World Traveller - August'18

INSPIRED BY

ISSUE 124 | AUGUST 2018 | COMPLIMENTARY COPY

Epic Adventures

Produced in Dubai Production City

From an Antarctic cruise to cruising the Great Ocean Road

EID INSPIRATION DÃœSSELDORF OSAKA ALEXANDRIA

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Picture taken at Paradis Beachcomber Golf Resort & Spa

Picture taken at Paradis Beachcomber Golf Resort & Spa

Picture taken at Paradis Beachcomber Golf Resort & Spa

Picture taken at Paradis Beachcomber Golf Resort & Spa

Where Where Where Where the Where the the Beauty Beauty the Beauty the Beauty of Beauty ofthe of the of the place place the ofplace the place inspires inspires place inspires inspires inspires the the the Beauty Beauty the Beauty the Beauty of Beauty ofthe of the of the heart heart the ofheart the heart heart

Stay Exquisite Experience The St. Regis Mauritius Resort with the soft white sands of Le Morne beach, its turquoise lagoon and the stunning backdrop of the iconic Le Morne Brabant Mountain. This island sanctuary will transport you to a world of culinary delights, an award-winning spa and direct access to one of the world’s most exhilarating kite-surfing spots.

Š2018 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, St. Regis and their logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates.

The St. Regis Mauritius Resort Le Morne Peninsula, Mauritius t. +230 403 9000 www.stregismauritius.com

The St. Regis Villa Bedroom

Stay exquisite at more than 40 St. Regis hotels and resorts worldwide. @stregishotels

WELCOME NOTE

THIS MONTH’S TRAVEL COMPANIONS

The quest to experience something different, something new, something that stirs the soul, is at the heart of every great adventure we set out on as travellers.

This month we indulge our wanderlust by embarking on true bucket-list adventures, which take us from the great beyond in Chile’s otherworldly Atacama Desert (page 32) to the magical,

Managing Director

ice-coated continent of Antarctica (page 48) and a breathtaking

Victoria Thatcher

encounter with orcas and characterful penguins. Hitting the

Editorial Director

road, we also take a spin through the world’s must-do drives:

John Thatcher

heart in mouth as we zig-zag the route through Austria’s cloud-

Group Commercial Director

skimming High Alpine Road and rooftop down as we cross Bixby

David Wade

Creek Bridge on California’s legendary Highway 1 (page 40).

Managing Editor

Of course, adventures aren’t always epic, and even a weekend

Faye Bartle

escape can revitalise the spirit. Which makes this month's Eid al-

faye@hotmediapublishing.com

Adha the perfect time to get away and do just that. To help you

Art Director

on your way we've lined up ten good reasons to pack your bags

Kerri Bennett

(page 15).

Designer Jamie Pudsey

p22 CHEN KENTARO of Singapore' two-Michelinstarred Shisen Hanten

Wherever you go, we wish you a wonderful time and an

p24 Award-winning photographer and author CRISTINA MITTERMEIER

adventure to remember.

Senior Advertising Manager Mia Cachero

John Thatcher

mia@hotmediapublishing.com Production Manager Muthu Kumar

Find us at…

ONLINE worldtravellermagazine.com FACEBOOK @worldtravellermagazine INSTAGRAM @dnataworldtraveller

p25 Go-to skincare expert for a slew of stars, DR. BARBARA STURM

TWITTER @WT_Magazine

INSPIRED BY

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Stay up to date on what’s happening online and on our social channels on page 87

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Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494

p63 Egyptian-American travel photographer MENA GOBRAN

COVER IMAGE Penguins on the march in Antarctica.

Getty Images

World Traveller 3

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CONTENTS August 2018

26 Osaka

REGULARS

8

15

24

22

TRAVEL GOALS

GLOBETROTTER

CHEF’S TOP TABLES

A LIFE WELL TRAVELLED

From the Fork of Vevey to the Tunnel of Love — sights to make your mind wander

In this Eid Al Adha special, we round up ten ideas to ensure a great escape

Chen Kentaro of Singapore's acclaimed Shisen Hanten serves up his top eats

Celebrated photographer Cristina Mittermeier hails her encounters across the globe

26

84

SHOP MY CITY

25

THE LOCALS’ GUIDE TO OSAKA

SUITE DREAMS

A-list skincare guru Dr, Barbara Sturm takes us on a tour of Düsseldorf's shopping highlights

Our trio of in-the-know residents reveal why Osaka rivals Tokyo as Japan's go-to city

The Signature Suite that's always in vogue at Dubai's stylish Palazzo Versace World Traveller 5

CONTENTS

40

Bixby Creek Bridge, Big Sur

Big Sur, US

FEATURES

32

40

48

THE GREAT BEYOND

HIT THE ROAD

THE FROZEN ONE

Stanley Stewart reaches for the stars in Chile's vast and mystifying Atacama Desert

Set your soundtrack to volume ten as we take you on a spin through eleven of the world's greatest drives

The chill of a lifetime onboard a luxury cruise to the ice-laden majesty of Antarctica

WEEKENDS

63

64

77

A LONG WEEKEND

MY GREAT ESCAPES

STAYCATIONS

READER OFFERS

IN ALEXANDRIA

Travel photographer Mena Gobran picks out his most memorable journeys

Enjoy a well-deserved weekend away at these luxurious hotels and resorts

Take advantage of our exclusive deals for your next adventure

58

Olivia Cuthburt unearths the treasures of Cleopatra's city

6 World Traveller

PA R A D I S E F O U N D oneandonlyreethirah.com +960 664 8800

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TRAVEL GOALS

FORK OF VEVEY, SWITZERLAND

Embedded in Lake Geneva, this eight-metre-tall, 450kg stainless steel fork designed by sculptor Jean-Pierre Zaugg graces the shore in front of the Alimentarium, a food-themed museum. A stone’s throw from the famous statue of Charlie Chaplin (who lived locally in Manoir de Ban), La Fourchette has become a permanent emblem of the city – and a novel photo opportunity for visitors. Visit the museum’s permanent exhibition for an immersive tutorial in food across the world and through the ages before taking a stroll along the famous lakeside promenade that extends for 10 kilometres from Vevey to Château de Chillon. The view across the lake to the Alps and into Savoy, is nothing short of captivating.

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TAKE ME THERE

TUNNEL OF LOVE, KLEVAN, UKRAINE This enchanting tunnel, located in the tiny rural town of Klevan, is like something out of a fairytale. Framing a private railroad, which winds through dense forest for nearly two miles, it is considered one of the most romantic locations on the planet, hence its name. But despite the tunnel's otherworldly appearance, and growing tourist allure, it does has a more practical function. The railway serves a local wood factory and the comings and goings of the trains is what has carved the natural arch amid the trees. The best times to visit are autumn, when the leaves are rich in colour, or in the spring when the foliage is 50 shades of green. Local legend says that couples visiting the tunnels may be granted a wish, provided their intentions are sincere.

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TRAVEL GOALS

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TAKE ME THERE

VINICUNCA, PERU

Located in the Andes, in the Cusco region, Vinicunca mountain (or Rainbow Mountain as it is affectionately known) is famous for its multi-hued terrain. Situated 5,200 metres above sea level (in comparison, the elevation of Mount Everest is 8,848 metres), the rock formation is washed with seven different colours, from icy turquoise to rich golds and maroons – a natural phenomenon largely due to weathering and mineralogy. The vibrant vista is definitely worth the three-hour drive (it’s around 100 kilometres southeast of Cusco) and the good few hours’ hike it takes to get there, although the journey may pose too much of a challenge for beginners. Those who do reach the ‘painted mountain’, however, can lay eyes on millions of years of history, all wrapped up in one stunning rock.

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TRAVEL GOALS

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EID SPECIAL

Globetrotter 10 reasons to get out of town

1 Be one of the first to stay in London's finest luxury residences Looking out to London landmarks, it's fitting that the recently opened (June) Four Seasons Residences London at Ten Trinity Square lay down a marker as the city's best.

Spectacularly sized, designed to impeccable standards by Martin Kemp and housing up to four bedrooms and fully-equipped kitchens, the jaw-dropping Residences also grant guests exclusive membership (for the duration of their stay) of Ten Trinity Square Private Club, a benefit of which is a complimentary chauffeur service around town.

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GLOBETROTTER

4 SOAK UP SOME POP CULTURE AT THIS SUMMER'S HOTTEST EXHIBITIONS WARHOL: MECHANICAL ART A supercharged new Andy Warhol retrospective at Museo Picasso Málaga charts the creative evolution of The Popfather.

DISNEY: THE ART OF STORYTELLING Original drawings, watercolours, storyboards and production notes showcase the groundbreaking artistry behind Disney animation at Madrid’s La Caixa Foundation.

21 THE HOT LIST

MICHAEL JACKSON: ON THE WALL

Trending Places

Stay a step ahead of the tourist hordes by taking the inside track to travel this month If the heat has taken its toll, head down to Cape Town for cooler climes and abundant opportunity to enjoy the great outdoors.

Let the One&Only Cape Town – situated within the vibrant V&A Waterfront, from where it looks out to the majestic Table Mountain – be your base for a city adventure, before driving the Garden Route all the way to Plettenberg Bay.

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Everyone knows Beirut is a great place to be in the summer, but just an hour up the coast is the wonderful rustic seaside city of Batroun. With many restored buildings, winding, narrow streets, Phoenician ruins, (and the best frozen Lemonade in the whole region), there is much to love, not least the charming guesthouse Villa Paradiso.

The UK comes alive in summer, a fact no better illustrated than in the multicoloured landscapes of North Yorkshire.

One of the region's most picture-perfect areas is Helmsley, home to the fantastic Feversham Arms & Spa. From here, on foot, you can hike to Rievaulx Abbey or stand at Sutton Bank and see all of Yorkshire sprawled out before you..

Often overlooked for other capitals in its region, Jakarta is enjoying a bit of a renaissance, thanks in part to an emerging shopping and art scene.

Recently opened here is the Four Seasons Jakarta, an all-suite hotel with fantastic facilities and one the best Italian restaurants in the region. A great location to explore over a weekend.

London's National Portrait Gallery sees many a contemporary artist, Grayson Perry among them, explore the impact superstar Jackson had on them and the wider world.

Until August 27 you have the chance to enjoy the uniquely brilliant Edinburgh Festival Fringe, the world's largest celebration of arts and culture at which over 3,000 performances span comedy, theatre, circus, cabaret and music. edfringe.com

GLOBETROTTER

6 DESPERATE TO BURY YOUR PHONE IN THE SAND? YOU NEED A DIGITAL DETOX JACK'S CAMP, BOTSWANA A stunning tented camp in a 'tech-dead zone', activities at Jack’s are based on archaeology.

TIERRA PATAGONIA, CHILE With rooms free of TVs and Wi-Fi, you'll get to fully appreciate the emerald lakes and abundant wildlife that surrounds you.

TURTLE ISLAND, FIJI Disconnect from your gadgets and reconnect with your partner - this idyllic resort allows for only 14 couples (and no Wi-Fi).

7 Want somewhere you can sparkle?

5

FAMILY FUN

Best of both worlds You want a bit of peace and quiet, they want a lot of excitement and activity. Here are four hotels to suit you all...

ONE&ONLY REETHI RAH, MALDIVES

GRAND RESORT BAD RAGAZ, SWITZERLAND

CLUB MED, DA BALAIA, PORTUGAL

GLENEAGLES HOTEL, SCOTLAND

This beautiful island resort indulges all the family. Two age split kids' clubs and an allday ice cream parlour (pictured) will keep kids in smiles while you bask in your stunning surrounds.

A stalwart of the Swiss spa scene, 'me time' here is no longer parents only, thanks to a brandnew kids' spa where mermaid swimming classes and pool parties are de rigueur.

With clubs on hand to cater to tots through to tweens and teens, you can relax in the adult-only Zen Zone, before rejoining as a family to take one of Club Med's signature trapeze lessons.

Spanning 850 acres of Scottish countryside, this historic hotel excels in family activities, while kids who have begged parents for a pony can actually own one for a day.

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Last month saw the reopening of the Royal Champagne Hotel & Spa, the Champagne region's only luxury hotel which deals two big drawcards to guests: a stateof-the-art destination spa with pools indoor and out, and the considerable talent of twostar Michelin chef Jean-Denis Rieubland, who heads up the hotel's two restaurants.

GLOBETROTTER

8 THERE'S SNOW WORRIES IN THE MOUNTAINS Fabulous food, activities aplenty and air so fresh you can almost taste it - there's magic in the Alps come summertime At the heart of Alta Badia in northern Italy, Corvara puts on a daily light show in summer. Surrounded by the peaks of the Dolomites, it is these former coral atols that seem to spring into life when cast in colours of pink and orange by the dying embers of the setting sun. A spectacular sight you won't tire of, particularly when it ends a day of endless activity; cycling, hiking or singing your way through the meadows.

For two-wheel fanatics, Morzine in France grants you swift access to two bike parks which wind through gorgeous thickets of forest. But it's not all activity in the Alps. however, Seefeld in Austria ticks (and tickles) every box for those keen to forgo any sense of urgency, thanks to its myriad spas and wellness centres - and even wellness hotels. Hotel Klosterbräu & Spa is one such place, a former monestery turned five-star abode which also accommodates day trippers to its brilliant spa. It has an outdoor pool, but the best al fresco dip in Seefeld can be had in a forest-fringed lake. called the Möserer See. Bliss.

10

9

Food to fly for You don't often need a reason to skip the inflight meal, but we've got three, just in case OUT OF THE BLUE SONEVA FUSHI

CLOVER PARIS

ROVI LONDON

There's a six-month waiting list at Kenji Gyoten's Sushi Gyoten in Fukuoka, reason enough to sample the skills of this three Michelinstarred chef when he takes over the 5-seater sushi counter at Soneva Fushi's Out of the Blue (pictured) from August 18-29.

Of course, it's not difficult to enjoy a memorable meal in the home of haute cuisine, but doing so without having to fret about the bill is tricky.

Fear not. This sublime eighttable bistro is owned by multi Michelin-starred JeanFrançois Piège and offers set menus at a price you'll adore.

Chef, restaurateur and food writer (The Guardian) Yotam Ottolenghi opened this Fitzrovia restaurant last month to immediate acclaim. As is Ottolenghi's calling card, vegetables are at the heart of the menu, with tropea onions and whipped feta a fine pick.

Perched atop Sunset Boulevard, Sunset Tower hotel has been intrinsically linked to Tinseltown's glamour since it opened in 1931 (Gable, Garbo and Monroe were all guests).

A LEGEND In true Hollywood style, this month sees it REBORN show off a multi-million dollar facelift.

20 World Traveller

Girls’ Day at Saray Spa. Renew for the journey ahead.

Experience the ultimate in girly indulgence and retreat to the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai for 5-star pampering. Begin your afternoon with a 30-minute Facial or Back Massage followed by a complimentary reflexology session. Afterwards, savour a medley of sweet and savory treats with Afternoon Tea amongst the chic interiors of La Farine.

Daily, AED 300 per person

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE T +971 4 414 6754 | mhrs.dxbjw.spa@marriott.com | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com JW Marriott Marquis Dubai |

@JWDubaiMarquis |

jwmarriottmarquisdubai

*Terms & Conditions: Offer is subject to availability. Advanced booking required. Booking is valid for a group of maximum 6 people.

FOOD

CHEF’S TOP TABLES Szechwan sage Chen Kentaro can be found whipping up a storm at the two-Michelinstarred Shisen Hanten by Chen Kentaro at Mandarin Orchard Singapore

On my wish list…

DEN in Tokyo (jimbochoden. com), where highly-acclaimed Chef Zaiyu Hasegawa serves his own creative interpretation of kaiseki-ryōri, a traditional multi-course Japanese dinner

LE SOT L'Y LAISSE Paris

SAIKA Kyoto

This cosy eatery is certainly one of my go-to places when I'm in Paris. Its no-frills ambience belies the exquisite execution of classic French cuisine by a Japanese chef and never fails to surprise first-time visitors. My personal favourite is the chicken fricassee.

It’s simple yet delicious, just as comfort food should be, and certainly a reflection of the chef’s passion and incredible talent.

FAVOURITE DISH: Le Sot l'y Laisse style chicken fricassee.

Interestingly enough for a Chinese restaurant, Saika serves the best chicken consommé I’ve ever tried.

I find theirs to be skilfully executed: clear, golden, and brimming with flavour. This quaint eatery also features floor-to-ceiling windows, which offers up a view of the lush greenery outdoors (Saika is hidden in woodland), providing the perfect backdrop for those who like to photograph their food.

FAVOURITE DISH: The chicken consommé, of course.

BIAN SHI CAI GENG XIANG Chengdu This could very well be the best Szechwan restaurant in all of China and I feel privileged to have apprenticed there early on in my career. It’s famous for its Szechwan classics such as mapo tofu and roasted duck, but my personal favourite is the Szechwan-style pickled vegetable, which has layers of sweet, sour and pungent tastes balanced to perfection.

FAVOURITE DISH: Szechwanstyle pickled vegetable.

Mápó tofu

COME DINE WITH ME...

I was born into a family of celebrity chefs and my restaurant in Singapore, Shisen Hanten features family heirloom recipes, such as Chen family’s mapo tofu, crispy chilli chicken, and stewed fish fillet in super-spicy Szechwan pepper sauce. Each emphasises the seven basic flavours that give Szechwan food its boldness: sour, pungent, hot, sweet, bitter, aromatic and salty.

22 World Traveller

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This summer, the dream of a personal paradise is within reach. With 30-45% discounts, Sun Siyam is offering three Maldivian resorts to choose from - each tailored to suit different types of travellers and budgets. And, better still, families are more than welcome. At all three resorts, children under 15 years old can stay, play

and eat for free when accompanied by two adults under the same meal plan (valid for up to two kids).

So, what to do in one of the most beautiful places on earth? Absolutely nothing seems to work for a lot of the guests. Or anything from sunrise yoga to sunset fishing, and every activity in between such as snorkeling, diving, windsurfing, indulging in world class spa treatments and divine dining across all three resorts: The Sun Siyam Iru Fushi is all about 5-star luxury for the whole family, with summer prices starting at USD297 for a Deluxe Beach Villa.

Sun Aqua Vilu Reef is 5-star boutique

resort with an indulgent laid-back vibe, with summer prices starting at USD298 for a Deluxe Beach Villa.

Olhuveli Beach & Spa Maldives is an affordable 4-star deluxe property, with summer prices starting at USD281 for a Grand Beach Villa.

And if you're looking for something out of the ordinary, this October sees the new 5-star premium all-inclusive resort, Sun Aqua Iru Veli, opening on a private island with 125 villas and suites, all with private pools.

Book via www.sunsiyam.com with promo code “Eid promo” to get the best deals, valid until 31st August 2018.

World Traveller 23

PERSONALITY

A LIFE WELL TRAVELLED

CRISTINA MITTERMEIER

Travelling is an opportunity to step into 'other' worlds. You leave what's familiar and enter what's mysterious and new. Even though I travel for work and I find the bustle of airports and cities very challenging, the reward is to arrive at a place where nature and the ancient rhythms of our planet remain undisturbed. Having the opportunity to bear witness and to speak on behalf of those places, is what makes travel worthwhile.

I just came back from the island of Pico in the Azores, where I got the once-in-a-lifetime opportunity of swimming with blue whales.

Freediving to a place where you can meet the largest resident of our planet, on its terms, is the most amazing travel experience I have ever had.

I usually follow recommendations from friends, scientists and fellow photographers. Once you have traversed the destinations on the beaten path, it requires a lot of determination to find a path to those places where tourism has not yet arrived.

On my deathbed, I will not be thinking about a single experience, but about the countless remote villages and hamlets where I have been gifted great kindness and humanity. When I have been cold, I have been invited to the fire. When I have been tired, lonely, or sad, people whose language I did not speak and whose culture I did not understand, have offered me sympathy and companionship.

Being part of a global tribe has been the greatest revelation of my life as a traveller.

I love going back to villages that I have visited over and over again. Being greeted like family and watching children grow into young people, warriors become elders, and the ebb and flow of village life happening in a time scale foreign to urban dwellers, is what I love most.

I have a long bucket list. I would like to journey on a motorbike through the coastal communities of Southeast Asia, traverse the Australian Outback, explore the Mongolian steppes, travel by camel with the Touareg, see the coast of Africa by car...the list is endless and there is still so much to see.

I really enjoy meeting people and making friends.

When I am back home, I often think about the small boats, the rickshaws, the swampy trails that have taken me to amazing destinations. I also think about the generosity, the smiling faces, the kindness of people, who although very different to me, have shown me nothing but humanity.

Amaze by Cristina Mittermeier, is out now, published by teNeues teneues.com 24 World Traveller

Credit: Photo Š Paul Nicklen

Multiple award-winning photographer, marine biologist, passionate environmentalist and author of new book, Amaze

SHOPPING

Clockwise from left: Dr. Barbara Sturm: Molecular Cosmetics; a piece from the COS Parallel Lines collection; Breuninger Düsseldorf; and the Louis Vuitton boutique on Königsallee

SHOP MY CITY

Düsseldorf

A-list skincare guru Dr. Barbara Sturm highlights the shopping gems of Germany’s trendy fashion and arts district Düsseldorf is a very modern city, and when it comes to shopping, the most exciting area for me is the Königsallee, a very famous and traditionally beautiful street that’s steeped in history. All of the most famous luxury stores can be found there, including Dior, Hermès, Gucci, Prada, Louis Vuitton and Chanel, as well as high-street labels like H&M, Zara and COS. There are lots of little cafés and book stores dotted around, a concentration of Italian restaurants, and my clinic is located there, too (Königsallee 53-55).

Also in the neighbourhood, Breuninger department store (Königsallee 2, breuninger. com) has a great selection of leathergoods, while Apropos (Benrather Str. 15, apropos-store.com) is home to fashion, beauty and homewares curated by Daniel Riedo and Klaus Ritzenhöfer.

Another must-shop is Jades (Heinrich-Heine-Allee 53, jades24.com), which started out as a corner shop

in the old town and is now a favourite among the style set for the latest trends and coveted designers, such as Lala Berlin.

For keepsakes, I would go to Konditorei Heinemann for some sweets – there are a number of confiseries around town and a café on Martin-Luther-Platz 32. The company is famous for its confectionary and, in my opinion, makes the best Champagne truffles in the world. They may not last very long, but they will stay in your memory forever.

Alternatively, you can consider investing in a locally-inspired artwork.

There is a vibrant arts scene all year round but if you come in February a lot of the smaller galleries have exhibitions and sell local as well as international art – it’s well worth checking out.

“The most exciting area for shopping is the Königsallee” © Breuninger

Dr. Barbara Sturm’s Molecular Cosmetics line is available in the Middle East at Harvey Nichols and Bloomingdale’s, molecular-cosmetics.com World Traveller 25

LOCALS’ GUIDE

THE LOCALS' GUIDE TO

Osaka Move over, Tokyo: Osaka is Japan’s hottest ticket for food, culture and shopping – just ask these city locals

26 World Traveller

LOCALS’ GUIDE

THE SHOPAHOLIC Director of the Japan Institute of Culture & International Exchange, Aria Aoyama is a fount of knowledge about Osaka's eclectic shopping scene For kimono I like going to any of the big department stores to hunt for the perfect one. They have a wide selection, and you can trust the staff to guide you in the right direction – they will even do bespoke fittings for you. I have bought several yukata (summer kimono) that are absolute treasures.

Anime and manga enthusiasts will love the Nipponbashi district. While Tokyo's Akihabara is famed for its pop culture, Osaka (and the surrounding region) has also had a huge influence on the scene.

Many of the Japanese fashion phenomena (such as Gothic Lolita) were born in the underground clubs of Osaka, and Nipponbashi is the best place to buy anything from manga-inspired accessories to one-off anime artwork.

Authentic Japanese crafts can be hard to find, so I’d recommend scouring museum shops. My favourite is the Japan Folk Crafts Museum (mingeikan-osaka.or.jp).

There is a small, old shop called Maruyama Yushindo, which sells Japanese paper and traditional ink brushes, as well as beautiful calligraphy (Instagram: @fudeya_washinosuke).

Vintage clothing is becoming increasingly popular, and several areas have excellent second-hand stores. Spend the day exploring the districts of Minami Horie (for funky one-offs), Amemura (trendy American-style pop fashion), and Nakazakicho (the city’s hippest quarter, with knick-knack shops aplenty).

Head to Umeda district if you don’t have time to explore Osaka’s more specialist areas. Antique kimono, Japanese designers, western brands, quirky pop culture accessories… you will find everything you could wish for right there.

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LOCALS’ GUIDE

Opening pages: Minoh waterfall This page clockwise from top left: Colourful shops and restaurants in Shinsekai, with a view towards Tsūtenkaku Tower; Osaka Castle; and the National Museum of Art Opposite: Takoyaki is a popular street food dish

THE CULTURE VULTURE British expatriate Daniel Lee has lived in Osaka for 20 years, and is the publisher of Kansai Scene magazine – a guide to all that's happening in the city If this is your first trip to the city, Osaka Castle (osakacastle.net) should be top of your list. It has recently celebrated its 400th anniversary and offers not only a fascinating insight into the world of feudal-era Japan (be sure to check out its on-site museum), but wonderful views over Osaka Castle Park. Avoid the weekends since it can get really busy on its narrow staircases.

For high-brow culture, The National Museum of Art (nmao.go.jp) is the go-to gallery, but the temporary exhibitions in Osaka’s biggest department stores often feature some interesting shows, with 28 World Traveller

everything from original Moomins or Studio Ghibli artwork to LEGO creations on display. There are also countless small galleries in the city, featuring homegrown talent, such as the small but perfectly-formed Tezukayama Gallery (tezukayama-g.com), situated on the fashionable Orange Street in Horie.

For more off-the-wall fun, check out the Instant Ramen Museum (cupnoodles-museum.jp) in Ikeda.

Everything you could ever want to know about instant noodles is here, and you can even create your very own Cup Noodle flavour blend to take home.

Tsūtenkaku Tower is an iconic landmark, but don’t expect sweeping views of the city from the top. Instead, try the Sky Building in Umeda or the Tavola36 restaurant at the top of the Swissôtel Nankai Osaka for great night-time views. Alternatively, head to the Abeno Harukas tower in Tennoji (abenoharukas-300.jp) and enjoy the view from the top of the tallest building in Japan.

Osaka is famous for its pretty shrines, and my favourite is Hozenji: an oasis of calm in the otherwise chaotic Dotonbori area. People go there to catch five minutes' of peace.

In my opinion, the best way to explore the city is by bike. I’m still making discoveries myself this way and recently came across the bizarre Namba Yasaka Shrine in Namba. The enormous lion face that stares back at you through its gates will certainly stop you in your tracks.

Simply pedalling around the backstreets can unearth some real gems – be they places, people or things.

LOCALS’ GUIDE

THE FOOD GURU Yuma Wada is the founder of Ninja Food Tours, whose ‘Namba Food Crawl’ squeezes Osaka’s best street food bites into a belt-busting walking tour

1

Matasakubro. On date night, you

can’t go wrong with Matasakubro – a modern-style restaurant with a buzzing

atmosphere. It specialises in dry aged wagyu beef, one of the best steaks in the world. Make sure you order the set meal as they serve the best meat available on the day.

Find it: 2-13-13 Nagai, Sumiyoshi-ku

2

Tamaya. Takoyaki is Osaka’s favourite street food dish – a fried dough ball with octopus, red ginger and spring

onions inside. You will see countless food stalls selling it in the city, but Tamaya is by far the best. The owner-chef has worked in French restaurants and he makes some twists to his takoyaki recipe, such as adding lobster broth to the dough.

Find it: 1-3-4 Kokubunji, Kita-ku

3

Shinsekai Daruma. Another of our

street food favourites is kushikatsu: deep-fried meat, vegetables and

seafood on a skewer. Kushikatsu is originally from Osaka and it gained popularity in the 1930s among the blue-collar workers.

Shinsekai Daruma is the original Kushikatsu store where they started serving Kushikatsu for the first time in Japan – and it is still the best place to eat it today.

Find it: 2-3-9 Ebisu Higashi, Naniwa-ku

4

Yasuke. This is my favourite place to

Words by Hazel Plush

Super Sonic

Music fans can feel the beat at Summer Sonic Osaka festival on 18 and 19 August, which is being held simultaneously in Chiba (Toyko) and Osaka, with acts switching days so ticketholders don’t miss out.

The Osaka event is taking place at Maishima Sonic Park and this year’s headliners include Beck, Nine Inch Nails and Noel Gallagher’s High Flying Birds.

eat sushi and sashimi. It’s located in Sakai, south of Osaka where tourists do

not typically go. They do an omakase sushi set meal, which is devised by the expert sushi chef depending on the season. Yasuke’s tuna sushi is the best.

Find it: 1-1-18 Ocho Higashi Sakai-Ku, Sakai

5

Hankyu Umeda. In the basement

of this department store is a fantastic food hall, stuffed with local bites and

specialities from all over Asia. Stock up for a picnic, then head out to Osaka Castle Park to enjoy views of Osaka Castle while you eat.

Find it: Kita, Kakudacho

World Traveller 29

ADVERTISEMENT

Cool off in style Thanks to its dramatic mountain location and significantly cooler climes, summer’s a breeze at Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort

W

hile the UAE swelters, summer in the mountains of Oman is a much cooler affair — some 15-20 degrees cooler than the rest of the GCC, in fact.

It’s here, perched 2,000 metres above sea level on Oman’s landmark Green Mountain and a mere two-hour drive from Muscat or a five-hour drive from Dubai or Abu Dhabi, that you’ll find the magnificent Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar, one of the world’s highest luxury resorts.

This is where a spectacular canyon-edge pool affords soul-stirring views, where you can gaze at the celestial splendour from the same spot in which the late Princess Diana once stood and stargazed, and where the revitalizing mountain air allows for ample al fresco activity at a time when elsewhere in the GCC you’d seek refuge indoors. That means that those imbued with a sense of adventure can immerse themselves in their remarkable surrounds via wadi hikes, mountain biking, or even a spot of sky running, which leads joggers up and along a 10km route to a finishing point of Hail Yemen and the prize of heart-tugging

30 World Traveller

views. The daring can head to the recently launched Ultimate Jabal Activty Wall to dangle from Oman’s first mountain zipline or climb the highest route in the Middle East, which snakes for 200 metres across the cliff edge.

But outdoor pursuits aren’t limited to the adventurous. Here you can also be taught how to perfect your landscape shots by joining a class run by a respected photographer, learn how to paint your stunning surrounds, or perform your sun salutations at a yoga class as the sun actually rises before you.

The resort is also home to one of the finest spas in the Middle East, where the Revitalising Pomegranate Journey utilises the abundant pomegranates growing ripe around the resort. And six splendid restaurants and lounges, which provide a choice of cuisines and exciting settings — from a fine dining Arabian grill concept in a central fort tower and traditional Italian fare offered poolside, to tailor-made private dining experiences, canyon-side.

There’s simply nowhere better to the beat the heat this summer.

BEAT THE HEAT OFFER This summer, GCC residents in need of relief from the rising temperatures can relish in the resort’s elevated luxury for less thanks to exclusive savings as part of the resort’s #Beat The Heat campaign. This exclusive GCC resident offer provides discount of up to 30% off the Best Flexible Rate, for which guests can choose to stay in one of the 33 villas which boast private temperature-controlled infinity pools, or select from a wide selection of Premier and Deluxe Rooms that offer jaw-dropping views of the dramatic canyon. The offer also includes daily breakfast and dinner plus 20% off selected Anantara Spa treatments and additional food and beverage.

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The master bedroom within the Royal Mountain Villa

Entrance to Anantara Spa The view from the Cliff Pool Villa

Mountain views from all-day dining restaurant Al Maisan

Ultimate Jabal Activity Wall

World Traveller 31

THE GREAT BEYOND Thanks to Emirates’ new direct flights to Santiago, you can twin a city stay with an out-of-this-world experience in the nearby Atacama Desert

32 World Traveller

NORTHERN CHILE

F

rom the car, the desert looked like the surface of Mars, desolate and pockmarked.

The guide obviously read my mind. ‘NASA uses the Atacama Desert to test instruments for future Mars missions,’ Jorge said. I wasn’t sure this was a recommendation for a holiday destination.

‘What is there to do here?’ I asked, gazing out the window, trying not to sound too sceptical. ‘In the event that I am not planning a Mars mission.’

Too much to do, my friend,’ he said.

‘You want to explore the Atacama?

You could spend a month here and do something different every day.

Welcome to a whole new world.’

Deserts tend to divide opinions. People veer between horror and enchantment.

Some find the apparently lifeless expanses the geographic equivalent of Morris dancing — inexplicable and mind-numbingly dull.

Others see sensual beauty, a seductive simplicity and grandeur, a place to jettison anxieties, to revisit life’s priorities, to embrace the sublime, while eating dates

World Traveller 33

NORTHERN CHILE

on the top of a sand dune.

The Atacama Desert in northern Chile conforms to the stereotype — vast, arid and mystifying. It is the second- largest desert in South America. Wedged between the Pacific and the great wall of the Andes, it stretches a thousand kilometres north to south. It is also the highest and driest desert in the world.

There are places in the Atacama where no rain has fallen in 400 years. In this extraordinary place, archaeologists have discovered the world’s oldest mummies, wrapped and buried here 5,000 years BC, and still perfectly preserved.

But the Atacama has something else going for it besides top-notch mummification. The Atacama not only looks like something from outer space, it is also the best place on Earth from which to contemplate outer space. Every self-respecting astronomical institution on Earth has built observatories in its clear, elevated atmosphere. People don’t just come to the Atacama to embrace the sublime.

They come to explore the Universe.

The town of San Pedro de Atacama

34 World Traveller

was a welcome diversion. A small windblown place, it evoked the American West.

(In about 1850.) I kept expecting Clint Eastwood to turn up in a poncho and a scowl. Adobe buildings, whitewashed and flat-fronted, lined the dirt streets.

Dust devils blew round corners. Jugglers, buskers and mountebanks, presumably just off the morning stagecoach, plied their trades. In the central square, a couple of guys were hunkered down at the base of the pepper trees, hats tipped over their eyes, probably asleep, possibly dead. An adobe church stood to one side, the lone bell in its tower tolling for evening mass.

The Awasi Inn was a quick reality check. No-one in the Old West ate pistachio-crusted yellowfin tuna for lunch, accompanied by a fine Sauvignon from the Central Valley. The best of San Pedro’s upmarket desert hotels, the Awasi was a luxurious oasis within an oasis, a sybaritic retreat behind high adobe walls.

I confess that my initial response was just to hide out here. I wanted to sink into the pool, sunbathe on the loungers, linger over afternoon tea on a deep sofa, indulge in some decadent treatment or other in the spa. But, unfortunately, Jorge returned after lunch. The Awasi prides itself on its

personalised guiding services, and Jorge wanted to discuss desert excursions. I dragged myself away from a delicious slice of carrot cake to look at maps that seemed to contain nothing but vast blanks.

For the next three days, we explored the Atacama. And something happened. I fell for it. Scepticism was swept aside. Call me a hopeless romantic, but by the end of the first day, I was madly in love with the desert. The Atacama had seduced me. It was not just the sheer drama of the landscape, so extreme, so vivid, so intense. It was not just the thrilling simplicity, a place stripped of all fussy details leaving just skeletal form. It was the fathomless distances, the staggering scale of the place. In the Atacama you could see for hundreds of kilometres with the slightest turn of the head.

As it turned out, the Atacama was only pretending to be a flat monoculture of gravel and sand. In its vast reaches there are dozens of landscapes. Jorge and I went hiking in Moon Valley, through twisting canyons and across valleys enclosed by wind-eroded escarpments.

It was a world rich with mineral colour — rose, verdigris, sapphire, malachite, copper, cobalt blue, graphite

NORTHERN BUENOS CHILE AIRES

Caption please xxx

‘The great salt flats, a surreal white world where distant flamingoes stepped elegantly through shimmering mirages’

— and convoluted rock formations.

From a high ridge we gazed out over stretches of sand where the Atacaman winds had traced abstract geometries of lines and patterns. In the middle distance, stands of carob trees and green patches of corn marked farmsteads watered by springs and by snow melt from the Andes.

To the east, the Andes, etched against the bluest of skies, carried the evening light on their flanks. Half an hour later we were watching the sun slip away beyond a horizon several hundred kilometres away.

Another day, we drove south to the Salar de Atacama, the great salt flats, a surreal white world where distant flamingoes stepped elegantly through shimmering mirages. On the third morning, with a dawn chorus of birds serenading from the desert scrub, we drove up to the El Tatio geysers, where 80 steaming jets shot upwards from calcified rock amid hot pools and bubbling mud. I donned a swimsuit and sank into a steaming mineral pool like a happy hippo. Instagrammers should beware, though: a Belgian tourist died here in 2015 when she backed into a hot geyser while trying to get a better selfie angle.

But my favourite excursion was a

long drive south to the desert lakes, las lagunas, on a road as straight as a drawn line past the sensuous shadow-sculpted curves of the Andes, past grazing vicunas (small llamas) and Inca terracing still used for the cultivation of alfalfa and potatoes. At Miscanti and Minigues, the lake-waters danced with light. It was a place of perfect simplicities. All unnecessary detail, all elaboration, all fussiness had been stripped away, as if the earth has been skinned, leaving only the elegant fluid lines of this rare landscape, overlooked by Andean summits, beneath a cloudless sky.

On the final day, I went to party with the dead. We took a mountain road that clung to the canyon walls of the Rio Grande River. Below us, the green strip of vegetation along the river wound through a wilderness of rock and stone. We were on an ancient Inca road that connected the Atacama to the high altiplano beyond.

At the end of the road, we came to a tiny village of narrow twisting streets lined with high adobe walls. It was the Day of the Dead, the second day of November and, as in most of South America, the villagers were World Traveller 35

This image: Geysers de La manana (morning geysers) Right: Atacapena woman in the high Atacama Desert

36 World Traveller

NORTHERN CHILE

Credit: Stanley Stewart /Sunday Times Travel Magazine/ News Licensing

‘Our own galaxy, the Milky Way, consisting of 200 billion stars, turns out to be little more than a cubby-hole in the Universe’ convinced the dead liked nothing more than a serious knees-up.

It didn’t really matter that my own grandparents were buried several thousand kilometres away. I, too, must sing to the ancestors. I opted for the Skye Boat Song. The locals gazed at me blankly as Jorge translated. These were people who had never seen an island or an ocean or a boat. But keen to be supportive, after their initial bemusement, they clapped and cheered my efforts. Elaborate picnics were laid out by the gravesides in case the dead were peckish after all the music. Then the living stumbled downhill, battered trumpets blaring, to the churchyard where cuts of llama meat were grilled and drinks consumed.

But the best part of the Atacama wasn’t in the Atacama at all. It was millions of light years away.

The Atacama merely provided the platform from which to see it.

With the world’s highest and driest

atmosphere, this desert has become a prime location for observatories, including ALMA, the world’s largest, a joint project by the Americans, the Canadians, the EU, and the Japanese. On my last night, after dinner, I adjourned to a private observatory to take a look at the Universe.

The observatory had the air of some science-fiction installation. The buildings were in semi-darkness. Men in uniform black T-shirts moved about the platforms with green and blue torches so as not to create light pollution. Everyone spoke in hushed tones, as if aliens were listening.

Along dark boardwalks, my astronomer guide led me to an upper room equipped with a telescope the size of a small truck. It looked like the kind of instrument a Bond villain might use to plot the world’s destruction, complete with levers, keyboards and malevolent dials. With a remote, he turned the great machine slowly on its axis as panels in the roof opened to World Traveller 37

NORTHERN CHILE

Right: The Mano del Desierto (The Hand of the Desert), is a 36-feet high sculpture designed to represent the vulnerability of humankind

‘The Atacama not only looks like something from outer space, it is also the best place on Earth from which to contemplate outer space’ reveal a night sky swarming with stars.

I peered through the eyepiece. I was looking at the Virgo Cluster, said to contain as many as 2,000 galaxies, with each galaxy containing potentially billions of stars. It was 65 million light years away, which meant that the light reflected through the lens at this very moment had left the cluster of stars some 63.5 million years before man stood upright.

While I looked at points of light glowing in the viewfinder, the guide whispered one astonishing fact after another. Our own galaxy, the Milky Way, consisting of 200 billion stars, turns out to be little more than a cubby-hole in the Universe.

There are 100,000 million galaxies in the part of the Universe that we can observe, the guide whispered. But there may be two trillion galaxies in the entire Universe, each of them with hundreds of billions of stars. After half an hour of this stuff, I needed a lie-down. If the scale of the Atacama was thrilling, the scale of space was making my head spin.

I asked about habitable planets.

‘We say habitable planets are in the Goldilocks Zone,’ the astronomer purred.

‘Planets close enough to a star and with sufficient atmospheric pressure to maintain liquid water on their surface.

In other words, conditions that may be roughly comparable to those of Earth.’

‘How many are there?’

‘The Kepler space mission brought back a lot of new data. We think there are now about 40 billion habitable planets. But only 11 billion of them may be orbiting sun-like stars.’

‘Billion?’ I asked, unable to get my head round the numbers.

38 World Traveller

‘Yes, that’s right — 11 billion.’

Such is the Universe: beyond imagining.

I walked back to Awasi along the edge of the desert. A moon had risen over Licancabur, the volcano profile like a child’s drawing. Ghostly in silver light, tilting away to infinities, the desert seemed to go on forever.

But it didn’t. In the greater scheme of things, it turned out that it hardly went any distance at all. Everything was relative.

My Atacama had shrunk. I knew now that the great desert was hardly more than a speck of dust on the telescope lens.

In the course of a week I had been on a rollercoaster of shifting perspectives.

Back at Awasi, within the splendid confinement of its walls, the barman was polishing glasses. He was from the tellme-your-troubles school of bar-tending.

‘How was your evening?’ he asked.

‘Astonishing. Mind-boggling.

Unbelievable,’ I say.

I was not the first guest he had seen staggering back from the observatory in a state of confused amazement.

‘It is hard to fathom,’ I muttered.

‘The Universe... Infinity... 65 million light years...’

‘Better not dwell too long on the Universe,’ he said. ‘You are in the Atacama.

That is enough space to get your head around. How about a picnic tomorrow?

There are sand dunes you can visit.

We will pack bubbly for you, and some dates. Believe me, it will be sublime.’

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com

World Traveller 39

Caption

Hit the road Buckle up as we speed through eleven exhilarating road trips guaranteed to sate your lust for adventure

40 World Traveller

ROAD TRIP

Great Ocean Road, Australia

Short cut: Against the backdrop of the rainforest-covered Otway Ranges, neardeserted sandy beaches and striking rock formations, this is one of the world’s finest coastal road trips.

How to do it: This varied, sunny route begins at Torquay, Victoria’s surf and beach-worship capital, then carries you through 150 miles of jaw-dropping scenery along the B100 towards the finish at Warrnambool.

En route, enjoy the winding, 25mile section to Apollo Bay, the 1,417ft rainforest-rich Otway Ranges, a short diversion via dirt track to the Cape Otway Lighthouse, a beacon on these shores since 1848, and Melba Gully State Park, known for its dense rainforest.

The most sensational coastal stretch of all is at Port Campbell National Park, where magnificent rock pillars up to 200ft high — the Twelve Apostles (reduced to eight by natural erosion) — line the coast.

Garden Route, South Africa

Great Ocean Road

Short cut: Cradled between winding coastline and mountain, this 120mile route takes the best South Africa has and wraps it up in a hugely varied road trip offering lagoons, deserted beaches, forests and lakes.

How to do it: The old-fashioned harbour town of Mossel Bay marks the start of this drive, before it heads north-east on the N2 to the town of George, with its formal, colonial buildings, at the foot of the Outeniqua mountain range.

The mood changes as you enter lush, 13-mile Wilderness National Park with its sprawling lakes, lagoons, wetlands and teeming bird life, before reaching the seaside resorts of Sedgefield and Buffalo Bay, followed by Knysna with its bars and restaurants, perched on a forest-encircled lagoon. Plettenberg Bay offers beaches before you reach the mouth of Storms River and enjoy the trip for a second time — travelling back the way you came.

World Traveller 41

Hardknott Pass, England

Short cut: The signs at the entry to this challenging, high-rise road between Eskdale and Wrynose Pass in the Lake District say it all: 'Extreme Caution.

Narrow route. Severe bends.'

How to do it: This section is the icing on the cake on a zigzagging, DIY road trip that should also take in the ‘honeypot’ areas of the Lake District, such as Windermere, Coniston Water and pretty villages such as Keswick and Grasmere.

For the main event, start at Little Langdale and warm up your motoring skills on twisting Wrynose Pass — you know you’ve reached even tougher Hardknott Pass when you see those signs — and then tackle the network of hairpin bends.

Stop frequently to catch your breath and soak up the views. Eventually you reach the final, daunting descent, a test of driver, machine and brakes. When you reach the end, turn round and do it all again, the other way. Just for fun.

42 World Traveller

North Coast Drive, Northern Ireland

Short cut: 130 miles of craggy coast with the Giant’s Causeway as its star sighting.

How to do it: Heading north from Belfast, the M2/A2 kisses the coast and the Causeway Coast Route, past Carrickfergus Castle and Glenarm, where the landscape becomes in-

creasingly wild. After isolated Garron Point turn left, climbing steeply into remote Glenariff Forest Park.

Drive on past mighty Tievebulliagh mountain, through the pretty towns of Cushendall and Cushendun, following signs to isolated Torr Head. Ballycastle harbour is followed by romantic, ruined Dunluce Castle… a mere curtain-raiser for the mind-blowing Giant’s Causeway.

ROAD TRIP

Trollstigen, Norway

Short cut: Eleven hairpin bends, mountain views, cascading waterfalls, steep inclines and awe-inspiring glimpses of the twisting four-mile route draw thrill-seeking travellers to Trollstigen, which translates to Trolls' Path in English.

How to do it: This narrow, sharply twisting mountain road is studded with strikingly designed viewing platforms.

The best views are at the 2,300ft plateau where there’s a visitor centre, but the main joy comes from the sense of isolation, the buzz from negotiating the well-surfaced twists and turns — and wonderment at the houses clinging to the mountainside.

Start at Andalsnes in Rauma, following signs along Country Road 63 until you reach the village of Valldal and draw breath. Be sure to allow three hours to include frequent sightseeing stops.

The route is closed from late autumn through winter.

North Coast 500, Scotland

Short cut: Touted as Scotland’s answer to Route 66, this atmospheric, circular tour is actually much more varied than its US cousin, uniting some of the Highlands’ most remote roads. Start at Inverness, venture up the craggy west coast then back via the rugged north and east coasts.

Marvel at mountain, loch, castle and coast all the way.

How to do it: With Inverness behind you you’re soon speeding past Loch Luichart with towering mountains all around, giving you a taste of the drama — and joyously twisting roads — to come.

Enjoy untamed, windswept views of the Highlands between Ullapool and

Durness, before Orkney raises its head from the choppy North Sea, and near deserted roads carry you on to John O’Groats.

While navigating the singletrack roads of the east coast you'll encounter the mysterious Grey Cairns of Camster — among Scotland’s oldest stone monuments.

World Traveller 43

ROAD TRIP

Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse

Grossglockner Hochalpenstrasse, Austria

Short cut:This cloud-piercing route is only 30 miles long but it’s one of Europe’s best, with views over 37 mountains.

How to do it: The ‘High Alpine Road’, as it is known, winds through the Hohe Tauern National Park. Start at Bruck in the Salzburg valley, continuing through the Ferleiten toll entrance. You are soon greeted by stunning, endless views as the road climbs ever upwards to 8,215ft — with 36 challenging hairpin bends.

Passengers (at least) can gaze out on 44 World Traveller

a frequently changing vista of lakes, glaciers, pine-clad hills, dramatic, rocky cliff faces and lush meadows.

Pause for a visit to the Alpine Nature Show museum, highlighting the area’s natural ecosystems, and the ‘Building of the Road’ exhibition next to the Fuscher Lacke, recording the challenges faced by the labourers who, in 1935, built the ‘most beautiful road in the world’. The journey ends when you reach Carinthia.

The route is open until early November only, due to weather conditions.

Côte d'Opale, France

Short cut: A European ‘starter’ road trip packed with colour and interest.

How to do it: The beautiful Côte d’Opale is nestled between Calais and Boulogne, and boasts 26 miles of breathtakingly craggy, verdant, coastline. Short but stunning.

Its quiet, restrained identity has long been prized by the French, who love its informal seafood restaurants hidden in fishing villages, its miles of sandy beaches and its intriguing coves. Find it by following the D940 south from Calais.

Discover pretty beaches — and overnight stops — along the way at Audresselles and Ambleteuse and the surfing mecca of Wissant, before dropping into Boulogne, home to 1,000 shops, 200 restaurants and traditional markets.

Stelvio Pass, Italy

appetite in stunning Stelvio National

Short cut: It’s often ranked as the

Park, before swooping up the Stelvio

ultimate test of driver and machine and

Pass’s famous wall of switchbacks.

with 60 hairpin bends charging past the

Enjoy some of Europe’s most dramatic

snowy peaks of the Eastern Alps for 15

scenery from the summit, before heading

miles (48 of them on its steep northern

back down the pass towards Bormio.

face alone as you climb 9,045 feet) that’s

The descent isn’t as thrilling but with its

no exaggeration.

sharp bends, picturesque views and sheer

How to do it: Offering dizzying views

drops it’s still up there with the best.

as you pick your line through bend after

Start early in the day, before hordes

bend, this drive is best approached from

of thrill-seekers arrive. The pass is open

the north so that you can whet your

until September.

World Traveller 45

ROAD TRIP

New England, US

Short cut: A breathtaking 1,300-mile, two or three-week meander through Connecticut, Massachusetts, Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont and back through New York State.

How to do it: Beat the jet lag in New York before hiring an RV (recreational vehicle) and touring leafy New England. Connecticut’s open roads make the perfect introduction before pushing into fashionable Newport then the southern tip of Maine.

Next comes the forested wilderness of New Hampshire, where you might spot a moose, followed by the green pastures and clapboard houses of Vermont. Southern

Massachusetts offers more classic New England beauty, with historic barns and churches, before you plunge back to New York via rugged New York State.

Costa Verde, Brazil

Short cut: Magical islands, South America’s most romantic city and stunning sections of the Atlantic forest make this five-day drive to Copacabana beach a classic.

How to do it: Start at the port city of Santos for this 370-mile coastal adventure — perhaps spending your first night in the relaxed island resort of Guaruja, before starting your drive and hitting the BR101. It takes a ferry to reach your first stop, Ilhabela, then,

at Ubatuba, climb up through the Serra do Mar mountains — enjoying the long views — to Catucaba, soaking up the refreshing, colder air.

Next up is Paraty, often described as southern Brazil’s prettiest city, with its cobbled streets, Portuguese colonial houses, restaurants, boutique hotels and beaches.

Now take a break from driving for a day or two, catching the ferry from Angra dos Reis to the trafficfree island of Ilha Grande to enjoy some hiking and beach time. It will heighten the drama of your final push into throbbing, flamboyant Rio, your first sight of the favelas clinging to the hills, and the city’s famous beaches, including Copacabana itself.

Credit: David Williams/The Telegraph/The Interview People

New England

46 World Traveller

Big Sur, US

Short cut: Clinging to mountains and cliffs, twisting and turning, soaring to 1,000ft and dropping back to sea level, ‘Highway 1’ from Monterey to Morro Bay is one of America’s greatest, most scenic drives. Do it in a day or rent a log cabin midway.

How to do it: Start at Monterey — famous for historic Cannery Row, where John Steinbeck’s novel was set — and drive south with the Pacific on your right until you reach smart, touristy Carmel with its pine-treefringed beach. Push on and you reach wild Big Sur itself, complete with

towering redwood groves to your left and wave-pounded beaches to your right. Cross Bixby Creek Bridge (pictured above) before reaching Point Sur Light Station. Soon, churning Big Sur River runs through majestic Pfeiffer Big Sur State Park, before Morro Bay — heralded by the stark volcanic plug of Morro Rock — signals the end of this invigorating 123-mile drive.

The route is reversible; pick up a hire car either in Los Angeles and drive north or in San Francisco and drive south. Plan accommodation ahead; it’s popular year-round.

World Traveller 47

BANGKOK

Caption please

The

frozen ONE Hermès goodies and freeflowing fizz... Shackleton would turn in his grave. But does a luxury cruise spoil Antarctica, or will the White Continent still give Nick Redman the chills?

48 World Traveller

ANTARCTICA

W

e were mid-sail across the choppy Drake Passage from Cape Horn, heading south to Antarctica to find penguins and petrels, when my hungry gaze spotted a bird of a different feather altogether: plumage-free, in fact.

It emanated a golden aura as sunlight fell on the waves around our boat. One for the Instagram feed? For sure, but what was I going to caption it? The only classification was printed in French: dinde rôtie entière.

Served with exquisitely silky dauphinoise potatoes, it turned out to be turkey: delicately sliced into supermodel-slim slices, drizzled with jus by the head chef himself and worthy, I’d say, of Escoffier. A head-turning specimen, it may have come from as far as France: impressive mileage, even for a bird on its back in a cruiseship fridge. In truth, it would never know how low it ranked in the pecking order of Awesome Antarctic Peregrinations. An albatross, I learned at an on-board lecture, was once tagged with a geolocator and found to have flown 13,000km in 25 days. I closed my eyes and imagined the air miles.

Although I returned from Antarctica with a new love of kelp geese and snowy sheathbills, it was never my intention to turn twitcher aboard Ponant Cruises’ 12-day expedition to the Antarctic Peninsula. A passion for the slow pace of holidays on the ocean wave was what nudged me south to this extreme new horizon. No longer the sole domain of scientists on Soviet icebreakers, eccentric

millionaires on skis, or men with frozen beards and huskies for friends, Antarctica has come in from the cold.

Our ship, Le Boréal, typified this new wave in Antarctic sailings, with an icestrengthened hull, as well as a fine line in free-flowing bubbly, luxury shower gels by Hermès, and delectable millefeuilles among the swathes of sweet things spread out each lunch and dinner. In 1915, penguins, plus the blubber of seals bludgeoned with axes, fuelled explorer Ernest Shackleton and the men of the ill-fated Endurance as it drifted for 10 months in the terminal grip of pack ice. For us, hardships amounted to running perilously low on Evian, while a vexing dearth of bananas one morning at breakfast meant switching to pears.

I’m sure Shackleton would have scratched his head at the cabaret laid on by Ponant — Streisand- and Piaftinged routines performed against porthole flashes of utter wilderness.

Mind you, we were pretty stumped, too, not least by a Ukrainian ‘chanteuse’, shimmying on in a Britney fedora to mime Roy Orbison’s Pretty Woman. By comparison, Antarctica crept up subtly.

Our embarkation point, after a flight from Santiago de Chile, was Punta Arenas in southernmost Chilean Patagonia, with its French-fancy mansions around plazas. A turn-of-the-century gold-rush port made cosmopolitan by Europeans, it felt beautiful, but bleak, its pines, bent by nature, as if they’d been pressed in a memory book. Somewhere between us and the frozen continent was the 900km Drake World Traveller 49

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ANTARCTICA

‘We first caught sight of tabular icebergs the size and shape of cross-channel ferries’

Passage, better known as the Drake Lake or Drake Shake, depending on its mood — at this latitude there is no land to stop the winds from whipping the converging Pacific, Atlantic and Southern Oceans into a frenzy. Luxury ships are not exempt.

‘Tomorrow it will be shaky,’ said Maxim, one of several solemn types under the command of the loquacious Captain Etienne Garcia. As the two of us sat on the bridge (which was invariably open to guests, the welcome made clear by a green sign hung on the door), the islands of Tierra del Fuego slipped by at snail’s pace, beautiful to behold. Even on his pencilflecked charts they were magnificent: amoeboid outcrops, intricately lobed, like wafer slices of walnut trapped in lab slides.

In the end, we got the Lake with a dash of Shake. While the ship rounded Cape Horn, as friendly and welcoming as a shark’s tooth, the wind shrieked, multitracked and mad — something Björk might work into a song. But for the next 48 hours the Drake was little more than a pedalling swell, Le Boréal harrumphing and shuddering into a nosedive now and then. As I wandered, I met the walking wounded, inching along, holding handrails, gazing absently, grasping apples in spare

hands, faces coloured the beige of the chic interiors. Others were unaffected, and the deliciously slow, uneventful crossing was a chance to make chit-chat with guests among the 200 sailing: French and British empty-nesters with comfy pensions, a German couple who’d just sold their paper mill, and an earthy East Coast widow (‘spending my late husband’s inheritance’) who would be played, of course, by Kathy Bates in the movie of the voyage.

In the morning, we were woken at 6.48am. The click of a mic, an intake of breath, and Captain Garcia’s dulcet French tones hit the speakers: ‘Welcome in Antarctica. Land ahoy! Two degrees outside, but no wind; une bonne condition.’

Narnia-like, through the wardrobe we stepped — to explore the Aitcho Islands, pinpricks lying among the larger outcrops of the South Shetlands.

From the off I loved Antarctica: the biro-navy waters below Le Boréal’s marina deck whipped white by the propellers of the departing Zodiac boats as they took guests to the Aitchos (a routine manoeuvre in harbours and bays each day); the clarity around the hull, falling to a deeper void, reflecting nothing; the tadpoletiny shapes of penguins — gentoo and

chinstrap — in the transparent expanses.

Ashore, I only adored those birds more.

Communities of comics, stinking of Copydex... So much about penguins is amusingly human. Some seemed to be waddling back from the supermarket, invisible carrier bags in outstretched wings.

A bored-looking colony hung around, barely communicating, presumably waiting for the all-clear to return to their desks after the fire drill. Close by, a splinter group shuffled shiftily at my approach, obviously smokers who’d stamped out their cigarettes on seeing me. Surely they knew litter is illegal on Antarctica?

No rubbish, no seeds on boot soles, no dust on jackets... yes, Antarctica is a special place. We’d spent the previous afternoon in the Grand Salon, vacuuming wellies and thermals by order of expedition leader Delphine (fluent in English, like all the crew and lecturers). On board, too, to fill us in more on the continent’s unique status, was Laurent Mayet, a Special Representative for Polar Affairs — and a suave, engaging Parisian, to boot.

In legal terms, he told a rapt audience, its closest neighbour is outer space, including the moon and other celestial bodies. The terms of the Antarctic Treaty, World Traveller 51

ANTARCTICA

Caption please

forged in 1959, exempted the continent from claims of national sovereignty or military misappropriation, while devoting it to peace and science. In a curious paradox, the treaty, overseen by Eisenhower, took some chill off the Cold War, committing parties to it — East and West — to collaborative scientific research in politically frightening times.

Antarctica is a continent of seasons upside-down to our own. Its surface doubles, then shrinks by half, with each winter’s sea-ice creep around its shores, followed by each summer’s thaw. Natural powers of survival are miraculous: penguin and auk embryos, if too cold, can alert parents by singing to them, the vocalisations vibrating through their shells.

Antarctic silverfish are among a handful of species that produce antifreeze to cheat death. The southern elephant seal, which can dive to a depth of 2,000m, holding its breath for up to two hours, ensures its lineage by establishing coastal harems.

Slowly, surrealism set in — that 52 World Traveller

ringing, tingling silence, those incorporeal panoramas. Mountains could be mirages.

They appeared, barely there, faint details embossed on a sky only marginally less pale. Plateaus of cloud, peaks of meringue, high meadows of pillowy mist — in places, it looked like a heart-chart of the sweetest dream ever. Or a watercolour of the perfect afterlife, some pure planet you’d float away to inhabit on dying.

One pale evening, I heard humpbacks rasping beyond the sliding door to my balcony, left ajar — it was a mother and child in union. I went to look and — pure fluke — saw a tail curl and disappear below the surface, two exotic monochrome leaves on a stem. Captain Garcia, on the mic from the bridge, was a kid at Christmas, filling the corridors with his gasps: ‘Ah, sublime! Soo-bleem!’

From the Aitchos, Le Boréal crossed Bransfield Strait, south along the Antarctic Peninsula next morning, and on into a stunningly turquoise, frosty afternoon.

Between sky and sea the horizon was spirit-

level straight. On my balcony, glancing up from a book, I gasped — it was like the Swiss Alps had come down to the coast, crumpled-white on ocean-blue. Among the unblemished innocence of this magical ice-coated continent, the real luxury of the cruise was becoming clear. Geography was growing meaningless, place names — Deception Island, Paradise Bay — surely plundered from adventure fiction.

I can’t remember when exactly we reached Wilhelmina Bay, but I do remember bubbly on ice. Le Boréal can push through frozen surfaces to a thickness of 30cm, so of course Captain Garcia did. The prow wedged in hard, leaving traces of its bio paint red in the slush. We could get off and wander over the frozen bay, holding glasses of fizz dispensed from a pop-up bar. It was unforgettable, a day of radiance, of plump Weddell seals eyeing us mournfully, unconventional beauties with the gaze of Audrey Hepburn and the girth of Alfred Hitchcock.

Against a startling, almost tropical, orange sunset, we first caught sight of

BANGKOK

‘Loping by in flashes, they put on a display far subtler than SeaWorld, vanishing then returning abruptly with a fin-menace’

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‘Some were caught in frozen mid-tumble, fissures emitting the blue glow of a nightclub, artificially intense, as if set to ooze sweet goo’

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ANTARCTICA

Credit: Nick Redman / Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing

Caption please

tabular icebergs the size and shape of cross-channel ferries, calved from shelves in the Weddell Sea. They looked so perfect, so machine-honed, that I wondered if they’d been secretly commissioned by Ponant in polystyrene. Whatever, they were worth the price of the voyage alone. No-one tired of photographing their mercurial beauty, from monster to minnow.

I’ll always remember — in the waters off tiny Spert Island, in the vicinity of fathomless Mikkelsen Harbour — Petra, the guide, slowing our Zodiac in a canyon choked with fantastical specimens. Silence fell over the party as we drifted among them. Some were angled and caught the sun in panes, like modern architecture.

Others were round and smooth, their big underwater bottoms now exposed, upturned by erosion and ensuing instability.

‘What colour would you call them?’

How about Maldivian, where the underwater shelves reflect back sunlight, creating limpid paradise lagoons?

And those smaller bulbous beauties bobbing by? I tried to understand

the alchemy behind this azure-ice phenomenon, explained during one of the expert lectures in the main theatre (brilliant additions to each day).

But with the talk of spectrum absorption and optical properties, my thoughts were wont to drift — usually in the direction of a posh Ponant Burger and millefeuille in the comfy, creamcoloured La Licorne restaurant.

Glaciers I did get, becoming quite expert by the time we reached Paradise Bay, disembarking from the Zodiacs for a merciless hill climb above the metallic sea. The shores appeared to be edged with endless ice quarries, where the giant slabs, shunted over time, terminate and fall into the water with a supersonicstyle boom. Some were caught in frozen mid-tumble, fissures emitting the blue glow of a nightclub, artificially intense, as if set to ooze sweet goo.

After solar days of polar bays, the outlook was grey for our last port of call before sailing north to end in Ushuaia, Argentina. Snow blew horizontally,

stinging our cheeks as we drew close to Deception Island: a desolate ring of low stone peaks around a volcanic caldera bay. Access was between two forbidding pincer headlands, along a strait marked ‘Neptune’s Bellows’ on Maxim’s map.

Was it a let-down in such monochrome weather? Not when we saw streaks of black-and-white come to life in the water...

As first one cry, then another, went up, the crowd lurched port and starboard on the bridge. Orcas had arrived. Loping by in flashes of piebald, they put on a display far subtler than SeaWorld, vanishing then returning abruptly with a fin-menace, making directly for the boat. Everyone on board was here for this grand finale: the elderly, the late risers; all up for a few last precious photos to show the folks back home, they beetled like ladybirds in those smart red Ponant parkas (who said Antarctica was just for anoraks?). I watched like a visitor from another planet — which in a way, I guess we all were.

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com World Traveller 55

worldtravellermagazine.com Your passport to the Middle East's first fully bookable travel inspiration website

Extend your journey with World Traveller magazine by heading online to read more inspirational and exclusive travel content and take advantage of upto-the-minute hotel and holiday features

Dream Read Click Book

Weekends Staycations and short-haul escapes

EYE IN THE SKY This remarkable image of the self-contained floating villages that can be found just off the coast of Vietnam's CĂĄt BĂ island was captured by globetrotting photographer Mena Gobran. Check out his other stunning snaps and the stories behind them on page 63.

A fascinating city steeped in history, Alexandria has much to discover. Our mini guide (page 58) points you in the right direction...

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MINI BREAK

YOUR GUIDE TO: ALEXANDRIA

Steeped in Roman and Hellenic history, Alexandria is well known for the ancient wonders it once housed but Egypt’s second-largest city is also a bustling modern metropolis

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Al Montaza lighthouse

WORDS BY OLIVIA CUTHBERT

T

he city of Cleopatra, Ptolemy II and its namesake Alexander the Great echoes with the influence of civilisations that have shaped it across millennia. Visitors to the 'pearl of the Mediterranean' are greeted by its dual personas: the old-world grandee, tracing an illustrious lineage from ancient times to colonial rule, and its modern visage complete with the all the cosmopolitan clamour of a twenty-first century metropolis. Alexandria is a city that unites the two and, according to its biographers, Justin Pollard and Howard Reid, authors of The Rise and Fall of Alexandria, is a place where “The true foundations of the modern world were laid – not in stone, but in ideas.”

ALEXANDRIA

FABLED PAST

Library of Alexandria

Literary heritage More than perhaps any other city, Alexandria is steeped in legend, partly because it was here that the intellectuals of the ancient world attempted to gather every story under the sun into one place. The Great Library of Alexandria was said to be the largest in the world, containing an unrivalled collection of works by the great thinkers of the day, among them Homer, Plato, Socrates and many more.

History reborn The destruction of the old library, believed to have been due to a fire around 2,000 years ago, is still lamented today, though the lack of archaeological remains of this storied structure has led some to suggest its existence was another Alexandrian legend. Today, visitors can visit the modern Library of Alexandria (Bibliotheca Alexandrina), built in 2002, and browse thousands of books gathered in memory of its historic namesake.

Stuff of legend Another ancient wonder that must sadly be left to the imagination is the famous Lighthouse of Alexandria.

It survived in part until around 1480 and was believed to have been a tourist attraction before earthquakes over the centuries reduced it to rubble on the sea floor.

Today, visitors can visit an underwater archaeological park and swim among its remains.

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travelgoals Tipping is expected in Egypt and Alexandria is no exception, whether it’s a porter bringing up bags at the hotel or the lady handing you loo paper outside tourist-site toilets.

TANGIBLE TREASURES Journey through time Little survives of the city in its heyday but there are plenty of (slightly) more recent historical sites that offer an insight into Alexandria across the centuries. The first port of call is the Alexandria National Museum, which conveys a sense of the city from prehistoric times through Pharonic, GraecoRoman, Coptic and Islamic civilisations via a series of archaeological displays.

Guarding the city Next, pay a visit to Qaitbay Fort, part of the citadel that was built by Sultan Qaitbay in the 1480s on the site of the old Alexandria Lighthouse to ward off the threat of crusader invaders.

Alexandria National Museum

Final resting place Plunging back into ancient times, the Catacombs of Kom el Shoqafa were the final resting place for the Antonine emperors in the 2nd century AD but fell into disuse after 4 AD before they were unearthed in 1900 when a startled donkey fell down the access shaft.

An ancient circular staircase winds down into the darkness of the necropolis, where the dĂŠcor reflects the different cultural influences that characterized Alexandrian design across the centuries, with a mix of Roman, Greek and Egyptial cultural points evident in the tombs, statues and reliefs.

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MINI BREAK #

Trinket of a cat, which were held in high esteem

by Ancient Egyptians

travelgoals Head to Stanley Bridge for a panoramic perspective of the Mediterranean during the day or a romantic lookout by night from this breezy spot, which is a short walk from nearby cafes and restaurants.

RETAIL THERAPY Souk shopping Shopping takes on a whole new meaning in the backstreets of Alexandria, which offer a taste of the traditional Arabian market experience, when every price was up for discussion and items could be exchanged as well as bought and sold. Souk El Attarine is the essence of old Arabia, with its winding network of alleyways crammed with shops that spill out onto the street and sell a huge variety of wares, from antique furniture and coffee pots to Egyptian costume, herbs and spices and tourist trinkets.

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East meets West Mediterranean flavours blend with traditional Arabian cuisine in Alexandria, which incorporates the best of both culinary traditions into a brilliant fusion of flavours that sets this apart from other Egyptian cities. For meat-lovers, Middle Eastern barbecues are a revelation and Abd El Wahab Village is a great place to start with huge mixed grill platters piled with succulent lamb skewers, tender chicken and beef kebabs flavoured with local herbs and spices.

Straight from the street For cheap eats and simple street snacks, Foul Mohamed Ahmed at 17 Shokour Street is a firm favorite, serving up tasty bowls of crispy falafel and other mezze favourites in a simple, homely setting.

A must-try meal is Koshari, which is seen by many as Egypt’s national dish and features a filling mix of rice, lentils, macaroni and chicpeas in tomato sauce topped with fried onions. El Tahrir on Khaled Ibn El Walid Street serves up some of the best.

A trip to Egypt wouldn’t be complete without experiencing Fresh from the sea Africa’s most famous Seafood is a particular Alexandrian speciality, river on a traditional thanks to its waterside setting and White and Dahabiya boat and Blue restaurant at the Greek Club produces some admiring the view of the finest Mediterranean-style fish dishes in of the banks from the city. An excellent fine dining option, Sea Gull the water. combines first-class food with sea-side views and first-rate service.

Trawling the malls The high-street shopping experience is concentrated in downtown Alexandria along Al Askander Al Akbar and Ebadah Ibn Al Samet while more upmarket shops can be found in the city’s malls, including San Stefano Mall, which features several cinemas and a variety of luxury outlets and dining options.

Book worms As the site of the most renowned literary collections in history, it’s no surprise that Alexandria is wellstocked with places for visitors to augment their personal libraries. The Book Centre of Alexandria sells volumes in English, Arabic, French and German while Diwan offers a comprehensive selection of English and Arabic fiction to buy or browse in the in-house café.

FOODIE HEAVEN

Koftas

ALEXANDRIA

Alexandria orniche

WHERE TO STAY Four Seasons Hotel Alexandria At the upper end of the scale, this luxury hotel comes with all the five-star trimmings, including spacious suites, sea views and excellent facilities, including a private beach, pool and choice of dining options.

There’s also easy access to the adjacent mall and a very good concierge service for advice on how best to explore the city.

Hilton Alexandria Corniche Boasting its own slither of private sand and overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, this property packs in all you need — a range of restaurants and a wealth of leisure facilities, including a spa and seafacing swimming pool —while standing a few steps from the Corniche and historical sites.

Alexander the Great Hotel With its light, airy rooms and friendly owners always on-hand with advice for guests, this is a popular choice for budget travellers looking to keep costs down on accommodation without compromising on cleanliness or comfort. There are no pretentions to being high-end, but it earns its three-stars.

Four Seasons Hotel Alexandria

TAKING IN THE SIGHTS Strolling the shore One of the best ways to get a feel for Alexandria is to walk through the different neighbourhoods and gain a sense of the very different vibes that make up this eclectic city and the influences that have combined to create it. The Corniche, which spans 10 miles of the Eastern Harbour, is the perfect place for a leisurely waterside stroll, buffeted by gentle sea breezes that take the edge of the heat of the day.

Shady seclusion At one end of the promenade is Montaza Palace, where the shady gardens provide another serene spot in the manicured surroundings of the former King Farouk’s outdoor retreat.

Make like a local Tours by Locals offers visitors an opportunity to experience everyday Egyptian life with an Alexandrian as their guide, including dining in a local restaurant.

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travelgoals For a past perspective, swap the Lonely Planet and Rough Guides for Lawrence Durrell’s The Alexandria Quartet (1957-60) and EM Forster’s Alexandria: A history and a Guide (1922).

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WORLD TRAVELLER X DCT ABU DHABI

Read all about it

Abu Dhabi takes the city’s children Around the World this summer

A

s part of Abu Dhabi’s engaging Around the World Summer Programme, tots through to teenagers are encouraged to immerse themselves in books over the school holidays. “We are launching the Summer Programme with the aim of encouraging our children and the youth of the UAE to develop healthier reading habits and to learn more about international cultures,” said Abdullah Majed Al Ali, Acting Executive Director of the National Library Sector, DCT Abu Dhabi. “The benefits of reading for pleasure, whether story books, fact or fiction, especially at a young age, not only allows children to read and process information better, but also increases empathy, curiosity, and opens up doors for cultural understanding.”

The programme includes a variety of initiatives and activities until August 31, including the Summer Reading Challenge, for which anyone aged six to

62 World Traveller

16 years is tasked with reading 30 books of their choice before the end of this month. Additionally, the Young Librarian programme invites budding bookworms aged eight to 14 to become librarians for a month at their closest library. Children will be able to experience the day-today workings of a library, recommend books to visitors and support the library staff during a seven-hour shift.

The city’s libraries will also play an integral role in the Around the World Summer Programme, hosting a variety of workshops that cover arts, crafts, language, storytelling and innovation, including one which covers information security in the virtual world and programming robotics. Furthermore, each library will host weekly cultural events that celebrate a particular country, teaching children the nuances of that country’s language and culture through activities, workshops and a list of international books.

Appearing and participating in the weekly library programmes will be a strong cast of renowned Arab authors, with Maitha Al Kayyat, Sahar Najaa Mahfouz, Sara Al Hammadi, Sarah Sillis, Ahmed Al Shoibi and Khadijah Kudsi, among them.

All activities are open to children of all ages and are free to attend.

To find out more visit library.dctabudhabi.ae

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TRAVEL NOTES

My Great Escapes Egyptian-American travel photographer Mena Gobran (@mena_shootz), who is based in California, shares the stories behind some of his most double-tapped Instagram snaps 1. Sunrise at Shwedagon Pagoda. One of my most special travel experiences has to be sunrise at the Shwedagon Pagoda in Yangon, Myanmar. Considered by many as the oldest

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Buddhist stupa in the world, there is no real way to describe the energy and sense of calm you feel as you enter the temple at 5am. I sat near this monk for 20 minutes taking in the morning light and watching people make their way around.

2. Roaming the streets Old Havana in Cuba was like being transported back in time. Classic American cars line the streets, the sound of Latin music emanates from people’s homes and the colourful buildings add even more character.

3. Discovering El Salto del Limon. As we walked up to this iconic waterfall in the Dominican Republic I was lucky enough to capture one of the locals scaling the face of the falls. He made it look so easy and, from about 50ft high, he took a dive into the pool below. It was an amazing sight to behold.

4. Camping at Lake Tahoe. While on a solo camping trip in Lake Tahoe in California I spent one evening exploring the lake and shooting the Milky Way. There's no better feeling as a photographer then fully immersing yourself in the night’s sky and imagining the possibilities. At that moment, time

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stood still. 5. Exploring the Royal Gardens of Kandy. In

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2017 I spent six months travelling to seven countries in Asia.

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Sri Lanka had to be one of my favourites, especially the small mountain town of Kandy. Although Kandy is famed for its many sacred Buddhist sites, I particularly enjoyed the Royal Botanical Garden where you can find scenes like this, of an Asian macaque peeking through the bush. 6. Vietnamese Floating villages. I’d been wanting to photograph the floating villages off the coast of Cát Bà island in Vietnam for some time. Hundreds of families have been fishing and living on these self-contained floating villages for years. It was a remarkable sight, and I was especially excited to get this unique bird's-eye perspective.

World Traveller 63

WORLD TRAVELLER X AL MAHA, A LUXURY COLLECTION RESORT & SPA

STAYCATION

Al Maha, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa The legendary oasis hidden within the desert dunes THE ROOMS The four types of suites at this iconic desert retreat have long been championed as the most desirable of dwellings, with their private pools set aside the sand dunes and beneath the nightly show of stars. Their recent renovation has further enhanced the attraction to guests keen to experience the ultimate in sophistication and personalised service. Able to accommodate six, the Presidential Suite is the pinnacle.

THE FOOD With tables set on an al fresco terrace to embrace the still of the magical desert landscape, the resort's signature fine dining restaurant, Al Diwaan, marries a stunning setting — at both sunrise and sunset — to fabulous food. The meticulously planned menu here hits a series of high notes, with dishes crafted from the finest ingredients and plated to artistic perfection.

THE ACTIVITIES To enable you to make the most of your spectacular surrounds, the resort's lengthy list of memorable activities is yours to tick off. Spend your mornings absorbed in the art of falconry, on a desert drive or nature walk, or galloping across the dunes on a guided horse ride. And afternoons atop a camel or in the comfort of a luxury 4x4 for a wildlife safari. Then it's time to have any lingering stresses soothed in the sublime spa.

To find out more, call +971 4 832 9900 or visit al-maha.com 64 World Traveller

EXCEPTIONAL, INDIGENOUS, EXPERIENCE. Experience the alluring, golden desert landscape, the captivating silence of nature, the free-roaming wildlife in the reserve, all enjoyed from your private suite and pool. Indulge in a luxurious desert adventure with camel treks, horseback riding, falconry, archery, dune drives and more.

HOTELS THAT DEFINE THE DESTINATION FOR RESERVATIONS, PLEASE CALL 971 4 832 9900 OR VISIT THELUXURYCOLLECTION.COM/ALMAHA

WORLD TRAVELLER X BAB AL SHAMS DESERT RESORT & SPA

STAYCATION

Bab Al Shams Desert Resort & Spa Escape to the ultimate hideaway within the desert's dramatic dunes THE ROOMS The serenity of the sweeping, silent sands which surround this desert retreat is best experienced from the privacy of your very own sun terrace, a fabulous feature of every Junior and Deluxe Suite, which further house a separate majlis style seating area and rare handcrafted Arabian furnishings. As the most spacious of all accommodations in the resort, the Deluxe Suites are perfect for families.

THE FOOD Staying in the quintessential Arabic resort, here you can indulge in the full 1001 Arabian Nights’ experience by dining at Al Hadheerah, the resort's rolling dunes-set starlit restaurant. Feast from a spectacular spread of Arabic dishes while enjoying live entertainment throughout the night.

Another gastronomic gem awaits diners at Masala, which excels in North Indian vegeterian and non vegeterian fare.

THE ACTIVITIES While the midday sun rages outdoors, you can seek refuge in the resort's awardwinning spa, which is tailored to provide a memorable luxurious experience whether you opt for a relaxing massage within a private cabana with desert views or enjoy treatments together in the couples’ therapy room. Opt for the Blissful Desert Rose Experience and your troubles will melt away during three hours of pampered pleasure.

To find out more, call +971 4 809 6100 or visit babalshams.com 66 World Traveller

DO NOT DISTURB. RELAXATION IN PROGRESS

Your memorable desert getaway now comes with superb deals as Bab Al Shams unveils its summer offers. We’re taking 50% off your food and drink bills so you can relax more – for far less.

BAB AL SHAMS DESERT RESORT Dubai,United Arab Emirates T:+971 4 809 6498, bas.reservations@meydanhotels.com babalshams.com /babalshamshotel

/babalshamshotel

/babalshamshotel

WORLD TRAVELLER X THE MEYDAN HOTEL

STAYCATION

The Meydan Hotel Luxury awaits guests aside the world's most spectacular racecourse THE ROOMS Suite dreams are all but guaranteed in one of the city's most unique settings - aside the world-renowned Meydan racetrack. The Panoramic Suite, replete with a living area and indoor bar, makes a visual spectacle of the setting, while the tw0-bedroom Burj Khalifa-facing Presidential Meydan Suite is clad in style. The height of luxury here, however, is the spectacular tw0-floor Presidential Duplex Suite.

THE FOOD Shiba shines at not one but two cuisines - Chinese and Japanese. And for those too tempted by both to decide between a sizzling szechuan and wonderful Wagyu, there's this month's unlimited sushi and dim sum feast. For just Dhs171 you can eat your fill of delectable dim sum and supremely fresh sushi. At the 21-screen Qube Sports Bar, classic pub grub comes coupled with a fine view of the big match.

THE ACTIVITIES If you feel your golf game isn't quite up to scratch, you have the perfect opportunity this summer to plot a fairway to improvement, thanks to the great value 'summer wildcard' promotion at 9-hole The Track, Meydan Golf.

Starting from Dhs1,600 for one month and Dhs2,700 for two (August and September), you can swing your way through an unlimited number of rounds, day and night, on any given day of the week.

To find out more, call +971 4 381 3333 or visit themeydanhotel.com 68 World Traveller

DO MORE SPEND LESS Make the experience and your cash last that bit longer as The Meydan Hotel launches its ice-cold summer offers to beat the heat. This summer, your stay at Meydan comes with 50% off each bar and restaurant bill so you can do more – with less. Rates starting from AED 349 * THE MEYDAN HOTEL Dubai,United Arab Emirates T: +971 4 381 3231, meydanreservations@meydanhotels.com themeydanhotel.com /meydanHotel

*Terms&Conditions Apply

/meydanhotel

/themeydanhotel_dxb

WORLD TRAVELLER X THE CHEDI MUSCAT

STAYCATION

The Chedi Muscat Spend some quality time with the family at this tranquil beach resort in Oman THE ROOMS The 158-room property blends dramatic Omani architecture with calming Asian influences for a five-star stay in a scenic setting beside the Gulf of Oman, surrounded by the Hajar Mountains. Those travelling with kids in tow should opt for a Chedi Club Suite, which fits two adults and two kids, with large living spaces to stretch out in, a private balcony or terrace and exclusive access to The Club Lounge.

THE FOOD Foodies can indulge at six restaurants and two lounges serving a wide variety of cuisines. A gourmet experience complete with open show kitchens, live piano music and statement interiors make The Restaurant a top choice, with private dining rooms ideal for family gatherings.

Alternatively, for views of the glistening swimming pool, The Serai Pool Cabana is open for a relaxed lunch and dinner.

THE ACTIVITIES Cocoon yourself away from the summer heat at the hotel spa, the largest in Muscat, which specialises in Balinese therapies, Ayurveda and indigenous rituals designed to pamper (the Chedi Jade Massage is great for easing deep muscle tension). Keep your fitness goals on track at the floodlit tennis courts, inside the living room-style gym, or by practising your stroke in the three outdoor temperature-controlled pools.

To find out more, call +968 2 452 4401 or visit ghmhotels.com/en/muscat 70 World Traveller

SUMMER ESCAPE

15 May - 30 September 2018 Two luxurious nights and A third night with our compliments Superb accommodation, award winning restaurants and memorable experiences are waiting to be discovered in Oman.

The Chedi Muscat provides the perfect escape for you and your family this summer.

From OMR 140* per room, per night.

- Stay and pay for 2 nights and receive the 3rd night with our compliments.

- Full breakfast at The Restaurant, daily.

- 20% discount on food & soft drinks.

- Buy one get one free for any 90 minute therapeutic massage.

To make a reservation or to find out more information, please call (+968) 24 524401 or email reservation@chedimuscat.com

*All rates quoted are per room per night and subject to 17% tax.Terms & Conditions apply: * Minimum stay of 2 nights * Black out periods apply.

A bird's eye view of Al Husn

Summoned to the Palace Planning a luxury sojourn? Hold that thought, because Shangri-La has reimagined its Al Husn Resort & Spa just in time to tempt you into taking an Omani summer staycation

Palatial Promise

Inspired by the historic architecture of Omani forts, Shangri-La Al Husn Resort & Spa has been a bastion of sophistication in Muscat for over a decade. This cliff-top property commands an elevated status in the luxury stakes, and this is no better encapsulated than in its distinguished guest rooms. 180 private abodes reflect the aesthetic Moorish architectural heritage, with dark wood interior details dominating these spacious enclaves.

Commanding views of the beach or the infinity pool come courtesy of a private balcony, and by sliding across a wood panelled door, guests can enjoy 72 World Traveller

this same view while taking a soak in a marble, deep-soak tub. The hotel’s signature butler service is on-hand to cater to any whim, and five-star amenities are fully stocked for those opting to hibernate in-room.

Dining Indulgences

Shangri-La Al Husn Resort & Spa features four dining outlets, while guests have access to 19 bars and restaurants in total, including gastronomic experiences at adjacent sister property Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah Resort & Spa. As such, there is an offering for every occasion, be it daily afternoon tea, pre-dinner cocktails,

poolside snacks or savouring speciality fare at world-class restaurants. Guests looking to connect with the local aura will be certain to plump for Shahrazad, which serves up live entertainment to complement its delectable array of Moroccan-Arabic dishes (a must-try being its zesty fattoush).

Stylish Sultanah is a casa for modern Spanish cuisine, with the nautical themed decor based on the legendary cruise liner that inspires the restaurant name. Mahhara beach grill, meanwhile, situated above the resort's private cove, is reserved for in-house guests only, offering al fresco dining, focusing on local seafood and grilled meats, served alongside freshly

WORLD TRAVELLER X SHANGRI-LA AL HUSN RESORT & SPA

Al Husn's stunning lobby area

harvested vegetables and salads from local farms. It is the ideal companion for watching the sunset dip behind the cliffs to the soundtrack of crashing waves.

Polished & Pampered

Inside a Deluxe Room

From the moment the doormen, dressed in traditional Omani attire, swish open the hotel doors, there’s a sense that a stay here will be a highly personalised experience — and this feeling is upheld by the resort’s acclaimed Hareer Spa by L’OCCITANE. Tensions begin to ease the moment one crosses the threshold, with calming tones of lavender recalling the colours of Provence, and a new menu of wellness options promise a refreshed soul. Deep relaxing massages are delivered by expert therapists ensure guests emerge refreshed and re-energised, having been slathered with fragrant signature ingredients from the L’OCCITANE health and beauty line; it’s a sentiment best echoed in the must-try Omani Honey Heaven treatment, which will leave you positively buzzing with delight.

This ground floor haven is pure tranquility, and encapsulates the new focus on ‘you’, that has been adopted by the resort.

An Experiential Escape

An intricate archway leads to the stunning infinity pool

For the more actively inclined (or indeed the culturally curious), Shanghai-La has assured there is adventure to accompany the opulence. Shangri-La Al Husn Resort & Spa is blessed with an historic and captivating backdrop, ripe for exploration via a bespoke tour. On land, this pertains to excursions such as the Wadi Al Arabeen Experience, where a group can venture out into the rugged mountain terrain in the comfort of a luxury 4x4. The destination is the natural fresh water pools of the wadi for a dip in its sapphire waters — with a brief pause in the coastal village of Quriyat en route, ideal for eagle spotting. Out on the glistening Gulf of Oman, a Robinson Crusoe Island Tour sets sail from the resort on a private yacht to enjoy a scrumptious barbecue on the beach of Bander Al Khairan island, with seafarers assured a glimpse of wild turtles, dolphins and whales that frolic off the coast. It’s a castaway experience, with a touch of luxury.

For details of our Advance Purchase offer and for further information, please call +968 2 477 6262 or visit shangri-la. com/muscat/alhusnresortandspa World Traveller 73

A Water Villa With Pool

The unforgettable journey Take a trip to paradise over Eid Al Adha at One&Only Reethi Rah, Maldives

S

leek and spectacular, One&Only Reethi Rah is paradise found. This is where those magical Maldivian moments — snorkeling over manta rays as they glide gracefully through pellucid waters; dining on a sandbank in the middle of the Indian Ocean, alone but for your private chef and the sound of lapping waves; having your stresses soothed in an ocean-side treatment villa — foster memories that last a lifetime.

Extraordinary accommodation Whether you opt for your own slice of secluded beach, or your own expanse of ocean, the villas at One&Only Reethi Rah not only rank high among the finest in the Maldives, but in the entire world.

Beach Villas come in four styles; Beach 74 World Traveller

Villa, Beach Villa With Pool, Two-Villa Residence With Pool, and Grand Beach Villa With Pool, with each shrouded in foliage and thoughtfully spaced apart to offer unrivalled privacy. Ideal for families, the Two-Villa Residence With Pool comprises two individual villas that can be enjoyed separately or linked together. The supremely spacious Grand Beach Villa With Pool grants guests two bedrooms, separate dining and sitting rooms, and a bathroom replete with a soaking tub designed for two. Shady verandas, a private pool, and canopied day bed are its al fresco attractions.

Set on stilts, with their steps leading directly into the ocean and their sundecks featuring wraparound hammocks, suspended just above the abundant

fish that float by, the Water Villas at One&Only Reethi Rah are simply stunning. Available with or without pools, spectacular sunsets come as standard.

The grand dame of the whole island, however, is the Grand Sunset Residence, which stands alone to command the island’s largest stretch of private beach.

Sleeping up to nine guests (six adults and three children), the residence boasts an incredible outdoor area, with dining, relaxation and entertaining spaces open to the starlit sky above and the rolling waves out front.

Aqua adventures With six kilometres of stunning coastline, a dozen beguiling beaches and easy access to exceptional reefs and dive sites

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(including one of the Maldives' best shark spots, the 1988 wreck of the Hembadhu, and the Rasafari Protected Marine Area), it’s little wonder One&Only Reethi Rah commands the respect of seasoned scuba divers. At Bodu Hiti Thila, south of Reethi Rah, white-tip reef sharks circulate the ocean bed sand (clearly visible from 30 metres) while turtles are frequent visitors to the surface.

Just for kids Whatever their age, it’s easy for children to share in the magic of One&Only Reethi Rah: KidsOnly sees a dedicated team of certified counsellors oversee a tailored programme of activities (arts and crafts through to treasure hunts and fashion shows) for four to nineyear-olds; OneTribe (for ages nine-12) welcomes tweens to their own chill out area on the beach; while at Teens (ages 12 and above) teenage counsellors devise a wide range of fun activities.

Hit the spa A blissful sanctuary set aside the ocean and within manicured grounds housing crystal steam rooms, saunas, and vitality pools, One&Only Spa, by ESPA is a destination in its own right. Here, wonderful treatment villas afford spectacular sea views and provide the setting for highly-skilled therapists to utilise both indigenous and traditional techniques as they administer signature spa experiences or devise tailored programmes and wellness journeys. For the ultimate indulgence, choose to take your treatment in the ocean-side cabana and experience tranquility right at the water’s edge.

Dining delights From the garden-to-fork philosophy of al fresco Botanica, where tables can be taken in the Orchid House or beneath an ancient Banyan Tree, and the innovative, fine-dining fare at Reethi, to contemporary Japanese at stylish

The Grand Sunset Residence, viewed from above

Tapasake and homely Italian classics at Rabarbaro, the gastronomic journey around the island is one rich in choice.

For lighter bites derived from the Middle East, head to Fanditha for its ‘Magical Hours’ (6pm-8pm) to watch the sun put on a show of ever changing colour before it slips into the ocean before you.

Off-island excursions While you’ll be hard pressed to tear yourself from this treasured island, all manner of opportunities exist to tempt you to do so: charter the One&Only Yacht for sunset cruises and overnight excursions, or set sail on a traditional dhoni for a private picnic on a sandbank; take a seaplane to a spot where you can swim with whale sharks, or head out to sea for big game fishing. Adventure awaits.

To view special offers or for further information visit oneandonlyresorts. com or call +971 4 426 1099

An innovative dish at Reethi

A bathtub with a view inside a One Bedroom Garden View Pool Lap pool

KidsOnly pirate cruise

World Traveller 75

A PERFECT HOLIDAY... RIGHT NEXT DOOR. ENJOY Abu Dhabi

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FEEL THE LOVE The tree-lined avenues of Paris are wonderful to walk down in summer, and with the city still basking in the glory of its country's World Cup win, we don't think there's a better time to visit the City of Love. Turn to page 83 and take advantage of our exclusive offer to enjoy four nights there.

World Traveller 77

THE FANTASTIC FOUR

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UNITED KINGDOM 2

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World Traveller 79

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#dnataworldtraveller SHOP SWAP While you don't have to travel beyond the boundaries of a mall to shop this region's best stores, it's a much tougher task in cities where shops are spread city wide. On hand to help is our handpicked team of style-savvy residents of some of the world's finest shopping destinations.

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TRAVEL INSPIRATION AT YOUR FINGERTIPS

Available on your desktop, tablet and smartphone World Traveller 83

Suite dreams Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a suite that has a character and style all of its own

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84 World Traveller

ABU DHABI SUMMER SEASON 2018 IS HERE!

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