Costa Rica Howler Magazine - September 2020 by Howler Media Holding, Inc.

HOWLER HOWLER magazine C osta Ric a L i fe s t yl e , T r avel & Adv en tu r e m a g a z i n e

Costa Ric a L i fe s t yl e , T r av e l & Adv en t u r e

since 1996

Preserving Paradise

The CabalgatA Costa Rica's Hidden Cowboys

English/Spanish/Audio

Free copy Free copy SEPTEMBER AUGUST 2020 2020

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Howler Troop For This Issue

owler is pleased to share in our September e-magazine some unique perspectives on the lifestyle and culture that writer Mary Martin Mason has wholeheartedly embraced since relocating to Costa Rica. The original blog content she adapted for this purpose is sure to inform and entertain readers in two fascinating subject areas. “Blog … If You Dare” covers the gamut of questions, answers and advice that expats and expat wannabes freely exchange in forums devoted to everything folks want to know about Costa Rica (or should know, according to many). “The Telenovela” looks at all of the reasons why fans throughout Latin America could never possibly get enough of this ever-popular guilty pleasure.

Mary Martin Mason is a published author whose latest book, Casa de Doloros, was inspired by her experiences and adventures as a U.S. expat living in Atenas, Costa Rica. She is a regular writer for the Mango Musings blog, and an award-winning former columnist with The Southwest Journal in Minneapolis, who also taught high school English in Houston, Japan and Minnesota.

WRITERS Lyndsay Bilodeau. Co-owner of Plant Revolution Costa Rica and an artist/maker. This plant lady loves the ocean, surfing, dogs, hiking and photography. Joanna Blanco. Integrative nutritional health coach who helps clients embrace wellness in five inter-connected areas of life: relationships, livelihood, physical activity, spiritual awareness and diet. Alei Burns. The Bookstore of the Waves owner, New Yorkraised librarian, passionate book and surf lover. Mary Byerly. HIghly certified yoga instructor. Guiding others to live vibrantly, creating positive change one person at a time. panaceacr@gmail.com Charlene Golojuch. Co-owner of Hidden Garden Art Gallery with husband, Greg. www.HiddenGardenArt.com Ivan Granados. Managing Partner at GM Attorneys, specializing in real estate and corporate law. igranados@ gmattorneyscr.com Kate Hanley. Freelance writer, teacher, surfer and owner of Pura Vida Board Gear in Jacó. Also a dedicated volunteer and advocate for community service, education and environmental protection. Follow her on instagram @ puravidaboardgear

Lori Anne Haskell. Wildlife and birding stalker based in Herradura, Costa Rica, who spends her days hiking and travelling with her camera. Finds joy in capturing the personality of birds and animals and sharing the images and stories with the world. Find her on Facebook and Instagram @puravidablonde, and email: loriannehaskell@gmail.com. Laura Méndez. Founder of Pura Vida Vibrations. Offering sound journeys, breath work experiences, cacao ceremonies and other activities. hello@puravidavibrations. com Jim Parisi. Former owner of Jaime Peligro Bookstore, now called "Bookstore of the Waves." Tamarindo resident for many years. jaimepeligro123@hotmail.com Rick Philps. Canadian lawyer who moved to Costa Rica in 1998. He has practiced law here for 17 years, having continued his education in civil law and notary and registry law. Offers legal due diligence seminars and consultations in the Gold Coast area for ex-pats moving, or considering moving, to Costa Rica. Contact rick@costaricacanadalaw. com or visit www.costaricacanadalaw.com Tom Schultz. BS Biology and Geology, avid birder and nature photographer, retired software executive. tom@ pananima.com Herbert Weinman, MD, MBA. Contact Dr. Weinman at thedoctorisinsharkfm@gmail.com

Ben Harris. Dive Officer with Sea Shepherd crews, assisting with local logistics, deck and media. Dive experience in Galapagos, Cocos, Malpelo and Coiba.

PHOTOGRAPHERS 8

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Jalil El Harrar. Professional photographer from Germany, now living in Jacó Costa Rica, specializing in wildlife, surf and real estate photography. Visit his Naturfotographie website or follow him on Facebook. Dan Jenkins. International professional photographer whose images of surfers in Costa Rica have been widely featured. Jorge A. Russell. Professional photographer from Chile, now based in Jacó. Diverse expertise in both outdoor and studio settings. 8836-6475. Visit jorgerussellphotographer Fabián Sánchez. Playa Tamarindo surf photographer for over 12 years, including five years for Federación de Surf Costa Rica, and producer of Surfing Nation Magazine. WhatsApp: 7271-6292. Instagram @fabiansanchez_images and @surfingnationmag living in Costa Rica. Visit his Naturfotographie website or follow him on Facebook. Lee Skidmore. Photographer who started and fell in love with surfing in Domenical a year ago. Follow Lee on Instagram @ lee_foto_where this photo was taken.. Phillip Yingling. Photographer in Costa Rica. Follow on Instagram

September 2020 Vol. 25 No. 7 Publisher / Editor-in-Chief John B. Quam Creative Director Terry Carlile Graphic Design Cover Design: Terry Carlile Editorial Staff Debbie Bride - Editorial Coordinator Laurie Quam - Copy Editor Marketing Terry Carlile Victoria Rice Kelly Norris Mary Fernández

Contact John Quam headmonkey@howlermag.com Editor editor@howlermag.com Advertising info@howlermag.com CR Office: (506) 4701-5942 US Office: (303)952-0337 (leave message) The opinions, beliefs and viewpoints expressed by the various authors in this publication do not necessarily reflect the opinions, beliefs and viewpoints of Howler organization or its advertisers. The Howler Magazine does not assume responsibility for the content of its advertisements. Images not credited are acquired from stock photography services. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission requests write to: info@howlermag.com. Copyright © 2020 The Howler Gold Coast CR S.A. Copyright © 2020 Howler Media Holding, Inc. Panama The Howler Gold Coast CR S.A. Ced. Juridica: 3-101-725213 HOWLER ( )2017 TM

Spanish Translation CPI Flamingo HOWLER (™) 2017

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EDITORIAL

Light is Shining Through People are exiting their dens their dens, ready to enjoy the sunlight, the beaches, the fresh air and the pura vida that Costa Rica offers.

hings are beginning to change in Costa Rica. The government has issued new requirements to enter the country and the light is starting to shine through. It will get easier as we progress. Businesses have started to roll out the sidewalks and the buzz of getting ready for tourist season is evident. Slowly, more nationals have been making it to the country’s beach communities. And now with the airports allowing foreign visitors to enter, international tourism can begin revitalizing. It really feels good to see this. Of course, it is sad that recent economic hardships have been too severe for many businesses to reopen. However, the evolution of new business offerings is something we can anticipate with optimism. This is a time to recreate and emerge with innovative concepts as part of the so-called new norm. I feel very positive about the rebound for Costa Rica’s 2020-21 tourist season. The world has been hibernating for the past five or six months. Now people are exiting

Nature has had an uninterrupted rest during this same extended period. I am sure the rest has done wonders that we have not been aware of on the surface. This rebirth of nature will prove to be an unforeseen benefit of our normal human existence being interrupted for such a long spell. Meanwhile, Howler has remained a source of great articles promoting this wonderful country. We never stopped striving to bring the world to Costa Rica. Even though it has been a very tough endeavor to remain in business, I know the future is very bright. We have received many emails from readers thanking us for continuing. I appreciate hearing from you and knowing that we are well received and shared with others. This applies to our e-magazines and also our social media platforms, which have been bustling with activity. These engagements with tourists provide every indication of the plans they are making for escape to our paradise. As we move forward with the reopening of Costa Rica, I anticipate a boom from people just waiting to be here as soon as they can. These people around the world have been inundated with information and have interacted. In fact, I’m aware of instances where realtors have

sold properties here to overseas buyers, sight unseen. The new Flamingo Marina is coming along well. I am sure that the lighter than usual traffic has helped this major construction project move smoothly. We look forward to the marina’s economic impact on the region. The Jacó area has been very supportive of the efforts that Kelly Norris has made on Howler’s behalf. The community has been so wonderful to work with. From the wide-ranging subjects and sources of content in the regional Jacó section of our e-magazine, you see many examples of how they come together to make things happen in a very positive way. Tamarindo and other communities in the Gold Coast region have been harder hit than Jacó because of the relatively limited visitor accessibility. The distance from San José makes it harder to get here. But the level of active involvement and community support in the Tamarindo area to take care of those in need has been encouraging. Tough times like this really do bring communities together. We all benefit from sharing and caring.

HOWLER John B. Quam

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Cover: Restoring Paradise

Travel & Adventure

Surfing CR Arts, Culture & Entertainment

Pura Vida Jacรณ Spotlight

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COVER STORY

Preserving Paradise

UPFRONT

How a Cow Pasture Becomes a Protected Nature Reserve

Story and photos by Tom Schultz

“They paved paradise And put up a parking lot With a pink hotel, a boutique And a swinging hot spot Don't it always seem to go That you don't know What you've got til it's gone They paved paradise And put up a parking lot” Joni Mitchell, “Big Yellow Taxi” , 1970

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e are fortunate in Costa Rica to have a government that has seen the value of protecting the country’s wild places and forests, and for good reasons: almost 70% of foreign tourists list their desire to visit parks or natural areas as a major reason to travel here.

Howler’s June 2020 e-magazine cover story chronicled the birth and evolution of Costa Rica’s system of parks and wildlife refuges, which protects over 25% of the entire nation’s terrain. Unfortunately, the government’s financial ability to expand or even maintain the parks has always been limited, and will worsen due to the country’s current economic crises. Is there a way an individual or group can help? Can you actually protect a piece of Costa Rica? For those of us who came of age with the inaugural Earth Day and birth of the environmental movement a half-century ago, saving paradise has been a dream, if not a vocation. For some, the idea of saving a beautiful part of the world for future generations is a key reason for moving to Costa Rica. It was for us. The Finca Dos story When we arrived here in 2010, we purchased a finca of three hectares (7.5 acres) in the canton of Puriscal. (A hectare is 1,000 square meters. The Greek root word “hecto” represents 100 as a metric system unit, so a hectare is 100 meters by 100 meters, or about 2.5 acres). Eight acres is nice, but we wanted to have a little more impact, so a few years later when the finca next to ours was put up for sale, we were interested. These adjacent 10 hectares of land had been used for farming, but mostly for grazing cattle and horses. After about a year of negotiations (learning Tico property sale

negotiation is a subject for another article), we settled on a price. Since we had our finca and now the second one across from it, our worker jokingly started calling it “finca dos.” The name stuck, so our entire property is now known as Finca Dos. Wow … almost 35 acres now! This was big enough to do something with, but what? Could we protect these acres? If so, how would we go about doing it? The first — and as it turns out, the most important — step is to figure out what you want to do with the land. We were interested in two things. First, we wanted to provide land cover and a forest for birds and other animals, but especially birds, since we are avid birders. Second, we hoped to restore the land and the trees to what was there before being deforested. Like most of Costa Rica, Puriscal was forested 150 years ago. Here in the transition area to tropical dry forest, tropical hardwoods thrived. Trees such as cocobolo (rosewood), caoba (mahogany), cristobal, ron-ron, nazareno and guyacan all flourished. A full-size tropical hardwood can take 200 years to mature. Those former forests must have been majestic. But by the time we acquired Finca Dos, it was mostly cow pasture. So our first task was to try to bring back traditional plants and trees.

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COVER STORY

Forest restoration We did not just want to plant trees as a “plantation,” even though it is a common forest protection option in Costa Rica to grow trees such as teak for harvesting later.

UPFRONT

Instead, we set out to try to locate all the ancient hardwoods that used to grow in our region. This took us far and wide throughout the country. Our research revealed that several, but not many, sources are available for reforestation trees. Perhaps the biggest and easiest to use is the national power company, Instituto Costarricense de Electricidad (ICE). Since the protection of water resources is important for hydro power generation, ICE has several vivero forestal tree nurseries that you can visit seasonally. There you can purchase hundreds, if not thousands, of trees at an incredible price — almost nothing. They are mostly fastgrowing pioneer species, but also great for covering previously cut areas. ICE has one vivero in La Garita and another in La Cangreja National Park. You can contact the park on Facebook to learn when trees become available, which is usually right before the beginning of the rainy season. 18

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You can even promote your preserve if you are interested in ecotourism.

The University of Costa Rica (UCR) and Technological of Costa Rica (TEC) are another good source of trees for reforestation. Both institutions have vivero forestals where seedlings of the more threatened species may be obtained. Contact TEC in Cartago through its website or Facebook page. There are also several private sources. In the Central Valley we found that the canton of Santa Ana town park and Fundazoo have a wonderful vivero that has many valuable trees. Visit the website. El Guardian del bosque is another private tree supplier, specializing in only threatened and endangered Costa Rican species. Visit the website or Facebook page. Almost four years of searching enabled us to slowly acquire almost all of the desired tropical hardwoods, and others, for replanting on Finca Dos. The birds and other animals are returning! (Click here for that feature) We have cataloged almost 160 species of birds, white-tailed deer, sloth, tamandua and even an ocelot, along with the return of butterflies, frogs and lizards. Then came the next question: how to protect our paradise? howlermag.com

Protecting Finca Dos We could simply state that we have protected land, and let people take our word for it. But for anyone wanting to “officially” protect their land and have it recognized, there are two steps to take. The first is to get part of your land officially protected, and the best way is through the Fonafifo Program (click here for more). The process to get your property protected by Fonafifo, and receive payments is — typical of all dealings with Costa Rica’s bureaucracy — an interesting learning experience. Fonafifo has an open application once a year, for less than three weeks. That window is from January 4 to 27, and if you miss it, you wait until the following year. If you make it, you must apply for an appointment via the Fonafifo website. The appointment application is easy to complete, but make sure how your land is titled. If it is in the name of a corporation, make sure you make the appointment in the name of the corporation. We did ours in my name, and only with the kindness of the secretary involved did we get it accepted. You are given a date sometime between March and July, depending on the type of program. There are at least a dozen different ways to apply based on the intention, such as planting sustainable plantations for harvest, or the protection of forest, watersheds, or endangered or threatened tree species, for example. If you are applying for any protection, we were counseled to just use “protection of forest” as the category.

You need to fill out a set of forms and include a plot plan that you can get online through the National Registry. You must go in person to have your documents reviewed and approved, with the important piece of information that you are protecting at least two hectares. When your documents are accepted you wait until the deadline has passed, and if approved, Fonafifo informs you. Forest survey We received our approval via an email notifying us that we had 10 working days to get a forest survey performed on our land. Why this was not part of the application process … well, you just roll with it in Costa Rica. This survey must be performed by an official Forest Regent who is licensed to perform forest studies. Most work out of the organization known as Oficinal National Forestal (ONF), which manages plantations and timber production. Luckily they give you some local numbers to call the ONF, or you can contact the office on Facebook.

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COVER STORY Our Forest Regent was a local and spent the day with us walking the land taking notes and recording GPS locations. The major reason we think it would be better for the forest survey to be done before the application process is that the Forest Regent really helped explain what gets covered under the different schemes for the Fonafifo program. As it turns out, our property is not fully eligible yet, and it would have been useful to know this earlier on. We have planted many valuable trees, ones that are now illegal to cut, but they are all too small to be considered yet in the Fonafifo program. The definition of â&#x20AC;&#x153;forestâ&#x20AC;? is very explicit and means trees that are 15 centimeters in diameter (about 5 to 6 inches) at the chest-high level. So our newly planted trees still need to grow large enough for us to receive credit. The Forest Regent also gave us ideas of different trees to intermix to make our existing forest better.

UPFRONT

At the end of the forest survey, we received a map of our property with the protected areas on it and the applicable type of protection in the Fonafifo program â&#x20AC;&#x201D; yet another reason to have the survey performed before your application. Out of our total 10 hectares submitted, a little over seven of them could be protected this year, with the survey to be redone in a couple of years when the newly planted trees

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are big enough to count. Our category of protection will provide us with about $30 a hectare per year to preserve the forest, a small amount to continue buying more endangered trees. But more important: it is officially protected. The future: The Finca Dos private nature reserve Our next step now that we have protected land is to join the network of private nature reserves here in Costa Rica: La Red de Reservas Naturales de Costa Rica. We enter this program early next year. This is a way to join with others in the protection of land and add your property to the official protected list (there are about 100,000 hectares contained in the private reserve program). You can even promote your preserve if you are interested in ecotourism. The only application requirement for entering the private reserve program is to have at least two hectares protected through some program (in our case, the Fonafifo program).

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You can contact the private nature reserve organization via its website or Facebook. So with a little work and knowledge of how to navigate Costa Rica’s system, in less than five years a cow pasture will become a protected private nature reserve. It’s a legacy we can achieve to enjoy, share with others and leave for posterity — our little piece of paradise preserved.

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COVER STORY

The Results The Birds are Returning

Photos: Tom Schultz

UPFRONT

Fiery-billed aracari

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Barred antshrike( male)

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Keel-billed toucan

Click “Howl” for various puzzles of some of the birds

Squirrel cuckoo

“We have seen and registered almost 160 bird species on Finca Dos.”

Click on the page to see more beautiful photographs

Common tody -flycather

Laughing falcon feedin on snake

Montezuma oropendola

Orange-chinned parakeet

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COVER STORY

Reforesting Costa Rica The Fonafifo Program

By Tom Schultz

n the early parts of the 20th century, more than 75% of Costa Rica was forest. Stretching from ocean to ocean, it was a remarkable mix of tropical forests with trees hundreds of years old. The hardwoods were the first to go, their precious lumber used for flooring, decking, furniture and even trinket inlay. By the 1940s most of the tropical hardwoods had been lumbered to a threatened status.

ECO-FEATURE

Then it got worse for the forests. In 1962, the Costa Rican government — considerably more “socialist” than today — passed the Ley de Tierras y Colonización, a law that would redistribute large areas of hacienda land to the campesinos (farmers) by the 1970s. The government “took” large areas of land for itself (Carara National Park is one example, as highlighted in a January 2020 Howler article) and gave the rest to people for their own development and use, mostly in 10-hectare finca plots.

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New owners of this redistributed land used it for whatever they could to make a living by farming. Unfortunately for the forests, at the same time the demand increased for cheap beef by the fast food industry. This led many farmers to cut down the trees on their land, selling the timber for what they could get and using the pasture to raise cattle for sale to the fast food chains like McDonalds and Burger King. The Fonafifo program

In the latter part of the 20th century, Costa Rica discovered that its forests were almost gone. By the mid -‘80s, only about 21% of Costa Rica remained forested, and those lands were mostly the national parks. As ecotourism expanded, the government’s sensitivity to deforestation intensified. There were calls to action, but most of the remaining land was in private hands. A comprehensive Forestry Law was passed in 1996, with the Fonafifo program’s creation being one outcome.

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It is considered one of the most successful public/private conservation programs in the world. Fonafifo is an acronym: Fondo Nacional de Financiamiento Forestal, or National Forest Fund. Its major component is called PSA, another acronym standing for Pago para Servicos Ambential — pay for environmental services. In other words, Fonafifo pays you to plant and protect trees. It is virtually unique in the world for a governmental program.

With the resources it receives, Fonafifo finances forestry projects, tree nurseries, ecotourism, environmental services generated by forests and forest plantations on private farms. It also provides money for conservation of biodiversity, water resources and scenic beauty, and for mitigation of greenhouse gases that cause climate change.

A portion of the monies going into the fund come from taxes, including part of the cost paid for every liter of gasoline or diesel you purchase here. It also works with International NGOs that provide monies for general conservation, carbon offset and carbon sequestration.

Costa Rica’s forest cover has increased from 21% at the end of the 1980s to more than 53% in 2010. Fonafifo was a key player in this recovery, protecting over 1 million hectares (2.5 million acres) through the payments to small and medium owners of land. It is considered one of the most successful public/private conservation programs in the world. (Learn about the author’s experience with the Fonafifo program in the article “Preserving Paradise” by clicking here.)

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TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

Tamarindo Pop Quiz By Jim Parisi & Alei Burns Photos courtesy of Valerie Townley

“T

ouristy” might be most people’s swift, no-brainer response if “Tamarindo” came up in a word association game. They might find it hard to believe how recently this description came to fit what is now one of Costa Rica’s most popular Pacific beach towns. In fact, it was barely a generation ago that Tamarindo was getting ready to make its mark on the map as such. The same goes for the surrounding Guanacaste province as a preferred destination for travelers. Tamarindo had been a fishing village for literally centuries, well before Guanacaste annexed itself to Costa Rica in 1824. That may be common knowledge for many local people living here. But for relative newcomers, visitors and others unaware, we offer these “modern” Tamarindo tidbits of history that may seem surprising.

1. Coopeguanacaste brought electricity to Tamarindo in 1974. Before that, there simply wasn’t any. 2. The rural aqueduct of Playa Tamarindo was constructed three years later, in 1977, through a combined effort by Instituto Costarricense de Acueductos y Alcantarillados (AyA) and Tamarindo residents. Before that, wells went dry and became salty before the start of a new rainy season. Water was at a premium, even more so back then.

COOL PLACES

3. Telephone lines did not arrive until 1996. Then came payphones and people waiting in line to use them when in service, which was sporadic at best.

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Longtime Tamarindo resident Valerie Townley recently moved back to California after spending many of the community’s early formative years raising a family here. We appreciate the vintage photos she made available to share with Howler readers.

Coopeguanacaste brought electricity to Tamarindo in 1974. Before that, there simply wasn’t any. 4. Into the early and mid-1970s, the PanAmerican Highway from the Nicaragua border all the way to Puntarenas was merely a gravel road. The dirt road leading into Tamarindo washed out during rainy season, so anyone wanting to leave had to walk to Villarreal to catch a bus. 5. The only flights from the U.S. to Costa Rica in 1970 were provided by Pan Am Airlines and flew to San José on a less-than-consistent basis. This is why so many people drove to Tamarindo, in vehicles that they could sleep in. 6. Blocks of ice were delivered by truck on Thursdays and could be counted on being puddles of semi-cold water by Sunday morning. 7. The first cabinas for visitors were built in 1965

and were rented almost exclusively by Ticos from Santa Cruz or San José. Hotel Tamarindo Diria was constructed in 1973 with the intention of catering to international travelers who were initially fishermen, not surfers, looking to catch marlin and sailfish off the coast. Papagayo Excursions began at about the same time in response to this influx of outside anglers. 8. It is no secret that Playa Tamarindo has become a mecca for surfers of all levels due initially to the two “Endless Summer” movies by surfer-filmmaker Bruce Brown. His close friend Robert August was one of the surfers featured in the original 1964 movie, and the reason Brown came to Tamarindo to film on location in the sequel nearly 30 years later.

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TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

August tells the story of meeting the late Russell Wenrich, an early developer here, at the 1990 Surf Expo in Orlando, Florida. Having touted Tamarindo on that occasion as the ideal surf spot, Wenrich later paid the airfare for August and a group of fellow surfers and filmmakers (including Brown and Robert “Wingnut” Weaver) to come visit. He even put them up for free in his cabinas because Wenrich saw the future potential of Tamarindo becoming a surfing destination point. The result was “Endless Summer II”. Russell was a visionary, to say the least.

And there are your fast and fun facts and minutiae trivia about Tamarindo for today. I hope you learned something at least a little interesting in this article, which would not have been possible without the help of Christina Spilsbury and Robert August. Thanks, guys.

COOL PLACES

9. Playa Tamarindo is bordered to the north and to the south by mangrove estuaries, the largest of this kind in Latin America. They play host to more than 175 species of birds, including crowned herons, egrets, white ibises and roseate spoonbills. 10. To the north, Las Baulas National Marine Park is home to the endangered leatherback (baula) turtle. More than 800 female adult turtles come to lay their eggs here as they make a slow, perilous comeback toward survival of their species. The female, which can weigh up to 1,500 pounds, lives in the ocean for 13 years before returning for the first time to lay her eggs (which can number up to 120) at the same location where she was born.

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GUEST ADVERTORIAL

What a Ride! By David Mills (Original Howler publication date: January/February 2020)

aving been kindly asked to write this guest editorial, I invite Howler readers to join me on a trip down memory lane to 1996. From my vantage point as retired co-founder of the magazine, we’ll look back on an incredible journey that was launched from a bumpy but unshakeable start. Nearing closer to the quarter-century milestone is no small longevity feat anywhere, especially in Costa Rica where businesses can rise and fail in a very short time. And if that is still a reality for many entrepreneurs here nowadays, try to imagine the obstacles they would have faced barely a century ago when Guanacaste remained a barely pioneered new frontier.

There was another public phone at Las Palmeras in the main street that also offered a fax service.

Roughing it

Buses and bikes

Road conditions were notoriously dreadful. Today’s short trek from Tamarindo to Villarreal took half an hour on the pitted lastre road (Costa Rica's renowned gravel and dirt road surfacing material). Driving on to Santa Cruz would take another 90 minutes.

The Liberia print shop we chose to produce 500 copies told us the job would take a few days. Not having a car, we relied on buses that made only one round trip daily from Tamarindo, three hours each way. Arriving at the printer on a Thursday to pick up our magazines, I was assured they were “almost ready.” What awaited inside was chaos, with hundreds of loose sheets strewn around. The twostep manual collating process required one muchacho to punch the staples through the center of each unfolded pair of sheets and his co-worker to flatten them in folded place with a screwdriver.

There was no bank within miles of Tamarindo, but there were travelling tellers who made a weekly bus trip to town and parked in The Circle. You lined up on the left side and handed in your dollars to a teller who wrote down the serial numbers of each one. Then you went to the right side of the bus where another teller recorded the serial numbers of the colones you received in exchange. There were no phones in town, except one for public use at a Tamarindo restaurant in The Circle. You gave the number you were calling to the attendant who dialed it. When your party answered, she handed you the phone and hit a stopwatch. At the end of the call she charged you so much per minute.

In a moment of lunacy, my friend, Lee, and I decided to publish a magazine to inform readers about local happenings. The first edition was an eight-pager — two double-sided wide sheets stapled in the centerfold.

Seeing no chance of the task being finished without missing our return bus departure, we grabbed all the finished magazines and the loose sheets, plus the stapler, and dashed off. At home, we finished stapling the 500 magazines before proudly distributing them around Tamarindo, Flamingo and Potrero on our bicycles. The road from Huacas to Flamingo was all lastre so it was strenuous work. HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 35

For the Howler’s second monthly issue we found a small firm in Santa Cruz to print 1,000 copies. All seemed fine until our return bus trip from picking up the finished magazines. We discovered too late that rainwater during a torrential downpour en route had leaked through a bus floor hole where our backpack full of magazines had been placed. All our Howlers were soaked! We hung them on a clothesline to dry, which took a couple of days. Our sole reliance on bike transportation served us well during month three. With no threat of rain, we cycled to Santa Cruz, dropped off the magazine content file on a disk and cycled back three days later to pick up the printed copies. The all-lastre road between Tamarindo and Santa Cruz gave us a great workout, which continued during the days we spent distributing the magazine by bike.

Countless times, my friends would wonder, “Why don’t you give up? It’s an impossible job.” Well, the words ”give up” do not figure in my vocabulary, so I persisted in finding a great printer, Ardu in Curridabat, who never let me down. Thanks to its writers and loyal advertisers over the years, the Howler has grown in stature until the present day. In the meantime, the Tamarindo area has seen many improvements. The road to Villarreal was paved, as was the road to Flamingo, and then to Santa Cruz. A really posh bridge now crosses the Tempisque River; no need to go to Liberia to get to San José. Everyone has a phone, and all banking services are available at all three banks in Tamarindo. And, lo and behold, they are paving the road to Langosta!

Our publishing venture then took some turns for a different kind of worse when we started sending each magazine disk to a printing service in Cartago. Not only did this printer always fail to ever deliver the magazine on time, but was nothing short of a liar. One month he told me,“We printed it on time, but we had a break-in.” “What?” I said, “they stole all the Howlers?” “No, Don David,” he replied. “But they broke in through the roof and it rained overnight, and guess what was sitting under the hole? The Howler … it was ruined.” I called back a couple of days later to see how the reprint was going, asking the receptionist, “Any news on the break-in?”

All our Howlers were soaked! We hung them on a clothesline to dry, which took a couple of days.

“What break-in?” she answered.

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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 37

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

Costa Rican Ants Need Better PR By Jim Parisi & Alei Burns

Leaf cutter

ccording to The Encyclopedia Britannica, ants are second only to human beings as the most social and communal animals on earth. Some philosophers and myrmecologists (scientists who study ants) have suggested that this order should be reversed.

Evolved from wasps, Formicidae — the ant family of insects — has been on the planet for an estimated 150 million years. The human species, by comparison, began around 300 thousand years ago.

CREATURE FEATURE

In Costa Rica, ants comprise about one quarter of the total biomass of terrestrial animals — an astounding ratio. The average colony has a population between one and two million citizens, although larger colonies have been observed with up to five million inhabitants. The "caste" social structure of an ant community is simple: the queen and her male escorts, called "drones," who also serve as sentries for the queen's quarters, are the only two members of the species to sport wings. A drone dies after reproducing with the queen, who lays up to 1,000 eggs a day and can live up to 30 years. The entire ant workforce is made up of sterile females. Ants are practically blind, so they communicate with each other using pheromones and their sense of touch. 38

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Costa Rica is home to 156 endemic species, many of them restricted to specific locales. There are three predominant ant families in this country. Army ant (Ecitoninae) Sometimes called zompopos, this is a transient ant species that bivouacs at night and resides in hollow logs, detritus or just under the surface of the ground. Army ants raid the homes of other insects and small animals in search of larvae and eggs. Predatory birds, such as the motmot, follow army ant colonies, preying on insects trying to escape. If a colony of army ants visits your abode, they will rid the place of scorpion, wasp and hornet nests within two days, then be on their way. This explains the Spanish nickname limpiadores (cleaners), suggesting these guys really need a new PR agent. Acacia ant (Pseudomyrmex) These ants are named for the bullhorn acacia trees they inhabit. The plant is known for its clusters of large, hollow thorns which provide a place for the howlermag.com

Leaf-cutters do not eat the leaves they are seen transporting. ants to rear their young. These thorns also supply water and nectar for the ants. At the tips of the acacia plants' young leaves, tiny red beltian buds sprout, for no apparent reason other than to provide protein for its guardian ants. The acacia ants reciprocate with defense and security against herbivore insects, such as crickets. They also consume invasive plants around the base of the acacia tree, thus creating one of nature's many symbiotic relationships. These tiny, aggressive red ants swarm upon the approach of any animal, be it goat or human.

Leaf-cutters do not eat the leaves they are seen transporting. Inside their intricate nests, they grow a fungus garden. First, the ants chew the leaves into a mold that resembles dough, which they feed to the fungus. Then, the ants consume the fungus once it has matured. This mold also serves to keep toxic fungi from propagating in the nest. Interestingly, this fungus is now grown in labs as an ingredient for many human antibiotics.

Leaf-cutter ant (Acromyrmex) This is the most evident and recognizable Costa Rican ant. Able to lift 50 times their own weight, leaf-cutter ants live in a large nest with several entrances and "backdoor" escapes. They also build "false tunnels" that are not for their own navigation but apparently for ventilation and to confuse predators.

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 39

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE Cleanliness is key in the leaf-cutter ant nests. Therefore, aging colony members are given the job of moving waste to outside dumpsites where the ants also go to die. Other "popular" ants residing in Costa Rica include: Sugar ant (Camponotus consobrinus) This member of the carpenter ant genus is native to Australia, but now thrives around the globe, particularly in and around wooded areas. Sugar ants have a two-caste system that differentiates the soldier from smaller worker ants. The sugar ant can become nocturnal, perhaps to avoid heavy competition with diurnal ants. Azteca ant (Leptomyrmecini) These strictly neotropical ants have a symbiotic relationship with the bamboo-like Cecropia plant, very much like Acacia ants have with the tree they are named for. Whether nesting inside the Cecropia or underground nearby, Aztecas build carton nests attached by a series of tunnels. They are notoriously aggressive.

Mayaponera ant (Pachycondyla) Although prevalent throughout Costa Rica, these ants tend to live in small colonies so little is known about their habits. Most discovered colonies have been on developed farms, particularly cacao plantations. Mayaponera ants play host to a parasitic mite that consumes them after they die, making the study of this genus difficult. Respect elders in numbers An average human being weighs the same as about one million ants, while the weight of all humans on the planet equals roughly the weight of all the ants here. So, yes, they outnumber us! And let's not forget: ants have a history 500 times older than that of human beings. So let's have a little respect for our elders, the limpiadores of our home. It seems a conundrum that ants invade our homes to avoid the rain and re-enter during dry spells, in search of water. The reality is that ants, as a community, have one goal: survival. Since they live largely underground, they "come inside" (carrying eggs and infants) to avoid drowning. Likewise, during a drought, they revisit our homes in search of water because their normal supplies (plants, rivulets, etc.) are temporarily unavailable. Most ant species ignore our houses when nature is flourishing, particularly in the spring and autumn.

CREATURE FEATURE

Sugar ants

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A natural reaction when being attacked by ants is to immediately try to brush them off our bodies. That is understandable. In truth, we have invaded the ants' home — their terrain — and they are protecting the colony. The best initial reaction is to quickly move 20 feet or more away from where you are standing to get away from the ant nest, then concentrate on getting those ants off your pants!

Bug sprays are a temporary solution at best, doing nothing to divert the ant colony — meaning the queen. Since ants are attracted to light during the night, this may be the simplest and most effective way to keep outdoor ants from entering your home: "We'll leave the porch light on for you."

Leaf cutter

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 41

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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 45

Tide Chart September 2020

for Puntarenas, Costa Rica visit www.CRsurf.com for tide charts, surf reports, and help with trip planning.

SeptemberTide Chart FULL MOON - September 1st NEW MOON - September 17th

Full moon 1st Half Moon 10th New Moon 17th High

Low

High

Low

High

Day

Time/Height

Sep 1

Tue

02:11 / 8.42 ft

08:15 / 1.08 ft

14:25 / 8.65 ft

20:38 / 0.45 ft

Sep 2

Wed

02:54 / 8.75 ft

08:58 / 0.79 ft

15:07 / 8.80 ft

21:16 / 0.27 ft

Sep 3

Thu

03:32 / 8.99 ft

09:36 / 0.58 ft

15:46 / 8.86 ft

21:51 / 0.20 ft

Sep 4

Fri

04:08 / 9.12 ft

10:13 / 0.47 ft

16:23 / 8.82 ft

22:25 / 0.24 ft

Sep 5

Sat

04:43 / 9.12 ft

10:48 / 0.47 ft

16:59 / 8.64 ft

22:59 / 0.41 ft

Sep 6

Sun

05:18 / 8.99 ft

11:23 / 0.59 ft

17:35 / 8.35 ft

23:32 / 0.70 ft

Sep 7

Mon

05:53 / 8.74 ft

11:59 / 0.82 ft

18:11 / 7.97 ft

Date

Sep 8

Tue

00:07 / 1.07 ft

06:29 / 8.41 ft

12:37 / 1.14 ft

18:51 / 7.52 ft

Sep 9

Wed

00:44 / 1.50 ft

07:07 / 8.02 ft

13:19 / 1.49 ft

19:34 / 7.07 ft

Sep 10

Thu

01:26 / 1.93 ft

07:52 / 7.64 ft

14:07 / 1.83 ft

20:26 / 6.70 ft

Sep 11

Fri

02:16 / 2.30 ft

08:46 / 7.32 ft

15:04 / 2.07 ft

21:29 / 6.51 ft

Sep 12

Sat

03:18 / 2.52 ft

09:50 / 7.19 ft

16:10 / 2.09 ft

22:38 / 6.62 ft

Sep 13

Sun

04:29 / 2.45 ft

10:59 / 7.32 ft

17:17 / 1.84 ft

23:43 / 7.05 ft

Sep 14

Mon

05:38 / 2.05 ft

12:03 / 7.72 ft

18:16 / 1.34 ft 19:09 / 0.71 ft

Sep 15

Tue

00:40 / 7.72 ft

06:40 / 1.39 ft

12:59 / 8.29 ft

Sep 16

Wed

01:29 / 8.52 ft

07:33 / 0.62 ft

13:50 / 8.91 ft

19:57 / 0.05 ft

Sep 17

Thu

02:16 / 9.31 ft

08:22 / -0.13 ft

14:37 / 9.47 ft

20:42 / -0.53 ft

Maui...Jan 2020 Massive Waves: Sep 18

Fri

03:01 / 9.99 ft

09:09 / -0.73 ft

15:23 / 9.87 ft

21:27 / -0.93 ft

Sep 19

Sat

03:46 / 10.45 ft

09:55 / -1.11 ft

16:09 / 10.04 ft

22:12 / -1.09 ft

Sep 20

Sun

04:31 / 10.64 ft

10:41 / -1.20 ft

16:55 / 9.95 ft

22:58 / -0.97 ft

Sep 21

Mon

05:17 / 10.52 ft

11:29 / -1.00 ft

17:44 / 9.61 ft

23:45 / -0.58 ft

Sep 22

Tue

06:06 / 10.11 ft

12:19 / -0.55 ft

18:35 / 9.07 ft

Sep 23

Wed

00:35 / 0.03 ft

06:58 / 9.49 ft

13:13 / 0.07 ft

19:31 / 8.43 ft

Sep 24

Thu

01:31 / 0.74 ft

07:56 / 8.77 ft

14:13 / 0.72 ft

20:35 / 7.83 ft

Sep 25

Fri

02:35 / 1.42 ft

09:02 / 8.13 ft

15:21 / 1.25 ft

21:48 / 7.46 ft

Sep 26

Sat

03:50 / 1.87 ft

10:15 / 7.72 ft

16:36 / 1.49 ft

23:02 / 7.41 ft

Sep 27

Sun

05:09 / 1.96 ft

11:27 / 7.63 ft

17:47 / 1.44 ft

Sep 28

Mon

00:08 / 7.65 ft

06:18 / 1.75 ft

12:30 / 7.78 ft

18:46 / 1.21 ft

Sep 29

Tue

01:03 / 8.01 ft

07:13 / 1.40 ft

13:22 / 8.03 ft

Sep 30

Wed

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01:48 / 8.39 ft

07:58 / 1.02 ft

14:06 / 8.29 ft

19:33 / 0.94 ft 20:13 / 0.70 ft

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SURFINâ&#x20AC;&#x160;G COSTA RICA

Photo feature by Lee Skidmore See more photos on the Featured Photographer pages. Instagram: lee_foto__ Lee began and fell in love with surfing in Dominical one year ago where this photo was taken.

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 47

COSTA RICA SURF

Ángela Aguilar González Waves of Passion for Jacó Surf Champion and Instructor

By Howler Staff

n addition to multiple achievements that set Angela Aguilar González apart as a surfing competitor and instructor, her inland urban upbringing is an unusual mark of distinction. Angela is the first and only Costa Rican woman born and raised in San José to surf professionally in the National Surfing Circuit and consistently rank among the top female surfers. Distance from the beaches on both coasts while growing up in the capital city was no deterrent to her passion for surfing. It found her moving initially to Dominical, on the south Pacific coast, to surf the famous waves on that beach and start pursuing her goals as a female surfer. Two years later Aguilar moved to Jacó beach in the central Pacific area, where she has continued to thrive as part of Costa Rica’s first generation of female surfing pros. "I've known the best waves around Costa Rica and dedicated myself to competing nationally," she told us. “My favorite spots are Hermosa Beach, Jacó and Pavones.”

SURF PROFILE

During her career, Angela’s sponsors have included several different bikini brands, Manual Surf and Skate surfboards, Build Your Dream Cori Motors and the Sesderma beauty skin care brand. Being one of Costa Rica’s few female surf instructors with such extensive knowledge and expertise in the sport, as well as a competitive track record, puts Aguilar in another class of her own.

Remarkably in 2019, Angela put some 2,000 surf trainees in the water during high season, significantly augmenting her professional teaching experience beyond the International Surfing Association degree course she completed.

“I love pushing people to surf because they think they cannot,” she said. “But I am sure with my instruction you will be able to surf and have fun.”

To contact Angela, visit her social media pages: Instagram @angelaaguilarg and Facebook @Angela Aguilar-Atleta.

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‘I love pushing people to surf because they think they cannot.’

Photo: Dan Jenkins Photography HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 49

COSTA RICA SURF

SURF PROFILE

Photo: Jorge Russell

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Photo: Fabiansanchez_surfingimages

Ángela Aguilar González Jacó Surf Campeona e Instructora

ngela Aguilar González nació y creció en San José Costa Rica su amor y pasión por el surf la llevo a mudarse a playa Dominical donde surfeo increíbles olas y se inició como deportista en el surf.

Dos años después se mudó a playa Jacó en el Pacífico central de Costa Rica. El motivo principal por el cual se mudó hacia playa Jacó fue porque su gran pasión por surfear y competir. “He conocido las mejores olas alrededor de Costa Rica y me dediqué a competir a nivel nacional”. Mis spots favoritos son playa Hermosa, jaco y Pavones. Angela Aguilar fue la primera y única mujer en Costa Rica oriunda de San Jose que surfeo profesionalmente un Circuito Nacional de Surf siempre manteniéndose entre las 7 mejores surfistas femeninas del país. Angela también es una de las componentes de la primera generación del surf pro femenino en Costa Rica. Durante su carrera, fue patrocinada por diferentes marcas de bikinis, Manual Surf & Skate tablas de surf, Built Your Dream Cori Motors y Sesderma marca de cuidado de la piel de belleza.

Ahora se dedica a enseñar surf siendo una de las pocas instructoras de surf femeninas de Costa Rica con todo el conocimiento del surf, olas, competencia y enseñanza de surf. En el 2019 Angela puso a 2000 personas en el agua en temporada alta, dándole una gran experiencia en la instrucción de surf profesional además de su curso en la ISA (International Surfing Association) para ser instructora certificada a nivel mundial. “Me encanta llevar a mis estudiantes al limite del esfuerzo en surf ya que ellos piensan que no lo van a lograr pero yo se que con mi instrucción si van poder surfear y divertirse.” Los invito a seguirme en mis redes Instagram: @ angelaaguilarg y pagina de Facebook Angela AguilarAtleta.

Photo: Jalil El Harrar

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 51

COSTA RICA SURF FEATURE

Featured Photographer: Lee Skidmore Follow him on Instagram: lee_foto__

Leeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s photos in Dominical

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Leeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s photos in Tamarindo

Send us your best surfing photography for the opportunity to be included in future issues! info@howlermag. com

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 53

The JADE Museum

Joe Hrbek

Charly Lopez

ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT

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Building a Masterpiece 54

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Click here to vote for your top 3 desserts!

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Pure Passion Private Chef & Catering Service

Jose Luis Rodriguez 56

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200 m. west of the Brasilito/Huacas crossroads

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 57

ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT

The Artistic Language of

Gilberto Aquino Pérez Inspiration Finds Him Working Daily By Charlene Golojuch

Photos courtesy of Hidden Garden Art Gallery

wirls of rich colors and amazing textures are the central features in paintings by artist Gilberto Aquino Pérez. A self-taught artist from El Salvador, Aquino Pérez relocated to Costa Rica in 1972. "I have a habit when I talk on the phone; if I'm at a table and I have paper and pencil or something to write, I start drawing," he tells us. Aquino Pérez did just that over 30 years ago and while scribbling he created a very small Chinese ink drawing that he later placed aside in a book. Little did he know that coming across the sketch decades later it would become the inspiration for one of his most popular series, "Colibríes" ("Hummingbirds"), a recurring theme in some of his works.

ARTIST SPOTLIGHT

Deeply etched in Gilberto’s soul are these words of Spanish artist Pablo Picasso: "May inspiration find you working." Embracing a variety of subjects reveals his own language with his own expressions and style. "I enjoy the daily work of art and absolutely anything can provide me with motivation to start a new painting," he says.

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Curiosity as a child propelled Aquino Pérez to paint on pieces of board with lots of color, making his first landscapes and animals that he later varnished. But it wasn't until the early 1980s that he chose to create art full time. howlermag.com

"The beginning was not easy," he recalls, but perseverance and studies have led him to this moment in his life. Spending an enormous amount of time visiting art galleries and working with mentors, Aquino Pérez has captivated viewers for decades with his art and his painting flourishes. And today, he mentors many art students. Aquino Pérez has great affection for Panamanian artist Raúl Vásquez Sáez, whom he met in the early ‘80s. Spending long hours with Raúl, Gilberto was able to develop and discern the importance and differences of unique textures. This was his "aha moment” — the point that distinguished Gilberto's art from many others and became a style he has perfected since his first exhibit in 1991. Texture is a vital element that remains constant in his works, whether his medium is watercolor, acrylic or something else. “Jacaranda en Flor” HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 59

ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT

"I prefer painting with a lot of texture," says Aquino Pérez, "because it allows me to express myself to my liking, with a lot of color and in any subject I choose." "Raices" ("Roots") is a very special and symbolic series for Aquino Pérez. He reflects, "Although Salvadoran by birth, it was Costa Rica where I took root, where I took raíces, as it is popularly said, this being the country where I have developed my creative work from my beginnings." Presented with opportunities to travel and exhibit his works in many countries across Latin America, North America and Europe, Aquino Pérez has achieved numerous awards, including first place in the "Marco Aurelio Aguilar Two-Dimensional Bienal" in 2019 at Cartago, Costa Rica. “Aquino Mirada Musical”

ARTIST SPOTLIGHT

“Mirando Luna”

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For more information about Gilberto Aquino Pérez, please visit our website at www.HiddenGardenArt.com or contact us at info@HiddenGardenArt.com

Texture is a vital element that remains constant in his works.

“Raices” HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 61

El lenguaje artístico de Gilberto Aquino Pérez Los espirales de ricos colores y texturas sorprendentes son los rasgos centrales de las pinturas del artista Gilberto Aquino Pérez. Un artista autodidacta de El Salvador, Aquino Pérez se trasladó a Costa Rica en 1972. "Tengo un hábito cuando hablo por teléfono; si estoy en una mesa, tengo papel y lápiz o algo donde escribir, me pongo a dibujar", nos dice. Aquino Pérez hizo eso hace más de 30 años y mientras garabateaba creó un dibujo muy pequeño en tinta china que luego puso a un lado en un libro. Poco sabía él que al encontrar el boceto décadas más tarde se convertiría en la inspiración de una de sus series más populares, "Colibríes", un tema recurrente en algunas de sus obras. Profundamente grabadas en el alma de Gilberto están estas palabras del artista español Pablo Picasso: "Que la inspiración te encuentre trabajando". Abarcando una variedad de temas revela su propio lenguaje con sus propias expresiones y estilo. "Disfruto de la obra de arte diaria y absolutamente cualquier cosa puede proporcionarme la motivación para empezar una nueva pintura", dice.

La curiosidad de su infancia impulsó a Aquino Pérez a pintar con mucho color sobre trozos de tabla, haciendo sus primeros paisajes y animales que luego barnizó. Pero no fue hasta principios de los años 80 que eligió crear arte a tiempo completo. "El comienzo no fue fácil", recuerda, pero la perseverancia y los estudios lo han llevado a este momento de su vida. Pasando una enorme cantidad de tiempo visitando galerías de arte y trabajando con mentores, Aquino Pérez ha cautivado a los espectadores durante décadas con su arte y su pintura florida. Y hoy en día, es mentor de muchos estudiantes de arte. Aquino Pérez tiene un gran afecto por el artista panameño Raúl Vásquez Sáez, a quien conoció a principios de los 80. Pasando largas horas con Raúl, Gilberto fue capaz de desarrollar y discernir entre la importancia y las diferencias de las texturas únicas. Este fue su "momento aha" - el punto que distinguió el arte de Gilberto de muchos otros y se convirtió en un estilo que ha perfeccionado desde su primera exposición en 1991. La textura es un elemento vital que permanece constante en sus obras, ya sea que su medio sea la acuarela, el acrílico u otro. "Prefiero pintar con mucha textura", dice Aquino Pérez, "porque me permite expresarme a mi gusto, con mucho color y en cualquier tema que elija". "Raíces" es una serie muy especial y simbólica para Aquino Pérez. Reflexiona: "Aunque soy salvadoreño de nacimiento, fue en Costa Rica donde eché raíces, como se dice popularmente, siendo este el país donde he desarrollado mi trabajo creativo desde mis inicios". Presentado con oportunidades para viajar y exhibir sus obras en muchos países de América Latina, América del Norte y Europa, Aquino Pérez ha logrado numerosos premios, incluyendo el primer lugar en la "Bienal bidimensional Marco Aurelio Aguilar" en 2019 en Cartago, Costa Rica. Para obtener más información sobre Gilberto Aquino Pérez, visite el sitio web www. HiddenGardenArt.com o póngase en contacto con él al correo info@HiddenGardenArt.com.

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August

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PURA VIDA / LIVING COSTA RICA

Sinusitis A Very Common Condition Dr. Herbert Weinman

inusitis is the inflammation of the mucous membranes lining the paranasal sinuses. These small hollows full of air are divided into three sections: • frontal sinuses — located above the nose, in the frontal part of the skull • ethmoid sinuses — in the sides of the nose • maxillary sinuses — in the cheeks

THE DOCTOR IS IN

Normally, air passes through the sinuses without problems. But when these spaces are blocked, people with sinusitis can suffer discomfort and difficulties breathing. This pathology is very common in the general population and can present with a wide variety of symptoms, sometimes having an important impact on quality of life. The main cause of sinusitis are infections, either viral (the most frequent), bacterial or fungal. Allergies are another possible cause.

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Factors that predispose us to sinusitis are: • Climate variations — cold seasons and the increase in humidity • Tobacco — both being an active smoker and being exposed to smoke • Environmental or occupational exposures to pollution and irritants • Individual anatomical variations (nasal septum deviations and nasal polyps) • Allergies • Weak immune system • Enlarged adenoids • Exposure to forces such as gravity and pressure — flying, diving, mountaineering, etc.

Treatment of sinusitis is based mainly on symptomatic relief. howlermag.com

The main symptoms of this disease are: • Pain and pressure behind the eyes and in the maxillofacial area • Secretion and nasal congestion • Partial or total loss of the sense of smell • Fatigue and general malaise • Headache • Fever • Sore throat and drip between the nose and pharynx • Cough, which tends to get worse at night Treatment of sinusitis is based mainly on symptomatic relief. Analgesia in cases of pain, nasal washes with saline solutions (using a Netipot) or nasal decongestants may be useful. Although in most cases these treatments do not change the course of the disease, symptoms may improve. Systemic antibiotics are recommended in patients with acute sinusitis and risk factors such as fever, purulent mucus and unilateral pain on suspicion of bacterial superinfection.

In the case of chronic sinusitis, treatment is based mainly on intranasal corticosteroids. Nasal washes with saline solutions improve the treatment effect by removing the mucous that covers the nasal mucosa. In cases of exacerbations, systemic corticosteroid regimens and short courses of systemic antibiotics are usually necessary. In other cases, long courses of antibiotics have also shown benefit. If the condition persists after proper medical treatment, patients could benefit from surgery with the aim of widening the openings and draining the sinuses. Self-care can also help reduce sinus congestion. The following are recommended to reduce symptoms: • Drink plenty of fluids to dilute secretions • Inhale steam two to four times a day • Use a humidifier to reduce environmental dryness • Apply hot, damp cloths to the face several times a day • Use nasal decongestants

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 69

PURA VIDA / LIVING COSTA RICA

The Wild Woman Within

“W

By Laura Méndez

ithin every woman there lives a powerful force, filled with good instincts, passionate creativity, and ageless knowing. She is the Wild Woman, who represents the instinctual nature of women. But she is an endangered species.¨

The instant I read this introduction to the book I was holding in my hands, I knew I was about to discover something great. And I was not disappointed, which is why I am now recommending the same book to Howler readers: Women Who Run With Wolves by Clarissa Pinkola Estés.

I truly believe that every woman on the face of the earth should read this fascinating and insightful book. The iconic poet and social rights activist Maya Angelou felt the same way in urging that “everyone who can read should read this book.” Originally published in 1992 and released several more times in multiple languages, Women Who Run With Wolves has enjoyed enduring popularity worldwide. The author’s exploration of the wild woman archetype through myths, folklore, fairy tales and traditional stories from myriad cultures was groundbreaking on several fronts. The Mexican American Women’s Foundation recognized Estés with a Las Primeras award for being the first Latina writer on the New York Times best seller list, a position the book maintained for a then-record-breaking 145 weeks spanning three years. Besides reflecting the author’s professional credentials as a Jungian psychoanalyst, her writing is influenced by an upbringing rooted in ethnic traditions. Oral storytelling was a hallmark of her childhood in a rural village where many family members and neighbors did not read or write.

MINDFULNESS

An avid mind is always excited by points of new understanding gained from ancient knowledge and methods of healing. Reconnection to the wild woman Estés writes about is especially powerful in that regard. A central theme is that women have been kept in a very tight box for thousands of years, with constraints on how we should look, act, dress and speak. We have therefore lost touch with 70

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and forgotten our true desires and nature. Estés’s book teaches us to rethink all of that, unlearn and reacquaint ourselves with the wild woman within. But who is this wild woman? Within all women The wild woman is uniquely within all of us. She is our true nature, the one who thrives on creativity, passion, knowledge and sexuality. By reading this book you might be able to peel away the layers of conditioning until you find her within yourself again. Ask yourself this question: have you ever wondered about the feeling of being programmed to fit with a certain kind of woman? Maybe the program running in your mind is dictating the type of woman you are supposed to be, but are not. If so, it may be creating a lot of inner conflict and hence, manifesting as disharmony in your body. On the book’s first page, Estés conveys that the “spiritual lands of wild woman have, throughout history, been plundered or burnt, dens bulldozed, and natural cycles forced into unnatural rhythms to please others.” The path of self healing, she suggests, is filled with uncertainty. That is mainly because we have forgotten the stories and the ways that our human emotions and psyche work. Giving up the power of self knowledge to medical practitioners has caused us to forget our body´s capacity to communicate what it needs. Ignoring these needs can be expressed sometimes through sickness and disharmony. But our body is always speaking to us, and our wild psyche is always trying to speak to us! Listening to the messages that come from within are necessary for self healing. Through stories like those Estés tells, we can understand the wild woman that lives inside us … the one who is both magic and medicine. In her book we can find the words to help us reconnect with the fierce, healthy, visionary attributes of our instinctual nature.

I will leave you with the author’s widely cited “General Wolf Rules For Life.¨ 1. Eat 2. Rest 3. Rove in between 4. Render loyalty 5. Love the children 6. Cavil in the moonlight 7. Tune your ears 8. Attend to the bones 9. Make love 10. Howl * * For women who are constantly struggling, Estés suggests starting with rule number 10 and practice often. Find out more about this book, the author and how readers have responded at goodreads.com

‘Everyone who can read should read this book.’” — Maya Angelou HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 71

PURA VIDA / LIVING COSTA RICA

How to Know if Your CBD is Safe and Reliable By Vincent Bradshaw

WELLNESS FEATURE

espite some setbacks from the COVID-19 pandemic, the demand for CBD products continues to grow. A July 2020 report by Tecnavio projects the global CBD market will increase by US $3.52 billion from 2020 to 2024. CBD usage is increasing with growing recognition of potential health benefits from more than 500 distinct compounds in cannabis plants, including cannabinoids, terpenoids, flavonoids, and omega fatty acids. While many of these compounds still have not been explored, more than 1,200 scientific articles have discussed just one compound, cannabidiol or CBD. Disclaimer: For more than four years, I have used CBD products for joint pain relief. Also, as a project manager, I have worked on several cannabis industry projects since 2014.

There are many misconceptions about cannabis, including the notion that CBD comes only from hemp. Hemp and marijuana are both members of the cannabis sativa species. All cannabis plants contain CBD as well as THC, the psychoactive component that gives the “high.” 72 | #searchfindhowl | online

However to be legally classified as “hemp,” the plant must contain less than 0.3% or 0.2% THC, depending on the jurisdiction. So in truth, you can get CBD either from hemp, which is mostly unregulated, or marijuana, which is a controlled substance in most countries. By the way, you can also get a small amount of THC from many hemp products — not enough to get you high, but enough to fail a drug test. The CBD industry’s dirty secret Unfortunately, because the CBD industry is largely unregulated, there have been many reports of poor quality products, especially those sold online. Numerous problems were found in CBD tests conducted periodically by the U.S. Federal Drug Administration. In some of the tests, more than half the products had less CBD than advertised and some had THC levels higher than legally permitted. CBD impurities and unreliable dosages are frequent precautions cited on popular medical websites, such as WebMD, Mayo Clinic, and Harvard University. howlermag.com

The lack of quality control in the CBD industry has prompted some to observe that people in locations where pot is legal would be better off getting their CBD from more tightly regulated marijuana stores. So why is CBD quality so unreliable? Certainly, the newness of the emerging CBD industry and lack of regulations are two major factors. This has attracted entrepreneurs who have rushed into the market and many of these may lack the experience, resources or desire to manage a quality process. Moreover, the CBD supply chain is complex and involves many players necessary to select the best seeds, grow and harvest hemp plants, extract and process CBD oil, and produce, package, and distribute consumer products. Seed-to-sale quality and safety standards are available But standards and best practices have been available for many years for managing quality during the production of other food, cosmetics and drug products. International standards like ISO 9001 and Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP) both are directly applicable for CBD quality assurance. But implementing these standards is a time-consuming and expensive process. Fortunately, a handful of CBD suppliers have adopted seed-to-sale quality practices and become certified by independent reviewers. Some of these can be identified on websites such as Remedy Journey, which regularly comments on CBD quality and other issues.

Unfortunately, because the CBD industry is largely unregulated, there have been many reports of poor quality products, especially those sold online.

So what can you do about the safety and quality of your CBD? There are several measures you can use to avoid purchasing questionable CBD products. • First, read the package label or website for the product specifications. Make sure you understand what ingredients are in the product and why it is best for you. Keep in mind that depending on the bioavailability of the product, your body may be able to use as little as 5% of its CBD. A lot of information is available online, so take the time to do some research. • Look up the supplier’s website and review its quality control program. Not finding one is a bad sign! In many cases, the supplier may not be the actual manufacturer, but a reseller. If so, ask for the manufacturer’s identity and check their site. • Learn how to read a Certificate of Analysis (COA). A link to the COAs should be on the packaging or the website. It shows third-party test results for a sample of the supplier’s product. It should include at least five tests. The first test (potency) shows the number and percentage of cannabinoids (CBD, THC, etc.). The next four tests give the presence or absence of residual solvents, pesticides, mycotoxins and heavy metals. These should all be zero or nondetected. While these actions may not guarantee that your CBD is a safe, high-quality product, they will go a long way to help you avoid bad ones. HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 73

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To order click here Our products are made in Costa Rica using raw ingredients, locally made and working with the indigenous Huetar tribe to educate the world in natural medicinal plants grown in nutrient dense soil HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 75 that supports the making of world-class natural medicine and remedies for total body healing.

PURA VIDA / LIVING CR

Sirsasana

Heads-Up to Ensure Headstand is Safe By Mary Byerly

irsasana, the headstand pose, requires caution to ensure it is safe on an individual basis. Like the shoulderstand, it is not advisable for yoga practitioners who have neck, shoulder or back injuries, osteopenia or osteoporosis, high blood pressure or migraines. Any of these conditions can prevent you from doing the headstand safely. It is also imperative that your shoulders have a good range of motion and strength to support your body in good alignment. Before I work with any of my students on the headstand, I assess their mobility and shoulder strength to make sure it is possible. If it is not deemed a good pose for your body, there are alternatives that can still give you some of the same benefits of the full sirsasana pose. Once your ability to safely perform the headstand is known for certain, it is an excellent pose to add to your practice. Sirsasana can help balance your endocrine system, bring fresh blood flow to the head and activate your pituitary and pineal glands. It is a very energizing pose. Sirsasana is usually done after warm-ups, sun salutations and standing poses. Then I like to include a shoulder stretch to create flexibility as follows.

YOGA WISDOM

• Stand with your forearms on a wall, in line with your shoulders. • Clasp your hands together, take a step back and slide your arms down halfway between your shoulders and hips (those with good flexibility can go lower; those without good flexibility stay further up). • Extend from the outer armpit region to the outer elbows, pressing them, your forearms, and hands into the wall. At the same time, lift your inner elbows up into your inner armpits. • Secure your shoulder blades into your back by attempting to “scrub” your elbows both towards and away from each other at the same time. • Keep your abdomen drawn up and into your body, and activate your legs. Hold for five to 10 breaths.

It is a very energizing pose. 76

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Follow this with the strengthening dolphin pose. It uses the same arm position as the previous stretch, and can be done safely by most people because it is not weight-bearing on the spine. • Come onto your knees and forearms on your mat. • Align your elbows under your shoulders, and clasp your hands in front of you. Create the same extension from your outer armpit to your outer elbow, the same lift from inner elbow to inner armpit, and the scrubbing action that you did in the previous stretch at the wall. This should feel as though you are lifting your heart up into your body. • Take an inhale, and on the exhale lift your hips into the air. Keep lifting up through your sitting bones, again “scrubbing” your elbows out and in while reaching your chest towards your thighs. • Hold for five to 10 breaths and come back down. Now it’s headstand time! Make sure that you have the help of a teacher to begin incorporating this invigorating and energizing pose into your practice. You may also want to try the alternative restorative version pictured here. May you reap all the benefits of sirsasana in your practice.

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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 77

YOGA: Sirsasana

irsasana, la parada de cabeza, requiere precaución para asegurar que sea segura en forma individual. Al igual que la parada de hombros, no es aconsejable para los practicantes de yoga que tienen lesiones en el cuello, los hombros o la espalda, osteopenia u osteoporosis, hipertensión arterial o migrañas. Cualquiera de estas condiciones puede impedirle hacer la parada de cabeza de forma segura. También es imperativo que sus hombros tengan un buen rango de movimiento y fuerza para apoyar su cuerpo en una buena alineación. Antes de trabajar con mis estudiantes en la posición de cabeza, evalúo su movilidad y la fuerza de sus hombros para asegurarme de que sea posible. Si no se considera una buena postura para su cuerpo, hay alternativas que pueden darle algunos de los mismos beneficios de la postura de sirsasana completa.

YOGA WISDOM

Una vez que su habilidad para realizar la parada de cabeza con seguridad es conocida con certeza, es una excelente pose para agregar a su práctica. La sirsasana puede ayudar a equilibrar su sistema endocrino, llevar un flujo de sangre fresca a la cabeza y activar sus glándulas pituitaria y pineal. Es una pose muy energizante. Sirsasana se hace generalmente después de los calentamientos, saludos al sol y poses de pie. Luego me gusta incluir un estiramiento de hombro para crear flexibilidad. De esta manera. • Párese con sus antebrazos en una pared, en línea con sus hombros. • Junte las manos, dé un paso atrás y deslice los brazos hacia abajo a mitad de camino entre los hombros y las caderas (los que tienen buena flexibilidad pueden ir más abajo; los que no tienen buena flexibilidad se quedan más arriba). • Extiéndase desde la región exterior de la axila hasta la parte exterior de los codos, presionándolos, los antebrazos y las manos contra la pared. Al mismo tiempo, levante los codos internos hacia las axilas internas. • Asegure sus omóplatos en su espalda intentando “frotar” sus codos hacia y desde el otro lado al mismo tiempo. 78 | #searchfindhowl | online

• Mantenga su abdomen estirado y dentro de su cuerpo, y active sus piernas. Manténgase así por cinco a diez respiraciones. Siga esto con la reforzada postura del delfín. Utilice la misma posición del brazo que el estiramiento anterior, y puede ser hecha con seguridad por la mayoría de la gente porque no sostiene el peso de la columna vertebral. • Póngase de rodillas y brazos en la colchoneta. • Alinee sus codos bajo sus hombros, y agarre sus manos frente a usted. Cree la misma extensión desde la axila externa hasta el codo externo, la misma elevación desde el codo interno hasta la axila interna, y la acción de fregado que hizo en el estiramiento anterior en la pared. Esto debería sentirse como si estuviera levantando su corazón hacia su cuerpo. • Inhale y al exhalar levante las caderas en el aire. Siga levantando a través de sus huesos sentados, de nuevo “frotando” sus codos hacia afuera y hacia adentro mientras alcanza su pecho hacia sus muslos. • Manténgase así por cinco a diez respiraciones y vuelva a bajar. ¡Ahora es hora de la parada de cabeza! Asegúrese de tener la ayuda de un maestro para comenzar a incorporar esta vigorizante y energizante pose en su práctica. También puede probar la versión restauradora alternativa que se muestra aquí. ¡Que coseche todos los beneficios de la sirsasana en su práctica!

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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 79

PURA VIDA / LIVING COSTA RICA

Plastic Love in the Time of COVID-19

By Ben Harris

ow quickly our grasp of the recent past has slipped and the promise of a greener future dimmed. In times that now seem so long ago, the word Corona just conjured up images of a cold beer rather than a deadly virus. The world seemed to be gradually making changes and pledges to halt the production of single-use plastics, in favor of more sustainable options. Countries were banning plastic bags, styrofoam and throwaway utensils. People were beginning to become more conscious, caring consumers. Now as we ride the wave of COVID-19, so many of these promises and resolutions have fallen by the wayside. The importance of barriers to human contact and bleach to protect our health have taken priority over the health of our planet and preserving sources of the air we breathe.

ECO- FEATURE

Of course, measures need to be taken to keep ourselves, our friends and our families safe from testing positive in this pandemic. But we can still make choices that have less environmental impact than others. Hazardous human health safeguards The high tide mark of many beaches shows just how much extra plastic pollution is flooding into our rivers and oceans right now. Single-use masks 80

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and little bottles of Clorox form a parade of ocean poison running like a ribbon along our shores. For those front-line workers who do not have a choice but to grab a fresh mask a dozen times a day, we understand and are, of course, grateful for their vital work. But for those of us who are not essential workers fighting on the front lines, there is no excuse for not using washable/reusable masks in our day-to-day lives. When buying hand sanitizer or disinfectants, it is much better to purchase larger-volume amounts and refill small portable containers than to keep buying small throwaway alternatives. This is also generally a more cost-effective way to stay safe, although not an option for every family, depending on income. howlermag.com

We just have to do what we can, where we can. There is no question that COVID-19 remains the headlining crisis that we as the human race must eradicate. But remember, the problem of us eradicating our planet in the process has not gone away. We must continue to act locally and think globally. During the 2019 United Nations Climate Change Summit, also known as COP25, speakers like the Swedish teen activist Greta Thunberg made powerful and passionate pleas to act now because, “our house is on fire." Leaders clapped, agreements were reaffirmed and discussion took place about getting around to finalizing guidelines agreed to in the 2015 Paris Agreement. Then our leaders left in their private jets feeling positive and proud about the commitments they had made to tackle climate change at some point over the next 30 years. Thunberg, the 16-year-old voice for future generations, warned, “Your distant targets will mean nothing if high emissions continue like today, even for just a few more years, because we will use up our remaining carbon budget before we even have a chance to deliver on your 2030 and 2050 goals.”

Impact falls short Now as COVID-19 engulfs our lives, the world’s airlines and planes are almost at a standstill. People stay at home, their cars in the driveways. Factories and slaughterhouses have closed their doors. All these drastic changes should have had an impact on global emissions. But do you know what? It wasn’t nearly enough. We are still producing more than we said we would … more than we know we should if we want our grandchildren to have a future. That would be a future without being plagued by their question to older generations: why? Why — if we knew what we were doing — did we do nothing to stop it when we had the chance? As apathy spreads, so does the evidence of our inaction. For the most part, the signs that we are in the middle of the sixth mass extinction are not affecting those in a position to make a change. While this makes it easy to ignore for a little while longer, the time is approaching when there will be no more time to act. Then our stagnant attitude to fixable problems will affect us all.

Some plastics take up to 400 years to decompose and only 12% of the plastic ever created has been incinerated.

Starting in February, it will be prohibited to enter national parks with single-use plastics. CLICK HERE HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 81

PURA VIDA / LIVING COSTA RICA For many of our ocean friends that time has passed already. They look to us now to save them from extinction caused both by our actions and inactions. What many people tend to forget is that extinction is permanent. Extinction is forever. We can’t go back and fix this later. We have to act now.

stomachs, which had either blocked their airways or intestines. A plastic bag drifting endlessly below the surface looks as much like a jellyfish to us as it does to the turtle that mistakenly swallows it.

Species such as turtles — those seemingly happy, carefree creatures that humans young and old love to see — may not be here for our grandchildren to know other than in history books. Six out of seven turtle species are on the endangered or critically endangered list. There are many contributing factors: habitat destruction, light pollution, unsustainable fishing practices and poaching and eating of eggs, especially in places like Ostional, Costa Rica, where this remains legal. These are all problems with human causes that we must address and change.

Dolphins and whales too are washing up on beaches around the world, stomachs filled with hundreds of pounds of plastic. And scientists have shown that up to 36% of fish pulled from the ocean are laced with microplastics. That means we are poisoning ourselves as well by consuming these marine animals.

Silent scourge In addition, one of the biggest killers of turtles today is the silent killer, the glad wrap that is suffocating our planet — plastic pollution. One hundred percent of all the turtles examined in a recent study were found to have plastic in their

These are the hard facts. As depressing as they may be to swallow, swallow them we must. Some comforts will have to be forgone if we are to leave a better world for the children of tomorrow. The emphasis is on “we.” Too often, people reacting to negative news will say, “why don’t they do something?” The reality is that we are them! We have to change to make change.

ECO- FEATURE

It is not too late, but time is running out. Future lives are counting on us, most not even born yet. Those lives can be saved if we use this time of lockdowns and uncertainty to breathe and to think.

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Cost of convenience For so long, life has been moving so fast there has been no time to reflect. Out of this perpetual motion, in the race we accepted as everyday life, came single-use everything. Catering to convenience has come at a huge cost to us and our world. From our throwaway society comes things that don’t go away. They stay and they pollute for hundreds of years — perhaps 30 seconds worth of refreshment from a store because we didn’t have time to refill a water bottle. Some plastics take up to 400 years to decompose and only 12% of the plastic ever created has been incinerated. Every year we create 78 million tons of plastic pollution and 32% of that is flowing into our oceans. This is the same as a garbage truck of plastic being poured into the ocean every minute of every day.

Recycling is better than nothing, but is in no way a solution. For the most part, recycling merely masks what is really going on with the devastation plastic packaging has caused. Currently only 14% of the world’s plastic is collected for recycling. Just 2% makes its way back into packaging, while 79% of all plastics end up in landfills or scattered across the environment. So let’s use this time productively. Let’s make some resolutions about how you can make your garden and your planet a better place for everyone. Don’t concern yourselves with your neighbors’ gardens and what they are doing or not doing. Let’s concentrate on our gardens, our worlds and remembering it’s up to us, not them. We and they are synonymous. If we want to emerge from COVID into a better world, then the change begins at home and in all the small choices we make. Let’s become better consumers of this planet, and let’s start today, not tomorrow.

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Huacas

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THE BENEFITS OF STEM CELL THERAPY Stem cells have the ability to grow, repair and regenerate any type of human cell or tissue. Stem cell therapy is a medical procedure that uses stem cells to repair damaged tissue from certain diseases or physical injuries. Stem cell therapy can offer relief to patients suffering from chronic pain, difficult-to-heal injuries, and certain chronic conditions.

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Can you reach your Expat Insurance Agent by Call or Text 7 Days a Week by Whatsapp or Skype? Find us at WhatsApp at 512-295-4976, we would love to chat and learn about you! Just ask around, chances are your friends know of us. Are you working with an Agent who is only offering One or Two Insurance Plans? A reputable Expat Insurance Agent should have years of experience and offer more than one insurance option. There is no such thing “as one size fits all” with international medical insurance. Is your agent offering a global health plan which forces a new member to wait 60-90 days before actually offering medical coverage? This is simply not feasible and rather insulting. Does your agent charge an application or agent fee? Offshore Health Benefits, Ltd has never charged an agent or application fee and the rates listed by the insurance carriers online, are the same rates we pass on to our clients. We are Third Party Advocate working on your behalf.

Does your agent provide a list of Medical Global Insurance companies who perform poorly and should not be sold on the open market? We do, and we are happy to send over a list of such companies which should not be allowed to sell anywhere in the world. Does your Agent have a specific plan if a claim is denied? What is that plan? Call our team, we will explain many options in the appeal process.

"At Offshore Health Benefits, we do things a little different and have thousands of clients throughout Costa Rica, Mexico, Panama, and the Caribbean. Let's talk, it may be time." 90~| Robert, #searchfindhowl | online howlermag.com Licensed Team Member Serving Latin America & Caribbean

What type of experience does your agent have in international medical insurance planning ? And is your Agent Licensed & Bonded for your protection? Offshore Health Benefits, Ltd offers years of experience from the following companies: Aetna International, Aetna US Healthcare, Generali, Medex, Magellan Health, Tilloglobe and more. If an agent is going to consult with individuals & families living and working abroad, he/she should be familiar with both sides of the international health insurance industry. This is achieved through years of experience. Experience is everything.We are licensed and bonded up to $1 million per claim, you may want to ask your agent if he or she is. In summary, Global Health Insurance rates are on the rise at a record speed, in some cases, they are slowly catching up with many domestic plan premiums. You do have options, and we are here to strategize. Not every Expatriate should consider purchasing an international health plan, this is fact. However, so many people who are relying on an expensive US plan may be surprised at the premiums we can save them while increasing overall coverage.

Since 2002, Offshore Health Benefits, Ltd. has assisted thousands of Expatriates Worldwide and have seen just about everything with regards to Medical Claims, Air Ambulance, Local Emergencies, and Overall Global Healthcare. From Working with Expatriates of USAID in Nicaragua, to helping Teachers with Eco-Green Schooling in Bali, to assisting Retirees in Mexico with Top Rated Hospital admissions, we are here to help. Check us out at https://offshorehealthbenefits.com/contact-our-team. We offer Six Major Expatriate Medical Insurance Carriers, from Smaller Budget Plans to the Larger Global Plan options. If we can’t help you, we will point you in the right direction at no charge. At Offshore Health Benefits, we do things a little different. Let's talk, it may be time.

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How to Open a Costa Rican Bank Account By Ivan Granados

hether you are relocating to Costa Rica permanently or staying for an extended vacation under a tourist visa, one of the first things you will want to do is open a Costa Rica bank account. While it is possible to navigate paying bills and withdrawing cash electronically, it can be very inconvenient if you will be in the country for more than a couple of weeks. Like all countries, Costa Rica has laws in place to regulate banking. This article will explain what those regulations are and provide examples of what two of the major banks require to open bank accounts.**

Banco de Costa Rica

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Temporary and/or permanent resident The requirement for an original and valid identification document, in good condition, applies to both the account owner and any authorized third party. BCR considers the following valid documentation: • DIMEX (valid resident identification).

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Additionally, 1. The General Migration and Foreigner Direction authorization may be provided as part of the fund’s origin verification. This is an optional requirement. The most important requirement is for residents to provide valid identification and demonstrate their income as detailed in the point #2 below. 2. The opening fund’s source or origin description must justify the transactions to be made. Examples include salaries, fees, business operation, inheritance and rent, among others. This information must be backed up by proof of salary and/or orden patronal (only for salaried individuals) or an Authorized Public Accountant income certification (non-salaried individuals). howlermag.com

A Guide for Foreigners

Non-resident foreigner (tourist) The requirement for an original and valid identification document, in good condition, applies to both the account owner and any authorized third party. BCR considers the following valid documentation: • Valid refugee ID • Valid passport with permanence authorization (this is the stamp the Migration and Foreign General Direction stamps on the passport and includes the permanence dates allowed in the country) Additionally, 1. Some type of connection to the country must be proven in order to open the account, such as property ownership or Costa Rican family members. There is no requirement for the property to have a minimum value. 2. If the foreigner’s income is more than two base salaries as established by Costa Rica’s financial regulatory agency, SUGEF (approximately US $1,800), a document stating the origin of said income must be provided. The income can come from abroad, as long as there is valid proof of the real and legal source of the income.

For both residents and non-resident foreigners, when the funds come from outside of Costa Rica, equivalent documents are requested which must be apostilled. However, the following documents are not required to be apostilled: bank references, bank statements, and tax declarations from the country of origin. The necessary documents must have the following information: • Patron’s name or nature of the business if self-employed • Amount of income received • Profession and occupation If the applicant receives an income lower than two base salaries, or equivalent to one base salary in the case of remittance (according to Law 7337) in colones or its equivalent in any other currency, they are not obligated to present the previously mentioned documents. When the “transactional patron” (average amount traded on a customer account) is modified or the monthly amount is raised over the established limit, the documents are required to back up the new transactional patron. There is no maximum amount that non-resident tourists can deposit in a BCR account in their name as long as the source and destination can be evidenced. It is important to point out that each bank branch office might require additional documents, according to each case, to give the client a higher degree of security.

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CR BIZ Additional requirements for an ordinary account 1. The initial deposit amount is established by the bank according to the account’s currency: ¢50.000 colones, US $500 dollars or €100 euros. You may open a bank account in either local currency, USD or euros. 2. Minimum monthly salary income of US $1,000, or its equivalent in colones, may be required. The minimum salary income requirement might not apply if the applicant is a known client and justified as such by the bank’s office manager. Banco Nacional de Costa Rica Temporary and/or permanent foreign resident The requirement for an original and valid identification document, in good condition, applies to both the account owner and any authorized third party. BNCR considers the following valid documentation: • DIMEX (valid resident identification) or DIDI (for diplomats) Note: In addition to the valid identification document, as indicated below, if the monthly income is greater than two base salaries, the source of the income must be demonstrated.

Consequently, non-residents can have an account opened for the current term of their residence permit. When that term expires, they will have a maximum period of one year to present their renewal; otherwise, the account will be closed.

Non-resident foreigners (tourists) or individual in special situations

Insider tip for banking generally

The requirement for an original and valid identification document, in good condition, applies to both the account owner and any authorized third party. BNCR considers the following valid documentation: • Valid refugee ID • Valid passport with permanence authorization (this is the stamp the Migration and Foreign General Direction stamps on the passport and includes the permanence dates allowed in the country) Additionally,

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2. Minimum amounts must be paid during the opening of the account. 3. The requirement for a commercial or banking reference applies only to foreigners who identify themselves with their passport. This reference must be generated by a BNCR customer or by a financial entity they are working with. 4. Clients must indicate their home address through a sworn declaration with the account solicitude form. In case the address is not precise (many residences do not have an official street address), the National Bank collaborator may ask for a domicile verifier such as a public or private services receipt indicating their residence.

1. Income verification is needed if the foreigner’s income is more than two base salaries as established by SUGEF (approximately US $1,800). Examples of a document stating the origin of said income include orden patronal, proof of salary (for salaried individuals) and income certification, among others. 98

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You are not able to deposit money through an ATM in Costa Rica. That is one reason why many transactions must be conducted in person at the bank. Give yourself plenty of time when making a visit. Banks have a “pulla-number” system to handle the volume of customers. A visit can sometimes take more than an hour depending on the crowds. Navigating Costa Rican banking can be a challenging situation, especially if Spanish is not your native language. We are at your service to assist with understanding the regulations and legal document requirements. Contact us at info@gmattorneyscr.com. ** Information for this article was obtained from the website of each bank and/or provided by a bank clerk. The information is subject to routine changes in content without prior notice for the extension, improvement, correction or updating of requirements. It does not represent an obligation on the part of the bank. GM Attorneys assumes no liability for the information.

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Aperturas de cuentas bancarias requisitos para extranjeros (Residentes y no residentes) En principio, cuando los fondos provengan del extranjero se solicitan los documentos equivalentes los cuales deben de ser consularizados o apostillados. Sin embargo no será necesario su apostillado: las referencias bancarias, estados de cuentas, y declaración de impuestos del país de origen. Los documentos deben contener los siguientes datos: • Nombre del patrono o naturaleza de sus negocios si trabaja en lo propio • Monto de ingresos que percibe • Profesión y ocupación

Banco de Costa Rica Original del documento de identificación en buen estado y vigente tanto para el dueño de la cuenta como los autorizados. El BCR considera documentos de identificación para personas extranjeras los siguientes: • DIMEX (cédula de residencia vigente) • Carné de refugiado vigente • Pasaporte vigente Residente temporal y/o permanente: Debe aportar la autorización de Dirección General de Migración y Extranjería como parte de la verificación de procedencia de los fondos. Descripción de la fuente u origen de los fondos que justifican las transacciones a realizar, por ejemplo: salario, honorarios, operación del negocio, herencia, rentas, entre otros; esta información debe estar respaldada mediante constancias de salario y/o órdenes patronales (únicamente asalariados), certificaciones de ingresos de Contador Público Autorizado (no asalariados). Extranjero no residente (turista): Con pasaporte y sello de entrada al país vigente, se le pide que demuestre algún tipo de arraigo al país para poder abrir cuenta, por ejemplo, una propiedad en el país o familia costarricense. Si los ingresos del extranjero son superiores a dos salarios base estipulados por SUGEF que vienen siendo alrededor de US$1800 dólares, debe presentar algún documento que demuestre el origen de los ingresos.

Se exime de presentar los documentos descritos en el punto anterior, si el solicitante percibe ingresos o realiza transacciones mensuales inferiores a dos salarios base; o de un salario base en el caso de las remesadoras (según lo establecido la Ley 7337), en colones o su equivalente en otra moneda. Cuando se modifique el patrón transaccional o aumente el monto mensual por encima del límite establecido, debe aportar la documentación que respalde el nuevo patrón transaccional. Es importante señalar que cada oficina o sucursal del BCR, podría solicitar documentos o requisitos extras, según sea el caso, con el fin de dar mayor seguridad a la solicitud de apertura. https://www.bancobcr.com/wps/portal/bcr/ bancobcr/personas/cuentas/requisitos_generales_ cuentas Requisitos adicionales para una cuenta corriente 1. Depósito inicial establecido por el banco según el tipo de moneda de la cuenta (¢50.000 colones, US$500 dólares o €100 euros). 2. Ingreso salarial mínimo de US$1,000.00, mensuales o su equivalente en colones. Los requisitos correspondientes al monto mínimo de ingresos salariales podrían no aplicar en caso de que el solicitante sea un cliente conocido por el Banco y justificado así por el gerente de oficina.

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Banco Nacional de Costa Rica Original del documento de identificación en buen estado y vigente, según sea los siguientes casos. Extranjero residente temporal y/o permanente: DIMEX o DIDI (para el caso de diplomáticos) Extranjeros no residentes (turista) o personas en condiciones especiales: pasaporte con vigencia y autorización de permanencia al país (este es el sello que la Dirección General de Migración y Extranjería le estampa en el pasaporte y que tiene la fecha de permiso de permanencia al país). Verificación de ingresos Documento que indique el origen de los ingresos para cuentas con movimientos mensuales superiores a los US$1000 (mil dólares). Algunos ejemplos son: Orden patronal, constancia de salario, certificación de ingresos, entre otros. Condiciones de los documentos a presentar

Options for Real Estate Subdivision in Costa Rica

La información se obtuvo del sitio web de cada banco y / o fue proporcionada por un empleado bancario. La información está sujeta a cambios periódicos en su contenido sin previo aviso, para la extensión, mejora, corrección o actualización de los requisitos y no representa una obligación por parte del Banco. GM Attorneys no asume ninguna responsabilidad por la información o su actualización por parte de los Bancos.

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• Se deberán de cancelar los montos mínimos establecidos al momento de la apertura. • El documento de identidad debe estar vigente. • La referencia comercial o bancaria, aplica únicamente para Extranjero que se identifiquen con el pasaporte. Esta

referencia, debe ser generada por un cliente del BNCR o bien por un ente financiero que esté brindándole servicios. El cliente indicará la dirección de su residencia mediante declaración jurada a través del formulario de solicitud de la cuenta. En caso de que la dirección sea imprecisa o incongruente, el colaborador del Banco Nacional podrá solicitarle: un verificador del domicilio, por ejemplo un recibo de servicios públicos o privados que indique su residencia, realizar una visita, entre otros. • En consecuencia a un no residente se le puede abrir una cuenta por el plazo vigente del permiso de permanencia y al vencimiento del mismo (permiso) tendrá un plazo máximo de 1 año para presentar su renovación, caso contrario la cuenta se cierra. https://www.bncr.fi.cr/RequisitosServicio/ Servicios%20Masivos/1.%20Requisitos%20 solicitantes%20F%C3%ADsicos%20BN-13.pdf

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Healthy Lifestyle Tips for Entrepreneurs

By Joanna Blanco

am glad everyone is alive and kicking. In this article, I will be your personal integrative nutrition coach with tips for entrepreneurs interested in developing a sustainable healthy lifestyle. Keep in mind that if any of your questions or concerns are not addressed here, please contact me directly as soon as possible. Your body and mind wellness must be a priority.

ENTREPRENEUR COSTA RICA

Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s go straight to the point. I will give you some healthy lifestyle tips that can help you thrive.

At work I advise all business owners to create a work environment conducive to positive energy. Even if you work alone, having a clean, organized and peaceful place is essential to make the right energy flow around you. Make sure you are sitting correctly and using a comfortable chair to provide good back support. I encourage you to read this informative article in Howlerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s July 2020 e-magazine about preventing and treating lower back pain. Set a priority list once a week. Make a list of all the duties that must be complete every day. Having an organized plan will save you time and help you know where your focus and energy will be. At home These tips apply to all entrepreneurs working at home, whether you are the only one living there or sharing your space with kids and/or other adults.

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Either way, your home workplace is part of your personal space. Maintaining order and cleanliness throughout helps provide a calm environment and enables you to relax. Additional time management responsibilities are a tradeoff for the convenience and cost savings of running a home business. Make sure you have time for cleaning, organizing, preparing meals, grocery shopping and other household tasks. Schedule your routine chores by allocating one per day, such as Monday for grocery shopping, Tuesday for kids’ laundry, Wednesday for deep kitchen cleaning, etc. Or you can select one day to do all. You Your body is your sanctuary. Make sure to take care of yourself very well. Try to balance the following to maintain good integrative health. Sleep well Your body needs to rest and restore. Try to sleep for eight hours. If your sleep is interrupted by waking in the middle of the night, consider possible reasons and solutions. • To avoid the need for multiple trips to the bathroom, try curbing your intake of liquids before bedtime. • If you are waking up worried about the future, prepare your next day’s plan or schedule before going to bed … even each afternoon before ending the workday.

• If you have trouble falling back to sleep quickly, meditate, breathe calmly or pray. Hydrate Your whole body needs liquids, mostly water. If you are not well hydrated, you can lose energy and focus. You can become easily irritated. You can have muscle cramps and other physical symptoms. If you think that you are not consuming enough water, try these adjustments to your liquid consumption. • Change coffee with green tea. • Change artificial juices with green juices. • Drink warm water when you wake up every morning. • Drink a glass of water before every meal. Eat well It is difficult to give you an exact formula to help you balance your plates. Instead I can offer general concepts, so depending on your needs, you can manage and improve your food intake. • Eat more fruits and vegetables. Try to add as many vegetables as you can in your meals. Enjoy fruits for snacks and desserts. • Lower your white flour and sugar consumption. Try to skip the tempting bread served in restaurants, or find alternatives to sandwiches for dinner. Prepare more salads or grill vegetables to exchange for the bread or pasta. It is not that you should never have bread or pasta, but

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Create a work environment conducive to positive energy. • rather have them less often each week. • Consume chocolate with a higher % of cocoa and less sugar. Cocoa is an excellent source of micronutrients. • Incorporate “good” fats in your diet. Nuts, avocado, chia, flaxseed and salmon are examples of recommended edible fatty acid sources. Move your body

Remember, there is no single perfect formula for a healthy lifestyle. Test new habits and make adjustments one step at a time. Feel free to contact me: joannablanco@ vivesattva.com Visit my website vivesattva.com or follow me on Instagram: @Movimientosattva Live well, live happily!

ENTREPRENEUR COSTA RICA

Physical activity is essential to ensure your body is healthy. From yoga to running and swimming to paddle boarding, the range of preferences are endless. Your vital objective is to make your muscles work and lubricate your joints. Focus on having a healthy body from the inside out. Enjoy!

Life is a one-time proposition. We need to be grateful for every new day we live. Relax, laugh and enjoy time with your family and friends.

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Do Foreigners Require a Costa Rica Will? By Rick Philps

s a Costa Rica lawyer I am often asked by expat clients whether they require a Costa Rica will to provide for the disposition of their assets in this country when they die. The strictly legal answer is no, they do not, as long as they have a legally enforceable will in their country of origin that covers the disposition of their world assets. Following the probate of that will in their country of origin, it would have to be authenticated and translated into Spanish for use in Costa Rica. Then it must be submitted under a legal process to the Costa Rica court for the necessary approval to be relied upon in this country. This, of course, is both a lengthy and costly process. Should the will, for any reason, not be approved by the Costa Rica court, the testator would be deemed to have died intestate (without a will). This would result in a complicated disposition of the deceased’s Costa Rican assets pursuant to the Costa Rica probate laws, most likely in a manner never contemplated by the testator. A more practical way to proceed is for a foreigner to have a Costa Rican will drawn and executed. The will is drawn by Costa Rica Notary Public in the Spanish language. It may provide for the disposition of the testator’s world assets, or alternatively, be restricted to the disposition of Costa Rican assets only. In fact, under Costa Rica’s civil law system, the will may contain a clause making it subordinate to a principal will existing in the testator’s country of origin, restricting its application to the disposition of the Costa Rican assets only. A copy of the Costa Rica will is filed with the National Archives following its execution. 106

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The Costa Rican will may be entered into the probate process here immediately following the testator’s death, without any authentication or translation process being required. This considerably lessens the time frame and the legal costs of concluding the disposition of the testator’s assets following death.

The Costa Rican will may be entered into the probate process here immediately, without any authentication or translation process being required.

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WELCOME BACK TO PRINT inclusive with articles written by locals about locals in the Jacรณ region with all the benefits of our enhanced online platform: + extended reach across Costa Rica, North America and the rest of the world + promotion across social media channels to reach YOUR target audience + published in PRINT and Howler's interactive value-added E-MAGAZINE separate keyword-searchable articles published and archived online at howlermag.com

Howler never stopped being the loudest voice in the Costa Rican jungle OR information media marketplace!

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CLIC K HER E

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Jalil El Harra

Capturing The Dance Behind The Lens of Jac

alil El Harrar is a German photographer now living on the Central Pacific coast of Costa Rica. He is a master of capturing art in nature, transpiring over years of disciplined observation and commitment to his craft.

PHOTOGRAPHER SPOTLIGHT ARTIST SPOTLIGHT

Since his arrival in Costa Rica five years ago, Jalil has been fascinated with bird photography, in particular colibri (hummingbirds). He is also drawn to the beauty of the rarer bird, resplendent quetzal, found in the higher regions of Costa Rica.

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Subsequently, as a resident close to the beach, El Harrar began dabbling in surf photography both in Playa Jacรณ and Hermosa Beach. The fluidity of surfers within the waves inspires him for their resemblance to the dance of the hummingbirds.

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có Photographer By Kate Hanley Photos: Jalil El Harrar If you surf in Jacó, you may have spotted the unpretentious and quiet man under a palm tree, sitting on a chair with his eyes on the waves, camera in hand. In addition to surf and nature photography, Jalil is also a real estate photographer and available for contracted work.

Here are some excerpts from a recent interview with the gifted photographer. How long have you been doing photography and what inspired you initially? It all started during my former profession; I was the manager of a very popular nightclub. Whenever I had the chance I would borrow the photographer’s camera and take pictures myself of the people at

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Marjorie painting a mural commissioned by a Jacó restaurant

the club. That’s when I realized how much I liked photography. When I arrived in Costa Rica I was charmed by something completely different. I became fascinated with birds.

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What are your favorite birds to shoot here in Costa Rica? Do you have one or two preferred places to take photos? My favorites birds are clearly the hummingbirds, the way they dance in the air is simply something from a movie. Next would be the quetzal. I always like to go to a place called El Cerro de la Muerte in San Gerardo de Dota (a mountain village popular for high-altitude birds like the quetzal). Laguna del Lagarto Lodge and Quetzal Lodge Paradise, among others, are two of my favorite places to shoot.

How many different places in Costa Rica have you been? Are there any places that you would like to visit in the future? I’d like to know more of the southern part of the country and also would like to explore the Caribbean. I know the areas in Costa Rica where you find birds. A photographer has curiosity for nature and obviously wants to know every corner. When did you begin to shoot surf photography and why do you like it so much? I began to take surf photos four years ago. A surfer has to become one with the water in order to move easily. For me it’s like a dance in the ocean. It reminds me of the hummingbirds.

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Do you still offer photography workshops and where can people find that information? Due to the pandemic, I have cancelled all workshops for this year. I will continue in 2021, with my next workshops planned for February, March and August. You can see all the details on my website page. Follow Jalil El Harrar on Facebook and Instagram @jalilelharrarphotography. Check out his website jalilelharrar.com for information about workshops, a gallery of photos and more. Contact Jalil directly through WhatsApp at 8671-6354.

‘A surfer has to become one with the water in order to move easily. For me it’s like a dance in the ocean. It reminds me of the hummingbirds.’

Click on "Howl" to discover which photograph is a puzzle for you to solve!

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ARTIST SPOTLIGHT

See more photographs by Jalil El Harrar by clicking on any page.

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Photo Captions: 1. Red-eyed tree frog, whose scientific name, Agalychnis callidryas, translates from Greek to “beautiful wood nymph,” inhabits neotropical rainforests from Mexico to Colombia. Photographed at Laguna de Lagarto Lodge in northern Costa Rica. 2. Pallas's long-tongued bat, a nectar-feeding species with a fast metabolism, native to South and Central America. Photographed at Laguna de Lagarto Lodge in northern Costa Rica. 3. Melody Stevens surfing Bowie’s Point, Playa Hermosa. 4. José Joaquín Lopez (JJ Lopez) surfing Bowie’s Point, Playa Hermosa. 5. Green-crowned brilliant hummingbird (Heliodoxa jacula), also known as green-crowned brilliant hummingbird, a large, robust highlandsdwelling species from Costa Rica to Ecuador. Photographed at Paraiso de Quetzal Lodge at San Gerardo de Dota, Costa Rica. 6. Fiery-throated hummingbird (Panterpe insignis) is the only member of the genus Panterpe. A medium-sized species common in the Talamanca Mountain Range forest canopies of Costa Rica and western Panama at altitudes above 1,400 meters, and also in the scrubs at woodland edges and clearings. 7. Jefferson Tascon Prado catching sunset waves at Roca Loca, Playa Hermosa. 8. Green-breasted mango (Anthracothorax prevostii) a hummingbird found in tropical America whose scientific name honors the French naturalist Florent Prévos. Photographed at the photographer’s home garden in Jacó. 9. Tricolored heron (Egretta tricolor), formerly known as Louisiana heron, a small species native to coastal regions of the Americas. Photographed in Jacó. 10. Another beautiful hummingbird caught in flight. See more photographs by Jalil El Harrar by clicking on any page.

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Jalil El Harrar

Capturando El Baile Tras El Lens De Fotógrafo Jacobeño De donde es y cuanto tiempo de vivir en Costa Rica? Soy de Alemania y vivo aqui desde hace cinco anos. Más que todo le encanta sacar fotos de _____________? Kolibris, Quetzal y surf. Cuanto tiempo tiene de ser fotógrafo y que le inspiró hacer esta forma del arte? Todo empezó durante mi profesión de antes, era gerente de una discoteca de gran afluencia. Cuando tenía tiempo le quite la camera al fotógrafo y tome yo mismo fotos de los actores. Me di entonces cuenta que la fotografía me gustaba mucho. Cuando llegue a Costa Rica mi encanto era diferente y sobre todo mi fascinación fue para las aves. ¿Cuáles son sus sujetos favoritos aquí en Costa Rica? ¿Tiene uno o unos lugares preferidos para sacar fotos o prefiere no decir?

ARTIST SPOTLIGHT

Mis favoritos de las aves son claramente los colibrís siguiendo del Quetzal. Como bailan en el aire es simplemente de película. Siempre me gusta moverme donde “el cerro de la muerte” en San Gerardo de Dota y donde nosotros vivimos en la costa del pacifico para tomar fotos. Unos lugares preferidos son Laguna del Lagarto Lodge y Paraíso de Quetzal Lodge entre otros.

¿Cuantos diferentes lugares conoce de Costa Rica? Hay unas partes que no conoce que le gustaría conocer? Por que? Me gustaría conocer más el Sur del país y también quiero explorar el Caribe. El resto de Costa Rica me es familiar, es decir conozco los lugares donde se encuentran los pájaros. Un fotógrafo tiene curiosidad por naturaleza y claro que quiero conocer cada rincón. Cuando empezó a sacar fotos de surf y por que le gusta tanto? Hace unos cuatro años empecé a tomar fotos de surf. Un surfeador tiene que unirse con el agua para moverse fácilmente. Para mí es como un baile en el agua y me recuerda a los bailes de los colibrís. ¿Ofrece talleres todavía? Cuando sera el proximo o va a esperar un rato para ver lo que pasa con eso de pandemia? Por la pandemia cancele todos los talleres. En el 2021 voy a seguir; en febrero, marzo y agosto tendré los próximos talleres. Pueden ver los detalles en mi página.

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Tarcoles River Trip Always A Different Adventure Story and photos by Lori Anne Haskell

Pacific screech owl relaxing in a palm tree

he Tarcoles River begins on the southern slopes of Costa Rica’s Cordillera Central volcanic range and flows southwest to the Gulf of Nicoya. It flows 69 miles through an area famous for the large population of American crocodiles, ending at the Pacific Ocean near Carara National Park and the town of Tarcoles. Since 2007, José Eduardo has been conducting guided boat trips down the river where passengers are consistently rewarded with diverse wildlife sightings. According to the owner of José's Crocodile River Tours, there are approximately 20 crocodiles per mile on the river. But many of the international bird enthusiasts on board his trips might argue that the river’s greatest claim to fame should be the amazing number and variety of birds. Love at first sight In 2006, I visited Costa Rica for the first time. While there, I visited the Tarcoles River and took a boat tour to see the crocodiles and other wildlife. At that time, I fell in love with the mangroves and birds in the area. Nowadays, I immediately feel at peace anytime I am out on the Tarcoles River with my camera. It is one of my favorite places to spend time.

COOL PLACES

Perhaps because there is truth to the phrase "the early bird gets the worm," Tarcoles River birding tours generally start around 6:00 a.m. Some of the birds seen early on are falcons, hawks, jacana, spoonbill, heron, ibis, stilt birds and scarlet macaws. 122

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Little blue heron eating an afternoon snack howlermag.com

Later in the tour, passengers visit the mangroves, where the prehistoric boat-billed heron, elusive mangrove hummingbird, yellow warbler and mangrove vireo can be seen in the area. Near the downstream end of the tour route, passengers are taken to where the Tarcoles River meets the Pacific Ocean. Brown pelicans, magnificent frigatebirds, osprey and many terns can be seen here.

While a wide variety of bird sightings is the main goal of a birdwatching tour, mammals can often be seen along the Tarcoles River too, including coati, raccoons, howler monkeys and capuchin monkeys. Some lucky passengers might even spot a mangrove boa!

Some lucky passengers might even spot a mangrove boa!

Juvenile yellow-crowned night heron yelling to a friend

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Never the same Each time I visit the Tarcoles River, I see something different than the last time. The river wildlife encountered is never the same and always presents some kind of surprise. For example, on my last boat adventure with Randall Ortega Chaves of Mangrove Birding Journeys, I was excited to watch and photograph a three-week old

baby tiger heron in its nest. Before that, I had never seen a tiger heron in its nest. The baby sat completely still in the mangroves. Randall said the baby tiger heron sits completely still to appear like a stick to avoid predators. This made me nervous, because not far away, a common black hawk was sitting and looking like he was on the hunt.

Another time at the Tarcoles River, I watched the beautiful stilt birds playing along the shore. A person on my boat yelled, "did that crocodile just eat a bird?" I quickly turned and saw one of the sweet stilt bird's being eaten by the crocodile. The stilt birds companions all screamed and chased the crocodile, which was sad to witness. It had always made me nervous how close the birds stand to the crocodiles, but I just assumed they could easily fly away. Not that time ... Fascinating kingfishers It is common to see many kingfishers while on the Tarcoles River. On my last tour, I was able to observe four different kingfisher species: green, American pygmy, Amazon and ringed. During such a tour, I have also seen for the first time four green kingfishers together. Two were

The author in her favorite place in the world

COOL PLACES

Mangrove black hawk drying off after the rain

Black-crowned night heron, rare to see on the Tacoles River 124

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juveniles and two were adults. The four kingfishers were squabbling and hanging out on a branch near the shore. It was interesting to watch as the parents were ignoring the juveniles who were much more active than the adults. Watching kingfishers hunt is a joy too. They are very fast and almost always come out of the water with a nice fish. During another Tarcoles River trip, I saw a male kingfisher catch a large fish. He refused to share with his girlfriend. I said, "that was not very nice, she is probably hungry too!" Within 10 seconds, the female dove down, caught an even bigger fish than the male and refused to share her fish with him. Justice! When the Tarcoles River boat tour ends, passengers can wander the roads near the town of Tarcoles in search of even more birds. Many owls live near the town of Tarcoles. Owls are often popular with bird enthusiasts. The black-and-white owl and Pacific screech owl are frequently seen near Tarcoles. Earlier this year, I was delighted to see a spectacled owl for the first time, in a forest near Tarcoles. At that time, I saw both adult and juvenile spectacled owls living and nesting in teak trees. One of the juveniles was amazing. He was all white and posed for us on the side of a palm tree.

Juvenile spectacled owl playing hide and seek on a palm tree

Three-week-old bare-throated tiger heron in its mangrove nest

Everyone should visit the Tarcoles area. The boat tours are excellent and offer a different adventure every time. I promise you won't regret it.

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REGIONAL - JACÓ

Monstera Deliciosa A Classic Favorite House Plant

By Lyndsay Bilodeau

onsteras have always been very popular among plant collectors. We just have to take a look at any trending Instagram feed to find loads of posts featuring these beautiful plants. This rise in popularity has also given way to the hashtag #monsteramonday, where people kick off the week by showing off their monsteras through social media platforms. For plant lovers, there’s no better way to start your Monday! While there are several other beautiful species of monsteras out there, the monstera deliciosa remains a classic favorite house plant for any gardener and plant lover.

LIFESTYLE FEATURE

Monstera deliciosa is also commonly known as the “swiss cheese plant,” describing the holey fenestration on the leaves. These holes actually have a cleaving function for the plant, allowing light to penetrate in between. This enables the leaves to spread out over a large area by using less energy. The fenestration is also one of the most attractive details of this plant, creating a lovely lace-like appearance on the foliage. Larger, more mature leaves produce more fenestration and splitting than younger leaves, which can sometimes have none.

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Edible when ripe The monstera deliciosa produces edible flowers known as inflorescence. It is sometimes referred to as the â&#x20AC;&#x153;fruit salad plant,â&#x20AC;? producing a delicious and edible fruit when ripe. Some describe the taste as a combination of banana, mango, strawberry, passion fruit and pineapple! Fruits on the monstera deliciosa take approximately 10 months to ripen. You can tell that the fruit is ripe when the scale on the outside loosens and the inside becomes white or yellow. Some words of caution, though: eating an unripened monstera deliciosa fruit can cause unpleasant burns to the throat due to the calcium oxalate that it produces, which is mildly toxic. Just be sure the fruit is ripe before you bite in! Other parts of the plant, such as the leaves, should not be eaten as they contain higher levels of calcium oxalate that can cause stomach upset in humans and in pets. If you have ever taken a road trip around Costa Rica, most likely you have driven past several large specimens of monstera deliciosa on the side of the highway. This plant is widely spread throughout the country and is native from Mexico all the way down to Panama and Colombia. The monstera deliciosa is an adaptable plant and has been introduced to many tropical areas around the world. In certain regions such as Hawaii, Seychelles and Ascension Island, it has become a mildly invasive species. The monstera deliciosa is a climbing plant that is part of the Aracea family. In the wild, it climbs upward along trees, reaching heights of up to 20 meters tall and producing large, glossy heart-shaped leaves that can measure up to 90 centimeters long by 75 centimeters wide. When cultivated indoors, the plant can reach heights of up to five meters tall, with leaves growing to 45 centimeters wide. Indoors, it is often staked to a moss pole to mimic the structure of a tree and help the plant grow upwards.

These holes actually have a cleaving function for the plant, allowing light to penetrate in between. HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 127

REGIONAL - JACÓ Plant care tips We recommend the following plant care tips to keep your monster deliciosa looking happy and healthy. • Light Monstera deliciosa thrives in a bright filtered light. Although it can survive in medium light conditions, that will slow down its growth. Direct sunlight should be avoided as it can scorch the leaves. • Water Monstera deliciosa should be watered sparingly, allowing for the soil to dry out in between waterings. Make sure to use a light, well-draining soil mixture for your indoor monstera.

• Fertilizer Monsteras don’t need much fertilizer. We recommend using a balanced fertilizer every six months containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. We hope you enjoyed learning about this gorgeous iconic plant! Please feel free to email us with any questions regarding plant care at plantrevolutioncostarica@gmail. com Happy growing! Click to watch how to eat the fruit!

LIFESTYLE FEATURE

• Humidity Monsteras are tropical plants that love high humidity and warm weather. They prefer temperatures between 16 and 24 degrees celsius, with humidity levels of 70% or higher.

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s a Aten re u t a e F

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ATENAS FEATURE

Blog … If You Dare By Mary Martin Mason

ecently, I logged onto an expat blog where a woman innocently inquired about a future trip to Costa Rica she was planning. It was obvious she was unaware that folks from the United States are prohibited from entering Costa Rica because of the pandemic. The responses to her were so vitriolic that a member felt the need to apologize for those “in this group” who were characterized as unhappy transplants considering themselves superior to everyone back home. The advisor suggested posing the question to a friendlier crowd. For those of us who live abroad, local expat blogs can be either a life jacket or a cement anchor. Lurkers, like crocodiles at the Tarcoles River, pounce on a naïve query such as, “My husband and I plan to relocate to Costa Rica. We would like to build a house on the beach in a SAFE neighborhood near an active retirement community. Absolutely need a swimming pool and granite countertops. We are bringing our two French bulldogs so is there a quarantine period? How do we ship our car and belongings? What about health care there? Are there snakes?” The responses range from benevolent advice: “Don’t build or even move until you have tried out at least three communities. Check out the rules for bringing pets”… to incredulous explosions: “Stay where you are, you putz. Anyone contemplating moving with as little information as you have deserves what you will get. I’d answer more completely but I have minutes left to live after being bitten by a fer-de-lance, the most poisonous snake on earth. Pura vida.”

Lockdown lifeline In these days of quarantine, online groups serve as a lifeline. We all know we are mandated to wear a mask or plastic shield in public. With the ever-changing regulations posted in Spanish, blogs help us track other less obvious alerts. How can we unjumble the latest mandate on driving determined by the last number of our license plate? Can we get a haircut, eat in a restaurant or go to the gym? How many are infected, recovered or sadly have died in this, our newly adopted country? Blogs keep us informed. We learn that more than half of those infected in this country work in construction, or as maids, gardeners, handymen, guards and vendors. Younger than the expected demographic, they are usually between 20 and 49 years of age, and their mobility puts us all at risk. Online journals for expats provide a meeting place, much like the central parks in towns. HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 131

ATENAS FEATURE While these green oases are now off limits, before COVID-19 one could sit for hours on a bench and observe without participating, choosing whether to greet or ignore one another. As with the blogs, a few, like the old men in the parks, taunt, tease and call out to the pretty girls. Others are bullies who delight in provoking. These were the gang who did swirlies in high school bathrooms and now lie in wait like silverback gorillas to beat their chest and call attention to themselves. They have a polarizing effect that isn’t all bad since it unites and clarifies the thought process for the offended and for those who defend them. Island ignorance

SURVING CR

Particularly vulnerable is any hapless soul who confuses Costa Rica with Puerto Rico. A recent question was posed about the best and cheapest way to get a Playstation game into “the island.” First, he was credited with stirring up chaos due to being bored in quarantine, an ironic response considering those that ensued. One person posted

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a map of Central America, while another offered a bridge for sale. One clever answer was that he might want to try a test mailing of the Rand McNally World Atlas first. And when someone said Costa Rica is an isthmus, another responded, “Gesundheit.” Look online for advice on everything from finding a watch repairman to addressing the army ants that periodically march through one’s property, devouring everything in their path. Answers to the latter vary from, “I like to pretend they’re having a funeral. Take off your hat and play some music for them,” to, “Go out for breakfast. They are natural fumigators. Takes them about two hours. Nothing you can do. They kill every creepy crawler that is in their way. Happens a lot when the weather is changing. They are on the move and your house is in their path.” Invariably, some wit will add, “If we don’t hear from you by noon, nice knowing you.”

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Blogs can be informational, educational or arty, devoted to a cause, or lean towards the profane and highly uncensored. Some photography blogs reveal the stunning beauty of Costa Rica. Others are guides on travel and transportation or cooking Tico style. Young families are united around raising a child in a foreign land, and retirees share their tips on healthcare. There is a forum for every taste, and many, including myself, have waded into one innocently only to be eaten alive by lurking sharks. Shortly after my arrival six years ago, I had heard about a Christmas concert and asked which church was hosting it. I was told in not the cleverest of retorts to look for a Buddhist temple. I had entered a microcosm of a diverse, rich community comprised of both Tico and gringo, where political colors fly (even when prohibited), respect or occasional disrespect for our host country is touted, and a great divide as well as common denominators are revealed. Creature discomforts A topic that surfaces frequently concerns insects and snakes, reviving the debate on euthanasia versus preserving the species. For every blogger who saves and relocates a tarantula, there are many others who prefer to hit and run. Chemical warfare is proposed as well as natural remedies. Not long ago, my cats were playing with what I thought to be a ribbon. Alas, it turned out to be a snake. As someone raised in Texas, I don’t ascribe to identifying before disposing, particularly when the serpent is in your bedroom. Before sweeping it out the back door, I took a blurry picture and sent it to a private Messenger group. Most of the gang had retired due to the late hour. Finally, in response to my frantic, “People, where are you!” a friend asked if the snake had eyes. Turns out most blind snakes are harmless. Another person had an app on her phone that identified the snake as a common garden variety. At least, that is the interpretation that I decided to accept based on my bad photograph. This way, I can sleep at night.

Aside from devilish pranks, occasional feuds and venomous rants, blogs reveal how we transplants hold a common regard for one another that is genuine. Advice is offered on temporary housing, cédula renewal, nursing care, car or appliance repair and how to establish a bank account. The disastrous fires in the dry season evoke a community spirit with updates about dangers and outreach to those needing help. In times of illness or catastrophe, the true character of bloggers is reflected. Blogs resemble baseball games. By logging on, you take your place in the bleachers to either observe or to participate with boos or cheers for the players and the umpire. There may be joy in Mudville if the responses answer your question or support your team. There can also be anguish – if like Casey, you strike out. Go ahead and log on. You were courageous enough to move to Costa Rica. Blog if you dare.

Local expat blogs can be either a life jacket or a cement anchor. Lurkers, like crocodiles at the Tarcoles River, pounce on a naïve query.

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ATENAS FEATURE

The Telenovela A Guilty Pleasure

By Mary Martin Mason

ears ago, under the pretext of learning Spanish, I became hooked on watching telenovelas in the United States. In those days, long before I envisioned myself living in a Spanish-speaking country, I eked out the storyline from exaggerated body language, typing the Spanish subtitles into Google Translate as fast I could. Later, I discovered online blogs that recapped episodes in English so I could verify what I supposed had happened. The blogs were proof that I was not alone as a fan of this medium. Telenovelas are NOT a Latin version of the American soap opera. For one thing, each is timelimited to six months or even a year, if popular enough to extend the show. The protagonista who suffers until the final moments of a series will next appear in a different production, this time as the villainous antagonista. Different directors and producers from Argentina, Colombia and Mexico will update, revamp, and adapt previous storylines. A great story is worth repeating.

CULTURAL BHERITAGE

The United States has tried to capitalize on the popularity of telenovelas with Ugly Betty (based on a 2006 telenovela, La Fea Mas Bella), Jane the Virgin and a series with Eva Longoria called Telenovela. Interestingly, these are comedies. While there are telenovelas that are comedic, the real enchilada of telenovelas is a hand-wringing drama that lures millions of Central and South American fans to watch. Conflicting cohabitants The dramatic element central to every telenovela is an extended family living under one roof with the generations engaging in incredible conflict. Imagine your extended family cohabiting for years and years! Usually the conflict ensues because either the father or mother (or sometimes a grandparent) is the meanest of the mean. That dominating meddler 134

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is determined to ruin any happiness for a son or daughter who inevitably is in love with someone deemed unworthy of approval. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Romeo and Juliet on a grand opera scale against a backdrop of incredible family wealth such as a ranch that raises prize bulls for bullfighting, a popular mariachi club in Mexico City, a tequila dynasty or a goldmine. Also living under the same roof, or perhaps in adobe shacks out back, are a staff of cooks, maids and stablemen with their own conflicts and foibles. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Downton Abbey with stock characters whose lives represent class differences played out dramatically. Typically there are several love stories running simultaneously. Each couple has its own theme song that an orchestra blares whenever the two are shown on screen, sometimes to the point of drowning out the dialogue. Pay attention because these songs are often on the Top 10 playlist that is heard in restaurants, on street loudspeakers, and in tiendas across Latin America. Scriptwriting rules Telenovelas have rules that offer insights into the Latin culture. First, any prayer fervently offered to the Virgencita (often depicted as Our Lady of Guadalupe) will be answered. There is even a show called La Rosa de Guadalupe that is not a series but singular shows with different characters that are howlermag.com

Telenovela baddies require incredible acting skill not to evoke laughter at their dastardly deeds. victimized, pray to the virgin, and then are saved by the end of the hour. A cardinal rule of telenovelas is that any blood connection between parent and child will result in eerie coincidences. A common storyline is a mother or father separated from their child at birth. Paternity is often a big fat question, or a woman is forced to give up her baby that she searches for incessantly. If she has been told the child is dead, contrary to all evidence — including a clearly marked grave — she knows in her corazón that her child is still alive. When mother and son meet for the first time, just short of recognition, they will feel the call of the blood as they stare deeply into each other's eyes. If that same son has a car accident and the steering wheel impales his chest, the mother will grasp her heart and feel his pain, even though she is in another pueblo. In one telenovela, both mother and daughter shared a trait of scratching her arms when upset. Even face to face, both simultaneously scratching their arms to the point of bleeding, there was no lightbulb going off for these two. This is another vital element of every telenovela. What is DUH-obvious to the audience escapes the heroes and heroines for 50 or more episodes.

Heroes and heroines may not always wear white hats, but they display qualities that are admired throughout Latin America. These include an unwavering faith, loyalty to their families, kindness to children and a belief in fairness that transcends class and other differences. Villains, in direct contrast, are adept at using the hero or heroine’s unwavering faith, family loyalty and especially naivety to their evil advantage. The result is a romp of unmitigated evil triumphing over good for months on end, leading to a grand finale where the bad guys get what has been coming to them. Telenovela baddies require incredible acting skill not to evoke laughter at their dastardly deeds. They commit or hire someone to murder and pillage, escaping retribution until the ultima semana or grand finale. Every waking moment is dedicated to inflicting misery on the heroes. Villains have been born out of Latin stereotypes: the Catholic zealot, the cruel mother who must have been absent in catechism for the study of the Beatitudes, the drug lord posing as a respectable businessman, and the womanizing government official who has fathered so many now-grown children that a variety of couples in town are perilously close to committing incest. Karma awaits Most important for pleasurable viewing is recognizing that each series contains a Latin version of karma. The villain you’ve been hissing for months will meet an end equal to his or her evil deeds.

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ATENAS FEATURE The gorgeous, vain anti-heroine who has snatched away everyone’s husband and killed off her female competitors will have her face burned beyond recognition in a fire she sets. The nasty, who has sent the hero to prison for a trumped-up charge and then paid a prison gang to beat him, will end up in that prison as a favorite on date night with that same gang. One insidious woman was so evil that she was devoured by wolves in the last hour. Another had her tongue cut out (as she had done to someone else) and her hands severed so she couldn’t communicate … the premise being that she no longer would be able to manipulate others with the evil words that had served her well. At least one bad character will be redeemed by the final show. The trick is to figure out which nasty person is redeemable. Typically, this person has not committed murder but has wreaked enough havoc to merit delivering an apology for his or her sins. They may try to make some sort of restitution, but still will be denied a love interest or the pot of gold they coveted. It’s a watered down form of karma.

A telenovela viewing requirement is to suspend logic, just as one must do with musicals like West Side Story when street gangs break out in song and dance. Despite Mexico City’s population of nearly 21,782,000, characters constantly run into each other in a restaurant or move next door to one another. Pregnancies outside of marriage become public knowledge in the waiting room as some nurse loudly announces the news. When someone is shot or stabbed, instead of calling an ambulance, the characters gather around the injured and shout, “Ayudame.” Those who make it past the Ayudame scene to enter a hospital always wear a neck brace. It is as standard as being shocked by paddles in a North American medical show. Silent secret Most exasperating is that much of the storyline revolves around a huge secret that only one of the cast and the audience knows. Out of pride or some other misguided motive, the one in the know keeps silent. Everything could be solved in five minutes if that person would just fess up the true paternity, the murder witnessed or the double identity of a villain. In many telenovelas, the local priest has heard the villain’s confession but is bound by the sacramental

CULTURAL BHERITAGE

The cardinal rule of telenovelas is a last-show extravaganza that checks off all the boxes. These include eradicating the bad guys and holding a wedding, complete with a soaring orchestra playing the main love theme. Each wedding tries to outdo the weddings of other telenovelas — expect a bride carried to the church in a coach driven by white horses, with mariachis on the horses and enough flowers to set off the allergies of the locals. Whatever actors remain alive by the final show episode sit in the congregation. If the wedding occurs

two or three years later, the audience is alerted by a “dos años después” subtitle. The wedding is a clever way to tie up loose ends with characters, showing who else has married whom, who has had a baby, and other life events.

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seal not to spill the sacred beans. Why would anyone evil enough to commit murder enter the confessional booth? That is one of many questions too logical to pose about a telenovela. Over the years, I have come to respect the work of telenovela producers such as Salvador Mejia Alejandre. His love of his native Mexico is reflected in the vibrant colors that splash off the screen, the recipes for the cuisine interwoven into the stories and other cultural symbols. Product placement is blatant in telenovelas. A sponsor’s product may appear in many scenes. Sometimes social messages are woven into the plot such as the importance of mammograms linked to a character’s struggle with breast cancer. A woman escaping the violence in her home may provide specifics on the availability of domestic violence shelters.

As for learning Spanish from the telenovela, there are wonderful phrases you hopefully will never have the occasion to say. These include “cállate” or “shut up,” “suéltenme” or “let go of me,” and “no me toques” or “don’t touch me.” My favorite — repeated whenever a character is shocked, which is fairly often — is “No puede ser. No puede ser.” (“It cannot be. It cannot be.”). Fault me, if you like, for devoting so much time to a genre of television that is overacted and often more parodic than lifelike. For me, the telenovela is a temporary escape into a world where bad guys pay the price for their sins, good but not-so-savvy folks ultimately find happiness, and solutions are just a prayer away. It is the ultimate escapism from the current troubles of our planet.

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Costa Rica Howler Magazine - September 2020

Articles inside

Coopeguanacaste brought electricity to Tamarindo in 1974. Before that, there simply wasn’t any.