World Traveller April'17

Issue 108 | April 2017

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Editor’s note

Editor’s note Is it just me or is it hard to believe that we’re already in April? With the spring equinox just behind us, we’re now a third of the way through 2017 and, really, what more reason do you need to start planning a well-deserved escape? This month, in the gorgeous newly designed pages of World Traveller, we’ve got oodles of trip-spiration for you.

Managing director Victoria Thatcher Editorial director John Thatcher Group Commercial director David Wade Editor Hayley Skirka Art director Kerri Bennett sub-Editor Emma Laurence illustrations Adam Avery sales Manager Lisa Price lisa@hotmediapublishing.com +971 4 375 3608 Production Manager Muthu Kumar

Kicking things off in India, we’re traversing the subcontinent’s most colourful jewel, where vibrant experiences are ripe for discovery. From the pink rooftops of Jaipur to the blue-tinged hues of Jodphur and the elegance of India’s most famed monument – the Taj Mahal – Rajasthan is a rainbow state where you can savour every colour under the (very scorching Indian) sun.

In Europe, we’re working hard to keep up with one of the world’s most vibrant cities in the capital of Spain. As historic as it is vivacious, siestas are almost mandatory if you want to soak up the smorgasbord of colour and character that spring to life once night falls here. Get geared up for a flurry of tapas, flamenco and late-night carousing in the throng that is Madrid.

For a change of pace and a palette of ocean-inspired hues, in Mauritius we’re stepping away from the honeymooners to get to grips with the island’s beating heart. From sugar-cane plantations and natural-history museums to a face-to-face meeting with a dodo, this archipelago country is a wondrous tapestry that everyone can enjoy – loved-up haze not necessary.

Inspired by the shades of spring, I’m adding to my own wanderlust checklist next week as I head off to Sri Lanka to get lost in everything the teardrop nation has to offer. I can’t wait to tell you all about it but, until then, enjoy the issue and travel well.

Happy reading.

Hayley skirka hayley@hotmediapublishing.com

Jun-Dec 2016 | 22,984 | BPA Consumer Audit Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller.

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494

World Traveller 5

Contents April 2017

15 Be Here Now Tackle rapids on Nepal’s mightiest river or beeline to oh-so-cool California and the world’s biggest music festival, flower garlands a must

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spotliGHt oN MoDeNA Traverse the town that created the supercar, was home to Pavarotti and is famed for its balsamic vinegar

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GloBetrotter Idyllic abodes in Provence, designer hotels in New York and everything else that’s hot in the world of travel

CHef’s top tABles Mauritius-born, French-trained chef Roudy Peterson takes us on a culinary tour of his best-loved enclaves

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My City Famous for its Michelin-starred eateries, San Sebastián also offers street food, surfing and narrow alleyways just made for exploring

esCApe From the reinvention of sauna to beautyboosting juice and spiritual safari retreats, embrace all things wellness

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tHe loCAls’ GUiDe to CAiro Tahrir Square, koshary and emerging artists: Egypt’s capital is abuzz

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Contents

50 Destinations

WeekenDs

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DisCover CUsCo Machu Picchu, ancient ruins and Incan towns… this is Peru at its most magical

66

A loNG weekeND iN NiCosiA Ancient walls and a passionate modern scene unite in Cyprus’ divided capital

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iNDiA From fairy-tale palaces and colourful festivals to vistas in every imaginable hue, enter the rainbow land of Rajasthan

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48-HoUr fooDie Vibrant cafés, hole-in-the-wall eats and fine-dining fare – nothing tastes quite like Jordan

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MAUritiUs Not just for honeymooners, our man on the ground gets to grips with the real heart of Mauritius on a holiday for one

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trAvel Notes Explore alternative Abu Dhabi on a kayaking journey through the capital’s mangrove forests

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MADriD Gyrating with energy and pulsing with passion, come alive in Madrid

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stAyCAtioNs Fancy a weekend getaway? Choose from our hand-picked selection

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Check in

Be here now

Karnali River, Nepal

Rising from the famous Mount Kailash in Tibet, this is Nepal’s longest and mightiest river, and it thunders through the Himalayan landscape into many beautiful gorges and canyons as it flows into the forests of west Nepal before joining the Sharda River in India.

Travel through pristine jungle and keep an eye out for deer, monkey, colourful birds and, if you’re really lucky, the highly elusive tiger.

Bordered by sandy beaches, it’s the perfect watery playground for the whitewater-rafting trip of a lifetime, and at this time of year the waters are at their very best. Spend some time in Kathmandu before you leave and you could be lucky enough to get caught up in the excitement of Bisket Jatra – Nepali New Year – one of the country’s most stirring events where anything from swaying bright chariots to tongue-piercing ceremonies goes.

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Coachella Valley, California

After a quiet start to the year, things are heating up in California with Coachella – the biggest music festival of the year – happening over two April weekends, closely followed by one of the world’s biggest country-music events, the Stagecoach Festival. California’s spring flings are as much about donning flower garlands or a cowboy hat and having fun in the sunshine as they are about seeing some of the biggest names in music.

Afterwards, a visit to retro Palm Springs, the principal city of the Coachella Valley and a former favourite with Elvis, Sinatra and Marilyn Monroe, is a must. For nature lovers, the Valley is bounded by the Santa Rosa Mountains, the San Andreas Fault and the Chocolate Mountains, ideal for a springtime hike. Be sure to keep your eyes peeled for bighorn sheep, wildcats, bobcats, roadrunners and even the occasional mountain lion.

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globetrotter From private-island retreats to eco escapes, here’s whats hot in travel this month…

IntroducIng: the WhItby, new york Manhattan’s newest resident will leave you beautifully charmed Upper Midtown Manhattan has a brandnew address and one that’s drawing the elite. On West 56th Street at 5th Avenue, The Whitby is Firmdale Hotels’ second outing in the Big Apple.

Eighty-six gorgeously designed rooms and suites have been brought to vision by design director and hotel co-owner Kit Kemp. In keeping with the group’s signature style, expect innovative use of pattern, texture, colour and original artworks across each of the abodes, which are set over 16 storeys.

The star of the show has to be the Whitby Suite, commanding the entire top floor, with spacious furnished terraces facing uptown and downtown and a gorgeous bathroom elegantly finished in marble and granite that’s stocked with Firmdale’s exclusive body collection Rik Rak. When it comes to socialising, the Whitby Bar is a richly colourful space revolving around a 30ft pewter bar with beautifully upholstered banquettes and gorgeous grey floors. The drawing room is a cosy spot defined by its feature fireplace and oversized furniture: the perfect retreat in the city that never sleeps.

When you do want to venture out, you’re just a few minutes’ walk from

Central Park and Broadway with some of the world’s leading museums right on your doorstep, not least the worldrenowned MoMa. Retail therapy courtesy of Bergdorf Goodman is also on hand beside this winning combination of New Yorker and English rose.

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pretty proVence Soak up stunning landscapes in the picturesque South of France, whether you go for a former royal abode or tree-lined tranquillity in 18th-century surrounds… le doMaIne de palerMe What to expect?

A quintessential French dream in the beautiful L’Isle sur la Sorgue, this sunflowerlined mansion offers swaying hammocks in gardens thick with flowers, a gorgeous pool complete with traditional pool house and lovingly restored 18th-century interiors.

Where?

This old town, ringed by the River Sorgue, is known for its pretty canals, water wheels and narrow alleyways. Wander around taking in Renaissance mansions and the Medieval Tour d’Argent.

Must-do?

Channel the ghost of author and former resident Albert Camus, canoe along waterways, hop on a bicycle and don’t miss the worldfamous L’Isle antique market.

VIlla hautVallon What to expect?

This villa in Gordes is very much a haven of tranquillity, surrounded by two acres of lush gardens. With a heated outdoor pool, delicious French breakfasts and vintage cars for hire, it’s the classic South of France abode.

Where?

On the foothills of the Monts of Vaucluse, facing the Luberon, Gordes is one of the most beautiful villages in France and its labyrinth of calades is sure to charm.

Must-do?

Book the Natural History Suite with its exposed wooden beams and open stonework walls and you’ll never want to leave. If you do, be sure to visit the Musée de la Lavande and dine at long-standing Le Mas Tourteron.

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culture

InsIder

green

all that jazz Drawing performers from all over the world, the 12th edition of the Carthage Jazz Festival is on until 9 April in the historic Tunisian city. Running over 10 evenings with more than 20 jazz artists performing, see the likes of Jay-Jay Johanson, Pink Martini and Moroccan star Hindi Zahra. Away from the music, wonder at the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Antonine Baths – the largest Roman baths outside Rome itself – and Tunis Lake, separating the city from central Tunis.

paraMount london The UK is set to be the new go-to destination for thrill-seekers with the announcement of Paramount London.

Set to launch in 2021 at a cost of Dhs16 billion and covering an area the size of the Golden Gate Park in San Francisco, it will open near Dartford in Kent. Inspired

by Paramount films, BBC productions and Aardman Animations, and featuring rides for all the family, there’ll be a daily Paramount and Friends Carnival plus a host of bars, restaurants and cafés.

stylIshly sustaInable The National Geographic’s annual World Legacy Awards took place last month, paying kudos to leaders in the world of sustainable travel and tourism. Cayuga Collection were named ‘Earth Changers’ for their commitment to change in every last detail – even their drinking straws are made of bamboo – while North Island (pictured) in the Seychelles got a pat on the back for its Noah’s Ark initiative, where guests’ bookings contribute to the work of dedicated on-site biologists.

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CheCk In Globetrotter

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From a magician’s playground to an african water wonderland, discover paradise at three of the world’s most beautiful private-island resorts, where natural beauty abounds – and doing nothing is simply everything

ways to… escape to your own private island

castaway in Fiji For uber-exclusivity, Dolphin Island is a 14acre private retreat that sleeps just eight guests in gorgeous Fijian wood and straw lodges. A 20-minute boat ride from Viti Levus’ north shoreline, it boasts awesome diving and snorkelling, deliciously fresh seafood dinners and the chance to kick back in a hammock with a good book…

The real castaway experience.

Magical moments in the bahamas Owned by superstar magician David Copperfield, Musha Cay’s flagship villa has a four-poster bed, wraparound mahogany balcony with 360° views, lush gardens and an outdoor fireplace for romantic alfresco nights. Enjoy the ultimate private picnic, sail on an amphibious catamaran or experience a drive-thru movie with a difference.

beneath the blue in tanzania In its own marine reserves, Thanda Island (pictured) is a retreat that was 10 years in the making and it shows. The lush five-bedroom villa comes with an indoor aquarium, grand piano, cigar humidor and glass rim-flow swimming pool, and the surrounds are as impressive. Swim with whale sharks, sail on an Arabian dhow or enjoy some of the world’s greatest diving.

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Food For thought Transport your taste buds to the heart of the Alps as Alpine fare demands attention away from the slopes

bellanger, london Championing Alpine tastes in London’s Islington, this spot is inspired by Alsatian brasseries in belle-époque Paris and serves up coq au Riesling, baeckeoffe and tartes flambées in style.

publique, dubai Alpine love in the heart of the desert. Feast on delicious fondue, creamy raclette and other après-ski classics at this French Savoie bar and tavern where the music is as impressive as the eats.

goIng up In the World le neptune, geneva The mountains are the only thing missing in this place where Alpine creations are crafted from the freshest ingredients. Try the Le Saint Pierre or tangy veal tartare, paired with Genevan grape.

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underwater adventures Where? Montserrat Why? The Caribbean island’s volcanic eruptions have had an unexpected effect on its underwater landscape, creating something of an accidental nature park.

What? With over 13 miles of coastline, divers can discover everything from colourful reef fish and sea plumes to stony ledges, spiny lobsters and copper

sweepers. Dolphins, pipefish, eaglerays, green turtles and nurse sharks also call these waters home.

Where to stay? On a mostly villa-based island, our pick is Gingerbread Hill. Book the Heavenly Suite for 360° views of rainforest, mountains and blue ocean.

Climb your private fairy-lit spiral staircase to wonder at a star-studded night sky.

CheCk In My city

My City

San SebaStian Renowned for its beaches, surf and plethora of Michelin-starred restaurants, San Sebastian in the pretty Basque Country of Spain is full of hidden treasures Marta YaNCI

the founder of Marta’s Kitchen in Dubai gives us the inside scoop on her home city

S

an Sebastian, the capital city of Spain’s pretty Gipuzkoa province, is located in the north of the country, very close to France, surrounded by beautiful mountains, valleys and, of course, the Cantabrian Sea. The town first became a favourite with the royal families of Europe during the 19th and 20th centuries, not only for its beauty but also for the sheer diversity of activities and leisure that it offered. To this day, it continues to be a lively city hosting many renowned events – the San Sebastian Film Festival, held every September, is probably the most famous.

From a culinary perspective, the province is known for having the biggest number of Michelin restaurants in correlation to its population, and people travel from all over the world to taste our

chefs’ creations – hilltop Arzak, seafood haven Akelarre and innovative Mugarit are just a handful of our lauded eateries.

I really believe that growing up in such a place gave me a keen understanding of the world of food and flavours, something that grew even more with my travels around the world and led me to work with food.

Despite the numerous acclaimed restaurants, probably the most iconic thing about San Sebastian is the street life and the pintxos – the Basque version of tapas. Head to Parte Vieja (or the Old Town) to delve into the real social centre of San Sebastian, where the streets are crammed full of places offering some of the best pintxos in the city. Visit Txepetxa to try the famous antxoas (sardines) prepared in many different ways – all equally delicious. Or go to the awardwinning Zeruko; as soon as you walk in and see the display on the counter, you’ll know you’re in culinary heaven.

If you have a sweet tooth, try La Vina’s cheesecake, considered by many to be the best in the world.

Another interesting neighbourhood is Gros. One of my favourite spots here is Bergara, a place that has become a classic with some truly amazing options, like its zucchini and shrimp tartlet.

The town centre is a fantastic area for shopping. San Sebastian has some amazing boutiques and a very busy street life; you can see street artists performing on almost every corner and of course pintxos can also be enjoyed in this part of town. La Espiga is one of the most traditional bars. Finally, along the beach of Ondarreta – renowned by surfers all over the world – you’ll find some simple yet fantastic bars and cafés. Pop into whichever one takes your fancy and then enjoy a long walk as you try – and fail – not to fall in love with San Sebastian.

Enjoy the beaches, too – especially La Concha, which was recently selected as one of Europe’s best. Finally, don’t miss out on a visit to the old port, where you can enjoy some truly amazing seafood served in paper cones, the good old-fashioned way.

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Ask The experT rob Arrow Head of product at dnata With over a decade of experience in the luxury travel industry, Rob loves nothing more than talking hotels and discovering destinations.

His favourite country is Lebanon, his beloved city is Melbourne, and his dream is to own a boutique retreat in the Italian Alps

Q A

Do I need to drive in LA to see the city properly?

Yes. I’d always suggest hiring a car when travelling to Los Angeles for a number of reasons, the main one being that the metropolitan area of LA is so very vast. The city was made for cars: there are highways, expressways, underpasses and overpasses in most directions, and the key areas are built in a large grid plan, so even if you don’t know the city well, it’s difficult to go wrong.

Sadly all these roads mean a lot of cars and, depending on the time of day, traffic can be pretty intense, which means you need to time things right. For example, a Sunday-morning drive from West Hollywood to LAX can take less than 30 minutes but the same journey at 9am on a Monday could take nearly two hours.

Although there are provisions for a new, improved public transport system, at the moment it’s just buses and a handful of metro lines, so the car is still king. It’s no surprise, then, that LAX has one of the best car-rental terminals in the USA. When you’re in LA, you want the freedom to explore and experience iconic routes – you can’t not take a drive down Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills or an afternoon saunter around leafy Bel Air and up into the Hollywood Hills. My all-time favourite agenda is morning coffee in West Hollywood, then shopping at the Beverly Centre or The Grove. Then, before the schools finish, head out to Santa Monica and Newport for a lovely late-afternoon stroll along the boardwalks. Of course, you can spend longer on the coast at Venice Beach or even take a few nights and drive down to Santa Barbara, where you can really relax. All in all, with the reasonable cost of car rental and some really cool rental options – from Mustangs to Dodge convertibles – no trip to LA is complete without a car to enjoy it.

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The car is king in LA

Q A

We want to visit a Mediterranean Island – where do you recommend?

When people think of islands in this part of the world, it’s normally an Indian Ocean nation or atoll that springs to mind. However, the Mediterranean also has some fantastic options. I often get asked which is my favourite and, for friends and fun times, I have to recommend Mykonos and Santorini in Greece. Not only are they visually stunning, they boast amazing boutique hotels with refreshing white cave-style rooms focusing on the stunning views. Two properties that really stand out are Mystique, with its cliffside location and epic views, and Vedama, close to the airport and main port and just a few miles from Fira. A warning: be sure to book well in advance as hotels are small and travel options limited.

If you’re planning to visit the Neapolitan coast of Italy, there are a number of small

islands on which you can enjoy a night or two, the most famous of which is Capri.

Easy to reach and with so much to do – go diving, stroll along steeped streets or shop Italy’s most famous designers and really enjoy the dolce vita. Head to Ana Capri where it’s entirely peaceful. I recommend staying at the Capri Palace – it’s spacious, very well located and offers a shuttle to Capri town and the port.

For a short-break island experience, any time of the year, with great food, amazing history and the friendliest of people, Malta is very accessible. The scenery changes rapidly from St Julian’s Bay to the highwalled town of Mdina, and you’ll find lots of similarities with the Arabic culture. Stay at the InterContinental Malta, where great suites and both indoor and outdoor pools make it the perfect year-round choice.

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Award winning dining options, evolving culinary temptations awaiting you. Not to miss the unique Balance Wellness Centre and the award winning Anantara Spa for total rejuvenation.

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CheCk In Spotlight

What to see Birthplace of a legend It’s not hard to spot the Museo Casa Enzo Ferraria (musei.ferrari.com) – its striking yellow car-bonnet-inspired roof blares out loudly against the Modena skyline.

A definite must-visit that tells the story of Ferrari’s founding father as well as showcasing some of the most beautiful cars ever built. historical wonders The Piazza Grande is a UNESCO-certified cultural treasure in the very centre of Modena. Marvel at its white marble façade gleaming under the Italian sunshine and visit the 12th-century Corso Duomo for architecture at its finest.

What to do start your engines If you’re itching to get behind the wheel of one of the legendary horse-prancing machines, then head a few kilometres outside of Modena to Maranello, the home of the Ferrari factory. Pushstart (pushstart.it) offers a whole rainbow of shiny Ferraris waiting to transform your boy- (or girl-) hood dreams into reality.

Test-drive options range from 10 to 120 minutes, depending on how much of a fix you think you’ll need. sweetly sour grapes Famed the world over for its balsamic vinegar, visit the small familyrun producer Acetaia di Giorgio (acetaiadigiorgio.it), where Giorgio and Giovanna will walk you through the fermentation process, which sees vinegar aged in wooden barrels for minimum periods of 12 years. End proceedings with a tasting session after which you’ll be hard-pressed not to splurge on a bottle.

Spotlight on Modena Home of balsamic vinegar, Ferrari and the late Luciano Pavarotti, it’s no wonder this pretty Italian starlet in northern Italy’s Emilia-Romagna province is getting so much attention Where to stay?

Where to eat and drink osteria Francescana Pippping Scandinavian double-winner Noma to the title of World’s Best Restaurant last year, tranquil Osteria Francescana (osteriafrancescana.it), down an unremarkable backstreet, is a must-visit. Headed up by Italy’s best chef Massimo Bottura, celebrate the EmiliaRomagna region over traditional dishes fused with an international outlook.

Don’t miss the famous Five Ages of Parmigiano Reggiano – a taste discovery of the region’s esteemed cheese.

For historical elegance...

Stay at Hotel Canalgrande in the centre of town. Step back in time at this ancient palace that dates all the way back to the 1500s. Originally a monastery, this Palazzo Schedoni smacks of elegance retaining much of its 1788 character, when it was turned into a mansion. Go for a room overlooking the garden for fantastic vistas. canalgrandehotel.it For charming tradition...

Former noble residence Hotel Castello is surrounded by woodland where you can spot pheasants and hares. The family-run hotel, within walking distance of the town centre, is a great choice for a romantic escape. hotelcastello-mo.it

La Barraca When in Italy, you’ve got to eat pizza, right? For the best in town, head to quirky La Barraca (ristorantelabaracca.com), about 10 minutes outside of Bardi. On the banks of the Ceno River, sit outside under the vines and tuck into pizza margherita like you’ve never tasted before.

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Charcoal-grilled Black Angus striploin at Catch

Chef’s top tables

Join us on an expert-led culinary whirl around the world as chefs in the know give us their picks for eating out on a global scale

As head chef at Catch in Abu Dhabi, Roudy Petersen surprises diners by taking simple ingredients and transforming them into gourmet delights. Here, his hot list takes us from Paris to the heart of New York, via a short stop in Downtown Dubai…

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Bras Le Suquet Michel Bras is one of the true gurus of French gastronomy and every chef, especially those that train in France, will hear his name crop up again and again. Along with his son Sebastian, he creates food that you eat first with your eyes. Using local herbs and flowers from the rural landscape of Aubrac, the pair truly bring dishes to life.

Personally, I have to say that Bras, more than any other chef, inspired me in the art of plating and his example is something that I’ve followed since I first started training to be a chef.

FAvouRite DisH: Scallops ‘rolled’ a la plancha with cooked and raw cauliflower.

Michel Bras brings dishes to life

CheCk In Chef's top tables

Simple plating at Eleven Madison Park

Eleven Madison Park For me, this place is easily the best restaurant in New York and one of the best in the world. Daniel Humm is a great guy and this is reflected in his humble approach to the menu, which focuses on locally sourced ingredients and seasonality. Since paring back the tasting menu, things have got even better.

Behind simply plated dishes, Humm plays with flavour and technique to deliver food that constantly surprises.

It’s simply unmissable if you’re visiting the city and looking for a high-end culinary experience.

FAvouRite DisH: Daniel’s riff on Eggs Benedict is a masterful and beautiful thing.

A masterful creation at Restaurant Pierre Gagnaire

Restaurant Pierre Gagnaire If cooking is art, then Pierre Gagnaire is the Picasso of the culinary world. Everything he does is masterful, but his eponymous restaurant in the French capital is my favourite and fully deserves its three Michelin stars. The 15-course tasting menu is gastronomy at its finest, pushing the boundaries of flavour combinations and techniques.

Go with no expectations and enjoy the ride – so beautiful.

FAvouRite DisH: The menu changes regularly but everything is without fault.

get everything right, from the dining room and the service to the food, which is perfection.

I love the chef’s use of technique, but it’s the original way they use flavour that makes me want to go back again and again. Before I tried Zuma I didn’t really work with Japanese flavours, but now they’re one of the cornerstones of the menu at Catch, where we merge flavours from around the world.

FAvouRite DisH: It has to be the black cod.

Zuma Even if Zuma didn’t command such a prime location, it would still be the best restaurant in the city. The team there simply

Zuma’s renowned black cod

World Traveller 25

Home of Luxury in Riyadh

blends the Arabian values of hospitality and warmth with Kempinski management expertise and our remarkable European flair to bring you 349 rooms and suites with inspired, tasteful and stylish modern Najdi architecture.

B U R J R A FA L H O T EL K EM P I N S K I

A peaceful oasis amidst a dynamic city, the hotel offers a wide range of outstanding services.

These begin with an exquisite variety of dining experiences in exceptional restaurants including authentic Ottoman cuisine, and go on to include exclusively distinguished lounges, a barber shop, fitness centre and two separate swimming pools and spa facilities for men and women.

For more information please call us on +966 11 511 7777 or email us at: reservations.burjrafal@kempinski.com Burj Rafal Hotel Kempinski 7647 King Fahad Road, Sahafa Unit 1, Riyadh 13315-2174, Saudi Arabia Tel: +966 11 511 7777 ¡ Fax: +966 11 511 7778 ¡ kempinski.com/burjrafal /BurjRafalHotelKempinski

@BurjRafalHotel

@BurjRafalHotelKempinski

ANNIVERSARY

Escape

Get away from it all with our monthly shot of wellness

Healing spirit In the central wildlife sanctuary of Kenya’s Laikipia, surrounded by game-rich wooded savannahs and grasslands just north of the equator, Segera Retreat is offering a safari like no other.

From 22 to 27 May, healing artists will guide visitors through a week of yoga, meditation and live crystal sound baths alongside a range of treatments and massages amid wondrous wildlife.

Discover the Wellbeing Spa, where home-made scrubs and oils are blended with herbs from the garden and locally grown ingredients. An on-site organic farm means deliciously ripe fare, so you can feast on fresh juices, raw salads and tasty smoothies.

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Escape ChECk In

riSE of thE SPirit SPa

Embrace your inner spirituality and let the ancient threads of learning capture your imagination at this Indian tribal retreat

Bursting with artisan touches through sweeping openarched windows and tented spas evoking a tribal Murghal heritage, the language of the leela Palace is history and wonder on the beautiful banks of Lake Pichola. Check in for a restful retreat where you can indulge under the guidance of a yoga master, balancing body and mind through a combination of asanas, mudras and pranayama. Try mediation in the Guava Garden and watch Rajasthani folk dancing by the lakeside. Collaborating with ESPA, treatments have evolved from Ayurveda and include Abhyanga massage and traditional Indian healing.

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Earth SalutationS Mark Earth Day on 22 April, and honour the planet in style with ted Baker’s gorgeous new Fit To A T collection, inspired by flowing blue lagoons. Take your pick from crossover sports bras, statement leggings, and stylish gilets with scalloped edges and technical fabrics, then get ready to perform sun and earth salutations to show your love for this wonderful planet we all call home.

thE Monthly fix Beauty food Promising everything from glowing skin to glossy hair, get your hands on one of Detox Delight’s beauty shots for an instant fix to a multitude of sins. Born on the premise of feeding the skin from the inside out, they’re 100% organic, natural, cold-pressed, vegan and glutenfree; game changer. detox-delight.ae

PicturE PErfEct At Santorini’s canaves oia hotel, the authentic spa has been entirely renovated from two caves that date back to the 17th century. The new look comes with a perfect infinity pool and dotted cabanas with breathtaking views. The ideal place to soothe body and mind.

CheCk In escape

The hoT sTuff From theatrical spa-master performances to jaw-dropping sauna amphitheatres, sweating is about to get more spectacular Sauna. It’s a serious business and one that no-one takes quite as seriously as the Finnish. Birthplace of the ultimate form of relaxation, it’s fitting that the International Sauna Association is headquartered in Helsinki, capital of a nation of five million people and over three million saunas – that’s around one per household! Today, it’s not just the Finns whose love for the hot stuff is insatiable. In the pretty Alpine town of Kiztbuhel, delegates of the 2016 Global Wellness Summit had one hot topic on their agenda: what the world can learn from the traditions of sauna and how the experience itself is being reimagined.

Look to Norway and the introduction of Sauna Aufguss to see how sauna is transforming into an event, with sauna masters serving up some serious entertainment to sweaty but happy audiences. Found predominantly across north and central Europe, Aufguss teams post daily updates of what’s ‘playing’ and sauna masters have become spa celebrities known for their special performances, like an ornate salt-peeling ceremony at Aquapalace in the Czech Republic –

currently leading the rankings in the Aufgass World Championships (yes, that’s a thing) – or an elaborate bowl mediation from the team at Norway’s The Well.

Some of the acts even include full-blown dance routines with costumes, music, light and smoke shows.

Elsewhere, the world of sauna is embracing huge hip new amphitheatre venues where hundreds of people can sit – and sweat – communally. Norway’s SALT spa, on a remote beach on an island in the Arctic Circle, launched during the year-long Nordic Salt festival and accommodates up to 100 people with gorgeous views of the sea, music by acclaimed Norwegian artist Biosphere and a fully stocked bar.

Across the pond the buzz is all about the introduction of ShapeHouse – LA’s first urban sweat lodge. Located in Larchmont, one of the city’s most charming neighbourhoods, this place combines a creative social design with ancient traditions and modern wellness.

As the 2,000-year-old traditions of sauna are rewritten for the 21st century, now is the time to get your sweat on.

sWeaT iT ouT Inspired by sauna’s reinvention? Try it here…

Four seasons spa, doha The laconium room at the Four seasons doha is like a Finnish sauna, but with a milder temperature so that you can enjoy it for longer. With benefits including a boost in circulation, accelerated elimination of metabolic waste and mobilisation of your body’s natural defences, you’ll never want to leave. afterwards, relax on heated laconium beds.

Livnordic spa by raison d’eTre, dubai For a little slice of nordic sauna know-how in the middle of the desert, this gorgeously minimalist spot in dubai’s famous twisting cayan Tower is a must-visit. Try the nordic bathing ritual for a complete sauna experience. alternating between hot and cold baths and environments detoxes the body, relaxes tired muscles and boosts circulation. start in the sauna, dip into the cold plunge, retreat to the sauna, cool off with cold water and repeat.

SALT, Norway

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Salalah’s newest abode Known for its tropical climate and frankincense traditions, the beautiful south Oman coast has a new resident that is also the coast’s first five-star spa resort

N

estled between coconut plantations and a beautiful white sandy beach bordering a blue sea that glistens under the sun, the Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara is a welcome oasis on the stunning south coast of Oman.

Inspired by the traditional villages of Dhofar, the hotel reflects traditional Omani design with the main whitewashed building representative of the fort that would have traditionally housed the village sheikh.

Beside mammoth wooden doors, a frankincense-tree logo – designed in collaboration with Sultan Qaboos Said al Said, ruler of Oman – welcomes guests.

Dotted among 750 coconut palms lie 88 one- and two-bedroom villas, each boasting traditional Omanistyle flat roofs. Throughout the resort, recessed walls that would once have been used to store supplies are adorned with local antiques and artwork, and a whole host of water features, mimicking the ancient falaj irrigation system, are present throughout.

Take your pick from dramatic views of the ocean from the Premier Sea View Rooms or, if privacy is your forte, opt for a Garden View Villa where you’ll be completely secluded and can enjoy sunning yourself on a private terrace complete with huge cabana and private pool. For sunset views like no other, the Beach View Villas are the ideal choice.

Once you’re checked in, have a think about what you want to see and do. If you’re seeking adrenalinefuelled fun then try your hand at wadi bashing, hiking or head out on a 4x4 exhibition with one of the local experts to discover ancient villages. Get out on the water for a dolphin-spotting trip or catch marlin, tuna and saltfish with a fishing trip on the ocean. For 30 World Traveller

Promotion

something more relaxing, enjoy paddleboarding or kayaking along calm blue seas or join a sunset yoga session on the beach. For history fans, the fascinating Museum of The Frankincense Land and historic Al Baleed archeological site is right next door.

If relaxation is key, head to the Anantara Spa, where Thai roots are combined with Arabian culture to create a selection of timeless revitalising treatments. Embrace local customs by opting for the frankincense ritual, where two therapists will utilise the sacred Omani essence to transport you to a state of pure relaxation. Otherwise, visit the huge Arabian hammam, where traditional tellaks are on hand to guide you through this age-old tradition.

Kids and teens will be in their element thanks to dedicated clubs where daily activities include the likes of beach camping, movie nights and treasure hunts; the little ones even have their very own miniature sunloungers.

When it comes to cuisine, options are excellent.

Try all-day dining at Sakalan for freshly baked breakfasts, lavish lunches and delicious buffet dinners. Al Mina is a Mediterranean-inspired terrace restaurant where nightly entertainment by the in-house band accompanies seriously tasty bites.

Meanwhile, Asian delights are on offer at Mekong.

For something truly special, try a Dining by Design experience – staff will create a table and seating out of sand on the resort’s pristine beach before escorting you to dinner, via the light of flaming lanterns, where you’ll then be served mouthwateringly fresh seafood and Arabic delicacies to impress.

Discover all the beauty of Oman’s most precious jewel with a stay at Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara. Find out more at salalah.anantara.com World Traveller 31

WORLD TRAVELLER

Reader offers

A

Malaysia

Penang-Kuala lumPur 6 nights from USD735 per person Includes: 3 nights at Holiday Inn Penang, 3 nights at Melia Kuala Lumpur, breakfast, half-day trip to Penang Hill, Monkey Beach trip with boat ride and BBQ lunch, day trip to Sunway Lagoon, rainforest tour in Kuala Lumpur, and return private airport transfers Validity: Now until 30 Jun 2017 Take in the treasures of Penang and wonder of the Garden City of Lights

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Singapore

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the St. regiS SingaPore 3 nights from USD505 per person Special offer: 16% discount on room rate, 3rd adult/child stays free, 24-hour butler service and extended check-out until 2pm Includes: Stay in an Executive Deluxe Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now until 31 May 2017

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Discover the City of Lions from one of the most elegant addresses in all of Singapore, butler service included

Ah, the Seychelles. Blue skies, tropical palms and ocean so blue: check into this wondrous spot

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Shangri-la PariS hotel 3 nights from USD1,430 per person Special offer: Stay 3 nights and receive an additional night free Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now until 31 May 2017 The City of Love is beautiful in spring and a stay at this upscale abode amid the historic sights of the 6th arrondissement is the perfect base

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WarWicK geneva 3 nights from USD453 per person Special offer: 20% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now until 21 Apr 2017 Horology, chocolate and boating galore in the pretty surrounds of Geneva: explore it all from the cosmopolitan Warwick – in the very centre of town

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mövenPicK reSort & SPa dead Sea 3 nights from USD209 per person Special offer: 20% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in a Classic Room with breakfast daily Validity: Now until 31 May 2017 Reap the health benefits of the world’s lowest point at this luxurious resort with a quaint, traditional village setting, nestled among pretty gardens

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Unwind and enjoy

World Traveller 33

dnata offers

WORLD TRAVELLER

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Whether a tropical retreat or a historic city stay, these classic destinations should be on everyone’s visit list I

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The locals’ guide to…

Cairo

Chock-a-block with crowds, street sellers and bumper-tobumper traffic, we get under the skin of The Mother of the World

Street food abounds in Cairo, from freshly baked bread to koshary

Osman Mohammed

Foodie @cairoeats What’s your go-to restaurant in Cairo?

Osmanly, inside the Kempinski Hotel on the Nile, is gorgeous and a good place to take visitors. They serve a blend of Turkish and Egyptian foods, and the friendly service and beautiful surrounds usually impress everyone. Birdcage in the Semiramis InterContinental is another great spot and it’s where I take visitors who want to try something nonArabic – they do amazing Thai food.

What’s the city’s best-kept foodie secret?

One of my favourites is Fashet Sumaya. It’s a tiny place, hidden away in an alleyway 36 World Traveller

off Hoda Shaarawi Street, down a few steps – you’d hardly notice it. It’s run by just one woman, called Sumaya. Her food tastes just like home cooking. It’s a set menu but you won’t be disappointed.

The city’s most stylish restaurant?

It has to be Don Quichotte. This is in one of Cairo’s nicest areas and is really romantic. The food is inspired by French cuisine and it’s always bustling – make sure you book ahead as it’s very popular.

And the must-try local food?

There’s loads of street food and it’s super cheap. Try grilled corn, taamiya, pretzels, fiteer and freshly baked bread. The most iconic local dish is koshary – a mixture

of pasta, lentils and tomato sauce.

You can get it at loads of street stalls.

Tell us something only the locals know…

If you don’t have a car but want to try Cairo’s drive-thru shisha scene, taxi drivers are happy to take you.

Birdcage, Semiramis InterContinental

CheCk In The locals’ guide

Ayman Ahmed

Private tour guide tour-egypt.webgarden.com What’s the most exciting cultural aspect of the city?

There are so many things to see and you don’t want to miss out on anything, but I’ve found one thing that’s always a hit with visitors is the whirling dervish.

Is there anything visitors are surprised by when it comes to culture in Cairo?

I think, perhaps, the Egyptian culture of staying up very late and then getting up very early to go to work takes some getting used to, and the car horns. Cairo drivers are expressive with their horn – and the rhythm of their honking dictates what they mean. For example, four short bursts followed by a longer one means the same as ‘look where you’re going’.

It’s a whole other language.

The best area in Cairo for exploring?

It has to be El Moez Street. Check out the historic mosques and houses dating back to 900AD. Afterwards, downtown Cairo is the place to head to explore cafés and teahouses.

What about hidden gems?

Not really hidden, but definitely a gem, the Complex of Qalawun is a massive place that was built by Sultan Al Nasir Muhammed Ibn Qalawun in the 1280s.

There’s a mosque, mausoleum and hospital in typical Mameluke architecture; the mausoleum has been called one of the most beautiful buildings in all of Cairo.

Don’t miss the famous whirling dancers

Formal Specters by Mohammed Ezz Eldin

Aya Mostafa

Artist What would you recommend visitors do while in town?

Probably visit the Egyptian Museum.

Not only is it ancient – it was built in 1891 – it’s also located at Tahrir Square so has been embroiled in the political fabric of the country. It’s huge and will take you a long time to discover all its gifts, but make sure you see Tutankhamun’s treasures. Also wander the Khan el-Khalili Bazaar, a treasure trove of trinkets, crafts and tea, and a great place to chat to locals.

Tell us a bit about the art scene in the city…

It’s flourishing, with a whole host of contemporary galleries like 6Cairo and the Karim Frances Contemporary Gallery. Throughout the year there are plenty of exhibitions to check out, too.

Are there any emerging local artists we should keep an eye out for?

Yes, too many. Probably my favourite at the moment is Mohamed Ezz Eldin, a conceptual photographer who captures truly beautiful shots.

Is there anything you find visitors to Cairo are surprised by?

I think people are surprised by the variety of things on offer and the

friendly attitude of the Egyptian people.

You can see things like traditional whirling dancers or crafts being handmade in local markets, but there’s also an amazing contemporary art and music scene. Most people in Cairo have a totally liberal attitude and even though they may want to talk to you a lot, they will usually all be super friendly.

Anything else you think we should know?

As clichéd as you might think it is, you should still go and see the pyramids – the icon of Cairo. Don’t take one of the horse tours to the top as they aren’t the safest things, and you’ll get better pictures wandering around on foot anyway.

Find treasures in the Khan el-Khalili Bazaar

World Traveller 37

DISCOVER Cusco

The former centre of the Inca world and the closest city to the icon that is Machu Picchu, we get an uninterrupted view of the colourful towns, ancient trails and unanswered mysteries of Peru at its most magical

38 World Traveller

Destinations

City in the sky

The most important Inca monument in existence, Machu Picchu is the highlight for the majority of travellers to Peru. Standing proudly in an exclusive club of must-see world sights alongside the likes of the Taj Mahal and the Colosseum, this enchanting citadel is as breathtaking as it is mysterious. Set in subtropical forests amid swirling clouds, bouncy llamas, ancient ruins and rolling green valleys, it throws up as many questions as it does wonder. Was it a royal retreat, a military stronghold, a shrine, or something else entirely? And, fashioned by men without mortar, how do the stones fit together so tightly that not even a knife’s blade can pass between them? Even more bizarrely, how did Spanish conquistadors not notice this huge structure in their destruction of the Inca settlements? Discover the mystery for yourself on this world stage.

World Traveller 39

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destinations discover

inCa Living

Deep in the heart of the Sacred Valley just outside Cusco, the town of Ollantaytambo is a living, breathing Inca domain. Founded by the Inca Pachacutec in the mid 15th century, spend a day wandering down the same streets and marvelling at the huge stones that form the buildings that line them – little has changed since they were built. Practically tiny, there’s a central town square surrounded by a few shops and lots of small roads that lead up and off into the valley. A flurry of yellow walls and red roofs depict local businesses, houses and compounds, and the entire town is a setting of skinny stone-walled roads. Take some time out to have lunch or simply wander – don’t miss the amazingly constructed canals that bring water down from the valley to the villagers – in this gateway to Machu Picchu.

World Traveller 41

saLt of the earth

On the slopes of Qaqawinay Mountain, at an elevation of 3,380m in the Urumbada Valley, around 46km from Cusco and cascading down the hillside like uneven steps, the Salinas de Maras are breathtaking. Fed by a small local stream, this field of angular, interlocking earthern evaporation pools was created in the 1400s by the Incas. Each year, salt is harvested from the patchwork of shallow pools via a process of evaporation before the salt crystals are scraped off the ground and the process begins again. Today, about 3,000 pools are still harvested by the community of local families who control the salt pans, having passed them down from generation to generation, and the salt is still bagged up, packaged and sold at local markets.

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the height of ruin On a hill above Cusco city lies the ancient Ruins of Sacsayhuaman, a ceremonial centre and strategically placed fortress that dates to the reign of the Incas. Historians claim that it took almost a century and the work of around 20,000 men to build this site. The gigantic stones pictured make up the outer walls; each weighs several hundred tonnes and was crafted from limestone excavated in the town of Yucay, around 15km from the ruins.

Considering the Incas didn’t have wheeled transport, that’s decidedly impressive. Open daily from 7am to 5.30pm, the site is also a good spot to begin to acclimatise to the high altitudes of the Andes Mountains.

World Traveller 43

India destInatIons

The

colours of Rajasthan From the ever-changing hues of the Pink City to leopard hunting in the verdant hills of Aravalli, we traverse the vibrant tapestry of Indian icons waiting to be discovered in Rajasthan

words: Gill Charlton

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destinations india

World Traveller 45

India destInatIons

T

he romance, artistry and sheer magnificence of India’s cultural heritage is encapsulated by the Taj Mahal and the great forts and palaces of Rajasthan. Jaipur and Udaipur are stage sets that conjure up storybook India, a land where fabulously wealthy Hindu kings fought and loved and indulged their fondness for pomp and ceremony. Like Italian dukes, they vied with each other to build bigger and better, employing the finest artisans and eye-wateringly expensive materials.

A journey to these remarkable sights and cities is on almost every traveller’s wish list. But it needs to be planned with care and imagination. Not only is it vital that your visit to the Taj Mahal isn’t marred by the crowds, but for a rewarding holiday you also need to do more than dash from one highlight to another.

To see Rajasthan in the most relaxing and enjoyable way possible, I’ve set out a perfect itinerary based on travelling in your own chauffeured car. This is not as expensive an option as you might think and is by far the most flexible and comfortable way to travel. It also allows you to move at a sensible pace to avoid fort-and-temple fatigue and gives plenty of opportunities to escape the tourist hordes.

In villages deep in the green Aravalli Hills, life has barely changed in over a thousand years. Potters, carpenters, cobblers and silversmiths still ply their trades and farmers keep fine herds of cattle and goats. Visits to Chhatra Sagar and Narlai, where you can engage with traditional village life while staying in comfortable heritage hotels, are a must. There you’ll discover a modern India that is vibrant, spiritual, outgoing and perpetually fascinating.

I’ve hand-picked some of the best guides, too. Recently in Jaipur I walked out with Vineet Sharma, a former banker who loves his city and isn’t interested in taking you to be ripped off by local shopkeepers.

On his walk I learned more about the practice of Hindu worship and its competing sects than in all the books I’ve ever read. Along the way we sampled the city’s best street food and watched carvers working on life-size statues in marble from the same quarry that was used to

46 World Traveller

Tick off a bucket-list favourite watching the sunrise over the Taj Mahal Farming in the Aravalli Hills

destination india

“Emperor Shah Jehan’s ethereal memorial to his beloved wife never fails to astonish.

Guides are an unnecessary distraction”

build the Taj Mahal. It’s experiences like these that you’ll remember long after the gem-encrusted ceiling of a maharajah’s palace has faded from your memory.

Start your adventure by checking into The Claridges, a small four-star hotel in the leafy heart of New Delhi.

Stretch your legs post-flight in the neighbouring Lodi Gardens, landscaped around 16th-century royal cenotaphs.

Dancing with the Taj

Don’t rush Agra. Even with the new expressway, the journey from Delhi takes four hours door to door. Stay at The Trident for its superior service, pretty garden and excellent pastries.

The Taj Mahal is ridiculously crowded in the afternoons. Instead cross the

Yamuna River to Itmad-ud-Daulah’s tomb, a marble confection that predates the Taj. Afterwards take a 90-minute Mughal Heritage Walk through the farming community of Kachhpura, led by USAID-trained villagers. The walk ends at the peaceful Mehtab Bagh garden, which faces the Taj Mahal across the river and is the perfect place to watch the sun turn its marble pink.

The next morning, it’s time for the Taj, which opens at dawn. It’s worth getting to the East Gate around half an hour beforehand to be among the first to enter. Emperor Shah Jehan’s ethereal memorial to his beloved wife never fails to astonish. Guides are an unnecessary distraction. Instead sit on the lawn and marvel at its peerless perfection.

World Traveller 47

India destInatIons

Wander the magnificent City Palace complex

Agra Fort has more architectural treats for later in the day: a set of 16thcentury palaces, pleasure gardens and audience halls from where the Mughals ruled their empire. Shah Jehan spent his last years in a marble prison here with a framed view of the Taj Mahal.

Jaipur’s pink stone palaces

It’s a five-hour drive on a busy highway from Agra to Jaipur, the state capital of Rajasthan, but you get a break after only an hour at Akbar’s model palace in Fatehpur Sikri. It has astonishing verve and delicacy for a work in red sandstone.

Don’t leave without visiting the elegant mosque and Sufi shrine across the way.

Another extraordinary site nearer Jaipur is the 9th-century Chand Baori in Abhaneri, one of the largest stepwells in India. Jaipur has a plethora of good heritage hotels but the Samode Haveli gets my vote for its warm welcome, candlelit dining and 48 World Traveller

large, characterful rooms (the glassmosaic Shish Mahal suite is spectacular).

Awake early the next day for an early-morning walk dipping into neighbourhood temples and havelis and meeting all kinds of artisans. Jaipur is a rare planned city, laid out in 1727 on a grid. At its heart is the City Palace, still home to the former royal rulers. It’s worth the extra USD30 to tour part of the maharajah’s private quarters with a personal guide. Employ him afterwards to explain the Jantar Mantar, a garden of giant astronomical instruments including the world’s largest stone sundial.

Finish the day at Narain Niwas Palace. Several of Jaipur’s most stylish shops – Hot Pink, Anantaya and Kanota, to name a few – trade in its grounds selling real pashminas, block prints and artisan homewares. The convivial Bar Palladio is here, too: open from 4pm for sundowners and supper.

Rural life and revered lakes in Chhatra Sagar

After such a big dose of heritage, it’s time to retreat to the countryside. Drop into Pushkar for lunch. It’s a mini Varanasi with shrines and hippie hangouts set around a revered lake. Two hours to the west lies the inimitable Chhatra Sagar, one of my top five places to stay in India.

A luxury tented camp set above a lake, it’s impeccably run by brothers Harsh and Nandi Singh, their wives and cousins, who host campfire drinks and serve refreshingly light Indian home cooking.

The morning village tour from Chhatra Sagar is the best I’ve done in India. It’s led by cousin Raj, who introduces you to farmers, shepherds, potters and schoolchildren living in this deeply traditional community. In the afternoon, binoculars are provided for a nature walk around the lake, home to over 200 species of bird. The night sky is magnificent here.

destinations india

Leopards and kingfishers of Narlai

Narlai is a small town deep in the Aravalli Hills where leopards still roam and Hindu priests blow conch shells to announce prayers. Check into Rawla Narlai, a 17th-century royal retreat run by Gareema Gautam, a rare female manager for whom nothing is too much trouble. Climb the 700 steps to the top of Elephant Hill for a big-sky sunset and to work up an appetite for the hotel’s magical lamplit stepwell dinner.

Join a dawn Jeep safari in search of the leopards that prowl the granite outcrops. Horse riding and guided town tours are also offered but most guests flop beside the pool before heading out for a lakeside tea with the storks, spoonbills and kingfishers.

Vivid and vibrant, colours abound in New Delhi markets An Insta-worthy moment on Lake Pichola’s placid waters

Udaipur’s pretty palaces

It’s a beautiful rural drive through the Aravalli Range – via the marble Jain temples at Ranakpur – to Udaipur. Stay in a lake-facing room at Jagat Niwas Palace, the best of the ‘haveli’ hotels; its rooftop bar and restaurant overlook the Lake Palace.

Udaipur is the prettiest of Rajasthan’s cities and small enough to explore on foot. The rambling City Palace opens at 9.30am but wait an hour to avoid the tourgroup crush in the exquisitely decorated smaller rooms. There’s a superb collection of Indian miniature paintings near the end of the tour. Have lunch at lakeside Ambrai, one of the city’s best restaurants (in the grounds of Amet Haveli), before taking a boat ride on Lake Pichola.

New Delhi and the British Raj

Tourists are often taken to Old Delhi for a whirl around Chandni Chowk in a rickshaw and visits to the Red Fort (similar to Agra Fort) and the Jama Masjid (similar in style to Fatehpur Sikri’s mosque). The crowds, the air quality and the horrendous traffic can make this a disappointing day. A spin around New Delhi is a more rewarding experience so take a morning flight back and get ready to drive around the monuments of New Delhi, designed by Sir Edwin Lutyens in the 1920s as the new capital of the British Raj, before turning the

“It's a beautiful rural drive through the Aravalli Range – via the marble Jain temples at Ranakpur – to Udaipur” clock back 400 years at the tomb of the second Mughal emperor Humayun.

Finish the day with a spot of shopping at Khan Market, a favourite with expats: try Anoukhi for block-print tunics, Full Circle for books and Good Earth for clothing and homewares. Bed down for your final night at The Claridges.

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Mauritius destinations

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destinations Mauritius

Happiness for one

Our newly single man on the ground braves Mauritius, world HQ of the newlywed. Beyond the romantic resorts, he finds the island’s real heart Words: Neil McQuillian

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ats of cloudy formaldehyde. Sickly blue strip lighting. A certain musty tang to the air. Mauritius’ king of the dead had a creepy lair, all right. But where was the little rascal? Padding around chamber after chamber in vain, I peered this way and that, Indiana Jones-style, as I pursued my fevered mission through the diminutive Natural History Museum, a custard-coloured colonial villa amid palms in the thrumming island capital, Port Louis.

I passed displays of stuffed fish and shells.

I paused by wooden cabinets of tortoises and butterflies. And I was about ready to chuck in the towel when I turned a corner and finally, there it was, as promised in my guidebook, with its unmistakable beaky silhouette. In full morbid majesty, for one eternity only: a dodo! A real-life, dead-as-a-dodo dodo. OK, this dumpy dark lord hadn’t actually snuffed it. Nor was it real-life; the exhibit was man-made. But at this moment, a lonely museum geek on holiday in Mauritius, I wasn’t about to be picky. As I pressed my forehead against the glass cabinet, a museum attendant shuffling nervously, I gazed longingly into the feathery lump’s beady eye and felt a warm connection.

As I said, I was lonely. But how had it come to this? Me, having a moment with extinction’s

poster bird in the tumbledown capital rather than lounging on a paradise shore, scampering into the blue Indian Ocean and drying off over coconut drinks like a normal person, ie with my other half, the two of us blissfully just married.

Thing is, I’d had a better half. At least until the month before the big Mauritius trip when, abruptly, for our anniversary, she’d dumped me, a calamity that triggered a spiral of regression: days off work watching Eighties snooker championships on YouTube. Dinners of Findus Crispy Pancakes. Bon Jovi. Such was my state after a couple of weeks, I realised that solo or not, for survival’s sake, I’d better go – even if I only ended up rueful under a parasol, the days disappearing groggily out to sea, the setting sun calling time on my woes.

The last place I wanted to be was in a bright, buzzy nightclub-with-rooms kind of hotel, but luckily mine turned out to be The Residence, a slender-silhouetted, tropical temple of peaceful luxury on the soft-and-sandy east coast. Modelled on Mauritian plantation houses, it was all airy open-sidedness, the ocean breeze breathing in and out of its teak, taupe and white interiors, caressing the louvred shutters, eddying around the tropical hardwood easy chairs. Palms on the beach bowed to me. The glistening pool winked World Traveller 51

Mauritius destinations

Elegant refinement on one of Mauritius’ best beaches awaits at The Residence terrace

at me. I like to think one or two of the staff did, too. It was all colonial nostalgic and pleasingly un-now. I so didn’t need ‘now’ right now.

Settling in amid the rattan and ceiling fans, I crumpled into a snooze, lulled by the soft static of the distant Indian Ocean. That evening passed in blissful solitude, with lots of room service and channel-surfing. And next morning, the view from my room was promising: pale sand, turquoise waters and little else. But no sooner had I broken cover than they were upon me… The Honeymooners. Three Spanish couples I’d spotted coming off my flight – blatant newlyweds, all hips bumping, arms floppily coiling. Before long these six sultry figures were everywhere, blocking the spa reception in angelic white robes, or hogging the stools in the bar and giggling conspiratorially.

Tucked in a discreet corner of the lounge, I quickly 52 World Traveller

learned to converse with the barman by way of John McCririck-esque gesturing. The Spaniards and I had an understanding, too. We ignored each other.

Still, after 72 hours, I was desperate for a day away, beyond these loved-up shores. The barman read my mind. There’s plenty more outside, he said. Start at the capital, Port Louis, 40 minutes’ drive away: it’s the real Mauritius. And please bring me back some of those tasty dhal fritters: gâteaux piments. Next morning, I met my new-best-friend driver, fiftysomething Sunil, and was out of there before the honeymooners had even woken.

The Mauritian capital fizzed with life. In the streets around Central Market, where Sunil set me down, traders and shoppers swarmed like worker bees. The very fabric of the city – the masonry, hoardings, rusting drainpipes – seemed on the cusp of collapse, just about holding it together, but

destinations Mauritius

“I looked up from a lone lounger on the sands, as pinprick stars shone through a milk-haze of cloud, pondering the meaning of life, love and the loneliness of existence”

A coconut trader sells his wares from his bicycle

defiant with it. It sounded like me, and I liked to think I’d found an urban ally: partners in grime!

True, I was pining for my ex, but at the same time – for the first time in a month – I felt invigorated.

She wouldn’t have left her lounger for this excursion in a million years. And she’d have frowned at the Natural History Museum, thus depriving me of my great geeky session with the dodo. Nor, had we been together, would we have found the dinky nearby Blue Penny Museum, where I got to gaze longingly upon the 19th-century Two Penny Blue stamp – one of the rarest in world.

She’d have loved the food, though. Back out in the streets, women in voluminous robes sat like melting Buddhas, bags of nuts spread for sale around them. In the doorway of a flaking building, a girl flicked something into bags that she twisted and tied with well-versed wrists and fingers. It was like approaching a campfire at the mouth of a cave as I stepped closer to find the gâteaux piments I’d kept an eye open for: little falafel-style balls glistening with flecks of onion and chilli embedded in them like glass shards. I bought three for 20 cents and – with apologies to my man at The Residence – wolfed them all down. I followed them up, at a nearby stall, with dholl puri: a thick pancake rolled around mushy split peas and a tomato sauce not unlike spicy pizza topping. A sprinkling of dried coconut within gave it a lovely crumbly contrast, all for a slightly more expensive 30 cents.

And to finish? Something very sweet indeed…

In weakening sun, the late-afternoon air smelled of caramel on the drive back to the hotel across the great central plateau. It was a sea of towering sugar cane, a crop anciently tended

by African slaves, later by Indian workers. At times the growth huddled so close to the road, World Traveller 53

we might have been racing along a sky-roofed, green-walled corridor. Now and then, chimneys of volcanic stone marked out processing plants, mostly disused. “They’re kept as monuments,” said Sunil, who once worked the fields with his family. Pulling over, he showed old skills, whittling to a soft nib a length of stalk wrenched from the soil. As I sucked on it like an ice lolly, its nectar was as sweet and flowing as watermelon juice.

The next day passed in a similarly sticky blur: refreshments and solitude at The Residence, watching lovers gliding across the pearly sands or playing chess in fat wicker chairs below the resort’s teak rafters. That night, I looked up from a lone lounger on the sands, as pinprick stars shone through a milk-haze of cloud, pondering the meaning of life, love and the loneliness of existence. Eventually I came back to Earth and decided to give thanks to the sugar-cane workers by sampling some of the by-products of their harvests. Between polishing glasses, my buddy, the barman, brought me free gâteaux piments, which was nice of him given that he never got so much as a whiff of his share from town.

It was good, but I was chuffed it wasn’t a patch on the city’s version: real street food. Yep, I was ready to go local again. Destination, next morning: Aapravasi Ghat, a very special site on the western coast, which Sunil couldn’t wait to take me to. UNESCO-listed, it was no Machu Picchu – just a dry, barren, semiderelict compound. Yet almost 70% of Mauritians proudly trace their ancestry to this place. In the warm air I explored alone, my only soundtrack the buzz of arrivals and departures drifting over from nearby Port Louis bus station. As I wandered, interpretation boards planted in the ground told the amazing story of Aapravasi. The clue’s in the translation: it means ‘immigration depot’ in Hindi.

Here, the first indentured workers from India disembarked in the mid-19th century, after the Empire phased out slaves on the Mauritian sugar plantations. Britain’s ‘Great Experiment’, the shift to ‘free’ labour, kick-started an economic revolution, as millions from the colonies took to the seas for opportunities abroad. I stood amid the ruins and closed my eyes, trying to imagine the half-million individuals who, between 1849 and 1923, clambered up the ghat’s 14 dockside steps in search of a fresh start. I felt a tingle, the ghosts of old arrivals milling around me. Beginning a new life in Mauritius once meant a lot more than having a honeymoon.

I’d have happily begun a new life here myself, I reflected, as my last days drifted into one – even if no right-minded honeymooner was ever going to want me as a BFF. 54 World Traveller

Sugar-cane crops create towering green corridors along the island’s roads

destinations Mauritius

The imposing Morne Brabant is a UNESCO World Heritage Site

“Meeting the island’s most intriguing residents was reserved for last, on magical Ile aux Aigrettes, an islet just off the southeastern coast” Port Louis’ cityscape with the Blue Penny Museum in its centre

Whatever. The island’s enduring appeal lay beyond, in the physical beauty: the endless blonde sands, the little breeze-block homes along winding, sun-flickering ways, painted in pastel shades, festooned with Day-Glo bougainvillea. But also in the way such vivid cultural differences could cram into an island the size of Tenerife. The last day, Sunil followed the road southwest and, on a short stretch, the places of worship went: temple, church, temple, church. Near one of those churches, women in saris washed clothes in a stream. Then, round the corner, I came upon a Chinese grocer’s. When we reached Morne Brabant, the southwesternmost peninsula, I paid homage to escaped slaves who hid on its stumpy mountain. It’s still home to many Mauritians of African descent today.

Meeting the island’s most intriguing residents, though, was reserved for last, on magical Ile aux Aigrettes, an islet just off the southeastern coast.

It’s managed by the Mauritian Wildlife Foundation, which is turning it into a microcosm of the island of some 400 years ago – that is, pre-man, preextinction, and definitely pre-honeymooners.

Here, invasive species are being eliminated,

endemic ones coaxed back to rude health: geckos and gnarled giant tortoises and bois de rat, a wood with the scent of putrid rodents when it rots.

Once again I was in geeky-schoolboy heaven.

I jumped at slinking skinks, grimaced at enormous fruit bats wrapped in their wings like horror-movie chrysalises, and learned how the dodo was wiped from the big memory card in the sky when rats from early sailors’ ships made off with their eggs. Most of all, I was taken with Ile aux Aigrettes’ ungainly rose-tinged pigeon, a rare, distant cousin of the dodo. The one I encountered flapped around me like a prototype, as if striving to stay airborne.

I watched the bird struggle over the whoosh of the waves. I thought of what I’d left behind in England; what I’d be going back to. And something clicked. I felt the thrill of survival. A fresh start.

My progress was going to be about as smooth as that pink pigeon’s, but from today, I’d be stronger: a pink phoenix from the ashes, no dodo from the dumping. And so I returned to The Residence, to meet and mingle, perhaps, for one special last night.

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destinations Madrid

A mad

whirl

Behind its formal mask, Madrid has a deliciously wild streak. Bring a big appetite and forget the alarm calls for a spring fling that’s equal parts lazy and crazy Words: Dana Facaros

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here are trips you plan for months, and then there are the ones that start with an email out of the blue from a friend you haven’t seen in years that reads: “Can you come to Madrid next weekend? I’ve booked an apartment, but Jeremy’s mum broke her foot and he has to stay and take care of her. Please say yes!” It took me about five minutes to see if there were any available flights, before tapping back, “I’ll be there!”

I had known Astrid only a little when we first visited Madrid 15 years ago. She was a former ballet dancer, and our boss had sent us to the city for a book presentation. She was glamorous, but I was the one able to muddle through in Spanish.

Since neither of us knew Madrid, we’d tacked on a weekend to explore. Astrid turned out to be one of those endlessly enthusiastic people who make you laugh and do things you normally wouldn’t.

Maybe it would have been different had we gone to some stodgy city, but being together in Madrid – where a good night’s sleep is a rarity – was so fabulous that we always swore we’d do it again.

And thanks to Jeremy’s mother’s broken foot, it was now actually happening. We hooked up on landing and, as our taxi headed into town from the airport, the moon was rising over the city, as large, golden and round as a tortilla – a good omen.

“I always remember what fun we had years ago,” Astrid was saying. “And, unlike Jeremy, you don’t care if I look in every shoe-shop window.

And since he’s never been to Madrid, I’d have had to spend a whole day doing the Prado and

the Reina Sofía galleries, all the showcase stuff, rather than getting under the city’s skin. Oops!”

We both grabbed the side straps as our taxi slammed on the brakes, narrowly missing two elderly nuns who’d stepped into the street.

They waved merrily. Our driver waved back, then shook his head. “You know why this city is crazy?” he asked, as we wove back into the traffic. “It’s because of its name – mad, mad, mad Madreeeeed!” He sounded like a demented chicken.

Madreeeed, like New York, is a city where you immediately feel at home. ‘If you’re in Madrid, you’re from Madrid,’ the saying goes. This was brought home when the taxi left us at an address in La Latina, one of the city’s castizo barrios, to pick up the key to our lodgings. The elderly couple handing it over insisted we come in for refreshments, then bombarded us with questions. On our first trip to Madrid I’d had to do all the talking, but this time Astrid babbled away like a native.

As we left, I said, “Well, listen to you, Señorita Patata!” (the nickname I’d given her last time for ordering spicy patatas bravas wherever we went). “Spanish classes,” she said, with a wink. “And this weekend you’ll see it’s not the only thing I’ve learned!” Astrid had become a Madrid pro right before my eyes.

We dropped our bags at the apartment, and in five minutes had joined in the Friday-night tapas crawl down La Latina’s Calle Cava Baja.

It seemed half of Madrid was there, the young World Traveller 57

Madrid destinations

Caption please

Caption please

At Chocolatería San Ginés, they’ve been crafting the sweet stuff since 1894

“The April evening was mild and the irresistible scent of fresh grilled prawns and squid, the laughter, rapid-fire chat and music poured into the streets” and the not so young. The April evening was mild and the irresistible scent of fresh grilled prawns and squid, the laughter, rapid-fire chat and music poured into the streets. The tapas had improved since our last visit, too: after ordering her patatas bravas, the now-fluent Astrid asked locals for suggestions, leading us to creamy risotto with boletus, foie gras and poached egg at Casa Lucas (casalucas.es) – so heavenly we had it twice, sucking up every molecule.

We ended up in La Latina’s funky, main Plaza de la Cebada, sitting on the curb at 3am, talking politics with a group of earnest university students, with plenty of ‘¡Ay ay ays!’ about the current state of the world.

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I was so tired I could have slept in a bin, so we didn’t get out the door before 11am the next morning, stepping into a glorious blue day. As we walked into the centre, Madrid’s radiant dry light filled the Plaza Mayor, the majestic insideout palace of a square, highlighting each ornate detail. Giggling toddlers chased each other around the plaza’s stern equestrian statue of Philip III. Astrid had put me in charge of the day, saying she wanted to go to all the best places that we missed 15 years ago. At the top of the list was the Real Academia de Bellas Artes de San Fernando, a short walk down stately Calle de Alcalá. Most visitors to Madrid fall prey to the Prado/Reina Sofía/ Thyssen-Bornemisza triangle of art indigestion

destinations Madrid

before they make it to the Real Academia (realacademiabellasartessanfernando.com), missing out on some fascinating, quirky paintings.

Of these, five Goyas steal the show: dark scenes from early 19th-century Spain, among them The Madhouse, The Trial Of The Inquisition (which wasn’t abolished until 1834) and my favourite, The Burial Of The Sardine, on the surface a festive, masked dance, but full of menace, foreboding and rising hysteria.

Unlike Goya’s ‘Black Paintings’ in the Prado, there are no demons in these, which only makes them more disturbing. We headed for comfort food at Chocolatería San Ginés (chocolateriasangines.com), where they’ve been making hot chocolate since 1894, along with churros – crispy doughnut ‘snakes’ made to be dunked in cups of the thick, dark chocolate. As staff bustled amid mirrors, marble tables and photos of celebrities, the waiter raised an eyebrow when Astrid ordered another round.

“Her name is Señorita Patata,” I explained, upon which his brow rose even higher.

We were still laughing as we walked to the Buen Retiro, Madrid’s regal park of ‘Pleasant Retreat’.

First-timers spend so much time queuing at the city’s museums they inevitably miss Madrid’s

lovely parks. Glistening fresh leaves fluttered on the trees, flowerbeds glowed with technicolour pizzazz, and Goya-esque clouds bubbled in the heavens. Couples rowed around the lake under the huge wedding-cake monument to Alfonso XII, whose main claim to fame is that he managed to do no harm before he died, age 27.

We needed a taxi to reach our last wannasee, the Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida (sanantoniodelaflorida.es). Few Madrid virgins make it here, but the plain vanilla façade hides Goya’s most transcendent frescoes, the perfect antidote to his darker works. Here, the great master of magical atmospheres defies convention and places humanity in the dome high above a tumble of angels. And they, as Astrid pointed out, looked just like Madrileños with wings. We refuelled on squid-ring sandwiches, before heading back to the apartment for a rest. I didn’t think I’d sleep, but Astrid had to poke me awake at 10pm. She had big plans; her enthusiasm level had shot up from tailwagging dog to small child on Christmas morning: “I’ve been thinking about this night for weeks!”

It was a 10-minute walk to Lavapiés, the upbeat multi-ethnic district next to La Latina. Astrid

Enjoy Madrid’s most tranquil park from the sanctuary of the lake at the heart of Buen Retiro

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Madrid destinations

From Calle Cava Baji to Plaza de la Cebada, Madrid’s tapas scene is anything but boring

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destinations Madrid

“‘If you’re in Madrid, you’re from Madrid,’ the saying goes” had made dinner reservations at the small, austere, but excellent Taberna Badila, where we demolished generous portions of squid and slowcooked goat. After, we chatted in a bar, watching the currents of people out after midnight.

“Do you know what I loved most about Madrid 15 years ago?” Astrid asked. “Flamenco,” I recalled, without a pause. We had gone to see a touristy tablao at the Corral de la Morería, Madrid’s Carnegie Hall of flamenco, and Astrid had been smitten. “Ready for more?”

She checked her map, and led the way through Lavapiés’ mesh of lanes to Candela (flamencocandela.com), a grungy late-night flamenco bar. On the tiny stage, before a weathered painting of an Andalucían village, a guitarist, drummer and singer performed. At 2am, early

by Madrid standards, it was still fairly empty.

But even so, the pounding percussive guitar, drum and the cante jondo were powerful and passionate, tragic and cathartic. We sipped

on drinks, feeling the rhythm in our blood, in our bones. And then, as the night drew on and people had a go at dancing, Astrid sprung her next big surprise: she stood up, gracefully lifted an arm, bent dramatically backwards and took command of the floor. She had the attitude and gestures down perfectly, her red shoes pounding like a machine gun on the floor as she swirled.

When she sat down everyone applauded.

“Along with Spanish classes,” she exclaimed, after she caught her breath, “I’ve been taking flamenco lessons for years.” Dawn wasn’t far off as we wove our way back to the flat. Astrid, who had danced herself dizzy, was exhausted, but elated, as the epiphany struck her. “Remember that artist we met on our first visit to Madrid?

Now I understand what he said.” “What was that?” I asked her, dredging my memory. “Madrid is killing me, but it’s a great way to die.”

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Weekends There’s much you can do in jusT a few days

Get away In need of a weekend away? Then you’ve come to the right place; our Weekends section packs in all the essentials for a welcome escape. We hand-pick a selection of luxury hotels in the GCC perfect for a night away, and show you how to make the most of a long weekend in beautiful Nicosia. If food is your passion, we also take you on a whistle-stop gastronomic tour savouring all the delights of Jordan’s capital. From here on in, your weekends are all wrapped up…

Pictured: Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara World Traveller 65

A long weekend in…

Nicosia

With absolutely every element you might need for an idyllic weekend, we head to the largest city on the island of Cyprus, where April brings short-haul sunshine and hillsides bursting with colour

Of-the-moment The Market Company is the place to head for gastropub eats.

Try the smoked salmon and beetroot salad or go for the crusted seared tuna. Dining here is mostly done alfresco – be sure to book ahead. If you’re after something more traditional, try Conte Demokritos on Makedonitissas Avenue, where you can tuck into great mezze accompanied by live music every night of the week.

The old walled city of Nicosia, shaped like a star, is made for wandering.

Wherever you are in the city, it’s easy to orient yourself by finding the walls and moving around bastion by bastion.

Be sure to visit Famagusta, the most imposing of the three original gates, and once the main entrance to the city.

Tuck into gastro bites at The Market Company

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If you’ve got the energy, round off an evening with a visit to hot spot Plato’s.

From the outside it looks like an old house, but inside it opens out like something from Doctor Who into a huge venue with atmospheric arches and walls plastered in memorabilia that pulsate with music.

weekends nicosia

If you’re travelling with little ones then be sure to head to Countryside Park.

Surrounded by flowers, trees and acres of grass, the playgrounds are brightly painted with slides, tunnels and climbing frames, as well as vibrant picnic tables that make perfect lunch spots. PonyLand Adventure is the main attraction, where kids can enjoy grooming, feeding and riding friendly residential ponies.

Embrace the romance by hiring bicycles and taking a loved-up ride for two.

Head to one of Nicosia’s largest gems: the Athalassa National Park. Covering two hectares of land, it’s full of bicycle tracks, nature walks, picnic areas, tranquil lakes and a botanical garden. Pack some sandwiches and make an afternoon of it.

For the best vantage in all of Nicosia, make a beeline for the Shacolas Tower.

On the 11th floor you’ll find the Ledra Museum-Observatory, from which you can pick out the Green Line dividing the city in two. Although difficult to make out at

first, the profusion of Greek and Turkish flags soon give away its location.

Get your culture shot with a visit to the Old Town’s Leventis Municipal Museum.

This fascinating spot whisks visitors on a journey through ancient Nicosia’s history right up to modern times. Founder AG Leventis was an interesting character and contributed a whole lot to the artistic and cultural life of Cyprus. Having left his beloved island behind to go off and make his fortune, he then used it all to build up the country’s galleries and museums.

An informative visit is guaranteed.

For an afternoon of shopping, try Laiki Geitonia in the Old Town.

Here, you’ll find alleys filled with stores, traditional restaurants, galleries and boutiques nestled between traditional houses typical of the colonial urban architecture of the island. For browsing with a bohemian atmosphere, full of eastern Mediterranean promise, an afternoon here is well spent.

Find souvenirs amid the winding alleys of Old Town

Ask A locAl There are lots of cultural sights worth seeing – try the Nicosia Municipal Arts Centre, interestingly housed in a converted power station. If you plan on exploring the Old Town, get there early in the day as things tend to close early, or opt to bed down in The Sandstone, a hidden gem of a hotel that’s right in town.

Located within the Venetian walls, about a two-minute walk from the historic Green Line, you’ll be handily placed for sightseeing.

– kirakos Garavelas

Did you know?

Thanks to its subtropical climes, summer in Cyprus lasts a whopping eight months – from mid April right through to November – which means there’s plenty of scope for balmy summertime visits.

Where to stAy Located on one of the most upmarket, leafy avenues in Nicosia, the hilton cyprus is within easy walking distance of the mighty Venetian stone walls that surround the old quarter. The tone of this hotel is immediately set with Gucci and Cartier boutiques in the foyer, while gorgeous views of the city await you from the private balconies of each of the 294 rooms and suites.

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48-hour foodie weekendS

48-hour foodie A whistle-stop tour of what and where to eat from dusk till dawn Illustration: Adam Avery

Amman

From traditional Jordanian fare to contemporary cafés, this crossroads city caters to every palate imaginable.

Tuck into Arabian delights and Levantine dishes, or indulge to your heart’s content on Rainbow Street

day one

day two

Breakfast

Breakfast

Start your day off with some tasty falafel or a crispy manakish here. Despite its truly casual setting and prices that will

tiny little place in Shmeisani has been around since the Seventies, when people first started visiting to feast on tasty old-fashioned strawberry cake. Today,

Tucked away in the heart of Amman’s somewhat crowded city centre is Hashem.

make you wonder how the place turns any profit, King Abdullah and Queen Rania can often be spotted eating here with their kids in tow.

Lunch

If you want to hang with the in-crowd, then lunch at the super-cool Blue Fig near Abdoun Circle is a must. Fuelled by the idea of cultures coming together, this place is open from early morning until the small hours and is a fusion of food, drink, cultural entertainment and a buzzing atmosphere. Try the signature Figzzas.

dinner

Multi-award-wining restaurant Fakhr el-Din is the place to go for dinner, especially for a special occasion.

Occupying a renovated traditional-style house in the city’s Second Circle that was previously home to Fawzi Al-Mulki – the first Prime Minister of Jordan – expect Lebanese food to remember.

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Get your second day off to a great start with breakfast at Babiche Patisserie. This

it’s the place for a cup of coffee and a stuffed croissant sandwich.

Regional delights The national dish of Jordan is

Lunch

Mansaf so make sure you get a taste of this at some point over the weekend. Tender

On Rainbow Street, a destination in itself, Al Quds sells hands-down the best falafel you’ll ever taste, served on deliciously fresh French baguettes. It’s the perfect lunchtime pit stop before an afternoon spent wandering the stores, bookshops and souvenir stalls flanked by impressive 1920s-style villas.

dinner

Under a bright blue-canopied door, O’berg is deep in the heart of old Amman, where it’s lived for a very long time. Having played host to countless celebrities, tourists and friendly locals, it’s a very traditional Arabic place where the food is as tasty as it is plentiful. Go in the evening on an empty stomach and prepare to settle in for a while.

lamb in jameed – a type of dry yoghurt made into gravy – served with rice and topped with pine nuts, it’s delicious.

Halim Ahmed, O’berg hot Right now For traditional houmous, falafel and fava beans it has to be Hashem. Rakwet Arab is the ideal place for coffee, shisha and light Arabic dishes, while Pizza Roma Cafe has a whole range of Arabic food, live music and traditional Dabke dancing.

Raymond Gordon, Amman Pasha Hotel

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WEEKENDs Travel notes

Kayaking in the mangroves For a tranquil escape away from the city, Abu Dhabi’s natural mangroves are the perfect remedy Eastern Mangroves, Abu Dhabi

P

ulling off of the main highway from Dubai to Abu Dhabi, the inviting greenery of the capital’s natural wetlands come gradually closer and it’s as if a sense of relaxation starts to seep into our pores. Having left Dubai early on a Friday afternoon and whizzed west at 120 km/h, we’re seeking a serious change of pace. Luckily, at the beautiful mangrove forests on the outskirts of the capital, where the water runs smooth, bird calls float overhead and there’s not a 4x4 in sight, that’s exactly what’s on offer.

Disembarking from our car, we make our way down to the water’s edge, where our friendly kayaking instructor, Ali, is waiting with a smile. Having never tried the activity before, it’s obvious we’re a little nervous, but some decidedly calm instructions from Ali soon puts us at ease.

Climbing into a bright-yellow kayak, life jacket firmly secured, I grasp the long paddle, dipping it gingerly into the bottle-green water beneath me. With a push, I’m suddenly off – gently floating downstream. It doesn’t take long before I’ve got the hang of it; the sturdy size of the kayaks actually makes it quite easy to steer the vessel without wobbling around too much. And with just five minutes of paddling, we’re in the midst of lush greenery – the only reminder of

civilisation being the skyscrapers of Reem Island peeking above the horizon.

We navigate across the open water before making our way into the channels of the mangroves and I’m smug enough to note that by now I can really feel my arms getting a serious workout. All around, nature abounds. From herons and their young to black crabs, grunt fish and seabream, stay quiet and you’ll be rewarded with a whole host of wildlife spotting. Drifting through the mangroves, listening to the gentle ripple of water against paddle and weaving between branches, this really is an escape from it all.

After about an hour of paddling, we stop at a sandy strip of land that seems to appear as if from nowhere.

Clambering out of our kayaks for a much-needed stretch, swim and some cool refreshments, it feels a bit like we’ve discovered a piece of Abu Dhabi that no-one else knows about.

Back in the kayak and paddling towards the shore, the sun is slowly slipping out of the late-afternoon sky and turning the horizon orange. With the call of birds the only noise drifting through the dense mangrove forests, it’s the perfect end to our discovery of alternative Abu Dhabi and a hidden gem we’re only too happy to have stumbled upon.

Words: Hayley Skirka

World Traveller 71

Staycations

Sometimes you just need to get away from it all. Our round-up of fantastic places to escape to across the GCC will make sure you’re all set for a weekend of stress-free

Taj Dubai

Grand Millennium Al Wahda millenniumhotels.com/ alwahda

rotana.com/downtownrotana-hotel

ghmhotels.com/ en/muscat

Location DubAi

Location Abu DHAbi

Location bAHrAin

Location OmAn

In a nutshell

In a nutshell Ensure you’re right at the heart of the action in this smart city-centre abode that’s also connected to Al Wahda Mall – ideal for a spot of retail therapy.

In a nutshell In the very heart of Manama, within walking distance of the famous souk and Bahrain’s World Trade Centre, this 26-storey hotel commands awesome city views.

In a nutshell Overlooking the Hajar Mountains and the gorgeous Gulf of Oman, arriving at this palatial retreat is like stepping into another world of luxury. The perfect staycation.

Selected suite The Luxury Burj View Suites are sophisticated havens of blue and ivory with perfectly complementary views of the world’s tallest building.

Selected suite The Junior Suite is our pick for comfort at its very best. Enjoy gorgeous city views in this spacious 50 sq m room and let the friendly staff take care of your every need.

Selected suite Go for the Club Rotana Premium for over 55 sq m of space and gorgeous wraparound city views as well as complimentary breakfast, sundowners and access to the private club lounge.

Selected suite Plump for the Seari Sea View Room for oversized windows overlooking the shimmering water, and sophisticated interiors with subtle Omani details.

Cuisine Tuck into mouthwatering curries at Bombay Brasserie, Mediterranean bites and sundowners at rooftop lounge Treehouse or British classics at The Eloquent Elephant.

Cuisine Tuck into comfort food at Porter’s as you catch up on all the sporting action or enjoy international and continental specialities from breakfast until dinner at Al Wahda All Day Dining.

Cuisine Teatro is one of Bahrain’s most popular eateries – tuck into Asian and Italian delights or make your way to Flavors on 2 for all-day dining options and live cooking stations.

Cuisine Dine at The Beach for delicious seafood and epic panoramas or go to The Restaurant for fine dining under elegantly curved Omani arches and chandeliers.

taj.tajhotels.com/ en-in/taj-dubai

Towering above Dubai in style, this place is upscale elegance with just an occasional nod to its Indian heritage, great restaurants, a huge pool and awesome nightlife.

72 World Traveller

Downtown Rotana

The Chedi

weekends staycations

Anantara Sir Bani Yas Island sir-bani-yas-island. anantara.com

Location Abu DHAbi In a nutshell There are three resorts in one on this exotic wildlife-stuffed island, but our pick is Al Sahel – a haven of eco-chic charm, private plunge pools and beautifully rugged, nature-infused landscapes.

Selected suite The One Bedroom Anantara Pool Villa is perfect for a romantic getaway. A personal plunge pool and mangrove-lagoon view are coupled with bay windows and gorgeous rustic-luxe design.

Cuisine Our favourite restaurant is the Savannah Grill & Lounge for delicious pan-African delicacies in the surrounds of the whispering grasslands.

The St. Regis Abu Dhabi stregisabudhabi.com

Location Abu DHAbi In a nutshell Splendid, sprawling, refined and elegant, this is The St. Regis at its finest on the capital’s beautiful corniche.

Selected suite We love the expansive Al Hosen Suite on the 49th floor – with wraparound sea and city views, it’s just gorgeous.

Cuisine Drinks at Azura, Italian at Villa Toscana, allday eats at The Terrace on the Corniche or pop across the way to Catch and Asia De Cuba.

• Ask the concierge Chief concierge Erwin Rachim gives us some insider tips What’s your favourite restaurant?

Villa Toscana. It serves truly traditional, honest Tuscan food. Chef Stefano and the entire Villa Toscana family focus on authentic ingredients and tastes, the menus are always seasonal and they source unique produce.

The hotel’s standout feature?

It has to be our Abu Dhabi Suite – the highest suspended suite in the world. Located 220m above sea level, it’s captivating from the moment you step inside.

Tell us a St. Regis secret…

Our service is our greatest secret – all guests experience The St. Regis signature butler service – but beyond that our team is regularly praised for intuitive personalised service.

World Traveller 73

Abu Dhabi weekenDs

Spring fever in Abu Dhabi Big or small, there’s something for everyone in the capital this month

Until 4 April

Mother of the Nation Festival If you’re quick you can catch the end of this familyfriendly spectacular happening at Abu Dhabi Corniche. With a whole host of activities including painting, bouncy castles and obstacle courses for the kids, local traditional shops, jewellery making, pop-up culture and much more besides, there’s truly something for the whole family.

10-23 April

Jiu-Jitsu World Final Sporting fans should make their way to Zayed Sports City this month for all the excitement of the ninth Abu Dhabi World Professional Jiu-Jitsu Championship.

Hosted in the IPIC Arena, watch competitors from all over the country battle one another during what’s sure to be a thrilling afternoon.

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Until 6 April

Abu Dhabi Desert Challenge One of the world’s most prestigious international cross-country rallies, founded in 1991 by Emirati motorsport legend Mohammed Ben Suleyman, returns for its 18th edition this month. Expect five days of motorsport spectacular, kicking off at the Yas Marina Circuit and routing through the Liwa desert and majestic Empty Quarter.

April 28

Olly Murs British pop star Olly Murs is set to take the stage at Yas Island’s du Forum for one night only. Since shooting to fame in the UK’s The X Factor in 2009, Olly has recorded four multi-platinum albums, produced four number-one singles, and is renowned for his uplifting pop lulls.

TRAVEL TO TICK OFF YOUR HOLIDAY HIT LIST Places to go, things to see...

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Book at dnatatravel.com call 800 DNATA (36282) or visit us in-store Download our app

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DESTINATION INSPIRATION

Weekend offers To book any of these offers, call +971 4 316 6666, visit a dnata outlet or log on to dnatatravel.com

Clockwise from top right: The Ritz-Carlton, DIFC; Palazzo Versace; Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa; Al Wadi Desert, Ras Al Khaimah; City Centre Rotana Doha; The Ritz-Carlton, Bahrain; Souq Waqif Boutique Hotels

QATAR

Souq Waqif Boutique HotelS 2 nights from USD130 Special offer: 10% discount on room rate, 15% discount on F&B and 15% discount at the spa Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast daily Validity: Now until 14 May 2017 City Centre rotana DoHa 2 nights from USD210 Special offer: 15% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in a Classic Room with breakfast daily Validity: Now until 30 April 2017

76 World Traveller

BAHRAIN

tHe ritz-Carlton, BaHrain 2 nights from USD345 Special offer: 20% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfast daily Validity: Now until 31 Aug 2017

UAE

al WaDi DeSert, raS al KHaimaH, a ritz-Carlton Partner Hotel 1 night from USD245 Special offer: 10% discount on room rate, two children under 12 stay and eat for free with

one complimentary extra bed, complimentary access to RitzKids’ club and complimentary bicycles for the whole family Includes: Stay in an Al Rimal Pool Villa with breakfast Validity: Now until 30 Apr 2017

Special offer: 40% discount on room rate, 20% discount at the spa, plus two children under 12 stay and eat for free Includes: Stay in an Executive Suite Validity: Now until 30 Apr 2017

tHe ritz-Carlton, DifC, DuBai 1 night from USD170 Special offer: Receive a complimentary upgrade to half board Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room Validity: Now until 30 Apr 2017

BaB al SHamS DeSert reSort & SPa 1 night starting from USD137 Special offer: 30% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast Validity: Now until 30 Apr 2017

Palazzo VerSaCe DuBai 1 night from USD300

WEEKENDs Recommended

World Traveller’s recommended

Beach stay

Just a short drive from Dubai, the Fairmont Ajman offers an amazing spot for a family escape to white sandy beaches and beautiful turquoise waters

Where? Fairmont Ajman The LOW-DOWN: Laid-back and familyoriented, it’s the ideal weekend escape from the city. The décor pays homage to Ajman’s nautical past with playful sculptures and carefully chosen colour schemes and the vibe is decidedly chill.

The SCeNe: Perfect for families or friends, there’s a real sociable buzz about this place. The huge infinity pool is the focal point for most guests; expect kids splashing happily while the adults enjoy a few beverages in the swim-up bar.

The rOOM: The one-bedroom suite is a whopping 77 sq m with a separate living, dining and bedroom area, great if you’re staying the whole weekend and want that bit of extra space. It’s also located on the corner of the hotel, meaning the views of the Arabian Gulf are amazing.

TO DO: Being right on the water, there’s a whole host of water sports to enjoy, with everything from wakeboarding to jetskiing to the more peaceful kayaking and paddleboarding. The Octopus kids’ club is fantastic – you’ll get no complaints from the little ones – and golfers will love

the proximity to Al Zorah Golf Club. The spa and health club are also worth a visit.

TO eAT: Expect an array of international eats and live-cooking stations at Spectrum or for delicious Italian fare sure to keep the whole family happy, head to Gioia. For Turkish food accompanied by belly-dancing, it’s got to be Kiyi.

Our fAvOuriTe pArT: We love the friendly vibe of this hotel; the staff are epic. And with so many activities and dining options, you’ll want for nothing.

Find out more at fairmont.com/ajman World Traveller 77

Recommended WEEKENDs

World Traveller’s recommended

cIty stay

Set on the banks of Abu Dhabi’s peaceful mangrove forests yet just five minutes from downtown, this hotel has the best of both worlds

Where? Eastern Mangroves Hotel & Spa by Anantara The LOW-DOWN: Elegantly sprawling, driving into this place feels like arriving at some kind of understated Arabian palace with beautiful vistas of the infinity pool and beyond. Arched ceilings, polished marble and all-over natural tones induce a state of relaxation.

The SCeNe: This place is a pretty good mix of families and couples and is very popular with those visiting from around the GCC. 78 World Traveller

The rOOM: The spacious Deluxe Mangroves Balcony Room has a minimalist design peppered with subtle Arabian influences. The best part has to be the gorgeous views over the mangroves, but we can’t help thinking a balcony we could actually sit out on to enjoy said views would be a big plus.

TO DO: Lounge by the infinity pool and soak in the peaceful surrounds. Head out on a kayaking trip or cruise downstream on one of the popular doughnut boats, keeping an eye out for a whole variety of birds, fish and other wildlife. The spa

is a must-visit – try the Scent of Arabia experience for locally inspired wellness.

TO eAT: Ingredients is the gorgeous all-day dining spot and does an excellent family-friendly Friday brunch. Pachaylen serves deliciously authentic Thai bites in an intimate setting – go for the delicious beef panang. With towering vistas, Impressions is the place for sundowners.

Our fAvOuriTe pArT: Being able to go from midweek madness to restful serenity without having to leave the city.

Find out more at abu-dhabi.anantara.com

WEEKENDs Competition

Win!

A lagoon-inspired tropical staycation for two at Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort

I

f a dose of exotic luxury is what you’re in need of then read on, as World Traveller has teamed up with Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort to offer you the chance to win an escape to this tropical retreat on the eastern crescent of Dubai’s iconic Palm Jumeirah.

Two people can enjoy two fabulous nights in a gorgeous Premier Lagoon View Room surrounded by lush landscaped gardens and enticing lagoon pools.

Relax and enjoy 47 sq m of beautifully furnished rooms where huge windows offer exceptional vistas out onto the lagoons. After a day spent lounging on the private beach, retreat to your room for a refreshing rain shower or a peaceful soak in your huge bathtub. Enjoy everything that this Thai-inspired resort has to offer,

including delicious Asian bites at Mekong, crystal-clear swimming pools, a state-ofthe-art fitness centre and one of Dubai’s best spas. For a staycation to remember, simply answer the following question: What’s the name of the Asian restaurant at Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort?

A) Thai Bites B) Mekong C) Asian Eats Email your answer to easywin@ hotmediapublishing.com by 30 April 2017.

Prize includes a two-night stay for two people. Subject to availability, excluding blackout periods and public holidays. Prior booking is required. For more information on the resort, visit dubai-palm.anantara.com World Traveller 79

Suite dreams

Suite dreams

Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a suite whose character and style are sure to set you apart

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The Actor’s Penthouse at Corinthia Hotel London Hollywood legend Robert De Niro once said, “One of the things about acting is it allows you to live other people’s lives without having to pay the price.” And that’s exactly the scenario playing out at the Corinithia Hotel London on the stage that is the Actor’s Penthouse.

This 294-room London property boasts seven penthouses, all equally impressive and occupying the top two floors of the Victorian-era building in which the hotel is located. Each of the penthouses is themed and, for thespian lovers, the Actor’s Penthouse is the obvious choice – the good news being that no audition is required. Sumptuous and elegant, enter

the suite into an oak-panelled lobby where a sweeping staircase and chandelier whisk you through to a mammoth bedroom, coveted dressing area and spacious lounge. Cosy fireplaces add a sense of warmth and the private balcony terrace offers gorgeous views over England’s bustling capital. A bespoke Ralph Lauren lamp inspired by tripod theatre lighting and two Holly Hunt hand-forged side tables add an air of exclusivity.

With a personal 24-hour butler service, you really can live the life of the Hollywood elite and a personal shopper is on hand if you’re in search of the perfect red-carpet number. A stay at this London gem will surely bring a touch of theatrical glamour to your life.

26 APRIL - 2 MAY

The 27th Abu Dhabi International Book Fair offers visitors a rich programme of knowledge extending the message of reading, art, literature, culture and science.

Celebrate the literary culture of China, as we highlight its civilisation, authors and literary scholars.

Venture into the world of ‘Ibn Arabi’, our focus personality, and enjoy poetry recitals set to the tune of Arabic melodies and analyse his intellectual theses.

Official Airline Partner

adbookfair.com / 800 555

9AM - 10PM FRIDAY: 4 - 10PM ADNEC

Official Media Partner

Organised by

JW MARRIOT T® MARQUIS DUBAI

Elevating Luxury to New Heights.

Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is centrally located beside the Dubai Water Canal. Offering a spectrum of facilities for the most discerning travellers, it is the ultimate destination of exceptional taste featuring an array of diverse restaurants and lounges.

1,608 LUXURIOUS GUEST ROOMS AND SUITES OVER 14 AWARD-WINNING RESTAURANTS AND LOUNGES SARAY SPA FEATURING TRADITIONAL HAMMAMS, 17 TREATMENT ROOMS AND A DEAD SEA FLOATATION POOL STATE-OF-THE-ART HEALTH CLUB AND FITNESS FACILITIES 8,000 SQM OF SPECTACULAR MEETING SPACES For more information please call +971 4 414 0000 or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com

Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971 4 414 0000, F +971 4 414 0001 | jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | @JWDubaiMarquis | JWMarriottMarquisDubai