The Region’s BiggesT LuxuRy TR av eL Magazine
issue one hundred and Two | october 2016
Produced in International Media Production Zone
South An unreserved exploration of unique savannah retreats, for when trailing the Big Five
Complimentary Copy
Iceland
A family-friendly Nordic epic of fire, ice and adventures to entice
poland
With galleries, park life, culture and chic, Warsaw is a slice of pure Euro-popularity
taIwan
Heritage and modernity in harmony: Taipei awaits those with an appetite for intrigue
World Traveller
Welcome
October 2016
Editor’s Note Managing Director Victoria Thatcher Editorial Director John Thatcher Group Commercial Director David Wade Editor Chris Ujma Sub-Editor Emma Laurence Contributing Editor Hayley Skirka Art Director Andy Knappett Designer Emi Dixon Illustrations Bett Norris Business Development Manager Rabih El Turk rabih@hotmediapublishing.com +971 4 369 0915 Production Manager Muthu Kumar
October 2016 Issue one hundred and TWo The chance to see something entirely new – or, perhaps, something familiar, presented from a different, intriguing perspective: that’s the essence of travel. It’s an ethos channelled by our designers, who have expertly given your monthly collection of destination inspiration a suave new look. Behind the aesthetics is a compilation of places to pick up your mood before the post-summer blues kick in, and laced into the detail is an added dash of expertise. For example, we’ve plundered the minds of an award-winning Lyon-based chef and a respected French concierge – as well as a Dubai-based trio comprised of revered fashionista, foodie savant and art-gallery supremo – all to provide you with (even more) nuggets of in-the-know gold. Travel, after all, is about experiences, both visual and experiential. Within this issue you’ll find ideas to ignite the imagination, from Finland to Taiwan, Qatar to Iceland, and from Warsaw to wild safaris, with a common element that will allure you to each: their poetic ability to create a first – and lasting – impression.
Chris Ujma
christopher@hotmediapublishing.com
Jun-Dec 2015 | 22,984 | BPA Consumer Audit Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller. Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494
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World Traveller
Contents
Contents
October 2016
P8-33
Unwrap the culinary, art and style secrets of Dubai with our all-new Locals’ Guide on page 70
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Be here noW................................... p8 Awe-inspiring sights, be they made by man or the forces of nature: Norway’s Atlantic Ocean Road and Mexico’s Copper Canyon GloBeTroTTer............................ p13 An exciting new hotel arrival, hidden-destination secrets and the latest must-know travel trends My CITy............................................ p18 An insider look around the Flacq district of Mauritius, which has much in the way of both luxury and authentic local experiences Chef’s Top TaBles.....................p22 Jereme Leung of Conrad Maldives Rangali Island talks us through his recommended restaurants around the globe spoTlIGhT on.............................. p24 How to have a totally sophisticated experience in that perennial ol’ destination of comfort, London sTyle & Wellness.....................p26 Spa news, travel accessories and fashion to make your upcoming excursion that bit more stylish 5
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Contents
October 2016
P34-64
P65-80
Destinations
Weekends
IConIC helsInkI......................... p34 As Qatar Airways launches a daily flight to the Finnish capital, it’s time to get familiar with Helsinki’s most recognised cultural delights
one Weekend for all ................. p66 Oktoberfest jollities are just one element of Munich; there’s also ample opportunity for romance, adventure, relaxation and family fun
souTh afrICa.............................. p38 Not all safaris are born alike; we take a comprehensive look at some of the best reserves when on the hunt for the country’s famed Big Five
48-hour foodIe................................ p68 The dining delights of Lyon – with an expert word from a Michelinstarred chef and some hot-table tips from a top-notch concierge
TaIWan........................................... p46 From soaring state-of-the-art towers to hiking trails and delicious dumplings (with a street view), Taipei packs a compact trip
The loCals’ GuIde To duBaI...... p70 Banish the smoke and mirrors with trusted local opinion on how to get the most from the Dubai’s art, shopping and food scenes
poland............................................p52 Warsaw’s gritty galleries, kitsch-cool park life and retro-sexy architecture mean it’s becoming a travel must
Travel noTes.................................... p72 The GCC is blessed with cultural wonders that harbour a fascinating story to be told. We start by exploring the intrigue of Doha’s Souq Waqif
ICeland.......................................... p58 It’s not all Björk, volcanoes and the Northern Lights; okay, it’s admittedly some of that. One family explores the otherworldly
sTayCaTIons....................................... p75 There’s no need to travel far to secure a memorable hotel stay. This is our monthly look at some notable properties within the MENA region 6
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Be Here Now
October 2016
Be Here Now
Atlantic Ocean Road, Norway October is the perfect time to explore Norway, a country crammed with heart-stealing scenery and those famous fjords. The myriad, magnificent colours of autumn are at their most vibrant now, while the roads are sparse of traffic – what little there is during the country’s high season of summer having long since disappeared. Time, then, to hit the open road. And roads don’t come any more spectacular than the 8km stretch known as the Atlantic Ocean Road. Built in 1989, it runs from the municipality of Averøy to Eide on the Romsdal peninsula, linking several small islands via eight bridges along the way. You can stop to drink in the most awe-inspiring vistas the route affords at designated pull-ins, right at the very edge of the ocean – just don’t forget to bring your camera (and wrap up warm). 8
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Be Here Now
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October 2016
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October 2016
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October 2016
Copper Canyon, Mexico In the heart of Mexico’s Tarahumara Mountains is the country’s answer – and superior – to America’s Grand Canyon: Copper Canyon. Like the Grand Canyon, the sheer scale of this natural wonder, though actually longer and deeper than its famous counterpart, takes the breath, with dramatic landscapes of forest and desert spread across its 60,000km. The high heat of summer has passed and the chill winds of winter remain at bay during October, allowing you to immerse yourself in this vast geological marvel. Hiking and horseback are common ways to explore, but for us nothing beats the 14-hour Copper Canyon train journey that runs between Chihuahua, the state capital, and Los Mochis in the neighbouring state of Sinaloa. You’ll cross 39 bridges spanning ravines, head through 86 tunnels, and bring back one lasting memory of what is among the world’s most incredible train journeys. 11
feeling like a VIP that’s Kilban’s marhaba effect The difference is the staff. So caring. I’m just an ordinary traveller but marhaba makes me feel like a VIP. With people like this, there is only one way you can go—up, up and up! Kilban
Breeze through all the airport formalities with our meet & greet services in Dubai and Bahrain. Whether you’re arriving, departing or transferring, marhaba meet & greet makes your time at the airport something to look forward to. You can also relax in style, no matter what your airline or class of travel, at our lounges in Dubai and Bahrain. Find your marhaba effect at marhabaservices.com
meet & greet | family packages | marhaba lounge | citystop | transfer service
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Globetrotter
October 2016
Globetrotter Here’s what’s hot in travel this month…
New arrival: AvAni RiveRside BAngkok Hotel
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n the flat-as-a-pancake city of Bangkok, elevated vistas are something to be treasured, and the brand-new Avani Riverside has views aplenty. Wrap your head around the scale of the sprawling Thai capital from the 26th floor of Avani’s first purpose-designed hotel, and drink in amazing vantages of the Chao Phraya River, known as the River of Kings. At the aptly named Skyline restaurant, you can tuck into a delicious breakfast while watching the sun rise spectacularly over the city, or see the sun go down as you feast on dinner. The Long Bar is the ideal spot for a few refreshments, while The Pantry is the place to go for artisanal deli snacks served around the clock. Come nightfall, it’s all about the attitude – specifically, Attitude Sky Bar, which is quickly becoming Bangkok’s 13
hippest new hot spot. An indoor lounge with a DJ booth, show kitchen and fully stocked grape wall awaits, as well as cocktails that come courtesy of world-class mixologists. We recommend the Molecule of Love, a refreshing mix of raspberry and coconut liqueurs topped with strawberryflavoured caviar pearls. The bustle of the city can get a little crazy, so take time out with a visit to the blissful AvaniSpa, where treatments are tailored to your needs – whether you’re after a soothing oil massage to de-stress or a more invigorating treatment to re-energise your senses. The hotel’s riverside location means all of Bangkok’s many attractions are easily accessible, with shuttle-boat services linking to the Asiatique night market and the BTS Skytrain at the central Saphan Taksin boat pier.
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Globetrotter
October 2016
• Food for thought The WhiTe STuff Italian cuisine is already famed the world over, but October is the time to step away from the pasta and instead get sniffing out some of the world’s finest white truffles. The International White Truffle Fair takes over the pretty town of Alba in northwest Italy every weekend from 8 October to 27 November and features mountains of the pungent fungus. With the most rare (and expensive) types commanding up to USD100 per kilogram, this really is a finedining fan’s playground.
V S
Kyoto
Autumn leaves are to Japan’s fall what cherry blossoms are to its spring. Head east and indulge in authentic luxury, or bed down beside a World Heritage Site The riTz-CarlTon, KyoTo • What to expect? An air of Zen prevails at this five-tier property on the banks of the Kamo River. With sweeping views of the Higashiyama mountains, all 134 rooms and 17 suites were designed to honour the cultural heritage of Kyoto. The Tatami suites incorporate their namesake tatami mats, while the Tsukimi suite offers a private garden with traditional moon-viewing deck and three-storey waterfall. Don’t miss the extensive art collection themed on Murasaki Shikibu’s 11th-century novel The Tale Of Genji. • Where? Overlooking the Kamo River, the area has been favoured by noblemen since the 17th century. With easy access to the vibrant districts of Gion, Ponto-chō and Kawaramachi, there’s a whole host of world-class shopping nearby. • Must-do? Indulge in tradition by donning a kimono and enjoying an authentic Japanese lunch in the Ebisugawa-tei dining room at La Locanda, or sip on arguably the world’s best sake paired with kaiseki cuisine. ritzcarlton.com/kyoto
Surain, a luxury ColleCTion hoTel, KyoTo • What to expect? You’d be forgiven for thinking you’ve stepped into a silkscreen painting when you check into the Surain. This 39-room property was formerly the private residence of a 19thcentury industrialist and retains strong Japanese concepts. With lush gardens, chirping birds and tinkling waterfalls, this is serenity at large. The waterside Café Saryo Hassui is perfect for sundowners, while Kyo Surain serves stylish cuisine in a swanky setting. • Where? Just steps from Kyoto’s Tenryū-ji World Heritage Site, in the leafy Arashiyama district of the city, the whole area is filled with colour – from the jade-green Katsura River to the lightfilled bamboo forest. • Must-do? In autumn, request an upper-floor room to benefit from stunning views of Arashiyama’s flame-red maple trees. Otherwise, go for a ground-floor room, all of which come with small but perfectly formed Japanese gardens. surainkyoto.com/en 14
• Culture india’S neWeST honour Le Corbusier, the Swiss icon of modernism, will always be known as someone who changed the face of architecture and his work at Capitol Complex in Punjab’s Chandigarh is no exception. Featuring the Open Hand Monument – a symbol of peace and the city’s official emblem – it’s been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in a move that puts the North Indian region back on the map. Spread across 1,000 acres, Corbusier’s complex includes the High Court, Secretariat and Palace of Assembly, all of which are prime examples of classic 1950s architecture. The Oberoi Sukhvilas Resort & Spa in the Siswan forest range is a recent addition to the luxury realm and the perfect base for exploring, located just outside the city. Set within 8,000 acres of private forest, it features spacious villas and tented suite accommodation with private pools and personal butler service.
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Globetrotter
October 2016
Three ways to…
Brave a spine-tingling stay
Forget pumpkins and trick or treat – if you really want to get into the Halloween spirit, consider a stay in one of these hallowed hotels for some frighteningly good fun Place d’Armes Hotel, New Orleans Often touted as America’s most haunted city, there’s no shortage of hotels with spectacular tales to be found in the Big Easy, and this one is up there with the best. The city’s great fire of 1788 completely wiped out the site now occupied by the hotel, just steps away from Bourbon Street and Jackson Square. Embodying New Orleans charm at its finest, beautifully restored 18th- and 19th-century buildings surround a verdant courtyard and pool. You may even be lucky enough to encounter the hotel’s oldest guest – a mysterious bearded man who reportedly appears and disappears through its hallways. placedarmes.com
The Langham, London This grand, historic hotel dates back to 1865 and boasts almost 500 rooms. Having recently undergone a USD95 million restoration, the hotel offers a quintessential London experience complete with some infamous guests who have never checked out. If you’re feeling particularly brave, ask for room 333 – but don’t complain if you end up sharing it with a ‘man shape’ dressed in Victorian garb. Spookiness aside, escape to the state-of-the-art Chuan Spa, or get out and explore the city. The West End is on your doorstep, while Madame Tussauds, Buckingham Palace and some of the capital’s best art galleries are all within easy reach, too. langhamhotels.com/london 16
Mountain Park Hotel, Bulwer With its creaking floors and low ceilings, this place lays claim to no less than seven spooky guests. Nestled at the base of the majestic Amahaqwa Mountain, you can take part in the South African resort’s renowned ghost tour every Saturday, and there are prizes for the best paranormal photos captured on location. Discover unknown footsteps in the hallways, doors that close by themselves and furniture that appears to move of its own accord. When you’ve had your fill of ghost-hunting, there’s horse riding, swimming, tennis and bowling to enjoy, and the Marutswa Forest Trail and Boardwalk just a 10-minute drive away. holiday.org.za/mountainpark.html
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Globetrotter
October 2016
• Style seven BAgs foR seven Cities Take a stylish trip around the world with Versace’s new limited-edition handbags When Versace hosted a global design contest, encouraging participants around the world to suggest a landmark that represents their city, the winners were Milan, Beijing, Tokyo, Hong Kong, São Paulo, Paris and New York. Now, each of these cities has been immortalised on one of the Italian stalwart’s Palazzo Empire bags, complete with signature lion-embellished clasp. The Toyko design features a dusky Mount Fuji, while São Paulo’s cool blue tones pay tribute to the upbeat city. Paris is depicted in typical romantic shades, and the beloved Brooklyn Bridge takes pride of place in the New York homage. Decisions, decisions.
• Insider going undeRgRound Al Hoota Cave, Oman’s most popular natural tourist destination, has reopened to the public after an extensive renovation. An expertly curated geological exhibition, electric passenger train and new lighting system, which can be manipulated to both preserve energy and minimise disruption to cave inhabitants, are all part of the site’s new look. Estimated to be over two million years old, the cave is located at the foot of Jebel Shams, the country’s highest mountain. Clocking in at around 4.5km in length, this underground wonderland includes four lakes and is home to Oman’s rare blind fish – the garra barreimiae – as well as a host of bats, arthropods, spiders, snails and water beetles.
• App sky guRu Nervous flier? Help is at hand in the form of ingenious new app SkyGuru. Aimed to calm anxious passengers by ensuring they know exactly what is going on at all times, the app acts like a virtual pilot sat beside you, explaining what’s happening during the flight and what to expect next. It also dishes out reassuring messages during high-stress moments such as turbulence or takeoff. Available on iOS, it’s USD19.99 well spent.
• Going up in the world tHe veniCe of tHe eAst Where? Bangkok. Why? The Thai capital became the first Asian city to top MasterCard’s Global Destination Cities Index this year, edging out London to claim the top spot. What? There’s more to Bangkok than the Khaosan Road. We recommend hiring a bicycle and heading out to discover the capital’s hidden treasures on two wheels. Cycle the bridge over the mighty Chao Phraya River and get ready to discover Ayutthaya-era temples, colourful local floating markets, street food stalls and ancient Thai, Chinese and Portuguese shrines. 17
Where to stay? Nestled along the River of Kings, among the city’s historical palaces, temples and museums, The Siam is a boutique hotel that’s defintely worth checking out. Designed by globally acclaimed architect Bill Bensley and occupying three acres of riverside land, this place offers up a little taste of authentic Thailand served with a side of luxury. Check into an intimately private pool villa with rooftop terrace and lush gardens, then dine at Chon Thai – set within a cluster of three century-old teak-wood houses that have played host to the likes of Jackie Kennedy, Roger Moore and Henry Ford. thesiamhotel.com
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World Traveller
October 2016
My City
My City
Flacq, Mauritius
DaliDa Noellis
Having lived in Mauritius for over 20 years, the assistant manager at Constance Le Prince Maurice knows its secrets
W
hile the entirety of Mauritius is stunning, it’s so easy to fall in love with Flacq – I’ve been living on the east coast for around 23 years now. Although not strictly a city, it’s safe to say Flacq is one of the most important districts of Mauritius, now affectionately known as Ville de Coeur. Let’s start with sightseeing: there’s plenty to keep the visitor (and indeed, the local) engaged within the area. Stunning architecture galore comes in many forms: the Sagar Shiv Mandir Hindu temple sits pretty at Poste de Flacq, while the the Catholic church of Notre Dame du Bon Secours (situated in Trou d’Eau Douce, formerly called Cronenburg) is the most beautiful of its denomination, the oldest being Saint Julien on the east coast. For the avid golfer there are championship courses such as Legend – the island’s first 18hole golf course, opened in 1994. Another local pioneer is Flacq Market – the largest outdoor version of its kind in Mauritius, it becomes a hive of activity on Wednesdays and Sundays,
when you can find local products such as vegetables and street food, as well as more long-lasting mementos and souvenirs. Being on the coast, all things water come to influence a lot of memorable activities. There are excellent fly-fishing spots in the unique Barachois on the east coast, sunset cruises to take on the lagoon in Belle Mare, where you’ll also find a public beach that’s among the most beautiful along this stretch. It’s a real wind trap here, which means exceptional conditions for learning to wind- and kitesurf. Those with a penchant for diving can take a short drive to Beau Champ, where they’ll be handsomely rewarded with seeing eagle rays, whitetip reef sharks and other inhabitants of these waters. Personally I like to take a nature walk in Bras d’Eau National Park. Migratory birds flock to (and from) Mare Sarcelle, a four-hectare lake just off the walker’s trail. All manner of birds take sanctuary here, and the towering trees and fascinating plants make it a must-visit for the naturally curious. 18
All that exploring can work up an appetite, and there are many fine places in Flacq to dine: try Le Café des Arts (for artistic fare served up in a former Victoria Sugarcane factory) and Chez Tino (for its delectable seafood), both in Trou d’Eau Douce, and Seabell (home of the world-famous prawn curry) in Bras d’Eau. Without being biased, Constance Hotels and Resorts has its fair share of outstanding dining outlets, too, such as Le Barachois at Constance Le Prince Maurice and La Spiaggia at Constance Belle Mare Plage. While you can easily immerse yourself in the local culture here, Flacq also has its fair share of luxury – opting for a well-appointed room at either Constance Belle Mare Plage in Pointe de Flacq or Constance Le Prince Maurice in Poste de Flacq assures a sophisticated stay while in town. The first map of Flacq may have been designed in 1722, but there are still plenty of hidden treasures to explore in this wonderful corner of the Indian Ocean isle.
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World Traveller
Ask The Expert
October 2016
Ask The Expert
Rob Arrow
Head of product at dnata
Rob Arrow is a self-confessed hotel geek. With over a decade of experience in the luxury travel industry, Rob loves nothing more than talking hotels and discovering destinations. His favourite country is Lebanon, his beloved city is Melbourne, and his dream is to own a boutique retreat in the Italian Alps
Q. A.
Which destinations are perfect for a travel pick-me-up, to banish those post-summer blues? With a few months to go until that extended end-of-year break, there are a number of long weekends still to be had – including National Days across the GCC and, of course, Islamic New Year – before the winter warmers come flocking to the region to heat up. A short flight or car journey and you can be in Oman, relaxing at The Chedi Muscat and letting the hours melt away at its amazing pool. Or, a few hours away by plane, Istanbul makes a fun trip, to shop in Taksim or stroll the designer streets of Nişantaşi. Unwind in The St. Regis Istanbul and its rooftop restaurant with big, open vistas of the park and Bosphorus below. If you really need to get away from it all and fancy a longer flight, Sri Lanka is getting back to grips with upscale resorts. Cape Weligama offers you the best of the Indian Ocean but with that famed Sri Lankan service – combine it with a seaplane sojourn to sister resort Ceylon Tea Trails in the tea-picking mountains. Of course you could just fly and flop in the Maldives; two or three nights here can do as much as seven elsewhere. Before December the resorts are quiet so you won’t have too many people to interrupt your magical moments alone. Soneva Fushi has always been an ultimate chill property, where it’s easy to just do nothing, or for somewhere very easy to get to, Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Kuda Huraa is just a 20-minute speedboat ride from the airport and still one of the finest boutique family-friendly resorts the Maldives has to offer. Nothing is too much for the team here.
Q. A.
There are some major new luxury hotels opening this season – which ones have particularly caught your eye? Although the luxury-hotel sector has seen a slowdown in openings in the past few months there are still some very strong new jewels coming onto the scene. In this region I’m very excited about the longawaited official opening of the stunningly designed Palazzo Versace Dubai, with its dazzling rooms and amazing pool and spa (the hotel is currently in its soft-opening phase, so minus particular amenities). Although you’ll sense corporateness from its outer shell, the Four Seasons Hotel Abu Dhabi at Al Maryah
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Newburgh Tea Factory in Sri Lanka’s tea-picking mountains
Island is a masterpiece in the UAE capital, and so much thought has gone into its design and sense of being that it’s a real rarity here. The hotel is a destination in itself at weekends – the food outlets, including the famed Café Milano and Crust, combined with a cool outdoor pool area make it a go-to for couples and families alike. The team are Four Seasons stalwarts, so service is second to none from the outset. Out in Oman, the new Anantara Al Jabal Akhdar offers a unique hilltop experience with pool villas and a fantastic kids’ club, for a staycation with a true difference only three hours from Muscat. The new Shangri La’s Hambantota Resort & Spa in Sri Lanka is perfect for a family getaway (the Premier Ocean Suites are just amazing) and those who wish to try all that Sri Lanka has to offer without having to venture too far off the beaten track. With Flydubai’s new Dubai-toMattala flight, you can be at the resort in a matter of hours. A little further afield is the ever-growing destination Indonesia. The new i
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Four Seasons Hotel Jakarta, which has just opened its doors, has really taken the capital’s hotel scene back to its once very high standard – the concept is ‘residence’ and thus the team are on hand to look after you like never before. Jakarta is also a perfect stopping point on your way to Bali or further to Borneo and beyond. Back to the beach and newly opened The St. Regis Langkawi. St. Regis fans should combine a stay here with a few days at soon-toopen The St. Regis Kuala Lumpur, for a twincentre city-and-resort experience. The private beach areas of the Langkawi property are sublime. It’s not only new openings that get my hotel-geek side excited but also renovations, and none more so than the Ritz Paris. The iconic grand dame is now fully open, with much larger rooms and all the mod cons you could wish for to accompany its top-class location in the heart of Paris. To book a memorable experience, visit your local dnata outlet, call +971 4 316 6666 or log on to dnatatravel.com
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Chef’s Top Tables
October 2016
Alvin Leung’s menu at Bo Innovation will take you on a true culinary odyssey
Chef’s Top Tables: Jereme Leung
Celebrity chef Jereme Leung is the main man at Ufaa, the first truly authentic Chinese restaurant in the Maldives and a culinary gem of Conrad Maldives Rangali Island. We asked him which of the world’s restaurants he holds in highest regard • Xin Rong Ji, Shanghai Order: Slow-braised yellow croakers in rich soup China is a huge country and every region has its own, very particular ingredients. This popular restaurant specialises in the conventional cooking methods of the eastcoast region of Taizhou, with a wide range of seafood from the South China Sea, all treated in this unique style. My menu highlight is the slow-braised yellow croakers in rich soup, which are outstanding because the fish fillet is so soft that it melts in the mouth, while the handmade rice cakes with slow-braised turnip and pheasant tofu are a must-try, too. • RogeR la gRenouille, PaRiS Order: Frogs’ legs (grande version Provençal style – à la Normande) Opened in 1930, Roger La Grenouille has a real old charm; the interior is rustic and cosy and it’s one of my favourite places in Paris. Like the Chinese, the French aren’t afraid to explore profound culinary experiences and they are probably the only other nation in the world who will eat anything that has legs… Roger La Grenouille serves very traditional French food that might not be to everyone’s taste, such as frogs’ legs, snails and rabbit. Its frogs’
legs recipes are unique and include the grande version Provençal style – à la Normande, with apples, but my favourite version is deep fried and wrapped with lots of garlic and parsley, super crispy and with amazing aromas. • TeTSuya’S ReSTauRanT, Sydney Order: The degustation menu, featuring dishes such as duck breast with orange, caramelised witlof and Tasmanian pepperberries Tetsuya offers a great fine-dining experience, trendy atmosphere and excellent service. It’s very refined Japanese food with a French touch. The degustation menu consists of 10 courses: high-quality ingredients, subtly flavoured, with well-balanced dressings. Each dish is very exquisite, and presented beautifully. The warm octopus salad with fennel and shiso oil makes a lasting impression, and the signature dish – confit of Petuna ocean trout with an accompanying salad of celery, witlof, apple and unpasteurised ocean-trout roe – is to die for. • Bo innovaTion, hong Kong Order: Tuna belly (toro) with black truffle, umami oil, vermicelli and rice noodles This triple-Michelin-starred restaurant is a pure discovery of technology, creativity, energy 22
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Chef’s Top Tables
October 2016
and harmony. The dishes are European- and Asian-influenced and combine molecular gastronomy and traditional Chinese cooking – using lots of local ingredients, transformed and then presented in different forms by chef Alvin Leung. His menu will take you on a true culinary odyssey. For example, a creation that alerts the taste buds is the foie gras mui choy – preserved Chinese mustard green, Granny Smith apples and gingerbread.
Chui Huay Lim’s Teochew cold crab
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• Chui huay Lim TeoChew Cuisine, singapore Order: Chilled crab Chui Huay Lim is operated by the famous Jumbo Group, whose name has become synonymous with its chilli crabs. But this particular restaurant is focused on authentic Teochew cuisine. Compared to fine-dining restaurants, it has a slightly more accessible and casual atmosphere and offers various Teochew dishes, with staples including steamed pomfret, chilled crab and braised goose. There are many must-try dishes to be enjoyed here… however, some of them are not on the menu; only those in the know can request them. Now you're in the know, you can do just that.
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World Traveller
October 2016
Spotlight On
Spotlight On
London The UK capital never loses its travel lustre, which means there’s never a bad time to pick out its luxury highlights • Eat and drink Barrafina The tapas-style bar now has three addresses (Frith Street, Adelaide Street and Drury Lane) and each is assured to have a queue – no reservations are allowed, whether you consider yourself a VIP or not. Its popularity is with good reason: this is Big Smoke dining brilliance, not overblown hype. Expect a funky, modern twist on Spanish sharing plates, with unusual regional offerings to the tune of sizzling grills, a roaring oven and excited chatter – mostly about the fare. Sam and Eddie Hart have created something truly special here.
The Ledbury It’s considered one of The World’s 50 Best, and mastermind Brett Graham makes this intimate restaurant one of the city’s mustvisit fine-dining enclaves. In time-honoured tradition, each dish on the scintillating tasting menu has an individually paired glass of grape to make the flavour profile dance. A modern setting in Notting Hill, plus sublime, creative cuisine and plenty of bonhomie. Afternoon tea at The Ritz Every British household has tea and cucumber sandwiches at 3pm… doesn’t it? Savour a charming rendition of this fading tradition at The Ritz, which begins with choosing from 18 types of loose tea. This is pure sophistication: The Palm Court, with its tinkling fountain and birdcage chandeliers, the finest silver and ornate chinaware on the tables, and the soothing melody of a harpist accompanying resident soprano Miranda Heldt.
• SEE and do Get suited on Savile Row This little street in Mayfair has had a sizeable impact on the men’s tailoring universe: considered the authority in bespoke suiting, The Row represents infallible quality. Established favourites like Gieves & Hawkes, Anderson & Sheppard, Huntsman and Hardy Amies have been joined by a new wave of tailors who uphold the same exacting standards, while adding a contemporary twist.
• Stay St. James’s Hotel & Club A boutique hotel with tons of luxury clout, it’s ideally placed for those looking to catch a West End show, or indulge in a spot of shopping on illustrious Bond Street. Remaining inproperty, guests will find a graceful interior (handmade silk wallpapers and handcrafted Murano-glass chandeliers), along with Frenchinspired, Michelin-starred fine dining at Seven Park Place by William Drabble.
Bubbles aboard the London Eye For a view you’ll never forget, see the city from a spectacular vantage aboard this giant Ferris wheel on the South Bank. The luxury element comes by booking one of the 32 capsules for private use: custom-design the space for a memorable occasion, be it chocolate tasting, ‘Dining at 135’ for eight, or creating a magic moment in ‘Cupid’s Capsule’.
Gir Lion Lodge Ditch the gilded bathrooms of regal hotels for a stay with a difference, in the heart of ZSL London Zoo. You’ll spend the night in the cosy confines of a wooden hut in Regent’s Park, next door to a pride of Asiatic lions, and with the sounds of animals in cacophony. The Land of the Lions experience is totally safe, and comes with the ultimate thrill element: the opportunity to roam the zoo after hours.
Sightsee the landmarks Capture quintessential London heritage on camera with an autumnal walk among its landmarks. To mingle with the crowds, hop on and off a tour bus, exploring whichever resplendent building takes your fancy, or go exclusive with the VIP service from London Magical Tours, which will see you and your own personal guide chauffeur-driven around in a Rolls-Royce Phantom or Bentley Continental. 24
• don’t MiSS A blockbuster art show is set to take London by storm – no mean feat in a city renowned for frequent world-leading exhibitions. Picasso Portraits opens at the National Portrait Gallery on 6 October (running until February 2017) and covers all of the painter’s major periods. Some pieces have never before been displayed in the UK; collectors and aficionados, rejoice.
Hyatt®, Park Hyatt® and related marks are trademarks of Hyatt Corporation or its affiliates. ©2016 Hyatt. All rights reser ved
EXPERIENCE TRAITEUR‘S SIGNATURE FRIDAY BRUNCH Tr a i t e ur ' s mul tipl e aw a r d - w i n n i n g F r i d a y B r u n c h p r e s e n t s g u e s t s w i t h t h r e e b r u n ch pac k age s to s e le c t f r o m . C h e f d e C u i s i n e D e n n i s K o l l a n d h i s t e a m o f ch e f s h av e c ur at ed a n o u t s t a n d i n g e x p e r i e n c e t o e n j o y a m o n g s t f r i e n d s a n d f a m i l y. Tr aiteur ' s s t un n i n g a r c h i t e c t u r e a n d t h e a t r e -s t y l e o p e n k i t c h e n o f f e r a sop h i stic ated c ul inar y e x p e r i e n c e t o b e e n j o y e d w i t h l i v e m u s i c a n d m a g n i fic e n t v i e ws o f D ubai Cr e e k . For m o r e inf o r matio n c o n t a c t + 9 7 1 4 6 0 2 1 8 1 4 o r v i s i t d u b a i . p a r k . h y a t t . c o m
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October 2016
Style & Wellness
Style & Wellness What to pack for...
Day of the Dead
Floral offerings are integral to the Mexican celebration of souls passed – should you find yourself in Central America at Dia de los Muertos this 31 October, capture the spirit in your own way with these boho-luxe buys
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1. Cruise 21" suitcase, USD2,155, Globe-Trotter at Net-A-Porter 2. Yetti mirrored sunglasses, USD290, Sunday Somewhere at Net-A-Porter 3. Crystal and organza clip earrings, USD585, Lanvin at Net-A-Porter 4. Gina pewter-plated, Swarovski-crystal and organza necklace, USD935, Lanvin at Net-A-Porter 5. Silk brooch, USD380, Gucci at Net-A-Porter 6. Cotton- and silk-blend brooch, USD580, Gucci at Net-A-Porter 7. Draped crochet-knit wrap, USD950, Missoni at Net-A-Porter 8. Leather wallet, USD295, Dolce & Gabbana at Mr Porter 26
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Style & Wellness
October 2016
Style-Savvy Local Justin Crawford Byron Bay-based Justin is the co-founder of millinery label Fallen Broken Street. Here he shares the secrets of his beautiful coastal hometown
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9. Ghost leather and shearling keychain, USD495, Anya Hindmarch at Net-A-Porter 10. Micki Blossom embroidered canvas ankle boots, USD825, Tabitha Simmons at Net-A-Porter 11. Chantecaille Lip Chic in Wild Poppy, USD36 at Net-A-Porter 12. Leather iPhone 6 Plus case, USD195, Dolce & Gabbana at Net-A-Porter 13. El Primero 36,000 VPH stainless-steel and alligator watch, USD8,800, Zenith at Mr Porter 14. Gold-tone keychain, USD285, Prada at Net-A-Porter 15. M240 camera, USD11,950, Leica at Net-A-Porter 27
love shopping in Byron Bay’s quirky thrift shops and at the garage sales that pop up all through town in people’s front yards on Saturday and Sunday mornings. It’s part of the local culture in Byron and a really fun and social thing to do, with a coffee in hand in the sunshine. That’s where I find most of my unique treasures. The vintage stores are all super fun to hunt through for one-off items, too, and Mr Vintage Australia (mrvintageaustralia.com.au) and Trash Vintage (trashvintage. com.au) are some of the best. Another must-do at the weekend is a trip to the farmers’ market at Mullumbimby, where you’ll find – and get to sample – the region’s best local produce. In fact, Byron Bay and its surrounds have some of the best food in Australia, so it’s hard to end up disappointed no matter where you eat. From the market stalls and fish-andchip shops through to rustic Italian trattorias and fine-dining restaurants, Byron has it all. Some of my favoured places to eat include Treehouse on Belongil (treehouseonbelongil.com) for the fabulous wood-fired pizzas, Three Blue Ducks (threeblueducks. com), which serves up great barbecue food among a host of other fresh fare and – for the best falafals on the planet – Orgasmic Food (Facebook: Orgasmic-FoodByron-Bay). There are so many fun things to do in and around Byron Bay but, for me, surfing is the pick of them. We are really spoiled for waves on the New South Wales North Coast, so if you’re a keen surfer try places like Lennox Head, The Pass and Broken Head for great waves and stunning beaches – all of these have given me seriously memorable surfing moments. For an insider tip, Whites is a really beautiful out-of-the-way beach in Byron Bay that is lesser known by the tourist crowd. fallenbrokenstreet.com
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The Spa You Need
October 2016
The Spa You Need
Tradition And Luxury Entwine
I’m looking for… Our select spa trio for this month sing wellness harmony – through signature local treatments, regionally inspired design notes and a calming dose of class
Arabian opulence Sharq Village & Spa, Doha
Swedish sophistication
NorDic Spa & fitNeSS at graND hotel Stockholm
Thai extravagance
This wellness gem in the Qatari capital comes under The Ritz-Carlton’s purview, yet the spa itself is overseen by experts from Six Senses. It’s colossal – four traditionally styled ‘villages’ are home to 23 stunning treatment rooms, wherein guests can indulge in Arabian-inspired rituals and indulgent soaks in one of the many hammams. Ladies feel at ease here as local customs are respected: there’s a dedicated female entrance and reception area, full-service luxury beauty salon and exercise facilities. The Gulf mood pulses within these white-stone buildings and along their winding alleyways, for an impression of the authentic Middle East. ritzcarlton.com/en/hotels/qatar/sharq-village
A wholesome slice of heaven with every kind of pampering you can dream of. Local emotions are invoked with granite from Grythyttan (an imposing interior detail), Rauk stones from Gotland, and an invigorating contrast between the outdoor chill and indoor warmth throughout. We recommend the tingling Nordic Bathing De Luxe ritual – relax in a toasty pine sauna before taking a polar bearcold pool plunge, with a glass of sparkling bubbles and homemade chocolate to warm the cockles again afterwards. For assured Swedish bliss, opt for a Grand Suite experience, and spend time gazing over the waterfront with views of the glorious Royal Palace. grandhotel.se/en/nordic-spa-fitness
As a resort, Kata Rocks is running other regional boutique hotels aground, with all eyes on its unrivalled accommodation and celebrity-alluring chic. One of its well-known secrets is Infinite, a spa that assures a calmed (detoxed) soul, rejuvenated spirit and tons of me-time; think luxurious his and hers bathtubs, a chromotherapy room for coloured light therapy, a waterbed room with massage bed and more. Tailored spa massages and treatments entwine with authentic local wellness traditions and products (preceded by a cup of fragrant tea), putting you in touch with an archetypal Phuket experience: culture laced with elegance. katarocks.com/phuket-luxury-spa
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iNfiNite luxury Spa at kata rockS, phuket
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October 2016
dnata Offers
WORLD TRAVELLER
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USA
Waldorf astoria orlando 6 nights from USD657 per person Special offer: 15% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Queen Room with return airport transfers Validity: Now ’til 22 Dec 2016 There’s Disney on the doorstep and magic in the air at this elite property, and if that’s not enough, it has a 482-acre nature preserve.
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Spain
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Gran MElia fEniX 3 nights from USD475 per person Special offer: 20% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in a Standard Room with breakfast daily and return private airport transfers Validity: Now ’til 31 Oct 2016
Italy
croWnE plaza roME – st. pEtEr’s 4 nights from USD390 per person Special offer: Stay 3 nights and receive an additional night free Includes: Stay in a Standard Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now ’til 31 Oct 2016
Located on the exclusive Barrio de Salamanca in Madrid, this avant-garde hotel is a worthy inclusion among the Leading Hotels of the World collective.
The Colosseum and the Vatican are within comfortable reach of this hotel, with huge rooms to retreat to after a day of exploring. 30
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Turkey
shanGri-la hotEl, istanbul 3 nights from USD449 per person Special offer: 50% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Atrium View Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now ’til 31 Oct 2016 Personalised services, luxury comforts galore and mighty Bosphorus strait views: a stylish end to an Istanbul day.
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Seychelles
banYan trEE sEYchEllEs 3 nights from USD1,892 per person Special offer: 15% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in an Ocean View Pool Villa with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now ’til 31 Oct 2016 Seeking luxury amid the unspoilt beauty of nature? This coastal hotel is right up your tree, with pretty Creole-style villas next to the Indian Ocean.
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thE st. rEGis Mauritius rEsort 4 nights from USD1,330 per person Special offer: 50% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in a Junior Suite with breakfast and lunch daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now ’til 31 Oct 2016 With low-rise buildings and luxe amenities beside Le Morne Beach, it’s St. Regis pampering in paradise. 31
Thailand
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Singapore
thE kEE rEsort & spa 3 nights from USD141 per person Special offer: Complimentary upgrade to a Deluxe Room Includes: Stay in a Plaza Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now ’til 31 Oct 2016
Grand hYatt sinGaporE 3 nights from USD457 per person Special offer: 20% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in a Grand Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now ’til 29 Dec 2016
Patong Beach is the setting for this trendy, tropical, SinoPortuguese-inspired resort that adjoins a shopping plaza (perfect for retail splurges).
You can feel the heartbeat of upscale Orchard Road shopping district at this one: a five-star hotel in which to imbibe the best of the Lion City.
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dnata’s Fantastic Four Be they east or west, these hotels share a common aspect: extravagance and finesse against a spectacular backdrop
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Switzerland
palacE luzErn 4 nights from USD906 per person Special offer: Stay 3 nights and receive an additional night free Includes: Stay in a City View room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers from Zürich Validity: Now ’til 15 Dec 2016 A lakeside promenade, graceful Swiss mountain views… and an epic hotel to enjoy it all from.
To book, visit a dnata outlet, call +971 4 316 6666 or log on to dnatatravel.com
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Malaysia
Grand hotEl WiEn 4 nights from USD668 per person Special offer: Stay 3 nights and receive an additional night free Includes: Stay in a Superior room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now ’til 27 Dec 2016
shanGri-la’s villinGili rEsort & spa 4 nights from USD1,800 per person Special offer: Complimentary upgrade to half board and return domestic flights Includes: Stay in a Pool Villa with breakfast daily Validity: Now ’til 17 Dec 2016
shEraton iMpErial kuala luMpur hotEl 3 nights from USD200 per person Special offer: 20% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in a Deluxe Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers Validity: Now ’til 31 Dec 2016
This 19th-century city stalwart presents unforgettable moments galore, from jaw-dropping décor to Michelin-star cuisine.
Take a private plane then a cross-ocean boat ride to access this secluded, heavenly island full of sun-kissed adventures.
KL has it all, from hawker stalls on bustling streets to gleaming towers. This is the latter… unrivalled luxury.
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Destinations
Iconic Helsinki
Suomenlinna Any European coastal city worth its salt isn’t without a fortress, and this UNESCO heritage site is Helsinki’s 18th-century sea-fleet home. Built over six islands, it’s a picturesque patch on which to spend the day with friends, and is a short boat ride to reach – better yet, with the last ferry departing at 2am, you can stay late. 34
October 2016
World Traveller
Destinations
Iconic Helsinki
October 2016
Iconic Helsinki Finland’s enigmatic and characterful capital has a rich aesthetic tradition, and ranks high on many a ‘cool city’ list. Here are a few of the landmark sights you’ll spy on a laid-back Helsinki sojourn
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World Traveller
Destinations
Iconic Helsinki
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October 2016
World Traveller
Destinations
Iconic Helsinki
October 2016
Sibelius Monument A handsome statue dedicated to the legendary Finnish composer, it comprises 600 organ pipes of welded steel, with a bust of Jean himself on one side. Standing 8.5m high, this behemoth weighs in at 6.5 tonnes; sit opposite and admire it while pouring Karajan’s version of Sibelius’ Symphony No 5 through your headphones, for added appreciation.
Senate Square Oozing with neoclassical design by Carl Ludvig Engel, the square is dominated by four buildings: Helsinki Cathedral (above), the Government Palace, the main building of the University of Helsinki and the National Library of Finland. A statue of Emperor Alexander II stands watch over this epicentre of Helsinki history. Hotel Kämp Look up the word ‘grandeur’ in the dictionary, and you might just find an accompanying image of this historic hotel, which dates back to 1887. In the late 19th century, Kämp was the place to be for the new class of modern businessmen and politicians; still highly regarded, it’s where you can live like royalty when in the city, and is an address that carries itself with utmost distinction.
Fincredible
There’s been an increased interest from the GCC in Nordic tourism, and Qatar’s five-star flag carrier has been listening. From 10 October the airline launches a daily return flight from Doha’s Hamad International Airport to Helsinki, where onboard an Airbus A320 guests can enjoy the World’s Best Business Class – according to Skytrax, no less. With existing flights to Copenhagen, Oslo and Stockholm, Helsinki enhances the airline’s route map of Nordic destinations; yet more opportunity for ‘Going Places Together’. qatarairways.com
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Kiasma If contemporary art is about feeling, then aficionados and newcomers alike will be magnetised to this world-class venue, which whitewashes a static, passive liaison with art and instead paints an immersive experience full of colour. All manner of exhibitions, collections and performances find their way to the museum’s theatre and, the calendar full of happenings aside, its architecture is a talking point in itself – so much so, they’ve created a pocket audio guide that details the inspiration for the attention-grabbing design. Plus, if your hunger goes beyond art, the café serves up a treat for the taste buds. A place for all the senses.
World Traveller
Destinations South Africa
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October 2016
Destinations
World Traveller
October 2016
South Africa
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Not all South African safari parks were created equal. Veteran player Chris Haslam picks 10 of the best
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World Traveller
Destinations South Africa
October 2016
It’s National Geographic uncut, survival of the fittest and Circle Of Life all rolled into one; South Africa’s endless expanse of scrub and grassland is where the rhythmic pulse of nature conducts its dance. Over 40 national parks and reserves provide an untamed sanctuary for beasts of all shapes and sizes to roam free, and wideeyed travellers the opportunity to witness nature in all its spotted, striped, maned and trunked glory. These are the reserves to track down when venturing into the wild
Best for walking: AfricA on foot The classic savannah of the Klaserie Private Nature Reserve covers an area roughly half the size of Sharjah: wide grasslands dotted with acacia and interspersed with woodlands of marula, wild teak and scented thorn. Here you’ll find lions, leopards, giraffes, buffaloes, white rhinos and elephants, but rather than watching from a 4WD, you’ll be right among the animals on foot. Your first walking safari is a transformative experience: you listen carefully to the safety briefing from your guide, you swallow nervously as he chambers a round in his rifle, and you set off, prickly with anticipation. Under professional guidance, walking in the bush is safe – lions aren’t interested, other animals maintain a safe distance and the only real risk is stumbling across an elephant, buffalo or rhino. But you’re in safe hands with walking-safari specialist Africa on Foot. It has its own tiny, authentic camp, accommodation is in five traditional thatched rondavels, or a treehouse if you prefer to sleep off the ground, and walks can be combined with traditional game drives. But after seeing Africa from the ground, you won’t want to get back into a vehicle. Best for Cape Town: SAnbonA Wildlife reServe Not all the game parks around Cape Town are good. Sanbona Wildlife Reserve, near Montagu, three hours east, is different. An hour off the R62 scenic route and in the west of the Little Karoo, it covers more than 520 sq km of semiarid desert, sprouting bizarre succulents and overlooked by the awesome Warmwaterberg Mountains. But never mind the stark beauty of the landscape, what about the wildlife? It’s all here – reintroduced (much of Sabona used to be
farmland) but free-roaming. As well as lions – including the white variety – you’ll see leopards, buffaloes, elephants and rhinoceroses, plus gemsbok, springbok and eland antelopes, as well as black wildebeests and zebras. You may also see the rare riverine rabbit, which lives only in the Little Karoo and is the 10th most endangered mammal on Earth. The guiding is superb: passionate, enthusiastic and well informed. Come for three nights if you can, staying at Gondwana Safari Lodge if you’ve got kids (it’s a thatched homestead with a play area, pool and spa) or at the luxury Dwyka Tented Lodge in the desert.
Best for whales: GrootboS PrivAte nAture reServe South Africa isn’t just about the beasts of the field: the waters off the country’s shores are home to some of the world’s most thrilling ocean wildlife, the so-called Marine Big Five of whales, sharks, dolphins, seals and penguins. You’ll see them all at Grootbos, a luxury hotel with impeccable eco credentials, set in the Fynbos shrublands above Walker Bay. Every year from June to December, hundreds of southern right whales arrive to mate, often passing so close to the shore that you can photograph them from the rocks. Otherwise, join the resort’s boat to sail among them, or climb aboard the Cessna for a bird’seye view. Other activities include shark-spotting, horse riding and botanical coastal tours, but leave time for gazing at the ocean from your terrace. There are 11 suites in the Garden Lodge and 16 in the Forest Lodge: the latter are the most luxurious and best suited for couples. The dining is sublime, the wines local, and chef Benjamin Conradie is a stickler for the organic, picking much of his produce from the resort’s garden. 40
World Traveller
Destinations South Africa
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October 2016
World Traveller
Destinations South Africa
October 2016
Londolozi epitomises South Africa’s skill for combining outstanding natural beauty with outrageous selfindulgence. It’s designed to provide constant delight
Opening pages: A lone giraffe at dusk. Previous page: Cheetah-spotting at Kwandwe Private Game Reserve. This page, from far left: Jembisa Bush Home; a picturesque pit stop at Kwandwe
Best for families: JembiSA buSH Home Everyone makes mistakes. Jembisa’s was to host the cast of Made In Chelsea, but we won’t hold it against them, because dealing with spoiled, demanding, tantrum-prone children is their speciality. This is the perfect place to bring your offspring for a soft introduction to the bush. Your base is a wonderful thatched lodge, bursting with Africana in the Waterberg Mountains, three hours north of Johannesburg. Malaria-free, the lodge has magnificent views down the Palala River and sits on its own pocket-sized game reserve. There are no lions or elephants, but you will see rhinos, leopards, giraffes, zebras, serval cats, zebras, hippos, crocodiles and enough antelopes to make your head spin. Kids are king here, with activities ranging from ‘little five’ bug safaris for toddlers to overnight bush hikes for teens, a two-day junior tracker course, river-rapid swimming (terrific fun) and nights out under the stars. Best for malaria-free big game: KWAndWe PrivAte GAme reServe Out of a handful of malaria-free reserves, Kwandwe is the best for the big sightings. It’s a relatively small private reserve in the rolling hills around the Great Fish River valley. Farmland until 2001, Kwandwe was turned into a private game reserve by American philanthropist Carl DeSantis, who pursued a dream to return a small part of the Eastern Cape to its former natural glory. And boy, did he
succeed: more than 7,000 large mammals were shipped in to fill the reserve, their numbers bolstered by other species that simply wandered in. Prey species attracted predators, and now Kwandwe is home to black and white rhinos, buffaloes, elephants, hippos, giraffes, lions, leopards and cheetahs, plus the odd vagrant pack of wild dogs. Humanity, on the other hand, is hard to encounter: with just four lodges and a total of 22 rooms, you can sometimes drive all day without seeing another vehicle. Stay at Ecca Lodge, a sleek and stylish 21st-century property with six luxurious suites built from stone and timber.
Best for predators: timbAvAti PrivAte nAture reServe In the mid 1990s, the fences between the Kruger National Park and the Timbavati Private Nature Reserve came down, allowing vast herds of buffaloes and other prey species to roam further west in search of grazing. For the lions and leopards of Timbavati, it was as though home had been turned into YO! Sushi: the meat went past and you picked what you wanted. Consequently, predator numbers rose, turning this reserve into one of the best spots in South Africa to see the big cats, especially lions. The prides include the Machaton, Shobele, Giraffe and 42
World Traveller
Destinations South Africa
October 2016
This page, clockwise from top left: Kwandwe’s Ecca Lodge; elephants at Tanda Tula; a lion encounter at Londolozi. Next pages: Zebras at Jembisa
with leopards and gourmet bush breakfasts to top-class fishing on the Sand River, fine dining and terrific evening entertainment. You’ll be staying in a Granite Suite: one of three thatched lodges that seemingly emerge from the rocks beside the river, with open-air baths and infinity pools fortunately off limits to crocodiles.
Xakubasa – and the scheming, politicking, violent social lives of these Borgia-like kings of the jungle is fascinating to see. And the Timbavati is the original home of white lions: ghostly beasts blanched by a leucistic gene. There are only seven in the entire reserve and sightings are rare, but you never know. Stay at Tanda Tula, which has 12 tents overlooking the Nhlaralumi riverbed (a thoroughfare for elephants), a swimming pool and a reputation for boozy communal dinners. The guiding, especially by Civilised Mathebula, is exemplary.
Best for luxury: londolozi They have a way of doing things at South Africa’s most luxurious safari lodge that makes you feel as though you’re a guest at a private house party rather than a paying client. Located in the Sabi Sand private game reserve, on the edge of the Greater Kruger, the camp epitomises South Africa’s skill for combining outstanding natural beauty with outrageous self-indulgence (and perhaps the best-stocked wine cellar anywhere in the bush). The lodge is designed to provide constant delight, from close-up encounters 43
Best for meerkats: tSWAlu KAlAHAri You need to get up early to catch meerkats at work, along with the wily drongo birds, which use conman techniques to rob them of their breakfast. The best place in the entire African continent to see them is Tswalu, the Oppenheimerowned luxury camp on South Africa’s largest private game reserve, located in the centre of the Northern Cape province. At many camps specialising in meerkat encounters, the animals have become so habituated to tourists that they often climb on visitors’ shoulders. But Tswalu rotates clients between two colonies, thus never allowing any meerkats to become too accustomed to humans. You’ll spend a good 90 minutes watching them each morning before they dash off to spend the day foraging. Thereafter, you’ll track rhinos, huge-maned Kalahari lions, hyenas, cheetahs and about 240 species of birds. The accommodation, built to suit the tastes of a diamond dynasty, is as luxurious as you would expect: huge, thatched suites with open fires and private decks overlooking a waterhole. Best for budget: KruGer nAtionAl PArK Self-drive Driving yourself around among the lions might sound a bit daunting, but the roads here are superb so you don’t need a 4WD. Just remember to drive slowly (the 50km/h limit is too fast), only get out of the car at designated rest
World Traveller
Destinations South Africa
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October 2016
World Traveller
Destinations South Africa
October 2016
Follow the Timbavati River to its confluence with the Olifants. Here you’ll see it all: lions sleeping off their buffalo supper, wild dogs patrolling like special forces
stops, and if a male elephant in musth (ready to mate) flattens its ears ahead of you – reverse. Fast. South Africa’s national parks administration (SANParks) has a remit to make the nation’s flora, fauna and scenery accessible to all, regardless of wealth, and this is useful if you’re on a budget. All 19 parks offer superb value, but if it’s your first trip go straight to the daddy: the Kruger National Park, five hours northeast of Johannesburg. Entry costs USD20 (Dhs73) per day, and accommodation in the 22 government-run rest camps, most of which have shops and cheap restaurants and lodges, starts at USD65 (Dhs239) per room per night. The only other thing you really need to know is where to go. The southeast of the park, watered by the Sabie and Crocodile Rivers, has the highest concentration of game and, consequently, tourists, so you can expect traffic jams and frustration at peak periods. The better bet is to head north to the central grasslands, following the Timbavati River through the sweetveld to its confluence with the Olifants River. Here you’ll see it all: lions sleeping off their buffalo supper, wild dogs patrolling like special forces, many elephants (which can be a hazard on roads), zebras, giraffes and so on. The secret is to combine your self-drive with some government-subsidised guiding. Game drives, bush walks and night drives are available at the 11 main lodges, priced from USD15 (Dhs55) per person.
Best for elephants: Addo elePHAnt nAtionAl PArK Stretching south from the semi-desert of the Karoo, over the wild Zuurberg Mountains and down to the coast, Addo is South Africa’s third-biggest national park and home to species including lions, leopards, buffaloes, black and white rhinos, plus the southern right whale and great white shark off the Algoa Bay coast. But elephants are the main attraction: more than 600 roam the park as if they own the place, breaking down trees, excavating vast pits and hanging out at the Hapoor Dam, a favourite pachyderm watering hole. Their copious waste supports huge numbers of flightless dung beetles, a fascinating insect that has right of way on the roads here. As in the Kruger, the best way to experience Addo is to mix self-driving with guided activities. Stay at Camp Figtree, an atmospheric property high in the Zuurberg. There are seven suites: pick No 6 or No 7 for the magnificent views and verandahs. Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or log on to dnatatravel.com 45
Destinations
World Traveller
October 2016
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Made In
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ometimes, small is everything. In Taipei’s exceptional National Palace Museum, I chanced on a case containing a carved olive kernel. It was an unlikely exhibit, the kind that had people tilting their heads one way, then the other, before peering in closer. Shaped by the evidently steady hands of a master craftsman more than 250 years ago, it portrays a miniature boat, complete with exquisite awning, passengers and rigging. For a tiny piece of fruit matter it is a near-miraculous piece of art. The sculpture was created for the Chinese emperor of the day and, like so much in the museum, it is intricate and unfathomable enough to bring browsing tour groups to a juddering halt. And there was me thinking Taiwan was all about modern technology. Comprising thousands of artworks collected by generations of emperors in Beijing, the pieces in the museum are well travelled. There are Ming vases, millennia-old bronzes and ivory wrist rests. It was Chiang Kai-shek – the nationalist leader and Mao’s great foe during the Chinese Civil War – who had the best of them boxed up and packed off from 46
Ben Lerwill unearths the treasures that abound in the last outpost of Old China
World Traveller
Destinations Taiwan
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World Traveller
Destinations Taiwan
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October 2016
World Traveller
Destinations Taiwan
Previous page: Taroko National Park. Opposite: Taipei 101. This page, from top: Taipei’s abandoned Sanzhi UFO village; traditional xiaochi; Taiwan night market
October 2016
the Forbidden City, in the hope of keeping them from the clutches of the communists. The treasures were spirited first to Shanghai, then Sichuan, before crossing to Taiwan with Chiang and more than a million of his followers in 1949. And there they remain, to the chagrin of China but much to the benefit of those visiting Taipei. 2014 marked the 65th anniversary of Mao’s establishment of the People’s Republic of China and, by consequence, the Kuomintang’s retreat from the mainland to Taiwan. Only around 220 miles of water separate the two lands, although the differences between their respective cultures remain considerable. Visitor preconceptions of Taiwan tend to rest on its reputation for manufacturing, but you don’t need to be there long to realise the destination remains defined by Chiang’s arrival, a time when the island was figuratively ripped from the mainland and declared the last outpost of the Republic of China. Beijing still views the island state as part of its domain; Taiwan sees itself as autonomous. Only a handful of nations officially recognise
Taiwan might be small, but it’s big on character it as a country in its own right, although the destination remains both self-governed and self-confident, with an economy to match. The end result is that tradition and technology vie for top billing, a pleasing tussle for visitors. Although a highly developed nation, Taiwan offers a picture of what China might have been like if it hadn’t become communist, according to Chris Moore, a Taiwan specialist. Traditional culture is less diluted than on the Chinese mainland. “It’s got an off-the-radar quality that appeals to people who have seen a fair bit of the region and are curious about what Taiwan holds,” he says. What Taiwan holds – on the surface, at least – started to become evident from the top of Taipei 101, where I stood, nose to nose with a small cloud, on my first morning in the capital. Named for the number of floors it has, the skyscraper was the tallest structure on the 49
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planet until 2009, when Burj Khalifa relegated it to second place. More than twice the size of Taipei’s next highest building, 101 provides an eyrie over the metropolis. On the rim of the urban basin, meanwhile, belts of humped woodland hinted at what the rest of the island held in store. From 1,450ft up, Taipei looks efficient and grid-clustered, if enormous, an overall impression that continues down at ground level. The traffic is fairly jam-free, the pavements are swept and the neon is heavy. Before Chiang and the nationalists arrived, Taiwan spent half a century under Japanese occupation, and an eye for design seems to have endured as a legacy of this period. So while the chanting and Buddhism-meetsTaoism of Mengjia Longshan Temple in the afternoon was pure China, my evening visit to Shilin Night Market – full of sharp energy, hipster stalls and kitsch gadgetry – could have been straight from a Tokyo manga comic. Everything I’d read declares the National Palace Museum as the city’s sightseeing highlight – and with good reason – but there is verve elsewhere in Taipei, too. It would be a hard sell as a destination in its own right, but as somewhere to top and tail a week exploring a neighbouring country it holds great appeal – particularly at sundown, when its crowded dumpling restaurants and light-festooned sidestreets seem to come into their own. I’d read that there’s no guaranteed month for perfect weather – an accurate warning, as it turned out. I travelled a short way south from Taipei to Taroko Gorge and heavy rain came, too: rainfall surged down the 2,640fthigh marble cliffs that tower over the banks of the Liwu River, which itself was frothing and wild from the downpour. The gorge is widely regarded as one of East Asia’s top natural attractions and even with visibility reduced by the deluge it was easy to comprehend the hype. Next morning dawned bright to reveal a wraparound panorama of silvery rock faces, clifftop waterfalls and hanging forests. Setting off along the hiking paths that cling to the walls of the canyon was akin to stepping inside an antique Chinese painting: a barely real world of swallows, cypresses and sky-high peaks. The gorge and its surrounding national park were for centuries inhabited only by the Truku – an indigenous group of hunters and
Destinations Taiwan
weavers whose idyll was interrupted when the Japanese painstakingly constructed a set of footpaths – today’s hiking trails – along the gorge’s 20km length, which allowed occupying forces ultimately to subjugate the tribe. Mandarin is Taiwan’s chief language, but indigenous dialects thrive. The Truku, many of whom live in the gorge region, are one of 14 indigenous tribes that still exist in Taiwan. Together these groups have inhabited the island for millennia, and while they comprise only 2% of the overall population, their cultural traditions remain intact. The east and west of Taiwan are very different. While much of the west holds industrial zones and urban settlements, the east is far quieter. The last portion of my trip was spent in the East Rift Valley, a deep green landscape sliced in two by the Tropic of Cancer, marked by rice paddies and a continuous wall of enormous broken ridges. It is countryside crying out to be explored via a comprehensive network of cycle trails. I spent hours circling the farming town of Guanshan on a hired bike, disturbing little other than flocks of egrets and the occasional water buffalo. The east is also prime territory for indulging in one of Taiwan’s other key attractions – its hot springs. The result of being located on a tectonic join, the springs come in various colours, temperatures and mineral make-ups, and their popularity among visitors is another legacy of the Japanese. I visited the Ruisui springs, which were warm enough to boil me into an afternoon-long submission. I wallowed until the stars came out. A week was never going to be enough to do the country justice. After a final day spent sampling the xiaochi (‘little eats’) from the food carts in the laid-back southern city of Taitung, it was back to Taipei for departure. But my introduction to the island gave a good insight into why this culturally alluring destination is so hard to pigeonhole. It has a host of competing flavours – where else would you find bullet trains, betel nut-chewing aboriginal groups and brazen anti-Chinese posters declaring “Falun Gong is Good”? Like the hand-sculpted olive kernel in its showpiece museum, Taiwan might be small, but it’s big on character. Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or log on to dnatatravel.com 50
October 2016
Opposite, from top: Koji Pottery Museum in Chiayi City; Lotus Pond in Kaohsiung City
At sundown, its crowded dumpling restaurants and light-festooned sidestreets come into their own
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Destinations Taiwan
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World Traveller
Destinations Warsaw
October 2016
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Destinations Warsaw
Hip Off The Old Bloc You've got to hand it to the Polish capital. With gritty galleries, kitsch-cool park life and some very retro-sexy architecture, Warsaw is warming up, says Dana Facaros
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Destinations Warsaw
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he dewy glasses of Zywiec were slipping down a treat as we gazed over Zamkowy Square. Its Royal Castle was vermilion in the last embers of the day. A religious procession marched by, all beaming apple-cheeked nuns and banners. A horse-drawn carriage deposited newlyweds, the bride’s veil swirling like whipped cream as they posed on the parapet above the Vistula River. Teenagers chatted on steps beneath a statue of King Zygmunt III, the 16thcentury monarch who made Warsaw the Polish capital (after Kraków). A long-planned weekend getaway had brought us to Warsaw. And so far, the Polish capital was proving to be perfection. Neither my husband, Michael, or I had set foot in Poland before, but Michael’s grandparents had migrated from Warsaw in 1910, across the Atlantic to Cleveland, Ohio. They never mastered more than a few words in English, listening to polkas on the radio and cooking cabbage, but Michael’s own parents worked hard to dissolve into the American melting pot, so Michael grew up fascinated by his ancestors. Poland had just been a place in his head, though, until I booked this trip for his birthday. So far, he couldn’t keep the smile off his face. “Our high school held car washes to raise money to rebuild it,” he said suddenly. I followed his gaze. “You mean 54
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the Royal Castle?” “Yup. It looks like they did a good job.” It certainly did. Under its pretty green domes, it could have always been there. Yet as late as 1970, the spot it now occupies was a hole in the ground – one of the city’s biggest unhealed wounds, after Hitler ordered his army to raze Warsaw in WWII. And that deliberate destruction of one of old Europe’s loveliest cities is what makes visiting Warsaw such a unique, moving experience: it’s the Phoenix City and a show of the human spirit at its most resilient. We were staying in the Old Town that was meticulously rebuilt between 1947 and 1953. We feared this tourist vortex might have a whiff of Disneyland, but no. Perhaps because the renovation wasn’t for visitors – it was a labour of love financed by donations from across Poland. Even the windows of our apartment, finished with loving craftsmanship, were works only residents would ever see: each little pane opened individually. The cobbled Market Place, lined with pastel burgher houses, was full of candlelit tables on our first summer’s evening – all gone next morning when we ventured out. A busty statue of the Syrenka, Warsaw’s warrior mermaid, held pride of place with shield and sword. Below, playing an old tune, a white-bearded accordionist sat, cap over his creased face. It was like a time warp – only his wheelie bag anchored him in the present. “Why would Warsaw have a mermaid to defend it?” I asked in the tourist office, where we’d gone to get a map. “The Syrenka was swimming upriver and was captured by a wicked merchant,” said the harried-looking woman in charge. “A fisherman rescued her, so she promised to defend Warsaw when it was attacked.” For a moment everyone in the room fell silent, and I imagine we were all thinking the same thing: perhaps it was time the Syrenka was sacked. Clearly feeling at home here, Michael was so clued-up he barely glanced at the map as we wandered. Not even the most casual visitor could miss the reminders of its heroic past. On the Old Town’s edge we found Krasiński Square, site of the Warsaw Uprising Monument, its scenes frozen in bronze and stone: insurgents emerging, guns blazing, from a ruin; a fighter slipping down a manhole. Among the best-known stories is the one of how, right under Nazi noses, those insurgents got around town via sewers, and escaped the final Old Town siege. Across the street was one of the two manholes used. Covered with flowers, candles and little Polish flags, it was a scene we would see on plaques around the city. It may have happened more than 70 years ago, but nobody forgets. It was a radiant blue morning, perfect for walking. We headed to the new part of town along elegant Krakowskie Przedmieście, the Regent Street of Warsaw. Amid hotels, boutiques and restaurants were surviving walls and columns; Michael pointed out grey patches, like cement sticking plasters, covering bullet holes. At the far end, the atmosphere changed abruptly. Although a few prewar buildings looked restored – notably on Próżna Street, in what had been the initial vortex of horror and courage, the Warsaw Ghetto – downtown Warsaw clearly never got the TLC lavished upon the Old Town. Traffic swarmed along broad streets lined with billboards for techy marvels, communist buildings and glassy capitalist skyscrapers. Suited men and women stalked the pavements. Cops confabbed on a traffic island. Trams disgorged travellers with wheelie suitcases, rumbling to the railway station under a skyline alive with boomtown sass. For all its reconstructions, Warsaw was no city living off the past, like Kraków, say, or Florence. Energy and new money were palpable. But in the midst of it, one slab of history would not be denied. You couldn’t avoid it: a massive wedding cake dominated downtown’s Parade Square – the Palace of Culture and Science. The ‘non-returnable gift from
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Stalin’, it was almost a copy of the 1930s Terminal Tower in Cleveland, where Michael’s postman father had delivered the mail for decades, itself inspired by the turn-of-thecentury Municipal Building in New York that Stalin knew from photos. He admired it so much that, after the war, he ordered seven similar edifices for Moscow, and one as a ‘present’ for Warsaw in 1955, surrounding it with statues representing socialist virtues. My favourite was a heroic worker holding a tablet like Moses, only inscribed with the names of Marx, Engels and Lenin. “Although our parents hated it, a lot of people now think it’s cool, like something out of Gotham City,” said Anna, a bright thirtysomething we shared a table with in Bar Mleczny Familijny, a few blocks from the Palace of Culture and Science. It was of the same era: a no-frills, governmentsubsidised milk bar where the proletariat could dine out healthily (‘milk’ meant ‘no booze’). The food – cheese-
Destinations Warsaw
Opening page: The Norman Foster-designed Metropolitan building in Pilsudski Square. Opposite: St Martin’s Church. This page: Market Place in the heart of Old Town
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filled pierogi, breaded chops, stuffed cabbage – was decent, filling and ridiculously cheap. Like many young Poles, Anna spoke excellent English. “Maybe 20 years ago everyone wanted to forget the communist era, but no more,” she explained. “Going to milk bars is part of the experience. You know they fire the staff if they smile?” She laughed, glancing at the matronly woman at the counter, who scowled on cue. A steer from Anna sent us that afternoon to Praga, a neighbourhood over the Vistula and the last surviving area of pre-communist, prewar Warsaw. “During the uprising, the Red Army just sat there, over the river,” Michael told me, as we crossed the bridge, “waiting for the Germans to destroy all resistance, rather than help the insurgents liberate the city.” With its prewar distilleries, factories and bullet-scarred apartment buildings, Praga was dilapidated but funky:
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Destinations Warsaw
October 2016
Warsaw’s emerging hipster central, all galleries, bars and clubs. Graffiti and posters for art exhibits brightened walls; banners painted with Polish protests flapped at windows. A dreadlocked busker with a cat on a lead wailed on his sax. We ducked into a private museum of Cold War neon, and sipped drinks in a bar filled with fairy lights, served by a girl with safety-pin earrings who tried to tempt us back later with boasts of the latest in local electronic music. But there was a full moon that night and our apartment owner had named Karmnik as one of the best restaurants near us in the Old Town. Stone pigeons over the door recalled a poor woman who had sheltered here in the postwar ruins, feeding birds from her meagre rations. Meagre is the last word you’d use now: our cocktails slipped down as melodic Polish chat drifted, prior to żurek, the national sour rye soup, and roast duck. “Beats anything my relatives ever made,” said Michael, ready to move to Warsaw there and then. His beam grew as we stepped into the street: people were passing with picnics and blankets. We followed them to a packed park on the banks of the Vistula, where moonlit jets of water rose from fountains, vendors peddling LED gizmos that ricocheted high into the night. The show began, and 3D figures appeared in a towering wall of water, Chopin and a sword-waving Syrenka among them. Okay, it was corny,
With its factories and bullet-scarred apartment buildings, Praga was dilapidated but funky: Warsaw’s emerging hipster central
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but it was delightful, too, another flash of the spirit that has always saved Warsaw. Michael had kept the most poignant reminder for the next day, our last. So after coffee in warm sunshine, we ambled to the Warsaw Uprising Museum, opened in 2004 in a sidestreet, behind the red-brick walls of a former power station – nothing much indicated what lay within. Free from Soviet propaganda, here was Warsaw’s way of finally being able to tell its own version of how, against all odds, the Polish underground Home Army sought (on its own) to liberate Warsaw in August 1944. Newsreels produced by the underground showed everyone mucking in to defeat the Germans – even children were drafted in to run the postal service. Then came the gut-wrenching The City Of Ruins film of the aftermath of Hitler’s revenge. How a few hundred souls managed to survive defied belief. We emerged, blinking, and Michael looked drained. I pointed to Lazienki Park on the map, which proved the very antidote. Peacocks strutted, babkas pushed prams and swan boats puttered on the lake, past an Italianate palace. It, too, told a story: the Germans had drilled holes in it for charges, but didn’t have time to blow it up. No matter where you travel, humanity always seems the same – and at its sweetest – on a Sunday in the park. Here, members of the Vistula River Brass Band were playing
Destinations Warsaw
October 2016
Dixieland tunes in the lakeside amphitheatre. Couples danced in the aisles. The golden light seemed to cast a spell, working magic on our final port of call: the Fotoplastikon. One of the last stereoscopic picture shows, or ‘KaiserPanoramas’, left in the world, it lurked in a courtyard near the Palace of Culture and Science, which may be why the Nazis missed it, although most were junked when cinemas grew popular. This one, from 1905, has survived. The smell of old photographic equipment filled the tiny office, where a grave young man sent us into a dim room behind a curtain. We were alone with the Fotoplastikon, a black drum that rotated creakingly with a ka-junk-kajunk, to a scratchy recording of Polish songs from the turn of the last century. Through the lenses we saw a sunny day in Lazienki Park: gondoliers rowing couples in boats; sailorsuited children chasing hoops; cigar-smoking gentlemen with ladies under lacy parasols. For 110 years – through the darkest days of the 20th century – the Fotoplastikon had helped to keep Varsovian spirits up, reminding them how things once were. It was wistful, magical – and moving. “The shows change every three weeks,” the grave young man told us as we left. “Then we’ll just have to come back,” Michael said. “As soon as we can.” Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or log on to dnatatravel.com 57
Clockwise from far left: Krakowskie Przedmiescie; POLIN Museum of the History of Polish Jews; the Warsaw Uprising Monument; Market Place; take a tram to the iconic Palace of Culture and Science
World Traveller
Destinations Iceland
October 2016
World Traveller
Destinations Iceland
Out Of This World An exhilarating encounter with the otherworldly in extraordinary Iceland
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Destinations Iceland
October 2016
Lit by a blazing orange sunset, the half-frozen waterfall was spectacular
“B
jörk, she was a wild one,” says Sigi as he eases the Mitsubishi 4x4 along an icy road. “When she was 12 and I was nine, she used to make me ring all the neighbours’ doorbells, and when they came out to shout at us, she’d run off. She was pretty badly behaved.” Iceland has a population totalling a little over 300,000, so it’s hardly surprising that people here know the president personally, were on basketball teams with the strongman who plays The Mountain in Game Of Thrones, and have played knock down ginger with the aforementioned pixie-like singer. The anomaly, though, is that the country is gigantic. But it doesn’t take long to reach the exciting bits: everywhere you turn there are volcanoes and hot springs, and an hour’s drive from the airport you can find waterfalls cascading over lava cliffs. Navigating your way around is best done with inside knowledge; reindeer are known to hold up traffic on the roads and the names of towns can run to 25 letters long – most of them consonants. Nonetheless, Iceland is becoming more and more popular with tourists. Visitor numbers have doubled since 2010 (and over Valentine’s weekend, when we went, flights and hotels were booked up). I think what’s tempting those to come is the weird otherness of the place – and yet there’s also a cosy familiarity. Yes, you can dine on fermented shark meat, puffin burgers and minke whale, and more people are said to believe in trolls and fairies than in any organised religion; but equally, everyone we met spoke excellent English, they’re obsessed with horses, and do a very nice line in woolly jumpers. Anyone who wants to dip a toe in these otherworldly waters would be well advised to take advantage of Icelandair’s offer of a free ‘buddy’ to show you the sights. The airline does stopovers in Reykjavík on its transatlantic flights and can lend you one of its staff for a day’s sightseeing or exploring. They’ll provide the car and all you need do is pay for your own food and activities. We (my husband and our children – aged eight and nine – and I) were paired with Inga, who works in the Icelandair sales office and volunteered to show us around. She brought along her boyfriend Sigi, a former traffic cop, now a businessman. We all piled into a seven-seater car, loaded with all-weather
gear – the wind cuts straight through the thickest clothing here – and set off. We left Reykjavík and drove southeast along Route 1, which circles the whole island. We were heading for a glacier, called Langjökull, to go snowmobiling, but stopped on the way at Fákasel to make the acquaintance of some Icelandic horses. Technically ponies, they are called horses for fear of offending their dignity. They originated on the Mongolian steppe, are bred to trot up and down hills and cliffs, and have a special fifth gait between a trot and a canter during which their legs whirr so fast the rider is, in theory, carried along at a tremendous rate with minimum jolting. The stable we visited has 64 of these beasts. We stroked a few velvety noses and had a coffee and a muffin in the smart new restaurant. About an hour and a half later, Sigi stopped at a car park and we were loaded into a mountain truck by Mountaineers of Iceland to bounce up onto the glacier. Riding a snowmobile is simple enough, except you have to lean into a turn – yanking on the handlebars will just tip 800lb of heavy machinery onto its side, and though the glacier appears softly snowy, it’s actually just a massive block of ice with a dusting of snow on top: it would be a hard landing. The surface is like a frozen sea – there are wavelets and swells and it makes for an exhilarating, jolty ride with children clinging on behind. It is astonishingly beautiful up there, and not too cold, as the handlebars are heated and you’re provided with protective kit and helmets. We had 10 minutes or so in the middle of nowhere to make snow angels, slither about and admire the view, and then headed back to the car park, which happens to be up a set of wooden steps from one of Iceland’s most famous attractions: the Gullfoss, or Golden Falls. Lit by a blazing orange sunset, the halffrozen waterfall was spectacular. Our next stop was Vík, a village of 250 souls, where we were staying the night. We stopped on the way to look at a geyser, Strokkur, which is surrounded by bubbling, boiling pools, and which spouts out gigantic plumes of water and steam every two to five minutes (and the longer it makes you wait, the bigger the gush). Hotel Edda, in Vík, was a simple affair, as are all hotels I’ve stayed at in Iceland. They don’t seem to run to fabulous products or 60
lush enveloping towels here. And there must be some wintry imperative as to why double duvets don’t exist. Maybe in such a cold place, you want to guarantee you’ll always be able to wrap yourself in your own eiderdown. But it was clean and warm, and Berg Restaurant at the adjoining Icelandair Hotel Vík did very good scallops and steaks with unusual sauces (white chocolate and liquorice, anyone?). The following day, in clear sunny weather, we explored the ‘secret lagoon’ of Jökulsárlón – which turned out to be not very secret: there are huge numbers of Chinese tourists who have just discovered Iceland. It is formed from melt from Vatna, the country’s biggest glacier, and boasts turquoise icebergs and seals, which sprawled fatly on the ice floe or bobbed in the water watching us watching them. Then we headed off with Oskar Arason, who runs Iceguide, to a crystal cave, a naturally formed ice cave in an outflung spur of the glacier. You have to wear a helmet and spikes on your shoes for this one, and crawling into the inner chamber on your hands and knees is not for the rheumatic or claustrophobic. But the light inside, filtered through 10m of prehistoric ice above our heads, was an extraordinary turquoise. The children slithered and slid, crawled through tunnels, threw snowballs, and loved every second. They adored the slushy ride to the cave in an off-road car with tyres as big as tractor wheels. What we saw on our intense, exciting 48hour trip, with Sigi and Inga to guide us, was only a tiny sliver of what this country has to offer. Icelanders are outdoorsy types, who think nothing of a four-hour drive along snowcovered roads from one site to the next and, if you’re not comfortable yomping through lava fields, this is not for you. But we adored it, and all the more for having friendly local guides to tell us what to order, translate where necessary, and come up with the best timetable. Inga had provided sandwiches to keep us going in the car, and also took me to a supermarket where I stocked up on Icelandic lamb, skyr (their yoghurt), birch salt and marigold-coloured butter to take home. We’ll have to come back, though… we still haven’t seen the Northern Lights. Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or log on to dnatatravel.com
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Destinations Iceland
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Opening pages: An eruption of the Bรกrdarbunga volcano. This page: The Jรถkulsรก รก Fjรถllum river. Next pages: The Blue Lagoon geothermal spa
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Destinations Iceland
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Destinations Iceland
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Weekends xxxx
Weekends
There’s much you can do in just a few days... • • • • • 65
one weekend for all: Munich p66 48-hour foodie: lyon p68 The locals’ guide To dubai p70 Travel noTes: souq waqif p72 sTaycaTions p75
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Weekends
Munich For All
October 2016
One Weekend For All In... Munich
The city may be heralding the arrival of Oktoberfest, but there are plenty of other experiences to drink in on a trip to the beautiful Bavarian capital
The Romantic One To Eat • Tantris • Pfistermühle • Vierwasser
• Did you know? The Bayerische Staatsoper has a proud heritage dating back to 1653, while the National Theatre it calls home (located on Max-JosephPlatz) is considered one of the prime opera venues in the world. This is the time of year when the opera gets into its pomp, and almost every night throughout October the venue will reverberate to an array of finely performed concerts, operas and ballets. Explore the performance schedule at staatsoper.de
To Stay • München Palace • Hotel Laimer Hof • Anna Hotel
Clip-clop around Munich’s lush 900-acre Englischer Garten in a horse-drawn carriage, and be sure to pack a picnic, as this is one of the city’s true urban beauty spots. Prefer someone else to prep the cuisine? Within the garden, Seehaus restaurant is an idyllic dining enclave with pretty lake views and a menu of seafood deliciousness. Stroll together through Fünf Höfe – the most elegant shopping mall in Munich – and you won’t know whether to peer through the windows of the 64 exclusive stores or gaze at the stunning architecture of these ‘Five Courts’. Fashion, lifestyle and art combine here. Back to serenity, partake in a genuine Japanese tea ceremony at the Japanisches Teehaus, set on a tiny lake island in meditative surrounds. Make time for an afternoon movie date at Gloria Filmpalast, a 1950s-inspired upscale cinema in which you can view new and classic flicks while sinking into ‘first-class’ seats and being served gourmet snacks (you can even opt for a glass of bubbles or a cocktail). For dinner, the world revolves around your love at Restaurant 181, in picturesque Olympiapark. Savour four courses of fine dining from a freshly inspired menu that changes weekly, while relishing a slowly rotating vista from 181m above Munich.
• Ask a local “Culture is tradition here: savour the Alte Pinakothek, the Museum Brandhorst or the Lenbachhaus, as well as Häusler Contemporary. Great shopping exists at Ludwig Beck on Marienplatz, with a huge choice of music on the fifth floor and sometimes a live concert. My friends always stay at The Charles Hotel – walking distance from the museums – and after a day in the city we enjoy a delicious dinner at Sophia’s Restaurant & Bar.” – Countess Caroline von Waldburg 66
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The Adventurous One To Eat • Ratskeller • Welser-Kuche • KOI
To Stay • Hotel Torbräu • Pullman Munich • Hotel Excelsior
Sure, you can see the wonders of this city on a sightseeing bike tour, but get into the 21st century with a whizz around these quaint streets in a Segway (you can collect one from Karlsplatz 4, near to the Kunsthalle München contemporary museum). Munich is one for hikers, too. An hour away on the train, the freshwater lake of Chiemsee is known as the Bavarian Sea, and is home to countless palaces, monasteries and island-hopping boat rides, with opportunities to sail or play golf. Frauenchiemsee is the quieter island, where you can tuck into a dish of fresh fish after a hearty yomp. Climbers with a head for heights should make plans for the peak of Zugspitze near the Austrian border – at 2,962m high, it’s Germany’s tallest mountain. The Höllental route is there to test experienced mountaineers – or, if you’ve a less active member in your party, the Eibsee cable car will power you to ‘the top of Germany’. For less physical exertion still, but no less excitement, join the fans of national football champions FC Bayern Munich, who ensure any match at the Allianz Arena is a roof-raising spectacle. They’ve among the cheapest ticket prices for a top-flight team in Europe, so attend a home game and wave your club scarf with fervour.
Weekends
Munich For All
The Family-Friendly One To Eat • Taverna Limani • Görreshof • Hofbräukeller
To Stay • Mandarin Oriental • Le Méridien • The Westin Grand
If your clan is a studious lot, don a pair of headphones for the guided audio tour around the fascinating Residenz München. The former royal palace of Bavarian monarchs evokes every adjective of beauty with its ornate collections, chapels, galleries and rooms – a cultural treasure to enrapture minds of all ages. A day tour you won’t want to miss is the two-hour train ride (to Füssen station from München Hauptbahnhof) out to fairy taleworthy Neuschwanstein Castle, passing by lush green countryside and the immense Bavarian Alps: spellbinding. From structures to more lively attention seekers, Sea Life has more than 4,000 aquatic animals in over 33 fascinating displays, including Gonzales the sea turtle and countless blacktip reef sharks. Roll up, roll up for Europe’s biggest circus, Circus Krone. Founded in 1905, it has a 14m-tall big-top dome, and alongside acrobatic performers you’ll see elephants, a hippo and a rhino, horses, monkeys, zebras, parrots and more. German children know the intent of the phrase ‘We’re going to Obletter Spielwaren’, so if the weather takes a dour turn (or your kids simply deserve a treat), head to the multi-floor toy emporium thats home to around 16,000 kinds of ‘I want one!’ 67
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The Restful One To Eat • Savanna • EssZimmer by Käfer • Gratitude
To Stay • Munich Marriott • Sofitel Bayerpost • The Charles Hotel
The rustic restaurant Spatenhaus an der Oper dates back to 1896, and is as memorable for the eyes as for the palate, with its classic paintings and pretty chandeliers. Here you can recline in opulence while sampling homemade fare such as kaiserschmarr’n, a deconstructed German pancake cooked in a skillet with raisins and almonds, and served with apple purée. For culture with a dash of luxury, the BMW Museum is a must-attend history lesson with a difference. Explore the historic vision, tradition and automotive beauty of the German marque, which celebrates its centenary this year. Meanwhile, Maximilianstrasse may sound like a mouthful, but the place speaks volumes in terms of sophistication: this royal avenue is where you’ll find elite luxury boutiques (as well as the Hotel Vier Jahreszeiten Kempinski, which is considered among Munich’s finest). It is at another hotel, the Bayerischer Hof, where laid-back travellers can indulge at Blue Spa Bar & Lounge. Be pampered with a soothing spa treatment before heading to the rooftop to enjoy curious menu items like mango soup with lemongrass prawn skewers, accompanied by a glass of something heart-warming and 360° views of the city.
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48-Hour Foodie
October 2016
48-Hour Foodie: Lyon
The gastronome can unearth delicious eats in any town, but Lyon is a heavenly prospect – among the cities that vie for ‘dining capital of the world’ status. It’s easy to see why this French city is so fêted when it comes to food
• Regional delights “Any visitor simply must try a Lyonnais salad, composed of lettuce with fried bacon, garlic croutons and a poached egg. A main course with impact is the quenelle de brochet, and the best-known versions from Lyon are famous for their delicate mousse consistency, traditionally made with pike and served in a graceful sauce mousseline. For a sweet finish, opt for praline pie. It’s a confection you’ll see in all the patisseries of Lyon: a crunchy, sweet pink-coloured tart made with almonds.” – Anthony Bonnet Head chef at Michelin-starred Les Loges • Hot right now “Burgundy Lounge is an original concept: both a gourmet restaurant and a bar that serves fine grape and refined, tasty dishes. With a unique dining atmosphere, Le Canut et Les Gones presents original yet traditional cuisine with a menu that is regularly tweaked according to seasons and produce. Jérémy Galvan is a young and talented chef with great culinary audacity, serving up minimalist cuisine – a slight change from expected Lyonnais style – at his Jérémy Galvan Restaurant. In addition, Danton and L’Archange are other stunning addresses, loved by tourists as well as proud Lyonnais.” – GerArD rAvet Chef concierge at Cour des Loges and regional president of Les Clefs d’Or in Rhône-Alpes
Day One
Day Two
• Breakfast One of the best breakfast spots is Le Polo Club, which is actually a tearoom with a very British vibe (to ease you into Francophilia). Tuck into toasty scones and fluffy quiches, while sipping on a cup of rare kopi luwak or one of 25 blends of tea. It’s a stylish start to the day, with eggs prepared any way you like, accompanied by a glass of bubbles or grape.
• Breakfast Late to rise on your second day in Lyon? Grand Café de la Préfecture sees to hunger pangs by trailing into brunch-time territory. You can catch your fill of flaky pastries, meats, homemade cookies and froth-topped cappuccinos, and every item is prepared with the expected French finesse. It’s a classic, classy morning-pleaser.
• Lunch A twist on the traditional quenelle de brochet, scrumptious foie gras (the signature speciality), fromage blanc, exotic deserts… it’s impossible to pick our favourite homemade Le Pailleron menu item to validate this bistrostyle eatery. What’s certain is that it will put a halt on any midday sightseeing as you linger at the table for another delectable course. Feels just like home.
• Lunch Putting finely balanced, delicate dishes to one side for this meal, Café Brasserie Chantecler serves up unrestrained delights such as a beefy Lyonnais cheeseburger made with the taste bud-melting creamy regional cheese SaintMarcellin. There’s a buzz around lunchtime as lively locals tuck into hearty midday fare – plus, with a street market on the doorstep, it’s all atmosphere, no pretence.
• Dinner Paul Bocuse is one of the main men in Lyon when it comes to gastronomy, and his L’Auberge du Pont de Collonges is a local legend. Three Michelin stars set expectations high (even in a city awash with culinary acclaim), and the perfectly presented dishes of meats and fowl (with tempting desserts) are generous in portion size and deserve the fanfare. Be sure to reserve a table in advance.
• Dinner Venture back to exquisite dining theatre at the two-Michelin-starred Le Neuvième Art. Christophe Roure’s elegant dining space in the Brotteaux district is where menu stars flicker with the seasons – one such dish that indicates his creativity is pigeon with beetroot, confitleg pastilla, blackberry jus and orange-peel marmalade. The gourmet cuisine here looks just as good as it sounds – art indeed.
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October 2016
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Weekends
The Locals’ Guide
October 2016
The Locals’ Guide To... Dubai
Whether you’re fresh in town or merely looking for a new favourite haunt, our experts unlock the city’s most sophisticated secrets
TALA SOUBRA Founder of forkitoverdubai.com
GUiLLAUme CUiRy Owner and founder of La Galerie Nationale
Eat Your Heart Out
Take A Cultural Detour
• Dubai’s favourite foodie pastime With over a hundred Friday brunch options to choose from in the city, you’ll find me at only one – Traiteur at the Park Hyatt Dubai. Brunch at Traiteur sounds a little like this: a saxophone, the chitchat of the artsy cool, a lobster tail being grilled and footsteps circling the beautiful dessert room. When temperatures are cool, the best tables are outside.
• Which galleries put Dubai on the art map? Art in Dubai is a very heteroclite representation of art from the Middle Orient. Most of the city’s galleries are promoting artists working in the region (Syria, Iran, Qatar, Kuwait, Iraq, Oman, Jordan… and of course the UAE) – a wealth of talent. Two hubs share the main exhibition areas, DIFC and Alserkal Avenue. I prefer the latter as I find it more forwardthinking and creative, and less academic. You can visit gallery spaces like Isabelle van den Eynde, one of the oldest in Dubai, showcasing iconic artists of the Middle East. In fact, you can visit 20 galleries in one place here, which represent the best of the local contemporary-art market. The hub’s extension (with the opening of the Custot and Leila Heller galleries) has added a more international dimension to Alserkal Avenue. Go alone or with family – as an art connoisseur or art lover – and devote a day of admiration in a relaxed atmosphere.
Travel and food expressionista Tala talks us through the emirate’s top eats
• Start the day right For a chic breakfast, order a café latte and almond croissant at La Serre Boulangerie. The white walls, floor-to-ceiling windows and fashionable crowd make for a good morning buzz. For something more casual, choose Baker & Spice in Jumeirah. Its classic shakshouka with a side of freshly toasted bread will always be my selection, and the dark woods and rich Americana coffee make it undeniably cosy. • Midday cravings Bringing sexy back to lunch is Jean-Georges Kitchen, in the Four Seasons Resort Dubai at Jumeirah Beach. Think gourmet fried chicken, hamachi with crushed olives and lemon, or roasted cod with apricot emulsion. The outdoor garden area is the place to be. For a more casual lunch, head to Wox at the Grand Hyatt Dubai, where you can have the city’s best noodles in broth. • A final flourish Come evening, I’m looking for somewhere with electricity hanging in the air. Cipriani in DIFC is my choice, for the ‘who’s who in town’ clientele, Italian waiters in white blazers, and let’s not forget the welcome bellinis. On a more casual and, perhaps, relaxed night out with a friend, I’d head to Bistro Des Arts for a perfect steak tartare. • New kids on the block Arabica, a Japanese coffee house in The Dubai Mall; Muchachas, a trendy Mexican spot at Holiday Inn Express Dubai – Safa Park; and Ruya, a high-end Turkish restaurant at Grosvenor House.
Art and design expert Guillaume lends his astute eye to the best of Dubai’s aesthetic enclaves
• What’s on the cultural calendar for October? Dubai Design Week (25-28 October) inspires the city, and the focus really shifts to creativity in pockets across Dubai. At La Galerie Nationale we specialise in 20th-century design and vintage furniture; for DDW, we’ll make the gallery into a typically Parisian-decorated apartment, and about 150 new pieces will be showcased from the 1940s to 1970s. In the same spirit, we will find paintings from the 1950s and 1960s, and numerous ceramics from the same period. This kind of show is unique; the goal is to create a friendly ambience, in a unique atmosphere in the Middle East, to promote understanding of vintage design and decoration. • Away from the art gallery, where are the best places to soak up some culture? A visit to Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood, the old, fully renovated city in Bur Dubai, is a must. Make a pit stop at XVA – a gallery, concept store and place for a cup of healthy coffee, all managed by the legendary Mona. There’s also the fledgling Culture Village, on the creekside, and the new Dubai Opera in Downtown. 70
World Traveller
Weekends
The Locals’ Guide
October 2016
Dubai Design Week inspires the city this month, and the focus shifts to creativity
NATALiA ShUSTOvA Founder of shoestova.com
Broaden Your Style Horizons
Fashion consultant Natalia selects her can’t-miss boutiques for the discerning shopper • My go-to shopping destination… Level Shoes: it’s an original concept that doesn’t exist anywhere else. You can see all the major shoe brands under one roof for both men and women, which presents a really unique experience. I also love Bloomingdale’s and Harvey Nichols (at The Dubai Mall and Mall of the Emirates, respectively) because, again, they bring all my favourite brands together in one place. • Dubai’s best-kept secret boutique… Boutique 1 is fantastic – they’re pioneers, always on the hunt for something new, original and up-and-coming to the fashion market here in Dubai. Every season they’re up to date with all the trends, new labels and style pieces not yet introduced to the region. • For something a little bit different… The Sauce boutique in The Dubai Mall (or their home store on Jumeirah Road) has truly quirky and unique pieces. My newest favourite, though, is Human & Beings, at the architecturally stunning BoxPark on Al Wasl Road (and a stroll through BoxPark is beautiful, even if it’s not to splurge). For high-end brands at smart prices, savvy shoppers should visit The Outlet Village – a truly upscale development that only recently opened. For something extra special, visit Bambah on City Walk: it’s a homegrown brand whose vintage-inspired ready-to-wear pieces are favoured by celebrities. 71
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Weekends
Travel Notes
October 2016
Souq Waqif Step inside this fascinating, century-old labyrinth of shops and cafés in the heart of the Qatari capital, recently renovated to preserve its architectural and cultural importance
Doha, Qatar
These whitewashed walls have kept secret stories told in every tongue
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masonry walls (where rough-edged blocks of stone are strengthened with wooden poles) are just some of the authentic techniques and architectural touches. None of the buildings are above three storeys in height, adding to the intimate feel of the area. Located behind the Corniche (next to Grand Hamad Street), there’s an array of memories to be made in this pedestrianised corner of Doha. Restaurants along the thoroughfare are ideal for people-watching, and when the summer heat simmers, a combination of fans and mist sprays are deployed to cool diners. Standout eateries in the above-QAR100 price range are Al Matbakh Rooftop Grill (with its pretty views and multinational cuisine, such as a tandoor feast of hammour, tiger prawns, chicken and lamb), Damasca One (for delicious cold appetisers and flavour-bursting mezze), and the aptly named Le Gourmet (offering Lebanese breakfasts, delights from the Saje and even pasta dishes). More wallet-friendly options like Café Tasse ensure visitors can always soak up the atmosphere with a caffeineinfused kick. For an extended stay, nine boutique hotels (swbh.com) are quietly nestled in the souq, each with their own personality, keeping guests in touch with gourmet offerings and spa treatments in comfortable lounge settings and luxurious suites. These whitewashed walls have kept secret stories told in every tongue, uttered within their maze-like avenues throughout the years. Souq Waqif is a refreshing antidote to all the air-conditioned mega-malls – a place to run fingers through the cultural fabric of this characterful GCC city.
he heavy perfume of smoky oud wafts through the air, competing with the syrupy sweet strains of dreamy hookah, as patrons take slow sips of coffee from tables set upon the cobblestones. Hooded falcons stand as sentries on wooden perches, detecting the steps of pearly white Arabian horses mounted by policemen (in traditional attire) on patrol. The gentle breeze disrupts hanging, brightly coloured swathes of cloth, as the call to prayer begins to echo along the streets, emitting from the nearby mosque… A scene from 2016, or from early in the last century? Though visitors can now spy touristcentric souvenirs among the handmade wares and spices, a discreet branch of Häagen-Dazs, plus subtle signs for free Wi-Fi (courtesy of Ooredoo), Souq Waqif’s essence remains the same as ever. Once a bustling commercial market where Bedouins welcomed traders from Persia, the Arabian Peninsula and India, the souq is now a lifestyle destination offering retail therapy, hotel stays and authentic gastronomy, with a diverse blend of salespeople manning its stores. Overtaken by other shopping options, Souq Waqif had hit its lowest ebb in the modern day until, in 2004, Sheikh Hamad bin Khalifa Al Thani put in place a plan to resurrect this symbolic part of his country’s heritage. Artisans were led by Qatari artist Mohamed Ali Abdullah to restore its glory. He unearthed aerial photos that demonstrated how Souq Waqif looked prior to its destruction and misuse, and the team used traditional materials to restore the souq’s grandeur. Bamboo mats and gravel, as well as rubble
Don’t miss
Souq Waqif Art Center is the guardian of an impressive collection of both local and international artwork (on its ground floor), with free art, calligraphy, pottery and ceramics classes enabling you to tap into your own artistic inspiration, and ensure engagement in the Qultural experience.
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Weekends
Travel Notes
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Weekends
World Traveller
October 2016
Staycations
Staycations Making plans for a relaxing weekend? There’s a plethora of hotels in the GCC that are just waiting to exceed your every expectation…
Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay fourseasons.com/bahrain
Eastern Mangroves Hotel & Spa by Anantara
Jumeirah at Etihad Towers
Zubarah Boutique Hotel Doha
jumeirah.com/en/hotels-resorts/ abu-dhabi/jumeirah-etihad-towers
abu-dhabi.anantara.com
zubarahhotels.com
Location BAHrAin
Location ABU DHABi
Location ABU DHABi
Location qAtAr
In a nutshell You’re close to land but won’t want to leave: the resort-style property has infinity and saltwater pools, family activities, a relaxing spa and more, to meet any active or laid-back need
In a nutshell Anantara Spa is a hallmark of wellness excellence: 15 luxurious treatment rooms, a mani and pedi room, a traditional Turkish hammam, sauna and steam rooms… Welcome to a new you
In a nutshell The Club Executive Lounge is a noteworthy element, but once you’re looking to unplug from the tech life, a pristine private beach and three outdoor swimming pools harbour relaxation
In a nutshell The Rayhaan Spa at this charming boutque hotel is ideal for a dose of post-city-exploration pampering – treat your feet to 30 minutes of reflexology before receiving the signature massage
Selected suite You’re here for the view, so opt for the Royal Suite. Amazing vistas: check. But were you expecting fully wireless in-room tech and an 84-inch flatscreen TV?
Selected suite The Royal Mangroves Suite with private entrance and rooftop pool is breathtaking – duplex living that’s among the UAE’s finest
Selected suite Its Royal Etihad Suite represents the hotel’s elite offering, and this is a guest’s own private kingdom, with space, sophistication and privacy – for up to eight people
Selected suite 45 guest rooms keep matters uncomplicated, and the environs of the topmost Zubarah Suite bring with them a balcony and city views
Cuisine On level 63, Ray’s Grill delivers the goods for meat lovers with Australian Master Kobe cooked to tender perfection
Cuisine An Argentine’s heart will skip a beat when hearing the name Caminito: Latin flavour profiles with European influences
Cuisine CUT by Wolfgang Puck is one of the most highly regarded steak chains in the world. This is a sleek, modern take on the experience
Cuisine You’d expect tastes of Thailand to appear here, and Pachaylen doesn’t disappoint, serving up superb, authentic Thai food from the open kitchen 75
World Traveller
Weekends Abu Dhabi
October 2016
Tradition Takes Flight Hosting an exhibition of timehonoured crafts, Abu Dhabi swoops in with a hunting and equestrian show-stealer
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e’ll grant you that there’s something a bit corporate sounding about the word ADIHEX (code for the Abu Dhabi International Hunting & Equestrian Exhibition), but trust us to remove the falcon hood on your judgement because this exhibition dedicated to hunting, equestrian and outdoor sports is really worth seeing. 2016 marks the 14th annual iteration of this enriching heritage get-together, and it shoulders quite a responsibility, too, tasked as it is with showcasing weaponry, outdoor and marine sports, safari, arts and antiques concurrently – all while promoting the preservation of culture. For those with more than a keen interest, there’s ample opportunity to acquire new pieces for the camping-gear set, hunt locker or stallion back in the stable, but what for the casual observer? All the fun of the fair, along with the chance to learn about Emirati culture via immersive live performances and up-close displays of traditional crafts, plus hunting and equestrian activities that showcase the precision and prowess of falcons and the prancing beauty of Arabian horses.
There’s also the excitement of a camel auction, the tension of a Saluki beauty contest, the thrill of outdoor sports competitions and the fascination of a lure-coursing demonstration, while art and photography collections will please shutterbugs. ADIHEX is held from 4 to 8 October at the Abu Dhabi National Exhibition Centre, though if you can’t make it to the capital on those dates, fret not: Abu Dhabi has more permanent examples of culture to uncover. For example, the Heritage Village (out by the Corniche) is a devoted reconstruction of a traditional desert village, with craft workshops and monthly cultural festivals to see. Al Ain has a camel market (for early risers, as proceedings start at 6am), and you can appease your curiosity for birds of prey with a trip to Abu Dhabi Falcon Hospital, strolling the museum or trying your hand at this ancient hunting art in the lush surrounding gardens. Be it for an organised exhibition or merely inquisition, Abu Dhabi has culture covered. For more information see adihex.com, and to plan your Abu Dhabi trip, log on to visitabudhabi.ae 76
• Stay here: One of Abu Dhabi’s newest luxury arrivals, Bab Al Qasr Hotel is a modern Arabian fairy tale located on the picturesque Corniche. One of the largest private beaches in the capital is a significant alluring factor as the cooler months slope in, and beautiful traditional artisanship with a contemporary flavour awaits indoors. A sumptuous Moroccan spa provides a soothing setting for guests, who can then relax in stunning rooms. Alongside multiple restaurants and cafés for further indulgence, this is only the beginning of the Bab Al Qasr story… millenniumhotels.com/en/abudhabi/bab-al-qasr-hotel
A NEW PERSPECTIVE. A NEW EXPERIENCE. 6MWMRK LMKL EFSZI 7LIMOL >E]IH 6SEH [MXL XLI TYPWI SJ XLI GMX] EX ]SYV ½RKIVXMTW HMWGSZIV E RI[ YVFER WERGXYEV] [MXLMR *VEWIV 7YMXIW (YFEM ;I MRZMXI ]SY XS I\TIVMIRGI SYV FVERH RI[ LSXIP VSSQW IEGL JIEXYVMRK GSRXIQTSVEV] MRXIVMSVW [MXL EFYRHERX REXYVEP PMKLX HIWMKRIV EQIRMXMIW ERH TERSVEQMG ZMI[W SZIV XLI GMX] 6IPE\ YR[MRH ERH IRNS] SYV +SPH 7XERHEVH JEGMPMXMIW ERH E[EVH [MRRMRK WIVZMGI %X *VEWIV 7YMXIW (YFEM [I LEZI MX EPP BOOK NOW for our Guaranteed Best Available Rates and special promotional offers at www.dubai.frasershospitality.com 8SPP *VII *6%7)6 8IP )QEMP VIWIVZEXMSRW HYFEM$JVEWIVWLSWTMXEPMX] GSQ
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Weekends
World Traveller
dnata Offers
October 2016
dnata
Weekend Offers To book any of these offers, call +971 4 316 6666, visit a dnata outlet or log on to dnatatravel.com
Bahrain
movenpick hotel bahrain 2 nights from USD346 per person Special offer: 50% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in an Executive Suite with breakfast Validity: Now ’til 31 Oct 2016
Oman
al bustan palace, a ritz-carlton hotel 2 nights from USD406 per person Special offer: Special promotional rates Includes: Stay in a Lagoon Guest Room with breakfast Validity: Now ’til 31 Oct 2016
UAE
kempinski hotel ajman 1 night from USD98 per person Special offer: 40% discount on room rate Includes: Stay in a Laguna Poolside Room with breakfast Validity: Now ’til 31 Oct 2016
danat al ain resort 1 night from USD57 per person Special offer: Special promotional rates Includes: Stay in a Standard Room with breakfast Validity: Now ’til 31 Oct 2016
hyatt capital gate, abu dhabi 3 nights from USD360 per person Special offer: Stay 2 nights and receive a complimentary night free, plus 2 kids below 6 years stay and eat for free Includes: Stay in a Capital Suite with breakfast Validity: Now ’til 20 Nov 2016
yassat gloria hotel & apartments dubai 1 night from USD78 per person Special offer: Complimentary upgrade to half board Includes: Stay in a Deluxe 1 Bedroom Suite – City View with breakfast and lunch or dinner Validity: Now ’til 30 Nov 2016 78
Clockwise from top left: Kempinski Hotel Ajman; Hyatt Capital Gate, Abu Dhabi; Danat Al Ain Resort; Mövenpick Hotel Bahrain; Grand Hyatt Dubai; Yassat Gloria Hotel & Apartments Dubai; Al Bustan Palace, A Ritz-Carlton Hotel
grand hyatt dubai 1 night from USD98 per person Special offer: Special promotional rates Includes: Stay in a Grand Room with breakfast Validity: Now ’til 31 Oct 2016
Weekends
World Traveller
Win!
A stay in Italy’s Eternal City at the Rome Cavalieri, Waldorf Astoria Hotels & Resorts
Competition
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et on high above Rome, this majestic hotel overlooks a city that has been an epicentre of influence for centuries, and whose ancient remnants continue to allure the cultureloving traveller. The luxury resort is the perfect place to begin a romantic weekend or sightseeing adventure: to tantalise, there’s Heinz Beck’s sensational La Pergola (the only three-Michelin-starred restaurant in Rome), a prestigious art collection housed within the hotel, wellness galore at the sophisticated spa, and a vast terrace for you to peer down upon the best of Rome’s domes like a true emperor. This month’s prize could take you there, for a three-night stay for two guests in one of the Rome Cavalieri’s King Deluxe rooms. The prize includes breakfast at the in-property L’Uliveto 79
October 2016
restaurant, too. To be in with a chance, just correctly answer this hotel-related question: Who is the mastermind behind the threeMichelin-star-standard La Pergola?
A) Julius Caesar B) Augustus C) Heinz Beck Email your answer to easywin@hotmedia publishing.com by 31 October 2016. Prize voucher can be redeemed by 30 September 2017, excluding Christmas, New Year’s Eve and Easter holidays and any blackout date applied by the hotel. Flights not included in prize offer. For more on the hotel, visit romecavalieri.com
World Traveller
Suite Dreams
October 2016
Suite Dreams
Our monthly ‘finish with a flourish’, delving into a unique suite whose character and style will set you apart
What: Peggy guggenheim Suite
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Where: The Gritti Palace, Venice
housing her collection of masterpieces. The elegant Gritti Palace – a refined, recently invigorated version of its ever-iconic self – has deployed tasteful décor in this suite. Elements encompass opulent silks, rich velvets and embroidered damask drapes, polished heritage terrazzo veneziano flooring, oak parquet in the bedroom, and a luxurious marble bathroom. The suite can also be combined with Landmark Grand Canal Rooms to form a two-bedroom abode. Choice pieces of art reflect Guggenheim’s fascinating artistic sensibilities, and the only thing that will avert your gaze is the activity upon the rippling Grand Canal below. Live-in art, you might say. thegrittipalace.com
hile the Venetian Luxury Collection hotel gets frequent applause for its immense Terrazza Redentore Suite, as avid art lovers it’s this intimate Patron Grand Canal Suite that caught our eye. The Peggy Guggenheim-inspired bastion of taste is one of three carefully curated signature chambers, which are dedicated to inspiring influencers of the art and literature worlds (the others being Ernest Hemingway and W Somerset Maugham). It’s quite a gesture in a city of such weighty cultural and artistic resplendence, but the tribute is with good reason; Guggenheim was a frequent visitor to the hotel, and her homage is on its corner, facing her former home – which is now a major art museum 80
JW MARRIOT T® MARQUIS DUBAI
Destination of Exceptional Taste. Experience a world of choice with authentic flavors at a myriad of award-winning restaurants and lounges.
PERUVIAN FOOD & DRINKS TO SHARE
Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971 4 414 0000, F +971 4 414 0001 | jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com JW Marriott Marquis Dubai |
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