Howler Magazine May 2018

HOWLER C o s ta R i c a L i f e s t y l e , T r av e l & A d v e n t u r e

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since 1996

Prison in Paradise San Lucas Island, worse than death

AROUND THE GULF: Puntarenas and Nicoya Peninsula LEAP IN AGAIN: Renewing Vows

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MAY

2018

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SURFING COSTA RICA: New Mini-Mag

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FEATURED

CONTENTS

Cover Story

12

Till Death Do We Leap

22

SURFING

Howler's New Mini-Mag

31

Stay Happy in the Rain

52

Featured Adventure

San Lucas Island Prison

You can check out any time you like, but you can never leave.

Around the Gulf

Exploring Puntarenas and the Nicoya Peninsula

18

Fashion Flash

CR History in Photos

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Puntarenas

62

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DEPARTMENTS

CONTENTS 22 Travel & Adventure

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22 - Featured Adventure: Lucky Lovers Leap Into Gravity Falls 24 - Cool Places: Guayabo - History of a Mystery 26 - Simply Spanish - Tico Expressions 27 - Off the Beaten Path: Llanos de Cortés Waterfall 28 - Creature Feature: Tree Boas - Three of a Common Kind 29 - What to Expect: How to Handle Money in Costa Rica 30 - Travel & Adventure Directory

31 Surfing Costa Rica

Llanos de Cortés Waterfall Off the Beaten Path

32 - Waves You’ve Missed 36 - Surf Spot: Playa Santa Teresa 38 - Profile: SUP Champ Valeria Salustri 40 - August Odysseys 42 - Competition Results: Copa Condomino Arenas 42 - Tide, Sun & Moon Chart

44 Arts & Entertainment 44 - Spotlight: Old-School Instrumentalist Isidoro Guadamuz 46 - Arts & Entertainment Calendar 48 - Dos Locos: TTZ - Journey to the Promised Land, Part 2 49 - Happenings: Get Out and Do Something

50 Lifestyle

Santa Teresa

36

Surf Spot

Princes of Darkness Behind the Image

50

0 - Behind the Image: Princes of Darkness 5 52 - Fashion Flash: Stay Happy in the Rain 54 - Spanish: Great Minds Think Alike 56 - Wellness: Superfoods - Berry of Happiness and Health

60 Community

60 - Feature: Costa Rica's Presidential Election 62 - CR History in Photos: Puntarenas 64 - Building CR: Built-In Safety By Design 66 - Pet Care: An Extraordinary Case of Caring 68 - Legal Ease: HOA Meetings 68 - Simply Spanish: Body Parts 70 - Community Activities & Information 72 - Community Directory

75 Dining Guide

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76 - Dining Guide Restaurants 88 - Restaurant Directory 89 - Contributors

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COMMUNITY SERVICES

AMBULANCE, HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS EMERGENCIAS 2000 +506 8380-4125 GULF OF PAPAGAYO AMBULANCE +506 2670-0047 LIBERIA AMBULANCE +506 2666-7666

FIRE UNIT

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POLICE & LAW ENFORCEMENT

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ALCOHOLICS ANONYMOUS TAMARINDO | Waves of Sobriety Mon / Thur • 5:30 pm | Wed / Sat • 10:30 am Behind the Tamarindo circle, through Pedro´s Surf Shop Ellen 2653-0897 / 8484-1360 ellenzoe@aol.com Jacqueline 8332-5540 jacqueline.haskell@yahoo.com VILLARREAL (Español) |Vida Real Jose Chops 8720-1984

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SANTA CRUZ +506 2681-4000 Monday / Wednesday / Friday - 6:00pm LA FORTUNA DE SAN CARLOS +506 2479-1553 Sardinal Beach

TILARAN +506 2695-8475 Centro Plaza Sardinal(50 mts east from police), store N. 6.

SAN JOSE +506 2295-3851 Max 8917-2222 or John 2672-1163

ACCIDENT REPORT & VEHICLE ASSISTANCE 800 800-8001 HIGHWAY PATROL 1117 8 | Read. like. share. | online

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If you have updated or additional information for useful numbers, please contact editor@howlermag.com or +506 4701-5942

EDITORIAL

B

eing involved with causes in our community draws us together. It hits my heart to see an animal in distress, so I have had some personal involvement with animal rescue efforts. A few people have referred to me as Doctor Dolittle, which just makes me chuckle.

So many others who help with animal rescues are unsung heroes. Dawn Scott in Flamingo Beach, who we sadly lost last year, was instrumental in many programs that trained people in the area to care for their pets and treat them with love and kindness as members of the family. Champions who have stepped forward to help fill Dawn’s big shoes include those in groups such as Barbara’s Animal Friendship Center. There are many others who work tirelessly and immerse themselves in the care of animals in need.

We also have a dedicated community of veterinarians with big hearts and a giving spirit. I personally want to thank Dr. Cavallini for caring so much and helping me with Bean, a dog I rescued and wrote about in the August 2016 Howler. I still think about this sweet dog. Please support our veterinarians. They give back so much that remains unseen, yet still have to maintain a business. Never take for granted their efforts, or forget that money makes the world go round. Supporting them requires patronizing their businesses.

Many volunteers worked hard putting together the Dog Day Afternoon fundraising event last month at Lucy’s in Brasilito. Special thanks to Pam Graham for all her efforts. Many individuals and businesses came to the table Almanara Beauty Spa Angela Nessel Angelina’s Restaurant Beach House Restaurant Bermuda Hotel Supply Bohemia Restaurant Cindy LeBlanc Carpe Diem Cindy Tideman Corissa Levair & Debra Goode Coco Beauty Spa Coco Loco Restaurant Costa Dental Costa Rica Beach Umbrellas Costa Rica Sailing Center David Kepler & Allen Lungo Diamante Eco Adventure Park Dr. Villalobos Dr. Grace Cabanas Dragonfly Restaurant

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HOWLER T r o o p

with auction items and prizes they donated to make this fundraiser a success. I want to thank the organizers and Lucy’s as well as those on the list of sponsors below. I encourage you to also support these angels of animals.

Dog Day Afternoon was well attended and raised much-needed resources to assist Barbara with her ongoing animal rescue efforts.

Of course, this money goes a long way, but is never enough to meet the needs of vulnerable animals indefinitely. Supporters of annual events tend to forget that these groups need continual support all year long.

I have written about this subject more than once, and it never gets old. The caring nature of our animal heroes is amazing and their efforts never stop. It’s a night and day process that repeats itself with new challenges. Countless animals are being discarded all the time: kittens dumped with no mother to feed them, dogs in distress from tick fever or malnutrition, and all manner of wildlife from birds and snakes to howler monkeys and other wonderful creatures.

Thank you for supporting our community and not forgetting those creatures that have no voice. Please continue all year long to make sure this effort never ends.

El Be! Club El Castillo Restaurant Flor Y Bambu Good Vibes Rock School Hotel Pasatiempo Jorge Granados La Botella de Leche La Hoja Verde Perlas Restaurant La Senda Labyrinth Las Brisas Lavender Spa Los Altos de Eros Lucy’s Retired Surfers Restaurant Manta Ray Private Charters Marie’s Restaurant Mariner Inn Restaurant Maxwell’s Café MerKdo Mermaids and Sailors Boutique howlermag.com

Mexican Connection Movement Dance Studio Natures Art Numu Restaurant Pacific Horses Papaya Restaurant Petit Paris Pura Vida French Touch Pizzetteria Potrero Real Experiences Costa Rica Reserva Conchal Shawn Ruhwedder Ser Om Shanti Yoga Studio Sol Y Mar Restaurant Surfside Golf Carts The Howler Magazine The Movement Dance Studio The Shack Restaurant Vista Canyon Inn WetAss Sportfishing

May 2018 Vol. 23 No. 05 PUBLISHER / EDITOR-in-CHIEF John B. Quam BUSINESS DEVELOpmENT Martin Svoboda M A N A G I N G PA R T N E R S John B. Quam Martin Svoboda D i r e c t o r o f O p e r at i o n s Marynes F. Chops E d i t o r i a l S ta f f Debbie Bride - Production Director Marian Paniagua - Admin Director Karl Kahler - Staff Writer Graphic Design Team Martin Svoboda - Art Director Debbie Bride - Design Consultant M. Alauddin - Design Layout Marian Paniagua - Photo Procurement WEBMASTER Maria Focsa Cover Art Island photo by Giancarlo Pucci behind layered montage of prison images.

C o n ta c t John Quam: headmonkey@howlermag.com Martin Svoboda: martin@howlermag.com Editor: editor@howlermag.com Advertising: ads@howlermag.com CR Office: (506) 4701-5942 US Office: (720) 507-7596 (leave message) Facebook: Howler Magazine Costa Rica Twitter: @thehowlermag The Howler Gold Coast CR S.A. Ced. Juridica: 3-101-725213 The opinions, beliefs and viewpoints expressed by the various authors in this publication do not necessarily reflect the opinions, beliefs and viewpoints of The Howler organization or its advertisers.

Copyright © 2018 by The Howler Gold Coast CR S.A. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission requests, write to: info@howlermag.com The Howler Magazine does not assume responsibility for the content of its advertisements

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HELL HOTEL COVER STORY

by Karl Kahler

Brutal conditions at San Lucas prison island made the death penalty look humane.

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or the most incorrigible misbehavior, like killing another prisoner, inmates at the San Lucas prison island were lowered into “the hole” — literally a hole in the middle of a big concrete disc on top of what was designed to be a cistern to hold rainwater.

This underground dungeon actually did hold water, sometimes up to a man’s midriff, so the unfortunate souls condemned to this gruesome punishment were unable to sit, much less lie down and sleep, for however many days and nights they had to endure this torture.

“You had to stand for days, and sometimes they had people in there for like a month, and they came out either dead or crazy,” said Vigdis Vatshaug, the Norwegian tour guide who led my family on a fascinating and disturbing tour of one of the most brutal prison islands on earth — right here in the happiest country in the world, in the Gulf of Nicoya, a short boat ride away from Playa Naranjo.

San Lucas Island is best-known as

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the setting of “La isla de los hombres solos” (“The Island of Lonely Men”), a novel written by the former inmate José León Sánchez, a Tico accused of stealing religious icons from the Basilica of Cartago who spent 30 years imprisoned here.

In this case, the truth is every bit as strange as the fiction. As soon as we disembarked from our boat at the rusty old pier, we climbed the steps to the “Camino de Amargura,” the “Road of Bitterness” that greeted new inmates upon arrival during the years the prison was open, from 1873 to 1991.

Flanking this road are two small, dirty rooms, now filled with bats, where new arrivals were welcomed by being corralled into a filthy, crowded enclosure with no place to sit or sleep except the floor.

They were given very little food, and the bathroom was a bucket in the middle of the floor. New arrivals spent several days in this dungeon — letting them know what lay ahead, and undoubtedly making them thankful when they were released to larger

San Lucas Island from the air. Photo: Giancarlo Pucci

This dock was and is the only entrance to San Lucas Island, except for another landing place where horses and bulls were brought in for rodeos and bullfights.

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Aerial view of the central compound at San Lucas. Photo: Recaredo Cerdas

quarters with separate latrines.

“People were not punished for doing something wrong,” Vigdis said. “They were punished so they wouldn’t do anything wrong.”

Photos by Karl Karl Kahler

but Vigdis said all escapees died or were recaptured.

The brave hooker

The happiest story we heard was about the day the prostitute came. Vigdis The ball and chain related a tale from the book about a prison Each inmate was issued a ball and commander who hated homosexuality, chain attached to his ankle, with the which was rampant on a prison island for size of the iron ball commensurate to his only men. crime. The largest iron ball might weigh The warden decided that the only 50 pounds, and these were never removed. way to put a stop to all the sodomy was Prisoners oddly took pride in keeping to bring in women. So the guards went to their ball and chain clean, according to Puntarenas (also known as “Putarenas”) Sánchez’s book. and recruited prostitutes to service the “They all kept polishing and keeping prisoners. their ball and chain very “And the Prisoners oddly nice,” Vigdis said. “They prisoners were of never would drag it because took pride in course excited,” then it would be dirty; there Vigdis said. “They was a pride in having a very keeping their ball cleaned up the best nice ball and chain.” they could, and and chain clean.

In the worst cases, were making little Vigdis said, two men were shackled presents for the ladies. shoulder to shoulder, so that neither “So the boat comes back from man could sit, lie, walk or void his bowels Puntarenas and it’s empty — because without the other man at his side. these prostitutes have only heard of this Some men spent decades here, and prison as a very dangerous place, with a great many died in this desolate place. brutal criminals, murderers, rapists. But Vigdis said an astonishing 20 percent, one they tried again the next Sunday and one out of five, died in their first year. woman came. And the guards said they put A few men managed to escape, having her in the visitation house, and everybody removed their shackles with tools they got in line, and they decided how much were given to break rocks. They had to time they had with her. brave strong currents to swim to the “She went back to Puntarenas and nearest island, or even to the mainland, said the prisoners were all well-behaved

Graffito depicting a soccer player, apparently Pelé. | Read. Cerdas like. share. | online howlermag.com Photo:14 Recaredo

The recently renovated church, right, is the only structure on this island that is pretty, but unfortunately it’s locked. The casona where commanders lived, left, recently burned to the ground. Photo: Recaredo Cerdas

and they all loved her and said she was here, as the prison’s log books were thrown beautiful and everything, so the following into the sea years ago. Vigdis is aware of Sundays there were more coming in.” one nonfiction book about the prison, “Una My girlfriend, Guiselle, who used to live historia sin fin,” “A Story With No End,” in nearby Paquera and visited this island but she has never been able to find it. Most many years ago, said of her information Laundry service was comes from Sánchez’s the youngest, bestlooking prisoners novel and from the oral as nonexistent as were taken as lovers histories related by medical attention, by the toughest former guards, prisoners inmates, and if they and of course people and visitors. were unfaithful, smelled pretty bad. they were killed.

Laundry service Vigdis said several men were forced into Inmates were issued a striped uniform prostitution, or did it willingly, servicing anyone who could pay with a bowl of food, a upon arrival that had to last them two or three years. In the early days, laundry shirt or whatever. service was as nonexistent as medical The walls of the nine cellblocks attention, and of course people smelled here are covered with graffiti, including pretty bad. pornographic pictures and forlorn “So a lot of the prisoners walked around comments. One note says, “Kneepads and naked because they had lost a shirt in a bet bibs sold here,” signed by the gerente de over a piece of bread,” Vigdis said. “They ventas, the “sales manager.” could only wash [clothes] if they were on One striking drawing portrays a the beach, in salt water, but the only fresh larger-than-life-size woman in a sexy water they got was to drink.” pose, wearing a bikini that Vigdis said was If a prisoner died, other inmates could reportedly painted in blood.

“Some say that he cut himself every day buy his clothes with some of their food.

“And the people that died, they were to paint again and again, and other stories often sick and had infection and lice and say that he cut other people to collect so on,” she said. “And you were so happy blood,” she said. because it was a better shirt, or maybe you Guiselle, who once met a former didn’t have any, and you’re wearing the San Lucas prisoner, said he told her that sweat and the blood of someone who just someone killed another prisoner here and died.” used his blood to write on the wall: “This is The architects of this island were how I’m going to die.”

French, who were experts in prison islands It’s hard to separate truth from legend Photos by Karl Karl Kahler

A surprisingly well-drawn graffito of girl in bikini withprinted umbrella, stands out amid muchlaments A neatly poem, in perfect rhyme, cruder pornography scrawled on thehere walls. that it’s not crime that’s punished but poverty.

Photo: Recaredo Cerdas HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 15

Prison cellblocks surrounding the infamous punishment hole. Photo: Recaredo Cerdas Inside one of the prison cellblocks. Photo: Recaredo Cerdas

If You Go Contact: Call Vigdis Vatshaug at 26410811, 8850-5314 or 8364-6966. Write to her at post@bahiarica.com, or visit her website at www.bahiarica.com.

Rates: Bahía Rica tours cost $60 per person, including lunch and boat ride, plus $12 park entrance fee for foreigners.

Location: Pickup is near the town of Naranjo. You can drive here from most parts of Guanacaste in about two hours, or if you’re coming from points east or south, take the ferry from Puntarenas.

What to bring: Insect repellent is highly recommended for this buggy island.

(look up Devil’s Island, or read the book “Papillon”). The worst of the horrors here date from the late 19th and early 20th century, though a nationwide prison reform in the 1960s eased conditions here considerably. Balls and chains were abolished, and some prisoners were able to build crude houses, plant gardens and raise chickens.

A suspicious fire There is a beautiful little church here, newly renovated, though it is locked up.

Adjacent to it, there used to be a threestory casona, with bedrooms and offices for the warden and guards — although it made national news when this building was burned to the ground on the night of Nov. 24-25, 2017. Speculation has it that illegal fishermen may have burned the house as payback for the government’s confiscation of their fishing equipment.

The casona looked out on a courtyard containing the concrete disc with “the hole,” and just beyond that are seven cellblocks that housed perhaps 100 people each.

The people in the cellblocks could hear the screams and cries of the wretched

people standing in water day and night in the hole. And meanwhile, all the prisoners could smell the delicious food being served in the casona at dinner parties for the commander and his guards.

Costa Rica’s most miserable allinclusive resort was finally closed in 1991, its inmates relocated to other prisons.

José León Sánchez was declared innocent of the Basilica crime in 1988, and today he is Costa Rica’s best-known writer. He is still alive and living in Heredia.

“Are there any ghosts here?” I asked Vigdis.

“There are lots of ghosts,” she said.

One graffito on the wall, in neat handwriting and perfect rhyme, says: En este lugar Maldito Que Reina La Tristeza No se Castiga el Delito Se Castiga la Pobreza A free translation: In this God-forsaken place Of sadness all the time It’s not crime that makes the case It’s poverty that’s the crime

A neatly printed poem, in perfect rhyme, laments that it’s not crime that’s punished here but poverty. Photo: Karl Kahler This kitchen was still under construction when the San Lucas prison closed in 1991. The roof has since disintegrated and trees have taken root inside the walls. Photo: Karl Kahler

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San Lucas Prison Island & Boat Tour

Departures from Paquera and Playa Naranjo

10% HOWLER Discount

Tel: 2641-0811 / 8850-5314 / 8364-6966 Email: post@bahiarica.com

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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 17

Puntarenas to Nicoya Peninsula

by Jenn Parker

AROUND THE GULF

Ferry from Puntarenas to Nicoya Peninsula

If you truly want to experience local life in Costa Rica, spending a day in Puntarenas is one way to accomplish that.

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P

untarenas, a name shared between Costa Rica’s largest province and what once was the largest fishing port in the country, is a destination that has a wealth of culture, history and activities to offer curious and adventurous travelers. The Gulf of Nicoya divides Puntarenas from the southern part of the Nicoya Peninsula.

Spending time in this part of Costa Rica is sure to be an extraordinary experience, especially if you plan to explore and engage in the following highly recommended places, tours and activities.

Local flavor The town of Puntarenas is one of the very few beach towns that is actually not heavily populated by international tourists. In fact, Puntarenas, locally referred to as El Puerto, is a popular local tourist destination, as well as being a quaint fishing village. If you truly want to experience local life in Costa Rica, spending a day in Puntarenas is one way to accomplish that.

The main road, which is called Paseo de los Turistas, hugs the coastline and is lined with traditional Costa Rican restaurants, bars and street vendors. There are park benches beneath palm trees, swing sets and

playgrounds, and plenty of spots to post up and drink an icy cold beer and have a ceviche for non-tourist prices. The people of Puntarenas are friendly, happy go-lucky and welcoming to visitors.

Puntarenas is only an hour and a half from San José, which makes it very desirable to locals looking for a quick weekend getaway. The second and third week of February, in particular, is an exciting time to be in Puntarenas, as that’s when the Puntarenas Carnivals takes place. Carnivals in Puntarenas are complete with a traditional tope, live music, carnival rides and games, fireworks, plenty of dancing, a seemingly endless supply of beer and Cacique, and of course, Costa Rican-style bullfighting.

From Puntarenas, you can catch the ferry across the Gulf of Nicoya to Paquera.

The ferry runs several times throughout the day and takes about 70 minutes to get from one side to the other. This is the easiest and fastest mode of transportation from Puntarenas to the Nicoya Peninsula, where you can take a boat tour to Isla Tortuga or Isla San Lucas, plus explore the beach towns of Montezuma, Mal País and Santa Teresa.

Prison island Isla San Lucas was an infernal island prison, and now it's a historical landmark and protected wildlife refuge. To say that this island has been to hell and back is an understatement. The island is home to howler monkeys, deer and a number of other Costa Rican native animals. A half day guided tour of the island is an

eye-opening, educational and enthralling experience. Boat tours typically leave from Paquera, from the area around Paquera, where the ferry docks.

A different kind of island experience There are multiple islands in the Gulf of Nicoya. An amazing way to spend a day while staying on the Nicoya Peninsula is by taking a catamaran cruise to the postcard picture-worthy Isla Tortuga. This day adventure is complete with opportunities to snorkel, kayak, soak in the crystal-clear sea, lie on the white sand beaches, enjoy a delicious lunch and cocktails (alcoholic or non-alcoholic), and experience part of Costa Rica’s marine territory.

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 19

Walk to a waterfall The Montezuma waterfall hike is a short and sweet trek that ends with the reward of a marvel-worthy cascade.

This famous waterfall is only a 15-minute walk from the center of Montezuma. This is a popular weekend picnic spot of local families and when you arrive you will understand why.

Make sure to wear your swimsuit as there is refreshing waterfall pool that you can swim in.

Isla Tortuga

Surf’s always up in Santa Teresa Santa Teresa has long been a famous surf destination in Costa Rica.

There are multiple breaks that are perfectly suited for all different levels. This charming bohemian beach town is definitely worth spending some time in.

The beaches are gorgeous, the vibes are very pura vida, and there is plenty to do even for the nonsurfers.

Wait, there’s more The southern part of the Nicoya Peninsula is also home to the Cabo Blanco Nature Reserve, plenty of yoga retreats and studios, surf camps, secluded beaches, eco-friendly boutique accommodations, backpacker-friendly hotels and hostels, a delectable variety of dining options, funky bars, live music opportunities and the chance to experience the magic of this part of Costa Rica.

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Photos by Esteban Delgado

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MAGAZINE | 21

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

Lucky Lovers Leap into Adventure of a Lifetime FEATURED ADVENTURE

by Christine Larson

A

dventurous, fun-loving, daring and definitely in love! Larena’s Instagram post was all it took to inspire a much grander prize than what she and her husband, Robert, were envisioning as contestants to star in their own action movie. Like other hopefuls in our Lucky Valentine Costa Rica Challenge, the pair’s sights were set not only on a oncein-a-lifetime experience courtesy of my company, Desafio Adventure Co., but also a professionally edited video recording of the event.

What gave Robert and Larena the winning edge was their expressed desire to celebrate a mutually profound passion for adventure, and for each other, on the same spectacularly romantic occasion. They were exactly the kind of lucky valentine couple we were looking for when the February 2018 contest was conceived.

Responding almost immediately to our call for entries, the attractive couple from Southern California told us they were planning a trip to Costa Rica for their 20th anniversary, and would love to have Desafio help commemorate their visit on film.

What they had in mind is Costa Rica’s most extreme kind of experience — our Gravity Falls waterfall jumping tour.

Larena’s Instagram feed read: “Feb 1st the month of love starts the official countdown for our next adventure! 26 days

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The jump was perfectly executed — so well that both bride and groom touched the water in perfect synchronicity.

and 13 hours until he sweeps me off my feet again and we take off to celebrate 20 years of marriage!”

Instantly, it dawned on us to offer Robert and Larena a wedding vow renewal ceremony as part of their Gravity Falls adventure. Tui Frye of Blue Butterfly

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Events was in on the scheme right away, and it didn’t take much convincing for Robert and Larena to agree.

The day before the ceremony, one of our drivers picked up Robert and Larena at the airport and took them to their hotel in the Arenal area, the Royal Corin.

Next morning at 7 o’clock, the makeup and hair artist, Victoria, was first on the scene. As she put the finishing touches on Larena’s radiant face, our guide, David Arias, showed up at the hotel, along with Oscar Obregon, the photographer, and Matt Schaefer, who would conduct the wedding vow renewal ceremony.

Judging from the first few photos, Robert and Larena seemed to have undergone some apprehensive moments, perhaps thinking to themselves, “What on earth have we signed up for?”

But by the time Oscar had warmed up with photos of the starry-eyed couple hugging and kissing in front of the picturesque Arenal Volcano, the soonto-be “renewlyweds” were clearly getting into it. Smiling deeply into her husband’s eyes, Larena looked stunning from one Kodak moment to the next. She had worried needlessly about being unable to find the right dress for the occasion on short notice, scoring rose-toned perfection in an elegantly flattering style with lacy overcoat. As if cooperating in every sense

of luckiness, the sun also beamed warmly through a cloudless sky onto the oftenelusive volcano backdrop.

Meanwhile, unbeknownst to Robert and Larena, Matt had them engaged in an ice-breaking routine for his own purpose.

Asking specific questions in an on-camera interview format, he was picking up pieces of “juicy” personal information to incorporate strategically with the wedding vow ceremony later on. Opportunities arose during a few more stops the couple made en route to the Gravity Falls entrance, one to see a baby sloth and another to catch

the big smile on Larena’s face and Robert’s words of appreciation upon arrival at the floral arched altar we had constructed for the ceremony, greeted by the whole team involved in planning the event.

“I feel like we are on ‘The Bachelor’ show,” said Robert. “We feel like such celebrities!”

Matt was all set to officiate with a romantic vow script provided by Tui, adding sprinklings of his own quick humor. Aside from our paparazzi presence, the ceremony itself remained private for the wedding couple, with Matt’s voice drowned out from an onlooker’s distance by the roaring waterfall dominating other sounds of nature. But we were pretty sure he said something like, “You may now kiss Larena...” because the two suddenly locked into a romantic smooch before turning to thank everyone present for making this

some amazing shots from the Peñas Blancas suspension bridge.

Some of the video footage reveals that Robert and Larena were not waterfall rappelling novices, having enjoyed a smaller-scale adventure in Jamaica on their honeymoon 20 years ago. In fact, getting ready for the Gravity Falls excursion actually brought back many golden memories about the nervousness and emotions of getting married two decades earlier.

“It is a dream come true ... that we never really dreamed would actually happen” said Larena, “and a bit of a déjà vu.”

The drive by Desafio jungle limo through deep forest terrain was followed by a short hike to the Gravity Falls base site beneath the 150-foot canyon drop. I will never forget

special moment possible. Admittedly, we were all a bit teary-eyed.

Oscar directed the couple to pose in various parts of the canyon beneath the waterfall and along the mossy wall. Next, we cut the tres leches cake and made a wedding toast with fresh coconut water drinks.

Finally, it was time for the ultimate

Photos courtesy of Desafio Adventure Co.

lovers’ leap, which Tui convinced Robert and Larena to make from the first waterfall jump while still dressed in their ceremony clothes.

The jump was perfectly executed — so well that both bride and groom touched the water in perfect synchronicity and Larena never let go of the natural jungle floral bouquet she was holding.

We were able to get amazing shots and video of this tandem feat, not just once, but three times.

With all that adrenaline uncorked, we gave Robert and Larena some space to change into clothing better suited for the original purpose of their second honeymoon trip. At last, from the top, they were ready to enjoy the whole gamut of Desafio’s renowned Gravity Falls adventure. The excursion ended in style with a romantic lunch along the Peñas Blancas River, before we took them back to their hotel.

Robert and Larena stayed in touch during the rest of their stay in Costa Rica, while visiting Monteverde and various locales along the Guanacaste coast.

“We are still on cloud nine!” they told us. “Our (3) children won’t believe what we’ve just done. This has been an incredible adventure of a lifetime!”

It seemed even more incredible for us, and inspirational, to share in the love of a truly beautiful “lucky” couple who obviously haven’t lost the spark of adventure and romance after 20 years of marriage.

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 23

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

GUAYABO

History of a Mystery

COOL PLACES

by Karl Kahler

T

There was no written language, or else we might know what these people called themselves.

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Tom Schultz

he strange thing about Costa Rica’s richest archaeological site is that nobody knows who lived there, where they came from or why they went away.

An unknown civilization inhabited what is today Guayabo National Monument, about two hours east of San José, between 1000 BCE and 1400 CE. These people vanished a century before the arrival of the Spanish, and nobody knows why.

The inhabitants of this site were prodigious builders who left behind several stone mounds, cobblestone roads, petroglyphs, graves, aqueducts and water storage tanks that still work. The site was declared an “International Historic Civil Engineering Landmark” in 2009.

Archaeologists say this was a cacicazgo, a chiefdom ruled by a cacique, a chief, and a shaman, a spiritual leader. One or both of these men are thought to have lived in centrally located, cone-shaped wooden homes on top of mounds of stone. The stones are still there but the homes are long gone.

The approach to this power center was an uphill cobblestone road with steps that were short in height but broad in front, requiring an approaching person to keep looking up, as if to a higher power. The base of this road was flanked by identical rectangular structures

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dubbed “checkpoints” that controlled access to the central village.

Today most of these ancient wonders have eroded to rubble that could be mistaken for random boulders in a field. But one feature — the old cobblestone road called the Calzada Caragra — was reconstructed in modern times to show what it might have once looked like.

The modern restoration is just 100 meters long, though the ancient road is believed to have been 4 to 5 kilometers long.

The central settlement is thought to have

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The rectangular “checkpoints” at the bottom of the Calzada Caragra may have been the ancient equivalent of guard shacks.

been the administrative and spiritual center of an array of villages that supplied the labor to build the mounds, homes, roads and aqueducts.

“The great monuments at Guayabo reflect a centralization of political and religious power, suggesting this was the capital of a chiefdom,” reads one of the signs along the trails here.

“Power must have been exercised as a result of the main leader’s sacred investiture with warrior support,” the sign says.

“Territorial dominance must have involved settlements with varying importance under Guayabo rule. Cobblestone roads suggest this was a ceremonial center visited by people from other communities and also connected to subsidiary sites and lesser chiefdoms. The distribution of sites with architectural works shows this chiefdom ruled a 15-kilometer radius.”

Axes and other agricultural tools found here suggest that the people were peaceful

farmers, though some of these implements may have been used in battle as well.

Tombs of important people can be seen throughout the site, as well as petroglyphs depicting animals. There was no written language, or else we might know what these people called themselves.

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Guayabo is open to visitors daily from 8 a.m. to 3:30 p.m.

To get there in your own car, take Hwy. 2 east out of San José and follow the brown signs to “Parque Nacional Volcán Irazú” and “Monumento Nacional Guayabo.” There’s a turnoff to the right next to a big statue of Jesus. Guayabo is about 85 kilometers east of San José, and four-wheel drive is recommended for the final stretch of steep and rugged gravel.

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SIMPLY SPANISH

Tico Sayings a cachete — literally “to the cheek,” this means everything is excellent, everything is perfect. amarrar el perro — “to tie up the dog,” meaning to fail to pay a debt, to stiff someone, not to pay all or part of what’s owed. color de hormiga — “the color of an ant,” this means something is complicated. ¿Cómo está el arroz? — “How’s the rice?” How’s the situation, how are you doing with that issue? Also, ¿Cómo anda el tamal? has the same meaning. como quien se quita una avispa del culo — “like someone removes a wasp from their ass,” meaning fast, quickly, right now. culo con tres nalgas — “ass with three cheeks,” meaning a woman who thinks she’s better than everyone else, even if she’s nobody and nothing. hijo de la gran puta — “son of the big whore,” an expression of astonishment, like when watching an incredible video of scuba divers swimming with white sharks. mucho con demasiado — “much with too much,” meaning there’s way too much of something. tamaño poco — although this literally means “small amount,” it means the opposite: a lot, more than normal.

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TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

The pool is cool and swimmable, and in most places the sandy bottom is easy on bare feet.

by Karl Kahler

WATERY WONDER Llanos de Cortés Waterfall is well worth a visit But the pool is cool and swimmable, and in most places the sandy bottom is easy on bare feet. And there’s lots of shade spread around the base, and plenty of rocks or logs to sit on, or flat places to lie on a blanket.

This attraction is under new management as of February. Previously it was open to the public for a voluntary donation that went to local schools.

Then for a while the dirt road leading to the falls was closed to vehicles, requiring a long walk.

Now the Municipality of Bagaces administers the falls, charging $7 admission for foreigners and c2,000 for nationals. There’s a large parking lot with a bathroom, and a lifeguard who blows his whistle when people get too

close to the falls (there is a danger of falling rock, he told me).

Posted rules prohibit alcoholic beverages, smoking and pets, though we broke two of these rules and nobody blew any whistles at us.

To get to Llanos de Cortés from Liberia on Hwy. 1 South, count the pedestrian bridges overhead and when you see the fourth one, turn right immediately after it (almost underneath it) on a little dirt road. The turnoff is about 20 km from Liberia and 4km before Bagaces.

The gravel road will take you to a guard shack where you pay admission, and then it’s a short drive to the parking lot.

Prepare to be impressed!

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 27

OFF THE BEATEN PATH

S

ome say Llanos de Cortés is the most beautiful waterfall in Costa Rica, and in this country that’s saying a lot.

Thirty minutes south of Liberia near Bagaces, these falls are about 20 meters tall and roughly the same width, with a half-dozen places on top where the water spills over the edge. This creates a beautiful effect, with water streaming downward across a broad cliff face rather than plunging down in one torrent.

Strong waterfalls often dig deep pools at their base, allowing safe cliff jumping, but that’s not the case here.

The rock of the cliff base can be brittle, making it dangerous to climb, and the pool is not all that deep.

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

T Black-tailed tree boa

TREE BOAS CREATURE FEATURE

by Vern Veer

hree species of tree boa are common throughout many areas of Costa Rica: garden, annulated and black-tailed.

As their name indicates, all three types of tree boa are characterized by their arboreal existence. They are very efficient constrictors, preying on lizards and small mammals while hunting in the trees at night. They also breed and give birth to their live young in their arboreal habitats.

Tree boas also have in common a highly aggressive nature. They will not hesitate to inflict a painful and deep bite wound with their long teeth. None of them, however, are venomous, so the bites will normally heal with a little care and some topical antiseptic.

All three species are best observed at night by shining a light into the trees and bushes and looking for eye shine.

The garden tree boa occurs in many

Garden tree boa

Costa Rica has three species, and no, they're not venomous, but yes, they bite.

by Vern Veer

different color phases and patterns, from grays and browns to vibrant yellows, reds and oranges.

The annulated tree boa occurs in two common color phases of red or gray, with varying intensities of each.

The black-tailed tree boa is normally only bronze and black, with a distinct pattern and a shiny black tail.

Adult tree boas average five to six feet in length, with the black-tailed tree boa being the longest and heaviest. The annulated tree boa can be distinguished from the garden tree boa by its heavier body and chunkier, broader head.

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Annulated tree boa

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TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

How to handle money in Costa Rica

by Karl kahler

• •

•

•

•

Dollars are widely accepted here, so if you’re from the U.S., by all means bring dollars. If you’re not from the U.S., consider changing some of your currency to U.S. dollars before coming. But read on.

Many businesses will not accept $50s or $100s, on suspicion that they may be counterfeit. It’s best to bring $20s, and smaller bills also come in handy for tipping or for small purchases.

•

calculations in your head. However, in recent years the colón has lost value against the dollar, so that now $1 is worth about c567. The upshot is that if a merchant on the street is selling a knickknack for c10,000, and you ask how much in dollars, he may say $20. But in fact it should be closer to $17.60.

When handling coins, the rough 500-to-1 rule is useful for doing calculations in your head. If c500 is roughly $1, then c100 is roughly 20 cents, c50 is 10 cents, and the little silver-colored c5 and c10 coins are practically worthless.

All ATMs dispense money in colones, but some give you a choice of dollars.

If you use dollars at most businesses, you will usually get colones in change at an unfavorable exchange rate. This is not a big deal when spending small amounts, and it’s fine to spend dollars on your taxi from the airport, but eventually you’ll want to change your dollars to colones.

Do not change money at the airport, unless it’s a small amount, because the exchange rate is terrible. (And it’s even worse if you buy colones at the airport in your home country.) Find a Costa Rican bank and change your money there — and bring your passport, because you can’t change money without it.

For years, there has been a simple rule of thumb that, roughly speaking, c500 is $1, c1,000 is $2, c5,000 is $10, c10,000 is $20, etc. So to calculate the exchange rate in your head for colones to dollars, you drop three zeros and double the number. This remains a popular way to make change at small businesses, and is useful for making rough

•

•

•

Often the best option for obtaining money in colones is simply to bring your debit card and use it to take money out of an ATM (“cajero”). All ATMs dispense money in colones, but some give you a choice of dollars, so if you’re given a choice, select colones. You may want to check with your bank first to see if your debit card will work in a foreign country.

Credit and debit cards are widely accepted at most businesses, though you will occasionally find smaller restaurants or stores that don’t accept them. Some taxis can process cards and some can’t, so it’s best to ask. Be aware that most credit cards charge a 3 percent surcharge for foreign purchases, which can add up, but a few credit cards (like Capital One) do not. You may want to consider getting a card that doesn’t penalize you for being in a foreign country.

Travelers checks are not recommended — they are accepted in very few places and they’re a hassle to buy in your own country and another hassle to cash in this one.

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 29

WHAT TO EXPECT

M

any visitors to Costa Rica wonder if they should bring a lot of cash when they come, where and how to change foreign currencies, and whether or not it’s best to use a credit card. Here’s some advice:

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Jacรณ and Avellanas Waves You've Missed

Surf Spot Santa Teresa

Profile

SUP Valeria Salustri

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Surfer deep in the barrel at Santa Teresa. Photo: Esteban Delgado

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SURFING COSTA RICA

JACร

Photographer: Jorge A. Russell About: A native of Spain, Jorge has been an avid photographer since he was 14 years old. He has been making a living as a professional photographer in Costa Rica since 2004.

Based in Jacรณ 8836-6475 jorgerussellphotographer@ gmail.com @fotografodeaccion

Jason Torres making the most of the waves in Jacรณ, April 6, 2018.

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Beto, catching air April 6, 2018 in Jacรณ. Photo: Jorge Russell

WAVES YOU'VE MISSED

by Jenn Parker

S

well season is fast approaching, and the Pacific coast is already getting glimpses of it. There was a nice string of south swells with some hints of west that lit up the Central Pacific coastline with consistent chest-to head-high-plus waves. Surfers in Playa Jacรณ enjoyed glassy morning conditions up and down the peaky beach break. While this zone is often surfable on all tides, the best surf is typically enjoyed closer to the mid-to high tide.

Mid-March blessed Avellenas with two sizeable south swells within a week of one another. The morning of March 21 presented the ideal swell and wind direction, as well as tide for the Avellenas river mouth. The crowd was surprisingly thin, but full of good vibes and total surf stoke filled this portion of the sea. While the sets were a bit lully, there were plenty of waves for everyone to share. The outside set waves were a foot or two overhead and those who were patient were rewarded with an exhilarating drop and a long open ride.

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 33

COSTA RICA DINNER ADVENTURE

SURFING COSTA RICA

Short Estuary Trip to Dinner at The Great Waltini’s in Bula Bula Hotel

View crocodiles, birds, monkeys and more Tamarindo to Palm Beach Estates via boat Enjoy a delightful dinner Return via boat to Tamarindo SEE DINING GUIDE AD PAGE 83

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Estero at Playa Avellanas, March 21, 2018

Photos Jorge A. Russell

Carlos Muñoz, surfing backside at Lola's, Playa Avellanas, March 18, 2018

WAVES YOU'VE MISSED ... cont'd

Playa Avellanas

Nick Melanson, walking to the nose at Palo Seco, Playa Avellanas, April 5, 2018

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Jenn Parker waited patiently for that left peeler in the Avellenas river mouth on March 21, 2018

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 35

Surfing COSTA RICA

by Jenn Parker

SURF SPOT

SANTA TERESA P

laya Santa Teresa is located on the southern cusp of the Nicoya Peninsula, an area internationally revered as a Blue Zone (one of five places in the world where a significant number of people are living extraordinarily long lives in great health and happiness).

This thriving bohemian beach town is blessed with at least half a dozen common knowledge surf breaks that cater to different surfing abilities, wave preferences and swell size. Aside from being a tropical wave garden, Santa Teresa is also a haven for yogis, nature lovers, free-spirited good vibrationseeking travelers and locals alike.

How to get there

There are several viable options to get to Santa Teresa. It is a 4.5-hour drive from Liberia down a mix of paved and dirt roads but it is scenic and relatively easy. There are plenty

of places to stop along the way to grab a coffee or an empanada, fill the tank or just stretch your legs. From San José, the best approach is to drive to Puntarenas and take the ferry across the Gulf of Nicoya to Paquera, then drive the remaining 90 minutes to Santa Teresa. Taking the ferry across is quite an enjoyable and beautiful

Suck Rock has been known to hold double overhead to triple overhead waves on a higher tide.

experience. If driving isn’t your thing, Sansa flies from multiple destinations throughout Costa Rica, including Liberia and San José, to the small airport in Tambor, which is less than an hour away via taxi or private shuttle.

Where to surf

The best answer starts with a preliminary question: What is your experience level? It’s important to be realistic about your true surfing abilities to ensure you have a safe and enjoyable experience in the sea. There are breaks in Santa Teresa that are not beginnerfriendly. Trying to surf there when inexperienced can result in frustration and worse, including injury to yourself or others.

Playa Santa Teresa has multiple peaks up and down the beach, but three breaks in particular attract most of the locals and visiting surfers: Suck Rock,

Mike Mausteller riding Santa Teresa's hackable, wrappable overhead waves.

A toilet in the latrine, where prisoners were taken as early as 3 a.m. to relieve themselves before eating breakfast in their cells and marching off to work.

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There’s nothing like the anticipation of your next wave, especially when the waves look like this.

Casa Cecilia, and La Lora Amarilla. Suck Rock and La Lora Amarilla are better suited for more experienced surfers, as the waves can be fast, hollow and heavy. On a big swell, Suck Rock has been known to hold double overhead to triple overhead waves on a higher tide. Casa Cecilia, on the other hand, has a reputation for being a novice-friendly wave when the tide is low and there isn’t too much swell in the water.

Playa Carmen is situated between Santa Teresa and Mal País. The rip currents are typically less strong here and when there isn’t a big swell, this beach break is a great place to learn and improve your surfing. The surf is typically best in the lower to mid-tide range.

Local companies

Santa Teresa is no longer the sleepy off-the-beaten path destination it once was.

Since the early 2000s, it has blossomed

into a booming beach town. There are accommodations and dining options for every budget, preference and taste, as well as multiple surf schools, surf shops, small supermarkets, boutique stores and bars.

Santa Teresa is also a hot spot for surf and yoga retreats, including one of the best on the Nicoya Peninsula, Vajra Sol Surf and Yoga Retreat. Latitude 10, Florblanca, and Makanas Beachfront Bungalows are three highly recommended accommodation choices. Nalu Surf School and Blue Sanctuary Surf are two of the top schools, offering lessons, camps, and guiding for surfers at all levels, from total beginners to advanced.

Secret spot in Santa Teresa area

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Working in all of Costa Rica 8622-4036, 2282-6429 estebandg7@gmail.com @dg7photo @dg7foto

Mike Mausteller tucks in, hugs the wall and holds the line.

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 37

Surfing COSTA RICA SURFING COSTA RICA

Already the best in Costa Rica, Valeria is fueled by determination to win the SUP world competition.

Paddling can be peaceful, but for Valeria it's an invigorating communion with nature with many other rewards waiting over the finish line.

Athlete: Valeria Salustri Sport: SUP Age: 17 About: SUP surfing is Valeria's life. She's up early training, either in the water or the gym, and has already collected a nice cache of competitive medals.

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Photos courtesy of Zoilhy Soto

Valeria Salustri PROFILE

by Ellen Zoe Golden

S

he may have started stand-up paddling (SUP) three years ago on a whim when someone suggested she try it, but 17-year-old Valeria Salustri has been killing it ever since. After two years of being the bridesmaid — getting 2nd place in the national circuit for SUP surfing—late last year Salustri took the crown and became Costa Rica’s national women’s SUP champion.

To top it off, the Federación de Surf de Costa Rica recently chose her to represent this country at the first-ever surfing inclusion in the Olympics-sanctioned Central America Games. And there, among competitors from 26 countries, Salustri earned two medals—silver for the women’s SUP race, and gold for the overall win of the Costa Rican team.

“This was the first time there’s surfing and stand-up paddling in an Olympic event, and I was good, and I’m happy with my result. It means all my hard work and goals are being achieved,” she said.

That hard work includes a rigorous schedule. An average day might mean getting up very early in the morning to paddle or take a run before school, then going to classes, and afterwards a physical workout either at Tamarindo Fitness Center or a pool in the town where she lives. Of course, after dinner there’s studying.

“Surf is a beautiful sport, but with SUP you don’t have to fight for waves,” Salustri said. “If you get first in a race it’s because you crossed the finish line first and not because someone judged your wave riding. I like doing this because I’m really relaxed in nature. I love competing and I like winning.”

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SURFING COSTA RICA

AUGUST ODYSSEYS

by Robert August

S

urf Expo has always been one of my favorite events of the year, to meet people and check out the newest products in the surf industry. Everyone is either a buyer or a seller, and you make an appointment to place your orders for each brand.

So there we were at the 1990 Surf Expo in Orlando, Florida, showing all our products and doing our thing.

Along came this larger gentleman who approached us, said hello and started talking with a major Southern drawl. He said, "I know I don't have an appointment, but I know who you are.

I've seen that ‘Endless Summer’ thing. I don’t surf, obviously, but I know what it's about."

Our visitor, whose name we learned was Russell, explained that he was a major developer and builder of schools and hospitals in Florida and Texas.

He continued talking to us about the vacation he had taken recently with his wife to Central America, and a beautiful town they stumbled upon in Costa Rica named Tamarindo. He knew some fishermen from Florida who had taken their boat to explore Costa Rica’s Pacific coast via the Panama Canal. Upon reaching Tamarindo, these fishermen had been so awestruck by the natural harbor that they decided to give the boat charter business a shot for a few years.

Unfortunately, it proved difficult to attract clients to Tamarindo because of poor road conditions and the small size of San José’s airport.

However, Russell continued,

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these fisherman had also been very impressed by the world-class waves they encountered while traveling all along the coastline. So his reason for starting the Surf Expo conversation was to propose, "Why don't y'all come down here and do some filming and let everyone know about the waves and culture and what Costa Rica's all about?"

“No kidding,” we raved, “this place is amazing!”

I responded, "Well, Russ, that involves a lot of money. If I bring along eight or 10 surfers and a film crew, who need to eat and find a place to stay, that could be a big waste if we don't find anything."

To which Russell responded in his Southern drawl, "Well, I’m gonna tell ya, we got great waves, good fishing, cold beer and a lot of —” (and here he used a crude word for sexually available women). All my Surf Expo companions replied, “WHAT?!” I thought to myself, “My God, I think he's got it covered!” So we told our new friend we would see him later, exchanged contact information,

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and that was it.

Meanwhile, Russell went back to Costa Rica and talked to the department of tourism, explaining who we were and what we could do for the sport of surfing in Costa Rica. I guess he pitched the idea pretty well because a few weeks after the Surf Expo, he called me in California and said the tourism department agreed to fly 12 of us down to Costa Rica, all expenses paid! Russell explained that he had some cabins on the beach (current Selina Hostel location) where we could stay. His fisherman buddies would show us around and drop us off where the waves are. So we agreed. Why not?

To make a long story short, we came down and the waves were incredible as we had been promised. We had a great time overall going to the fiestas and watching the bull riding. “No kidding,” we raved, “this place is amazing!”

This was about the same time when the plans for filming “The Endless Summer 2” were being laid out. When I mentioned to the producers what a unique experience we had just enjoyed in Costa Rica, they really latched onto the idea of starting the movie in Tamarindo.

Luckily enough, I was invited to be the mentor to Robert “Wingnut” Weaver and Pat O'Connell for this movie. If you've seen it, you can tell what a great time we had immersing ourselves in the Costa Rican culture. To this day, I truly believe it was Russell who helped put Tamarindo on the map as one of Central America's best surf towns.

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 41

COMPETITION RESULTS

SURFING COSTA RICA Copa Condominio Arenas

S a n t a Te r e s a ( A p r i l 1 4 a n d 1 5 ) T h e o c e a n d e f i n i t e l y p r ov i d e d t h e p e r f e c t p l ay i n g f i e l d f o r t h i s ye a r ’ s C o p a C o n d o m i n i o A r e n a s s u r f c o m p e t i t i o n .

T h e c o n d i t i o n s c o u l d n’ t h ave b e e n b e t t e r. T h e s o u t h swell direction and offshore winds inspired the sea to p r o d u c e p i c t u r e s q u e ove r h e a d w ave s f o r s o m e o f t h e b e s t a n d u p - a n d - c o m i n g s u r f e r s i n t h e c o u n t r y. T h e r e i s s o m e s e r i o u s s u r f t a l e n t i n C o s t a R i c a , w h i c h m a ke s t h e s e c o m p e t i t i o n s s o exc i t i n g t o w a t c h .

Final Results: Open - Men To m a s K i n g ( Ta m a r i n d o) A n t h o ny F i l l i n g i m ( S a n t a Te re s a) No e Ma r McG o n a g l e ( Pavo n e s) Jo s é Ló p e z ( Ja có) O p e n - Wo m e n Ru b i a n a Bro w n e l l ( Ave l l a n a s) Zu l ay Ma r t í n e z ( Ta m a r i n d o) Eva Wo o d l a n d S o l a n o ( Fl o r i d a) Le i l a n i McG o n a g l e ( Pavo n e s) Junior - Men Ke n n e t h Pe ra l t a ( Ja có) S e b a s t i á n Mo ra ( S a n t a Te re s a) Ma l a k a i Ma r t í n e z ( Ta m a r i n d o) A a ro n R a m i re z ( Ja co) J u n i o r Wo m e n Eva Wo o d l a n d S o l a n o ( Fl o r i d a) Ru b i a n a Bro w n e l l ( Ave l l a n a s) Va l e r i a Oj e d a ( Ja có) Pa u l i n a Su m m e r s ( Pu e r t o V i e j o)

May, 7 3 Quarter

B oy s Ke n n e t h Pe ra l t a ( Ja có) De a n Va n d e w a l l e ( Ta m a r i n d o) A a ro n R a m i re z ( Ja co) Da r s h a n A n t e q u e ra ( Ja co)

May, 15 New Moon

Girls Ru b i a n a Bro w n e l l ( Ave l l a n a s) C a n d e l a r i a Re s a n o ( Ni c a ra g u a) Va l e r i a Oj e d a ( Ja có) Pa u l i n a Su m m e r s ( Pu e r t o V i e j o) Grommets Le o n a rd o A p re d a ( Ja co) A xe l C a s t ro ( L i m ó n) K a i G a l é ( Pa n a m á) To s h Ta l b ot

May, 21 1st Quarter

M i n i G r o m m e t - b oy s Le o n a rd o A p re d a ( Ja co) Te o G a l é ( Pa n a m á) Et h a n Ho l l a n d e r ( Do m i n i c a l ) C a n d e l a r i a Re s a n o ( Ni c a ra g u a) Mini Grommet - girls C a n d e l a r i a Re s a n o ( Ni c a ra g u a) R a c h e l A g ü e ro ( Ja co) Ya n Ha re l l ( S a n t a Te re s a) Má x i m a Re s a n o ( Ni c a ra g u a)

May, 29 Full Moon

Photos courtesy of

SUNRISE MAY 1, 2018 MAY 31, 2018

5:22 AM 5:17 AM

SUNSET MAY 1, 2018 MAY 31, 2018 Tomas King getting covered and catching air on his way to winning the Men's Open

42 | Read. like. share. | online

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5:50 PM 5:57 PM

TIDE CHART

MAY 1 - MAY 31, 2018

DAY

HIGH TIDES

LOW TIDES

HIGH TIDES

LOW TIDES

HIGH TIDES

1 Tues

3:38 AM 8.87 '

9:39 AM 0.04 '

3:53 PM 9.44 '

10:06 PM -0.39 '

2 Wed

4:20 AM 8.77 '

10:17 AM 0.22 '

4:33 PM 9.23 '

10:44 PM -0.21 '

3 Thurs

5:00 AM 8.54 '

10:57 AM 0.53 '

5:11 PM 8.89 '

11:24 PM 0.08 '

4 Fri

5:40 AM 8.23 '

11:37 AM 0.91 '

5:51 PM 8.45 '

5 Sat

12:04 AM 0.47 '

6:24 AM 7.86 '

12:19 PM 1.34 '

6:33 PM 7.97 '

6 Sun

12:46 AM 0.89 '

7:10 AM 7.49 '

1:03 PM 1.76 '

7:21 PM 7.50 '

7 Mon

1:32 AM 1.31 '

8:00 AM 7.18 '

1:55 PM 2.10 '

8:13 PM 7.09 '

8 Tues

2:22 AM 1.65 '

8:54 AM 7.01 '

2:53 PM 2.29 '

9:11 PM 6.84 '

9 Wed

3:20 AM 1.86 '

9:54 AM C 7.02 '

3:55 PM 2.26 '

10:15 PM 6.80 '

10 Thurs

4:18 AM 1.88 '

10:50 AM 7.25 '

4:57 PM 2.00 '

11:13 PM 6.98 '

11 Fri

5:14 AM 1.71 '

11:42 AM 7.64 '

5:53 PM 1.54 '

SURF

12 Sat

12:07 AM 7.33 '

6:06 AM 1.38 '

12:30 PM 8.16 '

6:41 PM 0.98 '

13 Sun

12:57 AM 7.77 '

6:52 AM 0.97 '

1:14 PM 8.72 '

7:27 PM 0.38 '

14 Mon

1:41 AM 8.25 '

7:38 AM 0.53 '

1:58 PM 9.26 '

8:11 PM -0.18 '

15 Tues

2:25 AM 8.70 '

8:22 AM 0.13 '

2:40 PM 9.70 '

8:55 PM -0.62 '

16 Wed

3:11 AM 9.06 '

9:08 AM -0.17 '

3:26 PM 9.98 '

9:39 PM -0.90 '

17 Thurs

3:55 AM 9.29 '

9:54 AM -0.31 '

4:10 PM 10.07 ' 10:25 PM -0.98 '

18 Fri

4:43 AM 9.37 '

10:42 AM -0.28 '

4:58 PM 9.94 '

19 Sat

5:31 AM 9.29 '

11:32 AM -0.07 '

5:50 PM 9.61 '

20 Sun

12:03 AM -0.55 '

6:25 AM 9.08 '

12:26 PM 0.26 '

6:44 PM 9.14 '

21 Mon

12:57 AM -0.13 '

7:21 AM 8.81 '

1:26 PM 0.65 '

7:44 PM 8.62 '

22 Tues

1:57 AM 0.33 '

8:23 AM 8.57 '

2:32 PM 0.98 '

8:50 PM 8.18 '

23 Wed

2:59 AM 0.71 '

9:29 AM 8.45 '

3:42 PM 1.15 '

9:58 PM 7.91 '

24 Thurs

4:07 AM 0.96 '

10:35 AM 8.47 '

4:50 PM 1.12 '

11:04 PM 7.85 '

25 Fri

5:11 AM 1.03 '

11:35 AM 8.61 '

5:54 PM 0.92 '

EAT

11:13 PM -0.85 '

26 Sat

12:06 AM 7.95 '

6:09 AM 0.99 '

12:31 PM 8.82 '

6:50 PM 0.67 '

27 Sun

1:02 AM 8.12 '

7:03 AM 0.90 '

1:21 PM 9.00 '

7:40 PM 0.42 '

28 Mon

1:50 AM 8.30 '

7:49 AM 0.83 '

2:05 PM 9.13 '

8:24 PM 0.24 '

29 Tues

2:36 AM 8.44 '

8:33 AM 0.79 '

2:47 PM 9.19 '

9:04 PM 0.13 '

30 Wed

3:18 AM 8.51 '

9:15 AM 0.81 '

3:27 PM 9.15 '

9:44 PM 0.10 '

31 Thurs

3:58 AM 8.52 '

9:53 AM 0.90 '

4:07 PM 9.02 '

10:22 PM 0.17 '

STRETCH SLEEP REPEAT

We have you covered.

#gogrande

www.frijoleslocos.com

www.ripjackinn.com HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 43

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT Master of traditional quijongo instrument is one of a dying breed

by Karl Kahler

SPOTLIGHT

ISIDORO GUADAMUZ I

sidoro Guadamuz de la O is one of the two last guardians of a knowledge that will probably die with them: how to build and play an exotic Guanacastecan musical instrument called the quijongo.

It looks like a large bow, as in bow and arrow, with a round gourd, or calabash, called a jícaro attached to the middle. The string of the bow is made of wire from pickup truck tires, and it’s struck with a stick at different places to produce higher

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or lower notes. The other hand is used to cover and uncover the hollow gourd, creating an effect that seems to bend and stretch the notes, making a “wa-oo, wa-oo” sound.

Guadamuz, 83, is a native of Santa Cruz of indigenous heritage and a lifelong musician and music teacher. In 2014, he was honored with the Popular Cultural Tradition Prize for his contributions to keeping Guanacastecan music alive. He

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You start with a tree branch over 2 meters long, and you skin it and bend it into the shape of a bow.

sat down with the Howler at his home in Santa Cruz to tell us his story, introduce us to the quijongo and show us how to play it.

An anthropologist named Adriana Mendez, who has written a short biography of Guadamuz and has researched the story of the quijongo, said in a telephone interview that it originated in Africa and came to the Americas with slaves brought by the Spanish centuries ago.

But Guadamuz staunchly disputes this, saying it originated with the Chorotega indigenous group right here in Guanacaste.

“Look, were the Africans as cultured as people in America?” he asked. “The Chorotega were the ones who developed the quijongo, they were the ones who used bows and arrows, because the Africans used spears, or sharp axes. … And it wasn’t in Peru, Colombia or Mexico, it was from here, the Chorotega, where the bow and arrow were developed.”

Guadamuz says he remembers being 5 years old and walking for five hours with his father from Santa Cruz to Nicoya to watch musicians play marimbas and quijongos.

When he was in the 4th or 5th grade, a man from Matapalo came to his school in Santa Cruz to introduce the children to this instrument.

“And I said, ‘Sir, why don’t you explain to me how you make this instrument?’”

Guadamuz recalled. “And he said, ‘Ay, muchacho, out of 300 or 500 students I’ve had, you’re the only one who’s asked me that, so how am I not going to tell you?’”

You start with a tree branch over 2 meters long (Guadamuz finally discovered that a guácimo branch works best), and you skin it and bend it into the shape of a bow. You add the cord — which was initially made from vines, but Guadamuz discovered that tire wire made a much better sound.

“The cord I use now is wire from pickup truck tires,” he said. “Not just any wire will work. It has to be a No. 15. No. 14 is not going to sound right, or No. 16 either.”

You have to search for the perfect gourd from the jícaro, or calabash tree, and clean it out and attach it to the middle, with a handkerchief tied around its base. Then you whittle a stick to hit the cord with.

Finally, there’s a hollow

resonance box, now made of plywood, on which the base of the instrument rests to amplify the sound. Some quijongos also have toe grips to hold the base of the bow steady against the resonance box with one bare foot.

By the age of 13, Guadamuz was building his own quijongos, but he said they sounded terrible: “Pling, pling, pling.” But he persisted, and by the time he was 15, he had finally built one that sounded right. He would continue to innovate and perfect the design for much of his life.

Meanwhile, he was an active member of the Municipal Band of Santa Cruz, playing baritone, trumpet, tenor sax, trombone and bass. He also built and played his own marimbas. After he graduated from school, he became a music teacher.

In his long career, he has played at Costa Rica’s National Theater, the Melico Salazar Theater, the Legislative Assembly and the Casa Presidencial, as well as in Nicaragua and Colombia.

Other than Don Isidoro, there is only one other person still alive in Costa Rica who knows how to build and play the quijongo, a distant relative named Eulalio Guadamuz who lives in Bagaces. Isidoro fears that when they die, this art form will die with them.

“Of course this is going to be lost,” he said. “And what’s most responsible is the Ministry of Education and the Ministry of Culture, they didn’t bring this to the attention of music teachers. I taught a lot of people to make and play the quijongo, but since they were kids they were afraid of cutting themselves or hurting themselves, so their parents told them to watch me when I made them.

“But I’m always an authentic guanacasteco, and I believe in Guanacastecan culture. I don’t make a quijongo with a plane and a saw — I use an axe and a machete.”

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Food & Drink Specials

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Happy Hours

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COCONUTZ Daily happy hour until 7pm Karaoke night, 7:30pm Beer bucket $14

MARINER INN Happy hour, 4-6pm Daily special: 1/2 price wine when paired with ceviche

ZI LOUNGE Daily happy hour, 11am-7pm DJ, 9:30pm-2:30am

CRAZY MONKEY Happy hour, 4-6pm $4 margaritas & daiquiris

MARINER INN Happy hour, 4-6pm Daily special: Margaritas and tacos—50% off tacos with margarita purchase

LANGOSTA BEACH CLUB

LUCY'S

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Taco Tuesday - c500 tacos Happy hour, 4-6pm LANGOSTA BEACH CLUB Club day pass, happy hour, 4-6pm Live music, 7-9pm CRAZY MONKEY Happy hour, 4-6pm $4 margaritas & daiquiris

TAMARINDO/LANGOSTA

Langosta Beach Club Beach Club, Restaurants and Bar All you need in one spot: restaurants, bar, beach access with ocean activities, spa and fitness center. The perfect place for a perfect day. Restaurants always open to the public, facilities require a day pass.

Happy hour, 4-6pm LUCY'S Happy hour, 4-6pm Daily happy hour, 11am-7pm Live music, 6:30-9pm DJ, 9:30pm-2:30am COCONUTZ Daily happy hour until 7pm Live music, Will Matthews

Karaoke

T

HURSDAYS

ZI LOUNGE Daily happy hour, 11am-7pm Live music, 6:30-9pm Ladies’ night, 9:30-11pm COCONUTZ Daily happy hour until 7pm Vodka lemonade specials LUCY'S Happy hour, 4-6pm 5/17, Trivia Night, 7pm MARINER INN Happy hour, 4-6pm Daily special: Loco Thursday, 10% off all food and beverages CRAZY MONKEY Happy hour, 4-6pm $4 margaritas & daiquiris LANGOSTA BEACH CLUB Sunset music, 5-7pm Happy hour, 4-6pm

House whiskey specials, 6:30pm

TAMARINDO

BRASILITO

CRAZY MONKEY RESTOBAR Bar, Restaurant & Night Club

Lucy's Retired Surfers Bar & Restaurant

Boasting spectacular ocean views, great pizza, a huge pool, waterfall and a swimup bar. Great for groups and birthdays!

Beachfront restaurant and bar originally from New Orleans and famous for our frozen drinks and coastal fusion dishes Main corner, Brasilito Mon-Fri, 11am-midnight Sat-Sun, 10am-midnight 8688-0651 costarica@lucysretiredsurfers.com

Inside the Best Western Tamarindo Vista Villas Daily, 7am-2am 2653-0114 ayd@tamarindovistavillas.com CrazyMonkeyBarTamarindo

Beachfront, 400m from Pacific Park Daily, 9am-10pm 2653-1127 / 8372-7244 info@langostabeachclub.com langostabeachclub.com Daily: Happy hour, 4-6pm, Daily: Happy hour, 4-6pm, 50% off selection

$4 margaritas and daiquiris

Day pass for all facilities 9am-6pm Fri: Our famous ladies’ night, live salsa Tue: Live music, 7-9pm music and DJ

free drinks at 9pm Thu: Sunset music, 5-7pm Sat: All you can eat pizza and salad Fri: Live music, 7-9pm

$10+tax per person, 5-9pm Sun: Live DJ, 2pm-sunset Sun: Afternoon pool party, noon-6pm Activities: Pool, spa, beach, kayak, surf, 46paddleboard | Read. like. share. | online howlermag.com

Daily: Happy hour 4-6pm Tue: Taco Tuesday, c500 tacos all day, 1/2 off Margs May Events: 5/5 - Cinco de Drinko - All-day fiesta with live music and specials 5/13 - Mother's Day Brunch 10am-2pm 5/17 - Trivia Night with Abriendo Mentes, 7pm 5/19 - Fiesta del Sol Beach Party & Fundraiser 11-5 5/26 - Salsa Saturday - $10 dance lesson & margarita, 7pm

CALENDAR F

A weekly glance for the Month

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WIL-MART

Jam Session, 9pm-late LANGOSTA BEACH CLUB Live music, 7-9, happy hour, 4-6 MARINER INN Happy hour, 4-6pm Daily special: Wings & brews, a free beer with your order of wings CRAZY MONKEY Happy hour, 4-6pm $4 margaritas & daiquiris Ladies’ night, live salsa music DJ, free drinks at 9pm LUCY'S Happy hour, 4-6pm COCONUTZ Daily happy hour until 7pm Live music, bucket of 6 beers, $14 ZI LOUNGE Daily happy hour, 11am-7pm Live music, Latin Trio, 6:30-9pm

S

ATURDAYS

ZI LOUNGE Daily happy hour, 11am-7pm Live music, Charly Lopez, 6:30-9 COCONUTZ Daily happy hour until 7pm Live music, Flor de Caña and chiliguaro special CRAZY MONKEY All you can eat pizza & salad $10+ tax per person, 5-9pm MARINER INN Happy hour, 4-6pm Daily special: Sangria Saturday 4 sangrias for the price of 3 LANGOSTA BEACH CLUB Happy hour, 4-6pm LUCY'S Happy hour, 4-6pm 5/5, Cinco de Drinko-All-day fiesta with live music and specials 5/19 Fiesta del Sol Beach Party & Fundraiser 11am-5pm 5/26 Salsa Saturday - $10 dance lesson & margarita 7pm

FLAMINGO

MARINER INN Hotel, Bar & Restaurant Across the bridge in Flamingo Tue-Sun 4pm-10pm, closed Mon 2654-4156 themarinerinn@gmail.com marinerinn.com themarinerinn Daily: Tue:

Wed:

Happy hour 4-6pm Margs & Tacos 50% off tacos with margarita 1/2 priced wine when paired with ceviche Thu: Loco Thursday - 10% off food and beverages Fri: Wings & Brews - get a free beer with your order of wings Sat: Sangria Sat - 4 sangrias for the price of 3 Sun: $20 chef’s special & glass of wine

S

UNDAYS

CRAZY MONKEY Afternoon pool party, noon-6 MARINER INN Happy hour, 4-6pm Daily special: $20 chef’s special with a glass of wine LANGOSTA BEACH CLUB Live DJ 2-sunset, happy hour 4-6 LUCY'S Happy hour, 4-6pm 5/13 - Mother's Day Brunch 10am-2pm COCONUTZ Daily happy hour until 7pm Sports all day Daily happy hour, 11am-7pm

COCONUTZ Restaurant & Bar The iconic bar of Coco Beach. Always cold beer, entertainment, sports and good food.

Avenida Central, across from El Coco Casino Mon-Sat, 2pm till late Sun, 11am till late 2670-1982 pete@coconutzbar.com coconutzbar.com Daily: Happy hour until 7pm; all TV Sports Mon: Margarita & tequila specials Tue: Karaoke, 7:30, bucket of 6 beers, $14 Wed: Live music with Will Matthews,

6:30pm, house whiskey specials Thu: Vodka lemonade specials Fri: Live music, bucket of 6 beers, $14 Sat: Live music, Flor de Caña and chiliguaro specials Sun: Sports, all day

Me at

Lucy’s!

MAIN CORNER, BRASILITO

ZI LOUNGE

PLAYAS DEL COCO

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PLAYAS DEL COCO

ZI LOUNGE Restaurant and Sports Bar Food, drink, entertainment and the longest happy hour in town.

Avenida Central, 200m from beach Daily, 11am-2:30am 2670-1978 info@zilounge.com Zi.Lounge Daily: Happy hour, 11am-7pm

DJ, 9:30pm-2:30am Tue: DJ, 9:30pm-2:30am Wed: Live music, 6:30-9pm Thu: Live music, 6:30-9pm

Ladies’ night, 9:30-11pm Fri: Live music, 6:30-9pm Sat: Live music, 6:30-9pm

E L L I V A D I V A R U P

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

DOSLOCOS

Journey to the Promised Land Part 2

W

here this Tico Time Zone story began and left you good readers in last month’s Howler, my long-awaited journey to Puravidaville was finally underway. I had just landed in Costa Rica for the first time, along with three adventurous buddies from Rhode Island.

It was September 1993, and a bit rainy, to say the least. After making our way through customs and immigration, we haggled for a $100 ride from the airport to Jacó in a minibus. The four of us Rhody rookies — only one of whom spoke broken Spanish — figured we were all set and could just sit back, take it easy and enjoy the ride.

Not so fast, my friends! We had entered the Tico Time Zone, where things are not as we may be accustomed to, nor does logic rule the day.

Soon after leaving San José, we managed to convey to the bus driver a request to stop for a few “Rhode sodas” to quench our thirst.

It was during this quick pit stop that we figured out the 132 exchange rate. Yes, that’s right: 13,200 colones were worth $100. We were stoked at how far a dollar could go!

Back on the highway, our orientation to Costa Rican road conditions proceeded in high gear. We quickly learned that “treacherous” is the default mode for any and all areas in the line of travel. We could barely take sips of our beverages as the driver began to bob and weave his way around buses, trucks and pedestrians who happened to be in the wrong place at the wrong time.

So much for sitting back and enjoying the

48 | Read. like. share. | online

ride. As we each started getting that not-socomfy feeling, chatter broke out among us about how to slow this guy down. No desire to surf was worth our utter terror during this first experience as captive passengers of a Costa Rican driver!

We had to do something to slow down this maniac behind the wheel.

Just when it seemed OK to breathe calmly, as our driver downshifted behind two gas tankers, he decided to go for it instead. To our horror, he started passing a fully loaded gas tanker up a hill and in the breakdown lane! Paralysis stifled our screams, and it became a flashback of our emergency lightning storm landing at San José airport merely a few hours earlier. It was time to hold on tight and start praying again.

The sudden off-ramp turn our driver took at an unmarked exit to Jacó was when the first wave of relief passed over us in Costa Rica. Proceeding now on a two-lane road presumably meant he would have to slow down and drive “normally.” That lasted about 10 minutes, until we hit the spiral dead road to Orotina. It’s a switchback nightmare, where taxi drivers can see the turns ahead and actually pass other cars on the curves.

Yes, on the curves! (Years later, having gone native, I demonstrated this same maneuver to

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TTZ (T

ico Time Zone)

by Johnny Lahoud unsuspecting tourists who trusted me as their driver on an airport run.)

To kick up our anxiety levels a notch, it started to rain and all we could smell was brake fluid. Despite not knowing for sure whether ours was the source vehicle, it was very unnerving. We had to do something to slow down this maniac behind the wheel, so we called for a bathroom time-out. He pulled over at a cool little overlook and we formed a huddle to come up with a strategy. Other than bribing our driver, which we were not convinced would work, none of us could think of a solution.

That was when the good Lord finally stepped in. This time, the act of God was in our favor. Another driver pulled up and informed us that there had been a derrumbe (landslide), leaving only one lane open for navigating the remaining twists and turns ahead of us. It was the ultimate reprieve. After eking our way down this death road, we hit the beach road. Thankfully, it was also in terrible shape, with craters massive enough to force even our own Mario Andretti to a crawl.

An hour or so later, we arrived unscathed at Jacó, our promised land. We unpacked at Rancho Colinas, said goodbye to “Mario” and headed to the beach for a quick sunset surf. Paddling out to our beach break debut in Puravidaville, we already knew that all the turbulence and turmoil of getting there was worth it.

A quarter-century later, the adventure I became hooked on that first day in the TTZ continues. The twists and turns that brought me here have endured and endeared me all the more.

ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT

GET OUT, DO SOMETHING! FESTIVAL SEASON WRAPPING UP Just a few more left till next season

WINE WORLD FESTIVAL COSTA RICA FOR ALL WINE LOVERS

May 2-5 : La Cruz, Guanacaste May 11-13: Hatillo, Santa Cruz, Guanacaste May 17-20: Redondel El caribeño, Huacas, Guanacaste

Wine, food and live music. Do you really need to know more?

Where: Reserva Conchal Beach Club

HAPPENINGS

FIESTA FIESTA FIESTA

When: May 19, noon to midnight Cost: c21.500 wwfcr More info:

Photos: Abi Acuña, DigitalPhoto CR

SAN JOSÉ NATIONAL THEATER Guided Tours

Tue - Sun, 9-5 c1 500 admission Foreign: $10 Kids under 12 free

May Billboard National Theater Tour May 12-13, 9am-5pm Tales from My Backpack - Ana Coralia Fernández May 15, 12:10-1pm III Season Concert - National Symphony Orchestra Fri., May 18, 8pm Sun., May 20, 10:30am Musical Appetizer May 19, 4:30pm Mother Earth - Flamenco dance show May 22, 12:10-1pm

Where: San José, Ave. 2 between Calle 3 and Calle 5 Prices: Range from free to c22,000 Contact: 2010-1100, website: www.teatronacional.go.cr

Concert: - Adrian Goizueta May 25, 8pm CD Release - Joaquín Iglesias May 26, 8pm Interwoven by Amarillo Cian and Magenta May 29, 12:10-1pm Short pieces by Samuel Beckett May 17-Jun 10 Thu, Fri, and Sat, 8pm, Sun, 5pm

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 49

LIFESTYLE

PRINCES OF DARKNESS BEHIND THE IMAGE

by Gregory Basco

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The scene

H

elping to develop many popular photo attractions in Costa Rica has been a rewarding aspect of running the company Foto Verde Tours.

This case depicts a great payoff from a little bit of luck in setting up a hummingbird photography area at one of our favorite lodges. We provided guidance in putting out feeders just inside its private rainforest reserve and designed a simple, open pavilion structure. Everything seemed perfect, but there was one problem — the hummingbirds never responded very well to the feeders!

But photography sometimes imitates life: When a door closes, a window opens.

That held true for our failed hummingbird photography area, where I was leading a workshop about five years ago. My good friend Diego, the lodge employee who

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takes care of the feeders, mentioned that the feeders would be full in the evening but always empty in the morning. I knew right away from personal experience what that meant: nectar-feeding bats were the lodge’s thiefs in the night. I was able to verify this on the same occasion with a simple photography setup after dark, and my workshop clients loved it. Since then, I have refined my technique for a photo shoot of bats in this setting as follows.

The technical part

Bats are challenging to photograph for two reasons: they are very fast and very active when it is pitch dark. That these bats are accustomed to the hummingbird feeders, however, gives me a big advantage.

Being able to predict exactly where they are going to arrive allows me to use a camera trap.

What’s that, you ask? It’s a small device, connected to a camera or flash via a special cable, that emits an infrared beam. When anything — be it a leaf, a person, a jaguar, or a bat — breaks that beam, the camera fires and takes a picture.

Since bats are so fast, I actually leave the camera shutter open in total darkness and connect the camera trap to a flash transmitter. When a bat flies through, the beam is broken, the flash transmitter fires and my camera records this frozen moment. My flashes fire at 1/30,000th of a second! That’s what allows me to get such sharp pictures of fast-flying bats in the dead of night.

Composition and lighting

While the technical challenges of this kind of photography are daunting, the artistic aspects — composition and lighting — are what make any photo stand out. I use five flashes to light my bat scenes. This enables viewers to see the detail in both bat and flower while at the same time maintaining a sense of mystery.

Being in charge of lighting lets me create highlights and shadows where I want them. Instead of evenly lit images, I want my bat photos to look like secretive shots of a mysterious, rarely seen rainforest creature.

Camera settings

I use Canon cameras, Canon zoom lenses (70-300 mm, 100-400 mm), f/11, 3 seconds, ISO 400, camera trap, radio flash transmitters/receivers, tripod, ballhead, various clamps and light stands and accessories.

At the computer

With the lighting so carefully crafted, all these photos needed were some simple tweaks to the highlights and shadows and perhaps slight crops.

Processing took no more than a minute or so using Adobe Lightroom.

The lesson

Shooting wildlife at night is fun and challenging for rainforest photographers, with the use of flash being a crucial skill.

Bats continue visiting the flowers for hours without reacting to the flashes going off. I’ve been doing this for years, and every time I visit there are more bats than before. That said, I keep my photo sessions with them to 45 minutes. My clients and I get plenty of photos, and the bats have the rest of the night to do their thing without a bunch of nosy photographers hanging around.

When a bat flies through, the beam is broken, the flash transmitter fires and my camera records this frozen moment.

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 51

LIFESTYLE

Choose the softest, lightestweight fabric you can find.

FASHIONFLASH

A

re you prepared for the rainy season in Costa Rica? Before we know it, all the dust will blow away and the muddy roads will come back. As we move from hell-hot April into a greener, fresher May, some wardrobe adjustments are needed as well.

Here are some tips for preparing to stay comfortable, stylish and happy during rainy season.

First of all, do you have rain boots? You might want them. I prefer the short boot styles because wet weather here doesn’t necessarily make it any cooler. Staying dry but also cool at the same time is a balancing act. A cheap pair of rain boots can often be found at your nearest hardware store, or look for better options in other stores.

For rain jackets, the same need to fend off moisture and heat simultaneously applies. Choose the softest, lightest-weight fabric you can find.

If not, sweating will find you trapped inside a different kind of rainy season of your own making.

With mosquitoes and purrujas (sand fleas) also coming back with the greenery, we need that kind of protection from our clothing as well.

It’s time to move into long pants, again keeping the materials soft, loose and lightweight. While striving to cover as much bare skin as possible, keep in mind that if the hem length is too long, the caked-on mud stains can be very stubborn to remove.

Umbrella is synonymous with always, when it comes to leaving one in the car and otherwise carrying one with you everywhere. Always be prepared as if it’s the rule, rather than the exception, for rain to start suddenly without warning. Having a sarong or towel handy as well is a good idea too. Even with an umbrella, your feet might get wet and it’s nice to have something to dry off with.

As our surroundings transform from yellowish brown to flourishing jungle greens, you should do the same, moving into vibrant, earthy colors and happy prints. Rainy season may last a few months but seem like an eternity; prepared is the best way to face it.

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Stay Happy in the Rain

by Patricia Sterman

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 53

LIFESTYLE

SPANISH

GREAT MINDS THINK ALIKE

D

by Sylvia Monge

o you ever go blank when someone speaks to you in a foreign language?

This is hardly surprising among newcomers or tourists interacting with locals. But what if you have studied that language — for years even — and no words come to mind when the native speaker stands waiting for your response? Nothing. It can make you question all the effort and progress you’ve made in learning the language up to this alarming “nothing” moment.

What if I told you that the blanking and second-guessing scenarios are both natural and normal … possibly a good sign?

It happens to most of us, and the reason is simple. More than likely we’ve been conditioned to learn through repetition — the act of creating chunks or patterns of new information and reviewing them enough times to stick. This so-called focused mode of learning has traditionally been preferred by most schools, including for language instruction. We learn how to conjugate in various tenses, and how to use some pronouns and smatterings of vocabulary. These focused tasks leave bits and pieces of information free-floating in our language memory bank. But without connections between them, applying what we’ve learned in the real world remains a challenge.

Recall is one of the more powerful tools in your cerebral backpack. The

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diffused mode of learning is the new big thing in education. It involves higher-level thinking skills and the ability to see the big picture.

Recall is one of the more powerful tools in your cerebral backpack.

Two famous innovators, Salvador Dali and Thomas Edison, practiced diffused learning to tap into their inspirational powers. They were known to sit in an armchair with their hands dangling over

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the edge, holding a small object. When they entered sleep, the object would drop and they would awaken in a diffused state.

From there came many of the inventions and masterpieces they left as legacies to the world.

You can tap into your own diffused mind during exercise, meditation, listening to music, or even sleep. Engaging “mindlessly” after focused learning enables your brain to take in everything you have learned and reorganize it into something cohesive and connected.

Interestingly, it’s when we are “leveling up” in our language learning through this synthesization process that we tend to go blank. This blanking leads to the “impostor syndrome” — the “who were you kidding to even attempt something new?” line of questioning and self-doubt.

Instead of sinking you in a high-stress situation, your brain is actually trying to diffuse-think.

If you stop and look, that is what happens when you are dealing with English as well. The mind makes sense of things by making as many connections as it can in a second. When we listen to a foreign language we tend to not trust ourselves, thinking the only path to understanding is in words. If you try the experiment above you may find you will start understanding what people are talking about, without many details. This is the first step in real learning.

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 55

LIFESTYLE

Goji

WELLNESS SUPERFOODS

Berry of Happiness and Health

by Valeria Gonzalez

G

oji berries have been an integral part of traditional Chinese medicine for thousands of years, and more recently a common sight on supermarket shelves, with good reason. Native to the temperate and subtropical regions of China, Mongolia and the Tibetan Himalayas, raw goji berries are about the size of your pinkie fingertip, if not smaller. They are similar in taste to raisins but more tart, with a natural tinge of sweetness and slight herb-like aftertaste. Their tiny seeds, containing fiber, add a nice texture to your meals.

These shrivelled red berries are alleged to boost the immune system and brain activity, while also protecting against heart disease and cancer, and improving life expectancy. Scientific research has yet to support such claims, but there’s no denying that goji berries are rich in plant-based antioxidants and compounds. They contain a lot of vitamins A, C, and B2, along with iron, selenium and polysaccharides. As a plus, goji berries are low in calories,

fat-free and packed with fiber to help with weight management and regularity.

Look for dried goji berries whole or ground in powders and drinks, available at health food stores and markets. They can be eaten raw or cooked, on their own or as a tasty addition to tea, soup or hot cereal.

The dried berries make a great instant snack or can be soaked in hot water before munching. Enjoy goji berries in trail mixes, smoothies or as a garnish on cereals, salads or yogurts. They can be baked, cooked, steamed and processed in any way you like.

Goji berries are low in calories, fat-free and packed with fiber.

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No-Bake Goji Berry Granola Protein Bars

Talk about a nutritious power bar — go for goji! These berry granola protein bars are packed with healthy ingredients and make a wonderful gluten-free snack. They can satisfy that mid-morning craving and boost your energy before or after a workout.

This recipe is flexible and versatile for adding your own favorite nuts, seeds or dried fruits.

Ingredients • • • • • • • • •

1 cup rolled or quick oats (gluten-free) ½ cup cashew pieces, chopped ½ cup almonds, chopped 1 cup raw sunflower seeds 2 tbsp. protein powder ¼ cup ground flax seed ⅔ cup peanut or almond butter (organic) ½ to ⅔ cup agave nectar ⅛ teaspoon sea salt (adjust based on which nut butter you use) • ½ cup goji berries • 1 tbsp. cacao nibs (optional)

Method of Preparation

• Combine oats, cashew pieces, chopped almonds, sunflower seeds, protein powder and flax seeds in a large bowl.

• Whisk together nut butter, agave and sea salt. Pour into oat mixture and mix well, until everything is sticky and combined.

If it’s too dry, add a bit more agave. Add the goji berries and mix well.

• Press mixture into a shallow 8-inch baking dish lined with parchment paper or plastic wrap. Cover with more parchment paper or plastic wrap, press well into the dish, and refrigerate for 4 hours.

• Cut into bar shapes and keep refrigerated. Makes 10–15 bars.

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Water Purification Done Right • Water Filtration • Sanitation • Plumbing • Troubleshooting (506) 2670-0853 info@cocotapwater.net

safe, pure, delicious water

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 57

COMMUNITY

Carlos Alvarado, Costa Rica's new president.

PRESIDENTIAL ELECTION: THE PEOPLE HAVE SPOKEN COMMUNITY FEATURE

by Mariana Castilli

C

osta Rica was the spotlight of international news for its presidential election on Easter Sunday, April 1, 2018. For the first time ever, voting was scheduled for the day when Catholics would be celebrating Jesus’ resurrection, the same day tens of thousands of Ticos would normally be returning home from Holy Week holidays. The timing meant many of those wanting to vote had to end their vacation a day early.

A two-party scheme of government — National Liberation and SocialChristian Unity Party — had alternately ruled the country for 28 years starting in 1986. Then in 2014, Luis Guillermo Solís (the current president) was elected from the Citizen Action Party (PAC), which was becoming stronger since its emergence in 2002. Ticos' high expectations for this progressive government weren’t quite fulfilled, as they witnessed a good share of corruption (such as the cement scandal), very high unemployment and many unfinished infrastructure projects. PAC supporters maintained that the party needed more than four years to truly effect change, while others were not so optimistic.

It's fair to say that Costa Ricans are tired of living in a very expensive country with outdated public services, third-world roads and increasing violence. Our outrage is growing daily

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as we crave efficiency and transparency.

The first round of polls saw 13 parties with diverse views on how to achieve this. Some Ticos were very sure about their party of choice but a lot were confused by all the possibilities. At the end of the first round we had no president yet, because no candidate achieved the required 40 percent of voter support. This necessitated a

PAC supporters maintained that the party needed more than four years to truly effect change, while others were not so optimistic. second round of polls, for only the third time in Costa Rican history.

The two presidential candidates were National Restoration Party leader Fabricio Alvarado, with 25 percent of votes, and the PAC’s Carlos Alvarado, with 22 percent support. Other than their last name, they shared absolutely nothing in common. Carlos was the most popular choice among better educated urban voters, and Fabricio had stronger support in relatively traditional rural areas.

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The outcome was far from obvious, considering that 34.34 percent of Ticos didn't vote. That meant more abstained from the polls than supported either candidate. So facing a second round and two very different paths, Costa Ricans had a very important decision to make.

On one hand Fabricio’s agenda appealed to the more religious and conservative citizens opposed to the country opening its doors to gay marriage and legal abortion. On the other hand, Carlos represented a generation wanting to fight for a secular state inclusive of all minorities, progressively addressing LGBTI and reproductive rights.

A moral battle was being fought and it inspired the country with a revolutionary spirit. For the first time ever — and against all odds considering the Easter holidays — more Ticos voted in the second round of election votes than they had in the first. Carlos Alvarado won with an impressive 60 percent of the votes, becoming Costa Rica’s youngest president since the Second Republic in 1948. Vice-President Epsy Campbell became the first AfroAmerican woman to assume such a position.

Now great expectations lay upon Carlos Alvarado. We all hope he is going to lead our nation towards progress … or at least pave some roads and leave our human rights alone.

COMMUNITY

Above: Port of Puntarenas, 1920 Left: Aerial shot of Puntarenas, 1940

by José Gerardo Suárez Monge and Karl Kahler

PUNTARENAS

A Brief History

A passion for historical photos

P

CR HISTORY IN PICS

Aerial shot of the tip of Puntarenas, 1980

P

untarenas is Costa Rica’s sixth province and its largest, at 11,266 sq. km. It encompasses most of the Pacific Coast, stretching from the Gulf of Nicoya to Punta Burica, on the border with Panama.

The capital is the city of Puntarenas, which is situated on a spit of land several kilometers long and 400 meters wide, extending into the Gulf of Nicoya.

The province of Puntarenas was inhabited by several pre-Colombian cultures, including the Chorotega, the Huetares, the Quepoa, the Bruncas, the nation of Coctú and the Buricas. The city of Puntarenas, known as “the pearl of the Pacific,” was the country’s primary port for much of its history, and it was declared a “Balneario Nacional,” a nationally recognized seaside port, in 1940.

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Costa Rica’s Pacific coast was first explored by the Spanish under Juan Ponce de León, and later, in 1522, by Gil González Dávila, who traveled the entire coastline from the Golfo Dulce to the Golfo de Nicoya, and penetrated as far inland as Nicoya and Nicaragua.

In 1524, Francisco Hernández de Córdoba founded a Spanish settlement, the village of Bruselas, near the current Esparza, but it was abandoned in 1527. In 1529, Juan de Cavallón y Arboleda arrived in Chomes by the Nicaragua-Nicoya road, and he established the Real de la Ceniza, a Spanish garrison that served as a base for exploring the country as far as the Central Valley. In 1556, the second Spanish church in Costa Rica was built at Chomes.

The name “Punta de Arena” (“Sand

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hotos are provided courtesy of José Gerardo Suárez Monge, author of “San José: 280 Years of History.” Suárez is a professional photographer and graphic designer with a degree in electrical engineering from the Tecnológico in Cartago, but his passion is collecting and analyzing historical photos — he has over 14,000. He has six books for sale, which are available at Librería Lehmann and the University of Costa Rica bookstore, or by calling 7062-3086 or 8794-7679.

Open 7 days

8am-5pm

English Spoken Railroad at Puntarenas port, 1925

Quality Custom Made Furniture

Bruce Scott 506-8379-0168 brucescott.scott@hotmail.com

Puntarenas, 1915

Connie López 8572-1957

Main Road Huacas to Tamarindo 1200 meters Point”) first appeared in 1720. The town was declared a major port of the country in 1814 by the Courts of Cádiz. In 1834 an attempt was made to move the port to Caldera, but six years later Puntarenas was confirmed as the nation’s chief port.

The city of Puntarenas is rich in history, tradition and customs.

Among its most visited spots is the “Paseo de Los Turistas” (“walkway of the tourists”), a walkable street bordering the gulf full of hotels,

restaurants, bars and dance halls.

Puntarenas is known for a snow cone called a Churchill, because of the inventor’s resemblance to the British prime minister. It contains ice, syrup, condensed milk, powdered milk, fruit and other flavorings.

Puntarenas is also known as a jumping-off point to the Nicoya Peninsula because of its ferry service to Paquera and Naranjo.

Puntarenas is also a popular destination for cruise ships.

Puntarenas, 1930

Homes • Properties OOce: (506) 2695-8562

Rene Cel: (506) 8388-3891 Elisabeth Cel: (506) 8833-2631

www.ricorealty.com

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 63

COMMUNITY

BUILDING COSTA RICA

by Jarryd Jackson

BUILT-IN SAFETY BY DESIGN Costa Rica is known N for petty theft and ow that Semana Santa has come and gone, it’s the perfect time to discuss home security systems and ways to protect your home.

Unfortunately, Costa Rica is known for petty theft and home break-ins, as well as insufficient police resources to deal with the problem. Forgetting to lock doors and windows, leaving things of value out in the open, and trusting others a bit too much have taught many newcomers this lesson the hard way. Those of us living here for a while have learned to adapt and take care of our belongings.

In Costa Rica, the onus is definitely on property owners to protect their valuables. That means putting in place as many deterrents as possible. It may be a simple matter of training your dog to bark an alert, or leaving a few lights on at night. Other security measures should be carefully considered for incorporation into your home design from the start.

Security bars placed on windows and doors are among the most common, effective and inexpensive examples.

Typically constructed of smooth rebar material, they can be adapted to any design or style that you wish. Pretty much all security bars are custom welded, so the options are limitless. Keep in mind that the maintenance requirements include periodic repairs and coats of anticorrosive paint every year or two ‌ more often if near the beach. On the downside, security bars detract from the openness

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home break-ins, as well as insufficient police resources to deal with the problem.

of your home and window views.

Electronic security systems are highly recommended if you prefer windows and doors with no gates and bars. Proper planning at the home design stage ensures that all the wiring can

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be embedded behind the walls to avoid unsightly conduits and wires. These security systems utilize motion sensors placed high on walls, and on windows and doors, which activate an alarm when movement is detected and typically send you a warning message or phone call. A keypad near the front door allows you to activate and deactivate the alarm with a password.

Cameras have become a common and useful tool for homeowners seeking a maximum level of security. Several options are available, including systems that transmit video content via WiFi signal. A drawback is that these systems will not work if the WiFi is down or disconnected. Ideally, camera security systems utilize close-circuit television (CCTV) cable technology. All cameras are connected to a mainframe computer system hardwired into the internet signal.

This allows for constant monitoring from inside your home, or remote viewing anywhere when connected to your phone or computer.

Unless you live in a gated community with 24-hour security, take whatever precautions you can to minimize the risk of property theft and damage. Perimeter fences, driveway entrance gates, dogs that bark at intruders, window bars, alarm systems and security cameras — each and every deterrent contributes to a safer home and property.

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 65

COMMUNITY

An Extraordinary Case of Caring PET CARE

By Dr. Gilberth Cavallini

C

aring for sick or injured wildlife is nothing out of the ordinary at our veterinary practice, where rescued animals are brought to us in many common circumstances. Particularly during Costa Rica’s dry season, wild creatures are at higher risk from exposure to predators, humans and domestic animals when scarcity of food and water forces them away from their natural habitats.

At this time of year, for example, our clinic typically treats between 10 and 15 howler monkey patients a month on average, with electrocution from power lines being the cause of many injuries and deaths. But one of our recent cases involving an elderly female howler monkey was anything but typical. Everything about the reasons for this monkey needing medical attention and the manner of seeking and receiving it was truly extraordinary. According to the people who brought her to the clinic, she had been found sitting alone in the middle of the road, apparently far from the vicinity of any monkey companions. She looked scared, but remained calm as they approached and showed no aggressive reaction when they picked her up.

Upon arrival at the clinic, this monkey did not appear ill, only a little dehydrated, and was calm enough for us to perform a physical examination without sedation.

That’s when we discovered our new patient

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was an old lady. Both her eyes were dirty with a coating of yellow material, but that was the extent of any health problem we could detect. We began treatment by cleaning both eyes twice a day and a diet of tropical fruits. (In fact, malnutrition is a common condition in wildlife cases, due

What was really happening in this mysterious case and how could we help?

to the tendency of property developers to substitute ornamental plants in their landscape designs for the native tree species that produce edible leaves, fruits and flowers.) Although our little lady was not interested in eating from the floor of her cage, when we gave her a Gerber-type strained mixture with a syringe, she ate it hungrily and immediately.

So, what was really happening in this

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mysterious case and how could we help?

We made a decision that turned out to be lucky for this monkey, by putting her under anesthesia and looking deeper. My colleague, Dr. Cajal, and I brought in the consulting veterinary ophthalmologist who visits our practice every two months.

Dr. Gamboa agreed to provide a complete eye examination on our geriatric monkey patient for free: fluorescein test, ultrasound and retinography. The old lady was diagnosed with a deep, inoperable cataract causing blindness in her right eye. A longstanding ulcer in her left eye is causing partial blindness but might be responsive to daily treatment.

This story ends with the offer from a volunteer to drive our lady to the Sibu Rescue Center, where she will continue receiving treatment and enjoy the rest of her old age.

How remarkable that a wild animal would emerge from the forest, make her way to the road, and just sit there waiting for two concerned humans to come along and bring her to a place where other specially trained humans could give her the right kind of help for a better quality of life that remains. There must be a superior being taking care of us all! Thanks to the kind of caring people who sometimes get involved when least expected, as well as dedicated volunteers and groups like SalveMonos, I feel we are making a difference.

Costa Rica International Academy’s

TOP 10 THINGS YOU MAY

NOT KNOW ABOUT US!

Allinsurance CR.com 1BROKER 11 INSURERS

Across the street from Automercado, Tamarindo

10

We offer over 15 different after school activities on our 16-acre campus. Activities include swimming, basketball, soccer, karate, STEM, and many more!

9

We are the only U.S. Accredited K-12 school in Guanacaste.

8

Our student body is comprised of 22 nationalities.

7

92% of our parents believe CRIA’s program will help their children reach their long-term goals.

6

We have a House System (similar to Harry Potter) to create a close community within our school.

5

We have a bilingual program for Toddler thru Grade 1 (expanding to Grade 2 in August 2018).

4

Our high school students are required to do 40 hours of community service for graduation.

3

We offer services for Learning Support, English Language Learners, Guidance & College Counseling, and have a FIELD STUDIES Program that includes over 50 field trips per year.

2

90% of our graduates attend university right after high school.

1

We raise an average of $30,000 per year for local non-profit organizations, including Matapalo Public Schools, a Senior Center, Brasilito Park, Surf for Youth, and several more! We also donate over 100 children’s gifts to CEPIA AND relief donations for hurricanes and Mission Trips.

OPEN ENROLLMENT FOR the 2018-19 SCHOOL YEAR!

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SIMPLY SPANISH

COMMUNITY

HOA MEETINGS

by Ivan Granados

Body Parts

LEGAL EASE

There should be an annual general meeting of the HOA to vote on relevant matters for the complex.

E

barbilla — chin cabello or pelo — hair ceja — eyebrow codo — elbow

ach condominium complex in Costa Rica has a set of bylaws known as Covenants, Conditions and Restrictions (CC&Rs), outlining the rules, regulations, dues, rights and obligations of condo owners. The Homeowner’s Association (HOA) consists of the individuals who own condo units registered in their own name or under a Costa Rica corporation.

Unless otherwise indicated in the CC&Rs, there should be an annual general meeting of the HOA to vote on relevant matters for the complex such as annual budget, appointment or renewal of the HOA administrator, monthly HOA fees and special assessments.

In advance of the HOA meeting, within the time period established in the CC&Rs, owners should be notified with a proposed agenda of matters to be discussed and voted on.

For condo units owned under a corporation, the HOA meeting representatives must bring valid identification and legal certification (personería jurídica) confirming their legal capacity and power to vote on behalf of their corporation. The personeríia juríidica must be dated no earlier than 30 days from the HOA meeting date, issued either by the National Registry or by a notary public of Costa Rica with all the legal stamps and seals included.

Homeowners who will not be attending the HOA meeting may appoint

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a person to be present and vote on their behalf with a special power of attorney (POA) or full POA. Consultation with a lawyer is advisable to ensure the POA is properly executed in compliance with Costa Rican law. (For details, see the LegalEase article in the November 2017 issue of Howler.)

Keep in mind that not all the “legal representatives” of a Costa Rica corporation have sufficient capacity and authority to be able to grant a POA in favor of a third party. They may have full POA themselves, but lack the capacity to grant it to another person. This capacity can and must be verified before the National Registry, with the corporation name and ID number.

Condo owners/corporation legal representatives who are outside Costa Rica and not attending the HOA meeting have the option to execute a POA through the corporate books of the Costa Rican corporation that owns the condominium. In this instance, 100 percent of the shareholders of the corporation that owns the condominium must execute a proxy letter (carta-poder) authorizing their attorney or designated person to hold a General Extraordinary Meeting of their corporation to vote on the POA approval. The meeting minutes must be transcribed, signed and legalized by a notary public “protocolización del acta” to execute the POA for the HOA meeting.

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dedo — finger or toe. Oddly, Spanish does not have a separate word for “toe,” except dedo del pie — “finger of the foot.” On the hand, pulgar is a thumb, índice is an index finger, corazón is a middle finger, anular is a ring finger and meñique is a little finger. estómago — stomach frente — forehead hombro — shoulder mejilla — cheek muñeca — wrist muslo — thigh oreja/oído — ear. Oreja is the fleshy external part where you might attach an earring; oído is the internal part you use to hear. pecho — chest (or breast) pestañas — eyelashes rodilla — knee talón — heel tobillo — ankle uña — fingernail or toenail

ACTIVITIES & INFORMATION

COMMUNITY CAR WARS at Conchal

C

by Karl Kahler

ars have been banned from Playa Conchal, but try telling that to cars. On March 21, an administrative court in San José ordered the Municipality of Santa Cruz to close Playa Conchal to vehicle traffic and parking because it was causing environmental damage to the fragile mangroves behind the little beach road.

But the Santa Cruz Muni has rejected this directive and refused to obey it, backed by community sentiment in Brasilito that this initiative is an attempt to limit access to one of Costa Rica’s most beautiful beaches by a private landowner. The beach is adjacent to the Westin Golf Resort & Spa, part of Reserva Conchal, which provides easy access to the beach but is open to guests only.

The mayor of the canton of Santa Cruz, María Rosa López, has suggested that this is an attempt to “privatize” Playa Conchal. Irene Jiménez, a spokeswoman for Reserva Conchal, strongly denied this allegation, saying visitors of all kinds are welcome at Playa Conchal, but their cars are not.

Jiménez says vehicle traffic causes sand compaction that disrupts the natural flow between the ocean and the mangroves, among other problems.

To compensate for the restricted access, Reserva Conchal is building a parking lot in Brasilito with bathrooms and showers, and it will provide a shuttle to take people to Playa Brasilito, after which it’s about a 500-meter walk to Conchal.

For more info, contact Maria Pía Robles at maria. robles@fifco.com or (506) 8813-7751.

OPERATION RICH COAST STRAW HELP US CLEAN UP YOUR BEACH

O

peration Rich Coast was founded in November 2017 to engage communities throughout Costa Rica in eliminating litter from our beaches and reducing the use of environmentally harmful plastics. To date, we have promoted and facilitated over 60 beach cleanups.

Participate in one of these May clean-up crews and follow our schedule updates on Facebook and Instagram.

How you can help:

Join the movement and ignite change by pitching in at our next beach cleanup event!

Where: Tamarindo and Puntarenas When: Sat, May 19, 9am Contact: julie@operationrichcoast.org sandy@operationrichcoast

operationrichcoast

HELP HOMELESS DOGS ALAJUELA

M

ake a donation or buy our products. It’s that easy to help sponsor a homeless dog needing foster care through Reskta2 in Alajuela. We are a non-government organization dedicated to the rescue of dogs in socially disadvantaged circumstances in the province. Without the means of operating a shelter facility, we arrange for rescued dogs to stay at “casas cuna,” temporary homes, until adoption in a permanent home becomes possible. Meanwhile, we cover all the expenses of providing foster care.

We rely entirely on financial donations and the proceeds from selling T-shirts, shopping bags, cups, hats and pet care products, as well as raffles and other fundraising activities.

How you can help:

Buy a product, donate or adopt Contact: Karen Villalobos

Facebook@reskta2

(506) 8938-6269, reskta2@mail.com

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RESTORING THE MACAW POPULATION

COMMUNITY

T

he Ara Project, a Costa Rican nonprofit, is on a mission to restore all of Costa Rica's native parrot species back to their former ranges. Walking around the beautiful forests and amazing landscapes of Costa Rica, it's easy to forget that they are missing some special residents, macaws. They used to fly free over almost 90% of Costa Rica, but now they are only found in small pockets around the country.

How you can help:

Visit our center: We are in Punta Islita, Nicoya Peninsula To book a tour, visit thearaproject.org/visit.

Donate: Online: thearaproject.org/donate/donate-now Sign up for our newsletter: thearaproject.org/news-media/enewsletter Volunteer: thearaproject.org/volunteer/current-opportunities Contact: islita@thearaproject.org

(506) 8505-3336 proyectoara

MUSEUM OF GUANACASTE - HELP SHINE A LIGHT ON OUR HISTORY

T

he Museum of Guanacaste in Liberia needs your support in launching the second edition of its "Life and Death in the Valley of Jícaro" exhibit this summer. Museum visitors will have a unique insight into what life was like for pre-Columbian settlers in the area more than 700 years ago. Sponsorship funding is necessary to meet the symbolically important target date for the show’s inauguration on July 25, commemorating Guanacaste’s annexation from Nicaragua.

How you can help:

Contact: Anayensy Herrera - (506) 8703-7719

museodeguanacastecr@gmail.com

DONATE HEALTHY SNACKS FOR KIDS BRASILITO GUANACASTE

A

briendo Mentes has been providing innovative education and social programs to the communities of Potrero and Brasilito since 2009. We need assistance with our after-school program in Brasilito to provide healthy snacks.

How you can help:

Donate: Healthy snacks. Please deliver to the Abriendo Mentes Brasilito office, 15m east of the Asada.

Contact: rachael@abriendomentes.org

8496-9760

www.abriendomentes.org abriendomentes

Daily updates: www.facebook.com/abriendomentes

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ACTIVITIES & INFORMATION

Donate: Deposit directly

Banco Nacional de Costa Rica

account 100-01-015-007054-9;

Client Account 15101510010070540

COMMUNITY DIRECTORY All times AM to PM unless noted

ADI Community Development ADI is a group of volunteers interested in the welfare of Tamarindo Hotel Capitán Suizo Mon-Fri, 9-5 8319-4015 adi@playatamarindo.org

howlermag.com

Huacas Mon-Sat 2653-8365 cepiacostarica@gmail.com

ECO-COCO Community Organization Our mission is to raise awareness and educate the community by organizing cleanups and recycling Playas del Coco Mon-Fri, 8-5 8706-7963

PACIFIC SMILE DENTAL CARE Kids & Adults - English Speaking Highly experienced staff— orthodontics, implants, endodontics, gums Near Auto Mercado, Tamarindo Mon-Fri 9-6, Sat by appt.

2653-4354 info@pacificsmilecr.com

TAMARINDO DENTIST First Dentist in Tamarindo Implants • Orthodontist • Endodontist • Cosmetic Dentistry Tamarindo 24/7 for emergencies 2653-2020 smile@tamarindodentist.com

GROCERY STORES

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Main road to Brasilito Sun, 10am 8621-6273 perrycarlile@gmail.com

CEPIA Nonprofit Organization We promote culture, health, sports and education for children

COMMUNITY DEVELOPMENT

M&G DE HUACAS Marble, Granit and Quartz Custom countertop, highest quality and materials, free inspection and quote 50m east, 150m north, 75m west Huacas Community Center M-F, 7:30-5, Sat, 7:30-2 8840-3815 litomtz74@gmail.com

BEACH COMMUNITY CHURCH Visit and Socialize Love, hope, peace

DENTAL SERVICES

3k past Huacas intersection towards Tamarindo, on the right Open Daily 2653-9117 / 8926-6905

COMMUNITY DEVELOPMNET

BUILDING SUPPLIES

CERACSA Flooring and Tile Local showroom offering the quality and value that your luxury home deserves

CHURCH / COUNSELING

ALLINSURANCE

ALL INSURANCE CR - TAMARINDO Health, Auto, Homeowners and More Offering the best coverage with customer service a priority Across from Auto Mercado Mon-Sat, 8-5 2653-4300 / 973-536-1191 (24/7) info@allinsurancecr.com

CENTRO DE CARNES VILLA MAR Freshness & Quality is Our Priority Beef, frozen seafood, chicken, pork, sausages. We have San Martin meats Villarreal: 250m to Tamarindo Mon-Sat, 8am-7pm 2249-0710 express service carniceriavillamar@hotmail

LA URUCA, HUACAS Supermarket Food, liquor, fishing gear, and much more - delivery service available 300m W of Flamingo turnoff 7 days a week, 7-8 2653-8714

Tipografía 2

CENTURY GOTHIC ITALIC

COMMUNITY DIRECTORY All times AM to PMB/Nunless noted

CMYK

SCHOOLS

Tamarindo and Flamingo Mon-Fri, 9-1, 2-5 2654-4367 / 2653-2155 info@gmattorneyscr.com

Brasilito Mon-Fri 2654-5042 info@criacademy.com

WALDORF SCHOOL Bilingual Education, English & Spanish Foreign languages German and French Pre- Kinder – 8th Grade Canafistula 6km from Villarreal Mon-Fri, 8-2:30 8651-8301 www.gws.ed.cr info@gws.ed.cr

EDUCARTE Preschool, Primary, Secondary Private bilingual school 5km south of Huacas Mon-Fri, 8-3:30 2653-6363 info@educartecostarica.com

LA PAZ Private School All grades, international baccalaureate program Flamingo / Mar Vista Mon-Fri 2654-4532 paz@lapazschool.org

VETERINARIAN

8794-7679 / 8466-6484 costaricaantigua@gmail.com

CRIA School Education Accredited grade school and high school education

SCHOOLS

PHOTOGRAPHY PHOTOGRAPHY

COSTA RICA ANTIGUA E INEDITA José Gerardo Suárez Monge Photographer and historian, collects and analyzes historical photos

GM ATTORNEYS Legal Services Full service in all areas of law

SCHOOLS

MASSAGE THERAPIST

MASSAGES BY ELIZABETH Best Massages in Tamarindo Relaxing massages at your hotel or home Best Western Vista Villas Daily, 9-6 8640-6984 massagesbyelizabeth@yahoo.com

7241-4506 humansofpv@gmail.com @humansofpuravida

PROFESSIONAL SERVICES

MASSAGE THERAPIST

KALISAGE Day Spa and Oxygen Bar Licensed Customized Massages & Facials Plaza Tamarindo #15 Mon-Sat, 9am-7pm 2653-2050 kalisagecr@gmail.com

HUMANS OF PURA VIDA A project created by Andres Bermudez Filming and capturing moments that will last forever

SCHOOLS

Huacas - next to Super La Uruca Mon-Fri 6-8, Sat-Sun 9-5 2653-9026 / 8718-6872

PHOTOGRAPHY

FITNESS

PACIFIC COAST GYM Stay Healthy — Join Today Training, therapeutic massage, rehab, physiotherapy and nutrition

ESCALA DE GRISES

CAVALLINI VETERINARIAN Animal Hospital Full-service veterinarian hospital for all animals and wildlife Royal Palms Plaza, Santa Rosa Mon-Sat, 8-noon, 1-7, Sun, 9-2 2652-9009 / 8815-5713 (24/7)

THE DOGTOR Vet, Grooming & Pet Shop Export proceedings, delivery, pickup and dropoff service Plaza Palmas #3, Tamarindo Mon-Sat, 8-5 8351-9910 / 4702-5106 thedogtortamarindo@gmail.com

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COMMUNITY DIRECTORY

PLAYAS DEL COCO

All times AM to PM unless noted

KRAIN Luxury Real Estate Member of Leading Real Estate Companies of the World

CHRISTIE'S International Real Estate Specializing in Costa Rica real estate for over 27 years

RE/MAX OCEAN SURF & SUN Nobody Sells More Real Estate Sales of residential condos, homes and single-family home sites

KELLER WILLIAMS COSTA RICA BEACH PROPERTIES Helping your dreams be a reality; sales of homes, condos, land and businesses Tamarindo, Sunrise Plaza Flamingo, North Ridge Road Mon-Fri, 9-5, Sat, 9-1 2654-5460 kwcostarica.com

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SPECIAL PLACES COSTA RICA Property Management & Rentals Full management, rental and concierge services Flamingo and Playas del Coco Mon-Sat, 8-5 2654-4493 / 2670-2198 specialplaces@crvr.net

REAL ESTATE

REAL ESTATE

HORIZON PACIFIC Property Management and Rentals A leader in quality properties and services: Vacation rentals, management, association administration Tamarindo, Plaza Palmas #17 Mon-Sat, 9-5, Sun 9-2 2653-0390 horizonpacificvacations.com

Playa Tamarindo 7 days a week, 9-5 2653-0073 www.remax-oceansurf-cr.com

Hermosa del Mar Plaza #7 Mon-Fri, 8-5, Sat, 8-noon 4702-7098 / 2665-8746 info@costarica-brokers.com

KRAIN Luxury Real Estate Member of Leading Real Estate Companies of the World

REAL ESTATE

REAL ESTATE

REAL ESTATE

Tamarindo & Flamingo Mon-Fri, 8-5 2654-4004 / 8407-1898 info@plantacionproperties.com

Flamingo, Potrero, Ocotal Daily 8-5 2654-4010 info@kraincostarica.com

BROKERS COSTA RICA Property Management & Rentals We specialize in luxury rentals and property management

REAL ESTATE SCHOOLS

REAL ESTATE

REAL ESTATE

ABC REAL ESTATE Fine Selections by the Beach We offer personalized service and a full range of real estate services Plaza Tamarindo Mon-Fri, 9-5, Sat, 9-1 2653-0404 tamarindo@abccostarica.com

All times AM to PM unless noted

Ocotal, Flamingo, Potrero Daily 8-5 2654-4010 info@kraincostarica.com

RE/MAX OCEAN VILLAGE Exclusive Buyer's Agents Roland & Nadene Tipper: Helping buyers find their piece of paradise Pacifico Village, Playas del Coco Daily, 8-5 8371-1520 thetippers@me.com

SUNSET PROPERTIES Rentals, Management & Sales Various condos with beautiful amenities, close to beaches!

Pueblito Sur #4, Coco Mon-Fri, 8-4, Sat, 8-1 2670-1453 / 8497-9376 crbeachproperties.com

DINING GUIDE

HOWLER is exc i t e d t o welcomes CURRY ON, the first true I n d i a n R e s t a u ra n t t o Ta m a r i n d o HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 75

DINING GUIDE

PAPAGAYO / PLAYAS DEL COCO / GUANACASTE

Based in Papagayo, serving the Guanacaste region Hours Available every day of the year by reservation

Guanacaste Chef4U: Simply Superb Private Catering

Phone: 8706-2144 ndevenelle@exclusiveresorts. com

The acclaimed French chef Nicolas Devenelle and his team of outstanding cooks will create a dinner experience for you, whether you’re a couple, a family or a wedding party. Their unsurpassed culinary innovations and gorgeous presentation will create an unforgettable dining experience at the place and time of your choosing.

Specialties Private dinners, events, weddings, culinary workshops, mixology lessons

“TURRIALBA” 4-COURSE PLATED DINNER Organic Green Salad

Wagyu Short Rib

Homemade Lobster Ravioli

Soursop Cheesecake

Fresh asparagus, orange segments, hearts of palm and garden-herb vinaigrette Spinach, lobster, tomato, basil, white truffle parmesan sauce

Slowly braised, served with garlic mashed potato and asparagus With pineapple chips and passion fruit coulis

Located inside Bahía Pez Vela resort, 5 km west of Playas del Coco; always open to the public Hours Daily, noon-9pm

Maracuyá Beach Club: Exquisite Oceanfront Dining

Phone: 2670-0901 info@guanacastechef4u.com Specialties Offering lunch, dinner and full bar, with day passes available to use the pool, plus mixology lessons Weekly Calendar Mon: Catch of the Day Market Tue: Mixology Class Wed: Culinary Academy Thu: Ping-Pong Tournament Fri: BBQ Night, Live Music

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Also operated by Chef Nicolas Devenelle, Maracuyá Beach Club offers fine dining in a pristine setting on an isolated beach near Playa Ocotal. Pamper your palate with culinary excellence in this secluded piece of paradise.

MENU SELECTIONS Mango Salad with Chicken c5,900

Beef Short Ribs

Grilled Jumbo Prawn Salad c6,900

Red Snapper ‘En Papillote’

c12,500

Yellowfin Tuna Tartare

Beef Tenderloin

c13,500

Mixed greens, tomato, mango, avocado, corn, blue cheese, croutons and grilled herb chicken

With mixed greens, mango, heart of palm and Caribbean mojito passion fruit vinaigrette

c7,900

Tuna, wakame, mango, avocado, arugula, and truffle oil, with cucumber carpaccio

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c8,900

With mushroom risotto, creamy parmesan and truffle sauce Served with home-made ratatouille and basil mashed potato

Potato gratin, green asparagus and haricot vert, red wine sauce

TAMARINDO

DINING GUIDE

Plaza Conchal II, 2nd Floor, Tamarindo Hours Mon-Sat, Lunch: 11:30-2:30 Dinner: 6:30-10 Closed Sunday Phone: 8404-7887 / 4700-2283 Facebook: @curryontamarindo Specialties Lunch Special: Indian Casado Single malt scotch, local beers, different wines and cocktails

Curry On: Indian Restaurant, V - Vegetarian / VG - Vegan / GF - Gluten Free Guanacaste is one of the best regions in Costa Rica, featuring a large variety of cuisines. Curry On! is yet another feather in Guanacaste´s cuisine cap. We are the first Indian cuisine restaurant in the area. Indian food sizzles and excites. It adds a zing to the senses. We realized the need and decided to start with a small operation. We are located on the second floor in Plaza Conchal Tamarindo.

Our best-selling appetizers are our chicken kebabs, with three different melt-in-the-mouth varieties. We are especially known for our curries, notably, tikka masala (cream based),bhuna (homestyle curry), shahi (creamy nut-based curry) and hariyali (spinach based). We offer a variety of breads, all cooked from scratch in our kitchen. We offer vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options. If you have something special on your mind that is not on our menu, let us know and we will do our best to make it for you.

MENU SELECTIONS Indian Casado (GF) Lunch Special

Includes rajma, salad, raita, rice and choice of your curry (Aaloo Gobhi Masala, Chole, chicken curry or fish curry)

Veggie Pakora (V/VG/GF)

Veggies coated in seasoned chickpea batter and deep-fried

Pindi Chana (V/VG/GF)

Dry chickpea cooked with dry spices

Tandoori Chicken (GF)

Yogurt and spice marinated chicken cooked in clay oven

Rajma (V/VG/GF)

Kidney Bean in tomato and onion curry

Chole (V/VG/GF)

Homestyle chickpeas bean in tomato and onion curry

Aaloo Gobhi Masala (V/VG/GF) Cauliflower and potatoes cooked in homestyle curry

Tikka Masala (GF)

Rich creamy tomato, ginger, garlic sauce cooked with almond puree (chicken, fish, shrimp)

Paneer Kofta (V)

Indian cheese balls cooked in rich tomato gravy

Bhuna (GF)

Homestyle onion, tomato curry with herbs and spices (chicken, fish, shrimp)

Kheer (V/GF)

Slow cooked rice and milk with nuts and saffron

Saffron Shreekhand (V/GF)

Sweetened thick yogurt with fresh fruits

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DINING GUIDE

TAMARINDO / LANGOSTA

Hotel Capitán Suizo, Playa Tamarindo Hours Daily, noon to 9:30pm Mon, 7-9pm, Live marimba Fri. 7-9pm, live marimba Phone: 2653-0075 restaurante@hotelcapitansuizo.com Specialties Healthy dishes made from scratch with local and fresh products.

El Barco Del Capitán: European-Tico Fusion, Beachfront Restaurant El Barco Del Capitán is nestled in the beautiful garden of the Hotel Capitán Suizo and offers a modern, healthy and fresh cuisine.

The restaurant is open to the public for lunch, snacks and dinner. The chef, Jujo Molina, created his dishes inspired by his European roots and the incredible nature that surrounds him here in Costa Rica. Using products from the on-site organic garden and local producers, he creates entirely homemade plates with no additives or preservatives to offer healthy meals every day, every time.

MENU SELECTIONS Ensalada Pulpo (Lunch) $18 Octopus, capers, green olives, tomato carpaccio with paprika vinaigrette

Croquetas del Chef (Snack) $9 Homemade Spanish croquetas with octopus, fish, chicken or spinach

Tartar Capitan (Dinner)

$13

Tacos Carne (Lunch)

$15

Calamares Crujientes (Snack) $13

Rollo Pollo (Dinner)

$20

The Veggie (Lunch)

$15

Tartar Capitán (Dinner) $13

Linguini (Dinner)

$23

Fish Pita (Lunch)

$17

Tres Vegetales (Dinner) $10

Lomito (Dinner)

$28

Beef, tortillas with mixed cabbage salad, guacamole and tamarindo sauce Grilled portobello, tomato, zucchini, chilealmonds-garlic sauce, homemade bun Pita, grilled mahi-mahi, cucumber, carrot, dill yogurt, green leaf side salad

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Crispy calamari with homemade green pesto and a honey, red onion escabèche.

Tuna and mango tartar with capers in a cilantro, ginger & soy vinaigrette Roasted eggplant-red peppers-onion tartare with homemade garlic bread

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Tuna and mango tartar with capers and a cilantro, ginger and soy dressing

Chicken stuffed with mango, asparagus and bacon, potato puree

Calamari, jumbo shrimps, mussels, Spanish chorizo, cherry tomatoes, white wine

200gr of tenderloin with a tamarind sauce over Swiss Roësti and vegetables

TAMARINDO / LANGOSTA

DINING GUIDE

Beachfront, 400m toward Langosta from Super 2001 Hours Daily, 9am-10pm Phone: 2653-1127 info@langostabeachclub.com Specialties Right on the beach Live music Daily happy hour, 4-6pm

Langosta Beach Club: Two Beachfront Restaurants: French and Sushi Langosta Beach Club is the only true beach club in the Tamarindo area. Always open to the public. Uniquely offering two outstanding restaurants. The finest French cuisine in the area and the freshest sushi, made only upon ordering. Served on the beach or poolside or in your own private cabana. The atmosphere is a mix of Costa Rica casual during the beach club day, but very classy and romantic by night. A nice variety of very delightful cuisine. Day passes are available to have access to the pool, fitness and lounge chairs. Sporting equipment also available: surf , SUP, kayak and more.

MENU SELECTIONS Tuna Tartare

Lomito Gorgopepper

Poke Salad - Sushi

Crispy Jumbo Shrimp

Marcus Chicken

King Rolls - Sushi

Goat Cheese Caprese

Tuna Napoleon

Mussel MariniĂŠre

Langosta Salad

Seabass Champagne

Mozzarella and Avocado Tartare

Yellowfin Pacific raw tuna delightfully marinated with the finest ingredients

Tenderloin served with lyonnaise potato, green peppercorn and gorgonzola sauce

Fresh shrimp rolled in a pasta filo with Chicken breast served in a creamy coriander fried and served with spicy sauce gorgonzola sauce with mashed potatoes Brioche bread with fresh goat cheese with vinaigrette, balsamic reduction and more

Pacific tuna served with crispy potato, arugula, caviar and mousseline sauce

Poached langosta with caviar in white sauce, Seabass filet with a champagne and white toasted brioche, arugula and vinaigrette mushroom sauce with balsamic reduction

Tuna, onion, avocado, seaweed, hot pepper, sesame seeds Shrimp tempura, cucumber, avocado covered with crab mixture with tempura crispy Cooked in white wine, leek, onion, parsley and garlic, served with our signature fries Freshly diced mozzarella, avocado, tomato, onion, capers, lettuce served with vinaigrette

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LANGOSTA

25m south of Naxos Playa Langosta

Boka's: Wine Bar

Restaurant

Hours Daily, 6pm-midnight Phone: 8562-5432 bokaslangosta@gmail

Hours Mon-Sat, 7am -8pm Sun, 8am-4pm

Tapas bar, French fusion, fine wine. A delightful inviting environment. French chefs create new menus daily with fresh ingredients.

Specialties Happy hour, 5:30-7 - 2x1 Moscow mule cocktail - National beer c1000

Phone: 4701-3291 Specialties Natural foods vegetarian & vegan

Happy hour menu and specialty cocktails. Come and enjoy!

MENU SELECTIONS

Traditional Ceviche

c4000

Cordon Blue

c5000

Topped with a fresh cucumber mousse

Served with a creamy cheese polenta on the side

TAMARINDO

200m E, 800m N of Banco Nacional, on top of the hill Hours 7am - 10pm Phone: 8366-1576 / 4700-4747

Healthy - Easy - Delicious Special breakfasts, lunches and dinners, coffee & dessert Salads, sandwiches, falafel, fruit juices and green juice,. We also provide vegetarian and vegan options

MENU SELECTIONS Falafel and Tabbouleh Pad Thai - Vegetable Arepas - Cachapas

Vista @ Esplendor: Fresh and creative food

An alliance between a French restaurant and an Argentinean touch. Come up and see why we are called the vista, and enjoy the fresh ocean breezes. For lunch, dinner or just a drink, you will enjoy our wonderful view of Tamarindo Bay. Happy hour from 4 to 6 and live music on weekends.

Chicken Lime Salad

$12

Sea Bass Meuniere

$13

Roastbeef King

$12

Tuna Pesto Sauce

$14

XL Burger

$15

Veggies Pasta

$14

Chicken, tomato, lettuce, red onions, sweet pepper, candied lime vinaigrette Homemade bread, roast beef, onions, tomato, lettuce, mustard, french fries

Homemade bread, beef, bacon, onions, cheese, tomato, lettuce, bbq, french fries

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Shaka Food

MENU SELECTIONS

Specialties Mixed French and Argentinean cuisine.

Wonderful view and fresh breezes.

Happy hour 4-6pm

3km from Villarreal, Tamarindo Road

howlermag.com

Sea bass filet with white butter and pink pepper sauce, mashed potatoes

Tuna, tomato, red onions, capers, virgin olive oil and vinegar vegetables sautĂŠ Pink peppercorn sauce, capers, choice of two sides

TAMARINDO

DINING GUIDE

TAMARINDO

DINING GUIDE

Calle Del Parque at the curve between Condo Diria and Balcones del Pacifico Hours Daily, 5:30pm-10pm Closed Tuesdays Phone: 2653-1510 Call for reservations www.tamarindobarefoot.com barefoot.tamarindo@gmail.com Specialties Fresh seafood, fish and vegetarian dishes with gluten-free and vegan options. Order/reserve online

BAREFOOT Restaurant-Lounge: Poolside and Garden Deck Dining Tropical Oasis apart from the noise and crowds of Tamarindo main street , where you can experience a quiet dinner and/or a relaxing lounge atmosphere. You can choose the garden deck or our Costa Rican rancho (SHAKALAKA) pool side deck. Serving a healthy combination of fish, seafood, and vegetarian (V) dishes gluten free(G) and vegan (VE) options available. We offer a modern palette of international flavors that includes recipes from Asia, Europe, and Latin America.Check our special order items such as the "Paella" y "Pescado a la Sal" / Salt Baked fish. Our lounge area serves a variety of cocktails including our signature Barefoot Passion "its Hot", Espresso, & Tamarindo martinis made with 100% local/natural ingredients. Make reservations online or call, or place an order online for pickup-delivery, or special order.

Vegetarian (V), Gluten Free(G), Vegan (VE)

MENU SELECTIONS Pico Poke (G)

Seared tuna with mango and avocado, over seaweed salad with ginger soy sauce

$9.50 Pad Thai (V/G)

Fine rice pasta noodles sautéed with vegetables and served with peanut sauce

Buddha Platter (V)

$13.50

Venus & Uranus (V)

$8

Octopus Sautéed in Garlic $9

Ocean Potion

$15

OB1 Quinoa Salad (VE/G) $9.50 Tropical Spring Rolls (VE/G) $8

Grilled Local Trout (G)

$16

Barefoot Reef Salad (G)

Trident

$19

Fried risotto spheres filled with spinach, fresh herbs and béchamel sauce Quinoa mix with avocado, cranberries, pineapple, almonds, red peppers & more

$12

Grilled octopus or shrimp “Al Ajillo” (sautéed with garlic)

Rice wraps filled with fresh vegetables, mango, avocado, and fresh herbs

$16 Grilled Mahi-Mahi (G) $15 Fresh seafood & fish with octopus, mussels, Grilled mahi-mahi over a bed of spinach shrimp, calamari, & crab meat topped with caramelized onions

Vegetarian delights. lentil croquettes, quinoa, spring rolls, eggplant & plantain Seafood & fish soup in coconut cream served with avocado, plantain and risotto

Grilled Costa Rican trout served with our house coconut and almond sauce Our abundant blend of local grilled/tempura seafood and fish

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DINING GUIDE

TAMARINDO

Nordico Coffee House Nordico is a cozy coffee shop in Tamarindo that serves specialty barista coffee and healthy organic food and drinks. Everything we make is homemade with love and lots of flavors and we put an honor in serving the best local quality costa rican products and coffee. Nordico Coffee House is spacious, has Wifi and AC and a nice terrace, so it's a chilling place to hang out, or just to enjoy, pura vida.

Plaza Tamarindo Second floor Hours Mon-Fri, 7:30am-5pm Sat, 8am-4pm Closed Sun

MENU SELECTIONS Acai Bowl

sm. c3,000, lg c4,000

NorTico

c4,500

Pancakes

c3,500

Mayan Tortilla

c4,000

Avocado Eggsplosion

c3,800

Quinoa

c4,500

Fruits & granola/almonds

Specialties Gourmet coffee Lunch combo, noon-close (Sandwich & smoothie) Acai bowl Healthy food and bakery

Served with fresh strawberries, powdered sugar, homemade syrup, almonds & caramel Nordic or paleo bread, butter, avocado, poached egg, homemade tomato salsa

HUACAS

3km south of Huacas, road to Tamarindo Hours Daily, 7am-9pm Breakfast 7am-10am

Rice, beans, plantains, sour cream, sausage, scrambled egg and avocado

Organic homemade tortillas, bean spread, 2 organic fried eggs, cheese, homemade salsa and avocado Spinach, arugula, baby tomatoes, avocado, mango, spring onions, dressing & bread of your choice

La Playita: Poolside Dining Located at the Seis Playas Hotel, La Playita restaurant and bar is open to hotel guests and the public, and is known for its friendly and inviting environment. It is the ideal setting for sharing good food and drinks with family and friends, or a romantic dinner poolside while enjoying the convenient distance to our six local beaches.

MENU SELECTIONS Phone: 2653-6818 info@seisplayashotel.com Specialties Food cooked to your taste — con mucho gusto Friday Night Texas Barbecue

Broken Yolk Sandwich

$12

Pasta

Breakfast Quesadilla

$12

Open Grill

BLT La Playita

$10

Pineapple FlambĂŠ

Fried egg, bacon or ham and cheese on toast, served with seasonal fruit Eggs, tomato, onion, sweet pepper and cheese, served with seasonal fruit Always a favorite for a light bite to eat: bacon, lettuce and tomato

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$14

Build your own pasta bowl, with a mixed salad

From $16

Pork tenderloin, chicken breast, ribeye, New York strip, beef tenderloin & catch of the day

$4

Our most popular dessert served hot with vanilla ice cream

PALM BEACH

DINING GUIDE

Palm Beach, next to the estuary Hours Breakfast: 7:30-2:30 Lunch: 11-3 Dinner: 5:30-9 Phone: 2653-0975 frontdesk@hotelbulabula.com Specialties

Daily:

Sunset happy hour 50% off appetizers 4-6pm

Monday:

Mexican all you care to eat buffet 5:30-8:30

Wednesday:

Italian All you care to eat Buffet 5:30-8:30

The Great Waltini's - Bula Bula: American Fusion Cuisine Enjoy casual fine dining and experience “A fusion of the Americas” in a tranquil and inviting setting. At the Great Waltini’s, you can enjoy a sumptuous meal in an attractive dining area or choose to sit under the stars and enjoy your meal on the garden patio. Choose from houseaged steaks, seafood dishes, and down home fare. Top with cocktails and desserts—the complete experience.

Located in beautiful Palm Beach Estates next to the estuary. Easily accessible from Tamarindo via boat taxi (complimentary with dinner reservations). Pickup time 5, 5:30 and 6 pm. Please call before 2pm to reserve boat taxi (2653-0975).

Happy hour – includes domestic beer, well drinks, giant famous Bula margaritas and appetizer specials.

MENU SELECTIONS Ahi Tuna

Annie's Salad

Double Cut Pork Chop

Hand Carved Turkey

Blackened Shrimp Salad

Aged Filet Mignon

Mahi-Mahi

Baked Lasagna

St. Louis Style Pork Ribs

Mixed Seafood Combo

Aged New York Steak

8oz filet prepared tropical, blackened, sautéed or fried Oven roasted turkey, mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce and house made gravy 8oz filet prepared tropical, blackened, sautéed or fried Tuna, mahi-mahi, jumbo shrimp, calamari, & mussels in a white wine saffron sauce

Blackened chicken breast with avocado over crisp greens and fresh vegetables Blackened jumbo shrimp, sliced avocado over fresh lettuce and fresh vegetables Italian sausage, beef & pork, tomato, ricotta, mozzarella and romano cheese

10oz cut prepared charbroiled, blackened or au poivre in brandy cream sauce 10oz cut prepared charbroiled, blackened or au poivre in brandy cream sauce Baked tender and served with our famous tropical Bula Bula BBQ sauce

10oz cut prepared charbroiled, blackened or au poivre in brandy cream sauce

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 83

DINING GUIDE

SURFSIDE / POTRERO

Potrero, 800m north of Banco Nacional Hours Daily, 1 -9

The Beach House Beachfront Dining Private residence on the beach transformed into a quaint restaurant and bar, renowned for its fresh seafood. Come and enjoy incredible food and awesome sunsets and views of the Pacific Ocean.

Phone: 2654-6203 Specialties Fresh seafood Epic sunset view

MENU SELECTIONS Grilled Scallops

c5000

Onion Rings

c3500

Catch of the Day

c9000

Jambalaya

c7500

Pesto Tuna Sandwich

c7000

Grilled in a bath of Cacique liquor, lime and garlic With tropical salsa, grilled vegetables & potatoes or rice

Angus Tenderloin

c11000

Grilled to perfection with vegetables & rosemary potatoes

Sausage, shrimp & chicken with onions, tomatoes & peppers in Cajun sauce over rice or linguini Pesto seared tuna on fresh bread served with lettuce, tomato & pesto aioli

Numu: International Cuisine

Hwy 911 just east of Bahia del Sol

Numu’s poolside restaurant is a wonderful modern setting that has an eclectic fusion of international cuisines like pad thai, sushi and red curry. Also offering a selection of vegan and gluten-free alternatives. Numu uses as many locally sourced ingredients as possible for the richest flavorful dishes.

Hours Daily, noon-10pm Phone: 4702-8689 Specialties Vegan and gluten-free

MENU SELECTIONS Pad Thai

c4000

Numu Angus Burger

Numu Roll

c4500

Grilled Tenderloin

Kung Pao Chicken

c5000

Seabass

Noodles, sauce, red pepper, green beans, red onion, bean sprouts Salmon, mango, avocado, cucumber, spicy mayo, unagi sauce

Stir-fried with vegetables, peanuts and chili peppers over jasmine rice

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Thick-cut battered with a subtle blend of spices, served with garlic mayo and rosada sauce

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c4500

Premium Angus ground, lettuce, tomato, onion, pickles, fresh-cut fries

c10000

8oz chargrilled tenderloin, chimichurri sauce on the side, choice of two sides

c9800

Pink peppercorn sauce, capers, choice of two sides

Black Stallion

Rustic Outdoor BBQ

Hours By reservation Phone: 8869-9765 Specialties Zipline and BBQ buffet for only $85.

Available for private parties and events.

Dine with the stars of Guanacaste on a private ranch. Enjoy a delicious BBQ buffet with sides. Wine, beer and sangria included! Call for reservations.

Available for private parties and events.

Flamingo - 100m south of road to Potrero

True Italian cuisine.

Pasta like you are in Roma!

Fresh bruschetta served when you arrive. Buon appetito!

Phone: 8532-8613 Specialties Pizza - Pasta - Meat - Fish

MENU SELECTIONS

Mixed BBQ Buffet

$45

Seafood Buffet

$45

A delicious array of seafood and sides dishes

Italian Restaurant

Hours Daily, 5:30pm-10:30pm Closed Wednesday

MENU SELECTIONS Baby back ribs, chorizo and chicken, sides included

Vaca Loka

House Lasagna

c6.500

Ribeye c6.500

SIMPLY SPANISH WHAT’S FOR BREAKFAST? frutas — fruit gallo pinto — “speckled rooster,” meaning rice and beans served for breakfast, an authentically Costa Rican breakfast also claimed by Nicaragua huevos fritos — fried eggs huevos revueltos — scrambled eggs huevos rancheros — Mexican-style eggs with tomato sauce and chile jamón — ham jugo de naranja — orange juice mantequilla — butter natilla — sour cream pan de canela — cinnamon bread panqueques — pancakes papas — potatoes plátanos — plantains queso — cheese tocineta — bacon (often tocino in other countries) tortillas — tortillas tostadas — toast tostadas francesas — French toast

50m west of the plaza, in front of Playa Brasilito

El Oasis

Bar & Restaurant

Hours Daily, 7am-10pm Phone: 2654-4596 Specialties Serving breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Happy hour 3-6 daily, serving cocktails

Latin Fusion restaurant serving a mix of Costa Rican classics along with delicious Mexican dishes including fresh seafood. Many glutenfree options.

MENU SELECTIONS Chilaquiles Mexican Salad with Shrimp and Coconut Shrimp with Mango Sauce HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 85

BRASILITO

VILLARREAL

An 8 min. drive from Tamarindo, 2km south Villarreal

FLAMINGO

DINING GUIDE

DINING GUIDE

BRASILITO

Main corner, Brasilito Hours Mon-Fri, 11am-midnight Sat-Sun, 10am-midnight Phone: 8688-0651 costarica@ lucysretiredsurfers.com Specialties Only for the brave: Our infamous scorpion shot

Lucy’s Retired Surfers Bar & Restaurant: Coastal Cuisine Beachfront restaurant and bar serving unique coastal fusion dishes and cocktails featuring the freshest ingredients in Guanacaste!

Lucy’s is more than just a restaurant, it’s a lifestyle. With locations in some of the most tubular spots around the world (New Orleans, Key West, Costa Rica and Aruba), we know how to have a good time. Let the sea breeze and sound of the waves remind you that when you’re here you’re always on vacation. At Lucy’s we’re serious about our grub – we’ve got all your classic favorites like burgers and nachos, as well as our signature coastal bites with a touch of Pacific flair. Our one-of-a-kind drinks are the perfect way to cool down after a long day at the beach, and we keep them flowing all day (and night!) long. Lucy's’ daily food & drink specials are boat-to-table and will give you something new to try every day, and with live music, a radical bar scene, and six large-screen TVs, Lucy’s is Guanacaste's hottest new bar and restaurant!

MENU SELECTIONS Shaka Ceviche

c5,500

The Juicy Lucy

Avocado Fritas

c5,500

Bacon Brie Chicken Sandwich

Cheese Quesadilla

c5,000

Tsunami Tuna Salad

Serious Nachos

c6,700

Blackened Fish Tacos c6,000

Delicious fresh local fish and shrimp in a citrus marinade topped with avocado

Beer-battered avocado slices served with black bean salsa and homemade ranch

Flour tortilla overflowing with melted cheese, served with pico and guacamole

Fully loaded nachos topped with beans, pico, sour cream, and our rockin’ guac

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c7,500

Our famous 8 oz. burger served on a brioche bun with Lucy’s special sauce

Grilled marinated chicken breast topped with bacon, brie, tomato, and spinach

c6,500

Freshly seared yellowfin served over spring mix with fresh fruit and feta

Blackened local fish topped with mangopineapple slaw and avocado crema

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Pao Pao Shrimp Tacos c6,500 Fried or grilled shrimp tossed in a sassy pao pao sauce, topped with cabbage slaw

Flank Steak Tacos

c6,500

Marinated flank steak topped with jalapeño chimichurri and queso fresco

Whole Red Snapper Casado c8,000 Served with island rice, black beans, and a side salad

N’awlins Surf n’ Turf c10,000 Marinated flank steak served with head-on Cajun BBQ shrimp and roasted potatoes

LAS CATALINAS

DINING GUIDE

At Casa Chameleon, 4km north of the Potrero soccer field Hours Daily, 7am-10pm No children under 12 years Phone: 2103-1200 concierge@ casachameleonhotels.com Specialties Fresh fish, sunset cocktails, "boquitas" menu

Sentido Norte - Fine Dining Sentido Norte, a restaurant and bar at Casa Chameleon, proudly offers an adult fine-dining experience that celebrates the best of Costa Rican cuisine. Your drive through winding roads above the quaint beach town of Las Catalinas is rewarded by an unforgettable but affordable taste of luxury.

Just a few steps uphill from the bright and welcoming entrance, your table awaits in a gorgeous, open-air perch framed by a panoramic view of the Pacific. A design motif incorporating responsibly sourced teak adds a sense of warmth and well-being to the romantically lit atmosphere. All food and drinks are inspired by the country’s bountiful abundance, combining uniquely local and native ingredients in the glass and on the plate.

MENU SELECTIONS Overnight Oats

$18

Casa Chameleon Burger

French Toast

$12

Ceviche $14

Knife & Fork Tortillas

$14

With almond milk, yogurt, fruit, cashews, local honey or tapa dulce

With sweet plantains and coconut milk cream

$19

Angus burger with arugula, Swiss or goat cheese and aioli Fresh fish ceviche, leche de tigre, homemade "chilero"

Grilled Chicken Wrap

$12

ChicharrĂłn or vegan huevos rancheros

Vegan Omelettes

Vegan Bowl

$6

$10

Octopus & Mussels

$29

Grilled Skirt Steak

$30

Fresh Tuna Poke

$24

Hearts of palm ceviche, avocado & tomato

Octopus and mussels wok-sauteed in garlic butter and white wine

With greens, avocado & tomato, spicy aioli

With asparagus, mushrooms and caramelized onion

Guacamole and Salsa

$19

Quinoa, mushroom and squash picadillo salad, spicy garbanzo beans

Skirt steak, chimichurri sauce, salad, french fries

Raw tuna, mango, avocado

Prices shown include 13% tax and 10% service / Prices subject to change

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 87

RESTAURANT DIRECTORY All times AM to PM unless noted

SODA GUAYMY HUACAS

PLAYA GRANDE

Plaza Conchal II, 2nd floor, Tamarindo Mon-Sat, 11:30am-10pm 4700-2283 / 8404-7887 @curryontamarindo

SODA GUAYMY Typical & Rustic Food Breakfast, lunch, dinner and drinks

MARACUYÁ RESTAURANT More Than Dinner, It’s an Experience Pamper your palate with culinary excellence in our secluded piece of paradise Beachfront at Bahía Pez Vela Resort Daily, noon-9 2670-0901 guanacastechef4u.com/maracuya

PORO PORO at Villa Buena Onda Amazing Food, Amazing Views!

Ocean-view dining experience in a luxurious and secluded environment

200m W of Super Compro Daily, 6-9 7028-3264 / 8911-2191 Jimemurillo98@hotmail.com

LA PLAYITA RESTAURANTE Poolside Dining Located at Seis Playas Hotel. Quality food and drink for friends and family at Seis Playas Hotel 3 km S of Huacas toward Villarreal 7 days a week, 7-9 2653-6818 info@seisplayashotel.com

From anchor, 200m E, 700m S Daily, 8-8 4031-7707 reservations@villabuenaonda.com

RIO PIEDRAS, TILARAN

HUACAS

TAMARINDO

CURRY ON! Indian Restaurant The first and only Indian cuisine restaurant in the area

Hotel Capitán Suizo Daily, noon-10pm 2653-0075

PLAYAS DEL COCO

TAMARINDO/LANGOSTA

PLAYA GRANDE

POTS & BOWLS Coffee Shop Surrounded by Plants Food and beverage with vegan options, an assortment of pastries, coffee selections, matcha, organic wine and cold pressed juices.

Playa Grande, Main Road Daily, 8-5 4701-2394 potsandbowls@gmail.com

EL BARCO AT CAPITAN SUIZO Beachfront Restaurant Entirely homemade dishes, no additives, healthy meals every time

ROCK RIVER BY BRASOV Restaurant, Bakery & Lounge Our best recipe is quality. Homemade, fresh, healthy. Best bread and divine desserts Rio Piedras, Tilarán Mon-Sat, 8-6, Sun, 8-5 8550-7762 transilvaniatila@gmail.com

Odry’s Massage Massage Pedicure

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Manicure Waxing

Tamarindo - main intersection, above Tamarindo Transfer & Tours Daily, 9am-6, call for appointment, walk-ins welcome 2653-0939 ordrys.massage@hotmail.com

CONTRIBUTORS Robert August. Tamarindo’s legendary surfer and shaper from the Endless Summer movies.

Gregory Basco. Award-winning professional nature photographer and environmentalist. www. deepgreenphotography.com, www.fotoverdetours. com Mariana Castilla. Local writer, teacher and graphic designer.

Gilberth Cavallini. Veterinary Doctor, owner Cavallini Veterinary Services, Villarreal (MegaSuper Plaza). tamarindovet@gmail.com Ellen Zoe Golden. Former entertainment biz PR flack, now living the dream as a travel agent and journalist in my long-time home of Tamarindo. And yes, I surf!

Johnny Lahoud. Owner/broker of Pura Vida Realty, Playa Grande. He loves Costa Rica a lot. pvrealty@ gmail.com Christine Larson. Partner in Desafio Adventure Co. A former world-traveling tour guide, journalist, and Madison Wisconson City Council Woman. Mother and wife, loving the Costa Rica life.

Sylvia Monge. Owner of Spanish for Expats, a tutoring and translation service. spanishforexpats23@ gmail.com Patricia Sterman. Argentinian fashion design graduate, living in Costa Rica for 20 years. Owner of Azul Profundo Boutique, jewelry manufacturer and co-founder of SalveMonos animal protection group.

Valeria Gonzalez. Owner of Almacen Organico & Natural, Tamarindo.almacenorganicoynatural@gmail. com WhatsApp +54 9 223 5415383.

José Gerardo Suárez Monge. Professional photographer, graphic designer and author of six Costa Rican historical photo books. Call 7062-3086 or 8794-7679.

Ivan Granados. Managing Partner at GM Attorneys.

He specializes in real estate and corporate law. igranados@gmattorneyscr.com

Jenn Parker. An avid writer, traveler, and nature lover on a mission to surf the earth and share her stories.

Jarryd Jackson. Owner of J&M Architecture and Construction, Jarryd is passionate about building and surfing.

Karl Kahler. Author of "Frommer's Costa Rica 2017," former travel editor of the Tico Times and former national editor of California's San Jose Mercury News.

Vern Veer Jr. Retired reptile specialist, Denver zoo.

Co-owner of V3 Reptile breeders.

PHOTOGRAPHY Abi Acuña. Dreamer-photographer inspired by love in capturing magic moments to tell your story. Contact: 8737-3885. digital.photocr@gmail.com

Jorgelina Agramunt. We document your surf session at the breaks in Avellanas Beach with consistently incredible, rad images and create wall art. 88799612. www.avellanassurfphotos.com Gregory Basco. Award-winning professional nature photographer and environmentalist. www. deepgreenphotography.com, www.fotoverdetours. com Andres F. Bermudez. Created Humans of Pura Vida — beyond a concept and more of a lifestyle, filming and capturing moments that last forever. 7241-4506. humansofpv@gmail.com Facebook @HumansofPuraVida and Instagram @ humansofpuravida Recaredo Cerdas. Electromechanical by profession, photographer by passion. Behind every photograph there is always a story to tell. San Carlos, Alajuela.

8348-2057. dacerdas@gmail.com Esteban Delgado. Professional photographer outside and inside the water; aerial photography, drone and videos. San Jose, Costa Rica. 8622-4036 & 2282642. estebandg7@gmail.com Luca Rey. Originally from France, is a nomadic surfer who has traveled all over the world capturing the best moments behind the lens. lucarey.costarica@gmail.com Jorge A. Russell. Professional photographer from Chile based in Jaco beach. Does outdoor photography and studio photography. 8836-6475. jorgerussellphotographer@gmail.com

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 89

We’re Proud to Present Another Sustainable Project

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Electricity - 95% Solar (PV) Operated

Sustainable Architecture Interior Architecture Project Management Planning, Permitting, Construction

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OVERSEAS PACIFIC REALTY New Costa Rica Offices Playa Flamingo - Guanacaste

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info@grupopacificocr.com

PL AYA FL A M I N G O • COS TA R I C A

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info@overseaspacificrealty.com For Sale $1,700,000 10 rooms / Large Pool Large Capacity Public Restaurant

25 m sur antes del puente Flamingo Marina Guanacaste, Playa Flamingo 50308 HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 91

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