HOUSE
TO N I C
Issue
15
MAKE YOUR OWN COCKTAIL INGREDIENTS GRANDMASTER FLASH CLASSIC SOHO HOUSE COCKTAILS BERLIN BAR GUIDE
THE DRINKS MAGA ZINE FROM SOHO HOUSE
MANHATTAN. P.22 2 HOUSE TONIC
HOUSE TONIC
CONTENTS 4
12
24
News from around the drinks world
Fun in the sun at House Festival
Where to drink in Berlin
6 Your Friendly Bartender London's Erdem Kayalar
8 The Trend Coffee in Istanbul
13 The best places to buy booze in the world
14 Recipe special Make your own cocktail ingredients
26 Grandmaster Flash at Shoreditch House
28 Soho House drinks news
HOUSE TONIC COV ER S: Soho Houses New York, Toronto, London, Berlin, West Hollywood, Chicago and Miami, Shoreditch House, Cafe Boheme, Electric House and Diner, Soho Kitchen and Bar, High Road House, Pizza Easts Portobello, Kentish Town and Shoreditch, Hoxton Grill, Little House, Dean Street Townhouse, Babington House, Cecconi’s in LA, London and Miami, and all Chicken Shops and Dirty Burgers.
29 9 In Season Grapes
21 House Tonic US Summits
What I Drink on Stage by PINS
30 10 St Germain Cocktail competitions
22 Soho House Classics Cocktail compendium
Soho House's stars of the bars
EDITOR'S LETTER
W
elcome to the autumn 2014 issue of House Tonic – a magazine for bartenders and people who love bars.
We've got some wonderful recipes for you to try in this issue - from classic cocktail recipes perfected by the bar teams across Soho House (p22) to more adventurous ideas for cocktail ingredients you can make at home - from vermouth to nettle wine. For those who prefer to order their drinks rather than make them, our Berlin team has created a guide to the city's best bars, plus we take a look at the coffee scene in Istanbul and catch up with all the drinks news from our venues worldwide. If you'd like to join one of our bar teams around the world, email housetonic@sohohouse.com.
EDITOR: Rebecca Seal DESIGN A ND A RT DIRECTION: Plus Agency PUBLISHER: Dan Flower TH A NK S TO: Kate Maxwell, Tim Pozzi, Lauren Shaw, Clemency Keeler, Kate Barry, Dai Williams, Steven Joyce, Tom Kerr, Marcin Liwarski
COV ER IM AGE: Steven Joyce FACING PAGE: Dai Willaims THIS PAGE: Dai Williams
Cheers!
www.housetonic.com housetonic@sohohouse.com twitter.com/HouseTonic www.facebook.com/HouseTonic instagram: @housetonic
HOUSE TONIC 3
NEWS
Hubbard and Bell
LONDON COCKTAIL WEEK Soho House Chicago
In London from 6th-12th October? Then sign up for a London Cocktail Week wristband which will get you £4 cocktails at any one of 200 participating bars around London. Even better, there will be dozens of other drink-related events – from parties to tutored tastings and competitions, for bartenders and consumers. Find out more at londoncocktailweek.com.
Soho House Chicago
NEW OPENINGS Soho House Chicago has now opened its doors in the Fulton Market District, with a gym, a spa and hotel rooms, as well as everything members have come to expect from Soho House's private spaces. For London's burger lovers there's an enticing new addition to the Tea Building, home to Shoreditch House: a brand spanking new Dirty Burger. If you're in Holborn, London, look out for Hubbard & Bell, a neighbourhood restaurant in the style of a classic American grill opening this autumn. The menu features such appetising American staples as lump crab, meat cocktails, BBQ baby back ribs and chargrilled Texas T-bone steak, to name but a few. There will also be a Chicken Shop restaurant in the basement. In a few months' time, Soho House will open its biggest ever club, in what was Istanbul’s first American consulate building. As always, our goal is to celebrate the unique features of the site, and we’re in the process of restoring many of the building's fabulous original frescos and fireplaces. Head over to houseseven.com to see a video progress report. 4 HOUSE TONIC
Istanbul
NEWS
BOOKS In Make Mine a Mar tini, Kay Plunkett-Hogge rounds up 80 of her favourite cocktails and 40 canapés to create a chic little guide to drinks, eats and planning the perfect party. Heston Blumenthal, Stanley Tucci and Jeremy Lee are all fans. (Octopus, £12) Distilled, written by the brilliant duo known as Cask Strength, Joel Harrison and Neil Ridley, uncovers the best spirits the world has to offer, explaining everything you need to know to appreciate a spirit and how best to enjoy them. (Mitchell Beazley, £14.99) The 12 Bottle Bar will appeal to anyone with a minimalist mindset, revealing how you can make more than 200 cocktails with just a dozen bottles. It's written by husbandand-wife drinks team David Solomson and Lesley Jacobs Solmonson. (Workman, £9.99 or $14.95)
K ATE MOSS COUPE
CHASE READY-MADE COCKTAIL
Whether the classic champagne coupe was inspired by Marie Antoinette's breast or Madame de Pompadour's is a question that has been debated for centuries. But now a glass really has been modelled on a bosom: Kate Moss's. Thanks to artist Jane McAdam Freud, daughter of Lucien Freud, you can now drink your fizz from an art-deco glass inspired by the model's chest.
If you love Chase's marmalade vodka (and if you haven't tried it – do), then you might want to grab a can of its first readyto-drink cocktail, made with its signature orangescented liquor, launching this autumn.
CARDAMOM BITTERS Once you've read our recipe special on page 14, you'll want to make your own, but just in case you don't get round to it, Fee Brothers have just released their brand new cardamom bitters. Tasty.
EVENTS FOR MEMBERS Every month, dozens of drinks events take place for members, from wine tastings to cocktail masterclasses to beer-pairing brunches, whether in New York, Miami or Berlin. Check out houseseven.com for more information, dates and to book.
Would you like to get behind one of Soho House’s bars around the world? Email housetonic@sohohouse.com or visit www.housetonic.com HOUSE TONIC 5
FRIENDLY BARTENDER
FRIENDLY BARTENDER Erdem Kayalar, bars manager, Soho House London
I worked in a bar in Istanbul before I came to the UK, but that really was only pouring beer. My first job when I arrived in London was as an usher in Millbank Tower, which just meant standing in the lift and pressing the button to take people up. I lasted about four shifts before I thought, “Enough!” Next I worked at Mayfair residences and then five years ago I started here at Soho House as a bar-back. I think S oho House is the best site of the whole group in terms of promoting from within. Our assistant general manager started off as a cleaner. I always say to staff who want to work their way up, “It's not me giving you a job, it's you taking a job. The job is there to be taken.” It was just good luck that I started out here, but that philosophy is what's kept me here. The fir st thing I ever drank was Efes beer, brewed in Turkey, when I was seven. My cousin poured it into my mouth. It was the bitterest thing I had ever tasted in my life. I hated it and I couldn't understand why anyone would want to drink it. The next thing was certainly raki, which I sneaked a taste of from my father's raki table when no one was looking. The fir st drink I ser ved was also Efes. When I was growing up in Turkey the government controlled the liquor industry and effectively owned everything except Efes. It's been quite extraordinary to watch a free market for alcohol emerge in my lifetime. 6 HOUSE TONIC
I was doing a Master s degree in development economic s when I came here, but I haven't finished it. I followed my girlfriend – she's now my wife – when she came to the UK to do a Masters at the University of Canterbury. It gives me a different perspective on where our ingredients come from – I have a good understanding of the importance of making certain products for small communities and producers all over the world and the networks that ultimately bring them to us to use here.
I'm a bit old-school, so I like to go to clas sic bar s like Nightjar in Shoreditch and sit at the bar and watch the bartenders at work.
It's a rare moment, but one I enjoy, when I see someone drinking a drink I've made and really appreciating it. It's wonderful when you know someone is really going to like what you've prepared, that they've come to you for your expertise specifically.
I'm excited that S oho House is about to open in my home town, Istanbul; and the building is absolutely beautiful. Although, in 2000 some of my university friends and I did try to occupy it. It was the American consulate then, and on the day when the war started in Iraq some of my university friends and I joined a big march to occupy it and try and stop the war. We didn't make it in of course, and we were kettled and teargassed by police. So it's quite a bizarre thought that I'll soon be able to walk in freely and order a Scotch.
Before Mad Men c ame out on television, if someone ordered an Old Fashioned you'd think, “Who is this guy?” But now people order them all the time, and genuinely enjoy them, which would never have happened in the past. I was amazed when I first watched the show – in the first few episodes there were Martinis, Gimlets, Mai Tais. I thought it was brilliant. The gre at thing about working here is that you get to serve some extraordinary people – but I'd love to make drinks for Al Pacino and Robert De Niro, sitting at the same table. In my head they'd just want neat, rough whisky.
If I was stuck on a deser t island I'd want a nice bottle of single malt. That said, if there was watermelon and salty cheese, then I'd want raki. But raki is a social drink – you need a big table, other people and plenty of meze dishes to eat. So whisky might be more appropriate since it's a more solitary drink.
Would you like to get behind one of Soho House’s bars around the world? Email housetonic@sohohouse.com or visit www.housetonic.com
FRIENDLY BARTENDER
SOHO HOUSE LONDON TEAM Ruslan Insanov
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE BAR IN LONDON? Parlour Bar, 40 Canada Square, E14, theparlourbar.co.uk The atmosphere here is incredible – you can feel it from when you first step into the bar. Bartenders here really smash it all the time: they're creative and give friendly service. You wanna stay here forever!
Keith Motsi
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE BAR IN LONDON? Portobello Star, 171 Portobello Rd, W11, portobellostarbar.co.uk; Trailer Happiness, 177 Portobello Rd, W11, trailerhappiness.com I love these two bars on Portobello Road. If you're lucky enough to catch co-owner Jake Burger at Portobello Star ask him to make you a Manhattan – his are probably the best in London (and he'll throw in a Jäger or two). Upstairs there's a Ginstitute where you have gin history lessons and make your own blend. Down the road is Trailer Happiness: rum, incredible music and all kinds of debauchery. Great Mai Tais, or – if you think yourself pirate enough – try one of the rum sharing cocktails.
PH: Dai Williams
Gergely Kovács
"I'm excited that Soho House is about to open in my home town, Istanbul; the building is absolutely beautiful. Although, in 2000 some of my university friends and I did try to occupy it. It was the American consulate then, and on the day the war in Iraq started we joined a big march to try and stop the war"
WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE BAR IN LONDON? The Pink Chihuahua at El Camion, 25-27 Brewer Street, W1, elcamion.co.uk More than 300 different tequilas and mezcals, fresh sangria with every shot (don't even dare to ask for salt and lime here), piles of frozen cocktails and funky music till late. A piece of the real Mexico, but no visa needed.
HOUSE TONIC 7
THE TREND
YOUNG TURKS' DELIGHT Coffee has always been central to Turkish culture, but the appearance of international chains has injected new life into its café scene. While old traditions are fiercely protected, new artisanal techniques are also being enthusiastically embraced
D
id you know that the Turkish word for coffee, kahve, is the root of our English word for it? Or that Istanbul was the hub through which coffee first travelled into Europe and then the Americas, from the 16th century onwards? In the past, coffee has been incredibly important to Turkey, but its popularity has taken a tumble in recent decades, with proper Turkish coffee sidelined by the influx of corporate coffee chains to major cities and the growing consumption of tea, or cay. Turkish coffee is a very different beast from the ubiquitous milk-based coffee offered in a tall paper buckets; it's served in tiny elegant china cups without being filtered, so after a few powerful and often sweet sips, you hit the dregs – a very fine silt of coffee grounds sitting in the bottom of your cup. Although Turkish coffee has never gone out of favour in Istanbul, in recent years it has been slightly overshadowed. Today, though, a new type of coffee has arrived in town. As well as many cafés newly championing traditional Turkish coffee, the so-called Third Wave of coffee has also hit the city. Just as it is in cities all over the world, Third Wave coffee is all about well-trained baristas using single-origin, freshly roasted, freshly ground coffee, and knowing where your cup of Joe has come from. 8 HOUSE TONIC
Third Wave cof fee in Istanbul
Traditional Turkish cof fee
GE YIK COFFEE ROASTERY & COCK TAIL BAR
FAZIL BE Y
As well as getting a good coffee, you can attend workshops and learn how to do it yourself here. Kılıç Ali Pasa Mahallesi Mahallesi, Akarsu Caddesi No.22/A
A lovely, tiny coffee shop in Kadikoy market on the Asian side of the water, which has been going since 1923. The coffee has a deep intensity without being overwhelming. Serasker Cad. No.1/A, Kadıköy Market
KRONOTROP Beans are freshly roasted on the premises each morning, and are also available to buy and take away. Yeni Çarsı Caddesi 5B, Galatasaray, Beyoglu
MANDABATMAZ Bang in the middle of town, and thus surrounded by encroaching international coffee chains, but still doing proper Turkish coffee very well. Istiklal Cad. Beyoglu
MOC ISTANBUL They do it all at this place, from drip siphons to cold-brew coffee and even barista training. Sakayık Sokak 4A, Nisantası
HEIRLOOM CAFE AND MARKET This is one of the few places in the city where you can get really good siphonmade coffee, as well as espresso. The pretty café is on the ground floor of a 19th-century building, restored and turned into a hotel in 2012. Adile Nasit Sokak 6, Cihangir
KURUK AHVECI MEHMET EFENDI One of the oldest coffee roasters in Istanbul and certainly the best known, this is where many coffee shops buy their coffee and there is always a queue down the street – the perfect vantage point for watching staff as they weigh and wrap bundles of coffee at lightning speed. Tahmis Sokak No. 66, Eminönü Soho House Istanbul opens this winter. Visit houseseven.com for updates
IN SEASON
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GRAPE EXPECTATIONS Who'd be a winemaker? From Chianti to Cloudy Bay, if you're not watching the weather you're checking for pests and diseases, with one eye always on potential price drops – which can come when you'd least expect them
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ate summer and autumn are tense times for anyone growing grapes. A crop you've nurtured all year long can be destroyed by a hailstorm lasting just a couple of minutes, as happened in Burgundy this July, or by birds, as happened in Richmond, London, in 2012. If you're really unlucky, marauding primates will get the lot – in 2010, winemakers in the Franschhoek valley, South Africa, had to stand by and watch as baboons driven out of their normal feeding grounds by bush fires ate their way through between two and three tonnes of fruit a week per vineyard, which would have been made into about 2,000 bottles of wine. Other risks include devastation by fungus, caterpillars, spiders and mildew.
opposite is true. A polar vortex swept through the region last winter, and for some growers, it killed all hope of harvesting any merlot grapes for 2014, and barely any sauvignon blanc, because the cold damaged many of the vines when they were still at the delicate bud stage. The harvest in California has also been a bit of an edgy one this year, because of dry weather during winter, so in contrast to the big harvests of 2013 (which fortunately means there's plenty of stock around to tide us over) 2014 hasn't been quite so good.
Even if you manage to reach harvest time, it's a tricky industry. For Spain, 2013 was a bumper grape-growing year, meaning that the government has recently had to step in and try to clear some of the backlog of wine by lowering prices for exports. With another healthy harvest forecast for this year as well, it's a stressful time for Spanish winemakers who don't want to find they've got so much wine that they can't sell it – although it makes it a great time to snap up Spanish bottles at bargain prices. Meanwhile in Ontario, the
Although you'd think that smaller wine production should make prices go up, that's not always the case – especially if there's loads around from the previous year. Take Chile, for example. Frosts and wildly varying temperatures hammered farmers' ability to grow a lot of grapes this year. But because there's lots of 2013 wine left in the tanks, and because exports to America are down around 19 per cent, Chilean wine may be about to get cheaper. Equally – and confusingly – more wine on the market doesn't always
make prices go down. New Zealand has had a brilliant year for growing, with the harvest 29 per cent up on last year, but because it's predicted to be an excellent vintage and because demand is still expected to outpace supply, don't expect top-end New Zealand sauvignon blancs, pinots or rieslings to come crashing down in price. Thankfully for those of us who want to drink wine, most grape producers are a determined and passionate bunch undeterred by the unpredictability of their calling – the best of them know it's a very long game. Vineyards produce the biggest fruit crop in the world, perhaps unsurprisingly when you consider that it takes roughly 700 individual grapes to fill a bottle of wine. We should raise a glass and give thanks for the people who do just that. Would you like to get behind one of Soho House’s bars around the world? Email housetonic@sohohouse.com or visit www.housetonic.com HOUSE TONIC 9
COCKTAIL COMPETITION
Bartenders line up to compete in Miami
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ST GERMAIN QUARTERLY COCKTAIL COMPETITION Every quarter, House Tonic holds cocktail competitions for all bar staff to enter, so that they can showcase their ability to create new cocktails as well as compete in speed rounds. This quarter the action took place in Toronto, New York and Miami, thanks to St Germain elderflower liqueur
B "It was great to see how much everyone had improved, and it was clear that everyone had been practising"
Photography by Vanessa Montoya and Mike Flood
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n the Toronto heats, the emphasis was on the history of St Germain and the elderflower itself – one contestant even infused St Germain with elderberries, for an intense elderflower hit. The competition started with a speed round, just for fun and to limber up before the serious shaking got underway, with four cocktails per bartender to be made, competing in pairs, against each other. To really bring flavour into focus, chef Eric Ting joined House Tonic's Kate Barry, Club manager Tamara Magalhes and bar manager Renata Clingen as a judge in the Pantry Bar. Meanwhile in Miami, the competition took place in the Club bar, watched over by bar manager Jack Colombo, Cecconi's bar captain Rick Nani and Kate Barry again. Eight competitors battled through 10 HOUSE TONIC
STOCK UP FOR AUTUMN the speed round and then moved on to their St Germain cocktails. This being Miami, the drinks were very fruit-forward and creative, with lots of refreshing top notes – perfect for the city's weather and setting.
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In New York's pantry bar Kate Barry was joined by bar manager Camille Austin, executive chef Wes Whitsell and Collin Appiah, Bacardi's trainer. “It was great to see just how much everyone had improved when it came to the speed round,” says Kate. “The standard was much higher than last time, with better speed and cleanliness, so it was clear that everyone had been practising.” Well done to the winners, who went home with very cool bartenders' kit bags, stuffed with bartending swag.
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1. St Germain 2. Bacardi 3. Grey Goose La Poire 4. Crème de violette
COCKTAIL COMPETITION
Miami winner Andrew Lue and his A Night in Hong Kong
ANDREW LUE WINNER – MIAMI A NIGHT IN HONG KONG 45ml/1.5 oz Grey Goose La Poire 20ml/0.75 oz St Germain 2 lemon wedges 2 cubes fresh Bartlett pear 2 pieces fresh jackfruit 15ml/0.5 oz simple syrup champagne to top jackfruit for garnish Shake all ingredients except champagne. Strain into coupe glass. Top with champagne and garnish with jackfruit.
GINA MARIE WINNER – NEW YORK CHATEAU SOHO 45ml/1.5 oz Bacardi 30ml/1 oz St Germain 20ml/0.75 oz pineapple juice 20ml/0.75 oz lime juice Crème de violette to float Combine all ingredients except for crème de violette. Shake hard and strain into a coupe. Float with crème de violette and garnish with a purple flower.
Gina Marie, NYC's winner
Would you like to get behind one of Soho House’s bars around the world? Email housetonic@sohohouse.com or visit www.housetonic.com HOUSE TONIC 11
HOUSE FESTIVAL
Just a few of the hundreds of staff on the day
Crowds at the close of the festival
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HOUSE FESTIVAL
Another sunny House Festival
Once again the sun shone on House Festival, as Soho House took over Marble Hill House for a day of great music and even better food Photography by Antonio Salgado
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s hundreds of Soho House staff prepared BBQs and platters of seafood, vendors from all over London, including the Wright Brothers, Smoke Stack and Rainbo, served up a seemingly bottomless buffet of fantastic bites. Our bar teams from across our Houses and restaurants joined forces to whip up thirstquenching Grey Goose cocktails: Grey Goose Le Fizz combined Grey Goose Original, St Germain, lime and soda; La Soiree was a refreshing mix of Grey Goose Le Citron with raspberry and lemon cordial, limoncello and soda; and La Picardie Cup was a blend of Grey Goose L’Orange with Martini Rosso, ginger beer and mint. Music-wise, The Feeling kicked off proceedings with a performance of some of their classic hits, and they were followed by an acoustic set from newcomer Luke Sital Singh. The line-up continued with electric sets from Jake Bugg, MNEK, De La Soul and 12 HOUSE TONIC
Hozier, before Festival favourite Kelis took to the stage for a high-energy performance, which included an a cappella rendition of Milkshake, and electro-duo Jungle delivered a storming set. Next, guests were treated to an incredible performance from Sam Smith, who had the crowd eating out of the palm of his hand as he serenaded them with Stay With Me. Brit favourites Paloma Faith and Charli XCX carried the party on into the evening with 30-minute sets of their biggest hits. Dizzee Rascal whipped the crowd into a frenzy with classics including Holiday and Bonkers as the sun finally set over Marble Hill House. A massive thank you to all our staff who worked House Festival for your energy and hard work – you nailed it! We are already looking forward to House Festival 2015.
Grey Goose cocktails
LIQUOR STORES
Barkeeper in Los Angeles
Accent on Wine
THE BEST LIQUOR STORES IN THE WORLD When it comes to making and serving great drinks, using the finest ingredients is key. So where in the world do Soho House's bartenders go to get their favourites?
Brian Stewar t, L A
Camille Austin, New York
Andrew Fisher, B ath
BARKEEPER
ASTOR WINE & SPIRITS
INDEPENDENT SPIRIT OF BATH
This is a craft bartender's and cocktail enthusiast's dream, filled with hard-to-find bottles and a staff that can tell you anything you want to know about the rarities on their shelves. The store is owned and run by Mr Joe Keeper, a man of legend around these parts. This place is well worth the 20-minute drive to Silverlake from my house – and since I live in LA, that is saying a lot. It also stocks quality barware and vintage glassware. 3910 W. Sunset Blvd., Silver Lake, Los Angeles, CA 90029, +1 323 669 1675, barkeepersilverlake.com
Astor not only has the biggest selection of wine and spirits in NYC, it also offers numerous masterclasses, tastings and seminars. And, each May, it's the hub of the Manhattan Cocktail Classic tasting rooms. 399 Lafayette St. (at East 4th St.), New York, NY 10003 +1 212 674 7500 astorwines.com Simon Ward, New Ze aland
Run by Chris Scullion and Christian Morrish, who only met in 2011, this is a tremendous shop with a great range of cocktail-grade spirits, single malts, wines, champagnes, cocktail equipment and a huge selection of world and craft beers. There's also a cosy tasting room, set around a Georgian fireplace. 7 Terrace Walk, Bath, +44 (0) 1225 340 636 independentspiritofbath.co.uk
ACCENT ON WINE
Mitchell Counsell, Berlin
K&L WINES If it's beer or wine that you are after then it's K&L Wines all the way. It has a great selection and equally great staff. If you need something and they don’t have it, give them three days and they will find it for you. 1400 Vine St, Hollywood, CA 90028, +1 323-464-9463, www.klwines.com
Accent has the best selection of international wines in New Zealand. The staff are very knowledgeable – they could (and would!) talk for days about all things wine. Its wine society is a great idea, delivering tasting dozens to members across the country, and introducing people to new things all the time. 347 Parnell Rd, Parnell, Auckland, New Zealand, +64 9 3582552, accentonwine.co.nz
WHISK Y UND WHISKE Y TABAK WARENGESCHÄFT Unsurprisingly, given its name, this wonderful little shop is all about whisky and cigars, with a terrifically good range of unusual malts and spirits to choose from. It's a great place to make a pilgrimage to. Ohlauer Straße 2, 10999 Berlin, +49 30 6125168, whiskyundwhiskey.de
HOUSE TONIC 13
MAKE YOUR OWN
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MAKE YOUR OWN DRINKS There's something so satisfying about making the ingredients for your cocktails – from ginger ale to nettle wine, home-made tonic water to DIY bitters. We asked some of our top bartenders and drinks writers Jeffrey Morganthaler, Marcia Simmons and Emma Christensen to tell us how it's done Main photographs by Steven Joyce 14 HOUSE TONIC
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f you've ever messed around with cordials, or thought about blending your own bitters, then you've come to the right place and you're bang on trend. Making your own cocktail ingredients lends an entirely new dimension to drinks (both alcoholic and non-alcoholic) and means you know exactly what goes into them – there are no preservatives or artificial flavours involved when you cook it all up in your kitchen. While some are more complex than others – vermouth takes a few weeks; nettle wine needs racking just like wine from grapes – there are plenty of recipes here to try, whether you're an expert or a novice. A couple of warnings before you get mixing: always use food-grade and food-safe alcohol when blending or infusing. Buy your herbs
MAKE YOUR OWN
and spices from reputable shops or websites and exercise great caution with ingredients that can be toxic, such as wormwood or elderberry wood. Be careful with ingredients such as cinchona, which contains quinine, because too much can be poisonous. If in doubt, get face-to-face, expert advice.
Jef frey Morganthaler Jeffrey Morganthaler is a bar manager in Portland, Oregon, but is known worldwide for his drinks writing, for Playboy and The New York Times among others. His blog is renowned among bartenders (jeffreymorganthaler. com), and is full of recipes for things like home-made grenadine and tonic water. He
has just published an excellent book about bartending, The Bar Book: Elements of Cocktail Technique (Chronicle Books). Here is his recipe for home-made gin.
How to make your own gin without a still There aren’t many spirits that inspire such passionate opinion as gin does. I know vodka drinkers who recoil in horror when confronted with a bottle of Tanqueray, and gin drinkers who would rather abstain completely than suffer through a vodka martini. But what many people don’t realize is that gin and vodka begin life in the exact same way. You could even say that gin is nothing more than infused vodka. In fact, I’ve used this
exact line on so many customers trying gin for the first time that I’ve decided to prove it to myself. What better way to waste a bunch of time and ingredients while simultaneously getting an opportunity to learn more about my favourite mixable spirit, right? In his book The Complete Guide to Spirits (HarperCollins, 2004), Anthony Dias Blue describes cold-compounding as a method for producing gin. He even provides a rough recipe for infusing a monster 2,000-litre batch. Not having access to a tanker truck of vodka or 100 lbs of juniper, I did a little maths and came up with something more workable. That first batch was a drinkable, yet superperfumed gin that I felt could be improved HOUSE TONIC 15
MAKE YOUR OWN
with a little trial and error. I won’t bore you with the details of my many failures before honing in on the recipe, but I will say that I’ve now got a liquor cabinet full of funky gins that may or may not ever be consumed. I’ve tried to limit the ingredients for this very basic gin for two reasons. First, I wanted to use only ingredients available in the bulk spice section of my local grocery store. Second, I wanted to provide you with a basic gin that could be easily expanded upon by you. I got fancy and bought a digital scale for this project, so use one for maximum accuracy if you own one, or just follow my crude conversions if you don’t.
HOME-MADE GIN Makes 1.5 litres/0.3 gallons 750ml/25 fl oz 50% ABV/100 proof vodka 750ml/25 fl oz 40% ABV/80 proof vodka 20g/0.75oz dried juniper berries (0.25 cup) 8g whole coriander, crushed (2 tablespoons) 2g dried orange peel (about 1.5 teaspoons) 2g dried lemon peel (about 1 teaspoon) 3g whole cinnamon (about 1 stick) 1 whole cardamom pod, crushed
Use a mortar and pestle – or a food processor pulsed in five one-second increments – to break up the coriander and cardamom before adding them to the other dry ingredients.
Emma Christensen Emma Christensen is the author of True Brews: How to Craft Fermented Cider, Beer, Wine, Saké, Soda, Mead, Kefir, and Kombucha at Home (Ten Speed). She is also recipe editor at theKitchn.com and has a brilliant blog: emmaelizabethchristensen.blogspot.co.uk. These recipes are both from her book.
ROOT BEER Makes about 2 litres/8 cups Root beer is tricky. True root beer is made with sassafras root, which is not only hard to find outside its growing region but also cannot be sold commercially. Sassafras contains a chemical, safrole, which was found to cause cancer in lab rats if consumed in large enough quantities and was subsequently banned by the FDA. You’d have to drink root beer like water to be at risk, but still. Bummer. I tried many different combinations of herbs, barks,
16 HOUSE TONIC
Once you’re certain that everything has been measured correctly, place the flavouring agents in a large resealable jar and add the whole bottle of 100 proof vodka. I use Stolichnaya 100, but there are a few options out there; just take a tour of your local liquor store and see what else you can come up with. Hang onto that bottle of 80 proof vodka – we won’t be using it until the very end. Place the jar in a dark, room-temperature spot for one week, and be sure to give the jar a good shake at least once a day. When the mixture is mature, it will look something like cold black tea. Yes, it’s got some colour to it, and that’s okay. In fact, this is exactly what many commercial gins look like before they’re distilled a final time. You don’t have a still at home, so you’re going to have to put up with a little tint to your gin. You’ll be fine. Taste it. It burns a little, right? Don’t forget that you’re running at 50% ABV/100 proof here. This is when we want to add that bottle of 40% ABV/80 proof vodka you’ve (hopefully) been saving. Taste it again. Better? Yeah. Next we’re going to take all that macerated fruit and herbs out of there, so we’re going to have to strain the mixture through cheesecloth. Wrest all the liquid you can from the wet ingredients – there’s going to be some vodka that just won’t want to let go. When you’re done you should be left with a mixture
roots and spices to mimic an all-natural root beer at home, but at the end of the day, you really need that sassafras root. Therefore, this is one recipe where I endorse the use of syrup to get the flavour just right. I particularly like Fermentap #1 Root Beer Syrup, but any you find will make a fine soda. Since different syrups can vary in sweetness, use less sugar to start and add more to taste. 500ml/2 cups water, plus more to fill the bottles 100-200g/0.5 to 1 cup, packed/4 to 8oz dark brown sugar 2.5 teaspoons root beer extract 1 teaspoon vanilla extract 40g/0.25 cup/1.3 oz raisins, coarsely chopped 1 star anise pinch of salt 0.125 teaspoon dry champagne yeast Bring the water to a simmer and remove from the heat. Add 100g/4 oz of the brown sugar,
that’s free from solids but (as we say here in the Pacific Northwest) still party cloudy. Enter the Brita pitcher/filter. Get yourself a £15/$20 Brita water filter, or if you already have one, just put in a brand new filter. We’re about to put your filter through the wringer. Note: be sure to follow the directions the fine folks at Brita have provided you with. Soak the new filter for a good 15 to 20 minutes, and then run several pitchers of water through it to activate that charcoal. You’re going to see a lot of sediment in that filter bowl, and that’s a good thing. Keep running your gin through the Brita – say, five times – and don’t forget to rinse out the bowl between every pass. Soon you will have a crystal-clear spirit ready for mixing. When you’re done, bottle your gin and start experimenting. Why not add some dried grapefruit peel to pair with a Negroni? Adding a single Kaffir lime leaf could be a nice way to add more depth to a Pegu. Throw in a couple more cinnamon sticks this winter and try an Alexander. A double dose of dried lemon peel in your gin for a souped-up Aviation, anyone? Here are some more suggestions for ingredients to add – in small quantities (think 1-2g per addition) – to flavour your next batch: Thai basil, cherry bark, whole nutmeg, coriander/cilantro leaf, arbol chilli, star anise, whole cloves or Indian sarsaparilla bark.
the root beer extract, vanilla, raisins, star anise and salt, stirring to dissolve the brown sugar. Let stand until cool. Strain the root beer syrup into a bowl and pour into a clean 2-litre bottle using a funnel. Top off the bottle with water, leaving at least 3cm/1 inch of headspace. Give it a taste and add more brown sugar, if desired. The extra sugar will dissolve on its own. Add the yeast. Screw on the cap and shake the bottle to dissolve and distribute the yeast. Let the bottle sit at room temperature out of direct sunlight until carbonated, typically 12 to 48 hours, depending on the temperature of the room. Check the bottle periodically; when it feels rock solid with very little give, it’s ready. Refrigerate overnight or for up to 2 weeks. Open very slowly over a sink to release the pressure gradually and avoid bubble-ups.
MAKE YOUR OWN
Edward Mandley, Babington House FRESH NET TLE AND GINGER COUNTRY WINE Makes 4.5 litres/1 gallon 250g 2 quarts young nettle tops 4.5 litres/1 gallon water 21g/0.75 oz root ginger, bruised 1-2 lemons depending on size, peeled, peel reserved 1.35kg/3lb granulated or caster sugar 1g white wine yeast 1 level teaspoon yeast nutrient You will need two 4.5 litre/1 gallon glass jars (demijohns)
PH: Paige Green, from True Brews
Pick the tops off the young nettles, rinse them in water, and drain. Simmer them in the water with the bruised ginger and lemon peel (excluding any pith) for 40-45 minutes. Strain. Pour the liquor over the sugar in a large container or clean bucket, adding the lemon juice and the yeast nutrient. Stir until the sugar dissolves, and when the liquor has cooled to 21ยบC/70ยบF, add the yeast. Keep the bucket covered in a warm place (not too hot and not too cold). After 4 days stir thoroughly and transfer the liquor to a fermentation vessel (demijohn) fitted with an air lock. When it begins to clear, rack off (pour gently, leaving the yeasty sediment in the bottom) into a fresh demijohn and leave for another three months. Rack once more if necessary, before bottling.
HOUSE TONIC 17
MAKE YOUR OWN
Andrew Lue, Soho Beach House Miami
Thomas Solberg, Shoreditch House
Tom Kerr, House Tonic
JACKFRUIT SYRUP
INDIAN TONIC CORDIAL
BERRY SHRUB
Jackfruit is native to Southeast Asia and the Caribbean. Being Jamaican and Chinese, I grew up eating jackfruit on many occasions. The jackfruit I used for my winning cocktail A Night in Hong Kong (see page 11) was grown in my grandmother's backyard. The fruit can grow up to 36kg/80lb in weight, and the flavour is a combination of apple, mango, pineapple, cantaloupe and banana.
Makes 1 litre/0.25 gallon cordial 650g/1 lb 7 oz caster sugar 1 litre/0.25 gallon water 3 tablespoons quassia bark chips 6 tablespoons citric acid 2 stalks lemongrass, chopped zest of a lime zest of a lemon 2 tablespoons onion chutney 1 scotch bonnet pepper (halved so the liquid will interact with the seeds) half a pineapple, skinned and diced half a mango, skinned and diced
5 punnets each of raspberries, blackberries and blueberries sugar to cover Aspall's red wine vinegar (for quantities, see method)
Makes approx 300ml/10 fl oz 4 cups fresh or canned jackfruit flesh 125ml/0.5 cup water 100g/0.5 cup white sugar Cut the jackfruit into 1cm/0.25in strips and set aside. Bring the water and sugar to a boil and make sure all the sugar has dissolved. Pour the hot syrup over the jackfruit in a heatproof container. Let it sit for at least one hour. Strain and store in a mason jar until ready to use.
Alex Adair, Soho House Toronto HOME-MADE VERMOUTH House-made vermouth is all about balance. First up are your bittering agents: wormwood is most common, but also the only one (out of the ones I'm listing) that is dangerous. My recipe doesn't use it because it's not really needed. Gentian, quassia bark and orris are all a similar bitter to quinine, which is used in tonic water. Ceylon cinnamon and dried orange peel are bitter, but flavourful. Next are your flowers: any flower used in a tea, such as camomile, can add a specific flavour to vermouth, and you have to play with these to find your own balance. The most important part of balancing flavour comes from herbs, spices, and sometimes dried berries: basil, sage, thyme, fennel, cardamom, rosemary, bay, ginger, allspice, anise, juniper and vanilla are all worth trying. Lastly, the bread and butter of vermouth: dry white wine, a grape-based spirit, and turbinado sugar. (If you don't have access to turbinado, super-fine white sugar works almost as well in a pinch.) 18 HOUSE TONIC
Bring the sugar and water to a boil until the sugar is completely dissolved, then reduce the heat to low. Add everything else, give a quick stir and simmer for 25 to 30 minutes. Cool, strain and bottle in sterilised bottles. Keep in the fridge. Top with soda for spicy tonic water.
Makes approximately 750ml/25 fl oz 1 bottle dry white wine 60ml/2 oz tawny 10-year-old port 60ml/2 oz VS cognac 3 split and scraped vanilla beans/pods 0.15 teaspoon gentian 0.15 teaspoon quassia bark chips 1 teaspoon dried orange peel 1 Ceylon cinnamon stick, broken in half 0.5 teaspoon each of: dried spearmint, anise seed, angelica root, dried camomile flowers, ground nutmeg 0.25 teaspoon each of: dried lavender, coriander seeds, dried centaury, dried sage, dried basil, dried lemon thyme 0.15 teaspoon each of: dried marjoram, crushed fennel seeds, crushed cardamom pods, fresh chopped rosemary 1.5 bay leaves, dried 3 allspice berries 2 whole cloves 4 juniper berries 4 elderberries, dried 2 hawthorn berries, dried 6 rose petals, dried 0.5 a star anise 1.5 teaspoon pine flowers (optional – pine flowers appear during the early development of a pine cone), dried
Place 5 punnets of raspberries, blackberries and blueberries in a plastic tub and lightly press the berries to break the skins and release some of the juice. Mix in some refined sugar – just enough to cover all the berries – and massage the sugar into the berries. Cover with clingfilm/plastic wrap and leave in the fridge for 3 days – the juices of the berries will be released. When the shrub is ready, take out of the fridge and strain the juice into an empty container and discard the leftover berries. You should be left with a thick syrup. Mix in the red wine vinegar to the syrup, calculating the quantity required by using the ratio of 10ml/0.3 fl oz of vinegar to every 100ml/3 fl oz of syrup.
150g/0.75 cup sugar, turbinado if possible, otherwise super-fine white two teaspoons of eucalyptus leaves, dried, and a teabag to put them in Infuse the port and cognac with one split vanilla bean for four days. Simmer and steep 250ml of the wine with all the herbs and spices listed from gentian to pine flowers, plus the remaining vanilla, for five to 10 minutes. Let the mixture cool to room temperature, then add the tea bag which you have filled with eucalyptus. Let infuse in a fridge for 12-24 hours. The longer it rests with the herbs the more flavour it takes on – too long and the stronger herbs take over. Strain the mixture slowly through a coffee filter (vanilla will make it through cheesecloth). Next, caramelise the sugar in a pan until light gold in colour. Meanwhile, in a separate pan, add the remainder of the wine to the infusion and bring to a gentle boil. When both are the same temperature, very carefully combine the two. Stir. Let cool and then add the infused port and cognac. For even better flavour, age in an oak barrel for two to five weeks, to taste.
MAKE YOUR OWN
Marcia Simmons Marcia Simmons is author of DIY Cocktails: A Simple Guide to Creating Your Own Signature Drinks (Adams Media), as well as a fascinating blog: diy-cocktails.com. Here she shares a couple of her favourite DIY bitters recipes from her book. Note: bitters are intended to be used in very small quantities, no more than a few drops at a time. Do not use more than this, because they are very high in alcohol.
DIY CHERRY BIT TERS Makes approximately 500ml/1.5 cups 230g/1.5 cups fresh cherries (or 100g/0.75 cup dried cherries) 250ml/1 cup 75.5% ABV/151 proof neutral food-grade grain spirit, divided 1 whole star anise, crushed 1 teaspoon fennel seeds 1 tablespoon lemongrass, cut in small pieces 1 vanilla bean, split and scraped 2 cardamom pods, crushed 1 teaspoon cut gentian root 1 teaspoon quassia chips 250ml/1 cup rye whiskey For the cherry flavouring: in a sealed glass jar, steep the cherries in 125ml/0.5 cup of the neutral grain spirit. For the spice mix: steep the anise, fennel, lemongrass, vanilla and cardamom in a different jar together with the remaining neutral grain spirit. For the bittering mix: steep the gentian root and quassia chips in the rye. Set all jars aside. After 10 days, strain the spice and bittering mixes through a sieve lined with cheesecloth and then through a coffee filter. Mix them in with the cherry flavoring. (Don't remove the cherries.) Let the combined mixture steep for an additional 11 days. Then, strain out the cherries and filter into a bottle for storage. Let rest one day before use.
HOUSE TONIC 19
MAKE YOUR OWN
Marcia Simmons
Andrew Fisher (Fishy), Babington House
DIY GR APEFRUIT BIT TERS
SPICED COL A
Makes approximately 500ml/2 cups zest from 1 grapefruit zest from 1 lemon 375ml/1.5 cups 50% ABV/100 proof vodka 0.5 teaspoon dried lavender blossoms 4 dried juniper berries 1 fresh sage leaf 0.5 teaspoon whole coriander seeds 1.5 teaspoons cut gentian root 65ml/0.25 cup light rum 50ml/2oz simple syrup (50:50 sugar and water)
To create our version of the Batanga (a cocktail with tequila and coke) we decided to make our own cola syrup. This idea for this was initially conceived by my predecessor, Dave 'The Hat' Gerrans, but has been tweaked by me and superstar bartender Matt Warder, who was also involved at conception phase. The cola syrup is at the heart of the mix but it is complemented by all the other ingredients. The Angostura adds depth and slight cinnamon notes, the ginger juice brings even more complexity and spice, while the Fernet-Branca has its own bittering edge to pull back on the sweetness of the syrup.
In a sealed glass jar, steep the grapefruit and lemon zest in vodka for 8-12 hours. Add all the other ingredients except for the simple syrup and let steep for an additional 10-12 days. Strain through a sieve lined with cheesecloth and then bottle by filtering through a coffee filter. Add simple syrup to the bottle, then seal and shake. Let rest for a day before use. (Recipe taken from DIY Cocktails)
L "Making your own cocktail ingredients lends an entirely new dimension to drinks and means you know exactly what goes into them"
Makes 700ml/23 fl oz 450ml/15 fl oz Cola syrup (the kind you use in a post-mix machine) 100ml/3 fl oz Angostura bitters 100ml/3 fl oz ginger juice 50ml/1.75 fl oz Fernet-Branca Mix all ingredients together.
Giulio Valdiserri, Café Boheme RICH SYRUPS ELDERBERRY AND PORT RICH SYRUP 250ml/8.5fl oz port wine 500g/1 lb 2 oz sugar handful of elderberries Simmer the port together with the sugar and the elderberries for 15 minutes. Strain, then wait until the mixture is cold and bottle in sterilised bottles.
ROSEMARY RICH SYRUP 300ml/10 fl oz water 600g/1 lb 5 oz sugar 1 bunch rosemary Simmer the water and sugar with the rosemary for 15 minutes. Strain, then wait until cold and bottle in sterilised bottles.
L AVENDER RICH SYRUP 300ml/10 fl oz water 600g/1 lb 5 oz sugar 4 heaped tbs dried lavender flowers
BABANGA COCK TAIL Below is the final recipe and as it is the Babington House version of the Batanga – I have named it the Babanga. The dehydrated lime wheel is cut from a whole lime and left in the pastry chef's proving oven overnight to strip it of its moisture. We dust them with icing sugar before drying them, to add an invisible sweet crust so you are left with an edible lime crisp for garnishing the drink. We have created the ultimate tequila and cola!
Simmer the water and sugar with the lavender for 15 minutes. Strain, then wait until cold and bottle in sterilised bottles.
35ml/1 fl oz Gran Centenario Plata tequila 30ml/1 fl oz house cola syrup 25ml/0.75 oz lime juice soda to top dehydrated lime wheel dusted with icing/ confectioner's sugar to garnish
EARL GRE Y-INFUSED TANQUER AY GIN
Shake everything except the soda and lime wheel with one cube of ice. Dirty pour into a highball glass filled with ice. Top with soda and garnish with the lime wheel.
Infuse 20 single amaretto biscuits in vodka for 5 days. Then double-strain the vodka and re-bottle it.
INFUSIONS CARDAMON-INFUSED BELVEDERE VODK A Put 2 handfuls of cardamon seeds into a bottle of vodka. Leave for three days to infuse, then strain.
Put 4 spoonfuls of Earl Grey loose leaf tea into a bottle and leave for 5 days, then double-strain the gin and re-bottle it.
AMARET TO BISCUIT-INFUSED GRE Y GOOSE VODK A
POPCORN-WASHED BOURBON Fill a large jar with popcorn, then top up with bourbon. Set aside for two days, then strain. Refill the jar with fresh popcorn. Leave for another two days, then strain and re-bottle the bourbon. Would you like to get behind one of Soho House’s bars around the world? Email housetonic@sohohouse.com or visit www.housetonic.com 20 HOUSE TONIC
HOUSE TONIC SUMMITS
Coffee tasting
Cocktail creating
House Tonic's Tom Kerr
HOUSE TONIC SUMMITS Every year, Soho House's bar managers and bar supervisors get together at a series of House Tonic Summits, where they work on how to make their teams and service even better than before. Globals bars manager Tom Kerr flew around the world to lead the sessions
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n the UK, the Summit took place in Shoreditch House. Topics covered included the House Tonic philosophy, custom-made glassware and speed of service. Head of coffee development Daniel Thompson and head barista Alice Nedin took the crew on a coffee tour, as well as letting them in on the changes that lie ahead for Soho House's coffees. Johan Ekelund from Sharp & Dapper, a gentlemen's accessories company, popped by to talk about dressing for success and behind-thebar body language, and Bacardi's Aaron Jones gave a presentation on taste and perception. The team also trialled the drinks in the new Soho House classic cocktail compendium – “Trying to get 19 bar managers to agree on over 30 cocktail recipes? Easy…” says Tom Kerr. They also got to work on new Bloody
Marys with Oli Blackburn from Grey Goose – it's a hard life, but someone has to do it. (See overleaf for some classic recipes.) Soon after, in America, bartenders and bar managers flew from New York and Miami to meet in Toronto for our North America East Coast Summit with Tom Kerr. This time the sessions included time with Ben Carlotto, Bacardi training manager, looking at the most valuable spaces behind the bar. The group set some important goals, such as never taking more than two steps to reach 99 per cent of what you need, and never having to switch hands before using a piece of kit. Other highlights included a run-through of the cocktail compendium and a brainstorm on the future fourth House Tonic cocktail.
"Trying to get 19 bar managers to agree on over 30 recipes? Easy..."
Would you like to get behind one of Soho House’s bars around the world? Email housetonic@sohohouse.com or visit www.housetonic.com HOUSE HOUSE TONIC TONIC 21 21
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CLASSIC SOHO HOUSE COCKTAILS House Tonic is currently developing a compendium of our classic drinks. Here's a sneak preview
ESPRESSO MARTINI 25ml/0.75 oz Kahula or Café Lolita 25ml/0.75 oz espresso 50ml/1.75 oz vodka Combine all ingredients in a shaker, add ice and shake aggressively to combine all. Strain into chilled cocktail glass and garnish with 3 espresso beans.
MINT JULEP
CAIPIRINHA
20ml/0.75 oz simple syrup (gomme) 50ml/1.75 oz bourbon 8-10 mint leaves crushed ice
1 brown sugar cube 1 whole lime (cut into cubes) 20ml/0.75 oz simple syrup 50ml/1.75 oz cachaça
Combine wet ingredients in a julep cup and hand clap the mint, then add. Add crushed ice and churn till mixed thoroughly and the outside of the cup has frosted. Garnish with mint sprig and some white sugar over the mint and ice.
Place the lime wedges in a shaker followed by the syrup and the sugar cube. Muddle the lime, making sure the sugar cube is crushed. Add cachaça and cubed ice, shake and dump all into an empty rocks glass.
TOM COLLINS CHAMPAGNE COCK TAIL 25ml/0.75 oz lemon juice 20ml/0.75 oz gomme syrup (simple) 50ml/1.75 oz gin top with soda water Build all ingredients in a collins glass and top with soda water. Make sure you use your bar spoon to mix the ingredients together. Garnish with a lemon wedge and a cherry through a pick placed on the glass.
1 brown sugar cube 3-4 dashes of Angostura bitters 15ml/0.5 oz cognac champagne top Dash the sugar cube with bitters several times until covered. Drop the bitterssoaked cube in a glass, pour 15ml/½ oz of cognac and top with champagne. Mist with lemon peel.
BR AMBLE MANHAT TAN
22 HOUSE TONIC
15ml/0.5 oz simple syrup (gomme) 20ml/0.75 oz lemon juice 50ml/1.75 oz gin 10ml/0.33oz crème de mure
4 dashes Angostura bitters 25ml/0.75 oz vermouth 50ml/1.75 oz Woodford bourbon
Build in a rocks glass with crushed ice and add all except crème de mure. Churn or swizzle all ingredients until thoroughly mixed and cap with more crushed ice. Drizzle the remaining crème de mure and garnish with 1 raspberry. Be sure not to over-pour the crème de mure because the drink will be too sweet and flow over the side.
For a perfect Manhattan add 12ml/½ oz each of dry and sweet vermouth, for a dry Manhattan add 25ml/¾ oz dry, for a sweet Manhattan add 25ml/¾ oz sweet. Add ingredients to mixing glass. Add ice and stir. Add fresh ice to keep chilling without over-diluting. Strain into a chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with an amarena cherry, lemon peel or nothing.
PH: Dai Williams
CLASSIC COCKTAILS
CLASSIC COCKTAILS
NEGRONI 25ml/0.75 oz gin 25ml/0.75 oz sweet vermouth 25ml/0.75 oz Campari
MARGARITA
Add all ingredients to a rocks glass, using a jigger to measure each. Then add ice and stir till the mixture has been chilled and mixed. Make sure to add fresh ice to cap the drink off. Mist with with orange peel (then discard) and garnish with an orange slice.
20ml/0.75 oz lime juice 25ml/0.75 oz Cointreau 50ml/1.75 oz blanco tequila Combine all ingredients in a shaker and combine with ice. Shake and strain into half salt-rimmed cocktail glass.
BOURBON SOUR (TR ADITIONAL)
MAI TAI
1 egg white 25ml/0.75 oz lemon juice 20ml/0.75 oz simple syrup 50ml/1.75 oz Bourbon
50ml/1.75 oz Appleton V/X Rum 20ml/0.75 oz orgeat syrup 15ml/0.5 oz Curaçao 25ml/0.75 oz lime juice 60ml/0.33 oz dark rum 5ml/0.125 oz Wray & Nephew rum
In large shaker tin place egg white. In a smaller shaker tin pour the rest of the ingredients and dry shake (no ice), to whip the cocktail. Add ice and shake again. Strain into sours glass and garnish with a drop of Angostura bitters.
Shake all the ingredients together with 1 ice cube, then slowly pour into a rocks glass filled with crushed ice. Garnish with a sprig of mint.
COSMOPOLITAN GIMLET 20ml/0.75oz Roses Lime Cordial 60ml/2oz Plymouth Navy Strength gin
40ml/1.3 oz Grey Goose Le Citron 20ml/0.75 oz Cointreau 15ml/0.5 oz lime juice 20ml/0.75 oz cranberry juice
Combine all ingredients in shaker tin, add ice, shake and strain cocktail into chilled cocktail glass.
Build all ingredients in a shaker, add ice, shake and strain into chilled cocktail glass. Garnish with flamed orange peel.
FRENCH 75 MOJITO 15ml/0.5 oz lemon juice 15ml/0.5 oz simple syrup (gomme) 25ml/0.75 oz gin champagne top Combine all ingredients except the champagne in a shaker tin, add ice and lightly shake, then strain. Don’t overshake to avoid diluting the drink. Pour into glass and top with fizz.
10 mint leaves, hand clapped 35ml/1 oz lime juice 25ml/0.75 oz brown simple sugar syrup 50ml/1.75 oz Bacardi Superior In a long glass add sugar and citrus then mint. Add the rum and crush iced and swizzle until a layer of ice builds up on the outside of the glass.
HOUSE HOUSE TONIC TONIC 23 23
DRINK BERLIN
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DRINK BERLIN One of the world’s finest nightlife destinations, Berlin is constantly adding to its extensive crop of independent bars and restaurants. We asked the team at Soho House Berlin for their favourite places to drink in the city
24 HOUSE TONIC
DRINK BERLIN
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BUCK AND BRECK
“Buck and Breck is an amazing cocktail bar in Mitte. With just 14 chairs round a table, it's pretty minimalist and hard to find. Stephen, the bartender, is an ex-Soho House Berlin mixologist and a beverage legend. It's widely regarded as one of the best cocktail bars in the world.” (Mike Ellis, general manager, Pizza East Shoreditch) Brunnenstraße 177, 10119 Berlin, +49 176 32315507, buckandbreck.com
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RUM TR ADER
“This is one of the best cocktail bars I know – like stepping back into the 1920s, with space for just 20 people. It's kind of a social club, but with the best drinks: the hot buttered rum is ace.” (Mike Ellis) Fasanenstraße 40, 10719 Berlin, +49 30 8811428, www.facebook.com/pages/ Rum-Trader
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SOHO HOUSE BERLIN Torstraße 1, 10119 Berlin, +49 30 4050440, sohohouseberlin.de
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MAIN HAUS AM SEE
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MONKE Y BAR AT 25 HOURS HOTEL BIKINI BERLIN “The
“A dive bar with some interesting characters (and occasionally a few Soho House staff!). It's open 24 hours and I have to admit I've stumbled out of here a few times at 10am. Ouch.” (Mike Ellis) Torstraße 125, 10119 Berlin, +49 28885826, mein-haus-am-see.blogspot.co.uk
Monkey Bar terrace in the Hotel Bikini is so called because – theoretically at least – you might be able to see a monkey in the neighbouring zoo from the roof. Or you could just focus on drinking that really good gin and tonic.” (House reception) 25hours Hotel Bikini Berlin, Budapester Strasse 40, 10787 Berlin, +49 30 1202210, 25hours-hotels.com
BAR TAUSEND
“This sleek and futuristic bar is under the railway and has a discreet entrance with a doorbell you have to ring to get in. The drinks and cocktails are great and the live music is awesome.” (Gabby Bull, House manager, High Road House) Schiffbauerdamm 11, 10117 Berlin, +49 30 27582070, tausendberlin.com
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WÜRGEENGEL
“This is my new favourite bar. It's in the Kreuzberg neighbourhood, Art Deco and very beautiful. Everyone who works here has many years of experience, and the service is outstanding. The host always wears a bow tie and a smile, and his moustache is perfectly groomed!” (Sam Neary, House reception) Dresdener Straße 122, 10999 Berlin, Germany, +49 30 6155560, wuergeengel.de
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PR ATER BIERGARTEN “Opened in 1837, this is the oldest biergarten – beer garden – in Berlin. It's huge, with pretty lights strung between the trees, and when the weather is fine it's always buzzing.” (Flavio Schneeberger, management trainee) Kastanienallee 7-9, Prenzlauer Berg, 10435 Berlin, +49 30 4485688, pratergarten.de NATHANJA & HEINRICH
“A great area to explore at night is Neukölln, next to the more celebrated Kreuzberg neighbourhood. The best road for bars is Weserstraße and one of the best spots is Nathanja and Heinrich – it's another very beautiful bar.” (Sam Neary) Weichselstraße 44, 12045 Berlin, nathanja-heinrich.de
TIER “A hipster-ish spot, but friendly and fun. Get in early if you want a seat – it's equally cool to drape yourself around the long bar.” (House reception) Weserstraße 42, 12045 Berlin REINGOLD
“A modern-day speakeasy and there is a definite 1930s-ish vibe in action. Look out for spins on classic cocktails such as the Negroni.” (House reception) Novalisstraße 11, Mitte, 10115 Berlin, +49 30 28387676, reingold.de HOUSE HOUSE TONIC TONIC 25 25
BACARDÍ
GRANDMASTER FLASH COMES TO SHOREDITCH HOUSE As part of our ongoing partnership with BACARDÍ, Grandmaster Flash took over the Shoreditch House rooftop and pool for a party to end all parties, with Old Cuban cocktails on hand to fuel everyone through the evening
OLD CUBAN The Old Cuban is our current seasonal cocktail. Ask for it at any of the Houses and in Dean Street Townhouse. 35ml/1.125 oz BACARDÍ 8 Year Old rum 2 dashes of Angostura bitters 4 mint leaves 30ml/1 oz Martini prosecco 20ml/0.75 oz sugar syrup 25ml/0.75 oz lime juice Put all ingredients except prosecco into a cocktail shaker. Add ice, shake hard and double strain into a coupette. Top with the prosecco. Garnish with one mint leaf.
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ollowing one of the busiest and hottest Saturdays of the summer, Shoreditch roof was packed out and buzzing for the complimentary members' party. Before Grandmaster Flash took over, DJ Paul Sethi got everyone off their loungers and dancing. Grandmaster Flash then opened his set with UB40, using his iconic turntablism to rock the house with hip-hop classic after classic. People danced by the pool, even in the pool, and quenched their tastebuds with four different BACARDÍ cocktails on offer from the specially constructed tiki bar, in between feasting on mini burgers fresh from the rooftop barbecue. Look out for more musical events at Shoreditch House by visiting houseseven.com. 26 HOUSE TONIC
Guests enjoying Grandmaster Flash
BACARDÍ
Grandmaster Flash
Grandmaster Flash BACARDÍ Menu
Speed was of the essence all night
BACARDÍ, ready for action
Would you like to get behind one of Soho House’s bars and work at brilliant events? Email housetonic@sohohouse.com or visit www.housetonic.com HOUSE TONIC 27
DRINKS NEWS
BACARDI TIKI AND CARIBBEAN COOLERS
DRINKS NEWS
Despite the pouring rain outside, House Tonic donned Caribbean shirts and sunglasses in Soho House London's basement as Aaron Jones from Bacardi Brown Forman joined us for an afternoon of Tiki and Carribean Coolers. Cheers to Aaron Jones for another great session and to Soho House for hosting.
CHASE TEA TRAINING Staff at Soho Beach House Miami should keep their eyes out for more training from Armando Parker, head barista, looking at tea. In his last brilliant session, he took the team through the Soho House tea family, from Masala chai and rooibos, to Earl Grey and English breakfast, explaining the plants that teas come from and how varying the ways the leaves from the same plant are processed can result in a totally different cuppa.
HOUSE TONIC AND PERONI DO ITALY House Tonic was lucky enough to be whisked away to Italy by Peroni Nastro Azzuro. By immersing ourselves in the culture, history (and food and drink) of the wonderful country we explored the history behind the brand, via Rome, Padova and Venice.
BERLIN House Tonic whisked two of our most passionate bar supervisors, Dominika Wozniak and Damian Szyjduk, off to Berlin to get to know German bar culture and to join a House Tonic training at Soho House Berlin focusing on herbs and spirit matching. They were then treated to a tour of bars manager John Kamal's favourite Berlin bars: Hotel Amano, Bon Bon and finally Buck and Breck.
House Tonic presented bartenders with their biggest challenge yet at the UK Chase Cocktail Competition: nine bartenders joined us for a mystery box competition and were given 45 minutes to come up with a cocktail based on a mystery ingredient, combined with at least 35ml/1 fl oz of Chase Elegant gin. Mari-Liis Lvov rolled into third place for her beautifully presented and well-balanced Brambley. Ivan di Giovanni received second place for his cleverly-executed Green Jedi. But Johnny Brissenden from Soho House wowed the judges and the audience with his slick performance and creative cocktail, winning automatic entry into the Chase Cup to represent Soho House at Chase's Rock the Farm food, drink and music festival. A big thank you to James Chase for joining us and for giving all the entrants tickets to the Rock the Farm as well!
TALES OF THE COCKTAIL Gina Kent from Soho House New York writes: “This year I had the honour of participating in the Cocktail Apprentice Program (CAP) at Tales of the Cocktail, the world's premiere cocktail festival, held annually in New Orleans. Forty applicants from around the world were chosen to develop their skills alongside 30 returning veteran bartenders. Together we were responsible for all the behind-the-scenes work for almost 100 seminars and all the official events throughout the week. We batched huge quantities of drinks, set spirits tastings, cut and assembled garnishes and delivered cocktails to thirsty crowds. In addition to the invaluable experience that comes from helping to run an event on such a massive scale, I learned about creative solutions (I've never shaken cocktails in a giant paint bucket before!), developed lifelong bonds with other CAPs, and discovered that I am capable of more than I think I am. All of this on very few hours of sleep, because not only were some evening events mandatory, they were also some of the best parties I've attended in my life. From a desert oasis complete with a camel and a carnival with Mardi Gras floats, to a dance party alongside shark tanks at an aquarium and dancing to Jay Z and Beyoncé next to about 100 of my new closest friends, who needs sleep? This opportunity has already begun to shape and change my life within Soho House and my city. I am more determined than ever to bring my best and beyond to help uphold the Soho House ethos, make improvements wherever possible, and – to borrow an unofficial CAP slogan – always, 'make it nice'.” 28 HOUSE TONIC
COFFEE CUPPING Head of coffee development Daniel Thompson and Origin Coffee Roasters hosted a staff coffee-cupping training session in Shoreditch House. A wide variety of ground coffee beans were assembled, ready to be to sniffed and slurped. Having the coffees lined up made it easier to distinguish between the tastes, from pungent and fruity, to soft honey notes and dark chocolate. Thanks to Origin Coffee Roasters for a very informative session.
Would you like to get behind one of Soho House’s bars around the world? Email housetonic@sohohouse.com or visit www.housetonic.com
MUSIC
Pins and Lois Macdonald, second left
WHAT I DRINK ON STAGE Lois Macdonald is guitarist of band Pins, who appeared at Shoreditch House as part of the House Sessions series of music events. Their latest album is called Girls Like Us. Head to wearepins.co.uk for their next tour dates and to houseseven.com to find out about upcoming sessions at Shoreditch
Before we go on stage, we usually have some red wine, specifically malbec, which I'm a bit of a fan of. It's a comfort thing really – we used to have other things on the rider but we wanted something relaxing and nice to drink. It's not that we get nerves, but rather that we've usually had to travel to wherever we're performing, and it's good to have a glass of wine and a snack and a sit down. We all re ally like cups of te a. It's not so hard finding decent tea when touring, but it can be hard to find cold milk to go in it. In continental Europe we drink a lot of coffee, because it's just so nice there. In Italy we gorge on macchiatos and americanos. I've even got one of those hexagonal pot things. But mostly I'm all about the tea. If I put on a jacket for the fir st time in six months ,
I usually find a tea bag in the pocket. I know more about tea than any drink. I take teabags on holiday with me – normal English breakfast, green tea and camomile. It's down to my mum – she'll have the kettle on before you've even finished the last cup. I think she put cold tea in my bottle. I have cut down to just a couple of cups a day, from six, unless I'm stressed. Or it's cold. Then I'm back up to five or six again. I drink a bit of cider. It's the right kind of drink for the beginning of the evening in a pub. I used to work in a real ale pub in Manchester called the Marble Arch, and I got a bit of a taste for cider and ale then, so much so that I had a barrel of vivid, bright orange Cheddar Valley cider for my last birthday. Home brewing is fun. I made a Belgian-style beer recently, which happily didn't explode but
was maybe a bit too sweet. My brother drank rather a lot of it while I was away. If I had my own beer made, I'd go for a lambic. Next, I want to try home-brew wine. I like a challenge. I might try making sloe gin this winter. If we threw a par t y, we'd definitely get a frozen margarita machine. We all got into the frozen margaritas at SXSW this year, so much so that we thought about getting a band machine. They're just boozy lime slushies. We'd decorate them with some gold sparkles and leave it at that. We'd love that.
Join the team behind one of Soho House's bars and work at events with our guest bands and DJs. Visit housetonic.com for more information HOUSE TONIC 29
RISING STARS
HOUSE TONIC RISING STARS Every quarter, we celebrate the unsung heroes of Soho House's drinks team. All hail the stars of the bars!
ENRICO BETTIO Pizza East Kentish Town Nominated by Tomasz Idzior
BENJAMIN JEAN PARRA Pizza East Shoreditch/Concrete Nominated by Rory Martin
THEA CHARD Soho House New York Nominated by Camille Austin
Enrico has only been with us for a
Benjamin started at Pizza East about
Thea has been with us for about
couple of months, yet he is fast
a year ago as a bar-back. Back then,
five months and has quickly proven
becoming one of the top barmen in
he didn’t talk very much, just kept his
herself an integral part of the team.
Kentish
very
head down and got the job done. Now,
She is thorough and has a passion
charismatic guy, with great cocktail
working on the bar as a bartender, he
for writing. Who better to be newly
knowledge, always helping with fresh
loves learning new things, from coffee
appointed House Tonic Ambassador
ideas for the cocktail list and always
to cocktails, and showing off what he
for NY? Thea recently attended the
with a smile on his face. An all-round
knows to guests and other bartenders.
East Coast House Tonic Summit and
talent.
Seeing him improve and progress
promises to bring a detailed touch to
every day is a real pleasure.
the SHNY bars.
Town.
He
is
a
MATTEO ROMANO Pizza East Portobello Nominated by Damian Szyjduk
GREGORY PUJOL High Road House Nominated by Marco Pettorossi
MARTA BARBAGLIA Shoreditch House Nominated by Kamil Zajac
MARK VARGA Electric House Nominated by Marco Spagnolo
Matteo has already risen from kitchen
Since he started he has always had
Marta is strong, quick, and efficient.
Mark became part of the bar team
porter to bar back, and then he rose to
a good attitude, always willing to
She adds quality to our drinks as well
nine months ago and since day one
the top when he won our in-house
use his muscles, always motivated to
as improving our speed of service.
has proved to be a great addition.
cocktail competition by concocting a
learn more and more. He is a great
She's a really reliable, well organised
He
drink that is both personal and site
addition to my beloved bar team and
and highly motivated member of crew.
bartender, always working hard with
specific, while being amazingly tasty!
everybody just loves him.
She is not a star – she is a superstar.
a enthusiasm and eagerness to learn.
LUIGI TOTARO Soho House Berlin Nominated by Mitch Counsell
JORGE GUZMAN Soho Beach House Nominated by Arnaud Espineira
MATTEO ABACLAT Soho House London Nominated by Erdem Kayalar
ALEX ADAIR Soho House Toronto Nominated by Renata Clingen
Luigi is a barman who is showing real
Jorge has recently been promoted to
Matteo joined our team as a bar-back
Alex was recently promoted. He is an
promise. He has a great work ethic, is
Tiki head bartender. He had shown
and ever since then he has worked
incredible self-starter with bar tasks,
cool and calm and worships Zen. He
a lot of passion, organization and
hard with a “Yes, Yes, Yes” ethos and a
does most of our syrups and pre-
has a bright future in Soho House.
commitment to our bar program.
genuine smile on his face all the time.
batching, helps monitor bar stock and
He is a real rising star. Keep up the
is big part of inventory. Overall, he's a
good work Matteo!
fabulous asset to the team.
Would you like to get behind one of Soho House’s bars around the world? Email housetonic@sohohouse.com or visit www.housetonic.com 30 HOUSE TONIC
has
gone
from
barback
to
PH: MICHELE ARDU
DO YOU WANT TO WORK BEHIND OUR BARS? With sites in London, Somerset, Miami, Los Angeles, New York, Toronto, Chicago and Berlin, plus more on the way in Istanbul and London, the Soho House Group is always on the lookout for exceptional staff. We offer high-quality training and excellent support, and you might even get the chance to work in venues overseas. We want to help you develop a great career in drinks. If you'd like to join one of our bar teams in Europe or the United States then please get in touch by visiting www.housetonic.com or email housetonic@sohohouse.com. We'd love to hear from you! You can also find us on Facebook, Twitter and Instagram. HOUSE TONIC 31
THE OLD CUBAN CREATED BY AUDREY SAUNDERS A TWIST ON THE CLASSIC MOJITO - ENJOY AGED RUM AND MINT WITH AN EFFERVESCENT FINISH. AVAILABLE IN EVERY HOUSE BETWEEN SEPTEMBER & NOVEMBER. TO SEE HOW TO MAKE THIS COCKTAIL GO TO WWW.HOUSETONIC.COM
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