INSPIRED BY
ISSUE 132 | APRIL 2019 | COMPLIMENTARY COPY
The Royal Suite at Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach
JORDAN BUDAPEST INDONESIA READER OFFERS
SUITE SPOTS The Gulf's greatest places to stay in style
One Destination
ENDLESS FUN
Enjoy an ideal staycation for the entire family and enjoy a world of luxury and comfort at any of our two beachfront hotels, JA Palm Tree Court or JA Beach Hotel conveniently located only 15 minutes away from Dubai. Relax by one of the 4 pools and on the 800m private beach or experience the thrill of over 30 exciting activities such as horse riding, golf, water sports and many more.
For bookings or more information, please call +971 4 814 5800 or email reservations.ptc@jaresorts.com
An authentic expression of timeless Arabian hospitality. Infinite reasons to stay here.
oneandonlyroyalmirage.com +971 4 399 9999
Welcome note
If you're seeking a stand-out stay, you've come to the right place, as this month we're delving into the grandest hotel rooms in the GCC. From remote mountaintop hideaways to duplex residences complete with acres of polished marble,
Managing Director Victoria Thatcher Editorial Director John Thatcher General Manager David Wade Managing Editor Faye Bartle faye@hotmediapublishing.com Content Writer Habiba Azab
our edit of the most coveted spaces provides all the inspiration you need to book a dream stay. The feature also inspired our beautiful cover shoot, which takes you on a sumptuous tour of the The Royal Suite at Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach (p42). If you fancy venturing further afield, Venice, Bangkok, Buenos Aires and Honolulu are the places that are trending this month, according to our insider at dnata Travel. Turn to page 10 to ponder which one will win you over. Wherever you're heading next, why not let the excitement build by getting stuck into one of our long reads? Join Stephen Doig as he soaks up perfect views in glamorous Portofino (p52), and satisfy a taste for adventure with Sarah Gilbert's foodie tour of Jordan (p58). Alternatively, for history, culture and fun in spades, Lara Brunt's long weekend in Budapest (p74) will help you get under the skin of this charming capital city. Happy travels, Faye Bartle
Win!
Editorial Assistant Julianne Tolentino
A dreamy holiday at Anantara Kalutara Resort in Sri Lanka on p99
Art Director Kerri Bennett Senior Designer Hiral Kapadia Senior Advertising Manager Mia Cachero mia@hotmediapublishing.com
FIVE THINGS WE LEARNED THIS ISSUE: 1
Sulawesi and the Spice Islands in Indonesia have been off-grid until now, thanks to new flights, p64
2
Calling all influencers! Social media posts with a location added enjoy 79% more engagement than those without, p24
3
Can you shake it? The world’s most prestigious hula competitions are taking place in Hilo this month, p13
4
Known as the City of Spas, more than 100 thermal springs lie beneath Budapest, p74
5
You can now rent an air-conditioned private cabana-style day room at La Mer in Dubai, so you can stretch your beach days well into the summer, p72
Production Manager Muthu Kumar INSPIRED BY
Photography credits: Getty Images and Phocal Media Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller. Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494
COVER IMAGE The Royal Suite at Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach Model wears: Dress: Valentino. Shoes: Stuart Weitzman
Find us at‌ ONLINE worldtravellermagazine.com FACEBOOK @worldtravellermagazine INSTAGRAM @dnataworldtraveller TWITTER @WT_Magazine
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The cultural emirate awaits you
Jumeirah Al Wathba Desert Resort & Spa
Contents April 2019
19
ABU DHABI
regulars 10
15
24
28
100
This month's goto places include beautiful Venice and Bangkok for the Thai New Year festivities
How to photograph NYC like a pro; new luxury retreats on our radar; ways to stay active while travelling; and foodie finds at The Pointe
Wellness and travel influencer Carly Neave (@carlyneave) spills the secrets of catching more 'likes' from your sunlounger
We all deserve a little luxury on occasion... we've rounded up the Gulf's very best rooms, suites and villas to retreat to
Why the decidedly Gallic Presidential Suite by Roche Bobois at The Langham, New York, Fifth Avenue has the wow factor
TRENDING DESTINATIONS
GLOBETROTTER
THE KNOWLEDGE
COVER FEATURE
SUITE DREAMS
worldtravellermagazine.com 7
CONTENTS
features
52
58
64
Favoured by Elizabeth Taylor and Ava Gardner, Portofino calls with its glamorous vibe and postcard-perfect views
A foodie tour offers a chance to enjoy age-old traditions and renowned hospitality in dramatic Jordan
Sulawesi and the Spice Islands have been off-grid until now. Alex Robinson heads off in pursuit of paradise
LA DOLCE VITA
A SENSE OF PLACE
TWICE AS SPICE
58 JORDAN
weekends 72
REASONS TO VISIT LA MER
Dubai's hip stretch of waterfront has a new wave of must-dos
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74
82
94
Hungary’s capital has history, culture and fun in spades
Feel in need of a break? We have six more good reasons to book a weekend escape
It's time we sent you packing. Choose your next adventure from our exclusive offers
A LONG WEEKEND IN BUDAPEST
STAYCATIONS
TRAVEL OFFERS
ISN’T IT JUST SUITE TO BE HERE AT RENDXB? Rediscover luxury in one of our indigenously designed suites while overlooking Dubai’s unique views. For more information visit renaissancedowntowndubai.com or email rendxb.sales@renhotels.com
RENAISSANCE DOWNTOWN HOTEL, DUBAI Marasi Drive Business Bay Dubai PO Box 191984 United Arab Emirates. t: +971.4.512.5555
TRENDING DESTINATIONS
Emily Williams, dnata Travel’s resident globetrotter, reveals the places that are trending this month
Venice
Savvy travellers are making the trip to Venice before the summer crowds descend, when temperatures are comfortably warm and it’s generally quieter, therefore easier to catch a gondola and explore this beautiful Italian city. April 25 is a national holiday upon which various traditions are celebrated, including the Bocolo (rosebud) festival, which sees men present a rose to their beloved, and monumental feasts taking place in St. Mark’s Square. Highlights 1 Catch a regatta: between April and September around 120 take place, coinciding with local festivals. 2 Savour a Michelin star meal at Glam by Enrico Bartolini, which blends contemporary Italian cuisine with Venetian ingredients. 3 Craft your own Venetian mask at Ca 'Macana in Dorsoduro, which has classes for all ages.
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TRENDING DESTINATIONS
Bangkok
To mark Thai New Year, the world-famous Songkran Festival is taking place from 13-15 April, during what is typically the hottest month in the calendar. Also known as the ‘water festival’, expect a host of traditional rituals and street parties across the country, including mass water fights. One of the most renowned is Silom in Bangkok, which stretches along a 4km-long street. Afterwards, get out and explore the city's vibrant markets and cultural landmarks. Highlights 1 Visit the sacred temples, such as Wat Phra Kaew in the city centre, which wows with its beauty. 2 Shop for keepsakes in the street markets, such as the vast Chatuchak Weekend Market, home to thousands of stalls. 3 Join the glitterati at Sky Bar at Lebua at State Tower, which boasts one of the best views of the city.
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Buenos Aires
The first month of the ‘off season’ for Argentina’s cosmopolitan capital, and the start of autumn, April brings quieter streets and great value hotel rates. This city rarely sleeps, and with its endless cafés, delicious cuisine, European architecture, historic sites, plazas and museums, it’s not surprising it has been referred to as ‘the Paris of South America’. Enjoy a café con leche in Café Tortoni, a known hangout of the great tango dancer Carlos Gardel. Highlights 1 Indulge at one of the city’s classic parrillas (steakhouses), such as the sizzling La Cabrera, which has cult status. 2 Pay respect at La Recoleta Cemetery, where you can visit the graves of notable people including Eva Perón. 3 Get your contemporary art fix at The Latin American Art Museum of Buenos Aires.
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TRENDING DESTINATIONS
Honolulu
Hawaii's cosmopolitan capital city stretches across the southeastern shores of the island, from Pearl Harbor to Makapuu Point, with the famous Waikiki Beach providing a dreamy pit stop along the way – at this time of year, you can keep your eyes peeled for humpback whales. For added fun, hop on a domestic flight to Hilo (the Big Island) to enjoy the Merrie Monarch Festival from 21-27 April, featuring the world’s most prestigious hula competitions. Highlights 1 There’s no better place to learn to surf, so grab a board and get started. 2 Go hiking in Waimea Falls Park, making your way through the lush gardens to the cascading waterfalls. 3 Fall in love with Halona Beach Cove, where the movie From Here to Eternity was filmed in 1953.
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Globetrotter APRIL
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Be informed, be inspired, be there
ROCK STAR A favourite of emperors and actors, follow in the footsteps of Augustus and Audrey Hepburn and be captivated by the natural beauty of the magical island of Capri. Clinging to a cliff face with heart-stopping views of Marina Piccola bay and dramatic Faraglioni rock formation, the Le Corbusier designed Punta Tagara Resort & Spa has played host to the likes of Sir Winston Churchill and General Eisenhower, but today is an exclusive retreat for well-heeled travellers in search of escapist luxury.
World Traveller 15
GLOBETROTTER An early-morning walk in Central Park Photo © 2019 Serge Ramelli
MASTERCLASS
How to photograph NYC
French photographer and YouTube star Serge Ramelli tells us how to capture the city that never sleeps like a pro New York is a photographer's paradise, with incredible architecture at every turn. The Gothic and Art Deco style from the early 20th century is like nowhere else on the planet. Colour conveys a lot more emotion than black and white. It offers a better sense of time and the seasons, as well as a more accurate character. When shooting big landmarks, offer a viewpoint with a foreground
element that is interesting but not too big. I recommend shooting the Empire State Building from The High Line, using the old houses as the foreground element. Be sure to catch the ‘blue hour’ right after sunset, when there are still details in the sky, and all the city lights are strong. You have around a 20-minute window. After that it’s too dark and the moment is gone. Capturing specific subjects such as the Brooklyn Bridge or City Hall? Try
to get a framing that communicates a story. To tell the tale of the Brooklyn Bridge, for instance, do it in the way so you don't have tourists, cars or unwanted elements that are going to distract from your main story. Lesser-known corners of the city worth photographing include the Financial District in Lower Manhattan; 72 Street Subway Station in the Upper West Side at night; and the view from the Time Warner Center. New York by Serge Ramelli is published by teNeues, teneues.com
Turn heads at the beach with some playful accessories by Berluti, which has stamped its savoir-faire onto holiday favourites, including a vibrant pool ring. berluti.com 16 World Traveller
GLOBETROTTER
NEW HOTELS Go gaga over this trio of luxury retreats OASIS OF LUXURY ABU DHABI Jumeirah Al Wathba Desert Resort & Spa Immerse yourself in Emirati tradition in Abu Dhabi’s desert hinterland at this sprawling 22,000sqm resort. Quintessential Jumeirah luxury is woven into a desert village aesthetic that exudes oasis vibes, from its 103 stone-walled rooms and villas to its destination spa, desert camp dining and backdrop of towering sand dunes. SAFARI SO GOOD RWANDA Magashi Camp An ultra-exclusive safari hideaway in the heart of Rwanda's Akagera National Park, Magashi Camp boasts six lavish tented abodes overlooking stunning Lake Rwanyakazinga. Teeming with plains and lake game including lions and hippos, guests can enjoy five-star downtime around the fire pit or on the viewing terrace.
Jumeirah Al Wathba Desert Resort & Spa
JUNGLE LOOK MEXICO Chablè Maroma Tucked into tropical jungle and fronted by white sand, this is escapist luxury, Riviera Maya style. Redefining wellness is its mantra and the 70 eco suites each come with a private pool, terrace and hammock. Oceanfront infinity pools, a restorative spa and trio of Mexican and seafood inspired restaurants feed both body and soul.
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ON OUR RADAR Finland is ranked among the happiest countries in the world, and you can learn the secrets of the good life thanks to Visit Finland's Rent a Finn initiative, which sees eight Finnish citizens working as happiness guides for lucky travellers this summer. You have until 14 April to apply for the free visit. rentafinn.com Learn about the traditional art of pearl diving in the Arabian Gulf by taking part in Yas Island's new
Serdal Pearl Diving Expedition in Abu
FIT TO FLY FIND YOUR BALANCE Egyptian ballerina Engy El Shazly tells us how to stay active while travelling…
Maintaining a healthy lifestyle can be a challenge at the best of times – especially so when you're away from home. While I’m not suggesting you don’t indulge from time to time when on holiday, it’s important to find a healthy balance. If anything, staying active will help make your travels more enjoyable and even the little things can make a difference, such as waking up 30 minutes earlier to stretch in your hotel room or to join a fitness class.
The ballet style workouts I’m hosting with JW Marriott Hotels & Resorts, provide a full body workout that flexes muscles you probably haven’t used in a while. Regular practise can give you as much strength as you'd get training with small weights. It’s great for your posture, core, and flexibility. Plus, it can help raise the spirits. If you’re worried you may not be any good at it, I urge you to just try it. I didn’t start ballet until I was 27 20 worldtravellermagazine.com
Dhabi, which invites you to set sail on a traditional Emirati dhow and dive for treasures. Every Wed, Thu and Fri from 8am-1.30pm. and there were many times when I just wanted to give up, but where's the fun in that?
There are lots of fun ways to workout when you’re on vacation. Dubai, for instance, is a great place to try something adventurous, such as cycling in the desert – you can rent bikes at Al Qudra Cycling Track. I’m in Cairo this month, where simply walking around the city is a great way to get active and explore the destination in more depth.
Still tempted to slump on a sunlounger? I think about how I’ll feel when I return from my holiday and all the extra work I’ll need to do to get back on track. As long as you make some time to get active during your break, this is something you can easily avoid. Engy El Shazly has teamed up with JW Marriott Hotels in the Middle East and Africa to curate a series of Behind the Barre fitness classes. The next one takes place this month at JW Marriott Hotel Cairo, JWMarriottBehindTheBarre.com
Give jet lag the brush off with the help of Waldorf Astoria Dubai Palm Jumeirah's new Jet Lag Guru, who'll help you breeze into holiday mode pronto, with top tips on recovering from longhaul travel, energising meal ideas, fatigue-fighting activities and more. Need a pre-summer health kick? The Farm at San Benito medical wellness resort in Lipa, Philippines, has unveiled new health and wellness retreats designed to restore balance, with key concerns such as diabetes prevention and heart health in the spotlight.
Photo: Olli Oilinki / Visit Finland
GLOBETROTTER
WORLD TRAVELLER XXXXXXXXXXXXX X SCTDA
FOR THE THRILL OF IT Head beyond Sharjah’s city limits and discover the emirate’s abundant natural landscape, rich archaeological heritage and adventurous pursuits
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harjah may be famous for its many attractions, but if you haven’t yet discovered the destination's outdoor allure, there’s no better time than the present. Away from the hubbub of Sharjah city, Mleiha is home to the famous Fossil Rock (pictured left), with fascinating archaeological sites, from Bronze Age tombs to ruined pre-Islamic forts, book-ending the experience. Mleiha Archaeological Centre is the base for a wealth of activities, including tours to the Valley of Caves and a hidden wadi, as well as FatBoy bicycle desert excursions that combine top archaeological sites with awesome nature-spotting experiences you can’t find anywhere else. Closer to the centre, a much loved spot to check out is Al Khan Beach, the emirate’s original seaside destination that’s home to endless kilometres of unspoilt beachfront. There’s a wide range of watersports on offer, from leisurely paddle boarding to kitesurfing. If you prefer to keep two feet on the sand, you can rope friends or family into a game of beach volleyball before relaxing at a local café. On the East coast, the picturesque town of Khorfakkan is another popular location for families, where you can spend the day in the bay or make a weekend of it by camping under the stars. There’s a lot to see and do here, with kids’ play areas, watersports and a dive centre to keep you busy. Plus, with the photogenic Hajar Mountains a dramatic backdrop, you can snap some memories for the family album. Swap sea and sand for hiking trails and mountain drives at the small coastal town of Kalba, which is bordered by a vast expanse of protected mangrove forest. Learn about the rare birds that inhabit these wetlands at the Kalba Bird of Prey Centre, watch them in their natural habitat on a kayaking tour, or spot an Arabian leopard at Al Hefaiyeh Mountain Conservation Centre. Kids will love playing king of the castle at historic Kalba Fort while parents will appreciate its traditional Emirati architecture and Islamic collectibles.
Find out more at visitsharjah.com
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A SINGLE ISLAND, AN OCEAN OF EXPERIENCES. Escape to one of the three exotic Anantara resorts on Sir Bani Yas island. Turn your dream vacation into reality with only a two-hour drive from Abu Dhabi City. Email crome@anantara.com or call +971 2 895 8700.
LIFE IS A JOURNEY. Visit anantara.com CAMBODIA • CHINA • INDONESIA • MALDIVES • MOZAMBIQUE • OMAN • PORTUGAL • QATAR • SRI LANKA • THAILAND • UNITED ARAB EMIRATES • VIETNAM • ZAMBIA
GLOBETROTTER Palapa
TOP SPOTS FOR SUNDOWNERS PHANTOM HOUSE: A tight-knit ensemble of five signature drinks headline the showstopping sundowner menu, with your choice prepared tableside by the resident liquid chef. KYO: Head upstairs in this ultra-stylish Japanese venue for wide-open sea views and an artistic beverage menu including the signature Gingerbread Baby with its fragrant smoked hibiscus and blackcurrant notes.
Get to The Pointe
Our edit of must-try flavours at Dubai's top foodie hotspot, The Pointe, on Palm Jumeirah
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RUE ROYALE French Award-winnning chef Mathieu Viannay heads up this pioneering French fine dining concept that puts a 100 percent halal spin on hearty French bistro fare. Authentic ingredients are flown in from the motherland to create standout delights including a classic pâtÊ en croute and must-try hot French Madeleine dessert.
PALAPA Mexican There's more to Mexican cuisine than the ubiquitous taco and Palapa is on a mission to re-educate the nacho crowd with foodie delights including a zesty sea bass ceviche, achingly tender short ribs and king crab causa. We'd be fibbing if we said that tacos and nachos didn't make an appearance, but here they're top notch.
CHICAGO MEATPACKERS North American Go big or go home but you certainly won't go hungry with a menu inspired by Chicago's Union Stock Yards. A lava stone grill is the steak maker of choice while a team of in-house butchers ensure that it's prime beef all the way. Chow down on a signature 1.2kg tomahawk steak (and sides) while taking in relaxing waterfront views.
MUST TRY: the feta cheese at Greek restaurant Ena. Imported directly from the chef's home city of Kalavrita, it sings with fresh, salty goodness and even makes it onto the dessert menu in the form of ice cream.
A CAPPELLA: Awardwinning drinks expert Sherin John's superbly handcrafted signature cocktails pack an Asian inspired punch while the open courtyard with stunning sea views adds a sweet hit of soul.
HOT DISH Chopsticks at the ready! A Vietnamese street food staple, grab a steaming bowl of the fragrant chicken or beef noodle broth known as pho straight from the Mekong Delta at Mama Pho. Spicy, sour, salty, bitter and sweet, this is the holy grail of Asian flavours.
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KNOW-HOW
The Knowledge HOW TO...
Master your social media while on holiday Wellness and travel influencer @carlyneave spills the secrets of catching a fresh wave of 'likes' while you’re away Zaya Nurai Island
Do make your images stand out. There’s so much travel content on social media that you need to ensure your pictures have a point of difference in order to stand out. If you don’t want to spend a lot of time editing at your desktop – especially while on holiday – then there are lots of apps you can use to add some personality to your pictures. There are five main image and video editing apps I use on my phone: Prequel, VidLab, Unfold, Lightroom for mobile and RNI Films. Personally, I love my blues and greens, and always boost these tones in my images to give a consistent look and feel to my wall. It’s an easy way to add polish if you’re frequently posting shots of the pool and beach. Don’t be a show off. It’s easy to fall into the trap of coming across as a bit of a diva when showing off your dreamy over-water Maldives villa. Avoid pouting in photos and videos and know when to ditch the reportage style – the detached sentiment can be a turn off. By all means share your wonderful experiences, but keep it authentic, with captions that people can relate to and by making eye contact with the camera when the pic calls for it. Instagram stories are key for boosting engagement, but don’t get carried away. Generally speaking, posting at least once a day is enough to keep your audience entertained, and to grow it, but go way beyond this and you’ll not only give your friends the hump, but you may even see your followers fall away.
Don’t be afraid to experiment with equipment. So many people travel to the same places these days but you can offer a unique perspective on a destination with 24 worldtravellermagazine.com
some choice equipment. I like the DJI Osmo Mobile 2, a handheld smartphone gimbal that’s great for smoothing videos with movement, such as giving people a tour of your hotel room. I use an Underwater Diving Dome for shots that are half in and out of the water. Lastly, a drone is a great way to elevate your game. I have the Mavic Pro Platinum – there’s a good drone course in Dubai at Sanad Academy (sanadacademy.ae) that’ll show you how to use it. Do bother with hashtags. It’s no secret that posts with hashtags earn more likes and views. I’d advise posting around 25 different hashtags – a number Instagram comfortably allows. I have a bank of ‘classic’ hashtags that are trending, like #beautifuldestinations and #aroundtheworld, that I use to make up half this quota. I then add my targeted hashtags that are appropriate to the destination I’m in and what
I’m doing in the picture. Also, make sure you tag within the picture – I’ve found using 10-15 tags is effective. Tag those you hope will see and reshare your snap or story, such as the official account of the hotel or resort you’re staying at, the relevant tourist board, or local media outlets or travel magazines. This virtual “hello” can be very effective. Do pose a question. Your post will perform better if your follower's comments are comprised of five words or more, as the Instagram algorithm will pick up on it. So when you’re writing your captions, be sure to ask your followers a question that begs a quality answer. Follow Carly at @carlyneave and CarlyNeave.com
#TIP Tag your location. Posts that do so receive 79% more engagement, according to a study by Simply Measured.
WORLD TRAVELLER X CAESARS BLUEWATERS DUBAI
Stay like a CAESAR Embrace your inner emperor at Caesars Bluewaters Dubai
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ringing all the power of its legendary Las Vegas cousin to the UAE, Caesars Bluewaters Dubai encapsulates true Roman decadence. It comprises a trio of resorts: Caesars Palace Bluewaters Dubai is the place for a royal escapade; Caesars Resort Bluewaters Dubai is spot on for a memorable family getaway; and the Residences at Caesars Palace Bluewaters Dubai has a home away from home vibe ideal for longer stays.
MAKE A GRAND ENTRANCE Take the short journey across the Arabian Gulf from Jumeirah Beach Residence to Bluewaters, where the resorts occupy a premier position, complete with an up close view of Ain Dubai observation wheel. From the moment you arrive, you’ll be wowed by the attentive service. Settle into your luxurious room and enjoy Caesars' fun-fused approach to luxury. Next, lap up the rays at Cove Beach – a stylish beach club – with your own private stretch of sand while your little emperors camp like a Bedouin or join in the Roman Games at the activity-filled kids club.
TIME TO FEAST There are more than 12 restaurants, bars and lounges, and a must-try is Gordon Ramsay's HELL’S Kitchen. Inspired by the hit television show and serving the same world-class cooking that made its Las Vegas counterpart a runaway success, the venue is proving popular among Dubai’s influential foodie set. Alternatively, soak in the panoramic views of the Gulf while tucking into contemporary Japanese delicacies at Paru.
WOW ENTERTAINMENT End your stay on a high note at The Rotunda, a 500-seat, 360-degree viewing venue inspired by Rome’s famous Pantheon. It welcomes an electric roster of live acts from Las Vegas and is currently home to the award-winning variety spectacle WOW, featuring over 30 acrobats, aerialists and dancers.
ROMAN RITUALS Be pampered at Qua Spa, with a signature ritual, pampering body massage or bespoke facials – all the treatments are designed to help you achieve your perfect Qi (energy). Available in the UAE for the first time, try the Japanese inspired lyashi Dome, which uses cutting edge technology to cleanse the body and restore balance – all while burning an impressive 600 calories. To find out more, visit caesars.com/dubai worldtravellermagazine.com 25
WORLD TRAVELLER X ANANTARA PEACE HAVEN TANGALLE RESORT
Edge of paradise Find your zen at Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle Resort, where the natural world is on your doorstep and tranquillity is on tap
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arco Polo was so enraptured by Sri Lanka that he famously christened it ‘the most beautiful island in the world’. For the 21st century traveller, the charm of this tropical Indian Ocean gem doesn’t get any more paradisiacal than the Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle Resort. Situated on the southern tip of the island, the old fort town of Tangalle is a world away from the more crowded tourist locales and the resort certainly checks all the retreat-worthy boxes. One-of-akind setting nestled in the lush greenery of a former coconut plantation? Tick. Uninterrupted golden-hued stretch of beach fringed by swaying palms? Yours for the strolling. Bespoke cliff-top dining experience for two? This way please. With 152 rooms and villas opening onto idyllic vistas of the Indian Ocean, selective seclusion is the watchword. The lure of
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a Beach Pool Villa with its own perfectly chilled plunge pool may well overrule any desire for active exploration, but there are plenty of zen moments to savour around the resort. Set positive intentions for the day with sunrise asanas by the sea in the yoga pavilion, sign up for a beginner’s surfing lesson with Tropicsurf luxury surf excursions, or grab a basket for a food lover’s tour of the local markets paired with a cooking class. Day trips further afield immerse travellers in the natural world with Udawalewe National Park the place to spot wild elephants, UNESCO listed Sinharaja Forest Reserve jam-packed with flora, fauna and wildlife, while the cultivated slopes of Handunugoda Tea Estate speak to a bygone era. The resort also has local flavour in spades, and Sri Lanka’s culinary pedigree is reimagined at Verala where the farm to
table menu unexpectedly blends teppanyaki techniques with local influences. You’d also be hard pressed to find better Italian cuisine anywhere on the island than beachside at Il Mare, while Il Vino’s legendary cellar-style degustation dinners are the ultimate social dining occasion. Max out your tranquillity quotient at Anantara Spa where Ayurveda wellness programmes sit alongside homegrown experiences such as the King Coconut Delight. Lastly, you can learn more about the resort’s dedication to sustainability while on a guided stroll through the organic rice paddy field and garden, ending with a farm-to-table dining experience atop a traditional treehouse. Plus, you can make a difference by helping to release turtle hatchlings to the ocean, as part of the resort's conservation project.
To find out more, call +94 47 767 0700 or visit anantara.com
Inside a Garden Pool Villa
Retreat to a twobedroomed villa Tour the local markets and then join a cooking class
The approach to the spa
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Royal Suite, One&Only Royal Mirage
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SUITE SPOTS SPOTS2019 2019 SUITE
Suite spots We all deserve a little luxury on occasion and a night or two in a swanky hotel usually fits the bill. But, just like an unexpected airline upgrade to business or first, once you set foot inside the hotel room equivalent, nothing will ever be the same again. A-lister artworks, a private screening room and gold leaf galore on your wish list? Infinity pool, beachfront
vistas without another person in sight and an on-call chef the only way to travel? From remote mountaintop hideaways and architecturally iconic penthouses, to duplex residences complete with a retinue of live-in staff and acres of polished marble, we've rounded up the Gulf's very best ways to rest up. Follow us as we take a sneak peek inside...
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C R E AT E SPECIAL MOMENTS WITH US.
DUBAI MARRIOTT HARBOUR HOTEL & SUITES KING SALMAN BIN ABDULAZIZ AL SAUD STREET DUBAI MARINA, PO BOX 66662, DUBAI, UAE T. 971.4.319.4000 | DUBAIMARRIOTTHARBOURHOTEL.COM Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites @marriottharbour
Standing tall in the heart of Dubai Marina, featuring incomparable panoramic views of the city, combine the best of all worlds with luxurious accommodation, three contemporary dining destinations and a blissful caravanserai-inspired, Saray Spa.
SUITE SPOTS 2019
WHAT Royal Penthouse WHERE The Abu Dhabi EDITION, UAE WHY WE RATE IT Ian Schrager’s eco-conscious approach to luxury puts a different and welcoming spin on a stay in this parquet floored, warm wood-panelled cream, grey and subtly bronze-brushed sixth floor sanctuary. The private VIP lift means you arrive in style to a choice of three bedrooms and bathrooms stocked with heavenly Le Labo amenities featuring a signature EDITION scent. Save your sighs for the spectacular terrace overlooking Al Bateen Marina and prepare to be impressed by the hotel’s sustainability commitment, with your luxe lifestyle powered by solar water heating and not a single plastic bottle or straw in sight.
WHAT Royal Suite WHERE Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach, UAE WHY WE RATE IT If you like a side of serious exclusivity mixed in with your Dubai itinerary, this sea-facing retreat doesn't disappoint, with 600 square metres of VIP living space and a private elevator to transport you to an airy penthouse floor landscape of towering columns and twinkling chandeliers. Movie buffs can hunker down in the media room, while aspiring chefs will feel perfectly at home in the swanky all mod cons kitchen. A full-width terrace is the grand final flourish. See p42 for further proof...
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SUITE SPOTS 2019 WHAT Beit Musandam, The Private Reserve WHERE Six Senses Zighy Bay, Oman WHY WE RATE IT It’s a stretch to top the arrival experience, especially if you choose to paraglide into the private bay (luggage sent separately), but there’s nothing reserved about this 3,000-squaremetre corner of Omani inspired paradise. There’s way too much fun to be had with an oversized infinity pool, private beach, bottle cellar, spa suite, yoga studio and huge majlis. One night definitely isn't long enough to try it all, but the complimentary private sunset dhow cruise, and barbecue prepped by your private chef are a must.
WHAT Presidential Suite WHERE Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay, Bahrain WHY WE RATE IT As you would expect from this architecturally arresting hotel constructed on a private island, its Presidential Suite makes an equally bold statement. The 228-square-metre pied-à-terre pays homage to interior design decadence, with a cream colour palette offset by Murano glass chandeliers, eclectic artwork and popping peacock blue accents. Yet 180-degree city views steal the show.
WHAT Sir Winston Churchill Suite WHERE Habtoor Palace, LXR Hotels & Resorts, UAE WHY WE RATE IT The brainchild of hotel owner Khalaf Al Habtoor, who is a fan of the British wartime leader, this staggeringly huge three-bedroom museum-suite is home to a collection of 15 (reproduction) paintings, art pieces and photographs from the official Churchill archives. Educational leanings aside, it’s packed with cool things, from the enclosed rooftop plunge pool and terribly British marble fireplace, to a dramatic spiral staircase and gigantic his ‘n’ hers double vanity bathroom stocked with Acqua di Parma goodies. 32 worldtravellermagazine.com
SUITE SPOTS 2019
WHAT Three Bedroom Royal Mountain Villa WHERE Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort, Oman WHY WE RATE IT Not everyone can say they stayed at the highest five-star resort in the Middle East or (voluntarily) spent the night on the edge of a cliff. Bucket list stuff with a hint of James Bond fantasy, the 700-square-metre villa features a private infinity pool, panoramic canyon views and al fresco Jacuzzi. A majlis-style living area, separate nanny quarters and dedicated Villa Host add the finishing touches to this one-of-akind abode.
WHAT Presidential Suite WHERE Renaissance Downtown Hotel, Dubai, UAE WHY WE RATE IT The only of its kind at the hotel, this stylish suite (right) is the stuff city dwelling dreams are made of, with floorto-ceiling windows offering uninterrupted views of Dubai Water Canal and the skyline. Locally inspired artistic touches, such as the Gold Souk-inspired sculptures and Picasso’s camel sketch, which has been re-interpreted into a 3D iron rod sculpture above the bed, enrich the sense of place. Separate living and dining areas and a pool table keep the space social. WHAT Royal Suite WHERE Fairmont Bab Al Bahr, UAE WHY WE RATE IT Come here to take over an entire floor and follow in the complimentary slippered foosteps of a host of celebs, who have undoubtedly been wowed by the perfectly framed views of the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque the room bestows. A personal butler, private dining area, stunning living spaces and bucketloads of contemporary chicness don't hurt, plus guests also get Fairmont Gold lounge access.
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WHAT Garden House WHERE The Ritz-Carlton Abu Dhabi, Grand Canal, UAE WHY WE RATE IT This two-bedroom Garden House is, as its name suggests, set in its own little landscaped garden and wrapped in a profusion of hot pink bougainvillea. Guests get to play house, from DIY barbecue fun on the expansive stretch of private terrace, to pottering around the modern kitchenette. The décor is naturally the luxe variety you would expect from Ritz-Carlton, and 400-thread count linen is the norm – as are Asprey-branded toiletries.
Discover a Revolutionary Beauty Line! Renew for the journey ahead.
We have something new and exciting for you. Behold the mind-blowing, anti-aging and hydrating facial treatments by an innovative Korean product line, which uses Diamonds. Yes, you read that right! Diamonds are known for their ability to deliver ingredients to the deepest layers of your skin. Want to know the best part? You get to go home with your own box of exquisite products after each treatment. For more information or to make a booking please call +971 4 414 6754.
JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE mhrs.dxbjw.spa@marriott.com | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com
Abu Dhabi Suite, The St Regis Abu Dhabi
WHAT Abu Dhabi Suite WHERE The St. Regis Abu Dhabi, UAE WHY WE RATE IT You know you’ve got it made when your living room is actually a sky bridge connecting two 200-metre tall towers, but that’s just for starters in this rather extraordinary duplex residence. The trompe l’oeil circular design of the master suite bed is a nice touch and if you like your hotel rooms gilded, the Midas effect is evident throughout. If 360-degree city views aren’t cinematic enough, you have your own screening room plus library, two-storey majlis and private spa for in-suite stress relief.
WHAT Royal Suite WHERE Jumeirah Messilah Beach Hotel & Spa, Kuwait WHY WE RATE IT Wellbeing is the raison d’être at this beachfront resort, and you’ll easily find your zen ensconced in 360 square metres of regal luxury overlooking the blue ocean, tranquil pool and lush green hotel gardens. Beachfront yoga session and signature spa treatments done, gather the family for dinner around the stunning inlaid marquetry table (left) before diving under the light-as-a feather quilt of your super comfy kingsized bed for what will be one of the best night's sleep you'll ever have. WHAT Grand Royal Suite WHERE Fairmont Makkah Clock Royal Tower, KSA WHY WE RATE IT Location, location, location. It doesn’t get better than the twobedroom Grand Royal Suite with direct views over the Kaaba. Royally grand on every level, tally up the two dressing rooms, spa treatment room, personal office, kitchen and butler’s room, plus access to a separate sitting area and dining room for up to 40 guests. It’s a guaranteed delight for the welltravelled pilgrim or business guest. 36 worldtravellermagazine.com
WHAT Two Bedroom Penthouse Suite WHERE JW Marriott Marquis Dubai, UAE WHY WE RATE IT The gleaming double height floor-toceiling windows are a canvas for views of the meandering Dubai Water Canal below - yours to drink in as you stroll through the successive rooms that make up the Penthouse Suite. The slick modern interior relies on mood lighting for ambience, while the enormous voile-draped four-poster in the master bedroom begs your best Instagram bed dive shot.
SUITE SPOTS 2019 WHAT Three Bedroom Presidential Suite with Private Pool WHERE Al Maha, A Luxury Collection Desert Resort & Spa, UAE WHY WE RATE IT Every inch of this desert retreat is a repository of handcrafted Arabian furnishings and artefacts that offer a peek into the past whilst delivering on 21st century luxury. Thoughtful touches include wildlife spotting binoculars and artist materials to capture the experience. Fair warning though, prince or president, you may end up being spied on in your private pool – the conservation reserve location is home to free-roaming gazelles and Arabian oryx.
WHAT Imperial Suite WHERE Waldorf Astoria Ras Al Khaimah, UAE WHY WE RATE IT Tinkle the ivories Ă la Elton John on your very own baby grand while a private chef whips up a gastronomic marvel, before rollerblading your way to bed across vast expanses of marble floored decadence in this two-floor home away from home. A snapshot of Art Deco-influenced New York grandeur mixed with Arabesque influences, the vertigo-inducing views from the glass-fronted balcony will make you swoon just as much as the gorgeous mother-ofpearl master bedroom headboard.
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SUITE SPOTS 2019
WHAT Penthouse Suite WHERE Four Seasons Hotel Dubai International Financial Centre, UAE WHY WE RATE IT With wow views of the city, Burj Khalifa included, this sophisticated suite is ideal for hot shots in town on business, with a dedicated office, large living and dining areas for entertaining, full marble bathroom and even a barber's chair for executive pampering.
WHAT Presidential Suite WHERE InterContinental Fujairah Resort, UAE WHY WE RATE IT An understated take on presidential luxury, whether on a romantic escape or with the whole clan in tow, this expanse of style ticks all the boxes. In addition to a large sea-facing terrace, the dressing room and walk-in closet is a bonus slice of glamour. WHAT Three Bedroom Palace Suite WHERE Emirates Palace, UAE WHY WE RATE IT Triple the luxury on a truly grand scale, this palatial residence is made up of not one but three connected Coral, Pearl and Diamond monikered suites. The sweet dreams choice of kings, presidents and celebs, we’re talking ultra-high ceilinged, silk-walled opulence all the way. Should you get lost finding your way to bed, a full retinue of helpful butlers will point you in the right direction. WHAT Premium Two Bedroom Villa with Private Pool WHERE The Oberoi Beach Resort, Al Zorah, Ajman, UAE WHY WE RATE IT It’s a case of eyes front for serious desert island castaway vibes the second 38 worldtravellermagazine.com
you step out onto your huge private deck where, beyond the 12-metre-long pool, the vista is decidedly tropical. No bearded Tom Hanks drama here though, with luxury in abundance from stunning interiors by minimalist architect Piero Lissoni (there’s even a working fireplace), craft-blended Oberoi toiletries and slinky silk bathrobes. WHAT The Royal Suite WHERE Burj Al Arab Jumeirah, UAE WHY WE RATE IT The sail-shaped hotel that was synonymous with Dubai way before Burj Khalifa broke ground, Burj Al Arab celebrates its 20th anniversary this year. Bed down in the fantastical 780-squaremetre Royal Suite where animal prints roar amidst a lush landscape of vibrant pinks and bedazzling gold. We particularly love the dramatic Scarlett O’Hara grand staircase and rotating pedestal bed that the Sun King himself would adore. WHAT Royal Suite WHERE One&Only Royal Mirage, Dubai, UAE WHY WE RATE IT It’s no surprise that in a hotel as architecturally iconic as this seashore legend, that its best suite is just as photogenic. If you’re a fan of hot pink, cool teal and gold galore, interspersed with Arabian flourishes and rich
embroidered fabrics, this will definitely hit the spot. Highlights include a Princess and the Pea-like canopied bed and balcony with Palm Jumeirah views.
WHAT WHAT Premium Deluxe Suite Two Bedroom Villa with Private WHERE Pool WHERE Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & The Spa, Oberoi UAE Beach Resort, Al Zorah, Ajman WHY WE RATE IT WHY No mirage WE RATE butITa five-star oasis in It’s the a case Dubaiofdesert eyes front hinterland, for serious rustic desert luxuryisland is thecastaway name of the vibes game the at second you thisstep Arabian out onto fort-styled your huge location. private deck Navigate where, your beyond way through the 12-metre-long the pool, maze the ofvista narrow is decidedly lanes andtropical. shaded No courtyards bearded Tom and you’ll Hanksbe drama rewarded here though with a with hideaway luxuryresidence in abundance laden from withstunning tranquilty. interiors Style wise by minimalist it's big on architect UAE heritage, Piero Lissoni with thick (there’s stone even walls, a working majlis seating, fireplace), andcraft hand-woven blended Oberoi rugs. toiletries Drink inand dune slinky views silk from bathrobes. a private terrace or patio, and be sure to take a dunk in the fabulous sunken bath at the end of the day.
A NEW GENERATION OF LUXURY.
Al Bateen Marina, PO box 127799, Abu Dhabi, UAE T +971 (0) 2 208 0000 reservations.auh@editionhotels.com www.editionhotels.com
WHAT Anantara Two Bedroom Beach Pool Villa WHERE Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort, UAE WHY WE RATE IT The resort’s popular overwater villas are unique to Dubai but the beach pool villa option transports you from the shores of the Arabian Gulf to exotic Asian lands with barefoot luxury in spades. Bifold patio doors open up the villa frontage onto a private terrace and infinity pool with its own chic dining sala, bordered by a lush green lawn and the beach mere steps beyond.
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SUITE SPOTS 2019 WHAT Two Bedroom Suite with Terrace WHERE Mandarin Oriental Jumeira, Dubai, UAE WHY WE RATE IT The newest kid on the Jumeirah strip, top-drawer suites are the order of the day but with the sea a sniff away it’s this rooftop terrace gem that takes the prize. Downstairs, chic living spaces include a six-person dining room and chilled lounge, but climb the wooden stairs for the best views in the house. WHAT Royal Suite WHERE Rosewood Jeddah, KSA WHY WE RATE IT The perfect pick for a private celebration and sleepover, this lavish Europeanstyled 487-square-metre duplex pad comes with its own cinema room and 12-seater dining table for a fun night in with family or friends. After you wave them off, soak in the double aspect Red Sea views from the sunken Jacuzzi bath, and then retire in ultra-high thread count king-sized luxury. WHAT Al Husn Specialty Suite WHERE Shangri-La Al Husn Resort & Spa, Muscat, Oman WHY WE RATE IT A surfeit of luxury awaits within the arched walls of this reinterpreted Arabian palace. Gaze out from your private terrace-based Jacuzzi over azure waters where a mythical Sinbad once sailed, and enjoy the sense of delightful selfimposed isolation. In fact, whether of the sea or beautiful stretch of sand, fabulous vistas come as standard here. WHAT Royal Suite WHERE Jumeirah Mina A’Salam, UAE WHY WE RATE IT The colour of royalty, purple accents this suite's richly dressed interiors, but it’s the exquisite terrace with its ornate mashrabiya shading and panoramic sea views that make you feel blue-blooded.
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By royal
appointment
Make a date to stay at Dubai's grandest address: the Royal Suite at Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach. Accessed by private elevator, over six thousand square feet of marble flooring reveals an unrivalled level of luxury ART DIRECTOR: KERRI BENNETT PHOTOGRAPHER: SABRINA-RYNAS, MMG ARTIST
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IDYLLIC INDIAN OCEAN
Towering columns and Venetian chandeliers define the splendour of the suite's dramatic living area
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Opposite Page Dress, Philipp Plein Heels, Christian Louboutin Below Dress Paule Ka
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A baby grand piano takes centre stage in the suite's palatial living area
Suit, Zendaya x Tommy Hilfiger Heels, Christian Louboutin Bag, Valextra Ring, Givenchy
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A stylish sanctuary resplendent in white marble and gold adornments, the master bathroom comes complete with an oversized oval tub, steam room, and double dressing rooms, and opens out to two perfectly private balconies. Elsewhere, decorative corridors lead to the suite's other attractions; a wood-panelled media room and spa/fitness area.
Dress, Givenchy Heels, Givenchy Bag, Christian Louboutin
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IDYLLIC INDIAN OCEAN
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Indian cuisine VIHIĂ RIH
Now Open From Mumbai to New Delhi, Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra, a pioneering contemporary Indian restaurant, has made its debut at the world’s tallest 5-star hotel. Join us and experience a one-of-a-kind signature 12-course menu! Open daily from 6pm until 11.30pm
JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE T +971.4.414.3000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com | masalalibrarydxb
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Postcards Stories from journeys far and wide
PORTOFINO p52 JORDAN p58 INDONESIA p64
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PORTOFINO
This page: The boat-lined harbour in Portofino Opposite page: Inside a suite at Hotel Splendido
Stephen Doig soaks up perfect views in glamorous Portofino
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ntroverts look away; no matter how unassuming you try to make your entrance, there is no low-key way to dock in Portofino harbour if arriving by the Itama Forty open cruiser boat. The handsome 13-metre vessel - gleaming glacial white against the cobalt Ligurian Sea - glides into the bustling harbour, throbbing with ferry boats throughout the high season, with the stealth of a great white shark. The boat, an Itama Forty named “Be Mine”, is part of the impressive fleet managed by AMM Charter, a local company based near Portofino which arranges boat tours along the coast, as far down as Cinque Terre. Inclement weather means conditions are tricky on the day we sail, but it's testament to the company’s commitment that not once do we feel anything but relaxed and looked after on its sun deck. Getting in to the harbour at Portofino is no small task: our driver has to negotiate a (highly glamorous) traffic jam of yachts and steer us in with “20 seconds” to get alight. It’s done with precision and grace, depositing us in the middle of Portofino’s glorious paintbox-hued harbour with more than a few glances. Splendid boats and people watching go hand-in-hand in Portofino, which since the 1950s has been synonymous with a kind of Italianate glamour. At the time of Cinecittà in Rome the matinee idols of the day would, in their downtime, take the winding, mountainous routes through Liguria to this little village on the coast. Elizabeth Taylor came to drink and debate diamonds with Richard Burton, Ava Gardner would take a suite over the harbour, Sophia Loren used the sand and saffron shades of the waterfront as inspiration for all her homes, Greta Garbo came to be alone and the Duke and Duchess of Windsor were photographed in exile on its cobbled streets. Of which there are scant few; the destination itself is tiny, with a warren of just a few vias spitting you into the harbour, but oh so beautiful. While it’s tempting to pull up a chair at La Gritta bar and watch life unfold, a host of experiences are on hand in the 54 worldtravellermagazine.com
PORTOFINO
Living room terrace of a Deluxe Suite at Hotel Splendido
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ELIZABETH TAYLOR CAME TO DRINK AND DEBATE DIAMONDS WITH RICHARD BURTON, AVA GARDNER WOULD TAKE A SUITE OVER THE HARBOUR
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region to lend a deeper understanding of the culture of this stretch of Italy. The Ligurian coast may be less renowned than Amalfi, but it’s spellbinding in its own way; the landscape is more rugged and less manicured, the bays less populated and driven by tourism. We get a sense of that when the Itama Forty glides into the inlet of San Fruttuoso in less than smooth conditions. The weather has been blustery all day, and in less assured hands we would have given up hope of making it to the bay that’s only reachable by boat or down a stone path, but the cruiser eases in gently and deftly as the waves crash. If Portofino is the dashing playboy, San Fruttuoso is his more unassuming but perhaps more soulful - little brother. Beyond the pine tree-strewn headland at Portofino (past a cluster of palazzos belonging to Messrs Dolce & Gabbana), the bay's 10th-century abbey overlooks a shingle beach (whereas in Portofino, Chanel is the church that greets you), with restaurants built into the rocks. If you’re particularly adventurous, a dive below the surface reveals a ghostly apparition: Christ of the Abyss. The 8ft statue of Christ with his arms outstretched has rested on the seafloor here since 1954, to mark the spot where pioneering Italian diver Dario Gonzatti lost his life. On a clear day, it’s visible beneath the green-blue waters, but it's too choppy for us to explore. From the boat, we see just a shimmering - slightly threatening - mass beneath the waves. Back on board after a lunch of the local pesto Genovese, the boat cuts across the worldtravellermagazine.com 55
This page: The pool at Hotel Spendido Opposite page: Poached lobster
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PORTOFINO
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SPLENDID BOATS AND PEOPLE WATCHING GO HANDIN-HAND IN PORTOFINO
Credit: Stephen Doig / The Telegraph / The Interview People
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waves to take in the Ligurian coastline and the Alps in the background. Our guide, the owner of AMM Charter, Anna provides fascinating commentary alongside drinks and nibbles - about the astonishing grand palazzos we see. We drift past the sprawling gardens and neo-gothic grandeur of the 18thcentury Villa Durazzo, built by renowned botanist Clelia Durazzo Grimaldi, and the Cervara Abbey on the Tigullio Gulf, its name derived from the the Latin “Silvaria” for woods, a nod to the knot of forests that dot the coast. Far more scurrilous in history is the Italianate wedding cake of a castle, Bonomi-Bolchini, which sticks out on a headland; it is the sumptuous holiday home of Berlusconi. In between the cultural highlights, the Itama Forty drops anchor in calmer waters to allow for a dip; pillowy towels and refreshments await as we emerge. After a day's bay-hopping, it’s time to stretch the sea legs. We head up the winding path to the spiceshaded grandeur of the Splendido
Hotel. If Portofino is the fizz in the bellini, then this grand contessa is its peach puree: the destination’s glamour stems from the Splendido’s steady roll call of MGM starlets that have stalked its marble hallways. Situated in the hills overlooking the bay, the former monastery was purchased by the fabulously titled Baron Baratta in the early 1900s, and later transformed into a hotel. The icons of the day came flocking. Staying here is like stepping into a 1950s Fellini film; the decor is traditional but not dated, and the service wonderfully old school; whitejacketed waiters discreetly top up your water poolside, or ask in the politest terms whether they might have the honour of polishing your sunglasses. The hotel’s rooms look out over the harbour, private balconies are studded with fragrant, blushshaded pelargoniums, and as the sky fades to coral the soundtrack of corks popping and music rise from the La Terrazza restaurant.
There the food - much like the interior design - is classic but done to perfection. A dish of local lobster is buttery and feather-light. A plate of taglierini arrives encased in a dome of shaved black truffle, perhaps the most decadent edible cloche in existence. Soon the guests - all of whom have made the effort to dress for dinner - drift towards the Piano Bar, where waiters double as entertainers, taking the mic to sing Tu Vuo Fa L’Americano. Guests twirl across the marble floors to dance, watched over by black and white photos of the starlets who’ve done the same in this very room. The scene is like a vignette of a bygone era. Should the sense of languor seem a tad indulgent, the Splendido also arranges local experiences. The hotel's second site is more boutique; a smaller iteration called the Splendido Mare, it's nestled in the hubbub of the main harbour, a 10-minute walk (via red carpet, naturally) from the hilltop main building. Its Ava Gardner suite is named after the actress - she preferred the bustle of activity here. And it's in the Mare's more informal Chuflay restaurant that a pesto-making tutorial takes diners on a fascinating tour through the particulars of local produce (generic basil doesn’t quite cut it, for example, it has to be the finer, more peppery Ligurian variety infused with the salt from the sea air). The hotel’s concierge can also arrange a tour of a local sustainable farm or a visit to some local wine cellars. The Amalfi coast may be one of the most Instagrammed of Italian summer destinations, but Liguria has a charm and allure all of its own. Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com
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JORDAN CRETE
A sense of place A foodie tour offers first-time visitors to the Middle East a chance to enjoy age-old traditions and renowned hospitality in dramatic Jordan
This page: A starry night lights up a camp in Wadi Rum Opposite: A guide dressed in traditional keffiyeh
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THERE WAS A COLLECTIVE GASP OF AMAZEMENT AT THE ROSE-HUED TREASURY, CARVED INTO A SANDSTONE ROCK FACE
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shapes and sizes, plump and withered, and wafts of cardamom-scented coffee drew me into Izhiman’s store, a treasure trove of fragrant herbs and spices. On our first evening together as a group we walked from our downtown hotel to the Amman institution, Hashem. The authentic dishes at this no-frills restaurant, opened in 1952, are as popular with Jordanian royalty and celebrities as with local families, and soon our outdoor table, sandwiched between two buildings, was laden with simple and delicious mezze. We ripped off hunks of khubz, the ubiquitous flatbread, to dip into olive oil-doused hummus and ful mudammas, then tucked into stuffed falafel, with with unbelievably fluffy centres wrapped in a crisp, sesame-crusted shell. Down the road at the equally venerated, yet cupboard-sized patisserie Habibah, founded in the 1950s by two Palestinian brothers, the queue snaked round the block, everyone waiting to get their hands on some calorie-laden kanafeh, a salty cheese pastry treat drenched in sugar syrup and sprinkled with crushed pistachios. Mohammed recited the Jordanian adage: “Even when you’re full, you can still always eat 40 more bites of food.” The next day, after stopping for a dip in the Dead Sea, we were back in the minibus and on the road to Jordan’s greatest treasure, Petra. The once-thriving Nabataean capital grew rich from the frankincense trade that stretched across Arabia, and as we entered the colossal site there was a collective gasp of amazement as the rose-hued Treasury, carved into a
sandstone rock face, appeared through the Siq canyon’s narrow opening. Away from the crowds, we followed Mohammed up 600 stairs to the High Place of Sacrifice and, stunned by the sheer scale of the ancient site, looked down on ant-sized people milling around its magnificent rock tombs and caves. These were home to the Bedouin when the city lay undiscovered by everyone else for five centuries. The Bedouin may have swapped tents and caves for houses now, but their renowned sense of hospitality remains and, having notched up about 30,000 steps exploring Petra, that evening we left our shoes at the door when we paid a visit to a local family. The affable Amnah welcomed us into her living room to sit Bedouin-style on the floor. This time mansaf was on the menu, the country’s national dish and the one served at every special celebration. With strong Bedouin roots, the filling dish was originally just goat’s meat and broth, but it has evolved into a rich mix of lamb cooked in jameed — dried balls of fermented goat’s milk yoghurt — spread over a bed of rice and paper-thin shrak bread, which takes hours to prepare. Sitting round enormous communal platters, we were encouraged to eat with our right hands. Mohammed showed us how to use the rice to mop up the sauce, deftly rolling it with meat into a small ball before popping it into his mouth. The skull of the sheep sat in the middle of the food. “If there’s no head, then your guests are not invited from the heart,” explained Amnah. “And if guests touch the head, they’re hinting that we haven’t served enough.” The next morning Mohammed introduced us to Shuaib, an Englishspeaking Bedouin guide dressed in a dishdash and a red-and-white headscarf. He joined us on the drive to a rose-tinged rocky plain just north of Petra, where we were led to a tent, outside which a couple crouched beside a campfire. Shuaib made a guttural call and we were suddenly surrounded by floppyeared goats, their loud bleats echoing across the valley as they began tugging at the tufts of green dotted across the otherwise parched landscape. Traditionally nomadic, Bedouins move with their animal herds for grazing
Credit: Sarah Gilbert / The Times / News Licensing
he setting sun was painting the sandstone mountains gold, red and purple by turns when we arrived at our simple tented camp in the stark and wildly beautiful Wadi Rum. We had spent hours bouncing around the desert landscape in a Jeep, stopping frequently to scramble up wind-sculpted sand dunes, scale natural rock arches and marvel at ancient Nabataean graffiti. Now the day was turning a different kind of beautiful, and excitement was building over the prospect of a desert nightfall with some spectacular stargazing. It almost matched our anticipation for the mouthwatering dinner that would soon be served, once it had finished cooking underground. We were in the domain, and care, of the Bedouin, whose method of cooking zarb — essentially Bedouin barbecue — has barely changed for centuries. A metal drum filled with glowing embers is lowered into a hole in the sand, followed by a two-tier tray heaped with goat’s meat and vegetables. Covered and left to slowcook for hours, it emerges in a cloud of steam with meat that melts off the bone. This meal was sure to be a culinary highlight of Jordan Real Food Adventure, and all of our group of 11 (the majority solo travellers) relished the feast when it arrived. Afterwards we sat by the campfire under a broad swathe of the Milky Way drinking cups of Bedouin “whisky” — tea blended with sage, cardamom and wild mint — while our hosts pointed out the constellations. In a country famed for its monuments and dramatic landscapes, a tour focusing on Jordan’s food gave a new access point for understanding the land and its ways. At the welcome meeting in Amman our seasoned guide, Mohammed, explained that Jordan is a melting pot of cultures with a cuisine to match: national eating habits have been shaped by invaders and neighbours, from the Ottomans to the British, its Levantine neighbours, as well as the Bedouin themselves. I had got a taste of what was to come while wandering the chaotic alleyways of Amman’s Souk el-Khodra. Stalls piled high with flat peaches and white mulberries spilt into those devoted to dates of all
JORDAN
This page, clockwise from above: Heading into the Dead Sea; a glass of traditional tea; mezze served at a local restaurant; sweet and sticky kanafeh served with honey
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CRETE
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JORDAN IS A MELTING POT OF CULTURES WITH A CUISINE TO MATCH
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JORDAN Opposite: Wadi Rum This page: Peeking through to the Treasury in Petra
and Shuaib explained how their food is designed for a life on the move — jameed lasts for months if made right, and a ghee-like clarified butter mixed with antibacterial wild herbs can last up to a year when stored in a goatskin. Suddenly Shuaib lunged at a goat and the black-robed goat owner, Sara, swiftly knelt down and began to milk her, nimble fingers aiming the frothy liquid into a kettle, so that our alfresco breakfast — including mashrou, za’atar, crumbly goat’s cheese and sweet and sticky date syrup — was washed down with a Bedouin shepherd’s take on a chai latte, the goat’s milk infused with aromatic germander. Back in Amman, after our stay in Wadi Rum, we visited Beit Sitti — “my grandmother’s house” — a hands-on cooking school and social project rolled into one. Begun eight years ago by three sisters who wanted to keep their grandmother’s house and memory alive, it is filled with her family photographs, and copper pots and plates from Damascus. It also creates employment for local women. During the class there was no talk of measurements. Instead the ebullient Jude Mseis ordered us to get our hands dirty, to feel the texture of the pitta dough that her assistant, Umbayan, was kneading like a machine. We learnt how to rustle up mouttabal. However, the main event was maqluba. We started by putting the “sacrificial tomatoes” on the bottom of a giant metal pot, then chicken “pretty side down” and lightly fried cauliflower and aubergine, topped by rice boiled in such a heady mix of spices that even the professional chef among us couldn’t guess them all. Once the meal had been cooked, a strong volunteer offered to flip the pot on to a platter, but it slipped and for an instant everyone held their breath — was our dinner about to end up on the terrace’s tiled floor? With biceps bulging, he righted it and our layered masterpiece was revealed. To a soundtrack of competing muezzin, we sat down to enjoy the feast of Jordanian flavours that we had helped to create. “Betti bettak, my house is your house,” said Jude, which seemed to sum up our trip perfectly. Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com worldtravellermagazine.com 63
INDONESIA Ora Beach Eco Resort, Seram
Sulawesi and the Spice Islands. Never heard of them? These Indonesian idylls have been off-grid — until now, thanks to new flights. Alex Robinson heads off in pursuit of paradise
Twice as Spice 64 World worldtravellermagazine.com Traveller
INDONESIA
blame David Attenborough — swimming over reefs teeming with fish, trekking through an Indonesian paradise and sharing it all those years ago in whispered intimacy. And explorer-filmmaker Lawrence Blair, whose encounters with mysterious shamans enthralled me as a boy. I can still picture him in one episode of his Ring of Fire series, hitch-hiking on black-sailed pirate rigs to places right out of Sinbad stories: Sulawesi, the Spice Islands... Mouthwatering names, so exotic you could almost taste them. They obsessed me. Growing up, I read about cliffs filled with mummies, hornbills as big as eagles and nutmeg-scented forests. And I longed to get to Sulawesi and the Spice Islands, far away on the edge of Indonesia in a preternatural tropical Eden. As a backpacker I made it as far as Bali and found busy bars and beaches and a local travel agent who laughed in my face. Sulawesi and the Spice Islands were weeks away, he said. On boats that never sailed. But those boyhood images endured. And now, decades later, they were about to become real. The Pacific Ocean below the plane wing was lightening from blue to Treasure Island turquoise. There were ribbons of white beach, inky-green forest, rippling mountains. I was about to land in Sulawesi. My heart was thumping. What had changed? Prosperity. Indonesians now travel. And cheap internal flights with Garuda, the national airline, meant Sulawesi and the Spice Islands were easily accessed. I chose my destinations carefully - maximum exoticism with easy access. I’d visit Toraja, an ancient mountain kingdom in the Sulawesi highlands, for tribal villages and shamans à la Lawrence Blair. Then I’d fly to Seram, one of the largest and, I’d heard, most pristine of the Spice Islands, for Attenborough-style clove-scented forests and coral reefs. On arrival in Sulawesi, heady with excitement, I was met by a crisply dressed young local Torajan with designer jeans and a white-toothed smile. ‘Henrik,’ he said with a firm handshake. That’s a Swedish name, I thought, as we drove away from the airport on a highway whizzing with motorbikes worldtravellermagazine.com 65
INDONESIA
and lined with toothpaste ads. It looked very urban. Then Henrik asked me which Premier League football team I supported. And I felt my boyhood dreams crushed. I was like a Chinese tourist coming to Britain in search of gents in bowler hats. The exotic, I thought, as I checked into my chain hotel, is long gone from Sulawesi. But I was wrong. The next morning we left urbanity for tiny roads and hairpin bends that wound into thick forest. We reached a ridge top, unloaded our bags, and waved goodbye to the driver. ‘Welcome to the real Toraja,’ said Henrik. This is it, I thought, my Lawrence Blair moment, my mountain hike to those magical villages in search of shamans and hanging coffins. But before we set off, Henrik gave me a moment to take in the view. Brilliant-green rice paddies dropped in shimmering, water-filled pools to valleys wispy with morning mist. Hamlets sprinkled the slopes. Dutch-style churches sat at their heart and, clustered around their belltowers, were the oddest houses I’ve ever seen — long wooden rectangles topped with concave roofs that dipped low before curving steeply upwards to high gables. They looked like sail-less junks abandoned in the hills by a retreating flood. A three-hour walk on a sinuous, scenic path brought us into the heart of a village. And the houses looked even stranger up close. Under the curved eaves, the buildings were covered in intricate red, white and black carvings: wheel-like mandalas, swirling spirals and stylised horned cattle masks. In front were fivemetre-tall totem poles, stacked high with the skulls of buffaloes. A little boy waved to us and grinned from a window. The day thickened into golden afternoon as we walked on. An eagle soared overhead, and a group of women in conical hats called us down to a rice paddy, giggling as they posed for photographs. We reached another village. At its entrance was a cliff face as tall as a block of flats, just like I’d seen on TV as a boy. It was pocked with gouged-out holes, sealed with round hobbit-like doors. Some were fronted with painted wooden mannequins - models of the dead within, wearing their old clothes. And there were more buffalo skulls.
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THE SPICE ISLANDS AND SULAWESI WERE AS MOUTHWATERING AS THEY HAD SEEMED IN MY CHILDHOOD
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That night I slept in a village longhouse scented with wood smoke, under a dome of stars. And I dreamt of the spirits of the dead. When I woke, the village was busy with people arriving on foot and in little minivans. Henrik was smiling. ‘You wanted Torajan magic,’ he said, winking. ‘So I found you a funeral.’ The arriving guests were all in high spirits, laughing, slapping each other on the back, embracing. It felt more like a wedding feast than a wake. Many were carrying squealing pigs trussed to bamboo poles. There were tourists, too — a small group of French and some intrepid Italian backpackers. We converged on a grassy square lined with more longhouses. A brightly painted cylindrical coffin sat in front of the largest, on a carved dais. Villagers packed the square. Henrik handed me a sarong and a peaked temple headband. I should change; this was a sacred event. I did so and sat with the other visitors on bamboo mats, among smiling Torajans. A splutter, a crackle and a DJ-deep voice boomed over loudspeakers. I traced it to a man in glittering sunglasses with slickedback hair. He was sitting at the front of the biggest house, facing the coffin. ‘He’s half shaman, half compere,’ Henrik told me. ‘And he’s speaking ceremonial Torajan, telling us about the life of the lady in the coffin.’ The shaman cooed into the microphone, and then his timbre changed, becoming more reverential, priestly. ‘Now he’s making spells, asking us to pray for her spirit in its journey into the afterlife. And to pray for her guide.’ Henrik pointed to a buffalo tied to a wooden post.
This page, clockwise from top left: A row of traditional wooden houses in Sulawesi; women in traditional dress at a funeral celebration; burial effigy figures; Sulawesi's landscape
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‘The buffalo’s spirit will accompany her.’ A young man with a long knife walked out in front of the crowds. The shamanic master of ceremonies bellowed out his name, as if he were a wrestler or champion toreador. Then the knifeman danced before the buffalo. The animal lurched away. He danced again, swerved past the swinging horns, swooped and struck with one sweeping, surgical cut to the throat. I flinched and looked away. By the time I turned back, the animal was dead. The French were open-mouthed. The Italians white. And before we had time to reconcile our emotions, the carcass was gone. Carried away to be butchered. ‘Everyone will eat - the rich family who bought the buffalo and the poorest members of the village. And us, too,’ smiled Henrik. Steaming plates would arrive less than an hour later - the meat barbecued with flame-throwers. ‘At the funeral feast nothing goes to waste.’ It was extraordinary: the kitschy compere DJ, the modern booming sound system, the village fete hubbub and flame-throwers and, at its heart, something as ancient and primordial as the wicker man. It wasn’t what I’d expected from my boyhood Lawrence Blair dreams, but it was every bit as exotic. And the David Attenborough forests, the limpid reefs - would I find them in Seram, or something different again? What, in fact, would Seram bring? Beauty, was my answer. Sheer beauty. From the minute I landed and began the drive to the north coast with my new guide, Victor. In much of Asia, forests have been logged, re-growing in tangles of vines. But here there were giant trees, pinked with wild gingers and dripping with bromeliads. Critically endangered, night-black crested macaque monkeys crouched grinning 68 worldtravellermagazine.com
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THE JUNGLE STEAMED WITH RISING CLOUDS THAT MELTED INTO THE RAINBOWCURVED AIR IN THE SUNLIGHT
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by the road. We climbed high over the island’s central spine and hit a rain storm that pummelled like a power shower, diminishing into jelly-bean-sized splats as we dropped down the other side. Victor suddenly stopped, rushed off and came back laden with apricot-like fruit. He split one open revealing a dark seed surrounded by pink mesh. The car filled with a sweet, spicy perfume. Nutmeg. An old speedboat took us towards a stretch of Seram’s coast only accessible by sea. The turquoise rapidly darkened into deep-blue Pacific. As we left the shore I could see the nutmeg mountains we’d climbed over - a jagged wall dropping almost sheer into the sea. The jungle steamed with rising clouds that melted into the rainbow-curved air in the sunlight. We rounded a cape to find another breathtaking scene: limestone cliffs falling to a honey beach. I could make out a tiny figure flip-flopping across the sand to a palm-thatch cabin set on stilts over aquamarine coral sea. The Ora resort. My destination. I passed the afternoon lazing on my cabin’s deck, watching fish playing at my feet. Turtles surfaced for air. Fishermen cast nets. One threw a spear - to catch a blue marlin, I learnt
later. In the far distance, a long canoe carried schoolchildren back to their fishing village, past the dome of a distant mosque surrounded by palm trees. I spent days eating, reading and swimming over reefs every bit as pristine, I was sure, as the one that had filled me with wonder and envy when I watched David Attenborough all those years ago. Nemo clownfish guarded anemones, big shoals of military-looking jacks cruised beyond the drop-off, and a gang of pink and ultramarine hump-head parrotfish, each as big as a mastiff, chewed and scraped the coral, spitting out mouthfuls of sand from their beak-like mouths. On my final day, Victor took me along the Salawai river a bit further up the coast from the resort. We passed small settlements where families dried cloves in the baking sun, filling the air with heavy scent. Children pummelled cut palm trees, washing them to leave a demerara-brown paste: sago, the semolina-like stuff of school-pudding legend. Then we were back in the wild forest. And there were the hornbills, eagle-large and floating from tree to tree, and a cuscus - a little marsupial bear, curled round an upper branch. The air was scented with forest flowers, sea salt and a hint of sun-dried cloves. It was bliss. The Spice Islands and Sulawesi were as mouthwatering as they had seemed in my childhood. And yet they were exotic in a way I never could have imagined: that fabulous fusion of the ancient and kitschy contemporary in Toraja, the sago-palm river and nutmeg forests of Seram. And I’d only skimmed through: Sulawesi is nearly as big as Britain, and there are more than a thousand Spice Islands. Were my dreams fulfilled? Not at all. I dreamt of more. Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com
Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing
INDONESIA
INDONESIA Palm trees line the beach at Labengki Island in Sulawesi
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AROUND THE WORLD IN 60 YEARS
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Weekends Staycations and short-haul escapes
THE HIGH LIFE Seeking a fresh perspective on the Maldives? The latest addition to Soneva Fushi's Private Residences villa collection, the five-bedroom Villa 37 on the sunrise side of the island, tips the desirability scales with its crowning glory - an 11-metre-tall viewing tower offering panoramic views of the lush surrounds. Ascend the winding staircase to the open-air platform for dinner under the stars. The height of luxury.
worldtravellermagazine.com 71
WEEKENDS
Reasons to go back to…
LA MER
Take a deeper dive into this 2.5-kilometre-long stretch of waterfront, which has welcomed a new wave of must-dos A room with a view Perfect for families, the private cabana-style Sea Breeze Day Rooms provide respite for those seeking a little comfort with their sun, sea and sand. The stilted wooden chalets can house up to four people and have air-conditioning, comfy seating to park yourself on, a mini fridge, private terrace, sunbeds, towels and an umbrella for extra shade. From Dhs600 for four people (all those who book get 20% off at selected eateries and shops at La Mer).
Asian District
Bazaar bites Ever tasted Uyghur cuisine? Neither had we until OSH opened earlier this year, serving delicacies from the grill alongside authentic Central Asian dishes with a modern twist (the hammour and shrimp manti is a signature choice). Grab a spot on the upper deck for panoramic views of the beachfront. Open from 10am until midnight. Cool runnings Laguna Waterpark’s new FIT HUB is currently the coolest spot in town for an al fresco workout. The region’s first fully serviced outdoor fitness studio (a team effort by the waterpark and Fitness in DXB), offers a variety of instructor-led workouts including boot camps, yoga, boxing, and dance classes, on top of functional workouts. Plus, if you go on a weekday you’ll get free access to the waterpark so you can splash, slide and surf your way around all the attractions before cooling down in style at the swim-up juice bar. From Dhs99 per class.
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Dinner and a movie Take a break from shoreline fun and frolics, grab a giant tub of popcorn and catch the latest film releases at the boutique Roxy Cinemas, which has joined the party here. Take a seat in the bistro lounge while the team sorts your tickets and takes your food order (think gourmet treats such as chicken burgers, flatbreads, and indulgent desserts). After you’ve polished off your starter, the rest will be delivered direct to your reclining cinema seat.
long weekend
Budapest
the
Sliced in two by the Danube, Hungary’s capital has history, culture and fun in spades
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THE LONG WEEKEND
With its riverside setting and grand architecture, Budapest can lay claim to being one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Blessed with a vibrant café culture, an abundance of thermal springs and luxury hotels that won’t break the bank, spend a long weekend here and you’ll soon be plotting your return.
Home to more than two million people, Budapest is a city of two halves – Buda and Pest – which sit on opposite sides of the Danube River and are connected by a series of bridges. Settled by the Romans during the 1st century, sacked by the Mongols in 1241 and captured by the Ottomans in 1541, the city experienced its golden age during the 19th century as part of the AustroHungarian Empire. Since the fall of Communism in 1989, Budapest has evolved into one of Europe’s most popular city break destinations. In Buda, you’ll find some of the city’s best thermal spas and the must-visit Castle Hill, home to the Royal Palace and Fisherman’s Bastion viewing terrace. Meanwhile, over in Pest, you can ogle Art Nouveau buildings and Hungary’s neo-Gothic Parliament, and explore hip cafés and restaurants. Read on for our curated collection of the hottest hotels, coolest restaurants and only-in-Budapest experiences to enjoy…
STYLISH SLEEPS From grand dames to design-led digs, here are the best places to stay in the Hungarian capital
Opposite: Budapest illuminated by night, with a view of the Hungarian Parliament Building and the Széchenyi Chain Bridge on the River Danube This page top to bottom: Matthias Church, Hotel Clark
In a neo-classical building in Pest, the music-themed Aria Hotel (ariahotelbudapest. com) has floors dedicated to genres like jazz and opera, while each of the 48 rooms pay homage to a different artist. There’s a cracking rooftop terrace, modern Hungarian restaurant and subterranean spa.
Dating back to 1896, Corinthia Budapest (corinthia.com) is similarly grand, with a sweeping staircase, six-storey glass atrium and 412 impeccably styled rooms. Dine at one of four restaurants and book a treatment in the beautifully restored Art Deco spa.
Next to the State Opera House, Callas House (callashouse.com) mixes Art Deco and Art Nouveau styles to stunning effect. There are just 25 rooms with dark wood panelling, muted tones and subway-tiled bathrooms, along with an atmospheric café-restaurant on the ground floor.
Across the river, the adults-only Hotel Clark (hotelclarkbudapest.hu) is just steps from the Chain Bridge and Castle Hill funicular. The views are fabulous, especially from the rooftop terrace and riverfront rooms, while the buzzy Beefbar restaurant was imported from Monaco. worldtravellermagazine.com 75
retail therapy
This page from top to bottom: Széchenyi Thermal Bath; Áeron; Hungarian Parliament Building Opposite, from top: Kollázs; Gerbeaud Café
Looking to take home an authentic slice of the city? Make tracks to these top shops. Áeron. Born into a family of tailors, designer Eszter Áron has won many fans with her clean, yet feminine silhouettes. Drop by the showroom in District V to stock up on asymmetrical dresses, high-waisted jumpsuits and stylish handbags. aeron.hu
Tisza Cipő. For retro trainers that will never go out of style, check out this cult ’70s footwear brand. Choose from a range of colours with the trademark ‘T’ logo, or go full oldschool with a pair of high-tops. tiszacipo.com Paloma. Housed in the courtyard of a 19thcentury building, this design collective is a great place to discover up-and-coming talent. Shop for jewellery, clothing, artworks and more from around 40 young designers and artists. palomabudapest.hu 76 worldtravellermagazine.com
BATH TIME Take a relaxing dip in the thermal pools Known as the City of Spas, more than 100 thermal springs lie beneath Budapest. ‘Taking the waters’ has been a popular activity since Roman times, with the mineral waters said to soothe all manner of ailments. GELLÉRT BATHS. With its temple-like thermal pools, this Art Nouveau gem offers one of the
most beautiful bathing experiences in town. Wallow in the thermal baths, which range in temperature from 35°C to 40°C, and relax in the colonnaded indoor swimming pool and outdoor wave pool. SZECHENYI BATHS. In a buttercup yellow neoBaroque building in City Park, this sprawling complex is home to a dozen indoor thermal baths, three outdoor pools and multiple saunas and steam
rooms. In winter, you’ll see locals playing chess in the water as clouds of steam rise into the cold air. VELI BEJ BATHS. The city’s oldest Ottomanera spa bathing complex dates back to 1575 and is less touristy than others. It features five thermal pools of varying temperatures – including an octagonal pool beneath a beautiful dome – and a cluster of saunas and steam rooms.
instagrammable architecture A melting pot of architectural styles, Budapest is one of the most photogenic cities in Europe. Make Parliament your first port of call; its Gothic exterior was inspired by London’s Palace of Westminster. Stroll over to Szabadság tér (Liberty Square) and snap the sumptuous Art Nouveau façade of the Royal Postal Savings Bank, before continuing on to Andrássy Street to gawp at the neoRenaissance Hungarian State Opera House, decorated with statues of opera greats such as Puccini, Mozart and Liszt. Finish up at Liszt Music Academy, an Art Nouveau wonder with colourful frescoes and a spectacular organ.
THE LONG WEEKEND
HOT TABLES Hungarian cuisine offers more than goulash – get set to explore the exciting dining scene KOLLÁZS With interiors inspired by the 1920s, this contemporary brasserie in the Four Seasons Hotel serves acclaimed Hungarian and French cuisine. Try the signature octopus and scallops with potato paprikash. kollazs.hu BORKONYHA Don’t let the casual bistro vibe fool you: this Michelin-starred spot serves artfully plated Hungarian dishes. Savour mains such as lamb with stuffed cabbage, or opt for the five-course tasting menu. borkonyha.hu BARACK & SZILVA Book ahead for this friendly neighbourhood bistro, which serves Central European classics such as chicken paprika and goulash soup. Traditional cimbalom folk music only adds to the charm. barackesszilva.hu
a perfect day
Words: Lara Brunt Photo of Zsófi Barabás by Dániel Németh
Artist Zsófi Barabás (zsofibarabas.net) takes us on a tour of her hometown “In the middle of the Danube, Margaret Island is a relaxing place with two swimming pools and a small zoo, so a lap around the 5km running track makes a nice start to the day. Then hop on Tram 2, which starts on the Pest side of Margaret Bridge, for the best views of the city as you trundle alongside the Danube. Get off at the Palace of Arts (mupa.hu), home to the Ludwig Museum (ludwigmuseum. hu) where you can browse the collection of contemporary art. Head back to Liberty Bridge, cross the river and walk up Gellért Hill, topped by Liberty Statue, for panoramic views. Then stroll down to Béla Bartók street, stopping at Hadik (hadik.eu) or Kelet Café (facebook.com/ keletkavezo) for lunch, before checking out the latest art exhibition at Faur Zsófi Gallery (galeriafaur.hu), which showcases local contemporary artists (including myself). For dinner, head to Két Szerecsen (ketszerecsen.hu), my go-to restaurant whenever I return from abroad. There are weekly specials, but I recommend the duck breast with creamy savoy cabbage.”
CAFE CULTURE
Just like Vienna, Budapest is famous for its cafés. They thrived during the 19th century, with more than 400 coffee houses across the city, and you can still sample a slice of history – and a carameltopped Dobos torte – at one of its old-school establishments. Afternoon tea at the New York Café (newyorkcafe.hu) evokes turn-of-the-century opulence, with its marble columns, gilded stucco and dapper waiters. Just as glamorous is the chandelier-lit Gerbeaud Café (gerbeaud.hu), where you can savour delectable sweets like Esterházy slice (walnut cake filled with vanilla cream) in damaskdraped salons. The warm, wood-panelled Central (centralkavehaz. hu), meanwhile, was once a magnet for writers and poets; slide into a tan-leather booth
and treat yourself to the Baroque Breakfast for two. It’s not all grand and gilded coffee houses, though. Budapest has also seen a new generation of hipsterfriendly cafés where you can sip singleorigin espressos and silky-smooth flat whites. Local favourites include
The Goat Herder (thegoatherder.hu), with beans from a local roastery, My Little Melbourne (mylittlemelbourne. hu), a brew bar specialising in filtered coffee, and Espresso Embassy (espressoembassy. hu), with cakes and pastries as delicious as their drinks.
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WORLD TRAVELLER X DCT ABU DHABI
THREE WAYS TO EXPERIENCE ABU DHABI...
Cultural overload Photo: Qasr Al Watan
Step back in time and look to the future with a trio of city landmarks that celebrate Abu Dhabi's rich heritage and unbridled ambition
1
Qasr Al Watan. It’s not often the doors of a presidential palace are opened to the masses, and Abu Dhabi’s newest cultural destination takes visitors behind the veil of UAE governance. Take a guided tour through the palace’s lofty marble halls from The Great Hall and House of Knowledge to a library housing 50,000 prized tomes and the Spirit of Collaboration chamber, where UAE Cabinet meetings take place. This fascinating experience ends with a light and sound show projected onto the building's iconic façade.
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2
Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. An architectural marvel capped with 82 gleaming white domes and bordered by four soaring minarets, its design captures Islamic motifs from different Muslim civilisations. One of the city's top tourist attractions, visitors from all over the world come to wander by its reflective pools, gawp at the world's largest (Swarovskiencrusted) chandelier and hand-knotted carpet, and be amazed at the sight of the central prayer hall and space for 40,000 worshippers.
3
Louvre Abu Dhabi. The art anchor of Saadiyat Cultural District, this is the first universal museum outboard of France. The 9,200sqm Jean Nouveldesigned building is as unique as the collection it houses with its distinctive silvery lace dome the crowning glory. A growing corpus of works of historical, cultural and sociological significance currently includes paintings by Vincent van Gogh and Claude Monet alongside a treasure trove of global artefacts dating back 400 years or more.
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WORLD TRAVELLER X THE ST. REGIS ABU DHABI
STAYCATION
The St. Regis Abu Dhabi Take your stay to new heights at this family-friendly property in the heart of the city THE ROOMS & SUITES Blending authentic Arabian hospitality with more than a century of bespoke St. Regis tradition, this hospitality haven located on Abu Dhabi Corniche lures families with its plush rooms and signature Butler Service. For a quintessential family stay, book a Superior Room, or go all out by reserving a signature suite with a connecting room so there's plenty of space for all.
THE FOOD There's an impressive number of dining experiences to enjoy, including this month's Chocolate Afternoon Tea offering bespoke infusions and indulgent nibbles, with lucky charm milkshakes for the little ones. An enduring favourite, the Family Friday Brunch in The Terrace on the Corniche restaurant is a must-do, with wow features including live stations and separate rooms for dessert and cheese.
THE ACTIVITIES Take a stroll to Nation Riviera Beach Club and unwind in a cabana along the 200 metre private beach. Next, take a dip in the infinity pool before steering your energetic mini-mes towards the Treasure Island Children’s Club. Once they're settled, you can safely deposit yourself at Remède Spa for the skin smoothing Gold & Pearls Body Ceremony, which will leave your complexion shimmering with gold.
To find out more, call +971 2 694 4444 or visit stregisabudhabi.com 82 worldtravellermagazine.com
Abu Dhabi’s Finest Urban Resort The St. Regis Abu Dhabi soars to new heights of splendour and service beyond expectation. Located at the vibrant heart of Abu Dhabi with a 200 metre stretch of pristine beach, overlooking the turquoise waters of the Arabian Gulf which is home to the Nation Riviera Beach Club at the finest address in the city.
Š2019 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, St. Regis and their logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates.
The St. Regis Abu Dhabi Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates t. +971 2 694 4444 stregisabudhabi.com
Stay exquisite at more than 40 St. Regis hotels and resorts worldwide. @stregishotels
WORLD TRAVELLER X FAIRMONT BAB AL BAHR, ABU DHABI
STAYCATION
Fairmont Bab Al Bahr, Abu Dhabi Picture perfect in every respect, this stunning waterfront hotel will refresh body and mind THE ROOMS & SUITES Floor to ceiling vistas of Abu Dhabi Creek and Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque are reason alone to stay a night or two, and we recommend springing for a One Bedroom suite for the 'bath with a view' experience. The interiors bring the outside in, embracing an organic theme with marble, walnut wood panelling and bamboo flower inspired soft furnishings that are effortlessly chic.
THE FOOD With 10 dining venues to please the palate, foodies will be in their element. Feel the Latin vibe at Puesta de Sol where tasty tapas, live music and signature drinks make this beach-facing venue a must-do. Maison Beirut takes French inspired glamour and Lebanese culinary tradition to a new level, while the Marco Pierre White Steakhouse & Grill is prime dining at its absolute best.
THE ACTIVITIES Hit the lap pool for an invigorating swim before breakfast or get out on the Abu Dhabi Creek waters in a kayak or paddleboard, available to hire at the health club. You can double up on sun, sea and sand thanks to the two beaches. Plus, kids can splash around in their own pool, and burn excess energy at the ping pong table. Abundant sun loungers await those in search of quiet relaxation.
To find out more, call +971 2 654 3333 or visit fairmont.com/babalbahr 84 worldtravellermagazine.com
WORLD TRAVELLER X DUKES THE PALM, A ROYAL HIDEAWAY HOTEL
STAYCATION
Dukes The Palm, a Royal Hideaway Hotel Enjoy the Brit buzz at this Palm Jumeirah resort where a little corner of England prevails THE ROOMS & SUITES It's British at its best at this Palm Jumeirah beachfront property, where style reigns supreme across its elegant collection of guestrooms, suites and one-bedroom apartments. With options for couples, families and larger groups, choose a room with Executive Lounge access and you'll also benefit from daily breakfast in Great British Restaurant, drinks in DUKES Bar and more.
THE FOOD Mumbai's legendary Khyber restaurant is the culinary centrepiece with a Mughalera menu and weekly themed experiences (including the Wednesday night 'chit chaat' where live stations give diners a taste of the full menu). An outstanding staple of Dubai's competitive steakhouse scene, West 14th Steakhouse adds extra flavour with live weeknight music and its popular DUKESY Friday Family Brunch.
THE ACTIVITIES Top to toe relaxation is a given, from a sunrise dip in the stunning infinity pool while the kids float along the lazy river, to an escapist couples' room treatment in the sanctuary of the spa and a quick cut, colour and blow dry courtesy of the hotel's Toni & Guy salon. Planning an early summer wedding? Look no further than the hotel's idyllic private beach with picture perfect Dubai Marina backdrop.
To find out more, call +971 4 455 1111 or visit dukesdubai.com 86 worldtravellermagazine.com
WORLD TRAVELLER X BAB AL SHAMS DESERT RESORT & SPA
STAYCATION
Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa Venture deep into the Dubai dunes for fun and adventure that's big on heritage THE ROOMS & SUITES The desert sands never felt so homely than within the stone walled confines of this Arabian fort and Bedouin heritage inspired resort. Navigate your way through an enchanting maze of cool alleys, past charming courtyards to your Terrace Room overlooking the quietly shifting dunes. As night falls, swap terrace relaxation for the indulgent appeal of a sunken bathtub and canopied bed.
THE FOOD Slip into a sweater and make a night of it under the stars at Al Hadheerah Desert Restaurant with authentic Middle Eastern mezzah, grilled dishes and traditional desserts on the menu plus live entertainment from the resident tanoura dancers, Arab musicians, a falcon display, camel show and more. Keep warm with an aromatic pot of Moroccan mint tea and fragrant shisha.
THE ACTIVITIES Poolside lounging and therapeutic relaxation at Satori Spa are all well and good, but with the desert on your doorstep it would be remiss not to explore farther afield. Sign up for a lesiurely nature walk, saddle up for a desert hack, learn about the art of falconry or try your hand at the ancient sport of archery. Younger family members also enjoy arts, crafts and fun at Aladdin's Kids' Club.
To find out more, call +971 4 809 6100 or visit babalshams.com 88 worldtravellermagazine.com
YOUR ULTIMATE DESERT ESCAPE.. Nestled among the dunes, Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa is the world’s favourite choice for dream desert getaways. This oasis of tranquility combines rustic charm with top-tier hospitality and luxury to bring to life an authentic desert experience. BOOK DIRECT & SAVE BAB AL SHAMS DESERT RESORT & SPA Dubai,United Arab Emirates +971 4 809 6100 BAS.info@meydanhotels.com babalshams.com /babalshamshotel
/babalshamshotel
/babalshamshotel
WORLD TRAVELLER X TWO SEASONS HOTEL & APARTMENTS
STAYCATION
Two Seasons Hotel & Apartments Enjoy year-round all-suite hospitality in Dubai with a stylish, contemporary edge THE SUITES & APARTMENTS Preening from a recent top to toe makeover, the suites and apartments punctuate a neutral, seasonal colour palette with colourful contemporary design accents and cool artworks. Kitchenettes come as a convenient standard for long stay guests and holidaying families, with the comforts of home on tap. Plus, you'll enjoy a city or sea view from your private balcony.
THE FOOD With seven restaurants and lounges, every taste is catered to. All-day dining restaurant La Terrasse serves up a different flavour every evening via its themed buffet, but you can also dine Ă la carte if the mood takes you. Lebanese cuisine at Qutoof and Asian delights at Noodle House will tempt you further, but be sure to squeeze in a sunset session at the 40th floor Sky Lounge.
THE ACTIVITIES Recharge, rejuvenate and relax at the hotel's dedicated wellness centre with a heart pumping session in the gym, or a soothing body treatment in the sanctuary of Dreamworks Spa. A schedule of exciting fitness classes add a little extra oomph to your stay with squash, spinning, martial arts and salsa dancing some of the activities on offer, while a cooling dip in the pool is fun for everyone.
To find out more, call +971 4 399 6666 or visit 2seasonshotels.com 90 worldtravellermagazine.com
Discover the perfect blend of convenience, stylish comfort for pleasure and business.
Email: info@2seasonshotels.com | Web: www.2seasonshotels.com Tel: +971 4 399 6666 | Fax: +971 4 381 8067 | P.O.Box: 502222, Sheikh Zayed Road, Dubai Internet City, UAE
א א Unlimited Comfort
WORLD TRAVELLER X JW MARRIOTT MARQUIS DUBAI
STAYCATION
JW Marriott Marquis Dubai Rise to the top at the world's tallest five-star hotel ROOMS & SUITES This lofty hotel has ample space to welcome guests. Its 1,608 guestrooms and suites have luxurious finishings – think marble bathrooms with rain showers and oversized tubs – and views of the glittering skyline or Dubai Water Canal. Families can book a suite and spread out in two separate living and sleeping areas. Room service is available around the clock.
THE FOOD There are 15 award-winning restaurants and bars here, each serving memorable dining experiences including steakhouse Prime68, and Japanese restaurant Izakaya. The latest addition, Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra, will bowl you over with dishes derived from ancient and modern recipes and from every region of India. We heartily recommend you indulge in the great value tasting menu.
THE ACTIVITIES The hotel is close to many top attractions, but there are lots of perks that'll tempt you to linger for longer at the property. Take a dip in the sparkling outdoor swimming pool or, for a spot of pampering, head to Saray Spa, which is home to the UAE's only Dead Sea floatation pool. Try the Saray Golden Hammam, which includes a decadent skin massage using 24-karat gold.
To find out more, call +971 4 414 3000 or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com 92 worldtravellermagazine.com
Inspiration. Expertly crafted. Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is centrally located beside the Dubai Water Canal and offers a spectrum of facilities and services for a seamless experience. The hotel features: 1,608 Luxurious Guest Rooms and Suites, Over 15 Award-Winning Restaurants and Lounges, Saray Spa featuring Traditional Hammams, A Dead Sea Floatation Pool and 17 Treatment Rooms, State-of-the-Art Health Club and Fitness facilities, 8,000 sqm of spectacular Meeting Spaces.
JW MarriottÂŽ MarquisÂŽ Hotel Dubai jwmarriott.com/DXBJW Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com
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ANDAZ CAPITAL GATE ABU DHABI 2 nights starting from USD185 per person Special offer: 10% savings on room rate. Includes: Stay 2 nights in a Standard Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers. Valid from: Until 30 April 2019. FAIRMONT BAB AL BAHR, ABU DHABI 2 nights starting from USD195 per person Special offer: 20% savings on room rate. Includes: Stay 2 nights in a Fairmont Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers. Valid from: Until 30 April 2019. RADISSON BLU YAS ISLAND ABU DHABI 1 night starting from USD165 per person Special offer: Complimentary unlimited bronze access to either Warner Brothers, Yas Waterworld or Ferrari World. Includes: Stay 1 night in a Standard Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers included. Valid from: Until 5 May 2019. SOFITEL ABU DHABI CORNICHE 1 night starting from USD112 per person Special offer: 35% saving on room rate. Includes: Stay 1 night in a Superior Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers. Valid from: Until 30 April 2019.
How to book
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THROUGH THE LENS Casa Batlló by Antoni Gaudí, Barcelona "Each year on 23 April, every nook and corner of Barcelona bursts with passion, love and idealism for Sant Jordi Day. Like a beautiful woman preparing herself for the feast, the Batlló house designed by famous architect and artist Antoni Gaudí (pictured), was adorned with the most alluring drape of roses in celebration of Catalonia's day of romance. With love in the air, the men offer vivid red roses to their loved ones and, in return, women give a book to their 'knight in shining armour'. To me, everything looked like a fairytale."
Travel photographer, Dario Veronesi, loves to travel because "it opens your eyes to different points of view and inspires creativity and imagination." @dariovero_
EMAIL US YOUR BEST TRAVEL PHOTOS in high-res jpeg format, along with the stories behind them to habiba@hotmediapublishing. com and you may end up being featured on this page
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A two-night stay at the exotic Anantara Kalutara Resort Situated where the Kalu River runs into the Indian Ocean, Anantara Kalutara Resort is just an hour away from Sri Lanka's vibrant capital city Colombo. Delivering the perfect tropical beachside getaway, the resort is ideal for those seeking quality family time, with fun activities such as watersports, archery and boating trips on offer. Plus, you can unwind at Anantara Spa with soothing Ayurvedic treatments. To find out more and to enter, visit worldtravellermagazine.com/win (terms & conditions apply).
TRAVEL INSPO AT YOUR FINGERTIPS Let our travel news and round-ups, available to read on our website, inspire your next trip…
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The Knowledge. Read our handy how-tos, from getting to grips with travel insurance to helping kids beat jet lag, and more.
2
Staycations. Take a peek inside these top hotels and resorts on your doorstep and then book your next mini break!
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Insider Guides. Check out our in-the-know travel edits of some of the most popular holiday destinations on our radar.
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Suite dreams Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a suite that has a character and style all of its own
Presidential Suite by Roche Bobois The Langham, New York, Fifth Avenue
High-end European design checks into Midtown Manhattan's upmarket shopping district, where the hotel’s Presidential Suite has a decidedly Gallic persona. Featuring luxe interiors by upscale French design house Roche Bobois, the 1,900-square-foot residence adds homegrown Michelin star exclusivity with a private chef experience courtesy of the team from its award-winning Ai Fiori restaurant, plus mini bar and pantry curated by Chef Michael White himself.
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Running until 8 June 2019
Inspiration. Expertly crafted. Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai, the world’s tallest 5-star hotel, is centrally located beside the Dubai Water Canal and offers a spectrum of facilities and services for a seamless experience. The hotel features: 1,608 luxurious guest rooms and suites, over 15 award-winning restaurants and lounges, Saray Spa featuring traditional hammams, a Dead Sea Floatation Pool and 17 treatment rooms, state-of-the-art health club and fitness facilities, as well as 8,000 sqm of spectacular meeting spaces.
JW Marriott® Marquis® Hotel Dubai jwmarriott.com/DXBJW Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com
