Footprints - howies Spring 2009 by howies®

Spring 2009 | 1

2 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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Paul is a surfer. That's his thing. His love. When there's a good swell, the Print shop prints a lot less T-shirts. Not a great business model. Unless the business model is about how we make the business work for our people every bit as much as how our people work for the business. Don’t get me wrong; sometimes it’s a pain. Over time Paul had got a surf team together, but it would always be the bike team and skate teams that would go off on tour. Leaving the surf team behind which wasn’t so swell. So when I said we wanted to visit factories for this footprints catalogue, Paul suggested we visit our Portugal factory. By pure coincidence (or so he says), the surf is good over there. So they set off to visit our factory over there. And, if they got lucky, they would get some surf in too. They got lucky. And while they were off in the sunshine, David Hicks was looking at our footprints, unfortunately for him, not in the sand. Some of the information we started to get back, we didn’t like. It was uncomfortable to hear. The truth is like that sometimes. It doesn’t take into account your good intentions. It told us that unless you can measure things, you can’t improve on them. The first three letters of the word assumptions tells you what they can make of you. That said, here’s to a company that is trying to make things in a lower impact way. And here’s to a company that understands it has a good ten years of hard work to get there. And, finally, here’s to a company that prints less T-shirts when the swell is good. David Hieatt Co-founder of howies As I write, James is on a train (12 days) to China to take some pics of our jeans factory.

4 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

Call 01239 614 122 | www.howies.co.uk

Spring 2009 | 5

6 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

Call 01239 614 122 | www.howies.co.uk

Spring 2009 | 7

8 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

Call 01239 614 122 | www.howies.co.uk

10 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

Call 01239 614 122 | www.howies.co.uk

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Nedster ripstop jacket Organic cotton ripstop jacket updated from 2007 with new colours and new fabric. Fastened with an inner zip and outer buttons. Two chest pockets and two vertical hand pockets. Adjusted with buttons at the hem and cuffs. Black (main picture), thyme, breton blue | S, M, L, XL, XXL | Relaxed fit | Organic cotton ripstop | Machine wash | Made in China | Price ÂŁ100

An ode to a surfer’s soul arch

12 | Men’s jeans

The soul arch is seen by some as a functional element of style, and is dismissed by others as a flamboyant indulgence. I see the soul arch as a functional expression of a surfer’s joy. I believe it helps the surfer connect with the soul of the wave as well as sections of a ridden wave itself. Call 01239 614 122 | www.howies.co.uk

Dawn patrol. Hump backed pulses of energy are moving toward you from the horizon. All is calm. Sound is muted. You push through the faces of one, two – three waves and they spill and track behind you. The trail of the low sun finds form in the water, colouring it golden to purple. The curvature of the swell reveals itself as you spear through three more unbroken faces into the wilderness beyond. You’re alone now at the point where the clear water meets the foam on the surface of the water, directly above where a rock nestles unseen in the nub of a gently sloping bank of sand. You sit and breathe and stretch. Questions cloud your perception of the morning. Does the soul exist as an observable phenomenon? Is it a phantom – a cipher for the essential element of everything? Does the fact that it is possible to conflate the words ‘soul’ and ‘surfer’ mean that what you are doing is something truly special? What is a soul arch? Does it connect the body with the wave via the soul? The horizon darkens again. The questions fall away and you make some instinctive calculations. You dig in hard with your right hand; sit upright for a moment, swinging the nose ninety degrees toward shore.

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Paddling quickly now toward the beach you are falling and the board is lifting beneath your feet and spray is distorting everything but the speed of the wave. Weighting your inside rail you thrust your hips forward and arch your back. The bowl-like area of water around you steepens and morphs to a liquid wall the colour of honey. You stand tall like this for a fraction of a moment â&#x20AC;&#x201C; before you race down the line tucked into trim. That moment, the first ridden instance of the morning, is burned into your cortex like a bullâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s brand. An answer to those questions settles into your being as you paddle out again. Even if the soul does not exist, the soul arch exists in itself. Words: Michael Fordham Illustration: Nick Radford

14 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shorts

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Kick back shorts Regular fit chino style shorts. Button waistband with zipper fly. Two slanted front pockets. Two rear jet pockets. Inside leg measures 28 inches long on all sizes. Petrol, dove grey, dark khaki | 30, 32, 34, 36, 38 | Regular fit | Organic cotton twill | Machine wash | Made in China | Price ÂŁ50

16 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shorts

Corporation shorts Regular fit shorts. Button waistband with a zipper fly. Two front slanted hand pockets. One rear flap pocket on the left hand side. One buttoned welted pocket on the right hand side. Dove grey, dark khaki (main picture) | 30, 32, 34, 36, 38 | Regular fit | Organic cotton twill | Machine wash | Made in Portugal | Price ÂŁ65

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18 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trousers

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Big Ed trousers Flat front trousers with slanted front pockets. Button waistband and zipper fly front. Two rear jet pockets. Shaped rear yoke detail. Dove grey, chocolate (below), nut (main picture) | 30, 32, 34, 36, 38 (regular and long) | Loose fit | Organic cotton twill | Machine wash | Made in China | Price ÂŁ65

20 | Men’s shirts

Knot shirt Short sleeved shirt with a full button front. Made from crisp organic cotton poplin. One chest pocket. Hanging loop detail at the back yoke. Button featured cuffs and shaped hem. Poppy (stripe), gunmetal (check), breton blue (stripe) | S, M, L, XL | Slim fit | Organic cotton | Machine wash | Made in Portugal | Price £55

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Vincent shirt Long sleeved full buttoned shirt. Made from crisp organic cotton poplin. The sleeves have a tab so you can wear the shirt with the sleeves rolled up. Two chest pockets. Hanging loop detail at the back yoke. Epaulettes on the shoulders. Shaped hem at bottom of the shirt. Breton blue (stripe – top and main picture), poppy (stripe), gunmetal (check) | S, M, L, XL | Slim fit | Organic cotton | Machine wash | Made in Portugal | Price £65

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22 | Men’s jeans

Portugal’s international reputation usually orbits such things as wine, port, olives, fish, cork, and holidays. Being half Portuguese, to me it also means cold beer, Catholicism, gossipy old women in black, beautiful young women in bikinis, and the Azorean islands. In all, a fairly traditional picture. However, my work in renewable energy makes me proud of the moves the nation has made in the direction of a low carbon energy system.

The country is blessed by geography and climate, having a long, windy coastline, strong rivers and hot sun, giving it a huge natural endowment of wave, wind, tidal and solar power. They now have a target to produce 45 per cent of their electricity from alternative sources by 2015, and facilitate it with various incentives, including a guaranteed price for the energy fed into the grid (a feed-in tariff), investment subsidies and tax reductions. That it has no fossil fuels of its own, nor expertise with nuclear energy, is becoming the best thing that ever happened to the country. The world’s biggest solar park is found in Amareleja, in the Alentejo region, which will be nearly double the size of Hyde Park and supplies energy for 30,000 homes. The world’s largest wind farm is under construction in the hills near the Spanish border, and when currently planned wind farms are all completed, they will power around 750,000 homes. Wave power is expected to supply energy to around 450,000 homes when planned investments are deployed along the coast. New technology (made in Scotland) is currently being tested in the Porto area.

The clean energy transition in Portugal is expected to create around 10,000 jobs, jobs which should stay in the country. Call 01239 614Mondonça 122 | www.howies.co.uk Germany, Spain and Denmark Words: Miguel

are all world leaders in renewable energy, but we can expect increasing competition in global markets from China, Japan, India and the United States. The election of Barack Obama came with the promise of five million new ‘green collar’ jobs in the coming years. When leaders lead by example, and profit, others follow. The kind of revolution that we need, on a global scale, will be led by examples of what works. Portuguese focus and determination on renewable energy – and on energy efficiency – is just such an example. They pulled out the stops, and that is what it will take. The faster we make climate and environment protecting activities normal, everyday things, the sooner we will get the snowball effect – everyone is at it, because society has chosen that path. Think of the industrial revolution, or the telecommunications revolution. Societies around the world are able to use the latter to share ways of overcoming the multiple problems created by the former. The year 2009 is likely to be another breakthrough year on all these fronts. There are now too many people around the world working on solving these problems for it to be otherwise. When the solutions create jobs and industry too, that speaks loudly to voters and politicians. Watch this space.

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The wind of change

24 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s baseball jeans top & trousers

Made for dusk

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As the sun sets and the temperature drops, here is a polo that will keep that early evening chill away. That’s because it is made from the finest New Zealand Merino wool, but you wouldn’t know it from looking at it.

Tripster polo shirt A great casual Merino wool polo shirt suitable for travelling around, biking and just doing everyday stuff. Left hand chest pocket. Made from 100% Merino wool. Z-que accredited. Merino wicks moisture and regulates your temperature. It doesn’t itch and it feels really nice next to your skin. Grey stripe | S, M, L, XL | Regular fit | 100% Merino wool | Machine wash | Made in Fiji | Price £70

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26 | Men’s baseball top & trousers

Slugger t-shirt A new baseball shirt. Made from plain single jersey fabric with sleeves in contrast colour and body in white. Straight hem. Light grey howies embroidery above hem. Fern green, breton blue (main picture) | S, M, L, XL, XXL | Regular fit | Organic cotton | Machine wash | Made in Turkey | Price £30

Westerlies trousers New reinforced canvas jeans. Button waistband and fly. Double belt loops. Coin pocket. Slanted hand pockets. Articulated knees for extra movement. Adjustable rear popper waistband. Rear pockets with button down flaps. Reinforced seat panel. Dark khaki, gunmetal (main picture) | 30, 32, 34, 36, 38 (regular and long) | Loose fit | Organic cotton canvas | Machine wash | Made in China | Price £85

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28 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jacket

Humbug jacket Based on a classic baseball jacket shape with ribbed cuffs, hem and collar. Stripey body panel and solid colour sleeves. Fine gauge knit which has a soft and smooth hand feel. Dark khaki (dove grey), dove grey (electric blue) | S, M, L, XL | Relaxed fit | Organic cotton | Hand wash cool | Made in China | Price ÂŁ80

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Stoker jeans Classic slim fit, five pocket jeans. Eco-ball washed. Button waistband and fly. Coin pocket. Two front hand pockets and two rear patch pockets. Triple needle stitched on the inside and outside leg. Indigo | 30, 32, 34, 36, 38 (regular and long) | Slim fit | 12oz organic denim | Machine wash | Made in China | Price ÂŁ75

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Illustration: Chester Bigglesworth

30 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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Know thy enemy Making our products uses this much energy:

Bringing our products to you from our factories around the world consumes this much energy:

Washing and ironing our products uses this much energy:

As a company that wants to find the lowest impact way to make its quality clothing, that long red line needs all our energy. We have to start designing products that need to be washed less. It might take us some time. But at least we know who the enemy is. Percentages based on 52 washes at 60ยบ for a pair of underpants.

32 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jumpers

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34 | Hand-Me-Down jackets

Hand-Me-Down Contract We live in times of limited resources but unlimited desire to consume them. The answer though is real simple: to consume less as a consumer; to make a better designed product as a manufacturer. Going forward we will have to take more responsibility for our consumption. The manufacturer and the consumer will both have to share that responsibility. We live in interesting times

Hand-Me-Down jacket Based on our classic Pilot jacket. Made in the UK from organic Ventile, which is woven so tightly that it is water resistant by construction. Classic styling, timeless design, made to last. See the hand-me-down website for more info and pictures; hmd.howies.co.uk There is a limited edition 'warm' version with an organic tweed lining made for howies by the Ardalanish Tweed Weavers on the Isle of Mull. Men’s (S, M, L) Price £400 Women’s (10, 12, 14) Price £400 There is also a lighter-weight version for spring with a lining made from organic cotton. Men’s (S, M, L, XL) Price £275 Women’s (8, 10, 12, 14, 16) Price £275 Women’s jacket has a back vent for articulation. Men’s jacket has an articulated sleeve. Charcoal | Regular fit | Ventile & organic cotton |

Call 01239 614 122 | www.howies.co.uk Machine wash cold | Made in UK

From where we stand as a manufacturer, a product that keeps working for longer uses less resources in the end. The key ingredients to this are quality and good design. To make something well, you know, the best you can do, means going that extra mile. Every stitch, every zip, every little feature considered. The weakest points made strong. Then, and only then, can we say that we have fully understood the responsibility of making something. This product is guaranteed for a minimum of 10 years from the date of original purchase. The chances are it will last a good deal longer than that. So now you have to decide whom you’d like to hand this product down to. Err…

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Left and above detail from the 'warm' version of the hand-me-down jacket with an organic tweed lining made for howies by the Ardalanish Tweed Weavers on the Isle of Mull.

36 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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Spring 2009 | 37

Tripster polo shirt A great casual Merino wool polo shirt suitable for travelling around, biking and just doing everyday stuff. Left hand chest pocket. Made from 100% Merino wool. Z-que accredited. Merino wicks moisture and regulates your temperature. It doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t itch and it feels really nice next to your skin. Night, brown | S, M, L, XL | Regular fit | 100% Merino wool | Machine wash | Made in Fiji | Price ÂŁ65

38 | Men’s jeans

Back in 2000, I fell in love with Merino. I loved its function, its quality and most of all that nature provided it. And because it came from the land, one day after it had come to the end of its day, it could return to the land too. I was sold. I still am. It was my answer to all those petrochemical base layers out there, which I know from using them, just don’t do what the packaging says they do. (Nice packaging though.) Around a year ago, we started a project to find out what the footprint of each of our products was.

And the truth of it is we didn’t like some of the results. Moving the production of Merino from New Zealand to Fiji a couple of years ago to save a few pennies had increased our carbon footprint many fold. And we didn’t even know. What we had not been aware of was that the fibre goes from New Zealand to China by boat to be made into yarn, and then the yarn goes back on the boat to New Zealand to be made into fabric. Then it goes off to Fiji to be made into our garments. Once made it then goes back to New Zealand before it is flown onto LA. Then to London. Then finally to Cardigan. No matter how you looked at it, it didn’t make for good reading.

David Hicks sat in front of a computer collating the data, and also working out what it meant. To find out the truths and That said, Merino is a truly great Call 01239 122assumed. | www.howies.co.ukproduct. The best there is. not just what614 we had

And because we use the highest grade that we can find, ours has a great reputation. And regularly wins the awards against all the big boys. But making it right now in Fiji doesn’t fit with our aim to produce the lowest impact clothing that we can. That hurts. But the truth isn’t always what you want it to be. So we have to change. So right now, we are looking into spinning the yarn in New Zealand and making the garment there. If we can’t, then it makes more sense to make the garment in China rather than Fiji. Doing that would mean each Merino product would travel 17,181 km less miles per garment. And this would cut our carbon footprint down by 95% (down to 0.12kg). Only when you can measure something can you improve it. A hard lesson learnt.

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The worst CO2 figure in our range is Merino. A long sleeve NBL generates 2.60 kg of CO2 from fibre to delivery in Cardigan, and the product travels 45,809 km in total. The supply chain is: Fibre from Southern Alps, NZ. Goes to China to be made into yarn. Back to NZ to be made into fabric. On to Fiji to be cut & sewn. To the UK via Auckland and LA. Then London to Cardigan.

40 | Men’s jumper

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42 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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1 Scramble trousers Made from organic cotton ripstop. Panelled knee detail and reinforced rear hem. Button waistband and fly. Welt coin pocket. Slant thigh pockets and rear pockets with button down flaps.

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44 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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I'd like to coin a new phrase. Have you ever been faced with a problem and, in desperation, you've tried to solve it quickly only for that quick fix to actually make the problem ten times worse? No? Oh. Well, for those of you that have you must bow at the feet of Thomas Midgley Jr, the man accredited with having "more impact on the atmosphere than any other single organism in Earth’s history". When charged with the problem of how to lubricate car engines he suggested adding lead to petrol. And when asked how to make aerosols more efficient, he suggested chucking in some CFCs. This double whammy led to two environmental problems of Ferris Bueller proportions. He may not have known what he was doing but that's still a fair kick in the chops for old Mother Nature. Midgley isn't around anymore but there are still those who, in desperation to solve a short term problem put the environment at long term risk. You wouldn't exactly call them “tree-huggers” I suppose. The thing is if we find these Midgleys and try to make them see the error of their ways, try to let them know that all they are doing really is creating a much bigger problem for future generations then maybe we can stop them. They may never end up hugging a tree but they might at least consider shaking hands with a plant.

Words: Ben Harris Illustration: Paul Ryding

46 | Men’s jeans

Stoker selvedge jeans Slim fit, five pocket selvedge jeans. howies cyan blue selvedge. Button waistband and fly. Selvedge coin pocket. Two front hand pockets and two rear patch pockets. Triple needle stitched on the inside and outside leg. howies cyan blue chain stitch detail at the hem. Dark unwashed denim | 30, 32, 34, 36, 38 (regular and long) | Slim fit | 13.5oz organic plantation selvedge denim | Machine wash | Made in China | Price £160

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PD polo shirt Organic cotton | Regular fit | Price £40

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48 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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50 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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Woodstack jeans Carpenter style jeans with reinforced knee panels. Hammer loop detail on the leg with a single carpenter style pocket. Double belt loops. Button waistband and fly. Coin pocket. Two front patch pockets. Two rear pockets with flap closure. Indigo | 30, 32, 34, 36, 38 (regular and long) | Loose fit | 10oz organic denim | Machine wash | Made in China | Price ÂŁ85

52 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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Kaizen 08 jeans Regular fit selvedge denim. Plantation dyed with natural indigo. Organic selvedge denim with howies unique cyan selvedge. To ensure these jeans age beautifully, wear as long as you possibly can before washing â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it will be worth it. Dark unwashed denim | 30, 32, 43, 36, 38 (regular and long) | Regular fit | 13.5 oz organic plantation selvedge denim | Machine wash | Made in China | Price ÂŁ160

54 | Selvedge jeans

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Selvedge is made on old-style shuttle looms AND has a natural edge AND doesn't fray. This means that all the fabric is used (so no wastage).

WE guarantee if you follow these rules you will never buy or wear any other type of denim again.

Turn ‘em up to flash a bit of selvedge edge.

Never ever tumble-dry and avoid ironing when dry (this is also a good rule for life).

Iron them while they're still damp to keep A shiny look.

After washing, stand on one end and pull on the other giving them a good stretch.

Wash ‘em cold, inside out.

Only wash them when they start to stink.

Wear ‘em and wear ‘em, then wear ‘em some more.

Yeah they’re a bit stiff. So first you’ve got to break them in.

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56 | Men’s jeans 2

1 Drover grey jeans Classic regular fit. Five pocket jeans. Button waistband and fly. Coin pocket. Two front hand pockets and two rear patch pockets. Dark grey stitching. Triple needle stitched on the inside and outside leg. Eco-ball washed for softness. Dark grey | 30, 32, 34, 36, 38 (regular and long) | Regular fit | 12oz organic denim | Machine wash | Made in China | Price £80

2 Drifter jeans Classic loose fit, five pocket jeans. Button waistband and fly. Coin pocket. Two front hand pockets and two rear patch pockets. Triple needle stitched on the inside and outside leg. Eco-ball washed for softness. Indigo | 30, 32, 34, 36, 38 (regular and long) | Loose fit | 12oz organic denim | Machine wash | Made in China | Price £75

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3 Hard Knock jeans Regular fit, five pocket reinforced jeans. Button waistband and fly. Coin pocket. Two front pockets. Two reinforced back pockets with popper closure. Reinforced knee and hem. Triple needle stitched on the inside and outside leg. Eco-ball washed for softness. Brown | 30, 32, 34, 36, 38 (regular and long) | Regular fit | 99% organic cotton, 1% Polyurethane | Machine wash | Made in China | Price £85

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4 Kaizen 08 jeans Regular fit selvedge denim. Plantation dyed with natural indigo. Organic selvedge denim with howies unique cyan selvedge. To ensure these jeans age beautifully, wear as long as you possibly can before washing – it will be worth it. Dark unwashed denim | 30, 32, 43, 36, 38 (regular and long) | Regular fit | 13.5 oz organic plantation selvedge denim | Machine wash | Made in China | Price £160

5 Drover jeans Classic regular fit, five pocket jeans. Button waistband and fly. Coin pocket. Two front hand pockets and two rear patch pockets. Triple needle stitched on the inside and outside leg. Eco-ball washed for softness. Indigo | 30, 32, 34, 36, 38 (regular and long) | Regular fit | 12oz organic denim | Machine wash | Made in China | Price £75

All our jeans now have a recycled leather patch.

58 | Men’s sweats

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60 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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Spring 2009 | 61

Sundown jacket We’ve made a few little tweaks to this best seller from last year. Half zip jacket made from recycled polyester. Reflective logo on the left chest. Chest zipper pocket with an iPod pocket inside. Adjustable drawcord hood and hem. Zipper hand pockets. Internal zip guard. Half zip up the side of the jacket so it’s easy to pull on and off. When you’ve finished with this jacket send it back to us and we’ll recycle it. Gunmetal (main picture), breton blue | S, M, L, XL, XXL | Relaxed fit | Tejin recycled polyester | Machine wash | Made in China | Price £85

HAND-ME-DOWN

62 | Hand-me-down bags

1 Backpack Heavy waxed canvas day bag with padded shoulder straps. Three layers of outer pockets for pens/tools, a mobile phone and notebooks. Internal 17 inch laptop pocket and two camera pockets.

Gull grey/cyan, tan earth/red | 340x400x160mm | Heavy waxed canvas | Made in China | Price £195

2 Messenger Heavy waxed canvas messenger bag with an adjustable padded shoulder strap. Two layers of outer pockets for pens/tools, a mobile phone and notebooks. Internal 15 inch laptop pocket and two camera pockets. Large back slip pocket for documents. Gull grey/cyan, tan earth/red | 400x280x140mm | Heavy waxed canvas | Made in China | Price £185

3 Satchel Heavy waxed canvas satchel. Two layers of outer pockets for a mobile phone and notebook.

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Gull grey/cyan, tan earth/red | 300x220x120mm | Heavy waxed canvas | Made in China | Price £125

A few words from Chad Yonkman.Spring 2009 | 63 Bag Guru.

howies approached me around two years ago with a collaborative mission to create high quality bags that could stand the test of time, bags that could be proudly handed down. Not only did the designs need to result in bags that had the right mix of materials and construction to actually physically survive multiple generations, but they had to have an aesthetic appeal that could endure the chronic wild swings in fashion and adaptable functionality to service the inevitably changing needs of future users. A challenge indeed, but we knew we could pull it off and bring some truly worthwhile and inspiring products to life. To start, we needed to establish the basic design direction for the bags. Where better to look for shapes and details that would have long term 'hand-downable' appeal than to bags that have already proven their staying power, classic outdoor rucksacks. These simple top-loading zipperless designs were incredibly functional and versatile. The minimalist patterns, simple bomb-proof hardware, and clear focus on utility and longevity provided a clear touchstone when working through the design and development of the HMD bags. The die-cut leather lash patches on the HMD bags pay obvious visual and functional homage to these vintage packs, a fitting symbol of classic durable utility. In order to bring the classic rucksack inspiration to the present and future generations, laptops, cell phones, iPods, and other bits required by modern folks are accommodated in

the HMD bags with the integration of multiple storage pockets, padded sleeves, and stashes. Material selection for the HMD bags was crucial. Much time was spent considering countless options before settling on what we think represents the best combination of durable performance and timeless appeal. The heavy waxed canvas main fabric is proven tough, has a high level of water-resistance, and a natural appealing hand and look. The leather we chose will just keep getting better with age. We considered every detail of the HMD bags. Rather than using common metal tooth zips, we chose zips with aluminum teeth so future heirs to the HMD bags won't have to deal with rusty zips. The customdesigned cast aluminum 'hook' buckles provide easy access and secure closure to the main compartments of the bags without any breakable moving parts. Even the stitching was scrutinized triple stitching and backtacking where needed to ensure multiple lifetimes of service. The HMD bags represent careful, responsible, thoughtful design and construction, a worthwhile investment for you today and someone else later on.

64 | Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jacket

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Spring 2009 | 65

66 | Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shirt & jeans

Katherine jeans Flared jeans that sit just below your belly button and comfortably hug your bum. Buttoned waistband. Zipper fly. Shaped front pockets. Two concealed rear flap pockets that fasten with buttons. Petrol, snow white (main picture) | 26, 28, 30, 32, 34 (regular and long) | Baggy fit | 10.5oz organic cotton | Machine wash | Made in China | Price ÂŁ85

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68 | Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s dress

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Spring 2009 | 69

70 | Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sweats

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Spring 2009 | 71

Lundy skirt An easy to wear jersey skirt. Made from 100% organic cotton with a comfortable elastic waistband and drawstring bellow pockets. Knee length. Great for after sport or beachwear and perfect for scrunching up and popping in your bag. Black floral print | 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 | Knee length | Organic cotton | Machine wash | Made in Turkey | Price ÂŁ45

72 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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Spring 2009 | 73

footprints You can still find dinosaur footprints if you look hard enough. They've stuck around, in old riverbeds and slabs of sandstone. They're a good thing to go hunting for when you've got a spare afternoon. And they're a useful reminder that nothing lasts forever. So I wonder who's going to be finding our footprints in 100 million years time? Hopefully some really smart humans. Or something that evolved from humans. People of some description. Of course, the saddest thing would be if they couldn't find our footprints. Because the planet has become a strange flooded world, where fish are the boss. Or because Earth is now a too hot hellhole, noxious and gassy. Or because they can't find the riverbeds. They're buried too deep underneath the shopping trolleys and bargain buckets. Or because there are no people left to do the finding. Now that would be a shame. Words: Dan Germain, aged 35 Illustration: Dan Germain, aged 7

74 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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Spring 2009 | 75

Lemon & barley shorts Slim fit tennis style shorts. Buttoned waistband. Zipper fly. Two slanted front pockets. One back jet pocket. Inside leg measures 3 inches long. Snow white, chinois green, geranium (main picture) | 26, 28, 30, 32, 34 | Slim fit | Organic cotton twill | Machine wash | Made in China | Price ÂŁ50

76 | Women’s tunic & jeans

Brook jeans Rigid slim fit that hugs your bum. Four pocket jeans. Buttoned waistband. Zip fly. Two welt entry front patch pockets. Two rear jet pockets with popper flap closure. Triple needle stitched on the inside and outside leg. Dark grey | 26, 28, 30, 32, 34 (regular and long) | Slim fit | 12oz organic denim | Machine wash | Made in China | Price £80

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Spring 2009 | 77

78 | Men’s jeans

Nerys shirt An oversized collarless short sleeve shirt. Pleated front yoke with buttons. Adjustable tabs so the sleeves can be worn folded up to the shoulders. Egg yolk, (below) port (main picture) | 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 | Loose fit | Organic cotton seersucker stripe | Machine wash | Made in Portugal | Price £65

Audrey trousers Skinny stretch fit trousers that sit just above the ankle and button at the hem. Rear jet pockets. Sailor style waistband with two buttons. Buttons made from Tagua nuts. Breton blue (main picture), snow white | 26, 28, 30, 32, 34 (regular and long) | Skinny stretch fit | 9.5oz organic cotton | Call 01239 614 122 in | www.howies.co.uk Machine wash | Made China | Price £80

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80 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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Spring 2009 | 81

No-one can seem to agree if the recession means good news or bad news for the environment. We summarise the key arguments: Global demand for oil is falling. Petrol gets cheaper. Pubs close heated outdoor terraces as people cut back on eating out. Patio heaters 60% off at B&Q. Woolworths goes bust, leading to falling sales of cheap plastic crap. People drive miles in search of alternative Pick’n’Mix. Premier League footballers cut back on purchases of luxury cars. They’re all buying cut-price helicopters. Drivers put off buying new cars. And keep driving around in their old gas-guzzlers. China shuts down 20 coal-burning power stations. And opens four nuclear ones. Construction of Severn barrage put on hold owing to credit availability. All of Gloucestershire designated Wading Bird Preserve as continued global warming causes flood havoc. Gordon Brown’s government announces plans to create thousands of jobs insulating UK homes. UK Government buildings continue to produce more CO2 output than the entire Kenyan economy. Kenyan economy cuts CO2 output by 25%. UK government buys Kenyan carbon credit instead of insulating roofs. Fashion industry responds to falling sales by switching from four seasons per year to one season every four years. You will be wearing yellow low-cut velour disco pants until spring 2013. Words: Jon Matthews Illustration: Nicholas Saunders

82 | Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s trousers

Hop Scotch cropped trousers Calf length trousers with a buttoned waistband and fly. Made from crisp organic cotton. Coin pocket. Two front patch pockets and two rear patch pockets. Buttons made from Tagua nuts. Dark khaki, egg yolk | 26, 28, 30, 32, 34 (regular and long) | Regular fit | Organic cotton | Machine wash | Made in China | Price ÂŁ65

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84 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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Spring 2009 | 85 Larkster trousers Loose fit cargo trousers. Buttoned waistband and fly. Belt loops. Two slanted front welt pockets. Two rear patch pockets with button flap. Two side leg patch pockets with buttoned flap. Buttons made from Tagua nuts. Dark khaki, chinois green | 26, 28, 30, 32, 34 (regular and long) | Loose fit | Organic cotton ripstop | Machine wash | Made in China | Price ÂŁ75

86 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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Spring 2009 | 87

My foot measures a foot, as in twelve inches. Actually both of them do. Pretty big and very useful for measuring out an impromptu swimming pool. My footprints can vary in size though. Sometimes they’re tiny when my big feet are happy to look for locally grown fruit and veg. My big feet will also politely refuse carrier bags and my big feet don’t mind going on a trip to the recycling bins down the road. But then you got the odd day when my footprints are a bit massive. If my big feet want mango, my big feet will have mango god dammit. If it’s a long walk home for my big feet, a couple of carrier bags won’t hurt and if it’s too cold and wet for my big feet to go outside I’ll just chuck the paper in the normal bin this time. Having spoken at length to my feet about this they both agreed they like being big but they love having small footprints.

Words: Ben Harris Illustration: Federico Jordan

88 | Women’s vest & jeans

Call 01239 122 cotton | www.howies.co.uk Perfect vest614 Organic | Price £20 Lucy jeans Slim fit | Organic denim | Price £70

Spring 2009 | 89

90 | Women’s zip top & vest

Flip flop zip top Reversible zip through high collar top. Medium weight double faced fabric with stripes on one side and spots on the other side. Solid colours on the cuffs and hems. Contrasting colour draw cord in the collar.

Flip flop vest Reversible vest. Scooped neck and loose body. Gathers at the front neck seam. The fabric is double faced, with spots on one side and stripes on the other so it feels heavier than a regular t-shirt.

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Spring 2009 | 91

Plan-B Studio

92 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

We are at the start of calculating our carbon footprint, working with the Clean Cargo Working Group. We now have a method which we can use to calculate our transportation CO2. Along with information from our suppliers we can calculate our footprint all the way through the supply chain. Our next step will be to work out the carbon created throughout manufacturing, from fibre to finished garment. We can then add this information to the transportation CO2 so we can get a complete picture. Watch this space. In addition we need to start looking at other harmful gases other than CO2 such as sulphur dioxide from fuel used in ships, nitrogen oxide and even methane produced by the sheep that gives us our Merino fibre (methane is more damaging to the climate than CO2). Call 01239 614 122 | www.howies.co.uk

Eventually we can take into account how much CO2 howies HQ uses, how much staff create getting to work, as well as heating the building and energy used in our working day. We need to look at the whole picture, but we feel that we've made a start. Once we've done that we can identify areas to reduce our impact. I guess the teacher would say 'good start, but could do better'.

Notes from the graphs Total CO2 in Spring/Summer has been reduced mostly because of the reduction in air shipments. Distance travelled has been reduced due to ordering less Merino in the Spring/Summer seasons.

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94 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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Spring 2009 | 95

Solva shorts Loose fit cargo shorts. Buttoned waistband. Zipper fly. Two front jet pockets. Two button closure back patch pockets. Two button closure cargo pockets on the leg. Inside leg measures 11 inches long. Buttons made from Tagua nuts. Geranium, dark khaki, printed dark khaki | 26, 28, 30, 32, 34 | Loose fit | Organic cotton ripstop | Machine wash | Made in China | Price ÂŁ55 for plain, ÂŁ60 for printed

96 | Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jumper

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Spring 2009 | 97

Quayside jumper Long sleeve scoop button neck jumper. Pretty pointelle hole design all over the ‘bib’ on the front and back. Button opening at the neck for easy layering with vests. Organic cotton fine gauge knit which has a soft and smooth hand feel. Citrus, breton blue (main picture), geranium (next page) | 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 | Regular fit | Hip length | Organic cotton | Hand wash cool | Made in China | Price £65

Lizzie jeans Skinny stretch fit. Five pocket jeans. Button waistband. Zip fly. Coin pocket. Two front hand pockets and two rear patch pockets. Triple needle stitched on the inside and outside leg. Indigo | 26, 28, 30, 32, 34 (regular and long) | Skinny stretch fit | Organic stretch denim | Machine wash | Made in China | Price £85

98 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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Spring 2009 | 99

100 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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Spring 2009 | 101

Words: Ben Harris Illustration: Marcus Walters

102 | Women’s hoody

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Spring 2009 | 103

104 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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Spring 2009 | 105

Catcher jumper Three-quarter sleeve top with a knitted lace structure and a solid colour spot pattern all over. Looks great over bright coloured vests. Made from organic cotton and linen. Linen is a fantastic natural fibre made from flax, it is cool to the touch and it gets softer the more it is washed. Linen is made from long staple fibres, which makes it the strongest of all the vegetable fibres, 2-3 times stronger than cotton. It can also absorb up to 20% moisture without the fabric feeling damp, which is also good for when the temperature rises. Snow white, chinois green (main picture) | 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 | Regular fit | Hip length | 55% linen, 45% organic cotton | Hand wash cool | Made in China | Price ÂŁ80

106 | Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s polo shirt

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Spring 2009 | 107

108 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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Spring 2009 | 109

Harper cardigan Long cardigan with a deep V-neck. Plain and simple apart from oversized buttons with a beautiful laser-etched bird. Organic cotton fine gauge knit that has a soft and smooth hand feel. Ideal for layering on top of vests and shorts in the summer when the sun goes down. Teal, chinois green, rouge (main picture) | 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 | Relaxed fit | Thigh length | Organic cotton | Hand wash cool | Made in China | Price ÂŁ80

Illustration: Matt Jones

110 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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Spring 2009 | 111 Over the last mumble-mumble-something-months myself and two friends (Russell Davies and Henry Holland) have been making a machine for howies. It’s a machine that doesn’t really have a point, but that’s kind of the point. We’ve taken a long while, and spent very little money doing it all in our spare time. It’s what Russell calls a 'Slow Project' – a bit like slow food, it’ll be all the better for the time taken on it. If that sounds a bit like an excuse, you’re right... But – this way of doing things discovers stuff that you don’t find in meticulous planning and breakneck, ruthless execution. Both of which, normally, come as second nature to me, of course. First of all, there’s just the pleasure of tinkering. Tinkering and discussing some of the niceties of the machine, in a kind of more genteel, smaller, slower version of 'Scrapheap Challenge'. With cake. But aside from the social side of such an activity, there’s something deeper that it unlocks. I’m a designer that mainly works with digital materials, and while the pleasure of tinkering with a machine is something that I get quite a lot in software, to tinker in hardware and software (especially Meccano) is a rarer thing. It seems to activate a way of thinking with the eye, the mind and the hand that is entirely natural, and the playful problem-solving instincts of childhood come rushing back. Kevin Kelly writes in an essay about Artificial Intelligence that problem-solving is not just an abstract process of the mind, but something that happens in the world, and brands those who don’t believe this as indulging in 'thinkism'. The intelligence of the hand, and the eye, and the body, working with material things in the world, instead of abstract symbols in a computer you might call 'Do-ism'. The tactility of a piece of a material, the forces it will accept, the way it will behave can be assessed in an instant by someone with years of Do-ism behind them, and applied expertly. Those with less experience can still experiment by doing and playing – as the design agency IDEO says 'building to think'. We’re building the machine (slowly) to think, and have fun, but mainly to see what we can achieve and learn with Do-ism. Matt Jones

112 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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Evelyn hoody New hoody based on our best selling “Eve” reversible hoody from a few years back. We have updated the style and added a full zip and high collar. Two layers of t-shirt weight fabric that can be reversed.

Spring 2009 | 113

114 | Women’s jacket

Sundown jacket An updated version of our best-selling Sundown jacket. Full zip jacket made from recycled polyester. Reflective logo on the left chest. Chest zipper pocket, perfect for an iPod. Adjustable drawcord hood and hem. Zipper hand pockets. Internal zip guard. Printed inside hood. When you’ve finished with this jacket send it back to us and we’ll recycle it. Gunmetal (main picture), electric blue | 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 | Regular fit | Teijin recycled polyester | Machine wash | Made in China | Price £75

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Spring 2009 | 115

116 | Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s shirt

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Spring 2009 | 117

Layer-up shirt A lightweight long length capped sleeve shirt in cool organic cotton voile. Loose in the body. Jet dyed so saves a ton of water (see page 118 for full story). Looks great over bright coloured vest tops. Cerise, egg yolk, blue bottle, snow white (main picture) | 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 | Loose fit | Organic cotton | Machine wash | Made in Portugal | Price ÂŁ55

118 | Women’s Liberty range

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Spring 2009 | 119

The Liberty range is a small, limited edition range that features a print from the Liberty Heritage range and is printed on the finest organic cotton we could find.

Clean yourself up

120 | Men’s jeans

Dyeing fabrics is tricky. The truth is it can create a right old mess. But if we only sold ecru-coloured clothes you’d think they were pretty dull, so we kind of have to do it (everyone likes a splash of colour in their wardrobe don’t they).

sprayed with dye by high-powered jets. This uses a lot less water – just 3 litres per kilo of fabric. Think of it as a bit like having a shower instead of a bath I suppose. It’s quicker, it uses less water, less energy and there is less waste to clean up.

The problem is that traditional batch dyeing uses a lot of water. 10 litres per kilo of fabric to be precise (and if you’re dyeing large batches, that soon adds up to a lot). In order to get an even colour, the yarn has to be dipped and spun in a huge vat full of the dye solution. Then the waste solution from that process needs to be treated and disposed of sensibly.

We thought that sounded like a good way to stay colourful, without having to flush our morals down the plughole. Jet dyed products: Layer up top Lundy top (coming this summer) Upside: Less water Less time Less energy Less chemicals Less abrasion Better results Waste gets treated

This season though, the Teviz factory in Portugal has been using a new process. A process called ‘jet dyeing’. Now, instead of Down side: the 01239 fabric614 being it is Still creates waste product Call 122 |dipped, www.howies.co.uk

Spring 2009 | 121

122 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

Spring 2009 | 123

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124 | Womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

Spring 2009 | 125

1 Fella jeans Loose fit that sits lower on the hip. Five pocket jeans. Button waistband. Zip fly. Coin pocket. Two front hand pockets and two rear patch pockets. Triple needle stitched on the inside and outside leg.

2 SA43 jeans Straight fit. Five pocket jeans. Button waistband. Zip fly. Coin pocket. Two front hand pockets and two rear patch pockets. Triple needle stitched on the inside and outside leg. Indigo | 26, 28, 30, 32, 34 (regular and long) | Straight fit | 12oz organic denim | Machine wash | Made in China | Price £75

3 Suzie jeans Straight fit with a slight boot cut at hem. Five pocket jeans. Button waistband. Zip fly. Coin pocket. Two front hand pockets and two rear patch pockets. Triple needle stitched on the inside and outside leg. Indigo | 26, 28, 30, 32, 34 (regular and long) | Bootcut fit | 12oz organic denim | Machine wash | Made in China | Price £75

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126 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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Spring 2009 | 127

Royaltee coming soon

128 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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THE TEA APPRECIATION SOCIETY MANIFESTO 1 We want to sing the love of tea. 2 The essential elements of our poetry will be loose leaf tea, boiled water, a tea pot, a china cup and a biscuit. 3 Literature has up to now magnified idleness, and slumber. We want to exalt these slow movements of ecstasy, feverish boiling of the kettle, the pour, the perilous stir, the rattle and the clink of the spoon. 4 We declare that the splendour of the world has been enriched by an old beauty: the beauty of tea. 5 The poet must spend himself with warmth, glamour and prodigality to increase the enthusiastic fervour of the primordial elements. 6 Beauty exists only in considered brewing. There is no masterpiece that has an aggressive character. Poetry is not a violent assault on the forces of infusion. 7 We want to glorify peace â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the only cure for the world â&#x20AC;&#x201C; militarism, patriotism; these destructive gestures kill the beautiful ideas of the human race. 9 We want to visit museums and libraries, encourage philosophy. 10 We will sing of the great crowds agitated by work; the revolt, smashing the supermarkets; we will rejoice in the baking of bread; the polyphonic surf of revolutions in modern music as we play our ukuleles: the nocturnal vibration of the worms in our compost; our spirits suspended from the clouds by the thread of cup in sleeve tea bags; and the gliding flight of creativity whose propeller sounds like the sipping of enthusiastic tea drinkers.

www.teaappreciationsociety.org

Spring 2009 | 129

130 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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Spring 2009 | 131

Lacewing vest A pretty Merino wool vest. Button opening and bib shaping on the front. Knitted tuck stitch pattern within the fabric. Gathers on the front and back seams for an easy fit. Great for layering up or on its own when the weather is hot. Vanilla, coral (main picture) | 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 | Relaxed fit | 100% Merino wool | Machine wash | Made in Fiji | Price £35

Lacewing top Merino wool scooped neck top. Long sleeved top with deep cuffs. Gathers at the shoulders and cuffs. The top has a knitted tuck stitch pattern within the fabric. This proves that Merino is not just a sports fabric – but is great for everyday wear. Merino is naturally wicking, it regulates your temperature and it feels real nice next to your skin. Coral (left), vanilla | 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 | Regular fit | 100% Merino wool | Machine wash | Made in Fiji | Price £50

132 | Women’s accessories

Forget-me-not shopping bag A great little bag using old waste and leftover woven fabric from our factory. You can fold up the bag and take it anywhere with you. Waste not want not. Seashell (top left), jade (top right), brown (bottom left), pink (bottom right) | Organic cotton | Machine wash | Made in Portugal | Price £20

Roundabout oversized scarf Made from 55% hemp and 45% rayon fabric. You can wear it as a scarf, or a wrap around in the summer or at the beach. Lightweight with a cool and soft touch. Peppermint (above), natural (see website) | 55% hemp,

Call 614 122 | www.howies.co.uk 45% 01239 rayon | Hand wash | Made in China | Price £35

Spring 2009 | 133

134 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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Spring 2009 | 135

Old growth forest is a good place to take an economics lesson. I was standing in a stretch of temperate rainforest on Vancouver Island. It wasn’t the 800 year old Douglas Firs surrounding me that got my attention – not that you can miss something 70m tall and 2m in diameter – or that I’d never realised there were so many shades of green. It was the stuff on the forest floor. ‘Old growth’ means the forest has been untouched for hundreds of years by fire or loggers. It manages itself. When a tree gets old or sick and a big storm comes, it falls over. As it begins to rot and gather moss, it catches seeds that fall from the other trees above. Here, above the forest floor, away from faster growing plants that would take their light, fed by nutrients from the rotting tree, the seedlings grow.

The healthiest and luckiest will root through their ‘nursery log’ to the forest floor and grow strong until, in another few hundred years, they start the cycle again. And the economics? Well, in December 2008 the US government loaned $17.4 billion to the US car makers Ford, GM and Chrysler. Car companies in the UK and Europe are all looking to be propped up by the taxpayer. Let them fall. Nobody buying your car? That’s because it’s no good. You’re making too many of them. The ones you make use too much gas, look like crap and fall apart too soon. And, worst of all, you’re keeping Jeremy Clarkson in a job.

The car industry is full of really clever people doing really dumb jobs. There are engineers paid to make cars go faster instead of making them more economical, designers paid to make cars look more aggressive instead of making them safer for other road users, marketing managers paid to sell the freedom of an open road to people who have nowhere to park. How about better public transport or car sharing systems or cars that don’t run on petrol? Or better laid out cities with space for people and bikes? We’re going to need people to design, engineer, build and sell these things. And factory space. And billions of dollars. Where’s it all going to come from? Tim-ber! Words: Jon Matthews Illustration: Matthew Hams

136 | Boys’ t-shirts & shorts

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Boys’ hoody & jeans | 137

Jack jeans With all the same features as the adult jeans – the same 10oz eco-ball washed organic denim, the same unbleached pocket bags and waistband, the same howies signature stitching on the back pocket – they’re just smaller. Adjustable elastic waistband. Indigo | 3-4, 5-6, 7-8, 9-10 | Regular fit | 10oz organic denim | Machine wash | Made in China | Price £45

138 | Girls’ t-shirt & shorts

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Girls’ hoody & jeans | 139

Stella jeans Three-quarter length slim fit stretch jean. Adjustable waistband with zipper fly. Coin pocket. Two front hand pockets. Two rear patch pockets. Made exactly the same way with the same care and attention to details as our grown ups jeans. Indigo | 3-4, 5-6, 7-8, 9-10 | Regular fit cropped jeans | Organic stretch denim | Machine wash | Made in China | Price £40

140 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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Spring 2009 | 141

What it is to climb a mountain

142 | Menâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s jeans

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It’s a big fry-up in a café with misted up windows – with one more brew and another round of toast – before stiff boots and bones at the road head, putting on all your layers – a barrier to the wild – wishing you’d just had muesli when your waterproof trousers won’t zip up. It’s getting light, stepping in puddles with their skins of ice, smelling the air and leaving it all below – stopping only to take off another layer – being glad you didn’t stay in bed as you watch the colours grow more vivid with the morning light. It’s passing those on the way up and feeling fitter, only to be passed by those fitter still, picking up drinks cartons and tissues as you go, knowing the mountain will repay you for it one day. It’s the sudden rain and mist that sends you all scrabbling for crags that make you feel invulnerable, then on again, no views this time, only easy conversations. You know it’s not far as you hear the kind encouragement from fellow climbers of mountains, those coming back down through the mist, shouting “not long now”.

2009 | 143 It’s the big push, legs feeling tired now,Spring looking at your feet, feeling the wind beginning to bite, and so it’s on with your odd gloves and hat; water droplets beading up on wool, the bones of a base jumping sheep reminding you why the stuff keeps you warm up here, and why you should take care of the drop. It’s being a little bit lost, finding you have the wrong map, and a Southern hemisphere compass, but sort of knowing the way anyway and bluffing that you do. It’s still not getting there, and hoping for a cloud inversion that never inverts. It’s the top; a pile of stones and faded orange peel. It’s soggy sandwiches and damp crisps that never tasted so good, and tea from flasks that tastes both foul and wonderful until the cold forces you down. It’s headtorches with almost flat batteries all the way back to the car, and on to the café for a quick brew before you travel home, with heavy eyes, a light stomach, in clothes that no longer stink of clean chemicals but smell instead of doing. Andy the climber

Photography: Ian Parnell

It’s hoping for bad weather as the alarm beeps at six, only for silence to creep in after its final chime; no hammering of rain, no tile bullying maelstrom, no excuses. And so it’s a long lamp lit motorway that finally twists into a dark road to the rendezvous, where being the first one there you hope your friends come (and they do).

DOCUMENT FALLS VICTIM TO THE CREDIT CRUNCH

144 | Men’s jeans

THIS YEAR, BRITISH SKATEBOARDING'S BIBLE DOCUMENT MAGAZINE WAS CANCELLED BY ITS PUBLISHER UNKNOWN TO ITS READERS AND STAFF, THEIR CELEBRATORY TENTH ANNIVERSARY ISSUE WAS TO BE THEIR LAST. HERE IS EDITOR PERCY DEAN'S SIDE OF THE STORY.

Well yes, the current economic climate’s over-eager scythe did have a good slash at us, but in the past ten years of making skateboarding appear on paper our sturdy legs have been kicked from under us more times than you could ever bear by various forms of monetary tree felling, and yet until now nothing ever got to us. Why? Well I guess essentially we were always small enough to duck a good shot and skinny enough to wriggle free of a tight chokehold. Our problems were always our own, we got ourselves into them and we again sorted them out! As the years progressed people wanted more from us and so we gave them more, swelling in pages, readership and distribution. We soon began to notice that our size had made us an easier target and we started getting pulled on certain comments we’d made & articles we’d done, or rather not done. People were paying more to be a part of the magazine and so I guess they had a right to voice an opinion. But when it came down to it, we stuck our backs against the wall and fought hard to do it the way we wanted, the way we as skateboarders thought was right. Document was never going to be a promotional pamphlet for the people who had the deepest pockets; it was the news source and core opinion for the skaters who were lining those pockets.

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That’s where people still get it all wrong, the industry doesn’t dictate the market, skateboarders do and without sounding patronizing we felt like we were voicing the delights and concerns of what skateboarders in the scene were feeling. We felt that was the essence of our role. As I struggle to remember my life before skateboarding and now struggle to see my future within it, I start to doubt myself. Maybe we should have changed the way we did things, maybe we should have pandered to advertisers a little more. Maybe our priority should have been to appease those forty year old guys who sit in offices, sweating into their lattes over Power-point presentations on why something they don’t do isn’t selling. Maybe we shouldn’t have kept ignoring all those calls from PR girls trying to place some faddish junk in the mag and maybe then it would still be going, maybe we could have been surfing high on a wave of marketing and the adulation of all those exskateboarders. Fuck that… I’m glad its done, I’m glad we never bowed, I’m glad real skateboarders read it and called it their own and I’m glad the memory of Document is always going to be clean. We wouldn’t have wanted it any other way.

Percy Dean

Spring 2009 | 145

Photo: Tidy Mike

OPE

146 | Men’s jeans

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In November we opened our third shop, this time it was in Bristol.

The Bristol store is our chance to be more howies, to more people. Pop in if you're in town.

The concept of the store is the same as the Carnaby Street shop to make people think as well as buy. To remember a thing called quality in a world obsessed with quantity. To consider and reduce the impact of everything we make. To build something we can be proud of and to try and have some fun along the way.

The store is located on 62 Queens Road Bristol BS8 1RE Opening times Monday to Saturday 9.30am – 6pm Sunday 11am – 5pm

Spring 2009 | 147

Do Bursary Andy from TYF adventure came to us with an idea of a Do Bursary. He called it ‘Do Adventure’. We thought it was a great idea. Do Adventure brings together the insights that TYF have gained from 23 years of innovation and leadership in adventure with the passion for change and action that underpins the Do Lectures. Do Adventure is a six-month course for people who are going to change the way that schools, communities, business and government think, work and play. It will include study and work on sustainability, climate change, peak oil, food security, social justice, and will develop the skills needed to make more of an impact in these areas – confidence, knowledge, communication, facilitation, organising, presenting, questioning and more. Do Adventure will build the skills to teach through play – when coasteering, surfing, climbing and kayaking. The first Do Adventure programme runs mid April – mid October 2009, and costs £5500 for 6 months of learning, adventure, equipment and course travel. Costs exclude accommodation. There are two bursaries – one full one and one at 50% off the cost (£2750) – to give away to the people who write the most persuasive letter to howies about why they want to make a difference, and why they can. So time to get writing. It’s an amazing opportunity. For full details: www.dolectures.com

Do Lectures has been set up as a not for profit organisation. Its purpose is to build the world’s best resource for doers. And to provide all that content for free to everyone in the hope that the doers of the world will inspire the rest of us to make a positive change.

The date has been set for this year’s Do Lectures. September 3rd – 7th. It will take place at fforest, down here in West Wales. There will be 80 places in total. 40 of the places will be sold to private individuals, companies etc. They will effectively pay for the other 40 students to attend for free. Last year we funded it solely from our Earth Tax. This year we want it to stand on its own two feet so we can donate our Earth Tax to other good causes. So the Do Lectures is looking for donations and sponsorship. To make a donation, please go to the website www.dolectures.co.uk The names of the 20 speakers will be released May 1st.

148 | Men’s jeans

Books Inside Steve’s Brain Leander Kahney. The driving force of Apple. Read why. The Ascent of Money: A Financial History of the World Niall Ferguson Probably the best book about the journey from boom to bust throughout history. The Essays of Warren Buffett: Lessons For Corporate America Warren E Buffett Wise words from a man who chose to get rich slowly. Less is more Goldian Vadenbroeck How to keep things simple. Outliers The Story of Success Malcolm Gladwell He might have the craziest hairdresser but one of the most interesting minds. My Grammar and I (or should that be me?) Caroline Taggart and JA Wines If someone buys you this, it’s a subtle hint. The Black Swan: The Impact of the Highly Improbable Nassim Nicholas Taleb Economics and human behavior.

Green to Gold Daniel C Esty & Andrew S Winston How to make sustainability a core element of a company’s strategy and profit from it. The Clean Tech Revolution Ron Patrick & Clint Wilder Changing economies from changing energy sources. The 80/20 Principle: The Secret to Success by Achieving More with Less Richard Koch The law of the vital few. Keeping Chickens: The Essential Guide to Enjoying and Getting the Best from Chickens Jeremy Hobson & Celia Lewis Does what it says on the egg box. About green energy technologies Wave and Tidal Power Mark Venables The current stage of wave and tidal power technology and its potential benefits in the UK. Off the Grid Homes Lori Ryker Contemporary architecture projects that look at alternative technologies to generate energy.

Everything’s an offer: How to do more with less Robert Poynton For all those of you that think improv has nothing to teach business. Call 01239 614 122 | www.howies.co.uk

About carbon footprints New Photography in Britain 10 Technologies to Save Filippo Maggia the Planet First in a series of books Chris Goodall dedicated to emerging About the inventors photographers around and innovators that are the world. tackling climate change head on. Deformer Ed Templeton Architecture of Change Multi-media scrapbook Kristin Feireiss & Lukas of his upbringing in Feireiss suburban Orange County, Sustainability and California. humanity in the built environment. Copywriting Successful writing for About surf stuff design, advertising and marketing. Stormrider guide: Europe Continent About other stuff Low Pressure and travel Detailed and mapped out guide to best breaks Places to Hide: in Europe. In England, Scotland & Wales The Surfboard Dixe Wills Ben Marcus Hiding places in Britain. About the surfboard. Green Places to Stay The Book of Surfing Alastair Sawday Mike Fordham A guide to special places All you need to know. that provide green or eco standards. About art, design and photography Organic Places to Stay in the UK Polaroid Book Linda Moss The best images from the A great directory of Polaroid Collection. ethical places to stay in the UK. Sustainable Aaris Sherin More Mobile A handbook of Jennifer Siegal materials and About portable applications for graphics. architecture. Over and Over Mike Perry Hand-drawn patterns in day-to-day places.

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DVDs

Websites

Glass Love Andrew Kidman A beautiful film focusing on the generational link and love of surfing.

carbontrust.co.uk Reducing carbon emissions and helps to develop low carbon technologies.

Longer J. Brother A film that brought the soul back to surf film making.

resurgence.org/ resources/carboncalculator Work out your carbon emissions with this calculator. ecoescape.org Online guide to eco-friendly holidays in the UK. britsurf.co.uk The British Surf Association website. magicseaweed.com Online directory for everything to do with surfing. sas.org.uk Surfers Against Sewage website.

lovelyasatree.com The website that tells you everything you need to know to be a more environmentally aware graphic designer.

vimeo.com/ takeawayshows Brilliant vimeo channel of the French music film makers La Blogotheque.

myloveforyou.typepad. com Great blog for inspiration. Full of beautiful illustrations and other pieces of art.

www.polfed.com Local crime maps.

feltron.com This guy is the king of information design. Check out the 2008 report. daytum.com A website allowing you to input your daily data and output it in beautiful infographics. Check out mine: daytum.com/jonheslop muxtape.com This will be huge.

magcloud.com Make a zine, upload it to MagCloud and start selling. They print them to order. What royaltee is to t-shirts, MagCloud is to magazines.

ihardlyknowher.com Everyone is fed up with how slow and difficult the user interface is on Flickr. Go look at ihardlyknowher.com/ dolectures

threetreesdontmakea forest.org Group of graphic designers who set up a non-profit company to be the catalyst for the creation of a zero carbon design industry.

boston.com/bigpicture Where all the best photojournalism is. allotment.org.uk Find out how and where.

trustpilot.co.uk Which retailers are to be trusted and which are to be avoided. downsizer.net Online community for those who want to downsize. appremover.com Removes all the stuff you thought essential last week. sketchup.google.com Make and share 3D models. snopes.com Check out if a story is true or not. chrisking.com The hand-me-down of bike components. debutart.com/artist/ alan-kitching The very talented letterpress designer whose work is on these two pages.

Letterpress: Alan Kitching

Call 01239 614 122 | www.howies.co.uk

Ben Williams and Kat Hughes

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Spring 2009 | 151

How to order stuff

152 | Men’s jeans

Ordering

Factories

Visit www.howies.co.uk Call 01239 614 122 (Monday – Friday, 9am – 6pm)

We have decided to give information about the country of origin of our products in the catalogue so that you can make an informed decision before you buy. We have a formal assesment done on each of our factories to ensure the conditions for the people who produce our clothes are fair, safe and non-discriminatory. We will be putting more information about our factories on our website in the coming months. We will keep you posted.

To pay We accept Visa, Mastercard, American Express, Switch, Delta and Solo. If you would prefer to pay by cheque, please call us to place your order before you send your cheque. Delivery UK orders over £100 are postage free Standard delivery £4 (2–5 working days) Next day delivery £6.50 (order before 3pm) Overseas deliveries – see website for different rates. Returns On UK orders you do not have to pay to return an item (unless it is a sale item). No quibble officer dibble guarantee We stand firmly by the products we make. We believe in quality and we will not be happy until you are. So, if our products have failed you in any way, please return them and we will give you your money back.

Kids’ measurements Our kids’ clothes are designed and made with room for growth. All jeans can be reduced on the waist considerably due to elastic threaded through back of jeans with button holes at 1cm intervals.

Call 01239 614 122 | www.howies.co.uk

Earth Tax We give 1% of our turnover or 10% of pre-tax profits (whichever is greater) to grass-roots environmental social projects.

Are you on our database? We send out four of these catalogues a year. We try to make them interesting so they make you think as well as buy. If you are not on our database and would like to be, visit: howies.co.uk/catalogue.php

Are your details correct? If we’ve sent this to you and your details are wrong, send an e-mail to mydetails@howies.co.uk You’ll need to tell us the details we’ve got wrong followed by the right ones.

Can you help us grow? We rely on good old word-of-mouth to help us grow this little company of ours. If you have some friends who might like to receive our catalogue then let us know. To do this visit: howies.co.uk/helpusgrow.php

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Women’s

How to measure

All women’s trousers come in a regular leg and a long leg. Regular leg is 31in and long leg is 33in (inseam).

8 Chest 32in 81cm Waist 26in 66cm Hips 34in 86cm

Chest Waist

34in 86cm

36in 91.5cm

38in 96.5cm

40in 101.5cm

Hips

28in 71cm

30in 76cm

32in 81cm

34in 86cm

Inseam

36 in 91.5cm

38in 96.5cm

40in 42in 101.5cm 106.5cm

Chest

Waist

Inseam

Kids’ Age Chest Waist Height

3-4 5-6 7-8 9-10 22¾in 23½in 25in 27in 57cm 60cm 64cm 69cm 21in 21½in 23in 24in 53cm 55cm 58cm 61cm 38½-41in 43½-45½ 48-50½in 52¾-55in 98-104cm 110-116cm 122-128cm 134-140cm

Go get the fun!

Waist Measure around the natural waistline. Inseam (inside leg) Measure from the top of the inside leg to the ankle.

Men’s All men’s trousers come in regular length, which is 32in, and long length, which is 34in (inseam). S M L XL XXL Chest 34-36in 36-38in 39-41in 41-43in 43-45in 86-91cm 92-97cm 99-104cm 104-109 109-114cm

Chest Measure under arms at the fullest part of the chest.

Chest Waist Height

Body armour

The ancient Japanese “Book of Five Rings” is a book of strategy, tactics and philosophy that has been studied by the world’s finest minds and is compulsory reading in many a well heeled university. Its author the legendary swordsman Miyamoto Musashi clearly states (when entering a battle of any kind) the axiom “do not underestimate the use of armour”. I am aware that our courier bag is no sword but bear with me on the armour front. Some people might buy a courier bag for the way it looks, for others it may be its functional aspects, pockets, zip position, strap width and adjustability. Luckily for you we’ve taken all that into consideration but that wasn’t all we needed our own bag to do. Nick Hand gave me the job of writing this up for the catalogue so with that in mind I

decided to get some supper before I got down to work. Then hey presto, the piece wrote itself. In the dark of the night I came rolling down the hill in the car after a visit to the famous Bowen’s Fish and Chip shop in St Dogmaels. I got to the bend at the bottom and my headlights fortunately caught the reflective chevrons that we have placed in all the best places on our new bag. I say fortunately as Jon Heslop our in-house prince of geekdom and all things quirky and great came haring round the corner on his Bob Jackson fixie in the pitch black and all I could see was my own light coming back at me from those very self same chevrons on the sample bag he’s had for just a few weeks and now had over his shoulder as he rode home. As I write this he still doesn’t know it was me that passed him going

in the opposite direction this very evening. All I saw in front of me was a vague outline in the dark of him in his bobble hat, and his green bike in my lights and the result of genius that is retroflective. Armour can come in many different forms and sometimes it takes the form of some well placed material on our bags that might just save your life. It’s all well and good looking cool and getting a bag with enough pockets to house your electrical gadgetry but useless if it’s not going to protect you from some idiot driver who may not be bike savvy or just isn’t concentrating like they should be. The same may be said for the riders out there too. So stay safe out there people, happy riding and don’t forget to armour up, if it was good enough for Musashi then you know it’s good enough for you. Tim March

Chevron courier bag Reflective chevron panels on the front flap. Secure mobile phone pockets. Adjustable straps throughout. Internal padded computer pouch, a clear zipped pouch and loads of internal pockets for pens, change and stuff. Mesh water bottle holder. Black | Unisex bag | 100% nylon | Made in China | Price £65

Call 01239 614 122 | www.howies.co.uk

Spring 2009 | 155

You will have noticed that this catalogue came without an envelope. I kept wondering why we used an envelope that would then be thrown in the bin straight away. The answer to why we did an envelope was because we always had. A friend told me to walk in stupid to work. I do my best each day, or so I am told. But the point is to ask dumb questions. To question stuff we have always done, just because we did it yesterday doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mean we were doing it the best way. So let me know how your catalogue arrived. And if it works we can save money and some trees along the way.

Credit where credit is due Designed by Pete Davies, Aron Jones and Nick Hand. Produced by Paul Anderson. Photography by Adolfo Crespo, James Bowden, Aron Jones, Paul Anderson and Nick Hand. Product photography and styling by Elements Management (thanks Josie). Shoot styling by Anna Felton. Printed by Westdale Printers of Cardiff. The catalogue has been printed on Greencoat which is 100% recycled. Thanks to Paul, Anna and Aron and our friends Nick Radford, Sam Boex, Jack Crisp, Roxane Horner and Lydia Savage who came on the Portugal adventure, hope you had a good time (sorry about that rough old ferry crossing). A huge thank you to all the writers and illustrators who contributed their time and energy and saved me my time and energy. And not forgetting Mr Jon Heslop for doing countless cutouts. Top man. T-shirts this time round were designed by Ollie Wolf (The Wheel), Andy J Miller (Work To Live), Pete Davies (Grain Brain), Chris Gray (Grandma, Mr Kite, To The Beach), Nic Burrows (Log Cabin, Sleuths), Jemma Bursnell (Lucky Stars), Alex Curtis (Clickity Clack, Gingerbread House) and Millie Marotta (Swallow Tree). Cover illustration by our good friend Nicholas Saunders.

howies Bath House Road Cardigan SA43 1JY Telephone 01239 614 122 London shop 42 Carnaby Street London W1F 7DY Telephone 0207 287 2345 Bristol shop 62 Queens Road Bristol BS8 1RE Telephone 0117 929 8928 Cardigan sale shop Bridge Warehouse Teifi Wharf Cardigan SA43 3AA Telephone 01239 623 745 www.howies.co.uk

156 | Men’s jeans It would help us to know why you’re returning this catalogue I have received more than one, this is catalogue number There are two of us at this address and I can share with: full name I don’t want to receive anymore howies catalogues Something we’ve missed

Don’t bin me, read me or return me. howies, Bath House Road, Cardigan, Wales SA43 1JY

Call 01239 614 122 | www.howies.co.uk