinations competing for your attention this month EXHIBITION Opening on 20 September, the second chapter at the Het HEM – the hot new art institute on the fringes of the city – will see composer Nicolas Jaar create a piece of experimental music and accompanying artwork inspired by the venue's history.
DON'T
WHY WE
EXHIBITION View contemporary art in the rolling Tuscan hills at the Panzano Arte contemporary art showcase in Panzano. Running until 18 September, the trail features 30 sculptures by French artist Nathalie Decoster. The large bronze works explore concepts of the human condition.
WHY WE
DON'T
MISS
LOVE IT
LOVE IT
MISS
Conversations by the fire in the Living Room
Each exhibition is totally unique and immersive
Ideal for teaming a love of art and the great outdoors
Enjoying a meal at Antica Macelleria Cecchini
THE VENUE A former ammunition factory, Het HEM utilises its 10,000 square metre space to host visual art exhibitions named 'chapters'. The creative venue showcases modern concept art, the first chapter of which saw the exhibition, 'Can't be greedy...You gotta take some, and leave some' explore the concept of culture with a live boxing gala.
THE VENUE Nestled between Florence and Sienna, the trail begins in the heart of the charming village of Panzano, and runs through the surrounding rural landscape before leading into four vineyards. Besides the impressive art structures, the rolling Chianti hills are a beautiful sight to behold in their own right.
WHILE YOU'RE THERE The Golden Age saw many acclaimed Dutch artists residing in Amsterdam. Today, the likes of Rembrandt and Van Gogh's work lives on, attracting art lovers from all over the world. The Rijksmuseum holds the country's largest collection of art and artefacts, while the Van Gogh Museum is purely dedicated to the artist's post-impressionist paintings.
WHILE YOU'RE THERE Along with a slew of traditional shops and eateries, the main square in Panzano, Piazza Bucciarell, is host to the Aprilante market on the first Sunday of every month. It's where over 100 local artisans flock to sell their goods. While exploring the quaint mediaeval charm of the village, stop off at Jan Praet Art Gallery to view some local art.
STAY A 10-minute drive from the Het HEM, in the town of Zaandam, is the quirky Inntel Hotel, where the fun higgledy-piggledy facade of the building sets its upbeat feel. For something a little more central, the Art'otel Amsterdam blends great rooms and a trendy art gallery.
STAY Amid the stunning Chianti landscapes, 16th-century Villa Le Barone is a charming boutique hotel with a heated saltwater pool. If you're staying in nearby Florence, bed down at Porcellino Gallery Art Boutique; each of the decadent rooms are kitted out with artworks and luxury finishings.
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KNOW-HOW
The Knowledge HOW TO...
Take frame-worthy travel photographs Dubai-based visual artist and photographer Debbie Fortes (@debbiefortes) shares her tips on capturing picture-perfect shots of your travels Mleiha desert in Sharjah Photo: Debbie Fortes
CHOOSE THE RIGHT EQUIPMENT If you’re a complete beginner, instead of lugging about a large and complicated camera, keep it simple by purchasing some lenses for your smartphone. “I recommend the BlackEye Lens Pro Kit G4 as its fisheye, wide-angle and telephoto lens options offer a lot of choice and therefore shots,” says Debbie. If you’re in the market for a camera perfect for travel but are fairly new to photography, look for something lightweight and easy to use, such as the Canon Powershot SX740. It has a long lens zoom that's perfect for capturing shots from a distance, if you can't get close.
LOCATE THE HOTSPOTS Prep your shots by listing the places you’re going to visit and would like to capture in advance. “I use Google Maps to plot the locations I will be photographing and, from there, I begin to plan what kind of shots I would like to achieve,” says Debbie. By doing some research beforehand you can get an understanding of the photography clichés that pop up often in each spot and instead look for ways to put your own spin on the shot.
FIND A LOCAL GUIDE A good way to find unusual destinations and non-touristy areas to photograph is by linking up with like-minded people. “I do this by following the Instagram accounts of photographers who are based in the place I’m visiting. Quite often, people are very friendly and if you tell them you’re visiting they will take you to the ‘hidden gems’ of their city,” says Debbie. 20 worldtravellermagazine.com
GET THERE BEFORE THE REST “A simple tip that can make the world of difference to your photographs is waking up early,” says Debbie. Especially when visiting popular tourist attractions, getting there before the crowds descend means you're less likely to have people walking in front of your camera. Plus, you'll have more time to take pictures from different angles. “What's more, the lighting first thing in the morning is soft, meaning it’s easier to get a perfectly lit shot without shadows casting over your focus.”
SET UP THE SHOT “Turning on the grid (you can do this on phone and digital cameras), will help guide you when composing images by showing you how the photograph is divided up between, buildings and the sky, for example,” says Debbie. “It will also help you to make sure your images are straight when taking photos of architecture
or structures,” she adds. You can use your creative instincts to think outside the box. When it comes to composing shots, for example, try shooting a famous landmark through the trees for a different perspective.
ADD SOME HUMAN INTEREST As the saying goes, a picture speaks a thousand words, so make it interesting. You can add a new level of storytelling into your travel photographs by including people in your shots. “If you’re out and about during the day and spot someone doing something you think would make a great photo, then don’t be afraid to ask. Most of the time people are quite happy to pose for you – just be sure to ask before you click,” says Debbie. When you return from your trip, the human element of your photos will provide an engaging talking point for family and friends who will be intrigued to know more. debbiefortes.com
Tropical bliss Thai-inspired escapism with a sprinkle of Asian flavour is guaranteed at this beachfront getaway Why take a seven-hour flight to Thailand when you’ve got a Thai paradise right on your doorstep? Scattered across the east crescent of Palm Jumeirah, Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort exudes a truly unique blend of charm and comfort. Boasting the UAE’s only over water villas, the luxury hotel draws inspiration from its Thai heritage that melds effortlessly with its Arabian backdrop. Friendly Thai hospitality starts the minute you arrive as a lady in traditional clothing welcomes you with a warm 'sawasdee ka' ("hello" in Thai), and a delicious tom yum drink.
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With endless vistas, luxury prevails at this tropical retreat. Take your pick from Maldivian-style Over Water Villas floating over the sea with glass panels that offer a sneak peek into the wonders of the sea; Beach Pool Villas where you can swim a lap in your private infinity pool and enjoy direct views of the sea, or Lagoon Access Rooms with steps straight into the Palm’s inner lagoon. Thrill seekers are in for a treat as there's a plethora of water activities to choose from. Whether it's waterskiing, kayaking or wakeboarding, plunge into an exhilarating
WORLD TRAVELLER X ANANTARA THE PALM DUBAI RESORT
Enjoy a secluded romantic dinner courtesy of Dining by Design
Inside a Garden Pool Villa
afternoon on the Gulf’s crystalline waters. Those who prefer calmer currents can enjoy a scenic trip around Palm Jumeirah onboard the city’s first Thai long tail boat. Revel in the beauty of natural lush fronds and mesmerising sea life while you admire the city’s skyline. After a long day out and about, indulge in a pampering spa retreat package that will spoil you rotten. Book now and choose between classic Swedish techniques, exotic Arabian treatments, energising Thai pressure point and stretching, or the Eastern and Western blend of signature massages that’s specifically tailored to your needs. Keep those hunger pangs at bay and start your day fresh with a scrumptious spread of worldwide delicacies at Crescendo's international buffet or stop by Revo Café for morning caffeine hits and refreshing fruit smoothies. The Beach House offers Mediterranean fare with impressive sunset views while Aussie steakhouse Bushman’s
challenges adventurous epicureans with its daring take on Australian cuisine – kangaroo sirloin is among the menu highlights. Alternatively, world-class Asian dining can be found in the Mekong Restaurant and with their interactive cooking class, Spice Spoons, you can learn all the tricks you need to cook world-famous Thai dishes bursting with exotic flavours. For a special treat, Dining by Design lures romantics with its delectable set menu and dazzling atmosphere. Let candles light your way to your private table on the sand and enjoy a bespoke dining experience by selecting from connoisseur menus or collaborating with a personal chef to recreate all your favourites. Whichever way you choose to spend your time, you'll leave with wonderful memories to take back home. To find out more, call +971 4 567 8888 or visit anantara.com worldtravellermagazine.com 23
Lelewatu Resort Sumba
The WORLD’S hottest NEW HOTELS This year has seen a bumper crop of brilliant new hotels. From tropical island retreats to city hotspots, here are 30 of the buzziest new openings from all corners of the globe
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HOT SUITE NEW SPOTS HOTELS 2019
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The Middle East & Africa JA LAKE VIEW HOTEL, UAE Opening on 22 September, JA Lake View Hotel completes the trio of properties that comprise the sprawling JA The Resort in Jebel Ali. There are 348 rooms and suites, each with a sunny glass balcony, along with three pools and four culinary concepts, including an Indian restaurant helmed by Michelin-starred chef Vikas Khanna. The best part? You can use all the facilities of the wider resort, which means you’ll have 25 restaurants and bars, as well as a mind-boggling menu of activities to choose from. Turn to page 36 for more.
LEKKERWATER BEACH LODGE, SOUTH AFRICA On fragrant fynbos-covered cliffs above the Indian Ocean, this ecoconscious lodge in the De Hoop Nature Reserve, 240km east of Cape Town, offers solitude in spades. There are seven rooms decorated in earthy tones and marine blues, with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking a long stretch of deserted beach. You can go hiking and caving, watch dolphins frolic and spot Cape vultures and caracals. But the highlight is shore-based whalewatching; from July to November, you’ll see hundreds of Southern Right whales and their calves.
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LEPOGO LODGES, SOUTH AFRICA High on a clifftop overlooking the 48,000-hectare Lapalala Wilderness Reserve, Noka Camp is the first of two new properties at Lepogo Lodges. All five villas have glass fronts, heated infinity pools and outdoor ‘sky beds’ with glass floors, providing sensational views of the ravine. The décor, meanwhile, is sleek and subtle, with light wood and sunken baths. With luck, you'll likely spot the Big Five during game drives, water safaris and luxury sleep-outs, while yoga and spa treatments round off your stay.
SINGITA KWITONDA LODGE, RWANDA Fans of Singita’s luxury safari lodges can now add gorilla-trekking to their East African itinerary, with the opening of its latest lodge in the spectacular Volcanoes National Park. Treading lightly on 72 hectares of wetlands and meadows, Kwitonda’s eight suites and one villa have fireplaces and heated plunge pools and incorporate local volcanic rock, river stone and handmade tiles. Besides gorillas, you can also visit Nyungwe National Park which is home to a dozen primate species, including chimpanzees and colobus monkeys.
HOT NEW HOTELS
WILDERNESS SAFARIS JAO CAMP, BOTSWANA After undergoing a total transformation, Wilderness Safaris’ new camp in the Okavango Delta mixes style and sustainability to stellar effect. Run entirely on solar power, the camp has five tented suites with private plunge pools, outdoor showers and evaporative cooling systems instead of AC, while two villas also come with a private guide, chef and butler. Morning and evening game drives provide fantastic opportunities to spot the Big Five, ideally interspersed with glassbottomed canoe trips and pampering spa treatments. WALDORF ASTORIA, DIFC, UAE Although a few big-name hotel brands now have a home within Dubai’s International Financial Centre, none are as grand as Waldorf Astoria’s — a soaring, lavishly decorated homage to city titans Rome and New York of the '60s, a golden age of travel when the term jet-set was born. Aimed very much at the jetsetters of today, beyond the obligatory steakhouse for dealmakers, there’s more than enough to gratify leisure guests too, including a sky-high, private-access spa and made-for-Instagram rooftop lounge.
This image: Wilderness Safaris Jao Camp Below: Mandarin Oriental Jumeira, Dubai
MANDARIN ORIENTAL JUMEIRA, DUBAI, UAE This beachfront resort marked the welcome arrival of Mandarin Oriental in the region. The 256 rooms, most with private balconies and terraces, are decorated in muted tones and accents of turquoise or orange. Relax by the pool — there are six to choose from — and stroll to the low-lit spa, which boasts a hammam, indoor vitality pools, dry saunas and steam rooms. In the evening, choose from a halfdozen places to eat and drink, including a warayaki-style (strawsmoked) Japanese steakhouse.
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HOT NEW HOTELS InterContinental Maldives Maamunagau Resort
Indian Ocean ANANTARA MAURITIUS RESORT, MAURITIUS Anantara makes its Mauritius debut next month near Blue Bay, a largely undeveloped spot with a vibrant coral reef and some of the island’s best snorkelling and diving. Design-wise, the 164-room resort is set among tropical gardens and makes use of natural elements such as volcanic stone and driftwood, while a 30-metre chlorinefree swimming pool wraps around the low-rise property. Multiple restaurants will make use of the incredible local bounty, while the signature spa will include indigenous therapies. BAGLIONI RESORT MALDIVES At first glance, this private island resort in the Dhaalu Atoll looks like your traditional Maldivian paradise: turquoise waters, powdery sands, thatched villas. But Baglioni’s subtle Italian style — Frette linens, sunset aperitivi, topnotch Italian cuisine — adds a touch of cosmopolitan flair. There are 96 villas, some over water, others lining the 28 worldtravellermagazine.com
beach or tucked among swaying palm trees, with secluded decks and outdoor showers. Once you’ve settled in, hit the dive centre or try a couples' massage in the open-air spa. RAFFLES MALDIVES MERADHOO, MALDIVES In the remote Gaafu Alifu Atoll, close to the equator, Raffles has opened its first resort in the Maldives — and it was worth the wait. The enormous, thatched-roof villas — 21 perched on the sand and 16 over water — all come with muslin-draped four-poster beds, deep soaking tubs, private pools and Raffles’ legendary butler service. Enjoy lazy days snorkelling alongside the resident marine biologist, or being pampered in the overwater spa. Evenings, meanwhile, are devoted to sunset dhoni cruises and candle-lit dinners. LUX* NORTH MALÉ ATOLL, MALDIVES A short speedboat-ride from Malé, this mould-breaking resort favours two-storey, white-washed duplexes
INTERCONTINENTAL MALDIVES MAAMUNAGAU RESORT This newcomer is set within the Maldives’ largest natural lagoon in the Raa Atoll, a unique marine sanctuary teeming with manta rays. When you’re not snorkelling alongside these gentle giants, there’s an overwater spa with a resident Chinese medicine practitioner to complement the menu of facials and massages, and six restaurants ranging from tapas to teppanyaki. Meanwhile, the 81 beach, lagoon or overwater villas all come with ocean views, terraces, pools and complimentary daily perks including breakfast, afternoon tea and obligatory sundowners.
over thatched-roof villas. There are 67 in total, some over water and all with private pool, roof terrace and bathroom as big as the bedroom. The cool, South Beach-vibe continues in the restaurants and lounges — think Peruvian-Japanese cuisine, resident DJ and underwater aquarium. Daily routines revolve around snorkelling with turtles, blissful treatments in the overwater spa, a spot of yoga or tai chi, and toes-in-thesand dinners.
NEW HOTELS Nukutepipi
Australia & the South Pacific INTERCONTINENTAL HAYMAN ISLAND RESORT, AUSTRALIA Two years after Cyclone Debbie’s destruction, and following a multimillion-dollar refurbishment, this private island resort is once again welcoming guests to the Whitsundays. There are 166 rooms, suites and villas spread across three distinct wings, including an all-new beach house with private pool, three new restaurants and an 11-room spa. Intersperse your pool days with Lelewatu Resort Sumba, Indonesia trips to the Great Barrier Reef.
NUKUTEPIPI, FRENCH POLYNESIA Go totally off-grid at this exclusiveuse retreat in the remote Tuamotu archipelago, 750km southeast of Tahiti. With the sound of lapping waves as your soundtrack, the tiny island shines for its staggering beauty and total seclusion. There are 16 barefootchic villas and bungalows, while the turquoise-hued lagoon is an invitation for adventure. Take your pick of activities on land and in water, with staff on hand to cater to your every whim. worldtravellermagazine.com 29
The Americas Puro Vik
PURO VIK, CHILE Two hours south of the capital Santiago, Chile’s newest luxury retreat features 19 glass-walled bungalows overlooking the vinecovered Millahue Valley. Each villa is outfitted in distinctive style, with themes ranging from Japanese to Pop Art, while al fresco bathtubs offer views of the valley and Andes Mountains beyond. You may never feel the urge to leave — though the adjoining sister property features two Chilean restaurants, an infinity pool, luxurious spa and activities like yoga, hiking and horseback riding.
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EQUINOX, USA In a 92-storey skyscraper in New York’s newly constructed Hudson Yards district, this buzzed-about hotel is the first from America’s most exclusive fitness club (where the likes of Kim and Kanye work out). Join a SoulCycle class in the 5,600-square-metre gym, then recover in a cryotherapy chamber in the spa, or opt for a restorative vitamin IV-drip. The 212 rooms and suites, meanwhile, are designed to encourage sleep, with precise levels of quiet, darkness and temperature, and a minibar packed with healthy snacks and ample supplements.
EDEN ROCK, CARIBBEAN Perched atop a rocky promontory surrounded by sandy beaches, Eden Rock has been an A-list favourite since the 1950s. Following a two-year, Hurricane Irma-induced renovation, the St Barths icon will reopen on November 20. All rooms have been redesigned in elegant, breezy style — plump for the new Pippa suite with private pool — while a new spa and beach bar add to the hotel’s already considerable charms. Regulars, meanwhile, can relax knowing JeanGeorges Vongerichten still presides over the food.
HOT NEW HOTELS
NOBU HOTEL LOS CABOS, MEXICO On an idyllic stretch of the Baja Peninsula, chef Nobu Matsuhisa and actor Robert De Niro’s latest hotspot is perhaps their finest yet. The vibe is contemporary Japanese minimalism — think Zen-like rooms with traditional teak tubs and shoji sliding doors — while pops of colour and those Pacific Ocean panoramas cement the sense of place. Tee off at the neighbouring Tiger Woodsdesigned course, unwind in the spa stocked with Natura Bissé products, and dine on the ever-excellent miso-glazed black cod at the signature restaurant.
ISLAS SECAS, PANAMA On the search for for total seclusion? You’ll be hard-pressed to top this ecoresort in Panama’s Gulf of Chiriqui. Part of a 14-isle archipelago owned by a billionaire conservationist, there are just nine casitas secreted among the lush vegetation, with private pools and thatched-roof cabanas offering unbeatable ocean views. Guests get full run of the islands, 13 of which are uninhabited, so you can fill your days kayaking, snorkelling and diving, whalewatching, bird-spotting and fishing, or just hanging out on one of those blissfully deserted beaches.
Kachi Lodge
ROSEWOOD MIRAMAR BEACH, USA Spread across 6.5-hectares of pristine beachfront near beautiful Santa Barbara, this resort mixes relaxed Cali charm with discrete Rosewood luxury. All 161 rooms have outdoor terraces, while some are perched directly on the sand — a real rarity in southern California. Start your day with yoga on the beach, laze by the cabana-lined pools (one for families, another for adults) and stock up on goodies from Gwyneth Paltrow’s in-resort Goop boutique. The Italianinfluenced Caruso’s, meanwhile, is the pick of the resort’s stellar line up of seven restaurants. KACHI LODGE, BOLIVIA Until recently, exploring Bolivia’s Salar de Uyuni meant staying in modest digs in a nearby town. That’s all changed with the advent of this collection of nine glamping domes pitched right on the world’s largest salt flat. Kitted out with plush beds and colourful Bolivian artwork, the pods have clear panels for star-gazing and wood-burning stoves (you are, after all, at altitude). Best of all, there’s inventive cuisine from Gustu, founded in the capital La Paz in 2013 by Noma’s Claus Meyer.
Nobu Hotel Los Cabos
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YOUR GUIDE TO DUBAI’S MUST-HAVE VISITOR EXPERIENCES www.dxbcityexpert.com
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HOT NEW HOTELS
Europe ANDRONIS ARCADIA, GREECE Santorini is famous for its sublime sunsets and there’s no better place to soak up the view than from this all-suite hotel in the island’s north. The 53 sunset-facing suites all have private pools and are decorated in linen, rattan and wood. When you’re ready to mingle, nab a floating day bed by the buzzy infinity pool and its resident DJ, and take your pick of three restaurants. Be sure to book a treatment in the spa, too — it’s the largest in town. HOTEL CHÂTEAU DU GRAND-LUCÉ, FRANCE With just 17 rooms and 80 acres to explore, this fairy-tale chateau in the Loire Valley is as grand as they come. Built in 1760 and surrounded by its original stone wall, the chateau has been exquisitely restored: rooms feature soaring ceilings and parquet oak floors and are awash with gilt
furniture, silk damask walls, canopy beds and clawfoot baths. Enjoy sunny strolls through the classical gardens, inspired by Versailles, picnics in the white oak forest and dreamy days by the pool. BELMOND CADOGAN HOTEL, UK Occupying a handful of Queen Anne-style townhouses in London’s Chelsea, this handsome hotel has been a playground for socialites and bohemians since 1887. Following a top-to-toe makeover, there are now 54 supremely stylish rooms — mostly suites — with hardwood floors, velvet headboards and contemporary art by up-and-coming female artists. When you’re not shopping or museum-hopping, take afternoon tea in the lounge, dine on modern British cuisine in chef Adam Handling’s eponymous restaurant and play tennis in the private gardens. HOTEL DE LA VILLE, ITALY Hotelier Rocco Forte’s latest property sits atop the Spanish Steps, providing stellar views over Rome’s terracotta-
tiled rooftops. The historic 18thcentury palazzo houses 104 rooms and suites with jewel-toned velvets, rich woods and marble bathrooms. Exceptional Italian cuisine is on offer in the central courtyard or chic ground-floor trattoria (but of course you’ll want to head to the rooftop terrace for sundowners first). The spa, meanwhile, has a wealth of treatments infused with Sicilian botanicals, along with a sauna, salt room and hydro pool.
MONKEY ISLAND ESTATE, UK Housed in two 18th-century buildings in the picturesque village of Bray-on-Thames, this former aristocratic fishing retreat is now a contemporary country manor. The 30 Art Deco-styled rooms have marshmallow beds and river views, while the Wedgewood Suite dials up the drama with woodpanelled walls, ornate plasterwork and moody oil paintings. Indulge in the floating spa, a custom-made canal boat moored along the bank, or cruise in the vintage-style launch to Bray’s three-star gastrotemples, the Waterside Inn and The Fat Duck.
Monkey Island Estate
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HOT NEW HOTELS
Asia SIX SENSES BHUTAN, BHUTAN In the little-explored Himalayan kingdom, Six Senses is creating a bucket-list circuit of five intimate lodges in the country’s most beautiful valleys. Lodges have already opened in Paro, close to the clifftop Tiger’s Nest; amid the rice paddies of Punakha; and in the capital Thimphu, with the remaining set to launch later this year in Gangtey and Bumthang. Each one weaves different elements of its surroundings into its design, but you can expect heart-stopping views, cultural excursions and serene wellness experiences.
CAPELLA BANGKOK, THAILAND Bangkok is famous for its nonstop energy, so this new arrival on the east bank of the Chao Phraya River provides a welcome change of pace. Capella’s 101 suites and riverfront villas feel like posh cocoons. The soothing ambiance continues in the spa with traditional Thai therapies, while youngsters can sign up for a ‘Little Monk’ mindfulness session. Another surprise: the signature restaurant is Mediterranean, overseen by Michelin-starred chef Mauro Colagreco.
Six Senses Bhutan
Anantara Desaru Coast Resort
ANANTARA DESARU COAST RESORT, MALAYSIA Desaru Coast is Malaysia’s rising star resort, thanks to its white-sand beaches, family-friendly water park and Ernie Els-designed golf courses. Opening next month, this resort has 123 rooms and villas, some with plunge pools, in calming neutrals and dark wood. The sparkling South China Sea is never far away, whether you're lounging by the infinity pool or feasting on Malaysian and Thai cuisine in the open-air restaurants. Jaded travellers, meanwhile, will love the signature spa and tailored wellness programmes.
LELEWATU RESORT SUMBA, INDONESIA Forget Bali. Sumba, an hour’s flight south-east, is the place to go for incredible white-sand beaches, minus the crowds. On a cliff overlooking the ocean, Lelewatu Resort has 27 thatched-roof villas spread across 10-hectares of lush rainforest, with four-poster beds and beautiful handwoven ikat fabrics. Recline on muslin-draped daybeds by your private pool, and stroll to the spa to be gently pummelled by the expert masseuses. In the evening, sample the catch of the day in the open-air restaurant.
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C R E AT E SPECIAL MOMENTS WITH US.
DUBAI MARRIOTT HARBOUR HOTEL & SUITES KING SALMAN BIN ABDULAZIZ AL SAUD STREET DUBAI MARINA, PO BOX 66662, DUBAI, UAE T. 971.4.319.4000 | DUBAIMARRIOTTHARBOURHOTEL.COM Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites @marriottharbour
Standing tall in the heart of Dubai Marina, featuring incomparable panoramic views of the city, combine the best of all worlds with luxurious accommodation, three contemporary dining destinations and a blissful caravanserai-inspired, Saray Spa.
Step into style JA Lake View Hotel is this year's most anticipated hotel opening in the Middle East — and we just couldn't wait to get inside. Prior to its grand unveiling this month, this sustainability-focused, design-driven, chic retreat was all ours for a day. Fancy a sneak peek? Then come on in... ART DIRECTOR: KERRI BENNETT PHOTOGRAPHER: SABRINA-RYNAS, MMG ARTIST
These pages: Natural light pours through space-age-style skylights to bathe the hotel's lobby in sunshine. An elevated walkway leads you here; a spectacular, stylish atrium bestowed with instantly calming views of the golf course and sea beyond. Dress: Kristina Fidelskaya Belt: Max Mara Bag: Tod’s Suitcase: Rimowa 36 worldtravellermagazine.com
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XXXXXXXXXXXXX These pages and next: The hotel's magnificent One Bedroom Terrace Suite brings the tranquillity of its lush surrounds indoors, with spacious living and dining areas, double vanities, a walk-in shower and a large bathtub begging you to relax in impeccably styled surrounds. It's the outside, though, that fully defines this suite: a jaw-dropping terrace overlooking the verdant fairways of the resort's own golf course.
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Opposite: Dress: Elisabetta Franchi This page: Dress: Max Mara Earrings: tutuskurniati.com
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Top and skirt: Bambah Earrings: Elisabetta Franchi Shoes: By Far Watch: Baume and Mercier 40 worldtravellermagazine.com
In addition to catering to families with a crèche, CoolZone Kids Club, and children's pool, the hotel boasts an adultsonly pool – the perfect place at which to soak up the peaceful surrounds with a cooling, crafted mocktail.
Dress: tutuskurniati.com Swimsuit: tutuskurniati.com Sunglasses: Alaïa
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The plush One Bedroom Terrace Suite, which can accommodate up to four guests, houses myriad amenities to make a stay here extra comfortable. Tempting though it will prove, don't climb into its sumptuous bed until you've had dinner at the hotel's gastronomic gem, Kinara – the all-new Indian restaurant concept from Michelin-starred Vikas Khanna. JA Lake View Hotel forms part of JA The Resort, which is comprised of three unique hotels that combine to offer guests over one million square metres of first-class experiences, including more than 40 thrilling activities for all the family to enjoy and a championed culinary line-up of some 25 outlets and a trio of Michelin-starred chefs. It is Dubai's largest experience resort.
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Dress: Max Mara Earrings: tutuskurniati.com Sandals: Elisabetta Franchi Suitcase: Rimowa Stylist: Jade Chilton Hair and make-up: Melanie, MMG Artist Model: Katrina, MMG Artist
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Extend your journey with World Traveller magazine by heading online to read more inspirational and exclusive travel content and take advantage of upto-the-minute hotel and holiday features
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Postcards Stories from journeys far and wide
MENORCA p46 SHANGHAI p52 SICILY p58
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These pages: The pristine Cala Macarella cove
Love Island Unimpressed by its busier Balearic siblings, Liz Edwards gives Menorca a whirl. It’s beautiful, it’s below-the-radar and it’s a breeze to get to. Could this be the isle to finally win her heart?
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MENORCA
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can already hear the gasps of horror at the confession I have to make, but here goes anyway: I’ve never really ‘got’ the Balearics. Like any good holidaymaker, I’ve tried, but somehow we just haven’t clicked. These islands should have been perfect dates for a committed Hispanophile like me, but Mallorca — beautiful, yes, its capital a charmer — had felt a bit well-trodden. (Or well-pedalled; blame the men, mid-Lycra-crisis, clogging the roads with their bikes.) Ibiza was fun, sure, but the clubs and the yoga all seemed a bit sceney to me. I’d not even made it to Formentera, put off by flight ’n’ ferry faff. It certainly wasn’t that I disliked the Balearics, and rave reviews from friends and colleagues made me reluctant to write off the islands altogether, but what can you do when there’s no chemistry? Well, apparently, you, er, see if you’ll hit it off any better with sibling number three. Would Menorca be The One? I very much hoped so, because I’d signed up the family — husband, son and me — to 10 days’ holiday there. Those rave reviews and relentless enthusiasm had persuaded me to give the Balearics another chance. And I must say, between optimism and actual research, my expectations were dangerously high: it sounded like a more natural, sleepier sort of place than its neighbours, with little nightlife, fewer visitors and beaches as good as you’d expect on an island that’s been a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve for 25 years. There were historic twin cities to explore, Brit-influenced Mahón and Italianate Ciutadella. It was greener than arid Ibiza, and smaller than Mallorca (45 minutes’ drive end to end) so we could move around, doing the island justice, without car time eating into holiday time. Key industries, besides tourism, were shoe- and cheese-production — some of my favourites. So, on paper, it looked pretty good. So how would it fare in the flesh? worldtravellermagazine.com 47
First impressions matter, of course. And Borja, the smiling car-hire guy at the airport, aced it, airily telling us to just leave the keys in the glove compartment on our return, maintaining his smile even after a local woman reversed her car into ours: ‘Sure, have another!’ We drove off happy to believe that ‘delightfully relaxed’ might be the default Menorquin mood. Mahón, the capital and our stop for the first couple of days, did little to undo Borja’s good work. High above the huge natural harbour that made the island quite the catch among Europe’s naval powers (its dance card was marked by the Brits for much of the 18th century) we found a chilled, well-groomed city of green-shuttered Georgian buildings and chunky, fortress-like convents. One is now a museum; another, the Claustre del Carme, a food market downstairs, the island’s music conservatory upstairs. We sat outside in the sun eating La Menorquina ice creams, Brahms’s Hungarian Dance No 5 galloping allegro out of the rehearsal-room window above. Wandering through the pedestrianised centre, we passed grannies gossiping on benches beneath orange trees, and watched a band of folk musicians and dancers entertain the late-afternoon crowds. At Can’Oliver, a 19th-century mansion turned gallery-museum, gorgeous frescoes on ceilings and the double staircase were the backdrop to blessedly succinct displays on the island’s history, including one panel on the Brits’ linguistic legacy. Such pride. A family of suckers for a shoe shop, we were helpless in the face of one store’s floor-to-ceiling, wall-to-wall rainbow of traditional avarca sandals. Mallorca’s native shoe is the Camper trainer; from Ibiza I could recall only sequins and boho tassels. But this was authentic summery heaven — window shopping was not enough. Waltzing on, freshly shod, we found in Plaça Bastió a handful of inviting cafés and bars ranged around a fabulous kids’ playground — the absolute, whydoes-every-town-not-have-this dream combo. The four-year-old scarpered 48 worldtravellermagazine.com
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WE SIGHED, DELIGHTFULLY RELAXED, OVER TAPAS AND GLASSES OF THE LOCAL LEMONADE
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MENORCA
These pages, clockwise from top left: Veranda and terraced garden in a traditionally styled home; stuffed buns on sale at a food market; the 19th century La Mola fortress; kayaks on the beach at Cala Macarella
to make new amigos; we grown-ups sighed, delightfully relaxed, over tapas and glasses of the local lemonade. It was early days, but I was starting to feel a bit swoony about Menorca. Day three: time to get to know each other better and take off some clothes. For the beach, of course. Mahón’s almost as far east as you can go on the island so off we went west, along the road built by the Brits when they moved the capital from Ciutadella at Menorca’s opposite end. And crikey, it was lovely. Beyond verges nodding with poppies and daisies, we saw windmills, hay bales, pines and palms, farms bounded by dry-stone walls with wooden gates so wiggly, they looked hand-drawn. Unlike the other Balearics, Menorca has cows, which means it has cheese — salty, paprika-bathed, moreish. We could only pass so many ‘elaboracio de formatge’ signs before stopping to buy some. We had bread and robiol pastries from a master Mahón baker’s — beach picnic complete. But which beach? Menorca has more than a hundred. I asked the farmer selling us her formatge if she had a favourite. ‘It all depends,’ she said, possibly a little too delightfully relaxed. But in fact, she had sound advice. ‘If there’s a southerly wind, we go to the north coast. If the Tramuntana is blowing from the north, we go south.’ What if there’s no wind? ‘Have you seen how many windmills we have?’ Fingers in the air... south it was to Cala Mitjana, a clear-water cove of pale sand carved into pine-topped limestone cliffs; just one in a succession of pin-up-phenomenal beaches we saw on the island. It was all going so well — even better when we made it to second base. Hotel number two was in Ferreries, a snoozy little hill-cupped town of ochre, pink and white houses with windowboxes, cats and residents ready with a cheery ‘hola’. Inland, it seemed to be bypassed by most visitors, but it was brilliantly handy for exploration — within easy striking distance of Ciutadella (good for its gargoyled cathedral, tiled market and lavish nobles’ mansions), and both the north and south coasts. worldtravellermagazine.com 49
MENORCA
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This page, clockwise from top left: Beefsteak tomatoes at Piazza della Repubblica market; a worker harvesting grapes; alfresco dining at a café in San Carlo Piazza; Piazza San Carlo
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THE HOLIDAY ROMANCE CONTINUED, DAYS ROLLING ON AS GENTLY AS THE WAVES TICKLING THE SHORE
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Climent. Es Moli de Foc came highly recommended and its food was fabulous — the vast pans hanging in the kitchen a clue to its rice prowess. Inside were antique chairs, modern art and colourful fan lights; we sat in the pretty, high-walled courtyard and it should have been perfect. Perhaps the spark that was missing here was a local feel. Rather than the Spanish buzz we’d found elsewhere, here the clientele was resolutely baby-boomer British, including one minor celeb in his ‘don’t look at me’ bright green blazer. It all felt a bit... Mallorca.
It was down to our last lunch to restore faith, rekindle love, relight my fire. On a corner by the main road in Sant Climent, all plastic chairs and wall-mounted TVs, Es Casino was an unlikely cupid. But — how strange the change from Mallorca to Menorca — a houseful of Spanishspeaking Sunday lunchers boded well. So did the golden-anniversary granny serenading her assembled family. We asked the waitress for local specialities; she brought calves’ liver, tongue with capers and rosemary. Tender, flavourful delights the lot of ’em, not half as challenging as they sounded. Even the patatas we ordered for the fussy four-year-old came with a proper brava sauce. We felt content, delightfully relaxed. And there it was. Not that the other Balearics are ugly sisters, but it had been worth that third shot with the glass slipper. This was the true love island. Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com
Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/News Licensing
Cala Macarella was another knockout southerner. On Mallorca, this beach would be swamped. On Ibiza, it’d be a beach club with daybeds. Here, the council banned parking because it was too busy, and you can’t even hire a lounger. It only endeared Menorca to me more. You can bus it, but we walked there along the clifftop path from Cala Galdana — a glorious half hour in itself, even before we got to the tantalising slow-reveal from the 200-plus steps down to the sand. We swam, bought cold drinks from Bar Susy at the back of the beach and lolled by the shore under a pine tree. Bliss. And so the holiday romance continued, days rolling on as gently as the waves tickling the shore. In the north, we discovered the redsand of Cavalleria Beach and, from the lighthouse at its northern tip, watched the sun set over Connemararugged Cap de Cavalleria. A morning’s kayaking round the sheltered bay at Fornells gave us appetite enough for a caldereta, the Menorcan lobster stew that brings the king of Spain to town. I hope he gets the full side-table, finger-bowl and bib treatment we did. Moving east for our last few days, we added to our list of greatest beachy hits: the dunes and shallow bay of Es Grau and the cove at sleepy, write-your-novel Alcaufar. Did my smitten-ness know no bounds? Well yes, it did. Google pictures of Cova d’en Xoroi and you’ll see why I insisted we go — you’ll either get a cluster of thatched-parasol bar tables clinging to a cliff above the peacock- blue sea, or the rose-gold sunset that lights up the bar each evening. And it is a wowy setting, no question, out at the end of quietly resorty Cala en Porter. But as with all the best profile pictures, the reality was a bit different. Those ledges with their billowing white-fabric canopies were for cash-flashing VIPs only. As the sun dipped, everyone else — the world and his selfie-stick — was squeezed onto the rock-cut steps and little corners of the cave-bar. Besides the crowds, the dress code was definitely more smart than casual. None of it terrible, but still, it all felt a bit... Ibiza. Swipe left. Nor was I quite convinced by one meal we had in lazy, low-key Sant
Opposite: The all-white Old white village of Binibeca This page: Cova d'en Xoroi, a bar and nightclub cut into the cliff face
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This page: A woman holding up incense sticks at XXXXXXXXXXXXX the Jade Temple Opposite: Top of the neonlit Oriental Pearl Tower
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SHANGHAI
China’s fast and furious bigcity dynamo also has a slow gear that’ll soothe your soul. Ellen Himelfarb finds its pulse
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SHANGHAI
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n a swish of flowing black changshan robes, the master enters the room, and the impatient taptapping of my foot is stilled as if by some enchantment. Wordlessly, he makes jasmine tea, pours it into tiny ceramic cups and sits, in balletic posture, to unfurl a fabric roll harbouring Lilliputian brass implements: brush, tongs and razorsharp spatula. Beside the tools sit clay bowls of aromatic powder, urns of fine white ash and brass stencils cut in lotusflower shapes — the raw materials of my ‘incense appreciation’ lesson. Mirroring my teacher’s movements, I place a stencil on the ash and pat out the powder on top: another tap-tap, only calmer this time. Using my spatula I tidy the edges: a quieter swish. As I focus on sweeping up the fine, heady dust, the master speaks mellifluously about this ritual — thousands of years old — performed to heal, tell time, smoke away evil or, as today, simply help us mellow out. Then we lift our templates to reveal incense patterns that resemble flourishes on a cappuccino. We light the ends, and watch the embers smoulder, like cartoon TNT in slow-mo. In what seems like 10 minutes of deep concentration and deeper breathing, our hour flies by. Is this what they call... Zen? I was beyond excited for the bigger, taller, faster, everything-now rhythm of Shanghai, the organised chaos of 26 million strivers. For the better part of a week, I’ve shopped the neon megastores of Nanjing Road, drank in lounges 100m higher than London’s Shard. I’ve battled sharp-elbowed tourists on the sacred ‘zigzag bridge’ to photograph the ancient temples of Yu Garden. I’ve even taken part in the latest rite of passage: a fix of nitrogen-infused tea in a throbbing 2,694sq m rotunda — one of the biggest Starbucks in the world. Mission accomplished. But if I carry on this way any longer I’ll need a holiday from my holiday. What’s required for the next few days is some stillness, 54 worldtravellermagazine.com
some tranquillity, some peace and quiet and contemplation, and breathing out. Some serene ancient yin to the city’s hectic modern yang. And Nanshufang, this soft-lit school of ‘scholarly arts’ — tea ceremonies, flower-arranging, calligraphy and more join incense on the curriculum — is the perfect place to start. While outside, in the Xintiandi neighbourhood, shoppers dash around trendy trainer shops tucked into traditional grey-brick shikumen houses, I bend over to inhale the fragrant scent of a Qing-style table in historic Chinese nanmu wood, while a teacher and student pluck their zither-like guqins in the background. ‘The speed of life is taking its toll,’ explains the teacher. ‘People are reacting to the pressure by returning to Confucianism and Buddhism, exchanging material values for culture, slowing down.’ That may be true, but my blood pressure shoots right up again as soon as I leave. Dinner’s in an hour at a restaurant deep in the former French Concession — the southwest quarter of the city cordoned off by French occupiers in the 19th century — but crossing Xintiandi requires the agility of a street dancer. My moves aren’t up to it, so I hop in a taxi, thinking it will be more relaxing. It’s not. Hurtling westward, I slide down in my seat to take in the sheer height of the new towers edging the French colonists’ old haunt, as my driver
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THE LANDSCAPE UNFOLDS LIKE A FILM SET AFTER THE DIRECTOR HAS WRAPPED AND THE CAST HAS LEFT FOR THE DAY
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veers around buzzing swarms of electric scooters and maverick pedestrians with the skill of a video-game champion. This is edge-of-the-seat stuff, until, at the marvellously named Wulumuqi Road, the traffic grinds to a hooting, honking halt. The cabbie taps the long nail of his pinkie against the wheel. ‘Ni ho hala mia wan wo ga lai!’ he says. Or something of the sort. Surely he’s not talking to me, I think, until he repeats himself with the assurance of an American tourist expecting everyone to speak his language. My stress levels ratchet up further. Rather than mangle words plucked from my Chinese phrasebook, I pay the fare on the meter and flee, nearly colliding with a bicycle cart carrying bananas, as he continues to speak in my direction. At first, the pavements teem as much as the tarmac. In narrow shops wide open to the street, fishmongers sink their nets deep into tanks to pull out wriggling ‘mitten crabs’ with claws encircled by fuzz, like tiny fur muffs, as I dodge queues of clocked-off workers buying buns from bamboo steamers. This is not the tranquil French Concession I’m craving right now. But as I turn into a side street, suddenly the scene fades — until the only sound is the swaying branches of the mature plane trees forming a canopy overhead. Clay-roofed villas sit back from sepiatoned walls, the last light of the day dappling the stucco. It’s no wonder the French clung on to this little enclave of quiet for nearly a century. The landscape unfolds like a film set after the director has wrapped and the cast has left for the day. Here and there a window glows with a scene: a smocked barber wielding electric shears, or a candlelit bar stocked with French imports. A rusty bicycle leans like a prop against a dress shop. Passing an Art Deco manor retrofitted with wires and satellite dishes, I feel a drop of water. In an upstairs window, an old lady pins a pair of large white pants to a wire rack jutting out over the street. She adds a bright pink shirt, then unfurls a patterned bedsheet
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These pages, clockwise from top left: Food cooks in traditional bamboo steamers; tai chi at sunrise; neon advertisements illuminate the night sky; colourful pavilions at Yu Garden; statuettes of terracotta warriors on sale at a tourist market
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This page: A bird's eye view of the Yu Yuan Garden
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Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/News Licensing
SHANGHAI
like a welcome banner. As I move on, the drips stain the pavement behind me. My friend April has chosen our restaurant, Old Jesse — it’s a tranquil tonic following my days spent immersed in the thick of ‘new’ Shanghai. The two of us meet on an otherwise vacant tree-lined street, but our table in the 1930s terraced house isn’t ready, so we wander aimlessly up the road and into a residential lane, where we’re met with more drizzle as a woman pours a bucket of water over her head to wash her hair. When our table becomes free, April and I squeeze around a small square of wood in the house’s former living room. Platter after platter of meat is coming out of the kitchen to every mismatched table, and patrons are chomping the chunks, fat and all, at an alarming rate. Ours comes supple, as if it’s been cooked for a day, and perfectly crisped on the fatty side so that the two parts ooze together in a salty swirl. Wilted pea shoots doused in garlic sauce mitigate this heart attack on a plate. Only the ‘drunken chicken’ — slices of breast steeped in rice wine and served cold as per tradition — fails to charm me. Back on Wulumuqi Road, en route to my hotel, the traffic is still buzzing but the streets are quietening. The noodle shops are closing up, with just the last few patrons finishing their meals over calming games of smartphone mahjong. Four pensioners in white singlets play cards around a plastic garden table. Students headed for the clubs buy skewers of meat from a small mobile barbecue, the smoke billowing around their pastel-dyed coifs. And among it all, a young man has rolled out a woven mat on the pavement and fallen fast asleep, presumably to sneak in some zzzs before his morning shift. I admire his zen. At 9am the next morning, I’ve installed myself on the Bund, the riverfront boulevard strung with palatial European landmarks, like diamonds in a flamboyant headdress. I know it well, at least by night, when it glimmers from
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DUCKING ALL THE SELFIE STICKS CRISSCROSSING THE PATH, I FELT LIKE A BRIDE PASSING UNDER AN ARCH OF SABRES
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lights arranged strategically around the spires, columns and domes. Earlier this week I joined the frenzied passeggiata along the promenade, facing the new city of super-tall towers flashing and pinging with adverts across the river. Ducking all the selfie sticks criss crossing the path, I felt like a bride passing under an arch of sabres. That was then. Now, on my last day in town, I’m still not as decompressed as I want to be. April has recommended coming back to the Bund: ‘It’s a different place in the mornings,’ she says. In place of the hordes, six pensioners dressed head to toe in black move with exaggerated slowness in a t’ai chi dance to a tinny soundtrack of pan flutes. I try to find patterns in their gently waving arms and gradual lunges, to align my breathing with the gentle pad of Adidas on pavement. And slowly, surely, with the sun’s glare almost obscuring the hyperbolic skyline to the east, I feel myself slipping towards another world. I’ve still got some sightseeing to do, but rather than navigate through the thick of downtown, I’ve mapped out a route along the Suzhou River, a curly wisp of water snaking along the north side of the city. A landscaped path clings to it, passing century-old textile warehouses and factories converted into lofts, shrubbery peeking out from rooftop gardens. The infamous smog diffuses the sun into a downy duvet of light.
I wander under rows of oak and chestnut, no cars or bikes playing the usual game of Intersection Chicken, and end up beside the yellow-ochre walls of the 19th-century Jade Temple, five minutes’ stroll from the river. Last time I was here, the crowds were four deep around the ceremonial urns, and the threat of third-degree burns from their smouldering joss sticks was anything but Zen, so I brace myself as I enter. But inside, I find couples wandering hand in hand, shaded by swooping eaves, exploring lacquered red halls in peace and reverential quiet. Monks in sighing saffron robes slip by in silence so pure I can hear the slap of their sandals. Why so calm? Last year, I overhear a guide murmuring, the entire temple was hoisted up on rollers and shifted 30m backwards. In the void, a vast courtyard emerged in which to breathe, reflect, and freely swing a joss stick. For a while I sit on the temple steps, breathing in incense and feeling my slouch sink into a slump that almost matches the Buddha’s. I glide to the Metro. Shanghai’s mass-transit system is the longest in the world — and, thanks to its 430kph airport train, the most breakneck-fast too. But by early evening the crowds have dispersed from the immense ticket hall, parting the way to an English-language kiosk. How easy it is to drop in my handful of coins for a ticket, how clear the signs to the platform, how quickly my train arrives, how strangely... relaxing it all is. The train speeds away, causing light projections on the tunnel walls to move like a zoetrope. I lean against a pole and watch meditatively as the air chimes with gadgetry lullabies. This is the last place I would have looked for serenity, but Shanghai surprises even — especially — when it’s not trying. And I think I’ve finally found peace. Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com worldtravellermagazine.com 57
Old Hollywood glamour, sherbet for breakfast and active volcanoes — Faye Bartle enjoys a mind-blowing break under the Sicilian sun
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SICILY
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SICILY
olidaying within spitting distance (almost) of Mount Etna, one of the biggest active volcanoes in the world, certainly adds a small element of danger to what would otherwise be a classic mix of sun, sand and sea in the Med. Sicily’s landmark attraction has an explosive history, most recently ‘waking up’ in May this year with an eruption that created clouds of ash and sent flowing trails of red-hot lava down two sides of its New Southeast Crater. Its fiery displays have captivated people through the ages. As legend has it, the Greek philosopher E mpedocles threw himself into the crater in an attempt to discover the secrets of its eruptive activity, while Theoderic the Great, king of the Ostrogoths, ended up being dragged in by his skittish horse. Like a moth to the flame, I too could not resist the mountain’s magnetic pull, which is how I found myself careering over the rocky landscape in a four-wheel 60 worldtravellermagazine.com
drive one crisp spring morning. “We consider Etna to be a female mountain – she throws out lava every once in a while, but she rarely kills anyone,” jokes my driver Alberto, as he parks up to allow his passengers to explore on foot. “My father brought me here after one particularly large eruption when I was just eight years old. I remember it well, as the lava hadn’t quite cooled down yet and I burnt the soles of my shoes.” Of course, the locals have grown savvy to Etna’s temperamental ways, taking the good with the bad. The volcanic landscape that surrounds the peak is covered in hauntingly beautiful fireweeds: vibrant red, pink and yellow flowers that are a result of the mineral-rich lava that has hardened on the ground. The mountain is also home to thriving vineyards, including the family-run Fischetti, which is best reached by boarding the historic carriages of the Ferrovia Circumetnea r ailway, a
110-kilometre line that almost encircles Etna. Designed to connect Catania and Riposto, the concept was presented by British civil engineer Robert Trewhella in 1885, with its first part inaugurated in 1895. Today, it offers visitors an eyepleasing trip around the mountain, with its characterful steam train popping out on rare occasions to transport people on foodie tours of the area. Fischetti, nestled on the NorthEastern side of Etna, looks just like the house that Vito Corleone retired to in The Godfather – no stretch of the imagination considering many scenes for the acclaimed mob drama were filmed on the island. Covered in lush green vines and surrounded by fruitful gardens (pomegranates, aubergine, and artichoke were all ready for plucking), it’s a warm and welcoming place to go for an intimate feast of delicious Sicilian dishes washed down with the aged results of Fischetti’s best harvest. From cherry tomatoes rich with flavour to gambero rosso ( red prawns) caught
Opening pages from left to right: The beach at Belmond Villa Sant'Andrea; a mixture of Sicilian appetisers by Oliviero restaurant at the Belmond Villa Sant'Andrea Opposite: The view from a room at Belmond Villa Sant'Andrea This page clockwise from top left: A bee gets to work on making lavender honey on Etna; strolling over solidified lava on Etna; Salvatore Rodolico, a boat builder in Acitrezza; granita and brioche
fresh by the local fishermen and the must-try arancini (a ball of creamy risotto rice that’s breaded and then deep fried), meals are an art form here. “Mamma mia!” exclaim my Italian companions, as they sample the simple yet utterly delicious delights. While I’m no foodie, I took this as a sure sign I was onto a good thing. One thing I can assure you, is that you haven’t tasted the real Sicily until you try granita. This classic dessert, also a staple breakfast dish eaten with brioche, is thought to have been inspired by Arab culture during the Muslim conquest of Sicily from 827 until 902 CE. “They brought citrus and sugar cane with them and, essentially, they taught us how to make sherbet,” says chef Giovanna Musumeci, as she rolled up her sleeves to show us how it’s done in the small but lively Pasticceria Santo Musumeci in Randazzo. Just like sorbet, but crunchier, granita is made by blending water, sugar and fruit juice and freezing it in a metal
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EACH COURSE IS SERVED IN A DIFFERENT HOME, WITH A SIDE OF MOTHERLY LOVE
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pan, scraping off the crystals that have formed around the sides and mixing them together to make a refreshingly semi-frozen treat. Simply tear off a chunk of brioche and use it to scoop the granita straight into your mouth. All manner of flavours are added, from mulberry to lemon, but for breakfast you can’t go wrong with coffee or almond flavoured granita – the latter is typical to the region of Catania. Speaking of which, the pistachios are a must-try. Again, I am assured with great gusto by the Italians that the little green nuts here are like nowhere else on the planet –
“mamma mia!” they all cheer in unison. Dining in Sicily is a social affair and if you’re eager to sit down with the locals, you must check out the Le Mamme del Borgo experience. The brainchild of a group of mothers in the charming village of Motta Camastra, you’ll be whisked away for lunch or dinner served in the homes of these talented matriarchs. Each course is served in a different home, giving you the chance to taste authentic dishes with a side of motherly love. It’s a fantastic way to learn why Sicilians are so passionate about cooking. I’d ventured to Sicily for more than just good food, however. For me, the sparkling coastline was the draw card. The Belmond Villa Sant’Andrea, where I was staying, was certainly a feast for the eyes. Set on its own private beach in Taormina Bay, the views are simply stunning. In snagging a suite with a balcony facing the Bay of Mazzarò, I’d found my temporarily child-free happy place where I could read for hours while colourful boats bobbed in the water, brave swimmers worldtravellermagazine.com 61
This page: Fischetti at the foot of Mount Etna Opposite: Isola Bella cuts a shapely figure in the Mediterranean Sea
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jumped from the rocks, and explorers made their way along the narrow pebble beach to the lush Isola Bella. As the famous German writer Johann Wolfgang von Goethe said of Taormina in 1787: “We could not tear ourselves away until after sunset. To watch this landscape, so remarkable in every aspect, slowly sinking into darkness, was an incredibly beautiful sight.” Celebrating its 100th anniversary this year, Belmond Villa Sant’Andrea tells a gripping tale, with all the glamour you’d expect of an exclusive Sicilian retreat. Built by an aristocratic family in 1830, the villa was bought by the Trewhella family in the 1920s (the same Englishman who’d come to help develop the Circumetnea railway). They set about expanding the villa, adding palm trees to the gardens and filling the house with antiques and oil paintings. Following a lockdown period during WW2, the family reopened the villa as a small hotel in 1950. The place quickly became known as a celebrity hotspot, welcoming a roster of high-profile guests, including Sir Winston Churchill and his wife Clementine, Richard Burton, Elizabeth Taylor, Al Pacino and Francis Ford Coppola. And while the Trewhella’s waved goodbye to the property in 1985, this stunning hotel, once just a small house in an olive grove by the sea, still exudes star quality. You don’t have to look far to find the party – even the chefs are at it, regularly transforming the kitchen into a nightclub for foodies, 62 worldtravellermagazine.com
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PLOT A COURSE FOR LIPARI, THE LARGEST OF THE UNESCOPROTECTED VOLCANIC ISLANDS ON THE COAST
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complete with DJs in chef whites. Indeed, sparkling fountains and evenings spent dancing along the shore comprise a standard night ‘in’ here. The estate is just as alluring during the day. The aromas of orange blossom, neroli and jasmine fill the air (a trademark so cherished that Belmond has introduced three dedicated suites inspired by the scents). Eager to seek out my own keepsakes, I made the short stroll to the base of the Taormina Cableway, which whisks passengers up to the town centre in just three minutes. And while this creaking communal zipline may be bad news for those with no head for heights, it is by far the fastest route to the top – and costs just US$6.8 (€6) return. This picturesque h illtop town has plenty to discover, including an ancient Greek theatre that’s still used today. Tourists come to soak up the sweeping Ionian seascapes and, in my case, to shop. Follow in the footsteps of Orson Welles,
D. H. Lawrence and Truman Capote and browse the bustling main thoroughfare and narrow backstreets lined with shops selling gorgeous mementoes to those with money to burn. From beautiful ceramics to vintage travel posters, I was very quickly relieved of all my euros. There’s plenty to distract you from spending too much, however. From private walking tours of the town to catching an opera at the amphitheatre. For something a bit different, the Belmond-organised Ape Tour of Taormina takes you on a whistle-stop tour of the sights in a three-wheeled Ape Calessino (imagine a Europeanstyle tuk tuk). You’ll visit Casa Cuseni, a beautiful honey-stuccoed residence built by British painter Robert Kitson in the early 20th century, go for a picnic on Isola Bella beach, and stop for a drink at Wunderbar, one of Tennesse Williams’ favourite watering holes. If you’re eager to explore the sparkling sea, a boat trip to the Aeolian Islands is sure to impress. Plot a course for Lipari, the largest of the UNESCO-protected, ruggedly volcanic islands that grace the coast. Suitably relaxed, I couldn’t help but wonder if life would be richer in Taormina. Admittedly a dramatic change of pace compared to Dubai, the idea is not entirely beyond the realms of possibility. In January this year, the t own of Mussomeli launched an initiative inviting foreign investors to buy a historic home there for just US$1.1 (€1) – talk about making me an offer I can’t refuse. No joke, however, the Case1euro.it initiative was designed to help regenerate and breathe new life into the area, which is situated just a few kilometres from the beach and is home to just 11,000 people. The only catch? You must renovate the house within three years of buying it – a task that could rack up a six-figure bill, according to my Italian friends. So while I may not have found my permanent slice of Sicilian serenity just yet, the seed has definitely been planted. Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com
SICILY
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Staycations and short-haul escapes
LADY LUCK Eager for a weekend getaway with the girls? While Sharjah may not have been the first destination to spring to mind, the recent opening of Al Bait Sharjah — a sister property of The Chedi Muscat — is a game changer. This beautiful boutique property offers a whole host of women-only services, including options to reserve a complete accommodation block (up to 10-12 rooms) and be served exclusively by female staff/ butlers for the duration of the stay. worldtravellermagazine.com 65
WEEKENDS
CULTURE TRIP
Hagia Sophia
Let us reacquaint you with this culture spot that's ideally placed for a mind-nourishing mini break
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ISTANBUL
HISTORICAL SITES AND MUSEUMS Comprised of three museums – the archaeological museum, the museum of the ancient Orient and the museum of Islamic art – the Istanbul Archaeology Museums draw history buffs with their impressive line-up of archaeological treasures. Just around the corner, Topkapı Palace offers a glimpse into the grand lives of the Ottoman Empire’s Sultans during the 15th and 19th centuries by showcasing extravagant relics of the dynasty’s riches. Widely considered the epitome of Byzantine architectural expertise, Hagia Sophia should be your next stop. Marvel at shimmering gold mosaics, exquisite Arabic calligraphy and huge domes built nearly 1,500 years ago. ART GALLERIES Known for challenging visitors’ ideas about art, Arter is quickly gaining a reputation as an edgy platform for Turkish art featuring the likes of Mona Hatoum, Sarkis and Marc Quinn. More on the avant-garde spectrum, Rodeo offers innovation in spades with its cutting-edge take on art. But the crème de la crème of the city’s art scene is Istanbul Modern. Blending the city's artistic and cultural identity with the international art world is what makes this creative hub a must-see.
THIS MONTH'S HIGHLIGHT Already listed among the most visionary art events of 2019, the 16th Istanbul Biennial is taking place this year between 14 September and 10 November. Curated by French art scholar and writer Nicolas Bourriaud, the long awaited exhibition is titled 'The Seventh Continent' and will aim to highlight the impact of human activities on the planet through the brilliant work of more than 57 artists.
ARTISAN FINDS Coffee lovers should make a beeline to Çadircilar Caddesi near the Grand Bazaar and watch coppersmiths perfect the art of coffee pot-making. For a swirl of colour, places like Iznik produce the best ceramic pieces renowned for their rich and elaborate designs. LOCAL FLAVOUR A true classic, Borsa serves up age-old delicacies with a gorgeous backdrop of the city. Dive into traditional dishes like döner, kuzu taandır and içli köfte. Alternatively, Karaköy Lokantası is the place to go for a taste of home-cooked goodness. The restaurant invites guests with its cosy ambience and delicious spread of local specialities.
Traditional coffee-pot
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WHERE TO STAY Live the Sultan life at Hotel Sultania and indulge in a signature Hammam fit for royals. For those with a keen interest in history, Eresin Crown Hotel boasts the title ‘museum hotel’ for its impressive display of real artefacts from the Ottoman and Byzantine eras.
long weekend the
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This page: Market Square Opposite from top: Entrance gate to the Royal Castle; Hotel Copernicus;
KrakĂłw
A combination of historic architecture underpinned by a rich culture and thriving food and retail scene means Poland’s second city won’t be under the radar for long
LONG WEEKEND
With its cobbled streets, horse-drawn carriages and Cinderella castles, Kraków’s fairy-tale credentials are obvious, but these old-world charms are just part of the city’s appeal. Vestiges of the different eras that have defined Kraków through the centuries offer visitors an opportunity to explore one of Eastern Europe’s most fascinating cities, from the mediaeval monuments of the old town and Renaissance palaces along Florianska Street, to the communist architecture of Nowa Huta and everything in-between. There’s a lively contemporary arts community that hosts a busy calendar of events and a diverse café culture and foodie scene that ranges from budget-friendly milk bars to high-end restaurants serving the finest Polish cuisine. Viewpoints abound from castle towers and church spires while, at street level, there are twisting alleyways and sprawling piazzas to take in.
Kraków’s oldest hotel, the Pod Róza, is located just off the Market Square and features 57 beautifully appointed rooms renovated in keeping with their historic character. Antique furniture is balanced with modern comforts, from gleaming marble bathrooms to frescoed walls and polishedwood floors that set the Renaissance tone in this surprisingly budgetfriendly option. Guests can dine on Tuscan food at Amarone downstairs or international and contemporary Polish cuisine in the hotel’s second restaurant. Not far from here, another mid-size hotel, the Unicus Palace, offers a five-star retreat complete with swimming pool and Jacuzzi to unwind after a day of sightseeing. Inside the old building, the décor is modern and minimalist, with large comfortable beds and a friendly front desk, where staff go out of their way to offer
café culture
A BED FOR THE AGES Characterful abodes abound in a city steeped in history advice. The Grand Hotel in the Old Town was once a favourite among the city’s literati, described as the “most modern and luxurious hotel in town”, when it opened in 1887. Drink in the ambience at the hotel’s Vienna Café and browse the pictures of many former famous
guests on the walls. The 29 rooms at Hotel Copernicus are a fabulous mid-range option in a beautiful building that dates back to the 1500s. Guests can also take an atmospheric dip in the hotel’s unique subterranean swimming pool, which was built under the arches in mediaeval cellars.
When Kraków was under Austrian influence it became common to see Viennese-style coffee houses around the city. Today, Kraków has developed a distinctive café culture of its own, with spots like Bunkier, which adjoins the famous Bunkier Sztuki Gallery. This is a popular venue in its own right, partly due to the garden, where transparent walls are raised in the winter to allow guests to sip their coffee year-round. Wesola Café is a small, intimate space where the smell of crushed coffee beans drifts through the door upon opening. For somewhere to kick back with a good book in hand, Massolit Books and Café is the obvious choice. Cosy, comfy and complete with a well-stocked library of mainly-English books, it’s easy to while away a rainy afternoon in this charming retreat. worldtravellermagazine.com 69
shop the city Take home a souvenir Pick up beautiful wood carvings, amber jewellery, hand-painted ceramics and other traditional items at Sukkience, also known as the Cloth Hall, a traditional trading area where travelling merchants used to congregate to ply their wares. A stroll along Florianska Street is another great way to browse local produce, including Polish culinary delicacies like mountain cheese and pickled cucumbers. Kacper Ryx Historical Shop in the Hipolit House Museum stocks a selection of local arts and crafts as well as vintage items. Shopping malls One of the largest malls in Kraków is Galerie Krakówska, which is located just off Main Market Square. There’s also Galeria Kazimierz, which has bookshops and cafés, as well as a cinema. Local boutiques There is a growing independent fashion scene in Kraków, where edgy boutiques such as Pan Tu Nie Stal offer the latest in hipster wear. Pasaz 13 stocks highend labels, while Boogie Flowear sells boho items at budget prices. On weekends, browse the flea stall stands at Hala Targowa market, which has all sorts for sale; from vintage postcards and second-hand books to clothes to furniture and the odd decent painting. 70 worldtravellermagazine.com
DINE OUT MILKBAR TOMASZA Bar mleczny, or milk bars, are a Polish tradition dating back to 1896 when workers in socialist post-war Poland relied on these governmentsubsidised cafés for affordable hot meals. The revamped interior
at Milkbar Tomasza has made it touristfriendly for local dishes at great prices. STARKA Cosy with candlelight, this is home-cooked Polish food at its best. It’s open until late and gets busy on weekends.
AMARYLLIS Recommended in the 2017 Michelin guide, Amaryllis continues to attract discerning diners with food that combines Polish culinary traditions with the latest trends and techniques to create dishes like the pear and fennel infused Baltic salmon.
Itinerary add-ons
High on a hilltop overlooking the city, Wawel Royal Castle was the royal seat for centuries in Poland and is now one of the country’s premier museums. Many tourists in Kraków pay a visit to Oskar Schindler’s factory, which featured in the movie Schindler’s List and is now a museum where visitors can explore life in Kraków during WWII. Lastly, leafy, peaceful and picturesque Planty Park is where the locals go to wander. The park comprises eight separate gardens that merge to create a circular walking route dotted with cafés serving aromatic coffee.
LONG WEEKEND
KRAKÓW ON FOOT
Choose from a wide selection of walking tours exploring different aspects of the city
WIELICZKA SALT MINE TOUR Follow an experienced guide through the tunnels and chambers of Kraków’s most famous salt mine and see hidden chapels carved by miners many centuries ago, underwater lakes and other extraordinary sites hundreds of metres below ground. kraków-tours.com KRAKÓW BY NIGHT Meet in front of St. Mary’s Church in Main Market Square to discover the city after dark with Cracow Free Tours. The Secrets of Kraków by Night tour delves into the dark corners and turbulent tales behind some of the city’s oldest sites, including mediaeval torture chambers. cracowfreetours.com CREATE YOUR OWN Urban Adventures can tailor a tour to create a truly personalised experience of Kraków. In the past the company has designed behind-the-scenes tours — including organising wheelchair access — in areas not usually open to the public, and arranged culinary adventures with local chefs. urbanadventures.com
Opposite page, from top: A dish by Amaryllis; shoppers on Florianska Street; Planty Park This page from top: Tourists on a walking tour of the city © Urban Adventures; view of horse-drawn carriage through a stained-glass window of Town Hall Tower
insider tips
Words: Olivia Cuthbert
Agata Kulis, a guide at ToursByLocals, shares expert insights into making the most of your time in Kraków Kraków is definitely a city of culture — we celebrate music, art, literature and cuisine. As a musician, my favourite annual event is the Film Music Festival in May. For some of the best views of the city, climb St. Mary’s Tower or walk around the City Defence Walls and peer down into the charming streets and piazzas of Kraków’s Old Town. If you fancy getting out of the city, drive the two hours to the Pieniny National Park and take a dip in the Dunajec River, then stay overnight at the castle in Niedzica on Lake Czorsztyn for a really special experience. Another highlight in this city is the street food and Kraków Grill in Kazimierz is a great place to try it. Mrs Bozenka will serve you traditional delicacies like kielbasa (sausages) and Oscypek (mountain sheep cheese with cranberry sauce) as part of a Polish meal.
ARCHITECTURAL FEAST As the sun sets, head to the heart of Main Market Square and watch the colours of the historic townhouses fade as the silhouettes of some of Kraków’s most famous buildings emerge, from the gothic towers of St. Mary’s Basilica to the Renaissancestyle Cloth Hall, which features a magnificent Polish parapet adorned with carved masks. Take in the 10th-century Church of St. Adalbert and the elegant Town Hall Tower before diving deeper into the Old Town. The entire area is a designated UNESCO
World Heritage site with around 6,000 historic sites encompassing Renaissance, Baroque and Gothic styles. Highlights include the crumbling city walls on cobbled Florianska Street, which is lined with mediaeval façades. At one end is the imposing St. Florian’s
Gate, arguably one of the most impressive Middle Age fortifications in Eastern Europe. Take a turn down Grodzka, one of the city’s oldest streets, to see the grand façades of the old merchant guilds that once lined this former trading route.
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WORLD TRAVELLER X DCT ABU DHABI
THREE WAYS TO EXPERIENCE ABU DHABI...
Architectural gems
Home to some of the world’s most cutting-edge designs, Abu Dhabi is pushing the envelope of architectural imagination like never before
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Feel the world go round at Aldar Headquarters. Deemed the world’s first circular skyscraper, and the first of its kind in the Middle East, this 23-storey 110-metrehigh futuristic office space has taken its place alongside global landmarks for its stateof-the-art design, visual effect and innovative function. Set upon an elevated peninsula, it also offers spectacular city and sea views. Lean 18° west at Capital Gate. Luring architecture fans with its stunning structure, this upscale skyscraper veers 18° to the west, earning the title of the ‘World’s Furthest Leaning Man Made Tower’ from Guinness
Photo: Andaz Capital Gate Abu Dhabi
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World Records. There’s plenty to see on the inside as well, with a permanent art gallery, 165 Below, showcasing works of upcoming Emirati artists. Get ready to rumble at Yas Hotel Abu Dhabi. The brainchild of renowned designers Hani Rashid and Lise Anna Couture, this is the first hotel ever built over an F1 race circuit. But more than that, this is a piece of art, which awes with its vast expanse of sweeping, curvilinear glass and steel. Marvel at the unique effect of its pivoting diamondshaped, colour-changing panes as they reflect LED illuminated video feeds that light up the night sky.
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© Department of Culture and Tourism – Abu Dhabi / Photo by Hufton+Crow. Architect: Jean Nouvel.
DESTINATION: LOUVRE ABU DHABI
SEE HUMANITY IN A NEW LIGHT Louvre Abu Dhabi brings different cultures together to shine light on the shared stories of human creativity. Admission: AED 63, children under 13 free
BOOK A DAY AWAY louvreabudhabi.ae
A QUICK GETAWAY STAYCATION
John Thatcher and family speed to the Waldorf Astoria Ras al Khaimah for a grand weekend
I
t’s rare that my wife and I fight over the car key. Admittedly, this has less to do with the car we drive (the Dubai standard SUV) and more to do with the actual driving we do — the daily school run, which we both undertake to the detriment of our respective blood pressures. This time, however, the allure was altogether different. We wouldn’t be driving (or actually inching our way, bumper to bumper) to school, or clambering inside a permanently dust-covered SUV, littered inside with bits of food, sweet wrappers and whatever ‘art’ the kids have made at school. No, this time we would be driving to the palatial Waldorf Astoria Ras Al Khaimah on a glorious 74 worldtravellermagazine.com
Friday morning, on almost traffic-free roads. And better still, we would be doing so in an Aston Martin Rapide AMR, a four-door sportscar that would likely get us there quicker than it takes for us to complete the 3km school run. The downside? In every picture I had seen of the Aston it has a lurid lime green, 80s style ‘go faster’ stripe running the length of its body, which to my mind makes me at least 20 years too old to drive it. Behind its wheel I would feel as conscious of my age (44) as I would if dressed as a grime artist. So it was with a sense of palpable relief that on collecting the car I saw that the boy-racer green was restricted to a strip of lime that outlines the car’s body. Better still, it
was just enough disagreeable detail to dissuade my wife from laying claim to the key. The other downside to driving a car built and styled for speed is that everyone else on the road takes it as a green light to try and race you. It’s inevitable on Dubai’s roads that drivers of white Nissan Patrols or any coloured Dodge will do this, but you don’t expect it from the driver of a noticeably aged Kia Picanto. But much to the amusement of our kids — loving life in the back seats, which are surprisingly roomy, for anyone aged 10 or below — the manic-eyed male at the wheel of his midnight blue Picanto was pushing it to its extremities as he tried to overtake us, the Picanto visibly
WORLD TRAVELLER X WALDORF ASTORIA RAS AL KHAIMAH
shaking. I could have merely touched the accelerator with the weight of a feather and remained ahead of him, but egged on by the kids (try and forget that I’m 44 at this point) I activate the car’s sports setting and soundtracked by the best sounding engine around, left the Picanto with an aurally delightful roar. And that’s the whole point of the Rapide AMR — it’s great fun. Speed aside, the carbon ceramic breaks are exceptional, the car’s handling impeccable (despite its obvious weight), its balance impressive (thanks to fat tyres on the largest wheels ever attached to an Aston) and it corners nimbly, allowing for full throttle exits. Of more of a surprise is the size of the boot, which easily accommodates a weekend’s luggage. Just as well, as this was a weekend when size mattered. On arrival, the Waldorf Astoria Ras Al Khaimah really is an extraordinary impressive sight: enormous, regal and capped with golden domes. Equally striking is the size of the King Junior Suite, which feels more apartment than room like, so much so that I had to significantly raise the level of my voice to be heard from its entrance hall. Yes, that’s right, an entrance hall. Endless sea views are yours to drink in from an expansive terrace, but with just 24 hours at the resort we were keen to
hit the pool and beach — both, as you’ll have guessed by now, gargantuan. In fact, the beach is by far the country’s most impressive. So large, that in the time it takes you to cross the sand and reach the lapping waves, you’ll be a few chapters into your holiday read. The benefit of everything being supersized is that despite the large number of guests soaking up the sun and families splashing in the pool, we never once felt like the resort was crowded. It makes for a thoroughly relaxing getaway that feels far longer than its 24 hours, aided by excellent staff throughout. Dinner at sleek steakhouse Lexington Grill was the proverbial icing on the cake
— a decadent, baked-to-order warm blue cheesecake, to be precise. The steaks top the bill: a fist-sized fillet with seared-in juice and ample flavour, and a hulking rib-eye dry-aged on site (this is the only UAE restaurant housing the necessary set up to air-dry its beef). A meal fit for a king-sized appetite made for a great night’s sleep, which it was until the bedside alarm clock sounded at 6am. The work of a mischievous previous guest? Perhaps. But it did afford extra time for the kids to order a second stack of buttermilk pancakes at breakfast, and for me to further indulge my midlife crisis in the garish green-striped speed machine.
Opposite: The Aston Martin Rapide AMR This page from top: Surf and turf served up at Lexington Grill Sea; sea views from the King Junior Suite – both at Waldorf Astoria Ras Al Khaimah
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WORLD TRAVELLER X DUKES THE PALM, A ROYAL HIDEAWAY HOTEL
STAYCATION
Dukes The Palm, a Royal Hideaway Hotel Unwind to regal views of the Arabian Gulf ROOMS AND SUITES Fit for royalty, luxury is the hallmark of this Palm Jumeirah hotel, evident in each of its 279 rooms (including 36 suites) and 297 studio and one-bedroom serviced apartments. Check into the spacious Royal Suite (Queen Elizabeth), which covers an area of 146 square metres and enjoy The Royal Service, where a personal butler will cater to your every whim while you relax in the exclusive Royal Lounge.
THE FOOD This British themed hotel leaves no shortage of choice when it comes to stylish gastronomy options, as there is a wide array of exquisite restaurants sure to whet the appetite. Voted one of Dubai’s top 10 Indian restaurants, the Mughal-inspired Khyber features a spice laden round-up of authentic Indian cuisine, while West 14th Steakhouse serves up quality cuts.
THE ACTIVITIES Whether you are planning a relaxing break with friends, or are making the most of the weekend as a family, you won’t be bored here. Every experience is tailor made, with an emphasis on creating special memories – something the hotel has coined 'the art of fine moments'. What's more, little staycationers, aged five to 12 will be entertained all day at DUKESY Kids Club.
To find out more, call +971 4 455 1111 or visit royalhideaway.com 76 worldtravellermagazine.com
1 INSPIRED BY
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THROUGH THE LENS Peleș Castle, Romania "Throughout my travels in Eastern Europe, this is by far the most beautiful castle I have ever encountered. Located in the Carpathian Mountains, near Sinaia, I managed to find a local driver to take me there where I spent the entire day exploring the countryside of Romania. I must have been 22 years old at the time and I was travelling solo across Europe. I had previously ventured a little further east to Russia on a whirlwind week in Moscow, but something about the allure of Romania's countryside, and how it's one of the lesser visited countries in Europe, lured me in. It remains one of my favourite destinations to date."
Travel photographer Brooke Saward loves to travel because: "I get to see the world through the eyes of the different people I meet." @worldwanderlust, worldofwanderlust.com
EMAIL US YOUR BEST TRAVEL PHOTOS in high-res jpeg format, along with the stories behind them to habiba@hotmedia.me and you may end up being featured on this page
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A sublime stay at Sheraton Maldives Full Moon Resort & Spa Surrounded by a shimmering turquoise lagoon, pristine white sandy beaches and swaying palms, this five-star paradise beckons with its tempting array of watersports, including diving, snorkelling, boating, sailing, jet skiing and more. Just 15-20 minutes from Velana International Airport, it is home to 176 dreamy hotel rooms, beach bungalows and overwater villas, many with private pools, as well as seven restaurants and bars and a luxury spa. To find out more and to enter, visit worldtravellermagazine.com/win (terms & conditions apply).
TRAVEL INSPO AT YOUR FINGERTIPS Let our travel news and round-ups, available to read on our website, inspire your next trip…
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The Knowledge. Read our handy how-tos, from getting to grips with travel insurance to helping kids beat jet lag, and more.
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Staycations. Take a peek inside these top hotels and resorts on your doorstep, and then book your next mini break.
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Insider Guides. Check out our in-the-know travel edits of some of the most popular holiday destinations on our radar.
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Inspiration. Expertly crafted. Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai, the world’s tallest 5-star hotel, is centrally located beside the Dubai Water Canal and offers a spectrum of facilities and services for a seamless experience. The hotel features: 1,608 luxurious guest rooms and suites, over 15 award-winning restaurants and lounges, Saray Spa featuring traditional hammams, a Dead Sea Floatation Pool and 17 treatment rooms, state-of-the-art health club and fitness facilities, as well as 8,000 sqm of spectacular meeting spaces.
JW Marriott® Marquis® Hotel Dubai jwmarriott.com/DXBJW Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com