World Traveller July'16

The Region’s BiggesT LuxuRy TRaveL Magazine

issue ninety nine | July 2016

Complimentary Copy

Cuba

Travel adventures untold, from charming Havana to unspoilt ViĂąales Valley

Produced in International Media Production Zone

oman

Explore the fascinating culture of the Sultanate, and its opulent places to stay

prague

Uncover the secret, peaceful path through a Czech city with two sides...

umbria

Tread in the footsteps of history, gasp in awe of natural splendour, and... keep the family entertained? It's possible

July 2016 World Traveller

Victoria Thatcher

Editor’s Note

Editorial Director

Issue ninety nine

Managing Director

John Thatcher

Group Commercial Director

David Wade Editor

Chris Ujma Contributing Editor

Hayley Skirka Art Director

Andy Knappett Designer

Emi Dixon Illustrator

Andrew Thorpe Sales Manager

Lisa Price lisa@hotmediapublishing.com +971 4 375 3608 Production Manager

Muthu Kumar

July 2016

When living in Dubai, Oman is one of those places. It’s like Paris is to London, or Singapore is when living in Kuala Lumpur: you’re aware that there’s a destination full of wonder sitting on the doorstep, and yet... you never commit to actually going. Months roll by; you’re content in the knowledge that it will ‘always be there’, and ‘one day...’ you will finally explore. Well it’s time to seize the moment, and our comprehensive insight to Oman will ignite your desire to visit the travel-treasure next door.

Actually, the luxury-road less-travelled is where we find ourselves (without a map) this month. That includes an adventure unearthing the wonders of Cuba, leaving the crowds behind to experience the hidden side of Prague, and attempting to blend the seemingly impossible mix of history, culture and family-fun in Umbria.

We’ve an assortment of places viewed from an entirely different perspective, but don’t call us visionaries. We just love a truly unique tale that will captivate our friends once we get back home.

Chris Ujma christopher@hotmediapublishing.com @wt_magazine

Cover: Cuba

Jun-Dec 2015 | 22,984 | BPA Consumer Audit Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller.

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July 2016 World Traveller

Contents

The Sections

Check In 6 Be Here Now

The majestic Khareef monsoon transforms southern Oman, plus a plan to witness Africa’s wildebeest migration (from a safe distance) Check In News and inspiration from around the world

11 Globetrotter

El Corte Inglés celebrates its 75th anniversary, two Scottish abodes have a gentlemanly duel, and Domes Noruz arrives on the hotel scene

Destinations In-depth travel features to fuel your wanderlust

20 Chef’s Top Tables

Dario Cammarata of Villa Kennedy Hotel shares his must-visit eateries around the globe

23 Spotlight On: Baku

The newest addition to the Formula 1 calendar has plenty else to get the explorer’s heart racing Weekends Everything you need to know about short-haul escapes

24 Style & Wellness

Spa news, travel accessories and fashion; make your upcoming excursion that bit more stylish 3

Welcome Contents

Destinations

Weekends

34 Iconic: Guangzhou

61 Oman Special

38 Learning Curve

76 One Weekend for All: Rome

44 The Time is Now

78 Great Escapes: A Splash of Summer

52 Double Czech

82 48-Hour Foodie

The home of dim sum is a veritable parcel of travel delight, and as an historic Chinese port city it’s a cultural soup, where old meets new

A beautiful tale of history, views and cuisine in Italy’s stunning Umbria... but wait, there’s a twist: the kids are in tow

Long on the radar but long inaccessible, Cuba is emerging as a labyrinth of wonder. Book soon; book ahead; prepare to be amazed

When it comes to Prague, there are two sides to every city-story. Here’s how to find the bestkept secrets in this destination of intrigue

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The best hotels and must-see sights: here’s where to stay and what to do when in the mighty Sultanate of Oman

The Eternal City is a must-visit if you’ve never been, and evokes fond memories if you have. We explore this Euro-gem

Cool-off (and make family-memories too) at this collection of waterparks: the perfect solution to beat the heat

As festival season graces the Austrian captial, we ensure travellers get their share of fine fare on a Vienna weekend

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Check In Be Here Now

Now

Be Here

Masai Mara, Kenya From July onwards the ‘World Cup of Wildlife’ occurs, as a high density of wildebeest have congregated in the Western Corridor and are ready to unleash their thundering might across across a broad front. Some head through Grumeti Reserve and Ikorongo, others north through the heart of Serengeti National Park, and then move on from Tanzania to the pastures of Kenya. This stage of the migration – where thousands of the powerful beasts cross the obstacle of the Mara River, being snapped at by crocs and then preyed upon by lions – is an immense sight, best viewed from up-high in a hot air balloon over the plains of Masai Mara. Up, up and away.

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July 2016 April 2015 World Traveller

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Check In Be Here Now

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July 2016 World Traveller

Southern Oman This is no ordinary lush-green vista.

Months before, this very landscape was arid desert as far as the eye can see; what transforms this area from dry to delightful is Khareef – the monsoon season. Surface winds whip the Indian Ocean and in turn create a cooling of the southern region of Oman (the coastal fringe of Dhofar and Salalah), with moist air and rainwater ensuring the mountains become blanketed in foliage. Wildlife flock to the region and nature lovers can spot Arabian leopards, hyenas, gazelle and hundreds of cows, camels and goats (with plenty of treats to witness through bird-watching binoculars, too). Each year, Khareef is marked with a festival from July 15 to August 31: it’s a celebration of fashion, national heritage, local cuisine, music, traditional performances and folklore troupes. The arrival of the natural phenomenon makes this period the ideal time for an Omani weekend staycation... turn to page 61 for hints on where to stay and what to savour whilst in the Sultanate.

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July 2016 World Traveller

Globetrotter Here’s what’s hot in travel this month…

New Arrival

Domes Noruz, Chania, Crete If it’s an escape from the unpredictable you’re seeking, this brand-new adults only retreat in the Chania area of Crete could be just what you’re after.

The latest addition to the Marriott’s Autograph Collection Hotels throws open its doors on July 20, when guests can select elegant suites with pool or sea views or go for an upmarket stay in a Sublime Loft, where Cretan heritage meets modern design in a home-away-from-home spread over

two magnificent levels. Opt for stunning sea views and a private plunge pool, or pool views with your very own heated jacuzzi. When it comes to dining, relax into the Noruz way at Zeen restaurant under the watch of award-winning chef Doxis Bekris, or head to the funky Raw Bar – set to be Chania’s newest hotspot – where you can feast on fresh local seafood and drink-in one of the finest sunsets you’ll ever see. Unwind with a treatment at the

in-house spa where a whole host of natural treatments using organic herbs from the local area are on the menu. This beachfront property is based in bustling Agioi Apostoli, an area that’s quickly becoming one of the Mediterranean’s must-sees. Take a stroll along the Venetian harbour, soak up an endless stream of Ottoman, Venetian and Greek architecture, then see the area come alive in the evening with fine dining, great music and sparkling pool parties.

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Check In Globetrotter © 2016 David Drebin

Culture

Day Dreaming

Master photographer David Drebin’s Dreamscapes by teNeues is a great book for anyone with a thirst for wanderlust.

Turn the pages, allowing yourself to be transported from the beaches of the Amalfi Coast to downtown San Francisco, via the boulevards of Paris and beyond.

Reflections of light and dramatic colour ensure the perfect daydream.

Scotland Food for thought

Around The World

As Carnaby Street Eat food festival rolls into London (July 23) with a focus on global cuisine, we look at some of the city’s more permanent spots for international fare...

Peruvian

Señor Ceviche is the only Peruvian restaurant in the area and the perfect place to enjoy mouthwatering ceviche. carnaby. co.uk/store/señor-ceviche

British

Try delicious steaks from mighty Yorkshire Longhorn cattle at Hawksmore Seven Dials, housed in the old Watney-Combe brewery. sevendials.co.uk/stores/hawksmoor

Italian

A deep-rooted love of Italy is obvious in every dish at Vico and the authentic Italian piazzo even boasts an indoor fountain. sevendials.co.uk/stores/vico

Ethiopian

With all seats centred around a huge injra (flatbread), long-standing Lalibela in Tufnell Park offers Ethiopan dining you’ll love. lalibelarestaurant.co.uk 12

Relax in an 800-year-old tavern or go fishing in one of the world’s greatest salmon rivers Banchory Lodge Hotel

What to expect? A Grade-II listed Georgian building on the outside and a contemporary chic setting on the inside, this family-friendly lodge is a fantastic place to unwind. Opt for a traditional, cosy, rustic or grand room or stay overnight in the property’s best-kept secret, the quaint Cobbleheugh, for a real home-away-from home experience.

Where is it? Set where the thundering River Dee meets the meandering Water of Feugh, you can enjoy gorgeous river views flanked by rolling hills at Banchory Lodge.

With golf, fishing, walking and shooting facilities onsite, the lodge is located in the picturesque burgh of Banchory, making it an ideal base from where to explore this part of Scotland with the Cairngorms National Park, dramatic coastlines and Balmoral Castle all just a short drive away.

Must-do? With one of the world’s greatest salmon rivers right on its doorstep, Banchory is a fisherman’s paradise. Meanwhile, Sunday brunch is a definite must-do thanks to the impressive showcase of delicious dishes in the recently refurbished property. banchorylodge.com

Meldrum Country House Hotel

What to expect? A charming baronial mansion, this thirteenth-century hotel offers luxurious tranquillity steeped in history. Rooms are individually designed, all boasting real character, and dining is a delight with locally-sourced ingredients prevalent on the seasonal menus. Golf lovers will be in their element at the worldclass golfing academy.

Where is it? Nestled in a 240-acre estate in the charming Scottish countryside, keep your eyes peeled for timid roe-deer or soaring falcons as you make your way up the impressive driveway. With rolling parklands and the private 18-hole golf course there’s certainly no shortage of greenery, but for those craving a city break it’s only a few miles from the hotel to the bustling heart of Aberdeen, Scotland’s third largest city.

Must-do? Dine in the Hotel’s Red Rosettewinning restaurant – we recommend the Aberdeen Angus steaks from local (and renowned) Presley butchers in the nearby village of Oldmeldrum. Afterwards, enjoy a post-dinner drink in the 800-year-old Cave Bar. meldrumhouse.com

Check In Globetrotter

Embrace The Boutique

An emphasis on local and unique destinations has seen a huge rise in boutique holidays, as people hunt out authentic experiences in a world that often seems already discovered. Here’s three of our favourites …

Bahrain

Small but beautiful, this tiny island kingdom is perfectly boutique. Luxury shopping malls alongside ancient cities, a World Trade Center powered by wind turbines and a mysterious 400-yearold tree that survives without water, there are stories to be discovered.

Stay at the beautiful SeaLoft (thesealoft.com) overlooking the Arabian Sea for something truly distinct.

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Lexington

This Kentucky getaway is the ideal place to soak up some good old Southern hospitality.

Entirely walkable, the city is awash with history, the 130-year-old opera house is a definite must-see. This being the horse capital of the world, make time to visit historic Keeneland Race Course here before bedding-down in a stately room at The Castle Post (thecastlepost.com) just a few kilometres away.

Vaxjo

In the middle of Sweden’s Småland, this city is officially the greenest in Europe. Known as the kingdom of crystal thanks to its history of creating handblown glass, you can witness the glass artists in action, go swimming alfresco in the lake district, attend a sing-along in Linneparken, or tuck into delicious Swedish fare with a stay at Scandinavia’s first gastro hotel, PM & Vanner (pmrestauranger.se/en).

July 2016 World Traveller

Insider Full Steam Ahead

Trainspotters take note, Belmond is launching South America’s first luxury sleeper train, the Belmond Andean Explorer in Peru. Expected to run from May 2017, the journey will whisk travellers across the Peruvian Andes from Cusco to Lake Titicaca and Arequipa. One for the bucket list.

App Travel Buddies

App in the Air is the personal travel assistant you’ve been waiting for. Keeping you up-to-date with your flight status, providing in-airport navigation maps and handy airport tips – like where to find the best food and how to connect to free wireless networks – it’s the ideal travel companion.

Going Up in the World

The Royal City

Where? Luang Prabang, Laos Why? Thanks to the announcement of a new road linking China to Thailand via Luang Prabang, tiny landlocked Laos is set to be the hottest spot in Southeast Asia.

What? With Saffron-clad monks, ancient temples, Gallic cuisine and colonial mansions, the tiny mountain kingdom of Luang Prabang is also a designated UNESCO World Heritage site. Watch long tail boats race down the Mekong River, swim in aquamarine waterfalls, or visit an elephant camp in this mystical city.

Where to stay? Surrounded by tropical gardens and lofty mountain views, a stay at The Luang Say Residence offers colonialstyle luxury suites, a huge swimming pool surrounded by replica umbrellas used by explorers who rode on elephantback through the Laotian hills, and delicious fine dining at Le Belle Epoque. luangsayresidence.com

Celebrate summer with El Corte Inglés

From a humble tailor’s shop in the heart of Madrid to the biggest department store in Europe, El Corte Inglés is celebrating 75 years of fashion this summer...

Step Back in Time

Head to the first ever El Corte Inglés store on Madrid’s Preciados Street and take a journey through time looking at the fashion, the trends, the advertising and the tastes that have shaped society over the past 75 years. After Madrid, the exhibition will travel to Barcelona, Seville, Bilbao, Malaga, Alicante and Palma de Mallorca. It’s obligatory viewing for any fashion fans in Spain this summer.

Football Fever

With La Liga and the Copa Del Rey renowned across the world, football fans will notice that El Corte Inglés will be dressing the Spanish football team for the next three years thanks to its in-house brand Emidio Tucci. Look out for the players donning timeless yet contemporary looks at both this summer’s UEFA Euro 2016 tournament in France and the upcoming 2018 World Cup in Russia.

Tuck In

There’s no love greater than the love of food, or so they say, and whether it’s tapas or paella, food is central to Spanish culture. It’s only natural, then, that it takes pride of place in the anniversary celebrations at El Corte Inglés. Expect delicious food fairs that are overflowing with top quality produce, exclusive products, and a focus on delicious artisanal local ingredients; it’s time to get eating.

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Check In My City

MY CITY

Oxford, England

Richard Ovenden of Bodleian Libraries – the main research library of the University of Oxford – talks us through ‘The City of Dreaming Spires’ Start your day with a brisk walk around Christ Church Meadow, seeing the rare fritillaries and thinking about the great figures – John Locke, Lewis Carroll, Evelyn Waugh, Iris Murdoch and more – who have thought great thoughts while making the same stroll. I’d then take in the Pitt Rivers Museum and Ashmolean Museums, and another fine walk can be had around the wonderful Covered Market, shopping for food before quaffing some well-earned hops in the ancient Turf Tavern.

In terms of chosen abode whilst here, The Old Parsonage is a uniquely beautiful seventeenth century house, now 16

a stunning hotel. Radcliffe Square is a memorable must-visit, which has the magnificent Radcliffe Camera at its centre, surrounded by the old Bodleian, three colleges, and the ancient University Church (which is one of the most spectacular architectural spaces in Europe).

The fashion forward, meanwhile, should head to Ducker & Son on Turl Street, a fabulously old-fashioned shoe shop, and can show off the new togs while dining at the Cherwell Boathouse. The latter is located on the banks of the Cherwell River, you can work up an appetite punting, then enjoy local fare and a glass of grape.

For a slice of peace and quiet, The University Botanic Gardens is the oldest in the UK, the second oldest in Europe, and is a haven of beauty in the heart of Oxford that has inspired writers like Philip Pullman. On the literary theme, buy an erudite volume or two in Blackwell’s, still the country’s biggest and best bookshop

with hundreds of thousands of books, well-chosen by dedicated staff. Then clink glasses at The White Horse on Broad Street, a pub frequented by Lewis and Tolkien. Most people don’t know this about the city, but it was the destination of the first photographic journey in the world – William Henry Fox Talbot included photographs of Oxford in the first publication illustrated by his invention in 1844, called The Pencil of Nature. He regarded Oxford as ‘the place of the genius of repose’, and in 2017 Oxford will host a major photography festival.

Finally, not being biased, but visit the Bodleian Libraries – it has some of the most beautiful rooms in the world, such as the fifteenth century Divinity School (home to the Oxford Parliament in the 1640s) and Duke Humfrey’s Library, where J.R.R. Tolkien researched much of his life’s work.

Oxford is a city that is truly steeped in history and heritage.

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Check In Ask The Expert Tbilisi

Ask the EXPERT

Rob Arrow is a product manager at dnata Travel and a self-confessed hotel geek. With nearly a decade of experience in the luxury travel industry, Rob loves nothing more than talking hotels and discovering destinations. His favourite country is Lebanon, his treasured city’s Los Angeles, and his dream is to own a boutique retreat in the Italian Alps Q. As we discover in this issue, Cuba is slowly opening up for travel. Which emergent destinations have taken you by surprise in the past few years, and what makes them special?

A. An asset of being based in a very central region is the ability to easily travel in all directions and in many cases be the first to discover what is on offer around this magnificent globe. People in the GCC are pioneers of the new travel trends, and an ever-expanding network of legacy carriers means we can travel direct to almost all reaches of the world. Over the last couple of years, as borders have moved and visa restrictions erased, some really exciting 18

destinations have started to pop up. Closeby is Baku in Azerbaijan – a fabulous city with a vibe of Istanbul but the look of Paris, happily perched on the shores of the Caspian Sea. With its magical Yanar Dag ‘Fire Mountain’ mesmerising and its burning earth, leisurely strolls around Fountain Square, and the lovely Azeri restaurants in which to enjoy the localgrown vegatables, you will get lost in this new discovery.

Not far from Azerbaijan is Georgia, and again this has seen a recent flux of longweekenders from the GCC region. Here you get the wonderful city of Tbilisi, and just an hour or so drive away, the magical mountain world of Kasbegi means you can dream you are in the Alps – though small in size it’s big in wonder.

A little further from home is Japan and the cities of Kyoto and Tokyo. They are especially popular in Cherry Blossom season and many enjoy the zen aura of laidback Kyoto. With the new Four Seasons opening at the end of the year in Kyoto, I think that it will blossom itself into a key destination. Seoul has also seen a recent upsurge from this region, thanks to its mega malls for shopping at good prices and the opportunity to savour some fantastic noodles: real highlights.

Q. July is when festival season gets into full swing – especially in Europe.

What are the events you recommend (and where should visitors stay)?

A. July is a month that the world wakes up, and mostly to the sound of music. For a more refined festival experience, check into the glorious Goodwood Park Hotel for the Goodwood Festival of Speed. Reside in a luxurious boutique hotel in central London like The Wellselley, London in Knightsbridge to visit the Henley Royal Regatta, seeing the rowers’ power down the River Thames and to enjoy the brief burst of UK summer.

If you want more excitement then head across to Belgium and take in the Tomorrowland Festival. Check into the lovely Hotel Amigo, Brussels and enjoy the contemporary atmosphere before setting off for electronic music with a Belgiancountryside backdrop. A destination that is much quieter in the summer, but has its dose of sound, is Verbier in Switzerland.

You can be assured a slice of finesse.

In general, summertime in Europe is about getting out and enjoying the short spell of good weather. For more about travelling in Europe (or to one of these cool festivals), visit your local dnata outlet, call our contact centre or log onto dnatatravel.com

Check In Chef’s Top Tables

This page: Le Calandre.

Opposite page, clockwise from top: Duomo; Le Calandre; Eleven Madison Park.

Chef’s

TOP TABLES Executive Chef Dario Cammarata can be found cooking up at storm at Gusto restaurant in Villa Kennedy – Frankfurt’s most elegant 5-star hotel. What are his global culinary secrets?

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Ristorante Duomo, Ragusa, Sicily Order: Potato gnocchi ‘al ragusano’ with sepia-pork meatballs and salsa alla carbonara Every time I visit my Sicilian home I make sure to stop here. The chef Ciccio Sultano is a fanatic of good products and tradition.

His creations are really innovative and expressive: simple recipes re-interpreted with a double-Michelin star touch. I love the gnocchi and it is really worth the journey.

Le Calandre, Sarmeola di Rubano, Italy Order: Buffalo ricotta, mozzarella cannelloni with tomato sauce

I simply adore Massimiliano Alajmo. His buffalo ricotta and mozzarella cannelloni with tomato sauce are the perfect combination of tradition and innovation.

His serving method is geometric art and I’ve never eaten a tomato sauce that is so pure in its taste.

July 2016 World Traveller

Le restaurant, Valence, France Order: Consommé glacé with blackcurrant leaf, elderflower ice cream and vanilla espuma

Anne-Sophie Pic serves a changing menu with exclusive seasonal dishes full of taste.

Her plates are clear and feminine, and she uses 100% regional produce. The first time I entered the restaurant I was overwhelmed by the minimalistic design, the warm welcome and later on by the perfect menu.

Eleven Madison Park Restaurant, Fulvio Pierangelini, Tuscany New York Order: Artichokes alla Romana Order: Celeriac risotto Last but not least, my absolute favourite Definitely one of my favourites not only because of the delicious cuisine but also because I’m visiting an old friend. Daniel and I have worked together in Switzerland.

One of my favourite dishes is his celeriac risotto - creamy and yummy. His secret is shaved celery and Amarettini crumbs on top, that gives it the special twist.

dish in combination with one of my most most-loved places: Artichokes alla Romana at Fulvio Pierangelini’s house in Tuscany.

Fulvio is the Director of Food with Rocco Forte Hotels; hence I have had the honour of working with him, and Fulvio is a ‘protectionist’ of regional food, creating very fresh, healthy and tasty combinations.

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July 2015 World Traveller

Spotlight On Baku A fusion of East and West

centred around gleaming skyscrapers and a UNESCOlisted Old Town, Azerbaijan’s capital is about much more than Eurovision glory

Eat and Drink Mugham Club

In the walls of a 500 year-old fortress, this is the ideal spot to tuck into authentic Azeri dishes with a distinctly modern twist.

Decorated with old photographs of Baku, the atmosphere is purely magical with its stonewalls, Persian rugs, open ceilings, fig trees and twinkling lanterns.

Chinar Lounge

See and Do The Old City

This World Heritage Site is an absolute must-do. Making up the historical core of the city, its cobbled streets are a world away from the city’s gleaming skyscrapers. Climb to the top of the twelfth-century Maiden Tower, tour the Palace of the Shirvanshahs, browsing tiny antique stores and stop to refresh at a traditional tearoom.

Originally a teahouse and retaining the original Chinar trees on its downtown terrace, this is the perfect place to enjoy a sophisticated evening with Baku’s trendsetters. Have dinner in the bambooscreened restaurant or head upstairs for late night drinks in the lavish bar as the DJ keeps everyone entertained.

Baku Boulevard

Kafe Araz

Stay Four Seasons Baku

Packed with little wooden tables, this 24-hour traditional eatery is where the locals dine. Tuck into authentic Azeri food – sample bear if you’re brave enough – in relaxed surroundings where food delights tastebuds and prices delight the wallet.

Packed with cafes, fountains and fairground rides, this seafront park is the perfect place for a family day out. The Mugham Centre hosts regular festivals and concerts featuring Azerbaijani music and the Old Puppet Theatre is a great spot to try the national pastime – it’s not just for kids.

With every room boasting gorgeous views of either the Caspian Sea or the historic Old Town, this hotel offers a slice of elegance you’ll want to experience. Tuck into topnotch cuisine; pamper yourself with a

traditional hammam treatment in the topfloor spa and then shop at the Park Bulvar Shopping Centre, two minutes’ drive away.

Jumeirah Bilgah Beach Hotel

Beside 300m of white sand on the eastern edge of Baku (where the air is said to be purest) this was the first international resort in the city and is known for its stylish rooms and wellness-centric approach. A spa centre with thermal beds will help adults relax, while the kids have fun at the onsite waterpark.

• Don’t miss

Head 25km northeast of Baku to witness the spectacle that is Yanar Dag (Fire Mountain). Whilst we can’t actually agree with the ‘mountain’ terminology – it’s definitely more of a hill – the folkloreshrouded, eternally blazing mound is pretty spectacular. Catch it at night to see the Absheron winds twist the three-metre-high flames into mysterious shapes under a starry sky.

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Check In Style & Wellness

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Style Wellness

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What to pack for a holiday in...

Thailand 1. Emilio Pucci Printed Bikini Bottoms, AED1,578 2. Master & Dynamic, MH40 Over Ear Headphones, AED1,364 3. Chloé Suede Wedges, AED1,578 4. Alexander McQueen, Piercing Bar Round Frame Sunglasses, AED1,407 5. Smythson, Panama Live Love Laugh Leather Notebook, AED193 6. Maslin & Co Printed Cotton Towel, AED 808 All items available at STYLEBOP.com

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July 2016 World Traveller

The Style-Savvy Local

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Sally Sarieddine is founder of LaLaQueen, a contemporary fashion label whose bags have featured in such titles as British Vogue and Harper’s Bazaar. She tells us about the best that Beirut has to offer

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On a fashion hunt while visiting, you must head to Mira Hayek atelier in Gemayzeh, where you will definitely find a sport chic outfit that you could confidently and comfortably cruise around in; it is one of my treasured boutiques there. When it comes to the best restaurants, there is so much amazing food in Lebanon that you won’t have trouble finding something delicious. I have to say Dar Bistro & Books in Hamra is one of my all-time favourite spots in Beirut. They have a gorgeous little bookstore and exhibit some really interesting photography work which is fantastic to peruse after a lovely meal. Among my choice hangouts would have to be some of Beirut’s cool outdoor venues. If I have time in the city I head down to Sporting Beach Club (one of the oldest beach clubs in the city) and find a quiet spot facing the sea to read a book. At the weekend I take a drive to Batroun, a beautiful coastal city in Northern Lebanon and one of the oldest cities in the world, or spend the day with family and friends in Bzebdine (my village) which is a lovely place with beautiful scenery and fresh air. For culture, Metro al Madina and Masrah al Madina have a really cool mix of different types of local and international performances, and whether it’s dance, music or theatre, there is something for everyone to enjoy at these theatres. My tip is to connect with someone Lebanese and accept an invitation for lunch or dinner at their house. You’ll never see the city the same way as when you’re with a local! Shop Sally’s designs at lalaqueen.com 25

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The Spa You Need

Forty Winks

A good night’s sleep. It’s the foundation for a productive day (especially one of travel exploration), and is an element that can make or break the success of a getaway. ‘Sleep Escapes’ are on the rise, be it for those looking to address deep-rooted pillow problems, or others simply looking for a satisfying spell of kip

I’m looking for...

East, West & plenty of zeds Kamalaya Koh Samui, Thailand

The core focus here is on naturopathy, looking at traditional Chinese Medicine, massage therapy and mind-body balance.

Kamalaya’s approach looks more at your inner aura, with treatments such as Shirodhara, acupuncture and foot massages within a therapeutic programme that combat life’s stresses and strains. The property has stunning rooms and villas, and the resort itself is centred around a Bhuddist monk’s cave; a place of meditation and spiritual retreat, the name translates as Lotus Realm. It’s a deeply holistic destination on the path to inner peace and sleep enhancement. kamalaya.com 26

Dedicated slumber specialists The Sleep Retreat, United Kingdom

In a cosy Hampshire country house is an authentic, homely setting in which to solve your sleep issues. Other outfits in the UK vie for their throne, but The Sleep Retreat does it best. Their ‘four pillars’ of treatment are wellness, social, nutritional and clinical, and they use ‘evidence-based techniques… based on years of research and practice by international sleep experts’ to equip you with the cognitive behavioural therapies that will ensure better long-term sleep.

Stunning rural countryside, Alice Macairedesigned rooms, plus a gym, sauna, sports facilities and massage/yoga studio make this a dream setting. the-sleep-retreat.com

A resort adored by the UAE The Orchard Wellness & Health Resort, Malaysia

They regularly welcome guests from this region, who avail the signature weight loss, detox and fitness treatments; the insomnia sleep enhancement programme is beginning to prove popular. A consultation session conducted by physicians delves into lifestyle, medical history and sleep patterns, paired with a sleep image scan. Among the cures are a discussion on managing insomnia, nutritional therapy to induce sleep, yoga, meditation, and even a dash of traditional Chinese medicine. You can stay up to ten nights at this wellness spa, voted Malaysia’s best. orchardwellness.com

July 2015 World Traveller

Eastern Delights Make memories with a day of romantic luxury at the Park Hyatt Dubai...

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ndulge in your mind, body and soul with a romantic escape at one of Dubai’s finest five-star resorts. Experience romance in the stunning, serene and intimate setting at the Park Hyatt Dubai, the perfect getaway for couples seeking some quality time.

Begin your voyage with the Amara Couples’ Journey, a three-hour indulgent experience that is simply perfect for two.

Beginning with a delicate rose petal handand-foot bathing ceremony in the comfort of a private garden at the award-winning Amara Spa, couples can select their choice of soothing melodies before settling down next to one another for a blissful coffee and cardamom scrub. Enjoy the scintillating scents as your highly trained therapists

gently perform the treatment, and then wrap each of you in a sandalwood and rosewater wrap - a therapy sure to leave your skin glowingly soft. Afterwards, it’s time to truly relax with a full body massage that incorporates the best of all worlds; with Balinese techniques, Hawaiian movements and Thai-inspired stretching.

Finish proceedings with a phyto-aromatic facial, leaving you refreshed and hydrated and then enjoy some time reconnecting as you relax on a private terrace.

As the sun goes down, it’s time to get ready for a dinner to remember. The Thai Kitchen presents authentic dishes prepared by native chefs. World-renowned Chef Supattra Boonsrang – Chef de Cuisine at

The Thai Kitchen – hails from Thailand and her authentic experience, coupled with 23 years as a Hyatt chef are not to be missed.

With three live cooking stations, recreating the excitement of bustling Bangkok, the restaurant offers mouth-watering cuisine with the majority of ingredients either being imported directly from Thailand or sourced from Chef Supattra’s private herb patch in the grounds of the hotel. Order the spicy pomelo salad and the roasted red duck curry for a meal to remember and the perfect end to your day.

Reconnect with someone you love, escape the rest of the world for a day and find peace and pleasure at the Park Hyatt Dubai. dubai.park.hyatt.com 27

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Indian Ocean Jewel

A dash of European heritage, an exotic island address, nature and cuisine galore, and so much more; here are five reasons to fall in love with Kempinski Seychelles Resort, Baie Lazare

A Stunning Destination

Pictures of this property look like postcards: the ocean and sky compete for the ‘most beautiful blue’ crown, while the 1.2km-long beach is content with being sandy white and a contrast to the lush green backdrop. This is not just any ‘greenery’ either: the resort is on the cusp of two UNESCO World Heritage sites. Within easy reach are the capital Victoria and also the islands of Praslin and La Digue, so the avid explorer has much to discover, with the Kempinski Seychelles as their opulent headquarters. That said, the hotel has plenty of competing reasons to convince the guest to stay on-resort, such as a sunset dinner or sunrise breakfast overlooking the beach or lagoon. Speaking of food…

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Dining Delights

The hotel is proud of its culinary portfolio, and with good reason. Café Lazare is a scrumptious place to start (or end) the day, with all-day dining that has themed buffets in the evenings. Windsong Beach Restaurant has direct beach access, and is the ideal place for grilled seafood and BBQ, with the sound of the waves as a soothing accompaniment. There’s Planters Bar & Lounge, which offers light snacks, indulgent cocktails and live music. And for fare in a more-formal environment, L’Indochine is the prime place for connoisseurs of PanAsian cuisine. The pièce de résistance is that the resort boasts its own sushi chef, crafting what is arguably the best sushi served in the Seychelles.

A Sense of Occasion

One thing about this resort is that they know how to put on a show: from weddings, honeymoons and banquets to ballroom soirées or business meetings, there’s every reason to complement that top-notch event with a slice of paradise and luxury. For example, The Salon Quincy Ballroom here is one of the largest event rooms in the Seychelles, and on-site prestige also includes the only hotel-gaming venue in the south of Mahé Island. There are plenty of special offer opportunities for a treat, with a host of stay-combinations such as the Early Booker or Spa packages tailored by the brand for those seeking an extra remarkable holiday experience.

July 2016 World Traveller

Wellness, Recreation and Family Fun

Adults can opt for a pampering session in magnificent Kempinski The Spa, where a menu of treatments are administered in traditional bungalow houses surrounded by lush forest. The signature, seasonal and beauty regimes ensure guests come away restored, revitalised, relaxed and energised – depending on which therapy they indulge in. Meanwhile for the more active, an Olympic-sized pool, fitness centre, PADI diving centre and two tennis courts should get the adrenaline pumping, or continue the quest for inner peace up on the hill with a spot of yoga. Those most discerning of guests – the children – have not been forgotten here either. A

dedicated team is on-hand to keep them entertained at the Kids’ Club, where they can partake in engaging activities such as tortoise feeding. After the clan has gone its separate ways, they can reunite and share time with a range of leisure pursuits such as beach volleyball and badminton, nature walks, watersports activities like snorkelling or water golf, and there are even bikes available for rent so the family can go exploring with a dose of pedal-power.

Stay in Style

After all the excitement, when it’s time to retire back to a spacious abode there are suite options to suit every vista. Hill View, Sea View, and Sea View Garden rooms are stunning and the Exclusive Suites take

luxury up a notch or two to a ‘royal’ level.

Available in One Bedroom Hill View or Sea View Garden, these contemporarily decorated suites have lounge areas, kingsized beds, generous-sized bathrooms and all of the comforts one would expect – not to mention stunning vantages of flora to wake-up to each morning. For direct beach access, the Sea View option is a hop away from sinking feet into soft sand, and the Hill View choice overlooks the verdant forests of Mahé. The rooms have been carefully composed to ensure that each is a worthy of being called a ‘home away from home’.

For more about this stunning property (and its guest offers), visit kempinski.com/en/ baie-lazare/seychelles-resort 29

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WORLD TRAVELLER

Reader Offers

A Switzerland Hotel Warwick Geneva

5 nights from USD902 per person Special offer: 15% discount on room rates Includes: Stay in a Classic Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now 'til Aug 31, 2016 Head down the the lobbyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s spiral staircase and step into this spectacular city. The hotel is in close proximity to Lake Geneva, the Patek Philippe Museum, and the Grand Theatre.

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B Italy Armani Hotel Milano, Milan

5 nights from USD1,616 per person Special offer: 25% discount on room rates Includes: Stay in an Armani Deluxe Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now 'til Aug 31, 2016 This is not a mere appreciation of design: it's an immersion into the Armani philosophy. Well, when in Rome...

Czech Republic Augustine, A Luxury Collection Hotel, Prague

5 nights from USD984 per person Special offer: Stay 4 nights and receive an additional night free and complimentary upgrade to next room category Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now 'til Aug 31, 2016 The brand calls this hotel 'the quintessence of Pragueâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s historic character and beauty'.

Jordan The Boulevard Arjaan by Rotana

2 nights from USD159 per person Special offer: Receive 20% discount on room rate and complimentary upgrade to the next room category Includes: Stay in a Classic Studio with breakfast Validity: Now 'til Sep 30, 2016

A lifestyle destination (or, even, a community). The stylish hotel apartments are an ideal stay for a spot of shopping and dining.

July 2016 World Traveller

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How to Book You can book these offers by calling dnata on

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+971 4 316 6666

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E Seychelles AVANI Seychelles Barbarons Resort & Spa

F Sri Lanka Anantara Peace Haven Tangalle Resort

3 nights from USD430 per person Special offer: 50% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in an Avani Beach Access Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now 'til Sep 15, 2016

3 nights from USD542 per person Special offer: 35% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in a Premier Garden View Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now 'til Sep 15, 2016

Refreshing European heritage and a contemporary vibe; perfect for both the relaxing or energetic getaway.

We urge you to snap up this offer at the recent addition to Sri Lanka's luxury hotel scene.

A true hospitality highlight.

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Singapore Shangri-La Hotel Singapore

4 nights from USD694 per person Special offer: Stay 3 nights and receive an additional night free, plus kids under 16 years-old stay free Includes: Stay in a Garden Wing Deluxe City View Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now 'til Sep 15, 2016 A three-wing luxury hotel just 6km from iconic Marina Bay.

Or visit dnatatravel.com Terms and conditions apply. On the same site you can also sign up to dnata’s newsletter and receive more offers direct to your inbox.

H Bali Meliá Bali – The Garden Villas, Indonesia

2 nights from USD357 per person Special offer: 25% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in a Melia Guest Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now 'til Sep 15, 2016 Set in 11-hectares of lush forest and on the beachfront, this is escapism at its best. Five restaurants, YHI SPA, and supreme service. Exotic.

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Shangri-La Paris

The Alpina Gstaad

St James's Hotel & Club

Four Seasons Resort Maldives Kuda Huraa

dnataâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s FANTASTIC FOUR

The Prime of Life

Nestled among the travel-destination elite, these four prestigious places carry themselves with aplomb I

UK St James's Hotel & Club

4 nights from USD1,325 per person Special Offer: 15% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in an Executive Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now 'til Aug 31, 2016 There's a fine portion of heritage at this Victorian-era property: it dates back to 1857. The five-star boutique hotel has a Michelin star restaurant, top-notch club, and is located between The Mall and Buckingham Palace.

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France Shangri-La Hotel, Paris

4 nights from USD1,595 per person Special Offer: Complimentary upgrade to next room category Includes: Stay in a Premier Room with return airport transfers Validity: Now 'til Aug 31, 2016 Francofiles will be well-aware that the 6th arrondissement is perfect for sightseeing (the hotel has Eiffel Tower views) and fashion. In a city that embodies elegance, the Shangri-La upholds the sense of regal majesty.

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Switzerland The Alpina Gstaad

3 nights from USD1,095 per person Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfast daily and and compact automatic Volvo V40 rental, or similar, for 4 days with pick-up and drop-off from Geneva Airport via Hertz Validity: Now 'til Aug 31, 2016 Perhaps we should have reserved the word 'majesty' for the soaring Bernese Alps, the backdrop to this high-class hotel: think mountain-view balconies and carved wood ceilings.

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Maldives Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Kuda Huraa

4 nights from USD2,310 per person Special Offer: Stay 3 nights and receive an additional night free and complimentary upgrade to half board. One child under 12 stays free Includes: Stay in a Sunset Beach Pavilion with Pool, with breakfast daily and return speedboat transfers Validity: Now 'til Sep 15, 2016 Indian Ocean; palm trees; beachside bungalows; bliss.

Email us at contactcentre@dnata.com call +971 4 316 6666

Destinations Iconic Guangzhou Shanghai

Guangzhou Iconic

A sprawling Pearl River port city and prosperous metropolis, the well-connected bithplace of dim sum harbours tempting cuisine and a wealth of travel-wonder

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July 2016 November 2015 World Traveller

Bigger is Better 2016 is the eighth anniversary of the successful (daily) Doha-Baiyun International Airport route, and guests flying QR874/875 will celebrate the milestone in style. From July 1, they’ll be aboard the bespoke Airbus A380, as the airline becomes the first foreign carrier to operate the super-jumbo to the city. Extra comfort is 90-inch pitch seats with fully lie-flat beds and spa-inspired bathrooms in First Class, while both First and Business Class guests can relax in the spacious in-flight lounge on the upper deck. There’s ondemand à la carte dining and Armani amenity kits in those classes, too. qatarairways.com

Zhujiang New Town

The Canton Tower side of the river gazes at Huacheng Square, and Haixinsha Island to the far left – the Asian Games gem in the Tianhe district. The Pearl River (popular for day and night cruises) is an everpresent in the city’s storied heritage, serving as the ‘Silk Road on the Sea’ as far back as the Qin dynasty.

Behind the gleaming towers are trade hub fingerprints, where over the ages an influx of architectural and societal flavours moulded firstly a colonial, then a cosmopolitan aura.

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Destinations Iconic Guangzhou

Nanling National Forest Park

Only a day (or night) trip away, 1902m Shikeng Kong Mountain is the tallest peak in the province and commands an area surrounded by forestfuls of pine trees as well as waterfalls, rapids, and plenty of scenic spots to pause for breath and admire the natural splendour.

Foreigners are scarce here (transportation for tourists is limited to renting a car, in truth), but this conservation area is worth the endeavour for a stunning hike alone: itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s as far away from city bustle as a traveller can wish to be.

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July 2016 World Traveller

Chimelong Safari Park

With over 20,000 rare and exotic animals to mesmerise, it is little wonder Chimelong garners the crown as the largest wild animal theme park in the world. Split into two experiences, there is the ‘Safari on Wheels’ which traverses the various habitats, and also walkthrough tours. Visitors can witness an impressive collection of white tigers, tons of protected species like the giant salamander, and a first-class giant panda centre – arguably the main attraction. The latter is home to the only panda triplets in the world and living in a group, they can happily interact. With the Olympic Games in Brazil on the sporting horizon, Chimelong debuted a special Primate Kingdom in April, starring animals from the Amazon river basin. A mustvisit venue for a full-day Guangzhou family adventure.

Guangzhou Opera House

The seductive contours of this riverside cultural icon represent a modern era of aesthetic design, with the ‘twin boulders’ dreamt up

by none other than the late, great ‘Queen of the Curve’ Zaha Hadid. One of three national theatres in the city, the Opera House will host an array of international and home-grown performances

throughout July, from lighthearted puppet shows to more-refined drama, ballet and orchestral showings – the Berlin Philharmonic graces the venue on July 17, for example. gzdjy.org

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Destinations Umbria

Learning Curves

On holiday in Umbria’s idyllic undulating hills, Matt Rudd is keen to broaden his kids’ horizons with art and culture. But can it compete when the villa’s got a cool pool and a great big telly?

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July 2016 World Traveller

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Destinations Umbria Opening pages: View of the Sibillini mountains from Palazzo Borghese.

Clockwise from right: Views from Monte Lino, Umbria; A farmhouse near the Apennine Mountains; A dirt road in Umbria.

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t’s Wednesday afternoon in Montone, a hilltop village so beautiful it would have an open-top tourist train circling it 16 times a day if this were Tuscany. But it isn’t. It’s Umbria, Tuscany’s quieter, sleepier, gentler neighbour. And so it’s just us on the terrace, having lunch, enjoying our own 1800 views of the valley below and the Apennines in the distance.

And because it’s just us, we’re invited into L’Antica Osteria’s family-run kitchen.

The chef is busy making eggs with truffle, the first of four dishes on an outrageously decadent truffle-themed menu. Next, his grandmother comes in with a tray full of ravioli. The second course. She spends five hours every morning making the pasta, but she’s still smiling. Even more amazingly, my children are smiling, too. It’s taken nine years of pain, misery and leaking in-flight nappies to get here, but, for a moment at least, we are at Stage Two. Stage One is simply being able to travel with kids, have them come back alive and, on balance, for us all to have enjoyed more of the trip than we hated. Stage Two involves the Broadening of Horizons.

Because it’s all very well sitting by the pool trying not to think about the horrific flight home, but the whole point of travel is to see different places and meet other people, right? So this time, the plan was Umbria rather than the Algarve. Queue-free, horizon-broadening culture in the morning.

Proper nosh (no menù turistico) at lunch.

Then (I’m not completely mad) swimming pool for the rest of the day. We would go out with three children who like watching TV, playing Minecraft and eating pizza, and come back with three children versed in cradles of civilisation, children who would know their Giotto from their Cimabue, children who would order cappelletti fatti in casa al tartufo nero over spag bol. Ideally, they would be the same children.

And it started well. With all the wisdom gained through bitter experience in Stage One, I’d booked a mid-morning flight. We’d got through security without any tears or embarrassing pram-folding failures. And we’d made it all the way to the furthest gate in the airport, down all those corridors and past the point where you’re thinking maybe

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it would be easier just to walk to Umbria, and boarded successfully.

Then, on the plane, I started explaining to the children why we were going to Umbria and how, on our last (child-free) visit, we’d spent a whole day at the Basilica of St Francis in Assisi. And I began reading bits of guidebook to them, too. ‘Gubbio is famous for its Eugubine Tables, which date from 300BC to 100BC,’ I trilled with pure Jackanory enthusiasm.

‘Boring,’ said the nine-year-old, who is losing his battle with early-onset teenager.

The six-year-old and two-year-old were even less polite - but it was only when we reached the villa that I realised the full scale of my mistake. It was simply too beautiful. An eleventh-century converted church with a pool. A terrace overlooking vineyards and distant hills. Big tellies.

Why, I could hear the children thinking, would you want to leave all this to look around some hill towns? The breakfast conversation went like this: ‘Right, we’re going to Spello.’ ‘Please can we stay here, dad?’ times three. ‘No. We are in Italy. We owe the last 600 years of European art and culture to this country. We’re not going to sit by the beautiful, heated pool.’ Eventually, I herded them into the car and we set off.

The moaning stopped after 15 minutes as we drove down towards Perugia and then left past Assisi. We parked at the bottom of Spello and walked to the top of it. This is a useful thing about hill-town culture. The culture is on hills. So you get the moaning hill climb out of the way early. You look at the frescoes. You glide back down.

And Spello’s frescoes are world-famous, I explained to deaf ears as we arrived at the Baglioni Chapel. They were painted in 1501

by Pinturicchio, a midget who also did some of the Sistine Chapel. For at least 30 seconds they stared at the frescoes. You might spend longer. Either way, it doesn’t matter. Beyond the stunning frescoes, Spello is a charming place to waste a morning. Its Fiat Uno-wide streets lead, maze-like, through a series of small squares with enough ice-cream vendors and cafes to render the zigzag climb painless.

I’d spent many internet hours tracking down Spello’s ‘local’ restaurant. I wanted

July 2016 World Traveller

Truffles. Guaranteed to transform the fussiest child into a gastronome somewhere off the beaten track where no-one spoke English or ate spaghetti bolognese. The answer was a place by a roundabout on the less picturesque outskirts of town.

Taking our seat among the chattering families of Spello, I asked for the house speciality. The waitress looked blank and, more importantly, actually quite offended that some tourists had found her establishment. Perfect.

She returned some time later with five plates of sliced beef in onion sauce. It was the only disappointing food we ate all week.

More importantly, our brave climb to the frescoes and our brave decline to the pork meant weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d earned an afternoon by the pool.

Day two. Secret weapon: truffles.

The most delicious food in the world.

Guaranteed to transform the fussiest child into a gastronome. Our villa manager knew a guy who knew a guy who went trufflehunting. He was an electrician called Andrea and he arrived early one morning with his excitable trainee truffle dog. To the kids, it was a giant treasure hunt. To me, it was a potential retirement plan.

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Destinations Umbria

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July 2016 World Traveller Opposite page, top to bottom: Cascata delle Marmore; Ferentillo in Terni, Umbria; Mare with new born foal in the early morning light. Inset: The ancient town of Assisi.

Move to Umbria, buy dog, train dog, find one-kilo truffle. By the end of the morning, it had become clear that the retirement plan was unviable. The best dogs cost thousands and thousands of euros. They take years to train and, even then, they may never make a good snuffler. The jury was still out on Andrea’s dog. While he was excellent at finding the truffles, he proved persistently unwilling to hand them over.

Who can blame him? He operated on a ‘one for you, one for me’ basis, which he thought reasonable. For Andrea, like most truffle-hunters, it was more of a hobby than a career.

We left the electrician and his greedy dog and drove up to Montone for a truffle feast.

No iPads, no complaining about foreign food. I could almost feel the horizons broadening as we ate. But my plan to visit Montone’s museum - ‘It has silverwork and vestments and paintings!’ - proved a step too far, with the nine-year-old upset because a thin cat with no tail was looking famished and I refused to feed it truffles. We went back to the villa for a swim.

Fiat Uno-wide streets lead, maze-like, through a series of small squares Day three. New resolve. ‘Today, children, we are going to Gubbio. Remember the Eugubine Tables?’ By now, it would be reasonable to expect some progress. Child A caught flicking through the coffee-table book on Perugino, for example. Child B asking, politely, for more fennel in the risotto. But no. The Eugubine Tables were a disaster. First, we couldn’t find them.

Then, when we did, the children were unimpressed. ‘These stone tablets are by far the most important documents of any of the Osco-Umbrian group of languages,’ I said. ‘Please stop climbing on them or I’ll put you in this iron cage that was once used to humiliate robbers.’

Secret weapon number two: market day. I gave the children some euros and released them into Gubbio’s street market.

They came back with prawns on sticks, 50 lollipops and a toy gun. So I released them again, this time with firmer guidance, and they returned with cured meat in buns, tomato bread and bananas for a picnic under the trees.

After that, there was no nagging for a premature return to the villa. We spent the afternoon exploring Gubbio’s Old Town, clambering up and down its wide stone staircases, catching rays on the stunning terraced square of the fourteenth-century Palazzo dei Consoli, arguing about which view of the valley below was the best.

I had saved Assisi – the best, the most Stage Two-ish, the most fraught with risk – until last, hoping that a week of gentle assimilation would give us a chance of enjoying the place, up to its neck in medieval churches and those Giotto frescoes. By the time we reached the basilica, we were having a family-wide argument about whether I could reasonably expect silence in the car while trying to negotiate a one-way system. Wife pointed out the depiction of St Francis’s stigmata in her best Horrible Histories manner. A monk shouted ‘Silenzio’. Everyone needed the loo. We left.

Assisi is the most touristy town in Umbria. It has the coach parties, tourists following umbrellas and endless trinket shops. But you need only to step a couple of streets off the main drag and it’s back to being its peaceful, sleepy self. That’s where we found lunch. Two alleys off the main drag. It was just us, two old men and the waitress. Children B and C had pizza. Child A joined us with a shared rustic chicken stew. I still think daily about just how good the stew was.

I would like to finish with a little conversation that took place on the return flight home. ‘That was a great trip, Dad.’ ‘What was your favourite bit?’ ‘It’s a close call between the church in Spello and the restaurant in Montone, although I’ve been reading more about those Eugubine Tables and I can now see why they’re so important.’

That conversation never happened. They were too busy playing Minecraft. I was too busy ordering a drink. A failure, then. But I’m looking forward to trying again next year, even if they’re not.

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Destinations Cuba

THE

TIME IS NOW

With Cuba having rekindled its relationship with the US, the island is about to open up to the world â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and that could spell an end to its unique character. Follow in the footsteps of Obama and get there quick, says Laura Goulden

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July 2016 World Traveller

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he best time to go to Cuba? As soon as possible. The gradual loosening of control on private businesses means you can now travel in more comfort than before, but the country’s new-found chumminess with America shows this tin-box time warp is heading for change.

Only recently, the two countries signed an agreement for 20 flights a day between Havana and the States. Everyone seems to be rushing to see the place, including the first US president to visit Cuba in almost 90 years.

Cuba is not your typical Caribbean island.

It’s big, so don’t try to do it all in two weeks, and be prepared for some long car journeys – it’s really the only way to get around. Plan ahead, ideally by at least three months. This is no longer a buy-your-ticket-and-wing-it destination. Prices are on the up, demand is outstripping supply – backpackers have been seen sleeping on the streets in towns such as Trinidad – and taxis and private transfers are already struggling to ship everyone where they want to go. So don’t expect everything to go seamlessly, but do expect it to be worth the bother.

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Destinations Cuba Opening pages: El Capitolio.

Right: Havana Vieja district.

Day 1-3

HAVANA You could spend a week in Cuba’s beautifully shabby capital. You don’t have time for that, but give yourself at least three nights. If you don’t have a transfer laid on by your tour operator, a taxi from Havana airport into town takes half an hour and should cost about 20CUC (USD20, the CUC is like for like with the US dollar). The country has two currencies, the Cuban convertible peso (CUC) and the Cuban peso (CUP); tourists need the former for everything except street food and local buses. You can’t change money before you go, so take clean, untorn sterling or euros – not US dollars – to swap in banks or cadecas (exchange booths).

You’ll need to keep plenty of cash on you: ATMs are scarce outside the main cities and cards are rarely accepted.

Most of Havana’s hotels are drab and soulless, and couldn’t be less like the city they inhabit. Give them a miss and borrow a local’s place instead – specifically, the art dealer Ydalgo Martinez’s luxurious antiques-filled pad, Cañaveral House, 10 minutes from the old town.

Your first night out should encompass the best of old Cuba, so book a couple of weeks in advance to secure a table at a swish paladar (a restaurant in someone’s home). At La Guarida, you’ll dine on papaya lasagne in a crumbling mansion. There’s a roof terrace for after-dinner drinks, which is about as much as you’ll manage tonight.

Jet lag will have you up early on day two, so make the most of the cool and quiet by heading straight into the old town (it’ll be heaving after 11am), where trees soar out of beautifully decayed rooftops. Don’t miss the art-deco 1930s Bacardi building (go inside – the interior is smothered in multicoloured 46

marble) and the cheery blue-and-yellow arches of Plaza Vieja.

Rest your legs in the afternoon with a tour in a vintage Cadillac. Not all guides are created equal: when booking one through your hotel or tour operator, ask for someone who specialises in history or architecture and you’re likely to get more information for your money – the well-known guides Juan Carlos Toledo Martinez and Pedro Perez are safe bets.

Tonight, it’s the turn of new Cuba at Fabrica de Arte Cubano, a converted warehouse in the up-and-coming Vedado district. It’s a gallery by day and a music venue by night, and the party won’t end until well into the next day.

Save some time for getting lost – you can do this on day three, when you’ve got your bearings. This is a town full of surprises, and you don’t generally find those with your nose in a map. Use the Capitol building and Plaza de la Revolucion as start and end points and wind through gritty Centro, the part of town where people actually live.

Wind up day three watching the Cuban National Ballet. Buy tickets as soon as you arrive in town from the box office at the Gran Teatro de la Habana (Paseo del Prado) or the Teatro Nacional de Cuba (Plaza de la Revolucion).

End your last night in Havana on the Malecon, the esplanade where city meets sea, with a daiquiri on the lawn at the Hotel Nacional, where Frank Sinatra once crooned and the mobsters Lucky Luciano and Meyer Lansky hosted the 1946 Havana Conference between the Cosa Nostra and the US mafia.

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Destinations Cuba Clockwise from left: Views over Trinidad; Cuban flags; Coloured buildings in Havana; A vintage car in Cuba; Cycling past Teatro Payret.

Day 4

Viñales Your private transfer should arrive nice and early, as you’ve only got time for 24 hours in the green land of Viñales. It’s just a two-and-a-half hour drive from Havana, but a pre-booked transfer is best, as it will have air-con, a perk that shouldn’t be underestimated. Car hire is a gamble (by the time you get to the south of the island, road signs will be non-existent), taxis can be unreliable and buses take up to twice as long.

Viñales is tobacco country and the perfect antidote to busy Havana. Watch oxen tugging ploughs and cigars being rolled by hand; go, perhaps, for a hike or a horse ride (horseridinginvinales. com) and generally breathe out a little.

Sleep somewhere with rolling views, such as Casa Villa Palmarito, which does delicious farm-fresh dinners for USD6.

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July 2016 World Traveller

The Teatro Tomas Terry was built at the end of the nineteenth century, when excess wasn’t an issue

Day 5-7

TRiNiDAD It’s a seven-hour drive from Viñales to Trinidad, so brace yourself. En route you’ll pass almost as many horses and carts as cars, and plenty of posters splashed with revolutionary slogans, such as Socialismo o muerte. An hour before you reach Trinidad, you’ll hit the seaside town of Cienfuegos.

Pause to nose around the Teatro Tomas Terry, which was built at the end of the nineteenth century when excess wasn’t an issue. Once inside, marvel at the Carrara marble, gold leaf, frescoes and beautifully carved wooden seating.

Trinidad is Cuba’s best-preserved city and you’ll need two nights. This pile of tuttifrutti houses and fondant-fancy churches was built from sugar money, and has been kept in mint condition while Havana crumbled. To fully absorb the old-town atmosphere, book a couple of nights in a

casa particular (a room in a private home): the modern ranch-style La Casona, with its pool and outdoor restaurant; or Hostal Elda y Roberto, where rooms are set around a courtyard and your hosts span three generations of the same family.

Stop at the antiques-stuffed Museo Romantico, in a mansion near Plaza Mayor, to see what life was like as a sugar baron.

Generally, though, aimless wandering is the thing to do here. Bad dinners are commonplace, but even if you’re not staying, eat the lobster at La Casona. Later, let a local teach you to salsa on the steps at the Casa de la Musica (near Plaza Mayor; it’s loud and busy, so you won’t miss it).

Spend your second day on the lovely sugary stretch of Playa Ancon (twenty minutes away; USD12 in a taxi). You’ve been in Cuba a week and deserve a beach day.

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Destinations Cuba

Day 8

CAMAGUEY This stop breaks up another epic drive into a three- to four-hour chunk. Camaguey is bigger, less touristy and more lived-in than Trinidad. The town planner’s brief was primarily to confuse invading pirates, which means you’ll get lost in Camaguey’s tangle of streets, but you can explore safe in the knowledge that, at the end of every intriguing alleyway, you’ll emerge into a grand Spanish square with the most elaborate of churches.

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July 2016 World Traveller Clockwise from left: Cienfuegos Province; Sunrise on the Atlantic Ocean coast; Inside a government store; Menu in Camaguey Province; Man with strings of garlic.

Day 9-10

siErrA MAEstrA If you’re making your own way around, you’re going to need a 4x4 taxi today.

Realistically, you’ll probably persuade a bloke in a Lada to take you as far as Bayamo, the capital of hilly Granma province, then you can switch to a Jeep from there. High up in the Sierra Maestra mountains is where Fidel Castro’s army lived while he plotted the revolution. You can hike to his jungle village: the hospital, radio station and Castro’s hut, complete with escape hatch, all remain intact.

You’re only allowed to explore with a guide. Find yours at Villa Santo Domingo, which will also be your home for the evening. Skip dinner here; walk up the hill and pay just a few dollars for a home-cooked meal at Alexy’s Paladar instead.

Day 11-14

bArACoA Cuba’s beaches are no secret, but the allinclusives that line the shores of Varadero and Cayo Guillermo are very busy and not very Cuban. Six hours from Granma, near the island’s southern tip, Baracoa has the Caribbean sands you came for, but instead of an all-you-can-eat buffet, you get locals offering you freshly caught lobster for lunch. There’s only one place to stay on the beach and that’s the sleepy, chalet-style Villa Maguana.

You’ll need at least three nights here to stretch out after all that driving, but also to allow enough time for charming Baracoa town, with its Son band sing-alongs and cafes serving thick hot chocolate (they grow cocoa down here). You’ll also want a day in nearby Alejandro de Humboldt National

Park, where there are waterfalls to jump off and the offer of creole river shrimp at what’s seemingly the only home for miles (you’ll pass it on the way into the park).

Again, you’ll need a guide here – arrange one through the hotel.

You’re flying back to Havana tomorrow morning and you’ll need one more night in the capital to allow enough of a cushion to make sure you don’t miss your flight home – and also to raise a last Cuba libre to a country on the brink.

There are a host of historic hotels in which to stay whilst in Cuba: Paradisus Varadero Hotel, Blau Colonial Hotel, and the Nacional De Cuba Hotel (in Havana), for example.

Explore the island’s array of luxury hospitality options at dnatatravel.com 51

Destinations Prague

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Double

July 2016 World Traveller

Bustling or tranquil? Thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s two sides to every story and the same applies to Prague, which is a beauty either way, discovers Adrian Tierney-Jones

CZeCH

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Destinations Prague Opening page: The Dancing House. Clockwise from left: Charles Bridge; Historic buildings; A Prague street scene; Old Town Square, Cent Bohemia.

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t’s a breezy morning in the Czech capital as sunshine, a keen wind and a blast of street-sounds come together in their own composition. Sunlight pierces the deep canyon of Panská Street in New Town, the wind delivering a chilly counterpoint.

There’s a slap of car tyres on the cobblestone road, a squeal of tram brakes around a corner… Here, in its historical heart, the most beautiful and lovestruck city in Europe is singing a seductive song.

A young woman, camera aloft, takes a snap of a bank. Not any old bank, but an Imperial-style building from the late nineteenth century, as artistic as it is architectural, all elegant curves and frills.

Gothic, Art Nouveau, Imperial, Baroque, Renaissance… The city is a canvas on which many centuries have made their mark and laid their colours. Is it any wonder both first-timers and veteran visitors are head-over-heels in love with the place?

From Panská, in the warm air, I ambled towards the River Vltava, to Charles Bridge – perhaps Prague’s most perfect postcard, with its loping old fairy-tale arches – and on to the famous Powder Tower, the fifteenth-century landmark with the thorny pinnacles… And there the spell was broken.

A waiting Bentley had an advert for a tacky-sounding erotic show emblazoned along one flank. The seductive slogan: ‘Falling in love is the only thing you risk.’

Outside a nearby Thai massage parlour, a man in an Aladdin outfit was handing out leaflets. Opposite, as a couple smiled for a selfie beside a chocolate shop, the owner leapt out and photo-bombed their snap before dragging them inside.

Things hit rock-bottom when I spotted two women in the window of a beauty salon, their feet in a transparent tank of water, as tiny fish nibbled.

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There’s the rub. You’ve got Prague, and you’ve got Prague. Just when the historic city has you in its arms, along come hordes of high-spirited weekenders – chattering, list-ticking and camera-clicking. What’s surprising is how the two manage to overlap. I can’t think of any postCommunist Euro-capital that so draws the stag, hen and low-cost airline crowds, while managing to retain such fine-boned beauty.

I love its diverse architecture, and even find the odd splat of Communist Functionalism a palate-refresher. I love the way it’s so easy to explore on foot, the way that it’s still a place where people live, where they walk their dogs. And I particularly love the city in autumn, when the leaves on the trees lining the river have turned the colour of fire, and every evening brings the prospect of

You can find unexpected beauty everywhere in Prague gorging on helpings of dumplings and roast meat in a timehonoured pub, helped down by some Czech hops.

The real beauty of Prague is that, with a little steer, you can enjoy both sides – touristic and tranquil – easily, because the two co-exist so closely it’s a cinch to skip back and forth between them. I saw the light on an evening out in the Nusle district, south of the city centre. I was busy lamenting the mass tourism to a friend, Evan Rail, who’d invited me to drinks in a bar called Zlý Casy. ‘You can find unexpected beauty everywhere in Prague – even in the most touristy areas,’ he said, with a sip of his ale.

‘You can take that street instead of this one and you will always find something

July 2016 World Traveller

marvellous,’ he said. ‘You might be wandering around the market at Havelská, say, drowning in souvenirs and junk, but turn a sidestreet and you’re in the tiny lane V Kotcích, full of worn cobbles and blissfully free of tourists.’

Before leaving, he suggested I check out U Pinkasů, a locals’ bar in New Town. There, amid the bustle and noise of Prague citizens, I got chatting with expat singer-songwriter Jamie Marshall.

He echoed Evan: ‘There’s a surprise around many a corner. I’ve lived here 10 years now and still see new features in buildings that I’ve walked past dozens of times.’ As I crossed the river to Lesser Town next day, sightseers surged around me like a crowd leaving a football match, but, sure enough, the moment I turned off into a side street the hubbub faded away. As I walked past the peculiarly named Church of Our Lady under the Chain (apparently named after a chain that used to span the Vltava), it was quiet enough for me to hear a woman within singing a classical aria to herself.

I stopped and listened while watching a Boxer dog investigate a small pile of loose

stones. It was so engrossed that whenit looked up it was clearly flummoxed that its owner had disappeared. A sharp whistle sent the dog running and brought me out of my reverie. On I trotted, too.

The day after, again I hit pay dirt by just following my nose. Prague is reputedly full of ghosts – and by chance I found four of them. Outside the Hotel Yasmin on Politických Vězňů (Political Prisoners Street), a quartet of brass plaques lies embedded in the pavement. Each bears a name and tells the story of the person: they recall members of the Czech Resistance, all from the same family, who lived where Hotel Yasmin now welcomes guests and who’d been deported to Terezín concentration camp in 1941 (similar plaques dotted about the city recall other victims). I stood and pondered: Kity Kopecká, Zuzana Kopecká, Pavel A Kopecký and Mariana Kopecká – four more ghostly presences in the city.

With their names still resonant in my mind, I strolled across Wenceslas Square and dived into an intriguing passageway: Lucerna Palace turned out to be a covered 55

Destinations Prague

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July 2016 World Traveller Left: A morning sunrise view of Charles Bridge.

Art Nouveau arcade of beguiling shops and restaurants. What really caught my eye, though, in the marbled atrium, was a sculpture of King Wenceslas on an upsidedown horse, a complete reversal of the famous one on the Square outside. The creator of this satirical artwork, David Cerný, has never explained the actual meaning, but many have seen it as a political comment on the former (controversial) president Václav Klaus.

As I immersed myself in hidden Prague, I began to relish the sense of escape, raking myself back from the bustling crowds on a journey without maps, my thoughts my sole travel companion.

Lunch found me at the Strahev brewpub, close to Prague Castle. Hoping for some insider information for a contemplative stroll, I asked the barman if there were any quiet places nearby. His answer was succinct and decisive: ‘Petřín’. He meant the wooded hill of Petřín, with its green slopes

I relished the sense of escape, my thoughts my sole companion rolling down to the river from just below the pub. I followed his advice. Petřín is a peaceful place, yet it is a vital link to the city. Compared with the hive-like character that enveloped nearby St Vitus Cathedral, its leaf-strewn paths gave me a sense of individuality and liberty. Not that I was alone – as I walked through the gardens, a young couple were embracing passionately on a bench.

With just a day left, I took a Metro train to the northern Prague suburb of Kobylisy.

I had never visited this quarter of the city before. Again, it was a whim, inspired by a mention in a leaflet of Dáblice Grove – a site of remembrance with woodland walks.

A short bus journey to the Grove revealed trees burning in autumnal russet and tangerine, while birdsong trilled from the branches above.

The city was a distant background hum, but not enough to disturb the soothing calmness of the place. I paid my respects at a former Austro-Hungarian army shooting range, where the Germans had massacred

hundreds after the assassination of the high-ranking Nazi Reinhard Heydrich, one of the key architects of the Holocaust. Then I sat on a bench, watching a chaffinch swoop alongside a falling leaf – it looked as if it was trying to catch it. Runners passed at regular intervals, while a noisy crocodile of children out on a nature walk emerged from one of the many paths that criss-crossed the woodland.

But otherwise, it was just peace, perfect peace, in this corner of hidden Prague, randomly encountered. Opposite Kobylisy Metro station, I noticed a small Farmers’ Market, where smoked meat, hot drinks, organic vegetables, cheese, bread and other assortments were being sold from mockrustic wooden cabins. I sat at a table and nursed an espresso, surveying the serene scene as a stout mutt sat patiently in front of one of the stallholders, hoping for a treat.

The man threw down a slice of salami.

Elsewhere, office workers on their lunch break, mums with kids, and those with time to burn drifted about. Back in the city centre with some hours to kill, I hung around Republic Square, where it seemed that the two different worlds of Prague occupied the same space – one clinically commercial, the other more traditional.

A young Segway tour operator, clientless and bored, revolved around his collection of machines, while directly opposite, the regular market was in full swing. The ringing chime of a blacksmith’s hammer on an anvil sounded like a regular peal of bells.

I stood at a stand, thinking about the pleasures of happening upon hidden Prague: the discovery of the nameplates in the pavement, the small Farmers’ Market and the calm of both Petřín and Dáblice Grove.

Somehow, finding them had enabled me to enjoy the more commonplace sites: Charles Bridge and the Castle – and not mind the crowds. I knew there was a lot more to be discovered, which would take time. I would have to come back again and again. No hardship there.

Come to think of it, there was still an hour or so to go before I had to head for the airport. I finished my hops and, in the thick of the tourists, went off looking for what lay under their noses, or round the corner: wonderful, whimsical, hidden Prague.

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July 2016 World Traveller

Weekends

Two days is still plenty of time to travel

61 Oman Special:

Where to stay, what to see, and what to do in the spectacular Sultanate 76 One Weekend For All: Rome 78 Great Escapes: A Splash of Summer 80 Weekend at the Wild Wadi 82 48-Hour Foodie: Vienna 83 Staycations 90 Reader Offers

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July 2016 World Traveller Promotion

where to stay

Oman is home to some of the most uniquely wonderful hotels in the Middle East. Whether travelling as a family or as a couple seeking a romantic escape, the Sultanate has a wealth of great options

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man’s temperate mountains and verdant Salalah region, such a beautiful anomaly in the GCC during Khareef season (from the end of this month until early September), have long made Oman a choice escape during the hot summer months. Each will welcome an Anantara resort in the coming months, with Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar the first to open 2,000 metres above sea level on the rim of a grand canyon. It will be the highest five-star resort in the Middle East, and offer guests unrivalled and spectacular vistas, the choice of private pool villas, a spa with hammam, three restaurants, kids’ and teens’ clubs and – to really take advantage of its lofty position – a star-gazing platform. It promises to be a very special and spectacular resort.

Soon after, Salalah welcomes the eagerly awaited al Baleed resort salalah by anantara. Billed as the first luxury villa resort of its kind in Salalah, a private 250m beach is one of the main pulls here.

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Weekends Oman Opening page: The Chedi Muscat. Right: Shangri-La Bar al Jissah Resort & Spa. Next page, clockwise from top left: Grand Millennium Muscat; Grand Hyatt Muscat; Al Bustan Palace, A Ritz-Carlton Hotel: Hilton Salalah Resort.

3 must-dine in restaurants

If you’re staying in Muscat it would be remiss to not have at least one dinner at the restaurant within The Chedi Muscat. Here, amidst impeccably stylish surrounds, four open kitchens serve up contemporary, Asian, Middle Eastern and Indian flavours, so you’ll never be short of options.

However, Muscat is also one of those places where the best dining options aren’t confined to hotels. That’s true of Bait al Luban, where you can enjoy good value and well prepared traditional Omani fare. And of slider station, which is a great family option for its neverfail burgers.

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Al Baleed has 96 villas, 88 of which boast private pools, complementing 40 garden- or sea-facing rooms. The spa will feature the region’s first hammam and razul treatment rooms, while kids’ and teens’ clubs, three restaurants, myriad watersports and a diving centre are among the highlights. The resort is ideally located to aid those keen to immerse themselves in Oman’s rich heritage – within walking distance of Al Baleed Archaeological Park visitors can explore a UNESCO World Heritage Site of citadel and grand mosque ruins.

Another new opening – this one perfect for shoppers – is Grand Millennium Muscat.

It offers its guests direct access to Muscat Grand Mall and the choice of a spacious and luxuriously appointed room, suite or whole apartment (perfect for when you return with a few too many shopping bags). There’s even an in-house spa to remedy those aching feet, while an Executive Lounge serves up complimentary treats throughout the day to partner panoramic views of the city.

While those openings generate the buzz, a perennial favourite remains as good as ever – the Chedi Muscat. Its beachside location, opulent design, acres of palmlined gardens and tranquil ponds lends an indulgent air to this low-rise complex,

never more charming than when candlelit at night. Ever impressive facilities here include two swimming pools, one adults’ only and the other a huge 103-metres, and what is the largest, and best, spa in Muscat. Don’t leave without sampling at least one treatment. the Grand hyatt Muscat is also popular, not least due to the lazy river that winds its way around the beachside pool area. Direct access to the beach and an additional toddlers’ splash pool makes this luxury abode a top tip for families.

Of all the hotel’s many splendid rooms and suites, we recommend booking one belonging to the Grand Club. Not only will this afford you fine views of the Hajar Mountains, but you’ll also gain all-day access to the Grand Club Lounge, where complimentary evening cocktails and hors d’oeuvres are served. It’s a fine way to prepare for dinner at Tuscany, the hotel’s award-winning Italian restaurant.

The decadent al Bustan Palace, a ritz Carlton hotel, is the grand dame of Muscat hotels – you’ll know this from the moment you step into the breathtaking domed lobby. Surrounded by dramatic mountains, the extensive gardens here are dotted with relaxation pools and the pièce de résistance comes in the form of

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Weekends Oman

the large infinity pool, complete with palm tree islands. The spa here, operated by Six Senses, is a real gem, while all rooms and suites come with a view – either of the mountains, sea, lagoon, or the perfectlymanicured gardens.

Set against a stunning mountain backdrop with the Gulf of Oman basking beside, shangri-La Bar al Jissah resort and spa is an Omani hospitality landmark.

Located fifteen minutes from Muscat, there are three properties within this hotel complex and each has its own unique charm, whilst delivering high levels of luxury. Al Waha is the oasis: a dedicated family hotel with Dhofari architecture, child-friendly amenities, multiple swimming pools and 64

swaying date palms. Al Bandar, meanwhile, is inspired by a Muscat town of old, replete with an array of sea-facing guest rooms that house ornate balconies. The jewel in the crown, though, is undoubtedly Al Husn, an adults-only ‘palace’, where artwork and opulence abounds. Together, the trio (along with a plethora of dining options) ensure there is a fascinating bay-side property to meet the needs of every guest.

Back in Salalah, the beautiful salalah rotana resort is a renowned summer hotspot. Low-rise and carved from desert rock, the Oman-inspired rooms and suites here are dotted about lagoons and manmade canals, adding to the overall feeling of serenity. Visiting parents will

love the option of the 2-Bedroom Family Suite, located mere steps from the pool, while kids will marvel at the activity-rich Flipper’s Kids’ Club. Meanwhile, couples heading here outside of Khareef season can indulge themselves by booking a memorable romantic dinner – the menu is customised to suit your tastes, before each delectable dish is served to you on the beach, the waves lapping gently at the shore, by your own private butler.

Also here, aside the ocean and affording fine views of the Dhofar mountain range, is the brilliant hilton salalah resort.

Based on traditional Omani architecture, the resort offers abundant amenities for all to enjoy, from scuba divers keen to seek

Strategically located in the vicinity of Muscat Grand Mall, Grand Millennium Muscat Hotel is bound to take you to the HIGHPOINT OF LIFE. Experience the zenith of delight in luxuriously designed rooms and spacious suites. Treat your appetite and refresh your mind at our Seafood Restaurant and rejuvenating spa. Apart, when it comes to business, our well-appointed conference rooms redefine your success with pleasure. Discover the height of luxury with the abundance of heartwarming amenities. Step in.

Weekends Oman Clockwise from right: Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar; Salalah Rotana Resort; Shangri-La Bar al Jissah Resort & Spa; Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara.

out underwater treasures, to gastronomes looking for a weekend of indulgence. It’s also a great place for all the family, with a wonderful pool, Kids’ Club and playground – kids will particularly like the twisting slide which slips into the pool. Our tip for a night to remember here starts with dinner at Palm Grove, where you’ll share a flavoursome chateaubriand, before enjoying post-dinner drinks at Whispers and the last hours of your evening sat on the balcony of your room, soaking up the

The Chedi Muscat is a perennial favourite and remains as good as its always been sound of the waves rolling in below. If you love luxury but want to experience a more isolated Oman, the Desert Nights Camp could be the answer. It’s set in the Wahiba Sands, with 30 gorgeous Bedouin-style tents offering all the comfort you could wish for under linen canopies. Whilst there you can take a camel ride, whiten your knuckles while dune bashing, or unwind to the gentle rhythms of Arabian oud music.

For somewhere else a little different, head to Ras Al Hadd. Up to 20,000 turtles lay their eggs on the beach at Ras al-Jinz here each year, and by way of conserving this fascinating nesting process a reserve was built back in 1996. ras al Jinz turtle reserve now accommodates visitors keen to witness the wonderful sight for themselves, with functional, well-equipped rooms located in the Reserve’s main building, and a further 12 permanent, airconditioned tents located closer to the sea.

Organised evening and dawn tours take guests to watch the turtles, which include the endangered Green Turtle.

Lastly, no guide to accommodation in Oman would be complete without mentioning six senses Zighy Bay, which you’ll find nestled away on the beautiful Musandam Peninsula, It’s a village-style complex of stone villas, each with private pools, flanked by mountains on one side and a glorious stretch of nearly always empty beach on the other. James Bond wannabes will be intrigued to learn that you can enter the resort via paraglide or speedboat, if the drive up and over the mountain isn’t for you.

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July 2016 World Traveller Promotion

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Weekends Oman Clockwise from right.

Crowne Plaza Muscat; Holiday Inn Muscat Al Seeb; InterContinental Muscat; Crowne Plaza Muscat; Holiday Inn Muscat Al Seeb; InterContinental Muscat.

soMethING For eVeryoNe InterContinental Hotels Group offers a whole range of superb hotels across Oman, making it easy to find somewhere to suit your specific needs.

The only difficulty arises from having to decide between them all. To help you on your way, here’s our favourite three…

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hen exploring new horizons, peace of mind can be invoked with a familiar name. The holiday Inn Muscat al seeb is one such comforting thought; it’s a familyfriendly hotel in a convenient location (just three minutes from City Center, one of Oman’s main shopping malls), with all of the signature brand touches and attentive service that makes for a pleasant stay.

Rooms are contemporary yet cosy – the Two Bedroom Apartment caught our eye with its chocolate-box tones and elements of comfort – and the hotel is replete with a host of amenities. An extensive on-site health and fitness centre will please those keen to keep fit while away, and there’s an outdoor pool in which to take a cooling dip (or clock up the lengths).

Omede and Halwa Lounge, meanwhile, form the restaurant/café tandem where guests can embark on a culinary journey or simply sip on a frothy coffee while working on their list of Muscat must-dos. This is a hotel that’s ideal for a short break.

A family-friendly spot that’s less than a 15-minute walk from the brilliant Royal Opera House – and the same driving time from Muscat International Airport – the InterContinental Muscat is one of the city’s most popular hotels. This palmfringed resort lies nestled between Al Hajar

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Mountains and the Sultanate’s gorgeous coastline, guaranteeing memorable views no matter which side of the hotel you stay on. Lose yourself in the 35-acres of lush gardens and you’ll be sure to come across the Palm Beach Club, where two swimming pools, floodlit tennis courts and a fullyequipped gym make it ideal for anyone seeking an active stay. If, on the other hand, it’s relaxation you’re after, private access to Muscat’s favourite stretch of seafront is perfect for a day of sun worship while the first-class spa has a great selection of pampering treatments on offer. And don’t worry about the little ones, they’ll be kept entertained in the children’s playground and games room.

The ever-popular Trader-Vic’s is a great choice when it comes to dining, with Hawaiian, Tahitian and Polynesian dishes on the menu or, if you fancy eating al fresco, head to Tomato for an array of Mediterranean options. Don’t miss the legendary breakfasts in Musandam Café and head to lively Al Ghazal in the evening for all the comforts of a traditional English tavern. Big on amenities, the Intercontinental Muscat makes for a fantastic family-friendly escape.

Meanwhile, from its unique vantage point atop a cliff from where it looks over the glistening Gulf of Oman, Crowne Plaza

July 2016 World Traveller Promotion

Muscat stands proud as one of the city’s most beloved hotels. Just 20-minutes drive from Muscat International Airport, and only ten minutes from the historic port of Muttrah and its famous souk, where you can haggle for souvenirs like frankincense and the traditional Omani khanjar, this is the perfect base from which to enjoy a weekend to remember.

Not only is the hotel home to a super-sized pool, set within 10 acres of lush landscaped gardens, but it also boasts its own stretch of private beach – perfect for relaxing – and a covered children’s paddling pool and play area, making it ideal for visiting families who’ll also love the hotel’s well-appointed Family Rooms.

Dining wise, the hotel’s abundant offering means you won’t have to venture beyond its welcoming confines to enjoy fine fare.

Highlights include Shiraz, Oman’s only Persian restaurant where authenticity runs from the Persian chefs right through to the delectable dishes. Come Prima is where you can indulge in perfectly prepared Italian fare, from hearty pasta dishes through to creamy, flavoursome risottos, while for a side helping of fabulous mountain and sea views with your main course, book dinner at The Edge. The perfect way to a round off a wonderful stay in magical Muscat.

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Weekends Oman

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July 2016 World Traveller Promotion

what to Do

Oman is abundant with natural resources, culture and heritage.

Immerse yourself in the country’s diverse offerings during your stay

T

here is ample to entertain you in Muscat – much of it based in the great outdoors – but every trip here should include time spent at the royal opera house Muscat. A true icon of the country and the GCC’s home of musical arts and culture, a whole host of incredible events are staged here, from operatic performances of global renown to ballet, musicals, jazz and all. There’s also an emphasis placed on education, and outside of performances members of the

local community are invited to scheduled events to learn of the important role that the arts, music and culture plays in their lives. Before the end of this year The Royal Opera House Muscat will play host to an operatic performance of Romeo and Juliet

by Charles Gounod, performed by Opéra de Monte-Carlo, Richard Wagner’s Lohengrin, Mozart’s Don Giovanni, performed by Opéra de Lyon, and Anna Karenina, performed by the Elfman Ballet of St. Petersburg.

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Weekends Oman Previous page: The Royal Opera House Muscat.

Right: An Omani surveys the country’s mountainous region.

Next page, clockwise from top left: Tomb of Bibi Maryam at Qalhat; Snorkelling above a turtle; Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque; An Omani relaxes; Dhofar region during Khareef season; An oryx.

A

trip to the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque is a must for its design magnificence. Constructed using 300,000 tonnes of Indian sandstone, the stunning architecture will leave you mesmerised from the minute you lay eyes on it. The main prayer hall holds 6,500 worshippers, while an eight-tonne chandelier glittering with 24-carat gold lights the space.

Its magnificent central dome rises 50m into the sky, with floors that don a hand woven 21-tonne carpet – the second largest in the world. Tick off this landmark with a guided Gulf Ventures tour (gulfventures.com, +971 4 404 5880).

With Oman being one of the most popular diving destinations in the region – it offers diverse marine life, islands, bays and caves - it is definitely worth spending a day diving in areas around the capital such as al Khayran, al Fahil Island, Dimaniyat Islands, al Makbara Bay (old Muscat), in addition to al Jissah beach. Each of these contains multiple dive sites, each with a distinct environment.

Still in the water, Gulf Ventures offers dolphin and whale watching half-day city tours, while for windsurfing, don’t look past Masirah Island where waves often measure five to six feet.

The country’s varied terrain makes it ideal for mountain biking. Meander backcountry trails and take in the stunning landscape as you ride through wadis and rocky grounds. snake Canyon is a great place for climbers: it’s a narrow gorge cutting through the steep Hajar Mountains, with some steep inclines and jumping necessary; book a guide to help you navigate this one (alternatively, high wire across it using one of the many zip lines).

Those who enjoy caving can hotfoot to al hoota Cave, a two million-year-old space at the foot of the Hajar Mountains accessed by train where you will find brightly lit caverns, rock formations and an awe-inspiring underground lake. You can also visit Majlis al Jinn Cave or Salma Plateau, one of the largest underground

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caves in the world. Access to the 50-millionyear-old cave is tough – you trek for five hours through rugged terrain then descend via rope – but it’s worth it.

If that all sounds a bit too active for your taste, how about a leisurely round of golf? The 18-hole, PGA-certified course at Muscat hills Golf & Country Club is backed by views of the Hajar Mountains.

A tough 18th hole here – dotted with bunkers and flanked on the right by water – means you’ll be in need of a drink by the time you pull up a chair in the 19th.

Running adjacent to Oman’s coastline, the testing championship links-style course at Almouj Golf is the work of the legendary Greg Norman. It’s a course peppered with bunkers, natural dunes and water hazards you’ll have to avoid to score well, but such is the abundant beauty of your surrounds – mountains, ocean, beach – you won’t mind the odd bogey.

Oman is home to a plethora of natural and ancient wonders, so sightseeing is an absolute must. tawi ateer sinkhole is on such natural wonder: a 975,000 cubic metre sinkhole in Dhofar, the views it offers are astonishing – just be careful when you lean over to see the blue water lying at the bottom. Beat the heat and cool down with a dip in ath thawarah hot springs that gush all year round. Gulf Ventures offers half-day tours to wadi ad Dayqah, where you can admire around 120 scenic wadis that flow year-round. You can also discover the al Dakhiliya region, and Fanja, located 25km away from Muscat, boasting natural landscapes and cultural heritage. Civilisation here dates back to 5,000 years ago, and views on offer are a mix of traditional houses, towers, forts, castles, and recently built landmarks. The tour includes a visit to the ancient fort of Nakhal, followed by hot springs and a trip to areas boasting some of the best dates grown in the country.

Fort sightseeing should be part of the itinerary too. Pack in a visit to the Nizwa Fort built in the mid seventeenth-century.

July 2016 World Traveller Promotion

3 must-take tours

See the best of Muscat via Gulf Ventures’ half-day tour, which takes in the Grand Mosque, Bait al Zubair Museum, Mutrah Souq and the official residence of His Majesty Sultan Qaboos. You can swim in fresh water pools on a 45-minute trek through the beautiful Wadi Shab – it’s flanked by aquamarine pools and waterfalls – as part of Gulf Ventures’ full-day tour from Muscat. Or, if time allows, take two days to take in everything from the green jewel that is Jabal Akhdar, to the red and white dunes of Wahiba Sands and Oman’s only surviving dhow factory as part of Gulf Ventures’ overnight tour, which also includes a stay at the Sur Beach Hotel (gulfventures.com, +971 4 404 5880).

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Weekends Oman

It is one of the country’s oldest, nestled in the A’Dakhiliyah region, and took 12 years to construct. Its shape is unusual in that it’s round and there are seven wells.

The fort was once occupied by Sultan Bin Saif Al Y’aribi, the imam responsible for driving the Portuguese out of Oman. Not far off is the Bahle Fort, which houses a souq and mosque. This landmark is a listed World Heritage Site having been built in third millennium BC. Over in Al Batinah region, al hazm Castle is an Islamic design masterpiece, as its ceiling is entirely supported by columns. It would have made a superb defensive stronghold, with three-metre thick walls numerous cannon openings and mammoth wooden doors.

Oman has long been hailed for its frankincense trade and apart from trailing the Frankincense route you can discover the manufacturing process by stopping in at the aptly named Frankincense Land Museum. Set at the crossroads of an ancient traderoute, the Bat tombs also make for a fascinating excursion. Dating back to the third century BC and located east of Ibri, they comprise a collection of graves built in various styles denoting how many bodies were buried there. The most notable is the quirky beehive structure, which housed between two to five tombs.

The ruined Bronze Age city of Qalhat was Oman’s first capital before the advent of Islam, and here you can now spot remains including Bibi Mariam’s shrine, built to honour a woman thought to have built a mosque and possibly been the governor of Qalhat during King Hormuz’s reign. History buffs can tour the lush valleys, villages, and prairies planted with wheat on the way to Jabal hareem Fossils, located 1,600m above sea level in Wilayt Khasab. Fossil marine life showcasing fish and shells dates back to more than 250 million years ago, when the region was once underwater.

Dhofar’s Khawr ruri, a World Heritage-listed lagoon that contains prehistoric ruins and a port often referred to in ancient Greek and Arabic texts comes in highly recommended too. The nearby Khawr Al Baleed is also listed due to its archaeological, historical and natural significance.

Jabal shams (Sun Mountain) boasts the Arabian Peninsula’s highest peak, standing 3,004m above sea level. It was given its name because its height makes it the first and last place to see the sun each day. an Nakhr Balcony, a deep ravine that divides two parts of the mountain, makes for one of the most spectacular vistas you’ll have the pleasure of witnessing in Oman. Guesthouses are conveniently dotted around the mountain for those who don’t want to climb it in one go. Another stunning natural wonder accessible by 4x4 is al Jabal al akhdar (Green Mountain).

Though smaller than Jabal Shams, it measures in at 2,980m above the sea, its 74

almost Mediterranean climate is what it’s best know for: temperatures can drop to below zero Celsius during the winter and snow is not unheard of, although it warms up to around 22 degrees come summertime.

Covering an area of 220sq.km. the acacia woodland at al saleel National Park in the Sharqiyah Region of Oman provides a welcome habitat for gazelles, Gordon’s wildcat and wolves, as well as birds. If you can slip in time for the oman Botanic Gardens, do so to view the country’s 1,200plus species of plants, 80 of which cannot be found anywhere else in the world.

A visit to Salalah during Khareef season (from the end of this month until early September) is something every GCC resident should undertake. This area of Oman catches the tail end of India’s monsoons, which makes for lush greenery and turns the city into a haven for wildlife and nature, with mammals such as the Arabian leopard, hyenas, gazelles, and birds including flamingos and storks, amongst many others that come out to play. It also averages a beautiful 26 degrees. Visit Salalah this month and you’ll be there for the salalah tourism Festival, which highlights Oman’s national heritage. Tuck into local delights, listen to music, and watch traditional performances.

Lastly, July is also peak time to turtle watch at ras al Jinz. Observe the magical spectacle of females coming ashore and laying their eggs at night. You can stay over here, too (see page 66).

July 2016 World Traveller Promotion

3 must see icons

the royal opera house Muscat is a spectacular building, both inside and out, and well worth seeing even outside of performances. Muscat is also home to the architectural wonder that’s Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque. Inside it’s every bit as majestic; home to the world’s second largest woven carpet – all of 21 tonnes – and an eight-tonne chandelier lit by 24-carat gold lights. Salalah during Khareef season (now ‘til September) has to be seen for the fact that it’s such an anomaly within the GCC region. You’ll find verdant hills alive with wildlife.

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Weekends Rome For All...

One Weekend For All In...

ROME

With a name like The Eternal City, Italy’s capital has great expectations to deliver endless memories. It does so resoundingly, with opportunities to awe visitors of all ages

The romantic one

Villa Borghese is the biggest park in central Rome, and with its stature comes a pocketful of romantic moments, from the splendid boating lake upon which to row-around with your beloved, to the surrounding views of lush pines and pretty promenades along which to stroll. For a sweet treat, you’ll discover Gelateria del Teatro situated in the romantic square of Via dei Coronari. With bold fresh ice cream flavours such as rosemary, honey, lemon, and Sicilian almond, this haven of melt-in-the-mouth is open beyond midnight, and the picture perfect locale will please your sweetheart. Meanwhile, the magnificent Baroqueinfluenced Piazza Navona strikes a romantic chord, with its fountains, Bernini and Borromini crafted masterpieces, and a cluster of cafes from which to watch the world go by.

For a city built on seven hills, there are many vantages from which to witness a stunning sunset, though the Gianicolo atop Janiculum Hill gets kudos for its canoodling conduciveness. Finally, tucked behind Piazza Pietro d’Illiria is the symmetrical Garden of Oranges where love – and at the right time of year, a zesty citrus scent – is in the air.

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The family-friendly one

Believe it or not, the best new addition to grown-up Rome’s array of child-friendly details is within a luxury hotel. The Rome Cavalieri, within the Waldorf Astoria portfolio, has an action-packed new IT Club, that runs until September 30.

Art workshops, radio-controlled car racing, a video game party, Ferrari F1 simulator, and Nutella Chocolate Bar are just a handful of the activities that make up the League of Young Cavaliers summer programme.

Little ones aged 4-12 won’t want to leave the hotel (which was already famed for its kid friendly approach, Children’s Corner, and extensive park).

When coaxed into the cityproper, the mucky pups will doubtless find a way to get messy, so why not endorse the chaos with pizza making at a local trattoria and instructed by a chef? It is part of a tour that takes in Campo dei Fiori, a Roman market where the best local produce can be sampled.

Once their enthusiam for ruins begins to wane, head to Isola Tiberina on the Tiber River for L’Isola Del Cinema 2016.

Taking place until September, the film-fest shows movies in open-air cinema Sala Visconti on the island, and also within the CineLab in Trastevere.

Clockwise from left: The Colosseum at night; Saint Peter’s Basilica (and inside its dome); Roman Forum; Piazza di Spagna

July 2016 World Traveller

Did You Know?

Ask A Local

• Italy is a nation famed for its cuisine, but it wasn’t until last month that one of the country’s eateries finally secured the crown in the ‘World’s 50 Best Restaurants’ list. Osteria Francescana dethroned revered Spanish restaurant El Celler De Can Roca thanks to Chef Massimo Bottura, who ‘plays with Italian culinary standards – reinventing, subverting and improving.’ One wrinkle: it’s located in Modena, but that’s only a three-hour zip from Rome on the Trenitalia Eurostar (and, as per the culinary plaudits, is well worth the train journey)

“Discover the city’s authentic soul by starting with a visit to Villa Farnesina, to see its impressive frescoes by Raphael Sanzio. Walk between Via della Lungara and scenic Colle Gianicolo for a break in the Botanical Garden Museum, then climb the hill to encounter the church of San Pietro in Montorio and Bramante’s Tempietto (with its astonishing artistic-treasures). Be sure to find Fontana dell’Acqua Paola for breathtaking views, then finish with sunset at Pincio Hill, sipping an ‘Italian Aperitivo’ at Hotel de Russie, a calm oasis in the heart of Rome.”

The adventurous one

The restful one

Travelling with a brash companion, who seems a little too sure of themself? Dare them to meet the Bocca della Verità and put their money where their mouth is. The Mouth of Truth, in the Church of Santa Maria, is a statue with a macabre, centuries-old legend: the relic has a flowing mane, piercing eyes and gaping jaw into which the accused inserts a hand as a trial of honesty. Fail the test, and rumour has it that the liar’s hand will be chomped clean off...

Those looking to channel their inner Maximus will be thrilled to unleash hell at the Roman Gladiator School.

The two-hour lesson, conducted by the Historic Group of Rome, takes place not far from the Colosseum, and guests get to don traditional clothing and use authentic weapons. After, rather than galloping around Rome on a chariot, a more modern way to raise the adrenaline is to rent a scooter and zip through traffic (an adventure in its own right). Round off the weekend with a heart-pumping climb to the top of St. Peter’s Basilica in Vatican City. The 537 steps get really narrow and you’ll be in single file, but stunning views make vertigo worth defeating.

- Sebastiano Lombardi

In a city known for its abundance of ancient ruins, it can be hard to picture what they looked like in all their pomp and majesty. Enter, Palazzo Valentini. It is a fresh take on relaxing sightseeingamble, where the the sixteenth century meets the twenty-first: a stunning laser show and multimedia museum brings to life the architectural structures, mosaics and marble, making this less ‘history tour’ and more ‘time machine’. Crowds equal stress. For this reason, the San Lorenzo District is the place to head for restful respite from the Trevi Fountain flock. This is alternative, bohemian Rome, with unique shops and quaint eateries; trade tourist cliches for informality and intrigue.

Villa Gordiani, alongside Via Prenestina is another haven of peace. This archaeological park is rarely crowded, and the lawns blooming flowers and Roman ruins make this perfect for an evening stroll. There are plenty of hidden gems off the beaten track. When it comes to highclass shopping, for example, shun well-known Via Condotti and opt for equally elegant (and quieter) Via del Governo Vecchio, in downtown. Your own private Rome awaits.

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Weekends Great Escapes

GREAT ESCAPES

A SPlASh of Summer They pack family-friendly excitement

and cool respite from the sweltering heat: thank heavens for waterparks, the entertainment-oases of the desert

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July 2016 World Traveller 1.

2.

1.

Wild Wadi Waterpark, Dubai

Don’t let the stunning Burj Al Arab/Jumeirah Beach Hotel backdrop relax you: this Arabain-themed park is as wild as its name suggests. A collection of rides will rattle the bones, such as the Burj Surj, Wipeout & Riptide, and the series of thrilling Master Blasters. Yallah!

Must Ride: Jumeirah Sceirah jumeirah.com

2.

Aquaventure Waterpark, Dubai

3.

Atlantis, The Palm evokes the thunder and might of gods like Poseidon at their must-visit attraction, where guests can zipline 20m above the park, submerse on a Shark Safari in the lagoon, feed Cownose Rays, surge down Torrent River and The Rapids, or take a heart-stopping plummet on the ultimate ‘Leap of Faith’.

Must Ride: Shark Attack Slide atlantisthepalm.com

3.

Legoland Dubai Water Park

4.

It’s coming soon to the Dubai entertainment landscape, and LEGOLAND has already whet the appetite with an ocean of exciting images on Instagram.

If their water park in Florida is anything to go by, we’re in for a real treat come October.

Must Ride: Build-A-Raft-River (assemble a custom LEGO raft) legoland.com/dubai

4.

Yas Waterworld, Abu Dhabi

This Yas Island highlight is deemed a megapark, and lives up to the billing with 43 rides, slides and attractions serving up a huge slice of adventure, with a chance to try traditional Emirati pearl diving, too. It’s also home to the biggest kids’ waterpark play area in the Middle East.

One visit just isn’t enough...

Must Ride: Dawwama yaswaterworld.com 79

Weekends World Traveller Promotion

Born to be wild

I

Get ready for an elite Dubai staycation, where you’ll come for Wild Wadi Waterpark™ adrenaline, and stay for the levels of luxury at Jumeirah Beach Hotel

t’s one of those hot, July-September summer evenings in Dubai. You’ve reached the weekend, the children are restless and fancy a dose of excitement and adventure, and you’d relish the opportunity to cool off from the humidity… Head to Wild Wadi Waterpark™ for Starlight Fridays, and zoom around watercentric rides long into the night.

Very memorable.

For those unfamiliar, the waterpark is a UAE stalwart; one of the longest-serving theme park icons that is still as fresh in 2016 as when it first opened. Wild Wadi is themed around the tale of Juha – a known character from the Arabian folklore – and there are over 30 rides and attractions to entice the entire family. Some of the ride names make the hairs stand on end: take on Tantrum Alley, Burj Surj, the Wipeout and Riptide Flowrider surfing adventures, and (gulp) Jumeirah Sceirah. There are four levels of fun though (Waves of Fun, Relaxing, Daring, and Kid Friendly), and the Flood River and long, lazy drift along Juha’s

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Journey are suitable for those seeking a less-frenzied time. All that action can work up an appetite, and with a variety of snackfood locales such as Julshan’s Burgers and Dogs, Ali’s BBQ, and Riptide Pizza you’ll soon replenish your energy.

Wild Wadi has a stellar reputation and takes a considerate approach to its guests, perhaps best embodied by the peace-ofmind provided for female patrons with a dedicated Ladies’ Night. Every Thursday from 8pm until midnight (through to September 2016, excluding Ramadan), the waterpark is run entirely by female staff.

For Mums, their boys under-8 are allowed in, given that proof of age is provided.

While we’ve mostly mentioned visiting at night, the park being open from 10am provides plenty of scope to spend an entire day. Our tip for a sophisticated stay is to opt for one of the nine VIP cabanas – located along Juha’s Journey Lazy River and the Wavepool – in which to soak up the occasion. Up to eight guests are

July 2016 World Traveller

guaranteed private seating in a cabana with four premium (cushioned) sunloungers, cold towels upon arrival, VIP Fast Pass for quick access to White Water Wadi, and more. Book your exclusive cabana at wwguestrelations@wildwadi.com. All round, it’s a refreshing and thoroughly exciting experience for visitors of all ages!

Stay here

Once you’ve splashed through the Wild Wadi waves, it’s time to retreat to Dubai’s most instantly-recognisable wave-shaped structure, the Jumeirah Beach Hotel. The brand’s ethos is centred on providing a different dimension to the hotel-stay: 21 restaurants, cafes and bars ensure you can experience the bold flavours of world cuisine, it is set upon an enviable stretch of private beach, and the luxuriously furnished suites and Royal Villas afford spectacular views of the Arabian Gulf (that seductively curved building design makes for some pretty balconies). Accommodation-

wise, there’s a smorgasbord of options whatever the size of your family or group.

Among the elite are the Three-bedroom Ocean Suites, and Beit Al Bahar One and Two Bedroom Royal Villas; traditional, Arabian-styled villas that sit beachside.

This is a hotel styled for an unrivalled family getaway, with amenities that include the Pavilion Dive Centre, six swimming pools, Sinbad’s Kids Club and – of course – complimentary, unlimited access to Wild Wadi Waterpark™ and all its wonders.

Visa cardholders can avail some tempting stay, dining or play offers at both Jumeirah Beach Hotel and Wild Wadi Waterpark™. There’s the Summer Spectacular, Visa Suite Stay, Visa Exclusive Stay Offer and a Summer Dining Offer, as well as 25% off admission when paying with your Visa at Wild Wadi Waterpark™ (until September 30, 2016). Explore the world of Jumeirah lifestyle experiences, hospitality and special offers at jumeirah.com 81

Weekends 48-Hour Foodie

48-Hour Foodie

Vienna

A visit to this city of contrasts isn’t complete without sampling some of its fantastic gourmet offerings, where local food traditions are blended with sophisticated international fusions

DAY ONE Breakfast

DAY TWO Breakfast

Lunch

Lunch

Dinner

Dinner

Prepare to be suitably impressed with the breakfasts on offer at this charming eatery in a lovingly-restored tropical house in the beautiful Burggarten. Order freshly made omelettes and salmon from the open-style kitchen at Palmenhaus’, or try their crusty, meat sandwiches paired with boiled eggs (a favourite with the locals). Everything is complemented by excellent coffee, and the butterfly house next door is a great after-breakfast visit. palmenhaus.at In the heart of the Museum Quarter, Glacis Beisl is a pretty spot to refuel with genuine Austrian fare during a bout of sightseeing.

It’s a little tricky to find in the back of the quarter (at the top of some stairs underneath a vineyard), but it’s worth the effort it takes to find it. Drawing a mixed crowd of tourists and locals alike, this place does one of the best schnitzels in the city, which is no mean feat. And in its unique spot atop the 300-year-old city walls, its location is as authentic as the cuisine. glacisbeisl.at Inconspicuously tucked behind an unmarked door on Schonbrunner Strasse, Motto is the hip place to head for a delicious dinner on your first day in town. Tuck into the macaroni cheese for some guilt-laden but oh-so-delicious comfort food or keep things authentic with a wonderfully soft Tafelspitz (boiled beef). Don’t skip dessert; even Jude Law loves Motto’s strawberry and nougat dumplings. Afterwards, sample their speciality mixed drinks as you take in the eclectic interiors and trendsetting tunes. motto.wien 82

Long-frequented by Viennese highbrows, Café Central dates back to 1876 and you can practically feel the history as you walk into the palatial interior. Breakfast is a casual affair despite the vaults and marble columns, so pull up a Thonet chair and make like Klimt, Freud or Mozart. In the evening, the place is transformed: a truly elegant event with white linen tablecloths covering marble tabletops and a classical pianist entertaining guests on the ivories.

It’s a slice of history, with fantastic coffee to boot. palaisevents.at

Nibble your way around the aptly named Nashchmarket – the city’s best-known market – but be sure to make a stop at Umar Fisch.

Reputed to serve the best seafood in the city, this must-visit imports freshest catches of the day from Italy and Turkey and cooks it up in a manner that can only be described as delicious. Order the ever-popular swordfish or opt for mussels in white sauce and giant shrimps served in herb butter. Pair with a pleasant grape from the Wachau for an eating experience you shouldn’t miss. umarfisch.at Vienna’s first two Michelin-starred restaurant is the ideal spot to round off a visit. Rising from the banks of the River Wien, Steirereck provides an elegant setting of farm-to-fork eating amongst the walkways of Stadtpark. Fusing cutting edge processes with classical ingredients from his homeland, Heinz Reitbauers’s cooking hits the spot. Freshwater mountain fish served with yellow carrots, pollen and sour cream is the signature dish and well worth a sample, or tuck into succulent lamb belly paired with sea buckthorns. Make sure to book ahead. steirereck.at

July 2016 World Traveller

Staycations Desirable hotel hotspots on the GCC doorstep, for a relaxing weekend escape

Salalah Marriott Resort A Coveted Address

The Ritz-Carlton DIFC Art and Elegance

Hyatt Regency Makkah In the Sacred City

The Chedi Muscat Mountain Majesty

Location

Location

Location

Location

In a Nutshell

In a Nutshell

In a Nutshell

In a Nutshell

Beside the beaches of Salalah cove, the five-star resort is popular with family and group bookings

Limestone façade, stunning 14-storey waterfall and an art deco inspired lobby. A diamond in the glittering Ritz repertoire

This is comfort and convenience for worshippers and guests alike, at a property that offers panoramic views of the city

Traditional Omani, Zen, Arabic, Japanese and European visuals; warrants its membership of ‘Leading Hotels of the World’

On-site Highlight

On-site Highlight

On-site Highlight

On-site Highlight

The June-September monsoon is an amazing occurrence, as the arid mountains transform green and into a nature and wildlife haven. There’s an annual Salalah Festival to celebrate

DIFC is a true culture corner with world-class art galleries (showcasing both local and international works), acclaimed restaurants and quaint cafes.

Art is on-show in the hotel, too

Easy access to the holy site is the main appeal; for downtime, a state-of-the-art fitness centre, shopping gallery on the podium level and Regency Club Lounge are on hand for leisure time

All of its relaxation elements: The Chedi is set in a 21-acre garden oasis, has a thirteensuite Balinese spa, health club, and three pools (including one that’s a whopping 103m long)

Selected Suite

Selected Suite

Selected Suite

Selected Suite

Home for up to 5 guests, the 1 or 2-bedroom beach chalets are a real travel treat. Each affords stunning sea or mountain views from a balcony or terrace

The pinnacle is a 3-bedroom apartment with city and courtyard views, large dining area, walk-in closets and highthread-count bedding

The Royal Suite is pure luxury.

Floor-to-ceiling windows with mosque views and a bathroom with walk-in marble rain shower are among the treats

Each Chedi Club Suite is a stunning 67sq.m. villa with soaring ceiling, private terrace or balcony, open-plan bathroom and ensures Club Lounge access

Cuisine

Cuisine

Cuisine

Cuisine

The Cove, Dhofar Piano Lounge and The Wharf Pool Bar offer coffees and thirst-quenchers; Al Dana settles seafood cravings

The patisserie, Cake, tempts, but for a light evening meal take a table at Sunken Garden, an alfresco venue full of secrets

Visit KSA, dine Italian? Yes. Temptation is in the shape of Al Forno, a rustic trattoria eatery with open-kitchen concept

All nine culinary venues impress, starring sumptuous seafood at Beach Restaurant on a 370m private stretch of sand

marriott.com

Oman Dhofar: famed for sand dunes, ancient Mirbat forts and Wadi Darbat – lush during Khareef

ritzcarlton.com/difc

Dubai 2km from the Burj Khalifa in Dubai International Financial Centre, for buisiness and play

makkah.regency.hyatt.com

Saudi Arabia Gets you as close as possible to grand old Al-Masjid Al-Haram, the largest mosque in the world

ghmhotels.com/en/muscat/

Oman With the Hajar Mountains and Gulf of Oman, nature puts on a show for the hotel’s backdrop

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Weekends Abu Dhabi

City of Shutterbugs

The 9th International Emirates Photography Exhibition brings exceptional still-life works to the UAE capital

G

iven a camera, a ‘Family Album’ theme, and a set of performance values and standards by the International Federation of Photographic Art (FIAP), where does a photographer even begin? Entrants of the International Emirates Photography Competition – from 90 different countries, no less – took a maze of different visual paths to arrive at their own eye-catching interpretation.

The competition was a resounding success, with more than 30,000 submissions attempting to secure the FIAP gold medal and AED100,000 prize. Under the patronage of FIAP, the annual event is organised by the Tourism and Culture Authority (TCA) of Abu Dhabi, who selected ‘family’ as the this year’s theme in order to ‘reflect the community values, and connect a variety of individuals and cultural environments so as to serve modern, creative artistic ideas in the field of photography.’ The overarching ambition though is to motivate budding UAE-based photographers to attend

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specialised workshops, interactive meetings and seminars, as well as individual and group exhibitions. A series of masterclasses and workshops for adults and teens are being held at Manarat al Saadiyat, Al Marsam Al Hor in the National Theatre, and Al Qattara Arts Centre in Al Ain. July marks the final chance to view the 2016 exhibition being staged at Manarat Al Saadiyat, including the photographs of Grand Prize winner Chengliang Liu. The Chinese photographer triumphed thanks to a portfolio named Love on the Cooking Stove, which features eight environmental portraits depicting domestic scenes shot within family kitchens of rural Chinese homes. There are many notable victors worth seeing though, from categories such as the Monochrome Theme award, Noor Ali Rashid award and the Future Image

by Future Eyes youth award. The entire collective taps into a broad emotional spectrum and be it haunting, quirky, intriguing or downright creative, there’s

certain to be a photograph that inspires every soul... perhaps even enough to pick up a camera themselves.

Log onto visitabudhabi.ae for more details, or download the TCA ‘Visit Abu Dhabi’ app at bit.ly/VAD-mobile

Stay here

For a picture-perfect, Thai-inspired hotel in this emirate, Dusit Thani Abu Dhabi ticks the boxes of luxury. A heartbeat away from the city’s Corniche and its cultural centre, the property is located in the business district, but that’s not to say it’s strictly business here. They’ve executive apartments, an array of exquisite restaurants, facilities that include Namm Spa and DFiT Fitness Centre, and the stay-packages are worthy of attention too (in particular the appealing 24-hour Staycation, Bonus Night Encore and Couple’s Getaway offers). dusit.com/dusitthani/abudhabi

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Weekends dnata Offers

WORLD TRAVELLER

Weekend Reader Offers

Sheraton Dubai Mall of the Emirates

Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi

Radisson Blu, Abu Dhabi, Yas Island

UAE Park Hyatt Abu Dhabi Hotel & Villas

1 night from USD72 per person Special Offer: Receive 38% discount on room rate; complimentary upgrade from Park Room to Sea View Room; early check-in at 12am and late check-out at 4pm; 20% discount on spa treatments and 20% discount on food and beverage Includes: Stay in a Sea View Room with breakfast Validity: Now ‘til Aug 31, 2016

Radisson Blu, Abu Dhabi, Yas Island

1 night from USD69 per person Special Offer: Complimentary kids’ meals; complimentary access to Yas Waterworld and Ferrari World; guaranteed room upgrade to next category; late check-out until 4pm; 20% discount on food and beverage and spa treatments Includes: Stay in a Standard Room with breakfast Validity: Now ‘til Sep 30, 2016 86

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JW Marriott Marquis Hotel Dubai

1 night from USD61 per person Special Offer: 40% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfast Validity: Now ‘til Sep 30, 2016

Waldorf Astoria Ras Al Khaimah

Special offer: Stay 3 nights and get an additional night free; 2 children aged under 12 go free; 25% discount on all spa treatments (excl. mani/pedi) Includes: Stay in a Junior Suite Sea View with breakfast Validity: Now ‘til Sep 15, 2016

and 20% discount on selected spa treatments Includes: Stay in a Classic Room with breakfast Validity: Now ‘til Sep 30, 2016

Sheraton Dubai Mall of The Emirates Hotel

Kuwait The Regency Kuwait

1 night from USD91 per person Special Offer: Complimentary upgrade to next room category; late check-out until 4pm; complimentary extra bed for 1 child of 16 years or younger; 50% off on child breakfast rate, 30% discount on food and beverage;

JW Marirott Marquis Hotel Dubai

1 night from USD125 per person Special Offer: 18% off room rates; 15% off food and beverage Includes: Stay in a Standard Room (Garden View) with breakfast Validity: Now ‘til Sep 2, 2016

Oman Millennium Resort Mussanah

1 night from USD55 per person* Special Offer: Summer Promotional Rates: complimentary access to kids’ club and mini golf; rock climbing; beach volleyball; health club; sauna; steam room; Jacuzzi; and fishing Includes: Deluxe Garden View Room with breakfast Validity: Now ‘til Sep 30, 2016 *Offer is not valid during Eid Al Fitr

July 2016 World Traveller

WIN! A getaway to Al Waha, the ultimate Omani oasis, at Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah Resort and Spa A dedicated family hotel inspired by Dhofari architecture, the property is at the foot of majestic mountains. Each guest-room has lush garden views or vistas of the blue ocean, while several swimming pools surrounded by date palms create a serene outdoor space in which to splash (or relax). Our prize this month is 3 nights in a Superior King room at Al Waha hotel for two, with breakfast included. Just correctly solve this hotel-themed question: When translated, the meaning of Al Waha is...

A) B) C)

The Desert The Mirage The Oasis

Email your answer to easywin@ hotmediapublishing.com by July 31, 2016. *Valid for six months from July 2016 and voucher redemption is subject to availability.

Not valid during Public Holidays, Eid Holidays or between December 20-31, 2016

Toll Free Dubai: 800 4770 Abu Dhabi 800 701 www.thriftyuae.com

Locations Thrifty has more than 52 accessible locations across Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Al Ain, Sharjah, Ajman, Ras al Khaimah and Fujairah

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87

Weekends Suite Dreams

Suite Dreams

What: W Sound Suite Where: W Retreat & Spa Bali – Seminyak About:

As a brand, the W has an established guest-list of musicians who have resided at its hotels – their reputation for crafting luxury boutique properties (with iconic design) must resonate with similarly creative types. This popularity with discerning melodymakers has been noted, and lead to the creation of a unique suite where guests can ‘Sleep, eat, record, repeat.’ Says Anthony Ingham of W Hotels Worldwide, “We know that inspiration can strike at any moment, so the W Sound Suite is today’s tech-savvy version of scribbling lyrics on a cocktail napkin. Bali, a vibrant and creative hub, is the perfect setting for our first music studio.” This carefullyattuned enclave offers a stylish soundproof space with a main mixing room that includes professional equipment from Native Instruments, Pioneer and Moog, as well as a private vocal booth that overlooks a luscious tropical garden. If music be the food of hospitality, stay on. wretreatbali.com/wsoundsuite 88

Spend your summer in Abu Dhabi with superb entertainment across the emirate for all the family including live concerts, amazing theatre shows, great comedy and your favourite kids' characters live on stage!

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JUMEIRAH CITY BREAKS AT JUMEIRAH AT ETIHAD TOWERS.

Book any room category and enjoy the following discounts and benefits when staying a minimum of three nights: 20% Discount off Food & Beverage in the following restaurants: Li Beirut, Rosewater and Nahaam 20% Discount on Talise Spa body treatments only Up to 20% off Best Available Rate Complimentary Buffet Breakfast at Rosewater Complimentary Pool and Beach access Complimentary Wi-Fi access Book now using the promotion code: JCITYOFFER For bookings or more information, please call +971 2 811 5888 or email JADreservations@jumeirah.com

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