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HOWLER Costa Ric a L i fe s t yl e , T r av e l & Adv en tu r e
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The CabalgatA Costa Rica's Hidden Cowboys English/Spanish/Audio
Free copy AUGUST 2020
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Howler Troop For This Issue
H
owler is proud to feature Costa Rica’s Cabalgata heritage as the cover story for our August E-magazine. As the author/photographer, Annika Beaulieu told us about her interest in capturing this spectacular annual event, “Costa Rica has become so adept at catering to the tastes of North American tourists that for many it is hard to identify what remains uniquely Costa Rican.” As a firsthand witness to the Cabalgata, she discovered that very form of traditional expression keeping generations of Ticos connected: “a cowboy culture that has persisted for almost 200 years celebrating, ironically, their victory over a North American invasion.”
Annika Beaulieu is a photographer, writer, and filmmaker from Los Angeles, California who has been living part-time in Costa Rica for the last 15 years. Visit her website and follow her on Facebook and Instagram.
WRITERS Joanna Blanco. Integrative nutritional health coach who helps clients embrace wellness in five inter-connected areas of life: relationships, livelihood, physical activity, spiritual awareness and diet. John Brockmeier. Writer and activist inspired by diverse interests and international life experiences. Alei Burns. The Bookstore of the Waves owner, New York-raised librarian, passionate book and surf lover. Phil Eitman. Broker for Prisma Corredor de Seguros. Call 2653-4300, visit www.allinsurancecr.com or e-mail philcostarica@gmail.com Sean Davis. Professional photographer from the U.S., now living in Costa Rica, who loves to sleep, travel and cook. His photographs have been published by Time Magazine, Rolling Stone, Healthy Living, Petapixel, Conde Nast Traveler, and The New York Times. Visit his website, follow him on Instagram or email: sean@photographercostarica.com Ellen Zoe Golden. Former entertainment biz PR flack, now living the dream as a travel agent and journalist in Tamarindo Charlene Golojuch. Co-owner of Hidden Garden Art Gallery with husband, Greg; www.HiddenGardenArt.com Ivan Granados. Managing Partner at GM Attorneys. He specializes in real estate and corporate law. igranados@gmattorneyscr.com Kate Hanley. Freelance writer, teacher, surfer and owner of Pura Vida Board Gear in Jacó. Also a dedicated volunteer and advocate for community service, education and environmental protection. Follow her on Instagram @puravidaboardgear Lori Anne Haskell. Wildlife and birding stalker based in Herradura, Costa Rica, who spends her days hiking and travelling with her camera. Finds joy in capturing the personality of birds and animals and sharing the images and stories with the world. Find her on Facebook and Instagram @puravidablonde, and email: loriannehaskell@gmail.com. Karl Kahler. Author of "Frommer's Costa Rica 2017," former travel editor of the Tico Times and former national editor of California's San Jose Mercury News.
Mary Mason. Published author whose latest book, Casa de Doloros, was inspired by her experiences and adventures as a U.S. expat living in Atenas, Costa Rica. A regular writer for the Mango Musings blog, and also an award-winning former columnist with The Southwest Journal in Minneapolis, who also taught high school English in Houston, Japan and Minnesota. Laura Méndez. Founder of Pura Vida Vibrations. Offering sound journeys, breath work experiences, cacao ceremonies & other activities. hello@puravidavibrations.com Kelly Norris. Writer, photographer, and marketing specialist. Avid surfer, nature lover and certified yoga instructor combining her love for Costa Rica and personal passions with business. Marian Paniagua. Certified nurse and yoga Instructor, and local artisan, born and raised in Guanacaste. 8914-0199. marianpaniagua@gmail.com Jim Parisi. Former owner of Jaime Peligro Bookstore, now called "Bookstore of the Waves". Tamarindo resident for 16 years. jaimepeligro123@hotmail.com Jessie Rowan. Multimedia journalist and photographer originally from California. Former Pulitzer Center on Crisis Reporting grantee and global health reporter. Passion for surfing and traveling. jessierowan2929@ gmail.com Mike Shannon. Known in Costa Rica’s Gold Coast area as a founding member and guitarist with the popular Band X. Having started playing drums at age 7 while growing up in Ontario, Canada, he later played in rock and post-punk bands before moving to Miami and eventually Costa Rica, where he now lives in Playa Flamingo. Rosalind Stewart. Canadian chef who has lived in Costa Rica for 18 years and has a cooking show on a San José TV station. Facebook Instagram Randy Toltz. Long-time resident of Costa Rica working as Broker Associate with EXP Realty. Contact by phone: 303-676-7036 or email: randy@thetoltzgroup.com Visit www.thetoltzgroup.com Herbert Weinman, MD, MBA. Contact Dr. Weinman at thedoctorisinsharkfm@gmail.com
David Karr. Full-time resident of Jacó Beach who moved to Costa Rica in 2005. Since then, he has been consulting and guiding people about real estate and other aspects of living here.
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PHOTOGRAPHY Jonathan Agüero. Jacó photographer and father of junior Costa Rican surf champion Rachel Agüero. Dedicated to surf photography and dabbles in lifestyle sessions, enjoying the ability to capture many feelings and relive them through images. Instagram and Facebook @jonathanagu_photos. Contact: 7157 6409 or jonathanaguphotos@gmail.com Alexander Buker Alfredo Barquero. Surf photographer for Federación de Surf Costa Rica, whose work appears extensively in online publications and collections, including @FedeSurfCR
Contact John Quam headmonkey@howlermag.com Editor editor@howlermag.com Advertising info@howlermag.com CR Office: (506) 4701-5942 US Office: (303)952-0337 (leave message)
Tony Roberts. Lifelong surfer, skater, artist, musician, photographer and filmmaker. Go-to guy for tourist surfers in Costa Rica, Nicaragua, El Salvador, Panama and the Caribbean with his company Real Surf Trips. Visit tonyrobertsphoto.com or realsurftrips.com
The opinions, beliefs and viewpoints expressed by the various authors in this publication do not necessarily reflect the opinions, beliefs and viewpoints of Howler organization or its advertisers.
Jorge A. Russell. Professional photographer from Chile, now based in Jacó. Diverse expertise in both outdoor and studio settings. 8836-6475. Visit jorgerussellphotographer
The Howler Magazine does not assume responsibility for the content of its advertisements.
Jalil El Harrar. Professional wildlife photographer from Germany, now living in Costa Rica. Visit his Naturfotographie website or follow him on Facebook. . Phillip Yingling. Photographer in Costa Rica. Follow on Instagram
August 2020 Vol. 25 No. 6 Publisher / Editor-in-Chief John B. Quam Creative Director Terry Carlile Graphic Design Cover Design: Terry Carlile Editorial Staff Debbie Bride - Editorial Coordinator Laurie Quam - Copy Editor
Images not credited are acquired from stock photography services. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission requests write to: info@howlermag.com. Copyright © 2020 The Howler Gold Coast CR S.A. Copyright © 2020 Howler Media Holding, Inc. Panama
Marketing Terry Carlile Victoria Rice Kelly Norris Mary Fernández Spanish Translation CPI Flamingo HOWLER (™) 2017
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EDITORIAL
Survival Instinct Prevails People innovate into the changes.
C
osta Rica is powered by tourism. Our outlook here, though international travel remains on hold for the time being, is very positive. The world is waiting to come to Costa Rica. Nothing has changed about this country ranking high on the global list of places people want to visit when they get the chance again. Changes have been made and reopenings will proceed with caution at first. We are rounding the corner and heading into the time period when we prepare for the year-end holidays and everything that makes our tourism bubble thrive. The “open” light is flickering towards a steady “on” position. We keep eagerly awaiting every announcement about border openings, with dates being adjusted as the situation evolves. But there is light shining through the darkness.
It still seems so surreal for the borders of countries to actually be closed. I wake up and have to pinch myself to see if it has just been a dream. But no, it is not a dream; it is a reality for all of us. We have all made adjustments to our lives, from limited social contact to living more frugally to preserve limited resources. Yes, it has been quite an adjustment, while also awakening our survival instinct. I posted a couple months ago a quote by Eric Thomas that is still very relevant: “If you want to succeed as bad as you want to breathe, then you will survive.” I took this to heart with actions. I have really admired the positive, forward-looking spirit of so many people in recent months who anticipate a bright and exciting future. When I say “exciting future” it’s because we are in control of our destiny. What we put out is what we get back. Being positive and staying relevant is so important, not only to those we deal with but to our own mental wellness. Being positive is self-perpetuating by allowing us to be creative. Creativity keeps us upbeat and helps us to
remain positive. Being positive is important for our survival. I can’t tell you the number of negative videos and news clips that get sent to me, which I don’t even bother to look at. They are energy zappers. Plan for your bright future. There is no denying it will be somewhat different from the past, but human beings are adaptable. We are seeing this with innovations and creativity at every corner. Every time there is an issue causing change, a new industry pops up in response. People innovate into the changes. Stagnation and not moving with the times are the killers of industries. Stay relevant and rebrand yourself with a positive change to stay on the ride. Whatever is around the corner, anticipate it with eagerness. Life is an adventure and not always smooth, but the ups and downs are what make it an adventure. Hiding is only for the game of hide and seek. The seekers make changes and find the way. Costa Rica’s “open” sign is flickering. Very soon we will see it light up and hold steady.
HOWLER John B. Quam
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IN MEMORIAM
Remembering Pennye Wheeler Flamingo Business Owner and Community Volunteer
Pennye Wheeler, a longtime resident, volunteer and member of the business community in Playa Flamingo, passed away on July 24, 2020. Pennye was born and raised in Cuero, Texas and attended the Texas A&I University. She began her sales career 38 years ago, running her business, Decor Unlimited, in New York. Decorating always remained a passion for Pennye, who also worked for Grolier Publishing managing its real estate division for 11 locations in Florida.
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In 2000, Pennye came to Costa Rica with her brother Rick Wheeler to explore this beautiful country. After seeing all different locations, she fell in love with the Flamingo area and moved down shortly after.
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From 2001 to 2015, Pennye was a valued member of the Christie’s Plantation Realty (Century 21) team. Her contributions were recognized with the highest grossing salesperson award for 2007 and 2008. In 2015, Pennye took a hiatus from real estate to travel the world with her lifelong partner and love, Fritz Mayr. More recently, she and Fritz started Overseas Pacific Realty, collaborating with Jack and Donna Osborne and continuing to sell property on the beautiful Gold Coast of Costa Rica. Pennye was a tireless volunteer for the Flamingo community, serving five years on the Flamingo Beach Association Board of Directors. Her favorite beach in the world was Playa Ventana, where she built her beautiful home and enjoyed entertaining as part of her peaceful life with Fritz, when they were not off traveling the world. Those who knew Pennye would say she was a beautiful and generous woman with great taste, a positive attitude and loads of energy. She lived an exceptional life. Pennye leaves behind her life partner, Fritz Mayr, her three daughters, Ashley, Jennifer and Edythe, and her adored grandchildren, along with Fritz’s family and her many friends and associates. She will be greatly missed and forever remembered. To Pennye's friends wishing to leave a message for her family and Fritz, please click this link for Robert Toale & Sons Funeral Home in Sarasota, Florida.
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COVER STORY
The Cabalgata
Costa Rica’s Hidden Cowboys
M
ore than 1.5 million tourists flock to Costa Rica each year to experience the créme de la créme of tropical paradise. Yet, tucked away in the hills above these emerald beaches littered with surfers and honeymooners, a 150-year-old tradition persists hidden from view.
CULTURAL HERITAGE
Emilio, age 11, joins the cabalgata along with hundreds of other riders heading down into the valley of San Jua Emilio, 11 años de edad, se une a la cabalgata con cientos de jinetes dirigiéndose hacia el valle de San Juan d
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COVER STORY Today the trail to his mother’s house has evolved into a bumpy dirt road that is passable most, but not all, of the year. Carlos spends his days building beautiful vacation homes for foreigners from Canada and the U.S. who have slowly populated the area in the last 20 years. He is an expert in exotic wood finishes and solar water heaters. But Carlos’ passion is his cows. He keeps roughly 25 at a time on the land surrounding the old schoolhouse, which now functions as a stall for his herd when the heavy rains come. Whenever a calf is born he tends to the mother day and night, rain or shine, and then lets his daughters take turns naming the babies. The ride offers Carlos a day of uninterrupted
an de Dios. cowboy bliss. There are no Canadian snowbirds de Dios.here, just horses, guaro, and ranchera girls. He and
his buddies proudly swap stories of saving baby calves born in impossible circumstances and of purchasing rare horses at a great price. For Carlos the cabalgata is the social catalyst that allows the old way of life to persist amidst an ever-changing world. Today his 12-year-old daughter will ride with him for the first time. His stoic demeanor cannot fully conceal the pride he feels as he hauls
Samantha up into her saddle. It is, “Como podemos compartir nuestra cultura a los jóvenes.” (How we can continue to share our culture with the young people.) Celebrated battle The cabalgata traditionally commemorates a famous battle or historical event, a custom dating back to the Roman Empire. The cabalgata of Caña Blanca honors the decisive Battle of Rivas in 1857, when Costa Rican soldiers beat back and defeated William Walker. The notorious American lawyer, journalist, physician and mercenary had attempted to seize large portions of Central America and establish his own personal Englishspeaking colony. Walker’s story is fascinating to the point of utter disbelief. It is littered with insane details like the time Walker was convicted in California for conducting an illegal war with Mexico. Undeterred, he headed back south, eventually conquering Nicaragua where, as its newly inaugurated president, he legalized slavery. For Costa Ricans, the Battle of Rivas is their “Beaches
UPFRONT
Hundreds of riders each year make their way down the trail to the San Juan de Dios valley Cientos de jinetes van cada año por el sendero del valle de San Juan de Dios. HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 23
Raffle prizes range from rope to food grain, beer and saddles. Los premios de las rifas van desde sogas, a comida en grano para los caballos, cervezas y montaduras.
of Normandy” moment — at the last minute they banded together and managed to save all of Central America from the tyranny of a crazy gringo. Today, there is hardly any reference to the Battle of Rivas at the rancho where young couples, old men and young families have gathered to participate in the cabalgata. Perhaps the only remaining nod to Walker is the noticeable absence of gringos present at the event. While a number of hotels and resorts claim to offer “cabalgata experiences,” it is really just their fancy way of saying horseback ride. Costa Ricans guard their local tradition from tourist traffic. Announcements for the ride circle through private WhatsApp chats and a hand-painted sign in Spanish on the side of the road. Despite this low-key publicity, people flock from all over Perez Zeledon to Caña Blanca, sometimes with as many as 1,500 horses in tow.
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When you first lay eyes on the scene, it is impossible to escape the overwhelming presence of cowboy hats, boots, tight jeans, and ladies in rockabilly shirts tied up in a knot just above the waist. It feels like a kind of wild west fashion show where people take pride in keeping it real ranchera. howlermag.com
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