World Traveller - January/February'22

INSPIRED BY

ISSUE 153 | JANUARY-FEBRUARY 2022 | DHS 15

The Road Less Travelled Heading out on the remote Highway 50

Wild For Kenya Produced in Dubai Production City

Plus five other places you really must visit this year

MUNICH EASTER ISLAND JEDDAH TRAVEL OFFERS

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Managing Director Victoria Thatcher Chief Creative Officer John Thatcher General Manager David Wade Deputy Editor Sophia Dyer Art Director Kerri Bennett Digital Media Manager Muthu Kumar

Welcome note A s we kick off another new year — and begin our working week on a Monday — so to do we start anew with our travel plans. To get the inside track on where to go, we asked the experts at dnata Travel for their top tips (page 20). However, if you're keen to travel off the beaten track, we also report from the great beyond, as Nick Redman takes a Pacific voyage from Tahiti to Easter Island (page 38). And from the socalled 'Loneliest Road in America', where Julia Buckley heads out on Highway 50 through Nevada (30).

Closer to home, Lina Malaika takes us on a tour of her home city, Jeddah (page 18), while design guru Danny Gonzales offers up his travel tips on page 15.

As always, we've also got a whole host of exclusive staycation offers for you (page 56) — what better way to celebrate the new weekend?

Happy New Year and even happier travels.

COVER IMAGE Kenya, Getty Images

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US Road Trip

38

Easter Island

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Tazmania

The World Traveller Team

INSPIRED BY

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HOT Media does not accept liability for omissions or errors in World Traveller.

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Contents

January-February 2022 Istanbul

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SIX OF THE BEST

regulars 06

13

18

20

60

Rethinking that bucket list? Here are a few places to keep in mind for a future trip.

The places topping our go-to list this month; key dates for your travel diary; and design guru Danny Gonzales shares his travels tips.

We're staying local this month, as influencer Lina Malaika takes us on a tour of her favourite spots in her home city of Jeddah.

Marking your card for where to travel this year, the experts at dnata Travel serve up their selection of six go-to places.

It may be too chilly to don a kilt, but that won't stop us from seeking out the splendour of Edinburgh's The Witchery by the Castle.

WHAT A WONDERFUL WORLD

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GLOBETROTTER

MY CITY

SIX OF THE BEST

SUITE DREAMS

CONTENTS

features 30

38

46

You won’t get your kicks on Route 66. For real thrills join Highway 50 through Nevada.

A Pacific voyage from Tahiti to Easter Island feels like a trip through time and space — and that’s just what it is.

Lara Brunt goes off-grid on Maria Island in Australia and discovers an unspoilt isle teeming with unique wildlife.

THE NOWHERE ROAD

THE GREAT BEYOND

WALKABOUT

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EASTER ISLAND

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WHAT A WONDERFUL WORLD Places to inspire your wanderlust

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WHAT A WONDERFUL WORLD

Antelope Canyon

Arizona, in the USA, has something of a monopoly on other-worldly rock formations. Alongside the Wave at Vermilion Cliffs, so named because of its u-shaped furrows, Antelope Canyon represents the most visually rich. The reddened rocks, which look like reams of fabric billowing in the wind, are split into upper and lower parts, allowing for occasional beams of light to pierce the gaps between them, dousing the rocks in a medley of rich colours. A photograph of this occurrence, captured in dramatic black and white by landscape photographer Peter Lik, sold for $6.5 million in 2014.

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WHAT A WONDERFUL WORLD

Verona

Verona, the capital of Renaissance romance, is famous for its Shakespearean connections, with lovers cosying up beneath the balcony at ‘Juliet’s house’. Couples can also veer off the beaten track and explore the city's network of quiet courtyards, classic piazzas and quaint bridges by taking a bicycle tour through its cobbled streets. Two millennia of architectural innovation make for picturesque viewing, with highlights including the imposing Roman amphitheatre. Once you’ve had your fill of the sights, venture to the countryside and spend some quality time on the shores of Lake Garda.

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WHAT A WONDERFUL WORLD

Hong Kong

While Hong Kong Island has the skyscrapers, Kowloon boasts the best views of them. In fact, drawing the curtains of your suite in a Kowloon-side, waterfront hotel (the InterContinental Hong Kong is a never fail option) to reveal the historic Victoria Harbour, backed by cloud-skimming peaks, is one of the finest vistas in travel. To see yet more of Hong Kong, visitors often head to the peak to drink in views of rolling hills to the north and the modern metropolis below. It’s a popular place for a night hike, when the densely populated territory that glows below adopts a magical quality.

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JAN/FEB

Globetrotter Be informed, be inspired, be there

THE YEAR OF RELAXATION If your new year resolution is for less stress and more 'me time', The Ritz Carlton DIFC Spa has just the ticket.

Offering an annual membership, you'll receive year-round spa and inside-pool access, guest passes, plus handy discounts on treatments and restaurants. Along with five-star facials and massages, The Ritz Carlton DIFC Spa is renowned for its specialised experience treatments inspired by practices from around the world that are designed to leave you rejuvenated — which, after the last two years, is definitely what the doctor ordered.

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GLOBETROTTER

Planning this year's big trip? Lonely Planet sited the Cook Islands, in the South Pacific, as the top country to visit in 2022. Closely followed by Norway and Mauritius, with local favourite Oman also coming in the top ten.

SAVE THE DATES

2022 is set to be an exciting year for events. So, with your calendars at the ready, make note of these date...

Feb 13: Head to Inglewood, California for the NFL Super Bowl where Snoop Dogg.

Eminem, Dr. Dre, Mary J. Blige and Kendrick Lamar will be performing at half-time.

June 2-5 : To celebrate Queen Elizabeth II’s Platinum Jubilee, there will be a long weekend in England with plenty of pomp & ceremony.

July 24-31: Come summer, France is putting on the first Tour de France Femmes, which will see history being made as the Tour commits to a yearly women’s race.

Nov 21-Dec 18: Fly to Qatar for the long awaited FIFA World Cup — 10 years in the making. With eight stadiums purposefully built for the event, football's finest tournament will, for the first time, take place in the winter.

TRENDING DESTINATIONS Emily Jenkins, dnata Travel’s resident globetrotter, reveals the places you should visit next

PARIS, FRANCE

BAKU, AZERBAIJAN

GRAND BAIE, MAURITIUS

COUNTY CLARE, IRELAND

As Disneyland Paris turns 30, rediscover its theme parks, hotels, golf course, dining, and shopping, as it celebrates three decades of magic. Then dive into Parisian cafes, its many cultural institutions, and the city's famed restaurant scene.

Bounded by the Caspian Sea and Caucasus Mountains, Baku calls with its excellent food, cultural experiences, and mountain access for winter sports. The Old City, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, sits in contrast with the modern architectural skyline.

Discover the village of Grand Baie where you’ll spend days on sandy beaches, enjoy water sports, and dine in lively eateries before hitting up the island’s nightlife. New lagoon resort LUX* Grand Baie Resort & Residences is one not to miss.

Steeped in history and home to one of Ireland’s highest concentrations of grand castles — while guaranteeing unforgettable scenery — is County Clare. Make sure not to miss a trip to its Cliffs of Moher, one of Ireland’s most famous natural attractions.

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GLOBETROTTER

HOW I TRAVEL From top to bottom: Kyoto, Berlin, Tokyo

THE THING I LOVE MOST ABOUT TRAVELLING IS… Being able to plunge into the local culture. I love to travel like a local wherever I go so I can see, feel, and hear the everyday life of the places I visit.

MY FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS IN THE WORLD ARE… The hidden gems. I typically seek out the hole-in-the-wall type of restaurants. Some of the best have been Gaig in Barcelona, Alma in Lisbon, Shiso Burger in Berlin, and Contramar in Mexico City.

THE STAMP IN MY PASSPORT I’M MOST PROUD OF IS… The one that never made it onto my passport, Cuba. I had the most fantastic time spending several weeks in Havana, followed by scuba diving in the south.

THE BEST WAY TO FIND GOOD FOOD ON HOLIDAY IS… To watch where the locals are eating, they know what’s good! Also, having a basic understanding of the food in the country you’re visiting.

I KEEP MYSELF ENTERTAINED WHEN I TRAVEL BY… Walking! I love walkable cities. I like to keep gaps in my itinerary so I can spend time wandering the streets, discovering places and people along the way. I’m always fluid when I travel and welcome surprises and changes of plans.

THE COUNTRY THAT INSPIRED ME MOST WAS… Japan, in particular Tokyo.

The creativity in this city is

from what may otherwise be a busy trip and It’s rewarding to create those moments of serenity.

Danny Gonzales NYC native and LA-based commercial designer crazy! Whether it’s simple or extreme, the Japanese do it so well. They often lead the way in fashion, product design, or interiors.

IF YOU VISIT KYOTO, YOU HAVE TO… Visit its many temples and shrines. It’s a great respite

WHEN I TRAVEL, I PACK… Light. There was a time when I carried lots of different fashionable looks and hightech camera equipment wherever I travelled. As I get older, I realise that I want to focus on the experiences, which can mostly be had in a T-shirt.

MY TOP-THREE HOLIDAY DESTINATIONS ARE...

Puerto Vallarta, where I relax and the locals recognise me because I visit so often.

New York, because you should learn to treat your home city as a vacation destination, and Berlin, a place I meet new, or catch up with, old friends.

THE TRIP THAT CHANGED MY LIFE WAS… When I travelled to Thailand with two very close friends.

It was an incredibly powerful journey on which we learnt the invaluable lesson of trusting in the people and experiences that show up on the open road.

Danny Gonzales has designed chef David Myers' Adrift Burger Bar at Expo 2020. worldtravellerme.com 15

Creekside Charm With heritage, culture and modern knowhow, Dubai Creek Resort is the spot that keeps giving

B

uilt in 1993, when Dubai was a desert with just a smattering of buildings, Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht Club quickly made a name for itself on the scene. With an 18-hole golf course and memorable sail-shaped clubhouse that still stands today, time has been good to this institution. Some 28 years on, Dubai Creek Golf & Yacht Club has merged with the Park Hyatt Dubai to create Dubai Creek Resort, a lifestyle destination like no other in the city. With exciting activities, dreamy places to stay and decadent food to eat, Dubai Creek Resort harnesses the nostalgia from yesteryear, along with the excitement of today to promise a well-rounded good time.

Stay Set back from the city, among verdant plant life, there’s a unique holiday-feel when you check-in to either of the two hotels here.

Choose from the spacious four-bedroom

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villas of Dubai Creek Resort, which overlook the golf course and come with a private swimming pool. Or check-in to the one of the 223 elegant rooms of Park Hyatt Dubai, which promise Creek views and luxury amenities.

Play For those who get their kicks from hitting a ball across green fields, the 18-hole Dubai Creek Golf Course is a must visit. Seasoned pros will want to take their swings on The Championship Course, while beginners will enjoy taking lessons at the Peter Cowen Golf Academy, which is part of Dubai Creek Academies. It's at the Academies that you can also try your hand at tennis, padel tennis, or up your fitness in the FitLab. Eat Renowned for its world-class restaurants, choosing where to dine is the biggest

challenge you’ll face here. New, Cinnamon Baazar by Chef Vivek Singh is an experience for the senses. From the vibrant interiors to modern Indian flavours, the restaurant has quickly earned its place on Dubai’s foodie scene. Also revered is Boardwalk — which turns 27 this month — a seafood restaurant with a luxury Mediterranean feel. For decadent Thai dishes there’s The Thai Kitchen, while NOÉPE serves up Japanese Peruvian and Brasserie Du Park delights with modern French bites.

Relax If it’s relaxation you’re after, Dubai Creek Resort is a one-stop ticket to calm. The Amara Spa at Park Hyatt Dubai draws on state-of-the-art wellness concepts for its treatments, which are designed for rejuvenation. Then stretch out your worries during a Yoga with Tarika Gidwaney session, who teaches classes at The Lagoon Beach Cabana. And if you’re looking to leave your stay looking refreshed as well as feeling it, the Rossano Ferretti Hairspa offers luxurious haircuts and treatments from expert stylists.

dubaicreekresort.com

WORLD TRAVELLER X DUBAI CREEK RESORT

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This page, clockwise from below: The bride of the Red Sea sculpture; Mövenpick Resort Al Nawras by Richard Glendenning; Fruit Boat sculpture

MY CITY

Jeddah Influencer Lina Malaika (@linamalaika) spills the tea on her hometown What makes Jeddah special?

Unlike other cities in Saudi Arabia, Jeddah follows the bend of the coast, which means its trademarks are white sand beaches and deep blue water views. Affectionately known as 'The Mermaid of the Red Sea', the city attracts a variety of people from around the world who bring culture and art with them. Also known as the ‘Art Capital of Saudi Arabia’ there’s a diverse art scene, which includes the annual Red Sea International Film Festival and various sculptural installations across the city. Another reason Jeddah is special is because it’s a gateway for pilgrims who are journeying to either of Islam’s holy cities — Mecca or Medina.

My favourite place in Jeddah For me it’s the place that feels the most nostalgic, and I’ve been going to Salhia Beach Resort for as long as I can remember. It’s located in Ubhur, right on the Red Sea, and the crystal-clear water which laps the soft sand keeps me coming back year-on-year. For a daily dose of sea air, any of the restaurants, 18 worldtravellerme.com

hotels and beach resorts along the coast are picturesque places to spend time.

Lina Malaika

My favourite places for culture For streets full of culture, art, and history, Al-Balad (old-town) is equally as show-stopping to residents as it is tourists. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the district dates back to the 7th century with some elements being seamlessly recreated to fit in. Along the streets of the historic town, you’ll find original houses made from colourful coral, authentic Souqs and museums to explore, along with a mix of new, quirky outlets. Although I have been there multiple times, each visit I discover new corners and meet wonderful people.

My favourite places to eat Al-Nakheel on the Corniche Road will always be my all-time favourite place to dine. The big screen plays Egyptian singer Umm Kulthum’s performances from the ‘60s, while authentic Saudi flavours are served. I recommend trying their falafels, vegeterian mutabbaq, and finishing off with their sweet Umm Ali dessert. For breakfast, Moonshell in Ar Rawdah is a vegan haven — think delicious summer rolls and fresh açai

MY CITY This page, from left to right: açai bowl

by Julius David, Al-Balad

bowls. Though we have great coffee shops on every street corner, Locals Café in Al-Waha is my go-to. And for dessert, Dots in Ash Shati make the best dougnuts in the world — you must try their glazed and Nutella ‘bitties’.

My favourite places to shop in Jeddah Concept store, The Homegrown Market, was opened by my friend Tamara Abukhadra, and is a curated collection through which she showcases popular emerging Arab brands. Stocking everything from fashion, beauty, homeware, and food, the shop in Ar Rawdah has become a hub for the creative community of Jeddah. Another favourite is Farah Hammad’s design studio where she makes one-of-a-kind feminine pieces and sells them online.

My favourite attractions Aside from browsing the streets of AlBalad, I’d recommend you spend some time along the Jeddah Waterfront. I love riding my bike along the famous Corniche as it reminds me of Santa Monica beach in L.A. Of course, if you’ve got a PADI licence, you can’t beat diving in the Red Sea, which is home to some of the most beautiful coral reefs and sea life. Spending time underwater is

'I love riding my bike along the famous Corniche as it reminds me of Santa Monica Beach"

always so therapeutic for me. Those who have a need for speed will love gokarting at at IN10SO in the Red Sea Mall.

If you do only one thing while in Jeddah, I recommend…

Prepare a bag with your swimsuit, snorkelling gear, portable speaker, and a picnic. Then head to Bayada Island where you can rent a boat and spend the day in the middle of the Red Sea, soaking up the sun's rays as you float along. worldtravellerme.com 19

Royal Crescent, Bath

United Kingdom

TRIPS TO TAKE IN 2022 The experts at dnata Travel, detail their ‘must-visit’ destinations for the new year

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As today’s travellers look to spend an increased amount of time enjoying all that their holiday destination has to offer, we recommend a more extensive itinerary for travel to England in 2022.

Start in your favourite or a new area of London, from fashionable Kensington to colourful Notting Hill, and travel on for a journey across England’s popular town and countryside spots.

Recommended cities include

trendy Manchester for the UK’s best shopping outside of London, and Bath — known for its Roman Baths — for a relaxing retreat. The pick of the countryside includes the picturesque Cotswolds or The Lake District, while for beaches head to Cornwall, also a renowned location for surfing. The Platinum Jubilee of Queen Elizabeth II will also be marked in 2022, with a host of events planned throughout the UK.

SIX OF THE BEST

Florida, USA The ‘theme park capital of the world’ — Walt Disney World and Universal Studios included — Orlando is an incredible place to bring some well-deserved magic to your next family holiday. Florida is also a popular location for an unforgettable road trip, with so much to see and do across one state. From Orlando, head to Cape Canaveral, the hub of the US space programme.

Located between Jacksonville and Miami on its east coast, Miami

visit the Kennedy Space Center Visitor Complex to learn more about space travel.

One of Florida’s most scenic drives is from the stylish and lively city of Miami, on to the sleepier shores of the islands of the Florida Keys. This offers a perfect journey for outdoor enthusiasts to take in Florida’s most beautiful beaches, and to stop off for a visit to the famous Everglades National Park, for nature and wildlife in abundance.

Koh Samui, Thailand Thailand’s second largest island, Koh Samui is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful parts of the country and known as one of its top destinations for a relaxing retreat. With connecting flights from Bangkok easily accessible, it's the perfect time to explore this island gem. Stay in your choice of a range of luxurious tropical sanctuaries amidst a true natural paradise. Travel across Koh Samui’s most

famous beaches and colourful neighborhoods including Chaweng (for its main street, beach dining, and nightlife) and Bophut’s Fisherman’s Village (for its rustic feel and popular markets.)

Plan a day-trip to Ang Thong National Marine Park, an archipelago of more than 40 islands, the ideal destination for those seeking adventure, with tour operators on hand to offer myriad activities.

Ang Thong National Marine Park

Whale shark at Ang Thong National Marine Park

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Porto, Portugal With Portugal’s foundations lying in its north, tradition and culture run deep through the charming capital of Northern Portugal, Porto.

Known for its Historic Centre, a UNESCO World Heritage site, cobbled streets take you on a tour of medieval landmarks. In recent years Porto has become a European destination to watch, going through a time of rejuvenation via its rich cultural scene, with world-class performances Courtesy Mitch Hodge

©Europa-Park Courtesy Dominik Kuhn

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held at its contemporary concert hall, Casa de Musica, acclaimed art exhibitions in the galleries of Rua Miguel Bombard, and an evolving restaurant scene including some of Portugal’s top options for Michelin-star dining.

Offering a perfect balance of city, beach, and countryside, the country’s second-largest city is framed on one side by the sea and beautiful beaches, and mountainous landscapes on the other.

Istanbul, Turkey Turkey’s most vibrant city is a frequent feature on travel hit lists, and with a host of new openings and cultural landmarks set for a revival this year, expect Istanbul to be more popular than ever.

A bustling clash of different cultures, straddling two continents, and with an incredible mix of old and new, Istanbul offers up European and Islamic architecture, incredible food in glamourous rooftop restaurants, historic Courtesy Despina Galani

bazaars, and the glorious Bosporus. The newlyestablished Beyoğlu Culture Route offers a walking trail bringing together many of the city’s new and restored attractions. Begin at the legendary Taksim Square, a buzzing hub of hotels, shops, and entertainment, and head past many other landmarks to finish at the buzzing new Galataport to enjoy its international restaurants, art galleries, and more.

SIX OF THE BEST

Kenya, Africa Kenya is renowned as one of the top destinations to visit for an African safari.

For our travel experts, the country offers travellers the perfect combination of a city, wildlife, and beach retreat. Arrive in Nairobi, the urban capital city, offering a range of hotels and restaurants. Start a safari adventure at its National Park, a large game reserve with a city backdrop, or take a day trip to the renowned Lake Naivasha National Park. Make your next stop

the incredible Masai Mara National Reserve. Search for the famous ‘Big Five’: African elephant, leopard, lion, Cape buffalo, and rhinoceros.

Adjoining safari lodges and luxury resorts provide access to daily game drives with expert guides. From here, unwind at the famous Diani Beach. Located on Kenya’s Indian Ocean coast, 30km south of Mombasa, it’s a two-hour flight away. Then take a day trip to Tsavo East National Park. A holiday with a bit of everything.

Saxon Switzerland National Park

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HOW TO DO

MUNICH Think of the Bavarian capital and you’ll likely picture oompah bands playing to loud crowds in lederhosen.

But this southern German beauty has a stylish, laid-back ambience, too. Visit a plush Rococo-style theatre, idle in leafy parks and work slowly through drinks in a serene garden… The wochenende starts here!

Words: Adrian Tierney-Jones

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These pages, clockwise from top: aerial view of the city; Bayerische Staatskanzlei; Olympic Stadium

MUNICH

take in a traditional mid-morning treat of Weisswurst and Pretzel with a glass of locally brewed Weissbier.

Brunch at central Viktualienmarkt gets crowded, so take the U-Bahn to the leafy Schwabing neighbourhood, where shoppers with fashionable string bags browse the cabin-like stalls of Elisabethmarkt You’re here to chill, though, so find a table at Winter Garden in the shade of sun-dappled linden trees and linger awhile with a drink, surrounded by a chattering crowd.

Take a casual mooch around Schwabing, making for the Alter Nordfriedhof (Old North Cemetery) on Arcisstrasse. It’s anything but gloomy and is now more of a park to take a picnic to or sunbathe in. Canopies of trees give it the appearance of a large glade, as squirrels scamper over plots, birds trill and joggers go by, crunching the gravel.

Back in town, wander round the Residence. Once the Bavarian royal family’s palace, it’s now a sumptuous museum in which to hide from the bustle of the street. For added swash and buckle, 18th-century style, take in the nearby Cuvilliés Theatre, a lush expression of Rococo design, with marble columns, gilded boxes and stucco nymphs and cherubs. Visitors are transfixed by the finery — perhaps imagining the curtain rising as the first strains of a Mozart opera are heard.

You could climb the 299 steps to the top of St Peter’s Church, but it’s a lung-buster. Instead, relax into the

SEE & DO Just arrived? Head straight to the English Garden, the city’s green lung, where streams and waterfalls catch the rays of late sun as they dawdle through woodland and elegant landscaping. Here you’ll find locals practising yoga, walking their dogs, flying kites and idling in a beer garden in the shadow of a multitiered Chinese pagoda. You’ll get a lovely feeling they call Gemütlichtkeit round these parts.

If you’re here on a Saturday morning, worldtravellerme.com 25

ethereal main interior below, where a massive 18th-century gilded altar rises to the frescoed ceiling.

You might hear the angelic sound of a choir rehearsing.

Munich’s in no rush to wake up on Sunday, so take a slow amble for coffee and cake at the Deutsches Museum, beside the River Isar. Then explore the rooms full of scienceand-technology attractions, including ships, aircraft, mining and electrical power. In the maritime section, look out for the early 20th-century U-boat, cut open to show the horribly cramped conditions inside.

Before lunch, explore Königsplatz, which looks as if a giant has tossed a trio of Pantheon lookalikes in the middle of Munich. Built in the 19th century by order of King Ludwig I, this is where friends embrace on worn stone benches and canoodling couples sit in the midday sun..

Finish your mellow wanderings at Geschwister-Scholl-Platz in the university area, where a handful of bronze tablets are embedded in the pavement close to a water fountain.

These are replicas of the leaflets student members of the anti-Nazi White Rose resistance movement scattered here in 1943. Nowadays students horse around as tourists crouch over the tablets, reading the words of defiance.

EAT Local produce SOPHIA'S Inspired by the city's Old Botanical Garden (just a stone's throw away) Sophia's offers up a beautiful dining room and terrace, the latter a great spot for a light lunch. The relatively short menu hints at dishes that have been perfected, a feeling confirmed by a splendid homemade tagliolini. roccofortehotels.com Classic Bavarian AYINGER AM PLATZL This central tavern has a mellow evening mood enhanced by mighty helpings of sausages, dumplings and 26 worldtravellerme.com

Top Tip

flagons of Ayinger’s fab ale. Don’t be deterred by the reserved signs on empty tables. It’s to keep drinkers at the bar. ayingers.de Vietnamese treats NAM GIAO 31 An agreeable little Vietnamese neighbourhood restaurant — try the crisp roasted duck with peanut sauce and coconut. On a budget? Join the lunchers and get a soup and a spring roll.namgiao31.de .

Schnitzel nirvana SERVUS HEIDI Friendly staff, diners occasionally bursting into song and traditional dishes with a touch of the Med give this restaurant a sociable and

After dinner, explore the hip Gockenbach district, an energetic hub of lively drinking spots and dance-’tildawn clubs. Bring dancing shoes. amiable atmosphere. The must-try is the schnitzel with sweet mustard, horseradish and roast potatoes. servusheidi.de Afghan bites BAMYAN NARGES Named after the Buddhist statues destroyed by the Taliban in 2001, this family-run joint celebrates the spices and colours of Afghan cooking.

Veggies, vegans and carnivores settle in with equal enthusiasm. If it’s warm enough, nab a table on the terrace (book ahead). bamyan.de

MUNICH

STAY Eco-affordable

BOLD HOTEL MUNCHEN ZENTRUM A modern crash-pad popular with families, business types and passing nomads. It’s good value, too, and only a 10-minute stroll from the centre in the arty enclave of Schlachthof. Opt out of having your room cleaned (it’s eco-friendly!) and the hotel will give you a free drinks voucher for its bar.

Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/News Licensing

Stylish sleepover

BAVARIA BOUTIQUE HOTEL For 40 years, the same family has owned this snazzy designer den, a stein’s throw from the Oktoberfest’s official meadow home, Theresienwiese. Ideal for short stays, the rooms are minimalist, but cosy, and brushed with calm colours.

Hip haunt

HOTEL LA MAISON Its location, surrounded by plenty of cool bars and restaurants, makes this sultry four-star boutique bolthole a hit with weekending explorers.

It’s also an easy-going stroll from the English Garden, and has its own ‘digital concierge’, which includes details on sights, taxis and local transport, plus an app for online checking in and out.

The classic

MANDARIN ORIENTAL MUNICH Standing in the city’s Old Town, this hotel is not shy when it comes to flashing its luxury credentials.

They include the Grand Presidential Suite, in which you’ll find six rooms, a hot tub and steam room.

Opposite page: Sophia's Above: Mandarin Oriental Munich

Trad-trendy

PLATZL HOTEL MUNICH With an Altstadt location and part of the building dating back to the Middle Ages, it’s a muchloved pit stop for Munich regulars, who enjoy its genial fusion of old-school Bavarian decor and contemporary-cool coloured walls.

Think lederhosen with a punk hairdo. It’s worth dining in for the restaurant's take on regional cuisine.

Romantic bolthole

LOUIS HOTEL Overlooking the Viktualienmarkt, this is ideal for a languid, romantic weekend. Its Mediterranean-styled rooms blend oak flooring with a calm colour scheme, while its Japanese restaurant is also well worth the splurge. During fine weather the hotel opens up its rooftop terrace, which has sweeping views of the city. worldtravellerme.com 27

EXPERIENCE THE

AMERICAN

DREAM

East Coast, West Coast & everywhere in between, dnata Travel has the very best of the USA for you! Our memorable 5-night USA packages start from AED4,785 per person flying with Emirates.

To find out more about our USA holidays, visit dnatatravel.com, call or WhatsApp 800 DNATA (36282), or visit our travel experts in-store Follow us on

For our top offers scan here

Tasmania

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Postcards Stories from far and wide

US ROAD TRIP p30 EASTER ISLAND p38 TASMANIA p46

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GREECE

Dubrovnik

You actually won’t get many kicks on Route 66. For real thrills join Highway 50 through Nevada, says Julia Buckley

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NEVADA

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GREECE

Diocletian's Palace

This page: The pool at Amanpuri

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NEVADA GREECE

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o there I was in the middle of the desert — mountains either side, hot air ripping through the cacti, suncracked tombstones all around — when I saw him. Edward Tregoning.

In Nevada. From my hometown, 8,000km away. Dead, of course. It took a whiskey in the saloon to steady my nerves before I could get back on the Pony Express.

OK, I’m overegging it. But wouldn’t you if you’d driven the loneliest road in America and lived to tell the tale?

That the US does the world’s best road trips, you knew already. That the best one isn’t the most famous, you might not. Highway 1 up the California coast? Gorgeous, but totally touristy.

Route 66? Iconic, sure, but often dull.

Cross-country is magnificent, but only if you’ve a month to do it properly. Which is where Highway 50 comes in. Not all of it, mind (it runs for a staggering 4,800km from Maryland on the east coast to Sacramento in the west), but, specifically, the 462km stretch that slices Nevada right through the middle.

And you thought Las Vegas was Nevada. This, 400km north, is another world — one that swaps slot machines and neon lights for hardcore wilderness.

It’s rugged but not romantic — there are ranchers instead of cowboys, Trump hats instead of Stetsons, and scrubcarpeted mountains that look like scrunched-up paper bags instead of epic, snow-stroked peaks.

It’s also, for those 462km between Ely and Fernley — towns unlikely to top many must-visit lists — blisteringly wild. Here on the route of the Pony Express (the 1860s mail service on which Buffalo Bill galloped into history), settlements are 100km apart at their closest. Fail to fill up the tank at each and you risk running out of petrol with no one to rescue you and no phone signal to call for help. ‘The loneliest road in America,’ Life magazine called it in 1986. It wasn’t meant as a compliment, but Nevada decided to turn it into one.

Today, it’s a genius marketing tactic: the ultimate socially distanced road trip.

Pick up a Highway 50 booklet en route, get it stamped in every town and they’ll post you a certificate to mark your feat.

Five years after I first did it (I’ve driven it twice) I still sleep in an ‘I survived the loneliest road in America’ T-shirt. And I still think of Edward Tregoning.

Poor Edward — ‘mother’s little lamb’, as his gut-clenchingly tiny headstone calls him. He lies in Eureka, the second town on the loneliest road after Ely. Today, it’s a Wild West time-capsule: a neat film set plonked in that arid landscape, dour mountains casting shadows across the saloons, court and opera house (yes, there’s an opera house, and yes, it’s said to be haunted).

Back in its heyday, though, Eureka was a boomtown. ‘Eureka!’ yelled the prospector from neighbouring (read: 100km away) Austin, who’d come to scour the Diamond Mountains for treasure in 1864. ‘Eureka!’ crowed the

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SETTLEMENTS ARE 100KM APART AT THEIR CLOSEST. FAIL TO FILL UP THE TANK AT EACH AND YOU RISK RUNNING OUT OF PETROL WITH NO ONE TO RESCUE YOU AND NO PHONE SIGNAL TO CALL FOR HELP

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Lošinj

Korčula

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Left: The Shoe Tree

NEVADA

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IT’S ROUTE 66 BEFORE THE TOURISTS: MOM-ANDPOP STORES HERE, A RETRO MURAL THERE, ALL SWADDLED BY THE MOUNTAINS THAT MADE THESE TOWNS’ FORTUNES

miners who made this Nevada’s secondrichest mineral town. ‘Eureka!’ cried the hangers on — the showgirls, the civil servants, the journalists— who swelled the population to 10,000 in a decade.

Many of them cried ‘Eureka!’ in different accents: Irish, Welsh and Cornish, crossing the ocean in search of a better life. Wander through the cemeteries — there are seven of them, cantilevered above town in the scrub, mountains looming at the back — and you’ll see names like Williams, Connolly, Murphy — and the Tregonings of my Cornish childhood.

They came to the loneliest road in America before there even was a road.

They died here, too — life expectancy was shockingly low. Poor Edward didn’t even make it out of infancy. Today, their graves — sun-split wooden markers, bramble-wrapped headstones — are visited by intrepid tourists, genealogists, and wild deer who trot down from the mountains, freeze when they see me running my fingers along Edward’s

familiar surname, then skitter down towards the saloons. In Eureka, Main Street is quieter than the graveyard.

Not that it’s spooky. ‘The friendliest town on the loneliest road,’ say the signs, and they’re right. The only tourist in town, I’m swept straight in to the dolly-sized opera house, complete with elaborate painted curtain and, supposedly, a benevolent backstage ghost. At the museum, based in Eureka’s old newspaper office, the manager, Ree, whisks me into the press room, its walls plastered with 100-year-old front pages, the air heady with ink from snuffed-out printers. A seasoned US road-tripper, I’d prepared to barricade myself in my motel room, but Jeff, at the Gold Country Inn, is as protective as if I’m his daughter. Even at supermarket Raine’s, where stuffed stags, cow feed and guns jostle with the food, everyone grins as I stock up, Nevada-style: dressingdrowned ‘salad’, blancmange-topped jelly, and a pair of proper cowboy jeans.

This is America unsanitised.

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To do it properly, start in Utah, heading west from Salt Lake City past Mormon temples, the otherworldly Great Salt Lake and the dazzling salt plains. At West Wendover, where Nevada begins, dip two hours south to elegant Ely, the start of the loneliest road. It’s Route 66 before the tourists: mom-andpop stores here, a retro mural there, all swaddled by the mountains that made these towns’ fortunes. Get lunch at Economy Drug, an old-school pharmacy with a chequered-tiled, chrome-stooled soda fountain straight out of Grease (on a road trip, it has to be a cheese-oozing patty melt). Now you’re ready to drive, the road swirling round mountains, up ridges and down into desert flats.

Nevadans call them valleys; we’d say America-with-a-capital-A. The sky is a piercing blue, the clouds alarmingly huge, the sun so bright that sometimes the tarmac shapeshifts like mercury.

Eureka is 80 minutes west of Ely, and about an hour from Austin, then it’s another hour and a half to Fallon, where worldtravellerme.com 35

Eureka Dunes, Death Valley National Park

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NEVADA

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Credit: © The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/News Licensing

THE SKY IS A PIERCING BLUE, THE CLOUDS ALARMINGLY HUGE, THE SUN SO BRIGHT THAT SOMETIMES THE TARMAC SHAPESHIFTS LIKE MERCURY civilisation resumes. That’s if you keep driving, as I did on my first trip. This time, I alternate between recklessly speeding down long, Roman-straight stretches, and slamming on the brakes: to see a ruined Pony Express station, walls scorched black by 160 years of Nevada sun; to take a selfie by the kind of big-landscaped, never-ending roads I last saw Forrest Gump running through; and to inspect 10,000-year-old Native American petroglyphs carved in the rock outside Austin — perhaps horseshoes, rainbows and, er, womanly things.

At Austin, a wood-slatted village wedged in a rocky cleft, I veer up the mountainside on a dirt road to Stokes Castle, an eerie ruined tower built by a local magnate as his summer retreat above the sun-smeared desert.

From there it’s on to Fallon: past the creepy Shoe Tree — a lanky roadside cottonwood, hung with hundreds of trainers laced together like fairy lights — and along a sandy stretch, mountains disintegrating into giant dunes.

Fallon is the Nevada you already know: strip malls, casinos (the Depot is a kooky converted train station with a diner that serves that all-important patty melt) and even a hipster distillery, Frey Ranch, producing heady field-tobottle bourbon. Here’s where Highway 50 splits in two, but 1986’s ‘lonely’ road to Fernley — and on to Reno,

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Vegas’s dumpier little sister — is now built-up. Instead, I fork southwest, the ‘other’ 50 rippling across open countryside. ("Don’t speed," Ree from Eureka had warned me. "There are wild horses on that bit — and trust me, you don’t wanna hit them.")

Further on is Carson City, Nevada’s incongruously modern capital, and beyond it Lake Tahoe and California.

But tonight I’m veering off track, slithering up a canyon to Virginia City, a silver boomtown cradled in a mountain fold. Where Eureka withered after mining, Miss Virginia marinated herself in aspic until tourism was born. Today, Main Street is a mass of raised wooden walkways, candy-coloured houses and posts to either tether your horse to, or loll back against, liquored-up. Of course, it’s crawling with tourists — until I reach the graveyard, and again it’s just me and those familiar names. Evans; O’Donoghue; Cornish Rowes and Retallacks. Up on a bluff, hot desert air blasting like a hairdryer, snaggletooth mountains squeezing tight, holes in the dirt from, hopefully, desert rats, but probably snakes. Fifty shades of dirty beige and grubby grey. Yet, somehow, on the loneliest road, I’ve never felt alone.

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com worldtravellerme.com 37

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PACIFIC VOYAGE

The

great beyond A Pacific voyage from Tahiti to Easter Island feels like a trip through time and space —and that’s just what it is, says Nick Redman

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PACIFIC VOYAGEOYAGE

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trawberries don’t grow in the empty heart of the Pacific. A few palm trees on the occasional lonely atoll, yes, but you can’t really stir those into your muesli.

For certain guests on board, the truth simply wasn’t graspable. Strawberries, they’d demanded. yet strawberries right now — on board or off — there were not. “We already have a scandale because the yoghurt we took on in Pape’ete tastes different," Hervé, the executive chef, explained to me, with mild exasperation. At least there were limitless freshly baked croissants.

“We are in the middle of nowhere,” he said, like it needed underlining. “A black zone. Go to the bridge and watch the radar, it’s just clean sweeps! No cargo ships, no planes.” Then he added, softly: “It may be the first time ever that humans are passing on this precise route.” He surveyed the lunging wastes to the horizon. “People don’t realise this: the extent of their safety is 2cm of steel hull.”

He meant it: our vessel was our life support system on a desolate Pacific that, with its gradations of sea and night-sky blue, might easily be outer space.

First-world problems can arise in faraway places, especially aboard a fivestar small ship, in this case L’Austral, among the fleet of Ponant, the French specialist in intrepid luxury cruising.

Somewhere east of Pitcairn Island, our previous port of call, where Captain Bligh’s ship met its mutinous demise, we couldn’t really complain. Not with a bounty including Champagne and 40 worldtravellermagazine.com

cheeseboards from la belle France with every meal; memorably, too, barbecued wahoo fish one lunchtime on the back deck, bought by Hervé a day or two before from vendors in Mangareva, among the remote Gambier Islands of French Polynesia. While he shopped in Rikitea town (pop: 1,500), I found Jesus in the coral-limestone cathedral: a statue festooned with a rainbow of fresh-flower garlands.

Christians, Melanesians, Polynesians… Over 14 days, it would become humbling to learn of the pioneers who had made it this way before us — some of them millennia before us — on our privileged voyage from Tahiti to Easter Island. The temporary dearth of strawberries was put into perspective by engrossing on-board lectures about the cultures that, over aeons, managed to spread eastwards across the ocean, like seeds that sometimes bob to distant shores and grow, and sometimes perish. Rapa Nui — to give Isla de Pascua, or Easter Island, its real name — is Chilean today.

Most travellers reach it in five hours (as the 777 flies) from the capital, Santiago de Chile, where the airport shops sell souvenir mini Moai statues like meaningless collaborations between Dalí and Disney. But they’re missing the story: the island is Polynesian to its bones, which makes a slow boat, up from the South Pacific isles, such a lifechanging alternative approach.

Ours begins with a night at the InterContinental Tahiti, in the capital, Pape’ete. The resort is faded-fabulous — 1950s-retro and Floribbean — with a waterfall into the pool and the island of Mo’orea carbon-dark across the

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THE CABIN TV DISPLAYS A MAP OF THE LONG WAY AHEAD, WHICH LOOKS LESS LIKE GEOGRAPHY, MORE LIKE ASTRONOMY, SO UTTERLY PINPRICK ARE THE PLACES TO BE VISITED ON THIS CRUISE

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These pages, clockwise from top: Polynesian women perform traditional dance in Tahiti; colourful marine life in Tahiti; driving through a waterfall in the Tahitian jungle; Tahitian tuna salad

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PACIFIC VOYAGE

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FAKARAVA IS TEXTBOOK SOUTH PACIFIC, WHERE COCONUT PALMS STOOP OVER A MIRROR-STILL, METALLIC LAGOON water at dusk, like a tropical Paramount Pictures logo. The drums of the Tahitian barbecue night bring to mind that old movie Bird of Paradise, starring Dolores del Rio. There are totem poles of carved tiki faces holding up the bar, where a rum- and curaçao-laced blue mana’o or two can pitch the unwary quickly from Polynesia into amnesia.

L’Austral sails next day at sunset.

As we settle in, the cabin TV displays a map of the long way ahead, which looks less like geography, more like astronomy, so utterly pinprick are the places to be visited on this cruise — constellations across an ocean of blue.

Over time we’ll come to understand that, culturally, Easter Island is one point in an ancient triangle that includes New Zealand, west of it, and Hawaii, to the north. It is the most remote island in the Polynesian world, not annexed by Chile until 1888. The Tricolore French flag squirms in the faintest breeze as L’Austral exits dock, leaving Tahiti sown with beads of traffic headlights. Next stop: Fakarava.

The ship moves with a rubbery shake through the darkness, turbulent but slow-mo, like a jumbo jet in jelly. Over caesar salads and crème brûlées in the elegant wave-level restaurant, wellmannered French guests chatter sotto voce, unlike some of us Brits, who, after a bottle of Bordeaux, soon become blotto voce. Next day, basking in 26C of sun, we pass creamy-sandy atolls — lassoes of land resembling giant calamari rings.

It’s quite terrifying to comprehend that swathes of the ocean are aquatic desert, a soulless gyre. No fish, no birds.

Too far from land, too far from home.

That the ancestors of Polynesians likely originated in Southeast Asia or Taiwan — opinions differ — colonising

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the western Pacific between 4,000 and 800BC, is remarkable. That they travelled in canoes, fleeing territorial disputes, perhaps, or climate change, is inconceivable. I contemplate the magnitude of it all from the breezy back-deck bar as the day fades to grey, to powdery night nebulae, sipping Croix Salans Pays d’Oc rosé in gratitude for my surrounds.

To stop off at such minute outcrops of unendingly welcoming civilisation, as we do over the coming days, is life-affirming and repeatedly frissoninducing, even though visits last mere hours. Fakarava, part of the Tuamotu Archipelago, is textbook South Pacific.

Coconut palms stoop over a mirrorstill, metallic lagoon, swimmable from a small, soft-sand beach, and a woman sells iced Tahitian beer. Red hire bikes permit circuits of the boomerangshaped island, with its bougainvilleadressed bungalows and its Sunday hush. The most identifiable imports are Coca-Cola and Christianity, and in the silent Church of St John of the Cross is a Byzantine portrait of Christ, hung with lavish skeins of conch shells.

Among the long ages of migrating humanity, the missionaries were late to the party, arriving in the second half of the 18th century to suppress the dancing, drums, tattoos and polygamy.

But Catholicism and Protestantism thrive today in contexts unfamiliar to less tolerant lands. Sexual diversity in French Polynesia has always included the Māhū culture: community members born male, but developing as, and considered, non-binary. On the tiny Edenic island of Aukena, where ginger cockerels wander through the banana palms, we’re shown pearls for sale by a softly engaging trader with an impressive tongue stud, fine body art and big golden worldtravellermagazine.com 43

PACIFIC VOYAGE

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THERE ARE PALMS AND A HUGE VOLCANIC CRATER OF AVOCADOS AND MANGO TREES. THERE ARE WILDFLOWER MEADOWS AND COPPER-COLOURED PONIES. AND, OF COURSE, THERE ARE MOIA, THOSE WORLD-FAMOUS HUMANOID SCULPTURES

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mutineer to expire, John Adams, on March 5, 1829. Planted with red lilies, in this isolated place, it makes me shudder: how lonely dying will be.

Pitcairn was the last stepping stone for the Polynesians before Rapa Nui. Who knows how they found it without compasses or maps, adrift on the Pacific for weeks at a time. Maybe chance, definitely preparation: complete communities sailed on vessels like primeval spaceships, with dogs, rats and roots as edible cargo. Recognised today as the best navigators in the world, by the time they discovered it they were certainly capable of reading stars, cloud patterns and bird flocks; of sensing the proximity of land by wave reverberations felt with feet. Inveterate explorers, they would return west to organise migration.

At dawn, seen from the prow of L’Austral, subtropical Rapa Nui looks like the first garden cross-pollinated with Dartmoor. There are palms and a huge volcanic crater of avocados and mango trees. There are wildflower meadows and copper-coloured ponies. And, of course, there are Moia, those world-famous humanoid sculptures — about 900 of them, singly and in clusters, island-wide.

We have two full days to admire their extraordinary faces, spattered with lichen.

Some appear disdainful. One gazes down

with mother-of-pearl eyes. Some face inland, ancestor-gods, protecting the islanders. Some face the sea, effigies of the first to discover this place, which they had by the early 8th Century AD; although the hieroglyphs cannot be read today, proof of Polynesian DNA has been detected, from bones exhumed.

We find one figure part-entombed in the quarry it was being cut from.

An abrupt halt. Did some calamity occur? Deforestation? Cannibalism?

Overpopulation? War? A micropremonition of Earth’s terrible end?

Imported syphilis may have struck later.

At least the first arriving Europeans (Dutch, 1722) were eye-witnesses to the cult of the Birdman, half-human, halfornithological. A famous carving of it upon a Moai hints at spiritual transition — some cultural continuity, past to present, west to east. So, too, does a wooden statue of it that startles me, alone in the Catholic Church of Rapa Nui: avian and alien, it stares down its beak, spread wings gently suggestive of crucifixion, part of Polynesia’s fluid narrative.

Soon we’ll be on a plane, flying home.

Thankfully our Pacific voyage has revealed the real currents that lead to this place.

Inspired to travel? To book a trip, call +971 4 316 6666 or visit dnatatravel.com

Credit: The Sunday Times Travel Magazine/News Licensing

earrings, who smiles broadly for our joint selfie. I so wanted to remember their warm welcome when back on the other side of the world.

One morning, about 5,556km from Tahiti, through the windows, beyond the pastries, is Pitcairn Island, a British overseas territory. Welcome to Polynesia’s wild child, as it’s been ever since 1790, when HMS Bounty was burnt in the bay and Fletcher Christian, with his mutineers, began a family tree that survives to this day. Sheer and granitestern, topped with lonesome pines, it is a Caledonian Capri, mad-dog surf frothing at the black rocks. It has no airport or ferry links. It is harder to reach than Easter Island, says the captain. Four times a year a ship from New Zealand arrives with mail and all the supplies, including chocolate and wine. “The important things in life,” says Kevin, the island guide who introduces me to Carol Christian (sixth generation). She runs the museum and has been back on Pitcairn for eight months, after a trip to New Zealand to have a pacemaker fitted (her journey meant 11 days on the supply vessel). Although there is a Kiwi police officer stationed, it feels strangely Wild West. I would love to stay, but we must set course for Easter Island: Rapa Nui. There’s just time to see the memorial to the last

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Previous pages: Fakarava These pages: a Moai at Ahu Tongariki, Easter Island

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These pages: Taking a stroll along Reidle Beach

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TASMANIA

Lara Brunt goes off-grid on Maria Island in Australia and discovers an unspoilt isle teeming with unique wildlife

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TASMANIA

As we walk along the bush track, the air thick with the honey-like scent of eucalyptus trees in bloom, a brown ball covered in spines waddles across our path. Sensing danger, the echidna goes to ground, burying his long snout in the leaves, reckoning that if he can’t see us, we definitely can’t see him. Despite growing up in Australia, I can count on one hand the number of times I’ve seen one of these shy creatures in the wild.

Encounters like this are commonplace on Maria Island (oddly pronounced ‘Mariah’, as in Carey), a pristine island off the east coast of Tasmania that was thankfully unaffected by Australia's recent bushfire crisis. Declared a national park in 1972 and accessible only by ferry, the island’s carefully managed conservation programme has seen booming numbers of weird and wonderful Aussie wildlife, including wombats, wallabies, kangaroos, pademelons, echidnas and possums.

Maria Island has also become something of a latter-day Noah's Ark, with vulnerable species such as Cape Barren geese and Forester kangaroos shipped here for insurance. Meanwhile,

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IT FEELS LIKE THE PERFECT OFFGRID ESCAPE FOR THESE TURBULENT TIMES

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the Tasmanian devil, a meat-eating marsupial famous for its spine-chilling screeches, has been saved from extinction after being decimated by a rare facial cancer. Over the past eight years, 34 disease-free devils have been introduced to Maria Island, which now boasts a healthy population of more than 100.

With its white-sand beaches, ancient eucalypt forests and soaring dolerite columns, animals are not the island’s only draw. I’d come to do the Maria Island Walk, an active but pampered four-day adventure led by guides Dan and Gemma. Fuelled by gourmet Tassie

food and staying in glamping cabins, the 40km walk from south to north is not terribly demanding, even for a novice hiker like myself. It feels like the perfect off-grid escape for these turbulent times; in four days, we stumble upon only one other walker (who looked pretty surprised to see us too).

Originally inhabited by the Tyreddeme Aboriginal people, Dutch navigator Abel Tasman sailed past in 1642 and named the island after the wife of his patron.

The British established a penal colony on mainland Australia nearly 150 years later, before setting up a convict settlement at Darlington at the northern end of Maria Island, our ultimate destination, in 1825. Abandoned seven years’ later, the island was then leased for whaling, farming and various ill-fated ventures, including a vineyard and cement works, dreamt up by a charismatic Italian merchant named Diego Bernacchi, before it became protected land.

Departing by boat from Triabunna, a tiny town on the east coast of Tasmania, we arrive 30 minutes later at Shoal Bay. Small rays glide in slow motion

Clockwise from opposite: Darlington convict settlement; candlelit dining at camp; Tasmanian devil; the sun sets on the rocks © Rob Blahers; a wombat comes to say hello

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JAPAN

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MARIA ISLAND HAS ALSO BECOME SOMETHING OF A LATTER-DAY NOAH'S ARK

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TASMANIA

through the turquoise shallows as we wade ashore and set off down the deserted beach, boots in hands and sand between our toes. The island is 20km long and 13km across at its widest point, but we cross the narrow isthmus that connects the north and south parts, giving Maria Island an hourglass shape.

After settling into Casuarina Beach Camp, a permanent eco-camp hidden among the trees with six green canvas and wood cabins and a swanky communal dining area, our group of ten – Belgians, Canadians, Aussies and a Brit – set off for an 8km round-trip under towering blue gums to Haunted Bay (spotting our spiky echidna friend along the way).

With boulders covered in blood-red lichen and a resident penguin colony, the bay is incredibly photogenic, despite its mournful moniker. “The name is said to come from the tortured souls of whalers once stationed here, or the cries of baby penguins as they wait for mum to bring food home,” Dan tells us.

By the time we stroll back into camp, canapés are ready and dinner is well under way. We may be on an uninhabited island with no mobile phone signal, but Dan and Gemma rustle up a topnotch meal of bruschetta with vineripened tomatoes and goats’ cheese, followed by a saffron risotto with Spring Bay scallops, and a summer berry pudding with King Island cream.

Time to loosen those trousers.

We wake to the sound of twittering wattlebirds, ready for the longest stretch of the walk, covering some 14km over flat bush tracks and five sandy beaches.

Heading north, we stop for morning tea at an old farmhouse at French’s Farm, with the nearby shearing shed hinting at Maria Island’s previous life as a sheepfarming outpost for more than 150 years.

We follow kangaroo tracks along the beach, as the clearest waters I’ve ever seen lap the shore and dramatic storm clouds gather overhead. From the crest of the hill at Point Lesueur we spy the red-brick ruins of a convict probation station that operated from 1842 and 1850, and marvel at the orange and red cliffs that were an important source of ochre for the Tyreddeme Aborigines.

After stopping for lunch, we come across a grassy headland dotted with dozens of bare-nosed wombats and 52 worldtravellermagazine.com

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WILD AND WINDSWEPT, THE PRISTINE COASTLINE OF THE FREYCINET PENINSULA STRETCHES OUT BEFORE US

carpeted with their distinctive cubeshaped dung. Normally nocturnal, the tank-like marsupials are happy to graze all day long on Maria. And while they look dozy, the average wombat could out-sprint a human in a 100-metre dash. We even catch sight of a “twoheaded” wombat, with a baby joey sticking out of mum’s pouch at the rear.

Arriving at another impeccably organised camp, I enjoy a wonderfully hot bush shower, before sitting down to miso soup with wakame seaweed and shitake mushrooms, followed by a gourmet Aussie barbeque of duck-and-wallaby sausages, quail and lamb chops with spiced cous cous.

After the day’s exertion, I feel like I’ve earned every bite of the flourless chocolate cake smothered in cream.

Day three takes us past the Painted Cliffs, swirling sandstone rock formations created by iron oxide-stained ground water, tides and wind, before arriving at the UNESCO World Heritagelisted convict settlement of Darlington.

We dump our packs at Bernacchi House, an elegant 19th-century cottage where we’ll spend our last night, before the

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more adventurous of us head out to scale the twin peaks of Bishop and Clerk.

Following the cliff edge, the track begins to narrow and climb as we make our way into the bush. We slowly zigzag up a steep field of fallen rocks, before scrambling up to the summit.

Wild and windswept, the pristine coastline of the Freycinet Peninsula stretches out before us to the north, while massive dolerite columns plunge into the Tasman Sea as we look east.

On our final day, we explore the wellpreserved buildings of the old convict settlement that was once home to 627 convicts, ever-watchful for a Tassie devil that has been known to sun itself around these parts. It doesn’t make an appearance, but as we sit on the verandah of a rustic cottage enjoying one last meal of freshly shucked oysters, it hardly seems to matter.

The four-day Maria Island Walk operates from October to April, while a three-day walk operates in the winter months from June to August.

To book a future trip, call 800 DNATA or visit dnatatravel.com

Previous pages, left to TASMANIA right: On top of Bishop and Clerk; kangaroos at play These pages, left to right: Painted cliffs; a couple enjoy the views at Skipping Ridge

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WORLD TRAVELLER X LE MÉRIDIEN AL AQAH BEACH RESORT

STAYCATION

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THE FOOD With six distinct dining outlets under one roof, resort dwellers can embark on a culinary journey. Those seeking endless views should visit Gonu Bar & Grill, while cravings for Thai and Indian cuisine can be satisfied at Taste. After a day soaking up the sun and enjoying poolside bites at Baywatch, head to Sapore, located in a picturesque garden, for classic Italian fare.

THE ACTIVITIES As far as pools go, this resort's is unrivalled. The largest along the East coast, days spent dipping in the luxurious pool is an activity in itself.

And, with a Kids' Club equipped with a splash pool and indoor activities, everyone is happy. For the more adventurous, watersports are bountiful, while those who prefer to stay grounded can try their hand at crazy golf.

To find out more, call +971 9 244 9000 or visit marriott.com 54 worldtravellerme.com

LE MERIDIEN AL AQAH BEACH RESORT T +971 9 244 9000 lemeridien-alaqah.com

YOUR ALL-INCLUSIVE STAYCATION Stay and dine at Le Méridien Al Aqah Beach Resort on the East Coast with our All-Inclusive Package. Your stay includes: • Guaranteed sea-facing room overlooking the pristine Indian Ocean • Daily breakfast, lunch and dinner inclusive of house and soft beverages • Access to Al Aqah Spa • Access to the largest swimming pool in Fujairah • Non-motorised watersports • Access to private beach For more information, or to book contact us on: +971 9 244 9000 or visit lemeridien-alaqah.com N 25° 30’ E 56° 21’ DESTINATION UNLOCKED

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Reader offers Great deals to get you packing

FOUR FANTASTIC HOLIDAYS 1. CLUB MED GRAND MASSIF SAMOËNS MORILLON THE PERFECT SKI RESORT FOR BEGINNERS

4 nights starting from USD 1,200 per person

Includes: all meals, drinks, ski lessons, lift passes and returns from Geneva Airport.

Valid: until 31 March 2022

2. LAPLAND, FINLAND, SANTA CLAUS HOLIDAY VILLAGE THE HOME OF REINDEERS, SANTA CLAUS AND THE NORTHERN LIGHTS

4 nights starting from USD 1,155 per person

Includes: 4 nights stay in a family suite at Santa Claus Village, Gingerbread Kids' Club access, decorating Christmas cookies, group sledding, skiing trips, special surprises.

Valid: until 31 March 2022

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3. MIDDLE EAST WINTER CRUISE DUBAI-ABU DHABI-DOHA4 MUSCAT-DUBAI

7 nights starting from USD 519 per person

Includes: 7 nights cruise onboard Costa Firenze, breakfast, lunch and dinner daily, All taxes, fees and port charges Valid: until 30 November 2021 until 31 March 2022

4. WINTER WELLNESS IN BAVARIA, GERMANY SPA TREATMENTS AND CULINARY DELIGHTS

7 nights starting from USD 1620 per person* Includes: 7 nights at The Obermühle Hotel in a standard room, breakfast daily, dinner on arrival day, private return 1 transfer from Munich airport.

Valid: until 31 March 2022

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* Min 4 pax travelling together

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DNATA TRAVEL OFFERS

WEEKEND ESCAPES ESCAPES

The St Regis Dubai The Palm

RIXOS BAB AL BAHR, RAS AL

UAE ME DUBAI 1 night starting from USD 380 per person Includes: stay 1 night in an Aura Room with breakfast Valid: until 28 February 2022 HYDE HOTEL DUBAI 1 night starting from USD 290 per person Includes: stay 1 night in a Hyde Out Room with breakfast Valid: until 28 February 2022 25 HOURS HOTEL ONE

KHAIMAH 1 night starting from USD 332 per person Includes: stay 1 nights in a Classic Room on all-inclusive basis Valid: until 28 February 2022

SLS Dubai Hotel & Residences

SLS Dubai

ADDRESS BEACH RESORT FUJAIRAH 2 nights starting from USD 607 per person Includes: stay 2 nights in a Deluxe Room Mountain View with breakfast daily Valid: until 28 February 2022

CENTRAL 1 night starting from USD 240 per person Includes: stay 1 night in a Bedouin Room with breakfast Valid: until 28 February 2022

THE ST. REGIS SAADIYAT ISLAND RESORT, ABU DHABI 1 night starting from USD 320 per person Includes: stay 1 night in a Superior Room with breakfast Valid: until 28 February 2022

THE ST. REGIS DUBAI THE

WALDORF ASTORIA RAS AL

PALM 1 night starting from USD 587 per person Includes: stay 1 night in a Deluxe Room with breakfast Valid: until 28 February 2022

KHAIMAH 1 night starting from USD 575 per person Includes: stay 1 night in a Classic Room with breakfast Valid: until 28 February 2022

Waldorf Astoria Ras Al Khaimah The Oberoi Beach Resort Al Zorah, Ajman

Park Hyatt Dubai

Address Beach Resort Fujairah

Hyde Hotel Dubai

How to book

By calling dnata on 800 DNATA

By stepping into a dnata outlet or by visiting dnatatravel.com

On the website you can also sign up to the dnata newsletter and receive more offers direct to your inbox. T&Cs apply.

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Our team of experts are waiting to welcome you to take you on sensory journeys around the world. You’ll be completely immersed in local experiences and meet the incredible storytellers who make our tours unique.

REAL BRITAIN

SPANISH WONDER

6 DAYS FROM AED 4,960 PER PERSON

*

SWISS DELIGHT

9 DAYS FROM AED 6,800 PER PERSON

BOOK WITH CONFIDENCE • Free 3-day booking hold • $200 risk-free deposit • Flexible booking options • Industry’s first “Well-being Travel Director” • WTTC approved safety and hygiene protocols • Attractive savings available* *Terms and conditions apply.

To book call or WhatsApp 800 DNATA (36282) or visit your nearest dnata Travel retail store

*

9 DAYS FROM AED 10,100 PER PERSON*

DIGITAL

Competition Time

GET SOCIAL WITH US

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@worldtravellerme Share some love on our dreamy destinations shots and tag us in your own for a chance to feature on our grid @WorldTravellerME Be the first to see our travel stories when we post them. @WTravellerME Tweet us your best travel moments with the hashtag #WorldTravellerME

Win a two-night stay for two at The WB Abu Dhabi To kick start the new year in style, we've teamed up with the world's first Warner Bros.

Hotel, The WB Abu Dhabi, to offer you and a guest a supremely fun staycation. Part of Curio Collection by Hilton — and located a stone's throw from the award-winning Warner Bros. World Abu Dhabi Theme Park — the hotel invites guests into the world of Warner Bros.’ iconic films and television shows. To find out more information and to enter the competition, head to worldtravellerme.com

THERE’S MORE ONLINE Join us on our website for exclusive content, including the breaking travel news and tips on travelling during the pandemic…

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INSPIRE ME Inspiration from the places we can travel to now and those on our postpandemic list.

2

TRAVEL NEWS Learn the latest on air-travel, plus breaking stories from the resorts here and around the world.

3

HOTELS & RESORTS Your go-to when deciding where to stay in the Middle East and beyond.

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Suite dreams Our monthly finish with a flourish, delving into a suite that has a character and style all of its own

THE TURRET

The Witchery by the Castle, Scotland As Edinburgh braces for its coldest two months of the year, the newest suite at the Witchery by the Castle beckons. Its decadent interiors — complete with sumptuous fabrics, ornate tapestries, and a stunning draped bed — make for the perfect escape from the sub-zero temperatures outside. After a day exploring the historical city, warm up in your private sitting room that overlooks the Royal Mile below, before relaxing into a hot bubble bath in your Gothic-style en suite A stay here wouldn't be complete without dining at the hotel's intimate restaurant, which serves award-winning dishes made from Scotland's finest produce.

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Wellness Haven at Saray Spa. A relaxing realm of quiet luxury, Saray Spa at the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is an authentic wellness Spa, where ancient healing techniques and locally sourced natural ingredients are combined to enhance the well-being of each guest. The Spa features 17 treatment rooms, inclusive of two private hammam rooms and two Private Luxury Spa Suites. Experience the wonders of the Middle East through Arabian body rituals and hammams, or benefit from from anti-aging and hydrating facial treatments. An exclusive retail boutique offers luxurious gifts and spa products for every occasion.

JW Marriott® Marquis® Hotel Dubai marriott.com/DXBJW Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com

Inspiration. Expertly crafted.

Comprising two iconic towers, the JW Marriott Marquis Dubai is centrally located beside the Dubai Water Canal and offers a spectrum of facilities and services for a memorable experience. The hotel features 1,608 luxurious guest rooms and suites, over 12 award-winning restaurants, the renowned Saray Spa with traditional hammams and 17 treatment rooms and 8,000 sqm of spectacular meeting spaces.

JW Marriott® Marquis® Hotel Dubai marriott.com/DXBJW Sheikh Zayed Road, Business Bay, PO Box 121000, Dubai, UAE | T +971.4.414.0000 | jwmarriottmarquisdubai.com