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Mural created during the Aliados Festival in San José, Costa Rica, March 2018. (Ezequiel Becerra /AFP)
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 1
HOWLER
CO N T E N T S Holidays in San José Cover Story
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4 ACE: Arts Culture Entertainment 4 - ACE Feature: Holidays in San José 8 - CR History in Photos: Holiday Traditions
10 - Juan Santamaria Historical Cultural Museum 12 - Cultural Heritage: Ox Cart History in Costa Rica 14 - Urban Tourism: Carpe Chepe! 16 - Spotlight: Diego Fournier 18 - Tico Time Zone: Costa Rica Great Escape
JUAN SANTAMARIA Cultural Museum
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DINING GUIDE HOWLER
Happy
Holidays!
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HISTORY OF THE OX CART Cultural Heritage
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19 Dining Guide 21 - La Cave - Tamarindo / Langosta 21 - El Barco Del Capitan - Tamarindo / Langosta 22 - La Playita Restaurante - Huacas 22 - New Yor Pizzeria - Huacas 22 - Black Stallion - Villarreal 23 - The Great Waltini's - Bula Bula - Palm Beach 24 - Lucy's Retired Surfers Bar & Restaurant - Brasilito 25 - Nasu Restauran - Surfside / Potrero
DIEGO FOURNIER Spotlight
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25 - The Beach House - Surfside / Potrero 26 - Sentido Norte - Las Catalinas 27 - Vaca Loka - Flamingo 27 - Che Sirloin - Playas del Coco 27 - Coconutz Bar & Grill - Playas del Coco
Read all current and past articles online
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ACE FEATURE
ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT
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by Mónica Barrios Jerez
Holy Days, or “días de los Santos,” are taken seriously but in the most festivespirited sense. | #searchfindhowl| online
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s a Costa Rican who loves this small, beautiful paradise, I feel absolutely blessed that my birthplace is so rich in nature, culture, customs and folklore. It’s a proud heritage, nurtured by humble people committed to keeping alive the abundance of time-honored traditions for future generations. When it comes to celebrating the yearend holidays, or “fiestas de fin de año”, there are so many uniquely Costa Rican flavors and flourishes that make the experience truly special. With a predominantly Roman Catholic population, it’s a country where holy days, or “día de los Santos,” are taken seriously but in the most festive-spirited sense. In
fact, “fiestas” have a symbolically religious significance, bringing families together from all different parts of the country to celebrate Christmas and New Year’s. Other reasons to celebrate are the end of the school year and vacations being around the corner for both private and public sectors. The delicious smell of tamales can be found wafting from almost every corner of the country. These are not just any tamales, but the traditional Tico version of a corn flour tortilla filled with stew ingredients — likely from a treasured family recipe — and wrapped in banana leaves. Tamales are a must-have taste treat, synonymous with Christmas in Costa Rica.
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Must-Do Activities in San José Festival de la Luz Dec. 15 at 6 p.m.
Happy Holidays in San José
In its 23rd year, San José’s “Festival de la Luz” (Festival of Lights) is unlike any other celebration in Costa Rica, attracting over a million spectators annually. Each year features a different theme with a parade of floats, masquerade dancers, typical Costa Rican bands and dancers and fireworks. This festival is associated with the capital city’s year-end festivities. It all starts at 6 p.m. with fireworks from the roofs of the tallest city buildings. The parade can be viewed anywhere along its two-mile (3.2 kilometer) route, starting from the Gimnacio Nacional and entering Paseo Colón to reach Plaza de la Democrácia. More information: www.festivaldelaluz.cr
Zapote
Dec. 25 – Jan. 3
High season, starting in November, is so-named for the upsurge in national and international tourists. An obvious draw is the transition to the drier and sunnier weather in December and summer’s onset in January. But what better time for Costa Rican vacation plans to include joining in the local holiday festivities? San José, translated as “Saint Joseph” and named in honor of Joseph of Nazareth, is Costa Rica’s capital and largest city. As the biggest population hub, it is where most holiday events, concerts and fiestas take place. The museums, schools, universities, art galleries, water parks and multi-cultural attractions, as well as colonial infrastructure, set San José apart as the ideal vacation spot for adults and children alike.
Museo de Los Niños facade. Photo: Jose Gerardo Suares Monge
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This end-of-year celebration, also known as a mega-fest, takes place in the eastern San José district of Zapote. Lasting 10 days, a variety of activities are offered for all tastes and ages — a little bit of everything. That includes the famed Tico-style bull riding in the “Redondel” (bullring). Attendees can also enjoy dozens of rides, parades, national and international concerts, megabars and nightly fireworks. Your appetite can be satisfied in many delicious ways, from fast food to traditional Costa Rican carnival food. Christmas and New Year’s Eve feature even bigger celebrations in Campo Ferial Zapote, accompanied by music, food and of course, plenty of fireworks. More information: www.fiestaszapote.com Photos: Gilberto Luna
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Tope Nacional Dec. 26 at noon
Topes are parades showcasing beautiful horses, horsemanship and cowboy outfits. San José’s “Tope Nacional” is one of the largest and most spectacular events of its kind, hosting about five thousand riders and more than a million viewers. Horse owners and farmers from across the country come to the capital to show off their prized horses and riding skills. Since Costa Rica is rich in farming and ranching tradition, Tope Nacional has become a holiday tradition for many Ticos. It takes place in Avenida Segunda starting at noon with a parade of horsemen, masquerades and comparsas filling the streets with music and joy. If you want to be part of the fun, don't forget your cowboy hat, blue jeans and boots! More information: facebook.com/fiestassjo or detope.com
Photo: Gilberto Luna
Pedregal Bull Riding: “Toros a la Tica” Dec. 25 – 31
While the Zapote bullring remains the traditional bull riding venue, Pedregal’s “Toros a la Tica” has drawn its own following in recent years. The six-day event features a bull riding championship, rodeos, live music, food and more. Admission costs 8,000 colones ($16) for adults and 5,0000 colones ($10) for children. Centro de Eventos Predregal in Belén, west of San José. More information: facebook.com/TOROSalaTICAOficial
Fiestas de Palmares Jan.13 – 22
Celebrating the patron saint of Palmares, this fiesta includes horse parades, live music concerts, the “Festival Ranchero,” fireworks, mega-bars and much more. It all takes place in Palmares, Alajuela, which is quick and easy to access from San José city center. More information: facebook.com/FiestasPalmares2018 or acp@fiestaspalmares.com
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Iluminacion de la Fachada del Museo de los Niños Dec. 1 at 6:30 pm.
Every year on Dec.1, San Jose’s “Museo de los Niños” (Children´s Museum) facade is illuminated with a light show, accompanied by music and entertainment. This free event includes a video on the facade of the building, lighting of over 4,000 lights, dancers, actors and fantasy characters to delight the youngest at heart. Lining up Calle 4, at Centro Costarricense de Ciencia y la Cultura complex, will be a “safe zone” with activities for families starting at 1 p.m. that afternoon. More information: www.museocr.org or facebook.com/museodelosninoscr
Asociación Pro Hospital Nacional de Niños – Parque Diversiones This amusement park is sure to amuse everyone. Enjoy fun-filled times on roller coaster, water coaster and many other favorite thrilling rides, plus a train and arcade. Throughout December, the park will be decked out in Christmas decor and offering special seasonal activities, including live music and dances. Parque Diversiones is located in La Uruca, two kilometers west of Hospital Mexico, Avenida 59, San José. More information: www.parquediversiones.com
Teatro Nacional
Various December Dates
The National Theater fits prominently into the holiday traditions of many Costa Ricans wanting to enjoy a concert or dance performance in this spectacular venue before it closes for the year. Located in the heart of San José, Avenida 2, Calle 1, the country’s so-called “crown jewel” is featuring the following playbill lineup for 2018: 12th Annual End-of-Season Concert conducted by Carl St. Clair Dec. 2, 10:30 a.m. — 12:30 p.m. “Alicia en el País de las Maravillas” Dec. 7 — 16, various times A newly minted Costa Rican tradition is to watch this holiday take on the famous fairytale, Alice in Wonderland. The performance brings together the country’s best classical ballet, contemporary, urban and jazz dancers. Navidad Espectacular: "Los Tenores" Dec. 21 — 22 The renowned Costa Rican musical group of four talented singers performs traditional and pop holiday songs. More information: www.teatronacional.go.cr #s earchf indh owl
In the same Tico spirit of celebrating Christmas, every corner of San José, every house and every street will be beautifully decorated, as well as all the shopping centers and plazas. We make time in our schedules to take in all the sights and sounds of the season. Over the years, we have adopted different traditions from other countries, only to make them our own like drinking rompope, our version of eggnog. We merge them with the culture and traditions that define us as Costa Ricans but of course, without losing our own identity. Our essence is to be preserved and protected at the roots for coming generations to pass on in turn.
Spanish Terms Comparsa: a group of singers, musicians and dancers that take part in carnivals and other festivities in Spain and Latin America. Fiesta: Spanish for festival or party, including religious festivals in some traditional cultures. Masquerade: Event or activity where participants wear masks and costumes. HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 7
ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT Costa Rican style “bullfights,” as depicted here in 1935 at San José’s Plaza Viquez, have given way to bull riding as a popular spectator sport.
Holiday Traditions Never Get Tiresome
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by José Gerardo Suárez Monge and Howler Staff
CR HISTORY IN PHOTOS
ome things never change about Christmas, while others do over time. Either way, the year-end holidays in Costa Rica — “fiestas de fin de año” —are a blend of ever-evolving customs. Whether originating here or adopted from elsewhere with a Tico twist, all are integral to the country’s national identity. Past and present generations of locals have celebrated the season in a style distinctively their own. Visitors and newcomers who are unfamiliar should never miss the chance to discover the magic of Christmas in Costa Rica and experience it for themselves. The population’s predominantly Roman Catholic faith heritage is reflected in the larger number of annual holy days — “día de los Santos”— appearing on Costa Rican calendars compared with many other parts of the world. That religious symbolism retains a place in the mainstream culture of Christmas is not surprising, nor is the season’s relative importance as a
celebration-worthy holiday. None of this is to say that the sacred and secular elements are mutually exclusive in any way suggesting it’s a serious and solemn time of year. As noted in this Howler issue’s ACE cover story, “fiestas” have a symbolically religious significance, despite the widespread notion of being synonymous with “party time.” What Costa Rica’s yearend fiestas have in common with their counterparts almost universally is the coming together of families from near and far to have fun being festive. School and work vacations contribute to the upbeat spirit. From dazzling light displays and ornately decorated palm trees to the legacy of authentic Tico tamales and toasting friends with a cup of “rompope” (akin to eggnog), it’s a time for traditions that never grow tiresome. Modern innovations and practical or safety considerations might change some of the ways people celebrate, but never their intent or purpose.
A passion for historical photos
Photos are provided courtesy of José Gerardo Suárez Monge, author of “San José: 280 Years of History.” Suárez is a professional photographer and graphic designer with a degree in electrical engineering from the Tecnológico in Cartago, but his passion is collecting and analyzing historical photos — he has over 14,000. He has seven books for sale, which are available at Librería Lehmann and the University of Costa Rica bookstore, or by calling 7062-3086 or 8794-7679.
Past and present generations of locals have celebrated the season in a style distinctively their own.
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A snow-free (and sled-free) adaptation of toboggan sliding found its way to Costa Rica from the Northern Hemisphere at some point in history. This San José Plaza Viquez attraction is pictured in 1955.
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ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT
JUAN SANTAMARIA
HISTORICAL CULTURAL MUSEUM Discover a Heritage Like No Other
ACE MUSEUM
Photos courtesy of Juan Santamaria Historical Cultural Museum
by Howler Staff
The museum occupies the community’s old army barracks and prison buildings.
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istory buffs can explore endless facets of Costa Rica’s military, cultural and artistic heritage through ever-changing exhibits and events at this fascinating attraction near San José. The Juan Santamaría Historical Cultural Museum is an initiative of the Ministry of Culture and Youth. Located in the city of Alajuela, facing the north side of Central Park, the museum occupies the community’s old army barracks and prison buildings dating back to the 1870s. The museum’s historical themes reflect the Costa Rican state’s formation, from becoming an independent nation in 1821, to political and military conflicts three decades later. Highlights of the Central American War are showcased, along with the 1856-1857 Filibuster War, which Costa Ricans regard as their true war of independence. A permanent exhibit is devoted to those landmark events and the national heroes involved: Juan Santamaría — for whom the museum is named — as well as Juan Rafael Mora Porras, Francisca "Pancha" Carrasco and Nicolás Aguilar Murillo, among others. In addition, visitors can view temporary exhibitions of national and international artists. Rooms equipped for these loaned exhibits are on
the museum’s second floor. Guided educational tours are available upon request for students, government officials and groups as well as workshops for teachers. The museum also develops annual programs such as "On the Steps of Our Heroes," consisting of walks and visits to historic Filibuster War sites. The museum also features a wide range of cultural events, with concert band, theater and storytelling performances scheduled on a monthly calendar. Examples include the "Night of Stories", "Music in the Museum with the Concert Bands of Alajuela” and "Youth and Music." The museum is open to the public Tuesday to Sunday from 9:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Admission is free. For information: Museo Histórico Cultural Juan Santamaría Visit: www.museojuansantamaria.go.cr Phone: 2430-5778 / 2441-4775 Email: cultura@mhcjs.go.cr Facebook: Museo Histórico Cultural Juan Santamaría Costa Rica
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ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT
ACE CULTURAL HERITAGE
WHEELS TO THE WORLD Ox cart of bygone era a cultural treasure today by Ana Patricia Pacheco
The ox cart opened doors of progress to our ancestors.
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lthough its golden age in Costa Rica’s export trade history has long since faded, the ox cart remains one of the country’s most important ancestral legacies. As an unmistakable national symbol, it embodies the spirit of work and humility, as if inscribed in the soul of Costa Rican generations past, present and future. This sense of timelessness was brought to bear from a cultural heritage standpoint in relatively recent times. A desire to revitalize and preserve the traditional use of ox and carts in Costa Rica motivated a research study by Carmen Murillo, Cecilia Dobles and Giselle Chang to carry out an investigation. Sponsored by Costa Rica’s Ministry of Culture and Youth, and UNESCO (United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization), this project formed the country’s submission to occupy an exclusive global list of cultural heritage assets. On November 25, 2005, the combined tradition of “boyeo” (use of oxen) and “carreta” (cart) was declared by UNESCO as a "Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity."
The agricultural use of boyeos and carretas originated in colonial times. Ox carts provided a transportation vehicle for family members as well as export crops. In addition to tirelessly carrying loads of coffee beans to market, they provided an inseparable link between rural Costa Rica and the outside world. On return trips back home, the ox cart’s turning axles sang a melodious song the oxherd was proud of, carrying the promise of news and goods from overseas. Ox carts had a presence in the fervor of religious and festive celebrations, and also in political fervor. They figured into some of the most important moments of Costa Rican peasant family lives. The ox cart opened doors of progress to our ancestors. It built our homeland as a primordial tool in the construction of buildings, temples and villages, as well as the harvesting of crops. Its humanitarian service extended to the transportation of sick people. It was also a party to the secret rendezvous of amorous couples, sneaking around to hidden places. Ornately hand-painted ox carts are
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Ox carts were originally painted to depict family or finca (farm) ownership. Eventually, the owners took pride in the elaborate details of their carts and spent many hours adorning them.
universally recognized as an indelible hallmark of Costa Rica’s identity. Whether a tribute to the farm family’s affection, ancestry, location or social status, the practice of transforming plain wood into a canvas of dazzling colors, texture and light became part of the ox cart’s symbolic national destiny. The meticulous craftsmanship that makes each cart a uniquely expressive and beautiful work of art is celebrated and showcased in museum exhibits, parades and festivals throughout the country. After 1960, the mechanization of agriculture displaced ox carts to a significant extent. However, they can still be found, particularly in high valley
regions and steep lands where vast coffee plantations thrive, or in less developed, remote locations. But as functional uses of the ox cart have declined, efforts to raise awareness of its cultural significance have increased. In effect, this former mainstay of locomotion has been "folklorized." Even when long since replaced by modern engines, the ox cart still travels slowly along the roads. Aromas emanate not only of coffee, but also sugar cane and firewood. The ox cart is the early riser. It is the sun at noon, indefatigable by dusty or muddy roads or virgin mountain trails. It is the indissoluble association of oxen and oxherd.
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 13
ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT
CHEPE CLETAS Stroll, Cycle, See, Learn and Enjoy Your Way
ACE URBANTOURISM
C
hepe Cletas was created in 2010 for the main purpose of enhancing perceptions of San José. Other goals were to promote the use and appreciation of public spaces and transportation alternatives to the automobile. The three founding members were a civil engineer, an industrial engineer and a biologist. The name translates to “Chepe” — a popular or slang reference to San José (along the lines of “Joe”) — and “Cletas,” meaning bicycle, or more commonly bike. However, our activities have never been restricted to cycling. Initially, we offered historical walks and bike tours, both at night. Eight years later, we continue hosting both walking and cycling tours to the public on a regular basis. Wednesday evenings, we take a bike ride through different areas of San José, starting at 7 p.m. at Spain Park. The tour is free; you just need to bring a bike. Almost every Sunday, our historical tours on foot start at 10 a.m. from Morazán Park. The themes vary, including historic neighborhoods, specialty coffee, expresidents, urban art, bakeries, canteens and lots more. It costs 5,000 colones per person to participate, with no charge for children. Additionally, we carry out private tours for groups, companies, tour operators and educational institutions, both on foot and by bicycle, in English and Spanish. In these instances, we adapt to the date, time, preferences and needs of each group. The cost depends on group size. These private tours have been very well received by a wide range of businesses, municipalities, embassies, universities (national and international), schools, colleges and other institutions. What all our tours have in common is the historical aspect. We enjoy sharing information about the history of our city, but especially certain curious facts that may surprise people. For example, San José was the third city in the world to have electric lighting. One of our most requested tours takes a historical
by Roberto Guzman Fernandez
journey of coffee and markets. We visit the Bourbon and Central markets, walking through several historically important spaces between Morazán Park and Central Avenue. Tour participants stop at a specialty coffee shop where the barista gives a short talk, followed by an opportunity to taste some specialty coffee. This tour lasts about two hours. Another tour includes stops at three traditional canteens in San José, where participants can sample liquor produced at the FANAL, Costa Rica’s national distillery. Other historic sites are visited along the way during this three-hour tour. Chepe Cletas also offers a two-hour bicycle tour through different historical neighborhoods of San José. Suitable for people in any physical condition, it includes a guide, bicycle and helmet. One of our tours integrates nature with the history of San José, with a visit to a butterfly garden and a small regenerated forest along the Torres River banks. The cost for these tours depends on the number of participants. The larger the group the lower the cost, ranging between $15 and $40 per person and also depending on the route. When asked to name the top three most iconic places to visit in San José, I find it impossible. Some of my favorites include Mercado Central (Central Market) and these parks: Morazán, Jardín de Paz, España and Nacional. The National Theater, Barrio Amón and Barrio Otoya are highlights too, as well as the urban art in the surrounding area of the Legislative Assembly building and Barrio La California.
What all our tours have in common is the historical aspect.
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For information: Whatsapp: 8849-8316 Email: info@chepecletas.com Social media: ChepeCletasCR Visit: chepecletas.com
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Photos courtesy of Chepe Cletas
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ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT
DIEGO FOURNIER Expressing magic in the world
Photos: Albaro Arrollo & David Vega
ACE SPOTLIGHT
Mural located at Avenue 1 San José, at the Paguemenos storetheir carts.
by Howler Staff
“It was that boy coloring outside the lines, anxious to explore through drawings in the notebook he always carried.”
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D
iego Fournier is a prolific Costa Rican illustrator and storyteller, raised in a family of musicians and artists. His own artistic studies began when he was just 7 years old at the Conservatorio de Castella. After graduating from its painting program, Fournier pursued professional studies in graphic design and engraving at the University of Costa Rica. The scope and diversity of his internationally acclaimed work encompasses many interdisciplinary spheres of illustration, including animation, video games, paintings, murals, posters and self-published children’s stories and artist’s books. Pencil Ilustradores, the Spain-based agency representing his work, lauds Fournier’s talents in demonstrating that “brevity is a friend of perfection” when it comes to effectively expressing visual ideas in simple, playful and concrete ways. The agency’s web profile for the artist reflects on his roots: “It was that boy coloring outside the lines, anxious to explore through drawings in the notebook he always carried … a window of the world he perceives. Pages full of abrupt gestures, overlapping lines, images that go beyond the limits, a deep study of the color.” Fournier’s achievements have been widely recognized in a variety of competitions, exhibits and educational events since the start of his career. In 2010, he took second prize in the Best Latin American Illustrations exhibit in Argentina, and soon after, his video game entry won recognition in the digital art exhibition “Inquieta Imagen.” As a selected participant in the 2012 project "From my neighborhood
to your neighborhood," he painted a mural on the facade of San Jose’s legislative assembly building and his work was shown in a subsequent art exhibition in Germany. The same year, Fournier took part in the artistic residency "Raptors: Traces and Gestures" in Nicaragua for emerging artists from the United States and Central America. Other highlights have included international design and poster events in Cuba, Bolivia and Mexico. In the latter country, he has twice collaborated with other artists in a Pueblo wall mural festival, most recently painting Faustthemed illustrations on a public library wall in the El Alto neighborhood. “We spent the evenings painting,” reads one of Fournier’s August 2018 blog entries. “We drew, we talked, we were a lot of painters from all over, sharing, to do something significant in a forgotten neighborhood. Wonderful this job of painting murals, that can take us to so many places.” Indeed, according to Pencil Ilustradores, Fournier dreams of painting the largest mural and when reaching it, he starts dreaming again for a bigger one. “Committed to his craft, he firmly believes that art is the best way to discover the magic in this world.”
Check out Diego Fournier online: diegofurnier diegofourniersoto diegofournier@gmail.com
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 17
ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT
ALL IN ON COSTA RICA THE GREAT ESCAPE Part 1
TTZ - TICO TIME ZONE
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Vintage photos of great summer times I spent with hometown friends, including buddy Dave (above), remind me why it was hard to leave Newport behind for good.
I knew I had to get fired, but in an intelligent way — one that left room for begging to get my job back. 18
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ugust 2018 marked the 20th anniversary of my first business opening in Costa Rica — Super Pura Vida (located where Indra Inn is now). No, not the “pura vida” expression but a minisupermarket name. The backstory is about getting myself fired from a job in Rhode Island that was too good to quit. It was this awesome summer bartending gig at The Landing, in my hometown of Newport, that had enabled me to spend every winter since 1995 living and surfing in Costa Rica. It was great work and easy money, part of a strategy that had served me well for several seasons. I’d stay in my buddy's attic loft and save money for the coming winter. But the time came when I needed to pull the chute and bail out of the U.S. full-time for good. I promised myself that 1997 would be my last summer bartending, before buckling down and putting down permanent roots in Costa Rica. I was already well on my way to living the dream, with a purchase deposit on a Playa Grande lot and even an investor to back my construction plans for a supermarket and six cabinas. Anyone who knows me also knows one of my favorite sayings: "Somebody has to live here, so it might as well be me!” Quitting my job in Rhody was easier said than done. The Landing closed every September and reopened on Memorial Day, so it was a seasonal job and I never lost seniority. When push came to shove, I just could not bring myself to leave such a gravy job voluntarily. I knew I had to get fired, but in an intelligent way — one that left room for begging to get rehired if things went sideways in Costa Rica. As it turned out, the surf and technology gods both ensured that my departure swan song in the summer of 1997 was perfectly orchestrated, but
by Johnny Lahoud
with no intelligence on my part being a factor. First came the gift of Hurricane Felicia, a storm for all the ages. It formed off Puerto Rico and hit category 4 churning towards Cape Hatteras. Then once the swell reached 200 miles south of Nantucket, she just stalled and wobbled around off New Jersey for eight days. To quote an oldtimer at the time, “This shit just don't happen, man!" Felicia’s escape was blocked by 10 to 15 mph offshore breezes, and insanity followed. I was surfing the best swell ever during the day and still making $300 bartending at night. I was also barely sleeping and knew something had to give. After 13 solid days of surfing and working, we wanted to throw a clambake and keg party, as the storm was finally pulling away and the next front approaching. So I, the genius, decided to call in sick … from my buddy Dave's house. What I overlooked was that call waiting and caller ID had just been invented and many telephones were equipped with these up-to-date features. So when my lovely boss, Peggy Jane, noticed the message I had left on her answering machine was from Dave's house, she called back and told me not to bother coming in to work ever again! So my perfect ending to this perfect summer job turned out to be a telephone breakup. I even sent my buddy to collect my final paycheck, figuring I might still try begging for forgiveness after coming to my senses and realizing it was Felicia who had left me! In any case, my hand was forced and my path started to where I am now in Puravidaville. It wasn't easy cutting ties with all my friends and family and finally making a serious commitment to Costa Rica. Stay tuned for my story of how fun it was to be a first-time builder here in the 1990s.
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HOWLER
DINING GUIDE
Happy
! s y a d Holi
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Hours Daily, noon to 9:30pm Mon, 7-9pm, Live Marimba Wed, 7-9pm, Avellino Fri, 7-9pm, Live Marimba Phone: 2653-0075 restaurante @hotelcapitansuizo.com Specialties Healthy dishes made from scratch with local and fresh products All taxes included in price
La Cave Playa Langosta in front of Cala Luna entrance Hours Daily, 5:30pm to 10:30pm
El Barco Del Capitán: European-Tico Fusion, Beachfront Restaurant El Barco del Capitán is nestled in a beautiful tropical garden within the Hotel Capitán Suizo and offers a modern, healthy and fresh cuisine. Our chef, Jujo Molina, has created the dishes inspired by his European heritage and the incredible products available in Costa Rica. Using our homegrown ingredients from our organic garden, we strive to offer an environmental friendly menu and an authentic experience to our guests.
MENU SELECTIONS Tacos Carne (Lunch)
$15
Tartar Capitan (Dinner)
$13
The Veggie (Lunch)
$15
Linguini (Dinner)
$23
Lomito (Dinner)
$28
Beef, tortillas with mixed cabbage salad, guacamole and tamarindo sauce Grilled portobello, tomato, zucchini, chilealmonds-garlic sauce, homemade bun
Calamares Crujientes (Snack) $13
Crispy calamari with homemade green pesto and a honey, red onion escabèche.
Tuna and mango tartar with capers and a cilantro, ginger and soy dressing
Calamari, jumbo shrimps, mussels, Spanish chorizo, cherry tomatoes, white wine 200gr of tenderloin with a tamarind sauce over Swiss Roësti and vegetables
La Cave: Traditional French Cuisine Grill - Seafood France on our plates but served with Costa Rican smiles. French food including seafood, meat, salads and more. We are located near the beach, with outdoor and indoor tables, 10 signature cocktails and our house specialty. We also have a nice variety of wines.
MENU SELECTIONS Phone: 6281-8200 Specialties Premium meats and fresh seafood
Bisque de Langouste Lobster cream soup
Steak Tartare de Boeuf
$6 $22
Beef tenderloin with green pepper, fresh mushroom or red wine sauce
Filet de Porc a l'Estragon $18 Pork filet with tarragon
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Crevettes Jumbo au Gril
$16
Pave de Saumon Grille
$18
Bouillabaisse D'ICI
$26
Jumbo shrimp with garlic butter au grill
Fresh grilled salmon with garlic and parsley butter sauce Fish and seafood cooked in fish soup, Marseille style
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TAMARINDO / LANGOSTA
Hotel Capitán Suizo, Playa Tamarindo
TAMARINDO / LANGOSTA
DINING GUIDE
DINING GUIDE
HUACAS 3km south of Huacas, road to Tamarindo Hours Daily, 7am-9pm Breakfast 7am-10am
La Playita: Poolside Dining Located at the Seis Playas Hotel, La Playita restaurant and bar is open to hotel guests and the public, and is known for its friendly and inviting environment. It is the ideal setting for sharing good food and drinks with family and friends, or a romantic dinner poolside while enjoying the convenient distance to our six local beaches.
MENU SELECTIONS
Specialties Food cooked to your taste — con mucho gusto Friday Night Texas Barbecue
Broken Yolk Sandwich
$12
Pasta
Breakfast Quesadilla
$12
Open Grill
BLT La Playita
$10
Pineapple FlambĂŠ
Fried egg, bacon or ham and cheese on toast, served with seasonal fruit Eggs, tomato, onion, sweet pepper and cheese, served with seasonal fruit
HUACAS
New York Pizzeria
Pizzeria
New York Pizzeria is your go-to pizza spot in Guanacaste, for an authentic New York style pizza or calzone. Dine-in or take-out available. Enjoy!
Specialties Authentic New York style pizza and calzones. Freshly made breadsticks.
MENU SELECTIONS
From $16
Pork tenderloin, chicken breast, ribeye, New York strip, beef tenderloin & catch of the day
Always a favorite for a light bite to eat: bacon, lettuce and tomato
200m west of the Brasilito/ Huacas crossroads, Huacas www.nypizzeriahuacas.com @nypizzeriahuacas Hours Tues-Sun 3pm-11pm Closed Monday Phone: 2653-6296
$14
Build your own pasta bowl, with a mixed salad
$4
Our most popular dessert served hot with vanilla ice cream
An 8 min. drive from Tamarindo, 2km south Villarreal
Black Stallion
Rustic Outdoor BBQ
Hours By reservation Phone: 8869-9765 Specialties Zipline and BBQ buffet for only $85. Available for private parties and events.
Dine with the stars of Guanacaste on a private ranch. Enjoy a delicious BBQ buffet with sides. Wine, beer and sangria included! Call for reservations. Available for private parties and events.
MENU SELECTIONS
Meat Lover's Pizza
Mixed BBQ Buffet
$45
House Special Pizza
Seafood Buffet
$45
Pepperoni, ham, salami, bacon, and ground beef.
Pepperoni, ham, mushrooms, onions, and sweet peppers.
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Baby back ribs, chorizo and chicken, sides included A delicious array of seafood and sides dishes
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VILLARREAL
Phone: 2653-6818 info@seisplayashotel.com
PALM BEACH
DINING GUIDE
Palm Beach, next to the estuary Hours Breakfast available all day long: 7:30am-2:30pm Lunch: 11am-3pm Dinner: 5:30pm-9pm Phone: 2653-0975 frontdesk@hotelbulabula.com Specialties
Daily:
The Great Waltini's - Bula Bula: American Fusion Cuisine
Sunset happy hour 50% off appetizers 4-6pm
Monday:
Mexican all you care to eat buffet 5:30-8:30
Wednesday:
Italian All you care to eat buffet 5:30-8:30
Specialty coffees and espresso
Enjoy casual fine dining and experience “a fusion of the Americas” in a tranquil and inviting setting. At the Great Waltini’s, you can enjoy a sumptuous meal in an attractive dining area or choose to sit under the stars and enjoy your meal on the garden patio. Choose from houseaged steaks, seafood dishes, and down-home fare. Top with cocktails and desserts — the complete experience. Located in beautiful Palm Beach Estates next to the estuary. We are easily accessible from Tamarindo via boat taxi (complimentary with dinner reservations). Pickup time are 5, 5:30 and 6 pm. Please call before 2pm to reserve boat taxi (2653-0975). Happy hour – includes domestic beer, well drinks, famous giant Bula margaritas and appetizer specials.
MENU SELECTIONS Ahi Tuna
Annie's Salad
Double Cut Pork Chop
Hand Carved Turkey
Blackened Shrimp Salad
Aged Filet Mignon
Mahi-Mahi
Baked Lasagna
St. Louis Style Pork Ribs
Mixed Seafood Combo
Aged New York Steak
8 oz filet prepared tropical, blackened, sautéed or fried Oven roasted turkey, mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce and house made gravy 8 oz filet prepared tropical, blackened, sautéed or fried Tuna, mahi-mahi, jumbo shrimp, calamari, and mussels in a white wine saffron sauce
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Blackened chicken breast with avocado over crisp greens and fresh vegetables Blackened jumbo shrimp, sliced avocado over fresh lettuce and fresh vegetables Italian sausage, beef and pork, tomato, ricotta, mozzarella and romano cheese
10 oz cut prepared charbroiled, blackened or au poivre in brandy cream sauce 10 oz cut prepared charbroiled, blackened or au poivre in brandy cream sauce Baked tender and served with our famous tropical Bula Bula BBQ sauce
10 oz cut prepared charbroiled, blackened or au poivre in brandy cream sauce
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DINING GUIDE
BRASILITO
Main corner, Brasilito Hours Mon-Fri, 11am-midnight Sat-Sun, 10am-midnight Phone: +506 4702-0826 costarica@ lucysretiredsurfers.com LucysCostaRica Specialties Only for the brave: Our infamous scorpion shot
Lucy’s Retired Surfers Bar & Restaurant: Coastal Cuisine Beachfront restaurant and bar serving unique coastal fusion dishes and cocktails featuring the freshest ingredients in Guanacaste! Lucy’s is more than just a restaurant, it’s a lifestyle. With locations in some of the most tubular spots around the world (New Orleans, Key West, Costa Rica and Aruba), we know how to have a good time. Let the sea breeze and sound of the waves remind you that when you’re here you’re always on vacation. At Lucy’s we’re serious about our grub – we’ve got all your classic favorites like burgers and nachos, as well as our signature coastal bites with a touch of Pacific flair. Our one-of-a-kind drinks are the perfect way to cool down after a long day at the beach, and we keep them flowing all day (and night!) long. Lucy's’ daily food & drink specials are boat-to-table and will give you something new to try every day, and with live music, a radical bar scene, and six large-screen TVs, Lucy’s is Guanacaste's hottest new bar and restaurant!
MENU SELECTIONS Shaka Ceviche
c5,500
The Juicy Lucy
Avocado Fritas
c5,500
Bacon Brie Chicken Sandwich
Cheese Quesadilla
c5,000
Tsunami Tuna Salad
Serious Nachos
c6,700
Blackened Fish Tacos c6,000
Delicious fresh local fish and shrimp in a citrus marinade topped with avocado
Beer-battered avocado slices served with black bean salsa and homemade ranch
Flour tortilla overflowing with melted cheese, served with pico and guacamole
Fully loaded nachos topped with beans, pico, sour cream, and our rockin’ guac
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c7,500
Our famous 8 oz. burger served on a brioche bun with Lucy’s special sauce
Grilled marinated chicken breast topped with bacon, brie, tomato, and spinach
c6,500
Freshly seared yellowfin served over spring mix with fresh fruit and feta
Blackened local fish topped with mangopineapple slaw and avocado crema
Pao Pao Shrimp Tacos c6,500 Fried or grilled shrimp tossed in a sassy pao pao sauce, topped with cabbage slaw
Flank Steak Tacos
c6,500
Marinated flank steak topped with jalapeño chimichurri and queso fresco
Whole Red Snapper Casado c8,000 Served with island rice, black beans, and a side salad
N’awlins Surf n’ Turf c10,000 Marinated flank steak served with head-on Cajun BBQ shrimp and roasted potatoes
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Nasu: Creative Tropical Cuisine Welcome to Nasu Restaurant, tropical creative cuisine. Join us oceanside, where the freshest catch is prepared every day by our acclaimed chef. Enjoy the culinary treasures of Costa Rica, where tradition and innovation meet.
Hours Daily, 6:30am-9:30pm
MENU SELECTIONS
Phone: 2654-4671, 2654-5340
Panzanella Salad
$13
Antipasto di mare
$24
Lettuce, cucumber, cherry tomatoes, artisan bread, jumbo shrimp in vinaigrette
Specialties Fresh seafood and pasta
For two: octopus, crab, shrimp, clams, salmon, sea bass, tuna with vegetables
Mediterranean Snack
$14
For two: falafel, tzatziki, tomato pesto, baba ghanoush, feta cheese, pita bread
Potrero, 800m north of Banco Nacional Hours Daily, 11am -10pm Kitchen closes 9pm
$14
Grilled Tenderloin
$24
Roasted potatoes, grilled vegetables and a mushroom sauce
Chicken Parmigiana
$12
Lightly breaded chicken, cherry tomatoes, arugula, Parmesan crisps, lime dressed
The Beach House: Beachfront Dining Private residence on the beach transformed into a quaint restaurant and bar, renowned for its fresh seafood. Come and enjoy incredible food and awesome sunsets and views of the Pacific Ocean.
MENU SELECTIONS
Phone: 2654-6203 Specialties Fresh seafood Epic sunset view
Ravioli della nonna
Homemade ravioli stuffed with lobster and mashed cauliflower, bathed in a champagne sauce with capers and tomatoes
Grilled Scallops
c5000
Onion Rings
c3500
Catch of the Day
c9000
Jambalaya
c7500
Pesto Tuna Sandwich
c7000
Grilled in a bath of Cacique liquor, lime and garlic With tropical salsa, grilled vegetables & potatoes or rice
Angus Tenderloin
c11000
Grilled to perfection with vegetables & rosemary potatoes
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Thick-cut battered with a subtle blend of spices, served with garlic mayo and rosada sauce
Sausage, shrimp & chicken with onions, tomatoes & peppers in Cajun sauce over rice or linguini Pesto seared tuna on fresh bread served with lettuce, tomato & pesto aioli
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SURFSIDE / POTRERO
1 km east of the Banco Nacional in Flamingo
SURFSIDE / POTRERO
DINING GUIDE
DINING GUIDE
LAS CATALINAS
At Casa Chameleon, 4km north of the Potrero soccer field Hours Daily, 7am-10pm No children under 12 years Phone: 2103-1200 concierge@ casachameleonhotels.com Specialties Fresh fish, sunset cocktails, "boquitas" menu
Sentido Norte: Fine Dining Sentido Norte, a restaurant and bar at Casa Chameleon, proudly offers an adult fine-dining experience that celebrates the best of Costa Rican cuisine. Your drive through winding roads above the quaint beach town of Las Catalinas is rewarded by an unforgettable but affordable taste of luxury. Just a few steps uphill from the bright and welcoming entrance, your table awaits in a gorgeous, open-air perch framed by a panoramic view of the Pacific. A design motif incorporating responsibly sourced teak adds a sense of warmth and well-being to the romantically lit atmosphere. All food and drinks are inspired by the country’s bountiful abundance, combining uniquely local and native ingredients in the glass and on the plate.
MENU SELECTIONS Overnight Oats
$18
Casa Chameleon Burger
French Toast
$12
Ceviche $14
Knife & Fork Tortillas
$14
With almond milk, yogurt, fruit, cashews, local honey or tapa dulce
With sweet plantains and coconut milk cream
$19
Angus burger with arugula, Swiss or goat cheese and aioli Fresh fish ceviche, leche de tigre, homemade "chilero"
Grilled Chicken Wrap
$12
ChicharrĂłn or vegan huevos rancheros
Vegan Omelettes
Vegan Bowl
$6
$10
Octopus & Mussels
$29
Grilled Skirt Steak
$30
Fresh Tuna Poke
$24
Hearts of palm ceviche, avocado & tomato
Octopus and mussels wok-sauteed in garlic butter and white wine
With greens, avocado & tomato, spicy aioli
With asparagus, mushrooms and caramelized onion
Guacamole and Salsa
$19
Quinoa, mushroom and squash picadillo salad, spicy garbanzo beans
Skirt steak, chimichurri sauce, salad, french fries
Raw tuna, mango, avocado
Prices shown include 13% tax and 10% service / Prices subject to change
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Hours Daily, 5:30pm-10:30pm Closed Wednesday Phone: 8532-8613
Vaca Loka
Italian Restaurant True Italian cuisine. Pasta like you are in Roma! Fresh bruschetta served when you arrive. Buon appetito!
Specialties Pizza, pasta, meat, fish
Che Sirloin Steak House & Grill
Pueblito Sur #10, Las Palmas, Che Sirloin Steak House & Grill Playas del Coco is a meat lover’s heaven. Located steps from the beach in a tranquil Hours garden setting with indoor and Lunch/Dinner outdoor seating. 11:00-14:30 and 17:00-21:00 Closed Wednesday Specialties Prime Cut Steaks, Gourmet Phone: 8467-7664 Hamburgers, Brunch chesirloin@gmail.com
MENU SELECTIONS House Lasagna
MENU SELECTIONS c6.500
Ribeye c6.500
Ribeye Steak
Served with salad or french fries
Animal Burger With chorizo, grilled pineapple, fried egg & bacon
Homemade Cheesecake With dulce de leche
Avenida Central, across from El Coco Casino, Playas del Coco Hours Mon-Thu, 11am till late Fri-Sun, 9am till late Phone: 2670-1982 pete@coconutzbar.com Specialties Smoked BBQ Microbrewery Gourmet bar bites Sports bar Live music Private parties
COCONUTZ BAR & GRILL: Sports Bar Coconutz is your neighborhood sports bar and microbrewery in an exotic tropical setting, complete with gorgeous local hardwood, trees growing through the floor, license plates from all over the world, surfboards hanging from the rooftop, and of course ... our famous swing set! We feature the best tropical drink selection in the area, as well as our on-premise brewed Angry Goats beers on tap. Come visit the premier sports bar in Playas Del Coco.
MENU SELECTIONS Porky Piñas
Walking Taco
Smokey Shrimp Poppers
Chicken & Waffle Burger
Memphis Ribs
Al Pastor Pizza
Pineapple bites wrapped in bacon, topped with teriyaki and sesame seeds Fresh jumbo shrimp, sliced jalapeño and cream cheese, wrapped in bacon and smoked Half rack or whole rack, with choice of two sides
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Shredded chicken or beef, cheese, lettuce, pico de gallo, sour cream, fried tostada, grilled in tortilla Buttermilk fried chicken with waffle bun, American cheese, heat and sweet sauce Adobe smoked pork, pineapple salsa, local fresh cheese, house mole sauce
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PLAYAS DEL COCO
FLAMINGO
Flamingo - 100m south of road to Potrero
PLAYAS DEL COCO
DINING GUIDE
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