HOWLER magazine
o d n i r a m Ta act Abstr
MARCH 2019
C osta R i c a Li fest yle, T ravel & A dve nture since 1996
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EDITORIAL
Quality Print is Alive
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The Howler voice is to inform readers and bring Costa Rica to life in a way that makes it not only seem magical but also be a trusted source of solid, credible, current and relevant information.
owler has spent lots of time over the past couple of years refining our publication with top-shelf writers and designers, making our publication one that is sought out as well as kept, taken home and shared. The support of our advertising community, and our writers and photography partners has been instrumental in propelling us. In addition to our distribution in Coco, Arenal and the Gold Coast, we recently entered into the San José and Jacó areas as well. Our ever-expanding coverage of Costa Rica conveys that all of Costa Rica makes this country desirable to visit, live and invest in. We have created and forged ahead with our publication, despite rumors from some people that print is dead. Those of you that are reading this from a hard copy of Howler can answer this question: is print dead? Obviously, if the magazine is in your hands and you turned to this page you have just brought our publication to life. In this day and age of technology, with so many of us facing a computer screen, phone or tablet all day long, it is sometimes refreshing to rest your eyes and hold something tangible in your hands. So many people pick up a fresh copy from the stand and feel the quality with their fingers. Many of them smell it! I laughed when I first observed this. But it’s no secret that people have always just loved the smell of fresh ink. And it's okay ... the ink used to print our magazine is environmentally friendly, as well as the paper. Something that makes me smile often
is hearing people say that they’ve kept all, or many, of the back issues of Howler. It’s gratifying to know our magazine has longevity and is not filling landfills like other throwaway publications with a short shelf life. Going back to our online screens, many people tend to assume every tourist is on social media and just trolling for information. On the contrary, I have found so many people who are totally unplugged here. They just want to take in what Costa Rica offers and recharge before going back to the grind of their regular life. We are completely embracing the technical advances on the web as well as social media. The howler monkey is the loudest voice in the forest, so rest assured we will be heard over many platforms moving forward. Our voice is to inform readers and bring Costa Rica to life in a way that makes it not only seem magical but also be a trusted source of solid, credible, current and relevant information. We maintain professional publication standards, writing on a level appropriate for our readers. I want to thank you first for picking up the Howler, and then again for spending time reading it, keeping it or passing it on for others to enjoy. We invite you to our website at www.howlermag.com and hope you enjoy looking through past articles and editions. We want you to “Search — Find — Howl” about visiting and living in Costa Rica … to us and those you know.
John B. Quam
HOWLER Read all current and past articles online
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HOWLER T r o o p
March 2019 Vol. 24 No. 3
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his month's cover art is a multi-medium painting by artist Maritsa Varvitsiote Lane. While conceptualizing a cover to accompany our features on Tamarindo, we thought it represented our interpretation of Tamarindo: colorful, abstract, wild and free. Thank you Maritsa for sharing your artwork with us. Maritsa Varvitsiotes Lane. Born and raised in Brooklyn, NY, Maritsa and her husband, John, moved to Costa Rica in 2011. Two years ago Maritsa attended an intuitive art class at Spark Gallery as a novice painter and hasn't stopped painting since. She is an abstract artist using acrylic as her primary medium. She recently started offering select works for sale and is gaining attention from some prominent collectors.
WRITERS
PUBLISHER / EDITOR-in-CHIEF John B. Quam BUSINESS DEVELOpmENT Martin Svoboda - Managing Partner John D. Lane - Director of Business Development C r e at i v e D i r e c t o r Martin Svoboda E d i t o r i a l S ta f f Nicole Rangel - Managing Editor Debbie Bride - Copy Editor Marian Paniagua - Creative Director Pura Vida and ACE departments Graphic Design Team M. Alauddin - Print Specialist
Ellen Zoe Golden. Former entertainment biz PR flack, now living the dream as a travel agent and journalist in Tamarindo.
Marian Paniagua. Certified nurse and yoga Instructor, and local artisan, born and raised in Guanacaste. 8914-0199. marianpaniagua@gmail.com
Cover Designs Front Cover: Painting photographed by Paul German
Fabricio Riggioni. Investment Consultant at NATIVU. 8301-0663. fabricio@nativu.com
Nicole Rangel. Managing Editor of Howler and freelance writer and editor. Making memories forever with her family. nicole.rangel@gmail.com
O p e r at i o n s Naza Davila Nikki Durling
Fred Denton. Entrepreneur and business growth advisor. Gilberth Cavallini. Veterinary Doctor, owner Cavallini Veterinary Services, Villarreal (MegaSuper Plaza). tamarindovet@gmail.com Herbert Weinman, MD, MBA. thedoctorisinsharkfm@gmail.com
Patricia Sterman. Argentinian fashion design graduate, living in Costa Rica for 20 years. Owner of Azul Profundo Boutique, jewelry manufacturer and co-founder of SalveMonos animal protection group.
Ivan Granados. Managing Partner at GM Attorneys. He specializes in real estate and corporate law. igranados@gmattorneyscr.com
Rachel Cherry White. Chases the sun from Michigan to Costa Rica with her four children and husband. She is a contributor to Fodor’s Guide to Costa Rica, Michigan HOME & Lifestyle and online. She is working on a novel.
Jenn Parker. An avid writer, traveler, and nature lover on a mission to surf the earth and share her stories. crjennparker@gmail.com
Stephanie Hiltz. Owner and instructor of Tamarindo AquaFit Yoga. Toronto mom of two, living for the now, and avid foodie. hiltz.steph@gmail.com
Jessie Rowan. Multimedia journalist and photographer originally from California. Former Pulitzer Center on Crisis Reporting grantee and global health reporter. jessierowan2929@gmail.com
Sylvia Barreto Benites. Owner of Spanish for Expats, a tutoring and translation service. spanishforexpats23@gmail.com
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Jim Parisi. Former owner of Jaime Peligro Bookstore, now called "Bookstore of the Waves". Tamarindo resident for 16 years. jaimepeligro123@hotmail.com Johnny Lahoud. Owner/broker of Pura Vida Realty, Playa Grande. Lover of Costa Rica. pvrealty@gmail.com Laura Galvin. Founder of Nomad Design House. 6282-6635. info@nomaddesignhouse.com
Tasha Shauli. Owner and instructor of AquaFit Yoga. Yoga instructor and Reiki practitioner. Mother of two, world traveler and lover of good vibes. tasha.bodnarchuk@gmail.com Tatiana Vandruff. Principal LEED GA, at Grupo Pacifico Architects and Builders, sustainable design and construction for over 30 years. tvandruff@grupopacificocr.com Tom Knight. Writer living in the Tamarindo area. Tom Schultz. BS Biology and Geology, avid birder and nature photographer, retired software executive. tom@pananima.com
Photographer Contributors see page 39
Read all current and past articles online
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C o n ta c t
John Quam - Managing Partner headmonkey@howlermag.com Martin Svoboda - Managing Partner martin@howlermag.com Editor: editor@howlermag.com Advertising: ads@howlermag.com CR Office: (506) 4701-5942 US Office: (720) 507-7596 (leave message) Howler Magazine Costa Rica @thehowlermag @howlermagazine The Howler Gold Coast CR S.A. Ced. Juridica: 3-101-725213 The opinions, beliefs and viewpoints expressed by the various authors in this publication do not necessarily reflect the opinions, beliefs and viewpoints of Howler organization or its advertisers. Copyright Š 2019 by The Howler Gold Coast CR S.A. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission requests write to: info@howlermag.com. The Howler Magazine does not assume responsibility for the content of its advertisements. Images not credited are acquired from stock photography services.
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HOWLER
CO N T E N T S Tamarindo Vibes Cover Story
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4 Up Front 4 - Editorial 6 - Contributors and Howler Troop 10 - Community Services 12 - Cover Story: Tamarindo Vibes 16 - Tamarindo Pop Quiz
18 Travel, Adventure & Surfing CR
Poás Revisited Featured Park
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18 - Featured Park: Poás Revisited 22 - Cool Places: Playa Avellanas 26 - Creature Feature: Bush Dog 28 - Surfing CR: Surf Events 29 - Tide, Sun & Moon Chart 30 - Surf Profile: Andrea Diaz 32 - Surf Spot: Mal Pais 34 - Support CEPIA at International Surf Film Fest
36 ACE: Arts Culture Entertainment
Mal Pais Surf Spot
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36 - Urban Tourism: Calle de la Amargura 38 - Featured Museum: The Jade Museum 39 - Howler Photography Contributors 40 - Cultural Heritage: Military Makeovers 42 - Spotlight: Música Genial 44 - Tico Time Zone: All in On Costa Rica Part 3
46 CR Biz
46 - Feature: Limón Revitalized 50 - Entrepreneur CR: Product or Service Business? 52 - Doing Business Right: Preserving a Vital Resource 54 - Investment Chat: Purpose-Based Investing 56 - Investment Chat: Opportunity of the Month 58 - Building CR: Lighting Your Life 60 - LegalEase: Tighter Controls on Money Laundering
Limón Revitalized CR Biz Feature
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64 Directories
48 - Bookshelf: Panhandlers
49 Directories Flip Mini-Mags Dining Guide & Pura Vida: CR Living
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COMMUNITY SERVICES
FIRE UNIT
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EMBASSY CONTACT INFO UNITED STATES +506 2519-2000 CANADA +506 2242-4000 EUROPEAN UNION (EU) DELEGATION +506 2283-2959
POLICE & FIRST RESPONDERS
TOURIST POLICE
FLAMINGO +506 2654-5086 VILLARREAL +506 2244-6173 PLAYAS DEL COCO +506 2670-0258 SANTA CRUZ +506 2680-0136 LIBERIA +506 2665-0609 LA FORTUNA DE SAN CARLOS +506 2479-9689 NUEVO ARENAL +506 4001-6911
TILARAN +506 2695-5001
FIRE UNIT 1118 FILADELFIA +506 2688-8733 HUACAS FIRE STATION +506 2201-9079
AMBULANCE, HOSPITALS & MEDICAL CLINICS EMERGENCIAS 2000 +506 8930-2000 LIBERIA AMBULANCE
911
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TAMARINDO, FLAMINGO, POTRERO AMBULANCE
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CARTAGENA RED CROSS AMBULANCE
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POISON CENTER
+506 2223-1028
LIBERIA HOSPITAL
+506 2666-2300
CRUZ ROJA LIBERIA
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HOSPITAL SAN RAFAEL +506 2666-1717 ARCANGEL (PRIVATE) LIBERIA NICOYA HOSPITAL +506 2685-8400 SAN JOSE HOSPITAL +506 2257-7922 PLAYAS DEL COCO CLINIC +506 8808-8111 LIBERIA CLINIC +506 2665-3038 SANTA CRUZ CLINIC +506 2680-2222 HUACAS CLINIC +506 2653-9911
ALCOHOLICS ANONYMOUS TAMARINDO | Waves of Sobriety Mon / Thur • 5:30 pm | Wed / Sat • 10:30 am Behind the Tamarindo circle, through Pedro´s Surf Shop Ellen 2653-0897 / 8484-1360 ellenzoe@aol.com Suzanne 8507-5407 smchannell@hotmail.com AlAnon meeting Fri • 10:30am cherylthepsychic@yahoo.ca VILLARREAL (Español) |Vida Real Jose Chops 8720-1984
(CONCHAL) FLAMINGO / POTRERO | Beach Front Serenity Group SANTA CRUZ +506 2680-0090 Tue / Fri • 5:30 pm, Upstairs Costa Rica Sailing Center OIJ CONFIDENTIAL +800 800-0645 Craig 8699-0254 LIBERIA +506 2690-0128 +506 2690-0129 PLAYAS DEL COCO SANTA CRUZ +506 2681-4000 Monday / Wednesday / Friday • 6:00pm LA FORTUNA DE SAN CARLOS +506 2479-1553 Sardinal Beach TILARAN +506 2695-8475 Centro Plaza Sardinal(50 mts east from police), store N. 6. Max 8917-2222 or John 2672-1163 SAN JOSE +506 2295-3851
ACCIDENT REPORT & VEHICLE ASSISTANCE 800-800-8001 HIGHWAY PATROL 1117 10
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If you have updated or additional information for useful numbers, please contact editor@howlermag.com or +506 4701-5942 howlermag.com
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Reasons Not to Want it Any Other Way
COVER STORY
Tamarindo Vibes I And did I mention the sunsets? Ahhhhh …. the glorious sunsets. 12
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n the space of a few centurystraddling decades, Tamarindo has come into its own, while showing no signs of completely growing up any time soon. Hot spot popularity is something the community wears well and keeps taking in stride. As the genesis of Guanacaste’s ever-widening allure for traveling or putting down roots, Tamarindo morphed seemingly overnight from a littleknown fishing village into Costa Rica’s second largest (non-port) beach town, behind Jacó. Yet, it’s the kind of place that defies the usual size or status comparisons, defined by a vibe like no other. This very magazine had its modest beginnings in Tamarindo. What started as a one-page information sheet 24 years ago has evolved into a thriving and
robust magazine, much like the town itself. No matter how wide the Howler’s geographic scope of coverage and circulation keeps extending, we are no less proud of our Tamarindo roots and lasting connection. Tamarindo is not perfect, but more than compensates for any flaws with its laid-back, cool, authentic ambiance. Growth in Guanacaste has been explosive, and Tamarindo is the heart of it. It’s a perfect home base for the best of Costa Rica. Within a couple of hours, you can find adventure parks, canopy tours, volcanoes, hot springs, and pretty much anything Costa Rica has to offer. Tamarindo is a unique, vibrant, messy, beautiful town. We wouldn’t have it any other way.
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Photo: Tarek Adam Photo: Esteban Delgado
Photo: Tarek Adam
by Rachel Cherry White
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ometimes there is an essence to a place. Something so special that no matter how many splashy hotels are built along the beach, no matter how cluttered the main drag is with souvenir stores, no matter how tangled the traffic jams are during Semana Santa, the town transcends and people fall in love with it. While Tamarindo isn’t the sleepy little funky beach town it once was, the purity of the place has remained, making it a favorite for Ticos, expats and tourists alike. So what makes up this essence? Where does Tamarindo get those amazing vibes? Let us count the ways...
Community
Friday nights on the beachfront side of a restaurant, there are usually around 20 families gathering. Dozens of kids running, playing, giggling. Adults chatting, mixing, mingling. Two or three languages being spoken. Never have I seen a community so friendly, so accepting of everyone, so diverse, and so ready to make friends #s earchf indh owl
as Tamarindo. Wednesday is sale day at the supermarket, and every week I run into someone I know. Riding my bicycle down the street is tricky because I’m constantly taking my hand off the handlebar to wave to friends. It’s not just me; Costa Rica brings out the best in people, so maybe that kindness rubs off on us. The kids get in on the kinship too. There is theater, dance, sports, jujitsu, and every other activity a child could want to do.
Photo: Eduardo Gamboa
The Beach
When the average temperature hovers around 85°F all year round, you’re going to need a place to cool off. Be careful where you swim; there are some coral rocks that only show up during low tide but will rip you up if you crash into them. Tamarindo beach definitely has a chill-out factor but it is never dull. You can watch the surfers, swim, rent a chair with an umbrella, or stop by one of the many beach bars to sip on a mojito. Vendors will stop by with pipas (fresh cold coconuts they
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 13
Photo: Esteban Delgado
Photo: Tarek Adam
Photo: Kathleen Evans
cut open right there and you sip the juice) that they’ll add rum to for a few more dollars. You can even delight on Churchills (a Costa Rican take on snow cones) and fresh green mango drizzling with lime and chili or honey and candied sprinkles. And did I mention the sunsets? Ahhhhh …. the glorious sunsets.
Surfing
Photo: Rafa Sandoval
Some three decades after the classic surf flick "Endless Summer" was released in 1964, a film crew of surfers from that production and others arrived in Tamarindo to make the sequel. One of them, surf legend Robert August, felt so at home in what was then a sparsely populated, wellkept secret of a town that he stayed permanently. Since then, a growing number of wave lovers have flocked to Tamarindo in search of the perfect breaks. Both beginners and experts can find their sets here — and Robert August himself. The beach has sandy breaks for beginners and many places to get lessons. There are plenty of spots for more advanced surfers too. Que tuanis mae.
Restaurants Galore
Along the main drag, and sometimes hidden down a dirt road, you can find every type of cuisine, fresh flavors and culinary treasures in Tamarindo. You can get amazing salads and sandwiches for lunch or fresh-from-the-ocean sushi. There is feet-in-the-sand upscale dining on the beach or chill-out-in-flip-flops walk-up burger or taco joints. If you’re sick of seafood, grab some mouthwatering steaks, pizza or pasta. The point is, you’ll find your favorite.
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Photo courtesy of the Leatherbacks
Nightlife
There is something for everyone after sunset. In the mood for quiet cocktails on the beach, with maybe some fire dancers for entertainment? Tamarindo’s got you covered. Need to watch the big game? There’s a sports bar for that. There’s also salsa dancing, pool parties, DJ’s, karaoke, trivia, wine bars … you name it. If you can stay awake, you’re guaranteed a good time.
Shopping
For groceries, there’s a North American-style supermarket where you can find all the comforts of home and international favorites as well. There is also an organic market, lots of places for fresh fruit and veggies, and other, more Tico-style supers (grocery stores). If you’re in the market for more than just food, maybe you’d like a custom-made bathing suit. There are hand made bags and gorgeous clothes at multiple shops downtown. Souvenirs abound, but a word of caution - many break easily.
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Cool things to do
There’s no chance of being bored in Tamarindo. Saturdays, bike over to the Feria and pick up homebaked pastries, kombucha, your produce for the week, handmade jewelry, or pretty much anything else you might need. Thursday nights the town hosts a slightly more grown-up version, where you’ll find live music, cocktails and food trucks, plus a mélange of people selling art, jewelry, and other foods. Besides surfing, Tamarindo offers a variety of water activities like fishing, free diving, sunset catamaran tours and estuary tours. If yoga is your thing, the choices are boundless, from Hatha on the beach to aerial to yoga with bowls or chanting, you will find the om right for you.
Fun throughout the year
Throughout the year, Tamarindo features special events like the Art Wave art festival, and Ocaso, an underground music festival featuring house and techno music. There are fundraising galas for local charities, golf, and surf tournaments, and the list keeps growing. Different schools offer activities to the public like a winter festival or Halloween carnival. Speaking of Halloween, gather around the rotunda for the annual Trunk or Treat and take a frightening walk through a haunted van and bus. Stay after hours for a Halloween party like no other. New Year's Eve and Semana Santa brings the crowds, stages and vendors to the beach with fireworks and festivities all day long. The point is that Tamarindo has the right vibe for everyone.
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 15
brought electricity to 1 Coopeguanacaste Tamarindo in 1974. Before that, there simply wasn’t any.
rural aqueduct of Playa Tamarindo 2 The was constructed three years later, in
1977, through a combined effort by Instituto Costarricense de Acueductos y Alcantarillados (AyA) and Tamarindo residents. Before that, wells went dry and became salty before the start of a new rainy season. Water was at a premium, even more so back then.
“T TAMARINDO
Photo courtesy of Tamarindo Sportfishing
POP QUIZ by Jim Parisi
ouristy” might be most people’s swift, no-brainer response if Tamarindo” came up in a word association game. They might find it hard to believe how recently this description came to fit what is now one of Costa Rica’s most popular Pacific beach towns. In fact, it was barely a generation ago that Tamarindo was getting ready to make its mark on the map as such. The same goes for the surrounding Guanacaste province as a preferred destination for travelers. Tamarindo had been a fishing village for literally centuries, well before Guanacaste annexed itself to Costa Rica in 1824. That may be common knowledge for many local people living here. But for relative newcomers, visitors and others unaware, we offer these “modern” Tamarindo tidbits of history that may seem surprising.
lines did not arrive until 1996. 3 Telephone Then came payphones and people waiting in line to use them when in service, which was sporadic at best.
the early and mid-1970s, the Pan4 Into American Highway from the Nicaragua
border all the way to Puntarenas was merely a gravel road. The dirt road leading into Tamarindo washed out during rainy season, so anyone wanting to leave had to walk to Villarreal to catch a bus.
only flights from the U.S. to Costa 5 The Rica in 1970 were provided by Pan Am
Airlines and flew to San José on a lessthan-consistent basis. This is why so many people drove to Tamarindo in vehicles that they could sleep in.
of ice were delivered by truck on 6 Blocks Thursdays and could be counted on being puddles of semi-cold water by Sunday morning.
first cabinas for visitors were built in 7 The 1965 and were rented almost exclusively
by Ticos from Santa Cruz or San José. Hotel Tamarindo Diria was constructed in 1973 with the intention of catering to international travelers who were initially fishermen, not surfers, looking to catch marlin and sailfish off the coast. Papagayo Excursions began at about the same time in response to this influx of outside anglers.
It is no secret that Playa Tamarindo 8 has become a mecca for surfers of all
Photo courtesy of Mar Vista
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levels due initially to the two “Endless Summer” movies by surfer-filmmaker Bruce Brown. His close friend Robert August was one of the surfers featured in the original 1964 movie, and the reason Brown came to Tamarindo to film on location in the sequel nearly 30 years later. August tells the story of meeting the
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Photo courtesy of Robert August
late Russell Wenrich, an early developer here, at the 1990 Surf Expo in Orlando, Florida. Having touted Tamarindo on that occasion as the ideal surf spot, Wenrich later paid the airfare for August and a group of fellow surfers and filmmakers (including Brown and Robert “Wingnut” Weaver) to come visit. He even put them up for free in his cabinas because Wenrich saw the future potential of Tamarindo becoming a surfing destination point. The result was “Endless Summer II”. Russell was a visionary, to say the least.
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Playa Tamarindo is bordered to the north and to the south by mangrove estuaries, the largest of this kind in Latin America. They play host to more than 175 species of birds, including crowned herons, egrets, white ibises and roseate spoonbills.
Location: Tamarindo, 20 meters North of Super Compro
To the north, Las Baulas National Marine Park is home to the endangered leatherback (baula) turtle. More than 800 female adult turtles come to lay their eggs here as they make a slow, perilous comeback toward survival of their species. The female, which can weigh up to 1,500 pounds, lives in the ocean for 13 years before returning for the first time to lay her eggs (which can number up to 120) at the same location where she was born.
And there are your fast and fun facts and minutiae trivia about Tamarindo for today. I hope you learned something at least a little interesting in this article, which would not have been possible without the help of Christina Spilsbury and Robert August. Thanks, guys.
Photo courtesy of Tamarindo Sportfishing
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 17
TRAVEL & ADVENTURE by Tom Schultz
POÁS REVISITED
Two Trips, 10 Years Apart, Equally Memorable
M NATIONAL PARKS
other Nature is always surprising us. As we went to print with the March magazine, this article about the newly opened Poás National Park required an update: the volcano erupted early in the morning on February 11, 2019. This prompted the park to be closed until further notice.
R
ule number one: you must wear your helmet (casco in Spanish) at all times. That is how your visit to Poás Volcano National Park begins. It’s one of many changes since we first visited the park in April 2009. That visit had started with a tortuous, bumpy drive to the park, since most of the roads had just been reopened following the terrible Cinchona earthquake in January 2009. We arrived at the gate where you paid admission, then parked in the large lots in front of the visitor center. The center had an attractive little display highlighting the volcano’s natural history, and a nice place to get some hot
coffee or breakfast if you started out early to beat the clouds. The mornings at 9,000-feet elevation are a tad cool, so the coffee was greatly appreciated. We then got a trail map to follow, first to the crater overlooking the “permanent” 300-foot-tall geyser shooting from the aquamarine lake in the bottom of the crater. After viewing that, you could walk the trails around the crater or back to Lake Botos, a wonderful trek back to the old crater from about 5,000 years ago. You could spend hours enjoying nature in an area filled with highaltitude plants and birds, many found only up in Costa Rica’s mountaintops.
My wife, Shelley Reeves, standing in the same place in 2009 and 2019 (right). Photos: Tom Schultz
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COSTA RICA DINNER ADVENTURE Short Estuary Trip to Dinner at The Great Waltini’s in Bula Bula Hotel
View crocodiles, birds, monkeys and more Tamarindo to Palm Beach Estates via boat Enjoy a delightful dinner Return via boat to Tamarindo SEE DINING GUIDE AD PAGE 83
Taxi is complimentary with dinner reservations Three Pick up times at Tamarindo Estuary: 5, 5:30, and 6pm Main: Poás Volcano erupted in April 2017 and changed the national park forever.
Reserve boat taxi before 2pm 2653-0975
Below: What the lake looked like in 2009 and what it looks like now in 2019.
Monday- Mexican Wednesday - Italian 5:30-8:30 #s earchf indh owl
Tel: 2653-0975 Email: frontdesk@hotelbulabula.com HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 19
TRAVEL & ADVENTURE
Different colored hard hats not only protect you in case of eruption but also represent each 20-minute tour group as the sign says below.
Never going to be the same
Our finca in Puriscal looks over the Central Valley directly to Poás, so we were among the first to notice steam and smoke coming from the volcano in April 2017. Over the next few weeks, a series of eruptions damaged or destroyed many of the park buildings. As a result, Costa Rica’s second most popular national park, whose yearly visitation was only exceeded by Manuel Antonio, was shut down indefinitely. Over the next 18 months, the government made plans for how — if ever — Poás could reopen. Businesses near the park suffered and some were forced to close, having lost tens of thousands of volcano visitors a month. Then in October 2018, to the relief of surrounding tourism-dependent communities, the park was officially reopened to visitors. New buildings, new rules and the green light from volcanologists made it possible.
Visiting the park today
Vegetation is just now regrowing after the 2017 eruption. The caldera as photographed in January 2019. This might have changed with the new eruption in February 2019.
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In addition to the aforementioned helmet requirement, other aspects of visiting Poás National Park are dramatically different, while others are the same. One rule that has not changed: visit early. Before 9:30 is advisable. The summit of Poás and its sister volcanoes are the divide between the wet Caribbean air and the dry Pacific air. By 9 a.m. and later, you can easily get lost in the mist with little visibility. The park entrance opens at 7 a.m., with tours starting every 20 minutes, limited to under 60 people. A major difference for park visitors since the 2018 reopening is that tickets are supposed to be pre-ordered in advance. The cost for foreigners is $15 per adult and $5 for children, and citizens/residents pay 1,000 colones per adult and 500 colones for children. Tickets can be purchased at the National System of Conservation Areas (SINAC) website: www.sinac.go.cr/EN-US/ac/accvc/ pnvp/Pages/default.aspx. Unfortunately, this is not a user-friendly process and involves creating a SINAC login first. Possible alternatives include restaurants, souvenir shops and other establishments near the park that have offered to make tickets available. Other park visitors have reported being able to purchase tickets at the gate. Another new requirement for those driving their own vehicle is a 2,000 colones parking fee to the Cruz Roja (Red Cross). This supports the agency’s full-time presence in the park as a condition of its reopening. Time limits for park visits have also been imposed since the park reopened. Upon arrival 10 minutes or so before your scheduled
tour, you are met by park staff who outfits you with a hardhat. Wearing them at all times is mandatory in case of volcanic eruption. Also for safety reasons under the agreement to reopen the park, the coffee shop remains closed, so visitors are advised to get their java fix beforehand. Everyone is asked to keep together in a group at the volcano and stay no longer than 20 minutes. We stayed a bit longer and no one seemed to object, but our visit was much shorter than it was 10 years ago. New shelters have been built for taking cover in case of an eruption, and you are restricted to only the crater overlook site. The trail back to Lake Botos and others are all closed.
Then and now
The crater looks very different now. Areas circled in yellow paint on stairs and buildings show the impact of volcanic rocks.. Gone is the lake on the bottom, where just the start of a little green patch is visible. There is no more geyser, only some emanating steam. The vegetation around the crater is starting to return, but the difference is very noticeable. The area nearby is still full of wonderful vegetation and birds you can still only see up on top of the mountains. So, with less to see and harder to visit, should you visit? Absolutely! The experience of looking down into the mouth of an active volcano, and the very notion of needing to use your hardhat and retreat to a fallout shelter, adds a bit of thrill to your shortened visit. We enjoyed the trip and highly recommend it.
How to get there
Another change from 10 years ago — much for the better — is the improvement to road conditions! By car: Route No. 1: From San José, take the General Cañas highway to Alajuela. From there, take Route No. 712 to Poasito, through Itiquís communities and Fraijanes, following signs to Poás Volcano. Route No. 2: From Heredia, drive north to Barva de Heredia, then to Varablanca and Poásito. By bus: Route No. 1: From San José at Tuasa terminal, street 12-14, Av. 2, buses depart every day at 8:30 a.m., passing through Tuasa terminal in Alajuela at about 9 a.m. Route No. 2: From Heredia, north to Barva de Heredia, then to Varablanca and Poásito.
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Casa Sirena Las Catalinas, Playa Danta
Villa Alamanda Tamarindo, Ocean View
Robert Davey
Casa Roca Langosta Beachfront
Brian Bratton
Casa Marvillosa Pacific Heights Ocean View
Villa Oro, Flamingo Beachfront Jewel
Max Arata
bob@bdavey.com Cel: 8870.8870
brian@ppcire.com Cel: 8704.9997
max.arata@ppcire.com Cel: 8407.1898
San JosĂŠ Office 2288-0483
Tamarindo Office 2653-0300
Flamingo Office 2654-4004
Specializing in Costa Rica Real Estate for over 27 years! #s earchf indh owl
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 21
TRAVEL & ADVENTURE
Playa Avellanas Where Surfers, Food ies and Farmers Unite by Laura Galvin
COOL PLACES
P
Avellanas has just the right factors to create a budding paradise for food lovers.
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laya Avellanas is a picturesque white sand beach, put on the map years ago as a surf destination, but also ideal for lazy shoreside days. With plenty of almond, buttonwood and palm trees to sit under along this long stretch of beach, it’s easy to find your own shaded slice of solitude to relax for the day. Less than half an hour south of bustling Tamarindo, it’s perfect for those who want a break from the flocks of tourists at that beach. Five surf spots can be found at this one beach, varying in difficulty and direction, so despite the growing popularity, the crowd is still fairly well dispersed. It’s one of the more relaxed surf locales in the area, and you’ll see first timers taking lessons, longboarders showing off their nose rides, boogie boarders and up-and-coming pros all sharing the waves. There are many beach entrances, though some are more popular than others; which one you choose depends on the kind of day you’d like to have. The main parking lot near the landmark beach restaurant is usually packed, but if you want to go straight to the action you
can head there. If you’re looking for a more unique adventure, head north to Cabinas Las Olas where you can grab a drink or snack at the restaurant and then walk the weathered wooden walkway that winds through the mangroves leading to the beach. The uneven path takes you through a beautiful, otherworldly landscape you’ll certainly want to snap a ‘gram-worthy picture. The Avellanas community extends beyond the beach, and the diverse group of residents seem to not only share a love for the coast, but for all of the natural resources in the area. Family farms are flourishing, finding their niche in organics, while new restaurants have opened in recent years with unique menus boasting local ingredients. It seems Avellanas has just the right factors to create a budding paradise for food lovers: international influence, plenty of land to farm, plus a rising demand from environmentally conscious residents for local ingredients and chefs who truly care about quality and sourcing.
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Photos: Nomad Design House
N (+506) 8302-3217
M 10.230143, -85.8323361
Meet the Locals Italians in Costa Rica Young Italian couple, Stefano and Ilaria, opened Il Rustico in 2017, creating an unforgettable experience inspired by their homeland but influenced by their new home in Costa Rica. You will feel like you’re eating at your nonna’s house, enjoying authentic homemade pasta and pizza, but with trendy tropical cocktails flowing … and if you're lucky, an acoustic jam band. Organic Family Farmers Vida y Salud Huerta Organica began their organic family farm in Avellanas over five years ago, planting in a unique mandala pattern inspired by the ancient Mayan farming circles. Their delicious, naturally grown produce was in such high demand at local ferias that they recently opened Pimienta Verde Organic Market in neighboring Tamarindo. Chef Gives Back Through Mentorship Thirteen years ago José Piedra found himself cooking at a casual surf spot in Avellanas, when no one else working there stepped up to the plate. It turns out he liked it and had a natural talent for creating flavorful dishes, as one customer who would soon change José’s life noticed. This Italian visitor and trained chef offered him a room at his house in Rome to stay and take cooking classes. José saw the (continued on next page)
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MAIN ROAD, PLAYA AVELLANAS, COSTA RICA
HANDMADE PASTA • PIZZERIA COCKTAIL BAR
5.30- 9.30PM (CLOSED THURSDAY)
@ILRUSTICOPLAYAAVELLANAS
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 23
TRAVEL & ADVENTURE
Photos: Nomad Design House
opportunity and decided to make it happen, selling all his surfboards and booking a flight to Rome. He learned Italian well enough in just three months to begin taking classes, attending two prestigious schools during his time in Italy and later working in Germany. Upon returning to his native Costa Rica, José was working at a restaurant in Playas del Coco, when he took a trip to Avellanas and went by the old surf locale. It was dilapidated but José saw potential and soon the wheels were in motion to open his own restaurant in the same place where it all began years ago. He named it Blu, a private nod to his mentor from Rome who José continues to honor by mentoring
others through cooking lessons. Today Blu serves up unique dishes inspired by all of José’s travels and cooking experiences, complemented by a talented mixologist behind the bar. With José’s professional training and meticulous sourcing of the freshest local ingredients around, Blu offers an experience like no other in Avellanas. Family Raises Happy, Healthy Goats Rancho Avellanas is a family-owned goat farm that produces organic products like chèvre and Greek yogurt. Though Costa Rican couple Hilda and Carlos have owned their finca and farmed different animals and crops for 34 years, their goat products’ popularity has soared in recent
years, especially among top local chefs. The care and love that goes into producing the healthiest, most natural dairy products on their farm is beyond impressive. Their goats don’t eat just anything; the couple grows superfoods like moringa on the rancho for their goats to eat. Their cheeses and yogurts are processed on-site, without the use of chemicals or preservatives. They currently have about 100 goats residing on the farm, and typically produce around 70 to 100 liters of milk per day. However, with 26 females expecting babies in March, the farm is gearing up for extra milk (and extra cuteness) this month. Stop by to purchase their products and see the happiest goats in Costa Rica for yourself!
Photo: Jorgelina Agramunt
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C R E AT I V E I N T E R N AT I O N A L C U I S I N E
By Chef José Piedra
F E AT U R I N G F R E S H , LO C A L I N G R E D I E N T S & D R I N K M I XO LO G I ST
5:30 10PM | CLOSED WEDNESDAYS MAIN ROAD, 50 METERS SOUTH OF THE TURN TO PLAYA AVELLANAS
@BLUPLAYAAVELLANAS | #s earchf indh owl
(+506) 83116020 |
BLU PLAYA AVELLANAS HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 25
TRAVEL & ADVENTURE
BUSH DOG by Tom Knight
CREATURE FEATURE
Costa Rica's Newest and Rarest Animal
O
ne of our planet's rarest and most secretive animal species — the bush dog (Speothos venaticus) — was recently discovered on the Pacific slopes of Costa Rica’s Talamanca Mountains, near the Panama border. The BriBri, Cabecar and Ngobe-bugle indigenous people have been saying they have seen these elusive animals for years. It’s no wonder wildlife researchers were astonished to confirm their existence in an area of the Las Tablas Protected Zone that had been under constant study for more than a decade. In March 2016, when Jan Schipper and his colleagues were examining their camera traps, one image out of 16,000 revealed several bush dogs in the heavily-forested montane habitat at 4,900 feet elevation. Schipper, who had been expecting to see jaguars, declared, "It was like Christmas!" Bush dogs are very reclusive animals that have been around for at least 300,000 years, a conclusion based only on the existence of fossilized bones found in a Brazilian cave. Even today, due to their natural rareness and cryptic behavior, little is known about these iconic forest dwellers. Through the relatively recent use of digital camera traps, bush dogs have been documented in Panama, Ecuador, Peru, and Brazil to northern Argentina. That the Costa Rica bush dog sighting is the furthest north on record, means scientists must re-evaluate research data that’s only a few years old. “They were probably there all along but as the Cordillera Talamanca has become an island of habitat in a sea of agriculture,” Dr. Schipper expands on the discovery. “They are now marginalized in the mountains like the jaguar.” Previous bush dog sightings had
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been confined to wet tropical forests, swamps and seasonally flooded areas, at elevations never exceeding 600 feet. How the bush dog became established in Costa Rica’s only unfragmented, high mountainous forest remains a mystery, but some wonder if deforestation and reforestation of lands in the isthmus of Costa Rica has something to do with this northern migration. Bearing some resemblance to an otter, the bush dog is a card-carrying member of the wild canine family, with an estimated average lifespan of around 10 years. Its medium-thick coat ranges
Bush dogs are extremely social by nature. from a reddish-brown color on the head to a darker brown body, with a short, thick tail. Pups are born black. Adults are short-legged — 12 inches at shoulder height — but with a proportionately long body (up to 30 inches), and weigh 10 to 18 pounds. This squat stature is ideal for traversing dense jungle underbrush. Bush dogs travel in pairs or hunting packs of up to 12 members, and shun established trails, thus ensuring their secretive lifestyle. Bush dogs are extremely social by nature. A pack consists of the alpha male and alpha female, which is the only puppy-bearing member (one to six per litter). If pups are present, other females will assist in guarding, carrying and cleaning them. Remaining pack members will bring back portions of a successful hunt for those left behind "puppy-sitting". The close social bond among pack
members is especially apparent during a hunt. Bush dog prey typically consists of large rodents such as agoutis, pacas and capybara. Although lone bush dogs will also hunt small mammals, lizards, reptiles and ground-nesting birds, the pack collectively makes up for individuals or small groups. Incredibly fierce, bush dogs have been known to attack tapirs, 20 times their size. Half the pack will pursue large prey on land and the others will wait in the water. Bush dogs are terrific swimmers and the only wild dog species with semi-webbed feet. Their unsuspecting prey will usually seek water for refuge, only to meet demise instead. In dense underbrush, bush dogs communicate using many different vocalizations, ultimately through a series of quick puppy-like "yaps" when closing in on their prey. Individual bush dog packs can occupy a large territory of up to 30 square miles without infringing on another pack’s home range. The diurnal creatures (active during the day) dig or use abandoned armadillo burrows and hollow tree trunks for shelter at night, but sometimes spend half the day denning. While not directly threatened by human predators, population numbers are indirectly affected by habitat destruction for agriculture and resulting food source elimination. Bush dogs are designated as “Near Threatened” (NT) on the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Red List. This is a category for wildlife species that researchers know little or nothing about. Bush dogs have been bred in several zoos, but with no plans to introduce them elsewhere.
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DENTAL Advanced family, implant and cosmetic dental services
Call or email to schedule initial consultation Tamarindo - Garden Plaza
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HOWLER
SURFING
MOON PHASES
March 6 New Moon
COSTA RICA
March 14 1st Quarter
March 20 Full Moon
March 27
3rd Quarter
Surfer: Jose Amed Murillo. Photo: Gallo Pinto TV, Esteban Delgado
Surfing Events March • • • • • •
Fridays, Mar 1, 8, 15, 22, 29 - 4pm - Playa Hermosa, Backyard Bar Saturdays, Mar 2, 9, 16, 23, 30 - 4pm - Playa Hermosa, Backyard Bar Mondays, Mar 4, 11, 18, 25 - Santa Teresa, Banana Beach Club Sat-Sun, Mar 2-3 - Avellanas, Circuito Guanacasteco Sharky’s Triple Crown Sat, Mar 16 - Tamarindo, Robert August Surf and Turf Tournament Sat-Sun, Mar 23-24 - Playa Guiones, 2019 Kolbi Circuito Nacional de Surf
April • • • •
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Fridays, Apr 5, 12, 19, 26 - 4pm - Playa Hermosa, Backyard Bar Saturdays, Apr 6, 13, 20, 27 - 4pm - Playa Hermosa, Backyard Bar Mondays, Apr 1, 8, 15, 22, 29 - Santa Teresa, Banana Beach Club Sat-Sun, Apr 27-28 - Santa Teresa, 2019 Kolbi Circuito Nacional de Surf
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SUNRISE March 1 March 31
5:53 am 5:37 am
SUNSET March 1 March 31
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5:49 pm 5:49 pm
TIDE CHART DAY
HIGH TIDES
March 01 - March 31, 2019
LOW TIDES
HIGH TIDES
LOW TIDES
HIGH TIDES
1 Fri
4:58am 1.64'
11:20am 6.71'
5:19pm 2.17'
11:41pm 7.23'
2 Sat
6:06am 1.58'
12:24pm 6.86'
6:25pm 2.07'
3 Sun
12:39am 7.35'
7:02am 1.33'
1:18pm 7.20'
7:21pm 1.76'
4 Mon
1:29am 7.60'
7:48am 1.00'
2:02pm 7.61'
8:05pm 1.37'
5 Tues
2:13am 7.92'
8:26am 0.66'
2:40pm 8.02'
8:43pm 0.96'
6 Wed
2:53am 8.21'
9:02am 0.35'
3:16pm 8.38'
9:19pm 0.58'
7 Thurs
3:29am 8.43'
9:34am 0.13'
3:50pm 8.67'
9:53pm 0.29'
8 Fri
4:05am 8.54'
10:08am 0.01'
4:24pm 8.84'
10:29pm 0.12'
9 Sat
4:39am 8.52'
10:40am 0.02'
4:56pm 8.88'
11:03pm 0.07'
10 Sun
5:13am 8.38'
11:12am 0.13'
5:30pm 8.81'
11:37pm 0.16'
11 Mon
5:49am 8.13'
11:46am 0.34'
6:06pm 8.64'
12 Tues
12:15am 0.35'
6:27am 7.80'
12:24pm 0.62'
6:44pm 8.39'
13 Wed
12:57am 0.61'
7:09am 7.45'
1:06pm 0.95'
7:28pm 8.08'
14 Thurs
1:43am 0.91'
7:57am 7.13'
1:56pm 1.28'
8:22pm 7.77'
15 Fri
2:41am 1.16'
8:59am 6.92'
2:58pm 1.52'
9:26pm 7.57'
16 Sat
3:47am 1.26'
10:11am 6.95'
4:10pm 1.54'
10:40pm 7.61'
17 Sun
4:59am 1.08'
11:25am 7.33'
5:26pm 1.23'
11:52pm 7.95'
18 Mon
6:07am 0.63'
12:29pm 7.99'
6:36pm 0.63'
19 Tues
12:56am 8.49'
7:07am 0.02'
1:27pm 8.76'
7:36pm -0.08'
20 Wed
1:52am 9.07'
8:01am -0.59'
2:19pm 9.50'
8:30pm -0.73'
21 Thurs
2:44am 9.55'
8:51am -1.08'
3:09pm 10.06'
9:18pm -1.20'
22 Fri
3:32am 9.84'
9:39am -1.34'
3:55pm 10.35'
10:06pm -1.41'
23 Sat
4:18am 9.87'
10:23am -1.33'
4:41pm 10.35'
10:52pm -1.33'
24 Sun
5:06am 9.63'
11:09am -1.04'
5:27pm 10.04'
11:38pm -0.98'
25 Mon
5:52am 9.16'
11:55am -0.50'
6:13pm 9.50'
26 Tues
12:26am -0.42'
6:40am 8.53'
12:41pm 0.19'
7:01pm 8.79'
27 Wed
1:14am 0.25'
7:32am 7.84'
1:31pm 0.95'
7:53pm 8.04'
28 Thurs
2:08am 0.92'
8:30am 7.21'
2:27pm 1.64'
8:51pm 7.38'
29 Fri
3:10am 1.46'
9:36am 6.77'
3:35pm 2.14'
9:59pm 6.95'
30 Sat
4:18am 1.77'
10:46am 6.64'
4:47pm 2.31'
11:07pm 6.82'
31 Sun
5:26am 1.77'
11:50am 6.80'
5:57pm 2.15'
SURF EAT STRETCH SLEEP REPEAT #gogrande
We h a v e y o u c o v e r e d . Free 2 hr
Board Rental with surf lesson
simply mention
HOWLER www.frijoleslocos.com #s earchf indh owl
Sunset
Happy hour
Daily, 4-6 2x1 cocktails 1000c beers Discount bocas menu
www.ripjackinn.com HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 29
SURFING COSTA RICA
SURF PROFILE
ANDREA DIAZ by Ellen Zoe Golden
S
‘In the water there are ups and downs as there are in life.’
Photo: Ines Espinoza
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he’s called Mama Lucha. Not because she is a fierce, single mother of three, but because, as Andrea Diaz explains it, “I’m a fighter and as a surf coach, I will give you tough love … say it like it is with kindness, respect, passion and love.” That philosophy has served Diaz well all her life. As a teenager, she was on the Costa Rica Olympic swim team, but started surfing in 1993. By the end of that decade, she and a couple of girlfriends were the only competitive females in Costa Rica; as a result, they had to surf their heats with the boys. In 1999, Andrea became the first national Women’s Surf champion. With that she gained the attention of Roxy, who signed her to a contract that sent her around the world doing surf stories for various magazines. Eventually, Diaz opened her own surf school — first in Hermosa near Jacó, then later in Tamarindo. Called “Waves Costa Rica”, it was the only Quiksilver/Roxy facility in the country at the time. Other accolades included twice earning the Costa Rica national Women’s Masters trophy, and placing fifth in the world, two years in a row, at the International Surf Association (ISA) World Masters Championships, after obliterating the global competitors. As an instructor, Diaz was finding her niche. While she has always given lessons to and coached guys, Diaz realized she had a special talent for bringing out the surf skills in women. These days, in addition to being a sought-after surf instructor on her own, she also works with Witch's Rock Surf camp in Tamarindo focusing on the Women's Surf Retreat program they offer.
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Why specialize in women’s surfing? “I relate better to women,” Diaz explains. “I understand how we think and how we process information. As a result, I manage to establish that relationship with my surfer chicas from a relatable, ‘I’ve been there’ point of view. I feel like this is my calling to teach, since surfing is very similar to life: in the water there are ups and downs as there are in life. I feel like I not only teach women how to surf but I actually mentor to them on how to succeed — perhaps not just in the water but, outside of the water as well.” Out of the ocean, Diaz is the founder of a Guanacaste community organization that uses surfing to motivate underprivileged kids to achieve. Called “Surf 4 Youth”, in order to participate in the surf part of the program, it emphasizes education with rewards for academic achievement, including trips to various surf contests around the country. Ocean the biggest teacher for Diaz “When surfing, if you hesitate, you are setting yourself up for failure,” she asserts. “So I have translated that fearless mindset into life too: Go big or go home. Wiping out doesn’t determine me as a human being or as a surfer. Nope, it has taught me to be on top of my game, to respect myself, and that if I fall all I need to do is breathe deep and get back on my board. Those are the biggest lessons in life. I have done my work to be ready and willing to always charge.”
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Surfing photo series: Heiner Castillo
Athlete: Andrea Diaz Sport: Surfing Age: 42 About: One of the hardest charging Costa Rican surfers among women AND men. Sponsors: Bikinis Love Designs Photo: Ines Espinoza
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 31
SURFING COSTA RICA
M
al Pais, a name which translates to “bad country,” is anything but that. This gorgeous stretch of Pacific coastline is just south of the popular, and far more populous beach town of Santa Teresa. A mix of sand and rocky shore makes Mal Pais a beautifully dramatic slice of coastline. Beach trees, tide pools, surfers and fishermen make up the rest of the landscape here. While now on the tourist and surfer radar, Mal Pais has managed to hold onto its tranquil and unspoiled paradise vibe. Mal Pais is not a great beginner surfer’s destination, but more experienced surfers will likely find the surf they have long been dreaming about.
How to Get There
Where to Surf
The surf in Mal Pais can be a bit more hazardous than conditions further north in Santa Teresa. This is due to the rocks and reefs that line the ocean floor here. Also, because of position, the breaks of Mal Pais are very susceptible to strong currents. When there is a sizeable swell, the two main spots in Mal Pais are definitely not suitable for inexperienced surfers. Sunset Reef and Mar Azul are the two most sought-after surf spots by experienced surfers. They are left breaking and can be quite spectacular with the right swell, tide and wind direction. Sunset Reef is an initially fast and barreling wave that can open up into a long wall to play on. Mar Azul breaks over a reef and has multiple peaks. Both spots offer challenges and great rewards. There are a few other breaks in between, as Mal Pais is a rather long and exposed beach.
Local Companies
If you are looking for a surf school in Mal Pais, look no further than Blue Surf Sanctuary or Mal Pais Surf Camp and Resort. Both are highly revered by surfers of all experience levels who have visited and stayed in Mal Pais. Don’t miss out on Mary’s Restaurant and Farm while you are in Mal Pais. It’s an institution! Mary’s menu features whatever the local fishermen bring in that day, as well as what is growing on her organic farm. This quaint spot is also very well-known for fabulous fish tacos, the perfect post-surf food.
SURF SPOT
MAL PAIS
Mal Pais is remotely situated near the bottom tip of the Nicoya Peninsula. This expanse of beach can be accessed by multiple modes and combinations of transportation, including plane, ferry, car and bus. The easiest way to get to Mal Pais is to take a Sansa flight from San José or Liberia to Tambor. Then take a taxi or shuttle the remaining 45 minutes. The next fastest way from San José is to drive to Puntarenas and take a ferry
across the Gulf of Nicoya to Paquera. From Paquera, it is about a 90-minute drive. A once-daily public bus from San José to Mal Pais is an alternative to driving or flying. It departs from the Coca-Cola bus station at 6 a.m. and arrives at 2 p.m.
by Jenn Parker
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Mal Pais has managed to hold onto its tranquil and unspoiled paradise vibe.
Photographer: Carlos Palacios Company: Carlos Palacios Photography About: Professional water and land photographer who loves nature and surfing, and loves telling stories with his photos while having fun doing it. Pura vida!
Santa Teresa 8338-3057 insecto@gmail.com Carlos Palacios Photography @insecto www.insectoart.com
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 33
Support CEPIA
Enjoy Surf & Turf … and More Surf
A
long standing charitable event in Tamarindo will be packed with more action than ever this year during the mid-March weekend when it normally attracts thousands of fun seekers. The Robert August Surf & Turf golf tournament and surf competition, supporting CEPIA, is adding the 1st Annual Tamarindo International Surf Film Festival to the lineup of activities taking place March 15-17, 2019. All event proceeds benefit CEPIA, a non-profit organization that offers educational activities, sports, culture and health services to hundreds of underprivileged children and adolescents in the Guanacaste area. The Tamarindo International Surf Film Festival is hosted by Tamarindo resident
Details
• •
by Howler Staff
and life-time surfer, Jerry Hirsch. “Our mission is to energize the multicultural surf community in Costa Rica through the magic of cinema,” states the press release, “and to celebrate the artists and filmmakers who take us there.” The weekend highlights include a golf tournament on Friday, March 15 at Hacienda Pinilla, a surf competition Saturday on Tamarindo beach hosted by Cheboards and SunBum, and screenings of short and feature surf films at Multicines Tamarindo Friday and Saturday night at 6 p.m. It all culminates Sunday with a free screening of a children’s movie for the families benefiting from CEPIA services. There is something for everyone to enjoy and give back to the community.
Golf: $160. Includes golf cart, golf fee, lunch and goodie bag. Surf: Four men team comp. Each team will get one set of Cheboards ( 9’ - 8’ - 7’ - 6’ ) available to surf the 15-mi. heat. $50/team or $13/individual Registration price for the overall contest is $250. This includes VIP goodie bag, golf and surf tournament registration and entrance to the Film Festival both nights. More info: Kristina at cepia.surfandturf@gmail.com or (506) 8447-6900.
Tamarindo International Surf Film Festival At this can’t-miss inaugural event, CEPIA is thrilled to be screening some of the most interesting and creative surf films released in the past year: • • • • • • • • • • • •
Cult of Freedom: The Taj Part by Joe G. Aloha, Brother by Sam Sykes The Forgotten Archipelago by Ben Weiland No. 4 by Matt Payne, Octopus Jungle by Morgan Maassen Momentum Generation by Mike and Jeff Zimbalist * Brainwork: Adam Replogle by Kyle Buthman Naussica by Luca Merli Trouble, The Lisa Andersen Story by Chas Smith Cult of Freedom: The New Zealand Part by Joe G. TAN by Alena Ehrenbold White Rhino by Brent Storm
To learn more about CEPIA and ways you can help this amazing organization give back to the community — including online donations — www.cepiacostarica.org or email cepiacostarica@gmail.com.
* The screening of Momentum Generation will be followed by a Q&A with internationally acclaimed, award winning film director Jeff Zimbalist, making a special guest appearance in Tamarindo!
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Tamarindo International Surf Film Festival 2019 th
March
15th & 16th
Films screened at 6PM with an intermission each night.
Doors open
5PM to 11PM
Multicines, Garden Plaza, Tamarindo.
Where to buy
2 3 9
Nights of Surf Movies & Party with all proceeds to benefit CEPIA Surf Features
- Momentum Generation (Subt. EspaĂąol) - Trouble The Lisa Anderson Story - White Rhino
Short Surf Films
Pop up shops, Food and Live Music
$15 $25 $20
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Pre sale tickets available at: Multicines, Tamarindo & Liberia The Bookstore of the Waves (formerly Jaime Peligro) CEPIA, Huacas, SurfBox, Flamingo.
Each night Two night Day of the event Multicines Tamarindo
More info www.tamarindosurffilmfestival.org contact: tamasurffilmfestival@gmail.com Music By: DJ Fada & Brutus
LIVE
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SHARK THE #
LIFE
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 35
Multicines ,Tamarindo Garden Plaza
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ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT
Photo: Ignacio Barrantes Jimenez
URBAN TOURISM
Calle de la Amargura
Photo: Ignacio Barrantes Jimenez
by Sylvia Barreto Benites
Night and Day:A Different Place
W
ith a Spanish name that literally translates to “Bitterness Street,” Calle de la Amargura is a cultural landmark slated for a facelift. Packed with cafes, photocopy kiosks, shops and yoga studios, Calle 3 spans a four-block area in San Pedro, San José. Extending from the University of Costa Rica Campus (UCR) doors, it’s the center of life for the student body. Some say the name and the street itself represent the temptations one must overcome to get an education. With more bars per square meter than anywhere else in the country, and a reputation for drug sales and violence, Calle de la Amargura transforms each day as the sun goes down.
Photo courtesy of Calle de la Amargura.
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From dusk ‘til dawn
During the day
As soon as the photocopy shops close their doors and the cafe lights switch off, the street is set ablaze with neon signs from bars. What looked like a hamburger joint or a pizzeria by day is now a bar brimming with flannel shirts and long beards. Although driving down the road at night is not recommended, it is indeed an experience. People from the overcrowded bars spill onto the street. It’s as if the entire four blocks become one giant nightclub, with different genres of music blaring from each entrance. It’s a full-capacity party every night of the week, lasting until dawn on the weekends.
When the sun is out, the street is a vibrant hub where young people spend time between classes. Vegetarian and vegan cafes are intermixed with coffee spots and places that have been serving casados to students for decades. In between the eateries, thriving photocopy businesses equipped to duplicate textbooks and thesis papers in a matter of hours are filled with students until closing. In recent years, an inseparable blend of graffiti and street art has transformed the streetscape; from images of Indian deities to dazzling kaleidoscopes of color, the murals alone are worth a visit to Calle de la Amargura. You can also browse in little artisan shops
Photo: Marialina Villegas
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Installing solar panels is a long-term and easy way to offset your carbon footprint. Photo: Marialina Villegas
that sell student-made soaps, jewelry and other natural products, or take a stroll through the university campus.
The future of Bitterness Street
In November 2018, the Costa Rican government announced big plans for this section of San José. With 38 million colones earmarked for the first project phase, the local municipality of Montes de Oca and the Costa Rican Drug Institute (ICD) are partnering to transform the area into a pedestrian boulevard. A cultural center is also being built to offset the party atmosphere. Although it is difficult to imagine eliminating the college town feel of Calle 3, a focus
on the arts and culture that the university offers would be a welcome addition. So next time you are in San José, take a moment to experience the youthful vibe … maybe get some copies printed while you’re there.
Host your next party or event with us!
Jazz Cafe
Right around the corner from la Calle de La Amargura is a different musical staple, where some of Costa Rica’s most talented musicians have been taking to the stage for more than 20 years. Known for its live music and craft brews, Jazz Cafe is where you can experience the benefit of having a worldrenowned university music program right around the corner.
Beachfront views customizable menus full-service event space free parking CONTACT US +506 4702 2616 Monday - Friday 11 AM - 12 AM Saturday - Sunday 10 AM - 12 AM
Photo: Marialina Villegas
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Located steps off the beach at HM HOWLER | 37 Main Corner, Playa MAGAZINE Brasilito
ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT
The Jade Museum FEATURED MUSEUM
A Voyage of Art Through History
by Sylvia Barreto Benites
These secrets of Pre-Columbian jade are a marvel that is worth the trip alone to San José.
More information
www.museodeljadeins.com
Hours:
Mon-Sun,10 am-5pm
Cost:
Foreigners: $15 Students w/ ID: $5 Children under 10: Free Nationals: $5 University students: $2 Children, students, seniors, disabled: Free
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C
osta Rica’s awe-inspiring El Museo de Jade (The Jade Museum) takes visitors on a voyage through the diverse artistic history of Pre-Columbian communities. Located in San José’s Plaza de la Cultura (Plaza of Culture), the museum was created with the intent to stave off tomb raiders and the loss of valuable historical artifacts. Multisensory exhibits housing some 7,000 pieces go far beyond the opportunity to view all manner of jade artifacts; they represent a rare journey back in time. The Instituto Nacional de Seguros (INS) was founded in 1924, originally as a bank and then later becoming the institute it is today, offering insurance to those living in Costa Rica. In the 1970s, serious losses of national treasures due to tomb raider theft prompted the government to pass a law forbidding the removal of historic artifacts from the country. The INS began to amass its collection in hopes of preserving the nation’s historic patrimony. In 1977, the “Archaeological Collection of the National Insurance Institute” opened its doors and three years later, its name was changed to The Jade Museum. Each of the museum galleries, set up in a series, represents a moment in Pre-Columbian history. It was a time in Costa Rica when jade was considered the most precious of all minerals. The museum intends to show that jade’s importance transcended just art, and was integral to every aspect of indigenous life. Your time travel begins in “The Threshold,” portraying the genesis of the indigenous community’s history and the importance of jade. Central to this exhibit is a block of jade in its natural state. From there you enter “The
Jade,” proceeding through the elaboration process of jade, routes of trade and jade’s importance in ritual. “The Day” displays the everyday life of the people, their livelihood, architecture and navigation. This leads naturally to “The Night,” a space dedicated to ritual, mythology and the underworld and its connection to this precious mineral. “Memory” comes next, giving you a chance to see what life was like among the indigenous of Costa Rica. The exhibit focuses on music, technology and human diversity, especially in gender roles. The last room is “Collection,” its objective being to protect objects found in three archaeological regions of the country: Greater Nicoya, Central Region and Greater Chiriquí. This collection is considered a moving exhibit, with objects serving as a framework for future investigations, as well as temporary and itinerant exhibitions. These secrets of Pre-Columbian jade are a marvel that is worth the trip alone to San José, next time you head there. The Jade Museum offers guided tours, audio guides and workshops. It also offers space for theater, art and music events that are ongoing and diverse.
Pro Tip: Take advantage of the Museum Walk (Paseo de Museos) and delve deeper into Costa Rican history. Purchase one ticket and visit the Jade Museum, as well as the Museums of the Central Bank of Costa Rica (Gold and Numismatic), and National Museum, for an all-inclusive price: 5,000 colones for locals and $31 for foreigners. This gives you one kilometer packed with archaeological, artistic and historic exhibitions. Photos courtesy of The Jade Museum
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HOWLER T r o o p
PHOTOGRAPHY Andrés Alejandro Cruz Zúñiga. Born in Liberia, Guanacaste. Has a Bachelor degree in International Relations with an emphasis in Foreign Trade. aandres2292@gmail.com Carlos Palacios. Professional water and land photographer from Costa Rica, who loves nature and surfing. insecto@gmail.com IG: @insecto FB: CARLOSPALACIOSPHOTOGRAPHY Dario Traffano. Photographer based in Coco. Dario Traffano Estudio Fotográfico. FB: dario.traffano IG: @dariotraffanoph Eduardo Gamboa Piedra. From San José, currently living in Guanacaste. Owner Caracola Grafica art company and Dj Flix. eduardogamboa.djflix@ gmail.com. FB: @caracolagrafica and @EduardoFlix Ernesto Elizondo Alvarado. Committed to the rescue and conservation of the heritage of Guanacaste. Professional Actor and Cultural Manager within the company Ciudad Oculta. ernestoelizondo@gmail.com. FB: CityHideCr
Heiner Castillo Matarrita. Started as a young Ostional Beach photographer to break free of working in four walls. He loves that moment where the ocean and the surfer is one and capturing that in his lense. iDeas del Norte. Is a Creative Collective based in Liberia, Guanacaste. Specialized in the provision of integral services of Visual Communication. lasideasdelnorte@gmail.com. FB: iDNFormatos IG: @iDNFormatos Ignacio Barrantes Jiménez. Chef and Audiovisual Producer. musicaalalena@gmail.com. IG: @ musica_a_la_lena FB: @representandoalmundo Ines Espinoza. A photographer from Nosara. She's still learning to surf, loves to dance and share time with her friends and family. Jorgelina Agramunt. We document your surf session at the breaks in Avellanas Beach with consistently incredible, rad images and create wall wrt. 8879-9612. www. avellanassurfphotos.com
Esteban Delgado. Professional photographer outside and inside the water; aerial photography, drone and videos. San José, Costa Rica. 86224036 & 2282-642. estebandg7@ gmail.com
Marialina Villegas. MAVIZU. Costa Rican photographer and anthropologist. Has spent the last 13 years documenting and investigating Latin American urban art. mavizu@gmail.com IG and FB: bocaracacultura @graficamestiza
Freddy Alvarez Abarca. Architect from Limón. Creates construction plans, blueprints and 3D models for the upcoming projects in Limón province. estudio@sisarquitectura. com. www.sisarquitectura.com
Paul E. German. A professional international photographer addicted to nature and fine art imagery along with creative commercial projects.
Gustavo Jimenez. Amateur surf, portraits, landscape, buildings, nature and wildlife photographer. Avellanas Beach. www.selvaazulphoto.com. IG: @Selva_Azul. FB: @Gustavo Jiménez Selva Azul
Rafa Sandoval. Owner and surf instructor at BeFit Retreat. Rafa was born and raised in Costa Rica. Along with his passion for surfing and surf instructing, he is also an avid surf photographer and videographer. www. befitreatreat.com. www.RafaSand.com
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ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT
National Museum of Costa Rica, San José
CULTURAL HERITAGE
MILITARY MAKEOVERS HONOR CULTURE OF PEACE
“B
The Museum of Guanacaste is a proud symbol of national peace. 40
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lessed the Costa Rican mother who knows, when giving birth, that her son will never be a soldier.” That’s what Ryoichi Sasakawa, a Japanese politician and philanthropist, had to say about Costa Rica’s culture of peace during one of his visits here. There is no question that the abolition of the Costa Rican army on December 1, 1948 is one of the country’s most monumental historical events. The decision by then-president José Figueres Ferrer to end the army as a permanent institution became a lasting legacy for future generations to share and appreciate in tangibly symbolic ways. A culturally defining byproduct may be seen today in the architecture of landmark public buildings in different parts of the country. Examples include several museums housed in repurposed military edifices replete with wartime reminders. Notably, the Guanacaste Museum in Liberia is typical of Costa Rican military architecture of its era. Construction of the former Liberia Barracks building spanned the administrations of Ricardo Jiménez Oreamuno (1932-1936) and León Cortés Castro (1936-1940), respectively. Located in the heart of Liberia, it covers an entire block
by Marian Paniagua
with an area of more than 4,430 square meters. The wall-framed structure of reinforced concrete was designed by architect José María Barrantes and its construction was directed by engineer Max Effinger. The materials were brought by train to Puntarenas and then transported to Liberia by motor boat through the Tempisque River to Liberia. Its U-shaped corridors led to bedrooms for the troops and commander, bathrooms, a weapons store, offices, library, warehouse, public jail and central courtyard. The main facade faces south, where some ornamental art deco elements remain appreciated by modern visitors. The building previously was occupied by ministry of public security and justice officials, respectively, and also served as Liberia’s prison for many years. Today, as a cultural center for showcasing the province’s artistic contributions as well as its rich history, the Museum of Guanacaste is a proud symbol of national peace. For Liberia in particular and Guanacaste in general, the old barracks is considered an urban landmark for reasons of architectural beauty and historical importance. It was declared an architectural heritage site on December 17, 1998.
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Guanacaste Museum, Liberia. Photos courtesy of iDeas del Norte.
Guanacaste Museum before restoration.
Other Cultural Conversions
F
or Costa Rica, the transformation of historical military buildings into modern cultural attractions reflects a society that values public investments on health, education and housing over armed forces reinforcement. The Liberia Barracks’ conversion to the Guanacaste Museum is just one example. Also notable are the following iconic museums, featured in the December 2018 and January 2019 issues of Howler, respectively. The Juan Santamaría Historical Cultural Museum in Alajuela is housed in that community’s old army barracks and prison buildings dating back to the 1870s. History buffs can explore endless facets of Costa Rica’s military, cultural and artistic heritage through ever-changing exhibits and events at this fascinating attraction, an initiative of the Ministry of Culture and Youth. The National Museum in San José resides in the former Bellavista Fortress, a military barracks built in 1917 that figured prominently in Costa Rica’s civil war until the army’s abolishment in 1948. Its walls remain peppered with bullet holes, reminding modern visitors of this cultural and scientific learning center’s wartime underpinnings. Photo courtesy of Juan Santamaría Historical Cultural Museum, Alajuela.
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 41
ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT
Participating performers at the recent launch of Música Genial CD. Photos: Dario Traffano
Música Genial MUSICSHELF
A Showcase of Guanacaste Talent and Originality
by Jim Parisi
The CD is a catchy blend of musical styles
P
apagayo Music Studio recently released the CD “Música Genial”, a compilation of 12 original songs and two original arrangements, growing out of a collaboration among dozens of Guanacaste musicians. The project is intended to support the local music community by showcasing the fantastic talent and original music of musicians living in the area. Nearly a year in the making, the CD is a catchy blend of musical styles, including the straightahead rock and blues of Charly Lopez from Playa Potrero, who recorded three original songs for the album: “Good Good Life”, “Esta Noche” and the Chuck Berry-inspired “Feels Good To Me.” Tamarindo’s Joe Hrbek and Luiz Paes Leme teamed up for
“Amor No Sabe Esperar,” featuring creative guitar work and vocals by Luiz alongside Joe’s sexy sax riffs. A Latin-pop fusion of textured, syncopated percussion and vocals is performed by The Latin Trio from Playas de Coco. The album also includes a contribution from Fatiniza, who is originally from Colombia but moved to Playa Flamingo (after a stint in Dubai), including her expressive “Marinero” and heartfelt “Our Own Song.” Tamela Hauer, also from Playas de Coco, gives us an upbeat Carlene Carterflavored “Keep Your Body Moving.” Bernal Gutierrez with his young daughter Margie and son Eliam, from Santa Cruz/Liberia, together sing a Disney-like original about the importance of dreams, called “Sueños.”
Tamarindo's Only New And Used BookStore 42
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Warren Alani from Liberia, and Mike DiNardo from Playa Hermosa, round out the collection with lovely, complementary instrumentals portraying the magnificence of the Guanacaste “Sunrise” (“Amanecer”) and “Sundown.” Música Genial was produced by Allen Merrill, owner of the Papagayo Music Studio (where the songs were recorded). Support came from several local sponsors, including Peninsula Papagayo and the Four Seasons and Andaz Hotels. To learn more about the Música Genial project or Papagayo Music Studio, visit www.papagayomusic.com
Monday - Saturday 8-4 (506) 2653-2670
alei@bookstoreofthewaves.net TheBookStoreoftheWaves
Stamps, mail delivery, free howlermag.com WiFi and so much more.
Educarte invites you to an afternoon of Art, Drama and Dance
March 26, 4pm, Educarte School, Open to the Public
info@educartecostarica.com • (506) 2653 - 6363
Be a Happier Community HOA management with integrity and transparency. We optimize our clients´ time and investments.
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 43
ARTS & ENTERTAINMENT
ALL IN ON COSTA RICA
SUPER PURA VIDA
TICO TIME ZONE
P
by Johnny Lahoud
The simplicity of life was sublime: surf, eat, rinse and repeat.
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arts 1 and 2 of this Howler series recounted my transition to living permanently in Costa Rica. First, came losing the seasonal job in my Rhode Island hometown that had sustained a good life of living part-time in both places for several years. Next came an inflow of cash during a lucky side trip to Las Vegas. So now, here is the “what for?” and “what next?” side of the story. My previous initiation to Costa Rica had been in Jacó at a time when only a handful of likeminded gringos were living in the area. Back then there were no condos or big hotels. The simplicity of life was sublime: surf, eat, rinse and repeat. Or, as a popular tourism slogan put it: “No artificial ingredients. No need to add anything.” When I returned to Jacó in 1997, supposedly for good, things were changing in the name of “progress.” The very fabric of pura vida was being rewoven into something that no longer seemed to fit. I decided to find a good wave somewhere else: a place to settle down into a tranquilo lifestyle that would allow me to grow old while making a living. My job would allow me to meet people from all over the world. Why travel when those people all come to you? So I traveled around camping and surfing the country before landing one fine November day in Playa Grande. The surf was epic and I knew right away this was my proverbial end of the rainbow. Upon coming down from the high of surfing my first four days, I started plotting for the future. There were very few cabinas, almost no restaurants and the closest supermarket was in Santa Cruz. In short, nothing but growth possibilities. I asked around about land at the local bar, Kike’s, and contacted a seller of lots
Part 3
across the street. The prices were good and I knew my idea could work. I would open “Super Pura Vida” — a one-stop compound that would allow me to live the dream. It was simple. First, put down a deposit and then find investors to buy into Playa Grande’s first supermarket, deli and cabinas. The plan was set in motion over a few beers and guaro shots at Kike’s. I decided to go all in with my recent Vegas wins and bet all I had to my name. A deposit of $4,000 gave me 16 months to pay the balance or walk away broke. It was now or never. With email and internet not yet mainstream modes of doing business, I started calling possible benefactors. After many a hang-up and rejection, I had almost given up when along came lady luck again. I met a guy at the Hotel Del Rey casino who was looking to move some dollars and invest in Costa Rica. It was a “don’t-ask/don’t-tell” deal, but who was I to look a lifesaver gift in the mouth? Beggars can’t be choosers and I had three months left to close the land deal or head back home. So that’s how I became a landowner in Playa Grande. After six months of running around for “permitting,” we finally broke ground. I traded in my truck for the payment to start construction. My partner was a building inspector and I learned how to build Tico style and in Tico time. The local saying "poco a poco" means “take things slow and enjoy the ride.” So I worked and surfed my way to the “Grande opening” of Super Pura Vida in December 1998. Real estate sales soon followed. I am so grateful for all the good fortune that got me to Puravidaville, and thank God every day for showing the path and guiding my way!
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 45
CR Biz
Rendering of the Marina in Limón Port courtesy of architect Freddy Alvarez Abarca.
LIMÓN REVITALIZED CR BIZ FEATURE
Beginnings of the best yet to come
by Fred Denton
New worlds of opportunity are coming into clearer view for the Limón area and the entire Caribbean coast. 46
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I
n launching its new CR Biz mini-magazine with the Sept/Oct 2018 cover story, “Limón Rising”, Howler looked at the port city’s brightening horizons as Costa Rica catapults into the big leagues of international shipping. With the worldclass Moín mega-container terminal inaugurated on February 28, new worlds of opportunity are coming into clearer view for the Limón area and entire Caribbean coast. Besides pumping much-needed capital into the local economy, the $1.1 billion state-of-theart Moín facility will add about 150,000 jobs and some $3 billion to the country’s Gross Domestic Product. From its current global ranking near the bottom of the barrel for quality international shipping terminals, Costa Rica is positioned to become a port and logistics leader in Central American and the Caribbean.
Costa Rica’s third economic engine The oft-beleaguered Limón province is turning a corner towards unprecedented vibrancy. Its status is imminent as Costa Rica’s third most powerful economic engine, behind Guanacaste as a tourism mecca and the San José metropolitan area as a business and commerce hub. In addition to revitalizing Limón as a community and boosting Costa Rica’s
international stature as trade and logistics force to be reckoned with, the Moín Container Terminal (MCT) presents an opportunity that rarely comes along in anyone’s career or lifetime. For those involved with the project, it’s the chance to participate in the development of an entire region of the country … one that has been marginalized or essentially forgotten, which is how many perceive the Caribbean area. Kenneth Waugh, General Manager of APM Terminals, the company spearheading the construction and operation of the terminal, sees tremendous potential for socioeconomic benefits throughout Limón province. In public statements, he has been optimistic about growth opportunities through the development of new businesses, services and industries in the region. Specifically, plans are in place to build a large free zone, as well as other smaller ones with logistics centers, warehousing and light assembly manufacturing. The prospect of billions of private sector dollars being invested in the Caribbean coast’s reawakening over the next decade has been likened to Guanacaste’s outlook 25 years ago, right before Liberia’s international airport started operating.
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Artist rendering of an outdoor/indoor space at the Tangara Limón Village, proposed to be less than five minutes from downtown Limón. Image courtesy of PARQ - Daniel Cisneros
New life comes with new projects Along with the Moín port facility comes new road construction in the area, paving the way for a significant tourism upturn. Currently, the hospitality sector in Limón province accounts for only 1,400 hotel rooms out of nearly 50,000 in the entire country (3 percent), mostly accommodations with 2-star or lower ratings. Meeting the future demand, thousands of new guest rooms will be required in both resort and business hotels that meet international standards.
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Significant investments in residential and commercial property are also coming Limón’s way. New housing construction estimates call for at least 250 class-A homes, condominiums and apartments to be built in and around Limón during each of the next five years, then 400 per year after that. Commercial property developers can anticipate influxes of new professionals and business owners by the thousands. Investment is needed to build class-A premises for supermarkets, commercial centers with convenience stores, bank branches, restaurants and retailers in the
personal care sector. Premium office space is now virtually non-existent in Limón, so a real estate boom can be expected for medical offices, legal and insurance firms, regional corporate headquarters call centers and much more. With the MCT project already kickstarting so much activity in these ambitious new directions, the future possibilities for Limón’s economy revving into high gear seem limitless: from cruise ship concessions, chandlery and security to transportation, engineering and mechanical support to training and education.
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 47
CR BIZ MINI-MAG
Rendering of a commercial center in Limón Port courtesy of architect Freddy Alvarez Abarca.
Below is a sample of already-announced projects. Capital and partners are being sought, and in some cases, expert service providers: Casino City Caribe - $400 million •
Mixed-use tourist development north of Moín
•
Includes three hotels with 264 rooms, three casinos and 219 apartments
•
Two convention and cultural centers also planned, plus wellness center, heliport and marina, with beach access
Tangara Limón Village - $35 million • •
Mixed-use, oceanfront development just 10 minutes from the new port and less than five minutes from downtown Limón Includes proposed Marriott-branded hotel, ballroom/meeting space for 300, retail shops, office space and private condos, all with unspoiled ocean views and easy beachfront access
Rendering of a hotel in Limón Port courtesy of architect Freddy Alvarez Abarca.
Marina and Tourism Reception Center - $100 million • •
Yacht club project developed on state property near the old Limón dock Includes hotel, shopping center, restaurants, heliport, amphitheater and docks
Free Zone La Francia - $20 million • •
Rendering of the Marina in Limón Port courtesy of architect Freddy Alvarez Abarca.
Urban infrastructure development on 124 hectares Includes the construction of roads, lots for industrial buildings, drainage, treatment plants and rainwater mitigation lagoons
Rendering of Casino City Caribe courtesy of Casino City Caribe.
Cancun-Style Hotel Zone - $40 million •
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Public-private initiative to develop Caribbean hotel zone on 500 hectares of coastal property south of Limón
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L
imón’s new MCT Project will not only compete head-to-head with Panama Canal ports but also provide backup to Panama ports in high demand periods. In addition, MCT will provide “breakdown” support to vessels serving regional ports with smaller maritime capacity. It will remain Nicaragua’s outlet for exports to the U.S. east coast and the Caribbean. Built and operated under a 30-year concession by APM Terminals, a division of the Dutch shipping firm Maersk, MCT offers important efficiency improvements to the Limón region for imports and exports. Initially it will be able to accommodate PostPanamax size container ships, four times larger than Costa Rica’s current maximum capacity. In future phases of development, Limón’s container terminal will be equipped to handle the world’s largest ships, the New Panamax 13,000 TEU (half-containers). Combined with the new $1 billion container port, other projects — already under construction or planned — add up to $5 billion of new investment in the Limón region: • • • • • • • •
Elevated access road - $72 million Reventazón hydroelectric plant - $1.2 billion (inaugurated April 2016) New AMEGA intermodal port - $1 billion New international airport $700 - $1 billion Expansion and modernization of Ruta 32 - $500 million Railway improvements - $450 million Petroleum port - $100 million New cruise ship terminal and renovation of Limón center $100 million plus
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CR BIZ
Starting a Business? ENTREPRENEUR COSTA RICA
Differences Between Product and Service Companies
M
by Laura Galvin
any entrepreneurs in Costa Rica may not consider all the differences between launching a product-based or service-based business. Examples of product-based businesses are clothing boutiques, electronics stores, packaged foods or any business that sells a tangible item. Service-based business examples are mechanics, fitness trainers, consultants or any business where the owner or employees are selling a skill or performing a task. We’re going to compare the two types of business models to help those planning to start their own company decide what is best for them. First, let’s talk about investment money. Generally, a service-based business will have lower start-up costs than a product-based business. A lot of money goes into purchasing enough products to stock your store or developing your product if you are making something unique. Knowing how much to start with can be a gamble; then if you do start selling, you’ll be constantly reinvesting to keep products in stock. Service-based businesses will have to invest in the tools needed to perform the service, and sometimes education or training, but those are long-term career investments and not just business start-up costs. Standard legal costs and income tax are an expected expense for both, but in Costa Rica only products
are charged a 13 percent sales tax to the buyer. A store or office location is another cost to consider, unless you are only selling wholesale, or can operate digitally with an e-commerce website or popular social media page. The only difference is that while many services can be performed remotely or by appointment, physical products require a reliable way to deliver items. Costa Rica’s Correos service is improving but has some limitations, so shipping should be considered when starting an online store here. It is essential to also consider your target audience and customer experience when deciding between a brick and mortar location or digital presence. Having a physical location or not can make a significant difference to foreign business owners in Costa Rica. While you can start a business as a nonresident here, you can only work in a managerial role. So if you open a shop or restaurant, you must hire a local resident to be your cashier or waiter. Marketing strategies will differ slightly; for products, business owners should focus heavily on building a strong brand that speaks to their target audience. Service businesses should focus on providing an excellent experience for their clients, and build their brand and marketing campaign around this. Either way, investing in
your company’s branding and marketing will go a long way in the success of any business. The last important difference between product and service businesses lies with growth and scalability. Selling products is a unit-based billing system while selling a service is a time-based billing system. This can really limit the expansion of service businesses. When product businesses gain popularity, they start stocking more products and selling more units, and can expand into different markets through distribution. Expanding your services, on the other hand, requires finding more employees with the necessary skills and managing them, which can be challenging depending on the complexity of the skills required. Now you know the pros and cons of each type of business, and can decide which is best for your entrepreneurial venture in Costa Rica. Or, if you already have a service business and are looking to expand, try offering products, or vice versa. There are plenty of businesses that can cross over into both categories, such as a photographer that offers sessions by the hour, but also sells prints of their photography. Diversifying your income streams by offering both a service and products is a smart way to increase profits and capitalize on an audience once you have them engaged.
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Water desalination plant
Reserva Conchal: Preserving a Vital Resource DOING BUSINESS RIGHT
Continuous Efforts and New Technology are the Tools by Laura Galvin
Assurance that the best water practices are used comes from constant regulation. 52
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uanacaste may be the driest region in Costa Rica, but Reserva Conchal works hard to preserve and take care of this precious natural resource. It’s a place where eco-conscious business leaders not only care about water but also help the surrounding communities get more water. The popular residential community, hotels and golf course comprising Reserva Conchal are all provided water sustainably by multiple on-site resources. Reserva Conchal has potable wells for its residents and guests as well as for the public Hospital Metroplitano, fire station, and food bank. Reserva Conchal invested around $2,500,000 in the first desalination plant in the country. It produces water for irrigation use, or human consumption, through a remineralization process after the desalination of the water. Reserva Conchal is the only resort in the area using this technology, again leading the way with groundbreaking sustainable practice. With the W Hotel now open, a goal for the near future is to be directing much of that water to the stylish new hotel’s drinking water supply. There’s nothing more trendy than being green, so having the W’s water supply come from a desalination plant will soon make the hotel even more chic. Water from the wells is an extremely valuable resource, and none of it goes to waste at Reserva Conchal. In fact, all residual water is reused after being treated, and all black water from the Westin, W and the condominiums is processed and cleaned for reuse in irrigation.
There are two treatment plants at Reserva Conchal that handle all of this water to make it good for irrigation, ensuring it is used and reused to maximum potential. Reserva Conchal does continuous operational reports based on the Ministry of Health legal guidelines requested. The AyA (Acueductos y Alcantarillados) certifies Reserva Conchal through its Quality Sanitary Seal, which is a voluntary certification that states that the water meets the national standards for human consumption. Assurance that the best water practices are used comes from constant regulation of use with water meters, revision of tanks and 24/7 supervision to find leaks as soon as they happen. In 2016 Reserva Conchal donated the Nimboyores aqueduct to AyA, which benefitted communities in the area. This project now supplies water to AyA and the ASADAs (rural water boards) for the local communities that are connected to this aqueduct. In Guanacaste, where some communities don’t have a drop of drinkable water in dry season, this was life changing for many. World Water Day is a time to remember that safe, clean water is a universal human right. Reserva Conchal’s goal has always been to leave no one in our extended community behind, and to lead by example with ways to manage water in the most efficient, fair ways possible. Water is a precious resource that everyone must work to protect.
Photos courtesy of Reserva Conchal
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orld Water Day is celebrated each year on March 22, reminding us of the importance of safe, clean water for all. This year’s theme is “Leaving no one behind”, raising awareness about the injustice of billions of people around the world, often marginalized groups, who do not have safe access
to drinking water. As declared by UN-Water, coordinating agency for the United Nations' work on water and sanitation, it’s an adaptation of the central promise of the 2030 Agenda for Sustainable Development: as sustainable development progresses, everyone must benefit.
Inspiring a better way of living www.reservaconchal.com #s earchf indh owl
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INVESTMENT CHAT WITH NATIVU
Purpose-Based Real Estate investing
by Fabricio Riggioni
This process is also kind of fun. It allows you to dream and create at the same time.
A
purpose-based real estate portfolio will allow you to measure your success with more than just the standard industry’s financial ratios, such as Cap (capitalization) Rate, Net Operating Income or Cash on Cash Returns. Instead, you will be able to measure a specific investment decision against the purposes that you have already defined as the backbone of your decision-making process. These purposes will vary depending on your age, risk tolerance, current financial situation, and most importantly, how clear you are about your life purposes and what it takes to accomplish them. This process is also kind of fun. It allows you to dream and create at the same time. Furthermore, your life purposes don’t need to be a huge list on a sheet of paper. They can simply be in a short paragraph on how you envision the rest of your life, and the steps needed to achieve that lifestyle. The key is to assimilate this information into a short paragraph and acknowledge that your investment decisions will follow the steps outlined for yourself, rather than only looking at the Net Income line in your excel spreadsheet. You will now play in another league when it comes down to purpose-based investing. This is the three-step process I use when working with investor clients and managing their real estate portfolios with a purpose-based investing approach 1. What’s your purpose and what have you done to accomplish it?
Answers to this question will flow like a huge river on a steep mountain, both for lifestyle and financial purposes. Once you know how you want to spend your time, efforts and money, you might realize that most of the decisions you have made so far have not been the right ones. I see many clients
who have accumulated tons of financial wealth, but have done a poor job serving their lifestyle purpose. It’s a huge eye-opener. In this step, we also analyze your current portfolio and lay out the plan for changing it. We take into consideration the current financial situation, liquidity and type of assets that we’ll need to seek or keep in our portfolio to obtain the life we want for ourselves. 2. Plan execution: Patience, patience and more patience If you’re new to purpose-based investing, one of the hardest things to do is pass on deals that you know look good on the spreadsheet but don’t serve your overall plan. There will always be good opportunities in the market, whether economic times are good or bad, as long as you stick to the plan laid out in Step 1. Just be ready to jump on the deal that will benefit your lifestyle and the ones around you. Have your team of expert lawyers, architects and real estate professionals ready to go and make it happen. 3. Ongoing revision: Life changes every day, so make your portfolio flexible. The lifestyle purposes you have now are very different from the ones you had 10 years ago. So why should your real estate portfolio not change accordingly? Try to do a deep analysis every six months. Take into consideration the purpose-based investment process, along with the traditional financial analysis required to make your portfolio successful. Always remember, LIVE HAPPY. INVEST WISELY! Please contact NATIVU if you want to learn more about “purpose-based investment”.
• howl| Investment Consultant: Fabricio Riggioni Phone: (506) howlermag.com 8301-0663 • Email: fabricio@nativu.com 54NATIVU | #searchfind online
ONE OF A KIND
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O N LY $ 1 9 P E R S Q U A R E M E T E R ! Exclusively Offered by:
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PRIME COMMERCIAL PROPERTY - HUACAS, GUANACASTE
Opportunity of the Month $995,000
3,500m2 Lot
Electricity
PLAYA GRANDE
FLAMINGO
TAMARINDO
HACIENDA PINILLA
LIR AIRPORT
10 MIN
15 MIN
20 MIN
25 MIN
60 MIN
Water
Huacas, Guanacaste: Best Commercial Property Available INVESTMENT CHAT WITH NATIVU
by Fabricio Riggioni
T
he best commercial corner in the Huacas area just became available! Hundreds of vehicles pass by this corner property every day on their way to Tamarindo, Flamingo, Playa Grande and other well-known exotic beaches in Costa Rica, as well as on the way to Liberia airport.
Location Analysis
It's no secret that Guanacaste has become a world-class destination and Huacas is in the middle of it all. Huacas has experienced enormous growth in the last three years. New businesses have decided to establish their operations in this city and it's rapidly becoming one of the most important intersections in Guanacaste.
Property Analysis
The current owner has put this property’s income potential to the test during the past year, and it has been a huge success. Four fast food restaurants, one fruit stand and three signed deals have emerged, with a small investment in infrastructure for the vacant land. All of these businesses are doing really well and are enjoying the prime property location. The potential is limitless. You can continue with the current owner's vision and enlarge the current rental income or make a bigger investment and turn this property into a mixed-use building. The property has six electricity and two water meters installed already.
Nativu Analysis
This is one of the best deals under $1 million in the area, and a great short-medium term investment for the right investor with the right vision. We have applied some financial models to different scenarios for usage of the property; please feel free to contact us and we will share our research with you.
Contact Nativu for detailed breakdown. +506 8301-0663 | fabricio@nativu.com | #searchfindhowl| online
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CR BIZ MINI-MAG
Lighting Your Life BUILDING COSTA RICA
Natural and Artificial Have Their Place
by Tatiana Vandruff
Eco-consciousness is as relevant to natural light by design as it is an artificial lighting concern.
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ncorporating as much natural light as possible in your living space is a universally desirable building design goal. Even if the outdoor view or weather leave something to be desired, natural light generally has a positive influence on people’s physical and mental wellbeing. Add to many Costa Rican homes a spectacular vista of the ocean, rainforest, mountains or exotic backyard garden and it doesn’t get much better. Seeking home design features that optimize the lighting, view and exposure to all things tropical is a given. Natural lighting, naturally, is synonymous with lots of large windows to the outside and open spaces within walls. That is not to say their placement is as simple or straightforward as it may seem. Decisions about proper location of windows and walls cannot be made randomly, nor is lighting a stand-alone factor. With sun exposure comes weather-related considerations for
Watts Minimum 40 60 75 100 150
temperature, humidity and air flow. Improper placement of windows can hinder conditions for cooling and natural cross-ventilation, with a detrimental impact on energy efficiency. That means eco-consciousness is as relevant to natural light by design as it is an artificial lighting concern. As with any sustainable living strategies, we recommend consulting with an architect or other accredited professional. In the same vein, artificial lighting is not necessarily an easy afterthought aspect of home design limited to placement of power outlets and wall switches. Increased emphasis on energy savings has widened the consumer options but with no less need for strategic planning. Beyond the overriding green goal of shunning incandescent lamps altogether, think carefully about the type and quality of artificial lighting best suited to specific locations and situations.
Lumens 450 800 1100 1600 2600
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BUILD BETTER. LEED Accredited Award Winning Architects Essentially, artificial lighting falls into three categories: ambient (general), accent (creating focal points) and task (specific). All three types may be needed somewhere in your home, indoors and outdoors, ideally with independent controls that might include dimmers or sensors. It is no secret that electricity in Costa Rica is very expensive. On average, according to the service provider ICE (Costa Rican Electricity Institute), lighting accounts for almost 15 percent of your energy usage. Here, as in most parts of the world, power reduction measures have made more types of energy-efficient lamps available and more affordable. In an effort to eliminate the use of incandescent light bulbs, CFLs (compact fluorescent lamps) and LED (light emitting diodes) have become increasingly common and less expensive. They consume a fraction of the energy and last 25 times longer than incandescent lights, with long-term cost savings of up to 75 percent. Knowing which type and brightness of energy-efficient
bulbs you need is important when making a first-time or replacement purchase. Check the package label for lumens (brightness indicator) instead of watts (energy use). A basic guide appears on the opposite page. The other key factor in lamp selection is color temperature, measured on the Kelvin scale ranging between 2700K and 6500K. The lower the K value the warmer the color rendition (warm yellow, soft white), while lamps with higher K value are cooler (more bluish tone). Soft white light is ideal for all areas that are not task oriented, and cool light is best for areas needing great general lighting for the job at hand. Keep in mind that warmer light gives a softer look to surfaces as cool light diminishes ambiance, making spaces feel more stark and sterile. It’s also advisable not to mix lamp color temperatures sharing the same control (light switch) for the same application. With artificial light combined with natural light, you can create the perfect ambiance for any space, day or night.
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Sustainable Architecture Interior Architecture Project Management Planning, Permitting, Construction
We’re Proud to Present Another Sustainable Project
Electricity - 95% Solar (PV) Operated OVERSEAS PACIFIC REALTY New Costa Rica Offices Playa Flamingo - Guanacaste (506) 2666-3306 info@grupopacificocr.com www.grupopacificocr.com HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 59
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Tighter Controls in Force LEGAL EASE
SUGEF Oversees More Economic Activities
S
tronger laws to combat money laundering and financing of terrorism in Costa Rica now apply to a wider range of economic activities that must be registered with the General Superintendence of Financial Institutions (SUGEF). A new regulation, SUGEF Agreement 11-18, was approved in October 2018 by the National Council for Financial System Supervision (CONASSIF) and became effective on January 1, 2019. The individuals and entities specified below become obligated to register their activities with SUGEF on the dates indicated. These activities are described in Articles 15 and 15 bis of Costa Rica’s Law 7786, known as the “Drug, Money Laundering and Financing of Terrorism Law.” Modifications to the law in 2017 aimed to expand the range of individuals or entities subject to CONASSIF supervision. Calls for similar “gatekeeper legislation” around the world had become more strenuous from the international Financial
Action Task Force (FATF). Costa Rica’s law 7786 previously applied only to financial institutions and entities that managed thirdparty funds. The new law extends to Designated Non-Financial Activities and Professions (DNFBs), relating to the FATF’s evaluation of Costa Rica in 2015. Article 15 bis of Law 7786 stipulates which individuals and legal entities involved with DNFBPs must submit to
Law 7786 previously applied only to financial institutions and entities that managed thirdparty funds. SUGEF registration and supervision by SUGEF, including: • Trust administrators or any kind of money management structure • Intermediaries, owners or builders in
Economic Activity
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by Ivan Granados
the real estate business in a habitual manner • Dealers of precious metals and stones • Lawyers, notaries, accountants and any others carrying out the following on behalf of clients: • Purchase or sale of real estate • Money management Although the same legislation applies to Notary Publics, they are excluded from SUGEF supervision. Instead, they will be supervised by a specialized unit of Dirección Nacional de Notarios (General Directorate of Notaries). Failure to comply with the new SUGEF regulation carries the risk of severe administrative and economic sanctions and significant reputational consequences. For more information about the SUGEF registration requirements and other aspects, contact your lawyer or email us at info@gmattorneyscr.com.
As Provided in SUGEF 11-18
Registration Starts
Issuers and credit card operators
Article 4, subparagraph f)
January 2019
Merchants of metals and precious stones and pawnshops
Article 5, subparagraphs c) and h), respectively
January 2019
Accountants, lawyers and other individuals or legal entities when they carry out the following activities: • purchase and sale of real estate. • administration of money, bank accounts, savings or other assets of the client, for the amount less than the significant amount determined in SUGEF Agreement 11-18. • operation, the administration of the purchase and sale of legal entities or other legal structures.
Article 5, subparagraph e)
February 2019
Physical or virtual casinos (operating from Costa Rica), the granting of any type of credit facility and fiduciary service providers
Article 5, subparagraphs a), f) and g), respectively
March 2019
Individuals or legal entities that engage professionally and regularly in the purchase and sale of real estate; and non-profit organizations that send or receive money from internationally classified risk jurisdictions
Article 5, subparagraphs b) and d), respectively
April 2019
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CR BIZ DIRECTORY Real Estate, Property Management
Playa Tamarindo 7 days a week, 9-5 2653-0073 www.remax-oceansurf-cr.com
SPECIAL PLACES COSTA RICA Property Management & Rentals Full management, rental and concierge services Flamingo and Playas del Coco Mon-Sat, 8-5 2654-4493 / 2670-2198 specialplaces@crvr.net
RE/MAX OCEAN VILLAGE Making Dreams Come True Experienced professional real estate sales team serving the entire Papagayo region Playas del Coco, Ocotal, Playa Hermosa, Playa Panama Daily, 8-5 2670-2175 remax-oceanvillage-cr.com
KRAIN Luxury Real Estate Member of Leading Real Estate Companies of the World Ocotal, Flamingo, Potrero Daily 8-5 2654-4010 info@kraincostarica.com
PLAYA HERMOSA
HORIZON PACIFIC Property Management and Rentals A leader in quality properties and services: Vacation rentals, management, association administration Tamarindo, Plaza Palmas #17 Mon-Sat, 9-5, Sun 9-2 2653-0390 horizonpacificvacations.com
RE/MAX OCEAN SURF & SUN Nobody Sells More Real Estate Sales of residential condos, homes and single-family home sites
OCOTAL
Tamarindo & Flamingo Mon-Fri, 8-5 2654-4004 / 8407-1898 info@plantacionproperties.com
REAL ESTATE & PROPERTY MANAGEMENT
REAL ESTATE & PROPERTY MANAGEMENT
CHRISTIE'S International Real Estate Specializing in Costa Rica real estate for over 27 years
Flamingo, Potrero, Tamarindo Daily 8-5 2654-4010 info@kraincostarica.com
PLAYAS DEL COCO
KRAIN Luxury Real Estate Member of Leading Real Estate Companies of the World
ABC REAL ESTATE Fine Selections by the Beach We offer personalized service and a full range of real estate services Plaza Tamarindo Mon-Fri, 9-5, Sat, 9-1 2653-0404 tamarindo@abccostarica.com
BROKERS COSTA RICA Property Management & Rentals We specialize in luxury rentals and property management Hermosa del Mar Plaza #7 Mon-Fri, 8-5, Sat, 8-noon 4702-7098 / 2665-8746 info@costarica-brokers.com
RESTAURANT DIRECTORY
200m west of Super Compro Daily, 6-9 7028-3264 / 8911-2191 Jimemurillo98@hotmail.com
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RIP JACK INN Surfing, Yoga and Tree Top Dining 75m off the beach Eat, Sleep, Stretch, Surf Playa Grande Daily, 8am-9:30pm, Sunday Brunch, Happy Hour 4-6 2653-1636 ripjackinn.com
PLAYA GRANDE
SODA GUAYMY Typical & Rustic Food Breakfast, lunch, dinner and drinks
PLAYA GRANDE
HUACAS
SODA GUAYMY
POTS & BOWLS Jungle Coffee Shop Breakfast, Lunch - with vegan options. Organic wine - cold pressed juice and new smoothie menu, plants nursery & artisanal boutique. Playa Grande, Main Road Daily, 8am-5pm 4701-2394
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COMMUNITY & SERVICES DIRECTORY
GUANACASTE DENTAL Comprehensive Dental Care Advanced family, implant and cosmetic dental services Tamarindo - Garden Plaza Mon-Fri, 9-7, Sat, by appointment 2215-5715, US (866) 978-8305 info@guanacastedental.com guanacastedental.com
GRAPHIC DESIGN
TAMARINDO DENTIST First Dentist in Tamarindo Implants • Orthodontist • Endodontist • Cosmetic Dentistry Tamarindo 24/7 for emergencies 2653-2020 smile@tamarindodentist.com
FITNESS
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DENTAL SERVICES
BUILDING SUPPLIES
M&G DE HUACAS Marble, Granite and Quartz Custom countertop, highest quality and materials, free inspection and quote 50m east, 150m north, 75m west Huacas Community Center M-F, 7:30-5, Sat, 7:30-2 8840-3815 litomtz74@gmail.com
DENTAL SERVICES
BOOKSTORE
THE BOOKSTORE OF THE WAVES New and Used Bookstore Stamps, mail delivery, free WiFi and so much more Tamarindo 2653-2670 Alei@bookstoreofthewaves.net TheBookStoreoftheWaves
PACIFIC SMILE DENTAL CARE Kids & Adults - English Speaking Highly experienced staff— orthodontics, implants, endodontics, gums Near Auto Mercado, Tamarindo Mon-Fri 9-6, Sat by appt. 2653-4354 info@pacificsmilecr.com
EVENT PLANNING
Tamarindo and Flamingo Mon-Fri, 9-1, 2-5 2654-4367 / 2653-2155 info@gmattorneyscr.com
DENTALSERVICES SERVICES DENTAL
ATTORNEY
GM ATTORNEYS Legal Services Full service in all areas of law
CEPIA Nonprofit Organization We promote culture, health, sports and education for children Huacas Mon-Sat 2653-8365 cepiacostarica@gmail.com
COMMERCIAL SPACE
ARCHITECT ABARCA Freddy Alvarez Abarca Blueprints, construction plans, technical direction, 3D modeling, and construction Limón City 8847-6649, 2758-1048 estudio@sisarquitectura.com sisarquitectura.com
COMMUNITY
ARCHITECT
ARCHITECT ABARCA
COMMERCIAL SPACE FOR RENT Beautiful New Construction: 80m2, 1 bathroom and storage space Tamarindo Main Road 8636-9784 marielagalvan@hotmail.com
Mar Holístico
MAR HOLÍSTICO COSTA RICA Wellness Tours & Event Planning Wendy Abarca 8390-5375 marholisticocr@gmail.com marholisticocr.com
AQUAFIT AquaFit Yoga is a total mind+body workout through aerobics and yoga in the water. Come and try it! Pool at Leora Pacifico Residence Varies - see class schedule hiltz.steph@gmail.com 8839-7251 001-647-444-1495 www.tinyurl.com/aquafityoga
CARACOLA GRÁFICA Eduardo Gamboa Art. Graphic Design and Music Villarreal, Guanacaste 8330-1687 eduardogamboa.djflix@gmail @caracolagrafica
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COMMUNITY & SERVICES DIRECTORY PHOTOGRAPHY
MUSIC PRODUCER
GRAPHIC DESIGN
Graffiti supplies, Professional services of textile screen printing and project management of urban art Barrio Escalante, San José 8647-0678 elhidrantecr@gmail.com @elhidrante, @ElHidrante
Música a la Leña Ignacio Barrantes Jiménez. Audiovisual Producer Santa Barba, Heredia and all over Costa Rica 8536-0475 / 8336-5899 musicaalalena@gmail.com @musica_a_la_lena @musicaalaleña
SHAKA MEDIA Photography Services Shaka Foods - Tamarindo 8330-5436 Shakamediainfo@gmail.com @shakamedia @ShakaMediaCR
CARLOS PALACIOS
GUSTAVO JIMENEZ Surf Photography, Wildlife, Portraits, Landscape, Art Photography Playa Avellanas, Guanacaste 8384-6198 bagheera_05@yahoo.com selvaazulphoto.com @Selva_Azul Gustavo Jiménez Selva Azul
PEST CONTROL
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GALLO PINTO TV Esteban Delgado Surf, aerial and water photography and videos. Playa Grande, Guanacaste - 24/7 8622-4036 & 2282-6429 estebandg7@gmail.com @estebandelgadophoto @dg7photo
SOUND & BREATH
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CARLOS PALACIOS Surf Photography Capturing Pura Vida Based in Playa Santa Teresa 8338-3057 insecto@gmail.com www.insectoart.com Carlos Palacios Photography @insecto
SCHOOL
GIANNINA OLIVARES Yoga, Advertising and Energy Healing Yoga for kids and energy healing with crystals and use of pendulum. Strategic advertising and digital consulting. Office - Costa Rica 8906 4929 divinopropósito@gmail.com @divinoproposito @gianninaolivares
PHOTOGRAPHY
MARKETING & YOGA
DIVINO PROPOSITO
PHOTOGRAPHY
MARKETING SERVICES
NOMAD DESIGN HOUSE Marketing, Design, Implementation Logos & brand development, print material, web development & design, SEO & full-service marketing. Office - Costa Rica 6282-6635 info@nomaddesignhouse.com nomaddesignhouse.com
PHOTOGRAPHY
INSURANCE
ALL INSURANCE CR - TAMARINDO Health, Auto, Homeowners and More Offering the best coverage with customer service a priority Across from Auto Mercado Mon-Sat, 8-5 2653-4300 / 973-536-1191 (24/7) info@allinsurancecr.com
PHOTOGRAPHY
EDUCARTE Preschool, Primary, Secondary Private bilingual school 5km south of Huacas Mon-Fri, 8-3:30 2653-6363 info@educartecostarica.com PURA VIDA VIBRATIONS Sound Baths, Breath Work & More The power of Sound and Breath Work. These activities lead to a state of total relaxation and introspection in which healing and connection to our higher consciousness take place. Tamarindo Call for appointment 8828-8947 / 8812-0100 hello@puravidavibrations.com puravidavibrations.com Pura Vida Vibrations @puravidavibrations
CABO VELAS PEST CONTROL Pest Control - English Speaking Bug Busters is now Cabo Velas Pest Control with 10 years of experience El Llanito, Villarreal Mon-Fri, 7-4 8416-4860 / 8702-6807 bamboopq@yahoo.ca
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TRAVEL & ADVENTURE TRAVEL & ADVENTURE
B FIT RETREAT Training, surf and adventure Tamarindo Adapted to tides and activities 8720-0438 www.bfitretreat.com bfitretreat @bfitretreat
Sailing for the Sophisticated Traveler Rated #1 Boat in Costa Rica. Flamingo Marina Daily, call for reservations 8510-1691 /US: 917-231-2587 info@sailingcostarica.com www.sailingcostarica.com
CAVALLINI VETERINARIAN Animal Hospital Full-service veterinarian hospital for all animals and wildlife Royal Palms Plaza, Santa Rosa M-F, 8-noon, 1-7, Sat, 8-12, 1-4, Sun, 9-noon, 1-5 (pet shop only) 2652-9009 / 8815-5713 (24/7)
THE DOGTOR Vet, Grooming & Pet Shop Export proceedings, delivery, pick-up and drop-off service Plaza Palmas #3, Tamarindo Mon-Sat, 8-5 8351-9910 / 4702-5106 thedogtortamarindo@gmail.com
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Photo: Carlos Palacios
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BRAULIO CARRILLO • JACÓ
Aerial Tram Hanging Bridge Zip Line Gardens Tapirus Lodge and more...
15% OFF
Book adventures online at rainforestadventure.com
Book lodge online at tapiruslodge.com Discount code:
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Onsite, phone or email reservations, 10% discount
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DINING GUIDE GUIDE DINING HOWLER
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Costa Rica Living mini-mag p.17 #s earchf indh owl
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HOWLER
CO N T E N T S Dining Guide
Local Eatery - The Soda
4 - Dining Guide Feature: Tico Style - Digging into the Soda 7 - Simply Spanish: Visiting a Soda 10 - Tico Style continued: Soda Tapia - An Urban Legend 16 - Tico Style continued: Soda El Coco - A Typical Soda Story
Cover Story
Restaurants
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|1 HM HOWLER MAGAZINE
H
OWLER pays tribute to a colorful soda lost. Sodas are the place that tourists and locals like to visit time and time again. Locals rent places to build the soda of their dreams and when the time comes to renew their contract, many have to deal with the disappointment of having to move somewhere else or close their business. This was the case with Soda Guetto Girl in Puerto Viejo, which unfortunately no longer exists. The colorful place was demolished and there is a new structure being built instead.
6 - Tamarindo/Langosta - El Barco 6 - Tamarindo - Barefoot 7 - Tamarindo - The Roof 7 - Playa Grande - Pots & Bowls 7 - Playa Grande - El Oasis Chill Out and Lodge 8 - Palm Beach - Bula Bula 9 - Villarreal - Black Stallion 9 - Huacas - New York Pizza 9 - Huacas - La Playita Restaurant 11 - Brasilito - Lucy’s Retired Surfer Bar & Restaurant 12 - Surfside / Potrero - Nasu Restaurant 12 - Surfside / Potrero - The Beach House 13 - Las Catalinas - Sentido Norte 14- Flamingo - Margaritaville: 5 o’Clock Somewhere Bar 14 - Flamingo - Margaritaville: Banana Wind Cafe 14 - Flamingo - Margaritaville: Capriccios Pizza Bistro & Cafe 15 - Flamingo - Marie’s Restaurant 15 - Flamingo - Vaca Loka Italian Restaurant 15 - Playas del Coco - Coconutz Bar & Grill HOWLER Costa Rica Living
FRUIT STAND SPANISH Spanish
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17 Pura Vida: Costa Rica Living
18 - Spanish: Visiting the Fruit and Vegetable Stand 20 - Wellness: Water Workouts Offer Great Benefits 22 - The Doctor Is In: Heat Emergencies 23 - Simply Spanish: Out and About 24 - Yogapedia: Bhujangasana: Cobra Pose 26 - Fashion Flash: Beach Cowboys 28 - Animal Life: Signs of Change in Your Aging Pet
FIESTA STYLE
Fashion Flash 2 | #searchfindhowl| online
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Splendor del Pacifico PROPERTY SALES AND RENTALS
Condominium and Penthouses starting at $320,000 / 1 + 1 • $495,000 / 2 + 2 • $1,090,000 / 3 + 3 • $1,250,000 penthouses
Golf Cart Rental & Sales Half day $45 Full day $59 Weekly $354 Monthly $1062
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Digging into the
Soda
TICO STYLE
Costa Ricas' Local Eatery by Sylvia Barreto Benites
Sodas offer their share of comfort food.
W
hen you think back to your hometown, there is probably an eatery that represents the taste of you and your neighbors. Coming from Long Island, I would say it’s the local pizzeria, or a diner or maybe even a local chain restaurant like the Waffle House or Bojangles. In Costa Rica it is undeniably the local soda. Every town or pueblo has a few. They all serve the same fare at reasonable prices. Sodas are where local Ticos go for breakfast or lunch every day, similar to the American cafe. You can count on them serving homestyle typical Costa Rican black bean dishes with an ever-changing collection of side dishes and Tico comfort foods. It all dates back to the creation of carbonated beverages, with the American tradition of “soda fountains” at the heart of popular refreshment spots. Originally, pharmacists used carbonation
Soda Sabanero - roadside soda between Huacas and Villarreal
and flavoring to soften the flavor of bitter medicines, which patients could drink in prepared mixtures right at the drug store counter. Soon, customers could order food and snacks with their soda fountain drinks on the same premises. Ultimately, health officials outlawed the practice of eating inside pharmacies due to sanitation issues. But that’s how the soda we know today in Costa Rica was born.
Lots of variation in the basics All sodas serve basically the same dishes, no matter where you are, although the flavors and methods of cooking vary. Some sodas don’t even have menus because they only serve two main dishes, and most have a dish of the day. Breakfast is always gallo pinto (rice and beans cooked together) and any number of side choices. You can add eggs, plantains, fried cheese, tortillas and
Casado: Married man on a platter?
T
he iconic lunch staple on soda menus, casado translates directly as “married man.” In culinary terms, it’s a dish consisting of rice and beans cooked separately, a protein portion of chicken, beef, pork or fish, both a cooked and fresh veggie serving, plus a homemade (“house special”) fruit drink. Your protein option can be asado (grilled), a la plancha (pan cooked with a little oil), frito (fried), en salsa (in gravy or a light tomato sauce) or al ajillo (pan cooked with garlic).
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natilla (sour cream), but also order chicken or beef in sauce. Lunch is a casado (see opposite page). Most sodas are not open for dinner, but those that are, normally have a much more extensive menu. Daily specials can include any number of options. Arroz con pollo (chicken and rice), served with refried black beans and a salad, is not the traditional Latin American recipe but closer to a chicken stir-fry. Arroz con camarones, served with french fries, is a cilantro-kissed rice and shrimp dish that just gets better as you get closer to the ocean. Another classic is pargo entero, a fried whole snapper with eyes and all intact. To experience true home cooking, arrive at your local soda on a Sunday — chances are they will be serving olla carne. This beef soup takes hours of preparation to cook the rump roast for pulled beef, then copious amounts of root vegetables, corn and plantains. Served with yellow rice, this hearty dish will surely make you think of grandma.
Come for some comfort food Just like the soda fountain of yesteryear and today’s diner, Costa Rican sodas offer their share of comfort food. On the
menu are french fries and the illusive salchipapas: potato fries topped with sliced hot dogs smothered in ketchup, mayonnaise or Salsa Lizano … or all three if you are truly brave. Traditional sodas, such as in Brasilito, serve gallitos — a single corn tortilla with fried sausage, fried cheese or any number of options. Nowadays, sodas often offer Mexican fare as well: nachos, quesadillas and tacos. When ordering a taco, keep in mind it will be like nothing you might expect unless you have actually been to Mexico. The handheld hard taco is not a Mexican invention, but I am sure Texas and California would have a standoff if I declared one of them the rightful inventor! Instead, Mexico’s flauta is a fried corn tortilla in the shape of a flute and containing meat. It is then buried under cabbage and the abovementioned sauces. You have to eat your way through the salad to get to the deliciously fried morsel inside. In sodas along the coast, you will find locally prepared ceviche made with the local catch of the day. Chifrijo can now be found in many sodas, the name derived from its two main ingredients: chicharron (fried pork) and frijoles (beans, in this case, large red beans). Continued on page 10
Typical soda in a Costa Rica mall
Ceviche served with patacones
Chifrijo
Fresh pargo entero with salad and patacones
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 5
DINING GUIDE
TAMARINDO / LANGOSTA
Hotel Capitán Suizo, Playa Tamarindo Hours Daily, noon to 9:30pm Mon, 7-9pm, Live Marimba Wed, 7-9pm, Avellino Fri, 7-9pm, Live Marimba Phone: 2653-0075 restaurante @hotelcapitansuizo.com Specialties Healthy dishes made from scratch with local and fresh products All taxes included in price
TAMARINDO
Calle Del Parque at the curve between Condo Diria and Balcones del Pacifico Hours Daily, 5:30pm to 10pm Closed Tuesdays Phone: 7006-1476 www.tamarindobarefoot.com Specialties A tropical fusion experience of seafood, fish, meats, and vegetarian dishes with gluten free and vegan options Order/reserve online
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El Barco Del Capitán: European-Tico Fusion, Beachfront Restaurant El Barco del Capitán is nestled in a beautiful tropical garden within the Hotel Capitán Suizo and offers a modern, healthy and fresh cuisine. Our chef, Jujo Molina, has created the dishes inspired by his European heritage and the incredible products available in Costa Rica. Using our homegrown ingredients from our organic garden, we strive to offer an environmentally friendly menu and an authentic experience to our guests.
MENU SELECTIONS Tacos Carne (Lunch)
$15
Tartar Capitan (Dinner)
$13
The Veggie (Lunch)
$15
Linguini (Dinner)
$23
Lomito (Dinner)
$28
Beef in tortillas with mixed cabbage salad, guacamole and tamarindo sauce Grilled portobello, tomato, zucchini, chilealmonds-garlic sauce, homemade bun
Calamari Crujientes (Snack) $13
Crispy calamari with homemade green pesto and a honey, red onion escabèche
Tuna and mango tartar with capers and a cilantro, ginger and soy dressing
Calamari, jumbo shrimps, mussels, Spanish chorizo, cherry tomatoes, white wine 200gr of tenderloin with a tamarind sauce over Swiss Roësti and vegetables
BAREFOOT Restaurant-Lounge: Poolside and Garden Deck Dining
Tropical oasis apart from the noise and crowds of Tamarindo's main street, where you can experience a quiet dinner and a relaxing lounge atmosphere. You can choose the garden deck or our Costa Rican rancho "Shakalaka" poolside deck. Make reservations online or call, or place an order online for pickup, delivery or special order.
MENU SELECTIONS Pico Poke (G)
$9.50
Seared tuna with mango, avocado, over seaweed salad served with ginger soy sauce
Tropical Spring Rolls (VE/G)
Rice noodle wraps filled with fresh vegetables, mango and avocado
Reef Salad (G)
$8
$16.99
Fresh seafood and fish salad that includes octopus, shrimp, calamari, clams and seaweed
Grilled Mahi-Mahi (G)
$16
Grilled Costa Rican Trout (G)
$16
Ocean Potion
$16
Grilled mahi-mahi over a bed of spinach topped with caramelized onions
Grilled Costa Rican trout served with our house coconut and almond sauce
Tropical seafood and fish soup with coconut cream served with avocado and plantain
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Pizza • Bar • Sunset tamarindo, costa rica
4th floor above Super Compro
The ROOF:
Hours Daily, 7:30am to midnight Happy Hours: 4pm - 7pm Phone: (506) 7240-6072 Specialties Best ocean view in town, amazing sunset, wood fire pizza, private events.
Sunset Experience Come and enjoy Tamarindo’s best sunset experience on our rooftop with family and friends. With pool tables and many activities throughout the week, we’re the best place in town for your event or holiday time. Call for reservations!
MENU SELECTIONS Thin Crust Pizza Thick Family Pizza Italian Pasta
Pots & Bowls:
Coffee Shop and Plants
Main road to Playa Grande
Fresh, healthy and fun. Focus on homemade ingredients. Different dietary options: gluten free lactose free - vegan.
Hours Daily, 8am - 5pm Phone: 4701-2394 potsandbowls@gmail.com
Specialties Coffee, plants and pots Costa Rican boutique Workshops
MENU SELECTIONS Choco-Banana NiceCream
Peanut butter, cacao, almond milk, granola, bee pollen, nibs
$9
Tuna Poke $14 Sushi rice, avocado, edamame, wakame, mango
SIMPLY SPANISH Visiting a Soda arroz con camarones — shrimp rice served with french fries arroz con pollo — chicken fried rice served with refried beans and french fries casado — rice, beans, protein, a cooked veggie and a fresh veggie and usually accompanied by a fruit drink choreada — fresh corn tortilla either sweet or salty topped with sour cream or melted cheese fresco natural — fruit drink mixed with water or mix gallo pinto — rice and beans mixed together huevos revueltos — scrambled eggs huevo frito — fried egg huevo picado — scrambled eggs sometimes cooked with sauteed onions
Main road to Playa Grande, 20 meters after Wilmart Hours Fri - Sun, 4pm-10pm Phone: 2249-6166, 8496-2221
Specialties Smiles and Good Vibes private Asian Chef Service, Pho, Free delivery to Playa Grande and Matapalo
olla carne — root vegetable beef soup, normally served on Sundays
plantano maduro — sweet plantain queso frito — fried firm cheese tortilla — corn flour tortilla
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Authentic Asian Food
Enjoy traditional Vietnamese and Thai cuisine in a tropical garden setting.
natilla — sour cream, traditionally eaten with gallo pinto picadillo — potatoes, chayote (squash) or green plantain cut in tiny cubes and cooked in a light sauce
El Oasis Chill Out and Lodge
MENU SELECTIONS Appetizers
Spring rolls, rainbow salad and nems
Entrees Pad Thai, bun nems bowl, Cantonese rice, stir fried wok,
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 7
PLAYA GRANDE
TAMARINDO
the roof
PLAYA GRANDE
DINING GUIDE
DINING GUIDE
PALM BEACH
Palm Beach, next to the estuary Hours Breakfast available all day long: 7:30am-2:30pm Lunch: 11am-3pm Dinner: 5:30pm-9pm Phone: 2653-0975 frontdesk@hotelbulabula.com Specialties
Daily:
Sunset happy hour 50% off appetizers 4-6pm
Monday:
Mexican all you care to eat buffet 5:30-8:30
Wednesday:
Italian All you care to eat buffet 5:30-8:30
Specialty coffees and espresso
The Great Waltini's - Bula Bula: American Fusion Cuisine Enjoy casual fine dining and experience “a fusion of the Americas” in a tranquil and inviting setting. At the Great Waltini’s, you can enjoy a sumptuous meal in an attractive dining area or choose to sit under the stars and enjoy your meal on the garden patio. Choose from houseaged steaks, seafood dishes, and down-home fare. Top with cocktails and desserts — the complete experience. Located in beautiful Palm Beach Estates next to the estuary. We are easily accessible from Tamarindo via boat taxi (complimentary with dinner reservations). Pickup time are 5, 5:30 and 6 pm. Please call before 2pm to reserve boat taxi (2653-0975). Happy hour – includes domestic beer, well drinks, famous giant Bula margaritas and appetizer specials.
MENU SELECTIONS Ahi Tuna
Annie's Salad
Double Cut Pork Chop
Hand Carved Turkey
Blackened Shrimp Salad
Aged Filet Mignon
Mahi-Mahi
Baked Lasagna
St. Louis Style Pork Ribs
Mixed Seafood Combo
Aged New York Steak
8 oz filet prepared tropical, blackened, sautéed or fried Oven roasted turkey, mashed potatoes, cranberry sauce and house made gravy 8 oz filet prepared tropical, blackened, sautéed or fried Tuna, mahi-mahi, jumbo shrimp, calamari, and mussels in a white wine saffron sauce
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Blackened chicken breast with avocado over crisp greens and fresh vegetables Blackened jumbo shrimp, sliced avocado over fresh lettuce and fresh vegetables Italian sausage, beef and pork, tomato, ricotta, mozzarella and romano cheese
10 oz cut prepared charbroiled, blackened or au poivre in brandy cream sauce 10 oz cut prepared charbroiled, blackened or au poivre in brandy cream sauce Baked tender and served with our famous tropical Bula Bula BBQ sauce
10 oz cut prepared charbroiled, blackened or au poivre in brandy cream sauce
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Black Stallion:
Rustic Outdoor BBQ
Hours By reservation
Dine with the stars of Guanacaste on a private ranch. Enjoy a delicious BBQ buffet with sides. Wine, beer and sangria included! Call for reservations.
Phone: 8869-9765 Specialties Zipline and BBQ buffet for only $85.
Available for private parties and events.
MENU SELECTIONS
Mixed BBQ Buffet
$45
Seafood Buffet
$45
Baby back ribs, chorizo and chicken, sides included A delicious array of seafood and sides dishes
New York Pizza: 200m west of the Brasilito/ Huacas crossroads, Huacas www.nypizzeriahuacas.com @nypizzeriahuacas Hours Mon, 5pm-9pm Tues-Sun 3pm-11pm Phone: 2653-6296 8729-5640
Pizzeria
New York Pizzeria is your go-to pizza spot in Guanacaste, for an authentic New York style pizza or calzone. Dine-in or take-out available. Enjoy! Specialties Authentic New York style pizza and calzones. Freshly made breadsticks.
MENU SELECTIONS Meat Lover's Pizza Pepperoni, ham, salami, bacon, and ground beef
House Special Pizza
Pepperoni, ham, mushrooms, onions, and sweet peppers
HUACAS
VILLARREAL
8 min. drive from Tamarindo, 2km south Villarreal
HUACAS
DINING GUIDE
3km south of Huacas, road to Tamarindo Hours Daily, 7am-9pm Breakfast 7am-10am
La Playita: Poolside Dining Located at the Seis Playas Hotel, La Playita restaurant and bar is open to hotel guests and the public, and is known for its friendly and inviting environment. It is the ideal setting for sharing good food and drinks with family and friends, or a romantic dinner poolside while enjoying the convenient distance to our six local beaches.
MENU SELECTIONS
Phone: 2653-6818 info@seisplayashotel.com
Broken Yolk Sandwich
$12
Pasta
Specialties Food cooked to your taste — con mucho gusto Friday Night Texas Barbecue
Breakfast Quesadilla
$12
Open Grill
BLT La Playita
$10
Pineapple FlambĂŠ
Fried egg, bacon or ham and cheese on toast, served with seasonal fruit Eggs, tomato, onion, sweet pepper and cheese, served with seasonal fruit Always a favorite for a light bite to eat: bacon, lettuce and tomato
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$14
Build your own pasta bowl, with a mixed salad
From $16
Pork tenderloin, chicken breast, ribeye, New York strip, beef tenderloin & catch of the day
$4
Our most popular dessert served hot with vanilla ice cream
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Continued from page 5
Digging into the Soda
Soda Tapia on the main drag of La Sabana in 1976. Photo courtesy of José Gerardo Suárez Monge.
SODA TAPIA TICO STYLE
A True Urban Legend
Y
by Sylvia Barreto Benites
ears before the soda fountain culture was brought back to life in movies like American Graffiti, an enterprising idea was born in the minds of Bruno and Alice Tapia. It was 1964 and the couple was already running a successful eatery in San José’s central market. But Bruno and Alice had shinier dreams, setting their sights on a modern place with gleaming plastic counters and booths. The menu would be all on its own, while ultimately becoming synonymous with traditional Costa Rican food. More than a half-century later, Soda Tapia remains a must-try location like no other. Aside from traditional gallo pinto and casados, the dining spot serves hamburgers and also arreglados — a refried bean and ham sandwich with cheese, Salsa Lizano and veggies. “Churchills” are also served in every variety. A Churchill is a shaved ice dessert that can incorporate condensed milk and powdered milk (granizado when sold on the beach) or ice cream, jello and fruit salad. Soda Tapia features a unique and wide-ranging menu, including options you can tick off from a list. The combinations are endless and made to order. Located on San José’s main drag in La Sabana, Soda Tapia is an urban legend in the truest Tico sense that everyone should savor.
This regional dish carries with it a bit of controversy. It originated in San José bars in the 1990s, but one man claims to have invented the layered combination that includes rice, beans and salsa, topped with fried pork and served with tortilla chips. The surrounding controversy led to the firstever patent on an appetizer. When you walk into a soda don’t expect to always be served at the table; you may find yourself sitting uncomfortably waiting for a server who will only reluctantly come. Your best bet is to go directly to the counter and say hello and then ask for a menu. Remember this is a local eatery where servers are used to the same locals coming in every day, so polite banter when you arrive will go a long way.
Your Tico taste of home Visiting a soda is like eating at the table of a local family. You enjoy home-cooked food, mostly unprocessed and healthy. Reflecting the everyday meals of Costa Ricans, sodas are the authentic way to experience traditional cuisine. Sodas around the country have particular dishes that represent local tastes. In Limón, for example, you can have rice ‘n’ beans any time of day — that is, gallo pinto cooked with coconut. Soda menus also reflect the location’s growing seasons; a casado side dish can be any number of local vegetable combinations or even a pasta salad, perhaps a surprise to eat with rice and beans. Each soda will also reflect the local cooks — normally a group of women — and their unique food preparation styles. Sodas are a super-affordable and delicious way to eat your way through Costa Rica. Step out through the door wherever you are, walk in any direction and you will find one.
Soda Tapia on the main drag of La Sabana today and people enjoying their meal on the outside patio.
The original Soda Tapia in San José's Central Market since 1893.online Photo: Roberto Torres 10 | operating #searchfind howl|
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BRASILITO
DINING GUIDE
Main corner, Brasilito Hours Mon-Fri, 11am-midnight Sat-Sun, 10am-midnight Phone: +506 4702-0826 costarica@ lucysretiredsurfers.com LucysCostaRica Specialties Only for the brave: Our infamous scorpion shot
March Event Schedule March Events King and Queen Pub Crawl March 1st, 2019 at 5pm Pub Crawl Begins at Lucy’s 6th Annual Dog Day Afternoon March 24th, 2019 4-7pm Live Entertainment, 100% of Proceeds Benefit Barbara’s Animal Rescue Cinco De Drinko Tuesday, March 5th, 2019 5 colones margaritas for 5 min. at 5pm Join us Each Week! Happy Hour: Daily from 4-6 pm c1000 Imperial & Pilsen c2500 wines by the glass c2500 Lucy's margaritas Taco Tuesdays $1 soft beef tacos all day c2500 margaritas all day Fridays Ladies Night - Starts at 9pm Extended Happy Hour, Live Music/ DJ, Free Drinks for Ladies (9-11pm)
Lucy’s Retired Surfers Bar & Restaurant: Coastal Cuisine Beachfront restaurant and bar serving unique coastal fusion dishes and cocktails featuring the freshest ingredients in Guanacaste! Lucy’s is more than just a restaurant, it’s a lifestyle. With locations in some of the most tubular spots around the world (New Orleans, Key West, Costa Rica and Aruba), we know how to have a good time. Lucy's’ daily food and drink specials are boat-to-table and will give you something new to try every day. With live music, a radical bar scene and six large-screen TVs, Lucy’s is Guanacaste's hottest new bar and restaurant!
MENU SELECTIONS Shaka Ceviche c5,500
Serious Nachos c6,000
Fish Tacos
Avocado Fritas c5,500
The Juicy Lucy c6,500
Shrimp Tacos c5,500
CheeseQuesadilla c5,000
Tuna Salad
Steak Tacos
Delicious fresh local fish and shrimp in a citrus marinade topped with avocado
Beer-battered avocado slices served with black bean salsa and homemade ranch
Flour tortilla overflowing with melted cheese, served with pico and guacamole
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Fully loaded nachos topped with beans, pico, sour cream, and our rockin’ guac
Our famous 8 oz. burger served on a brioche bun with Lucy’s special sauce
c6,500
Freshly seared yellowfin served over spring mix with fresh fruit and feta
c6,000
Blackened local fish topped with mango-pineapple slaw and avocado crema
Fried or grilled shrimp tossed in a sassy pao pao sauce, topped with cabbage slaw
c6,500
Marinated flank steak topped with jalapeño chimichurri and queso fresco
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 11
DINING GUIDE
SURFSIDE / POTRERO
1 km east of Banco Nacional in Flamingo Hours Daily, 6:30am-9:30pm Phone: 2654-4671, 2654-5340 Specialties Fresh seafood and pasta
NASU: Creative Tropical Cuisine Welcome to Nasu Restaurant, tropical creative cuisine. Join us oceanside, where the freshest catch is prepared every day by our acclaimed chef. Enjoy the culinary treasures of Costa Rica, where tradition and innovation meet.
MENU SELECTIONS NASU Salad
Shrimp Spicy Tacos
SURFSIDE / POTRERO
Potrero, 800m north of Banco Nacional Hours Daily, 11am -10pm Kitchen closes 9pm
$14
$16
Cheesecake
$8
$25
Grilled lobster garlic buttered, baby potatoes with rosemary and mixed vegetables
Keylime Pie
Special dessert of the chef
$8
MENU SELECTIONS Grilled Scallops
c10000
Shrimp Ceviche
c10500
Catch of the Day
c19000
Bang Bang Shrimp
c10000
Seafood Platter
c19000
Grilled Lobster Tails - Market Price
Grilled in a bath of Cacique liquor, lime and garlic
Fresh mahi mahi, grilled jumbo shrimp, sautĂŠed calamari, with rice pilaf and grilled vegetables
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Homemade cheesecake with blueberry topping
Private residence on the beach transformed into a quaint restaurant and bar, renowned for its fresh seafood. Come and enjoy incredible food and awesome sunsets and views of the Pacific Ocean.
With tropical salsa, grilled vegetables & potatoes or rice
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With baby potatoes and carrots garlic buttered
The Beach House: Beachfront Dining
Phone: 2654-6203 Specialties Fresh seafood Epic sunset view Call for reservations
Grilled Octopus
Flour tortilla, breaded shrimps, mango coleslaw and spicy mayonnaise
Pacific Lobster All taxes included in price
$10
Lettuce mix, avocado, hearts of palm, blackberries, orange and passion fruit dressing
Peruvian style marinated shrimp, red pepper and onion, tomato and cilantro with plantain chips Crispy, creamy, sweet, and spicy: shrimp in cornmeal breading with tangy Thai chili sauce
Two roasted lobster tails in wine-garlic butter sauce with grilled vegetables and rosemary potatoes
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LAS CATALINAS
DINING GUIDE
At Casa Chameleon, 4km north of the Potrero soccer field Hours Daily, 7am-10pm No children under 12 years Phone: 2103-1200 concierge@ casachameleonhotels.com Specialties Fresh fish, sunset cocktails, "boquitas" menu
Sentido Norte: Fine Dining Sentido Norte, a restaurant and bar at Casa Chameleon, proudly offers an adult fine-dining experience that celebrates the best of Costa Rican cuisine. Your drive through winding roads above the quaint beach town of Las Catalinas is rewarded by an unforgettable but affordable taste of luxury. Just a few steps uphill from the bright and welcoming entrance, your table awaits in a gorgeous, open-air perch framed by a panoramic view of the Pacific. A design motif incorporating responsibly sourced teak adds a sense of warmth and well-being to the romantically lit atmosphere. All food and drinks are inspired by the country’s bountiful abundance, combining uniquely local and native ingredients in the glass and on the plate.
MENU SELECTIONS Overnight Oats
$18
Casa Chameleon Burger $19
Guacamole and Salsa
$10
French Toast
$12
Ceviche $14
Octopus & Mussels
$29
Knife & Fork Tortillas
$14
Grilled Skirt Steak
$30
Fresh Tuna Poke
$24
With almond milk, yogurt, fruit, cashews, local honey or tapa dulce
With sweet plantains and coconut milk cream
Angus burger with arugula, Swiss or goat cheese and aioli Fresh fish ceviche, leche de tigre, homemade "chilero"
Grilled Chicken Wrap
Octopus and mussels wok-sautéed in garlic butter and white wine
$12
Chicharrón or vegan huevos rancheros
With greens, avocado & tomato, spicy aioli
Vegan Omelettes
Vegan Bowl
With asparagus, mushrooms and caramelized onion
$6
Hearts of palm ceviche, avocado & tomato
$19
Quinoa, mushroom and squash picadillo salad, spicy garbanzo beans
Skirt steak, chimichurri sauce, salad, french fries
Raw tuna, mango, avocado
Prices shown include 13% tax and 10% service / Prices subject to change
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 13
DINING GUIDE
PLAYA FLAMINGO
SOMEWHERE OMEWHERE BAR AR Margaritaville Beach Resort Playa Flamingo Hours Daily from 4pm to 11pm Happy hour: 4:30-6:30 Phone: 2654-4444, ext. 3264 Specialties Nachos, tacos, burgers, salads and sandwiches
World Famous Margaritas!
5 o'Clock Somewhere Bar & Grill: Drinks and Casual Dining
Fri. Mar 1 - Charly López, 8-10 Sat. Mar 2 - Pachanga Boys Dúo, 8-10
Best place on the Gold Coast to take in panoramic oceanfront views and multi-screen sports TV while enjoying hand-crafted cocktails and a delicious casual dining menu. You will want to return again and again for juicy cheeseburgers and mouthwatering tacos, not to mention the perfect margaritas and other specialty cocktails. Enjoy a beautiful sunset view during the daily Happy Hour 4:30 to 6:30 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday nights feature live entertainment with the best of the area's local bands and musical talent.
Mon. Mar 4 - Groobeach C., 8-10 Wed. Mar 6 - Caminantes, 8-10 Thu. Mar 7 - Café Soul Trio, 8-10 Fri. Mar 8 - Charly López, 8-10 Sat. Mar 9 - Groobeach C., 8-10 Sun. Mar 10 - Caminantes, 8-10 Mon. Mar 11 - Mystic Trío, 8-10 Fri. Mar 15 - Charly López, 8-10 Sat. Mar 16 - Coco Hits Dúo, 8-10 Mon. Mar 18 - Jose Vega, 4-6 Wed. Mar 20 - Mystic Trío, 8-10 Fri. Mar 22 - Charly López, 8-10 Sat.Mar23-Trío Acústica Latina, 8-10 Tue. Mar 26 - Jose Vega, 4-6 Fri. Mar 29 - Charly López, 8-10 Sat. Mar 30 - Café Soul Trio, 8-10
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A perfect blend of Costa Rican and international cuisine that includes freshly caught local fish and grass-fed beef. Enjoy the oceanfront sea breeze on the outdoor patio or dine inside in air-conditioned comfort.
An Italian bistro with a tropical view. Choose from a selection of pizzas, pastas and paninis or build your own dish with a variety of fresh, delicious ingredients.
Hours Daily 6:30am to 9:30pm breakfast, lunch, dinner
Hours Daily 5pm to 11:30pm Pizza only from 9:30pm
Phone: 2654-4444 ext. 3269
Phone: 2654-4444 ext. 3268
Specialties Fresh fish, grass-fed beef, International buffets, kids menu
Specialties Specialty artisanal pizza oven; design your own pizzas and pastas
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La Plaza, Playa Flamingo Hours: Daily, 7am-9:30pm Phone: 2554-4136 Specialties Check out @mariescostar for weekly special event nights
Marie's:
Local and International The place in Flamingo for delicious breakfast, lunch, dinner, and cocktails with great service. Live music and weekly Monday Morning Market
Present ad for complimentary Passion Fruit Mimosa with breakfast, lunch or dinner entree purchase.
MENU SELECTIONS
Flamingo - 100m south of road to Potrero
Vaca Loka:
Italian Restaurant
Hours Daily, 5:30pm-10:30pm Closed Wednesday
True Italian cuisine. Pasta like you are in Roma! Fresh bruschetta served when you arrive. Buon appetito!
Phone: 8532-8613 Specialties Pizza, pasta, meat, fish
MENU SELECTIONS
Eggs Benedict
c4.200
House Lasagna
Chicken Caesar Wrap
c4.600
Ribeye c6.500
PLAYA FLAMINGO
DINING GUIDE
c6.500
Avenida Central, across from El Coco Casino, Playas del Coco
COCONUTZ BAR & GRILL: Sports Bar
Hours Mon-Thu, 11am till late Fri-Sun, 9am till late
Coconutz is your neighborhood sports bar and microbrewery in an exotic tropical setting, complete with gorgeous local hardwood, trees growing through the floor, license plates from all over the world, surfboards hanging from the rooftop, and of course ... our famous swing set! We feature the best tropical drink selection in the area, as well as our on-premise brewed Angry Goats beers on tap. Come visit the premier sports bar in Playas Del Coco.
Phone: 2670-1982 pete@coconutzbar.com
Porky PiĂąas
Specialties Smoked BBQ Microbrewery Gourmet bar bites Sports bar Live music Private parties
MENU SELECTIONS
Pineapple bites wrapped in bacon, topped with teriyaki and sesame seeds
Shredded chicken or beef, cheese, lettuce, pico de gallo, sour cream, fried tostada, grilled in tortilla
Smokey Shrimp Poppers
Chicken & Waffle Burger
Memphis Ribs
Al Pastor Pizza
Fresh jumbo shrimp, sliced jalapeĂąo and cream cheese, wrapped in bacon and smoked Half rack or whole rack, with choice of two sides
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Walking Taco
Buttermilk fried chicken with waffle bun, American cheese, heat and sweet sauce Adobe smoked pork, pineapple salsa, local fresh cheese, house mole sauce
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 15
PLAYAS DEL COCO
Fish Tacos c7.000
TICO STYLE
mi ni
-m ag
Soda El Coco: A Story of One Soda
by Marian Paniagua and Jessie Rowan
Soda El Coco’s founding family owners are fisherman Juan Solana, pictured above with fresh catch of the day, and his wife, Merida Cruz Vallejos, below.
W
ith a family business plan that was decidedly small to start with but sure to succeed through steadfast commitment, Soda El Coco and the Cruz family has been satisfying appetites in Brasilito Beach for more than 23 years. Initially furnished with just three wooden tables and benches, the eatery has grown and thrived from its modest beginnings on the terrace of its owners’ house by the old soccer field. The soda was named for a coconut tree in the middle of the front patio. Instead of cutting it down, builders cut a hole in the roof so the tree could continue growing unobstructed. Merida Cruz remembers following this simple but evidently failsafe plan to prepare for the soda’s first day of operation. She purchased one cabbage, two kilos of meat, a bag of rice and a bag of beans. Her husband, Juan, contributed shrimp and calamari that he caught diving off the beach. With these ingredients they were up and running, serving casado dishes to their inaugural customers. Their opening sales income was spent restocking for the following day … and so on, and that is how they continued moving their business forward. Merida was in charge of the kitchen while her brother-in-law managed table service.
Juan fished every day for lobster, fish, oysters and octopus. Son Javier has worked with the family business all his life. He now opens the soda every morning and sometimes helps in the kitchen when needed. He also attracts many customers through his sideline business: fishing excursions that reward participants for catching their own entree to enjoy at the soda afterwards. Jazmin, Merida and Juan’s youngest daughter, started waiting tables at age 13 but now does mostly administrative work. Merida no longer cooks, nor does Juan go out catching fish for the daily special. Nonetheless, their presence every day is very important to ensure tasks are done properly and maintain the high quality of service and food. Soda El Coco’s best-selling menu dishes are the whole lobster, the whole red snapper with creamy shrimp sauce and the seafood soup. The ever-popular casados are known for being delicious, affordable and served in generous portions. Reflecting on their enterprising journey since 1995, the family members are gratified by the soda’s evolution and growth. The coconut tree is not there anymore but Soda El Coco is still flourishing. Photos: Jessie Rowan
Arroz con camerones, ensalada y papas fritas.
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Juan Luis Solano Cruz, oldest son, takes clients on fishing trips and back to the soda to cook their own catch of the day.
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Casado con pescado empnizado (breaded fish).
HOWLER
Costa Rica Living
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 17
PURA VIDA - CRLIVING
&Vegetable Stand
by Sylvia Barreto Benites
Visiting the Fruit SPANISH
I
t’s the little things that make Costa Rica so special, and the taste of fruits and vegetables is one of those things. The difference between eating fresh vineripened and shipping-ripened products is immediately apparent. On almost every major cruce (street crossing) you will find a verdureria (fruit and vegetable stand). Not only can they bring down the cost of your weekly food shopping needs but also serve as a great Spanish learning classroom! One of the most important parts of Tico living is the saludos (greetings). Unlike the “get-to-the-point” culture of many people, time should be taken in Costa Rica to properly greet the vendors you visit before you ask for something. A “Hola, como estas?” or even just “Buenas” goes a long way. Ideally, you should collect
Ask for cooking tips and ways to eat, and bring home new flavors for your family.
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a few salutations like these and try them out everywhere you go. Avoid jumping right into a request or need; always look people in the eyes, smiling and greeting them warmly. This simple act will change the quality of service you receive. Another helpful tip is to prepare some useful sayings that can help you get through the interaction more smoothly. This will serve you well not only when shopping for food but also when visiting places like the bank and providers of your electricity, cable and water services. Each requires a specific vocabulary and sayings. You can make these lists of greetings and phrases and save them on your smartphone. Having them saved on your phone and using them shows the person you are
Yuca is a large brown root vegetable you can eat boiled, fried or as a base for many dishes.
interacting with that you are trying to meet them in the middle of this language barrier and it also has the magical effect of helping you remember. Researchers have found simply “holding” the information — in this case, physically — brings your stress level down and allows you to better access it when needed. Refer to page 23 of this magazine or the Howler Simply Spanish vignettes online to formulate these phrases. Lastly, take the moment to be adventurous. When shopping for fruits and vegetables, try out unfamiliar ones. Ask for cooking tips and ways to eat, and bring home new flavors for your family. Here are some suggestions you’ll be glad to have picked up on your next visit.
Chayote is a green, pear-shaped vegetable with wrinkles; it looks like a mouth after sucking a lemon! Eat chayote fresh in a salad or diced and boiled to make picadillo. howlermag.com
Plátano (plantain) is a
gigantic banana. It must be cooked before eating and can take on many shapes and consistencies. Green plantains make patacones, or twice-fried plantain chips. Yellow to brown plantains make maduros, a sweet plantain cooked in butter and served with pinto.
Granadilla is an ovalshaped fruit, orange to orangebrown in color, with a hard, crisp skin. It contains a bundle of seeds surrounded by a tasty pulp. Eat with a spoon or add to a smoothie, yogurt or your favorite vinaigrette. Guanábana, also known
Mango/Manga comes in many varieties. Not all are alike and each stage is eaten in different ways. Ticos love green mangos, crispy and delicious cut into thin strips with salt and lemon or a number of different toppings. As the mango turns pale orange to reddish, the inside intensifies in color and sweetness. Mango refers to the smaller size and manga the bigger size.
as soursop, is a giant, spiky green fruit with mushy white interior and black seeds. The seeds must be removed before putting the flesh into a blender or eating. Considered a superfruit, it’s a super addition to any smoothie.
It's time for a new kind of language classroom
Services offered: Pejibaye is more vegetable than fruit, with glossy green, orange or red skin and black stripes, resembling a large acorn. Cooked and peeled, its yellow pulp tastes very good with a little mayonnaise added to it. It can be made into bisques and mousse.
Tamarind is known for its brown pods and can be found around its namesake town, Tamarindo, during the harvest season. It can be eaten right off the tree, like nature's candy, by sucking the tart and sweet meat off the seed. Tamarind can also be found in the produce section of food stores in little brown bundles of mush. This can be placed in water to let sit or boiled in water to make tamarind juice. #s earchf indh owl
• Group lessons - Surfside and Tamarindo • Fast Track - a five-day intensive class • Private one-on-one and group lessons • Translation and interpreter services • Educational and career counseling for young adults and parents looking for the right school
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PURA VIDA - CRLIVING
Water Workouts Offer Gravity- Defying Benefits
Tasha Shauli conducts the yoga portion of Tamarindo Aquafit while co-owner, Stephanie Hiltz, conducts the aerobics portion of the class.
WELLNESS
by Tasha Shauli & Stephanie Hiltz
T
here are but a few pairings in this universe that combine so well, one wonders what humans did before their creation. Peanut butter and chocolate come to mind, and wine with pretty much everything. But pairing aerobic exercise and yoga in a swimming pool just might also be a match made in heaven. This dynamic duo — merging physical activity with the calming effects of water — is called aquafit.
Gravity is a Bitch
People not only exercise longer in water than on land but also enjoy those activities more.
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One of the somewhat unpleasant aspects of a workout are the effects it has on your muscles and joints. Activity such as running, for example, can create an impact of 2.5 times your body weight. By simply adding water — doing aerobic and yogic exercise in a swimming pool — that wear and tear on joints and muscles is a factor of little importance. Having said that, even though your body will thank you for lightening the load, so to speak, it doesn’t mean you’re not getting a total body workout. Any action performed while submerged in water is subject to something called hydrodynamic drag. That
is the resistance felt when trying to move in a pool or any liquid for that matter. That drag makes everything more of an effort, which means your workout will be optimized, even though you may feel a little like you’re floating. Finally, it would be hard to ignore the science directly related to the benefits of water-based activity. The Centers for Disease Control in the U.S. has cited research showing people not only exercise longer in water than on land but also enjoy those activities more. As well, the same report says water-based exercise improves mental health by decreasing anxiety.
Cross-train and stay cool
Those who attend class continuously say how impressed they are with the effects they feel from their aquatic workout. Combining the cardio, strength training and yoga all in one class allows people to cross-train their workout regime while staying cool in the Costa Rican sun. So if you’re looking to incorporate some new experiences into your workout regime, do your body a solid and go exercise in some liquid. You won’t regret it! Photos courtesy of Tamarindo AquaFit.
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 21
PURA VIDA - CRLIVING
HEAT Emergencies
THE DOCTOR IS IN
A hot day, with high humidity and no breeze, furnishes an ideal situation for heat emergencies.
Y
ou are on the beach or doing a big hike and all of a sudden you feel clammy and the world seems to be closing in on you. What could be happening? You are probably experiencing some type of heat emergency. Heat emergencies can range from mild to lifethreatening and in Costa Rica you need to know how to identify them in yourself and others. Normally, heat produced within the body is brought to the skin surface by tiny capillaries in the bloodstream, escaping to the cooler environment by conduction, radiation and convection. When the surrounding air temperature is equal
to or greater than that of the body, heat must be lost by moisture or sweat from the body surface. As air becomes more humid, vaporization from the body slows. A hot day, with high humidity and no breeze, furnishes an ideal situation for heat retention and a resulting medical emergency. It’s much easier to prevent heat emergencies than to have to treat them. When active in a hot environment, take frequent rest periods to cool off. It is extremely important to drink plenty of water to keep the body fluid volume at normal or above-normal levels.
by Dr. Herbert Weinman
Heat exhaustion
Heat exhaustion occurs in individuals who are active in hot environments. This “near-fainting” condition is caused by the pooling of blood in the lower extremities. When a person is standing or sitting, there can be inadequate flow of blood to the heart and brain. Clinical symptoms are cold and clammy skin, pale appearance, weak pulse, shallow breathing and possible loss of consciousness. Treatment consists of moving patients to a cooler place, laying them flat on the floor and placing cold applications on the skin. Clothing should be removed to facilitate loss of heat through skin exposure. Patients usually recover fairly quickly.
Heat cramps
Heat cramps are seen in people who engage in activity in a hot environment and sweat a great deal. Cramps are a result of a loss of salt from the body causing painful spasms, especially in leg and abdominal muscles. Treatment of heat cramps requires fluid and salt intake, usually in the form of commercial electrolyte solutions such as Gatorade. Gentle massage on the cramped muscles can provide relief.
Heatstroke
Heatstroke (or sunstroke) is especially common in elderly individuals who are exposed to hot surroundings for prolonged periods. This results in a large amount of heat being stored and the body temperature can be very high. In contrast to the pale, moist skin of heat exhaustion, a heatstroke patient’s skin is dry, red and hot. The pulse is rapid and the patient may be unconscious and remain so for a long period of time. This condition is very serious. Treatment Heatstroke patients should be moved to a cool place. Cold applications should cover the entire body by using cold packs, spraying with cool water, or wrapping the patient in constantly moistened sheets. Competent medical care should be sought as soon as possible. This is an emergency!
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SIMPLY SPANISH by Sylvia Barreto Benites and Spanish For Expats
Out and About Greetings / In Partings Adiós. — Goodbye. (slightly more formal way to say goodbye) Buenas. — Very typical greeting in Costa Rica that can be used at any time of the day. Buenos dias. — Good morning. Chao/Ciao. — Bye. (usual way to say goodbye) Gracias a usted. —Thanks to you. The polite answer to Gracias. Hasta luego. — See you later, or literally, “until later.” Hola — Hello. Muchas gracias. — Thank you. Que tenga un buen dia. — Have a great day. Asking for Things ¿Como se come esto? — How do you eat this? ¿Como se cocina esto? — How do you cook this? Cuanto cuesta esto? — How much does this cost? Dame uno, por favor. — Give me one, please. Discúlpe/Perdón/Permiso... — Excuse me … (when you need to get someone’s attention) Me haria el favor de …— Could you do me the favor to... Me gustaria... — I would like... ¿Me pasas eso, por favor? — Can you pass me that, please? Me podria dar… — Could you give me? Me regala... — Literally “gift me,” but in Costa Rica it means “give me”. Muchas gracias. — Thank you. Necesito… — I need… ¿Qué es esto? — What is this? Quisiera uno de esos, por favor — I would like one of those, please Quisiera… — I would like… Quisiera uno de esos, por favor — I would like one of those, please. Seria tan amable... — Would you be so kind …? Tiene…..? — Do you have….?
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 23
PURA VIDA - CRLIVING
BHUJANGASANA
Cobra Pose
YOGAPEDIA
Bhujang = Serpent / Cobra asana = pose
B
hujangasana, or cobra pose, owes its name to the cobra snake and the position it adopts when attacking. As one of the most classic and fundamental yoga positions, it is commonly used to transition to other postures in sun salutation, as well as to link different postures in a flow. Like other posterior flexion postures, bhujangasana has its deepest effect on the lumbar spine. Please remember that observation is fundamental to understanding and growth as you practice this yoga pose, as in any other aspect of your life.
Benefits of the corpse pose
Physically • Provides flexibility. • Irrigates the spine with blood. • Tones the spinal cord. • Strengthens the arm and wrist muscles as well as the glutes. • Coupled with breathing, it gives a gentle massage to the lower back and inner organs. • Improves functions of the adrenal glands and kidneys. • Benefits the sympathetic and parasympathetic system, and functioning of the thymus gland and the heart. • Tones the pectoral muscles, creates space in the rib cage and stretches and revitalizes the abdominal muscles. Mentally The cobra posture provides a sensation of empowerment. As you press firmly the palms of your hands on the mat and emerge confidently from the ground, you display and open your chest, projecting self-trust and receptivity. Emotionally As your chest is lifted, your heart opens, creating a feeling of stress reduction and anxiety relief. Expansion of your lungs gives your body more oxygenation, translating to a deep feeling of clarity and space. You can give yourself permission to welcome more emotions to your attention. Energetically The cobra pose awakens kundalini, the divine cosmic energy that fosters self-realization, creativity, joy, peace and spiritual realization.
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To be mindful
by Marian Paniagua
• Do not practice this pose if you have carpal tunnel syndrome, or if you have any neck, wrist or spine injuries. • Avoid during pregnancy. • Practice self-respect by not pushing your back beyond your limit.
How to do the cobra pose
1. Begin by lying face down on the floor with the legs extended behind you. Gently press the top of your feet to the mat. Keeping the heels together causes a stretching of the external sciatic nerve, but this may cause compression of the lower back. To avoid this when first practicing the cobra pose, try keeping your feet separated until you become familiar with the posture. 2. Place the hands under your shoulders with fingers spread and pointing forward. Press the elbows into the sides of your body and take a moment to distribute the weight of your body, evenly pressing down through your feet, pubic bone and hands. 3. Inhale as you lift your head and chest off the floor. Exhale as you draw the shoulders back away from your ears and the heart forward. At this point, keep your gaze towards the floor; if you don’t sense any tension in your neck, go ahead and gaze up. Up to this point, you are in the low cobra variation. 4. Inhale as you keep lifting your chest; straighten your arms only as much as your body permits. Do not force the back to bend by pushing. Focus more on allowing the curve of your spine to happen as a natural result of lifting your chest and extending your spine. Remember to keep pressing the elbows to your sides. Take deep and long inhales, and when you exhale, do it slowly with absolutely no hurry. Hold for six breaths. 5. To release the posture, lower your chest and forehead to the floor along with an exhalation. Pause and breathe in. As you breathe out, transition into the child’s pose (balasana), moving the hips to your heels, extending the arms in front of you and resting your forehead and arms on the mat. Hold for as long as it feels soothing to you.
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EAT • SLEEP • SURF • STRETCH
The Yoga Shala at RipJack Inn
Classes Workshops Retreats
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 25
PURA VIDA - CRLIVING
Beach Cowboys
Tope Fashion for Fiesta Season
FASHION FLASH
by Patricia Sterman
T
his is that time of the year when fiestas are all around Costa Rica. Towns get together to welcome visitors and tourists from all over the world. It’s the place to enjoy a nice cold beer while watching the bull riding and take your kids to the rides and games. For me, the best part is the tope — a spectacular street parade of dozens or hundreds of horses, depending on the size of the town. The haciendas and premier horse breeders of the country are represented by animals trained to exhibit their beauty and nothing else. Riding atop tall, muscular horses with shiny black manes are women stunningly beautiful and voluptuous. Other riders are happy finca owners and sometimes completely drunk finca workers. It’s an event that families flock to, with kids in tow to ride and watch
the show. To appreciate the magnitude of the event, El Tope de San José, the country’s largest annual equestrian parade, drew more than 5,000 horse riders and 600,000 spectators to the nation’s capital in 2013. What is the dress code of Costa Rica’s most famous festivity? If you have a cowboy hat, it's time to take it out of the closet, as well as your riding boots and plaid shirt. Despite the infernal heat here, many wear their jeans and many wrap a bandana around their necks. For women, tight pants and a big cleavage are a signature part of the look. Iconic accessories are a leather belt with a big metallic buckle and a big pair of sunglasses. Younger gals in the crowd will fit right in with a pair of shorts, a crop-top and a fanny pack to carry their cell phone.
If you have a cowboy hat, it's time to take it out of the closet.
If you need any type of fashion advice or recommendation for a special event, contact
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 27
ANIMAL LIFE
PURA VIDA / LIFESTYLE
Signs of Change in Your Aging Pet Health Care for a Longer and Better Quality of Life by Dr. Gilberth Cavallini
W
hat can be done to help your pet live longer and enjoy the best quality of life possible? These are some signs to look for and recommendations for optimal health care. Changes typically start to become noticeable when a dog becomes seven years old. It’s not necessarily old age in all cases, but a step in that direction. • Skin: Moles and tumors start to appear. They might be benign, or they may be malignant. It’s always advisable to consult your veterinarian. In some cases, it’s better to remove the skin growth to take a sample for a biopsy or cytology testing, and other times to just leave it and monitor. • Eyes: Any change in the color or brightness of your pet’s eyes should be brought to your vet’s attention. An ophthalmologist might also be consulted if necessary. Cataracts are a common occurrence, and if diagnosed early, the vision loss can be minimized or eradicated with surgery.
chemistry analysis, including kidney and liver enzymes. This can make an important difference in determining at an early stage if your pet will need a change in diet to increase his life expectancy. In our practice, it is not uncommon for asymptomatic dogs to be diagnosed with liver failure in early stages. • X-rays: It is common for older pets to develop arthritis, which can be detected and monitored with x-rays. Many types of food supplements are available to give animals with arthritis a better quality of life and more years with us. • Ultrasound: In our area, where water has a high mineral content, we strongly recommend an annual ultrasound test. Our biggest concern is bladder stones, found most often in male cats and dogs. Many cases become emergencies when a blockage occurs and might require surgery. This can often be avoided through early detection and prophylactic treatment. Another veterinary concern is the increased incidence of spleen tumors. They usually grow like a bag of blood and sooner or later might rupture, causing internal hemorrhage. The spleen can be safely removed and, with proper care, can prolong your pet’s life. These are recommendations for preventing and detecting diseases early in your pet’s life. Prophylactic treatment can keep your family member healthier while increasing their life expectancy. Not everything has to be checked out at once, but knowing what to look for — and when — will give you the best view of your furry friend’s health condition.
Recommendations for preventing and detecting diseases early in your pet’s life.
Other age-related conditions in your pet may be less visible and harder to detect. Again, regular visits to your veterinarian are recommended for the following kinds of health assessments. • Blood work: In this geographic area, a complete blood test and a SNAP test (for heartworm and other vector-borne diseases) are recommended for all pets at least once a year. • Blood chemistry: Your vet might also conduct more extensive blood
Help Stray and Wild Animals – Adopt • Donate • Volunteer 28 | #searchfindhowl| onlinecall: (506) 2652-9009 • email: tamarindovet@gmail.com howlermag.com
100% OF PROCEEDS GO DIRECTLY TO
BARBARA’S ANIMAL RESCUE CENTER
You are invited to attend the 6th Annual
DOG DAY AFTERNOON AT LUCY’S Sunday, March 24, 2019 • 4:00 - 7:00 PM
WIN, WIN OPPORTUNITY Great Raffle Prizes and 50/50 Draw to be won
MIX AND MINGLE Join with family, friends & neighbors for a great evening and a great cause
SILENT AUCTION Bid on some really good stuff from local businesses
BARBARA'S CORNER Novelty pet items, organic pet treats, unique gifts for dog & cat lovers!
FOOD AND DRINK SPECIALS Eat & drink to your heart's content
Live Entertainment by PINKY
GUARO
MAIN CORNER BRASILITO TEL: 8688 0641
+506-2654-6070
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