INSPIRED BY
ISSUE 146 | DECEMBER 2020 | DHS15
Journeys to the ends of the Earth
Produced in Dubai Production City
MONGOLIA MADAGASCAR OUTER HEBRIDES GREENLAND COSTA RICA
Welcome note
If you're dreaming of exploring wide-open, sparsely populated spaces off the well-beaten tourist track, your wanderlust reignited with the new year in sight, we're going to take you on a journey... In a landscape of raw skies and empty plains, far from the reach of Google Maps, Mike MacEacheran encounters eagle hunters in Mongolia (page 20), a land seemingly forgotten by time. Lemurs the size of fairground teddies in an island nation nicknamed ‘the eighth continent’ has Chris Haslam believing he's journeyed to another world when he lands in Madagascar (page 28). While an eternity of sky meets an ocean prowled by orcas in the windswept beauty of the Outer Hebrides (page 34). Greenland (page 42) is one of Earth's harshest landscapes, but we'll tell you how to explore its ice-laden wilderness in one awe-inspiring week. And then there's Costa Rica (page 48), a magical Latin American land that's a tonic for the senses.
Managing Director Victoria Thatcher Chief Creative Officer John Thatcher General Manager David Wade Content & Social Editor Hayley Kadrou Deputy Editor Sophia Dyer Art Director Kerri Bennett
Enjoy the trip.
Digital Media Manager Muthu Kumar
FIVE THINGS WE LEARNED THIS ISSUE: 1
In deepest Mongolia, the nomadic tribes teach their children to ride horses before they can even walk p22
2
In Madagascar's Tsaranoro Valley, locals believe two souls leave the body after death; one left lingering in the mountains to offer assistance or cause mischief to the living. p33
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Lewis and Harris, in Scotland’s Outer Hebrides may have two names but it is just one island. p24
The World Traveller Team
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December 2020 // Issue 146 // Mongolia / Madagascar / Outer Hebridies / Greenland / Costa Rica
INSPIRED BY
ISSUE 146 | DECEMBER 2020 | DHS15
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Journeys to the ends of the Earth
Photography credits: iStock by Getty Images, supplied Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media is strictly prohibited. HOT Media does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller. Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494
The name Costa Rica, meaning 'rich coast', was supposedly given to the rainforested country by Columbus in 1502. p52
Produced in Dubai Production City
MONGOLIA MADAGASCAR OUTER HEBRIDES GREENLAND COSTA RICA
INSPIRED BY
Greenland's remote settlement Narsarsuaq has a population of just 123, though it does also have a hotel. Just the one, of course. p44
COVER IMAGE Greenland. Getty Images
Find us at… ONLINE worldtravellermagazine.com FACEBOOK @WorldTravellerME INSTAGRAM @worldtravellerme TWITTER @WTravellerME
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Contents December 2020 Hotel Château du Grand-Lucé
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READER OFFERS
regulars 08
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GLOBETROTTER
READER OFFERS
The destinations topping our list this month include the charming Cotswolds and beautiful Bali.
By royal appointment: How Scotland's rugged landscape and historic grand estates play a leading role in Netflix hit The Crown.
It's time we sent you packing. Choose your next adventure, whether near or far, from our exclusive reader offers.
OH, THE PLACES YOU'LL GO
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SUITE DREAMS
The raw beauty of Zanzibar beckons us this month, where you'll find us holed up in the Park Hyatt's Royal Residence. worldtravellerme.com 5
CONTENTS
features
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THE LOST WORLD
Mike MacEacheran revels in the freedom of Mongolia, one of the planet's most sparsely populated places.
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GREENLAND
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For Chris Haslam, a trip to ‘the eighth continent’ feels like a journey to another world,
It's love at first sight for Jeremy Lazell as he indulges in the isolation of Scotland's windswept Outer Hebrides.
Greenland is one of Earth’s harshest landscapes — made nice and easy by our doin-week guide.
In remote Costa Rica, the coffee’s aromatic, the sea sensuous, the flora vivid and the fauna a tad pungent.
MAGICAL MADAGASCAR
WILD FLING
HARSH REALITY
COSTA LIVING
RARE, INDIGENOU S, CAP T I VAT I NG Experience the alluring, golden desert landscape, the captivating silence of nature, the free-roaming wildlife in the reserve, all enjoyed from your private suite and pool. Indulge in a luxurious desert adventure with camel treks, horseback riding, falconry, archery, dune drives and more.
HOTELS THAT DEFINE THE DESTINATION
FOR RESERVATIONS, PLEASE CALL +971 4 832 9900 OR VISIT AL-MAHA.COM
OH, THE PLACES YOU'LL GO Emily Williams, dnata Travel’s resident globetrotter, reveals the places to add to your must-go list
Cotswolds, England
Did you know that the Cotswolds is England’s largest ‘Area of Natural Beauty’? Protected by the UK government, this incredibly picturesque area of rural England is highly accessible from the UK capital, with trains taking just over one hour. Travel in to London for some vibrant city living before retreating to the countryside among the rolling hills and honey-coloured villages fashioned from Cotswold stone. Covering the counties of Wiltshire, Gloucestershire, Oxfordshire, Warwickshire and Worcestershire, and fringed by some of England’s most cultured small cities including Bath, there’s much land to cover here and local produce to enjoy. In the colder months, as its rustic cottages are covered by snow, the Cotswolds make for a particularly magical winter setting. Highlights 1 Take a rose-tinted stroll down Copse Hill Road in Lower Slaughter, which was awarded the Google Street View award for being the most romantic street in Britain. 2 Visit Snowshill Manor, once home to eccentric architect Charles Wade, where his vast collection of interesting objects remains today. 3 Head to The Gloucestershire Warwickshire Steam Railway where, from December 5 to 24, you can board a festive steam train and meet Santa.
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WISH LIST DESTINATIONS
Panorama Route, South Africa
Under huge African skies, wildlife-filled national parks and game reserves lure safari-seeking adventurers to South Africa, whilst long stretches of coastline and mountainous landscapes are perfect for road-trippers. Steeped in history, the Panorama Route offers the perfect chance to take in the best of this beautiful country, from a range of historic and cultural sites to incredible natural landmarks with scenic mountain passes, waterfalls, and unique sites. From Johannesburg, take a drive or internal flight to the Mpumalanga province to start one of the world’s most beautiful road trips centred around the Blyde River Canyon – the world’s third largest. With its proximity to Kruger National Park, this route makes for the perfect, all-round South African road trip and safari experience. Highlights 1 Break up your road trip with a five-day walk along the scenic Prospector’s Hiking Trail. 2 Book a tour around Shangana Cultural Village, where you can meet the locals and pick up artisan crafts. 3 Just outside of Ohrigstad lies The Echo Caves which, as some of the world’s oldest, are a must-see.
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Musandam, Oman
Separated from the rest of the country by the east coast of the UAE – Musandam is a beautiful peninsula located at just over a two-hour drive time from Dubai. Often referred to as the ‘Norway of Arabia’, this incredible part of the Sultanate is known for its fjord-like khors or ‘rocky inlets’, its small villages located in valleys, and the dramatic mountains that surround them. Home to several, glittering sandy beaches, Musandam is also famed for its crystal-clear waters and impressive marine life. Snorkelling and diving are popular here, alongside dhow cruises to sail between khors and next to dancing dolphins. As the weather cools, the Jebel Harim peak, the highest in Musandam, offers an excellent spot for hiking or camping with magnificent views. Highlights 1 Explore the crystal-clear waters between the fjords on a traditional dhow boat cruise, before digging into a spread of authentic fare served onboard. 2 Take flight down to Six Senses Zighy Bay (pictured) in a thrilling paragliding experience that sees you floating from the top of the mountain range. 3 For the adventurous, camping out in the mountains is a brilliant way to enjoy the great outdoors.
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WISH LIST DESTINATIONS
Uluwatu, Bali
The island of Bali, one of Indonesia’s most popular travel destinations, is an enormous, flavourful wonderland to discover with its myriad beaches, incredible views, world-famous massages, and so much more. A stunning destination on the south of the island, Uluwatu is renowned as the home to some of Bali’s best beaches and most unforgettable viewpoints. Stay in clifftop accommodation – which includes some of the most luxurious that the island has to offer – and watch as surfers ride the waves of this famous surfing paradise, among relaxed, magical settings that will add something special to any Bali traveller’s experience. Highlights 1 Known for its year-round surf, head to Padang-Padang beach for world-class waves, Saturday night music and daily sunset views. 2 For native flavours and local culture, family-run restaurant, Warung Ubay, is championed as a great lunch spot. 3 Beware of the monkeys (who like to pinch jewellery) as you explore the Uluwatu Temple (pictured), with its breathtaking sea cliff views and traditional Balinese architecture.
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THE EPITOME OF OMANI OPULENCE AWAITS YOU Luxuriate in this elegant Three Bedroom Royal Beach Villa embodying Omani heritage and utmost luxury with Middle Eastern furnishings and commanding views of the white sandy beach, rolling waves and swaying palms. Delight in the exquisite setting of three spacious bedrooms, each complemented with walk-in closets and bathroom with rain shower and bathtub. Savour the sense of light and airiness swimming in your very own private 40 square metre pool and an outdoor rain shower. Lounge on your sunbeds and outdoor dining room with a personalised villa host to ensure you get most out of your stay. LIFE IS A JOURNEY. Visit anantara.com
CAMBODIA CHINA INDONESIA MALDIVES MOZAMBIQUE OMAN QATAR SRI LANKA THAILAND UNITED ARAB EMIRATES VIETNAM ZAMBIA
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DECEMBER
Globetrotter Be informed, be inspired, be there
END ON A HIGH As 2020 draws to a close, Rixos The Palm Dubai Hotel & Suites is encouraging guests to shed tension by offering a complimentary 30-minute body massage per stay, along with 20 per cent off Hammam treatments (when you book a two-night stay). As the first ultra-all-inclusive beachfront resort, carefree relaxation comes naturally at Rixos. And as its prime Palm Jumeirah location affords it the luxury of both a city and beach escape, you can decide which way you'd like to while away the remaining days of the year. worldtravellerme.com 13
GLOBETROTTER Ardverikie Estate
SCOTLAND’S CROWN JEWELS Season four of Netflix’s series The Crown has returned to our screens. Shot in over 90 locations around the UK, Scotland's grand estates and wild landscapes feature prominently. If you’re a fan of the show, here are three places fit for royalty... Ardverikie Estate, Kinloch Laggan, Newtonmore, Inverness-shire With its Scottish baronial style, the former residence of Sir John William Ramsden acts as the backdrop for the interiors of Balmoral Castle, where the queen spends her summers.
Dunbeath Estate, Dunbeath, Caithness Overlooking the roaring waves of the Moray Firth, this castle embraces drama both in stature and location. Its cliff edges were used to represent the River Hofsa in Iceland, where Prince Charles fishes. Rothiemurchus Estate, Rothiemurchus Centre, Aviemore This estate stands in one of the largest areas of natural forest in Britain. The Crown uses this serene spot to portray the traditional highland games.
To mark the UAE’s 49th National Day, The Abu Dhabi EDITION Hotel will display a selection of art that celebrates the rich culture of the Emirates. Running until December 5, the exhibition echoes the property’s designcentric ethos and will feature the work of local artists, with Emirati painter, Buduour Al Ameri, live painting a bespoke piece to showcase in the hotel. 14 worldtravellerme.com
FLIGHT TIME
Flying home for the holidays? Don’t waste your precious time getting over the flight Catch some zzz’s en route with this leather eye mask from Maison Margiela. Its handy case has a pocket for your boarding pass, too. Fullgrain leather eye mask and case, Dhs1930, Maison Margiela Combat post-flight puffiness with a Jade Gua Sha that softly massages the skin to reduce inflammation. Rising Sun Gua Sha, Dhs175, Beauty Solutions And when you do hit the sack, do it in ultimate comfort with these luxurious silk pyjamas. Alba Zelda Silk Shirt set, Dhs1850, Olivia Von Halle
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GLOBETROTTER
HOW I TRAVEL THE FIRST PLACE ON MY POST-PANDEMIC TRAVEL LIST IS… Tulum in Mexico or Hurghada in Egypt. Although culturally different, both are on the beach and I find the ocean to be healing.
From left to right: Topshop floral facemask; Boundaire face mask with chain; Tata Harper Resurfacing Serum; Moleskin A4 Pro Project Planner; breakfast at Sanara Hotel, Tulum, Mexico
THE FUTURE OF TRAVEL WILL LOOK LIKE…. Forming pods with key friends or family that you can fly with. This will allow loved ones to share adventures, while reducing the risks that come with socialising with others. MY FAVOURITE CITY IN TERMS OF DESIGN IS…. Tokyo, Japan. It’s extremely beautiful and inspiring in terms of style. Both its exterior and interior designs are really a designer's dream come true. THE THING I LOVE MOST ABOUT TRAVELLING IS … Finding the less travelled road. I love looking and finding the best spots in town. I want to experience the country as a local, not as a tourist. IF YOU'RE LOOKING FOR A HOLIDAY WITH DESIGN FLAIR VISIT…. Egypt, Mexico, or Morocco. Each have beautiful architecture and amazing textiles. THE STAMP IN MY PASSPORT I’M MOST PROUD OF IS…. Cairo, Egypt. It’s my home and it makes me smile to see the stamp in passport. I KEEP MYSELF ENTERTAINED WHEN TRAVELLING BY… Exploring the local markets for textiles; searching for local artists that I can work with for future projects; and
As founder and CEO of Functional Creative Design, SARAH A. ABDALLAH has overseen the design of some of the world's most iconic hotels eating in well-regarded local restaurants. TO TRAVEL SAFELY IN STYLE, YOU NEED… A handful of cotton masks that match your wardrobe; a pair of Warby Parking sunglasses; and an all-natural hand sanitizer: Noshinku in bergamot is my favourite.
MY TOP THREE WELL DESIGNED HOTELS ARE... Sanara Hotel in Tulum has been designed with wellness in mind. The infinity rooftop pool at the Sofitel in Sydney
Darling Harbour, Australia, has great views over the city. And for a more boutique style, I love Casa Cook in El Guna, Egypt, which is right on the Red Sea. IT’S GOOD TO HAVE A BUCKET LIST AS... It keeps you spirits high during these uncertain times and gets you excited about your next adventure. WHEN I TRAVEL, I PACK… Tata Harper Resurfacing Serum for my skin; Orbe Foundation Mist for my hair and a Moleskine notepad for journaling ideas.
THE TRIP THAT CHANGED MY LIFE WAS … As part of my MA at NYU I studied abroad, heading to Bethlehem, Palestine, to work with children affected by living in a war-torn environment. That trip changed my perspective on humanity. worldtravellerme.com 15
'Tis the season
As festivities descend on the Emirates, Anantara Eastern Mangroves sets the scene for memorable celebrations
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WORLD TRAVELLER X ANANTARA EASTERN MANGROVES
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t’s no secret that we're are looking forward to ringing out the year by making merry this festive season. And it's also no secret that the best place to do so is Anantara Eastern Mangroves. With an expanse of natural mangroves on one side, and towering skyscrapers on the other, this property knows a thing or two about balance. From kayaking along the mangroves and thrashing through sand dunes on a desert safari, to enjoying award-winning Thai food at Pachaylen and unwinding with a Turkish hammam ritual at the prized Anantara Spa, days here are relaxing, diverse, and culturally rich. It's during the festive season, however, that the real fun begins. Things start brightly on December 10 with the annual tree lighting ceremony – which will see Santa arrive by boat through the lush foliage, as you enjoy seasonal treats and live entertainment. As the big day draws closer, celebrate Christmas Eve with a decadent buffet (think foie gras and roasted prime rib-eye beef) at Ingredients, where live music will imbue the holiday spirit. Then it's time to take the party (and your dancing shoes) to 7 by Impressions Rooftop Bar to hear Christmas hits right through the night. Or, for something a little more sedate, Pachaylen is adding a Thai twist to Christmas Eve with a four-course set menu. On December 25, Papa Noël himself will host the perfect family brunch, keeping the kids in high spirits while parents work their way through the culinary gifts delivered by multiple live cooking stations – everything from perfectly seared steaks and freshlycaught seafood, to that all important butterroasted turkey and homemade sweet treats. There are many ways to end the year on a high here – you can even do so literally at 7 by Impressions Rooftop Bar, where the Up-HI NYE party takes you through to 3.30am. For gourmands, the glamour of Glorious 2021 awaits, an extravagant gala dinner at Ingredients, soundtracked by live performances. While for those who want to welcome in the 2021 with a bang, the Pool Deck New Year party affords revellers a fine vantage point for the fireworks that will light up the night sky. Here by the atmosphericallylit pool, you can enjoy a delectable buffet, unlimited drinks, and an impressive line-up of live performers. With all this merriment, it only makes sense to book a stay - Anantara Eastern Mangroves has gifted some outstanding offers to do so. During December, you can
book a stress-free, all-inclusive staycation from Dhs795 per night, which includes all your food and drinks throughout your stay. Or opt for a Festive Escape from only Dhs850, which includes accommodation, a gourmet breakfast at Ingredients, and a choice of Christmas Eve dinner, Papa Noël’s Brunch or Christmas dinner on December 25. Eschew the stress of finding a taxi home after midnight strikes by booking the Ring In 2021 package. Starting from Dhs2,021, it includes the Glorious 2021 gala dinner with house beverages, a night's stay in luxury accommodation, a free-flow bubbly breakfast buffet next morning, and the takeaway gift of a one-night stay voucher for 2021. What better way to begin the new year than knowing you'll be returning to Anantara Eastern Mangroves? To find out more visit Anantara.com/en/ eastern-mangroves-abu-dhabi worldtravellerme.com 17
C R E AT E SPECIAL MOMENTS WITH US.
DUBAI MARRIOTT HARBOUR HOTEL & SUITES KING SALMAN BIN ABDULAZIZ AL SAUD STREET DUBAI MARINA, PO BOX 66662, DUBAI, UAE T. 971.4.319.4000 | DUBAIMARRIOTTHARBOURHOTEL.COM Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites @marriottharbour
Standing tall in the heart of Dubai Marina, featuring incomparable panoramic views of the city, combine the best of all worlds with luxurious accommodation, three contemporary dining destinations and a blissful caravanserai-inspired, Saray Spa.
Greenland
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Postcards Stories from journeys far and wide
MONGOLIA p20 MADAGASCAR p28 THE OUTER HEBRIDES p34 GREENLAND p42 COSTA RICA p48
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These pages, from left to XXXXXXXXXXXXX right: Mongolian woman in a traditional 13th-century costume; an ibex stands in the light of the moon The night market on Temple Street
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MONGOLIA
E H L T
ST WO O
Mongolia is one of the most sparsely populated places on Earth, a swathe of Asia that time forgot. For Mike MacEacheran it was an escape to freedom
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LD R
MONGOLIA
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THE GRAND REVEAL WAS THAT MORE DINOSAUR BONES AND FOSSILS HAVE BEEN FOUND HERE THAN ANYWHERE ELSE ON EARTH. IT WAS WHAT YOU MIGHT CALL A JURASSIC PERK
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Under an alien sky, I was standing somewhere out on the steppe when the fermented mare’s-milk vodka began to take hold. To my right, a warriorlike Kazakh eagle hunter was dressed in fox- and marmot-skin pelts, yak wool vest and shouldering a rifle. He wore a fur-lined toortsog hat pulled down tight and was handing me a cracked teacup of homemade liquor. In the dreamlike twilight, I took a nervous gulp. I shuddered. I belched. I felt the ground wobble, and very soon my host’s face blurred into a picture of jabbering teeth and joke-shop eyes. Was I dreaming? What was I doing out here? He prompted me to drink more. Soon, I was zombie-like, my vision spinning. Through the dark I could sense a shadow boomeranging towards me. It was a mesmerising golden eagle with wings like a phoenix. I certainly wouldn’t favour arkhi, as this strangely medicinal moonshine is called, over an off-the-shelf French red. But on this sun-streaked evening, outside the huntsman’s yurt camp and far beyond the reach of Google Maps, I lapped it up — to a point. Around us was a landscape of raw skies, empty plains and the eternally snowcapped Altai Mountains forming a broad, crumpled horizon. Above, another golden eagle spiralled and there was nothing but the wide open space of Bayan-Olgii province for hundreds of kilometres. Nothing but trackless land and untold adventures. And, the clincher: no other tourists. Unexpected encounters like this are thick on the ground in deepest Mongolia. I’ve regaled more than one party with the time I was offered a dowry of scraggle-haired goats in return for marrying a shepherd’s
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only daughter (frankly, animal wrangling just wasn’t for me). On another afternoon, I sat beneath a glittering sand dune in the Gobi Desert playing chess with a nomadic horseman (I lost, but who cares?). The wild and unpredictable nature of the steppe is part of the deal. Mongolia is more out there — more alien, more absurd — than anywhere else I know. This isn’t the sort of adventure you book on a whim. I’d fantasised about getting out into its lonely landscapes for years and the bone-dry plains, salt lakes and eagle haunted valleys all lay on the fringes of my mental topographic map. But Mongolia needs a lot of planning, some excellent guides, openness to the weird and wonderful, and a stomach for curiosities. How about bantan (camelmeat porridge), or suutei tsai (salty tea)? The country remains medieval in the best sense of the word, demanding time, perseverance and flexibility to appreciate the immutable rhythm of Mongolian life. You could let a tour operator do the hard work for you and take a whirlwind two-week guided tour of the highlights, from blistering Gobi dunes to ruined Karakorum, the once-upon-a-time capital of the Mongol Empire. But I itched to dig deeper, to take the route far less travelled. I dreamt of horses and empire. Digesting a guidebook, I settled on a three-week, 4,800km road trip in late spring. The challenge was a Mad Max landscape six times larger than the UK, with unpaved roads and no motorway services. Some days required 400 bum-shaking kilometres, others needed nothing more than simply being and feeling. It was perfect: what I needed was time, and an abrupt end to a relationship that was going nowhere. And
This page, clockwise from top left: a traditional eagle hunter; sand in the Gobi Desert; reindeers relax outside of a teepee; a young Mongolian lady in the late afternoon sun
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XXXXXXXXXXXXX These pages, from left to right: an eagle hunter contemplates the day; a caravan in the desert. Next pages: horses running in an open field
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MONGOLIA
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MONGOLIA IS CALLED THE LAND OF THE BLUE SKY, BUT EVENINGS IN THE GOBI DESERT ARE FILLED WITH BLOOD-RED SUNSETS AND LOW-HANGING GOLD STARS that gave me all the freedom I needed. I started in the smoke-shrouded capital, Ulaanbaatar. The few thousand visitors mostly fly in via Istanbul or Moscow in peak summer. I’d arrived by the Trans-Mongolian sleeper from Russia seeking solitude and silence. Ulaanbaatar has sacrificed likeability for mineral wealth and Chinese investment, so I soon decided to skip hastily built high-rises and exhaust-blowing traffic for purer, sunnier landscapes, and lots of dumplings. Accompanied by Almagul Karagaz, an English-speaking Mongolian guide brought up on stallions and US sitcoms, we started south in a four-wheel-drive van built for the bump and grind. The capital still hazy in the rear view, we broke free from the road on to a vast sweep of plateau, with the only other traffic the endangered takhi horses living wild around Hustai National Park. I watched as they galloped carefree across the gravel. Unbroken, untamed, they ghosted across the plains. With few paved roads, we followed
their dust trails into what already felt like the borderlands. It had me wideeyed with wonder, especially when Almagul arranged to have me lifted on to a sheepskin saddle that evening for an introductory ride around. I’d never mounted a horse like this before — one so dumpy, with a mohawk-shock haircut. But bathed in the pale light of the moon, I rode, chased by a pack of barking strays, then stopped in my tracks as a toddler rode past bareback. Rude to stare, undoubtedly, but sometimes there’s nothing else you can do. ‘Many nomads teach their children to ride before they can walk — some as young as three,’ Almagul said, proudly. ‘Horsemanship runs through our veins.’ She wasn’t wrong. Jockeying a pale-bellied beauty, Genghis Khanstyle — all while pulling a bow — is practically a human right on the steppe. We travelled without restriction by road, the days passing, sunbeams piercing the splintered windscreen and radio crackling. Towards Dalanzadgad,
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in the country’s isolated south, the land becomes so flat you could watch your dog run away for weeks. Spaced apart tented camps appear as if by magic, each nomadic shepherd often seeking pastures new before the blazing summer or frigid winter hits. Above all, this is a land shaped by a culture of migration. Night after night, Almagul arranged for us to sleep in a homestay-style ger — a Glastonbury bell tent meets ethnographic museum display. The ger is an appealingly unfamiliar concept with a woodsy 19th-century vibe. Picture a whistling teapot over the coals, yak-wool socks knitted by firelight, an outside toilet with a million-star view. It was too gripping for just looking, so I learnt how to herd thick-bearded goats into night enclosures, before returning to hand-roll dumplings in shadowy nooks. Often drink was passed round. Often I woke, unsure which century I was in. After some time, the flatlands suddenly crumpled, pitching upwards. We parked at Yolyn Am, a shadow worldtravellerme.com 25
throwing gorge in the Gurvan Saikhan mountains, then clambered deep down into a new world of measureless caverns, tongues of ice and cathedral-like silence. It was a breathless transition from sand to snow, and Narnia-esque in its brevity. The mineral colours, at first geography-map green and brown, turned alabaster, silver and blizzard blue. We had a full-on snowball fight. One geographical oddity I’d fingered on my map around this area was the surreal flaming cliffs at Bayanzag, where I’ll always remember the steppe crumbling from unforested grasslands into a fiery crucible of sandstone buttes, chessboard-piece rock pinnacles and sunken valleys. All of a sudden, it was powder red and sunburnt orange, the land fully-coloured in, yet bleak, barren and drained of life. The grand reveal was that more dinosaur bones and fossils have been found here than anywhere else on Earth. It was what you might call a Jurassic perk. I climbed to the top of a skewwhiff outcrop to survey it all. Below me, a vast prairie seemed to say welcome to Jupiter. Beyond that, empty and eerie dunes ran amok and the horizon looked like the edge of the known world. It was utterly extraterrestrial in its scope. Later, Almagul told me we were the first visitors to the cliffs for a week. No good roads connect Bayanzag to the rest of the country, so consider a self-drive out of the question. Mongolia is called the land of the blue sky, but evenings in the Gobi Desert are filled with blood-red sunsets and low-hanging gold stars. One evening at the top of the Khongoryn Els sand dunes, the most gloriously trippy view awaited us: the ridges howled to us in the wind, while the sandy crests danced in psychedelic waves as if to a pulsing bassline. At sunset, we sat in the afterglow on an exposed rib to drink warm beer, the sandy air whooshing up our noses and into our hair. I tried to imagine what Genghis Khan would have made of it all, his steely eyes staring back at me from the beer can. Then the night closed in and I skidded down the dune on a smashed-up sandboard. If I had
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the chance again, I’d stay for a week. As for legendary citizen Khan, his lifeblood lingers further north. In Kharkhorin, the modern town built beside the 13th-century capital, Karakorum, Khan retains godlike status. Chinggis, as the Mongols know him, rode from the steppe to India and China, before overthrowing the Turks and every ruler in the spaces between, from Kiev to the Korean peninsula. He was a stony-hearted predator, fathering thousands, and killing his half-brother in cold blood for stealing a fish from his plate when he was a child. So Almagul said. Honestly, they don’t make warlords like they used to. Karakorum came as a shock after this intimidating build-up. Atlantislike, it has disintegrated over time and tells the history of the Mongol Empire in fragmented stone. Apart from one or two unkempt sculptures, the emptiness let my imagination fill in the blanks. I thought of Mongol kingdoms and Xanadu palaces, battlegrounds and mounted warriors, but all I found amid the desolate grassland was two piddly chiselled turtles. ‘They are symbols of eternity,’ Almalgul said. ‘Not that they helped Chinggis.’ The surrounding scene was stark and remote, with an out-offocus softness to it. A complicated place to conquer the world from, I thought. Or so it was once. That night, away to the far west, lay the land of the eagle hunters and our final journey on the long road ahead. Mysterious birds and moonshine were waiting and another strange adventure in this remote, wild land was about to begin. Thinking back on it now, the sense of freedom I found out there was incomparable. And I’m left with a goosebump realisation that little of Mongolia’s badlands will change any time soon. In days like these, to be out on the dreamlike steppe, driving across a ger-dotted wilderness, feels like heading in the right direction. To book a trip, call 800 DNATA or visit dnatatravel.com
Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine / News Licensing
MONGOLIA
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I WATCHED AS THEY GALLOPED CAREFREE ACROSS THE GRAVEL. UNBROKEN, UNTAMED, THEY GHOSTED ACROSS THE PLAINS
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CROATIA These pages, from left to right: an inquisitive lemure; Ranomafana National Park
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MADAGASCAR
Jewel-green chameleons. Lemurs the size of fairground teddies. A trip to ‘the eighth continent’ feels like a journey to another world. Prepare for landing, says Chris Haslam
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MADAGASCAR
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t ’s Planet Earth, but not as we know it: an ark afloat off the African coast wherein life has evolved to the hypnotic beat of a different drum; where gods and ghosts walk the hills; where human life is ruled by taboo — or fady. In an increasingly homogenised world, the island nation nicknamed ‘the eighth continent’ retains more than anywhere else the power to alienate, astonish and awaken your inner explorer. It’s chaotic and hard to reach, with bad roads and worse infrastructure. And it’s wonderful. Go sooner rather than later, though: deforestation, forest degradation and the illegal wildlife trade present an irreversible threat to the island’s biodiversity. This is no country for independent travel, so go with your tour operator and, by bearing witness, you’ll return as an ambassador for Madagascar’s conservation. You’ll be told to visit during the dry season, April to September, but you could easily wait till October — when skies are still blue and baby lemurs are on show. A Malagasy woman with her face painted in the Vezo-Sakalava tradition
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YOUR GUIDE WILL LEAD YOU THROUGH DALÍ-ESQUE GULLIES TO JUNGLE-FRINGED ROCK POOLS OF JADE-GREEN WATER, WHERE CROWDS OF LEMURS WILL WATCH YOU SWIM
Day 1: Tana Fly into Antananarivo, known as Tana. The favela-like capital certainly isn’t Madagascar’s highlight, but you won’t be staying long. Before heading to your hotel — arranged via your tour operator — change sterling for local ariary at the airport as few Madagascan shops or restaurants take credit cards. Days 2–3: AndasibeMantadia National Park Your guide (again booked via your tour operator) should arrive early for the three-hour drive east to AndasibeMantadia National Park, a steamy rainforest with critically endangered
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indri — the world’s largest species of lemur, the size of a fairground teddy. Try to spot them on easy treks — sightings aren’t guaranteed, but you’ll hear their whooping through the dense forest. Make time for the ramshackleyet-fragrant Andasibe village, the best place in the world to buy home-grown vanilla pods at wholesale prices. Day 4: Vakinankaratra As you climb into the Vakinankaratra region of the central highlands, the beguiling landscape makes it hard to establish a sense of location. There are mountains, zebu cattle herds, paddy fields, churches — you could be
Aerial view of Sainte Marie island
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Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/News Licensing
These pages, from left to right: baobab trees under a blanket of stars; scenic view of Route Nationale 7, with the so-called cardinal's hat mountain in the background
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MADAGASCAR
Day 8: Ambalavao Now head into the high mountains of Andringitra National Park, stopping en route to admire Ambalavao, an unassuming market town set among glittering granite crags and pools reflecting rice fields. The artisan paper mill sounds dull, but don’t miss it — masters press wild flowers into sheets made from mulberry-tree bark. It’s another three hours south to your campsite in the Andringitra’s Tsaranoro Valley, the ‘Yosemite of Madagascar’. The nickname does the cloud-veiled peaks of this ethereal spot a disservice — you’ll weep at its beauty.
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THE NICKNAME ‘YOSEMITE OF MADAGASCAR’ DOES THE CLOUDVEILED PEAKS OF THIS ETHEREAL SPOT A DISSERVICE — YOU’LL WEEP AT ITS BEAUTY
in Vietnam or Sri Lanka, but for the absence of trees. That’s the effect of a deforestation process that started in AD600 and only stopped once there was nothing left. Lack of vegetation accelerates erosion, so as you head for Antsirabe city, about four hours south of Tana, you pass landscapes seemingly scooped out by a giant spoon. These are the lavake, a type of gully also seen — appropriately, given Madagascar’s otherworldliness — on Mars. Day 5: Antsirabe city Antsirabe’s biggest attraction is its Alpine-style Hôtel des Thermes, a thermal bathhouse built in the 19th century for weekending French colonialists. It’s now a spot to meet Madagascans, who pay for a dip in the outside pool. Elsewhere, the
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town’s craft industry is a wonder of recycling, improvisation and strong opinions. If you want to know about deforestation, speak to woodcarvers at Asabotsy Market. Otherwise, take a seat outside Café de l’Alliance and watch farmers, schoolkids, herdsmen and merchants rush past in pousse-pousse cycle rickshaws or overloaded taxi brousses minibuses. Days 6–7: Ranomafana National Park Two days in the Kipling-esque rainforests of Ranomafana probably isn’t sufficient time to catch the golden and greater bamboo lemurs — the rarest of the family. But it’s enough to follow your guide along trails to see acrobatic red-fronted browns, hefty Milne-Edwards’s sifakas, jewel-like frogs and chameleons.
Days 9–10: Tsaranoro Valley Walking the Tsaranoro is like falling into the pages of a novel by H Rider Haggard: a stroll in a lost world of mountain, moor and sparkling water. Look out for the ring-tailed lemurs that share the wide valley with the Betsileo people, fêted as the country’s best farmers. Fady rules behaviour up here; it is believed that two souls leave the body after death, with one lingering in the mountains, offering assistance or causing mischief to the living. Sit down at any farmstead and they’ll happily explain how complicated life can be in paradise. Days 11–12: Isalo Heading west, the scenery gets even better. You’re travelling from the glittering peaks and wispy waterfalls of the green Tsaranoro Valley to the yellow desert and wind-sculpted sandstone spires of Isalo National Park. Your guide will lead you through Dalí-esque gullies to jungle-fringed rock pools of jade-green water, where crowds of lemurs will watch you swim. Days 13–14: Ifaty It’s a four-hour drive to Ifaty on Madagascar’s western shore. With its palm-shaded beaches and languid fishing scene, it’s just the spot you need for a couple of days of decompression, before the 90-minute flight north from Toliara to Tana for your flight home. To book a trip, call 800 DNATA or visit dnatatravel.com worldtravellerme.com 33
JAPAN
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OUTER HEBRIDES
On Lewis and Harris, in Scotland’s Outer Hebrides, an eternity of sky meets an ocean of heathers and waters prowled by orcas. For the solitary soul, says Jeremy Lazell, it’s love at first sight
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y first experience of Lewis and Harris — part of my great hitchhiking adventure in the Outer Hebrides in 1995 — lasted all of one hour. I really needed at least a week to do justice to this place (it may have two names, but Lewis and Harris is one island). Having been waylaid by storms halfway up the island chain, though, I had to race the last 80km north to make my ferry from the main town, Stornoway, to the Scottish mainland. Blinking back from the deck towards the dwindling settlements and soaring summits, I promised myself one thing: I’d be back. What I’d witnessed in that too-short hour on Lewis and Harris had fired something deep within. Below the road I’d seen a beckoning foreverness of blinding white sand and turquoise sea. Above the hills a fiery rainbow had blazed incandescent against jagged, inky peaks. On the outskirts of Stornoway a woman in skirt and heels had climbed out of her car and lifted a sheep off the road. I was sold. Why were there no tourists? The short answer is that the island is a hell of a long way from almost everywhere. Marooned at the top of the Outer Hebrides chain, Lewis and Harris — Lewis occupies the top two thirds, Harris makes up the rest — is two and a half hours by ferry from Ullapool (which is itself a four-hour drive north of Edinburgh or Glasgow). It’s about an hour by air to Stornoway, but you can fly there only from Glasgow, Edinburgh or Inverness. Throw in midges in summer that will sap your very will to live and it’s no surprise that the island gets only about 200,000 visitors a year. The perfect place to escape the staycation hordes, then? Late last September I got a chance to see what autumn there is like, seeing through that promise I’d made on the ferry 24 years ago. On arrival in Stornoway, the omens were mixed. The town was founded by Vikings in the early 9th century (the name was originally Stjórnavágr) and it still has a windblown, salty seadog kind of charm. You brush up against it here and there: in the supermarket I queue behind a Latvian trawler worker buying vodka and cigarettes, his oilskins covered in fish scales and blood. But somehow I’d hoped for more than the slightly dispiriting gauntlet of charity shops and Chinese restaurants I am forced to run between 36 worldtravellerme.com
blustery squalls off the Atlantic. ‘Is there another bit?’ I ask the bartender at McNeill’s that night. ‘Have you been to the castle?’ he mumbles. ‘Yes,’ I say. Then ‘No.’ He’s not being entirely fair. I’ve had a sea-view stroll in the grounds of Lews Castle, and later stumbled into the Criterion Bar just as some whiskered oldtimer started some impromptu reeling on his fiddle. At Museum nan Eilean I was genuinely moved to see six of the famous 800-year-old Viking walrus-ivory chessmen, discovered in a sand dune just across the island near Uig and on longterm loan from the British Museum. But it’s the crags and coves glimpsed years ago that I’m after. I buy supplies, sort out my camping gear and get the hell out of there. The road north from Stornoway crosses a treeless ‘flow’ (peat moor) pockmarked here and there by the shovel scars of generations of peat cutters. It’s a wild, daunting eternity of sky, an endless ocean of heather, burnished with autumn’s rust. I pass hamlets with names such as Barvas and Borve, Melbost and Sgiogarstaigh, their hunkered crofts like flotsam scattered on the briny wind, and park at Eoropaidh village. Almost 1.5km as the puffin flies from the Butt of Lewis lighthouse, this is right at the very top of the Outer Hebrides. Guidebooks claim it’s a 40-minute walk across the flow from Eoropaidh to the lighthouse, one hour if you go via the coastal path. It takes me six. For one thing, the coastline is dotted with sandy coves, each more ludicrously lovely than the next. I have to stop for a swim — twice. Warmed by months of sun, the sea is at its warmest in September, and for 20 minutes at a time I paddle between fingers of rock in search of otters
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I VISIT THE 5,000-YEAROLD CALLANISH STANDING STONES, JUST AS THE LAST OF THE SUN HAS TURNED THE SEA LOCHS BELOW A BURNING PATCHWORK OF RUSSETS AND REDS. STAGGERINGLY, I’M COMPLETELY ALONE
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OUTER HEBRIDES
This page, clockwise from left: stone-andthatch black houses; highland cattle; half dozen freshly opened oysters; mangersta sea stacks
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JAPAN These pages, from left to right: mountain heather by a loch; Butt of Lewis Lighthouse
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AT DUN CARLOWAY, IT’S JUST ME AND A PAIR OF PIGEONS COOING IN THE IRON AGE FORT (a common sight here) or simply float in the cobalt shallows, Iceland just 800km away, across the orca-filled Atlantic. Then there are the cliffs just south of the lighthouse: a raucous riot of mewling kittiwakes and circling fulmars that pin me to the clifftop machair in exhilarated wonder. The longer I stay, the closer the fulmars pass by me, wheeling up on air currents and staring me in the eye. I lie on my back, harebells nodding beside me in the still-warm September sun, dizzy at the thrilling here-be-dragonsness of it all. It is as if I am teetering all alone at the very edge of the world. After the serenity of the walk, the lighthouse is too crowded for my Robinson Crusoe mood — I have to share it with three cyclists celebrating their journey’s end. I walk back the way I’ve come, pitch my tent above a sandy cove (leave-no-trace wild camping is legal across the island) and nod off as the stars appear over the purpling horizon. It’s not the last time I get the island to myself. Even the big-hitting attractions are weirdly quiet. At Gearrannan, I wander among the restored stoneand-thatch black houses in silence, the ghosts of the unbreakable generations 38 worldtravellerme.com
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who crofted here still whispering on the sea breeze. At Dun Carloway, it’s just me and a pair of pigeons cooing in the Iron Age broch (fort). Tow it to the mainland and it would be coach-party central. Then there are the Callanish Standing Stones, a 5,000-year-old Stonehenge-onsea (only without tickets and fencing). I visit just as the last of the sun has turned the sea lochs below a burning patchwork of russets and reds. Staggeringly, I’m completely alone, hugging the sunbaked neolithic stones and grinning. It’s hardly surprising that the island is riddled with ‘blow-ins’ — people who came here for adventure or work and never left. In Upper Barvas, coastguard Paul Tunstall has turned his front rooms into a brilliantly bonkers antiques shop, selling a hoarder’s heaven of whale bones and gramophones, antique barometers and Harris Tweed jackets. And in the lonely, sea-loch-side hamlet of Miavaig, Mancunian Dave Smith (aka Dave the Diver) sells same-day harvested treats at the Scallop Shack by the pier. I scoff a plate of the sweetest seared scallops with black pudding, then join a three-hour boat trip from the pier with Seatrek, stopping for sea caves, a sea eagle nest
OUTER HEBRIDES
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These pages: the ancient standing stones of Callanish
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OUTER HEBRIDES
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Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine
THE HAMLET OF NORTHTON OFFERS A PERFECT SLIVER OF BONE-WHITE SAND THAT’S EMPTY SAVE FOR A FAMILY OF STARTLED SHEEP MUNCHING KELP AT THE WATER’S EDGE and a magical hour of solitary wandering around the uninhabited island of Pabbay. Rounding a bend while driving west across the headland, I have to pull over immediately to take in what I’m seeing: sand, sea and yet more sand. It’s Uig Sands, a deep, 1.5km-long tidal bay lapped by an aquamarine lagoon. I’d still be there today but for the distant memory of even better beaches — plus mountains — on Harris. Instead, I have a bowl of mussels at the striking new hilltop Uig Sands restaurant, staring speechless through the wall-to-wall glass over the very beach where the mussels were landed earlier this morning. Reluctantly, I drag myself back to the car. There is no sign to tell you when you’ve crossed into Harris. You just know. Here on the southern part of the island, the heather suddenly rears up on both sides of the road in ominous rusty waves; walls of glowering granite thunder above. These are some of the oldest mountains on the planet. Formed three billion years ago, they are two thirds as old as time itself. In a disconcertingly empty lay-by, I put on my walking boots and follow the footpath up Clisham, at 799m the tallest peak in the Outer Hebrides. It is sunny when I start, a white-out when I reach the summit. Not for me the ‘superb views over mountain and sea’ promised by the Walk Highlands website. I shelter inside the circular cairn and look up to see a raven circling in the mist. Suddenly, a deep visceral moan echoes through the grey. Somewhere on this sea of hidden summits, a stag is bellowing to his mates. The road south from the mountains to the bottom of Harris hugs the west coast in an almost painful procession of spectacular white-sand beaches. Some — Luskentyre and Scarista — make me sad because they’ll never be mine; others are just annoying because
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I can’t drive past without stopping for one more Insta selfie. I leave the car in the hamlet of Northton and walk for an hour past Highland cows and skylarks to Tràigh na Teampaill, a perfect sliver of bone-white sand that’s empty save for a family of startled sheep munching kelp at the water’s edge. My heart is still fluttering when I get to the very south of the island at Rodel, where I stop for chowder from chef Sam Barnes’s Seafood Shack below the forbidding 15thcentury hilltop church. I blab about the sheep on the beach, the walk to get there, the almost unfathomable beauty of it all. He chuckles. ‘Have you been to Tràigh Mheilein?’ So on my last night, Tràigh Mheilein is where I go, driving on a single-track rollercoaster of a road running west from Harris’s main town, Tarbert, stopping time and again to toot at the sunbathing sheep blocking the road. Car sick, I park at the end of the road at Huisinish and trudge across a boggy headland path towards Sam’s beach. ‘Better be worth it,’ I think, grumpily. It’s worth it, all right. Effectively a spit at one end, the beach merges with the shallows in a mosaic of stained-glass greens and blues, then stretches north for 1.5km fringed by emerald grass. There are sandpipers playing grandmother’s footsteps with the surf; a pair of oyster catchers poking about for clams; a seal staring from the blue. But otherwise it’s just me. Half of me is unnerved; the other half pitches his tent on the grass, fires up a brew, and calls out to the seal. I’ll be coming back again, that’s for sure, and next time I won’t wait 25 years.
To book a trip, call 800 DNATA or visit dnatatravel.com worldtravellerme.com 41
Icebergs float in a fjord under the northern lights
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GREENLAND
Harsh Reality It’s one of Earth’s harshest landscapes — but our ‘extreme’ expert Chris Haslam has made your trip to Greenland nice and easy…
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umanity clings to the edges of Greenland’s two million square kilometres of wilderness like puffins on a cliff, seemingly living by the grace of the goddess Sassuma Arnaa, wronged mother of the sea, and Kokksaut, a bird god who summons storms by ruffling his feathers. The immensity and mystery of a land buried beneath an ice cap have inspired an Inuit culture of grim delight: legend says that Arsarnerit — the northern lights — are ancestors playing football with the severed head of an errant child. The wilderness is wandered by Qivittoq — vengeful outcasts with supernatural powers — and if you can tell a good ghost story Greenlanders will buy you drinks all night. The best time to visit is late September, with long daylight hours, bearable temperatures and the chance to see the northern lights. It’s also a good time to spot blue, humpback and other whale species in the waters off the southern top. Finally, while Greenland makes independent travel easy — good air links, a reliable ferry network and plenty of simple accommodation choices — you’ll pay less and be better protected if you book through a tour operator.
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CANADA
Day 1: Iceland Once you reach Greenland, then Air Iceland Connect goes onward to Narsarsuaq. But before you get there why not spend a night in Reykjavík at somewhere cool — say, 101 Hotel? Make the most of the city’s cosmopolitan bar scene, because the only nightlife in Greenland is ancestors kicking heads across the sky. Day 2: Narsarsuaq It’s a two-hour-20-minute flight to Narsarsuaq (population: 123), a former US airbase with an edge-of-the-world feeling. Situated on the Tunulliarfik Fjord, it’s where Norse Eric the Red landed in AD982, attracted by a longgone forest that inspired the country’s misleading name. Make time for the museum, which tells the story of the Viking colony, then hike up Signal Hill for a glimpse of the southernmost tongue of the vast Greenland ice sheet. Stay at Hotel Narsarsuaq because, well, it’s the only one in town. Day 3: Narsaq Take the Diskoline ferry for an hour’s cruise, eyes peeled for whales, down the iceberg-strewn fjord to Narsaq, with its cluster of brightly coloured timber houses. Here, kayaking past floating ice is thrilling, as is hiking to the 450m summit of Tasiigaaq for views 44 worldtravellerme.com
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SIT SLACKJAWED IN 38C THERMAL WATERS, GAZING AT THE EVERCHANGING PASSAGE OF LIGHT, SHADE AND ICE ACROSS SEA AND MOUNTAINS, UNTIL YOU TURN INTO A PRUNE
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of icy mountains and islands. Wander the foreshore, observing Narsaq’s hunting and fishing community, then stay at no-frills Hotel Narsaq. Day 4: Bredefjord Wrap up warm and board the Blue Ice Explorer for a cruise up the bergcongested straits of Bredefjord, to where the Qalerallit and Naajaat glaciers meet the sea. The journey is an ice masterclass, showing off the soupy ‘brash’ stuff through to growlers (so called for the noise they make when they scrape along a boat’s hull) and understated ‘bergy bits’, sometimes as
GREENLAND
These pages, clockwise from top left: houses cling limpet-like to the island; 101 Hotel; boiled shrimp; colourful houses on the island of Uummannaq; the tip of an iceberg shows above the water; a waterfall on Disko Iskand.
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GREENLAND
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SIT SLACK-JAWED IN 38C THERMAL WATERS, GAZING AT THE EVER-CHANGING PASSAGE OF LIGHT, SHADE AND ICE ACROSS SEA AND MOUNTAINS, UNTIL YOU TURN INTO A PRUNE
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COLDNESS HITS AS IF SOMEONE HAS OPENED A FREEZER DOOR; THE AIR SMELLS CRISP, JUST RELEASED AFTER MILLENNIA TRAPPED IN ICE
Day 5: Uunartoq Iceland’s Blue Lagoon will seem like a municipal swimming pool after you’ve spent the day at Uunartoq island, southern Greenland’s natural spa. Camera batteries are exhausted by the sheer beauty of the four-hour boat journey from Narsaq. Once there, sit slack-jawed in 38C thermal waters, gazing at the ever-changing passage of light, shade and ice across sea and mountains, until you turn into a prune. 46 worldtravellerme.com
Days 6–7: Qaqortoq Greenlanders compare the region’s most cosmopolitan town with the vertiginous villages of the Amalfi coast and, if you squint into the icy wind cutting across Julianahaab Bay, the polychromatic rows of defiantly cheerful houses indeed look a bit like Positano. Qaqortoq is home to Greenland’s cultural scene, its most touristy aspect a sculptural treasure hunt featuring 40-odd abstract carvings in rock faces throughout town. With two nights here, there’s time for a boat trip to the 14th-century ruins of Hvalsey Church, an atmospheric site. Stay at the arty Hotel Qaqortoq, with views across the bay. Day 8: Narsarsuaq Take the 8.40am ferry from Qaqortoq, arriving in Narsarsuaq in time to check in for the lunchtime departure of your Air Iceland Connect flight to Reykjavík. To book a trip, call 800 DNATA or visit dnatatravel.com
Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/News Licensing
big as a house. Only chunks larger than this, showing just a tenth of their bulk above water, count as icebergs. When you reach the glaciers, the multi-hued walls of ancient ice attack all senses. Coldness hits as if someone has opened a freezer door; the air smells crisp, just released after millennia trapped in ice. Hear glaciers groaning, then roaring, as tower block-size slabs calve from the wall with a thunderous splash. On the way back, you’ll cast a line for cod.
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These pages, from left to right: a sailboat glides This page:aSoft, between glaciers; polar colourful around bear takes corals time out on the Island shelfLizard of an iceberg
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Costa 48 worldtravellerme.com
COSTA RICA
living In remote Costa Rica, the coffee’s aromatic, the sea sensuous, the flora vivid and the fauna a tad pungent, says Alex Robinson
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he deep-red sun sinks seawards, over a beach you could walk along for hours without reaching either end, sending shimmering reflections across long tidal pools oozing into the Pacific. Dew from the tropical air has condensed on the sides of my glass of mojito, which is perfect: icy and lime-tangy, with a hint of mint. Along the beach someone is playing a Spanish song pizzicato: finger-picked guitar music mixing with the wash of waves. Bliss, I think. It couldn’t get any better. And then it does: as the sun dips into the ocean, dolphins crest, fins silhouetted against the low light. To think that only a week ago, as I made my way here, I was wondering if I’d made an awful mistake. I’d long wanted to come to Costa Rica, naively picturing the ideal: monkeys in branches, big-eyed tree frogs and untrodden strands where rainforest meets rolling green waves. A friend of mine proceeded to throw a big bucket of cold water over my fantasy when I told him about it one Saturday over brunch. "It’s a nice dream," he said. "Sure there is forest — and there are great beaches, but they are so busy." It turned out he had a point: Costa Rica is essentially a spine of wild, fuming volcanoes in the middle of Central America, covered in jungle and a patchwork of coffee farms. These fall in corrugated valleys to both Atlantic and Pacific coasts. Beaches on the former are forest-backed, and either ash-grey or narrow, silvery slivers. They’re better on the latter, but heavily corralled by concrete condos or completely unreachable. "Of course, you could go to eastern Nicoya," he added casually. "To Santa Teresa. But you might not thank me for the tip. It’s tough to reach and the road is really rough." I did go. And I’m so glad I went. Although I have to say, he was right about the road. Getting to Costa Rica was easy enough: a change of aircraft in Amsterdam and a two-hour drive and I was on the Nicoya Peninsula, which sticks out like a thumb from the southwestern Pacific coast by the border with Nicaragua. I’d picked up a four50 worldtravellerme.com
COSTA RICA
Opening pages, from left to right: great green macaws take flight; heading out to surf These pages: Relaxing as the waves roll in
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THE LATE-AFTERNOON SUN GILDED THE PACIFIC, TURNING IT INTO A SEA OF HONEY
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TOKYO
wheel drive, overnighted at an airport hotel, and was away in the early morning. This was classic Central America: tropical light, distant volcanoes, men in straw hats machete-cutting sugar-cane fields, piling the sticks onto the back of SUVs. I stopped for a caffeine hit in Jicaral, a village of spaghetti-western belltowers and bougainvillea-pink plazas. The coffee was strong, cut from bushes that grew in the central Cordillera mountains, which rose, misty, a few dozen kilometres away across a sleeve of blue water. Costa Rica: the Rich Coast. Today, coffee and tourism drive the economy, yet the country was founded on a myth of gold, supposedly named by Columbus in 1502, impressed by Amerindians with ornate gold jewellery. "Pura vida," said the waitress with an almighty grin. "It’s what we say in Costa Rica. 'Pure life' — but here it means different things. For me, it’s 'Celebrate life.'" Famous last words. After Jicaral, the road turned to dirt, narrowed, steeped in jungle; exciting for the first hour, maybe. After four, I’d had enough of this life, pura or otherwise. Was Santa Teresa a myth? I only knew this: it is something of a low-scale celebrity haven, counting supermodel Gisele among the famous fans who, I might add, tend to helicopter in. I pressed the accelerator petulantly, crashing over more potholes. As I was reaching the limits of my exhaustion, a sleepy village appeared: Santa Teresa. Worth the rollercoaster ride? It certainly looked promising. The late-afternoon sun gilded the Pacific, turning it into a sea of honey. Ridges sparsely sprinkled with sugar-white villas fell to a coast shaggy with coconut-palm coves, edged with long swathes of sand. Things looked even better by the time I reached the hotel, one of just a few around Santa Teresa, itself little more than a street of surf shops and cafés with chalkboards offering acai and goji berry smoothies. "Bienvenido! Pura vida!" said Carlos, the check-in clerk at the Florblanca, a sprinkling of villas, as he walked me to my cabin-in-the-woods. Another espouser of the national motto (were these people being paid
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THE FOREST WAS A WILD CHORUS OF SONGS. I COULD HEAR THE LAPLAP OF THE SEA
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by the tourist board?), Carlos offered another take on its meaning. "It means 'pure life," as in “Be alive. Now!”’ Pure life was everywhere: red heliconia flowers lined the path through the trees. A capuchin monkey daintily picked fruit from a palm. Lizards skittered about the veranda of my villa. The forest was a wild chorus of songs. I could hear the lap-lap of the sea. And so I settled in by the pool and soaked it up, watching hummingbirds suck nectar from flowers and blue butterflies float through shafts of dappled light. Some days I took long beach walks, only occasionally passing another soul. On one walk I saw a surfer, small as a speck, his board glinting in the sunlight. It took me half an hour to reach him. He emerged, glistening, from the waves, like a Latin American Matthew McConaughey, swim-honed, with sun-bleached hair. Edwin, my new friend, spent the next few hours teaching me how to surf. "This is how you put your feet," he said, pushing them to either end of the board, moving me to a placid pool and then to the ocean, where I tumbled inelegantly. "Pura…" he began. "Vida," I felt confident to add. Re-energised, I was beginning to know what it meant — the opposite of what I found in my holiday reading later that night: that Costa Rica was called ‘the poorest and most miserable Spanish colony in all Americas’ by an 18th-century governor who administered at arm’s length from distant Guatemala. Just monte y mata – mountains and forest. Before I left Nicoya, I went inland to see for myself. I hired a guide for a visit to the Cabo Blanco Absolute Natural Reserve, a 45-minute drive away,
COSTA RICA
Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/Times Licensing
This page: Irazu Volcano
arriving early in the morning so I’d have the best chance of seeing wildlife. Mariana, my guide, met me at the gates, looking serious in jungle khakis, with binoculars, a water bottle dangling from her belt. We reached a beach and a plaque that Mariana told me was dedicated to Olof Wessberg, a young Scandinavian whose quest for a tropical Shangri-La brought him to Nicoya a lifetime ago. "Cabo Blanco was Costa Rica’s first national park," she explained. ‘Olof founded it in the 1960s. Then he died – murdered – lobbying for our second national park in Osa. Nobody in Costa Rica wanted to save the rainforest then. They wanted to cut it down for cattle.’ Mariana looked out to sea. "Olof was pura vida," she said. "It was his work that helped make Costa Rica rich – rich
in biodiversity, rich in the pure life." Today, reforestation exceeds deforestation. Costa Rica’s myth of gold is fulfilled – the country is the eco-tourism world’s gold standard. Mariana was a mine of information as she led me onwards, the way ahead now cutting through tangles of saplings, climbing up steep slopes, dropping over rocks. Sweat dripped from us. Somewhere in the undergrowth I heard a low grunt, then a rustle. Mariana pressed her finger to her lips. "Shhh, I think it’s a peccary!" I remembered a guide once, on a journey in South America, turning white with fear and bolting up the nearest tree when we heard a peccary there. Immediately at Mariana’s outburst I pictured a labradorsized wild pig with vicious-looking teeth. I dropped my bag, sending the animal
shooting out of the trees, right in front of Mariana. It wasn’t a peccary. It was small, pied, squirrel-like animal, blackand-white, with a pretty, bushy tail. "Cute," I said, moving forward to take a closer look. "Stop!" Mariana shouted. "It’s a skunk. But it was too late. The animal looked round nonchalantly, turned its back and squirted. Despite moving like a cat, Mariana caught the spray on the edge of her shoe. The smell was of rotten cabbage. As parting gifts from Costa Rica go, it was not my idea of pura vida. Whatever, it certainly put the reek into Costa Rica — a magical Latin American land that, I can confidently say, overwhelms the senses in every way. To book a trip, call 800 DNATA or visit dnatatravel.com worldtravellerme.com 53
WORLD TRAVELLER X LE MÉRIDIEN AL AQAH BEACH RESORT
STAYCATION
Le Méridien Al Aqah Beach Resort Scenic natural beauty meets wholesome family-fun at this Fujairah based hotel THE ROOMS & SUITES With the resort set to a backdrop of the Hajar Mountains and floor-toceiling windows exhibiting impressive Indian Ocean views, a stay here is a reconnection with nature. If a balcony is desirable, the Superior Room is a sound choice, or if you’re after an exclusive experience a Royal Club room or suite comes with express check-in, and access to the Royal Club Lounge.
THE FOOD With eight restaurants and bars to choose from, variety is the spice of a staycation here. Taste offers up the flavours of Thailand served in a stylish environment, while the Gonu Bar & Grill is your go-to for grilled meats and alfresco ocean-side dining. Italian dishes and ambiance are on the menu at Sapore, with Baywatch Beach Bar cooks up fresh Mediterranean dishes on the sand.
THE ACTIVITIES Al Aqah beach calls with its various ocean-based activities; those with a PADI Certification can explore a wreck close by and meet the local marine life. Or get even closer to the fish – including tuna and barracuda with a Fly-Fishing experience. Those looking to recharge should head to Spa Al Aqah for an extensive rejuvenation experience including Ayurvedic treatments.
To find out more, call +971 9 244 9000 or visit marriott.com 54 worldtravellerme.com
Book the ultimate getaway to Fujairah’s iconic resort. Soak up the panoramic views of the Indian Ocean from your spacious sea facing room, dive into the largest pool on the East coast, dine at a choice of seven distinct restaurants, or re-energize with adrenalin fueled water-sports. Offering one of the best beach resort experiences in the region, Le Méridien Al Aqah is the ideal location for intimate getaways, special occasions, weekend breaks and family holidays. For more information or to book your stay, call + 971 9 244 9000 or visit our website www.lemeridien-alaqah.com
N 25° 30’ E 56° 21’ DESTINATION UNLOCKED
WORLD TRAVELLER X JW MARRIOTT MARQUIS DUBAI
STAYCATION
JW Marriott Marquis Dubai Reach for the sky at the world’s tallest five-star hotel THE ROOMS & SUITES Wake up in the clouds and revel in stunning floor-to-ceiling views of the city's futuristic skyline or the turquoise waters of the Arabian Gulf. Sleek suites boast marshmallow soft beddings and soundproof windows for a serene slumber, while Executive Rooms come with perks including complimentary drinks, a continental breakfast and afternoon tea in the Executive Lounge.
THE FOOD Foodies are spoilt for choice with more than 14 dining venues on offer. Splurge on a unique sky-high dinner at Prime68 steakhouse before heading for a glitzy nightcap at Vault. To spice it up, Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra serves traditional Indian recipes with a contemporary twist. Meanwhile, the recently opened Garden invites you to a fiesta of culinary delights with its zesty Latin American flavours.
THE ACTIVITIES Discover the shiniest gems the city has to offer with top attractions including The Dubai Mall, Burj Khalifa and Dubai Opera right around the corner. After a day out and about, pamper yourself back at the hotel with a mini refresh at Saray Spa. Signature hammam treatments, bespoke facials and holistic rituals draw upon the spa's Arabian heritage for a topto-toe rejuvenating experience.
To find out more, call +971 4 414 0000 or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com 56 worldtravellermagazine.com
Service and detail that shape your journey. Immerse in the luxury of rich experiences at the JW Penthouse Suite and Marquis Penthouse Suite, spread across two levels of impeccably designed space with a touch of traditional Arabic design. Each 624sqm suite features two separate bedrooms with two separate living rooms. Additional benefits include complimentary airport transfers, private check-in and check-out and access to the Executive Lounge on the 37th floor. Enjoy celebratory dining in 10 award-winning restaurants and bars, and pampering at the luxurious Saray Spa.
JW MarriottÂŽ MarquisÂŽ Hotel Dubai marriott.com/DXBJW Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com
4 INSPIRED BY
Reader offers Great deals to get you packing
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FOUR FANTASTIC HOLIDAYS BULGARIA
INTERCONTINENTAL HOTEL SOFIA
3 nights starting from USD 275 per person Includes: stay 3 nights in a Standard Room with Breakfast and private return airport transfers. Valid: until 31 January 2021 58 worldtravellerme.com
SERBIA
SEYCHELLES
HILTON SEYCHELLES LABRIZ RESORT & SPA
HYATT REGENCY BELGRADE
3 nights starting from USD 1,590 per person
Includes: stay 3 nights in a Double Room with breakfast daily and private return airport transfers. Offer: 25% saving on stay Valid: until 31 January 2021
Includes: stay 3 nights in a Deluxe Beachfront Pool Villa with breakfast and dinner daily, private return airport transfers and return ferry transfers. Offer: 40% savings on stay and complimentary couple's massage Valid: until 31 January 2021
3 nights starting from USD 290 per person
TANZANIA
SAFARI & BEACH
5 nights starting from USD 3,295 per person Includes: stay 1 night in Dar Es Salaam with breakfast, 2 nights stay at Sand Rivers Lodge, Selous Game Reserve on all-inclusive basis with daily game drives, 2 nights at Melia Zanzibar on all-inclusive basis, private return airport transfers. Valid: until 31 January 2021
TAKE A WALK ON
THE WILD SIDE FROM
AED5,199PP
With travel now open across the wonderfully diverse landscapes of Africa, our travel experts have sourced our top picks of African safari journeys. Don’t miss out on our top-value packages, which include flights, transfers, safari drives, accommodation, meal plans and more... BOOK A SAFARI BREAK WHERE NATURE, WILDLIFE & ADVENTURE AWAITS!
To book your perfect safari journey, visit dnatatravel.com, call 800 DNATA (36282) or visit us in store.
DNATA TRAVEL OFFERS
WEEKEND ESCAPES UAE
SOFITEL DUBAI THE OBELISK 1 night starting from USD 100 per person Includes: stay 1 night in a Deluxe Room with breakfast & dinner Offer: savings on stay, 40% discount on spa Valid: until 31 December 2020 PARK HYATT DUBAI HOTEL 1 night starting from USD 145 per person Includes: stay 1 night in a Skyline View Room with breakfast & dinner Offer: 20% discount on spa, 20% disount on food & beverage, free room upgrade Valid: until 31 December 2020 JUMEIRAH ZAABEEL SARAY 1 night starting from USD 245 per person Includes: stay 1 night in a Superior King room with breakfast and dinner Offer: free entry to Wild Wadi Water Park Valid: Until 31 December 2020 THE RESIDENCES AT CAESARS PALACE BLUEWATERS DUBAI 1 night starting from USD 240 per person Includes: stay 1 night in a One Bedroom Residence with breakfast Offer: Saving on stay, kids stay free Valid: Until 31 December 2020 DOUBLE TREE BY HILTON RESORT & SPA MARJAN ISLAND RAS AL KHAIMAH 1 night starting from USD 100 per person Includes: stay 1 night in a Twin Room with breakfast Offer: savings on stay, Kids stay & eat free Valid: until 31 December 2020
How to book
60 worldtravellerme.com
Sofitel Obelisk, Dubai
WALDORF ASTORIA RAS AL KHAIMAH 1 night starting from USD 205 per person Includes: stay 1 night in a Classic Room with breakfast Offer: savings on stay, kids stay & eat free Valid: until 31 December 2020 THE CHEDI AL BAIT SHARJAH 1 night starting from USD 95 per person Includes: stay 1 night in a Chedi Deluxe Room with breakfast Offer: savings on stay, Kids stay & eat free Valid: Until 31 December 2020 RADISSON BLU RESORT, FUJAIRAH 1 nights starting from USD 80 per person Includes: stay 1 night in a Standard Room with breakfast Offer: savings on stay, kids stay & eat free Valid: until 31 December 2020
Park Hyatt Dubai Hotel Waldorf Astoria, Ras Al Khaimah
ANANTARA QASR AL SARAB ABU DHABI 1 night starting from USD 325 per person Includes: stay 1 night in a Deluxe Garden Room with breakfast and dinner Offer: savings on stay Valid: until 31 December 2020 PARK HYATT HOTEL & VILLAS, SAADIYAT ISLAND ABU DHABI 1 night starting from USD 130 per person Includes: stay 1 night in a Standard Park Room with breakfast and dinner Offer: savings on stay Valid: until 31 December 2020
By calling dnata on 800 DNATA
By stepping into a dnata outlet or by visiting dnatatravel.com
Anantara Qasr Al Sarab, Abu Dhabi
On the website you can also sign up to the dnata newsletter and receive more offers direct to your inbox. T&Cs apply.
T SE U LL A YO IS ME ED CO M L B E U W CL TO
TRULY ALL-INCLUSIVE OFFERS TO THE
MALDIVES ALL-INCLUSIVE HOLIDAY PACKAGES WITH CLUB MED Discover heaven on earth, where fine white sand meets the crystal clear, turquoise sea at Club Med’s all-inclusive luxury resort in the Maldives. Set on a private island, choose between our overwater eco-luxury bungalows with direct access to the sea or eco-luxury beach villas with their own private seafront.
3 nights
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USD 1,180
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CLUB MED KANI
THE FINOLHU VILLAS
Includes
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• Breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks and drinks daily • Return speed boat transfers • Complimentary non-motorised water sport activities • Day and night entertainment • Medical Insurance with COVID-19 coverage Children under 4 years stay FREE
• Breakfast, lunch, dinner, snacks and drinks daily • Return speed boat transfers • Complimentary non-motorised water sport activities • Dedicated butler, room-service, shuttle service, private check-in and packing services • Day and night entertainment • Medical Insurance with COVID-19 coverage
• PCR testing facilities on both sites and available at extra cost. • Medical Insurance is provided by Europ Assistance to cover COVID 19 medical situations in resorts worldwide, for all trips from now till April 2021. • All hotels operate and abide to health and safety standards as set by the Maldivian government. • Terms and conditions apply.
To book a Maldives escape, visit dnataTravel.com, call 800 DNATA (36282) or visit one of our travel experts in-store
READERS' AWARDS 2021
World Traveller Middle East
Readers’ Awards 2021 As we rework our bucket lists with our wanderlust renewed and make plans for what we all hope will be a new year full of life-affirming trips far and wide, we want to put those thoughts to further use by championing the travel industry in its unprecedented time of struggle. For that, we turn to you, our loyal readers, who over the past 15 years of the magazine have shared with us all your travel tales. Now’s your chance to tell the world, as we open voting for the World Traveller Middle East Readers’ Awards 2021. We have segregated the voting so that we can separately award Middle East-based hotels and those in the rest of the world. Vote in the Middle East awards and you’ll be in with a chance to win a 2-night, full-board stay at Dubai’s iconic Al Maha Desert Resort & Spa. Vote in the Rest of the World awards and you can win a trip of a lifetime, with a 3-night, full-board stay at The Four Seasons Safari Lodge Serengeti in Tanzania. Vote in both and you may just get to win both prizes!
To vote, visit worldtraveller.me 62 worldtravellerme.com
DIGITAL
Competition Time Four Seasons Safari Lodge Serengeti
GET SOCIAL WITH US
Stay ahead of the travel news by connecting with us on our social platforms and join the conversation by sharing your experiences. Here’s where you can find us…
@worldtravellerme Share some love on our dreamy destinations shots and tag us in your own for a chance to feature on our grid @WorldTravellerME Be the first to see our travel stories when we post them. @WTravellerME Tweet us your best travel moments with the hashtag #WorldTravellerME
Al Maha Desert Resort & Spa
Al Maha Desert Resort & Spa
Win a stay at Al Maha or a Serengeti safari with Four Seasons 'Tis the season for giving gifts and we're handing out two very special ones. To mark the launch of the World Traveller Middle East Readers' Awards 2021, we’ve teamed up with Dubai's Al Maha Desert Resort & Spa and Four Seasons Safari Lodge Serengeti, Tanzania, to offer voters the chance to win a two-night, full-board stay for two at the former, and a three-night, full-board stay for two at the latter. To find out more and to enter, visit worldtravellerme.com
THERE’S MORE ONLINE Join us on our website for exclusive content, including the latest travel news and tips on where to staycation…
1
INSPIRE ME The places topping our postpandemic travel list, and why you should add them to yours.
2
TRAVEL NEWS Learn the latest on air-travel, plus breaking stories from the resorts here and around the world.
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HOTELS & RESORTS Your go-to when deciding where to stay in the Middle East and beyond.
worldtravellerme.com 63
Suite dreams Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a suite that has a character and style all of its own
ROYAL RESIDENCE Park Hyatt, Zanzibar
Think of a place rich in natural beauty and cultural heritage. Now imaging experiencing it in five-star luxurious comfort and you'll be some way to dreaming yourself a stay at the Park Hyatt's Royal Residence in Zanzibar. Its sprawling three-bedrooms and living spaces have been designed to echo the country's vibrant landscape, whilst emphasising relaxation. With your own private elevator, fully-equipped kitchen and 12-seater dining room, sequestering away here is easy – although not wise, as you’ll be missing out on experiencing Stone Town, the UNESCO heritage site that this property sits so prettily in. 64 worldtravellerme.com
worldtravellerme.com Your passport to the Middle East's first fully bookable travel inspiration website
Extend your journey with World Traveller magazine by heading online to read more inspirational and exclusive travel content and take advantage of upto-the-minute hotel and holiday features
Dream Read Click Book
Inspiration. Expertly crafted. Comprising of two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is centrally located beside the Dubai Water Canal and offers a spectrum of facilities and services for a memorable experience. The hotel offers 1,608 elegant guest rooms and suites, over 10 award-winning restaurants and lounges, Saray Spa featuring traditional hammams and a state-of-the-art health club.
JW MarriottÂŽ MarquisÂŽ Hotel Dubai Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com