Issue 116 | december 2017 | complImentary copy
CzeCh out Prague’s luxury sCene KENYA sri lANKA BrAZil ABu dhABi
AustrAlIA
Epic but easy – with our ultimate 10-page guide
Produced in Dubai Production City
Where to go... In kuWaIt CIty
Into the blue Sea critters, snorkelling and underwater snapshots in the Philippines
C
Experience Polynesia in the heart of Dubai Parks and Resorts Step into an exciting world of curiosity with an unforgettable stay at Lapita, a unique gateway to the endless fun and enjoyment on offer at Dubai Parks and Resorts. Create moments to treasure with friends and family when you stay within Polynesian inspired rooms with complimentary theme park tickets*, bond over a meal at amazing restaurants or unwind at the Lapita lazy river. Exactly like nothing else.
Book now at lapitadubaihotel.com Tel +971 4 810 9999
Lapita, Dubai Parks and Resorts, Autograph Collection Hotels Dubai Parks and Resorts, Sheikh Zayed Road, P.O. Box 334221, Dubai, UAE LapitaHotel |
LapitaHotel |
*Terms and conditions apply
LapitaHotelDubai
Editor’s note
Editor’s note managing director Victoria Thatcher Editorial director John Thatcher group Commercial director David Wade managing Editor Faye Bartle Editor Tiffany Eslick art director Kerri Bennett designer Jamie Pudsey senior advertising manager Mia Cachero mia@hotmediapublishing.com Production manager Muthu Kumar
Flying over Australia’s Great Barrier Reef in a helicopter, before heading towards Hill Inlet on Whitsunday Island and then landing the chopper on Whitehaven beach for a picnic is perhaps one of my most incredible and memorable experiences to date. Of course I didn’t see the whole reef in my hour’s flip, that would be impossible, as this complex living system is about double the length of Italy. It’s as an insurmountable task as, say, trying to cover the whole country in one trip. This wild, beautiful and soulful place will draw you in with its diverse offerings and whether you’ve visited before, or a first timer, I’m sure you’ll be compelled to return. Our guide to this epic destination starts on page 36 – I hope you find it helpful. Another remarkable moment was when I came face to face with whale sharks off the coast of Oslob in The Philippines. Seeing these spotted giants of the deep had always been on my bucket list, and thinking back on this occasion, the whole adventure still seems surreal. There are more than 7,000 islands in the country’s archipelago, and beneath the shores surrounding them you’ll find a Technicolor world, rich in marine life. Writer Philippa Langrish brings you a round up of how to make the most this destination’s water world on page 52. From a host of travel news, to interviews with Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto and fashion illustrator Megan Hess, our Globetrotter pages (starting on page 17) are packed with inspiring stories. The Weekends section is full of surprising destinations – for those looking for a new and quick cultural escape, I’d encourage you to visit the enchanting city of Riga (see page 59). A new direct route from Abu Dhabi to the Latvian capital is now available with airBatlic. And don’t miss our tips about what to do in Kuwait City on page 60. The country may be one the smallest Gulf States, but its heritage, cultural and natural offerings are rich. Until next month, happy travelling, Tiffany Eslick tiffany@hotmediapublishing.com
Jun-Dec 2016 | 22,984 | BPA Consumer Audit Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller. Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494
CovEr imagE Sand dunes at Old Andado in the Red Centre, Central Australia
Clockwise from above: Outside The Three Brothers – the oldest medieval houses in Riga; snorkelling with whale sharks in the Philippines; making a pit stop on Whitehaven Beach, Australia
World Traveller 5
Wellness Hours at Saray Spa. Renew for the journey ahead with 50% off massages.
Surrender your senses with treatments designed to rejuvenate your body, mind and soul every Sunday to Thursday. Book any massage between 9am to 2pm and receive 50% off. Afterwards, treat yourself to a lunch at Lobby Lounge, grab a fresh sandwich from La Farine CafĂŠ & Bakery or enjoy pool-views with bites at Aqua. Lunch is not included within the offer. The price is based on the spa treatment selected. Saray Spa received an award for Best Male Spa at the World Luxury Spa Awards 2017 and Best Hydrotherapy Treatment at the Middle East Pool & Spa Awards 2016.
JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay T +971 4 414 6754 | mhrs.dxbjw.spa@marriott.com | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com JW Marriott Marquis Dubai |
@JWDubaiMarquis |
jwmarriottmarquisdubai
*Terms & Conditions: Offer is subject to availability. Indulge in additional facilities such as Swedish Dry Sauna, Steam Sauna, Circulation Shower, Jacuzzi and a relaxation lounge. Not valid on public holidays. The 50% off is applicable on spa only, and the offer is excluding lunch.
Contents December 2017 17
Wild Coast Tented Lodge, Sri Lanka
CheCk in
10
17
a change of scenery
Explore Kenya – one of Africa’s most beautiful countries; immerse yourself in Brazil’s ‘marvellous city’ and see stilt fishermen on the golden shores of Sri Lanka
24 27
globetrotter
Your guide to all that’s hot in travel, including trending destinations, hotels and spas. Plus famed fashion illustrator and author Megan Hess on her travel favourites
30
chef’s top tables
Celebrity chef Masaharu Morimoto on where to eat in China, Japan and the US shop My city
Eveningwear designer Elizabeth Kennedy on where to shop in New York City the locals’ guide to cape town
Three local personalities share their best ways to explore South Africa’s ‘Mother City’
World Traveller 7
Contents 52
Blue Lagoon at Kayangan Lake, Coron island, Philippines
DeSTinATiOnS
36
46 52
looking for an underwater odyssey, a scuba enthusiast intrigued by remote shores or a rookie freediver in search of guidance – we’ve got you covered
the wonders of oZ
White-sand beaches, outback adventures, rainforests, koala and kangaroo hotspots, and that opera house… discover all this and a lot more with our essential guide to Australia golden prague
After years with a reputation as Europe’s leading budget destination, the Czech capital has emerged as a surprising home of luxury and culture VitaMin sea
The Philippines offers far-flung destinations that can only be reached with a mask and fins. Whether you are a family
8 World Traveller
WeekenDS
60
64
a long weeKend in Kuwait city
Kuwait may be one of the smallest Gulf States, but what it lacks in territory it makes up for in history, nature, and culture offerings eVeryone’s heading to...
Al Qattara Arts Centre in Al Ain is playing host to a unique art exhibition
66 68 73 80
faMily getaway
Stalking peacocks, building giant sandcastles and paddling in the surf keep the Bartle family active on their weekend break at JA Palm Tree Court staycations
Enjoy a great break on your doorstep at these luxury hotels reader offers
Seven pages of exclusive deals to get you packing suite dreaMs
Step inside the Al Manhal Suite at The St. Regis Abu Dhabi
4:51 PM The moment she made you float into a fairytale. At Fairmont, we believe in making moments. We believe that every exquisite luxury, every lavish setting, and every unforgettable adventure you have with your loved ones at a Fairmont hotel… is a memory worth cherishing. That’s why we’ve spent more than 100 years perfecting the art of making moments. Are you ready to find yours?
Gateway to your moment in over 20 countries. fairmont.com
A change of scenery KENYA
An undeniably beautiful African country, Kenya offers stirring scenery. It’s the land of the Masai Mara – where immense herds of wildebeest and zebras migrate across the sweeping savannahs with a line of predators in their wake. Once you’ve ticked this wondrous wilderness off your list, venture further to find awe-inspiring sights from snow-capped mountain ranges to palm-fringed beaches. And take every chance you can to meet and learn from the fascinating local people, including the Maasai, the Samburu, the Turkana, Swahili and the Kikuyu tribes.
10 World Traveller
CheCk In A change of scenery
World Traveller 11
Change of scenery CheCk In
A change of scenery BRAZIL
Start your South American journey in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil’s ‘cidade maravilhosa’ – the marvellous city where you can experience the infectious rhythm of Samba, see spectacular natural wonders, and find nothing but breathtaking beaches. We suggest soaking up the summer sun this season on the golden shores in Copacabana or Ipanema, tour the city’s infamous favelas and take the cable car to the top of Sugar Loaf Mountain, which rises straight from the water’s edge around the city at the mouth of Guanabara Bay.
12 World Traveller
CheCk In A change of scenery
World Traveller 13
Change of scenery CheCk In
A change of scenery SRI LANKA
With its diverse landscapes, wildlife, timeless ruins, rich culture and fantastic food, Sri Lanka deserves its top rating on just about every must-visit list. Head to the popular beaches in the south for great surf spots and the chance to see stilt fishermen along the coast between Unawatuna and Weligama. For wild, untouched shores, go east. Or escape the tropical heat and travel inland in search of luminous-green tea plantations, lakes and rainforested peaks.
14 World Traveller
CheCk In A change of scenery
World Traveller 15
Stay Exquisite this Festive Season at Abu Dhabi’s Finest Urban Resort
The St. Regis Abu Dhabi Nation Towers, Corniche, Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates t. +971 2 694 4444 stregisabudhabi.com Š2017 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, St. Regis and their logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates.
Globetrotter
From festive travel ideas on your doorstep to hotel rooms that come with pet goldfish – here’s what hot in travel this month
CHeCK in to… Three of the latest hotels 1. Wild Coast tented lodGe Sri Lanka has topped just about every must-visit list this year. With the launch of this sumptuous safari-style camp there’s even more reason to head to the island nation. Situated along a pristine beach on the fringes of the renowned Yala National Park, the lodge features 28 tented ‘cocoon suites’, which are either beach-facing or clustered around water holes – ideal for game viewing. Keep a look out for wild elephants, sloth bears and elusive leopards. resplendentceylon.com/wildcoastlodge-yala ➤
World Traveller 17
2 BVlGari resort duBai Bulgari Hotels & Resorts is marking the end of 2017 in style with the opening of its newest property (the brand’s fifth edition after Milan, Bali, London and Beijing) on Jumeira Bay – a seahorse shaped island in Dubai. The exquisitely designed 101 rooms and 20 private villas are complemented by a private beach, a sprawling spa, exclusive dining options and the first Bulgari Marina & Yacht Club worldwide. bulgarihotels.com 3 aVani Metropolis residenCes New Zealand’s new AVANI Residences will have you staying in the heart of Auckland – one of the country’s most culturally diverse and foodie-friendly cities. After a day of exploring gourmet markets and meeting local artisans and designers, pop ‘home’ for a nap in your private stylish retreat, enjoy the leisure facilities (we like the sound of the 22-metre heated indoor pool), and then head out for a night on the town. minorhotels.com
Bulgari Resort Dubai
Louvre Abu Dhabi
AvAni Metropolis Residences, Auckland
Bag it Desert delights It’s time to head outdoors and enjoy the Middle East’s warm winter sun with Arabian Adventures’ new collection of curated tours. From visiting remote wadis and canyons to getting first hand insights into conservation efforts and delving into Dubai’s evolving food culture, a range of enticing experiences await. arabian-adventures.com
18 World Traveller
ban.do’s Autumn/Winter 2017 collection caught our eye with its getaway duffle bags. They’re perfect for minibreaks and make good festive gifts for travel enthusiasts. bando.com
CheCk In Globetrotter
roBostaFF Meet a handful of humanoids and ai helpers working in the hotel industry
gooD golDfish! Guests checking into The Westin Mina Seyahi Beach Resort and Marina in Dubai, can now request a goldfish for the duration of their stay. Believed to have a calming influence and help with relaxation, they’re evidently perfect roommates for travellers. westinminaseyahi.com
ManDarin oriental, las Vegas The newest team member to join Mandarin Oriental, Las Vegas is Pepper, a humanoid bot that is primarily based in the hotel’s Sky Lobby. Pepper can discern a guest’s gender, approximate age and mood as well as provide answers to property-specific questions, give directions, tell stories, dance and even pose for a selfie. mandarinoriental.com/las-vegas WeirD hotel, Japan From the scary-looking dinosaur receptionists to a porter that is an automated trolley, the aptly named Weird Hotel in Japan is ‘manned’ almost totally by robots. This concept may seem odd, but business has been so successful since the property opened two years ago, that its owners plan to open 100 more such abodes. h-n-h.jp/en M social hotel, singapore Aura is Southeast Asia’s first front-of-house autonomous service delivery robot. See her at M Social Hotel, Singapore where she delivers items like bottled water, towels and toiletries to guestrooms. Aura can ride in elevators, navigate her way to a guest’s room, let them know that a delivery has arrived and then open her lid for guests when they answer the door. millenniumhotels.com
MerriMent in tHe Middle east
Make the most of the festive season at these superb stays aBu dHaBi From a range of celebratory dinners to surprise gifts, there are a number of reasons to celebrate at any of Anantara's three resorts on Sir Bani Yas island. Whether you stay at desert islands and al Yamm on the coast or at al sahel surrounded by wildlife, you're in for a jolly good time. And children will love Santa's visits as he moves between the three different properties. anantara.com
FuJairaH in addition to events, giveaways and more to celebrate le Méridien al aqah Beach resort’s 15th anniversary this festive season, the hotel is offering a fabulous new Year’s Eve stay. Enjoy the property's spectacular surroundings beneath the dramatic Al Hajar Mountain range, unwind at the spa with pampering treatments and see in the new Year with a special gala dinner on 31 December. lemeridien-alaqah.com
oMan The festive week at six senses Zighy Bay gets underway at its seaside Shua Shack, with a unique family-style Bedouin dining experience under the stars. The hotel’s mountaintop restaurant, Sense on the Edge, is also hosting a gourmet gala dinner featuring specials crafted with flavours from around the world. Younger travellers can try baking or decoration making, too. sixsenses.com/resorts/zighybay
Beirut in December, the Lebanese capital transforms into a magical holiday scene. The Beirut Chants Festival celebrates classic, sacred and ethnic music of the season and new Year’s Eve celebrations sees the city’s historic streets illuminated. A stay at le Gray, Beirut puts you in the heart of the action and the hotel is offering a number of bespoke festive experiences. campbellgrayhotels.com/legray-beirut
World Traveller 19
GOOSEBUMPS GOOSEBUMPS WHEN THERE IS NOWHERE ELSE WHEN YOU’D THERE RATHER BE IS NOWHERE ELSE YOU’D RATHER BE
jumeirah.com | T: +971 4 364 7555 jumeirah.com | T: 800 JUMEIRAH
DUBAI | | DUBAI
ABU DHABI ABU DHABI
||
FRANKFURT FRANKFURT
||
ISTANBUL ISTANBUL
| |
KUWAIT KUWAIT
| | LONDON LONDON |
| MALDIVES MALDIVES|
| |MALLORCA MALLORCA
SHANGHAI | SHANGHAI
CheCk In Globetrotter
MY BEST TRIP
Yakumo Saryō in Tokyo serves an exacting mix of traditional and contemporary fare
Dubai-based foodie, photographer and restaurant guide creator Tala Soubra has a mouth-watering Instagram feed (@ talasoubra) and a website (talasoubra.com) that will make you want to pack your bags and head off on a culinary adventure. Her latest publication, KT001 KON’NICHIWA TOKYO, includes everything you need to know about Japan’s most dynamic city.
Tokyo’s cherry blossom season usually begins in March
There are two factors that pull me towards a destination, beautiful food and beautiful people – both of which reside in Tokyo. It is like no other city that I’ve seen before. It’s a metropolis yet it’s “shh” so very quiet; its locals are polite and delicate while the city is known for its screaming neon lights and its culture is woven in every element of its fabric. My initial five-day stay there stretched first to seven days and then to 15. Each neighborhood in this, the sprawling Japanese capital, has its own character, so a handful of days just won’t allow for enough time to discover everything. During my visit, I savoured sushi, tempura, ramen, soba noodles, yakitori, teas and more. From street food to high-end cuisine, every dish maintained a true Japanese devotion to quality. Each restaurant visit led me onto the next. Locals are so keen to converse and help. Meals ended with discussions with various chefs, owners and fellow diners about where to proceed afterwards. On many occasions, a recommendation just wouldn’t do for their hospitality, reservations were made and hands were held until I reached my next exciting destination.
hI-TEch TRanSlaTIonS Go global and talk local thanks to Travis the Translator – a simple and portable pocket device that allows for instantaneous translation in a conversation. It supports over 80 languages online and 23 offline, with 3G and Wi-Fi connectivity, and has a built-in 12-hour battery. travistranslator.com
World Traveller 21
Globetrotter CheCk In
A life well travelled Each month, a seasoned explorer lays open their travel journal Fashion artist MEGAN HESS, who has illustrated for the likes of Dior Couture, Prada and Tiffany & Co to name a few, is also the author of four bestselling books and holds the title of Global Artist in Residence for the Oetker Masterpiece Hotel Collection. When she’s not working in her studio in Melbourne, Australia you’ll find her sketching stylish scenes around the world. Read more about her travel must-haves, favourite cities and more. What is your ultimate travel indulgence? This may seem ridiculous, but if I’m travelling on my own and if it has been an extremely busy day, I think the best thing is to take a luxurious hot bath, wrap up in a robe and order room service – I couldn’t be happier. If you had asked me 10 years ago, I probably would have said to find the latest hotspot, but now I am so happy to just unwind. Must-have travel accessories? Louis Vuitton luggage – the pieces are resilient and they make travelling more fun. Just before a flight, regardless of which airline I am using, I load a stack of series onto my iPad. I always take a super-soft eye mask that won’t leave any indentations on my face, noise-cancelling earphones, and a giant scarf-wrap that doubles as blanket for the flight. Oh, and I always have a water spritzer for hydration.
Café de Flore
22 World Traveller
Which place has surprised you the most in terms of its fashion scene? Perhaps it was the first time I visited the Middle East, as I didn’t really know what to expect. What I found, and always see now, is such a diverse and interesting mix of fashion. You can’t pin it down to one look. Even though there is huge support for luxury and big brands, many local designers have strong influences, too. You've said New York City gave you your first big break. What do you love about it? Every time I land in the city, my heart races and I am happy to be there. I love the people who are, in general, very forward thinking, enthusiastic and optimistic despite anything they have been through. I have so many favourite places there. I illustrated New York: Through a Fashion Eye to create a different visual journey of this fantastic city and show a different side to it. I included inexpensive options and those that are ridiculously expensive (just for fun) to show that you can have whatever type of experience you want to there. What enchants you about Paris? I love it equally to New York even though it’s so vastly different. Parisians do things so well and I like the way they enjoy life. They appreciate little things such as taking time to sit down and savour exquisite food. Everything in the city is so beautiful to draw. One of my favourite pastimes is to peoplewatch at Café de Flore in St Germain.
Junior Suite at Le Bristol Paris
Of all cities in the world which ones would you still love to illustrate? I think Milan would be fantastic, as would Dubai because of its enormous amount of interesting architecture and mix of cultures. I think Tokyo would be great, too. They way people dress there is mind-blowing; they go to so much effort. Looking at everything there is like being in a giant pinball machine. What are your top three hotels? Fairmont The Palm is where I always stay when I’m visiting Dubai and I like the familiarity of the place. I love to open the doors of my room, look onto the beach and feel the warmth. They also have really good dates and coffee. I’ve probably stayed at Le Bristol Paris more than any other hotel in the world and it feels like home. It’s so typically French and has such a lovely feel to it. There are two resident cats there, and they even have their own suites. My other favourite is Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc in the South of France, which is indescribably beautiful. What travel tips do you have for your hometown of Melbourne? The city has great cultural happenings and amazing exhibitions – a visit to the National Gallery of Victoria is definitely worth it. We are known for our coffee shops and food scene so explore the laneways to find great spots. There’s a really good mix of city and beach life in Melbourne – head to the latter for seafood.
Megan Hess’ latest book, Paris: Through a Fashion Eye is out now. To find out more, visit meganhess.com
CheCk In Globetrotter
Flood River at Wild Wadi Waterpark
3
ways to…
Unleash your inner child at the UAE’s top waterparks Wild Wadi Waterpark, Dubai With names like Jumeirah Sceirah and Tantrum Alley the star rides at this waterpark are not for the faint-hearted. The former, a 120-metre long slide has seen a revamp and is now longer, scarier and twice as thrilling as before. Flood River provides fun for the whole family as everyone waits in anticaption for its unannounced surges of 100,000 litres of water, creating waves over one metre high and sudden river rapids. jumeirah.com
Yas Waterworld, Abu Dhabi If you've not yet visited this, the largest waterpark in the country, then add it to your list. With over 40 attractions, a number of which are unique to the region, you’re bound to have exhilarating time. The Bandit Bomber will keep you hanging on the Middle East’s longest suspended rollercoaster for 550 metres and try Jebel Drop, a free-fall speed slide with a monstrous descent, if you dare. yaswaterworld.com
Wadi Adventure, Al Ain While most visitors should be able to navigate their way along this park’s 1.7 kilometre network of rapids by kayak, perhaps only strong swimmers should give its surf pool a go. The 3.3 metre man-made surf wave is the world’s largest, and thanks to remarkable technology, waves can be released between 90 seconds and two minutes apart. wadiadventure.ae World Traveller 23
Dining CheCk In
Chef’s top tables
Join us on an expert-led culinary tour around the world as a chef in the know gives us his picks for eating out on a global scale Celebrity CHEF MASAHARU MORIMOTO is one of the key players in facilitating the widespread admiration and enjoyment of Japanese food in Western culture. He was the original chef at Nobu in New York in 1994, and opened his first eponymous restaurant in Philadelphia in 2001. Today, his roster of restaurants are located in Mexico City, Bangkok, Las Vegas, Maui, and more. Look out for his new concept at Dubai’s Renaissance Downtown Hotel, which opens this month.
An assortment of sushi at Morimoto Napa
hIRoshIMa, JapaN Chinchikurin Hiroshima, my hometown, is famous for its okonomiyaki (savoury Japanese pancakes) and there are countless eateries that pay homage to this fabulous dish. I think Chinchikurin (chinchikurin.com) is one of the best. They’ve recently made their way to the US and I hope that they will continue to spread this ‘taste of home’ widely abroad. WHAT I RECOMMEND: The okonomiyaki is a must-try, but they also have really good spicy dipping noodles.
toKYo, JapaN Ginza Kyubey In my opinion, this is one of the best sushi restaurants in Japan – it’s outstandingly good. While it’s a prestigious and traditional restaurant, you do not feel compelled to follow customary sushi eating rules. And the ambience is very warm and welcoming. If you ever stay in Tokyo, go to Ginza and try this place, just make sure you make a reservation. WHAT I RECOMMEND: Everything. 24 World Traveller
Napa, Us Morimoto Napa
beIJING, ChINa Quanjude
Napa is known for its great food and grape and it attracts foodies from far and near. I feel flattered that my restaurant and food is well received there, and it’s one of my favourite places, too. When I created the menu for Morimoto Napa (morimotonapa. com), I wasn’t necessarily trying to match it with grape varietals, I just did what I always do, which is to try to capture the characteristics, the culture, and the history of the location and absorb them into my dishes. And as a result, they just happen to go great with grape. Napa is a special place for me. It keeps giving me new inspirations. WHAT I RECOMMEND: Tuna Pizza is one of my signature dishes that you can find at any Morimoto outlet in the world. And this approachable dish is suitable for everyone, even those who have never tried raw fish before.
This well-established restaurant has over 150 years of history and it’s famous for Peking duck. The birds are roasted in a large hearth by nationally qualified artisans. Overall, the price point is very reasonable and you can make a hearty meal of this real traditional delicacy. This dish features on the menu at one of my own locations and we are continually trying to make our version match that of Quanjude. WHAT I RECOMMEND: Can you guess?
ON MY BUCKET LIST I would love to try Kamimura (kamimura-niseko.com) in the ski town of Niseko in northern Hokkaido, Japan. It offers contemporary French cuisine inspired by the region’s natural beauty and local ingredients.
CheCk In Shop my city
SHOP NEW YORK CITY Fashion designer Elizabeth Kennedy on where to shop in the Big Apple Elizabeth Kennedy (elizabethkennedy. com) has taken the fashion world by storm. Having worked with Donna Karan Atelier, Isaac Mizrahi Couture and J. Mendel, she started her own label in 2012 and is now a regular at New York Fashion Week. You can find her garments at Harvey Nichols – Dubai The shopping scene in New York City inspires me because… it’s so diverse. You can find anything from luxury brands to vintage and smaller handmade items. There are several neighbourhoods that are good for shopping (including SoHo), but I prefer the sophistication and tranquility of the Upper East Side rather than the bustle of downtown.
Clockwise from this image: The New York City skyline; Bergdorf Goodman; inside Stand Book Store; an Edie Parker bag
OLD FAVOURITES
Bergdorf Goodman (bergdorfgoodman. com) is the most luxurious department store. I also love ABC Home (abchome. com) for interiors and Dover Street Market New York (newyork. doverstreetmarket.com) is such a fun outing because they carry brands and styles that you can't find in other stores. I shop for my husband at Barneys Downtown (barneys. com) or Odin New York (odinnewyork.com).
HIDDEN GEM
The Apartment by The Line (theline.com) is a gorgeous space in SoHo that is staged like an apartment with a kitchen area, living room, wardrobe, bedroom – and everything is for sale. The way the products are styled is so chic. I never leave without buying something. Even if it’s a small knickknack or candle, when you are there, it really puts you in the mood to shop. It’s also such a beautifully curated selection. I always appreciate a nice edit rather than sifting through racks and racks, which can be overwhelming.
NEW ABOUT TOWN
I think Edie Parker evening bags are great and I am obsessed with GRLFRND jeans – you can buy both brands at Barneys. I also love Protagonist and Khaite for minimalist daywear, which both sell at The Line.
PRETTY THINGS
Nicholas Kirkwood (nicholaskirkwood. com) shoes are great and he has a cool store in the Meatpacking
District. I usually buy bags directly from the Céline (celine.com) store and Barneys. Dover Street Market has the best jewellery selection.
CULTURE VULTURE
I love Strand Book Store (strandbooks. com). It’s in the village near where I went to school and they have the best selection of art books upstairs. My husband is an artist, so most of our art is the work of friends or things we see when we are at the galleries in Chelsea. World Traveller 27
Globetrotter CheCk In
InsIde scoop Expert advice for happy holidays
Rob Arrow, head of product at dnata has more than a decade’s experience in the luxury travel industry and loves nothing more than talking hotels and discovering destinations
Q A
My friends and I are looking to book a lastminute trip to see in the New Year. Where's relatively close to the UAE?
New Year’s Eve festivities in Bangkok, Thailand
28 World Traveller
Reindeer-sleigh rides in snowy forests are a great way of experiencing the Arctic wilderness in Rovaniemi, Finland
Q A
I am travelling with my family this festive season, what facilities does Dubai International Airport have for young children?
While the whole airport offers a number of facilities, I would say Terminal 3 has the best set-up for families. There’s a variety of food and beverage outlets, good shopping, strollers are available everywhere (one less thing to worry about) and there’s a ‘Kids Zone’ located between Gate B7 and B8 which is a great place for younger travellers to burn off some energy before embarking on a longhaul flight. DXB also has its own hotel and there you’ll find the G-Force Health Club with a swimming pool, Jacuzzi, sauna and steam room. If you need to keep the kids entertained for a few hours during a stopover, why not pop in for a pool party? Making use of what is around you can help turn your time at the airport into an educational excursion or even an adventure.
Where to go for the ultimate festive experience Rovaniemi is the capital of Lapland, in northern Finland – but more importantly, it’s the official hometown of Santa Claus. Head here for a fairytale festive holiday. You’ll find a roster of destination-based activities including reindeer-sleigh rides and farm visits, sledging with huskies, horse riding adventures through the Arctic and the chance to meet Santa himself. And you can even stay at the Arctic SnowHotel or in one of the glass igloos. If you can’t venture this far, London or New York both put on a show during the festive season. From ice-rinks to window displays, decorative streetlights and hot chestnuts being sold on street corners, you can’t escape the cheer in both these vibrant cities.
Photo of reindeer ©Visit Rovaniemi (Rovaniemi Tourism & Marketing Ltd.)
My first suggestion would be Bangkok, Thailand. It’s quick to get to, cost-effective and has a great party scene. Watch the fireworks over the city from any of the rooftop restaurants and bars. Istanbul is one of those places that many of us who live in the Middle East may have visited a few times, so it’s easy to settle in there. Celebrate in the old city, or check out the newer districts with their happening bars and trendy hotels. Visiting a well-rehearsed destination can make New Year’s Eve effortless, allowing you to have more fun. And as Istanbul straddles two continents, you could start your festivities in Europe and finish in Asia. Baku in Azerbaijan also makes for a good last minute trip. It has a host of hotels, excellent dining options and is home to Nizami Street – one of the most expensive shopping streets in the world. If you’re looking for a wintery feel, this is the place.
on our radar Grab your passport and head to these trending destinations… Zagreb, croatia During the summer everybody escapes to the coast of Croatia, but in the winter, the city of Zagreb really comes into its own. It’s a great destination that offers culture, arts, music, architecture, gastronomy and good festive markets. And with direct flights from Dubai available, it is so easily accessible.
The Spa at Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay
Q A
2017 has been a tough year and I am in serious need of a relaxing break. What are your suggestions for wellbeing retreats in the Middle East?
If you want to immerse yourself in nature and are in search of a more ‘alternative’ experience, then head to Alila Jabal Akhdar in Oman’s Al Hajar Mountain range. The property is set at 2000m above sea level, and it’s spectacularly perched on the edge of a ravine. Given the brand’s Indian roots, you’ll find many Asian-inspired treatments on the spa menu, such as Ayurvedic therapies. Practise yoga outdoors in the fresh air and you’ll literally feel on top of the world. For a more indulgent option, check out Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay. It has the second biggest spa and wellness facility of any Four Seasons’ property in the world. There’s an indoor and outdoor swimming pool, steam room, whirlpool and salt inhalation room and the menu boasts a huge array of rituals and treatments. The Chedi Muscat in Oman is also a great place to go for a wellbeing experience. There’s a great natural energy and vibe about the place and even if you only spend two or three nights, you will be sure to relax.
For inspiration for your next trip, step into a dnata travel centre, call +971 800 dnata, or visit dnatatravel.com
melbourne, australia Having woken up from its winter, this city is now celebrating glorious summer weather. It's known for having an amazing food scene, a great cultural vibe and offers loads of outdoor activities in and around the urban centre. siem reap, cambodia If you’re looking for a new cultural destination in Asia, head to this hotspot in December before the tourist hoards set in. As the gateway for the famed temples of Angkor, it also has great hotels, sumptuous spas, superb shopping and a dynamic foodie scene.
folloW the arroW
Photos courtesy of Rob Arrow
Rob takes us behind the scenes, with a selection of his favourite finds from his recent travels...
dublin Sprawling St Stephen’s Green Park in the heart of the city is an Irish heritage site that is not to be missed.
bangkok The Peninsula is a riverside hotel that offers great views of Bangkok’s skyline from its elegant rooms.
edinburgh Perched atop Castle Rock, Edinburgh Castle dominates the skyline of Scotland’s most dynamic city World Traveller 29
The locals’ guide to…
Cape Town There’s nowhere quite like South Africa’s ‘Mother City’, which sits beneath the magnificent backdrop of Table Mountain National Park. Its breathtaking landscapes, diverse foodie scene and local design community will draw you in and definitely keep you coming back for more
beautiful coastal roads in the world. 2. The top of Lion’s Head where you get a 360-degree view of the Atlantic ocean on the one side and the city on the other side. 3. Llandudno beach with its clear turquoise waters, where you can almost always find surfers catching some waves. 4. Cape Point with its stunning cliffs, ship wrecks and interesting history. 5. Bo-Kaap with its colourful houses makes for stunning photos. Besides Table Mountain – what’s a must-see attraction? Go and visit the African penguins at Boulders Beach in Simons Town. You will definitely leave with a smile on your face and a camera full of photos.
Carlinn Meyer looking onto Lion’s Head
Where is your favourite place? I like to be up in the mountains where I can see the city from above. Whenever you reach the top it really does take your breath away to see the sheer drops leading to the sparkling ocean down below. There are also so many different trails to choose from that you will never get bored.
FOODIE FEASTS Ishay Govender-Ypma is a freelance travel and culture photojournalist, cookbook and guidebook author. Here, she tells us all about the Mother City’s foodie hotspots. ishaygovender.com
OUTDOOR ADVENTURES Carlinn Meyer is a blogger and photographer who has a swoon-worthy Instagram feed. Here, she tells us how to make the most of the outdoors. @campsbaygirl; campsbaygirl.com What makes summering in Cape Town so special? There is a certain energy in the air that I just can’t explain. Warm evenings are best spent watching the sunset from the powdery beaches or going out for cocktails 30 World Traveller
at the happening bars in the city. The nearby bucolic towns of Franschhoek, Paarl and Stellenbosch are great for amazing lunches and you can take a stroll around Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden, watch movies under the stars at open-air cinemas or go for hikes under the moonlight. People love being outside and you can really feel the buzz everywhere you go. What are your top five most picturesque spots in and around the city? 1. The view from Chapman’s Peak Drive, which was named one of the most
What are your go-to restaurants for a laid-back lunch and a fine-dining dinner? For a no-nonsense great value lunch or dinner prepared with in-season ingredients and cosmopolitan flavours, book a table at Black Sheep (blacksheeprestaurant.co.za) in Kloof Street or secure seats at chic The Shortmarket Club (theshortmarketclub. co.za), which falls under the Luke DaleRoberts umbrella, run by the very talented Wesley Randles. For special occasions, it has to be a table reserved three months in advance at The Test Kitchen (thetestkitchen.co.za) in Woodstock or La Colombe (lacolombe.co.za). If I’m with friends who love company and want to
CheCk In The locals’ guide
SHOP THE CITY Alexia Klompje is a ceramicist and stylist who promotes handmade South African design. Find her stoneware pieces at Klomp Ceramics before embarking on a shopping spree to her suggested spots below. klompceramics.com
This image and right: Look out for a number of emerging fashion designers like Hannah Lavery; a piece from Klomp Ceramics
Where do you find creative inspiration in your city? Everywhere. Cape Town is a beautiful and vibrant place and it’s brimming with creativity. I draw inspiration from the nature that surrounds us and the characterful streets. Where are the best areas to shop? The local design scene is exploding and innovative items can be found at markets and concept stores. Head to Bree Street and Kloof Street in the CBD, Woodstock, and the Watershed at the V&A Waterfront (waterfront.co.za) for a good mix of products, food and great fashion.
What are the must-buy souvenirs? Anything made locally that is unique. South Africans have such a creative perspective and create boldly. It’s wonderful.
meet others, Reverie Social Table (reverie. capetown) in Observatory sees guests sitting at a single long table and fed a surprise five-course tasting menu.
thoughtful meals meant for sharing (Haiku in the CBD: bukhara.com/haikubranch) are all the rage. Now, we just need more Vietnamese and Thai restaurants.
How is the local food scene? The complexity and variety of Cape Town’s food scene is comparable to many of the bigger food cities, just on a smaller scale. It’s intense, experimental and fun. You’ll find everything from genuine Neapolitanstyle pizzas to hand-pulled ramen and fine-dining of the highest level. It’s a combination of demand (Cape Town has a reputation to maintain), creativity inspired by incredibly beautiful surroundings and the lifestyle which attracts top chefs and entrepreneurs, that sets the food scene apart from other local cities.
Which food markets do you suggest? If it’s your first visit, the granddaddy of food markets (remember, ours is a ‘new’ market culture), is the Neighbourgoods Market at the Old Biscuit Mill in Woodstock. Arrive by 10am and it’s best to get a ride or an Uber
What's trending food wise? Fresh and easy seems to be the flavour du jour. Bone broth bars (Marrow: marrowbroth.co.za), poke bowls (Hokey Pokey: hokeypoke.co.za),and fancy tapas (Chefs Warehouse at Beau Constantia: beauconstantia.com/eat) as well as
Which emerging designers do you like? AKJP Collective (instagram.com/ akjpcollective) on Kloof Street and Convoy Shop (instagram.com/convoyshop) on Bree Street both house some of our best local up-and-coming fashion, jewellery and accessory designers all under one roof. A few of my faves are Thalia Strates, Pichulik, Hannah Lavery, Steffany Roup, AKJP and Henriette Botha – who we’ve just collaborated with for her latest collection ‘Hommage’. I love Bofred (bofred.co.za) for product and feature furniture design and I think Frans Smit’s art (franssmit. co.za) is incredible, especially his Silence collection. Find him at Eastside Studios in Salt River.
This image and right: Oranjezicht City Farm in the heart of Cape Town; dessert at The Test Kitchen
as parking is close to impossible. The Saturday Oranjezicht City Farm Market at Granger Bay (ozcf.co.za) near the Waterfront is a good introduction to small local farmers and great artisanal food products. What are some of the must-try local dishes? Try all the Cape Malay food you can, from koeksisters – pillow spiced doughnuts soaked in syrup and dusted in desiccated coconut to curries, bredies (stews) and bobotie (a spiced mince dish topped with savoury custard and served with raisinflecked yellow rice). Also, you can’t miss a braai (BBQ), especially a fish braai in the summer. World Traveller 31
Lights, camera, action!
From powerboat races to a music festival, influential forums to a world acclaimed light festival, Sharjah’s calendar is packed with exciting events over the coming months
Sharjah World Championship Week 2017 While much of the world still thinks of very fast cars when they hear ‘Formula 1’, a growing global audience of race fans is looking to the waters of Sharjah on the Arabian Gulf coast where the U.I.M. F1H2O World Championship (13-15 December; f1h2o. com) – the flagship international series of inshore circuit F1 Powerboat Racing – will be hosted. Up to 20 leading drivers will compete in their superfast tunnel-hull catamarans, each fitted with 10,000-horsepower engines capable of blasting across the surface at speeds of 140 miles per hour. The boats may be safer these days – most are now built from state-ofthe art composites – but a real sense of drama prevails. No less thrilling or demanding is the UIM-ABP Aquabike Sharjah Grand Prix (18-20 December; aquabike.net) with male and female riders competing in various high-octane circuit heats. There are also spectacular freestyle rounds where competitors show off their skills – the best in the sport can almost make them their machines fly, and extra points are awarded for moves and tricks performed with no hands.
Sharjah Hospitality Forum As Sharjah continues to set itself apart as a dynamic destination in its own right, this year’s Hospitality Forum (4 December; sharjahmydestination.ae) invites leading tourism experts to help outline the emirate’s bright future while discussing the theme of ‘Continuous Innovation’. Speakers will include travel journalist and ‘thought leader’ Doug Lansky and Dr Abdelkader Daghfous, a top academic in the areas of innovation and supply chain management. 32 World Traveller
Powerboat racing in front of the Butterfly House on Sharjah’s Al Noor Island
Chico and the Gypsies perfomed at the 2017 Sharjah World Music Festival
Promotion
The Sharjah Light Festival sees the city sparkle and shine
Sharjah World Music Festival
A roster of top Arabic and Western musicians will take to the stage during the Sharjah World Music Festival in 2018
See drivers compete in their superfast machines at the U.I.M. F1H2O World Championship in Sharjah
The fifth annual Sharjah World Music Festival (January dates TBC; sharjahworldmusicfestival.com) will build on the massive success of previous years, as the emirate prepares to welcome a new line-up of top Arabic and Western musicians to play at venues like the Al Majaz Waterfront and Amphitheatre. The spectacular 2017 event featured star performances from the likes of accordionist Daniel Mille, Chico And The Gypsies, and Reham Abdul Hakim with The Cairo Opera House Orchestra. An equally exciting line-up for 2018 is to be expected. Across more than a week of live shows, music styles range from jazz, soul and contemporary pop to Oud dialogues, Indian sitar and the dynamic piano competition – first presented last year at the Furat Qaddouri Music Center.
Sharjah Light Festival (SLF) Now in its eighth year, the SLF (February dates TBC; sharjahlightfestival.ae) literally illuminates the emirate’s authentic Islamic architecture, drawing visitors to see spectacular shows at dramatic landmarks like the Cultural Palace, Dibba Mosque and Kalba University. Each display has been carefully tailored to its specific location, with local and international artists using cuttingedge 3D technology to synchronise colours and images in dazzling and inspiring light displays.
To find out more, visit sharjahmydestination.ae World Traveller 33
Promotion
ReTREAT
Relax and rewind at Desert Palm Dubai
L
ocated on a sprawling 160-acre estate, Desert Palm Dubai is an ideal escape from the city – yet it is only a 20-minute drive away from the urban hub. Offering a luxury hotel with a variety of top-notch dining outlets and a heavenly onsite spa, the property also includes a riding school and championship polo fields. Elegant equine is very much the theme at this haven, which enhances the resort’s unique offering. Guests have the choice of 38 spacious rooms, suites and villas and they offer sweeping views of the manicured surrounds, which are sure to impress. Highlights include the one-bedroomed Pool Villas that are great for those on a romantic retreat. They feature plenty of living and dining spaces, which spill outside, a sunken bedroom and a skylight bathroom with indoor and outdoor rainfall showers and cocoon sofas. Pool Residences are ideal for families or small groups, with their huge fitted kitchens (including a drinks fridge), private gardens and courtyards – great for al fresco meals whipped up by a private chef. Villa Layali is the spectacular three-bedroom presidential villa, which is the ultimate serene sanctuary. It boats a huge swimming pool and a number of terraces overlooking the fields. When it comes to food and beverage options, you’ll be spoilt for choice. From basserie-style classics at Epicure (the spread of artisan cheeses and home smoked cuts will tantalise all taste buds) to the main restaurant Rare, which specialises in steak and a host of destination dining experiences, discerning foodies will definitely find their culinary fix. A Jewel Afternoon Tea will see you savouring cucumber sandwiches while watching a polo match unfold and The Polo Bar is where to go for sundowners. For those looking to speed up their ‘switching-off’ process, the LIME spa offers an assortment of rituals and remedies that will rejuvenate the soul. The extensive menu features everything from firming facials to aromatherapy baths and both Eminence Organic Skin Care products from Hungary and those from Irish brand VOYA are used. Whether it’s a Spa Getaway for two or a pampering Girl’s Day or even just some time for yourself, you’ll emerge from this aromatic spot feeling, calmer and full of bliss. To find out more, visit desertpalm.ae
34 World Traveller
A couples’ treatment room at LIME spa
Polo Suite Bedroom
Desert Palm Dubai's infinity swimming pool
World Traveller 35
The wonders of Oz White-sand beaches, outback adventures, rainforests, koala and kangaroo hotspots, and that opera house… discover all this and a lot more with our essential guide to Australia
36 World Traveller
You want to... see the opera house and bridge Go to: Sydney (duh) Oz’s biggest city is full of iconic sights. But with a little know-how, you can squeeze the classics into 48 hours DAY ONE
7am Yes, it’s early, but stick with us – this is Sydney Opera House o’clock. Rather than cooing at the auditoriums on the bog-standard tour later in the day, take the early morning VIP backstage option (sydneyoperahouse.com/whatson). It’s a warts-and-all look at how everything works, from the props and sets to the orchestra pit and surprisingly spartan star dressing rooms. Also thrown in: a cooked brekkie in the green room. 10am Strutting cockatoos rule the roost in the manicured Royal Botanic Garden, where most visitors simply box-tick
destinations australia
with a quick stroll. Dig deeper with an Aboriginal Heritage tour (rbgsyd.nsw.gov. au) a guided 90-minute mooch around the fantastical flora, exploring millenniaold secret cures and even tasting some bush tucker. Don’t worry, no beetles. Noon Think Australia doesn’t do history? Wait ’til you see the handsome old buildings in the waterside Rocks district. The Rocks Discovery Museum (therocks.com) covers history ancient, colonial and modern, while the 200-step slog up to Pylon Lookout (pylonlookout. com.au;) gives spectacular harbour views. Or shell out big bucks on the BridgeClimb Sydney (pictured; bridgeclimb.com). 6pm Harbour views generally mean killer menu prices. But on the Glenmore Hotel’s rooftop (theglenmore. com.au), you get superior pub grub such as Japanese-influenced tuna tataki and wagyu beef burger – plus the Opera House in plain sight. 8pm Unwind like a Sydneysider at
the Lord Nelson (lordnelsonbrewery. com), a 19th-century watering hole just moments from the Harbour Bridge.
DAY TWO
8.30am Harbour cruises are ten a penny, but the best way to explore the nooks and crannies is by kayak. Join Sydney Harbour Kayaks (sydneyharbourkayaks. com.au) on a four-hour paddling tour to little-known cove beaches, creeks and Garigal National Park beauty spots. 12.30pm Tummy rumbling? Luckily the tour finishes next to Afous (afous.com. au), a waterside Spanish/Moroccan joint that even most Sydneysiders don’t know about. Fuel up on Moroccan meatballs. 1.30pm Sydney’s best hike is the 10km Spit Bridge to Manly walk (manly.nsw.gov.au/attractions). You’ll pass dainty waterfalls, breeze-blown harbour clifftops and Aboriginal rock engravings, before finishing at beachy seaside suburb Manly. The half-hour
ferry ride back to Circular Quay is the bargain alternative to a harbour cruise. 7pm You’ve been inside – now’s the time to walk round the back of the Opera House for a lesser-seen look at the rooftop ‘sails’. The light’s just right as you carry on to tree-lined Mrs Macquarie’s Point jutting over the harbour to snap that perfect shot of the sun setting over the water behind the bridge and Opera House. 8.30pm This city invented panAsian fusion. Get your fill at China Doll (chinadoll.com.au), on schmoozy, well-to-do Wooloomoolloo Wharf. The wagyu beef shin Penang curry is the creamy-spicy star. Where to stay: The Russell Hotel is a quirky, maze-like, turreted joint in the Rocks that feels like a traditional B&B given a swanky modern makeover (therussell. com.au). Sydney’s Four Seasons doesn’t look like much from the outside, but many rooms have views of the Opera House.
World Traveller 37
You want to... watch the sun setting over that rock Go to: Uluru The Uluru sunset is justly famous, painting the rock a blazing red. But cloudy skies often make for an anti-climactic finish, so stay for at least two nights. If you do see the glow on day one, spend the next evening at the sunrise viewing area. Go in September, when it’s not yet too hot to be out in the daytime and the desert is a blaze of purple wildflowers. Fill your days walking or cycling (climbing the rock is a no-no), or visit the rock domes at Kata Tjuta (your ark pass covers both sites; parksaustralia.gov.au/uluru). If you’re in the mood to splash out, stay at Longitude 131° – you can see the rock from your bed, but the real luxury is the expert guiding (longitude 131.com.au).
You want to... cuddle koalas Go to: Brisbane Eagle-eyed travellers might spot koalas in the wild, perched in gum trees in Victoria, eastern Queensland and New South Wales. But if you want a close-up, it’s best to visit a koala sanctuary. At the world’s largest, Lone Pine, on Brisbane’s outskirts, you can even hold one (koala.net). It’s done very ethically: there are 130 koalas here, so each is only ever held rarely, and briefly, and proceeds go towards their conservation. Don’t wear your best shirt: they’ve been known to mess on visitors. 38 World Traveller
You want to... helicopter over otherworldly scenery In landscapes this vast, you need to get high to truly appreciate the epic beauty ● The desert one: Bungle Bungles, East Kimberley, WA There’s nowhere like the Bungle Bungles, aka Purnululu National Park, a landscape of stripey orange-and-black domes that march in groups like a beehive army across the arid desert of the Kimberley. The only way to grasp their scale is on a scenic flight. HeliSpirit (helispirit.com.au) has the best, taking off from inside the park, giving you more time above the domes. The 18-minute flight takes you along Piccaninny Gorge, an ash-grey riverbed sculpted by something rare in these parts – water. ● The dazzling one: Hutt Lagoon, Yallabatharra, WA No, you’re not dreaming: the lake you’re flying over really is pink. Divided from the Indian Ocean by a narrow isthmus, Hutt Lagoon is a 14km-long pool of sugary pink surrounded by a crust of sparkling white — that’s the sea salt seeping in. Geraldton Air Charter will fly you over this bizarre body of water from Geraldton, spending about eight minutes circling above it (geraldtonaircharter.com.au). ● The romantic one: Heart Reef, near Hamilton Island, QLD That heart-shaped coral atoll you’ve seen on greetings cards really does exist. And yes, it sees proposals on a near-daily basis, but that doesn’t make flying above it any less romantic. Fly out by helicopter to the Great Barrier Reef, where coral stretches to the horizon and Heart Reef (pictured) hoves into view for the perfect photo (hamiltonisland.com.au). ● The rocky one: Twelve Apostles, Shipwreck Coast, VIC At ground level, you can only see a few of the famous golden rock stacks that fringe Victoria’s limestone coast. Get the bigger picture from the air: from above, the mainland looks like the jagged edges of a puzzle, the stacks little pieces broken away. A 15-minute flight takes you over the Apostles and the platform-like formation of London Bridge (12apostleshelicopters.com.au).
destinations australia
You want to... take in a bit of Australia’s cool side Go to: Melbourne – Australia’s ‘second city’ isn’t just hipster central, it’s also the country’s culinary capital DAY ONE
9am Start in the city’s graffiti-laced laneways, home to cool cafés, tiny bars and quirky shops. Get a flavour of the best bits on a walking tour with a Localing guide. They’ll tailor it to your interests and pick up brekkie for you on the way (localing.com.au). 1pm Bar Lourinhã on Little Collins Street may not be new, but it manages to stay in vogue with its bang-on tapas and buzzy Andalucían vibes. Opt for the lunch special (barlourinha.com.au). 3pm Even the museums are ‘now’ in this city. Hit the Australian Centre for the Moving Image, in the modern jumble of architecture that is Federation Square, and take in interactive cinema-based exhibits or listen to free expert talks (acmi.net.au). 7pm Nostalgic ’90s tunes, pink neon lights – Chin Chin restaurant is rockin’ it before you even get to the food, a scrumptious fusion of Aussie, Thai and Vietnamese cuisines (the king salmon in coconut red curry is sublime). It doesn’t take reservations so prepare to wait – it’s worth it (chinchinrestaurant.com.au).
11 pm Down a sleepy street-arty laneway, trendy Bar Americano mixes vintage-style chequered floors and cutting-edge cocktails (baramericano.com).
DAY TWO
8am Wake up with house-roasted coffee and coconut-crusted brioche with pineapple and lime curd at Industry Beans café in Fitzroy – Melbourne’s answer to Shoreditch. It’s an easy walk from the eastern side of the CBD (industrybeans.com). 9.30am Melburnians love their coffee. Join a two-hour workshop at Proud Mary roasters in Collingwood to learn how to brew your cuppa to exacting Antipodean standards (proudmarycoffee.com.au). 1pm Messy burgers in a graffiti-covered train carriage on a rooftop: Easey’s isn’t your regular burger joint, but it might just be the funkiest in Australia (easeys.com.au). 3pm Peruse the design boutiques that line Gertrude and Smith Streets in Fitzroy, taking in the shabby-chic, historic terraced buildings. If it’s a Saturday or Sunday, hit Rose Street’s Artists’ Market for quirky
prints, handmade cards and jewellery (rosestmarket.com.au). 7pm If you eat just one fancy dinner in Melbourne, have it at Ides. On the menu: pure, delicious innovation – think salt-andpepper cos lettuce on ice, and Norwegianstyle brown cheese with mango. The house-made butter, blended with peanuts, is insanely good – you can buy a jar of it to take home (idesmelbourne.com.au). Where to stay: The QT Melbourne, on Russell Street, is a sassy base in the heart of the city centre. Rooms mix industrial-chic concrete ceilings with herringbone wood floors and bright pops of colourful fabric, while its leafy rooftop bar is a scene-y hot spot for city workers come office kick-out time – get there early (qthotelsandresorts.com/ Melbourne). Or stay further east, just 10 minutes’ walk from trendy Fitzroy, at funky Ovolo Laneways. Rooms are New York slick, there’s a daily happy hour, and minibars and laundry facilities are free (ovolohotels.com).
Words: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/ News Syndication. Images courtesy of Josie Withers/Visit Victoria; BridgeClimb Sydney
Clockwise from this image: QT Melbourne; culinary delights at Chin Chin restaurant; Rose Street Market
World Traveller 39
australia destinations
Whitehaven Beach
You want to... laze in the sun on gorgeous beaches You’ll find beaches all over Oz, but some are so good, it’s worth tailoring your trip around them. These eight merit a couple of days each... ● The party one: Surfers Paradise, Gold Coast, QLD This aptly named seaside resort surfs by day and dances by night. Try House of Brews (houseofbrews. com.au) for rooftop beverages. ● The photogenic one: Whitehaven Beach, Whitsunday Island, QLD Whitehaven could have been designed for Instagram: it’s impossible to take a bad photograph of its perfect 7km swirl of white silica sand and turquoise water. Walk 15 minutes up to the lookout for the best shot. ● The crowd-free one: South Mandu, Ningaloo, WA Cape Range National Park’s string of sandy beaches is the departure point for Australia’s best snorkelling, on Ningaloo Reef. South Mandu generally has the sparsest crowds. ● The family-friendly one: Noosa Main Beach, near the Sunshine Coast, QLD This sheltered north-facer has calm surf and easy access to the town’s best restaurants (Noosa is a foodie hot spot). Boardwalk Bistro (boardwalkbistro.com.au) serves local seafood overlooking the beach — the kids needn’t even leave the sands.
You want to... hang out with kangaroos Go to: Kangaroo Island Australia’s iconic ’roos are plentiful in rural areas at dawn and dusk – but you’re frequently afforded only a fleeting glimpse (and often from your car). Not so on South Australia’s Kangaroo Island, named for its plentiful population, and famous for other wildlife, too, including wallabies, sea lions, fur seals and goanna lizards. See them on a tour (exceptionalkangarooisland.com) featuring joeys over a BBQ fish lunch, with island-made grape. Or stay at the swanky Southern Ocean Lodge – come sunset, you’ll be sipping bubbly and nibbling canapés in a field full of tame, grazing kangaroos (southernoceanlodge.com).
40 World Traveller
● The surf-loving one: Bells Beach, southwest of Melbourne, VIC Synonymous with surfing, Bells is all about catching waves. Come MarchOctober for near-guaranteed surf, or visit in Easter for the Rip Curl Pro tournament to watch the experts. ● The city one: Shelly Beach, Manly, NSW Take the ferry to Manly from Sydney’s Circular Quay (manlyfastferry. com.au) but eschew the main sands for Shelly Beach. Its north-facing strand catches the day’s last rays. ● The eclectic one: Rottnest Island, near Perth, WA This tiny island has 63 beaches and 20 bays, from Fish Hook Bay, known for its distinct curved shape and abundant marine life, to Little Salmon Bay, with its snorkel safari. Hire a bike (rottnestisland.com) and pedal until you find your favourite. ● The easy-going one: Cape Bridgewater, near Portland, VIC White sand stretches for four kilometres bookended by cliffs; kids can take a surf lesson while mum and dad sip tea at the café... Cape Bridgewater feels like a down-to-earth, local Aussie beach. After a bucket-and-spade day, drive up to the surreal ‘petrified forest’ to see its bizarre trunk-like rock formations.
Caption please
World Traveller 41
You want to... get lost in ancient rainforest Go to: the Daintree Rainforest One of the world’s oldest and most spectacular rainforests is an easy addon to a trip to Cairns. Alex Allen swaps city sights for jungle heights in Queensland’s tropical north... “Don’t move,” says my guide, Juan, swivelling his body to follow the murky shape moving in the knee-deep seawater around me. Before I can respond, he plunges the long stick he’s holding into the water like a staff. There’s a splash and a splatter of mud before he reaches down and, grinning, dredges up a crab the size of a cob loaf. ‘That’s how we fetch dinner in the Daintree.’ This is where I’ve come – to the Daintree Rainforest region, which lies like a crumpled swathe of green velvet along the north Queensland coast. The rainforest itself is truly ancient, thought to be the oldest in the world, and full of the primordial flora that once blanketed the entire continent. Fringed by spotless stretches of wild blonde beach, and patched here and there with sugar-cane and fruit farms, it’s a world apart from touristy Cairns, two hours’ drive south, which I’d left yesterday in search of a greener, wetter, more mysterious Australia. Rolling around in a pick-up truck with Juan, a two-kilo mud crab in a cool box between my feet, I’ve already fallen for the easiness of life here. Juan is a Kuku Yalanji Aboriginal, and his family has lived in the Daintree for generations. I arranged a private, full-day tour through his company, Walkabout Adventures (walkaboutadventures.com.au), which gives visitors a glimpse into a slower way of life, more attuned to nature. After the crab-catching at Wonga Beach, we forage for almonds, rescue a tortoise from the side of the road, and sit on a stream bank chewing sugar cane and swapping family histories. By the time Juan drops me off back at my hotel (the treehouse-like Silky Oaks; silkyoakslodge.com.au), dusty and still damp with tortoise pee (‘His way of saying thanks,’ according to Juan), I can feel the wildness of this place growing on me. The next morning I head north, to Cape Tribulation, an eco-tourism hub an hour-and- a-half away in the dark, dripping depths of the rainforest. I’ve booked in for a swing at Jungle Surfing, which runs zip-line tours through the canopy — I’ve been told it’s the best way to see the Daintree (junglesurfing.com.au). But finding the place isn’t easy. First there’s the ferry crossing of the crocodile-infested Daintree River, before my sat-nav gets scrambled as I push ever-deeper, along slick, leaf-covered roads, into the jungle. Eyes peeled now for signposts, I can’t help but follow the one for the Daintree Ice Cream Company (daintreeicecream.com.au), a home-spun operation set among fruit orchards, which produce the ingredients for such exotic ice-cream flavours as nuttytasting wattleseed, chocolatey black sapote and sharp, citrussy soursop. I finally arrive at the Jungle Surfing HQ just in time to be bundled into a minivan with a Kiwi family and be driven up to the zip-wire. After the initial anxiety of flying along a length of rope 20m above the ground wears off, I begin to take in my surroundings. Wispy tendrils of cloud hang low over hillsides felt-thick with trees, trees themselves bearded in ferns, mosses and palms. I’m awestruck by the scale and rampant greenness of this ancient forest. It’s not until I’m on my way back, though, that I discover just how unique this part of the world is. Spotting a hand-painted sign that reads ‘Beach’, I stop to push through a wet curtain of undergrowth, and emerge, sun-blinded, onto a beach of spotless vanilla sand, stretching as far as I can see in either direction. This is the magic of the Daintree – how it unravels, like a pass-the-parcel of surprises, from rural Eden to prehistoric rainforest and deserted tropical beaches, each discovery more otherworldly and wonderful than the last. 42 World Traveller
The Daintree Rainforest is thought to be the oldest in the world
destinations australia
You want to... explore the Red Centre Go to: Alice Springs This little Outback town in the heart of Oz should be on every adventure-seeker’s itinerary. Here are three great activities to get your pulse racing ● The wheely good one: Outback cycling The raw, rocky earth and bushy scrubland of the hills beyond Alice Springs Telegraph Station are a mountain-biker’s dream, with kilometres of trails and plenty of dips, bumps and uphills to test thighs. Outback Cycling (outbackcycling.com) runs three-hour guided tours, including bike and helmet rental. Take an early-morning ride and you’ll spot breakfasting wallabies, maybe even an elusive dingo. The tours are for all levels, but you need to be reasonably fit to take on the beginner route. If in doubt, hire a road bike for snaking along the town’s paths instead. ● The animal one: Pyndan Camel Tracks Camels aren’t native to Australia, but they’ve been a Red Centre fixture ever since they were brought over from Asia in the 1860s to help transport goods across the desert. On an hour-long ride you can get a taste for the kind of journeys early explorers would have experienced. As you pass through a sun-beaten cattle station, there’s just shrub, cows and the MacDonnell Ranges as far as the eye can see. Opt for the sunset tour for cooler temperatures and better photos (cameltracks.com). ● The after-dark one: Alice Springs Desert Park By day, you can visit this fantastic nature park (pictured) to see recreated Outback habitats – desert rivers, sandscapes and woodland – plus local beasts and birds of prey. As most of the wildlife here is nocturnal, it’s even better if you come at night. A 90-minute tour gets you within touching distance of spiny echidnas, Spectacled hare-wallabies and a host of endangered desert species, including tiny mala (which look like mini wallabies) and bilbies, with their rabbitlike ears (alicespringsdesertpark.com.au). World Traveller 43
You want to... discover a lesser-known little city Go to: Adelaide, Perth or Brisbane Look beyond the big-hitters Sydney and Melbourne. These alternatives have urban buzz without the crowds
ThE AcTivE ONE: Brisbane
9am Laid-back and outdoorsy, Brisbane is a city
to get active in. Start with a walk along the city’s skyline on a climb between the metal struts of Story Bridge. Watch the traffic, both road and river, glide beneath you and learn little-known city facts (sbac.net.au). Noon Refuel at Story Bridge Deli (storybridge deli. com.au). Try the spiced barramundi tortilla. 1pm Get out on that water on a kayaking adventure. You’ll paddle under the Story Bridge and past the Botanic Gardens and mangroves. Ask nicely and your instructor might teach you kayak basketball, too (riverlife.com.au).
44 World Traveller
3pm Streets Beach is Australia’s only inner-city, man-made beach, with predictably perfect white sands. The surrounding gardens have an interactive waterpark for kids. 7pm Stick to the river for dinner at Riverbar and Kitchen, where innovative Oz dishes, such as snapper with pickled mussels, or pasta with prawns and chorizo, are served with views of the – now-illuminated – Story Bridge (riverbarand kitchen.com.au). Or splash out on dinner at the superb Urbane, which fuses top-notch Aussie produce with Asian and European flavours (urbanerestaurant.com). Where to stay: The Alex Perry Hotel in Fortitude Valley has minimalist rooms and a rooftop pool. (alexperryhotelandapartments.com.au).
destinations australia
ThE crEATivE ONE: Perth
8am ‘Dullsville’? Not any more. Perth has shaken
Botanic Gardens of South Australia
ThE chArmiNG ONE: Adelaide 8am Start with breakfast at the city’s sprawling
market (adelaidecentralmarket.com.au; times vary so check the website), where traders hawk everything from Levantine breads and aged cheeses to tropical fruit and Chinese dumplings. 10.30am The beautiful Botanic Gardens of South Australia are full of history; learn about the Victorian circuses and exotic local flowers on a free walking tour (botanicgardens.sa.gov.au). Noon Cut down through the pretty University of South Australia campus to wander along North Terrace, where grand old stone buildings house the city’s major museums. Ogle the eclectic collection at the Art Gallery of South Australia (artgallery. sa.gov.au) or the Aboriginal artefacts at the South Australian Museum (samuseum.sa.gov.au). 1.30pm Enjoy a wine-fuelled lunch at Press*, where sharing dishes such as quinoa and feta with spiced chickpeas are complemented by a brilliant South Australian grape selection (pressfoodandwine.com.au). 3pm See Adelaide’s innovative side at the JamFactory, an art studio and shop where you can stock up on handmade pottery or watch glassblowers in action (jamfactory.com.au). From here it’s an easy walk north towards Adelaide Oval, where you’ll find riverside gardens to lose an hour in. Or, if you’re still in the mood for shopping, you can head straight for the pedestrianised strip of Rundle Mall. 7pm For a gourmet feast that’ll knock your socks off, book a table at Orana restaurant. Its Scottish chef produces some of the most exciting food in Oz, with under-used native ingredients in a superb 18-course tasting menu (restaurantorana.com). 11pm End with a nightcap at the Pink Moon Saloon, a tiny cabin-themed bar with creative cocktails (pinkmoonsaloon.com.au).
off its inglorious nickname, reinventing itself with a vibrant bar scene, creative Mod Oz (aka modern Australian) cuisine, and a culture that fuses indigenous and European influences. Start your exploration at Kazoomies with a North Africanmeets-Basque breakfast of falafel waffles or Spanish omelette (nimrodkazoom.com). 9am Tour Fremantle Prison (fremantleprison.com. au), Australia’s most intact convict-built prison. Here colonial and indigenous history collide creatively in Aboriginal prisoner Peter Irwin Cameron’s colourful dot-painted cell. 11.30am Stop for a streetside coffee at Gino’s (ginoscafe.com.au) on Fremantle’s South Terrace, aka Cappuccino Strip, where Italian settlers introduced the city to café culture. 1pm Book ahead for a table on Bib & Tucker’s oceanfront terrace (bibandtucker.net.au), the city’s best Mod Oz restaurant – think seared kangaroo with beach succulents. 3pm Admire some of Oz’s best indigenous art, ancient and modern, at the Art Gallery of Western Australia (artgallery.wa.gov.au). 6.30pm See Perth through local eyes, hitting the coolest bars, grazing as you go, on a tour with Two Feet & a Heartbeat (twofeet.com.au). 10pm Sip Thai cocktails at Long Chim (longchimperth.com) before bed. Where to stay: Como The Treasury is a chic hotel in the revamped Victorian-era State Buildings, surrounded by trendy bars (comohotels.com). Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com Como The Treasury
Where to stay: Base yourself in the thick of the downtown action at the Mayfair Hotel (mayfair hotel.com.au). World Traveller 45
The bridges of Prague at twilight
46 World Traveller
destinations Prague
Golden Prague After years with a reputation as Europe’s leading budget destination, the Czech capital has emerged as a surprising home of luxury and culture Words: Jamie Lafferty
World Traveller 47
Inside the National Gallery. Opposite, clockwise from left: The spa at Mandarin Oriental, Prague; inside Field; Premier Suite at Four Seasons Hotel Prague
T
he drive into Prague’s old town from the Václav Havel international airport feels like a journey through time. I’m met in the present or near future by a driver in a sleek black Mercedes. The car has inbuilt Wi-Fi, seems to drive entirely noiselessly, and has giant, swallowing seats with little cushions on the headrests. Following an early start, it’s hard to stay awake with such comfort, but this is my first time in the city and I want to see what’s out the window in the cold autumnal air. Leaving the modern world, the drive starts through the remnants of the decidedly unlovely Communist era. As it did across Europe, Communism ended here with the fall of the Berlin Wall, but huge tower blocks, resolutely focused on function over form, are a reminder of what is still a pretty recent past. It was the dissolution of the Soviet Bloc and reformation of old nations, as well as
48 World Traveller
the creation of new ones, that gave this part of the world a feeling of being new, even though cities such as Prague were founded as far back as the 6th century. The dramatic political and economic shifts of the 1990s drove prices down, and attracted tourists from across the continent in search of cheap drinks and affordable party weekends. In the last years of the 20th century and the early part of this one, Prague became the de facto capital, not just of the newly formed Czech Republic, but of the budget traveller’s ideal destination. A confession: I wasn’t really aware that much had changed in the intervening years, save for prices steadily rising with global inflation. However, looking out the window of the Mercedes, which had been sent by the Four Seasons Prague to collect me from the airport, I notice that the further into the city we get, the more beautiful the architecture becomes.
The embassy district is filled with grand mansions, scattered along old roads, offering tremendous views across the Prague below. Not far from here, on top of a hill and offering the most commanding vistas of all, the Prague Castle – or some version of it – has stood for over a thousand years. I’m tempted to ask the driver to stop, but the Czech capital is one of Europe’s great walking cities, so I instead make a note to come back at some point during my visit here. I’ve chosen to stay at the Four Seasons because of its enviable location on Prague’s eastern riverbanks. At first it looks like one grand structure from the outside, but it is in fact four: Baroque, neoClassical, neo-Renaissance and modern, carefully married together to make one outstanding luxury abode. Its restaurant, CottoCrudo, is regarded as maybe the finest Italian in the city, and its recently launched seasonal boat
destinations Prague
tours allow guests to explore the city’s beautiful waterways. The largest of these is of course right outside, the mighty Vltava River. To this foreigner’s eyes, it looks as though it could do with an extra vowel, but there aren’t many other criticisms you can make of the colossal aquatic serpent making its way through the centre of the Czech capital. Only a tiny section of its 430km passes through the historic city, but its presence was key to the development of Prague. Today it continues to be an important feature of the city – for the thousands of tourists and locals crossing each day, and for the bevvies of swans casually paddling across its surface. On both sides of the river there’s an abundance of art galleries. Some of these are palatial, ostentatious affairs, the likes of which you’d expect to find in any of Europe’s great capitals. The National Gallery has a collection so large
“I notice that the further into the city we get, the more beautiful the architecture becomes” that it’s split across several sites around the city. Grandest of these is the Kinský Palace, a 250-year-old beauty sitting on the historic Old Town Square. Inside its pink walls is the nation’s best selection of valuable Oriental art, which is interesting in itself but probably doesn’t draw quite the same size of crowds as the astronomical clock – the bombastic chimes of which have the square thronging with tourists every hour. While the famous galleries get a lot of the footfall, I choose to walk down Parizska Street on the way to the river.
Its surrounding neighbourhood is home to some of Prague’s more niche galleries: Croatian artist Gordana Turuk’s spectacular glassworks; the 17-yearold Galerie La Femme featuring pieces ranging from classic landscapes to psychedelic pop art and the Knupp Gallery. Many leading local fashion designers have set up their boutiques in the same area, too. And on Parizska Street I pass prestigious couture and fine jewellery brands such as Louis Vuitton, Cartier, Dior and many more that flank the tree-lined boulevard, which has a similar feel to Paris’ Champs-Élysées. I head back to the western shore of the Vltava, making sure to pass over the iconic Charles Bridge. At over 600 years old, until 1841 it was the only way to cross the river – it should come as no surprise that the bridge is held in such regard that it now has its own museum. When the city is atdestinations its busiest with Prague visitors, crossing the Charles can be slow, World Traveller 49
Prague destinations
Sinis peninsula, Cabras A flavour of Sardinia
which is a bit of a problem for me as I’m running late for an appointment at the Mandarin Oriental hotel's spa. Located in the labyrinthine and seemingly misnamed Malá Strana (Lesser Town), the hotel isn’t especially easy to find for a newcomer making their way on foot. The ancient buildings here seem built on top of each other, straddling crooked roads and climbing up foothills. The hotel itself is built on the site of a 14th-century monastery and its spa is quite unlike any other I’ve ever visited before. As I’m lead into a side-room to begin the treatment, I walk over Plexiglas which guards remnants of the original religious house below. My therapist then points out what used to be the building’s pulpit. By the time I walk back out into the frigid night air, cured like a prize roast, I’m fairly sure Prague is the greatest city in the world. Perhaps that’s the vapours from the essential oils used for my treatment talking, but unfortunately there’s not much time to enjoy the 50 World Traveller
“Field’s menu has apparently been inspired by Czech cuisine, which perhaps explains why so many of the ingredients seem so alien to me” wooziness – I have a dinner reservation that needs to be kept. Back once again on the eastern side of the Vltava, I make my way to Field (fieldrestaurant.cz). The Michelin Guide doesn’t have an edition dedicated to the Czech Republic, but Prague does feature in its Main Cities of Europe guide, in which three of the city’s restaurants have been awarded a star. Field was the most recent of these, having received its cherished etoile in 2016 and retained it this year. Despite an unassuming exterior, inside Field looks like a cross between a modern art gallery and a sort of agricultural museum: the ceiling is painted with neon doodles; from the walls hang enormous pieces of farm equipment. It’s quite the
scene, but none of the showiness would count for much if the food wasn’t first rate. The menu has been inspired by Czech cuisine, which perhaps explains why so many of the ingredients seem so alien to me. Woundwort, modřenín, Horský cheese… Quite which is which remains a mystery through a sensational 10-course degustation menu. But every course is presented with imagination and flair, some with dry ice, some on beds of ferns, another in a miniature chest of drawers. Some may look at this sort of food and think that it’s not traditional enough – that it’s too fancy, but, I’d wager, they simply haven’t been lucky enough to taste it. Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com
destinations Prague
Field’s aged beef, endive, oyster mushroom and celeriac dish. Opposite: CottoCrudo's terrace at Four Seasons Hotel Prague
“”Met excest fuga. Nem quaerchilis evendit es accus molupta essita voles mi, ium as recti ne porro temporro mil earum faciis World Traveller 51
Miniloc Lagoon in El Nido, Palawan. Opposite: Clown Anemonefish or ‘Nemo’
52 World Traveller
destinations the Philippines
Vitamin Sea The Philippines offers far-flung destinations that can only reached with a mask and fins. Whether you are a family looking for an underwater odyssey, a scuba enthusiast intrigued by remote shores or a rookie freediver in search of some guidance – we’ve got you covered Words: Philippa Langrish World Traveller 53
the Philippines destinations
I
t would be a major undertaking to explore all 7,100 islands that make up the Philippines. But it’s worth making a start. Beneath this nation’s rich oceans lies the most exquisite sites and incredible creatures. Here’s a guide to just a few of the top places to visit and the most memorable experiences that will help you embrace the lure of the sea.
Best for: underwater photography
The southern divers’ haven of Anilao is where walls of fan coral hide exclusive enclaves and sunlight dances on sparkling reefs. And The Verde Island Passage – which is easily accessed from this coastal town – is the epicentre of the world’s most biodiverse marine life and home to over 300 species of resilient coral. This sweet spot is regularly listed as hosting the world’s top destinations for macro photography, including Secret Bay, Basura, and The Pier. It is in Anilao where scuba instructor, underwater cinematographer and National Geographic contributor Robert Suntay set up Studio H2O (facebook.com/studioH2O.ph), which offers courses in underwater cinematography and photography. With so much affordable digital technology now on the market, now is the best time to channel your inner David Attenborough and try a lesson or two. Studio H2O requires students to have taken their advanced diver course or have more than 50 dives under their belt. An introductory course lasts for two days and includes four dives, post-dive lectures and feedback sessions. Students can be hosted at a beach house or they can stay at one of the nearby resorts. Getting there: Anilao is located just 123km away (three hours by car) from the capital of Manila.
Best for: freediving
This back-to-basics sport began as a necessity for the Badjao fishermen of Mindanao (the second largest island in the country's archipelago) eager for a lucrative catch. Today, AIDA
54 World Traveller
(L'Association internationale pour le développement de l'apnée), the world’s largest association of freedivers, is based in the Philippines and offers certified courses at four levels. There are no requirements to take the course other than being in good health. Led by Carlo Navaro, the ManuMano group (manumano-diving. com) is also located in Anilao and offers AIDA introductory courses for those curious enough to go beyond the limits of snorkelling. Like any sport, there are risks. However, the course takes students a step at a time with a ‘go slow and steady’ mantra. An introductory freediving course teaches breathing, relaxation and finning techniques to maximise time under the waves. Incredibly, some students have managed to quadruple their breath-holding time after only one day.
Best for: wrecks
Puerto Galera is another diving hub offering a number of shipwrecks, sloping reefs, underwater canyons and soft coral walls. The five top dive sites there are Canyons, Alma Jane, Monkey Beach, Manila Channel and The Boat Yard. The latter is perhaps the most famous site. It’s a muck dive, which begins at a small wreck and takes divers across a sandy bottom to discover sea slugs, frogfish, cuttlefish, mimic octopus and a variety of shrimp. This site is much sought after by macro underwater photographers for its array of cute rare critters. Sightseeing under the ocean is to be taken at a gentle pace. The oceanic architecture of Puerto Galera’s wrecks, such as Alma Jane, is where the best eye-candy is to be found. Divers are invited to swim in and out of cargo openings to catch a glimpse of frog fish on the upper decks, bat fish below the hold and snapper circling the stern. Getting there: Puerto Galera is about an hour’s boat ride away from the fishing port of Batangas, which is a short drive from Anilao. The twisty road that connects these towns is lined with beach houses and dive resorts from five-star luxury to rustic retreats.
destinations Usa
“With so much affordable digital technology now on market is also the best “Home tothe great coffee,this it was on timeoftosome channel your inner the doorstep wonderfully wild David Attenborough” America, the Pacific Northwest"
See whale sharks feeding on krill off the coast of Bohol or Oslob. Opposite: A Pygmy seahorse; Alma Jane wreck
World Traveller 55
the Philippines destinations
Best for: budding marine biologists
For a family-centric underwater odyssey, stay at Atmosphere Resort in Dumaguete on Negros Island in the Visayas. ‘Kids Cove’ activities are offered for younger guests and they can enrol in half-day creative workshops while parents head out on the dive boat. At the end of the day the children will be brimming with pride, showing off their 3D turtles and numerous paintings created while parents explored the depths of Apo Island. The resort also offers unique two-hour marine biology sessions with Daniel, the resident marine biologist. Everyone instantly warms to his surfer charm, laid-back ease and encyclopaedic knowledge of the world according to Nemo. And there are marine talks for adults to learn about the habits and habitats of creatures seen during the daily dives. Relaxing in the balmy evening air, with a cocktail in hand and sharing salty sea stories rounds off the perfect family adventure. Getting there: Flights from Manila’s Ninoy Aquino International Airport to Dumaguete’s Sibulan Airport take just over an hour.
Best for: dolphins and turtles
Practise your underwater photography skills around the sites of Balicasag Island. Take an early morning bangka boat excursion with Pamilacan Tours & Transport Services from Alona Beach on Bohol Island to watch the pods of dolphins make their morning rituals. Once the kids have had their fill of Flipper head to Black Forest for a chance to capture oodles of turtles munching on sea grass. Tropical Divers (tropicaldivers-alona.com) is a trusted dive centre located beside the cliff-top resort, Amorita on Panglao Island – which is connected to the main island of Bohol by a bridge. Add to your repertoire of larger marine life images by scheduling a trip with them to Oslob where graceful whale sharks feed on krill. Getting there: Fly to Bohol's Tagbilaran Airport from either Manila or the neighbouring island of Cebu.
As impossible as it is to visit all the islands in the Philippines, it’s as tricky to pick a best one. However, Club Paradise Palawan on Dimaquiat Island, Coron regularly tops the list. The island’s house reef is an ideal spot for freediving and these protected waters are most famously home to the elusive dugong. With barely a current, strong swimmers can circumvent the island, while children accompanied by their parents are invited on guided snorkelling tours, where the keen eyed guides know where to sniff out resident turtles and manta rays. Getting there: Book a flight from Manila to Busuanga Airport. Then it’s a 20-minute drive to Decalachao followed by a 30-45 minute boat ride to Club Paradise.
Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com 56 World Traveller
Images courtesy of Matt Watts
Best for: snorkelling
destinations Phililppines
See turtles off the coast of Balicasag Island, Bohol. Opposite: The Ace of Spades limestone rock formation on Miniloc Island, Palawan; a Harlequin crab; the quieter end of Alona Beach, Bohol
“Once the kids have had their fill of Flipper head to Black Forest for a chance to capture oodles of turtles munching on sea grass� World Traveller 57
LOOKING FOR SOME THRILLS ON THE RUNS?
EARLY BOOKING OFFER TREAT YOUR LOVED ONES TO THE PERFECT SNOWY RETREAT WITH OUR ALL-INCLUSIVE HOLIDAY. AND WITH UP TO 15% OFF, THE TIME TO BOOK IS NOW!
15% OFF* BOOK 3 MONTHS BEFORE DEPARTURE
WHAT’S INCLUDED IN OUR SKI HOLIDAY PACKAGE? Ski pass • Ski/snowboard lessons with professional ESF instructors • Premium accommodation • Unlimited drinks and refreshments • Up to 30 sports/activities • Kids clubs from 4 months old1 • International full-board gourmet cuisine • Evening entertainment
Ski destinations
Grand Massif Samoens Morillon 4
KIDS
under 4 stay
FREE
*
St. Moritz Roi Soleil 4
SWISS ALPS
Combining modernity with authenticity, the Resort's traditional architecture has been revamped by our interior designers to ensure you of a wonderfully cosy ambience. From AED 1130 per person per night
At 1,750 metres, St Moritz Roi Soleil Club Med offers a unique experience for your all-inclusive skiing holiday. Enjoy the great Alpine ski slopes and cross-country trails, and the sublime setting of this cosmopolitan ski resort, the historic birthplace of Alpine skiing. From AED 840 per person per night
Val Thorens 4
Cervinia 4
FRANCE
THE ALPS, FRANCE
A new sensation in the heart of the 3 Valleys domain, in a Resort that combines exceptional skiing with the pleasure of après-ski. Hit the pristine slopes while we prepare the fondue. From AED 835 per person per night
ITALY
This family resort provides access to a fascinating Italo-Swiss ski domain with some of the highest pistes in Europe. It will delight guests of all ages. From AED 910 per person per night
Email us at contactcentre@dnata.com • Call +971 4 316 6666
Weekends There’s a loT you can do in jusT a few days
Views over the city of Riga and the Daugava River
Riga, Latvia Thanks to airBaltic’s new Abu Dhabi-Riga route, Latvia’s capital is now just a short flight (aboard a shiny Bombardier CS300) away. The city, like its people, may seem quiet and reserved at first. However delve into its culture and cosmopolitan scene and you’re sure to be enchanted. Get lost in the Old Town’s cobblestone alleys; see flamboyant art nouveau houses along Alberta Street and soar to the top of the tower of St Peter’s Church for sweeping views over Gothic spires and The Daugava River. Pick up traditional black bread and pickles while you people-watch at the Central Market (it’s housed in a series of WW1 Zeppelin hangars), before perusing modern art galleries and mixed-use clusters. Come nightfall, hip bars, Scandi-slick restaurants and underground taverns await. airbaltic.com; liveriga.com World Traveller 59
MINI BREAK
Your guide to: KuWAit CitY Tiny Kuwait may be one of the smallest Gulf States, but what it lacks in territory it makes up for in history, nature, and culture
F
or a place that has been at the heart of Arabia’s history, ancient and modern, the State of Kuwait remains a mystery for many. It may receive fewer visitors each year than its neighbours but for those willing to make the trip to the north west of the Arabian Gulf, there’s plenty to see, do, and learn. Nestled between the comparatively massive Iraq and Saudi Arabia, the country’s 4.3 million population is overwhelmingly gathered in its vibrant capital, Kuwait City. While that may have cultural, culinary and retail options to delay the traveller for days, those willing to explore a little further will find nature reserves, bird-laden islands, and history to rival any destination across the region.
60 World Traveller
Clockwise from this image: The stately entrance of Four Seasons Hotel Kuwait at Burj Alshaya; Kuwait City at sunset; Sadu House; the exterior of the Sheikh Jaber Al-Ahmad Cultural Centre
weekendS kuwait
CULTURE TRIP Regal opera
The Sheikh Jaber Al-Ahmad Cultural Centre, more commonly
An IMAX cinema, live sharks, star gazing… the sensational Kuwait Scientific Center certainly cannot be accused of a lack of diversity with its attractions. tsck.org.kw
called the Kuwait Opera House, still has that new-venue buzz, having only opened towards the end of 2016, when it immediately established itself as the nation’s leading cultural hub. Now in the middle of its winter programme, it hosts a mix of domestic and international artists, with performances contemporary and classical. Check the website for the latest listings. jacc-kw.com
Souks big time
It might not be quite as ancient as, say, Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar but at 200 years old, Kuwait’s Souk Al Mubarakeya is one of the Gulf’s longest running markets. For locals, the souk is a practical, working place but for tourists it represents the chance to visit a fast disappearing element of Middle Eastern culture, to see the hustle and bustle, smell the incense, and perhaps haggle for a few curios along the way.
Total Sadu
Like capital cities across the Gulf, Kuwait is growing fast, with futuristic buildings leaping skywards from the sand on a monthly basis, but for a flavour of the country’s bygone days, head to Sadu House. There you’ll be introduced to the fascinating history of the Bedouin, with a particular focus on crafts and Sadu weaving. The traditions evoked and explained are centuries old, but for some still an important cornerstone of life, too. alsadu.org.kw
#travelgoals Like many of its neighbours, Kuwait has one of the largest mosques in the world. Open to visitors, the Grand Mosque offers tours to anyone looking to learn more about Islam or those who simply want to look closely at its staggering design.
#travelgoals It might sound like a fairground attraction, but the Mirror House is one of Kuwait’s quirkier attractions. The only house in the world entirely covered by mirror mosaic, it’s part art installation, part space to, umm, reflect.
THE ART GALLERIES Gallery Tilal
As a wealthy OPEC nation, Kuwait has attracted more than its fair share of foreign art and artists. While they have plenty of wall space around Kuwait City, Gallery Tilal instead focuses its efforts on born-and-bred local talent. Photography and painting are the primary mediums here, but visiting exhibitions can take almost any form. gallerytilal.com
Boushahri Gallery
If you prefer your art a little more tactile, then the Boushahri Gallery has a big interest in sculpture and ceramics. Ordinarily you’ll find 10 different artists displaying here, on a rolling schedule throughout the year. When sculptor Jawad Boushahri founded this gallery in 1982, he originally intended to feature exclusively local artists, but in recent years his stable has become a lot more international. boushahrigallery.com
Tareq Rajab Museum
A husband and wife team are behind the vast collection on display at the Tareq Rajab Museum. As many as 10,000 items will be exhibited at any one time, which may sound like a lot but only represents a third of the owners’ total. Among this impressive hoard you’ll find ceramics, calligraphy, glass, jewellery and metal work from across the Islamic world. trmkt.com World Traveller 61
MINI BREAK #travelgoals It’s not located in the city centre, but Al Shaheed Park is the largest in the country, boasting botanical gardens, museums, lakes and running tracks. Well worth the short detour.
WHERE TO SHOP Electric Avenues
Each Gulf state knows the name of its largest mall and in Kuwait that honour falls to the might Avenues. The 10-year-old behemoth has over 800 shops inside, offering just about every conceivable retail opportunity. Naturally there’s also a tremendous variety of dining options, too, as well as a colossal cinema and, if it’s all getting a bit much, a couple of spas. the-avenues.com
All around
The 360 Mall is not the largest in the country, but it is perhaps the most luxurious. The focus is resolutely on the high-end but as well as the shopping, look out for the solar garden, with 21,000 plants growing on a vertical wall intended to help improve air quality and act as a natural bio-filter. 360mall.com
Gorgeous gold
LOCAL FLAVOURS Incredible Indian
With so many people originally coming from elsewhere, it’s perhaps no surprise that Kuwait is home to some great international cuisine. It’s particularly strong with Indian food and arguably the best in town is the Crowne Plaza’s superlative Jamawar, which offers traditional and modern dishes from across mother India. ihg.com
Traditional gold souks are cornerstones of Arabian cities and Kuwait is no different in that regard. Traders buy and sell gold, with jewellery styles The shimmering bluefrom across the world represented. Whether green Kuwait Towers are a Arabic, Italian, or Indian, you’ll find something landmark in the city. Soar to to suit – just remember to barter hard. the top of the largest of the three, which rises to a height of 187m and houses a twolevel revolving observation deck, gift shop and café. visit-kuwait.com
Homegrown hotspot
It’s not easy to find many restaurants serving purely authentic Kuwaiti food, but for a good selection alongside other Arabic favourites, Dar Hamad is a stand-out choice. An independent, away from any hotels, it’s a refined, high-end setting for modern Middle Eastern food. There are cheaper Arabic restaurants in town, but none quite so stylish. darhamad.com
Sweet Salt
Inside the beautifully appointed Jumeirah Messilah Beach Hotel & Spa you’ll find the brilliant seafood specialist Salt, one of the best restaurants in town. jumeirah.com 62 World Traveller
weekendS kuwait
Caption xxxxxxxxx
WHERE TO STAY Jumeirah Messilah Beach Hotel & Spa
The Jumeirah brand may have expanded from Dubai across the world in recent years, but it’s also done a good job of finding space throughout the Middle East. And this stunning beach hotel on the south coast offers a variety of accommodation options, an open-air swimming pool, access to Messilah’s shores, a tranquil Talise spa and seven restaurants and lounges. jumeirah.com
JW Marriott Kuwait City Hotel
An ideal stay for the seasoned business traveller, this distinguished luxury hotel is set in the heart of Kuwait City’s commercial and financial district, only 15 minutes away from Kuwait International Airport. Its four restaurants are well-known eateries in the city and its Elite Health Club is a good place to unwind after a busy day. marriott.com
EXPLORE Black gold
It may not, on the surface, seem like the most thrilling subject, but the fate of Kuwait – and the entire Gulf region – would be markedly different if it weren’t for the discovery of oil. To that end, South Travels offers a Black Gold Era tour, chronicling the discovery of the world’s largest oil fields and Kuwait’s access to them. Included is a trip to the Kuwait Oil Display Museum a genuinely fascinating facility located 40km outside of Kuwait City. southtravels.com
Four Seasons Hotel Kuwait at Burj Alshaya
This property may have only opened a few month’s ago, but it has certainly upped the ante in terms of Kuwait’s luxury hotel scene. It’s a designer abode (art and sculpture adorn the walls and there’s a striking spiral staircase in the lobby) that includes a glorious spa and five restaurants and lounges overseen by renowned Italian Executive Chef Sebastiano Spriveri. fourseasons.com/kuwait
Birds are the word
It may be a surprise to learn that despite its occasionally harsh desert environment, over 330 species of bird visit Kuwait throughout the year. The vast majority are migratory, but in the cooler months, they literally flock to the nation’s various islands. Local birder Abdul Rahman Al-Sirhan Alenezi offers tours across his country in the hopes of spotting the most interesting species. birdsofkuwait.com
Words: jamie lafferty
Fabulous Failaka
Despite being just 20km offshore, Failaka Island is unlike anywhere else in the country. There are over 4,000 years of human history to be explored on day trips from Kuwait City, from Mesopotamian to Dilmun to Greek. There are plenty of ruins to see, but Failaka is also home to an amazing display of spring flora, and has positioned itself as Kuwait’s watersports hub.
From far left: Salt restaurant; Kuwait Towers; flamingos in Kuwait Bay; Jumeirah Messilah Beach Hotel & Spa
World Traveller 63
Last-minute WEEKENDs
EvEryonE’s hEading to… Al Qattara Arts Centre In celebration of the UAE’s rich heritage this month, learn more about Emirati traditions through a modern and exquisite art exhibition
ON YOUR DOORSTEP Dubai Shopping Festival
Al Teela by Ayman Zedani
Don’t miss a month of sales, pop-up fashion shows, outdoor markets, fireworks and more Mark your calendars as the extravaganza that is the Dubai Shopping Festival is coming to town. The month-long festival (running from 26 December, 2017 to 27 January, 2018) will once again transform the city into a shopper’s paradise as a collection of its mega malls,
Al Zabout by Ayesha Al Mheiri
Al Miryhana by Maryam Al Suwaidi
markets and attractions offer enticing promotions. Highlights include the
Where: Al Ain When: From now until 7 January, 2017 Why: With the UAE’s 46th National Day and Commemoration Day taking place on 2 December, the country is abuzz with cultural festivities and events. To gain a unique perspective on local culture head to Al Qattara Arts Centre (abudhabievents. ae). Its latest exhibition shows artwork inspired by innovative and historic games designed by Emirati children in the past. These amusements remain an integral aspect of today’s close-knit community. Enjoy: Artworks to look out for include Al Teela by Saudi artist, Ayman Zedani, which refers to a collective game that is popular among boys. Emirati artist, Ayesha Al Mheiri, proposes her version of Al Zubout or ‘whirlpool’ – an amusement which involves spinning and weaving and her fellow national, interior Maryam Al Suwaidi’s piece pays homage to Al Miryhana – one of the oldest games, 64 World Traveller
usually played during the days of Eid by women and girls, which involves movement and singing. While you’re there: It may be smaller than its neighbouring cities, but with its undulating, red sand dunes, nearby UNESCO World Heritage Sites, fascinating museums, renowned zoo and even a waterpark with a wave pool (see page 23), Al Ain has a lot to offer. Where to stay: The Hilton Al Ain was the first international hotel to set up camp in the UAE. Originally built for a royal wedding in 1971 and officially inaugurated by the country’s founding father HH Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, it has since played host to a number of A-list guests. A series of expansion works have taken place over the years, and today it offers contemporary accomodation, lively dining outlets, three swimming pools, tennis and squash courts, massage rooms and more.
competitive 12-Hour Sale taking place on day one; spectacular firework displays every weekend at Global Village, The Beach at JBR and Dubai Creek and the market at Burj Park where you will find great items from emerging designers. visitdubai.com Fireworks over Dubai Creek. Above: Mall of the Emirates
weekends Abu dhabi
Capital flavours Arrive in the UAE with an appetite as Abu Dhabi Food Festival promises to be a gourmet extravaganza
T
hough it is surrounded by dry desert sands, Abu Dhabi has fast become a fertile foodie hub in recent years, with top international chefs opening gourmet kitchens in fivestar hotels across the UAE capital. While the fine-dining culture continues to grow, there’s a hip new edge to the street food scene too, and even burgers by the beach are prepared with a lot more skill these days. The annual Abu Dhabi Food Festival (ADFF) again serves as a showcase for all these developments, running a full calendar of gastronomic special events in December. From the high-rise restaurants and sprawling malls of Abu Dhabi itself to venues in neighbouring Al Ain and Al Dhafra, the festival draws together big names and up-and-coming talents for 17 days of world-class cooking and eating. Highlights this year will include the Truckers Carnival – a daily carnival of food trucks and fun fairstyle games held in front of the Marina Mall parking, with added light and colour from the famous travelling Luminarium installation. The Beach Feast brings the sizzle of Caribbean cuisine to the Middle East, so diners can sample banana plantin from Jamaica, coucou and flying fish from Barbados and pepperpot from Guyana while enjoying sundowners and listening to live music by local reggae bands. The Street Fest, a favourite of previous ADFFs, returns bigger than ever for 2017, combining hot food from trucks, carts and trailers with shows and workshops by street artists and breakdancers, while the Funky Souk presents quirky and creative work by local artisans at a colourful run of craft stalls. A brand new festival feature for this year’s event, the Big Piknik is a fun experience with an Alice In Wonderland feel, where a lavish, healthy outdoor spread is catered by farmers and decorated with gigantic foodstuffs, from ice-cream cones the size of traffic lights to donuts as big as tractor wheels. In the evenings, there’ll be an edgier atmosphere at the Street Food Market, with music and entertainment running late into the night. As movie lovers we’re especially excited about Delicious
Images: Find an array of exciting events and delicious dishes at Abu Dhabi Food Festival 2017
CAPTION
Cinema, a programme of special film screenings paired to some of the most appetizing meals ever put on screen. And like everyone else, we’re hoping to score tickets to the Top Secret Long Table, an exclusive dinner in an undisclosed location, attended by 1,000 guests who will be selected by a panel of 10 experts in the field at very short notice (it’s worth checking for announcements on this, in case you’re one of the chosen: #topsecretfoodie). Online restaurant search and food ordering site Zomato are also organising Zomato Abu Dhabi Restaurant Week, and will be hosting hosting a flavoursome spectrum of talks and tastings, advising food professionals on delivering to diners’ ever higherstandards. Throughout Zomato Abu Dhabi Restaurant Week, the public can enjoy set menus at some of Abu Dhabi’s top eateries for reduced prices. The ADFF also makes space for SIAL, the food and beverage forum with its own busy itinerary of hospitality events, including the hotly contested La Cuisine chefs competition and the prestigious industry Mercury Awards. We hope you’re hungry, because Abu Dhabi is about to deliver all this and more on a platter. Where: Around Abu Dhabi When: 7 – 23 December, 2017 To find out more, visit abudhabifoodfest.ae World Traveller 65
Guests at JA Palm Tree Court have access to three swimming pools
The family getaway “D JA PAlm Tree CourT
Stalking peacocks, building sandcastles and paddling in the surf keep the Bartle family active on their weekend break
The resort has lush gardens and water features aplenty
66 World Traveller
oggy paddle, doggy paddle, doggle paddle,” chanted my three-year-old son, Xander as he thrashed across the swimming pool with his armbands on and legs kicking frantically. In his mind, he was cutting through the water like a dolphin yet, in reality, I was scampering ungracefully to get ahold of his flailing limbs and support his little body from going under. Teaching your children to swim is a rite of passage and when it comes to places to learn, we’re spoilt for choice in Dubai. The infinity pool by the beach at JA Palm Tree Court is certainly an upgrade on the freezing cold public lido where I had practised my front crawl as a youngster, and the sun-soaked setting seemed to give Xander some extra motivation to take his first independent strokes. Even baby Miller was a ball of excitement as we carried him underneath the fountains by the swim-up bar, lifting him high into the air so he could stick his tiny fingers into the stream of water and spray everyone within a two-metre radius. All the fun of splashing about in the swimming pools was just one of our
weekendS Family
favourite activities at this hidden gem of a resort. Tucked away in Jebel Ali, JA Palm Tree Court is ideal for families seeking a touch of luxury, with all the facilities needed to keep guests of all ages busy for hours on end. The all-suite property is set right along the beachfront and is a hive of activity, with a beautiful stretch of white sand and sports facilities galore. We spent an entire morning building sandcastles with the kids and taking it in turns to paddle in the surf. Xander even got a crash course in what it takes to be a real life hero from the friendly lifeguard who escorted him up the viewing tower so he could join him on duty for a short while – a threenager’s dream come true. For my husband and I, spending time outdoors surrounded by nature provided a refreshing change of scenery. The resort is peppered with cascading waterfalls and there are a number of peacocks and geese roaming around, which enthralled the kids. We followed them all the way to the children’s playground where we cooled down with an ice-lolly and admired the view towards the marina. Those with slightly older children will find plenty more to add to the mustdo list. Part of JA Jebel Ali Golf Resort, guests can get active at Watercooled, which offers wakeboarding, kitesurfing, dinghy sailing and kayaking under the guidance of Royal Yachting Association accredited instructors. The multi-donut ride appeared to be especially popular, with thrill-seekers regularly whizzing along the water at high speed. There’s also a nine-hole par 36 championship golf course where you can follow in the footsteps of legends Tiger Woods, Ernie Els and Greg Norman. If you need to brush up on your skills, simply enlist the help of the expert instructors at the Golf Academy. With all this on the doorstep you can pack action and adventure into practically every minute of the day and, having built up quite the appetite, we were looking forward to a sumptuous dinner. Upon going back to our seafacing suite, however, the kids promptly fell asleep on their pull out beds at 6pm, effectively holding us hostage all evening long. Having rarely been to bed before 8:30pm in their short lives, we wondered whether they would wake up for dinner,
Peacocks roam the gardens
me to r take ti and Mille ch Xander nd by the bea bo
but as the time ticked on, we conceded defeat and called upon room service. The little ones slept through until around 6:30am but, having missed dinner, woke up with rumbling tummies so we hotfooted it to La Fontana for a buffet breakfast on the terrace. It was a bit like feeding time at the zoo, with the kids tucking into waffles drizzled with golden syrup, perfectly cooked omelets and warming bowls of porridge before decamping to the beach to make the most of the early morning sun. We had lunch at Captian’s Bar, where we were swayed by the burgers and chips. We didn’t feel too guilty overall,
however, as many of the dishes served across the dining venues feature ingredients plucked from the on-site Bio Garden, which produces a variety of fresh fruit, herbs and vegetables. I didn’t quite have time to visit the spa, or take advantage of the horse and pony riding on offer at the stables, but it’s on my list for next time, and this is definitely a destination I will be returning to in 2018. To find out more, call +971 4 883 5543 or visit jaresortshotels.com World Traveller 67
Staycations WEEKENDS
Promotion
Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates Dubai For a one-of-a-kind experience, check into this renowned hotel
With cosy chalets overlooking Ski Dubai’s famous slope, Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates offers a unique stay for the whole family. In addition to featuring a superb spa and a number of restaurants, the property is also directly connected to the Mall of the Emirates, which means that an array of shops, cafés, cinemas and more are right on your doorstep. SLEEP The hotel offers a variety of guestroom and suite types. For an unforgettable experience book one of the Aspen Ski Chalets, from which you can enjoy views of Ski Dubai’s winter wonderland and gain complimentary access to its powdery slope. Showcasing a sophisticated aesthetic, the chalets are decked out in earthy tones and feature wooden floors and stone faux fireplaces. Guests can enjoy a dedicated butler service at all times, too. 68 World Traveller
Aspen Ski Chalet Living Room
Find Levantine treats at Olea
Afternoon Tea at Aspen by Kempinski
Aspen Ski Chalet King Bedroom
The rustic one-bedroom chalet is an intimate retreat, while the Duplex chalet showcases a separate bedroom, dining room and living rooms, spacious bathroom and a kitchenette, all spread over two floors. Larger families or groups of friends will love the three-bedroom chalet. Set over three floors and accommodating up to six adults, it boasts a spacious living and dining area, separate kitchen, a grand staircase, a powder room, and three marble bathrooms with freestanding bathtubs. DINE The variety of dining outlets at Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates will take you on a foodie adventure across the world. Highlights include Spanish eatery Salero Tapas & Bodega, which is known for its authentic tapas, live entertainment and Fiesta Friday Brunch. Aspen by
Kempinski celebrates European caféstyle food – order the beef cheeks that are slow-cooked in the traditional French style. Olea is the place to go for a gourmet Levantine feast, with delicious dishes created in the live kitchen. RELAX When you’re not whizzing down Ski Dubai’s indoor slope, soak up the warm winter sun at one of the hotel’s two infinity pools. The Mosaic Chill pool bar and terrace is also not to be missed. There’s the onsite K Wellness Health Club that includes a fully equipped fitness centre and tennis court, too. However, leave time for some serious pampering at the renowned Softouch Spa and beauty salon, Maison de Joelle. To find out more, call +971 4 341 0000 or visit kempinski.com
25
With glorious weather upon us, now is the perfect time to visit Dubai and explore its culture. Five-star luxury Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates has never been this enjoyable, with so many rooms and suites to choose from, including our exclusive Aspen Chalets, that blend the best of the sand and snow. Benefit now from 15% off for your winter break with us. This package includes: Stay 3 to 4 nights, enjoy 20% off Stay 5 nights or more, enjoy 25% off Valid until 31st March 2018
+971 4 341 0000 | reservations.malloftheemirates@kempinski.com | kempinski.com/dubai
Staycations WEEKENDS
Promotion
Shangri-La Bar Al Jissah Resort & Spa Experience the best of Oman at this five-star, family friendly abode The swimming pool at Al Bandar
The Splashpad
An Executive Room at Al Waha
Situated beneath a backdrop of the craggy Al Hajar Mountains and offering sensational sea views of the Arabian Gulf, Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah Resort & Spa is a premium destination that’s spread across two hotel wings, Al Waha and Al Bandar. Despite being only 20 minutes from the capital of Muscat and 45 minutes from the airport, the property offers complete seclusion. And with its diverse range of recreational activities that are suitable for all ages, this desert haven is somewhere you won’t want to leave. Al WAhA The larger of the two wings is Al Waha or ‘The Oasis’ – an ideal family getaway. Its architecture resembles that of the traditional Dhofari style from southern Oman and this sprawling complex comprises 262 spacious guestrooms – all with balconies or patios offering great vistas. There is a variety of attractions and activities to keep younger guests amused, including a kids’ club, several swimming pools (toddlers will love 70 World Traveller
their dedicated pool with a rubbercushioned floor), watery play zones and the chance to jump into an inflatable donut and drift along a 500-metre Lazy River that connects with Al Bandar. Thanks to the hotel’s trustworthy babysitting services, parents can take some much-needed time off, such as enjoying a quiet meal or drink at one of the many restaurants or lounges. Al BAndAr As the resort’s second hotel, Al Bandar or ‘The Town’ is perhaps the most lively point. Its design gives a nod to the architecture found in old Muscat, featuring buildings of varying heights with Arabesque arches and ornate balconies. This luxury property’s 198 rooms look out over the sea, the gardens or the 1,400 square metre swimming pool and, like those at Al Waha, have their own balcony or terrace. Al Bandar is the perfect place for a fun-filled active holiday experience where you’ll find recreational pastimes such as watersports, mini-
golf and camel rides available as well as an art gallery and Eco Centre. It’s also home to eight of the resort’s 20 restaurants and bars, including Italian Capri Court (an elegant venue offering innovative cuisine), Piano Lounge (a stylish cocktail bar with an outdoor patio) and Al Tanoor, which is known for its Middle Eastern and Indian culinary spreads. For those in need of pampering, CHI, The Spa is the place to go. Situated within this hotel’s village-like setting, it features some of the largest suites and villas in the country and each has a private bathroom, relaxation area, and a garden court complete with outdoor showers. An assortment of therapies graces the menu. CHI, The Spa practices Chinese wellness philosophies in combination with a true Middle Eastern sensory experience to ensure you de-stress. Try a treatment using natural local ingredients such as frankincense, renowned for its healing, anti-ageing and calming properties. To find out more, call +968 2477 662 or visit shangri-la.com
IRELAND
a different island escape
Ireland is world-renowned for its beauty. To be sure, the greens are greener here, and the lyricism of life is palpable – it captivates you in the form of traditional music, dance and the beloved custom of storytelling. The countryside is a mosaic of rugged, stormpounded coast, steep mountains, velvety green fields, historic sites, and welcoming towns and villages. The locals are as friendly as the stereotype suggests, and Dublin hums with youthful energy and a tradition of cosy inns, literary legacies and fun festivals. Discover all that Ireland has to offer.
Book at dnatatravel.com call 800 DNATA (36282) or speak to us in-store Download our app
| Follow us on
READER OFFERS exclusive deals to get you packing
This month’s raft of great offers includes a stay at the fashionable Palazzo Versace Dubai
World Traveller 73
1
2
3
4
the fantastic four
1
france
Hotel du ColleCtionneur, Paris Set in the heart of the 8th Arrondissement, this luxury Art Deco hotel is situated within walking distance of the shops and gardens of the ChampsElysées and the emblematic Arc de Triomphe.
3 nights starting from usD 550 per person
includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers. offer: 15% discount on room rate. Valid from: Now unitl 31 Jan, 2018. 74 World Traveller
2
switzerlanD
ViCtoria-JunGFrau Grand Hotel & sPa, interlaken Featuring 216 rooms, of which 106 are junior suites or suites, this five-star property also great food and beverage options as well as a 5,500-square-metre spa with a large indoor swimming pool, outdoor brine bath, whirlpools and sauna complex.
3 nights starting from usD 570 per person
includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast daily. offer: 20% discount on room rate. Valid from: Now until 30 Apr, 18.
3
singapore
sHanGri-la's rasa sentosa resort & sPa This beachfront property sits next to numerous attractions including Southeast Asia’s first Universal Studios, S.E.A. Aquarium, KidZania Singapore and more.
3 nights starting from usD 454 per person
includes: Stay in a Tower Wing Deluxe with breakfast daily and return airport transfers. offer: 25% discount on room rate and 1 child under 6 years stays free. Valid from: 1 Dec, 17 – 31 Mar, 18.
4
seychelles
raFFles seyCHelles Perched on the north-eastern slopes of Praslin Island, this 86 allvilla luxury resort offers five-star service, an array of facilities and the largest pool in the Seychelles.
3 nights starting from usD 1,732 per person
includes: Stay in a Garden View Pool Villa with breakfast daily, return airport/jetty transfers and return boat transfers. offer: 20% discount on room rate, complimentary upgrade to half board and 15% discount on spa. Valid from: 1 Dec, 2017 – 25 Dec, 17.
dnata Travel offers
turkey
sHanGri-la BosPHorus istanBul
3 nights starting from usD 445 per person
special offer: Receive complimentary upgrade to next available room category and 20% discount on spa. includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers. Valid from: Now until 10 Jan, 18.
thailanD
Banyan tree PHuket
3 nights starting from usD 630 per person
special offer: 20% discount on F&B, 20% discount on Spa and complimentary mealsbreakfast, lunch and dinner (kids menu) for 2 kids up to the age of 12 years. includes: Stay in a Banyan pool villa with breakfast daily . Valid from: Now until 28 Mar, 18.
MalDiVes
dHiGali MaldiVes
4 nights starting from usD 1,032 per person
includes: Stay in a Beach Bungalow with breakfast daily and return domestic flights. offer: Stay 3 nights and receive an additional night free, complimentary upgrade to half board and 1 complimentary spa treatment for 2. Valid from: 1 Dec, 17 – 10 Jan, 18. Banyan Tree Phuket
arounD the worlD
czech republic
auGustine, a luxury ColleCtion Hotel, PraGue
5 nights starting from usD 910 per person
includes: Stay in a Classic Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers. offer: Stay 4 nights and receive an additional night free. Valid from: Now until 31 Dec, 17.
austria
Grand Hotel Wien, Vienna
3 nights starting from usD 500 per person
special offer: Stay two nights and receive an additional night free. includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers. Valid from: Now until 27 Dec, 17.
egypt
interContinental City stars
3 nights starting from usD 232 per person
includes: Stay in a Standard Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers. offer: 25% discount on room rate. Valid from: Now until 31 Dec, 17.
Augustine, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Prague
Intercontinental City stars
azerbaijan
Four seasons Hotel Baku
3 nights starting from usD 439 per person
special offer: Stay two nights and receive an additional night free. includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers. Valid from: 2 Dec - 31 Dec, 2017.
tanzania sea CliFF
4 nights starting from usD 435 per person
Shangri-La Bosphorus Istanbul
Sea Cliff
includes: Stay in a Standard Room with breakfast and dinner daily and return airport transfers. offer: Stay 3 nights and receive an additional night free. Valid from: 1 Dec, 17 – 3 Jan, 18.
thailanD
siaM keMPinski Hotel BanGkok
4 nights starting from usD 505 per person
includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers. offer: 15% discount on room rate. Valid from: 1 Dec 17 – 31 Mar 18.
World Traveller 75
Something for the weekend From stylish stays to seaside retreats pick one of these properties for the perfect mini break 1
Photographs: 1. Nikki Beach Resort & Spa Dubai. 2. Mรถvenpick Hotel Ibn Battuta Gate. 3. Fairmont Dubai. 4. Majestic Arjaan Rotana. 5. Palazzo Versace Dubai. 6. Intercontinental Muscat Hotel.
UAE
Mรถvenpick Hotel ibn battuta Gate
1 night starting from USD 213 per person
Special offer: Receive complimentary two tickets per room per night to Dubai Parks & Resort one Park on a single day. Includes: Stay in Superior Room with breakfast and return airport transfers. Valid from: Now until 15 Jan, 2018. nikki beacH ResoRt & spa Dubai
1 night starting from USD 220 per person Special offer: 25% discount on room rate. Includes: Stay in Covet Room with breakfast and 76 World Traveller
return airport transfers. Valid from: Now until 23 Dec, 2017. palazzo veRsace Dubai
1 night starting from USD 227 per person
Special offer: Complimentary upgrade to Premier Versace Room, early check-in, late check-out, 15 % Discount on Spa treatments and 15% Discount on F&B. Includes: Stay in Deluxe Versace Room with breakfast and return airport transfers. Valid from: Now until 31 Dec, 2017. FaiRMont Dubai
1 night starting from USD 154 per person
Special offer: 30% discount on room rate.
Includes: Stay in Fairmont Room with breakfast and return airport transfers. Valid from: Now until 31 Dec, 2017. GRanD MillenniuM al WaHDa Hotel
1 night starting from USD 185 per person
Special offer: 10% discount on room rate. Includes: Stay in Superior Room with breakfast and return airport transfers. Valid from: Now until 31 Dec, 2017.
BAhrAIn
Majestic aRjaan Rotana
1 night starting from USD 122 per person
Special offer: 10% discount on
room rate, early check-in, late check-out, 10% discount on F&B and 10% discount on spa. Includes: Stay in Classic Room and return airport transfers. Valid from: Now until 27 Dec, 2017.
OmAn
inteRcontinental Muscat Hotel
1 night starting from USD 184 per person
Special offer: 20% discount on room rate, late checkout at 14:00 and 2 children under 18 years stay free. Includes: Stay in Standard Mountain View Room with breakfast and return airport transfers. Valid from: Now until 27 Dec, 2017.
dnata Travel offers
3
2
4
5
6
How to book
By calling dnata on +971 4 316 6666
By visiting a dnata outlet or logging on to dnatatravel.com
On the website you can also sign up to the dnata newsletter and receive more offers direct to your inbox. T&Cs apply.
World Traveller 77
dnata Travel offers
Travel in style with Virtuoso For unforgettable experiences and exclusive access to the world’s most exciting destinations, dnata and Virtuoso have you covered
Photograph: Torres del Paine National Park, Patagonia, Chile
Chile – The ATACAmA DeserT & PATAgoniA
Embark on an unforgettable 12-day journey through three of Chile’s most contrasting landscapes. This is an ideal trip for the first time traveller looking for adventure and natural beauty. Chile offers diverse landscapes, dunes, fertile valleys, volcanoes, ancient forests, massive glaciers, fjords and more.
HigHligHts
• Your adventure begins in the Atacama Desert, in the north of Chile, the driest, most desolate and arid in the world. Visit San Pedro de Atacama, considered to be the archaeological capital of Chile. The 78 World Traveller
geological transformations of the desert give birth to ranges, volcanoes, salt flats and lagoons, bodies of water that emerge in the middle of the desert, thermal pools, geysers and marshes. A varied array of flora and fauna has managed to adapt to the extreme conditions of the desert. • Next visit Santiago, the Chilean capital, a modern, sprawling and vibrant metropolis that is flanked on one side by the Andes mountain range, and the Coastal range on the other. Explore history, culture, cuisine and art. • Then head to the awe-inspiring beauty of Patagonia. Situated in the heart of the National Park, the Torres del Paine
Mountains are one of the main attractions of that region and an icon of Chilean Patagonia. The immensity of the ice floes, the majesty of the mountains and the expanse of the lakes are a constant source of wonderment. • Extend your stay by adding Easter Island and visit Rano Raraku, the volcano where most of the moai were carved – nearly 400 moai lie in various stages of completion. Inspired to travel Virtuoso style? To book this trip or see what other exclusive journeys await, call +971 4 316 6666 or log onto dnatatravel.com
Next issue
In next month’s
World Traveller… ➤ Can you find serenity and adventure in Tokyo, Japan? ➤ Indonesia’s Sumba Island offers a dreamy beach resort, cult surf spots and a lot of soul. ➤ Explore Amman in Jordan with our weekend mini guide in hand.
World Traveller 79
Suite dreams
Suite dreams Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a suite that has a character and style all of its own
Al Manhal Suite
The St. Regis Abu Dhabi Located on the 48th floor of The St. Regis Abu Dhabi, the Al Manhal Suite is a bastion of grandeur. Sprawled across 300 square metres, it features a majlis with its own dining room with seating for 10, a spacious living area, a study and a lavish master suite. The latter boasts a walk-in wardrobe, lounge seating, his and her vanities, a free-standing bathtub beside floor-to-ceiling windows offering views of the city and the sea, as well as a separate shower and spa treatment room. A stay in this stately suite includes access to the hotel’s signature butler service and complimentary Bentley-chauffeured transfers. Find out more at stregisabudhabi.com
80 World Traveller
Running right across Abu Dhabi city, Al Ain and Al Dhafra, ADFF will serve up 15 new feature events this year, including the Truckers Carnival, the Street Food Market, the Big Piknik, Beach Feast, ‘Delicious Cinema’, the Truckers Stop, Top Secret Long Table, and the ever-popular Street Fest in both Abu Dhabi and Al Ain as well as a Truckers Park in Al Dhafra. Come and sample something sumptuous! 800555
OFFICIAL MEDIA PARTNER
PRESENTED BY
Festive Celebrations at JW Marriott Marquis. Elevate your festivities to new heights at JW Marriott Marquis Dubai, your ultimate dining destination. Make this festive season extra special for you and your loved ones with impeccable flavours, fun entertainment and memorable experiences. FESTIVE MARKET WITH FAMILY AND FRIENDS MERRY FAMILY CELEBRATIONS AFTERNOON TEA IN A LIFE-SIZE GINGERBREAD HOUSE AWARD-WINNING TURKEY TAKEAWAY EPIC NEW YEAR’S EVE PARTIES Indulge in award-winning cuisine this Festive Season, one dish at a time. For more information, call +971 4 414 3000 or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com
Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T + 971 4 414 0000 I jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com JW Marriott Marquis Dubai I @JWDubaiMarquis I jwmarriottmarquisdubai