World Traveller - May'19

INSPIRED BY

ISSUE 133 | MAY 2019 | COMPLIMENTARY COPY

ST LUCIA

A true taste of Caribbean life

CALIFORNIA DREAMING

Produced in Dubai Production City

The coolest way to see the best of America's Golden State

LONDON PARIS NETHERLANDS SOLO TRAVEL

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While at Raffles, why not visit Dubai?

Welcome note

Trip to London on the horizon? It's one of the most popular destinations for travellers from the Middle East to head to during the summer, and we've pulled out all the stops to help make this year's jaunt your best experience yet by giving you a heads up on all that's new and noteworthy in the city in our cover story on page 24. From why you should swap Shoreditch for Peckham and Hackney Wick (trust us, we know what we're talking about), and taking a sneak peek at the hottest tables and most desirable hotels in town, we've got everything you need to curate your perfect trip.

And if you fancy tagging on a long weekend in Paris, our four-page feature, by our in-the-know travel writer Lara Brunt, tells you how to explore the City of Lights in style (p58).

Also inside this issue, we take you on a trip across California in a classic Airstream (p36) and whisk you away to live the easy breezy life in St Lucia (p48). Plus, in the spirit of Ramadan, we've unearthed some trips that'll add extra cultural meaning to your future travel plans on page 16.

Managing Director Victoria Thatcher Editorial Director John Thatcher General Manager David Wade Managing Editor Faye Bartle faye@hotmediapublishing.com

Happy travels, Faye Bartle

Win!

Art Director Kerri Bennett May 2019 // Issue 133 // What's New in London / California / Paris / Netherlands / St Lucia

Senior Advertising Manager Mia Cachero mia@hotmediapublishing.com

A true taste of Caribbean life

CALIFORNIA DREAMING

Production Manager Muthu Kumar

Photography credits: Getty Images and Phocal Media Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller.

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494

The coolest way to see the best of America's Golden State

2

The mighty Tower Bridge has straddled the River Thames for 125 years, p24

3

The best view of the Pitons in St Lucia can be found 600m above sea level at Tet Paul, p48

You can have breakfast with Red Riding Hood, among other adventures, at the fairy tale theme park Efteling in the Netherlands, p42

5

This year, Paris is celebrating the 130th anniversary of the Eiffel Tower, as well as 350 years of the Paris Opera, p58

LONDON PARIS NETHERLANDS SOLO TRAVEL

Produced in Dubai Production City

INSPIRED BY

A stay at Jumeirah Al Wathba Desert Resort & Spa in Abu Dhabi on p75 ST LUCIA INSPIRED BY

ISSUE 133 | MAY 2019 | COMPLIMENTARY COPY

1

A-listers including Hanks, Pitt, and McConaughey are fans of the humble Airstream trailer – it's our new favourite way to explore California, p36

4

Content Writer Habiba Azab

Senior Designer Hiral Kapadia

FIVE THINGS WE LEARNED THIS ISSUE:

COVER IMAGE Getty Images

Find us at‌ ONLINE worldtravellermagazine.com FACEBOOK @worldtravellermagazine INSTAGRAM @dnataworldtraveller TWITTER @WT_Magazine

worldtravellermagazine.com 5

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Kimpton Fitzroy London Hotel

Contents May 2019

24

WHAT'S NEW IN LONDON

regulars 10

15

20

24

76

This month's go-to places include the Turkish coastal city of Bodrum and blooming Amsterdam.

Passport at the ready as our world tour takes us from edible art in London to a new (and a newly relaunched) hotel in Maldives.

Carina Otero, founder of She is Not Lost, and Nastasia Yakoub of Dame Traveler share their expert advice for female globetrotters.

It's soon to be summer and London's calling.

Putting your finger on the pulse of what's hot in the Big Smoke are our on-the-ground experts.

It's high stakes glamour inside the Pierre-Yves Rochondesigned Diamond Suite at HĂ´tel Hermitage Monte-Carlo.

TRENDING DESTINATIONS

GLOBETROTTER

THE KNOWLEDGE

COVER FEATURE

SUITE DREAMS

worldtravellermagazine.com 7

CONTENTS

features

36

42

48

Jenni Doggett hits the road to discover why an Airstream trailer is the hippest way to holiday in California.

Once upon a time, a fairy tale land was built in Netherlands. Maggie O’Farrell heads there.

Liz Edwards on why self-catering in St Lucia is your key to getting a true taste of Caribbean life.

TALES OF THE UNEXPECTED

KEEPING IT REAL

© Paris Tourist Office. Photographer © Sarah Sergent

TRAILER FLASH

58

A LONG WEEKEND IN PARIS

weekends 56

REASONS TO VISIT AMMAN

The strikingly modern meets old world charm in Jordan's capital.

8 worldtravellermagazine.com

58

66

70

Lara Brunt falls head over heels for the City of Lights.

Feel in need of a break?

We have a couple more reasons to book a weekend escape.

It's time we sent you packing. Choose your next adventure from our exclusive offers.

A LONG WEEKEND IN PARIS

STAYCATIONS

TRAVEL OFFERS

E N J OY A B L E N D O F S T Y L E A N D T R A D I T I O N T H I S R A M A DA N Celebrate the Holy Month of Ramadan with friends and family in Dubai’s most established Ramadan setting within our intimate courtyards.

A F E A S T O F I F TA R E X P E R I E N C E S Enjoy Iftar buffets, served daily from sunset at Tagine and The Rotisserie for AED 230, or enjoy a private banquet setting with menus starting from AED 250.

Then extend the evening relaxing in our ‘Ramadan Café Courtyard’ at The Palace or ‘Ramadan Outdoor Café’ at Arabian Court.

Ramadan Café & Majlis: daily 8pm - 2.30am

oneandonlyroyalmirage.com +971 4 399 9999

TRENDING DESTINATIONS

Keukenhof, image courtesy of Conservatorium

Emily Williams, dnata Travel’s resident globetrotter, reveals the places that are trending this month

Amsterdam

People are flocking here to see the famous Dutch tulips bloom. Just 30 minutes' from the city centre you'll find the flower fields of the beautiful Keukenhof tulip garden, although blooms can also be seen at numerous locations throughout the capital, including the famous Tulip Museum. The weather is perfect at this time of year, and the city kicks off the summer in style by hosting a variety of outdoor music festivals to suit all tastes.

Highlights 1 Take an Instagram snap of the red, snake-like Python Bridge in the Azartplein district. 2 View rare artwork by the Dutch master at The Rembrandt House’s staging of Rembrandt’s Social Network (until 19 May). 3 Check out the Longing for Mecca exhibition at Tropenmuseum, which showcases personal stories from Dutch pilgrims.

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TRENDING DESTINATIONS

Jakarta

The metropolitan capital delivers the best of Indonesian city and beach life. A melting pot of different cultures, this urban jungle’s 100+ malls, packed closely together, make it a popular shopping destination. Plus, you can wander around Jakarta Old Town's colonial buildings, or take the 90-minute boat trip to the idyllic Thousand Islands beaches.

Getting around is easy thanks to the Jakarta MRT underground railway system, which launched in March.

Highlights 1 Hop on a boat from Ancol Bay and head to the tropical islands of Kepulauan Seribu for a night in a private beach hut. 2 Soak up the heritage in West Jakarta at Museum Fatahillah, and tour the surrounding Kota Tua district on a classic bicycle. 3 Drop by Setu Babakan in the south, where you can learn the story of the native Betawi culture.

worldtravellermagazine.com 11

Kenya

It’s the perfect time to go on safari. In Kenya, the green season is in full swing, which may result in a thunderstorm or two. But the aftermath, combined with the lush flora and fauna, will enhance your landscape shots dramatically.

As May is a wet month, and typically quieter, it'll be easier to view Africa’s big five (the lion, leopard, rhinoceros, elephant, and cape buffalo) while driving through the unforgettable Masai Mara National Reserve.

Highlights 1 Take a guided tour of Kericho, which has long been Kenya’s richest tea growing district. 2 Admire the great plains of the Mara by taking to the sky in a hot air balloon at dawn. 3 Consider going north to the shore of Lake Turkana, and making a guided visit to the El Molo villages for a glimpse of the traditional way of life of the smallest tribes of Kenya.

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TRENDING DESTINATIONS

Bodrum

This ancient port city on Turkey’s Aegean Coast is enjoying a surge of trendy five-star hotel openings and celebrityfavourite beach clubs. Add to the vibrant food scene, and abundance of superyachts bobbing in the marina, and it's easy to understand why Bodrum is referred to as 'the St. Tropez of Turkey'. Its 15th century castle on the water, white-plastered back-streets, and honey-coloured beaches and turquoise waters enhance the charm.

Highlights 1 Take a dip in the mud baths at Black Island and emerge with glowing skin. 2 Take a close up look at the famous windmills on the hilltop near Yalikavak and you'll also get great views of Bodrum and Gumbet. 3 Brush up on your maritime history at the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology in Bodrum Castle.

worldtravellermagazine.com 13

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Terms and conditions: • Non Marriott Bonvoy members get 15 percent off • Promotional code B4F appears in the Corporate/Promotional code box • Booking Window: 18th April 2019 – 25th September 2019 • Stay Window: 18th April 2019 – 30th September 2019.

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Globetrotter MAY

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Be informed, be inspired, be there

GRANDE DAME Following a two-year renovation, the newly relaunched Baros Maldives will rekindle your love affair with the Indian Ocean. A beacon of luxury with a fourdecade-long pedigree, this grand dame of Maldivian hospitality has added two new spectacular standalone villas to its exclusive palm-thatched community of secluded and over-water abodes.

Returning gourmands can rest easy, with the signature lobster bisque still headling The Lighthouse's award-winning menu.

World Traveller 15

GLOBETROTTER

Photo: Dr Esther Mahlangu by Clint Strydom

ON OUR RADAR Add some cachet to your holiday essentials with a stylish carry-all from The Reethi Rah Collection, a limited edition capsule collection

by One&Only Reethi Rah in Maldives and State of Escape.

Available from the resort's Neo Boutique.

Looking for the latest scuba hotspot? Pimalai Resort & Spa on Koh Lanta, Thailand, is offering a Diving in Koh Haa package, offering access to 12 spectacular marine life-rich underwater locations on this nearby jewel-like island. Lucky ones may even spot an endangered whale shark.

SOUL TRIPPING

Add extra cultural meaning to your travel plans this month

SEE A NATIONAL TREASURE South Africa bound travellers looking for unique artistic insight can explore Bantu nation tradition at One&Only Cape Town, where a collection of works by legendary 83-year-old Ndebele painter and national treasure Dr Esther Mahlangu is on show at the hotel's Melrose Gallery. Dedicated to celebrating the best of Pan African contemporary art and creativity, the newly opened space is the sister outpost to its original Melrose Arch Johannesburg gallery.

SNIFF OUT OMANI TRADITION The perfume capital of Arabia, Salalah is the epicentre of Oman’s centuriesold frankincense trade. Extracted from the Boswellia sacra tree, this precious resin with its distinctive sweet, woody scent is burned in homes as a natural air freshener, and used in beauty rituals to 16 worldtravellermagazine.com

de-stress. It's also said to have powerful healing benefits. Check into Al Baleed Resort Salalah by Anantara and join local area guru Hussain Balhalf for a guided frankincense tour and collect a few nuggets to take home. The resort spa also offers a signature 90-minute frankincense ritual.

SPIN A YARN OVER LUNCH Morocco's Atlas Mountains are home to the Berber people and this proudly independent ethnic group has maintained its language, culture and identity since 3000 BCE. Subsistence farmers and accomplished weavers famed for their intricate Amazigh carpets made using hand-dyed yarn, book the Berber Experience package at Mandarin Oriental, Marrakech for a unique opportunity to sit and chat with a local family over a home-cooked lunch in a traditional mountain home.

Exclusivity in the extreme is the MO at North Island Seychelles. The super luxe 11-villa private island resort has upped the desirability quotient with the opening of its ultra-exclusive cocktail destination,

West Beach Bar on North Island. Bespoke cocktails and fabulous sunsets are the standard.

Take a leaf out of Saudi Arabian influencer Dr Hassan Ghoneim’s book and upgrade your old suitcase to something altogether more stylish from premium luggage brand TUMI. Join his 1.3 million-strong Instagram following (@hassanghoneim) to see more. tumi.com

WORLD TRAVELLER X CAESARS BLUEWATERS DUBAI

Empire state of mind Relax, refresh and revitalise body and soul at Caesars Bluewaters Dubai, for the ultimate imperial experience this summer

A

life of enjoyment and pleasure was the foundation of the Roman empire, and Caesars Bluewaters Dubai puts a luxury spin on this ethos with a wealth of rich lifestyle experiences designed to pamper and please 21st century travellers. With an exclusive address at Bluewaters, this iconic destination has Las Vegas panache.

BEACH TIME & TRANQUILLITY A pristine stretch of private beach is your gateway to the crystal-clear waters of the Arabian Gulf and is best enjoyed from the comfort of a private cabana or, if you’re more action inclined, out on the water. A duo of stunningly landscaped outdoor pools add an extra layer of al fresco extravagance and are perfectly positioned for a quick dip or leisurely few laps. Zen moments away from the sand and water are also guaranteed in the upscale sanctuary of Qua Spa, with a regal collection of elemental inspired Neptune Pool, Caesars Palace Bluewaters Dubai

treatments that ensure the perfect balance of internal Qi energy. Try the revolutionary Psammo Concept Quartz Bed experience with its tension-relieving sand therapy, or the signature Ladies Collection Facial with a choice of Caviar Repair, Golden Glow and Collagen Lift.

DINING DELIGHTS Energy of a different kind is the focus of Caesars Bluewaters Dubai's talented culinary team, with a multicultural offering for every guest. From an immersive iftar experience at Michelin starred chef Gordon Ramsay’s Hell’s Kitchen to a family friendly Arabian feast experience headlining at Bacchanal throughout Ramadan. The popular Hellicious Brunch is also on the menu, with a spread fit for a Caesar every Friday evening in the month of May. Sunset takes on extra special significance at the rooftop dining venue Paru, where contemporary Japanese

cuisine is paired with signature drinks.

Sundowners with spectacular view of the JBR skyline and ocean? Paru ticks all the boxes. It doesn’t end there with Dubai’s social set to be found at Havana Social Club, the home of chilled Latin beats and classic Cuban flavours where extravagance takes on a seductive note.

SUMMER STAYS Play and stay like a Caesar for the ultimate romantic getaway at Caesars Palace Bluewaters Dubai, where couples can unwind to the sight of the sparkling sea from their own private balcony. A fun family escape awaits at Caesars Resort Bluewaters Dubai, with a fullypacked roaster of entertainment for all ages. Make it a summer stay, and be treated like royalty with exclusive summer savings and a host of added benefits yours to discover.

To find out more, visit caesars.com/dubai

Havana Social Club, Caesars Palace Bluewaters Dubai

One Bedroom Ocean Suite Living Room, Caesars Palace Bluewaters Dubai

worldtravellermagazine.com 17

GLOBETROTTER

ART ON A PLATE Culinary culturalists can whet their appetite, discover the arts scene and enjoy a science lesson at this trio of top London museums where food and fun are on the menu

Photography: Katie Wilson

LUNCH WITH VAN GOGH REX WHISTLER AT TATE BRITAIN Vincent Van Gogh's love of vivid colours is translated to the table with a three-course lunch and tasting menu to celebrate the EY Exhibition: Van Gogh and Britain (until 11 August). The Rex Whistler restaurant menu features best of British produce and uniquely Dutch ingredients.

Look out for an artistic culinary nod to his most famous works, including Starry Night on the RhĂ´ne. tate.org.uk

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BIGGER THAN THE PLATE VICTORIA & ALBERT MUSEUM The hot topic of food and sustainability takes centre stage at this bold exhibition, which invites visitors on a sensory journey through the food cycle, from compost to table. Over 70 contemporary projects, new commissions and creative collaborations by artists and designers working with chefs, farmers, scientists and communities sit alongside 30 objects from the V&A collections.

Opening 18 May. vam.ac.uk

NIGHT AT THE MUSEUM NATURAL HISTORY MUSEUM Sleepovers aren't just for kids. The Dino Snores for Grown-ups experience is an adult-only night of fun and games in the grand setting of the vaulted Hintze Hall.

Bed down for the night under the giant blue whale skeleton after a galleries tour, science show, edible insect tasting, monster movie marathon, threecourse dinner and more.

Taking place on 18 May, 5 Jul, 13 Sep and 9 Nov. nhm.ac.uk

GLOBETROTTER

Taj Rishikesh Resort & Spa, India

NEW HOTELS

Spiritual bliss and city vibes Check out the latest hotel hotspots, from India to the Indian Ocean 1

2

Taj Rishikesh Resort & Spa, India Just 30km from Rishikesh, the selfstyled yoga capital of the world, this sprawling 79-room haven of rustic luxury has the dramatic Himalayas as its backdrop, and the sacred Ganges at its feet. The Jiva Spa lies at the heart of the resort, and offers a menu of ancient holistic therapies. Explore your spiritual side with a private Ganga Aarti ritual, or seek adventure with rafting, rock climbing and trekking action on tap.

Jumeirah Living Guangzhou, China Location is everything at this homeaway-from-home styled CBD hotel, which has the Canton Tower and Guangzhou Opera House on its doorstep. The 169 suite residences are split between two iconic towers, each with its own design aesthetic.

With Guangzhou the birthplace of Cantonese cuisine, the hotel celebrates the city's pioneering flavours and is also home to the upscale Winter Mall.

3 The Residence Maldives at Dhigurah A palm-fringed paradise private island in the Gaafu Alifu Atoll, this all-villa hideaway is rich with Maldivian architectural influences and a surfeit of five-star facilities. Nature takes centre stage whether you choose the luxury of a sunrise/sunset beach villa or over-the-water residence. Explore local villages, watch dolphins at play, snorkel by night and feast at your pleasure with a bespoke private dining occasion.

worldtravellermagazine.com 19

KNOW-HOW

The Knowledge HOW TO...

Join the solo female travel movement Carina Otero, founder of She is Not Lost, and Nastasia Yakoub, founder of Dame Traveler, share their top tips for female globetrotters in search of adventure Travelling solo doesn’t necessarily mean travelling alone. "It simply means that you are

Carina Otero in Marrakech

free to follow your own schedule and choose what you do," says Carina. "In fact, solo travellers are more likely to meet and enjoy the company of other people along the way, including fellow female travellers who can offer companionship while also respecting your independence."

Feeling nervous is normal. "I was born into a strict Chaldean-Middle Eastern household so I understand feeling apprehensive and nervous about travelling," says Nastasia.

"Women from a similar background will know that travelling solo is a big, bold decision. My first trip solo trip ever was to Cape Town and I remember crying on the way there.

Truthfully, I was terrified, but after my feet were on solid ground, I truly embraced the spirit of adventure."

Do your research, and familiarise yourself with a destination before you get packing. "Even some of the 'safest' places have incidences of violence," says Nastasia, "so make sure you do your research and trust your gut."

Make sure you only do what you feel comfortable with. "Speaking from personal experience I’ve felt safe travelling solo in many destinations, including Taipei, Hong Kong, Bali, Italy, Spain, Switzerland, and Denmark," says Carina. "If you're feeling apprehensive, look into joining a women-only tour or a staying at a women-only hostel."

Safety while travelling is a top concern for any woman. "When on the move, make sure you stay 20 worldtravellermagazine.com

connected to your map by investing in an international phone plan and keeping your electronics charged.

Try to schedule your travel so that you arrive during the day, and it's also wise to dress appropriately, or like a local," says Carina.

"I like to look into typical scams for the destination I'm exploring, just to feel savvy and prepared," adds Nastasia. "In addition, you'll never find me without a safe and secure bag to tote around during the day. I like one with a sturdy zipper that crosses over the body."

Staying focused and aware of your surroundings is key. "If you

are making small talk with a new person, never reveal that you are travelling alone or that you are in a place for the first time," says Carina.

"Even sharing a little white lie, that you are on the way to meet someone, will signal that someone is aware of your whereabouts and is expecting to hear from you. Other information you should avoid sharing, or keep guard of, is your hotel name, your room number, and your home address if you happen to have it written on your luggage tag."

Follow She is Not Lost at sheisnotlost.com and @sheisnotlost; and Dame Traveler at dametraveler.com and @dametraveler

C R E AT E SPECIAL MOMENTS WITH US.

DUBAI MARRIOTT HARBOUR HOTEL & SUITES KING SALMAN BIN ABDULAZIZ AL SAUD STREET DUBAI MARINA, PO BOX 66662, DUBAI, UAE T. 971.4.319.4000 | DUBAIMARRIOTTHARBOURHOTEL.COM Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites @marriottharbour

Standing tall in the heart of Dubai Marina, featuring incomparable panoramic views of the city, combine the best of all worlds with luxurious accommodation, three contemporary dining destinations and a blissful caravanserai-inspired, Saray Spa.

Island idyll Indulge all the senses on Naladhu Private Island Maldives, where tropical escapism and signature Anantara luxury promise the perfect slice of paradise

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WORLD TRAVELLER X NALADHU PRIVATE ISLAND MALDIVES

I

f there was ever a blueprint for bliss then Naladhu Private Island Maldives would be the master plan. Naladhu, which translates from Dhivehi as ‘beautiful island’, lives up to its name from the moment you step off the private boat transfer to the sound of beating drums and warm welcome from your personal retinue.

Exclusivity comes in the shape of just 19 houses and one two bedroom residence, all with requisite views of the Indian Ocean, private pool and a charming colonial inspired design, with colourful Maldivian accents for that desirable island vibe. If luxury knows no bounds, then only the two-bedroom Pool Residence will do. With carved gates opening onto a private courtyard and your own beach beyond, 600 square metres of premium living space is yours to explore.

While tropical escapism tops the travel list for most guests, it’s comforting to know that a dedicated butler is on speed dial, and your go-to for indulging your every whim, from restaurant reservations to local excursions.

Island living is characterised by lazy days spent lounging in a hammock or wandering along the fine white sand beach, with moments of pure bliss only interrupted by gourmet dining opportunities. Seasonal cuisine

is in the all-day dining spotlight at The Living Room, with its intimate lagoon-front setting, whether it’s a simple but exquisite breakfast, a world-class dinner courtesy of a visiting Michelin starred chef or Maldivian inspired feast. Bespoke occasions are a speciality. One call to your butler and a romantic meal served in your favourite lagoon location is easily arranged.

Work off an indulgent lunch with a game of tennis or several laps of the 17-metre infinity pool, or exercise the mind with culinary classes, guided meditation sessions and private yoga tuition.

Mind, body and soul are also pampered at Anantara Spa at Anantara Dhigu and Balance Wellness

by Anantara at Veli. Here, healing Ayurvedic rituals meet Thai, Balinese and Western traditions with therapies designed to relax and rejuvenate.

The island will do its best to hold you captive but unforgettable moments of discovery await elsewhere, courtesy of a luxury yacht, speedboat, catamaran and traditional dhoni for chartered excursions and island hopping. Deep sea fishing, snorkelling and scuba diving take you above and below the crystal-clear waters. Or, take a seaplane tour for a bird’s-eye view of the stunning natural landscape and your Maldivian home away from home.

To find out more, call +960 664 4105 or visit naladhu.com

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What’s new in

LONDON?

Set to ship your supercar to Mayfair? In this ever-evolving, trendsetting city a lot has changed since last summer. If you’re keen to experience the latest and greatest London has to offer, our team of on-the-ground, in-the know city experts have the lowdown…

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THE LONDON SCENE

THE ’HOODS

Move over, Shoreditch. For too long, London’s east had the monopoly on cool: now it’s all about the smaller, sassier neighbourhoods it inspired South of the river Of the many London neighbourhoods to be billed as ‘the new Shoreditch’, Peckham, to the south of the River Thames, is where art galleries and rooftop bars now rub shoulders with street markets and indie coffee shops – the four hallmarks of hipsterdom. Check out Hannah Barry Gallery (hannahbarry.com) for contemporary creations, and the lofty terrace of Bussey (busseyrooftopbar. com) for Shard views over your artisan espresso.

Closer into central London, Bermondsey was once lined with warehouses and shipping wharves (it’s right on the river) – but they’ve been transformed into trendy boutiques and loft apartments. The restaurant scene is buzzing: Andalucia-inspired José serves a mean patatas bravas and padrón peppers (josepizarro.com) – while Village East’s menu has a New York twist (think smoked Applewood burgers and crab mac ’n’ cheese, villageeast.co.uk). In a striking yellow cubist building – trust us, you can’t miss it – Bermondsey’s Fashion and Textile Museum (ftmlondon.org) showcases London’s rich design history.

North of the river Hackney Wick was once one of London’s bestkept secrets: the kind of place you’d ‘discover’ for a weekend breakfast, and then spend the next two days skipping between vintage boutiques, art galleries and achingly cool cafés (actually, Stour Space combines all three: stourspace. co.uk). Halfway between Regent’s Canal and the Olympic Park site, the Wick is five minutes from Stratford’s Westfield mall (westfield.com) and the Olympic-icon-turned-slide – slide! – ArcelorMittal Orbit (arcelormittalorbit.com). With its swimming pool and Scandi-chic interiors, the shiny new Manhattan Loft Gardens Design Hotel is the area’s coolest place to stay (manhattanloft.co.uk). As any style maven will tell you, Kings Cross is hot property too – check out its shopping district Coal Drops Yard (coaldropsyard.com) and sexy new hotel The Standard (standardhotels.com). Still hung up on Shoreditch? It’s a winner for street art (head to Rivington Street or Great Eastern) and speakeasy nightspots (check out Callooh Callay, calloohcallaybar.com) – and now two new hip hotels, the nhow (nhow-hotels.com) and Redchurch Townhouse (redchurchtownhouse.com). worldtravellermagazine.com 25

The Dixon

L'oscar

Kimpton Fitzroy London

THE HOT HOTELS

From makeovers of historical abodes to spectacular, super-sized, full-service apartments, London’s hotel offering has upped its game again in the past year

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3

5

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KETTNER'S TOWNHOUSE LONDON Where: Soho If walls could talk, Kettner’s tales would be enthralling. First opened over 150 years ago by Napoleon III’s former chef, this legendary French restaurant was once the haunt of Oscar Wilde – and its newlyopened hotel is fast becoming hot property too. The bedrooms are few but fabulous, with richly-textured wallpaper, vintage furniture and deep-soak standalone bathtubs.

NEW ROAD HOTEL Where: Whitechapel Set in an old textile factory – where the owners' father used to work – New Road Hotel is the home of Marco Pierre White’s latest restaurant, Mr. White’s English Chophouse. While that’s certainly a boon for business, the hotel doesn’t rest on its laurels: expect excellent service, edgy interior design, and Loft rooms with al fresco London-view hot tubs.

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THE DIXON Where: Southwark Capturing the creativity and cultural clout of Southwark, The Dixon champions local craftsmen: everything from the imposing marble staircase to the hotel’s own coffee blend are British-made. The result? A wholly unique twist on a much-loved heritage property (it’s over 100 years old) that’s guaranteed to set your Insta alight.

FOUR SEASONS RESIDENCES AT TEN TRINITY SQUARE Where: City of London For longer London stays, these ten spectacular apartments top anywhere else in the city. Each one boasts views of the Tower of London and Tower Bridge, and combines the comfort and ease of a hotel with the luxury of a private (and huge) apartment. The Four Seasons hotel – and its Michelinstarred dining, spa and fitness centre – is a mere elevator ride below.

BELMOND CADOGAN HOTEL Where: Chelsea Guests at these luxurious lodgings will be given the keys to Cadogan Place gardens – one of Chelsea’s most beautiful gated retreats. Festooned with English roses, fruit trees, and plenty of quiet nooks for a picnic, it’s a little rural idyll in the heart of the city. Just as you’d expect from the Belmond brand, the hotel itself is sublime.

VINTRY & MERCER Where: City of London With its leather door handles, silken upholstery and velvet headboards, Vintry & Mercer feels more like a heritage property than a newbie (it’s just a few months old), but those plush interiors were inspired by the area’s illustrious textile-trading past.

For front-row views of London’s skyline (from the dome of St Paul’s Cathedral to the tip of The Shard, head to the Mercer Roof Terrace.

THE LONDON SCENE

Belmond Cadogan Hotel

7

WHITE CITY HOUSE Where: White City White City House, the BBC’s former Television Centre, is one of London’s greatest cultural icons – so all eyes were on its transformation into a members’ club and hotel last year. It didn’t disappoint. With just 45 rooms, a fabulous rooftop pool, and exquisite dining in the Canteen (one of many nods to the building’s history), it’s an interesting and intimate retreat.

8

KIMPTON FITZROY LONDON HOTEL Where: Bloomsbury Behind the soaring archways of its ornate 19th-century facade lies the most extravagant newcomer in London. After an £85 million revamp, the Kimpton is pristine and palatial: all multi-coloured marble and rich dark woods, with chandeliers the size of small cars.

Opt for a corner suite, and you can gaze over Bloomsbury from your gold-trimmed tub.

OR REVISIT A CLASSIC…

Having completed the most extensive restoration in its 117-year history, the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, London reopened in its entirety last month. The fresh look includes two newly created penthouse suites.

9

L'OSCAR Where: Holborn Inspired by the area’s theatrical heritage (the West End is just a stone’s throw away) L’oscar’s interiors feel deliciously vaudeville: think glittering chandeliers and velvety claret tones. Jaques Garcia – creator of New York’s The NoMad Hotel – is the design mastermind, while Michelin-starred chef Tony Fleming brings the culinary clout.

10

Four Seasons Residences at Ten Trinity Square

GREAT SCOTLAND YARD HOTEL Where: Westminster Another of London’s great landmarks to be reborn as a five-star hotel, Great Scotland Yard (the former HQ of London’s Metropolitan Police) promises decadent suites and destination dining – though at time of press, the opening date hasn’t yet been confirmed. But if you’re in town after this £110 million hotel has launched, it would be criminal (sorry) to not take a look. worldtravellermagazine.com 27

Cakes and Bubbles

Berenjak

Jean-Georges at The Connaught

THE TOP TABLES

Tom Kerridge, Albert Adrià, and Endo Kazutoshi are some of the big-name chefs to have served up somewhere new. These culinary hotspots have 'em clamouring for a table DIN TAI FUNG

CAKES AND BUBBLES

Go for: The hottest dumplings in town.

On Saturdays, Din Tai Fung’s flagship restaurant in Taipei 101 serves upwards of 10,000 hand-folded dumplings – and, judging by the clamour for tables at its new Covent Garden outpost, its London chefs need to be pretty fast-fingered too. The plump xiao long bao, with their intricate origami twists, taste just like Shanghai’s real deal.

Go for: Edible art.

Feast your eyes on Albert Adrià’s sweet masterpieces: flowers handcrafted from chocolate and coconut, crispy ‘air pancakes’ filled with maple syrup butter, and the signature cheesecakes that put his Barcelona restaurant – Tickets – on the map.

Adrià refined his craft at Michelinstarred El Bulli (Ferran is his brother), so expect great things from this restaurant in Soho’s Hotel Café Royal.

KUTIR Go for: Inventive Indian dishes.

Not content with having three Michelin-accredited restaurants under his belt already, chef Rohit Ghai is aiming for yet more stars with his latest project – Kutir, in Chelsea. Expect authentic flavours with an international twist, such as Gressingham duck korma and jackfruit kofta dumplings. The six-course ‘expedition’ tasting menus are superb.

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IMPERIAL TREASURE FINE CHINESE CUISINE Go for: Truly decadent duck.

While we could wax lyrical about Imperial Treasure’s succulent seafood and exquisite dim sum, one dish at this Waterloo restaurant always steals the limelight: the £100 Signature Peking Duck. After a first course of tender meat and crispy trimmings, a second

serving – stir fried, with a variety of sauces – makes this a feast you’ll rightly return for.

ENDO AT THE ROTUNDA Go for: London’s best bite?

Endo Kazutoshi’s hotly-anticipated sushi restaurant at White City House has whipped London’s top food writers into a frenzy – and already welcomed the King of Jordan. With just 15 seats, you’ll need to book months ahead, but in the words of Times restaurant critic Giles Coren: ‘It was probably the most perfect meal I have eaten in a restaurant’.

High praise indeed.

BANCONE Go for: A quick bite between sightseeing.

It comes as little surprise to learn that Bancone’s founder and head chef, Louis Korovilas, is Locanda Locatelli

THE LONDON SCENE

Kerridge's Bar and Grill

alumni. Those dishes of silky oxtail ragu pappardelle and tender cuttlefish tagliatelle wouldn’t look out of place in a Michelin-starred joint – but here they’re served in a refreshingly laid-back setting, in one of Covent Garden’s best-value restaurants.

BERENJAK Go for: Perfect Persian.

“With Berenjak, I wanted to evoke the style of a rustic hole-in-the-wall eatery from Tehran,” says its founder Kian Samyani, “and reinterpret signature dishes using seasonal British produce.”

It’s a recipe for success: the chargrilled poussin – a juicy, spicy triumph – is one of Soho’s hottest dishes right now.

KERRIDGE’S BAR AND GRILL

OR REVISIT A CLASSIC…

During the '60s Langan's Brasserie in Mayfair proved a magnet for famous faces, pulling in the likes of Jagger, Brando and Ali while remaining resolutely unpretentious. It no longer hogs the limelight, but still deserves star billing.

Neptune

Go for: Great British bites.

It’s hard to believe that this is Tom Kerridge’s first London restaurant, but he actually made his name in the village of Bray, Berkshire – with the double Michelin-starred Hand and Flowers. Building on his reputation for fine British cuisine, Kerridge’s new project (at the Corinthia Hotel) gives old favourites such as fish and chips and cottage pie the five-star makeover they deserve.

NEPTUNE Go for: Oyster ‘happy hour’, 6-7pm.

The elegant, airy dining room of Kimpton Fitzroy London boasts an oyster bar, wood-fired grill, and one of the most exquisite seafood menus in town. Come for lunch, and you’ll want to linger on the luxurious leather banquettes – supping shellfish and swigging vintage bubbly ’til sundown.

JEAN-GEORGES AT THE CONNAUGHT Go for: A fancy breakfast.

The latest addition to Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s international empire, this Mayfair restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and afternoon tea. Our tip? Book breakfast in the light-flooded conservatory: the menu is just as globetrotting as J-G himself, and includes spicy Indian dosas, homebaked brioche, and truffle-laced scrambled eggs. worldtravellermagazine.com 29

Hampton Court Palace

SUMMER’S HOTTEST TICKETS From the Proms to grime, Kubrick to da Vinci; London’s summer events offer something for everyone

MARY QUANT Where? Victoria and Albert Museum When? 6 April-16 February 2020 She was the visionary that changed the world of fashion forever – and this summer’s Mary Quant retrospective at the V&A is a colourful caper indeed.

From makeup to miniskirts, over 200 garments and accessories are now on display, including many pieces from the designer’s personal archive. vam.ac.uk

BEASTS OF LONDON Where? Museum of London When? 5 April-5 January 2020 Designed especially for inquisitive kids, this immersive digital installation will tell the story of London through the eyes of its animal residents: from lions and elephants, to horses, rats and – of course – pigeons. See if you can spot the famous voices, including Brian Blessed, Nish Kumar and Stephen Mangan. museumoflondon.org.uk 30 worldtravellermagazine.com

LEONARDO DA VINCI: A MIND IN MOTION Where? The British Library When? 7 June-8 September Showcasing the highlights of Leonardo da Vinci’s extraordinary notebooks, this unique exhibition will mark the 500th anniversary of his death. From waves to winds, da Vinci considered motion to be ‘the cause of all life’ – and the exhibition will explore his theories further, shining a light on one of the greatest thinkers and scientists of all time. bl.uk

ANTONY GORMLEY Where? Royal Academy of Arts When? 21 September-3 December He’s best-known for his epic Angel of the North, but Sir Antony Gormley’s oeuvre spans decades, materials, and disciplines galore – and this summer he’ll be taking over the RA, too. This significant solo exhibition will display his early works alongside large-scale installations

All Points East

made especially for this Mayfair gallery. royalacademy.org.uk

ALL POINTS EAST Where? Victoria Park When? 24 May-2 June With headliners including The Chemical Brothers, Primal Scream, and Christine

THE LONDON SCENE

OR REVISIT A CLASSIC…

One of the longest running shows in West End history (seen by almost 10 million alone in London), WICKED, the big hit musical about the Witches of Oz, released a further 470,000 new tickets last month.

Go get some.

and the Queens, it’s hard to believe that this East London festival is only in its second year. Set over two weekends, it’s a great place to catch up-andcoming London acts performing alongside the big global names. allpointseastfestival.com

classical music. It has moved deftly with the times: 2018 saw Beethoven’s Fifth restyled as a punk triumph, the festival’s first virtual reality recital, and the BBC Concert Orchestra collaborating with some of the biggest names in folk music. royalalberthall.com

LEE KRASNER; LIVING COLOUR Where? Barbican Centre When? 30 May-1 September For too long, the work of Lee Krasner has been overshadowed by that of her husband, Jackson Pollack – but not for much longer. The Barbican’s summer exhibition will bring Krasner’s bold, bright canvases to the fore, revealing her as a true pioneer of Abstract Expressionism. With nearly 100 works

on display, this will be one of the most far-reaching Krasner retrospectives to date. barbican.org.uk

STANLEY KUBRICK: THE EXHIBITION Where? The Design Museum When? 26 April-15 September From The Shining to A Clockwork Orange, Kubrick’s classics are countless – and this immersive exhibition details the inspirations and talent that brought them to life. With insight from rare artefacts, interviews and unseen footage, this is a fascinating deep-dive into the director’s obsessive genius – a mustsee for any film fan. designmuseum.org

Lee Krasner

HAMPTON COURT PALACE FESTIVAL Where? Hampton Court Palace When? Various dates Explore one of London’s greatest royal residences in star-studded company – including Kylie, Nile Rodgers, and Tears For Fears. After a day exploring the stately splendour of Hampton Court Palace – and feasting on afternoon tea – the evening brings incredible al fresco performances, complete with a full orchestra playing under the stars. hamptoncourtpalacefestival.com

WIRELESS

Beasts of London

Where? Finsbury Park When? 5-7 July One of the biggest weekends for rap and grime obsessives, Wireless will see the likes of Cardi B, A$AP Rocky and Travis Scott descend on Finsbury Park. Like the sound of that? Don’t miss Lovebox (Gunnersbury Park, 12-13 July) – featuring Solange, Loyle Carner, Chance the Rapper and more. wirelessfestival.co.uk & loveboxfestival.com

BBC PROMS 2019 Where? Royal Albert Hall When? Various dates Taking over this incredible venue every summer since 1941, The Proms is London’s biggest and best celebration of worldtravellermagazine.com 31

Pat Mcgrath Labs

OR REVISIT A CLASSIC…

There's always something cutting edge at old favourite Selfridges and last month saw cult beauty brand PAT MCGRATH LABS set up a threemonth residency, which includes exclusive in-store beauty services.

WHAT’S IN STORE

London’s always on-trend shopping scene fuels the need for a mid-spree spruce DESIGNS FOR LIFE

HIGH STREET HEAVEN

BEST OF BEAUTY

When Coal Drops Yard first opened its doors last November, all eyes were on the mall’s cutting-edge threads – by Paul Smith, Cos, Superga, et al – but now its homewares are hogging the limelight. From pared-back Scandi lighting at iyouall to hand-forged knives at Kitchen Provisions, this new Kings Cross collective includes some of Europe’s most inventive designers.

Tom Dixon’s boutique showcases his iconic ‘S Chair’ – a gravity-defying squiggle of furniture – while French emporium Caravane is stuffed with sumptuous fabrics. Short on suitcase space? Head to Miller Harris for naturally-inspired home fragrances, or to Bonds for hand-poured candles.

It isn’t quite The Dubai Mall proportions, but Europe’s biggest shopping mall, Westfield London, got a £600 million makeover last year – so it’s only polite to pay a visit. New names include Urban Revivo (for fast fashion from Asia), Frencheye (for men’s tailoring), and Cath Kidston (for those iconic floral prints). But the real boon is John Lewis’s new flagship store, which puts many of Britain’s best ateliers – plus plenty more from Europe and beyond – in one superstylish spot. As well as oodles of fashion and beauty brands (including in-store manicures and facials) there’s the Style Studio – where you can explore London’s latest trends.

Shopping taking its toll on your mani?

Perfectly positioned for a mid-spree spruce, House of Lady Muck (HOLM) has just opened in Topshop’s Oxford Circus emporium – the hottest new salon in town. Check out HOLM’s Insta: its nail art is sublime – and a snip, from just £18. Provence-inspired beauty powerhouse L’Occitaine recently opened its new flagship store in Covent Garden – replete with a Pierre Hermé macaron bar. For more paredback skincare, head to Aesop (just opened in Coal Drops Yard) or nearby FaceGym, which promises surgeryfree lifts by working the ‘40 forgotten muscles’ of the face. Definitely something to write home about.

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THE LONDON SCENE

FUEL FOR YOUR FEED

Want your wall to pop with style? Smartphones at the ready for these instaworthy venues The Gallery at Sketch

THE HOTEL Every inch of the Bloomsbury Hotel is sheer Insta heaven. The striking botanical-print wallpaper; the Murano glass chandeliers; the monochrome marble bathrooms – and, of course, the gorgeous Dalloway Terrace restaurant.

Its décor changes with the seasons: this spring, festooned with silk blooms, it became a jungle of fuschia orchids and passion flowers. @dallowayterrace

THE MUSEUM The British Museum’s Great Court is an Instagram star in its own right. When the sun shines, the domed glass roof shimmers – casting geometric shadows across the exquisitely curvaceous courtyard. How to capture it best?

Head to the upper floor gallery area, and coincide your visit with the Manga exhibition (23 May - 29 August) for some seriously striking shots. @britishmuseum

THE RESTAURANT You’ll recognise Sketch’s bubblegum pink décor and marshmallow-esque banquettes as soon as you step through the door – but The Gallery (a brasserie) is just one part of this Mayfair Insta-sensation. Even the bathrooms – eerie, egg-shaped pods – are irresistibly snappable. @sketchlondon

THE GARDEN With their exotic flowers, immaculate lawns, and towering trees, Kew’s Royal Botanic Gardens always look great on the ’gram – and this summer (from 13 April) they’ll be more gorgeous than ever. Dale Chihuly, the world’s most celebrated glass artist, will be taking over the gardens with his delicate-yetdazzling creations. @kewgardens

THE ICON

Kew's Royal Botanic Gardens

Dalloway Terrace at The Bloomsbury Hotel

Tower Bridge has straddled the River Thames for 125 years, and it has never looked better. The angle’s up to you: a cross-water panorama from London Bridge? A downward-facing shot from the glass walkway? A selfie from St Katharine Docks? Just try and squeeze the Shard into the frame too. @towerbridge worldtravellermagazine.com 33

Ramadan Kareem For Iftar with a difference, join us at the newly opened Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra which will host a unique Indian 10-course set menu.

Available from sunset until 8.30pm.

T +971.4.414.3000 jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com masalalibrarydxb

XXXXXXXXXXXXX Gros Piton in Southern St. Lucia

Postcards Stories from journeys far and wide

CALIFORNIA p36 HOLLAND p42 ST LUCIA p48

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CALIFORNIA

With retro good looks and bunk space for two, an Airstream trailer is the hippest way to holiday in California. Hotels? Who needs ’em?

Jenni Doggett hits cruise control

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CALIFORNIA

fter 250km, turn left.’

California’s epic scale has rendered my satnav redundant. But at least we don’t have to worry about making it to the hotel in time: my friend Sergio and I are touring the Golden State with accommodation in tow. Our home for the fortnight is a classic Airstream trailer, one of those shiny aluminium bullets (don’t call them caravans) that have graced the highways of America since 1931.

As well as 90-odd years of history, the space-age-silver trailer comes with a glamorous Hollywood pedigree: name an A-lister and they probably own one — Hanks, Pitt, McConaughey, Depp et al have all fallen for its vintage-Americana looks and freedom-of-the-open-road mythology. The film-star version is probably a bit more substantial than ours, mind: Sergio and I have booked the smallest model available, a 5.5m ‘Bambi’, along with a muscular fourwheel drive to tow it. Truth be told, our Bambi looked a little ignoble beside a truck almost twice its length, but I’d been assured that, for a first-time RV driver like me, it’s manageable, cosy and maintains a sheen of cool in spite of its size and resemblance to a toaster.

So, at a rental lot on the outskirts of San Francisco, we receive a quick briefing on how to hook up the power and empty the tanks, then we’re off, leaving the city at rush hour, me terrified of Downtown’s famously treacherous gradients.

Hunched like a tense crow, I grip the steering wheel, barely reaching doubleworldtravellermagazine.com 37

digit speeds for the first few kilometres.

Urban rush hour aside, the US is built for these beasts, and once we get across the Golden Gate and out of the metropolis my confidence swells.

The gears are automatic, the roads broad and the locals forgiving.

We’d chosen the state for our Airstream adventure partly because this is where Wally Byam founded the company in 1931, partly because nowhere else in America says, ‘Go west, young man... Head out on the highway... This land is your land... Wherever you lay your hat, that’s your home...’ and all the rest of it quite like California.

And then there’s the variety. California comes with a range of terrain that makes it a road-trip dream: temperate rainforests, alpine mountains and vast tracts of desert, as well as the more clement Pacific coast stretching south from Los Angeles. We haven’t made too much of a plan — the whole point of an RV is that you’re not tied to a schedule or itinerary, so you can pull over and stay any place that calls to you — but we do decide at the outset to reject the iconic Route 101 in favour of a loop heading north to the Redwoods and the wilderness that we could experience in our Airstream in a way we never could staying in a hotel.

It’s pretty civilised to start with. Vivid red Budweiser and Coca-Cola trucks coast past, the commercial lifeblood of America flowing along the country’s vast asphalt arteries. We lumber by hilly vineyards and quaint country towns — Philo, Boonville, Cloverdale — full of wholesome homemade-pie shops and hand- painted signs. Streets bristle with wooden porches, hanging flowers and palpable civic pride, and we pass scores of eccentric emporia: the Here’s Hair Salon, Independence Guns and Ammo, the Love In It Co-op (a medical herb dispensary). We snack 38 worldtravellermagazine.com

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THE SMITH RIVER RASPS PAST, AND SMALL STREAMS CHUCKLE AWAY UNDER FALLEN TRUNKS

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on punnets of two-dollar honestybox cherries from local farms.

Keen to plug in for our first night while it’s still light, we’ve reserved a spot in an almost empty campground in Manchester, Mendocino County. Early May is the perfect time to travel here: the parks are quiet and we’re pretty much alone. At reception we’re issued with a camp map and allotted a site number. These places are seamlessly managed, and navigation is easy — we circle Sunshine Drive and turn off Happy Kamping Way — but still with a proper dose of nature: the narrow gravel track peters out at our parking spot between towering tinselly firs.

While I build a fire and crack open some Californian red, Sergio hooks us up to the mains. The campground is well catered for, with electricity, water, pump-out, shower block and a bear box to protect food supplies. The cleverly conceived Airstream interior we’d so carefully packed, however, has rearranged itself into a Jackson Pollock of ketchup and socks. It takes time to get used to living in such a small space, but as the trip progresses we learn how best to seal, wedge and stuff our possessions to minimise the carnage.

Every day we devise new ways to make do with our resources: I discover that black pants make a passable eye mask for sleeping through those early sunrises.

The next morning, however, we hit serious trouble, with our 4WD’s engine emitting a sulky grunt followed by silence. Our neighbours convene around the stubbornly unresponsive motor and various theories are advanced. I’m worried we forgot to flip a connection and drained the batteries, but our advisory panel kindly demurs. ‘You know what’s wrong?’ says Glen, a wry glint flickering.

‘It’s a Ford.’ (All-round mirth.) Twenty minutes and a squirt of something homemade later, we are on our way — with a glovebox full of numbers to call should we have any more problems.

It’s clear from the affectionate, slightly covetous glances we receive on leaving, that the Airstream has successfully initiated us into the RV fraternity.

We push on up the coast through Fort Bragg, Garberville and Eureka, as all the while the Pacific hurls itself angrily ashore in dark grey arcs on our left. We’re keen to get some distance covered, and still apprehensive of any manoeuvre more complicated than straight driving, so we barely stop on the first day, lapsing into a cruise-control trance. Gradually we relax, and life resolves itself into a set of simple priorities: where to sleep and find firewood, fill up and empty tanks.

One of California’s main draws for us is that it has more national parks than any other state — not to mention hundreds more state parks, many of which you can stay in — and our next night is spent at the Redwood State Park RV Resort.

We quickly ditch the trailer and head to nearby Stout Grove, which doesn’t have the biggest trees in the region, but is staggeringly, serenely beautiful.

We wander by belt-high sword ferns, bright-yellow banana slugs and outsized sorrel. The wind builds a gentle snare-drum-roll high up in the canopy, animating the leaves then swishing away. The Smith river rasps past, and

Credit: Jenni Doggett/The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/News licensing

CALIFORNIA

CALIFORNIA

This page, clockwise from top left: leaving the city behind via Golden Gate Bridge; Lake Helen at Lassen Volcanic National Park; a burst of sun at Redwood National Park; parked under the stars at El Capitan State Beach; reading time aside a mountain lake

GOLDEN GLOW Diwali (7 November) is one of

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CALIFORNIA

Panamint mountains

small streams chuckle away under fallen trunks. Prehistoric moss is delicately draped over ancient branches.

I stretch out on the sun-warmed pebbles at the water’s edge. Far removed from the bleeps and screens of city life, I feel myself slowly filling up with whatever it is that urban living siphons away — something atomic is soothed.

Heading east, to Lassen Volcanic National Park, we become doubly grateful for having all our gear in tow. The weather here is rarely a polite British mist or mild bluster — it’s more extreme.

The wind has teeth. In fact, there’s some question as to whether we will manage this stretch, blizzards having recently closed the roads, but we push on. We’re rewarded by a surreal hike through the snowy hydrothermal peaks. Steaming fumaroles and sulphur vents flank the path, spluttering mud pots and boiling springs mutter and pop as we pass.

We suck fistfuls of snow and listen to indigo-crested pine jays ack-ack at each other from icy branches. We sleep soundly in the snug confines of our aluminium abode, wake with the sun blushing through panoramic windows, and feel ourselves slipping deeper into the landscape each day.

Further south, at Lake Tahoe, our campsite has just opened for the season, so we have a grand sandy-beach view of the deepest lake in America all to ourselves. We’re seat-shaped and tetchy from too much driving, so we take a few days out, to kayak and stretch our legs, relishing the freedom to change our plans on a whim, and pitying those poor fools locked into their prebooked hotel regime. Tired of our own cooking, we eat at a restaurant called, unpromisingly, the Naked Fish — and feast on fresh local sushi, which turns out to be some of the best I’ve ever had.

When we do hit the road again, we head towards Death Valley — with a stop en route, somewhat incongruously, at Walmart. I’d heard RVs are welcome to stay overnight in the grocery giant’s car parks for free (it’s known as Wallydocking, apparently), but seriously doubted the appeal — until I saw the Gardnerville branch, with its crisp, dramatic view across the white40 worldtravellermagazine.com

tipped peaks of the Sierra Nevada.

And sure enough, a row of enormous motorhomes were parked up neatly in the far corner of the lot. One owner, lazing in a deckchair, nods an unspoken assertion that this is the life.

At the other end of the spectrum, there’s ‘boondocking’ — dry camping in the middle of nowhere, with no power hook-up — and we become more confident at it as the days pass. (We also become more dependent on it, as we realise how we’ve underestimated the distances involved out here: serpentine mountain roads with violent chicanes make for fun driving, but slow going, and the engine growls and strains.) In fact, of my two favourite nights, one was spent in an unbooked state-run ‘dry’ park we stumbled upon, and the other was in the open desert of Death Valley.

If ever you doubted your mortality, the desert will soon put you right. The suffocating stillness and telephone poles all state that you do not belong here.

There is an acrid scent of searing tarmac in the air, and our vision quivers as the temperature hits 38c. Death Valley is one of the lowest inland spots on Earth, and Furnace Creek (population: 24) is at an ‘elevation’ of 60m below sea level. Even with its Visitor Centre, it’s intimidating; but as the afternoon passes, a breeze stirs up dust and brings some life to this airless place. We watch for a while as a pair of wild russet mares stand mirrored, bowing over a sleeping foal.

Pulling off the road at dusk, we fall into our usual routine around the fire. But the Airstream has one last surprise for us. By accident, I discover that its internal showerhead can actually be pulled outside via a hatch — so we shower off the day’s dust in the middle of an empty desert.

The sun fades fast over the venerable Panamint Mountains, grand marbled strata of cream and grey; countless stars form a celestial dot-to-dot; and, amazingly, I don’t have to leave.

I get to stay here, to merge into it all. I don’t need a sat-nav to tell me I have reached my destination.

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com

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THE SUN FADES FAST OVER THE VENERABLE PANAMINT MOUNTAINS, GRAND MARBLED STRATA OF CREAM AND GREY

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This page and following pages: Fairy tale houses and adventure rides await at Efteling

NETHERLANDS

The author Maggie O’Farrell falls under the spell of a fairytale theme park, family-friendly cycle trails and a moated town

W

e are in the middle of breakfast when Red Riding Hood turns up. She skips — yes, skips — to the table, swinging her basket, and trills: “How are you today?”

My youngest daughter stares, astonished, croissant in hand. She examines this vision, from the buckled shoes to the red cape, then she looks across the room to where a knight in full armour is engaging a table of children in a sword display.

Such is life at Efteling, the Netherlands’ enormous fairytale extravaganza, 100km south of Amsterdam, where fantasy is to be imbibed with your daily bread. If, like me, the words ‘theme park’ make you shudder or, when paired with the word ‘Disney’, bring you out in hives, you might find this place more palatable.

You won’t find any kitsch, bowdlerised renderings of folk tales. No singing rabbits or anthropomorphised deer. No overly gendered or cutesy messages are rammed home. Efteling is, instead, refreshingly loyal to its traditional storytelling roots.

This isn’t to say that there isn’t a commercial side: there is and, good grief, it’s huge. The sun is out when we arrive and people are stolidly queueing for 45 minutes for the rides. There are river-rapid boats that circle you round and round while spraying you with water; rollercoasters that worldtravellermagazine.com 43

CANADA

shuttle you upside down and round about; a ghost train; a haunted house...

Just watching makes me feel dizzy, but my teenage son seizes his day pass and disappears, delighted.

Much more my pace — and that of my six-year-old — is the little steam train that circles the perimeter of the park.

We like it so much that we go twice, sitting behind the driver, a silver-haired woman, possibly in her sixties, who hefts coal into the furnace. The woman next to me has her grandson on her knee. She tells me that she lives near by and has been coming here all her life.

“My parents took me,” she says, “then we took our children, and now I bring my grandchildren.”

Efteling was originally, she says, the idea of a local priest who, after the war, wanted to establish a place where children could play. So the mayor designated an area of forest for a football pitch and a playground. “And then,” she continues, “in the Fifties they started making the fairytale scenes.”

These scenes are the reason I’m here.

Efteling’s Sprookjesbos (Fairytale Forest) sprang from the imagination of Anton Pieck. Even if the name means nothing to you, you will almost certainly be familiar with his work: his illustrations shape the way we think about folk tales. All those crowded, cross-beamed houses and luscious, toadstool-studded forests. There were 44 worldtravellermagazine.com

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THE INSTALLATIONS ARE LIFE-SIZED, SO CHILDREN CAN WALK THROUGH SLEEPING BEAUTY'S SOMNOLENT PALACE

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several of his pictures on the walls of my nursery school and I also owned a copy of Arabian Nights that was illustrated by him.

So I have come to walk through his Sprookjesbos with my children (except the eldest, who mystifyingly opts for further torture by rollercoaster).

What happens is this: you walk along a winding path, through a thick fleece of oak trees and, just when you least expect it, you will come upon a scene. The house of the seven kids (young goats) with a becloaked wolf knocking at the door; Rapunzel in her tower, watching a mechanised witch ascend her plait; Geppetto’s shop, with dancing mice and leaping chisels; a donkey that excretes silver coins at the press of a button.

It is, of course, utterly magical, but

with that slightly sinister Pieck edge.

The wolves have teeth, the dragon roars, the giant fish smells appropriately piscine. The installations are life-sized, so children can walk through Sleeping Beauty’s somnolent palace and gaze up at a sugary but lethal gingerbread house that just might swallow them up.

What baffles me most about Efteling is that the people in our neighbouring forest lodges, at the buffet, on the steam carousel, are largely Dutch, with a light sprinkling of Belgians. How come more nationalities don’t visit?

It is a question that returns again and again as we venture farther into Brabant, the low-lying, southernmost region of the Netherlands and the birthplace of Hieronymus Bosch and Vincent van Gogh.

A day or so later we are in the middle of Heusden, a small, walled town on the River Meuse. “In order to stop cannonballs in their tracks,” our guide is saying, “all the streets were built with a slight curve in them.” We look and, sure enough, the long, narrow street has a slight kink at the end. Our guide points up to a high gable, where a cannonball remains embedded, a black pustule in the brick work.

Heusden, once the locus of fierce and bloody battles, is today filled with autumn sunshine: dogs are slumbering in doorways and people are sitting in coffee houses. A few bicycles swish

NETHERLANDS

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NETHERLANDS

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ON A MAP THE NOW PEACEFUL TOWN OF HEUSDEN LOOKS LIKE A CARTOGRAHER'S DOODLE

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can hire a bike pretty much anywhere, at any hour. In the pecking order of traffic, bicycles come a firm first, followed by scooters, then electric cars, with motorcars trailing shamefacedly behind.

There are proper sectioned-off lanes, designated crossings, special traffic lights. Everybody, cycles, from newborns cocooned in slings on their pedalling parents’ chests, to octogenarians with their shopping.

My husband and I get our fix of urban wanderings, albeit at a hugely accelerated pace. Our youngest child shrieks into the wind from her cargo cabin; the other two are zooming ahead on their tandem; nobody is wearing a helmet and I try not to watch as my middle child is steered gleefully close to the water’s edge by her brother. Canals, cathedrals, windmills, cottages, cattle and lock gates whizz past. Nobody complains about tired legs and nobody demands a compensatory ice cream, not even once.

Several circuits of the town later, we lock up the bikes and take a boat around ’s-Hertogenbosch’s waterways, which thread themselves underneath the streets and buildings. The 14thcentury brick arches house colonies of slumbering bats and, as the boat slides along the dank water, flashes of blue sky appear down drains, plumblines of light reaching into the dark.

How can it be that, for the most part, tourists will go to the thronged streets of Amsterdam, but no farther? That they are yet to discover what lies only a couple of hours south of that city? On my return I am seized with a near-evangelical urge to grip my friends by the arms and say: “Go to the Netherlands. Quick, before everyone else does.”

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com

Credit: Maggie O’Farrell/The Times/News Licensing

along the cobbles, past the hollyhocks and green-painted front doors. A more peaceful place would be hard to find, but Heusden’s strategic position on the river has meant a chequered past: first the Spanish invaded, then the French and then the Nazis.

On a map the town looks like a cartographer’s doodle. Follow the Meuse inland and you’ll find wide, estuarial meanders until you come to a startling star-shaped blot in the middle of all that blue water. This is Heusden, constructed with defence in mind, ringed by moats and ravelins, trying in vain to keep out conquering armies.

As we stand on the town walls, gazing over the moat, my husband says: “If this place was in Tuscany it would be mobbed.” He has a point. Heusden is remarkably beautiful and bafflingly empty. We take a boat up the Meuse, we wander the narrow streets, we admire the creaking sails of the windmill, we buy cloth mice at the toyshop, we have pancakes at the café, all the while encountering barely another tourist.

It’s hard to imagine a more perfect place than Brabant for a family holiday.

The landscape is straight from a Breugel painting, with flat fields, dykes, windmills and grazing cows.

As well as Efteling, there is the newly opened holiday camp of Beeske Bergen Safari Park, where you can have breakfast on a terrace next to herds of impala and wildebeest, and briefly pretend you’re in Tanzania. The ranger who drives us around to see the giraffe calf and the lemurs, which have an entertaining penchant for climbing on anyone wearing a backpack, confirms that the park hardly gets any visitors further afield. “I don’t know why,” she says with a shrug.

Did I mention the joy of family cycling? If, like us, you have exited the buggy years, a relaxing stroll around a historical town centre can be fraught.

Children are not natural flâneurs and in the face of a city amble tend to stage early mutinies, citing exhaustion and/ or malnutrition. In the unusually punctuated town of ’s-Hertogenbosch, however, we hit on the solution: hire a cargo bike for the smallest child, a tandem for the other two, and off we go.

Dutch streets are a cyclist’s dream. You

This page: Heusden, designed with potential This page:inSoft, invaders mind colourful corals around Lizard Island

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ST LUCIA

Local markets, spicy food and real people to mingle with: selfcatering in St Lucia is your key to getting a true taste of Caribbean life, says Liz Edwards

worldtravellermagazine.com 49

ad it all been a terrible mistake?

As I lay awake for too much of our first night on St Lucia, I couldn’t help wondering. Because although I had made sure that our cottage — cute and characterful on a former plantation estate — came with a kitchen, I had neglected to check it would actually have windows. We had bars for security, floaty curtains for modesty and mozzie nets for sanity.

But amid dense greenery and without glass, our bedroom came with a megadecibel lullaby. In lieu of sleep, we had a drumbeat downpour, we had singing cicadas, we had countless croaks and ribbits and — bai-ee-ai — the full, fortissimo frog chorus. We all groaned together. But my husband was so cross — irate of the Caribbean — he couldn’t even relish his ‘I told you so’ moment.

It had all made perfect sense to me back home. On European holidays, I’d reasoned, we loved the villa thing — stocking up at the market, chatting with the grannies over the shopping basket, hanging out with villagers in the nearest bar. This time we’d do all that, just in tropical temperatures in the Caribbean.

And with less bling than Barbados and less edge than Jamaica, St Lucia would be the easiest, friendliest, safest Caribbean island for us to get a taste of local life.

My husband was sceptical. He’d visited the mountainous island in a former life as a brochure writer and knew its strengths as the honeymoon favourite, all discreet service and petal-strewn romance. I’d convinced him we could find something more authentic than a hermetically sealed resort, make a more natural connection with the island than we would on a hotel excursion.

We’d stay in the less-developed south, self-cater, self-drive, self-congratulate.

And yet here we were, wishing for some of that lovely hermetic sealing.

Predictably, as we emerged the next morning from our shrub-surrounded cottage into the sunlight, things looked brighter. We were staying on Balenbouche Estate, an old coffee plantation in the south of the island that’s now a hybrid of organic farm, heritage site and accommodation — ours was one of a

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handful of cottages dotted around the Deep South-y grounds. Broad lawns flowed between magnificent mango, banyan and flame trees; an old rum still sat here, a rustic cotton barn there; waterlily ponds ran alongside a path to one of the estate’s wild beaches.

Hummingbirds and finches flitted; there were cats, dogs, cows and horses — and at the centre of it all were the lovely 19th century wooden plantation house and Uta Lawaetz, the hippy-fierce, Austrian-born woman who’s kept the place going since the 1980s, when her former father-in-law owned it. As we listened to her stories over breakfast on her breeze-cooled verandah that morning (our own cupboards still bare), it all began to feel rather romantic and heartwarming and natural.

And things were about to look brighter still. An overseas supermarket is a thing of joy, isn’t it? Shopping becomes a brilliant treasure hunt for comedy brand names, unfamiliar packaging, what’s-that-for? ingredients, who’sthat-for? flavours. I love it, and I loved Massy Stores, 15 minutes’ drive east of the cottage. The big fruit ’n’ veg section was awash with all kinds of roots, sea moss and ‘Vel’s Mauby Bark’ (still no idea). We weren’t surprised to find a million barbecue and hot pepper sauces (we bought fearsome Viking, the local brand), but were taken aback to see Essential Waitrose olives, Bovril, Dorset Cereals and Branston Pickle. A cornflakes pack came with a recipe for Chicken Party Salad (very ’70s dinner party); Best of all, we found Alma at the till. Scanning the contents of our enthusiastically loaded trolley, she had plenty of time to let us pick her brains about St Lucian ways to spend our week.

We should go to the Choiseul craft centre just beyond Balenbouche to buy straw hats and clay pots, she said; to Soufrière market for island- grown fruit, veg and herbs. She sucked her teeth when I asked if there was a less touristy alternative to the Sulphur Springs volcanic mud baths: ‘Those baths keep me looking young.

You might see me there this weekend!’

Tips noted, groceries decanted, it was — finally! — beach time. We’d already

ST LUCIA

spotted a likely suspect; 10 minutes east of Balenbouche we nosed the car off the main road and down into Laborie (‘Labree’), a drowsy wee town that was big on its street names: Dame Pearlette Louisy Drive, Martin Luther King Street, Elvis Presley Boulevard. And the beach? You might not spot it in the brochures — one too many fondant-fancy houses on the lush hills around the bay, perhaps; no hotel staff to rake the sand — but it was no scrub. Half a dozen little motorboats bobbed prettily in the shallows, palms leant protectively over the sand from between fishing shacks and sea almond trees. We paddled, sandcastled and swam, the beach our own, frog chorus forgotten. Lunch — grilled-fish wraps — was a few metres away at palmthatched Salt Rush Café, where the only other customers were Stuart and Wendy from Alberta, house-sitting for a friend on the island and back here at Salt Rush for the fifth time in a fortnight. They’d been to the volcano, visited the botanic gardens, but were happier here contemplating the horizon.

I asked Wilson, the guy in charge, if it was always this quiet. ‘Sometimes quieter in the day,’ he shrugged. ‘But it’ll be different this evening...’

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BROAD LAWNS FLOWED BETWEEN MAGNIFICENT MANGO, BANYAN AND FLAME TREES

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With that, Wilson had saved us a long, twisty drive in the dark. Friday evenings on St Lucia, as on other Caribbean islands, mean Fish Fry — time for a barbecuefuelled street party. A few towns do them; the one in Gros Islet sounded cheesy so I’d earmarked Anse la Raye, a 90-minute wiggle up the west-coast road, as St Lucia’s best local-tinged bet.

But there was no need to go that far.

Laborie’s monthly Fish Fry was tonight.

And a very casual, community-spirited affair it was —with twerk-along sound systems turned up past 11. Even shouted conversation was tricky, so I did well to make out the verdict from Brad, my picnic-bench neighbour: ‘The fish is better at Gros Islet but you get lots of tourists! Laborie is for St Lucians!’ We

grazed on grilled fish, pork stew, savoury doughnut ‘bakes’. There was ‘fig salad’, a mix of tuna and green banana — like that ancient Yellow Pages TV ad with the bloke ordering pizza for his pregnant wife — which actually tasted excellent (moral: never doubt the pregnant lady). At half-nine we called it a night; we’d had enough of the volume, though my husband found the silver lining: ‘Maybe the tinnitus will drown out the frogs.’

That wasn’t the last we saw of Laborie, but we did explore other bits of the island, too. You’ll spot the twin Piton peaks on everything from beer labels to the masonic-looking national flag, but you’re probably not allowed to leave without seeing the west-coast icons in the pointy, jungle-clad flesh.

Luckily they’re quite big, so we didn’t have to switchback too far up the west coast before they began sliding in and out of our windshield view.

Petit Piton certainly looked pretty impressive looming up behind the seafront at Soufrière. Either we arrived too late to see its streetside market in full flow or it was having an off day (whereas Alma’s tip about Sulphur Springs, a few miles back, Opening pages: grilled prawn salad; climbing a tree against the backdrop of a fiery sunset This page: Petit Piton above Margretoute Bay

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HALF THE FUN WE HAD IN ST LUCIA WAS DRIVING THE TWISTY ROADS AND WAVING BACK AT GRANNIES LEANING GOSSIP-READY ON THEIR VERANDAH RAILS day charters on the restored Great Expectation, a historic Carriacou trading sloop; owners James and Pepsi also run a training scheme for local youngsters to help them out of unemployment.

As a means of wrapping some heritage and social responsibility up in a rather lovely, lazy afternoon, their sunset cruise was hard to argue with.

James, Pepsi and a scheme graduate, OB, chatted sailing, history and potent punches as we tacked across the bay, the boat tilting 45 degrees one way then 45 degrees the other. Pepsi said that out here they were often treated to a green flash, that optical effect as the sun finally slips over the horizon.

That day, moody tufts of cloud framed the sinking sun — and hooray, a pop of green like a magician’s flourish.

It was wonderfully relaxing; of course it was. But quite honestly, half the fun we had in St Lucia was driving its

’

twisty roads, waving back at grannies leaning gossip-ready on their verandah rails. We’d crank up the country and western on the radio (St Lucians love it), stop at random roadside joints, and follow our noses down little tracks to Piaye and other empty beaches. We even found we’d grown fond of (or used to) Balenbouche’s eccentricities.

We assumed the teeny tree frogs in the sink and the doorstop-like toad in the corridor were doing their bit to keep mozzie populations down.

We supplemented our supermarket breakfast with mangoes collected from the lawn. We felt more immersed in the island’s nature than we would have in a pest-controlled, manicured resort. So maybe we could do without windows after all. No pane, no gain?

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com

Credit: Liz Edwards/The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/News Licensing

was a goodie — we shared its murky 30C waters with visitors and St Lucians, and left feeling soothed and smoothed). But one vendor did show me the Creole way to drink from a green coconut — the top machete’d off flat (no Piton-pointy whittling), and no straw. What price dignity when authenticity and singleuse plastics are at stake, I thought nobly, as it dribbled down my chin.

But the best view of the Pitons came 600m above sea level at Tet Paul, a community-run nature trail through an organic farm, where we learnt a bit of history, and a bit about local produce, medicinal plants and other exotic flora — but mainly gawped at the sight of both Pitons rearing up dramatically from the sea. The beer label hadn’t done them justice. But my husband still had amphibians on his mind: ‘They’re like giant toads emerging from a pond.’

The furthest north we got was Rodney Bay, where the topography was less crumpled, and life more obviously tourism-focused. The yachtfilled marina, especially, felt a world away from creaky Balenbouche and homespun Tet Paul, but it was another community enterprise that brought us here. Keen to get out on the water, I’d found Jus’ Sail, a company offering

ST LUCIA

Opposite: taking a break, St Lucia style This page: a starfish lazes on Reduit Beach

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AROUND THE WORLD IN 60 YEARS

Book at dnatatravel.com call 800 DNATA (36282) or speak to us in-store Download our app

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Weekends

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Staycations and short-haul escapes

SOARING SKILLS Located in the world’s largest sand desert, the Empty Quarter in Abu Dhabi, Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara beckons all those who want to get closer to nature. Here you can slow down the pace and take part in the many desert activities on offer, such as watching a falcon and saluki take part in a thrilling faux hunt across the dunes. worldtravellermagazine.com 55

WEEKENDS

Reasons to go back to…

AMMAN

A city of fascinating contrasts, explore the old and new in Jordan’s diverse and dynamic capital Suite moments Add the ultimate wow factor to your trip with a night or two at W Amman. Check into a cool Corner Suite with fab city views or hold out for the new signature top floor experience set to debut this summer.

Choose from the Wow Suite or E Wow Suite featuring a DJ booth, cocktail bar, Jacuzzi, huge living spaces and, of course, panoramic floor to ceiling city vistas.

City snapshot Keen photographers and guests of Four Seasons Hotel Amman can explore the city behind the lens in the company of former official palace photographer Zohrab Markarian. Join him for a tour of top landmarks including the Citadel, Old Souk, and 2,000-year-old Roman amphitheatre. He'll share his photography tips, and plenty of local insight, over a cup of Jordanian tea.

Corner Suite, W Amman

Al Balad Theatre/ Raed Asfour

Street art scene Cultural graffiti art is popping up across the city, with blank canvas walls permanently transformed into vibrant artworks thanks to the annual Baladk Street & Urban Art Festival, which has been beautifying local communities since 2013. Check out talented local Jordanian artists and international guest graffitists as you wander through the capital’s neighbourhoods. al-balad.org

Cook like granny Learn how to whip up a feast of Middle Eastern dishes, from falafel and kousa to mandi and more, at Beit Sitti cooking school in Jabal al Weibdeh, one of Amman’s oldest neighbourhoods. Established by three sisters to honour their grandmother’s culinary legacy, sign up for a cook and dine session with a four-course menu using seasonal vegetables and locally sourced produce. Be sure to pick up some pomegranate molasses and olive oil at the shop. beitsitti.com 56 worldtravellermagazine.com

Running until 8 June 2019

long weekend

Paris

the

Home to cafĂŠ-lined boulevards, vibrant culture and fabulous food, the City of Lights is in a league of its own

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THE LONG WEEKEND

Long considered the epicentre of fashion, art, culture, gastronomy and romance, the French capital needs no introduction. From elegant boulevards and world-class museums to Michelin-starred cuisine and effortlessly chic locals, the city has an undeniable je ne sais quoi that beguiles even the most seasoned visitor.

Paris is home to nearly a dozen ‘palace hotels’ – ultra high-end properties whose amenities surpass those of five-star hotels – including the Ritz Paris and the Peninsula Paris.

The former is home to 142 rooms resplendent with Louis XV furnishings and marble fireplaces, along with two Michelin-starred restaurants and the world's first Chanel spa. The latter, meanwhile, is just steps from the Champs Elysées with 200 sumptuous rooms and some of the best views in town from the top-floor restaurant.

Hoping to join the elite club is the newly renovated Hotel Lutetia. the only grande dame on the Left Bank. The historic hotel features 184 contemporary rooms, along with a subterranean spa, sun-lit swimming pool and brasserie overseen by three-Michelin-star chef Gérald Passedat.

A perennial favourite of ours is Le Royal Monceau, Raffles Paris, which boasts stunning suites designed

by Philippe Starck.

Split by the Seine into two halves – the Right and Left banks – Paris is further divided into 20 Arrondissements (districts), each with their own style and atmosphere.

On the Right Bank, the upmarket 1st Arrondissement is home to iconic sights such as the Louvre and 17th-century Tuileries Garden, while the Champs-Elysées is the heart of the exclusive 8th Arrondissement. Spread across the 3rd and 4th Arrondissements, the Marais is one of the trendiest neighbourhoods in town.

On the Left Bank lies the elegant 6th and 7th Arrondissements, where you’ll find historic pavement cafés and big-hitters like Musée d’Orsay, Musée Rodin and the Eiffel Tower. The 5th Arrondissement, meanwhile, is home to the Latin Quarter and the famous Sorbonne University.

And as the city celebrates the 130th anniversary of the Eiffel Tower and 350 years of the Paris Opera in 2019, there’s never been a better time to visit. Here’s how to do Paris in style…

best bistros

Opposite: Eiffel Tower © Paris Tourist Office.

This page top to bottom: Cafe culture © Paris Tourist Office; Hotel Lutetia

Eat like a Parisian in a cosy neighbourhood bistro

STYLISH SLEEPS

Find the perfect place to sleep in the French capital For those who crave a more intimate experience, Maison Armance recently opened in the 1st Arrondissement, feels like your own Parisian piedà-terre. There are just 20 rooms with parquet floors and soothing shades of dusty pink or duck egg blue, while the top-floor lounge has dreamy views

over the city’s rooftops.

Moored on the Left Bank of the Seine, OFF Paris Seine is Paris's first boat hotel and a favourite with Instagrammers, thanks to its plunge pool (complete with inflatable gold swans). It is home to 58 sleek rooms, but the buzzy poolside lounge-bar is the draw.

ASTAIR Opened last year in the Passage des Panoramas, this glamorous yet unpretentious spot – think rattan chairs, bowtied waiters and a smooth jazz soundtrack – boasts a menu by three-star chef Gilles Goujon. Aim for a cosy corner table.

BENOIT Dating back to 1912, this one-Michelinstarred spot looks like the quintessential Parisian bistro: crisp white tablecloths, red velvet chairs and polished woodwork. Enjoy classic French fare such as escargots swimming in garlic butter.

MENSAE This modern bistro in the Belleville neighbourhood favours Scandi style over redchecked tablecloths, while Korean chef Jun-sik Cho’s menu is full of twists-on-classics. The prix fixé menus offer exceptional value. worldtravellermagazine.com 59

culture f ix Home to some 150 museums, Paris is one of the undisputed arts capitals of the world.

Of course you have to visit the Louvre; 15,000 people file past the Mona Lisa every day, but you can beat the crowds by visiting during the late-night openings on Wednesdays and Fridays. Housing the largest collection of impressionist art in the world, the Musée d’Orsay is another must-see, while you can get your modern and contemporary art fix at the Centre Pompidou.

Make time for smaller museums and galleries, such as the Jean Nouveldesigned Institut du Monde Arabe, which showcases treasures from the Arab world, and L’Atelier des Lumières, which features a new immersive digital exhibition on Vincent van Gogh.

The Fondation Louis Vuitton, meanwhile, is currently exhibiting 110 Impressionist masterpieces from the collection of English industrialist Samuel Courtauld (until June 17).

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HAUTE CUISINE L'Astrance Book well ahead for a table at chef Pascal Barbot’s two-Michelinstarred spot in the 16th Arrondissement, which seats just 25 diners. Then look forward to a tasting menu that combines modern French cuisine with influences from the Far East. astrancerestaurant.com Ducasse sur Seine One of France’s most iconic chefs has opened his latest restaurant on a sleek riverboat. Opt for lunch to see the sights, or float by night to see the lights, while you dine on classic dishes such as chilled lobster and pan-seared lamb. ducasse-seine.com Arpège Alain Passard has retained his three Michelin stars at this restaurant near the Musée Rodin for more than two decades.

His vegetable-driven menu features produce from his own organic garden, with dishes like vegetable arlequin jardinière with argan oil semolina. alain-passard.com

This page from top to bottom: Arpège; Galerie Véro-Dodat © Paris Tourist Office; Musée du Louvre © Paris Tourist Office.

Opposite, from top: a flea market; Gang of Earlybirds

elegant arcades At the turn of the 19th century, Paris was home to more than 200 passages couverts (covered arcades) lined with fashionable shops and cafés. Today around 20 remain, with many found in the 2nd Arrondissement.

Passage des Panoramas, off Boulevard Montmartre, should be your first stop. Home to philately shops and vintage postcard dealers, the city’s oldest arcade has been revitalised with the

opening of Astair [see Best Bistros]. Cross the road to Passage Jouffroy, where sunlight streams through the glass roof, and treat yourself to coffee and cake at Le Valentin. Continue on to the exquisitely restored Galerie Vivienne to admire the mosaic floor and browse

high-end boutiques such as Jean-Paul Gaultier and Nathalie Garçon. Pop into nearby Galerie Colbert to marvel at its beautiful glass dome, then finish up in Galerie Véro-Dodat, which boasts a black-and-white tiled floor and Christian Louboutin boutique.

THE LONG WEEKEND

MARVELLOUS MARKETS

Trawling for treasures or stocking up on gourmet goodies in one of Paris’s many markets is a great way to spend a couple of hours. Founded in 1870, Marché aux Puces St-Ouen is the largest of the city’s famed flea markets. Open from Saturday to Monday, the sprawling market is a must-visit for art and design lovers, with more than 2,000 stalls selling antiques, mid-century furniture, paintings and bric-a-brac. Foodies, meanwhile, should make a beeline for Marché Bastille. Open from Thursday to Sunday, there are more than 150 stalls piled high with local produce and seasonal specialities like truffles. For a quick lunch in between boutique hopping in the Marais, pop into Marché des Enfants Rouges (closed Mondays).

Opened in 1615, the covered market has stalls serving multi-cuisine, ready-to-eat dishes.

Words: Lara Brunt

ask a local Lena Drevermann, blogger at Salut from Paris (salutfromparis. com), shares her top tips for exploring the city “The first piece of advice I'd give to visitors is to walk as much as you can (and wear trainers). The Metro is a great way to get around, but real Parisian life happens above ground. From stunning 19th-century Haussmann architecture and iconic sidewalk cafés to the latest street style – to discover the best of Paris, simply walk.

The Belleville neighbourhood, meanwhile, is my favourite hidden gem in the city. The northeastern district is often overlooked, but can definitely compete with the famous Montmartre; the views over Paris are equally wonderful and the village style is super cute – without the crowds. For a memorable meal, book a table at Afaria, a Basque Country-influenced restaurant in the 15th Arrondissement. The tapas are excellent, but don’t miss their signature Magret de canard rôti.”

STYLISH SHOPPING

Nous Founded in 2018 by ex-Colette employees, this achingly cool boutique on posh Rue Cambon specialises in streetwear, exclusive watches and high-tech gadgets. You can also stock up on limited edition Adidas trainers. nous.paris L’Appartement Sézane For effortless French-girl style without breaking the bank, head to this millennial pink-hued showroom in the chic Grands Boulevards district. The cult fashion label is renowned for its laidback, feminine aesthetic – think boho dresses, silk shirts and rope-soled espadrilles. sezane.com Printemps This iconic department store on Boulevard Haussmann is the go-to place for luxury fashion, Swing

by La Scent Room for exclusive perfumes, and

don’t miss the new food hall dedicated to French gastronomy. printempsfrance.com Gang of Earlybirds Founded by a former buyer at Lanvin, this hip boutique in the Marais stocks the best up-andcoming international designers such as Mara Hoffman and Simon Miller. The store features a carefully curated selection of women’s ready-towear, accessories

and jewellery. gangofearlybirds.com Merci In the same neighbourhood, this sprawling three-level concept store is housed in a former factory and boasts an eclectic edit of homewares, men’s and women’s fashion, beauty products, stationery and more.

Just look for the Insta-famous red Fiat parked out front. merci-merci.com

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WORLD TRAVELLER X DCT ABU DHABI

THREE WAYS TO EXPERIENCE ABU DHABI...

Artistic inspiration

Explore the UAE capital's eclectic arts scene, from contemporary gallery showcases to cultural pop-ups, and snapshots of history with a global perspective

1

Project Warehouse. Yas Island welcomes back the popular Festember pop-up event with a vibrant celebration of contemporary culture covering art, cuisine, fashion and design, from 15-18 May. Art themes for 2019 range from female empowerment to rural Emirati populations with local and international artists taking part in the four-day event. Los Angeles-based artist Oliver Coreaux is flying in to handpaint a collection of luxury handbags and accessories with a visual collage comprised of text and symbols.

Louvre Abu Dhabi.

The museum's first photography exhibition explores the development of this fascinating art form from its earliest beginnings.

Entitled 'Photographs 1842 – 1896: An Early Album of the World', the exhibition features

Photo: Project Warehouse by Festember

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250 images from across the globe including Saudi Arabia, Egypt, India and the Philippines. The works on show mainly originate from Musée du Quai Branly – Jacques Chirac’s collection, which includes some of the earliest photographs produced outside of Europe.

Warehouse421. A hub for regional talent, this Mina Zayed located gallery is showcasing six forms of writing as part of its Nomadic Traces: Journeys of Arabian Scripts exhibition. Works by nine GCC and Levantine artists are on show, including 'Yad'

by Margherita Abi Hanna, which draws on the abstract, simple geometry of ancient Phoenician text to Khalid Mezaina's 'If Speech Is Silver' piece, featuring a trio of Musnad and Aramaic printed textiles with silver as the starting inspiration.

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Extend your journey with World Traveller magazine by heading online to read more inspirational and exclusive travel content and take advantage of upto-the-minute hotel and holiday features

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WORLD TRAVELLER X SONEVA

Slide into paradise

Jet off on an exclusive Eid AlFitr escape to Soneva Fushi and Soneva Jani in Maldives, where guests from the Gulf are in for a special treat

*Terms and conditions apply.

Soneva Jani

BEST FOR FAMILIES: SONEVA FUSHI Embrace castaway style simplicity and kick off your shoes for an exquisite barefoot luxury experience at this tropical hideaway that sits jungle style within the Baa Atoll UNESCO Biosphere Reserve. Just 30-40 minutes via seaplane from the international airport, Soneva Fushi appeals to the whole family with its stellar line-up of activities, from manta ray snorkelling trips to dolphin cruises. There’s a full gamut of dining experiences to enjoy, from a meal prepared by a visiting Michelin-starred chef to a favourful Arabic spread enjoyed in the privacy of your villa.

Soneva Children’s Camp is sure to entice little ones out of their shell by offering them the chance to try something new, from nighttime island safaris to coconut oil making, glassblowing and much more. Younger ones will adore the Den, where they can launch themselves into the weekly programme of activities designed to inspire the mind.

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BEST FOR GOURMANDS: SONEVA JANI Home of the famous over-water villas with water slides (you must have seen the incredible drone footage), Soneva Jani in the Noonu Atoll is a 45-minute seaplane flight from Malé International Airport, or a 60-minute speedboat ride from Soneva Fushi.

This playful resort is an Instagrammers dream due to the sparkling sapphire-hued lagoon that surrounds it, and the view just got even more tantalising thanks to the variety of cuisines that are being served during Eid Al-Fitr.

Soneva Fushi

Sample Middle Eastern favourites, delve into Japanese flavours, or taste crab cooked to perfection at new restaurant, The Crab Shack, which has a dreamily romantic setting on the beach.

Appetite satisfied, you’re free to take part in the many experiences on offer, from snorkelling with manta rays to an Ayurvedic treatments at the overwater Soneva Spa while the kids get busy at the Den and Soneva Children’s Camp.

GCC residents can stay for seven nights and pay for just five (or four and pay for three), with lots of added extras included*.

To find out more, visit soneva.com

WORLD TRAVELLER X THE ST. REGIS ABU DHABI

STAYCATION

The St. Regis Abu Dhabi Enjoy an exquisite stay at the Iconic Nation Towers in the heart of the Abu Dhabi Corniche THE ROOMS & SUITES A room with a breathtaking view is the hallmark of this landmark Corniche facing hotel, where each of its 283 rooms and signature suites drink in the iconic city skyline. Watch the sun rise and set from the signature Manhal Suite, or any one of the rooms with a view. A dedicated, on-call butler and stand-out design touches, such as standalone bath tubs, further elevate the experience.

THE FOOD Ramadan flavours headline the culinary offering in May, with the world's highest suspended suite the setting for Iftar in the Sky, offering a selection of traditional Arabian delicacies, a dedicated dessert room and inspiring live music. In addition, the Terrace on the Corniche will take you on a voyage of discovery across the region, with live cooking stations and traditional flavours.

THE ACTIVITIES Find inner peace in the sanctuary of Remède Spa, with top to toe treatments for sublime rejuvenation. Try a bespoke facial in the expert hands of a Balinese trained therapist, or enjoy a signature customised massage featuring a choice of exquisite aromatherapy blends and luxurious products that guarantee a restorative all-over glow. You'll leave ready to face the world with renewed zeal.

To find out more, call +971 2 694 4444 or visit stregisabudhabi.com 66 worldtravellermagazine.com

An Exquisite Eid Al-Fitr Staycation Celebrate Eid al-Fitr with a family staycation to create lasting memories. Live exquisite in one of our Superior Rooms or for the ultimate level of luxury upgrade to a Signature Suite. Located at the vibrant heart of Abu Dhabi with a 200 metre stretch of pristine beach, overlooking the turquoise waters of the Nation Riviera Beach Club at the finest address in the city.

Superior Room from AED 650* includes: Complimentary upgrade to Sea View Room (subject to availability), AED 200 restaurant dining credit, breakfast and 4:00 pm late checkout.

Signature Suites from AED 1200* includes: AED 400 restaurant dining credit, breakfast and 4:00 pm late checkout.

Book one room and save 50% on the second room.

Perfect for families, connecting rooms available (subject to availability) *All prices are in UAE Dirham and are exclusive of all applicable service charges, local fees and taxes.

Š2019 Marriott International, Inc. All Rights Reserved. Preferred Guest, SPG, St. Regis and their logos are the trademarks of Marriott International, Inc., or its affiliates.

The St. Regis Abu Dhabi Abu Dhabi, United Arab Emirates t. +971 2 694 4444 stregisabudhabi.com

Stay exquisite at more than 40 St. Regis hotels and resorts worldwide. @stregishotels

WORLD TRAVELLER X JW MARRIOTT MARQUIS DUBAI

STAYCATION

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai Rise to the top at the world's tallest five-star hotel ROOMS & SUITES This lofty hotel has ample space to welcome guests. Its 1,608 guestrooms and suites have luxurious finishings – think marble bathrooms with rain showers and oversized tubs – and views of the glittering skyline or Dubai Water Canal. Families can book a suite and spread out in two separate living and sleeping areas. Room service is available around the clock.

THE FOOD There are 15 award-winning restaurants and bars here, each serving memorable dining experiences including steakhouse Prime68, and Japanese restaurant Izakaya. The latest addition, Masala Library by Jiggs Kalra, will bowl you over with dishes derived from ancient and modern recipes and from every region of India. We heartily recommend you indulge in the great value tasting menu.

THE ACTIVITIES The hotel is close to many top attractions, but there are lots of perks that'll tempt you to linger for longer at the property. Take a dip in the sparkling outdoor swimming pool or, for a spot of pampering, head to Saray Spa, which is home to the UAE's only Dead Sea floatation pool. Try the Saray Golden Hammam, which includes a decadent skin massage using 24-karat gold.

To find out more, call +971 4 414 3000 or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com 68 worldtravellermagazine.com

Inspiration. Expertly crafted.

Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai, the world’s tallest 5-star hotel, is centrally located beside the Dubai Water Canal and offers a spectrum of facilities and services for a seamless experience. The hotel features: 1,608 luxurious guest rooms and suites, over 15 award-winning restaurants and lounges, Saray Spa featuring traditional hammams, a Dead Sea Floatation Pool and 17 treatment rooms, state-of-the-art health club and fitness facilities, as well as 8,000 sqm of spectacular meeting spaces.

JW Marriott® Marquis® Hotel Dubai jwmarriott.com/DXBJW Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com

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INSPIRED BY

Reader offers Great deals to get you packing

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4 FANTASTIC HOLIDAYS 1

SWITZERLAND

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Includes: Stay for 7 nights and experience the GoldenPass Line, Glacier Express, Bernina Express, Gotthard Panorama Express, excursion to Jungfraujoch. Includes over night accommodation in Interlaken, Montreux, Zermatt, St Moritz, Lugano and Lucerne.

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7 nights starting from USD1,450 per person

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Valid from: Now until 31 May 2019. worldtravellermagazine.com 71

DNATA TRAVEL OFFERS

Eastern Mangroves Hotel & Spa by Anantara

WEEKEND ESCAPES UAE

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Kempinski Hotel Muscat

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W AMMAN HOTEL 3 nights starting from USD345 per person Includes: Stay 3 nights in a Spectacular Sky Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers.

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On the website you can also sign up to the dnata newsletter and receive more offers direct to your inbox. T&Cs apply.

Book at dnatatravel.com call 800 DNATA (36282) or speak to us in-store Download our app

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Holidays starting from US$1425.00 Year round savings available, check with us.

THROUGH THE LENS Galata neighbourhood in Istanbul, Turkey "To me, Istanbul is one of the most beautiful cities in the world; there's always something interesting going on around you wherever you are. Even if you're visiting the same place twice, every time it'll look different than the day before. I was in a meeting when I witnessed this view and I couldn't resist; I stood up in the middle of the conversation to capture its enrapturing beauty. The originality of the photo is what makes it so special to me. Being such a magical city, Istanbul is filled with photographers in every nook and corner; finding a different angle to capture is always the most fulfilling."

Lifestyle photographer, Zeyad Abouzeid, loves to travel because "travelling is not just about exploring new places around you, but also ones inside you." @zeyadabouzeid

EMAIL US YOUR BEST TRAVEL PHOTOS in high-res jpeg format, along with the stories behind them to habiba@hotmediapublishing. com and you may end up being featured on this page

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Stay up-to-date with all that’s happening on our social channels and join in the conversation by sharing your experiences. Here’s where you can find us…

@dnataworldtraveller Double tap our dreamy destination shots and tag us in your images for a chance to feature on our wall. @worldtravellermagazine Stay up to date with travel stories as we post them. @WT_Magazine Make the most of your 280-character allowance by sharing your best travel moments with us. #dnataworldtraveller

A two-night stay at Jumeirah Al Wathba Desert Resort & Spa Immerse yourself in Emirati tradition in Abu Dhabi’s desert hinterland at this sprawling 22,000sqm resort. Quintessential Jumeirah luxury is woven into a desert village aesthetic that exudes oasis vibes, from its 103 stone-walled rooms and villas to its destination spa, desert camp dining and backdrop of towering sand dunes. To find out more and to enter, visit worldtravellermagazine.com/win (terms & conditions apply).

TRAVEL INSPO AT YOUR FINGERTIPS Let our travel news and round-ups, available to read on our website, inspire your next trip…

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The Knowledge.

Read our handy how-tos, from getting to grips with travel insurance to helping kids beat jet lag, and more.

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Staycations.

Take a peek inside these top hotels and resorts on your doorstep and then book your next mini break!

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Insider Guides.

Check out our in-the-know travel edits of some of the most popular holiday destinations on our radar.

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Suite dreams Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a suite that has a character and style all of its own

Diamond Suite

Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo

Swing open the shutters of this sparkling suite and drink in the views of Monaco's glamorous port and the rock. It's one of 12 Pierre-Yves Rochon designed Diamond Suites at the famous Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo, which was built in the early 1900s, and epitomises the carefree elegance of France’s Belle Époque era.

The 121 square metre abode can accommodate up to five people, with two bedrooms, a separate sitting room, and no less than two balconies, so everyone can enjoy the stunning vista. It's what Monaco dreams are made of.

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A Reflection of True Ramadan Hospitality.

Experience this auspicious occasion at the world’s tallest 5-star hotel with three delectable Iftar options from sunset until 8.30pm AL FANOUS LOUNGE AT DUBAI BALLROOM Iftar buffet, AED 199 per person AWARD-WINNING KITCHEN6 International Iftar buffet, AED 215 per person MASALA LIBRARY BY JIGGS KALRA Unique Indian Iftar set-menu, from AED 195 per person CORPORATE IFTARS Available upon request for exclusive hire and group inquiries of more than 50 people.

For bookings below 50 guests, call +971.4.414.3000 or email jwmmrr@marriott.com For Corporate Iftars above 50 guests, call +971.4.414.2000 or email jwmarquis.dubai@marriott.com

Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE T + 971 4 414 3000 I jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com jwmarriottmarquisdubai I jwdubaimarquis jwmarriottmarquisdubai I #ramadanwithmarriott