Costa Rica Howler Magazine - January 2021 by Howler Media Holding, Inc.

HOWLER JANUARY 2021

C osta R i c a Lifes t yle, T r av el & Adv en t u r e

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EDITORIAL

W H AT C O LO R G R E E N A R E YO U ?

ave you ever wondered what it means to be green Costa Rica has the reputation of being among the topranking eco-conscious countries in the world. Is it true or just effective marketing?

Well as someone who has been here a while, I would have to say it’s really both: great marketing and actions taken to protect the environment. As the world has evolved and overuse of plastics in particular has caused an environmental crisis, local eco groups have really dug in and made a difference. Commenting on one of my recent Facebook posts, a lady said she carries a bag with her while walking on the beach every day and picks up as she goes along. My reply to her was, isn’t it a shame that instead of enjoying the beauty surrounding us here, we spend time picking up so that it is beautiful? I want to thank those who do this and care enough to do this. It’s a shame that our time of enjoyment might be encumbered by the trash washed up on shore or the mess left behind by beachgoers. We are in for a change here: new people, new businesses and more.

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The past year has been difficult for all of us. We have seen many people decide that living here is not the best option now and are moving back to their home countries. Living here has many challenges, and when an economic downturn happens, it amplifies the difficulties. As many have left or are leaving, we need to be prepared for new arrivals. This year’s situation worldwide has also opened up the possibility of an influx of investors to Costa Rica — pursuing the dream of wanting to escape and live a “less” encumbered life. Caution: with this possible upswing of people moving here comes the issue of trusted sources, assuming pre-departure research has been done. Even those who feel well informed can succumb to the crazy thing that takes hold of people when they step off the plane and catch their first glimpse of the ocean or a palm tree. Something happens to their sense of groundedness in reality … out the window it goes. Having a happy experience here requires digging in, and that includes deeper layers with your so-called trusted sources. Don’t take the word of that guy you meet at a bar. Don’t just take the word of the realtor or the sales brochure either. Do your own homework. It can save you from falling into the pura vida trap as so many have done.

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I’ve learned this the hard way. Only by digging in deep — to sift out the facts from the falsehoods — has it become possible for wrongs to gradually be made right. I sunk my teeth in and have relentlessly fought. It has been difficult, but well worth it. I’m optimistic that it could be increasingly more difficult for the perpetrators of deceptive marketing tactics and other serious legal violations to get away with such wrongdoing. Things are changing in Costa Rica. This is no longer a wild west expat frontier where anything goes — bribes, building without permits or with fraudulent permits, shrugging it off as easier to apologize than ask for permission … “that’s just how it is here.” These fringe ways of doing business are no longer acceptable.

As this same developer proclaimed to prospective condo buyers when boasting about the treatment plant that existed on paper only, we all have a duty to the environment. This was a compelling inducement of trust in the integrity of the condominium project.

Why not, exactly, and why not now? Perhaps a pivotal turning point has been the everdeepening concern for the environment and the need for Costa Rica to measure up to its green reputation. Turning a blind eye to dishonest, unethical and illegal conduct for the sake of business growth and development is not sustainable. It’s not sustainable economically because it’s not sustainable environmentally. In one instance I am personally familiar with, what’s at stake is not just in the wallets of condo owners who were conned by a colorful infographic depicting a state-ofthe-art wastewater treatment plant that was supposedly on their property, but in fact, never

existed. What’s at stake is the protected land and waterway adjacent to their property that was compromised by the builder’s shortcut measures to compensate. Reckless disregard for environmental law, as well as building code and health regulations, has been costly in more ways than one.

While it was appallingly wrong to mislead clients that way, it is absolutely true that we all do have a duty to the environment. I believe it’s also our duty to expose those who are abusing that green pledge and exploiting Costa Rica’s reputation, especially when actually harming the environment in reality. We have chosen Costa Rica to call home. Our priority must be to keep it clean and green. We can also make a difference in protecting the country’s image by ensuring the reality is true green, not faux green. What shade of green are you?

John B. Quam Read all current and past articles online howlermag.com #S earch F ind Howl

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HOWLER T r o o p

owler is excited about the start of a new year and the continuing return of international tourists and snowbirds that comes with the season. As highlighted in our cover stories about sportfishing and yachting adventures, and the “Boat Day” article in the Travel & Adventure section, our January 2021 e-magazine incorporates a prominent aquatic theme. That includes an Eco-Creature Feature about the annual migration of humpback whales from Costa Rica’s Pacific coast to the Antarctic waters, where the survival of several other endangered whale species hangs in the balance. The critical importance of globally unified protection efforts is addressed by a periodic Howler contributor who is no stranger to the subject of ocean conservation, Ben Harris. Born into what he calls “a middle-class family with working-class values” in London, England, Ben made it clear from an early age that his adult plans did not include university or a traditional profession. Changing his mind about becoming a stuntman as originally intended, Ben opted for his second choice of career as a diver, which has taken him all over the world. An epic cross-continental journey from Thailand following the devastating tsunami of December 26, 2004 reinforced for Ben that happiness and contentment came from exploring new places and “living free.” Learn more in this month’s Bookshelf article <insert article page link> about Ben’s new book, Detour: Turning the Tide. When not volunteering for Sea Shepherd Conservation Society or Parley for the Oceans in the fight to save our oceans, Ben runs and operates his own company, The Other Panama, from his home on a small island off Panama’s Pacific coast.

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Jan 2021 Vol. 29 No. 1 PUBLISHER / EDITOR-in-CHIEF John B. Quam C r e at i v e & a r t Adriana C. Zerpa marketing director Terry Carlile

WRITERS

account executives

Joanna Blanco. Integrative nutritional health coach who helps clients embrace wellness in five interconnected areas of life: relationships, livelihood, physical activity, spiritual awareness and diet.

John Brockmeier. Writer and activist inspired by diverse interests and international life experiences. Mary Byerly. Highly certified yoga instructor. Guiding others to live vibrantly, creating positive change one person at a time. panaceacr@gmail. com Terry Carlile. Served as a U. S. Navy journalist for eight years, and is also a workshop trainer and keynote speaker. Shannon Dale. Proud mom, writer, artisan, surfer, entrepreneur, marketing specialist and longtime resident of Guanacaste after relocating from the U.S. Ivan Granados.Managing Partner at GM Attorneys, specializing in real estate and corporate law. igranados@ gmattorneyscr.com Karl Kahler. Author of “Frommer’s Costa Rica 2017,” former travel editor of the Tico Times and former national editor of California’s San Jose Mercury News. Laura Méndez. Founder of Pura Vida Vibrations. Offering sound journeys, breath work experiences, cacao ceremonies & other activities. hello@

puravidavibrations.com Mark Sydney. For 20 years, has been booking sportfishing charters and complete vacations from his FishCostaRica/Americana Sportfishing office in San José. WIth his business associate Richard Krug contributing another 30 years’ experience in Costa Rica’s sportfishing tourist industry, Mark often says, “we are in the entertainment business of catching fish”. Ryan Waldron. BS Atmospheric Science, surfer. ryan@witchsrock.com Dr. Herbert Weinman. MD, MBA. thedoctorisinsharkfm@gmail.com

PHOTOGRAPHERS Paul German. Canadian-born photographer whose international influences come from living, working and traveling in many parts of the world. Currently based in the Pacific northwest area of Costa Rica where he enjoys the company of great swells and howler monkeys. Shaka Media. Tamarindo provider of professional photos, videos and images using high-resolution cameras and GoPro models to deliver highquality HD results. shakamediainfo@ gmail.com

Kelly Norris Mary Fernández

E d i t o r i a l S ta f f Debbie Bride - Editorial Coordinator Laurie Quam - Copy Editor Graphic Design Cover Design - Adriana C. Zerpa S pa n i s h T r a n s l at i o n CPI Flamingo HOWLER (™) 2017

C o n ta c t

John Quam - Managing Partner headmonkey@howlermag.com Editor: editor@howlermag.com Advertising: ads@howlermag.com Design: design@howlermag.com CR Office: (506) 4701-5942 Howler Magazine Costa Rica @howlercostarica @thehowlermag @howlermagazine The Howler Gold Coast CR S.A. Ced. Juridica: 3-101-725213

The opinions, beliefs and viewpoints expressed by the various authors in this publication do not necessarily reflect the opinions, beliefs and viewpoints of Howler organization or its advertisers. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission requests write to: info@howlermag.com. The Howler Magazine does not assume responsibility for the content of its advertisements. Images not credited are acquired from stock photography services.

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COVER STORIES

SPORTFISHING! YACHTING! COSTA RICA OFFERS THE BEST OF BOTH

FEATURED EXCURSIONS •

GAMEFISHER II

•

FISH DRAKE BAY

CONTENTS

UP FRONT FEATURED ADVENTURE

PERFECT BOAT DAY HABIT FORMING

FEATURED NATIONAL PARK

SAN LUCAS ISLAND

OLD PRISON NOW A TOURISM GEM ECO CREATURE FEATURE

HOPE FOR THE HUMPBACKS ENDANGERED WHALES NEED HELP

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE SURF SCIENCE

PAPAGAYO WINDS IT MUST BE DRY SEASON SURF SAFETY

RIP CURRENT CAUTION

KNOW HOW TO SAVE YOURSELF SURF SPOT

WITCH’S ROCK

WORLD FAMOUS FOR EPIC TUBES

SURFING CR

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BOOKSHELF

THE DETOUR: TURNING THE TIDE LIFECHANGING JOURNEY FOR HOWLER AUTHOR MUSICIAN SPOTLIGHT

FATINIZA

A WORLD-CLASS ACT

ACE

ART, CULTURE & ENTERTAINMENT

DOCTOR IS IN

SAND FLEA BITES

KNOWLEDGE THE BEST PROTECTION WELLNESS

TIME TO DECLUTTER RESTORE ORDER AND WELL-BEING YOGA WISDOM

SEVA PART OF YOGA TRADITION PURIFY YOUR HEART BY GIVING

PURA VIDA LEGALEASE

MORE COVID-19 FINANCIAL RELIEF CONSTRUCTION SECTOR AND VEHICLE OWNERS

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Joy, Peace & Cheers to a New Year We at Horizon Pacific wish you and your family the Happiest of Holidays! 2020 has been a challenge in so many ways, but even still, we find ourselves grateful for a new perspective as we ponder the year to come. 2021 is sure to be full of wonder and new adventures. As you look forward to adventures with your favorite people, we hope the blue waters and warm sunshine of Costa Rica finds itself on your list. With lush tropical flowers, fresh delicious food and exciting adventures, we will provide the best places to stay. Please reach out to our team, so we can help your 2021 travel dreams come true. And don’t worry, we will continue all our safety measures and flexible options.

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UP FRONT

by Mark Sydney

SPORT

Fishing

COVER STORY

A C O S TA R I C A A D V E N T U R E N OT TO B E M I S S E D

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ttention anglers! Following the gradual easing of international pandemic travel restrictions, November 1, 2020 saw Costa Rica open up to visitors from most of the world. Intrepid saltwater anglers especially should rejoice at the perfect timing. Right on the heels of the opening comes Costa Rica’s annual worldclass billfish bite. From December through April, the waters of the Pacific, especially off Costa Rica’s Central Pacific coast, teem with marlin and sailfish. Anglers from the four corners of the globe come to catch them. Seldom if ever are they disappointed. The country’s two most popular destinations during this period are Los Sueños Marina near Jacó and Pez Vela Marina in Quepos, both with incredible sportfishing fleets. These marinas also host some of the world’s most prestigious billfish tournaments. The acclaimed Los Sueños Signature Triple Crown and the Offshore World Championship at Pez Vela are just two of many. G UA N AC A STE A L SO H A S TE RRI FI C FI SH I N G Tourists vacationing in Guanacaste this season should also enjoy memorable sportfishing adventures. By heading to Tamarindo, Flamingo, Playas del Coco and resorts in Papagayo, for instance, you can easily make arrangements with experienced local charter captains. There are ALWAYS billfish around, with the added bonus of yellowfin tuna and dorado (mahi-mahi).

Marlin, sailfish, sharks, tarpon and roosterfish have to go back into the water. It’s the law!

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A word of caution: the seas off the central Pacific coast are flat between December and March. But in Guanacaste, the refreshing Papagayo winds sometimes make it difficult to get offshore. Listen to your captain/guide! But don’t let the winds deter you from enjoying a unique sportfishing adventure. Inshore fishing is superb, and the action non-stop. Even if the winds HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 17

UP FRONT

are up, you will be able to hug the shore and target tasty snapper and grouper, tenacious gamefish like roosterfish and jack, along with tripletail and rainbow runner. You might even encounter a small shark. C ATCH -AN D -R EL EA S E FOR MA RL I N , SAILFISH AND ROOS T ER F I S H By the way, Costa Rica sportfishing is totally catch-and-release for certain species. Marlin, sailfish, sharks, tarpon and roosterfish have to go back into the water. It’s the law! But you can keep anything edible you catch, such as tuna, dorado, snapper and grouper. The mate’s job is to cut or fillet the fish as you like for you. Most restaurants in sportfishing destinations will prepare your catch to your preferences, charging a plate price. G E TTIN G R EA DY FOR BI L L F I S H S EASON

Fresh mahi mahi caught in the ocean. Photo: MPH Photos

VIDEO CLICK HERE

COVER STORY

In anticipation of this year’s sportfishing season, many boats have just gone back into the water after major overhauls. The boat you charter should be in tip-top shape. Captains, mates and skilled crews scraped and painted hulls. Marine mechanics rebuilt and fine-tuned skittish, ornery inboard diesels. Marine electricians spent time examining and repairing every inch of sportfishing yachts’ intricate and delicate electrical systems. So if you haven’t already, think of some fishing while you are visiting Costa Rica this season. It’s an exceptionally rewarding adventure for everyone: men and women, experienced anglers and novices. It’s fun for couples, and especially for families with kids.

Dip your rods. Tight lines!

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Photos courtesy of Mark Sydney HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 19

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UP FRONT Sponsored Content

GAMEFISHER II

NO FIS H TA L E

FEATURED FISHING EXCURSION

his is no fish tale; it is the tale of a family. In 1987, Captain Richard Chellemi was hired to captain a brand new custom-built sport fisher christened Gamefisher II out of the Marina Flamingo. It was one of three beautiful Gamefisher boats: fiberglass on wood construction made in San José, Costa Rica. After only a few years, the boats were up for sale, a serendipitous turn of events which allowed Richard and his wife Melissa to take over the charter business that they continue to own and operate 32 years later. The Gamefisher II was hauled out and given a major refit in 2008. Some new features were added to make her even more comfortable and a more efficient fishing machine.

They are teachers to sportfishing newcomers and skilled professionals to seasoned veterans.

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It is extremely rare to find a sportfishing charter boat with a crew that works together so well and has stayed together for as long. Captain Chellemi’s first mate, Junior Bustos Abarca from Potrero, Guanacaste, held that position in the cockpit for 20 years. The Gamefisher II team began to earn its reputation in the national and international sportfishing community as one of Costa Rica’s most sought-after charter fishing outfits. howlermag.com

Two decades ago, 15-year-old Diego Lopez showed up to help wash down the boat. A few years later he became second mate for Junior. Diego was a quick study and a natural. Shortly thereafter Captain Chellemi handed the helm over to Captain Junior and the cockpit became Diego’s. All of their years spent working and fishing together is the reason why the Gamefisher II crew members work together like a fine-tuned machine. They are teachers to sportfishing newcomers and skilled professionals to seasoned veterans. SO M E FU N FAC TS • Most sailfish caught in one day: 69 • Biggest marlin caught: estimated weight 1,000 pounds • Most marlin caught in one day: 9 blue marlin, fishing out of Potrero in the Presidential Challenge Flamingo Rodeo tournament in August 2020 — a fact that deserves its own story. • Most famous person who fished on Gamefisher II: Johnny Cash and wife June Carter Cash The crew on the Gamefisher II has collaborated with marine biologist and underwater cinematographer Rick Rosenthal, a four-time Emmy award winner in producing documentary films for the BBC Blue Planet Series and PBS Winds of the Papagayos, Hunters of the Sea Winds, Dark Side of the Ocean and Superfish. Through this experience the crew members have a greater understanding of marine life. which helps them to practice and teach sustainable, responsible fishing. They take pride in sharing the experience with others.

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Nicolas Vid

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ea u a n d G

erard Azen

Huacas

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UP FRONT

FISH DRAKE B Sponsored Content

FEATURED FISHING EXCURSION

scape the crowds, marinas and high priced fishing lodges and come fish with the no.1 rated tour on Trip Advisor in beautiful Drake Bay. We are located 50 miles south of Manuel Antonio on the northern end of the world famous Corcovado National Park on the Osa peninsula. You wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t find any large hotels, condos or casinos here, just rainforest and wildlife. Because of our remote location, we have no fishing pressure here. We have two boats to choose from to accommodate all budgets. The Reel Escape is a 35-foot luxury sportfishing yacht featuring air-conditioning, galley, salon and a full-size bathroom. The Reel Time is a 26-foot walkaround center console. She features a clean burning 250 hp Yamaha 4-stroke engine.

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We have an incredibly beautiful and diverse fishery right in our backyard. The unspoiled shoreline, numerous river mouths and rocky outcroppings offer the inshore angler tons of places to cast for roosterfish, snapper, mackerel and jacks. Just 12 miles from Drake is CaĂąo Island with its massive reef system. The reef has great bottom fishing for big cubera snapper, grouper, amberjack and pompano. We also troll around the island for tuna, mahi and wahoo. The offshore bite can be nothing short of amazing. Our crystal clear blue water holds big pelagic fish such as Pacific sailfish, blue and black marlin, big mahi and yellowfin tuna. As an added bonus, we often see mega-pods of howlermag.com

VIDEO

BAY

The offshore bite can be nothing short of amazing.

spinner dolphins. The pods hold thousands of dolphins leaping and spinning. Both our boats feature Coast Guard-approved safety equipment, emergency beacons and satellite phone.

mates will take care of all your needs while on board. We offer both half-day and full-day trips. Full-day trips include a full homemade lunch by Willyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wife, who is a professional chef.

The captain of Fish Drake Bay is Willy Atencio, who has over 20 years of professional experience and is considered one of the best captains in Costa Rica. Willy is a native of Drake Bay and has fished big game tournaments in the United States and Bahamas. He has fished in the Offshore World Championships for six consecutive years.

Fish that you may want to keep will be expertly filleted and packed in ice. All the lodges and restaurants in the area will prepare your fresh catch. We practice catch and release for all billfish and roosterfish so future generations can enjoy this incredible sport.

We welcome all clients on our boats, where our two full-time professional #s earchf indh owl

Please visit our website at www. fishdrakebay.com for more information on how to reserve a trip. Follow us on Instagram @fishdrakebay. Sponsored by SaltLife. HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 27

UP FRONT

Yachting T H E U LT I M AT E S O C I A L D I S TA N C I N G VA C AT I O N

by John Brockmeier

ou can’t miss those large yachts cruising the shorelines of Costa Rica. Have you ever dreamed about what it is like to experience the luxury of being on a yacht … being pampered, and the total getaway package? Yachting vacations have become another form of social distancing. Now more than ever, people are embarking on vacations designed to avoid large crowds. Yachting is a luxury option available not only for the rich and famous but as a shared vacation option for families and close friends. Sharing expenses makes these vacations fun and affordable. Your choice of yachts depends on the options you want for your experience.

COVER STORY

Super yachts are larger in every sense of the word. With space for many passengers and outfitted with a full staff, they offer luxury accommodations and many toys, both aquatic and onshore. A super yacht is classified as such when it meets or exceeds a load line length of 24 meters. It can be powered by motor or sails. Super yachts come equipped with a variety of recreational gear on board; from jet skis to submersibles, the possibilities are endless.

Costa Rica is the perfect place for a yachting adventure.

There are many types of yachts and a lot to consider when picking the right one for your trip. KN OW YOU R YAC H T S What makes any boat a yacht? It can be a sail or motor-powered vessel used for pleasure, cruising, or racing. There is no standard definition, so the term “yacht” applies to such vessels that have a cabin

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with amenities that accommodate overnight use.

A smaller craft can be equally enjoyable and offer luxury as well, but is usually less spacious than a super yacht. You can expect fewer crew members, who fulfill multiple tasks rather than defined job descriptions. YAC H TI N G PA RA D I SE Costa Rica is the perfect place for a yachting adventure. Largely spared from man-made developments, the pristine coastlines make it seem like a new unexplored world. There are so many coves and secluded beaches that are not often visited. You feel like the world just doesn’t exist outside your chosen vacation environment. howlermag.com

COSTA RICA &RICA PANAMA COSTA & PANAMA 8 DAY8CHARTER DAY CHARTER Yacht charter companies are full-service with experienced staff who are trained to take care of your every need. When planning a yachting vacation, it is highly recommended that you work with a charter professional. These experts can arrange everything from jet transportation, helicopters, luxury tenders and cars to onboard entertainment, beauty, and wellness treatments.

DAY 1 HERRADURA

Welcome to the Wild Arrive at San José’s Juan Santamaria international airport for An by itinerary and other information for one transportation private car to your yacht. Along the route, take in the vibrant green landscapes of Costa Rica, where over the next 8 days you’ll encounter wildlife you never imagined and explore the wild side of Central America. Meet the yacht in Herradura Bay. Settle in onboard or take a walk on Herradura’s long sandy beach. Keen for sportsfishing? Marina is a fantastic spot where you might WelcomeLos to Sueños the Wild catch 40lb dorado, 300lb yellowfin tuna and Pacific sailfish.

They have extensive knowledge of the world’s most popular destinations and can organize everything to meet or exceed your expectations. They will fill in all the details of your yacht vacation and make your experience one to remember.

such company, Bluewater, is featured here

DAY 1 HERRADURA

Arrive at San José’s Juan Santamaria international airport for transportation by private car to your yacht. Along the route, take in DAY TORTUGA ISLAND the 2 vibrant green landscapes of Costa Rica, where over the next Monkey Safari 8 days you’ll encounter wildlife you never imagined and explore the Take your first cruise to Tortuga Island, enjoying stunning views of Costa wild side ofcoastline. Central the yacht inshow Herradura Bay. Settle Rica’s verdant WeAmerica. will arrange Meet a local expert guide to you the best secret spots to see howler monkeys, long sandy beach. Keen for in onboard or nature take a walk onwhite-faced Herradura’s white-nosed coatis, three-toed sloths, toucans and brightly coloured sportsfishing? Los Sueños Marina is a fantastic spot where you might butterflies. Later in the day, grab a paddleboard or snorkel and explore catch 40lbindorado, yellowfin tuna and Pacific sailfish. independently the island’s300lb rich waters DAY 3 QUEPOS Rainforest Adventure Today, leave the sea behind and venture deep into the rainforest by private jet. Land in a banana plantation and enjoy a private tour Monkey Safari #s earchf indh owl Pacuarestunning River. before a white-knuckle afternoon raft ride down the Take your first cruise to Tortuga Island, enjoying

DAY 2 TORTUGA ISLAND

views of Costa

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catch 40lb dorado, 300lb yellowfin tuna and Pacific sailfish.

DAY 2 TORTUGA ISLAND Monkey Safari Take your first cruise to Tortuga Island, enjoying stunning views of Costa Rica’s verdant coastline. We will arrange a local expert guide to show you the best secret nature spots to see white-faced howler monkeys, white-nosed coatis, three-toed sloths, toucans and brightly coloured butterflies. Later in the day, grab a paddleboard or snorkel and explore independently in the island’s rich waters

DAY 3 QUEPOS Rainforest Adventure Today, leave the sea behind and venture deep into the rainforest by private jet. Land in a banana plantation and enjoy a private tour before a white-knuckle afternoon raft ride down the Pacuare River. Cruising is also available for a gentler experience. Find yourself in awe at the fabulous rainforest and huge waterfalls surrounding you. You will end up at an airstrip, from where you’ll take a stunningly scenic flight back to the yacht, off Quepos.

DAY 4 CANO ISLAND Sharks & Stingrays Lying 12km off the coast, Cano Island is known as one of the top dive spots in all of Costa Rica. Designated as a Biological Reserve, it features 15ft reefs, head corals, cup corals, and sea fans, and you are likely to spot sharks, stingrays, dolphins, turtles and morays swimming among them. On your tender ride back to the yacht, keep an eye out for the humpback whales and dolphins that splash through these waters.

DAY 5 CORCOVADO NATIONAL PARK Vast bio Rainforest Today, explore the extraordinary Corcovado National Park, one of the largest lowland tropical rainforests in Central America. Spanning 163 square miles, half of the Osa Peninsula, Corcovado was designated “the most biologically intense place on Earth” by National Geographic. Encounter puma, ocelot, jaguarundi, margay and endangered jaguars, scarlet macaws, as well as howler, white-faced capuchin, squirrel and spider monkeys. Return to Puerto Jiménez for the evening.

DAY 6 PUERTO ARMUELLES Cloud Forest The yacht will continue south and into Panama for the first time, where it will anchor in Puerto Armuelles. From here, you will be privately transported to Boquete, home to the iconic cloud forest. A private local guide will take you on a set of spectacular trails up into the virgin cloud forest surrounding the perimeter of Volcan Baru National Park. You’ll spot Resplendent Quetzal, sloths, monkeys and 200+ species of colorful tropical birds, all set among stunning views.

DAY 7 ISLA DE COIBA Coral Reef Park The largest island in Central America, this national park spans 194 square miles and fringed by one of the largest coral reefs on the Pacific coast. The island was a penal colony for political prisoners and criminals from 1919 to 2004, and because of its terrifying reputation, it was left alone and is today a natural paradise. Go deep sea fishing, diving or snorkeling - 760 species of fish have been recorded here, including snappers, barracuda, amberjack and marlin, plus turtles, humpback whales, sharks, whale sharks and orcas.

DAY 8 PUERTO JIMENEZ Disembarkation Cruise back to Puerto Jiménez for disembarkation before flying to San José for onward connection.

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sportsfishing? Los Sueños Marina is a fantastic spot where you might catch 40lb dorado, 300lb yellowfin tuna and Pacific sailfish.

For over 25 years Bluewater has been providing the ultimate in yacht charter for both corporate entertainment and private vacations. We ensure your yacht charter will be a success. Sharks & Stingrays DAY 4 CANO ISLAND

Lying 12km off the coast, Cano Island is known as one of the top dive spots in all of Costa Rica. Designated as a Biological Reserve, it features 15ft reefs, head corals, cup corals, and sea fans, and you are likely to spot sharks, stingrays, dolphins, turtles and morays swimming among them. On your tender ride back to the yacht, keep an eye out for the BU ILD : humpback whales and dolphins that splash through these waters.

SAMSARA

DAY 6 PUERTO ARMUELLES

Max i M ar i n Gr o up

YEAR :

201 7

LEN GTH :

30. 2 m (99 f t)

BEAM :

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GUES TS :

CAB INS :

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CR EW:

SP EED :

10 ( cr ui si n g)

CHARTER RATE: from $75,000 / week MORE INFORMATION>>>

Cloud Forest The yacht will continue south and into Panama for the first time, where it will anchor in Puerto Armuelles. From here, you will be privately to Boquete, B transported UI LD : Lago o n home to the iconic cloud forest. A private local guide will take you on a set of spectacular trails up into the virgin Y EAR: 2 020 cloud forest surrounding the perimeter of Volcan Baru National Park. L ENGTH : Resplendent 2 4m (7 Quetzal, 9f t ) You’ll spot sloths, monkeys and 200+ species of colorful tropical birds, all set B EAM : 1 1m (3 6f t ) among stunning views.

L A GATTA

GU EST S :

COIBA CDAY ABI NS7 : ISLA 1DE Mas te r, 2 D o ubl e s + 1 Tw i n Coral Reef Park

CThe REW: 4 largest island in Central America, this national park spans 194 S square PE ED: miles and1fringed 0 (cr u iby si ng) one of the largest coral reefs on the Pacific coast. The island was a penal colony for political prisoners and CHARTER RATE: from $49,000 / week

criminals from 1919 to 2004, and because of its terrifying reputation, it was left alone and is today a natural paradise. Go deep sea fishing, MORE INFORMATION>>> diving or snorkeling - 760 species of fish have been recorded here, including snappers, barracuda, amberjack and marlin, plus turtles, humpback whales, sharks, whale sharks and orcas.

FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT: DAY 8 PUERTO JIMENEZ Ami G. Ira Disembarkation t: 1 954 653 0569 Cruise back to Puerto Jiménez for disembarkation before flying to San José for onward connection. m: +1 954 258 1565 e: mycharter@bluewateryachting.com #s earchf indh owl

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 31

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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 33

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

Perfect Boat Day BECAME MY NEW HABIT by Shannon Dale

FEATURED ADVENTURE

kick off my flip flops and wade knee-deep into the water for a quick jump onto the 25foot motorboat, La Tica Linda III. It’s being held in place against the small incoming waves by our guide, Eddie, while Captain Oscar keeps the anchor line tight. Once on board we make our way to the bow to begin our half-day private tour. There’s plenty of room for the six of us. I opt for fullon, blatant and blinding sun in order to get the optimal amount of exposure possible, while my red-headed and slightly translucentskinned friend, Amy, takes the shadiest spot just in front of the center console.

The only thing I am required to do on this day is relax and enjoy myself.

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Eddie, who is immediately likeable with his big smile and jovial manner, gives us a brief introduction. His English, while

delivered with a thick accent, is near perfect and it is immediately clear to us that he intends to have as much fun on this day as we do. Captain Oscar already has the boat on a slow cruise out of the bay and I find myself with an offering of fresh fruit and an ice cold beer in hand. This is a boat day ... like a holiday or one of those personal care days you take from work when it’s totally acceptable to have a “shower beer” at 8 a.m. The only thing I am required to do on this day is relax and enjoy myself. This day is well deserved and needed. We start by cruising around the Bahia Culebra and taking in the beauty of the Papagayo Peninsula. Near pristine, calm water beaches extend out to the clearest blue and emerald waters. Eddie baits and throws a few fishing lines in for a bit of trolling in hopes to catch a little something extra for our beach barbecue later. howlermag.com

VIDEO CLICK HERE

S O PER FECT It is not long before we’ve got a nice tuna on the line, which my friend Dave is given the honor of reeling in. Perhaps the tuna is what drew the pod of dolphins to the bow to playfully guide the boat. It’s all too perfect! So perfect we suspect a professional relationship or deal exists between our crew and the marine life of the area. Like, how well do they all actually know each other? Probably pretty well since this is what they all do every day. After a thorough tour of the area, Captain Oscar picks a beautiful spot of reef in between beaches and we jump in to enjoy a bit of snorkeling where we see puffers, turtles, eels and even an octopus. Gave me the heebie jeebies a bit, that last one — graceful and mesmerizing alien! After a thorough underwater exploration, we load back into the boat, now with earned #s earchf indh owl

appetites and off to a nearby beach. There we check out some caves, paddle on standup paddle boards and just relax in the sand while Eddie grills up one of the best lunches the lot of us have ever had! We savor marinated and grilled chicken, chorizo, perfectly grilled veggies and a tasty and refreshing potato salad! Shortly after lunch, with full and content bellies and close to five hours’ worth of sun, salt water and sand on us, it’s time to enjoy a slow cruise back to the beach where we started. The boisterous conversation and energy that started the trip has been replaced by a content quiet as we all lay back and silently take in the scenery and enjoy the occasional misting of water as the boat bounces. I personally contemplate why I do not do this more often and make a deal with myself to make this a new habit. We’re already booked for the same day, next month. HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 35

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

SAN LUCAS by Karl Kahler

FEATURED NATIONAL PARK

ISLAND FROM HELL HOTEL FOR PRISONERS TO NATIONAL CONSERVATION GEM

Aerial view of the prison site. Photo: Giancarlo Pucci Originally published in May 2018

or the most incorrigible misbehavior, like killing another prisoner, inmates at the San Lucas prison island were lowered into “the hole” — literally a hole in the middle of a big concrete disc on top of what was designed to be a cistern to hold rainwater. This underground dungeon actually did hold water, sometimes up to a man’s midriff, so the unfortunate souls condemned to this gruesome punishment were unable to sit,

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much less lie down and sleep, for however many days and nights they had to endure this torture. “You had to stand for days, and sometimes they had people in there for like a month, and they came out either dead or crazy,” said Vigdis Vatshaug, the Norwegian tour guide who led my family on a fascinating and disturbing tour of one of the most brutal prison islands on earth howlermag.com

President Inaugurates 30th National Park VIDEO

by Howler Staff

ugust 24, 2020, marked the start of a new chapter in the storied history of San Lucas Island when it became Costa Rica’s 30th national park. The ceremonial signing of a decree by President Carlos Alvarado coincided with the 50th anniversary of the country’s national park system. (Learn more in Howler’s June 2020 cover story, Costa Rica’s Protected Places.) The new national park status reflects the island’s potential as a tourism hub for the Gulf of Nicoya, with government officials hopeful about a ripple effect in the port of Puntarenas and neighboring islands and communities. Having languished into ruin for two decades after the prison was closed in 1991, San Lucas Island underwent rehabilitation as a wildlife refuge when the National System of Conservation Areas (SINAC) took over its management in 2012. It has since enjoyed popularity as an easily accessible attraction for visitors on day trips out of Puntarenas. The boat ride takes 30 to 40 minutes. Besides touring the abandoned prison, visitors can see abundant wildlife species including indigenous species of monkeys, snakes and anteaters, as well as deer and crocodiles.

— right here in the happiest country in the world, in the Gulf of Nicoya, a short boat ride away from Playa Naranjo. San Lucas Island is best-known as the setting of “La isla de los hombres solos” (“The Island of Lonely Men”), a novel written by the former inmate José León Sánchez, a Tico accused of stealing religious icons from the Basilica of Cartago who spent 30 years imprisoned here. #s earchf indh owl

In this case, the truth is every bit as strange as the fiction. As soon as we disembarked from our boat at the rusty old pier, we climbed the steps to the “Camino de Amargura,” the “Road of Bitterness” that greeted new inmates upon arrival during the years the prison was open, from 1873 to 1991. Flanking this road are two small, dirty rooms, now filled with bats, where new arrivals were welcomed by being corralled into a filthy, HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 37

crowded enclosure with no place to sit or sleep except the floor. They were given very little food, and the bathroom was a bucket in the middle of the floor. New arrivals spent several days in this dungeon — letting them know what lay ahead, and undoubtedly making them thankful when they were released to larger quarters with separate latrines. “People were not punished for doing something wrong,” Vigdis said. “They were punished so they wouldn’t do anything wrong.” THE BALL AND CHAIN Each inmate was issued a ball and chain attached to his ankle, with the size of the iron ball commensurate to his crime. The largest iron ball might weigh 50 pounds, and these were never removed. Prisoners oddly took pride in keeping their ball and chain clean, according to Sánchez’s book.

FEATURED NATIONAL PARK

“They all kept polishing and keeping their ball and chain very nice,” Vigdis said. “They never would drag it because then it would be dirty; there was a pride in having a very nice ball and chain.” In the worst cases, Vigdis said, two men were shackled shoulder to shoulder, so that neither man could sit, lie, walk or void his bowels without the other man at his side. Some men spent decades here, and a great many died in this desolate place. Vigdis said an astonishing 20 percent, one out of five, died in their first year. A few men managed to escape, having

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removed their shackles with tools they were given to break rocks. They had to brave strong currents to swim to the nearest island, or even to the mainland, but Vigdis said all escapees died or were recaptured. THE BRAVE HOOKER The happiest story we heard was about the day the prostitute came. Vigdis related a tale from the book about a prison commander who hated homosexuality, which was rampant on a prison island for only men. The warden decided that the only way to put a stop to all the sodomy was to bring in women. So the guards went to Puntarenas (also known as “Putarenas”) and recruited prostitutes to service the prisoners.

“The hole undergro Photo: Ka

Relativ graffiti

“And the prisoners were of course excited,” Vigdis said. “They cleaned up the best they could, and were making little presents for the ladies. “So the boat comes back from Puntarenas and it’s empty — because these prostitutes have only heard of this prison as a very dangerous place, with brutal criminals, murderers, rapists. But they tried again the next Sunday and one woman came. And the guards said they put her in the visitation house, and everybody got in line, and they decided how much time they had with her. “She went back to Puntarenas and said the prisoners were all well-behaved and they all loved her and said she was beautiful and everything, so the following Sundays there were more coming in.” My girlfriend, Guiselle, who used to live in nearby Paquera and visited this island many years ago, said the youngest, bestlooking prisoners were taken as lovers by howlermag.com

Picture prison o church ground 2017. P

e,” an infamous ound torture chamber. Karl Kahler

Kitchen, still under construction when the prison closed. Photo: Karl Kahler

vely well-drawn images stand out among the cruder pornographic i. Photos: Recaredo Cerdas

Cell block with graffiti-covered walls Photo: Karl Kahler

Aerial view of the prison’s central compound. Photo: Recaredo Cerdas

ed at right of the three-storey officers’ quarters is a small that was burned to the d by suspected arsonists in Photo: Recaredo Cerdas

Prisoners oddly took pride in keeping their ball and chain clean. #s earchf indh owl

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 39

the toughest inmates, and if they were unfaithful, they were killed. Vigdis said several men were forced into prostitution, or did it willingly, servicing anyone who could pay with a bowl of food, a shirt or whatever. The walls of the nine cellblocks here are covered with graffiti, including pornographic pictures and forlorn comments. One note says, “Kneepads and bibs sold here,” signed by the gerente de ventas, the “sales manager.” One striking drawing portrays a largerthan-life-size woman in a sexy pose, wearing a bikini that Vigdis said was reportedly painted in blood. “Some say that he cut himself every day to paint again and again, and other stories say that he cut other people to collect blood,” she said.

FEATURED NATIONAL PARK

Guiselle, who once met a former San Lucas prisoner, said he told her that someone killed another prisoner here and used his blood to write on the wall: “This is how I’m going to die.” It’s hard to separate truth from legend here, as the prison’s log books were thrown into the sea years ago. Vigdis is aware of one nonfiction book about the prison, “Una historia sin fin,” “A Story With No End,” but she has never been able to find it. Most of her information comes from Sánchez’s novel and from the oral histories related by former guards, prisoners and visitors.

three years. In the early days, laundry service was as nonexistent as medical attention, and of course people smelled pretty bad. “So a lot of the prisoners walked around naked because they had lost a shirt in a bet over a piece of bread,” Vigdis said. “They could only wash [clothes] if they were on the beach, in salt water, but the only fresh water they got was to drink.” If a prisoner died, other inmates could buy his clothes with some of their food. “And the people that died, they were often sick and had infection and lice and so on,” she said. “And you were so happy because it was a better shirt, or maybe you didn’t have any, and you’re wearing the sweat and the blood of someone who just died.” The architects of this island were French, who were experts in prison islands (look up Devil’s Island, or read the book “Papillon”). The worst of the horrors here date from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, though a nationwide prison reform in the 1960s eased conditions here considerably. Balls and chains were abolished, and some prisoners were allowed to build crude houses, plant gardens and raise chickens.

CLICK HERE TO SEE MORE

LAUNDRY SERVICE Inmates were issued a striped uniform upon arrival that had to last them two or

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Kitchen corner. Photo: Karl Kahler

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ECO CREATURE FEATURE 42 |#searchfindhowl| online

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by Ben Harris

HOPE FOR THE HUMPBACKS

WHALES AND MORE ENDANGERED

o swim 16,000 miles is an impressive feat by any standard, but to do this on an empty stomach and while pregnant is truly remarkable. Granted, the humpback whale has a significant size advantage over humans and most animal species. Nonetheless, for these magnificent creatures to make the round trip every year from Antarctica to the warm waters of Panama and Costa Rica is nothing short of phenomenal. #s earchf indh owl

During the months from June to October, and sometimes earlier or later, the humpback whales can be seen and heard around the Pacific coasts of Central America. They come for the warm waters and shallow depths, to give birth or to find a mate, or both. There is no food for them here, only safe bays and sheltered reefs. This is where newborn humpbacks can be released into the shallows and nurse on their motherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 30% pure-fat milk in relative safety, without fear of attack from predators such as orca whales. HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 43

COURTSHIP SONG Beneath the ocean’s surface at this time of year, divers and snorkelers can hear the humpback’s unmistakable song. It is believed that only the males sing as they search and compete to find a mate. They remain solitary most of the time, cruising the coastlines singing their individual ballads. Scientists have determined that some of the lowestfrequency whale sounds, inaudible to humans, can transmit thousands of miles through the ocean without losing their energy.

VIDEO CLICK HERE

P O L A R M I G R AT I O N What we know for certain about these massive mammals, extending 12 meters in length, is where they go when they are not on their summer holidays in the warm waters of the Americas. They go south — as far south as you can go to the cold extreme of Antarctica, or the last ocean as it is sometimes known.

ECO CREATURE FEATURE

H U M A N T H R E AT S Away from the relative safety of Antarctica, where the only real threat came from Japanese whaling fleets, the humpbacks head north through the obstacle course of human barricades: fishing boats with their mile-long nets, container ships with their house-sized propellers and the ever-present hazards of plastic pollution and abandoned lines and nets. CLICK HERE TO READ MORE

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RECOVERY FROM NEAR EXTINCTION

Having once lit lamps all over the world as fuel for the industrial revolution, it was this oil that drove almost all whales to the point of extinction. Some species, including the humpback, are slowly recovering but are still a long way from replenishing their previous population numbers. Other endangered whale species are not faring as well, with numbers continuing to decline. That includes the blue whale — the largest mammal on the planet at up to 25 meters long — and the right whale (black whale), so-named for the abundance of oil making it the “right” harpoon target. Despite a global moratorium on whaling since 1980, some countries are non-compliant. And besides the other human threats related to fishing lines and nets, container ship transportation and plastic pollution, whales are at risk of food supply depletion as we plunder further and deeper into our ocean ecosystems. As we run out of fish and head closer to the year 2048, when the United Nations admits our oceans will be empty, we edge bit by bit south. Gradually more ships are creeping into the last ocean … the ocean we vowed would stay off limits to all: no fishing, no ownership, no borders or flag planting. This is supposed to be the whales’ safe place for nourishment and rest to continue their migration and life cycle. But humans are taking their krill to create new pills or supplements for needs that are just as easily supplied from plant sources. This is to disregard the needs of the pregnant mother whales that we love to see. There is hope for the whales if our human world is proactive and unified in protecting these marvellous mammals. Barring a few selfish countries, the common commitment and cooperation among conservation-minded leaders to reverse the damage done has already shown promise in restoring some whale populations. But they are not out of the woods yet. We must keep working together to keep the last ocean safe for the whales, and all of our oceans alive. That is for the sake of all life on land and out in the blue.

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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 45

a y a Pl

e d n a r G Nestled within the Las Baulas National Park, Playa Grande is the perfect escape from city life: excellent surf, a beautiful beach and a community offering wonderful amenities. Just 4 hours away from San Jose, Playa Grande is the perfect home away from home for you and your loved ones. Click anywhere on our page to learn more about what our community has to offer you during your next getaway! Photo & video credit: Richie Ramone/Carive Productions @cariveproductions www.cariveproductions.com

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Amazing surf Pristine beach Excellent restaurants Wonderful amenities #s earchf indh owl

HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 47

MOON PHASES

JAN 6

JANUARY TIDE CHART DAY

HIGH TIDES

LOW TIDES

HIGH TIDES

LOW TIDES

Fri 01

04:08 8.97 ft

10:21 0.11 ft

16:41 8.57 ft

22:36 0.86 ft

Sat 02

04:49 8.94 ft

11:00 0.08 ft

17:21 8.71 ft

23:19 0.78 ft

Sun 03

05:32 8.80 ft

11:41 0.15 ft

18:03 8.79 ft

Mon 04

00:04 0.77 ft

06:16 8.58 ft

12:23 0.29 ft

18:47 8.80 ft

Tue 05

00:52 0.83 ft

07:04 8.30 ft

13:09 0.50 ft

19:36 8.77 ft

JAN 12

Wed 06

01:45 0.93 ft

07:57 7.99 ft

14:00 0.74 ft

20:29 8.72 ft

New Moon

Thu 07

02:42 1.02 ft

08:56 7.72 ft

14:55 0.98 ft

21:27 8.68 ft

Fri 08

03:44 1.04 ft

10:00 7.57 ft

15:57 1.15 ft

22:29 8.71 ft

Sat 09

04:50 0.94 ft

11:07 7.60 ft

17:03 1.18 ft

23:33 8.83 ft

Sun 10

05:55 0.70 ft

12:13 7.82 ft

18:08 1.07 ft

3rd Quarter

HIGH TIDES

Mon 11

00:35 9.04 ft

06:57 0.36 ft

13:14 8.18 ft

19:11 0.85 ft

JAN 20

Tue 12

01:33 9.27 ft

07:53 0.01 ft

14:11 8.57 ft

20:09 0.60 ft

Wed 13

02:27 9.46 ft

08:45 −0.29 ft

15:03 8.93 ft

21:03 0.39 ft

1st Quarter

Thu 14

03:18 9.54 ft

09:34 −0.47 ft

15:52 9.17 ft

21:53 0.29 ft

Fri 15

04:06 9.48 ft

10:19 −0.48 ft

16:39 9.27 ft

22:41 0.31 ft

Sat 16

04:52 9.27 ft

11:03 −0.34 ft

17:24 9.20 ft

23:27 0.47 ft

Sun 17

05:37 8.92 ft

11:46 −0.04 ft

18:08 9.00 ft

Mon 18

00:11 0.74 ft

06:22 8.46 ft

12:27 0.37 ft

18:52 8.69 ft

Tue 19

00:57 1.08 ft

07:07 7.94 ft

13:09 0.86 ft

19:36 8.32 ft

Wed 20

01:43 1.44 ft

07:54 7.41 ft

13:52 1.36 ft

20:22 7.94 ft

Thu 21

02:32 1.76 ft

08:44 6.94 ft

14:39 1.84 ft

21:12 7.63 ft

Fri 22

03:26 1.99 ft

09:41 6.59 ft

15:31 2.22 ft

22:05 7.42 ft

Sat 23

04:25 2.08 ft

10:43 6.42 ft

16:29 2.44 ft

23:02 7.37 ft

Sun 24

05:26 1.98 ft

11:45 6.48 ft

17:30 2.46 ft

23:59 7.49 ft

Mon 25

06:23 1.71 ft

12:42 6.74 ft

18:28 2.27 ft

JAN 28 Full Moon

SUNRISE JAN 1 JAN 31

6:01 am 6:06 am

Tue 26

00:52 7.75 ft

07:13 1.32 ft

13:32 7.15 ft

19:21 1.91 ft

Wed 27

01:40 8.10 ft

07:59 0.88 ft

14:18 7.63 ft

20:09 1.46 ft

Thu 28

02:25 8.48 ft

08:41 0.44 ft

14:59 8.14 ft

20:54 0.97 ft

Fri 29

03:09 8.82 ft

09:21 0.04 ft

15:39 8.62 ft

21:36 0.52 ft

Sat 30

03:50 9.08 ft

10:00 −0.26 ft

16:19 9.03 ft

22:19 0.16 ft

Sun 31

04:32 9.21 ft

10:39 −0.45 ft

16:59 9.33 ft

23:02 −0.06 ft

SUNSET JAN 1 JAN 31

HOWLER MAGAZINE

5:33 pm 5:47 pm

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SURF

COSTA RICA

CLICK HERE TO SEE MORE

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Noosa Heads, Queensland / Australia - February 26 2020: Surfer in the famous Noosa Festival of Surf. Photo by Nick_Polanszky HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 49

SURF

COSTA RICA

PAPAGAYO

SURF SCIENCE

by Ryan Waldron

WINDS

I T M U S T B E D R Y S E A S O N I N C O S TA R I C A

Originally published in February 2017

s I sit here writing this article in the middle of January, powerful gusts of wind rattle the windows of my apartment, and the sound of falling branches on the roof above my head gives me a quick jolt every 10 minutes or so. Must be summertime in Guanacaste. And of course, I wish I was surfing. The winds that sweep across the country between November and April in northern Guanacaste are known as the Papagayo winds. They can be quite impressive some days. Wind speeds have been recorded as high as 70 miles per hour, just shy of hurricane strength.

shore. These winds act like a finetoothed comb grooming the oncoming waves, holding the wave up longer and producing perfectly peeling tubes! Onshore winds are just the opposite. They blow from the ocean to the shore and are not ideal for surfing. Blowing in the same direction of the waves, onshore winds cause a wave to prematurely break while inhibiting the wave’s ability to barrel. HOW DOES IT HAPPEN? So what causes these impressive winds? Why does the wind turn onshore at 9 a.m. on some days, and other days howl offshore from sunrise to sundown?

As most surfers know, these winds can be the ultimate blessing when there is swell in the water. The Papagayos blow across the country from east to west, and are known as offshore winds on the Pacific coast. In the surfing world, there are only two wind directions that really matter: offshore and onshore.

To answer this question, we must remember that wind is nothing more than areas of high pressure flowing into areas of low pressure. Just as a river flows from high elevations to lower elevations, the air in a high-pressure system will “flow” downhill toward lower pressures.

Just as the name suggests, offshore winds are those that blow off the

Believe it or not, the Papagayo winds are a result of what is happening to our neighbors in the United States and

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VIDEO

Photo: Shaka Media

Canada. During the winter months in the Northern Hemisphere, cold fronts (high pressure) carrying frigid Canadian air drop across the United States and move out the warm air (low pressure). As the cold front (high pressure) dips over the Gulf of Mexico and the Caribbean, it looks for the easiest escape path towards the lower pressure over the Pacific. There are a few points along Mexico and Central America where the high pressure can escape. They include these three locations: Chivela Pass in Mexico, Lake Nicaragua in southern Nicaragua, and the Gaillard Cut in Panama where the Panama Canal is located. #s earchf indh owl

It was only yesterday that my mom called me from Virginia Beach saying that Winter Storm Helena had dumped about six inches of snow in the area. Helena originated as a strong cold front that intensified along the east coast and left some pretty significant amounts of the white stuff in her path. Helena intensified into a norâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;easter off the coast and sent a frigid northerly swell for exposed beaches. So what have we learned from this? Basically, the next time you see our neighbors to the north preparing for their next Arctic blast, you can start planning your next all-day offshore surf day on Costa Ricaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Pacific coast. HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 51

SURFIN G COSTA RICA

by Howler Staff

RIP CURRENT CAUTION K N OW H OW TO SAV E YO U R S E L F

VIDEO

SURF SAFETY

CLICK HERE

ip currents are the leading surf hazard for all beachgoers. They are particularly dangerous for weak or non-swimmers. Rip current speeds are typically one to two feet per second. However, speeds as high as eight feet per second have been measured — faster than an Olympic swimmer can sprint!

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Thus, rip currents can sweep even the strongest swimmer out to sea. More than 100 drownings due to rip currents occur every year in the United States. More than 80 percent of water rescues on surf beaches are due to rip currents.

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HOW TO IDENTIFY RIP CURRENTS Look for any of these clues: • A channel of churning, choppy water • An area having a notable difference in water color • A line of foam, seaweed or debris moving steadily seaward • A break in the incoming wave pattern

None, one or more of these clues may indicate the presence of rip currents. Rip currents are often not readily or easily identifiable to the average beachgoer. For your safety, be aware of this major surf zone hazard. Polarized sunglasses make it easier to see the signs of a rip current.

BE CAREFUL OUT THERE • Be cautious at all times, especially when swimming at unguarded beaches. If in doubt, don’t go out! • Whenever possible, swim at a lifeguard-protected beach. • Obey all instructions and orders from lifeguards. • If caught in a rip current, remain calm to conserve energy and think clearly. • Don’t fight the current. Swim

out of the current in a direction following the shoreline. When out of the current, swim towards shore. • If you are unable to swim out of the rip current, float or calmly tread water. When out of the current, swim towards shore. • If you are still unable to reach shore, draw attention to yourself. Face the shore, wave your arms and yell for help.

S AV I N G A L I F E Many people drown while trying to save someone else from a rip current. If you see someone in trouble: • Get help from a lifeguard. • If a lifeguard is not available, have someone call 911. • Throw the rip current victim something that floats and yell instructions on how to escape.

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SURF

COSTA RICA

SURF SPOT

Quick drops into long, fast barrels are the name of the game.

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WITCH’S by Howler Staff

ROCK

WORLD RENOWNED FOR EPIC TUBES

acked by the mystical rock formation known as “Roca Bruja,” or Witch’s Rock, this beautiful, secluded, world-class surf spot is legendary. Its epic tubes have been documented in such films as Endless Summer II, which showcased Witch’s Rock to the world. Since then, people from all over have come to enjoy the perfect barrels groomed by offshore winds most of the year. HOW TO GET THERE Getting to Witch’s Rock is half of the fun. It's either a short boat ride from Playas del Coco, a longer boat ride from Tamarindo, or a long 4x4 trek via Santa Rosa National Park. One advantage of taking a boat is the chance to surf some other really fun waves in the area. You will also get to experience Witch's Rock up close and personal as your boat can take you right up to the rock to snap some pictures. You can even climb up the rock and jump off! You can enjoy multiple surf sessions with breaks in between on the boat with your friends, sharing beers, food and good times in between surfing the perfect waves. With many different boat operators in the area, it's just a matter of asking around to find one. Typically the trip costs in the range of $300 to $400 for the boat. Split between four

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or five friends, it's an affordable way to get out on the ocean, surf great waves, and see the coastline. The other way to get into Witch’s Rock requires a 4x4 vehicle for a drive that takes three or four hours from Tamarindo. You need to bring in all your supplies (and bring them all out again). You access the road through Santa Rosa National Park about 30 minutes north of Liberia. There you need to pay the park entry fee and the camping fee if you plan to stay overnight. You may have your car searched before entering. They are looking for fishing gear, hunting equipment and perhaps even your ganja stash — so be warned. Also be aware that no animals are allowed in the park. From there, the drive takes around two hours, on one of the worst roads you will ever experience. Watch out for wildlife: deer, monkeys, and even wildcats can be seen in the park. During the rainy season, it’s recommended to call the national park in advance to check on road conditions, as the rivers can be so high that you can’t get through. Once you arrive at the campground parking lot, you can set up camp or get ready for the hike down the beach to surf.

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WHERE TO SURF The park campground is about a 30-minute walk from where the waves break towards the north end of the beach. Bring lots of sunscreen, water, some food, and whatever else you may need while surfing your brains out for hours on end. There are three main places to surf at Witch's Rock. The first spot you come to is nicknamed “El Burro” (The Donkey), a fast tubular wave that also breaks at lower tides. A combo swell will really light this place up. Quick drops into long, fast barrels are the name of the game. It can get heavy, so make sure your surfing is up to par with the quality of the waves. Otherwise, you may face brutal wipeouts, broken boards and lots of sand in places it doesn’t belong! The other breaks are found near the rivermouth. There’s the south side and the north side, each with its own peaks that break both left and right. This wave can vary from long, big barrels to mellower waves for turns and cutbacks depending on swell size, direction and tide. And of course, respect the locals — they include giant crocs that roam the lineup frequently! SURF TIMES It’s best to surf Witch’s Rock between midtides and high tides. However, if you are camping and really want to surf the low tide, you can do so at El Burro and the rivermouth depending on swell direction. LO C A L CO M PA N I E S There is nothing at Witch’s Rock, so bring all your supplies. Stock up in Tamarindo or Coco. Find a boat at Playas del Coco or ask around. There are many boat operators in the area. FOOD AND DRINK Bring your own. Most boats supply a simple lunch of sandwiches, fruit and drinks. However it’s a long day and most people choose to bring additional snack food and beer. 56 |#searchfindhowl| online

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All photos courtesy of Shaka Media #s earchf indh owl

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by Howler Staff

THE DETOUR

T UR N I N G T H E T I D E H OW LE R WRI T E R P U B L I S H E S B OOK A B OU T

L I FE-CH A NG ING PO S T-T S U NA MI T RE K

BOOKSHELF

ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT

e are pleased to announce the recent release of a book by one of Howler’s own periodic contributors, Ben Harris. (See the latest example in this e-magazine issue, Hope for the Humpbacks and More Endangered Whales. The Detour: Turning the Tide chronicles the author’s continentspanning adventure taking the long way home to England from Thailand, where one of the worst natural disasters in modern history had changed his life forever. In the wake

of that tsunami’s devastation on December 26, 2004, Harris embarked on a trek that ultimately took him through 11 countries over the course of eight months, unaided by a GPS, mobile phone or back-up plan. The book’s overview text invites readers to follow 19-year-old Ben “through the back door of China, across the forbidden plains of Tibet, meet the opium smugglers of Afghanistan and the traders in Iran … 16,000 miles later to the White Cliffs of Dover.” Those 16,000 miles are said to exclude the occasional detour or missed direction, all logged in his fascinating story. C H A N C E E N CO UN TE RS

‘Random encounters become critical junctures and you find yourself somewhere unfamiliar every day.’

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Book reviewer Tom Feiling, himself a published author (Short Walks in Bogotá), describes the relatable attributes of Harris’s writing. “What comes through most clearly is the sheer excitement of traveling in SE Asia when you’re young, and seeing so many amazing things for the first time. This is a great account of the traveler’s life, in which random encounters become critical junctures and you find yourself somewhere unfamiliar every day.” howlermag.com

Mules carrying goods through marijuana fields in Nepal lowlands

Ben Harris during his successful ascent of Thorong-La Pass in Nepal

Teenage monks on the rooftop of a monastery in Tibet drank tea with the author

River Ganges boat ride in India

If the Howler article byline Ben Harris sounds familiar, some readers may recall his articles dating back to 2017 on ecoconscious topics, notably protecting ocean life from illegal poachers and plastic pollution. All may be found online at howlermag.com Ben’s interest in ocean conservation has been informed and inspired by his diving career, in posts taking him all over the world, and in volunteer roles with the Sea Shepherd Conservation Society and Parley for the Oceans. But his adventurous spirit goes back much further to the days when he rejected the notion of a university education or traditional profession. The desire to “get on with life as soon as possible” found him leaving school at 16 to become a stuntman, then changing his mind and opting for diving instead. Meanwhile, the epic 2005 journey Harris writes about in The Detour: Turning the Tide reinforced for him that “happiness and contentment came from exploring new places and living free.” Read more about Ben on the Troop page of this e-magazine, where he is our Featured Contributor. Find out how to order The Detour: Turning the Tide by clicking this Barnes & Noble link. #s earchf indh owl

Photos courtesy of Ben Harris HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 59

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WINDOW TREATMENT HOME FURNISHINGS GYM, FITNESS, DANCE MUSIC BOOKSTORE CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES BEAUTY SUPPLIES & SPA ACCOUNTING

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ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT MUSICIAN SPOTLIGHT

When I see them singing, I know they love my music and that is the biggest thing for me.

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Playa Flamingo is where Fatiniza was inspired to write the song Hoy, a Latin GRAMMY 2020 contender. Photo: Paul German

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FATINIZA A WORLD-CLASS ACT by Terry Carlile

S HINING A G LO BA L S P OT L I G H T ON COS TA RI C A’ S M U S I C SC E N E

hen some friends said we were going to hear a great Latino singer at a local restaurant one night in 2019, my first thoughts were, “OK, we’ll see how great.” The featured entertainer, Fatiniza, was already singing when we arrived. Before we even got to our table, I was captivated by her zesty and energetic performance. I’m not a music critic, but I do recognize someone who can do far more than just sound good and put on a “show.”

MUSIC VIDEOS Hoy Out of Control The Mask The Sailor Aqui Voy #s earchf indh owl

For more than a decade, Colombianborn Fatiniza Gamarra has been capturing attention from ever-wider audiences across the world, from Costa Rica and the Mayan Riviera to Singapore and Dubai. Just reading about this vivacious stage and recording sensation will not do justice to her essence. Her passion as an artist comes across in the music videos she has produced. But it’s when you see her perform live behind the mic that you can truly appreciate this dynamo of a musician. The following are highlights of my recent interview with the wife, mother and full-time singer/songwriter. One of your songs was up for a Latin GRAMMY award in 2020. Tell us about that. My last single, Hoy, was entered into the Latin GRAMMY 2020 selection process as Best Song of the Year. Hoy is a song of hope and unity that I wrote at the beginning of the pandemic, when I started to get involved with charity organizations in the Flamingo area, delivering food and cleaning products to those in remote areas most affected. It was a great Latin Grammy nomination run, which exposed the song to all of the Americas but this time did not result in a nomination.

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So what was your response to this seemingly disappointing outcome? We were able to gain so much more attention with the media and expand our fan base. I see everything as building blocks on the journey to accomplish my goals: more Latin American fans and reaching more American fans in Houston, Chicago, Florida and California. I desire to build a quality fan base, not just quantity.

MUSICIAN SPOTLIGHT

ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT

When writing a song, how does it all begin?

Launch of Confusion

There is no consistency in how I start writing a song. They come when they want to. Sometimes I sit with my guitar, maybe just practicing and then something pops out. Other times I get a melody in my head and I have to stop everything and hum it into my phone and work on it later. I get inspiration from life events and other people and their relationships. My songs come from everywhere and usually with no intention; they just form themselves. What is your 2021 goal/mission? I am releasing at least four singles this year: Stay Here, Ojos Café, Apostándo and Hey. They are ready to go. I want to keep building a quality fan base. I’ll be expanding my exposure in Costa Rica first, by taking my music to them. This means getting on the road as soon as we can, which is exciting, and then to the rest of the Americas and beyond. I’ll continue to collaborate and create a music scene that allows people from all over to know there are talented artists in Costa Rica.

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Performing Double Decker

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How do you like to interact with other artists? I like to collaborate with local musicians. Working with those who may just be beginning to already accomplish some measure of success. It is a tough business and finding people who are sincerely loving this art form is essential to me. My goal is to create a music scene that is recognized as a ‘must-see’ while attracting people to Costa Rica. My last release in 2020 is with Stephanie Waltrip from Tamarindo. It’s about collaboration, not competition, for me. What wisdom would you offer that young Costa Rican who is thinking about singing? Just do it! Keep in mind that it is not only about singing; you are choosing a career. What’s your goal? Be an artist, want to be famous, want money? These things will lead you down different paths. Focus on what you want and don’t get led away from your goals by people who would bend you to their goals. Get guidance and surround yourself with good people. I am represented in Costa Rica by Studio ‘71, a new production company that wants to guide new talent and give them exposure and a platform to be heard. If this speaks directly to you, get in touch with Studio ’71!

FOLLOW FATINIZA ON SOCIAL MEDIA Instagram Facebook

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Performing live at Alpha Club Dubai Photos courtesy of Fatiniza #s earchf indh owl

Patreon Youtube Channel Fatiniza is available for corporate retreats, weddings, family reunions and other private events that are tailored to your audience. HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 65

FATINIZA

MUSICIAN SPOTLIGHT

ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT

NEW MUSIC VIDEO RELASE

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VIDEO

S TAY H E R E The video was filmed locally in Tamarindo and features Pro Surfer Tomas King. There is also a cameo appearance by surfing legend Robert August. The storyline follows a similar track to the pop culture surfing movie Point Break. I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t want to give too much away but I am sure that the surfing community and locals will love it. It is a ballad in English and Spanish.

Watch it first right here! howlermag.com

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PURA VIDA / LIVING CR

by Dr. Herbert Weinman

SAND FLEA BITES Knowledge the Best Protection

othing is worse than enjoying a beautiful Costa Rican sunset then waking up in the middle of the night with your legs red and itchy from the common sand flea. What are these little nuisances and what should you know about their bites?

DR. IS IN

Do not scratch the bites as it can increase the chances of infection.

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Contrary to its name, a sand flea belong to a small crustacean category that includes the mole crab, sand crab, sand mite, sand tick, sea cicada and sand fiddler. A tough exterior skeleton enables the sand flea to hold its appendages close to the body. This plays a very important part in its ability to move through tidal currents. Small in size, these crustaceans can range

between 0.5 inches and two inches in length. Bites are usually confined to the feet, ankles and legs, being closest to the ground, as sand fleas can only jump as high as eight to 15 inches. There are two types of sand flea bites or irritations. The first type isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t worrisome, but does cause an allergic reaction to the injection of saliva into your skin, appearing as a red welt. Those are the ones you wake up to at night, swearing off the sunset beach frolics. Swollen areas of the skin with black spots in the center are more cause for concern. This occurs when a female sand flea burrows into your skin and lays eggs. In this

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case, it’s best to seek medical attention to remove the eggs. by Lyssa Quallia

Treating sand flea bites is quite simple. First, do not scratch the bites as it can increase the chances of infection. Apply calamine lotion or hydrocortisone cream to control the itching. Baking soda mixed with water will give temporary relief. Soaking in an oatmeal bath will also reduce the itching. Aloe vera, which is great for all kinds of wounds, also has a soothing effect on sand flea bites. SIX WAYS TO PREVENT SAND FLEA BITES 1. Don’t go to the beach after it rains. Rain cools the air and causes the fleas to be very aggressive. 2. Avoid early or late hours. Before 10 or 11 a.m. and after 5 or 6 p.m. are favorite times for these fleas to come out and eat (bite!). 3. Avoid areas with seaweed. If you see lots of seaweed or sea plants washing up on shore, leave the area. This is prime feeding time for the fleas. 4. Cover yourself in repellent. Whenever there’s a chance of encountering sand fleas, apply repellent to your entire body and clothing. This will also ward off mosquitoes and other pests. Always re-apply repellent as often as possible. 5. Always bring a towel or blanket. A towel and/or blanket should be placed on the sand as a barrier between you and the fleas. A beach chair is even better. 6. Wear foot protection. Unlike dog or cat fleas, sand fleas do not jump high off the ground, and they can’t bite through clothing. Since your feet and ankles are most susceptible, protective footwear can go a long way in preventing these itchy and potentially infectious bites. #s earchf indh owl

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PURA VIDA / LIVING CR

TIMETO

by Laura Méndez

DECLUTTER O R DE R I N O U R HO M E RE STORE S HE ALTH AND ORDE R IN OUR L I F E

ne of the best things we can do at the end or beginning of each year, with the greatest positive impact in our health, is to declutter our home. Ideally, we make a plan and start from the easiest places to declutter, moving on from there one by one to the most challenging locations. My suggestion for this month is that you create time during your week to commit to this activity. Slowly you will not only notice a big change in the energy of your house but also in the harmony between family members. Household “toxins” may include:

WELLNESS

1. Objects you no longer use 2. Clothes that you don’t like,

haven’t worn for a long time or don’t fit 3. Ugly things 4. Things that are broken or cracked 5. Old letters, notes, stuffed animals and gifts from exes

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6. Dead or diseased plants 7. Old receipts, documents, newspapers

and magazines

8. Expired medicine / remedies 9. Old socks with holes or stains 10. Old underwear with holes or stains 11. Worn shoes 12. Gadgets of all kinds that call you to

the past 13. Old memories from weddings, baby showers, etc. 14. Photos of dead people 15. Ashes of a dead family member 16. Ceramic or glass ornaments that came as a pair; if one is damaged you get rid of both, otherwise it represents loneliness It is interesting to understand the energetic influence of clutter in our lives: • In the basement and roof, this stuff becomes an overload • At the entrance, it restricts the flow of life • Stacked on the floor, it pulls us down • Above us, it is our headaches • On the bed, it pollutes sleep • Spread around the house, it gorges on life, and represents an overload of emotions howlermag.com

Direct benefits of decluttering your house: • • • • • •

Health improves Creativity grows Relationships improve Greater capacity for reasoning Lightness in spirit and humor Abundance and fortune have a better flow into your life Questions to help me release old stuff

• Why am I keeping that? • Does it have to do with me today? • What will it feel like to release that? It is very important that during this process we can separate and clarify all the stuff so we can donate, sell, gift, recycle or definitely throw away. Consider that everything outside of us is a reflection of our inner state. However, we can work with the material world in order to bring order in our mind. Here are some other important considerations to maintain a harmonious house environment. • • • • • •

Avoid loud noises Avoid strong lights Avoid extreme colors Avoid chemical odors Avoid synthetic coatings Avoid anything that brings back sad memories • Complete unfinished projects • Cultivate positive energy in your home

It is interesting to understand the energetic influence of clutter in our lives. #s earchf indh owl

While you create order in your home, watch the movements happening in yourself. As we clean our physical home, we also put our minds and hearts in order! Don’t get attached to anything. If you start to detach yourself, a tremendous release of energy will happen within you. The energy that was involved in attachment to things now can bring new beginnings for a more harmonious life. Keep me posted on your wins! Connect with me on social media and tell me your story! HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 71

See all of Januaryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s publications:

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Full service Hotel, Restaurant and Event Center

seisplayashotel.com +506-2653-6818

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PURA VIDA / LIVING CR

by Mary Byerly

SEVA PART OF

YOGA TRADITION

CO MPAS S I ONATE S ERV I CE P UR I F I ES O UR H E ART

hat do I do with my free time? It’s something most people wonder occasionally, even the busiest and most fulfilled among us. And it’s just as true for many of us living here in Costa Rica, where there are always beautiful beaches to walk on, great waves to ride, and the abundance of nature to enjoy. There is also no shortage of options for learning and practising yoga!

YOGA WISDOM

In addition, however, the desire to be part of our local community calls out to many of us. It is actually a part of the yoga tradition as well. The concept of seva is considered as much a part of our practice as are the asanas, or postures. Seva comes from two root words of Sanskrit: saha (“with that”, and eva “too”). The word seva means “together with.” It describes actions that uplift us through an understanding of the needs of others, based on togetherness and integration. And that does not just mean coming into a community and deciding what is best for its members based on our opinions. Seva is an expression of compassion.

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PURIFYING EFFECT

The word seva means “together with.”

As many people experience it, the physical practice of yoga purifies the body. We initially find that the postures are difficult. Our bodies are stiff and our muscles need to build to be able to hold poses. Our mind goes through all kinds of thoughts — perhaps about the inane instructor or never wanting to come back to class again, or fear of not being as good as the person next to us. Yet over time, the body and mind adjust. There’s an understanding that quivering muscles and angry thoughts will arise and fall, and we are able to watch them come and go without getting attached to them. We learn to come more from our place of wisdom and compassion. It is the same with seva — providing compassionate service together with others. Initially, our bodies and minds may rebel at doing something a different way than we would normally, or in a different order, or with an unknown purpose. Yet over time, we begin to realize that working with others is purifying for our hearts. Along the way there’s a letting go of the desire to be recognized for our service, or letting go of wanting a certain result of the actions. Seva helps us to be there in the moment with others, within their world. It is being in a helpful presence that invites union, or yoga. For those of you who live here full-time, there are all kinds of local organizations that could use some seva … some of your service, your working together with them. It will bring you that much closer to the culture of Costa Rica, that pura vida that attracted you here. And it will make you feel transformed, just like a good yoga class.

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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 77

CR BIZ by Katy and Larry Benveniste Sponsored Content

Aloha to ¡Hola! Sponsored Content

F R O M

COUPL E TRADES ON E PA R A D I SE FO R A N OT H E R TO JOIN COLDW E L L BAN K E R TAMAR I N DO

FEATURED REAL ESTATE SERVICES

ecently arriving from Hawaii, we traded one tropical paradise for another, leaving Maui’s sunny beaches for the shimmering white sands and truly “endless summer” vibes of Tamarindo.

YO U R R E A L E S TAT E N E E D S

After spending three unforgettable weeks exploring Costa Rica a few years ago, we fell in love with the Gold Coast, from Playa Hermosa down to Playa Avellana. Warm and welcoming, the local and cosmopolitan mix of people we met here made us feel comfortable. We knew then that we would eventually make Tamarindo our home. Great people, great food, great weather, and an eco-friendly environment— what’s not to love? Monkeys, toucans and sloths, plus whales, turtles, and jaguars, round out our enchanting new world.

We listen to you and work hard to make sure you find just the right property to fulfill your dreams. Wherever the next phase of your life will take you, we are here to support and guide you. From modest condos to mansions on the beach, it is our privilege to introduce you to all of these great venues, helping you find a property to call your own. Mortgage and financing options are available for many properties through an affiliated U.S.-based lender.

Together, we provide the highest level of customer care. 78 |#searchfindhowl| online

As members of the highly successful Coldwell Banker Tamarindo sales team, we look forward to the opportunity to serve and assist you with your real estate needs.

Vacation rental opportunities abound here on our Gold Coast. These properties can be great investments, bringing income now and appreciation in the future. The bonus is that they can be wonderful family vacation venues, year-round, to escape from the winter cold or bask in the summer sun. If you are selling your property, it is our mission to obtain the very best price and terms, facilitating your transition howlermag.com

to your next adventure. Ask us for a complimentary Comparative Market Analysis (CMA) to confirm your property value, potential sale price, and estimated timeline for the process.

With over 30 years in his field, Larry, originally from Seattle, brings a wealth of sales and marketing experience in the automotive industry. Katy, from Los Gatos in California’s Silicon Valley, has over 30 years of real estate sales, leasing and vacation rental expertise. Together, we provide the highest level of customer care, dedicated to serving our clients with professionalism and attention to detail. We look forward to assisting you with a property purchase or sale. Contact us anytime, and come down and see us here on Costa Rica’s vibrant Gold Coast.

¡ Pura vida!

901138 _ TAMARINDO REALTY

Coldwell Banker Tamarindo Costa Rica Katy and Larry Benveniste, Sales Agents WhatsApp Cell +408-489-8694 | Office +506-2653 1919 Toll Free +1-877-272-3747 | TeamBenveniste@cbtamarindo.com Coldwellbankertamarindo.com

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CR BIZ

by Ivan Granados

COSTA RICA PROVIDES ADDITIONAL COVID-19 RELIEF MEASURES

Construction Sector and Vehicle Owners to Benefit

he Costa Rican government continues to adjust to the financial implications of COVID-19. The relief measures outlined below pertain to the construction sector and the annual vehicle registration tax, respectively. Information on other pandemicrelated tax modifications may be found in previous LegalEase articles at howlermag.com

LEGAL EASE

VALUE A D D ED TA X (VAT) MOD I F I C AT I ON I N CO N STR U C T I ON S EC TOR

for engineering, architecture, topography services and civil works construction when such services are provided to projects that are duly registered before the Costa Rican Engineers and Architects Association (CFIA). The law does not exempt the construction sector from the VAT indefinitely, but provides tax rate reductions for the applicable services over the following time periods:

To help reactivate construction activity, due to the national and worldwide decrease in construction, the law N. 9887 was published on September 16, 2020 in the official newspaper “La Gaceta” N. 230.

1. September 16, 2020 to August 31, 2021 (inclusive) — fully exempt from the VAT 2. September 1, 2021 to August 31, 2022 (inclusive) — reduced rate of 4% VAT 3. September 1, 2022 to August 31, 2023 (inclusive) — reduced rate of 8% VAT 4. September 1, 2023 forward — the standard rate of 13% VAT

Law 9887 adds a new transitory V bis to law N. 9635, on Strengthening of Public Finance, to Promote Economic Reactivation, and its reforms. It establishes reduced rates

If you operate a business within the construction sector and would like further details or guidance on this helpful VAT modification, we are at your service at info@gmattorneyscr.com

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The objective is to reduce the amount payable for the annual motor vehicle circulation tax in 2021.

2 0 21 MARCH AMO (A N N UA L C IRC ULATION TAX FOR A MOTO R VE H ICLE) On October 29, 2020, the Legislative Assembly approved Law #9911, â&#x20AC;&#x153;Law for the Relief of Payment of the Annual Circulation Tax for a Vehicle Tax 2021.â&#x20AC;? This was published in the official newspaper La Gaceta on October 30, 2020. This law adds an IV transitory to Law #7088, Tax Adjustment and Resolution Law 18 A. The objective is for the Ministry of Finance to reduce the amount payable for the annual motor vehicle circulation tax in 2021. The reduction in tax will be applied as follows: 50% reduction a. Private vehicles with a tax value of up to 7 million colones b. Lightweight vehicles with a tax value up to 15 million colones c. Vehicles in the heavy load, vans, buses, tourism, agricultural machinery, rental cars and public services categories #s earchf indh owl

25% reduction Private vehicles with a tax value between 7 million colones and 10 million colones 15% reduction Private vehicles with a tax value between 10 million colones and 15 million colones Additionally, motorcycles with a tax value under 1 million colones will be exempt from the Added Value Tax (IVA). No reduction will be applied to the following, which are subject to 100% of the annual circulation tax for a motor vehicle: a. Ships and aircrafts b. Private and light weight vehicles with a tax value of over 15 million colones c. Vehicles of senior officials of the Public Administration If you own a vehicle and would like further details or guidance on this helpful reduction in the 2021 Marchamo, we are at your service at info@gmattorneyscr.com HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 81

CR BIZ

by Joanna Blanco

RISE UP WITH BEST FOOT FORWARD

2021 We are Ready!

appy new year to all of you! I wish you an abundance of wisdom, peace, happiness, love and money!

ENTREPRENEUR CR

Let’s start off the year by collecting some of the best practices covered in previous Howler articles. This will help us create a 2021 action plan that can be effective and positive for our business and personal life. FIRST AND FOREMOST BEST PRACTICE — MIND YOUR BRAIN We must begin by taking care of the most crucial organ in our body to stay balanced and focused. Let me suggest some approaches that can help boost your precious brain power. 1. Food • Drinking coffee can have a positive effect on your cognitive level because

it is rich in antioxidants. • If you have a sweet tooth, go for dark chocolate. Its antiinflammatory and antioxidant effects can also enhance your cognitive performance. • More than half of the brain is made of fat. You may have heard about the benefits of Omega-3 fatty acids in preventing neurodegeneration. Add to your shopping list flax seeds, chia seeds, walnuts, salmon and sardines, among others. Go for some nuts and green tea! 2. Physical activity • Get yourself moving. Cardiovascular exercises can help maintain your brain’s efficiency. When you do cardio, your blood flows faster to all your body parts, including your brain. You receive more oxygen, which plays a primary role in the brain’s function. • Dancing can improve brain optimization since coordination keeps it working. • Although sleep means your body is less active, your brain needs these relaxation hours to improve cognitive levels and memory. 3. Daily routines

Changing a part of your routine from time to time is a great way to awaken your brain.

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• Maintain a routine, as organization keeps your brain awake. It means that you are following actions correctly and that your memory is working. • Fun fact: changing a part of your routine from time to time is a great way to awaken your brain. • Letting your mind wander increases creativity and problem-solving. 4. Meditation and mindfulness Both of these two practices can give your mind a break, detox, and rest. The brain creates several substances necessary to function correctly. Meditation or mindfulness practice howlermag.com

can provide the short time needed to regulate itself and continue working properly. Just 10 minutes of meditation twice a day can make a difference. 5. Others — all important • Hydrate: a body without water can make your mind distracted and unfocused — another good reason to stay hydrated. • Laugh: it is linked with good mental health. • Handwriting. Don’t use your smartphone and apps all the time for your to-do lists. • Sudokus and crosswords: keep your brain active, learning and focused. • Aprende Español en Costa Rica: Learning a second language helps preserve the integrity of your brain and creates more cells. SECOND BEST PRACTICE — TIME MANAGEMENT Be smart about this one. Following these key actions will help time be on your side. 1. Keep your focus Keep your objectives clear. Your business must have a vision and mission; stick with these and your business will stay healthier and more prosperous. Start with the easier one or the one that motivates you the most. 2. Activate your goals Every objective needs an action plan. To take advantage of your available time, you need a plan. Having a schedule helps you map out your day, your week and your month. It gives you the big picture of where you allocate time for your business and for yourself. 3. Break into steps Every action has steps. These are the pieces of the giant puzzle — your objective. Each step should not only specify how you will accomplish an action, but also when. 4. Set priorities To manage your time efficiently, you need to create and follow a MUST-DO list. As I advise my coaching clients, make a list of the most important things you need to do today, this week and this month. Ask yourself what could make your plan fail if you don’t take care of it? Remember to start one step at a time. Incorporating one new habit per week will help you strive and feel healthy and more vital in your health and business. Contact me anytime for free consultations: joannablanco@vivesattva.com and follow me on Instagram @Movimiento Sattva. #s earchf indh owl

Have a 2021 pura vida!

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Costa Rica Howler Magazine - January 2021

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Costa Rica Howler Magazine - January 2021