World Traveller November'16

The Region’s BiggesT LuxuRy TR av eL Magazine

issue one hundred and Three | november 2016

Complimentary Copy

Patagonia Tread a wintry wilderness on the trail of South America’s most elusive wildcat

Produced in International Media Production Zone

brazil

Venture beyond Rio to discover all the wonder, drama and colours of the south

sweden

A vacation on the run in Scandinavia's postcardperfect capital of cool

indonesia

Extraordinary beaches, endless rice paddies and year-round surf on the island of Bali

We’re setting the scene for landmark celebrations in Dubai with a collection of over 30 festive and New Year’s Eve experiences across four iconic destinations.

Choose the ones closest to your heart and capture the limelight all through the festive season! habtoorcityhotels.com

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Welcome

November 2016

Editor’s Note

November 2016 Issue one hundred and Three Managing Director Victoria Thatcher Editorial Director John Thatcher Group Commercial Director David Wade Editor Hayley Skirka Sub-Editor Emma Laurence Art Director Andy Knappett Designer Emi Dixon Illustrations Tommy Parker, Adam Avery, Sonny Ros, Antra Svarcs Business Development Manager Rabih El Turk rabih@hotmediapublishing.com +971 4 369 0915 Production Manager Muthu Kumar

With the season shifting ever s0 slightly towards winter, our thoughts are turning to outdoor ventures, orange sunsets, navy skies and crisp desert air. Here in Dubai the weather may be mild, but this month still brings with it a time of colours, campfires, comfort food and cosiness.

Using the shades of November as our travel inspiration, we immerse ourselves in the kaleidoscopic cultural scene that is Barcelona before uncovering the blue and white secrets of Athens’ architectural tapestry – where delightfully quaint houses depict the bright foams of the Aegean Sea. Answering plenty of questions, we explore the glistening harlequin of the Maldives, as crayon-coloured beneath the water as it is above. And Patagonia’s wintry setting is the perfect scene for a sighting of South America’s most elusive big cat; join us on a butterfly-inducing trail of the puma, atop a blanket of crystal-white snow.

Keeping a handle on all things local, we uncover the secrets of Singapore, garnering wisdom from those in the know when it comes to the island’s style, cultural and gourmet landscapes. We also discover a new way to see Stockholm, donning our running shoes for one of Earth’s most scenic marathons in a city of cool that’s steeped in Nordic mythology. And while the world’s attention may have shifted from Rio, we head south to uncover the magic away from Brazil’s capital.

After all that inspirology, your November should be looking positively psychedelic.

Life is a canvas – go colour it.

Hayley Skirka

hayley@hotmediapublishing.com

Jun-Dec 2015 | 22,984 | BPA Consumer Audit Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller.

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494

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feeling like a VIP that’s Kilban’s marhaba effect The difference is the staff. So caring.

I’m just an ordinary traveller but marhaba makes me feel like a VIP. With people like this, there is only one way you can go—up, up and up!

Kilban

Breeze through all the airport formalities with our meet & greet services in Dubai and Bahrain.

Whether you’re arriving, departing or transferring, marhaba meet & greet makes your time at the airport something to look forward to.

You can also relax in style, no matter what your airline or class of travel, at our lounges in Dubai and Bahrain.

Find your marhaba effect at marhabaservices.com

meet & greet | family packages | marhaba lounge | citystop | transfer service

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Contents

Contents

November 2016

P8-33

Spend a delectable 48 hours in Barcelona with our guide to the city’s best eats on page 68

Check In

Be Here Now................................... p8 As we roll into winter, discover ReykjavÍk’s best-kept secrets and wonder at the colourscape of mountain-surrounded Sichuan GloBetrotter............................ p13 Hidden Caribbean gems, steaming gourmet trends and the newest arrival on the hotel scene: our showcase of what’s hot in travel My City............................................ p18 Get under the skin of Zürich, a fairy-tale place enveloped by snow-covered mountain peaks CHef’s top taBles.....................p22 Chef Fulvio Pierangelini takes time out from transforming culinary offerings to give us his take on the best global eateries spotliGHt oN Bali................... p24 From dramatic rugged coastline to endless green paddy fields and sweeping stretches of sand, this is paradise found style & wellNess..................... p27 Arrive perfectly polished with our travel-style essentials and indulge your inner sense of Zen by stepping away from technology 5

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Contents

November 2016

P34-64

P65-80

Destinations

Weekends

ICONIC AmsterdAm...................p34 A vibrant buzz, pastel-coloured buildings and bridges aplenty, the Netherlands’ favourite city has it all

ONe weekeNd fOr All.......................... p66 A city of juxtapositions, where spectacular antiquities neighbour bustling eateries, Athens really does have something for everyone

PAtAgONIA.....................................p38 Find yourself in the crisp chill of Patagonia’s winter, where pristine lakes, jagged peaks and mysterious creatures await

48-hOur fOOdIe........................................ p68 As renowned for its cuisine as it is for its architecture, embrace Barcelona’s tapestry of tapas and indulge in a side of expert advice

BrAzIl............................................. p46 Discover Amazon rainforests, wetland wildlife and colonial cities on a rail journey set to stir the soul

the lOCAls’ guIde tO sINgAPOre... p70 From getaway islands to hidden galleries and stylish finds in the heart of downtown, we get the low-down on the Lion City’s secrets

stOCkhOlm...................................p52 See the capital of cool’s Gothic architecture, lakeside vistas and impeccably dressed residents from a different vantage

trAvel NOtes.............................................p72 Every place has a past and every sight a story; this issue we’re delving into history in Al Ain’s overgrown oasis

mAldIves....................................... p58 One family explores Soneva Fushi’s sunset-soaked retreat, where the only ripple in calm comes from their constantly curious kids

stAyCAtIONs............................................... p74 Escape it all and unwind with a short break. Our monthly look showcases the GCC hotels where memories are waiting to be made 6

JW MARRIOT T® MARQUIS DUBAI

Elevating Luxury to New Heights.

Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is centrally located beside the Dubai Water Canal. Offering a spectrum of facilities for the most discerning travellers, it is the ultimate destination of exceptional taste featuring an array of diverse restaurants and lounges.

1,608 LUXURIOUS GUEST ROOMS AND SUITES OVER 14 AWARD-WINNING RESTAURANTS AND LOUNGES SARAY SPA FEATURING TRADITIONAL HAMMAMS, 17 TREATMENT ROOMS AND A DEAD SEA FLOATATION POOL STATE-OF-THE-ART HEALTH CLUB AND FITNESS FACILITIES 8,000 SQM OF SPECTACULAR MEETING SPACES For more information please call +971 4 414 0000 or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com

Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971 4 414 0000, F +971 4 414 0001 | jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | @JWDubaiMarquis | JWMarriottMarquisDubai

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Be Here Now

November 2016

Be Here Now

Sichuan, China This month sees autumn turn to winter in China’s Sichuan province and, while temperatures may be chilly, the lack of both tourists and rain put it firmly on our visit list. Jiuzhaigou is one of China’s most beautiful nature reserves and, at this time of year, it’s a photographer’s dream as the deciduous leaves disappear, leaving the conifers, mountains, streams, lakes and ponds looking truly breathtaking. Expect a colour extravaganza as Five Flower Lake glistens in the winter sun, ancient fallen tree trunks clearly visible in the translucent waters. Days of easy walking surrounded by the beauty of nature are perfectly interposed with visits to ancient temples, monasteries and traditional Tibetan villages.

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Be Here Now

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November 2016

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Be Here xxxxNow

October 2016 November

Reykjavík, Iceland Iceland’s capital lures with the promise of snow-topped mountains, churning seas and crystal-fresh air – and, in November, Iceland Airwaves, an off-the-radar music festival that was born in an aeroplane hangar circa 1999. Music aside, prepare to fall in love with the Blue Lagoon, the city’s most famous natural landmark, which manages to evade the crowds at this time of year. There’s something magical about soaking in a steaming pod of geothermal tranquillity as the outside temperature hovers just above freezing. Arrive early to watch daylight creep in, transforming the lagoon into a kaleidoscopic masterpiece, and as night falls don’t forget to look up – the aurora borealis are at their most spectacular this month.

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October 2016 November

AL MAHA DESERT RESORT, DUBAI Al Maha Desert Resort, an oasis in the Arabian Desert.

A

ACTIVITIES

short 45 minutes drive

houses over 2,000 historic and rare

from Dubai and you arrive

pieces of artwork, weaponry, traditional

at this secluded haven

jewellery and Bedouin handicrafts,

Guests staying at the resort can enjoy

– Al Maha, A Luxury

making it an important repository.

two activities per night stay per person,

Collection Desert Resort & Spa, located within the 225-square kilometre alluring golden landscape of the Dubai Desert

these include Falconry, Horse Riding,

DINING

Conservation Reserve (DDCR). A rather

Nature walk in the Arabian Desert, Dune drives, Wildlife safari, Camel trekking and Archery.

uncomplicated 65 km drive along the

Dining at Al Maha is delightful culinary

Dubai –Al Ain road brings you to the

experience. Guests have a choice of

largest formally protected conservation

in-room dining or at the resort’s signa-

reserve in the Gulf, recognized interna-

ture restaurant – Al Diwan.

tionally.

For reservations, Arabesque-inspired interiors, give this

please call 971 4 832 9900 or visit

This luxury hide-away resort resembles

restaurant a warm and cosy feel and the

theluxurycollection.com/ALMAHA

a Bedouin encampment, offering both

open-air terrace offers stunning views of

leisure and business travellers matchless

the vast expanse of the desert.

hospitality, privacy and comfort, adding to the romance of the desert.

The cuisine in Al Maha is of a refined

Al Maha reflects old-style Arabian

repertoire offering eclectic timeless clas-

architecture with the largest private

sics curated to satisfy the palate of the

collection of original Arabian antiques

resort’s international clientele.

and artwork in the Gulf. The resort

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Globetrotter

November 2016

Globetrotter whether it’s bagging the finest views of abu dhabi’s Grand Prix, discovering the best-kept secret in the Caribbean, slurping lunch in a swanky soup bar or discovering the newest arrival on the hotel scene, we showcase what’s hot in travel this month…

Introducing…

The GaTeway ResoRT PushkaR ByPass ajmeR, RajasThan, IndIa

I

n an area rich with a history that stretches back to the Rajputs, the Mughals and the Marathas, the newest crown in Rajasthan’s architecture is The Gateway Resort Pushkar Bypass Ajmer by Taj Hotels.

Inspired by the culture and heritage of the northern Indian state, the beautiful pinksandstone hotel features private balconies and terraces, and traditional jhoola swings in every room. Local Bani Thani art decorates the interiors and you can get a taste of authentic India with Langa folk singers performing daily and bringing Rajasthan to life.

Take a dunk in the cool waters of the swimming pool, sunk into the expansive 13

courtyard, and enjoy views to the mountains beyond. De-stress in the calming spa with exceptional massage therapies or try a spot of in-room yoga. A visit to Rajasthan wouldn’t be complete without trying the authentic regional home-style delicacies it’s famous for, and at Aravali restaurant you can do just that.

The Gateway Resort is perfectly located for those on the spiritual trail in Ajmer or heading off on a pilgrimage to Pushkar, one of India’s oldest cities and the ‘rose garden’ of Rajasthan.

Don’t miss the colourfully chaotic Pushkar Ke Mela, the world’s largest camel fair, from 2 to 11 November – one of the country’s most highly rated travel experiences.

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Globetrotter

V S

November 2016

• Food for thought souP BaRs There was a time not so long ago when soup was something you only had when you were feeling a little under the weather, or had no time to cook.

Now, it’s become seriously fashionable thanks to an influx of swanky soup bars across the globe.

We round up a few of our favourite places to try winter’s hottest liquid asset London Not content with two bestselling cookbooks and a blog that gets around two million hits every month, Ella Woodward’s latest venture The MaE Deli serves up winter-warming soups that will keep you coming back for more.

Try the sweet potato and coconut served with toasted rye bread and houmous – divine.

New Delhi

Full of mystery, magic and mayhem, New Delhi is a chaotic tapestry thronging with people and ancient relics. Check into a palace or indulge with your own plunge pool: the choice is yours Taj PaLaCe new deLhI • What to expect?

A palatial retreat and an oasis of calm despite playing host to 403 rooms and suites, the Taj Palace offers the genuine warmth of Indian hospitality. Having been the choice for heads of state, dignitaries and high-profile visitors including the Dalai Lama for close to four decades, the hotel is somewhat legendary in Delhi. The 24-hour Golden Keys Concierge service ensures your every need is anticipated.

• Where?

Set in six acres of greenery, with breathtaking views, it’s ideally placed in the city’s prestigious Diplomatic Enclave. Effortlessly blending the grace of Old Delhi and the pace of New Delhi, check in here for a royal retreat.

• Must-do?

Dining is a delight; the hardest part will be deciding which of the several award-winning restaurants to eat in. We recommend Spicy Duck for specialities from Taishan and Chengdu. Make sure your kids get their activity passport on arrival, giving them access to loads of creative, fun activities during their stay. taj.tajhotels.com/en-in/taj-palace-new-delhi/

The LodhI • What to expect?

Like New Delhi itself, this hotel takes inspiration from Mughal architecture, which it filters through a truly contemporary aesthetic. Each of the 40 rooms in the main building has its own plunge pool lined with jade-green Khareda stone and flanked by a private terrace, where you can lounge on a huge daybed. Attention to detail is fantastic, staff are super-friendly and the spa is a haven you’ll never want to leave.

• Where?

Just 1km from the tomb of the famous Mughal Emperor Humayun, the hotel boasts six acres of beautifully landscaped gardens, and rooms look out over the rooftops of the historic Nizamuddin Village.

• Must-do?

The spa is a definite must-do thanks to its fantastic therapies and traditional Ayurvedic treatments. We recommend the anti-jet-lag massage, which will leave you feeling fresh as a daisy. And, when it comes to food, Anidra supper club is our favourite. thelodhi.com 14

daLLas Specialising in soufflé – that old-world puffedup French classic – Rise No 1’s signature marshmallow soup isn’t to be sniffed at. A flavourful tomato-carrot bisque topped with pesto and tiny goat’s cheese soufflés, it’ll have you swooning.

ToRonTo Canadians know how to do winter so it makes sense that they know how to do piping-hot soup. Esther, Queen of Soups in Cumberland Terrace sells countless pots of the stuff every day, and the mulligatawny packs just the right amount of heat.

• Hit the slopes LaPLand Dust off your skis and make for Finnish Lapland this month to get a head start on Europe’s ski trail. Peak season is just around the corner but for ski-cionados who simply can’t wait, Ruka (ruka.fi) is your best bet. With over 200 days of snow a year, the slopes are already open here so it’s ideal for uncrowded skiing, great-value accommodation in cosy cabins and, best of all, no queues for the ski lifts. Don’t miss the free concert to celebrate the season opening on 12 November.

JW MARRIOT T® MARQUIS DUBAI

Italian Festivities

at the world’s tallest hotel.

Experience authentic tastes of Italy at JW Marriott Marquis Dubai throughout the month of November.

ITALIAN SUMMIT GALA RECEPTION - 12 NOVEMBER MICHELIN STAR GUEST CHEF MARIA GRAZIA SONCINI SATURDAY FAMILY LUNCH AT POSITANO WHITE AND BLACK TRUFFLE MENU AT POSITANO OUTDOOR BBQ AT POSITANO For more information call +971 4 414 3000 or email jwmmrr@marriott.com

Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971 4 414 0000, F +971 4 414 0001 | jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | @JWDubaiMarquis | JWMarriottMarquisDubai

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Globetrotter

November 2016

Three ways to…

Experience the Formula One Abu Dhabi Grand Prix

Get ready for races, yachts, gigs and after-parties galore as the F1 circus roars onto Yas Island Trackside For the eighth year running Abu Dhabi is hosting F1’s only twilight race, the Middle East’s biggest sporting event. Held at Yas Marina Circuit, it’s an awe-inspiring experience for drivers and spectators alike, with a waterfront setting to rival the likes of Monaco and Singapore. As well as all the on-track action, off-track fun will be unrivalled, with a host of superstars flying in to entertain the crowds.

The F1 Village will have a range of food and beverage offerings from around the world and all ticket holders will also get free access to Ferrari World and Yas Waterworld, making 25-27 November a weekend to remember.

For tickets, visit yasmarinacircuit.com

From the water If you want to go all out, the Amber Lounge Celebrity Yacht is the place to be, and be seen. Having hosted exclusive F1 events for 14 years, Amber Lounge knows the ingredients for the perfect race weekend; with space for up to 60 revellers on its 31m-long yacht, the two-day passes are the ultimate in Grand Prix indulgence. Not only do you get amazing track views, you can expect celebrity and driver appearances, an all-day open bar and delicious eats from morning to night. When the chequered flag has flown, make your way ashore to the Amber Lounge after-party, where Jay Sean is set to perform. For reservations, email abudhabi@amber-lounge.com 16

VIP The Ultimate Bucket List Experience is a four-day extravaganza of front-row seats and behind-the-scenes access. Staying in a luxurious Island Suite at Yas Viceroy, you’ll have a privileged view of the racing action from your wraparound balcony. You’ll also get a private pit-lane walk, and take in performances from Rihanna, The Chemical Brothers and Lionel Richie. Taste the cuisine of Michelin-starred Antonio Mellino and his Quattro Passi team at Amici, and, on final race day, watch from the Kazu terrace as you tuck into a special Omakase menu. Wrap up the weekend with visits to Yas Waterworld and Ferrari World. Find out more at viceroyhotelsandresorts.com/en/abudhabi

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Globetrotter

November 2016

• Culture a mad woRLd Renowned master sculptor Xia Hang brings a fascinating exhibition of complex metal sculptures to the Middle East’s first mechanical art gallery Entitled Sleep Walker, this showcase at The MB&F M.A.D. Gallery Dubai is a commentary on the complex relationship between 3D technology and reality, and will feature 10 pieces that have been expertly crafted from steel. Spanning up to 2m apiece, the intricate and monumental works demonstrate Xia Hang’s imaginative creativity. A graduate of China’s Central Academy of Fine Arts, Hang is a pioneer in the ‘sculpture of play’ as a form of artistic creation. His works are born out of a sense of play, something central to MB&F’s own core concept. Embrace your free spirit and indulge your inner child with a visit to the exhibition in Dubai’s art district, Alserkal Avenue, from now until 18 January 2017.

• Insider weekend esCaPe If Doha has been on your short-break to-do list for a while, then you’ve no more excuses as Qatar Airways has just rolled out perfectly timed flights between Dubai and the Qatari capital. Thursday’s evening flight gets you to Doha from Dubai just after 7pm – so you’ll have plenty of time to make the most of the city’s ever-expanding showcase of luxury hotels and top-quality restaurants. Then, come Saturday, you can be back in Dubai by 5pm. The ideal weekend getaway.

• App daRk sky Now that summer is long gone, get your hands on Dark Sky – a rainfall-predictor app that currently works in the USA, UK and Ireland.

Easy to use, it gives you a fighting chance of avoiding rainfall – or enough warning to grab your umbrella before you set out to explore.

Available on Android and iOS

• Going up in the world The CaRIBBean’s BesT-kePT seCReT Where? Antigua.

Why? One of the safest islands in the Caribbean, the sandy beaches and crystal clear waters of Antigua are quite rightly drawing more visitors than ever before.

What? With no less than 365 beaches – one for every day of the year – 120 first-class resorts and 70 of the world’s finest restaurants, it’s little wonder that both Antigua and neighbouring Barbuda are firm favourites with celebrities. Make like Robert De Niro, Giorgio Armani and Oprah Winfrey and get yourself to this pristine Caribbean yachting 17

mecca, where warm, steady winds make ideal sailing conditions and love is in the air – the twin-island country was recently named the Caribbean’s Most Romantic Destination at the 2016 World Travel Awards.

Where to stay? Tucked away on the south coast of Antigua, the peculiarly named Curtain Bluff is a rare resort set on not one but two beaches. The staff are intensely loyal – the average length of employment is an impressive 27 years – the food is divine, and the gorgeous contemporary rooms all have fantastic sea views. Swing on a hammock, luxuriate in the spa, dance to live bands and simply enjoy. curtainbluff.com

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Check In My City

November 2016

My City

Zürich, Switzerland

STEPHANIE SEIBERT

Public relations manager Stephanie Seibert is living the dream in Switzerland’s financial capital

H

ave you ever wanted to step inside a fairy tale? If so, a trip to Zürich should definitely be on your to-do list. This picturesque city in the north of Switzerland – often mistaken for the capital (although that is actually Bern) – looks exactly like a fantasyland with Lake Zürich at its very heart, gorgeously enveloped by snow-covered mountain peaks.

From almost anywhere in the city you have easy access to either the lake or one of the two rivers, Limmat and Sihl, so you’re never far from a watery dreamscape. When the weather is fine, the public baths (known locally as badis) are the place to go to cool down or even take a swim during your lunch break. They’re also a popular after-work spot where many locals meet up with friends.

After a swim in the lake at Seebad Utoquai, I like to take a walk from Bellevue to Bürkliplatz and head directly over to Bahnhofstrasse. This is Zürich’s downtown and one of the world’s most exclusive (and expensive) shopping avenues. Stop at

Paradeplatz, situated towards the end of Bahnhofstrasse and one of the country’s priciest locales. With such financial affluence come the high-end restaurants and designer stores to boot – this is where you’ll find the latest in haute couture from top designers.

Confiserie Sprüngli is the place to peoplewatch while enjoying an original Bircher muesli, a traditional breakfast made from raw rolled oats, grains, fruit, seeds and nuts, and mixed with milk or yoghurt. The dish was developed circa 1900 by Swiss physician Maximilian Bircher-Benner for patients in his hospital but is now the breakfast of choice across Switzerland – it’s truly delicious. Close to Sprüngli’s flagship store, the newly opened Spitzenhaus welcomes perfume lovers with wide-open arms; it’s the perfect place to spoil yourself with a fragrance you adore.

Although the energy of Zürich is young and vibrant, you’ll see many old, picturesque sites and buildings such as the Grossmünster or the beautiful Fraumünster, with its five large 18

stained-glass windows designed by artist Marc Chagall and located in the old town, known as the Niederdorf. This specific area is quite hilly with many small, winding backstreets, perfect for aimless wandering. Perhaps surprisingly, it is also home to six cinemas and many eclectic boutiques as well as a whole host of upscale pop-up stores.

If art is your passion, visit the Kunsthaus or push the boat out to enjoy the amazing art collection located at the luxurious five-star Dolder Grand hotel. Towering above the city, it also boasts astonishing views over the lake and cityscape, and is the ideal destination to enjoy a beautiful sunset in the company of Salvador Dalí, Gerhard Richter, Niki de Saint Phalle and Fernando Botero before feasting on a delicious dinner in The Restaurant, the hotel’s twoMichelin-starred eatery.

I love living in my dreamland and calling Zürich home, and would encourage you to come and explore our well-manicured fairytale land for yourself.

https://indianvisaonline.gov.in/visa/tvoa.html

To know more, log on to www.incredibleindia.org

Discover the mystery of Jodhpur, Rajasthan

Find what you seek

India Tourism, Dubai. Tel : +971 4 2274848, Fax: +971 4 2274013. E-mail: goirto@emirates.net.ae

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World Traveller

November 2016

Ask The Expert

Ask The Expert

Rob Arrow

Head of product at dnata

Rob Arrow is a self-confessed hotel geek. With over a decade of experience in the luxury travel industry, Rob loves nothing more than talking hotels and discovering destinations. His favourite country is Lebanon, his beloved city is Melbourne, and his dream is to own a boutique retreat in the Italian Alps I return, and that’s the Maldives. It’s so easy to get to and is my go-to place when I need to recharge. For similar reasons, the Seychelles is somewhere I’ll go back to again and again and again. Everyone feels different wherever they travel, and I think it’s important to embrace your emotions and bear in mind that you can always retrace your steps to rekindle those moments and feelings.

Q. A.

Melbourne City Centre

Q. A.

You must have taken your fair share of holidays – where do you keep going back to and why?

One thing I love in life is travelling, and the UAE’s central location makes it the perfect base for getting out and exploring new places. The Dalai Lama said, “Once a year go somewhere you have never been before,” and, as much as I agree, I think there’s also a lot to be said for returning to a place you’ve already discovered. For me, going back to somewhere is mostly about the people, the food and the emotions – although, of course, there are some destination hotels that can evoke similar feelings and keep you returning for more.

Three countries I can’t get enough of are Lebanon, Australia and Portugal. Each of them has so many unique factors that, no matter how many times you go, you’ll always

uncover something new. In Lebanon, it might be a neighbourhood of Beirut that’s on the up, with entrepreneurial ventures and unique cafés or shops, or it could be a new unspoilt vantage across the Beqaa Valley, where historic ruins lie basking in the sun. The never-ending list of outback towns and tales from South Australia draws me back time and again, and the continued urban developments of Melbourne and Sydney are also fascinating to return to. In slow-paced Portugal, it’s taking a drive down an undiscovered road that ends by a river bed or a small lake, artlessly formed by the harsh summer sun and the moody winter rains, or stumbling upon an exciting reinvention of Portuguese cuisine in one of Lisbon’s hillside districts.

For relaxation, there’s one destination that never disappoints, no matter how often 20

For you, what is it that really makes a hotel stand out?

Many people have asked me that question many times, and plenty of others have given answers to it before. Some believe it’s all about location, some cite the hotel facilities or even the quality of the bed, but for me, what truly makes a hotel stand out is the people working there. Don’t get me wrong, all of the aforementioned are important and it’s wonderful to have a state-of-the-art room with the latest technology or the latest design in sleeping comfort, but without the service and warmth of the people working there, it’s not going to be a ‘wow’ experience. I was once having dinner with the general manager of a resort hotel and he told me, “I spend 70% of my time with or looking after my staff, as I know that if I have happy staff, I will have happy guests.” I honestly believe this to be true. So for me, when I’m travelling, it’s the people that make a property stand out.

With that in mind, one of my favourite stays this year was at the Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Landaa Giraavaru, where the staff still remembered me despite it being my first visit in five years. Velaa Private Island, also in the Maldives, excels when it comes to service – the butler team go way beyond expectations and organise absolutely everything for you. At Saifi Suites in Beirut, I always visit anonymously but the staff never fail to recognise me and try to make my stay more fun by allocating me a room I haven’t stayed in before or one with a different view, demonstrating that it doesn’t always have to be about grand luxury. I truly believe that personalisation is key – even seeing my face on a bottle of water at the Four Seasons Hotel Abu Dhabi at Al Maryah Island was a pretty special moment.

To book your own memorable experience, visit your local dnata outlet, call +971 4 316 6666 or log on to dnatatravel.com

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Chef’s Top Tables

November 2016

Chef’s Top Tables: Fulvio Pierangelini

As executive chef of Rocco Forte Hotels, Fulvio Pierangelini is known for transforming hotel restaurants with his creative, innovative approach to Italian food – from Sicily’s Verdura Resort to Berlin’s Hotel de Rome. He gives us his take on some of the best dining experiences around the globe

• Irene, Florence Order: Ravioli with tomato soup When it comes to bistros, Irene at the Hotel Savoy is one to get excited about. It’s a place where great Florentine traditions have been carefully rethought and the cuisine is modest yet delicious, with an important show of carefully chosen local ingredients. Decked out in a 1950s, retro-chic manner, tables are adorned with cut flowers, colourful cookbooks and traditional carta paglia tablecloths. Dishes are diverse, fresh and masterfully created, with the focus firmly on the flavour. And presentation is elegant without the pomp of unnecessary frills. Go for the ravioli paired with steaming tomato soup, or try the classic lasagna and meat sauce – an old favourite that’s been given a new lease of life, simply because Irene said so.

• roscIolI, rome Order: Pasta carbonara In the bustling heart of the Eternal City, this family-owned bakery has the finest bread in all of Rome. It’s also stocked with some of the very best meats and cheeses in the country, making it a firm favourite with locals. The fresh aromas that flood from Roscioli are enough to entice any passer-by through its doors, and the flatbread pizzas that fly off

Opposite: Momofuku Ko’s Sea urchin with chickpea purée and Hozon

the shelves speak for themselves. At lunch and dinner, this place transforms into an atmospheric trattoria and – so long as you book far enough in advance – you can dine in and delight in what is hands down the best pasta carbonara you will ever taste.

• momoFuku ko, new York Order: Sea urchin with chickpea purée and Hozon In the noisy panorama that is NYC, I love to take refuge at Momofuku Ko, where a thousand cultures are joined together in an amazing array of increasingly clever dishes that are good to the palate and often irreverent. Paired with a judiciously selected range of beverages, the menu here changes almost every single day, but you can rest assured that whatever is served up will be as interesting as it is delicious. Cementing these culinary offerings is an upscale ambience that pushes the word ‘gourmet’ to a higher level. This East Village eatery is an experience in itself, and a real gem for special occasions.

• les maIsons de BrIcourt, cancale Order: Lightly cooked sole de petit bateau Ah, this is one of my true favourites – not least because I love Olivier Roellinger, the magical chef of spices and the man at the helm here, but also because I adore the whole region of 22

Brittany, with its tides, its wonderful fish and its legendary shellfish. With breathtaking views of the bay of Mont Saint-Michel and the little port of Cancale, this restaurant is a solid case of elegant simplicity. Without a doubt my favourite dish on the menu has to be the lightly cooked sole de petit bateau – it’s simply unforgettable.

• Il BucanIere, san VIncenzo Order: Spaghetti with lobster A palafitte on the sand with stunning sunset vistas over the infinite sea of Tuscany, Il Bucaniere is an Italian beachfront dream.

Relax into this unparalleled coastal enclave designed by Massimiliano Fuksas – one of the biggest names in contemporary architecture – and allow your senses to be dazzled from the outset. The presentation of aperitifs is certain to evoke fond memories, followed by a selection of dishes from fisherman, chef and owner Fulvietto Pierangelini. This man (who also happens to be my son) is a fish expert – not just at cooking and preparing it but also at getting the very best out of it. Expect simple dishes bursting with flavour and aromas. The menu follows the rhythms of the fishing world and is dictated by quality ingredients, but not to be missed is the spaghetti with lobster – prepare to be surprised.

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November 2016

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November 2016

Spotlight On

Spotlight On

Bali

Dramatic coastline, sweeping beaches, pounding surf and emerald-green rice terraces: it’s no wonder Bali is Indonesia’s most visited island • Stay Katamama This boutique hotel has been entirely created by artisans – and their passion, craftsmanship and attention to detail is clearly visible throughout the entire property. Giant beds, custom-made furnishings and timeless mid-century pieces adorn each suite, and inroom bars – complete with ice wells, bespoke cocktail-mixing equipment and an inventive recipe book – make for the perfect stay.

Naturally dyed, hand-woven bathrobes made by local villagers hang on the door and, quite simply, they've thought of everything – right down to the Borneo rattan bag, matching hat and sarong provided to ensure you’re all set to make the most of Bali’s golden beaches.

• Eat and drink Charlie Despite its laid-back island vibe, top-quality dining in Bali isn’t hard to find, and at Charlie, that’s exactly what you get. Executive chef Meidy Zuhri serves up an innovative menu of cosmopolitan bistro dishes, while bartenders expertly carve chunks of ice from a huge central slab to ensure drinks are perfectly chilled.

Mr Wayan Recently voted Bali’s best Balinese restaurant and surrounded by rice paddies in the pretty Wapa Di Ume Resort & Spa, Mr Wayan blends rustic, authentic fare with contemporary touches. Expect an incredible variety of spices, fragrant local herbs, fresh vegetables, tender meats and seafood direct from the Java Sea. Potato Head Something of an institution, this seafront beach club kick-started Asia’s Potato Head empire. It boasts three restaurants, two bars and a gorgeous infinity pool you won’t want to leave thanks to endless epic tunes from firstclass DJs accompanied by some jaw-dropping sunset views. Open from breakfast until the wee hours, it’s your one-stop Seminyak shop.

• SEE and do Unwind in Ubud For culture, spiritual awakenings and rice paddies as far as the eye can see, Ubud is your best bet. Ever since the movie of Elizabeth Gilbert’s bestselling Eat, Pray, Love hit the box office, visitors to the central highland region have been on the up, but there’s plenty of space for everyone in this haven of tranquillity. This is Bali’s cultural hub: check out colourful art markets stocked with work from local creatives, visit the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary or simply hop on a swing suspended between coconut palms that offers you a mesmerising vantage of waterfalls and green fields.

Visit an active volcano If you’re looking for an adventure to really light up your trip, then Mount Batur should be at the top of your list. About an hour and a half from Ubud by car, this impressive volcano has mild to moderate explosive activity and lava flows. It’s a taxing two-and-a-half-hour climb from nearby village Kintamani but the effort is more than worth it for the forest, lake and crater views. Best enjoyed at sunrise, follow your climb with a breakfast of eggs cooked with steam from the fissures in the volcano.

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Luna2 Sharing the name of the first-ever man-made object to land on another celestial body, this whimsical beachfront villa and neighbouring 14-room ‘studiotel’ are in the heart of flashy Seminyak. The villa’s design is decadent, its interiors are funky and the entire place would probably look more at home in Miami than in Bali’s classier party town. If views are your thing, go for the green master bedroom and enjoy a private, pond-fringed terrace coupled with breathtaking beach vistas. If it’s retro indulgence you’re after, prepare to swoon at the giant Marilyn Monroe swimming pool – her image recreated with hundreds of Bisazza mosaic tiles – appreciate the giant Warhol hanging in the lounge, and sit down to eat on electric-orange Eames-style chairs.

Floating Leaf Eco-Luxury Retreat Located among peaceful rice fields, miles away from the traffic, pollution and crowds found in southern Bali, this sustainable retreat overlooks Mount Agung – the island’s highest point – and the glistening Bali Sea. Check into one of the six circular villas, designed in keeping with traditional Balinese theories. Dine on fresh, organic and healthy produce, most of it grown on-site, and enjoy a gourmet offering curated to your individual needs. Unwind in the state-of-the-art spa and discover authentic Balinese traditions with workshops in cookery, art and yoga. In short: rewind, recharge and replenish body, mind and spirit with a stay at this eco escape.

• don’t MiSS Blessed with almost 365 days of swell, faultless weather and pristine warm water, Bali is the perfect place to hone your board skills. Catch some waves by going south to Kuta Beach, where the winds blow offshore come November, or head east from the middle of the month onwards for endless stretches of surfing heaven.

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November 2016

Celebrate Life As the exclusive Nikki Beach Resort & Spa Dubai gets ready to open its doors, we take a sneak peek inside

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authentic, local touches across all 117 rooms and suites, and flowing through to the 15 private villas.

Throughout the resort, the impact of nature is the source for almost every design element, effortlessly creating that sought-after feel-good factor, seamlessly complemented by a sprawling 450m private white beachfront. Meanwhile, tech aficionados will be enthused by the art mood-lighting systems, entertainment walls and interactive televisions.

Escape the hustle of the world with some me-time in the Nikki Spa, where you can revive your senses or rejuvenate with the ice fountain and external vitality pool, or indulge in memorable dining with gastronomic delights from an inspirational menu. Perfect for a visit short or long, both the hotel rooms and the exterior can be adapted to suit the vibe of the moment, so whether you’re seeking romantic, energetic or sheer relaxation, this is the ideal getaway that you’ll never want to leave.

For glorious year-round sunsets that are just perfect for filling your Insta-feed, Nikki Beach Resort & Spa Dubai is the place to be seen.

Find out more at nikkibeachhotels.com

he secret’s out – the legendary Nikki Beach Resort & Spa is opening its doors in Dubai next month, bringing the iconic, fun-loving, trendsetting property to the Middle East for the first time.

Located in Pearl Jumeira, the city’s newest and most exclusive area, expect spectacular views of both the Arabian Gulf and Dubai’s awe-inspiring skyline. With Downtown, DIFC and The Dubai Mall all just a short drive away, this boutique resort is perfect for those who want the exclusivity of a desert-island destination combined with the convenience of being in the heart of the city.

Inspired by the vision of Jack Penrod, founder and owner of Nikki Beach Worldwide, white is the order of the day at this luxury haven, which combines entertainment, dining, music, fashion, film and art with truly beautiful design.

Drawing brilliance from the simplistic beauty of the beach, sea and sky, each of the hotel rooms is a reflection of the renowned Nikki Beach brand, and keeping things natural is key. Expect plenty of white fabrics and understated, sophisticated furnishings combined with 26

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November 2016

Style & Wellness

Style & Wellness this month’s style files encompass unexpected haunts in the Peruvian andes, debonair buys for the holiday season and picture-perfect retreats from which to soothe the mind

Style-Savvy Local MARY ALICE MALONE Once the capital of the Inca Empire, the Cusco of today is known for its architecture and, according to Malone Souliers cofounder and creative director Mary Alice, its melting pot of personalities

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Time To Unplug The rise of the digital detox is gathering pace as we crave an excuse to escape our smartphones, laptops and social media. According to Dr Tim Sharp from Australia’s The Happiness Institute, “When we fully switch off we’re then better able to fully switch on,” so jump on the bandwagon with a tech-free vacation at one of the following…

Chumbe Island Coral Park, ZanZIbar About six miles outside Zanzibar, this awardwinning private nature reserve is completely cut off from the rest of the world so tech-free is the only way to stay. And with amazing views of the Indian Ocean, a technicolour palette of marine life and that laid-back African vibe, why would you want anything else? amankora, bhutan Surrounded by forests and orchards in the secluded Himalayan realm of Bhutan, this resort is a sanctuary as tranquil and out of time as the kingdom it’s a part of. In a country

that’s globally acknowledged for its National Happiness index (as opposed to its GDP), there’s perhaps no better destination in the world for a digital detox.

Four seasons resort Costa rICa Upon check-in, hand over your smartphone and receive a ‘24 things to do without technology’ booklet bulging with alternative ideas like tap dancing, sunset catamaran cruises and kayaking. Successfully complete the techfree challenge and you’ll get your phone back sporting a custom-made cover featuring a memorable vista from the resort.

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s a designer, I’m fascinated by structure, architectural lines and the union of design aesthetics, which is why Cusco ranks highly on my list of places to explore.

The only place to start your day is Jack’s Café for its conversation-stopping all-day breakfast.

I love the heuvos rancheros served with what I believe to be the fluffiest caramelised-banana pancakes in the entire Southern hemisphere.

Soak up the local atmosphere afterwards with a wander through Plaza de Armas, the city’s central square, with its historic arcades, carved wood balconies and Incan wall ruins.

One of the greatest things about Cusco is the bustling markets. The Mercado Central de San Pedro is my absolute favourite for authentic, locally sourced produce and the San Blas Market is a must-visit for its live music and eclectic mix of stalls selling gorgeous handmade jewellery. Every time I visit, I pick up something to add to my collection back home.

I find that collecting objects from around the world always plays a part in my future design inspiration at Malone Souliers.

No trip to Cusco would be complete without taking time to navigate the brilliant Museo de Arte Precolombino; follow this up with an afternoon bite at the museum’s stylish MAP Café, a buzzing hub of creativity where diners can be spotted from afar, framed by large glass boxes in what is a stark contrast to the crumbling, history-rich backdrop.

Finally, I would suggest dinner at Cicciolina, an address I learned from a close friend of mine, for typical – but delicious – tapas dishes and truly great grape. This high-altitude city is a melting pot that’s rich in culture, heritage gems and breathtaking views, and is one of my favourite places that I hope you will fall as much in love with as have I.

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Style & Wellness

November 2016

What to pack for...

A dapper Thanksgiving week in Philadelphia The Ghurka Cavalier II duffel bag and leather travel kit (nordstrom.com) are ideal for a trip in Southern style. Layer up with finesse as you watch the United States’ oldest parade trundle down Benjamin Franklin Parkway.

1. Third And Indiana: A Novel by Steve Lopez, USD16 at Amazon 2. Rabbit-felt fedora, USD370, Borsalino at Mr Porter 3. Camel-hair rollneck, USD280, A.P.C. at Mr Porter 4. Hedonist AM watch, USD1,876, Fortis 5. City Gent umbrella, USD190, London Undercover at Mr Porter 6. Leather cardholder, USD335, Givenchy at Mr Porter 7. Tortoiseshell beard comb, USD35, Tom Ford at Mr Porter 8. Cotton-blend socks, USD30, Anonymous 28

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Style & Wellness

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ISM at Mr Porter 9. Tom Ford Neroli Portofino EDP, USD225 at Mr Porter 10. Panama leather notebook, USD75, Smythson at Mr Porter 11. Miltzen optical glasses, USD280, Moscot at Mr Porter 12. City cashmere-lined suede and leather gloves, USD445, Tod’s at Mr Porter 13. Buly 1803 Pommade Virginale Face Cream, USD56 at Mr Porter 14. M240 camera, USD11,950, Leica at Mr Porter 15. iPhone 7, from USD649, Apple 29

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November 2016

dnata Offers

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Switzerland

four seasons resort orlando at walt disney world resort 6 nights from USD1,332 per person Special offer: Stay 4 nights and receive 2 additional nights free Includes: Stay in a Four Seasons Room with return airport transfers Validity: Now ’til 21 Dec 2016

victoria-jungfrau grand hotel & spa 4 nights from USD1,026 per person Special offer: Stay 3 nights and receive an additional night free, plus 20% discount at Spa Nescens Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now ’til 15 Dec 2016

Discover a realm of fun, adventure and true extravagance amid the magic of Disney World.

Old-world style, gracious hospitality and a stunning view of the snow-capped Jungfrau.

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Jordan

amman rotana 2 nights from USD206 per person Special offer: 20% discount on room rate and complimentary upgrade to next room category Includes: Stay in a Classic Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now ’til 30 Dec 2016 Take in Jordan’s treasures from this luxury city base, the perfect place to unwind after a day of business or sightseeing.

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Azerbaijan

boulevard hotel baku, autograph collection 3 nights from USD411 per person Special offer: 10% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in a Boulevard King Room with breakfast daily, half-day city tour and return airport transfers Validity: Now ’til 15 Mar 2017 Experience an alternative Azerbaijan with a stay at this sophisticated Baku retreat.

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hilton mauritius resort & spa 3 nights from USD841 per person Special offer: Stay 3 nights and receive an additional night free, plus complimentary upgrade from half to full board Includes: Stay in a King Deluxe Room with breakfast and dinner daily, plus return airport transfers Validity: Now ’til 21 Mar 2017

golden triangle tour 5 nights from USD568 per person Includes: 2 nights at Le Méridien New Delhi, 1 night at Radisson Blu Agra, 2 nights at Jaipur Marriott; breakfast daily; sightseeing and rickshaw ride in Delhi; half-day tour to Taj Mahal and Agra Fort; sightseeing and tour in Jaipur; return private airport transfers Validity: Now ’til 20 Dec 2016

Wake up in paradise with views of Rempart Mountain.

A showcase of India’s very best amidst a journey of luxury.

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Thailand

amari phuket 3 nights from USD256 per person Special offer: 10% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in a Superior Ocean Facing Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now ’til 20 Dec 2016 Palm-lined sands, roaring ocean waves and panoramic vistas beckon at this private beachfront resort.

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Singapore

grand hyatt singapore 3 nights from USD526 per person Special offer: 15% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in a Grand Deluxe Room with breakfast daily, return airport transfers, complimentary Singapore 241 Passport offering discounts in 20+ F&B outlets, rides and attractions Validity: Now ’til 20 Dec 2016 A luxury haven to explore all the island has to offer.

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Clockwise from top: Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay; The Ritz-Carlton, Istanbul; Velaa Private Island; The Ritz-Carlton, Budapest

dnata’s Fantastic Four Waterfront wanderlust

Riverside, oceanfront or on the world’s most exclusive archipelago, these four properties prove there’s something special about being by the water

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Hungary

the ritz-carlton, budapest 4 nights from USD560 per person Special offer: Stay 3 nights and receive an additional night free Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: 10 Nov ’til 15 Mar 2017 A palatial retreat with a magnificent panorama of the Danube, this is Hungary at its finest.

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the ritz-carlton, istanbul 3 nights from USD345 per person Special offer: 30% discount on room rate and complimentary upgrade to a Deluxe Partial Bosphorus View Room Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Park View Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now ’til 30 Dec 2016

Maldives

velaa private island 3 nights from USD4,626 per person Special offer: Complimentary one-way seaplane transfer and upgrade to half board Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Beach Pool Villa with breakfast daily Validity: Now ’til 20 Dec 2016 Expect unparalleled privacy surrounded by unique architecture, breathtaking nature and the glistening Indian Ocean at this boutique island hideaway.

A real icon of history on the banks of the Bosphorus.

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Indonesia

four seasons resort bali at jimbaran bay 4 nights from USD1,330 per person Special offer: Stay 3 nights and receive an additional night free Includes: Stay in a One-Bedroom Villa with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now ’til 23 Dec 2016 Oceanfront luxury on Bali’s southern coast, think palm-lined beaches and pristine white sands steeped in island traditions.

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Destinations

Iconic Amsterdam

Iconic Amsterdam With over 100km of canals, a colourful artistic heritage and an ongoing love affair with bicycles, it’s easy to see why Amsterdam is one of Europe’s top city breaks

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November 2016

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Destinations

Iconic Amsterdam

The Jordaan This once working-class bastion is now probably the most famous neighbourhood in the Netherlands, loved by Mokummers and visitors alike. Just west of Centraal Station, it’s a cobblestoned maze of hidden courtyards, street cafés, art galleries, markets and bicycles – lots and lots of bicycles. The sidestreets south of Westerstraat have been transformed into the city’s culinary hot spot, with some of Amsterdam’s trendiest eateries setting up shop here. Try Moeders for home-made specialities that have been keeping diners satisfied for over 20 years.

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November 2016

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Destinations

Iconic Amsterdam

November 2016

De Gooyer As much an icon of Amsterdam as cheese, clogs and tulips, the city’s windmills are a must-visit and De Gooyer is probably the most emblematic of them all. Dating back to 1725, during its working life it was used to mill corn but has remained nonoperational since being damaged in a storm in 1972. On the banks of the Nieuwe Vaart canal, the whole area is packed with scenic delights and historical treasures, perfect for exploring on foot.

Bloemenmarkt Quite possibly the most fragrant place in Amsterdam, the floating flower market in the city’s southern canal belt captivates with its colours. First hosted in 1860, it’s an ode to the days when blooms arrived daily by boat from the Dutch countryside. You’ll find tulips of every hue imaginable as well as hundreds of brightly painted clogs, quirky fridge magnets and other kitschy souvenirs, all being touted loudly by the smiling vendors.

Muiderslot The best-kept medieval castle in all of the Netherlands, Muiderslot is worth the 15km trip outside the city centre.

Located at the mouth of the Vecht river, this place showcases over 700 years of Dutch history. Follow the Knight’s Route to discover what life was like here in the Middle Ages, then uncover the golden years by travelling back in time to the 17th century on a tour of the private rooms. Finish with a wander through the beautifully historic gardens of this perfect example of a Dutch fort.

Rijksmuseum Consistently ranked among the best in the world, a visit to the Netherlands’ national museum takes you on a comprehensive, whistlestop tour through eight centuries of Dutch art and history, via over 8,000 exhibits. The building is as grand as the vast collection of artworks it’s home to – we dare you not to be impressed by the lofty passageway, where lively street performers, buskers, magical acoustics and an air of transparency set the stage for a journey of discovery. Don’t miss Rembrandt’s The Night Watch.

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Destinations

Iconic Amsterdam

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November 2016

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Destinations Patagonia

November 2016

Big

Cat

Patagonia’s glorious winter sets the perfect scene for our attempt to snatch a sighting of South America’s most elusive big cat

Words: Sue Watt

Diary 38

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Destinations Patagonia

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November 2016

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Destinations Patagonia

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he snow underfoot sparkled so brightly I felt like I was trampling on a carpet of diamonds. Rushing uphill, we spoke in whispers, but only when we had to. It wasn’t just our hasty pace or hushed excitement that left me breathless: under crisp blue skies, the beauty of Patagonia’s winter – its lakes, glaciers, mountains and rivers – revealed itself in every direction. But that would have to wait. We knew Sarmiento and her cubs were close: if we were quick, we might just catch our first sighting of South America’s iconic and most elusive big cat.

Torres del Paine National Park, spanning nearly 900 square miles of southern Chile, is home to about 50 pumas.

From October to May, they roam far across the mountains hunting guanacos, similar to llamas with camel-like faces and fur in caramel and cream. But in deep midwinter, guanacos congregate lower down the mountains to graze on grasses and shrubs not covered by snow, theoretically making pumas easier to spot as they follow their food supply. Most tours to Patagonia avoid the winter months, focusing on trekking and photography, and a very remote chance of seeing pumas en route.

This new winter puma-tracking trip with Natural World Safaris turns that formula on its head, concentrating solely on spotting pumas with expert trackers confined to areas where guanacos are common, around Sarmiento Lake and the Entre Porterias region. It just happens to be set amid some of the world’s most dramatic mountain scenery.

It is undeniably colder from June to October: last July, I was “dressed like an onion”, as advised by our guide John Walbaum, layered in thermals and fleeces in temperatures of -5°C. In Chile’s most popular national park, visitor numbers dwindle from 105,000 in summer to just 7,000 in winter.

Opening pages: The elusive puma concolor. Below, from left: Grazing guanacos; and a glacial lake, both in Torres del Paine National Park

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Most come to trek, but puma-tracking is gaining in popularity. However, CONAF, the Chilean forest service responsible for national parks, is concerned about unethical practices by some guides that include setting bait for pumas, interrupting their hunts, disturbing females with youngsters and shining night lights. Consequently, last year they imposed tighter regulations prohibiting walking off-trail.

“We want to keep our wildlife wild,” said Alejandra Silva Garay, CONAF’s regional director for Magallanes and Chilean Antarctica. “And we want to protect our natural heritage and maintain the safety and integrity of those who visit us.”

Park ranger José Vargas, known as Wayaja, has worked in Torres del Paine for 25 years, and first brought his son here, also called José, at just 15 days old. Father and son have become puma-tracking experts.

Their job isn’t easy. Pumas don’t roar like lions, nor do they wear GPS collars signalling their whereabouts. So ethical trackers like ours rely on nature’s telltale signs – the guanacos’ alarm cry (like a horse frantically neighing), their panicked running, or standing rigid, staring towards the puma they’ve just sensed. Condors, eagles and vulturelike caracaras also help, circling over kills. Father and son rely on their experience, too, knowing the puma’s usual ritual is to hunt at night then sleep, returning to devour their kill in the morning, then resting on full stomachs until the sun goes down – when the cycle starts again. If you find the kill, you’ll usually find the pumas. We found neither on our first day, with low, heavy cloud obscuring the mountains and their wildlife.

At 3.30am, the moon woke me, shining like a giant yellow spotlight through our bedroom window. For the first time,

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I saw the Paine massif in all its freezing, jagged glory, reflected in perfect symmetry on the glasslike Pehoe Lake.

Six hours later, as the sun rose on a sparkling winter’s day, we received a radio call in our jeep from Wayaja. He’d been following guanacos nearby and summoned us to join him.

“In five years’ guiding all around Torres del Paine, I’ve only seen one puma,” John Walbaum confided, barely concealing his excitement. “That was at Puerto Natales airport well outside the park.” Hence our dash up that seemingly diamond-encrusted path to find Sarmiento and her cubs.

A breathless hour later, we reached Wayaja. However, Sarmiento was already moving on to hunt, having failed to kill a guanaco during the night. With her three cubs hidden out of sight, for a split second we saw her striding purposefully into distant hills. About 3ft high and weighing 12 stone, her ginger coat and long streak of tail merged with the reddish hue of the rocks as she disappeared.

“I’ve known Sarmiento since she was a cub. I think she recognises me now, she knows my smell,” Wayaja said, revealing she was his favourite. “They all have different characters: Sarmiento is calm and clever.”

We wandered down to Sarmiento Lake, after which she was named. Over 15 miles long, it is fringed by Patagonian Steppe, flatlands of thorny calafate bushes that bear blueberry-like fruit in springtime and prickly, squashy shrubs known as mother-in-law’s cushion. The calcified rocks hugging the cobalt-coloured lake are a popular resting place for pumas. We waited in silence, scanning the shore through binoculars in case a head popped up or a paw stretched out, willing orange rocks to morph into a puma’s profile.

Guanacos and pumas aren’t the only wildlife in Torres del Paine. We came across dainty grey foxes braving the cold

Destinations Patagonia

November 2016

in thick winter coats and a skunk determinedly digging for food. The park is also home to more than 100 species of bird. Iconic black and white condors soared overhead, the second largest bird after the albatross. Southern caracaras and rare Austral pygmy owls perched on posts; vivid pink flamingos lapped the nutrients from Amarga Lagoon; and Darwin’s rheas strutted across the hills.

I saw the Paine massif in all its freezing, jagged glory, reflected in perfect symmetry on the glasslike Pehoe Lake’

Below and next pages: Roads cut through the rugged landscape of Torres del Paine. Closing pages: Sarmiento Lake is a popular spot for guanacos in winter

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With vast ranches called estancias as neighbours, the area alongside the park is home to more mundane animals such as cows and sheep – and pumas don’t discriminate between them and wild prey. Consequently, despite being protected, pumas have been hated and hunted by the local gauchos. “Gauchos thought badly of pumas because they kill livestock,” Wayaja commented. “Now that they realise they have a tourist value, they are beginning to change their attitude.”

At our hotel, Explora Patagonia, John explained how attitudes had changed towards Chile, too: “Explora put Chilean Patagonia on the map when it opened 22 years ago.

It was the first five-star hotel here. Until then, people only thought of going to Argentinian Patagonia.”

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Destinations Patagonia

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November 2016

A large puma, sleek and strong with a certain panache, sitting just yards from the roadside, instantly became a blur of red

The only hotel open in Torres del Paine during winter, Explora has lost none of its style or relaxing ambience during the intervening decades. The elegant spa and indoor swimming pool, most of the 49 rooms and the lounge and dining areas, in tones of blue, cream and pale wood, overlook spectacular lake and mountain views. And the restaurant’s imaginative meals belie the hotel’s remote location. Dinners included a delicate quinoa risotto with squid and tangy cochayuyo seaweed, delicious home-made pumpkin ravioli, and succulent Wagyu beef with chickpeas.

The full moon meant another foodless night for pumas, however. With the night light working to the guanacos’ advantage, our trackers found no kills the following morning. In our Jeep, John was explaining the three Ps of puma tracking – “Positivity, Patience, Perseverance” – when we heard the distinctive screeching neigh of a guanaco’s alarm call: perhaps providence plays a part, too.

As we drove around the corner, a large puma, sleek and strong with a certain panache, sitting just 20 yards from the roadside, instantly became a blur of red as she rushed away, closely followed by two big cubs.

José had earlier seen guanacos around Sarmiento’s home territory so, at a slower pace, we revisited the scene of our first sighting. Now we had time to appreciate the tranquillity of the Aonikenk Trail. Between Sarmiento and Amarga gates, in blissful winter solitude, lay a world of white peaks with streaks of black granite, frozen lagoons and clear azure skies. I lost myself in its beauty, almost forgetting I was here to track pumas. The chilly mountain air brushed my cheeks and our footsteps crunched rhythmically in the snow, the only sound until the low rumble of a distant avalanche broke the spell.

We were searching for Mocho, Sarmiento’s daughter and another Wayaja favourite. “She’s known for her stumpy tail.

She makes us work hard because she wanders for miles – that’s why I hate her,” he grinned, knowing he meant the opposite. But Mocho was nowhere to be seen. “They’re playing cat-and-mouse with us,” Wayaja said. “They haven’t had a kill for a couple of days, so they’ll be hungry. Perhaps they’ll get something tonight.”

On our last morning, we left early to see the three famous granite towers which gave the park its name: at sunrise, they glow like giant red-hot pokers. Suddenly, John hit the brakes. Minutes before daybreak, we could just make out a puma, large yet graceful with a stealthy gait darting up the hill near the road. Then a rock-like shape developed twitching ears and burst into puma form, and a third, silhouetted in the semi-darkness, joined them. As is their wont, all three seemingly vanished into icy thin air.

Mountain weather and wild animals live by their own unpredictable rules, and we had been incredibly lucky with both. We may not have seen pumas resting peacefully after a kill, fat-bellied, at one with their beautiful world. But we saw them hungry and hunting, on a mission to survive.

And we saw Patagonia in all its winter wonder as the snow turned pink with the rising sun.

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or log on to dnatatravel.com 45

World Traveller

B e y n

Destinations Brazil

e au o t y d .

Brazil’s lesser-known charms are often dimmed by the shadow of ever-popular Rio, but it’s a country of riches with natural treasures ripe for discovery Words : Michelle Jana Chan

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I canoed around the shore of one island and saw bottlenose dolphins dipping in and out of the water as a roseate spoonbill flapped low over the water’

F

ollowing its memorable Olympics, Rio remains on the mind – but there is more to Brazil than Ipanema beach, Sugarloaf Mountain and the Art Deco landmark of the Christ the Redeemer statue. The country’s attractions are many and diverse, from the vast natural wonder of the Amazon rainforest to 16th-century colonial cities, and from the wetland wildlife of the Pantanal to the tropical beaches of Bahia.

In a country that’s roughly the size of the United States, distances are long and flight connections often force travellers to pass inconveniently through São Paulo – but there is another way to experience Brazil’s varied landscapes.

To the south of Rio de Janeiro is the compact state of Paraná. Here lies the safe, leafy city of Curitiba, a historical railway journey to the colonial town of Morretes, great swathes of Atlantic rainforest, the rugged Serra do Mar mountains, and beaches that make surfers sigh. Far better known, of course, are the Iguaçu Falls, which are also in Paraná.

I began my journey in the state capital Curitiba, a city populated mostly by European immigrants and one of Brazil’s greenest, with dozens of public parks, avenues lined with purple and yellow ipês trees, and copses of araucária, a relative of the monkey puzzle tree. This city is quiet and cool, unlike much of Brand Brazil, the brasher version of the country now conspicuous on our TV screens. There are cycle paths, pedestrianised districts and a pioneering public transport system. The motto on the Brazilian flag,

Ordem e Progresso (Order and Progress), could very well be a slogan for Curitiba.

I visited the striking, eye-shaped Oscar Niemeyer Museum to see an exhibition dedicated to the country’s most beloved Modernist architect; the Free University of the Environment, built on a disused quarry; and best of all, the home of my guide’s mother. Eugenio invited me back for a Sunday lunch of rice and beans. “This is not the destination for carnival and capoeira,” he told me, “but it is Brazil.” Curitiba is the starting point of the Great Brazil Express, the country’s finest railway journey where woodpanelled carriages, velvet armchairs, bilingual narration and an unlimited bar service await.

Starting at nearly 3,300ft above sea level, the train travels through tunnels, and over bridges and viaducts – switching back and forth as it crosses the Serra do Mar range towards the coast. The journey is through dense Atlantic rainforest, home to bromeliads and orchids sprouting from trunks, tree ferns and gigantic hydrangeas. I see glimpses of exotic birds – tanagers, trogons and toucanets – in the branches.

Four hours later, we pulled into Morretes, a colourful colonial town founded in 1733 by Jesuits and which prospered on the trade of yerba maté tea and sugar cane.

There are whitewashed churches right across town, some that served the slave-owner and others that welcomed slaves. On a Sunday evening, these are the only buildings with lights on.

From here I headed to the coast and Brazil’s largest stretch of Atlantic rainforest. Superagüi National Park is 48

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Destinations Brazil

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Destinations Brazil

The drama was mesmerising, a contrast of fearsome power and the lightness of rainbows’

a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the continent’s biodiversity hot spots, home to the endangered black-faced lion tamarin and the red-tailed Amazon parrot.

The park is split between the Valley of the Rio dos Patos on the mainland and four islands off the coast ringed by beaches. I canoed around the shore of one island and saw bottlenose dolphins dipping in and out of the water as a roseate spoonbill flapped low over the water.

I based myself nearby on Ilha do Mel, or the Isle of Honey, a low-key surf destination where the beat of maranhão reggae and forró played out in the island’s bars. There are no cars. No roads. Luggage is carried in barrows along a lattice of forested sandy trails. There is a church for surfers, incongruously named Bola de Neve, which translates as ‘snowball’; the pastor wears board shorts and the altar is made from a surfboard.

Like many of the islands along this coastline, Ilha do Mel was once a quarantine station for slaves. At the western tip is a colonial fortress, oddly named Fortaleza de Nossa Senhora dos Prazeres (Our Lady of Pleasures), where the only action was against a British ship trying to enforce an end to slavery. The island’s painful history is shrouded in myths and mysteries. There is the requisite grotto where mermaids were said to seduce sailors. After dark, the luminescent plankton in the surf was thought to be spirits, and the seabed is allegedly strewn with shipwrecks.

I stayed on Praia Grande, one of the most coveted surf beaches, in a Balinese-themed pousada. At the other end of the beach is the hippy colony of Canto do Vó, or 50

November 2016

World Traveller

Destinations Brazil

Opening page: Brazilian tribespeople. Previous pages, from left: The Oscar Niemeyer Museum; Barigui Park in Curitiba; old and new Curitiba.

These pages, clockwise from top left: A rare macaw; Iguaçu Falls; hunting in the rainforest; the Serra Verde Express to Morretes; Tres Picos in the Atlantic Forest

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Grandmother’s Corner. The beach bar here could be the coolest on the planet (there is no schedule; “it is open when it is open”). I moseyed up to the lighthouse, Farol das Conchas, to watch the sunset.

There was one last pause in Paraná: a short flight to the west of the state to see one of the great wonders of the natural world, Iguaçu Falls. My visit came on the back of two weeks of relentless rain and the water level was five times the norm. The drama was mesmerising, a contrast of fearsome power and the lightness of rainbows.

Yet it is easy to be transfixed by the roar of Iguaçu and overlook the immediate surrounds. Here, around the Falls, is another pocket of Atlantic rainforest. Emilio White, a local naturalist, calls it some of the most endangered habitat in the world. “Some conservationists have even given up on it,” he told me, as we watched a pair of toco toucans in the trees above. “They say it’s too small to spend time fighting for.”

Nevertheless, it is in this rainforest that the harpy eagle can still be seen, a bird so strong that it can prey on adult howler monkeys. Dogwoods grow 130ft high. I hiked the Macuco trail and spotted a pair of foraging coati in the undergrowth. An agouti lolloped across the trail. Millions may come to see the majesty of the Falls but far fewer witness the magic of the forest. That, in part, is what sets Brazil apart – a vast country where more than half the land mass is still covered in trees.

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or log on to dnatatravel.com

World Traveller

Destinations Stockholm

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Destinations Stockholm

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Scandinavia leads the world when it comes to style, dining and history, and Sweden’s capital is so packed with attractions it’s hard to know where to start.

And so sometimes it’s best not to start at all…

Syndrome

Words : Richard Jenkins

Stockholm

World Traveller November 2016

World Traveller

Destinations Stockholm

November 2016

Opening page: Södermalm.

These pages, clockwise from far left: Cobbled streets in Gamla Stan; one of Stockholm’s many bridges; Södermalm; pastel spires pepper the skyline. Next pages, from left: Stallbron bridge and the Swedish Parliament; a Södermalm record shop; Lydmar Hotel

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he temptation with city breaks is to pack as much as you can into your trip, itinerising everything to within an inch of its life and making sure that not a minute is wasted. Of course, that’s part of the fun – the pre-trip planning, looking up the highlights and landmarks not to miss and scheduling your time around them. What I’ve learned is that sometimes it’s better to just go with the flow – and there’s nowhere better to do just that than Stockholm, Sweden’s capital city.

I’m nominally here to run the city’s half-marathon – along with 8,000 other (much fitter) people from across the globe. My reasoning is that there’s no better way of seeing a city than running around half of it and so, apart from that rather large chunk of time in the middle of the trip, I hadn’t planned anything else.

Stockholm has a reputation for two things: beautiful blonde people and high prices – and the reputations for both are well deserved. After landing at Arlanda Airport, we catch the express train to Stockholm Central Station, via gorgeous woodland scenery. As soon as we depart the station, we spot a couple on an afternoon stroll that looked like it was going to end in a Vogue photoshoot, and vow to try and look less dishevelled for the rest of our stay.

Stockholm is a city that’s perfect for exploring on foot, although the huge harbour it’s built around does make it difficult – frequently you’ll see exactly where you want to be, just a hundred metres or so away over a body of water, which you’ll need to walk a kilometre around to reach.

That said, the journey is often as much of a pleasure as the destination. Boats bob in the water, and picturesque residential blocks are interspersed with grand Gothic architecture, often spearing a hundred feet into the sky to create a fascinating skyline in pastel colours.

Walking is also the best way to make sure you don’t miss out on any of the myriad shops that line the streets, each

selling just a part of what makes Scandinavian culture so timelessly stylish. Furniture, clothing and coffee shops all scream Scandi cool, decked out in stark monochrome colour schemes. The Gallerian mall off of Regeringsgatan is home to luxury shopping as well as fashionable Scandi brands like & Other Stories or Acne. We take a break at the hyper-chic coffee shop Fabrique, and discover something that would go on to become a recurring theme – Stockholm is a progressive city, and many places are so forwardthinking that they don’t accept cash, only card payments.

So we keep our Kronor in our pockets and let the credit card pick up the slack.

The future of finance isn’t the only area in which Stockholm is a leading thinker; it’s also an incredibly clean, polite and crime-free city. Sweden recently passed a law for six-hour work days, and the general attitude of its capital is relaxed and cheerful. It’s the kind of place where you wouldn’t even dream of littering, but if you did, you get the impression some civic-minded individual would quietly appear out of a bush and pick your rubbish up for you.

My wife is a vegetarian, and as such we sometimes comes across dining hurdles when visiting foreign cities.

I’ve found that in France vegetarianism is more or less seen as a disease, and some cities in the Far East have very loose definitions of what is and isn’t meat – not ideal for a committed veggie. Stockholm, happily, has terrific options for those looking to avoid meat. Even the fast-food chain, Max, offers a wealth of vegetarian (and vegan) choices.

For our first evening meal, though, we walk to Hermans Vegetarian Restaurant, a green oasis on a hill with a garden overlooking Norrmalm. The buffet-style meal may cost USD50 each, but the selection of salads, rice, stews, curries and hot, home-made bread is utterly worth it.

There is a lasagna so good that it would make even the most committed carnivore consider turning to the green side.

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Destinations Stockholm

Suitably fed and watered, we make the short walk to the stunning Fotografiska photography museum that dominates the skyline of Södermalm. Open until 1am on Fridays and Saturdays, it’s home to a regularly changing and interestingly varied selection of work from some of today’s leading photographers. The star attraction on our visit is a portfolio of images by rock star Bryan Adams, who, since the late 1990s, has built a reputation as an expert in celebrity portraits. He’s taken iconic shots of the likes of Kate Moss, Lana Del Rey and Star Wars hero John Boyega.

To make the most of our time in Stockholm, we needed a hotel that was central, and the stunning, boutique Lydmar Hotel fit the bill perfectly. Positioned right next to the imposing Grand Hôtel on the waterfront, the Lydmar is in many ways that hotel’s younger, cooler brother. Trendy art adorns the walls of the lobby and the rooms, and the DJ will be spinning tunes at the terrace bar until the early hours of the morning. From time to time you can also hear, from the comfortable beds, the boats on the harbour balefully tooting their deep horns as they move around the water.

For our base, the Lydmar was perfect – not just from a cityexploring point of view, but because the half-marathon’s starting line is about five minutes’ walk away, in front of the Royal Palace.

Waking up the next morning to a gloriously sunny latesummer day, we decide on a short, leg-saving walk to the nearby Djurgården, one of Stockholm’s many expansive green spaces. It contains the striking Nordic Museum, a Gothic masterpiece that demands dominion of the skyline from kilometres away. Inside, Sweden’s history in design, fashion and entertainment is capably covered, and even on a summer morning it is coolly deserted.

By late afternoon I’m togged in my finest race gear, timing chip attached securely to my right running shoe, and excited to see more of Stockholm from ground level. The race kicks off from Stockholm’s oldest preserved bridge, Norrbro. The route then winds past some of the city’s most picturesque ancient buildings and some of its more modern, including Central Station, the old Sabbatsberg hospital area, and over the Inedalsgatan bridge, which brings with it cooling breezes from the lake and the chance to lord it over runners below who’ve only completed half your distance.

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Destinations Stockholm

November 2016

The Old Town has stunning cobbled streets, a lively bar scene and countless cafés happily serving coffee and cakes to late-night walkers

As my feet pound the pavement over and over, I’m struck by how easy it all isn’t. The serene surroundings are completely at odds with my increasingly ragged breathing.

Bridge follows bridge, stunning lakeside vista follows swooping path through green parkland as I pound on.

Finally, 21 and a bit kilometres later, it’s all over – the last hundred metres a mad dash across the other side of Norrbro, in front of the Swedish Parliament building. It’s another sign of Scandinavia’s relaxed attitude that until relatively recently, the Kungsträdgården, the park area alongside the finish area, was the king’s cabbage garden.

My time, I find out later, is a respectable two hours and three minutes, and I gratefully accept a free recovery coffee and Danish pastry.

Perhaps one of the wisest decisions I’ve ever made was booking a recovery massage at the Grand Hôtel’s Nordic Spa. The space below the hotel has been given over to create a world-class spa facility, with materials all sourced locally. There are limestone walls, pine and spruce wood fixtures and the freshest, bluest water you can imagine.

A full 50% of Stockholm is covered in woodland, so there’s no shortage of the stuff. Legs repaired, we wander into Gamla Stan, Stockholm’s most famous island. It’s known 57

as the Old Town and has stunning cobbled streets, a lively bar scene and countless cafés with tables set out on the streets, happily serving coffee and cakes to late-night walkers – as well as hordes of teens out hunting Pokémon with their mobile phones. During the day, Gamla Stan is the place to come for trinkets and souvenirs, but come dusk it’s full of romantic couples dawdling arm in arm, drinking in the atmosphere.

Not many cities can boast a theme park at their heart, but Stockholm can. The Tivoli Gröna Lund adventure park, found inside Djurgården, is small but perfectly formed.

It’s got rides like the terrifying Fritt Fall Tilt, the world’s highest vertical drop, where your seats rise up and up, above all the other rides, above the highest buildings, above the birds. Then they tilt, to show you exactly how far high up you are – 80 metres, to be precise – and then you drop, sickeningly, your brain separated from your stomach in two and a half seconds. It is brilliant. Elsewhere are roller-coasters, a haunted house, a flying merry-goround and food and drink stalls. It’s the perfect end to a perfectly unplanned trip.

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or log on to dnatatravel.com

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Destinations Maldives

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Destinations Maldives

November 2016

Raw Words : John Thatcher

Like With his consistently curious kids in tow, World Traveller’s editorial director enjoys family time at the naturally striking Soneva Fushi

Fushi

E

very day started the same. Every day started differently. At sunrise I’d be sat in a swing seat on the top-floor veranda of our villa, my eyes glued to the ever-changing vista before me. The glistening strip of light that the rising sun imprinted on the rippling ocean – sometimes shaded orange, on other days a deep pink – would swiftly advance to the shoreline, where it would come to rest, illuminating a half dozen crabs who scurried to bury themselves in the sand to avoid detection. Only the gentle break of the waves beyond the house reef made a sound, and even

it was hushed, as if respectful of being present at the birth of a new day.

All was calm, the peace enchanting, a world away from our family life in Dubai, where at the same point of the morning my wife Victoria and I would be racing against the clock to get our girls dressed (difficult), fed (very difficult) and into the car in a desperate attempt to get a five-minute head start on the other competitors in the school run.

Our daily duel with time suddenly seemed so superfluous. But almost as sudden as that thought had formulated did it dissipate.

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“What time does the kids’ club open?’ asked my eldest daughter Aerin (aged seven), freshly sprung from bed and already wideeyed in anticipation.

“9am,” I replied, folding the page in the book I’d started and aborted countless times since Aerin’s birth.

“Is it 9am now?”

“No, not yet, another two and a half hours to wait.”

“How long is that?” asked Aerin.

“About six episodes of Sofia The First,” I replied, to a despondent groan.

World Traveller

Destinations Maldives

The night sky is so incredibly star-studded it’s as though it has been Photoshopped for guests

This is how I now compartmentalise time.

My trusty weapon against the onslaught of ‘are we there yets’, ‘is it ready yets’ and ‘can we go nows’ is to state the length of some of Aerin’s favourite TV shows. It’s surprisingly effective, too, for at least one third of an episode of Doc McStuffins, anyway. Then impatience takes hold.

Yet there’s every need for a child to grow restless awaiting entry to The Den, Soneva Fushi’s kids’ club-cum-fantasyland. Hidden away behind dense foliage, a telltale sign you’re close to it is the screams of delight emanating from high up in the treetops, through which you can glimpse the tip of a giant water slide.

I looked around to determine just how wide the smiles were on the faces of my two girls (Pandora, aged five, completing the double act) but only their haphazardly discarded bikes remained, the handlebars lodged in the powder-soft sand.

“Best. Holiday. Ever!” exclaimed Aerin, once I’d caught up with her inside, her excitement forcing her to gasp at breaths. “Look!” she then ordered, pointing at everything around her with one full sweep of her arm.

My eyes first met that tree-high, twisting slide, which shoots its riders into one of two swimming pools. Then I was dragged by tiny hand to, in no particular order, a pirate ship, a Lego room, another room containing a range of instruments sufficient to service the New York Philharmonic, a mocktail bar with enough different juices to float that aforementioned pirate ship, and a cinema. It sure beats the den I fashioned from a sleeping bag and stick when about the same age as Aerin.

With our kids in The Den, Victoria and I were at first thrown by the very idea of having time to fill. What was it we actually did before we had the girls? I’m sure it wasn’t snorkelling.

But with our feet wedged into flippers, we

flopped from the speedboat that had ferried us a few hundred yards from the island into an aquarium-esque world where we were all but guaranteed to spot turtles, apparently. Not as certain, though possible, was the likelihood of encountering the scary-sounding titan triggerfish. I’d never heard of it before, let alone seen one, but our fellow snorkeller, Judy, told us of how she was attacked by one, only yesterday, in this very same stretch of water.

“What do you mean by ‘attacked’?” I asked.

“It came at me, bit my behind, and kept on coming, despite me swimming frantically away,” she recounted.

“Did you do anything to annoy it?”

“I just swam, is all.”

At that point, the snorkel trip wasn’t quite as appealing as it had been only seconds earlier, given that our chances of avoiding an attack seemed to rest on not actually swimming while in the ocean, which would presumably bring about drowning. Thankfully, our guide was on hand with the knowledge to bridge the gap between reality and fear-induced fantasy. The titan triggerfish could get angry and attack, yes, but it did so only to protect its nest during the reproductive season, which was coming to an end. Besides, our guide would point out any nests and ensure we avoided them.

While that reassured Victoria and I, it didn’t do much to calm the nerves of Judy, who while snorkelling thought the accidental brush of my flipper on her leg was the triggerfish back for another bite. She did what our guide had told her to do in a repeat situation – lay flat and kick her flippers as hard as she could at the fish, or me, as was the case. In hindsight, I’d have rather been bitten. By the triggerfish, not Judy.

After our girls’ mornings at play in The Den, we spent the rest of our afternoons at leisure in our remarkable residence: the huge, two-floor Villa 1, which looks like it was 60

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Destinations Maldives

November 2016

You take off your shoes because you want your toes to sink into the sand; you don’t wear them to impress fellow guests at dinner

built by Robinson Crusoe with the aid of Man Friday, interior designer Sunday and architect Tuesday. In its outsized pool (free from the threat of triggerfish) I taught Aerin how to snorkel while Victoria helped Pandora practise her swimming strokes. Later we would run time and again from the in-rushing tide as it swallowed up our private stretch of beach, causing both girls to buckle up with laughter.

“Why don’t fish have legs?” asked Pandora as we made our way back into the villa to change for dinner. “Why haven’t we seen a mermaid yet?” “Do jellyfish taste like jelly?” “Do you think we’ll have jelly for dessert?”

I may prove proficient batting away Aerin’s questions about time, but Pandora is a whole different ball game. Her questions range from the merely curious to the philosophical and fantastical, and those in-between that force you to realise that you actually know precious little about anything mundane (how many countries are there in the world?). The one thing that unifies Pandora’s questions is that they are relentless. They spray from her mouth like bullets from a sub-machine gun held by a man with a nervous twitch, hitting anyone within earshot. Which, during a post-dinner trip to the Maldives’ first on-resort observatory, just so happened to be astronomer Adam.

“What’s that?” asked Pandora, pointing at the brightest star to catch her eye.

“Saturn,” replied Adam.

You don’t need an observatory to view the celestial charms at Soneva Fushi; the night sky is so incredibly star-studded it’s as though it has been Photoshopped for guests. But it’s an incredible facility at which to learn more about our solar system, particularly if you like to ask a lot of questions. And so…

“What’s that?” asked Pandora again, unaware that we had walked full circle around the observatory’s viewing level.

“Saturn,” replied Adam.

“Is there a man in the moon?”

“Not that we know of, Pandora, but man has landed on the moon.”

“What’s that?”

“Saturn,” replied Adam, laughing.

Adam could thank his lucky stars it was past Pandora’s bedtime.

I’ve been to many Maldives resorts. I’ve been to resorts where at mealtimes (breakfast included) some guests feel the need to flaunt jewellery of such obvious value that if sold it would raise enough cash to wipe out the debt of a small country. I’ve been to resorts where in spite of the fact that the Maldives is 99% 62

World Traveller

Destinations Maldives

November 2016 Opening page: Azure waters are perfect for snorkelling.

Previous pages: Soneva Fushi.

Opposite: A private villa at Soneva Fushi. This page: Sandbank dining on-resort

ocean, fish are flown in from far and wide to meet the requests of particularly picky guests. And I’ve been to resorts where staff members are trained to only walk sideways when accompanying guests to their rooms so that they can always look them in the eye – unnerving, more than anything else. To my mind, such resorts miss the point. To me, the truly great Maldives resorts are those that encapsulate laid-back, pared-down luxury.

Those resorts that serve to reinforce the fact that you’re on a desert island and encourage you to embrace the uniqueness of it.

Of all the places I have stayed at in the Maldives, Soneva Fushi does this best of all. It offers every conceivable luxury and indulgence – great food utilising islandgrown ingredients, some incredible villas, and spectacular facilities like the observatory and a yacht you can stay on overnight – but it’s not in your face demanding attention. You take off your shoes because you want your toes to sink into the sand; you don’t wear them to impress fellow guests at dinner.

It’s this pervading air that makes Soneva Fushi such a favourite with families and the celebrity set. While we were there, a famous film director and his very famous son (on account of his incredibly famous mother) visibly revelled in their time away from the glare of the public eye (although the son was asked a series of questions by Pandora about what was on his plate when she cornered him at lunch, of course).

On our last evening we took a private cruise at sunset to see dolphins frolic at sea. As we sipped on bubbles and nibbled traditional Maldivian bites, our boat circled around their energetic performance. Then we were taken by another boat from the island’s jetty, 10 or so guests at a time, over to a sandbank on which bars and live cooking stations were set up, lit by flaming torches. It was on account of the resort’s GM hosting a party to which every guest and staff member was invited, a chance to meet and mingle and share tales of that day’s adventures in paradise (such as being kicked to near death while snorkelling).

Almost all the guests we spoke to were repeat visitors to Soneva Fushi. Like them, I’m sure we’ll return here one day and find it just as we had left it: unhurried, unspoilt, unbowed as the original ‘no shoes, no news’ escape. If it has changed by then, I know a little someone who will question why.

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or log on to dnatatravel.com 63

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Weekends xxxx

Weekends

There’s much you can do in just a few days...

• • • • • 65

one weekend for all: aThens p66 48-hour foodie: barcelona p68 The locals’ guide To singapore p70 Travel noTes: al ain oasis p72 sTaycaTions p74

World Traveller

Weekends

Athens For All

November 2016

One Weekend For All In...

Athens

Despite claiming a monopoly on Europe’s historical marvels, there’s nothing backwards about this spectacular city

The Romantic One To Eat • Island Restaurant • Matsuhisa • Dionysos Zonars • Ask a local “Athens is a city for walking. Start at the core of its historic centre, in the Plaka neighbourhood, where you’ll feel almost as if you’re wandering around a Greek island.

Passing by Dionysou Areopaghitou Street, you’ll see the Acropolis Museum on your left, and a little further on you’ll pass the ancient Theatre of Dionysus. Keep walking and you’ll wind up in Monastiraki – an area that’s quintessential ‘old’ Athens with its narrow streets and tiny buildings. It’s also the capital’s traditional bazaar. Enjoy a freddo cappuccino in Agia Eirini Square, right next to Kolokotroni Street, then take a stroll between some of the hippest bars in the city. Don’t miss Zampanó on Sarri Street – this recent addition to Athens’ gourmet stage has a live jazz band to keep you entertained as you tuck into a delicious brunch paired with inspiring beverages.

Enjoy the magic.”

– Athina Simendou

To Stay • Grande Bretagne • Astir Palace • Grecotel Cape Sounio

When you think of ‘romantic Europe’, Athens may not be the first destination to spring to mind, but with fantastic landscapes, incredible sights, and a charm and prettiness like no other, amour in Athens is never far away. Take a walk through Anafiotika – a tiny village within the city – where whitewashed houses splintered with blue windowpanes are decorated in a colourful patchwork of trailing plants and pastel blooms. Afterwards, make for the top of Mount Lycabettus for panoramic vistas from Athens’ highest point. With daily, spectacular sunsets, it’s romance guaranteed.

They say the way to someone’s heart is through their stomach so, while you’re up there, stop

by Orizontes for dinner, where a beautiful outlook and fantastic menu are just the icing on the cake after a day of romanticism. And once night has fallen, the city below comes alive.

Get dressed up and put on your dancing shoes before venturing out to explore the wealth of after-dark options for lovebirds. Try Noel, with its gorgeous retro interiors and enticing mixed drinks, or head to the urban terrace at A for Athens or one of the many other rooftop bars where you can enjoy breathtaking views coupled with a sense of vividness that is only revealed when the sun has set.

• Did you know?

As one of the oldest cities in the world, Athens is credited with being the cradle of civilisation.

It’s the birthplace of democracy, Western philosophy, the Olympic Games and theatre. The capital’s plethora of historical sites and attractions will ensure you get a proper introduction to its fascinating, rich and virile past.

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The Adventurous One To Eat • Strofi Tavern • Central Market • Funky Gourmet

To Stay • Royal Olympic • Zafolia Hotel • The Margi

Crystal-clear waters, colourful marine life and a beautiful climate make Athens perfect for underwater adventures, and there are plenty of scuba and snorkelling spots to choose from.

Head to the Calypso Reef, Reef the Akis Gardens or, a little further south, one of Europe’s only underwater car graveyards, in Legrena – now home to scorpionfish, groupers, octopuses and many more. For something bigger, shipwrecks SS Portugal, Eleni and Apollonia II are all an easy dive from Athens’ coastline. If underwater exploration isn’t your game, perhaps check into Skydive Athens instead. Offering tandem jumps from 14,000ft in the air, you’ll hurtle into the blue before enjoying an incredible free fall combined with a unique perspective of the city in all its glory. If that whets your appetite for airborne fun, you may also want to squeeze in a parasailing session. Take to the skies and soar with the birds – if you’re lucky, your instructor will even let you take control of the steering (but be prepared to use some serious arm strength). After all that adventure, keep things high-octane come evening at Dinner in the Sky Sky, located near the Technopolis. Feast on delicious Greek dishes like dolmadakia or ekmek kataifi as you dangle 50m above ground, drinking in views like no other.

Weekends

Athens For All

The Family-Friendly One To Eat • Philos Athens • Xrysa Xrysa • Athiri

To Stay • Novotel Athens • Plaza Resort Hotel • Sofitel Athens

Tire out young ones and enjoy the stunning surroundings of Malakasa as you fly through the air at Adventure Park. Ideal for thrillseekers, adventure-lovers and anyone who just wants to get out and have fun, glide on zip lines, land in giant hanging nets and tackle swinging wooden steps. There are also bungee trampolines for nippers, or they can try their hand at a spot of archery. The National Garden is a great location for an afternoon picnic. Let the kids play in the falling autumn leaves and point out statues of famous poets and politicians of years gone by as you meander through the grounds. There’s also a small zoo, several pergolas, a children’s playground and a kids’ library to keep little minds busy. Back in town, you can’t miss the bright-red Happy Train trundling through the heart of the city. Perfect for young and old alike, hop off at Monastiraki Square to explore the cobbled narrow streets of Plaka, or use it as a fun way of getting your brood to the Acropolis, the Parthenon or one of the city’s many museums.

When it comes to eating, all the traditional tavernas tend to be child-friendly. Or book into Balcony Restaraunt & Bar, where you can enjoy sparkling Aegean Sea views while little ones have fun in their very own kids’ club.

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November 2016

The Restful One To Eat • Zachari & Alati • Varoulko Seaside • NJV Athens Plaza

To Stay • King George • Divani Caravel Hotel • Athenaeum Athens

For history buffs, Greece’s largest museum is a must-visit. The National Archaeological Museum of Athens houses 11,000 objects from traces of monuments dating from the end of the Peloponnesian War to the start of the Spartan dominance. Trail through the span of civilisation: Aristotle, Caesar’s Civil War, the defeat of Mark Antony and Cleopatra at Actium, and on and on. Another good choice is to step back in time at the only public bathhouse still open in Athens. The Bathhouse of the Winds is a haven for anyone in need of some oldschool relaxation. Part of it has been converted to a museum but you can still take a dip into history as the principal bathing areas have been restored to their original form. In the mood for some downtime in the sun? While Athens is definitely more famous for its history than its beaches, there’s still a plethora of sandy retreats to pick from if an afternoon by the sea is what you’re craving. Head south of the city to Vouliagemi, one of the most popular stretches. While you’re there, stop for lunch in one of the pretty seaside cafés dotted along the beach. Year-round, Philopappos Hill is an excellent place for an evening stroll on its wooded slopes or for soaring a kite far above the city.

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48-Hour Foodie

November 2016

48-Hour Foodie:

Barcelona

With a kaleidoscopic cultural climate, fabled architecture and a gastronomic scene that rivals any in the world, the City of Counts is a foodie’s dream Illustration : Sonny Ross

• Regional delights “Probably the most popular tapas dish ever, all visitors need to try patatas bravas. Thickly cut, fried-to-perfection potatoes piled high and served with flavoursome sauce: just delicious.

Head to La Taverna for an award-winning version. Another must-try is corn tart, which at Disfrutar is served with foie gras.”

– OriOL CastrO, EDuarD XatruCh anD MatEu Casanas Head chefs at Disfrutar • Hot right now “Tapas hot spot Bar Cañete guarantees madeto-order food and a great atmosphere, while petite Quimet & Quimet is another favourite for tapas accompanied by good grape and good humour. When it comes to fusion cuisine, Disfrutar combines the creativity of three ex-chefs from Michelin-starred elBulli and is truly unique. Sense Pressa is a long-standing jewel where proprietor José Luis is on hand to give recommendations on the daily specials.

Take his advice – and, with just a handful of tables, make sure you book ahead. Buried in the Ciutat Vella, Bar Angel has been around for over a century and owner Santi personally sees to it that every visit is original and entertaining – don’t miss the cecina from Léon. Finally, Moments, run by Carme Ruscalleda – the only female chef in the world with seven Michelin stars – and her son Raül Balam, is the place to go for impeccable, innovative, yet very Catalan cuisine to remember.”

– aDrian MOOrE Chef concierge at Mandarin Oriental Barcelona

Day One

Day Two

• Breakfast Small but perfectly formed, the quaint Chök is a must-visit, especially if you have a sweet tooth.

The guys here are obsessed with chocolate and it shows. From decadent handcrafted truffles to trendy kronuts and Chökanias, plus colourful gourmet donuts in over 30 flavours, you’ll be leaving on a sugar high. Lively music accompanies the sweet treats and you can even step into the open kitchen to watch the chocolate masters at work.

• Breakfast A favourite with Catalans, Granja La Pallaresa has been serving up the Spanish speciality drinking chocolate since 1947, so it makes sense that they’ve got the recipe down to perfection. Indulge in velvety smooth, thick, dark chocolate topped with whipped cream and accompanied by a freshly baked churro – the best way to start your day.

• Lunch Located in a half-basement and buzzing with energy, Tapas 24 has a contemporary vibe and a delicious selection of some of Barcelona’s best tapas. Headed up by celebrity chef Carles Abellan, the menu veers away from tradition, instead offering a modern twist on Spanish classics. Go for the Bikini Comerç – a hot sandwich of black truffles, cured Iberian meat and buffalo mozzarella. Get there before 2pm for any chance of a table.

• Dinner Dating back to 1835, 7 Portes is a haven of oldworld dining, delicious paella and spectacular seafood, all housed under an arcaded walkway down near the port. It’s enormous but feels cosy, and the dishes are based on classic recipes with the occasional contemporary spin. Tuck into the meaty Zarzuale lobster casserole and delight in the tinkling from the grand piano, in the heart of Catalonia.

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• Lunch Known for its seafood tapas, tiny Cal Pep is somewhat legendary and the daily queues backing out the door stand testament to that. If you’re lucky, you’ll get one of the very few tables at the back of this stone-walled spot, but if not just perch on a stool at the bar and get ready to taste some of the most amazing, authentic dishes in all of Barcelona. We recommend the trifásico, a delicious combination of calamari, whitebait and prawns cooked with a large dose of Mediterranean know-how.

• Dinner Named after the enormous incense burner hanging in the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela, Botafumeiro is an elegant place to wrap up your time in Barcelona. Run by Galician owner Moncho, fish is sourced from auctions on the Catalan and Galician coasts, then presented by waiters in white jackets.

Feast on fresh clams and oysters or go for the spider-crab pie – a true delicacy. The grape selection is as varied as the seafood.

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October 2016

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The Locals’ Guide

November 2016

The Locals’ Guide To...

Singapore There’s plenty to discover under the skin of one of the world’s most immaculately planned cities

Tan Siuli Curatorial co-head at Singapore Art Museum

Flora iSabelle Founder of floraisabelle.com

For The Love Of Art

Street Style And Souvenirs

• What’s the Singapore Biennale all about?

From now until February, the Biennale is a must-see.

Presenting contemporary art from Singapore and Asia, expect stunning works by both internationally renowned and emerging artists. The works are housed mainly in the Singapore Art Museum and its annex SAM at 8Q, with some at other museums in the Civic District, which themselves are beautiful examples of colonial architecture.

• What’s your go-to shopping destination?

It has to be ION Orchard as it literally has everything – from luxury brands to high-street fashion and even homeware.

Its futuristic design is really something and, if you need a break from all that shopping, there’s also plenty of good food to be found in the mall.

As the Singapore Biennale kicks off, art expert Tan gives us the inside track on where to get your culture fix

• Any other art we should know about?

After checking out some of the Biennale works at the National Museum of Singapore, visit its basement gallery to take in an exhibition of contemporary art from France’s FRAC collections. Photography buffs should make their way to DECK, an independent art space set up in containers, and art enthusiasts should also check out Gillman Barracks.

• What about away from the city centre?

Joo Chiat in the east of Singapore is the place to get your fix of food, culture and retail therapy. It’s a neighbourhood with lots of character, where trendy eateries sit side by side with shops plying traditional rattan furniture. Don’t miss the famous Katong Laksa stall, and follow it with dessert at Sinpopo, a retro-styled café that serves classic Singaporean desserts with a contemporary twist. The area is also known for its Peranakan heritage, and you can find some wonderful examples of Peranakan architecture and crafts here – in particular, around Koon Seng Road. It’s ripe for an afternoon’s wandering – nestled in its streets are the most photogenic colourful houses, a plethora of local food offerings, a small boutique selling genuine Panama hats, a Buddhist temple and a mural by Ernest Zacharevic, the artist who put Penang on the global street-art map.

Popular Singapore-based blogger Flora spills the secrets on the city’s most stylish haunts

• Singapore’s best-kept secret?

Lazarus Island. I think we tend to focus too much on mainland Singapore and, while the city itself is definitely incredibly exciting, sometimes it’s a good idea to take a breather. Hop on the Singapore Island Cruise and head over to St John’s Island – this is the jumping-off point for Lazarus and you can take a stroll around before hitting the beach. Walk across the causeway, follow the path to the left until you reach a timber pavilion and the beach is just a few metres ahead. It’s the ideal place to relax and makes the best quick getaway thanks to its pristine beaches, far from the madding crowd.

• Your top souvenir-buying tip?

Don’t go for tacky souvenirs; instead, pick up some kaya.

It’s our local coconut jam and it goes so, so, so well spread on toast!

• What’s the street style like in Singapore?

It’s definitely all about shorts, given our spectacularly humid weather. I like to pair my denim cutoffs with crop tops, and this season’s off-shoulder tops work well, too.

I complete the look with nude sandals.

• Your favourite beauty hub?

Definitely Sephora, it’s a beauty cavern.

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Weekends

The Locals’ Guide

November 2016

Joo Chiat is the place to get your fix of food, culture and retail therapy

Kaiying liu Sub-editor at thesmartlocal.com

An Edible Obsession

City dweller Kaiying shares her top hyper-local tips on all things foodie • What’s trending food-wise in Singapore at the moment?

Cheese in all forms. Whether it’s melted Raclette over fish and chips, Grana Padano pasta or Cheddar-Jack and mozzarella fondue steamboat, Singaporeans will stop at nothing – and by that I mean queue for hours – to get their cheese fix.

• Where’s the best place to start your day?

Anywhere with a good cup of kopi (Singaporean-style coffee), soft-boiled eggs and kaya toast. This is the quintessential Singaporean breakfast that gives you a little sweetness, a bit of protein and a much-needed caffeine kick to start your morning right.

• The hottest foodie area in town at the moment?

Jalan Besar for sure. It’s been trending for a while thanks to the hipster cafés that popped up a couple of years ago, but it recently attracted quite a number of new hawker stalls that are definitely worth a visit. From fried porridge to Vietnamese BBQ and even a triple-tiered steamboat, the mix of food at Jalan Besar will no doubt continue to draw crowds for the foreseeable future.

• Your personal favourite restaurant in the city?

Mrs Pho at Beach Road is my go-to for a piping-hot bowl of beef pho. This hole in the wall may not be the most comfortable place to dine, but the reasonably priced pho and tasty spring rolls are not only superb but easy on the wallet. I’m such a regular here that the waitresses laugh every time I visit after my nearby yoga class.

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Weekends

Travel Notes

November 2016

Al Ain Oasis The historic oasis at the heart of Al Ain not only gave the city its name but also its date-farming tradition. We explore hidden treasures in this spectrum of unrivalled tranquillity

Al Ain, United Arab Emirates

The sun drops so fast here, as if it’s too tired after giving out so much heat all day

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tunnels was then created to channel the water towards the plantations and each date-palm orchard was granted water for a set amount of time, before its channel was ‘dammed’ using stones and fabric, and the water was diverted to the next orchard. Grateful to the genius behind this impressive system, we dump our daypacks on the ground, kick off our shoes and dip our feet into a cooling pool of water.

From seed to fruit is a long journey for Al Ain’s dates – it can take up to three years for a palm tree to produce its first fruit. “From July, the ratab season starts – fresh, half-ripened dates,” Eisa tells me. “We plant new seeds in September. And there are so many different types: dabbas, khalas, bumaan, all different.”

He hands me another date, this time softer and less sweet but equally delicious.

Overhead, a hoopoe flies past – its spiked feathers splayed and its distinctive threeblast call piercing the air. The cooing of doves bubbles under the surface of the oasis and we continue down pathways, occasionally dipping to avoid an overgrown frond. Snaking through tranquil gardens, the path swerves gently to the left, revealing a tiny square boasting a single minaret. This, explains Eisa, is the Obaid Bin Ali Al Nasseri Mosque. Just 60 sq m in size, this tiny place of worship is now only really frequented by those who tend the land around us, Pakistani and Indian farmers for the most part. A little further on, we stumble across the remains of an old fortification that dates back to the late 19th century, a crumbling piece of history amid the serene plantations.

The sun’s last intense orange has begun to fade and Eisa suggests we head for the exit, explaining, “The sun drops so fast here, as if it’s too tired after giving out so much heat all day.” Overhead, a thin sliver of crescent moon is just visible in the dusk sky, waiting to be joined by a veil of twinkling stars in this haven of stillness – a stillness that, when you leave the oasis, simply ceases to exist.

ooking directly at me, Eisa holds out his hand. In it lies a darkened date. “Do you know what this is?” he asks. I pause for a moment, thinking it’s some sort of trick question. “Umm, a date?” I offer, somewhat hesitantly. Eisa smiles, “Mumtaz. But what date?” I shake my head, uncertain. My knowledge of dates clearly runs shallow.

Dropping the fruit into my hand, Eisa tells me, “It’s a khalas date. You can tell because of the dark red colour. Try it.”

I pop it into my mouth, the moist, sticky texture blending perfectly with the buttery caramel taste – pure, melt-in-your-mouth deliciousness. Under the shade of thousands of towering palm trees, scoffing on such nectar, it’s clear to see why Al Ain Oasis holds a special place in the hearts of many Emiratis.

We’re in the Garden City – so called because of the abundance of greenery – exploring the oldest oasis in the country. Lines of tall palms, heavy with bunches of ripening dates, surround us. Eisa’s family has held land in the oasis for as long as anyone can remember.

Unlike the Bedouin tribes that travelled through the deserts in search of food and water, the people of the oasis have always been farmers, cultivating date-palm trees and keeping camels, goats and sheep.

They lived in small barastis – houses made from palm fronds – carefully fenced off both for privacy and to keep away shifting sands.

During summer, the younger men would go en masse to the coast to join the pearl divers, supplementing the family income and leaving the women, children and older men to tend to the farms and enjoy the slightly cooler, less humid weather of the desert.

Wandering under the shade of 147,000 date palms, we walk on in silence, observing the unobtrusive tinkling of the ancient falaj watering network. Dating back thousands of years, the water originally came from the top of Jebel Hafeet, a mountain some 30km away, where a series of wells were dug. A network of

Words : Hayley Skirka Illustration : Antra Svarcs 72

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Weekends

Travel Notes

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October 2016

Weekends

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November 2016

Staycations

Staycations

Sometimes you just need to get away from it all. With our comprehensive round-up of great places to escape to across the GCC, you’re all set for a weekend of stress-free fun

Four Seasons Hotel Riyadh

Crowne Plaza Dubai

Bab Al Qasr

millenniumhotels.com/en/abudhabi/bab-al-qasr-hotel

Armed Forces Officers Club

fourseasons.com/riyadh

crowneplaza.com/dubai

Location SauDi arabia

Location Dubai

Location abu Dhabi

Location abu Dhabi

In a nutshell An upscale hotel that blends prime location (in the Kingdom Centre, one of Saudi Arabia’s most spectacular properties) with the very best in Arabian hospitality, in the heart of the intriguing maze that is Riyadh.

In a nutshell This Sheikh Zayed Road stalwart is absolutely huge, boasting 13 restaurants and bars coupled with impressive views and excellent amenities. Its central location means you’re never too far from where you need to get to and the staff go out of their way to make you feel at home.

In a nutshell Located on the picturesque Corniche and boasting one of the city’s largest private beaches, check into this Arabian-inspired property for true indulgence.

The sumptuous Moroccan spa provides a soothing escape.

In a nutshell Perfectly located just a stone’s throw from the gorgeous Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque and only 15 minutes from downtown, this place offers unmatched local hospitality and heritage.

Selected suite With fantastic views from the 50th floor, the Pearl Four Seasons Executive Suites are solely for women and come with abayas and yoga mats for every guest.

Cuisine Tuck into premium steaks prepared in a semi-open kitchen at The Grill, and opt to sit poolside or on authentic Majlis-style seating.

Selected suite Spacious Premier Rooms overlook the Arabian Sea and are beautifully contemporary with just the right hint of Moroccan spirit.

Selected suite Soak away any stresses in the King Executive Suite’s whirlpool bath, before taking advantage of complimentary access to the exclusive club lounge.

Cuisine For delicious Peruvian dishes and South American flavours, Limo Restaurant is an exciting urban eatery where the service is as high-quality as the ingredients.

Cuisine Elegant and understated, Sakura offers some of the best Japanese food in all of Dubai.

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afoc.mil.ae

Selected suite The Presidential Suites’ unique design balances Arabian luxury with sophisticated style. Check out the spacious bathrooms and enjoy your very own Jacuzzi, as well as a private balcony looking onto the manicured club gardens.

Cuisine For a casual dinner with family and friends, Taverna serves delicious Mexican food with a cosy ambience.

Weekends

World Traveller

November 2016

Staycations

Qasr Al Sarab

qasralsarab.anantara.com

Location abu Dhabi In a nutshell For a true Arabian fairy-tale stay, there’s no better place than Qasr Al Sarab. Hidden amid the rolling sand dunes of the mystical Empty Quarter, enjoy sun-soaked landscapes, desert wildlife and stunning sunsets in this luxurious sanctuary.

Selected suite The ultimate in seclusion, Royal Pavilion Villas are decked out with rich, sumptuous fabrics and carefully selected local artefacts – a desert retreat like no other.

Cuisine Intimate and upscale with stunning vistas from its rooftop terrace, Suhail offers prime cuts of beef from all over the globe.

Marsa Malaz Kempinski kempinski.com/marsa-malaz

• Ask the concierge Chief concierge Roslyn Chau Arnante gives us her tips

Location Doha In a nutshell A fusion of sophistication and elegance, check in here to be thoroughly spoiled.

Selected suite Just try to resist the charm of the Royal Suite, with its carefully considered interior design, breathtaking views and private whirlpool.

Cuisine Head to El Faro for authentic Spanish tapas and delicious paella in an art-inspired setting.

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Of the many guest rooms, which is your favourite?

The Grand Deluxe Rooms all offer premium sea views over The Pearl-Qatar, as well as a giant king bed and spacious outdoor areas – perfect for a luxury weekend getaway.

What’s the most popular spa treatment?

Clarins’ Art of Touch – guests love it because of the perfect blend of aromatherapy oils accompanied by therapeutic and relaxing massage to balance your inner senses.

And your favourite on-site restaurant?

Al Sufra. Your journey begins the moment you walk through the door and are welcomed by its rich colour palette, and this is followed by a culinary adventure where every mouthful boasts the chefs’ passion for flavour.

Weekends

World Traveller

Abu Dhabi

November 2016

Courtesy of the artist and Cuadro Fine Art Gallery, Dubai

When Art And Cars Collide

Clockwise from left: Faig Ahmed’s large-scale installation is part of Beyond at Abu Dhabi Art; the Formula One Etihad Airways Abu Dhabi Grand Prix is the only twilight race in the F1 calendar; Yas Marina Circuit

It’s all go in the capital this month as both Abu Dhabi Art and the Formula One Grand Prix roll into town

F

orget Paris and New York; Abu Dhabi is the emerging international arts hub to watch.

This month, the world’s leading artistic talents will converge at Manarat Al Saadiyat for Abu Dhabi Art. Celebrating the UAE’s continuously evolving art scene, a diverse programme will showcase the freshest works from internationally acclaimed artists including Lawrence Weiner and Wang Dongling. Middle Eastern names are also in the mix, with Abdul Qader Al Rais, Ahmad Angawi and Bassam Geitani all featured.

This year, four top curators from across the globe have collaborated to transform the annual fair into a true concept of discovery and discourse. In one particular highlight, Alexandra Munroe of the Solomon R Guggenheim Museum and Foundation is curating an interactive exhibit by influential Beijing artist Gu Dexin – a large-scale installation that shouldn’t be missed.

Some of the world’s foremost modern and contemporary galleries will exhibit never-

before-seen artworks, most of which are available to purchase. Taking place from 16 to 19 November, the boutique fair will also include a variety of talks, tours, workshops and performances – all of which reflect the capital’s blossoming creative agenda.

Once you’ve had your culture fix, it’s time for a complete change of pace as the 2016 Formula One Etihad Airways Abu Dhabi Grand Prix speeds into town from 25 to 27 November.

Now in its eighth edition, the internationally renowned event is expected to attract over 60,000 fans from all over the world.

There’s fun to be had on and off the track with interactive games and entertainment zones behind the grandstand and in the F1 Village. And as night falls, things will really heat up with The Chemical Brothers, Lionel Richie and Rihanna all due to perform. This year, all ticket holders will also get free access to Ferrari World and Yas Waterworld – the perfect excuse to extend your weekend in the capital as you get set for the race of a lifetime.

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• Stay here: Check into the glass-fronted Dusit Thani Abu Dhabi and prepare to be impressed by the level of service and stylish lodgings. If you really want to indulge, reserve the palatial Royal Suite with stunning views over the Eastern Mangroves reserve. Just 20 minutes from Saadiyat Island, the hotel is ideally located for visiting Abu Dhabi Art. Dine on delicious Thai food in Benjaron restaurant, then take some time out from the buzz of the weekend with a treatment in the soothing Namm Spa. dusit.com/dusitthani/abudhabi

NATIONAL DAY GETAWAY Early booking offers Available now

MISS IT, MISS OUT!

Book at dnatatravel.com call 800 DNATA (36282) or visit your nearest dnata Travel outlet Download our app

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Weekends

dnata Offers

November 2016

dnata

Weekend Offers To book any of these offers, call +971 4 316 6666, visit a dnata outlet or log on to dnatatravel.com

Oman

shangri-la barr al jissah resort & spa, al waha 2 nights from USD241 per person Special offer: 30% discount on room rate, complimentary upgrade to Superior Sea View Room, 15% discount on F&B, plus kids under 12 stay and eat for free Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast daily Validity: Now ’til 31 Jan 2017 anantara al jabal al akhdar resort 3 nights from USD615 per person Special offer: Stay 2 nights and receive an additional night free Includes: Stay in a Premier Canyon View Room with breakfast daily Validity: Now ’til 30 Nov 2016

UAE

crowne plaza abu dhabi – yas island 1 night from USD72 per person Special offer: 20% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast Validity: Now ’til 30 Apr 2017

grand MillenniuM dubai 1 night from USD91 per person Special offer: 30% discount on room rate, complimentary upgrade to next room type, 25% discount on F&B (excludes Ahwak and Lock Stock & Barrel) Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast Validity: Now ’til 30 Nov 2016

keMpinski hotel & residences palM juMeirah 1 night from USD255 per person Special offer: 35% discount on room rate, complimentary upgrade from Superior 1 Bedroom Suite to Ocean 2 Bedroom Suite (4 adults + 2 children), early check-in, late check-out, book a 30-min massage and get 60 mins Includes: Stay in a Superior 1 Bedroom Suite with breakfast Validity: Now ’til 31 Dec 2016

sofitel dubai juMeirah beach 1 night from USD175 per person Special offer: 20% discount on room rate when booked 7 days in advance Includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast Validity: Now ’til 30 Dec 2016 78

Clockwise from top left: Al Ain Rotana; Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort; Kempinski Hotel & Residences Palm Jumeirah; Sofitel Dubai Jumeirah Beach; Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah Resort & Spa, Al Waha; Grand Millennium Dubai; Crowne Plaza Abu Dhabi – Yas Island

al ain rotana 1 night from USD71 per person Special offer: 30% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in a Classic Room with breakfast Validity: Now ’til 30 Dec 2016

Weekends

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Win!

An authentic, indulgent retreat for two at the newly opened Anantara Kalutara Resort

Competition

K

alutara is the ideal base for a short break on the teardrop island of Sri Lanka.

Located less than an hour from Colombo Airport and nestled into the ruggedly beautiful southwest coast, the Anantara Kalutara Resort is a true indulgence. Surrounded by tropical gardens, every one of the 141 rooms, suites and pool villas is tastefully designed, with an elegant fusion of local charm and intricate craftsmanship accented by stunning views.

Enjoy a vantage over the Indian Ocean or the Kalu Ganga river, framed by swaying coconut palms and bright blue skies.

This month’s prize could see you bedding down in one of the resort’s spaciously appointed Deluxe Lagoon View rooms during a three-night stay for two people. Relax on a private terrace, feast on Pan-Asian delicacies in Spice Traders, tuck into delicious all-day 79

November 2016

dining at Olu, or try the classic Italian dishes of Acquolina – it’s the perfect place to make memories. To be in with a chance of winning, simply answer the following question: What type of cuisine is served at Acquolina?

A) Thai B) Sri Lankan C) Italian Email your answer to easywin@hotmedia publishing.com by 30 November 2016.

Prize voucher is valid for two people and includes daily breakfast and dinner. Valid until May 2017, excluding 15 Dec 2016–31 Jan 2017. Flights are not included. For more information on the hotel visit kalutara.anantara.com

World Traveller

Suite Dreams

November 2016

Suite Dreams Our monthly ‘finish with a flourish’, delving into a unique suite whose character and style will set you apart

What: TAIPAN SUITE

I

Where: Mandarin Oriental, Las Vegas

When it comes to entertaining, there’s nowhere quite like Vegas – and the Taipan Suite boasts a private dining room that’s perfectly poised to host an immaculate dinner party. The adjoining kitchen with butler entrance ensures seamless service.

But should you manage to pull yourself away from the splendour of your suite, you won’t have to venture far for further indulgence. All suite guests also enjoy complimentary access to the hotel’s huge Shanghaithemed spa, spread over two floors, while the city’s hottest table – Twist

by Pierre Gagnaire – is a mere elevator ride away. It’s Gagnaire’s only US outpost, and the model of fabulous fine dining. mandarinoriental.com/lasvegas

n mid-19th-century China, any non-native Chinese businessfolk heading up a company were referred to as Taipans, so it’s quite fitting that at the Mandarin Oriental, Las Vegas, that’s the title of the presidential suite – a space truly fit for a leader.

Perched on the 20th floor of the hotel – one of the few on Sin City’s iconic strip not to have an in-house casino and all the better for it – the Taipan Suite offers spectacular views, including a half-scale replica of the Eiffel Tower. The grand two-bedroom space boasts contemporary interiors by internationally renowned designer Adam Tihany. Deep gold and vibrant red touches, dark wood furnishings and delicate silk cushions pepper this chic setting, alluding to the hotel’s Oriental roots.

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THIS IS WHERE TH E W IL D ON E S L IV E f o u r- l e g g e d , b l a ck - s p o t t e d , tall-necked and untamed, y o u m e e t t h e m u n d e r a c a c i a t re e s and over cups of coffee in your private villa.

A s y o u e m b a r k o n s a f a r is i n t h i s c o n s e r v a t i o n re s e r v e a n d ex p l o re t h e r u i n s o f w o r l d s l o n g f o rg o t t e n , you will come face-to-face w i t h y o u r ch i l d h o o d d re a m s .

YOUR E X T RAORDI NA RY STORY

S i r B a n i Ya s I s l a n d . v i s i t a b u d h a b i . a e

Tropical escapes for a

WHITE SAND CHRISTMAS

Swap a Christmas tree for a palm tree in the Seychelles.

Enjoy the holidays on a private paradise island that offers you a haven of luxury and discover a whole new meaning to festive celebrations. Try the delicious authentic cuisine and relax at the spa.

For bookings or more information, please call +971 4 814 5678 or email eir.seychelles@jaresorts.com jaresortshotels.com

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