World Traveller September'17

Issue 113 | September 2017

Complimentary copy

Dream trips

From meeting penguins in Antarctica to blowing your mind in Japan

Produced in Dubai Production City

BEIJING MELBOURNE BEIRUt AJMAN

And relax...

The world’s most sensational spa retreats

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Three Distinct Hotels.

One Destination.

Refreshing experiences by the Canal This summer, escape to a place where the air is alive with diverse style and scenic views of the Dubai Water Canal.

Al Habtoor City serves up a myriad of unique settings, international cuisine and revitalizing spa treatments at the elegant The St. Regis Dubai, the electric W Dubai - Al Habtoor City and the contemporary The Westin Dubai, Al Habtoor City.

Discover The City: visit our website or call your nearest travel agent.

For more information please call +971 4 435 5544 or visit

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Editor’s note

Editor’s note

A

s the children go back to school and the pace of life in the region cranks up a notch after a long, hot summer, many of us will be thinking about the next break on the horizon. Whether you’re looking for easy ways to keep the summer holiday feeling going, or are hoping to escape with friends for a long overdue catch-up, you’ll find plenty of inspiration on these pages.

managing director Victoria Thatcher Editorial director John Thatcher group Commercial director David Wade managing Editor Faye Bartle Contributing Editor Claire Malcolm art director Kerri Bennett

For those who need to unwind, we have selected 10 of the most sensational spa breaks around the world that are guaranteed to add some ‘wow’ factor to your wellbeing. If a city break is calling, read our up-close-and-personal guide to Beijing and how best to navigate the vast megalopolis.

When it comes to travel, it pays to think big and that’s exactly what we’re encouraging you to do with our ‘dream trips’ feature on page 48, which highlights a veritable wish list of destinations to discover. From tracking jaguars in the wild to wandering the waterfalls of South America, get set to be inspired.

Regular readers may notice that this issue has a new look. As well as expanding our topical Globetrotter section with more stories and travel tips from those in the know, including our resident expert Rob Arrow, there are a number of new features to enjoy in the Weekends section. Read our indepth guide to Goa, check out the first in our series of great family getaway ideas and browse our suggestions for staycations on your doorstep – there’s something for everyone to enjoy this month.

Happy travelling.

designer Jamie Pudsey

From the World Traveller team john@hotmediapublishing.com

senior advertising manager Mia Cachero mia@hotmediapublishing.com Business development manager Mohamed Galal mohamed@hotmediapublishing.com +971 4 369 0915 Production manager Muthu Kumar

Jun-Dec 2016 | 22,984 | BPA Consumer Audit Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from HOT Media Publishing is strictly prohibited. All prices mentioned are correct at time of press but may change. HOT Media Publishing does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller.

Tel: 00971 4 364 2876 Fax: 00971 4 369 7494

CovEr imagE SHA Wellness Clinic in Alicante, Spain

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Contents September 2017

15 CheCk in

8 15 25

Dina Zaki offers her top tips for shopping the style capitals of the world

a change of scenery

Discover the lush green hills of Kerala; explore the clifftop villages of Santorini; and journey into unspoiled seclusion in the Seychelles

26

globetrotter

Your guide to all that’s hot in travel, including trending destinations and new hotels.

Plus, wellbeing expert Mel Wells describes her best ever trips shop My city

In this Fashion Week special, Dubai-based fashion designer

28

chef’s top tables

Paolo Verzini, executive chef at JW Marriott Cairo, shares his favourite dining moments the locals’ guide to Melbourne

From navigating the labyrinth of Melbourne’s famous laneways to sipping a double-shot flat white and admiring the street art – three local personalities share their favourite ways to explore World Traveller 5

Contents 50

Destinations

34 40 48

the Iguaçu Falls and spotting elephants in the wild... we reveal how to turn your fantasy travels into reality

10 sensational spa breaks

From idyllic island retreats to hip city spas, we've selected the best places to get pampered step into beiJing

Beijing is a vast, intimidating megalopolis, but regular visitor Ellen Himelfarb can get you inside the city – up close and personal dreaM trips

From lazing on a paradise beach to being awestruck by

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WeekenDs

58 62

seeking a break away with a difference, the Lebanese capital is calling

64

a long weekend in goa

With a fascinating history, thundering waterfalls and beautiful beaches, Goa is an enchanting destination for a mini break everyone's heading to beirut

Whether you're an art enthusiast, or are simply

66 84

faMily getaway

Faye Bartle travelled to Ajman with two small children in tow and discovered fun, pampering and an elusive full night’s sleep staycations

Enjoy a great break on your doorstep, at our hand-picked selection of luxury hotels suite dreaMs

Unwind at this thatched beach villa in Mozambique

Exuding European grandeur and urban glamour, discover a space that mirrors your sense of style. Visit Dubai this year and live the iconic Versace lifestyle in a cosmopolitan city that echoes the charms of tradition.

Explore our family, business, honeymoon and other stay offers at www.palazzoversace.ae/specialoffers

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Check in

A change of scenery

Kerala, India

The early morning mist unfurls its tendrils across Kerala’s lush green hills intersected by thriving tea and spice plantations that lend their own heady aroma to South India’s most serene state. Mother Nature is at her finest here, as you’ll soon discover amid the gentle rolling slopes and laidback plantation communities. With an average elevation of 1,200 metres, a drive up into the dramatic Western Ghats mountain range, which extends from the north of the country to its southernmost tip, puts you within picking distance of an encyclopedic variety of crops, including cloves, cardamom, black pepper and, of course, tea. September marks the start of the high season for tourism, with a number of boat races and other festivities set to liven up your trip.

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Change of scenery CheCk In

A change of scenery Santorini, Greece

It doesn't get more picture perfect than Santorini, where white-washed stone houses with bright blue painted doors perch precariously on the cliffs above the glamorous harbour. The island’s geography owes much to its volcanic origins and the steep rocky terrain guarantees a thigh-burning workout. When you reach the top, however, the views are more than worth it. A stroll around the island eyrie villages of Fira and Imerovigli, with their clutch of tiny cafÊs and quirky shops, resets your body clock to Greek time and feels a world away from the tourist hordes. All you need to do it sit back, relax and soak up the late summer sun.

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CheCk In A change of scenery

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Change of scenery CheCk In

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CheCk In A change of scenery

A change of scenery Seychelles

Paradise lost and found, the Seychelles’ proliferation of white sand beaches, hidden coves and crystal clear turquoise waters lends itself to romanticised escapism with no shortage of private gems and remote hideaways. Drive along Mahé’s winding coastline to explore its 60 or so beaches and explore the rocky outcrops that hide echoing caves, with sea-smoothed walls adding a natural sculptural element. Adventure seekers can sail between some of the other islands, such as Praslin and La Digue, where all manner of flora and fauna flourish in unspoiled seclusion. Bear in mind that the season's steady winds may rock the boat so if you're prone to sea sickness you may wish to climb aboard a seaplane to explore further.

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JOURNEY INTO THE SPIRIT OF ARABIA. Relax and unwind as you breathe in the mystical charm of the Rub’ Al Khali.

Discover unparalleled desert luxury and cultural passion just 90 minutes from Abu Dhabi. Trek the footsteps of the Bedouin and create a thousand timeless moments in a luxury desert oasis.

To book your stay, call +971 (0) 2 895 8700 or email crome@anantara.com

LIFE IS A JOURNEY. Visit anantara.com

Globetrotter

From enjoying an on-the-water adventure to having a digital detox – here’s what’s hot in travel this month

Push the boat out Take to the water in style…

MALDIVES Dhoni good time Escape to Baros Maldives and you can set sail on a sunsoaked adventure onboard the 19-metre-long Nooma.

This impressive vessel, with its elegantly crafted curved prow, billowing single sail and thatched roof – not to mention the sarong-clad crew of four – evokes the traditional style of Maldivian sailing (Dhoni). Head off for a spot of reef snorkelling or a romantic dinner at sunset served by your very own personal butler. baros.com Story continued over the page...

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... continued SEYCHELLES Two in a boat The exclusive North Island, Seychelles has just 11 villas, so it feels like your on your very own private island. For a bonding experience on the water, grab your partner and paddle a kayak out into the light swell for amazing views of the reefs through the crystal clear waters. Work your way around the island, stopping at the secluded beaches and secret coves along the way – if you're lucky you may even spot rays and dolphins. north-island.com

North Island, Seychelles

ITALY Cruise Lake Como Visiting Italy soon? Splash out on the Lake Como Luxury Vintage Experience by Mandarin Oriental, Milan. This bespoke day trip provides you with a vintage Ferrari so you can make the 90-minute drive to Lake Como in style, where you will stay in a luxurious suite. Next, take a private tour aboard a classic Riva speedboat with canapés and bubbles served on board.

Available during September. momln-reservations@ mohg.com

Lake Como Luxury Vintage Experience by Mandarin Oriental, Milan

Disconnect to reconnect Holidays are for quality time with loved ones, so make sure you don’t sabotage it by staying glued to your phone. One of the biggest gripes among couples while on holiday is their partner’s constant use of social media, says a recent study by law firm Brookman. Over a quarter of those who took part said they felt frustrated or angry that their partner wasn’t engaged, or that they seemed distracted from the family during the trip. If you find it difficult to break the habit of reaching for your trusty gadgets, take this advice…

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Leave it behind. When you venture out, leave your phone or tablet in the hotel room, if possible. Whether you’re off on a day trip or are taking a stroll along the beach, you’re unlikely to miss anything important and will be able to give your nearest and dearest your full attention.

Switch to Flight Mode. If you want to use your phone for taking photos, simply switch it to Flight Mode. This way, you can still use all the usual functions without the risk of being distracted by social media updates.

Limit check-ins. If you feel compelled to check social media while you’re away,

make sure you do so for only a minute or two, and no more than twice a day – once in the morning and once in the evening. Also, bear in mind that most messages or notifications don’t need an immediate reply, so you can avoid getting caught up in unnecessary conversations while Sleep Mode your partner is angrily tapping his or her feet. Happy travels!

ZZ

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Beijing’s new hotel gem Trendsetters will be heading to China’s capital city this month to be among the first to stay at The Bulgari Hotel Beijing. Opening on 27 September, the property marks the fourth Bulgari Hotel in the world after Milan, Bali and London. It is located in the heart of the Embassy District, adjacent to Genesis Art Foundation, and is surrounded by lush, sculpted gardens. Featuring 119 guestrooms and suites, a 1,500-square-metre Bulgari Spa and a variety of dining spots, including Il Ristorante, it’s sure to dazzle even the most stylish travellers. bulgarihotels.com

PACk By THE RuLES Did you know that new baggage rules at Dubai International Airport, designed to help improve baggage services at the hub, state that bags must have at least one flat surface? That means no round or irregular shaped parcels or bags with long straps. Play it safe and check in with style with Bric’s Bellagio collection (pictured right). Having recently undergone a technical review – think larger wheel tires for improved stability and ergonomic handles – the vintagelooking collection is characterised by its square-shaped pieces with retro allure, enhanced by leather details. The polycarbonate trolleys come in four sizes, are super lightweight and feature a soft lining with herringbone pattern to inspire neat packing. brics.it

TAkE TWO In-flight kits these smart amenity kits will perk you up at 38,000 feet…

For fashion fans British Airways’ new Liberty London wash bags feature coveted prints from Liberty’s vintage textile archive and are packed with pampering goodies. Ladies can save face with complexion boosting treats by by Aromatherapy

Associates while men can have a quick shave using the Refinery shave gel and razor so they can hit the ground running. ba.com/first

ZIp IT

Adventure seekers will be pleased to learn that the world’s longest zip line is coming soon to Ras Al Khaimah. Watch this space for a first glimpse of the multi-million dollar project For art enthusiasts Qantas’ Business Class amenity kits feature works from 16 of Australia’s leading artists, photographers and digital influencers. The ‘Qantas Curates’ range is available to Business class customers on international flights and include a hand cream, lip balm and face moisturiser, as well as a wrap-around eye mask, toothpaste, toothbrush, earplugs and travel socks.

The designs are so good that they can easily be used as a make-up bag or evening clutch post flight. qantas.com

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Saray Signature Dead Sea Journey.

Renew for the journey ahead.

Immerse yourself in tranquility as you begin your spa journey with an energising scrub utilising aromatic Dead Sea salts followed by a full body mask coating you with rich remineralising mud also from the shores of the Dead Sea. Afterwards, soak in your own private Floatation Pool infused with therapeutic salt minerals to relieve muscles and joints and leave skin glowing. To finish, complete your journey of renewal with a nourishing body massage.

120 minutes, AED 990 Saray Spa received the award for Best Hydrotherapy Treatment at the Middle East Pool & Spa Awards 2016.

JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE T +971 4 414 6754 | mhrs.dxbjw.spa@marriott.com | jwmarriottmarquisdubailife.com JW Marriott Marquis Dubai |

@JWDubaiMarquis |

jwmarriottmarquisdubai

T&Cs apply. Offer is subject to availability. Spa opening hours are daily, 9am to 11pm. Indulge in additional facilities such as Swedish Dry Sauna, Steam Sauna, Circulation Shower, Jacuzzi and a relaxation lounge.

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MY BesT TrIP “Mum made it extra special” Dubai-based photographer Sukaina Rajabali turned a trip to the Maldives into a multi-generational bonding experience. sukainarajabali.com “You'd think it would be easy finding someone to tag along with you on a trip to the Maldives. Well, apparently not. Having booked a fabulous trip for my family, my husband had to duck out at the last minute. Just when I thought I’d be going on my own, my mother stepped in.

I was delighted – in more than 40 years of marriage, she’d never been away without my father so I hadn't thought to ask.

"We were all looking forward to a slower pace of life and spending quality time together. When we arrived at Outrigger Konotta Maldives Resort and laid eyes on the crystal clear waters and white sand beach, I will never forget the look on mum's face – it was one of pure delight and happiness. During our stay we fished, snorkelled, took lots of photos and went on a sunset cruise. It was a week of many firsts for all and we embraced the chance to relax and enjoy each other’s company. Everyone should take a bucket list trip with their mother at least once.”

GET THE TrAvEl FEEls...

Three new reasons To Travel Feel all white in Abu Dhabi. Peruvian restaurant COYA Abu Dhabi is hosting its Summer Season Closing Party on 6 September. Marking the first La Noche Blanca White Summer Party in the UAE capital, partygoers can step into a white wonderland complete with two resident DJs and a saxophonist. From 11pm-3am. +971 (0)2 306 7000.

Be sparring partners in Bahrain. The new Parent-Child Bonding treatments on offer at the Spa at Four Seasons Hotel Bahrain Bay have been designed to encourage families to spend more quality time together. There are three curated sessions, including the 45-minute Relaxed Us package, which involves a soothing, sideby-side massage. Suitable for children aged six to 15. fourseasons.com/bahrain Jump to it in Maldives. Those who like to keep fit on holiday could be lured by the new Jumping Fitness class at The St. Regis Maldives Vommuli Resort. Conducted on especially developed trampolines, and taking place amid the tropical gardens, it’ll give you an impressive cardio workout. stregismaldives.com

Mad for Melbourne Home to world-class dining, art galleries, homegrown fashion and a packed sports calendar, including the Grand Prix, Melbourne is Australia’s fastest growing city and is projected to overtake Sydney as the country’s biggest city by 2030. It may come as no surprise then, that Melbourne has been crowned the world’s most livable city for the seventh year in the Economist Intelligence Unit’s annual Liveability Index. If you're considering a trip Down Under, and want to see what all the fuss is about, read our Locals’ Guide on page 28.

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Globetrotter CheCk In

A life well travelled Each month, a seasoned explorer lays open their travel journal

Mel Wells The British-born nutritionist, body coach and author, who lives in Bali, shares her most memorable travel gems Last place you visited?

I took a trip to Lombok island in Indonesia for the first time, for my best friend’s 30th birthday. Situated east of Bali, it is a popular spot among holidaymakers from Bali and it’s easy to see why – it’s an untouched paradise. I love being immersed in nature and feel at home in the ocean, so being able to go diving and see the coral, fish and turtles was like a dream come true for me.

A beautiful Bali sunset

Anantara Layan Phuket Resort, Thailand

The grim weather made me want to sit at home and eat soup. When I returned to England after the retreat was over I cleared out my house and hopped on a flight back under a month later. It was the best decision ever. I have such peace of mind in Bali and get a lot more done.

Being in the sun is good for my soul.

Do you like to travel alone or with company?

I have a few very close friends who I can be around all the time but spending time alone is important. Travelling solo is very empowering – I have learnt a lot from it and have got to know myself on a deeper level.

Next trip on the horizon?

I’m heading to Anantara Layan Phuket Resort in Thailand in October to run The Goddess Sanctuary, a four-day wellness retreat offering a private haven to help women transform themselves and their relationship with food – the concept is based upon the principles of my book, The Goddess Revolution (hayhouse.com).

I visited in April and the destination is incredible. The resort itself is beautiful, with amazing views and lots of activities on offer, including stand-up paddle boarding. I'm hoping to explore a bit more when I return and would love to see elephants in the wild.

Trip that changed your life?

It has to be moving to Bali from the UK about a year ago. I’m originally from Solihull nearby Birmingham and visited Bali to host a four-day retreat and loved it.

The West Midlands weren’t really for me.

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How do you stay healthy and grounded while away?

I practise yoga and meditate by the beach while watching the sun set. I always listen to my body and allow myself to gently adjust to the time zone. It’s easy when you’re away to eat whatever you fancy when your body is out of whack, but it is important to eat food that’s kind to your body. Currently, I am having lots of vegetable curries made with coconut milk, as well as raw fruit.

Favourite city?

I love the electric vibe of New York but I can only take it in small bursts. After a few weeks I tend to get burnt out and exhausted from being in a concrete jungle. I can be in Los Angeles up to three months at a time. I feel more grounded and peaceful there and love venturing to Malibu and hiking in the hills.

Action-packed schedule or go with the flow?

A bit of both. I like staying busy, but not for the entire holiday. I favour a ‘one week on, one week off’ approach. In Bali there is a lot to do, such as diving, yoga, surfing, skydiving and water rafting, as well as getting up close to wildlife. To relax, I would need to be somewhere New York City

super luxurious, where I could get a spa treatment, enjoy delicious food and top up my tan on the beach.

What destination is on your must-visit list?

Costa Rica – especially in order to spend some time at a mediation retreat there called Rythmia Life Advancement Center.

The country itself looks like paradise and somewhere I can be at one with nature.

The Goddess Sanctuary with Mel Wells is taking place at Anantara Layan Phuket Resort, Thailand from 27 to 31 October.

To find out more, visit anantara.com.

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3

High Line, New York

ways to…

Seek sanctuary in the city

High Line, New York Elevate your holiday experience with a stroll through New York’s most unusual public garden. The 1.45-mile-long High Line park, which runs from the Meatpacking District to the fringes of trendy Chelsea, was built in 2009 atop an historic freight line on Manhattan’s West Side, and is a great place to catch a breather from the bustling city below.

Père Lachaise Cemetery, Paris The last resting place of a stellar line-up of renowned authors, singers, musicians and artists, this is both Paris’ largest park and cemetery. Wander at leisure along its tree-lined cobbled paths in search of Oscar Wilde’s lipstick moué-covered tomb, Edith Piaf’s flower-strewn grave, or to pay homage to Frédéric Chopin, Marcel Proust and Jim Morrison.

Royal Portuguese Reading Room, Rio de Janeiro Prepare to be stunned into silence as soon as you step inside this hidden gem in the heart of this crazy city. Rarely included on tourist itineraries, the library dates back to 1880 and the magnificent reading room is its centrepiece, with a soaring vaulted ceiling, wooden galleries and exquisite stained glass dome.

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InsIde scoop Expert advice for happy holidays

Rob Arrow, head of product at dnata has more than a decade’s experience in the luxury travel industry and loves nothing more than talking hotels and discovering destinations

Q

Now the children are back at school, how do we keep the holiday feeling going when we only have weekends to spare and without eating into our annual vacation fund?

A

Those of us in the GCC are spoilt for choice when it comes to affordable staycation options – great news if you are still recovering from shelling out for school fees. Whether you’re a beach or city fan, it will be easy to find something to suit your budget.

Currently, Oman is enjoying a renaissance.

The quality of the accommodation is at its best and a number of new hotels are opening – not just in Muscat, but in Jebel Akhdar and Salalah, too. If you fancy escaping the humid coastal weather, head to Alila Jabal Akhdar. This stunning Arabian style hamlet, nestled in the mountains, is around 2.5 hours’ drive from Muscat International Airport – and about 10-15°C cooler than UAE temperatures, too. It’s just perfect for a weekend away, offering modern facilities and a very relaxing spa.

In Muscat itself, The Chedi Muscat is a leading option. It has been around for a number of years, but with this comes experience and some of the highest standards across the Arabian Peninsula.

The staff are discreet and there are some great deals available until October. The beauty of choosing Muscat is you can now fly or drive there, which means you can pack more ‘down time’ into your weekend.

If you do want to jump aboard an aeroplane then it’s still affordable to visit Maldives and Seychelles before they enter into their busy period. You can enjoy some

22 World Traveller

amazing deals and savings at some of the most beautiful resorts. Currently, for instance, Shangri-La's Villingili Resort & Spa is offering a 30 percent discount on villas, with lots of fab goodies on top.

If you wish to stay closer to home, whether that’s in the UAE or in the wider GCC, there are some amazing deals being extended throughout September, including at Fairmont Fujairah Beach Resort, with its ultra trendy bar and pool area. Alternatively, check out the stunning The Oberoi Beach Resort Al Zorah, which will transport you a million miles away from bustling city life.

Q

My partner and I are looking for a holiday that's slightly off the beaten track at which to celebrate our first wedding anniversary. Where do you recommend?

A

Kathmandu, Nepal, is currently on the rise and there is so much to explore in the city. From admiring the Newari architecture to sampling the local fare, there is plenty to see and do.

Plus, it’s only a four-hour flight from the UAE. The city is really well connected and is great for friends, couples and families.

Even if you’re not keen to hike to Everest Base Camp, or any further, you can still enjoy a rich Nepal experience without having to spend a year in preparation.

There are some great places to enjoy in the city – I rate the Hotel Yak & Yeti, which is famous for its impressive art collections.

Maldives is good value at this time of year

Friends + travel = Fun

Grab your friends and enjoy a Spanish sojourn

As the busy travel season trails off and the kids head back to school, September is a peak time for holidaying with friends, says Rob. “If you’re heading off on a late summer break with your buddies, consider Greece and Spain, which still enjoy great weather,” advises Rob. “Many of the excellent beach clubs remain open until the end of the month. In Spain, Finca Cortesin is a stunning resort near Malaga that has a great spa and lots of private space to unwind in, as well as amazing cuisine.

“In Greece, you could try the stunning Mystique, a Luxury Collection Hotel, Santorini. Or, head to Cavo Tagoo in Mykonos, which is the ultimate hang out for friends, with all the space you need to chill."

Soak up the sights and aromas of Vietnam

On Our radar Grab your passport and head to these trending destinations… skopje, Macedonia.

Fun, friendly and great value, there is an amazing culinary scene in the capital Skopje. The local fare is a blend of Balkan and Mediterranean influences. It’s close to being like an extension of Greece and its islands.

Q A

I’m just about to enter into a busy season at work and wanted to escape to somewhere secluded where I can focus on looking after my wellbeing.

Any tips?

You can curate a fantastic itinerary that combines a dash of culture with spa experiences to nurture your body and mind. Look to Vietnam and Cambodia, which have a number of stunning resorts aimed at bettering your wellness on the coastal area near Da Nang. One of the best is The Four Seasons Resort Hoi An, which has a peaceful spa offering five- or seven-day programmes, as well as day packages, and features a stunning yoga pavilion.

Also worth considering is Kerala and Goa, where you can get a masterclass in Ayurveda, in a luxury setting. A bonus about travelling to India is that GCC nationals can get a visa on arrival. Alila Diwa Goa is a refreshingly unique resort, with stunning, endless views across the green fields. It has a lovely family feel to it and so the ambience works well for those that want to take their nearest and dearest along for the ride. For an authentic Indian experience with fantastic hospitality, Taj Exotica Goa, with its super slick service and pampering spa options, is amazing.

For inspiration for your next trip, step into a dnata travel centre, call +971 800 dnata, or visit dnatatravel.com

seoul, south Korea.

It has amazing shopping and fabulous hotels including the stylish new Four Seasons Hotel Seoul.

It’s brilliant for those who want to lay hands on some of the cult cosmetic products available there. lisbon, Portugal.

Great people, delicious food and a wonderful relaxed atmosphere.

It’s perfect for those who want to enjoy some culture and history in a chilled environment.

FOllOw the arrOw Photos courtesy of Rob Arrow

Rob takes us behind the scenes, with a selection of his favourite finds from his recent travels...

vietnaM It’s difficult not to feel calm and serene when standing in front of the stunning Tran Quoc Pagoda in Hanoi, Vietnam.

Maldives The St. Regis Maldives Vommuli Resort has a homely feel – not to mention incredible attention to detail. It's pure bliss!

duBai Check out the beautiful new rooms at Shangri-La Hotel, Dubai. This is a great hotel with fantastic nightlife and high service levels.

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C R E AT E SPECIAL MOMENTS WITH US.

DUBAI MARRIOTT HARBOUR HOTEL & SUITES KING SALMAN BIN ABDULAZIZ AL SAUD STREET DUBAI MARINA, PO BOX 66662, DUBAI, UAE T. 971.4.319.4000 | DUBAIMARRIOTTHARBOURHOTEL.COM Dubai Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites @marriottharbour

Standing tall in the heart of Dubai Marina, featuring incomparable panoramic views of the city, combine the best of all worlds with luxurious accommodation, three contemporary dining destinations and a blissful caravanserai-inspired, Saray Spa.

CheCk In Shop my city

shoP MY citY Heading to Fashion Week in September? These top tips from our guest style expert will ensure you make the most of the shopping experience Galeries Lafayette Paris Haussmann

Paris

Shopping in Paris is an experience all of its own. In addition to its famous department stores, Galeries Lafayette and Printemps, my shopping route includes, Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré, (where most of the high-end brands can be found), Boulevard Haussmann and St-Germaine. The latter has become one of my favourite areas, especially Rue de Renne where there are lots of small boutiques featuring both established and up-and-coming designers. I’m a fan of vintage style and one of my top stops while in Paris is Thanx God I'm a V.I.P. along Rue de Lancry.

New York

In New York, you need to shop smart, as you also need to save time for all the restaurants and shows you want to tick off the list. For everything under one roof, head to the famous department stores such as Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue. I’m a huge denim fan and I love getting lost in the contemporary sections of Bloomingdale’s and Macy’s,

as they have the widest selection across all price ranges. New York is also the best place to shop for contemporary brands such as Halston Heritage, For Love & Lemons and Free People.

LoNdoN

London is such a great city for shopping.

I can spend hours walking down Oxford Street and Old Bond Street taking in all the latest collections and getting inspired.

Even brands like Zara seem so much more attractive there. I tend to stick to my routine and know exactly where to go. I love the feel of Selfridges, Harvey Nichols and Liberty of London. I always pop into Topshop in Oxford Circus, Carnaby Street and Portobello Market on weekends for its one-of-a-kind items in the chic boutiques dotted around the area, as well as unbelievable vintage finds.

MiLaN

The city has such a versatile shopping landscape that it’s hard to narrow it down to its ‘best bits’. The collections differ to the rest of Europe and I tend to find a wider selection in stores such as Gucci and Valentino. The same goes for high-street brands, like Mango and Zara.

Check out Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, one of the world's oldest shopping malls that’s home to most brands. For designer deals, venturing to 10 Corso Como outlet, in Via Tazzoli 3, is more than worth it.

Valentino at Bloomingdale's Dubai

Halston Heritage

Dubai-based fashion designer Dina Zaki (dinazaki.com) draws on her jet setting experience to share her top tips for shopping the style capitals of the world

Halston Heritage

Diary Dates New York FashioN week 7-13 september, 2017 nyfw.com LoNdoN FashioN week 14-19 september, 2017 londonfashionweek.co.uk MiLaNo Moda doNNa 20-25 september, 2017 milanomodadonna.it Paris FashioN week 26 september to 3 october, 2017 fhcm.paris

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Dining CheCk In

Chef’s top tables

Join us on an expert-led culinary tour around the world as a chef in the know gives us his picks for eating out on a global scale Executive chef at JW Marriott Cairo, Paolo Verzini mastered his craft at La Tour d’Argent in Paris and The Savoy London and has been making culinary waves internationally ever since. Here, he shares his favourite dining moments.

ho ChI MINh Nam Gíao If you’re looking for somewhere popular among Vietnamese diners, this fits the bill. Tucked away down an alleyway behind Ho Chi Minh’s famous Ben Thanh Market, the restaurant fronts onto a traditional inner courtyard where the cooking is carried out right in front of you. The ambience is magical and the restaurant, which specialises in dishes from the city of Hue, is always packed. I had bánh tôm, which is a kind of crispy shell filled with Asian vegetables and fried egg. It was so delicious I ordered a second one.

FAVouriTE diSH? Bánh tôm with vegetables or seafood or the bánh bèo (steamed shrimp-filled rice flour cakes).

Bánh tôm, a traditional Vienamese fritter

oRVIeto Casa Vissani

MaNIla pia y Damaso

saNtIaGo De ChIle aqui esta Coco

I first dined at this two Michelin-star restaurant, outside the cathedral town of Orvieto, 30 years ago. Owned and run by Gianfranco Vissani, what he was doing in those days was considered rather daring – and this still rings true today. I remember being impressed with the way he paired dishes with unusual breads, such as a black ink soup with a saffron lobster bun.

The secret of his success is using Umbrian produce and constant re-invention.

FAVouriTE diSH: The menu is constantly in seasonal evolution, so try the tasting menu for an exceptional journey through chef Visanni’s creative mind.

Manila is a huge city with a wealth of great restaurants. One time I stumbled upon a street food restaurant – the name escapes me – that served the best chocolate soufflé I’ve ever tasted (I stole their ‘secret ingredient’ and still use it in my own soufflés). Pia y Damaso is known for its ‘subversive Filipino cuisine’ with traditional and colonial Spanish influences, plus it also serves an amazing dark diablo chocolate soufflé.

FAVouriTE diSH: Seared seafood with sticky black Ifugao rice and a cerveza mussel cream followed by a delicious chocolate soufflé, of course.

Simplicity is the key to the menu at this family-run seafood restaurant in downtown Santiago de Chile. I’ll never forget the crabmeat-stuffed giant cannelloni – fresh from the sea, the crab saw very little manipulation on the part of the chef with the natural jus from the crustacean as the sauce. In contrast, the restaurant is a riot of colour with red leather, dark natural wood, maritime objets d’art and an old fishing boat repurposed into a raw bar.

FAVouriTE diSH: Gratinated crabmeatfilled cannelloni and the signature fried conger eel médaillon ‘a lo pobre’.

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The locals’ guide to…

Melbourne

Hip, cultured and creative, Victoria’s state capital delivers a uniquely different experience around every street corner. We get the inside track

Melbourne is famous for its lanes, which are lined with restaurants and cafés

Cultural treats Navigating the labyrinth of Melbourne’s famous laneways is Fiona Sweetman’s passion, but she’s just as clued up on the city’s other hidden hot spots. hiddensecretstours.com What is the go-to neighbourhood right now?

South Melbourne still has a village feel with tree-lined streets, terraced houses and beautiful little parks like St Vincent Gardens. The South Melbourne Market is one of the city’s top spots – check out Georgie’s Harvest and pitstop for coffee on market Lane. Contemporary dance fans should head to the Phillip Adams BalletLab, which puts on amazing performances, while Sia on Coventry 28 World Traveller

Street is the place to go for handmade, Australian designer clothing.

City bus tour or alternative transport?

Melbourne is flat and, with a free tram system in the downtown area, it’s easy to get around. But the best way to see the city is on foot – especially if you want to wander through the tiny alleyways and lanes it's known for. This is where you’ll find colourful street art, emerging fashion designers and the latest openings not featured in your guidebook.

Where do Melburnians get their culture kicks?

Keep an eye out for Melbourne Symphony Orchestra’s Secret Symphony pop-up events. Promoted via Twitter, these free events are held in unexpected locations

and only announced the same morning.

A ticket to Friday Nights at the National Gallery of Victoria is always worth it, with art, bands and great food in an internationally acclaimed building. Head 10 kilometres out of town and you’ll find Abbotsford Convent – a wonderful mix of heritage and nature on the river with weekend markets and resident artists.

Where can we lose ourselves in the lanes?

Punch Lane in Little Bourke Street has been a go-to for modern Australian cuisine since 1995, but check out the cocktails at sister restaurant Juliet. For a touch of rooftop garden party decadence, Madame Brussels in Bourke Street is a quirky locale while Kisume on Flinders Lane is all dark brooding interiors with a cool bar.

CheCk In The locals’ guide

For local flavour Melbourne-based food blogger Lisa Holmen aims to taste as many cuisines as possible and has a weakness for good sweet treats and good coffee. lisaeatsworld.com, @lisaeatworld

Try a ‘Magic’ coffee – a double-shot flat white

What defines the local dining scene?

It is innovative, simmering with activity and often the home of groundbreaking food trends. We are obsessed with seasonality and local produce.

Melburnians also love informal dining and shared dishes.

Breakfast, lunch or dinner?

Brunch! It’s an institution. Forget scrambled eggs, you’re more likely to find a Nutella panacotta with nut butter banana sushi (Penta, Elsternwick) or zucchini, cauliflower and halloumi fritters with five-spiced duck breast (Street Talk Espresso, Armadale). One of my favourite spots is Ascot Food Store in Ascot Vale – it has the best doughnuts.

Where are the city’s hipsters currently hanging out?

Explore Melbourne’s famous laneway bars and rooftops in the Central Business District (CBD). Flinders Lane is one of the hottest foodie streets with the likes of Chin Chin, Cumulus, Supernormal and Lee Ho Fook. Outside of the centre, Smith and Gertrude Streets are the heart of culinary hipsterville.

Footscray is great for Vietnamese, while a degustation feast awaits at my personal favourite, Estelle by Scott Pickett in Northcote.

Any hidden after-dark gems?

There are plenty in the CBD, but take a local along as some of the best bars can take a while to find. Ask to see the ‘secret menu’ at hole-in-the-wall Pizza Pizza Pizza, where a black curtain opens up into a hidden world.

Where can we get a good cup of coffee?

It’s hard to get a bad coffee in Melbourne and true Melburnians will choose a ‘Magic’ – a double-shot flat white. Start your morning at Brother Baba Budan on Little Bourke Street, or at the standingroom-only Patricia Coffee Roasters.

Paint the town Adrian Doyle is the founder of Blender Studios and a pioneer of Melbourne’s street art movement. He takes visitors along an alternative visual path. melbournestreettours.com, @blenderstudios Tell us about the street art scene…

Back in 1998, along with fellow artists Pslam and Ha Ha, we began ‘colouring in’ the city. Much has changed since then and the largest art movement in Melbourne's history, street art has brought its own economy to the city.

Our intricate inner city laneways are the perfect location for street-based art.

Where to go?

Melbourne has some very progressive legal walls, plus pieces by the UK’s Banksy and France’s Blek le Rat and Space Invader. The best spots are Hosier Lane, AC DC Lane, Blender Lane and Lovelands. You can even pick up an official street art map from Melbourne Town Hall.

Which local artists should visitors look out for?

The Blender Crew, of course, plus Everfresh Crew and Awol Crew.

Best places to buy local art?

Off the Kerb and the Black Cat Gallery in Collingwood are both cuttingedge, urban and interesting. You can also book to view the ‘secret’ Blender Studios in Docklands, which isn’t usually open to the public.

A mural in Fitzroy

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10 times the fun A compact cultural heart and wealth of attractions all within easy reach make for an action-packed family day out in Sharjah

1 Al Noor Island

In the middle of Khalid Lagoon lies Al Noor Island. Cross the pedestrian bridge and enter a serene environment dedicated to nature, art and literature.

Kids will love the Butterfly House, which is home to around 500 exotic species, and the huge children’s playground, while the Literature Pavilion is the perfect hidey-hole at which to sequester oneself with a good book.

2

All aflutter at The Butterfly House at Al Noor Island

Sharjah Aquarium

Located at the tip of Al Khan Lagoon, Sharjah Aquarium is home to more than 250 species of marine life, including tropical fish, stingray, sharks and turtles.

Discover the network of underwater tunnels that offer a fascinating glimpse into the aquatic world. The on0n-site Sammach Café is a great spot for delicious, local seafood.

spectacular Sharjah Fountain, which shoots water 100 metres into the air.

5 Blue Souk

Back on the mainland, this iconic landmark, which is also known as the Central Souk, will be 40 years old next year. Admire the pretty blue tiling decorating its two main sections split into six buildings filled to the rafters with all manner of modern day essentials, sparkling gems, Arabic carpet purveyors, local handicrafts and antiques.

3 Al Qasba

A couple of minutes’ drive away, on Al Khan Corniche, the popular leisure and entertainment destination of Al Qasba wraps around a manmade canal flanked by restaurants and cafés. Take to the water on one of the eco-friendly electric water karts or stick to dry land at the kids’ fun zone.

The highlight of any visit is a 360-degree tour of the city from atop the 60-metrehigh Eye of the Emirates big wheel.

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Khalid Lagoon

A 10-minute taxi ride from Al Qasba is Khalid Lagoon. This huge body of water attracts perambulating

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6 Sharjah Heritage Area Colourful marine life at Sharjah Aquarium

families, joggers and cyclists, while the picturesque Al Majaz Waterfront, with its mini golf, toy train rides and mini splash park, is its entertainment heart. The lagoon’s crowing glory is the

Just five minutes farther along the Corniche the Sharjah Heritage Area harks back to a bygone era, offering visitors a snapshot of traditional 19th century village life. Alongside traditional windtower houses, the area features an interesting collection of museums including the Heritage Museum and Al Eslah School Museum with Sharjah Fort just around the corner.

Promotion

Al Majaz Waterfront

Admire the mesmerising Sharjah Fountain

7

Sharjah Science Museum

A 7.5km hop inland brings you to Sharjah Science Museum, where a raft of interactive activities hold equal appeal for kids and parents. There are four areas to explore: the Magic Show, Static Electricity Show, Physical Law Temperature Show and Space Show, with endless opportunities to have a go at weird and wonderful experiments.

8

It's easy to stay active in Sharjah

into three zones: mammals, reptiles and insects, plus a children’s farm, there’s also an active breeding programme and the centre aims to repopulate declining regional species.

Sharjah Planetarium

10 Natural History Museum

Closer to the city centre is Sharjah Planetarium. Part of the Sharjah Centre for Astronomy and Space Sciences, the dome-shaped room features an 18-metre hemisphere and stadium-style seating so even the youngest visitors are guaranteed a totally immersive experience during the hi-tech, cosmic show.

Conveniently located adjacent to the Arabian Wildlife Centre is the Natural History Museum. There's tons to see and do from the Geology Zone, which looks at how life on Earth began, to the Flora Hall where you can learn how honey is made and taste fresh dairy products from Sharjah Farm. It’s a guaranteed day of family fun.

9 Arabian Wildlife Centre

Slightly further out, 25 minutes by taxi, the Arabian Wildlife Centre is fantastic fun for all the family. Split

Climb aboard Eye of the Emirates at Al Qasba

To find out more, visit the website at sharjahmydestination.ae World Traveller 31

Promotion

Fantasy island Leave the hustle and bustle of the city far behind and discover escapist luxury at its finest at Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort

L

eaving Dubai’s bustling mainland and driving onto Palm Jumeirah, with it's holiday vibe, lends a strong sense that a stay at Anantara The Palm Dubai Resort will be something out of the ordinary. As you approach the resort, its distinctive Thai pagoda-style terracotta roofs peek their heads above the sentry line of palm trees as if to welcome you in. From the moment you set foot inside the cooling lobby, with its high vaulted ceiling, you’re most definitely on Thai time.

Meandering walkways, lush tropical landscaping and a network of clear blue lagoons wind their way through the resort, creating an air of serenity – a refreshing counter to Dubai’s warp-speed status.

The resort's signature one and two-bedroom Beach Pool Villas come with a private infinity pool and views of a golden stretch of perfectly manicured sand; but it's hard not to fall in love at first sight with a luxurious Over Water Villa. Suspended above the Arabian Gulf, the villas feature a glass viewing panel inset into the floor of the seafacing living rooms, and expansive wooden decks. For a moment, it's easy to forget that Dubai is a desert city.

Here, water is the ribbon that binds the resort’s exclusive facilities together from the 400-metre-long beach, tennis courts, gym, Tuk Tuk Kids’ Club and trio of lagoons to the stunning shoreline infinity pool looking out toward the Palm Jumeirah fronds. Add a nod to the resort’s Thai roots with floating market style boats a colourful sight on the lagoons, and brightly painted tuk-tuks to ferry guests between locations, and it’s the best of both worlds.

Another hallmark of the Anantara experience is its spa. Cocooned in its own private two-storey wing, this is a destination all of its own with 24 individual treatment rooms and five in-demand couples’ suites with a combination of Sterali steam baths, experience showers, ‘fountain of youth’ whirlpools and infinity solo pool baths alongside a dedicated Ayurveda suite, Thai massage and holistic experience room.

Ottoman design influences anchor the ambience in the opulent Turkish-styled hammam, which for any initiate into the world of spa indulgence promises a royal top-to-toe ritual. Thousands of years’ tradition is infused into two hours, delivered by expert therapists who will steam, scrub and cleanse your body to silken perfection.

Indulgence of another kind is found within the resort’s crosscontinental collection of dining opportunities. Bushman’s Australian Restaurant & Bar specialises in flame-grilled favourites with an Antipodean twist while Mai Bar is the perfect sundowner spot.

For an unforgettable experience, it’s a coin toss between Asian speciality restaurant, Mekong, with its eye-catching tiger wall mural and red and gold temple bell wall art setting high expectations for your culinary journey across the famed delta, and Anantara’s signature Dining by Design concept. Request a private tiki torch-lit table for two on the beach with a bespoke menu for a stand out supper.

Find out more at dubai-palm.anantara.com

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Deluxe Lagoon Access Room

Two-bedroom Beach Pool Villa

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10

sensational spa breaks

Want some 'wow' factor with your wellbeing? From idyllic island retreats to hip city spas, here are 10 of the best places to get pampered Words: Lara Brunt

1

waldSPA

The Alps, Austria Surrounded by mountains with the sound of birdsong and the smell of pine needles filling the air, waldSPA bills itself as Europe’s first forest spa. Here, you can try ‘forest bathing’ – a ritual somewhere between hiking and meditating that helps connects mind, body and Mother Nature – and enjoy massages in tranquil forest clearings.

"For the massage, we use a lotion with the active ingredients of more than 200 alpine herbs, which has a revitalising effect on the whole body and invigorates the skin," says owner Christoph Schmuck.

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There’s also a 25-metre-long swimming pool, five glass-fronted saunas and a whirlpool that's perfectly positioned for views over the majestic Leogang Rocky Mountains.

For him: Men’s Biz, a facial treatment using alpine herbs such as edelweiss and arnica to soothe stressed-out skin.

For her: Sweet enchantment, a full-body exfoliation with brown sugar and forest honey followed by a moisturising body wrap.

The details: Hotel Forsthofgut, forsthofgut.at

destinations spas

2

Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Landaa Giraavaru

Baa Atoll, The Maldives While the Maldives is awash with spas boasting over-water treatment pavilions and top-notch therapists, this holistic hideaway in the beautiful Baa Atoll specialises in Ayurveda, an ancient insideout approach to wellbeing. Personalised treatments are based on your dosha, or energy force, and may include chakra blessings, reconnection rituals and aerial yoga – all against a backdrop of tropical gardens and shimmering blue water.

“We live in a synthetic age, so it’s important for us to give our body a chance to heal holistically,” says spa director Sandie Johannessen. Modern spa science is not forgotten, with results-driven facials and non-invasive contouring treatments.

For him: Shiroabhyanga, a head massage with warmed coconut oil infused with Ayurvedic herbs.

For her: Om Supti Night Spa Ritual, an al fresco salt bath followed by a massage in a candlelit clearing in the jungle.

The details: Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Landaa Giraavaru, fourseasons.com

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3

Clinique La Prairie

Montreux, Switzerland Dreamily nestled between the snow-capped peaks of the Swiss Alps and Lake Geneva, Clinique La Prairie is one of the world’s most exclusive medi-spas. Founded 85 years ago, past guests are said to include Marlene Dietrich, Diana Ross and Mick Jagger. The space-age spa specialises in treatments, such as collagen-boosting facials using fine electrodes and body sculpting via patented radiofrequency technology. The new six-night Master Detox, meanwhile, combines genetic testing and a bespoke nutritional plan with rejuvenating spa treatments to kick-start a healthier lifestyle.

“A detox is the perfect way to rebalance your body’s homeostasis and stimulate your vitality,” says medical director Dr. Claudine Mathieu.

For him: Cellular Anti-Oxidant, a facial that harnesses the power of vitamins E and C to repair free radical damage and deeply moisturise.

For her: Body Redensifying, a combination of lymphatic drainage and micro needling to stimulate circulation and banish cellulite.

The details: Clinique La Prairie, laprairie.ch

4

Tierra Santa Healing House

Miami, USA This South American-inspired sanctuary in the achingly hip Faena Hotel boasts a spectacular jasmine-scented hammam, along with hi-tech facials from French brand Biologique Recherche.

The big talking point, however, are the cleansing, body-healing rituals developed by Mexican shaman Carlos Gomez.

“The two-hour services are about connecting clients to nature and to their own soul and mind,” says wellness director Vivianne Garcia-Tunon. The one-on-one treatments begin with a cleansing ritual that uses sound, vibration and copal incense to clear your headspace and purify your body. It may sound a bit out there, but keep an open mind and a soul-stirring spa experience awaits.

For him: Sacred Warrior, a muscle melting massage combined with warmed herbal poultices and lapis lazuli stones from Chile to release tension.

For her: Tree of Life Vibrations, a full-body massage involving Brazilian rose stones and meditative Nepalese singing bowls.

The details: Faena Hotel Miami Beach, faena.com

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5

destinations spas

Monart Spa

Wexford, Ireland Guests are encouraged to swan around in their robes all day long at this adults-only spa resort set in 100 acres of lush Irish countryside, 90 minutes south of Dublin. The broad range of treatments serve a variety purposes, from pampering to transformative, while the state-of-the-art thermal suite is the cornerstone of the spa experience.

“The heating and cooling facilities are designed to benefit circulation and to perspire all the toxins out of the system,” explains spa manager Amy Kenny. What’s more, from now until December, two Shaolin monks are in residence offering classes in the ancient Chinese practices of Qi-Gong, Tai Chi and meditation.

For him: Shaolin Warrior Massage, a fully clothed massage performed by a visiting monk with strong, firm movements.

For her: Dry Float, a 30-minute treatment that offers a feeling of complete weightlessness and is equivalent to two hours of deep sleep.

The details: Monart Spa, monart.ie

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The Dry Float treatment is equivalent to two hours of deep sleep

Anantara Spa

Jabal Akhdar, Oman Perched atop Oman’s famous ‘Green Mountain’, the setting alone is enough to refocus a frazzled mind. But it’s the signature treatments, using locally harvested ingredients like Damask rose and pomegranate, which has made Anantara a favourite with the region’s spa-going set.

“Guests are enveloped by a sense of Jabal Akhdar, thanks to the soothing, balancing and hydrating qualities of pink rose petals, and the revitalising and antioxidant properties of the luscious red seeds of pomegranates,” says assistant spa manager Gina Da Costa. Treatments are complemented by endorphin-releasing activities such as hiking and outdoor yoga, adding to your inner and outer glow.

For him: Green Mountain Escape, a hot stone massage with frankincense and olive oil that is a perfect post-hike pick-me-up.

For her: Rose Rescue Ritual, an aromatic experience that includes a hydrating facial, fullbody polish and calming massage.

The details: Anantara Al Jabal Al Akhdar Resort, anantara.com World Traveller 37

7

Spa Qualia

8

SHA Wellness Clinic

Alicante, Spain Tucked away on Spain’s sun-kissed southeasterly coast, SHA is a magnet for models and film stars such as Naomi Campbell and Gwyneth Paltrow. Many guests come for two-week programmes to lose weight, detox or de-stress through a combination of macrobiotic meals, natural therapies and conventional medicine.

“We wanted to develop a concept with a real fusion between Eastern and Western medicine under the same roof,” says vice-president Alejandro Bataller Pineda. Split over four levels, the cutting-edge spa offers everything from indulgent massages and detoxifying mud wraps to trending treatments such as cryotherapy and facial lifting acupuncture. Expect to leave here looking, and feeling, fabulous.

For him: Head to the Oxygen Bar, where you inhale pure O2 to stimulate circulation, reduce stress and boost collagen production.

For her: BDR (Beauty Defect Repair), a rejuvenating facial that uses micro-needles to reach the deeper layers of the skin.

The details: SHA Wellness Clinic, shawellnessclinic.com

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Hamilton Island, Australia ‘Qualia’ is Latin for a collection of deeper sensory experiences, and this superlative spa certainly lives up to its name. Set on a tropical island in the midst of the Great Barrier Reef, you can catch the soft sea breeze and take in the tranquil views, as wallabies nibble on the grass outside and the world-class therapists work their magic. Qualia’s spa menu is authentically Australian, with native ingredients like eucalyptus and treatments from high-end local brands Sodashi and Subtle Energies. Signature products are created with native herbs and oils such as Kangaroo Paw essence, Sturts Desert rose, Kakudu plum and Macadamia nut oil to take guests on a journey into complete relaxation. The air of calm at the exclusive island resort is further enhanced by the absence of children: guests must be aged 16 or over.

For him: Bularri Yarrul, 'warm stone' in the Kamilaroi language, is a full-body message using heated stones and indigenous oils.

For her: Kumali Ritual, a two-hour treat that includes an earthy body scrub and mud wrap, followed by a massage with aromatic poultice balls.

The details: Qualia, qualia.com.au

destinations spas

9

Mandarin Oriental Spa

Marrakech, Morocco Inspired by the architecture of Andalucía and the earthy hues of Marrakech, this sublime spa features six treatment rooms, all with their own private gardens or vitality baths. Sunlight streams through latticed mashrabiya screens around the indoor pool, while the scent of thousands of roses wafts in from the sprawling gardens.

“Each of the holistic treatments has been guided by our Oriental heritage yet influenced by our Moroccan surroundings,” says Malika Rojhani, director of spa and wellness. What really sets this spa apart, however, are the two heavenly hammams and posttreatment activities like belly dancing that will leave you glowing for days.

For him: Tangerine Delights, a two-hour hammam ritual involving steaming, scrubbing and massaging with tangerine-infused marocMaroc products.

For her: Caracal, a head-to-toe ritual that includes a hammam, oxygen facial and massage using orange blossom, lavender or rosemary essential oils.

The details: Mandarin Oriental Marrakech, mandarinoriental.com

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Santani Spa

Kandy, Sri Lanka On a former tea plantation in Sri Lanka’s green heartland, Santani is the country’s first destination spa, complete with hydrotherapy facilities. The tri-level spa’s stripped-back aesthetic is “designed to minimise external stimulation so guests can focus on slowing down their minds”, according to founder Vickum Nawagamuwage. Plump for a session in the cedar-wood sauna and take a dip in the thermal salt pool, then head down to one of four open-air treatment rooms overlooking terraced paddy fields.

The expert therapists offer Western treatments, including cleansing wraps and detoxifying scrubs, and a range of Ayurvedic therapies.

For him: Aromatherapy Relaxation Massage, a simple yet sensational treatment accompanied by the sounds of nature.

For her: Takradhara, a relaxing Ayurvedic treatment where medicated buttermilk is poured onto the forehead in a slow and steady stream.

The details: Santani Wellness Resort, santani.lk Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com World Traveller 39

Step inside Beijing is a vast, intimidating megalopolis, but regular visitor Ellen Himelfarb can get you inside the city – up close and personal

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destinations Beijing

Door to the Forbidden City, which houses the Palace Museum

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Beijing destinations

R

ight out of the airport the high-rises start flying past, a thousand Jenga towers of hanging laundry, hoisting the horizon up 30 storeys. As you splutter off the highway into morning traffic, lanes multiply, tail-lights pierce the infamous 'fog', and you're part of a giant pixelated red dragon inching towards the centre. The identikit towers yield to glossy skyscrapers, one like an egg, another a funnel. And then the driver fires a command, incomprehensible, ushering you out. You're on your own.

As a bucket-list trip, Beijing lacks the welcome of, say, Venice. Beijingers don't smile, nor move out of the way of your suitcase. But take it on the chin – it means you're being treated like anyone else. And the key to Beijing is to go for it. If a door's open, creep in.

If it's on the menu, point. You'll find this big foreboding megalopolis surprisingly inclusive.

Give Beijing a few days. You can see the vestiges of imperial China, dine like an old hand and have time to explore the hip backstreets.

The city's ancient imperial heart, built by the decree of Ming emperors six centuries ago, will test your feet, but you can get to grips with it in a day. First, a taxi – cheap, ubiquitous – to today's starting point, up north in Gulou, within the evocatively named 2nd Ring Road. Flag one by sticking out your arm, and flutter your hand as if you're shooing it away.

The Drum and Bell Towers are twin 15th-century bastions with ascending patterns of pagoda roof a few storeys apiece. Their role in dynastic Beijing was

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plain. Before clocks, musicians sounded beats and bells throughout the day, breaking time into two-hour portions. Stand in the surrounding piazzas, edged by trees and residential streets, and you're in the age of silk hanfu robes and 'Fu Manchu' moustaches.

Upon a thigh-testing climb, the Bell Tower reveals its seven-metre cloche. But the real spectacle? Views over the clay rooftops of old Beijing to the towers of the new. Out west are the bulb and needle of the Radio & TV Tower. East, the three mountainous humps of the surreal Wangjing SOHO complex by the late Zaha Hadid. The sprawl is endless. And the Drum Tower?

Just be sure to be here for the top of the hour, when ceremonial drummers attack the drums, propped like oversized grape casks – the urgency is like a call to war.

Thus begins your pilgrimage south. The towers exit into Di'anmen Outer Street, leading to a bridge built during the reign of Kublai Khan, the warmongering Mongol emperor who ruled China in the 13th century. Continue on to ersatz temples housing department stores and banquet halls, where parties pinch at platters of stir-fry.

The road splits to embrace imperial Jingshan Park, a scenic high ground built of soil excavated while digging the Forbidden City moat. It has leafy sycamores, a soundtrack of birdsong, and a swirl of secluded paths, leading you to the top of Prospect Hill. Here, greying men dip giant brushes in water, and paint characters on the pavement that disappear in the breeze. Take in this, the Beijing view, over the Forbidden City, your next stop.

The Forbidden City, home to imperial dynasties for more than 500 years

“See the vestiges of imperial China, dine like an old hand and have time to explore the hip backstreets�

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The modern face of Beijing

Beijing's nights are almost brighter than its days, thanks to the glare of neon

Six centuries ago the Ming emperors were considered God's envoys, and they hired a million labourers to build their heroic HQ. The Forbidden City (dpm.org.cn; photo ID required) has more security checks than an airport. You emerge from the cavernous gates into a forecourt so colossal that tour groups merely speckle the brickwork. The largest palaces line up for a kilometre, lacquered red gargoyles peering down, gilt lions standing sentry.

Queues form to climb the marble steps to peek in at dragon reliefs coiled around chandeliers.

Fanning outward are nearly 1,000 lesser villas, roofs upturned at the corners, like smiles. The English headset guides you around the historic avenues to each one, telling tales of burned-down throne rooms; harems of kidnapped women with feet bound to prevent escape; banquets of monkeybrain and camel-hump, tested by underlings for potential poison; eunuchs smuggling out jewels during the Japanese invasion of 1933.

A stream meanders within the walls, reaching the deepest fringes. Follow it to the Palace of Benevolent Tranquillity, where many an emperor spent his wedding night, then continue deeper.

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The red concubine villas around the western flank were frenetic in imperial times. Today, they're the least-visited houses – by afternoon most tourists will have drifted toward the exits.

Beijing's nights are almost brighter than its days, thanks to the glare of neon. It signals the shift from work to play – along with clouds of steam from a million pots. In every other window, roasted ducks hang like Christmas decorations. Served to nobility since the 1200s, Peking duck remains a Beijing staple.

Beyond duck, the city bubbles with complex flavours.

Untour (untourfoodtours.com) summonses you to the fringes of Gulou for a three-hour dinner extravaganza with all the unrecognisable meats and condiments you can handle. It begins in Ghost Street, named for the spectre of lanterns said to have lit the old night-market in the last centuries of dynastic Beijing. On balmy nights, seniors in singlets sit outside Qing-era faÇades sizzling with neon, as frying lamb and steaming jianbing (chilli-rubbed crêpes) wait to be devoured.

According to Untour, chefs themselves eat in the close lanes of corrugated-roof cottages called hutongs.

At fluoro-lit Lao Liu Hotpot, tureens of bubbling broth arrive, with paper-thin lamb, root veg and tofu to

destinations Beijing

pop in. Beijingers claim hotpot as their own – it was here that Mongolian invaders developed the dish as they besieged the city walls. But Beixinqiao belongs to a United Nations of Chinese. At a corner barbecue with a hairdryer to fan the flames, Uighurs from the Muslim Xinjiang province serve Halal mutton skewers dusted with cumin at plastic garden tables – the authenticity is in the chunks of fat interspersed with the meat. On the next block, Fifth Brother is virtually un-Googleable, yet it's busier than McDonald's as fans (here with their extended families) devour chicken wings rolled in Sichuan peppercorns.

Every neighbourhood here has a place for no-frills, no-nonsense, no-way-you-couldforget-it meals. Lunch is the perfect time to seek one out. Flutter your hand for a taxi, or dip into the warrens of the Metro to get closer.

Meanwhile, Chaoyang Park, on the eastern edge of the city, is an almost primeval landscape of lakes and pagodas. And amid a complex of mountain-shaped towers is the best dumpling house for miles. At mealtimes masses migrate to Baoyuan for platters of steamed dumplings, loosely

pinched around crunchy kung-pao (spicy) chicken, sweet yams and salt-and-pepper shrimp. Heads down, they sit in silence, dipping the dumplings in sweet vinegar and slurping them whole.

Behind every monument is a cluster of smaller hutongs, and you don't have to abandon the comfort zone of your guidebook to find them. Tourists swarm to Houhai, west of Gulou, formerly the emperor's pleasure gardens – but a few minutes' amble west is Luo'er Hutong, a street market where vendors squat over blankets heaped with spring onions.

The market leads to Huguosi, a lane where curlyeaved shops as decorative as pagodas each sell a version of Beijing's classic 'snacks' (just try leaving un-full). Huguo Temple Snack Bar is the most overwrought, with a bakery counter stocked to the ceiling, shelves labelled in Chinese, and queues three deep. Distinguish the glossy, sugared desserts from the stuffed savouries, train your eye on a cashier and point at what you want. Then, in the mess hall upstairs, devour your sweet-bean doughnuts, flaky macaroons and sesame buns stuffed with coriander and beef shavings: amazingly tender for a culture World Traveller 45

Bronzeware in the Panjiayuan Steamed dumplings at flea market forNight antiques Donghuamen Market

whose popular pastime really is chewing the fat.

If the big boulevards are the arteries of Beijing, the hutongs are the veins, reaching deep to access its most private moments. Of the 3,000 or so remaining, some are unpaved and unplumbed – and many are in danger of development, which makes them living artefacts. Zeroing in on the coolest corners is a daunting prospect, so eliminate the guesswork and start in Gulou, where multigenerational households mix with hipsters.

At breakfast time in Gulou's Cheniandian Hutong, grandmas shuffle in slippers to open-air kitchens for scallion omelettes and youtiao – twisted lengths of deep-fried dough. Peddlars make their first rounds under locust-tree canopies. Young professionals grab Brooklyn-style java to go. Quiet descends as you pass the colourful carved arch approaching the Temple of Confucius, a vast sprawl of lacquer-red halls and courtyards serene with scholarly contemplation.

You hear the echo of your footsteps as you trace 700 years of history around ancient standing stones.

Circling back to the centre of Gulou, zig-zag through the hutongs, past the Drum and Bell Towers to Houhai. Its serpentine lake has a classic oil-painting allure in the morning, all dozing anglers and families pedal-boating under willows. (By lunch, the restaurant terraces at the edge will have filled up, spoiling the mood. By dinner, they'll thump with Euro-pop and blink neon calls to party.) Still westwards, Shichahai has a window-washing, fence-painting weekend vibe. The taller, wider villas are vestiges from a time when the canals converged here and merchants flourished. Opposite a market of wood-caged birds, 46 World Traveller

secretive Houhai Park is the pensioners' de facto living room. One man dances a disco-calisthenics hybrid around a radio emitting tinny, atonal tunes.

Others hover over stone checkerboards tables.

Stick out your fluttering hand, taxi down to Dashilan, a ladder of hutongs below Tiananmen Square, and pull over at Liulichang, an old market street colonised by artisans when the emperors collected their now-priceless art. Decorative storefronts are fading and the merchandise, piled up on folding tables, is more minging than Ming.

But root around and you might net a cloisonné bracelet, a bronze teapot or a string of glass beads.

Where Liulichang ends, there's a strippeddown modernity to the buildings: bigger windows, more to look at. A sliver-thin art studio, a bookshop propping up design tomes in the window… This is where Beijing's young, creative can-dos ply their craft. In the buzziest streets, Dashilan West and Yangmeizhu, there's a subculture of galleries showing delicate ceramics; fashion boutiques with chic wood panelling.

The upside is that shops – and cafés – are as calm as temples, their assistants thrilled to see you. At Meeting Someone, tea is served beneath an installation of paper chits seemingly floating in the wind. In the cocktail lounge, strands of LED fibres rain from the ceiling. There are eight servers where one would do, flashing teeth, lingering to chat – all practising a new brand of Beijing warmth. You've found it. Now bask in it.

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com

destinations Beijing

Chairman Mao buttons

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Promotion

Floating along the backwaters of Kerala

Take me there Close your eyes and picture yourself... where? Lazing on a paradise beach? Awestruck by the Iguaรงu Falls? Tracking jaguars in the wild?

Now open your eyes and read on as we tell you how to turn those fantasy travels into reality

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destinations dream trips

SPICING IT UP IN INDIA Look no further for colour, chaos and life bursting at the seams. And prepare to make friends: there are 1.3 billion people in India – most will want to chat Dream-trip highlights: Sunset over the Taj Mahal; a rice-boat cruise on Kerala's inland backwaters past villages, paddy fields and coconut groves; the old Latin Quarter in Goa's capital. Ignore the hype about Mumbai's Gateway of India; the memorial is a hub for hustlers.

Hidden treasure: Most people tick off the Taj, but miss nearby Fatehpur Sikri (fatehpursikri.gov.in). Their loss, your gain: the 16th-century capital of the Mughal Empire is an elegant oasis of mosques, harems and palaces with no crowds.

The nitty-gritty: India is huge, bite off too much and you'll hate it. Shanti, shanti, as the rickshaw wallahs will tell you: chill! But not about immunisations (consult your doctor before you go) or hygiene (wash

your hands before eating, avoid tap water, salads and potentially re-used straws, and you should bypass Delhi belly).

So which bit to choose? Most people go to Rajasthan and with good reason: it's close to Delhi and the Taj Mahal, and has beautiful towns, such as Udaipur, Jaipur and Jodhpur, as well as tiger reserves, camel-trekking, and elegant hotels in old maharajahs' palaces.

For our money, though, the tropicallush south is a better first-time bet: less touristy, less hectic, it's a more authentic glimpse of an India still packed with temples and fascinating towns.

In Goa, dip into bustling Panaji, explore back lanes by moped (rentabike.in; insist on a good helmet) and unwind on the beach (south Goa is sleepier than the north, with Turtle Hill, near Canacona, a boutique favourite; turtlehill.eu). Take an overnight train to Kochi, an ancient spice port still whispering with the ghosts of Chinese and European traders past. Don't be tempted by the cheap first-class train

tickets; second-class A/C is comfy enough and much more sociable. Nearby Alappuzha (also known as Alleppey) is the jumping-off point for houseboat trips; allow two nights to sink into the dreamy rhythms, and bring bug spray. Spend a couple of nights in a lofty treehouse in the Wyanad Forest (vythiriresort.com), a cheaper, more relaxed safari destination than Rajasthan, with elephants, sloth bears and billions of birds. And squeeze in a cultural blast with a two-day tour to Hampi, the most spectacular temple complex in India; sunrise views from its central hill are worth the journey alone.

Iconic insight TAJ MAHAL Looking for that killer shot of the Taj? Skip the pre-dawn crowds around the main gates and take a taxi across the Yamuna River to the Mehtab Bagh, aka Moonlight Garden. The sun rises on your left, bathing the Taj in gorgeous light.

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The Adélie penguin is common to the Antarctic coast

MEETING PENGUINS FACE TO FACE Take the easy option: If you don't mind which species you see (there are 17, found at points south from the Galápagos Islands down to the howling Antarctic wastes), South Africa is the cheapest year-round option. Head to Simonstown, south of Cape Town, where Foxy Beach is home to 3,000 African penguins.

Travel in spring for kings: The classic, tuxedo-wearing penguin that everyone wants to see is the king, and to do that you need to get to Subantarctic islands such as the Falklands and South Sandwich groups.

The biggest gathering of birds occurs during the October-November mating season on the remote South Atlantic island of South Georgia. Land on Salisbury Plain beach and you'll encounter the staggering sight of up to 500,000 king penguins crowding the beach and muddy coastal plain like impatient toffs at a debutante's ball.

Put your plans on ice: Antarctic ice, that is.

For an as-you-dreamt-it sight of penguins 50 World Traveller

on the slippery stuff, you'll need to board a ship (usually at Punta Arenas, at the bottom of Chile) for the two-to three-day voyage to the White Continent.

You're guaranteed quality time with Adélie, chinstrap and gentoo penguins in October and November.

Iconic insight Remember small is beautiful: If you're heading for South Georgia or Antarctica, don't take a cruise ship: they're too big and most aren't built for icy seas. Choose a specialist naturalists' itinerary aboard a small, ice-proofed expedition vessel, which will get you into remoter spots and will have professional wildlife guides to lead your runs ashore.

Leave the zoom lens at home: Penguins are the easiest birds to photograph. You're supposed to maintain a 'respectful distance', but the birds, which clearly haven't read the rulebook, will quickly mob you, pecking at trousers and nosing around in rucksacks.

So you don't need a ton of glass to get the shot. You can get so close that even a smartphone will do.

ULURU Sunrise is your moment. Avoid the teeming Talinguru Nyakunytjaku viewing area and head to the Sunset and Dune Walk viewpoint to ogle Uluru in dramatic dawn silhouette.

Uluru (Ayers Rock)

destinations dream trips

TRACKING JAGUARS IN THE WILD Choose Brazil: Although jaguar habitat extends across an area of Latin America stretching from the Sonoran Desert in Mexico to Argentina's Iguaçu Falls, your best chance of spotting the world's third biggest feline lies in Brazil's Pantanal, a 194,000 sq km swathe of tropical wetland in Mato Grosso do Sul state.

Wait until dry season: To maximise your chances of seeing El Tigre, as he's known in these parts, you need to visit at the back end of dry season – between August and October. Not only are the temperatures and insects more bearable, but also the baias (lagoons) are drying up, thus concentrating the prey species and the big cat that eats them. Jaguars are crepuscular, meaning

they're most active at dawn and dusk, so be prepared to get up early.

Avoid Porto Jofre: Thanks to its guidebookled reputation as the launchpad for jaguarspotting tours, this northern Pantanal town is an overcrowded backpacker magnet; tours involve a full day on the river surrounded by other boats, often run by operations contributing little or nothing to conservation. Head south to the lodges around Miranda, which are more ethical and eco-conscious and, yes, more expensive.

Iconic insight THE GRAND CANYON Doing the Canyon by helicopter is a blast, but pin down what you want when you book. A chopper trip 'over' often means 'over a non-famous part'.

Better to go 'through' – most thrilling at the West Rim. Grand Canyon, Arizona

Stay on dry land: The Onçafari Jaguar Project is a conservation project run by Caiman Ecological Refuge (caiman.com.br) in the southern Pantanal. Its African-style safaris give you an unequalled opportunity to get near wild, but habituated, jaguars.

Dare to spot the Pantanal jaguar

Your best chance of spotting the world's third biggest feline lies in Brazil's Pantanal

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dream trips destinations

Expect a headswirling collision of technology and tradition 52 World Traveller

destinations dream trips

BLOWING YOUR MIND IN JAPAN Dream-trip highlights: Tokyo – visually still the spine-tingling epitome of a future city; Kyoto – Japan's cultural heart and keeper of its traditions; Osaka – the unrefined, food-loving antidote to templeheavy Kyoto.

Ignore the hype… about the 'floating' torii gate on Miyajima – it's little more than a photo opp. Combine it with an overnight stay on this sleepy island, or bypass it to spend longer in thriving nearby Hiroshima.

Hidden treasure: Semi-tropical Kyushu, for volcano hikes and cosmopolitan Nagasaki.

The nitty-gritty: Expect a head-swirling collision of technology and tradition. It's disorientating and tiring, so give yourself two weeks to soak it up. Thanks to the superb rail network, you can pack in loads: Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka; Hiroshima, with its Peace Memorial Park and Museum; and less urban spots in Kyushu, such as the beautiful Mount Aso area for hiking and onsen (hot springs). You can skip Hakone, unless you're into art (it has some great

museums). Most first-time visitors end up there for its onsen and views of Mount Fuji, but there are onsen countrywide, and you'll see Fuji-san from Tokyo on a clear day, or from the bullet train to Kyoto (travelling west, sit on the right).

Travel in spring or autumn: temperatures are comfortable and the parks and countryside are at their most photogenic. But dodge cherry-blossom season, from late March to late April, when flight prices spike and hotels are fully booked. (This isn't an issue during the autumn leaf-viewing season as it lasts longer – from late October to December – and sites are less concentrated.)

Get around by bullet train using a Japan Rail Pass: buy a seven-day pass before you leave or at a JR Ticket Office at selected stations in Japan. If your trip starts in Tokyo, don't waste your pass by validating it at the airport. Instead, activate it on leaving the capital, and before it runs out, you'll be able to cover the big distances to Hiroshima or Nagasaki and back to Kyoto or Osaka, with day trips to the samurai town of Kurashiki and Himeji Castle.

If you stick to the main tourist drag (ie, along the Tokaido-Sanyo bullet-train line), travelling independently is easy.

Pack antiperspirant (hard to find here) and cash, as foreign credit cards aren't always accepted and usable cash machines are hard to find (your best bet is a 7-Eleven store). Rent a pocket wi-fi (japan-railpass. com/services/pocket-wifi), not just for social media, but Google Maps: addresses are unfathomable, even for locals.

Iconic insight NORTHERN LIGHTS Head to Europe's aurora belt, just above the Arctic Circle – Iceland, northern Norway, Sweden and Finland. Go October to March, ideally on moonless nights.

Northern Lights

The bustling district of Shibuya in central Tokyo

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Huvadhoo atoll in Southern Maldives is a castaway-style destination

GIVING REAL LIFE THE SLIP IN THE INDIAN OCEAN Ignore the hype‌ about Mauritius. It's over-developed and can't top the Seychelles or Maldives for castaway-style romance (although it is fantastic for families).

Hidden treasure: Consider good-value Mozambique for a more thought-provoking take on Indian Ocean beaches. It has the white sands, plus sleepy Portuguese colonial towns, crowd-free safari reserves and responsible resorts that give back to the local community.

The nitty-gritty: Don't imagine the Seychelles and Maldives are interchangeable. Like the bone-white island dollops they inhabit, Maldivian resorts are pristine and perfect. Activities extend to dipping, dozing and diving. If you're intent on the latter, opt for a resort in the north, where neon fish scatter like confetti over shipwrecks and underwater caves. On the remote Baa Atoll, Soneva 54 World Traveller

Fushi still ticks all the boxes. More romantically shipwreck-chic than many of the region's hotels, it's large enough to prevent island fever and has good diving, plus star-spotting in its observatory (you can even see Saturn). Cheaper resorts can mean patchier service, so if this is your dream trip, it's worth saving up to do it properly.

The Seychelles are less manicured, more dramatic: wave-pummelled, boulder scattered beaches are backed by Jurassic looking forests populated by a rainbow of bird species. Service can be less slick, rooms more authentic (lots of bamboo and tiled floors). Unlike in the Maldives, you don't have to stay in-resort: most hotels are on the islands of MahĂŠ, La Digue, Silhouette and Praslin, alongside a scattering of restaurants on photo-perfect beaches, and independent diving and fishing-boat operators (try bigbluedivers.net and Gerry's private charters on 00 248 271 3839).

Iconic insight PYRAMIDS OF GIZA Arrive for 8am to dodge crowds (and the heat) and to nab tickets for the colossal Pyramid of Khufu's interior, strolling south beyond Menkaure's pyramid for the finest photos.

Pyramids of Giza

destinations dream trips

FEELING THE HEAT IN SOUTH AMERICA Dream-trip highlights: Spectacular Iguaçu Falls, surrounded by forest teeming with toucans; the jagged 6,000m-high peaks of Peru's Andes, their velvet-green ridges dripping with waterfalls; Brazil's Bahia – where rolling rainforest meets incredible beaches, whales bask offshore and you could walk for a week along strands of sand like flour.

Ignore the hype about… Uruguay's Punta del Este. In 'South America's St Tropez', the Carnival is celebrated across Brazil

sea's cold, the beach is backed by concrete towers and the resorts are over-priced.

Hidden treasure: Brazil's northeast; with reef-ringed Atlantic islands, and where cities celebrate the continent's biggest, brashest carnival.

The nitty-gritty: South America is huge. With two weeks, you've time for one country, so choose Brazil, for the continent's finest shores, waterfalls, wildlife and party spirit. If your heart's set on a carnival, remember that the whole

country celebrates it. In Rio it's a cash cow, so instead, do carnival in Recife-Olinda (in the beach-perfect northeast), where it's free and the dancing is in the streets. Then visit Rio between April and June when the skies are clear and prices are lower.

The best beaches aren't on the brochurehyped Green Coast, they're in Bahia, around the mini-resort of Trancoso (airport at Porto Seguro, fly from Rio).

While there, whale-watch and visit the secluded southern beaches including Espelho, the golden strand where Beyoncé lays her sarong.

The Amazon is astonishing (especially on the mozzie-free Rio Negro), but it's about the views (not animals) – oceanic rivers, forested horizons and, August to December, endless white-sand riverbeaches. For wildlife, fly to Cuiabá in the Pantanal, South America's Serengeti and the only place in the world where you can near guarantee seeing a jaguar, alongside caimans, parrots and giant otters. In Iguaçu, book the Belmond hotel (the only one inside the park), to see the waterfalls crowd-free, at sunset and under moonlight.

Still dreaming of Machu Picchu? Stretch beyond a fortnight and you've time to fly into the old Inca capital, Cuzco (driest April to October). Do nothing but acclimatise on the first day – you're a heart-racing 3,000m high. Then visit Machu Picchu by train (not the standard one; the glass-roofed Vistadome has better Andean views), or by foot on the Inca trail (trek numbers are limited so book ahead).

Iconic insight GREAT WALL OF CHINA Aim for October: the recently restored Jinshanling section outside Beijing is hauntingly quiet then — and warm. Leave the city before 7am to beat the traffic.

Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine

Great Wall of China

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Weekends There’s a loT you can do in jusT a few days

An Ottoman experience An important social meeting place where business deals were made, eligible spouses discussed, gossip shared and intrigue schemed, the Turkish hammam has been at the centre of local life for over 500 years. Today, while the ritual steam, scrub, soak and polish may be light on social scandal, it’s still an essential element in the wellness regimen. Istanbul is home to some of the country’s most historic bathhouses including the Çemberlitaş Hamami, which dates back to 1584, and the opulent Haseki Hürrem, opposite Hagia Sophia. The latest luxury addition to the hammam scene can be found within the marbled sanctuary of Afiya Spa at the newly opened Ajwa Hotel Sultanahmet, where an authentic Ottoman-inspired experience forms the leisure centerpiece of this stunning 61-room fully halal boutique hotel.

To find out more, visit ajwa.com.tr World Traveller 57

MINI BREAK Agonda beach

Your guide to: goA Fascinating history, Ayurvedic healing, waterfalls and a wealth of beaches combine to provide an enchanting getaway

T

hrow on some hiking boots, pack your swimwear and get ready for fun in the great outdoors in tropical Goa. September marks the tail end of monsoon season and many Goans believe this is when the destination is at its very best. Parties and celebrations are held to welcome the rains and the countryside transforms into a lush, green land. Sneak in ahead of the throngs of tourists and see Goa from a fresh perspective by trekking in the thundering waterfalls or escaping to a serene yoga retreat. If the rains do come, simply retire to a decadent five-star hotel to feast on some of the local cuisine. Read on for our edit of the best ways to experience this land of amazing contrasts‌

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Paddy field, Agonda

Goan chillies

weekendS Goa

Maruti Temple in Panjim

The thundering beauty of Dudhsagar Falls

lush land

Flanked by the arabian sea on the West and the sahyadri mountains to the East, the Goan landscape rises from sea level to 1,022 metres. several rivers crisscross the state, adding to its natural beauty.

GO EXPLORE Sweetest sun spot

Long stretches of white sand, blue waters and not a crowd in sight — welcome to Agonda beach. This three-kilometre-long stretch, nestled between Palolem and Panaji, is delightfully free from restaurants, souvenir stalls and thumping music.

The water can be a bit rough, so grab a prime shady spot for a nap under swaying palms.

#travelgoals Roam through grand Old Goa, which harkens back to the bygone era of Portuguese rule. Tourists flock here to see the historic cathedrals and numerous museums; visit early on a weekday morning to avoid the crowds.

Planter’s lunch

Goa’s many spice tours are tourist kitsch, but fun all the same. Tropical Spice Plantation provides an insight into plantation life followed by a Goan meal served on a banana leaf. There’s the option to buy local handicrafts, so bring small bills. USD6 including lunch, tropicalspiceplantation.com

More art gallery than exhibition, and located in the middle of an industrial estate; the three-storey Museum of Goa has more to offer inside than at face value. Check out an ever-evolving array of sculptures, artefacts detailing Goa’s history, paintings and installations. Pieces are chosen by the private museum’s owner, Subodh Kerkar – a mover and shaker on the art scene. Many pieces are for sale.

Entry costs USD1.5. museumofgoa.com

Capital injection

No trip to Goa is complete without a stroll through capital city Panjim (aka Panaji). Leave the tree-lined avenues for a vigorous uphill walk to Altinho. This posh residential area provides views over Mandovi River and Panjim’s colonial-era buildings, as well as sightseeing at the Bishop’s Palace. You won’t need hiking boots, but a sun hat and water come in handy.

Fall in love

With a thundering roar, Goa’s majestic Dudhsagar Falls cascade an awe-inspiring 1,017 feet. Its name translates as ‘sea of milk’ – a reference to its huge plumes of white foam. It’s a bit of a hike to reach it (even if you hire a Jeep and driver), but it’s worth it when you get there. Bring a swimsuit for an invigorating dip.

CULTURE TRIP Art and artefacts

Temple trek #travelgoals Goa has more than 50 species of animals, although most of them are deep in the forest.

Monkeys, however, are found all across Goa. The most common is the pinkbottomed macaque.

While Shantadurga Temple (shreeshantadurga. com) began as a mud shrine, today the popular spot boasts serene architecture, an outdoor pond, and a glimpse into Goa’s spiritual side. Expect a journey to get here, as Shantadurga is nestled at the foothills of Kavalem village. Make the most of the trip with a stop at Mangeshi Temple and Mahalasa Narayani Temple (mahalasa.org), both within an hour’s drive (free to visit, overnight accommodation available).

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MINI BREAK #travelgoals Do try the local cuisine, a wild mix of Indian and Portuguese, combining coconut, beef, cashews and an endless range of seafood. Order a bowl of fish curry accompanied by some warm, freshly cooked local bread.

EAT WELL Culinary crossroads

Goan and Portuguese cuisine collide to exquisite effect at The Beach House, a fine dining restaurant at Vivanta by Taj Holiday Village. Chandeliers and thatched roofs contrast for a romantic ambience.

Order the galinha cafreal for a twist on Goa’s traditional spicy chicken or ask for the catch of the day cooked at the live kitchen counter. Around USD40 for two, vivanta.tajhotels.com

Food that goes further

If you’re after a non-profit restaurant where the location is half the fun, head to Go With The Flow.

This Brazilian fusion venue, housed within the gardens of a restored Portuguese mansion, is nestled at the far end of the Baga riverbank. Here, plates of hearty meats are served with local ingredients. To dine at this charity-focused stop (profits go to the Samarpan Foundation), book in advance. Around USD50 for two, gowiththeflowgoa.com

Retro indulgence

Step off the beach and into the subtly lit colonialinspired interiors of Casa Sarita at the Park Hyatt Goa Resort and Spa. This upmarket Goan restaurant serves traditional food with nostalgic twists, like fish drizzled in coconut gravy. Bag a candlelit table outside for a dash of romance. When the meal is done, you can hop into the resort’s helicopter for a scenic tour.

Main courses from USD8, goa.park.hyatt.com

GET ACITVE White-knuckle ride

Feeling strong? Slather on the sunscreen and head to Goa’s Western Ghats for a wild, adrenaline-filled white water rafting trip. You’ll tear through 10km of white water with class two and three swells. The rafting is best enjoyed during monsoon season (end of June to September) when the river reaches peak power. From USD28 per person, gorafting.com

Sky-high adventure

Amazing 360-degree views with the lush Goan countryside rolling underneath, bursts of flame overhead — a visual pick and mix of treats awaits as you float over Goa in a hot air balloon. Head out in the morning to catch the first rays of sunrise before the afternoon heat sets in. The flight lasts around an hour and can get chilly. USD161 per person.

Shop like a local

Throngs of people pushing past, vendors hawking dried fish and old coins, the scent of cinnamon in the air — Mapusa’s Friday Market is gloriously chaotic.

Head here for a raucous morning of shoulder-toshoulder bartering with locals. When the crowds and scooters become too much, you can retreat into one of the many local restaurants for a traditional thali lunch (around USD1).

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#travelgoals Flag down one of Goa’s yellow-andblack autorickshaws for an authentically adventurous journey. These cheap, threewheeled vehicles are best for short rides without luggage.

Make sure you agree the fare before clambering inside.

weekendS Goa

Premium Villa Room with private plunge pool, Taj Exotica, Goa

BEach dazE

The most popular beaches are: arambol, Mandrem, Morjim, Vagator, anjuna, Baga, calangute, sinquerim, Miramar in the north and Majorda, Betalbatim, colva, Benaulim, Varca, cavelossim and Palolem in the south.

UNWIND THE MIND Chakra balancing

WHERE TO STAY Taj Exotica Goa

At the five-star seaside resort Taj Exotica Goa you can wander through flower-lined pathways and lush gardens, retreat to the airy atrium with a good book, or soak up the sun by the beach. tajhotels.com

The Leela Goa

Set in 75 acres of landscaped seclusion, The Leela Goa is surrounded by freshwater lagoons and offers luxury at every turn. Unwind at the beach or the Ayurveda spa and take a refreshing dip in a private plunge pool. theleela.com

The spa-meets-yoga programme at Alila Dewa Goa has been known to lure guests in for a monthlong detox. If you can’t afford that much holiday time, stop by this high-end resort for a 60-minute Shirodhara treatment. In an effort to relax the third eye, this treatment involves warm, medicated oil and continuous movement. USD66, alilahotels.com

Alila Diwa Goa

This eco-friendly hotel is wrapped in 12 acres of rich green paddy fields, creating a serene vibe with views so inspiring you’ll forget all about the beach. alilahotels.com

Holistic retreat

In need of a complete mind and body refresh? Check in to Devaaya Ayurveda and Nature Cure Centre on Diwar island. This isolated property offers massages, steam baths, Ayurvedic food, yoga and meditation, all alongside a healthy dose of relaxation and healing.

When not taking cooking lessons or talking to the on-site doctor, you’re free to stroll around manicured gardens. From USD100 per night, devaaya.com

Words: danae Mercer

Bend it like a pro

Ashiyana Yoga Resort Goa may be best known for its yoga teacher training but you won’t be shunned if you’re new to the art of asanas. Stay at this serene venue for a dose of self reflection served beside twicea-day yoga classes and buffet meals, or book a dropin yoga class. When acroyoga and inversions become too much, the beach is an eight-minute walk away.

The property is closed during Goa’s monsoon season but think about booking now for the months ahead. ashiyana-yoga-goa.com

#travelgoals Swap Goa’s mainland for Chorao Island. Accessible via ferryboat, you can spend a day decompressing from everyday life by strolling along winding roads past quaint houses and its chirping bird sanctuary.

The spa, Alila Diwa Goa

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Last-minute WEEKENDs

EvEryonE’s hEading to…

Beirut Art Fair

Whether you're an art enthusiast, or are simply seeking a break away with a difference, the Lebanese capital is calling

ON YOUR DOORSTEP Mleiha Fossil Rock Lodge Take a leaf out of Indiana Jones’ playbook at this upcoming luxury hideaway in Sharjah Eco tourism and archaeological heritage will soon have a new home in Sharjah with the boutique Mleiha Fossil Rock Lodge (shurooq.gov.ae) set to welcome its first overnight guests by the end of the year.

Located next to popular weekend day-tripper destination Fossil Rock, the lodge is housed in two singlestorey stone buildings dating back to the 1960’s that were previously a clinic and grocery store. Luxury has thankfully

Where: Beirut International Exhibition and Leisure Centre When: 21 to 24 September Why: Launched in 2010, Beirut Art Fair quickly emerged as an important event on the region’s art world calendar, offering galleries, collectors and leading talent a platform for discussion. This year, the fair is hosting works from approximately 59 galleries from around the world, featuring both established and up-and-coming artists. New for 2017 is Beirut Design Fair (running from 20 to 24 September), dedicated to collectible and limited edition furniture and design objects, with an impressive line-up of conferences and round-tables, workshops, installations and live performances to take in. Plus, as part of the overarching Beirut Art Week, visitors to the city can explore around 20 interactive installations, sculptures and performances strategically placed around its famous landmarks.

Don’t miss: The exhibition at the centre of the Art Fair: ‘Ourouba, The Eye of Lebanon’. Curated by London-based expert Rose Issa, the collection seeks to answer some of the cultural issues and questions that the region has been struggling with 62 World Traveller

in recent years as a result of the widespread political and social unrest, by celebrating life through art. Fans of the great poet and philosopher Khalil Gibran can’t miss the exhibition of the drawings and illustrations by the man himself, made for the first edition of his book The Prophet, displayed alongside artwork by Rachid Koraïchi for the most recent edition.

While you’re there: If, between the round-the-clock art and design consumption, you find you have some time to kill, head to Jeita Grotto for another type of art – the natural beauty of stalactites and stalagmites in two vast caves will take your breath away.

Especially the lower cave which is half filled with icy cold water, in which a guide with a small row boat will take you around for a truly spiritual, albeit slightly eerie, experience.

Where to stay: Le Gray Beirut (le-gray. hotels-beirut.com) is the official hotel partner for both Beirut Art Fair and Beirut Design Fair. Those who stay there can enjoy VIP passes to the fair as well as a regular shuttle service to the event.

To find out more about the event, visit beirutartfair.com

superseded convenience with the contemporary-designed 10-guest lodge, which is part of the all-new Sharjah Collection, also featuring an upscale restaurant and 430-squaremetre spa.

Nestled within Mleiha Archaeological and Eco-tourism Project, nature and adventure co-exist with guests able to enjoy a full menu of activities ranging from eco walks and nighttime stargazing to dune driving and desert safaris. Take the chance explore the area, which is rich with the fossils of shells and small sea creatures that graced the ocean floor millions of years ago.

weekends Abu dhabi

Make it a cultural month

Islamic insight headlines the September calendar at Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque with a unique exhibition tracing the history of Hajj Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque

Explore the story and history of Mecca and rituals of the annual Hajj pilgrimage through the eyes of the UAE’s founding father, the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, at a fascinating new exhibition entitled Hajj: Memories of a Journey.

A rich, engaging and unique insight into this spiritual pilgrimage, the exhibition charts the history and context of the Hajj and draws on inspiration from Sheikh Zayed’s own Hajj journey in 1979.

The landscaped grounds of Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque are the starting point for visitors to make their own personal journey through an extensive collection of locally and internationallysourced artefacts, historic photographs, multimedia displays and contemporary commissioned installations.

The curated material includes oral histories, and some of the earliest photographs and archival resources in existence, to illustrate the traditional routes and old paths taken by UAE and international pilgrims to Mecca, as well as to realistically depict the challenges they faced during their long travels.

Where: Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque grounds When: From 19 September Hajj: Memories of a Journey is organised by the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque Center under the patronage of HH Sheikh Mansour bin Zayed Al Nahyan, Deputy Prime Minister and Minister of Presidential Affairs, and in collaboration with Abu Dhabi Tourism & Culture Authority.

Silk fragment probably from the tomb of the Prophet,1600–1800, Ottoman Turkey, woven silk, Sharjah Museum of Islamic Civilisation

Delve deeper into Islamic history

One of the five fundamental pillars of Islam, the exhibition brings the significance of this holy journey to life and recounts the story of the early spread of Islam at various historical sites in the Arabian Peninsula, with a focus on highlighting the Islamic attributes of tolerance, equality and diversity.

Visitors will be able to learn about the historical progression of the arrival and adoption of Islam in Arabia, as well as view a collection of the Kaaba's coverings – known as kiswah – from different historical eras.

Those keen to expand the mind can also take part in an inspiring series of public programmes and educational workshops, along with the opportunity to learn about the experiences of Emirati pilgrims over the years.

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The family getaway F FAirmonT AjmAn

Travelling with young children in tow can be a challenge but a short break to Ajman provided Faye Bartle and her family with fun, pampering, and an elusive full night’s sleep Fairmont Ajman

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or parents of small children, waking up ‘naturally’ without the sound of an alarm clock blaring, or a rambunctious toddler bouncing into the room before sunrise, is the height of luxury. Indeed, to a woman of two young boys (aged three and 12 months), who has enjoyed a grand total of three uninterrupted night’s sleep in more than three-and-a-half years, it is almost unimaginable. But that’s exactly what happened during out first mini break as a family of four.

As I roused peacefully from my slumber, it took me a while to assess the situation.

The two wooden cots that had been thoughtfully placed either size of the King-sized bed were empty and my kids were enjoying the lion’s share of mattress space. I couldn’t blame them – it was the perfect example of a luxurious, hotel-style bed complete with fluffy duvet and cloudlike pillows that practically induce sleep.

Reaching for the clock, I did a double take when I saw the little hand pointing to eight – we’d all enjoyed a lay-in and I couldn't believe my luck. I was about to lay back and

weekendS Family

soak up the silence, when the boys started stirring and, just like that, I was back on ‘mummy duty’.

“Let’s go to the beach, please, mummy and daddy, please,” begged my threenager, as we drew the curtains and walked out onto the balcony to peer down at the swimming pools and beach. It was already heating up outside, but there was a lovely breeze in the air in Ajman and we resolved to take full advantage.

At the pool area, we herded the kids to our pre-booked private cabana – a spacious, comfy day bed with extra cushions and towels, overhead fan and bucket of chilled water. It was perfect for stashing our larger-than-average haul of essentials (toys, snacks, suncream, armbands, swimming nappies and the like) while we explored.

We spent a happy couple of hours splashing around in the pool, building sandcastles, collecting shells and dipping our toes in the surf, my husband and I quietly confident that the winning combination of fun in the sun would deliver two tired-out children later on. It must have been the reason why we’d all had such a great night’s sleep the night before. Indeed, our first staycation as a family of four had largely been a success and, for that, I breathed a sigh of relief.

As new parents will know, the prospect of going on holiday can sometimes seem like more hassle than it's worth.

Admittedly, it took us around two hours to pack for just one night away – the amount of stuff we needed to take was staggering.

But the 45-minute drive from Dubai to Fairmont Ajman was easy: far enough to feel like a change of scenery yet close enough that the kids didn't kick off and ruin the journey. What’s more, it actually felt like we’d taken a breather from our fast-paced routine. It helped that the hotel is well geared to families. The spacious 77-square-metre One-Bedroom Suites feature large bathtubs (perfect or dunking little siblings), a separate living area so you don’t feel on top of each other, and lots of welcoming touches, such as helium-filled balloons tied to the kids’ cots, generous sets of baby bath products and cuddly toys, a bowl of fruit for healthy snacking and a cool line-up of activities at the kids’ club (the Minion painting was a huge hit).

We experienced some challenges at mealtimes, with the littlest one staging a walk out over lunch at Italian restaurant

The kids' club

Kiyi Turkish restaurant

it actually felt like we’d taken a breather from our fast-paced routine - it helped that the hotel is well geared to families Gioia, meaning my expertly prepared sea bass went almost untouched. We got lucky over dinner at Kiyi, however, with the baby nodding off to sleep shortly after ordering and our toddler attempting to make friends with the children brandishing iPads in the majlis area, leaving us to enjoy our first sophisticated three-course meal for as long as we can remember. I highly recommend The Ottoman Experience, which presented us with a series of dishes, including tasty Turkish Pide and the chef’s

uch yed a tond mily enjo aa fa n r a e b h a c d Faye anury in a private lashing around of lux s by sp pools g t the kid tired ouin the swimmin

signature dish: Levrek Buglama (stew with wild sea bass, capers and baby potato).

My husband and I looked after the children in shifts so we could visit the spa

by Nine Degrees. This quiet, thoughtfully designed space has an opulent Turkish Hammam area, steam and sauna rooms and, for the brave, an invigorating ice shower. I opted for a 90-minute massage to knead away those little twinges from carrying my 14kg toddler around.

Having previously shied away from holidaying with the children, we were pleasantly surprised how easygoing the whole experience was. Weeks later, my three-year-old is still talking about it and it has given us the confidence to realise that travelling with kids in tow is an adventure worth embracing.

To find out more, call +971 6 701 5757 or visit fairmont.com World Traveller 65

Staycations WEEKENDS

Nikki Beach Resort & Spa Dubai Enjoy a stylish stay in absolute serenity at Dubai's coolest beachside address

The ultimate in beach chic, Nikki Beach Resort & Spa Dubai is set aside the sparkling waters of the Arabian Gulf, on a welcoming stretch of powder-soft sand. Its cool, all-white faÇade makes for a modern, relaxed and sophisticated vibe inside and an almost seamless transition from outside to in. This is pared-down luxury at its best.

The rooms You can choose which view to wake up to – that of Dubai's dramatic skyline or the calming waters of the Arabian Gulf – in characteristically chic accommodation that ranges from rooms to suites to villas.

The three-bedroom Ultimate Beach Villa is well named, with a private chef and in-house host among myriad amenities it grants its guests.

The resTauranTs Opening this month is the muchanticipated Key West Bar & Grill, designed 66 World Traveller

to capture the feel of Florida's sun-soaked, Latin-influenced resort town. Locallygrown ingredients are used here to flavour fresh-from-the-ocean fish and tender meats, cooked in the Josper grill.

Come here early for sundowners before enjoying a laidback meal al fresco, with the cooling sea breeze wafting through.

The faciliTies Sun seekers will be pleased to learn that The Beach Club is opening its doors on 1 September. It is the perfect place to go for high-energy vibes and is the perfect complement to the just-launched Nikki Spa, which has already earned a reputation as one of the city's go-to spots to relax in style. There are seven separate spa suites for men and women, and one devoted to couples. Mirroring the overall design ethos of the resort, special attention is given to both the indoors and outdoors. The spa's standout facilities include a hammam chamber,

sauna, steam room, ice fountain, and mixed vitality pool, while a must-have treatment is the two-hour 'restore’, which sees nourishing ESPA creams and oils gently massaged into your skin to restore is radiance. It's the perfect follow up to a day spent lazing in the sun. nearby aTTracTions 1. The bright lights and big attractions (Burj Khalifa, The Dubai Fountain, The Dubai Mall) of Downtown Dubai are the briefest of taxi rides away.

2. Closer still are the unique al fresco shopping districts of City Walk and BOXPARK, which come alive at night.

3. Be sure to make use of the resort's private beach and the ample opportunities to enjoy non-motorised watersports.

Surfboards, paddleboards and kayaks can all be rented.

To find out more, call + +971 4 376 6000 or visit nikkibeachhotels.com/dubai

YOU SHOULD BE HERE.

Contemporary style beachfront resort designed for those who set the trend. Those who are creatively distinct and alive with passion. Featuring 132 luxurious hotel rooms, suites and private villas, 5 restaurants and lounges, a worldrenowned Beach Club and 450-metre private beach.

The serene resort experience is further enhanced with beachside pampering, live DJ music at the resort pool every Monday and Friday, spa days and water sport facilities.

NIKKIBEACHHOTELS.COM

NBRSDUBAI

NIKKIBEACHHOTELDUBAI

For information please contact 24seven.dubai@nikkibeachhotels.com

Staycations WEEKENDS

Gloria Hotel This popular property is a firm favourite among families thanks to its spacious suites and convenient location

Situated at the heart of bustling ‘new’ Dubai, this 41-storey hotel is especially great for families, with plenty of activities to keep children of all ages entertained.

Seven (alcohol-free) dining outlets, hitech health and fitness facilities and a fun kids’ club are among the highlights that make this property a top choice for parents seeking a fuss-free break.

The rooms There are 920 suites and apartments available, ranging from the 58-squaremetre Deluxe Suite City View to the Two Bedroom Sea View Apartment and the Grand Executive Sea View Suite (both clocking in at 102 square metres).

Luxuriously spacious, the suites offer living areas, in addition to bedrooms, so the whole gang can feel at home.

The resTauranTs La Terrasse, the hotel’s all-day-dining venue offers an à la carte menu and 68 World Traveller

international buffet throughout the day.

For regional flavour, check out the tent, which has a live barbecue station, along with a tempting selection of Arabic dishes and shisha. A similar vibe can be enjoyed at Qutoof Lebanese restaurant on the ground floor, although it’s best to reserve a table in advance.

Even the fussiest eaters will find something to tuck into at Noodle House, which offers tasty Asian fare. For a quick bite, Le Grand Café is your best shot for a coffee and a sandwich. Alternatively, head to the Pool Bar and Sky Lounge for snacks and drinks.

The faciliTies Factor in some ‘me’ time thanks to the Children’s Club, which keeps little ones on their toes with a stellar lineup of activities, including a nursery for younger ones, plus an outdoor, shaded play area and swimming pool. Take the chance to schedule in some pampering at

Dreamworks Spa. The Dreamworks Short Vacation package offers 150 minutes of bliss, incorporating full body exfoliation, a relaxing massage and purifying facial. nearby aTTracTions 1. Head to Palm Jumeirah, and take a stroll along The Boardwalk, an 11-kilometre-long walkway along the outer crescent lined with gourmet food trucks.

2. A five-minute taxi ride from the hotel, Mall of the Emirates is bursting with shops and entertainment, including indoor ski resort, Ski Dubai, a climbing wall, a 14-screen cinema and a theatre.

3. Keen golfers will be pleased to learn that Dubai has a number of world-class courses to tick of the list. One of which is the nearby Emirates Golf Club, where you can test your skills at the championship, 18-hole Majlis and Faldo courses.

To find out more, call +971 4 399 6666 or visit gloriahoteldubai.com

P.O. BOX: 502222 | Dubai Internet City | Sheikh Zayed Road | Dubai | UAE T: +971 4 399 6666 / 800-GLORIA (456742) info@gloriahotelsdubai.com www.gloria-hotels.com

Staycations WEEKENDS

The Regency Hotel Kuwait Close to the city’s cultural highlights and home to an exclusive ladies-only beach club, this luxurious property is ideal for a mini break

With a design inspired by a neoclassical palace, stepping into The Regency transports you to a more luxurious world where pampering, fine dining and culture combine.

The property, which features 203 guestrooms and suites, is a hotspot for those with an eye for style. Each and every piece of furniture has been carefully selected, from the wall décor to the fabrics and accessories, to create a classic European vibe and the special touches don’t end there. The grounds are well manicured, the facilities are top notch and the dining options are diverse. It comes as no surprise then that it’s often the venue of choice for lavish weddings and events.

The rooms All the guestrooms and suites designed in an opulent style – think rich fabrics, dark-wood furniture and careful attention to detail – and feature luxurious marble bathrooms with a walk-in rain shower.

For families, the Two Bedroom Family Suite is a great choice, with plenty of space 70 World Traveller

to spread out in and a cosy sitting area.

Plump for one of the larger suites to enjoy sea views and a spacious living area.

The resTauranTs There are four dining venues at the hotel. All-day-dining restaurant Silk Road boasts an extensive buffet and live cooking stations whereas Balsamico restaurant specialises in authentic Italian fare, enhanced by Mediterranean style décor, such as floor-to-ceiling paintings of dreamy landscapes. Al Liwan Lobby Lounge, a romantic indoor garden, is ideal for afternoon tea while the adjacent Regency Gourmet is the place to go for homemade cakes, pastries and handcrafted chocolate pralines.

The faciliTies Soak up the sunshine along the hotel’s private beach, or splash out and have some fun at the five swimming pools (including a lap pool, infinity pool, children’s pools and waterfall plunge pool) that are situated amid the stunning

greenery of the grounds. Women can enjoy the dedicated Ladies Lounge, which has a private swimming pool, plunge pool, stretch of sandy beach and a luxurious beach lounge. Gym facilities are open around the clock, with separate facilities for women and men and personal trainers on hand to help you reach your goals. nearby aTTracTions 1. The Scientific Centre in Kuwait (KSC) in Salmiya has plenty to discover, including an entertaining aquarium, as well as a number of interactive exhibits, and a traditional dhow harbour.

2. The House of Mirrors is an artwork in itself. It belongs to a creative couple (an Italian sculptor and Kuwaiti artist) who have decorated their entire house in 75 tons of broken glass. As the family still reside there, booking is essential.

3. Located in Omariya, Kuwait Zoo houses almost 1,800 animal species, including lions, bears, chimpanzees and vultures.

To find out more, call +956 2576 6666 or visit theregencykuwait.com

Staycations WEEKENDS

Jabal Omar Hyatt Regency Makkah Just a minute’s walk from Al-Masjid Al-Haram and with easy access to King Fahad gate, this elegant hotel blends comfort and convenience for a meaningful stay Featuring minimalist, stylish décor and thoughtfully designed with the needs of religious travellers in mind – the rooms provide the perfect base for your trip.

The resTauranTs Al Forno is a trattoria-style restaurant offering authentic Italian cuisine cooked in a wood-fired oven for lunch and dinner. Alternatively, all-day-dining venue Oasis offers a sumptuous buffet while Al Tekkaya is ideal for a quick bite thanks to its grab-and-go concept. The Tea Lounge is open 24 hours a day, serving hot drinks, cakes and other delights, with stunning views toward the Grand Mosque.

The faciliTies If you're keen to keep on top of work while here, you can do so at the Business Services area (it offers full secretarial services). The hotel also has dedicated prayer areas for men and for women, separate fitness centres and, for female guests, a host of amenities for a comfortable stay.

Nestled in the heart of the spiritual homeland of Islam, the luxurious Jabal Omar Hyatt Regency Makkah has an unbeatably convenient location, in close proximity to all of the major religious and cultural sites of the holy city – just a oneminute walk to Al-Masjid Al-Haram. When inside the hotel, its line up of impressive facilities and services will cater to your individual needs, whether you're keen to hit the gym or simply enjoy a leisurely stroll through the shopping gallery 72 World Traveller

that’s located on the hotel's podium level. Whatever you need to make your stay complete, it’s on your doorstep.

The rooms Arranged over 19 floors, the property’s 656 guestrooms and suites range in size and include the elegant 38-squaremetre King Room and the 76-squaremetre Regency Suite. For an inspiring view, request a room that offers partial Haram view (the Grand Mosque).

nearby aTTracTions 1. Discover the famous landmark Jabal Al Nour (the Mountain of Light) and Hira Cave, situated just 11 kilometres from the hotel. Go in the evening for spectacular views of the city and the Grand Mosque below.

2. The Kiswa (Kaaba Cover) Factory is well worth a visit to see first-hand, how the Kiswah (the fabric that drapes the Kabah) is made. You may need permission to enter so ask the hotel to arrange a trip for you.

3. Explore the cultural and historical depth of Saudi Arabia at Makkah Museum, located at Al-Zahir Palace.

It contains artefacts and photographs describing the evolution of the country's two great mosques: Al-Masjid alHaram and Al-Masjid an-Nabawi.

To find out more, call +966 12 577 1234 or visit jabalomarmakkah.regency.hyatt.com

SECRET STAYS

TO UNLOCK YOUR SECRET STAY CALL

+971 4 3898 999

SECRET STAYS are deals that are so good, we have to keep the hotel name a secret until after you’ve booked!

We will tell you the star-rating, where the hotel is located, and what’s included in the deal.

Secret Stays are only available to book on Sunday and Monday – if you miss out, you’ll have to wait until the next Sunday for the new Secret Stays to be released! to be the first to see our Secret Follow us on Stay deals each week.

Look online at dnatatravel.com, call +971 4 3898 999, or visit your nearest dnata Travel outlet.

READER OFFERS exclusive deals to get you packing

This month's raft of great offers includes the Four Seasons Resort Maldives at Landaa Giraavaru

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4 HOt HOtelS tHIS mOntH 1

england

The Marylebone london

3 nights starting from USd 1,455 per person

Includes: Stay in a Luxury Suite with breakfast daily.

Offer: 30% discount on room rate.

Validity: Now until 31 Oct 2017.

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The bilTMore

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hoTel Tbilisi

Giraavaru

Includes: Stay in a Stay in a Junior Suite with breakfast daily and return airport transfers.

Offer: 10% discount on room rate Validity: Now until 31 Dec 2017.

Includes: Stay Stay in a Beach Bungalow with private pool, with breakfast daily and return seaplane transfers.

Offer: 25% discount on room rate.

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3 nights starting from USd654 per person

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maldIVeS

Four seasons resorT Maldives aT landaa

3 nights starting from USd2,450 per person

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Maia luxury resorT & spa

5 nights starting from USd4,450 per person

Includes: Stay in an Ocean Panoramic Villa on an all inclusive basis including premium beverages, unlimited scuba diving and airport transfers.

Offer: Stay 4 nights and receive 1 extra night free plus one MAIA Signature Massage per adult.

Validity: Now until 31 Oct 2017.

dnata offers

Maldives

The Residence Maldives

4 nights starting from Usd1,225 per person

includes: Stay in a Water villa with breakfast daily.

Offer: 50% discount on room rate; return domestic flight and speedboat transfers; 1 child aged under 11 stays and eats for free. validity: Now until 21 Dec 2017.

Book by 30 Sep.

thailand

Banyan TRee phukeT

4 nights starting from Usd765 per person

includes: Stay in a Banyan Pool Villa with breakfast daily, one round trip shuttle service to Patong and return airport transfers.

Offer: 15% discount on room rate, 35% discount on golf green fees and 2 children aged under 12 stay free.

Validity: Now until 30 Sep 2017.

indOnesia

FouR seasons ResoRT Bali aT JiMBaRan Bay

4 nights starting from Usd1,495 per person

includes: Stay in a Garden Villa with Pool with breakfast daily and return airport transfers.

Offer: Stay 3 nights and receive an additional night free. validity: Now until 30 Sep 2017.

Malaysia

shangRi-la's Rasa sayang ResoRT & spa

4 nights starting from Usd265 per person

includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers.

Offer: 35% discount on room rate, free access to Adventure Zone for 2 children aged under 12 and 1 child aged under 12 stays free. validity: Now until 30 Sep 2017.

Four Seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bay

tUrkey

gRand hyaTT isTanBul

3 nights starting from Usd340 per person

includes: Stay in a Standard room with breakfast daily and return airport transfers.

Offer: 20% discount on room rate. validity: Now until 31 Oct 2017.

Usa

hyaTT Regency hunTingTon Beach ResoRT & spa

3 nights starting from Usd335 per person

Shangri-La's Rasa Sayang Resort & Spa

Hyatt Regency Huntington Beach Resort & Spa

includes: Stay in a Partial Ocean View room.

Offer: 20% discount on room rate. validity: 19 Nov 2017 to 6 Jan 2018.

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shangRi-la's le TouessRok ResoRT & spaÂ

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Grand Hyatt, Amman

Shangri-La's Le Touessrok Resort & SpaÂ

includes: Stay in a Deluxe Ocean View Room with breakfast daily, one complimentary round of golf per person per day and return airport transfers.

Offer: 30% discount on room rate and 1 child aged under 12 stays free. validity: Now until 30 Sep 2017.

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World Traveller 77

Something for the weekend To book any of these offers, or to find out more, call +971 4 316 6666, step into a dnata outlet or visit dnatatravel.com 1

Photographs: 1. Grand Hyatt Dubai; 2. Kempinski Hotel Ajman; 3. Sheraton Dubai Creek Hotel and Towers; 4. Atana Khasab; 5. FIVE Palm Jumeirah; 6. Four Seasons Hotel Abu Dhabi at Al Maryah Island; 7. Al Waha, Shangri-La's Barr Al Jissah Resort and Spa

Uae

Five palM JuMeiRah

1 night starting from Usd105 per person

includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast. special offer: 20% discount on room rate and 1 child aged under 12 stays and eats free. validity: Now until 30 Sep 2017 FouR seasons hoTel aBu dhaBi aT al MaRyah island

1 night starting from Usd97 per person

includes: Stay in Superior Room with breakfast. special offer: 30% discount on room rate, guaranteed upgrade to Deluxe Room, 20% discount on 78 World Traveller

selected spa treatments and early check in/late check out. validity: Now until 14 Oct 2017 gRand hyaTT duBai

1 night starting from Usd68 per person

special offer: 45% discount on room rate and complimentary upgrade to half board.

Validity: Now until 30 Sep 2017 sheRaTon duBai cReek hoTel and ToweRs

includes: Stay in Club Creek Room with breakfast. special offer: Complimentary access to the Grand Club Lounge, 25% discount on spa, 20% discount on F&B, 2 children aged under 12 stay free, late check out. validity: Now until 30 Sep 2017.

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keMpinski hoTel aJMan

al waha, shangRi-la's BaRR al Jissah ResoRT and spa

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includes: Stay in a Deluxe City View Room with breakfast. special offer: Special summer rates. validity: Now until 30 Sep 2017

OMan

2 nights starting from Usd165 per person

includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast. special offer: 20% discount on room rate. validity: Now until 30 Sep 2017 aTana khasaB

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includes: Stay in a Superior Room with breakfast. special offer: 15% discount on room rate, complimentary upgrade to next available room category, early check in and late check out. validity: Until 30 September 2017. dnatatravel.com

dnata offers

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How to book

By calling dnata on +971 4 316 6666

By visiting a dnata outlet or logging on to dnatatravel.com

On the website you can also sign up to the dnata newsletter and receive more offers direct to your inbox. T&Cs apply.

World Traveller 79

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Explore the highlights of Portugal with this seven-day trip that stretches from vibrant Lisbon to charming Porto. In Lisbon, fully immerse yourself into the rich Portuguese culture, and learn about the history and lifestyle of the nation through its most important monuments, fascinating neighbourhoods, moving music and excellent gastronomy. Just northeast in Sintra, visit the fairytale-like town and its palaces before moving on to the coast. After a train ride north, you can enjoy Porto in three different ways: on foot, by boat and by sidecar. This trip is your perfect introduction to the jewel of the Atlantic.

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HigHligHts

• In traditional and inventive petiscos, the Portuguese cousin of the Spanish tapas, with your local host who will show you the ins and outs of the Lisbon lifestyle.

• Experience the soul of Portugal with an authentic fado performance, the dark song of the country that Indulge reveals the secrets of its past.

• Spend the day like royalty on a private guided tour through the lush hills of Sintra, including stops at the world-renowned Palacio da Pena and the upscale beach retreats of Estoril and Cascais.

• Get to know the highlights of the northern gem of Porto with a private walking tour

through the historical quarter, and see the modern part of the city on your exhilarating tour via sidecar.

• Enjoy a traditional Portuguese dinner as you cruise down the Douro River from Porto on your private boat, taking in the glittering lights of the city and the stunning scenery of the valley.

Inspired to travel Virtuoso style? To book this trip or see what other exclusive journeys await, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com

Jordan Experience

Best of Greece

Prague Vienna & Budapest

German Christmas Markets

5 Days From US$ 1150

8 Days From US$ 1495

10 Days From US$ 1525

8 Days From US$ 1550

Christmas Markets of Austria Germany & Switzerland

Spanish Wonder

Festive St. Petersburg & Moscow

Northern Lights of Iceland incl. The Blue Lagoon

8 Days From US$ 1595

9 Days From US$ 1595

7 Days From US$ 1675

6 Days From US$ 2350

• Accommodation in 4 and 5 star hotels • Exclusive Insider Experience including Be My Guest experience • Must-see sights included, with a choice of optional experiences • Breakfast daily and an average of 50% of your evening meals • VIP access and queue jump to selected sights • Luxury air-conditioned coach transport • Services of a travel director • Airport transfers in select cities • Porterage, tips and local charges.

Email us at contactcentre@dnata.com • Call +971 4 316 6666

Promotion

The haight of good taste The storied Scarlet Huntington Hotel is the perfect base from which to explore San Francisco The streets of San Francisco are among the world’s most famous. Haight-Ashbury, the birthplace of America’s counter culture during the Summer of Love; Lombard Street, the one-way, higgledypiggledy road which forces drivers to make eight hairpin turns at a maximum speed of 5mph; the countless steep streets leading down to Fisherman’s Wharf; the 82 World Traveller

Golden Gate Bridge; the bay on which Otis Redding sat to pen his classic song…

There are countless reasons to visit San Francisco, with the historic Scarlet Huntington Hotel, atop the prestigious Nob Hill, a prime spot to stay and soak up the city’s unique attractions. The hotel bears the name of a forner railroad tycoon, Collis P Huntington, and in 1922

opened as apartments, being converted into a hotel two years later.

Over 90 years on, the hotel’s charm is ingrained within the Georgian-style red brick building. Book yourself into the impeccably styled one-bedroom suite, an apartment-sized space with a separate living and dining area.

Downstairs, the characterful and permanently buzzing Big 4 Restaurant & Bar is a big draw with locals, while Nob Hill Spa, complete with a swimming pool looking over the city, provides the perfect antidote to the aching calf muscles you’re sure to develop from walking up the picturesque, but hilly, streets.

The Scarlet Huntington is a member of the Preferred Hotels & Resorts LVX Collection, visit preferredHotels.com

WEEKENDs Next issue

In next month’s

World Traveller… ➤The skiing season has arrived! Wrap up warm and hit the slopes thanks to our selection of top ski resorts ➤The ultimate family holiday to Walt Disney World Resort in Orlando ➤The secrets of bucket-list favourite Machu Picchu

World Traveller 83

Suite dreams

Suite dreams Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a suite that has a character and style all of its own

Thatched beach villa

Anantara Medjumbe Island Resort, Mozambique When the going gets tough, the tough deserve a little break in this idyllic, luxurious yet rustic beach villa. One of 12 on the island, it boasts its very own plunge pool and private stretch of powder white sand that's the perfect spot for basking under the African sun. All you have to do is relax and enjoy the view toward the Indian Ocean, which you can see at all times, whether you're lazing in the four poster bed, soaking in the tub in your blue-and-whitetiled en suite, or dining al fresco on the deck.

Find out more at medjumbe.anantara.com

84 World Traveller

20.09.2017 - 19.03.2018

SHEIKH ZAYED GRAND MOSQUE, ABU DHABI

Hilya by Hasan Rida, in jali thuluth and naskh scripts. Rida was a student of both Mehmed Sefik Bey and Kazasker Mustafa Izzet Efendi. 1323 AH, 1905/6 CE, Turkey. © HE Mohammed al-Murr Collection

Under the Patronage of His Highness Sheikh Mansour bin Zayed Al Nahyan Deputy Minister and Minister of Presidential Affairs

JW MARRIOT T® MARQUIS DUBAI

Elevating Luxury to New Heights.

Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is centrally located beside the Dubai Water Canal. Offering a spectrum of facilities for the most discerning travellers, it is the ultimate destination of exceptional taste featuring an array of diverse restaurants and lounges.

1,608 LUXURIOUS GUEST ROOMS AND SUITES OVER 14 AWARD-WINNING RESTAURANTS AND LOUNGES SARAY SPA FEATURING TRADITIONAL HAMMAMS, A DEAD SEA FLOATATION POOL AND 17 TREATMENT ROOMS STATE-OF-THE-ART HEALTH CLUB AND FITNESS FACILITIES 8,000 SQM OF SPECTACULAR MEETING SPACES For more information please call +971 4 414 0000 or visit jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com

Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971 4 414 0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com JW Marriott Marquis Dubai | JWDubaiMarquis | JWMarriottMarquisDubai