The Howler
Volume 16, No. 6 Issue No. 177
TAMARINDO COSTA RICA www.howlermag.com THE HOWLER Ced. Juridica: 3-101-331333
FEATURES
Publisher, editor and production David Mills
8 Dining Out
dmills@racsa.co.cr Tel: 2-653-0545
The vulgar Australian-themed restaurant has gone; in its place El Oasis, a nice restaurant serving a good variety of Tico dishes.
CONTRIBUTORS
Openings, closings, parties, music. The Gold Coast has it all, and barhoppin’ David is in the groove.
14 Around Town
ELLEN ZOE GOLDEN TONY OREZ TOM PEIFER JEFFREY WHITLOW
JEANNE CALLAHAN JESSE BISHOP MARY BYERLY CYNTHIA CHARPENTIER
Deadline for July: June 15 Howler advertising
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15 Surf Report
In the Copa “OFF” tournament in Santa Teresa, Luis Vindas made certain to win his second National Championship.
16 From Ice to Fire
A Swiss cyclist continues his epic trip from Alaska to Tierra del Fuego in this 5-part series. This month he travels through Mexico.
23 Dangerous Curves Ahead
In the face of evidence to the contrary from many experts, politicians insist that exponential growth is possible and desirable.
26 Surviving Costa Rica
Driving from the United States to Costa Rica involves the crossing of many borders. Some are easy; others are not.
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Discounts For 6 months, paid in advance, one month is deducted. For 12 months, paid in advance, two months are deducted. Ads must be submitted on CD or e-mail attachment, JPG or PDF format at 266 dpi, at the appropriate size (above).
DEPARTMENTS 5 Doctor’s Orders
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10 CD Review
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11 Book Review
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20 Fitness Training
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22 Yoga
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All comments, articles and advertising in this publication are the opinion of their authors, and do not reflect the opinion of Howler Management.
www.tamarindobeach.net
www.tamarindohomepage.com
Cover Caption: Sunset Cruise - Marlin del Rey at Tamarindo Cover design and photo: David Mills
Doctor’s Orders Jeffrey Whitlow, M.D.
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eople who suffer from high blood pressure, or hypertension, are doomed to spend the rest of their lives on medication that can be expensive, and that has significant side effects, such as fatigue, impotence, and the risk of liver or kidney damage. When I was in private practice, I didn’t hesitate to put my patients on one, two, or even three medications to lower and control their blood pressure. I never thought to discuss their diets with them, other than to recommend that they reduce their sodium intake, being that the conventional wisdom was/is that high blood pressure is somehow linked to a high sodium intake. My research into the field of nutrition has taught me differently, as I now have a much better understanding of the effects of our diets on our health. A diet replete with flour, sugar, and processed foods leads to an overabundance of acid, which damages the blood vessels and leads directly to high blood pressure. Our blood vessels are an especially intricate device, constructed to be strong and pliant, as they are subjected to tremendous pressures when our heart pumps our blood through them. An excess of acid makes them lose their elasticity and become hard and brittle. This can lead directly to an increase in blood pressure, and also increases the risk of heart attacks and strokes, two of the big three killers (along with cancer). An adequate intake of Vitamin C is an essential co-factor in the formation and maintenance of “epithelial” structures, or structures that form surfaces in our body. A surface is something like our outer skin, or the linings and outer covers of our vessels and organs. People have the misconception that our skin is just a cover, or the lining of the blood vessels is an inert lining, like the inside of a pipe. In fact, the inner lining of the blood vessels is an amazing structure. It is capable of regulating the movement of the white blood cells from their normal home in the bone marrow out into the circulation and into the areas where they are needed, such as an infected area, or into the digestive system when we eat a meal and need extra protein to digest our food. A lack of Vitamin C contributes to the brittleness caused by chronic body acidity. The vitamin is also crucial in maintaining the integrity of the inner lining of the blood vessels. In other words, if the lining of the blood vessel is damaged in any way, Vitamin C is a critical co-factor in the repair of that damage. If the damage is not repaired adequately, then a substance forms called “plaque”, composed of undigested or poorly digested fat. Plaque attaches to the damaged area. If enough plaque forms, the vessel can eventually become blocked and any organ or structure beyond that point will be starved of oxygen and become damaged. Plaque formation and the subsequent blockage of the blood vessels is the essential causative factor of the heart attacks, strokes, and kidney failure that are the most common complications of hypertension. So persons who suffer from high blood pressure must increase their intake of Vitamin C. Studies by Linus Pauling and others have shown that an intake of 500 mg to 1g will have a dramatic effect in lowering the incidence of high blood pressure, heart attacks, and strokes. Also, the person must eliminate flour, sugar, and processed artificial foods from their diet, and use a digestive enzyme supplement to aid the process of assimilating the cooked foods that we usually consume into our system. When we don’t use a supplement, we are not able to adequately digest fats and cholesterol, and they end up clogging our arteries and veins.
T
amarindo residents are fighting against the erection of a 60-meter cellular telephone tower in the centre of a residential community in the town. The company, Claro-Sirtel, has shown a total disinterest in community concerns, using lies and obfuscation to avoid a meeting with residents led by Gabriela Valenzuela. Claro’s mottos are “estamos para servile” and “nuestra prioridad es usted”. May I suggest that we boycott totally any services offered by this company?
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Costa Rican astronaut Franklin Chang was used as an example of inspiration to migrant Mexicans by US president Barack Obama, in a speech on immigration and frontier security in Texas.
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No eclipses this month; not even this year! The partial solar eclipse of June 1, and the total lunar eclipse of June 15, are not visible in Costa Rica. Nor are the July 1 partial solar eclipse, the November 25 partial solar eclipse and the total lunar eclipse of December 10. Maybe next year... The summer solstice occurs at 12:16 on June 21.
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More and more, Costa Rica is becoming a favourite destination for medical and dental tourism and, with an excellent selection of such services available in and around Liberia, that brings many tourists to the Gold Coast.
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Every year at Semana Santa and Christmas we are invaded by Ticos from the cities who come to enjoy a fine week at the beach. And every year we hear the same moans from the merchants: “They don’t spend any money here; they bring all their food and drinks with them.” Well, so would I, if I were coming to Tamarindo, because the prices here are a rip-off. Example: a large (700 g) loaf of integral in Huacas is ¢1,245; a mediano (530g) of the same bread in Tamarindo is ¢1,300. Just one example – there are many more. How do our supermarkets justify these excessive prices?
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At Expotur, President Laura Chinchilla authorized the construction of a $30 million convention center in Heredia, to be completed in 2014. Tourism Minister Allan Flores declared the tourism slump to be over and promised a new era of tourism.
Dining Out David Mills
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hat was once really tacky and expensive, a hokey restaurant with a phony Australian theme, has changed to a comfortable restaurant serving regular meals at reasonable prices. El Oasis, formerly Outback Jack’s, has a normal Tico menu – no broiled kangaroo, baked dingo or roadkill wallaby, no crummy rustic signs – but a good selection of appetizing dishes. El Oasis is right on the beach in Brasilito, overlooking Playa Conchal with beautiful views and spectacular sunsets. It is now operated by Shelley Martin, who also owns the Hotel Brasilito where the restaurant is located. “We serve Tico food,” says Shelley, “at very affordable prices. No more arroz con camarones for 12 dollars. This is good food.” Confronted by a wide range of appetizing dishes we decided to get a mix and share them. From an appetizer menu featuring chips with salsa; cheese quesadilla; ceviche with plantains; chili fries; onion rings we tried patacones with beans and cheese; onion rings; and a tuna salad. A sandwich menu includes a vegetarian with cheese and avocado; BLT; grilled cheese; tuna melt; grilled chicken with cheese. One soup dish is chili con carne. From main dishes – grilled chicken; paradise burger with a wide choice of ingredients; chili cheese burger; fish of the day; breaded fried chicken breasts - we chose fish tacos, beer-battered fish fingers and cabbage in a white sauce picante; and shrimp with rice. All of our selections were tasty and sufficient, all-in-all a delicious varied meal at a very good price. El Oasis is in Hotel Brasilito, on the beach just meters away from Brasilito plaza. Tel: 2654-5463, all credit cards accepted except Amex; open daily from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m.
Robert August Surf ‘n’ Turf
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ave the Date!! The 12th Annual Robert August “Surf ‘n’ Turf” Charity Challenge is back once again and we would like to send you a special invitation to join us June 30 - July 3, 2011!! One hundred percent of this tournament’s profits are donated to CEPIA, to help the children of the shelter in Santa Cruz, to improve schools, to organize sports and educational activities for the children of public schools in this area, to prevent teenagers participating in gangs, violence or robberies, and to offer psychology services to the child victims. This year’s event format will stay the same as before: shotgun start, four-man scramble golf tournament and best-of-four surf contest. The best score from each team of Golf and Surf is calculated together at the end of the charity challenge for the best overall score and bragging rights of Surf ‘n’ Turf Champs! Below is the official event scheduled and we are happy to announce that the Tamarindo Diria Hotel will be the official host to our Annual Event. The Diria is offering a discount on lodging for “Surf ‘n’ Turf” participants, friends and family. SCHEDULE OF EVENTS • June 30 at 7:00 p.m. - Registration Cocktail Party – Tamarindo Diria Hotel • July 1, check-in 10:30 a.m. - Surf Contest – Playa Avellanas 6:30 p.m. - Benefit Party @ Nibbana (dinner, silent auction) • July 2, 7:30 a.m. - Golf Tournament – Hacienda Pinilla lunch provided 7:00 p.m. - Benefit Dinner @ Koi Sushi (raffle) and Party @ Aqua Discotheque • July 3, 1:15 p.m. - Marlin del Rey Sunset Cruise Benefit 7:00 p.m. - Benefit Party (dinner, live band), Awards CeremonyTamarindo Diria Hotel Any questions regarding the “Surf n Turf” or marketing inquiries please contact: Sandrine at 2653.8533/2653.8365 Cell: 8881.2134 or cepiadirector@racsa.co.cr. or Sarah Long Robert August Surf Co. Costa Rica CR 011-(506) 8623-8294 US (714) 856-3123
Special this Month! $1.90 per square meter
CD Review Romulo Castro unveils his Heritage
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lthough he was born in Mexico, Romulo Castro’s parents are Panamanian and he was raised in Cuba. He “came home” to Panama in the late ‘70s but his collage of musical tastes had already been firmly put into place, both in his ears and in his soul. That multi-cultural embrace comes across strongly in his album “Herencia”, which he recorded with his nine-piece band, Tuira. The CD is a blend of bossa nova, samba, rock and Panamanian folkloric music, all with a pronounced Caribbean backbone. His band is composed of guitars and bass, keyboards and horns and an array of indigenous percussion. If this sounds like a potpourri, it is, but it is also anything but garbled. “Herencia” is Castro’s fourth CD and the twelve selections arrive like individual entrées rather than a mixed stew. At times the music is reminiscent of the style of Guillermo Anderson from Honduras, and that is a good thing. Like Anderson, Romulo has a sweet voice that is complimented by the musical styles which he interweaves around it. The band members are an interesting cultural mix as well. Keyboardist and arranger Luis Thomas has worked with an array of artists from Ruben Blades to Air Supply. Percussionist Tony Martinez has also worked with Blades and with Sting. Kansas transplant Marco Linares plays guitar and adds background vocals, while Cuban transplant Wichy Lopez is a horn master, playing trumpet, flugelhorn, flute and sea conchas. A veteran of half a dozen Panama bands, Germain “Sparks” Dawson handles the heavy bass. Dino Nugent is the musical director and arranger. He is Panamanian, trained in Brazil, and adds keyboards on a few songs, too. Reynaldo Cruz and Guillermo Franco play a small army of percussion instruments. It’s an extensive entourage and each player brings his own flavor to the mix. Castro is meticulous in his work: his first album, “Amor a Medias” was released in 2001, his second, “Travesias” in 2003 and his third, “Palabra de Cantada” in 2006. He spent about two years in preproduction for “Herencia”, writing songs and assembling the band, scouting recording studios and labels, graphic artists and the like. A total of about forty persons were used in the entire production of the disc. Standout songs on the album include “Amor en el Tiempo de Colera”, an airy, Caribbean sound with a Gabriel Garcia Marquez title. Que romantico! I also like “Estoy en el Puertomarte Sin Hilda”, with its slick, swingy, big band sound, and “Otra Canción de Amor”, a straight-ahead rocker... All the songs were written by Romulo. It was produced and recorded in Panama, mastered in Puerto Rico and distributed on Castro’s own independent label, Naranja Studios. The album has an impressive list of guest artists, no less than twelve horn players and eight percussionists, giving the final product an overall full sound. The disc is available at Jaime Peligro book store in Playa Tamarindo, where they will gladly play the music for their customers.
Book Review Keith Richards’ Life Tony Orez
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n his new autobiography, simply titled “Life”, we get to see two concurrent versions of the Rolling Stones guitarist’s life: his and the part written by his co-author James Fox. The narratives feel like they were transcribed verbatim from taped conversations with Keith and the balance appears to have been researched and polished by James. I like the mix. I know Richards is a musician, not an author. I like hearing some of the personal parts in his running monologue, in his “voice”, and other stretches delivered like a bio. And there are definitely two Keith Richards: the legend and the person. I like the book a lot, taken with a grain of salt: it is Keith’s version of what transpired and his “junkie logic” continually comes into play. His first mention of the drug in the book is a casual, “at that time, I had been using heroin for a year or two”. I’ve had friends become heroin addicts, so it is familiar but always astonishing to me. Keith was never addicted, for example, but on a maintenance program. He never used drugs to get high, only to “balance things” and keep his artistic energies fueled. So, when he was nodding out in the recording studio, guitar strapped on and tapes rolling, he wasn’t stoned, right? I did particularly like his memories of creating songs like “Satisfaction” and “Brown Sugar” and how he evolved his own unique sound by using only five strings on the guitar and tuning it to an open chord. That may be a little too detailed technically for the casual reader, but for a music nerd like me, it is fascinating. And it was also interesting to hear his own take on whether he stole Anita from Brian or rescued her, what his take on Bianca was and how the schism between him and Mick began and what made it grow. He seems to be diplomatic talking about Mick, giving him kudos when Jagger deserves it and then slamming him anytime he feels like it. He is also very respectful of Stones’ drummer Charlie Watts, who he refers to as “the bed that I lie on”. I was surprised that the legendary “Rock & Roll Circus” did not even get a mention in Keith Richards’ autobiography, since it was his idea. I thought it was interesting that the first three quarters of the autobiography was dedicated to the first half of Keith’s life and the final quarter covers the second half of his life, as if he got boring when he aged and stopped using heroin, which he refers to as “the most seductive bitch in the world”. Or did he? The contradictions are rife throughout the story: he’s always clean and always holding. But, hey, it’s only Rock & Roll, right? And these memoirs are full of them, from bathtubs full of champagne and parties at the Playboy mansion, to groupies in every city everywhere and some pretty cool late night jam sessions among rock luminaries. And Keith was there then and miraculously is here now to tell us all the stories; as he remembers them, of course.
Romerito’s New Sports Bar All the sports games! Romerito’s has opened at Garden Plaza with a heavily sports-oriented restaurant, several big plasma screens and one huge one. The many sports channels available give you a great selection of your favorite games. Each table has its own decorated sports theme – futbol, tennis, cycling, baseball, football – and there is a plethora of team logos and photos around the walls to complete the atmosphere. And there is food – burgers, tacos, wings and a wide variety of comfort dishes - at very reasonable prices, and a long bar serving the usual beverages. Oh, and did I mention the full-size pool table? Romerito’s is dedicated to giving a good time out to both the sports enthusiast, and anyone looking for a meal that doesn’t break the budget. There is enough space for your biggest party. Located in Garden Plaza across from Automercado, Romerito’s is your new Sports Bar in Tamarindo. For information, drop in and talk to Guillermo or call 2653-2368 or 2369. See ad at left.
Falafel is open in front of Lazy Wave in Tamarindo, serving great falafel and shwarmas with spicy sauces in a pita bread pocket. A whole meal in each one and very delicious.
Alcoholics Anonymous Schedule of Meetings
Flamingo
Tuesdays: 5:30 - 6:30 pm (open) Fridays: 5:30 - 6:30 pm (open)
Location: Hitching Post Plaza Unit 2, Brasilito Contact: Don H. at 2-654-4902
Tamarindo
Saturday: 10:30-11:30 - Open General Meeting Monday: 5:30 Open Meeting Thursday: 6:30-7:30 - Open Meeting Location: Behind Restaurant La Caracola Contact: Ellen - 2-653-0897
Asociacion Integral del Desarrollo Playa Tamarindo will hold a general meeting June 11 at 3 p.m. in the conference room at Tamarindo Diria. El Oasis is open at Hotel Brasilito. See Dining Out on page 8. Sports injuries, back pain and physical therapy can be treated by “Back in Balance” in Huacas, next to Fofi Liquor Store. See ad page 25. The 12th Annual Robert August Surf ‘n’ Turf Tournament takes place June 30 to July 3. See page 9 for details. For all your sports games on big plasma screens, plus tasty bar meals at good prices, visit Romerito’s Sports Bar in Garden Plaza, opposite AutoMercado. See ad on page 12.
www.howlermag.com
Surf Report Story: Ellen Zoe Golden
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t seemed like smooth sailing for Luis Vindas of Jacó, as he breezed through the Copa OFF! in Santa Teresa. And with that win, he cemented his second consecutive Costa Rica surf championship. Vindas earned the win in Santa Teresa with the highest wave of the contest, a 9.77. Without the pressure of close competitor Jair Pérez, who was competing in the States, Vindas locked in his second crown by topping off this contest. He did it by making it three Circuitos he has won this year—this one, Playa Jacó and Palo Seco—and second place in Nosara. The final in Copa OFF! pitted Vindas against rising young talent and local Santa Teresa boy Anthony Fillingim who managed to put together a combination of 11.40 which was enough for second place. Tamarindo’s Isaac Vega returned to the finals and third pace with 11.30 while Ramón Taliani of Malpais managed 7.97 for fourth place Vindas had the highest level of this race, even with what seemed like a low production of waves during the final. He spent fifteen minutes of the final waiting. Ultimately, he took off on a left that may have been the best wave of the season. His score came to 16.60, the highest combination of the Copa Off!
The following are the champions so far: Open: Luis Vindas (Jacó). Women’s: To Be Determined Junior: Anthony Fillingim (Santa Teresa). Junior Women’s: Jordan Hundley (USA). Boys: To Be Determined Grommet: Bruno Carvalho (Jacó). Grommet Girls: To Be Determined. Minigrommet: To Be Determined. Minigrommet Girls Leilani McGonagle. The next date of the Circuito Nacional de Surf Oceans by DayStar 2011, called La Gran Final Oceans by DayStar, will be June 10, 11, 12 in Playa Hermosa de Jacó. There will also be a Tag Team contest as well as the finals of the Circuito Metropolitano.
Results of the Copa OFF! Santa Teresa • April 30, May 10, 2011
“I feel very happy because this is the result of the effort that I put in this year. I always worried that I have good boards, was focused and I gave the best of me. I knew that this year was going to be even more difficult because the level of the Juniors was so very high but I was going to defend the title,” said Vindas.
Open 1. Luis Vindas 2. Anthony Fillingim 3. Isaac Vega 4. Ramón Taliani
16.70 11.40 11.30 7.97
Grommet (Under 14) 1. Bruno Carvalho 2.Leonardo Calvo 3. León G Williams 4. Kevin Montiel
With back-to-back championships, Vindas ties the legendary surfers who have accomplished this feat. Alvaro Solano of Jacó did it. So did Gilbert Brown of Puerto Viejo.
Women’s 1. Lisbeth Vindas 2. Erika Valverde 3. Jordan Hundley 4. Yessenia Alfaro
11.17 6.73 5.69 5.26
Grommet Girls (Under 15) 1. Selene Moberly 9.00 2. Leilani McGonagle 3. Arisha Grioti 4. Cloe Velarde
Junior 1. Anthony Fillingim 2. Noe Mar McGonagle 3. Alberto Muñoz 4. Jordan Hernández
13.70 12.93 12.76 9.27
Minigrommet (Under 12) 1. Dean Vande Walle 2. Sean Forester 3. Aldo Chirinos 4. Malakai Martinez
Junior Women’s 1. Jordan Hundley 2. Leilani McGonagle 3. Emily Gussoni 4. Maia Velarde
10.30 8.43 5.46 5.10
Minigrommet Girls (Under 12) 1. Leilani McGonagle 15.00 2. Emily Gussoni 9.27 3. Cloe Velarde 4.63 4. Paula Duarte 2.70
Boys (Under 16) 1. Noe Mar McGonagle 2. Bruno Carvalho 3. Jason Mora 4. Kevin Montiel
14.66 9.30 6.07 6.00
Longboard 1. Anthony Flores 2. Cristian Santamaría 3. Ariel Gonzales 4. Pedro Cruz
In the extremely interesting Women’s race, Lisbeth Vindas (Jacó) has come roaring back into the race after being virtually invisible last month. She won Copa OFF! relegating rankings leader Jordan Hundley (USA) to 3rd place. Nataly Bernold of Jacó, usually Vindas’ and Hundley’s closest competitor, didn’t make the finals. It went down like this in the finals: Lisbeth hurried to run her two best waves. Later, Hundley fell into a defensive trap, committing interference against Lisbeth, and was penalized sufficient points to fall down the scale. Lisbeth combined for 11.17, against the 6.73 of Erika Valverde of Dominical, and Hundley’s 5.69. Yessenia Alfaro of Nosara was 4th with 5.26. If Lisbeth is to get her eighth national Women’s surf championship title, she must win the Gran Finals in Playa Hermosa. But, Jordan could take it all with a second place showing. “I could return to win. I want now to do it again, and I know that I can. Everything is determined in Playa Hermosa,” said Lisbeth. With all the good results in the Circuito up to this point, six of the ten categories have already determined the national champions for Circuito Nacional de Surf Oceans by DayStar 2011.
12.73 10.84 10.83 0.00
8.47 5.40 5.27 11.50 10.26 10.00 9.33
11.03 10.93 8.43 6.87
With the goal to stay or to surpass the tenth position already secured in the 2009 World Surfing Games, the Federación de Surf de Costa Rica has (continued page 19
From Ice
Epic story of a bicycle ride from
Last month we followed Chris and Reto as they cycled from Alaska to San Diego on their recumbent bicycles, via Canada, Oregon, and California. This month they enter Mexico at Tijuana and continue to the Guatemalan border.
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rossing the border from San Diego to Tijuana for us was serious culture shock: We were used to riding our bikes through a prospering and clean infrastructure with nice houses within fresh air. Now we were suddenly faced with a town showing the exact opposite: garbage in the streets, shabby houses, kids begging for money and always a smell of the sewage in the nose. Passing the border was a real confusion; to our surprise the local very friendly people helped us to find our way. This we can truly say about almost all the Mexican people: they are very lovely and kind. Tijuana for us was a lovely stay with friends Mirella and Alejandro who offered us all we needed. The Baja’s character is greatly different to US California. It is still a wild desert and the main road leads to a series of small and mostly cute villages. We enjoyed cactus groves in wild mountains, rock formations and volcanoes in coloured brush, a scenery of wide valleys, blue sky, silence but sometimes strong wind. At night when we camped we were in the midst of the lovely sound of crickets under a sky full of stars and shooting stars. On the other hand we saw more stinking carcasses and landfills along the road than on all the tour before. We were aware that we had to be cautious at night. Either we ran out into the sticks off the highway to camp so that nobody could see us, or if not possible we looked for a cheap hotel. On one occasion, in San Quintín, we had an uncomfortable experience. We found a shabby hotel with an inner courtyard when it was still daytime, even bargained down the price and were satisfied to have reached the day’s goal when we observed that there were women going in and out to other rooms several times with different men. That night we blocked the door with a chair as we had not got a key and slept in our sleeping bags. Coming closer to La Paz we had the first of several battles with dogs on the road. Mostly a loud yelling was sufficient to frighten them, but this time we had to beat around strongly to defend ourselves. It’s a pity, but to deal hard with dogs is a necessity when you ride the Panamerican Highway. The same day I got even hit by a can of beer somebody threw at me from a passing truck while riding my recumbent. Well, the day ended with sleeping under a bridge and stays in my memory as one of the ugliest of the trip but would never break my desire to continue.
to Fire
Alaska to Tierra del Fuego Story: Christoph Mueller Edited: David Mills Crossing by ferry from La Paz to Mazatlan we were totally fascinated to enter a green countryside after the weeks in the desert. A tough climb led us first to tropical jungle then to pine forest in the higher areas. Although the uphill was hard we enjoyed it totally. The forests were wild and untouched and the valleys in the top resembled even a canyon. Like always we chatted with locals along the road, celebrating Friday by sharing a beer. Several times we were asked if we would like to get marihuana. The last time I asked the guy where they grew it since we know that the Sierra Madre Occidental is one of the main areas where it is planted. The man explained that they grow it all over the mountains, everywhere a little, so that it cannot be seen by an airplane, and finished with joking: ”Mexico has got three treasures: Ora, plata y mota” which means “gold, silver and weed.” We saw tons of soldiers in that region but we never saw a strike. Although we sensed what was going on here, it was suspiciously calm. Eastwards of the Sierra Madre Occidental the countryside is much dryer and the altitude stays around 2,000m which, in the first days, always made us a bit tired. The reason why we have chosen to ride this way are the Spanish colonial towns that were always built beside mines. Especially Zacatecas and Guanajuato were picturesque with their impressive historic centers and history itself: In Guanajuato we visited the granary, a testimony of the way of independence. Here in 1810, Hidalgo, a Spanish descendant, set fire to the building killing a lot of people. This was one of the initial revolts for independence 300 years after Spanish colonialism had begun. A year after he and his crew were caught they were sentenced with capital punishment and their heads were hung at each of the building’s corners. Today the building is a museum for the country’s history and you can still see where they hung the heads. Finally, we made our way to Guadalajara. Reto’s tour finished here and I waited for Matt’s return from his Christmas visit home. Here I was invited to spend Christmas with the family Villaseñor whom I love a lot, and so many of their lovely relatives; at Christmas we even participated in three parties the same evening. I liked the Mexican way of partying, it is a lot more animated than I was used to in Switzerland. I will never forget when I was asked to beat the traditional piñata in which candies are hidden. Here a girl played a joke on me: when I smashed it there were not only sweets inside but also flour that covered me from top to bottom so that I looked like a snowman.
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(from page 17)
From Ice
After Matt returned from his Christmas holidays and my friends from Switzerland had arrived all of us were looking forward very much to setting out for Southern Mexico. Moving from Jalisco to Michoagan was a weird experience: the last night before we left Jalisco we asked a family if we could camp in their backyard and felt totally safe. The ambience in the village Ocotlan was nice. The very opposite we noticed in Michoagan. 10,000 clicks! Although the countryside was greener here, the people in the small towns were very reserved towards foreigners. We first didn’t understand what was the matter but just saw fear in their faces. When we finally found a place to sleep inside of a locked property and got into a conversation I asked about the local drug cartel’s activity. The husband did not want to talk about the matter but the wife openly talked about protection money extortion and ways of public intimidation like shaving a woman’s head or stitching up a young man’s mouth for criticising publicly. That night an eerie ambience lay all over that village. Dogs were continuously barking, roosters were crying all night and constantly there was noise by humans. All of us could hardly close an eye that night. The morning after everything seemed to be OK, no signs of trouble. In Mexico it was always necessary first to learn to evaluate the state of security. We decided to stay rather with local people instead of going in cheap hotels. Having become more open for this kind of lodging we experienced multiple nice encounters with generous Mexican people who opened their doors, offered a bed, served food, gave opportunity for showering, for internet and so on. We will never forget the words: “Mi casa es tu casa” which means “My house is your house.”
Casagua Horses The greatest variety of tours and riding experiences for all ages, featuring spectacular countryside, howler monkeys, colorful small towns and fun-filled fiestas. Cantina Tour - Nature Tour Fiesta & Tope Rental - Old Tempate Trail Tour Located near Portegolpe on the main road, opposite the Monkey Park, just 20 minutes from the beach.
Phone us at: 2-653-8041 • kaydodge@racsa.co.cr www.paintedponyguestranch.com The best horses on Guanacaste’s Gold Coast!
My first flat
We knew that the distance between San Cristobal de las Casas and Palenque would require a lot of attention. Here cyclists had been robbed in the last years. The area is territory of the Zapatista movement, an indigenous movement to improve their rights.
This area I will never forget as it is the beginning of the jungle which is impressive for somebody who is not used to it: On every tree there are multiple other plants, especially orchids, furthermore all the flowers with their colours, the banana groves, the coffee and cacao beans laying on the ground along the road for drying outside of simple indigenous huts with kids playing and often yelling “gringo” in a friendly way while passing them. (continued next page)
to Fire
Surf Report (from previous page)
When we finally reached the junction to Agua Azul we came across two entrance fee stations: the zapatistas’ and the government’s, which is weird, but everything seemed to be quiet. We even had a conversation with the Zapatista representatives. The next day, while we were enjoying the little paradise, we were told by locals that there was a civil dispute taking place between the Zapatistas and the great land owner of the area about the right to take an entrance fee. Nobody could leave nor enter the village as trees had been cut and were blocking the road. In addition the electricity was turned off. Being warned we moved with precaution and could even observe the inhabitants armed with sticks with nails and machetes. The situation turned worse. Tension was in the air although the locals always assured “No pasa nada”, which means ‘nothing will happen’. The morning after, though, we were told by locals that we should be flown out of the area by the government, because the dispute had escalated. Somebody had been killed and several injured no further away than about one kilometre. What an opportunity to fly a part of the Panamerican Highway by helicopter. Trusting a police officer we had to leave our bikes back with all the many people around which I didn’t really like, but they were flown out with a second chopper. I enjoyed the flight very much as we could see the blue rivers, the jungle, the cloudy hills and the little villages in the bush with a perfect view from above. Palenque was our goal where we were received by the first journalists for our version of the dispute. Then we were asked to visit the government in Tuxtla, Gutierrez, where we were brought by a government’s luxury jet. Again a lot of journalists were waiting and the government provided for everything we needed. After we had given the police report about what we had seen and not seen ;-) we were accommodated in a five-star hotel from where we visited the nearby canyon the next day. The day after an old plane brought us back to Palenque. We got messed up a lot by this unplanned detour and were so happy to be finally back on the road again. The road to Guatemala.
Next month: Chris and Matt continue their tour in Guatemala, El Salvador and Nicaragua, arriving in Costa Rica and Tamarindo.
(from page 15) selected the Costa Rica National Junior Surf Team that will represent the country in the Quiksilver International Surfing Association (ISA) World Junior Surf Championship (WJSC) 2011 when it competes May 21-29 in Punta Hermosa, Peru. In addition, professional surfer and trainer—and former national surf champion, Diego Naranjo, will take the reins as Technical Director of this delegation. The Costa Rica National Junior Surf Team is: Juniors (Under 18) Carlos Muñoz (Esterillos); Anthony Fillingim (Santa Teresa); Jordan Hernández (Puerto Viejo); Alberto Muñoz (Esterillos) - Substitute: Bruno Carvalho (Jacó) Boys (Under 16) Noe Mar McGonagle (Pavones); Tomas King (Tamarindo); Manuel Mesén (Jacó); Giancarlo Méndez (Jacó) - Substitute: Bruno Carvalho Girls (Under 18) Leilani McGonagle (Pavones); Paula Duarte (Jacó); Emily Gussoni (Jacó); Arisha Grioti (Santa Teresa) For those who follow this type of thing, you will notice that the average age is younger than normal, due to the fact that the average age in the female division is twelve. According to Naranjo, this will be a rite of passage for these girls, a beginning of a generation of feminine competitive surfers that Costa Rica didn’t have in the past except perhaps Nataly Bernold who came up in the Circuito System (you might be thinking of Lisbeth Vindas, but she never competed in the WJSC). Bernold is not competing in this contest because of health reasons. She soon turns 18 and will not be eligible any longer for the World Junior Surfing Games. “Our reality is that in Girls we have a hole after Nataly when she turns eighteen. The girls that are coming strong are eleven and twelve, and that is why with them we are going to begin a process that in three or four years will make important things happen,” said Naranjo. Diego noted, on the other hand that, in spite of the age, the team on the whole has strong points that are more solid that the last delegation of Under 18s that went to Ecuador in 2009. In the Junior category, they will go with a very good level with many expectations. Carlos Muñoz and Anthony Fillingim carry a lot of weight in the Circuito rankings and should do well. In the Boys, Noe Mar McGonagle is prepared for an international contest, thanks to the training he has put in at the Circuito. And, he just won the Quiksilver King of the Groms contest, which was tough and carries a lot of clout. For most of this team, it will be the first time they will run waves in cold water. It will be interesting to see how this young international team does. Stay tuned.
That’s all I’ve got. Looking forward to hearing what you think. Keep those emails coming at EllenZoe@aol.com. Send your comments, information, errors or praise, because I can’t do this column without you, the real surfers. Crossing to Guatemala
Fitness Training Pre-surf Stretching
W
hy looking silly on the beach might just keep you in the line-up longer
I know the feeling – you’ve been landlocked for days, weeks, maybe even months (I hope not that long) and you finally reach the ocean. The last thing you want to do is spend precious water time on the beach getting loose. But it is those few minutes stretching on the beach that will enable you to surf better and return to the ocean more frequently. I know stretching is not very exciting or fun and it’s not very cool– but trust me, doing it will keep you in the water and off the sidelines – and there’s nothing silly about that!
A
GEPSA and PwC
n important alliance was recently celebrated between the Guanacaste-based company GEPSA, and the international firm PwC (PricewaterhouseCoopers). Last month Monica and Aloys Riascos, founding partners of GEPSA, and Antonio Grijalba, Lourdes Alfaro and Luis Barahona from PwC celebrated this union with representatives of Gold Coast’s private business and regional institutions, hosting a cocktail party and product presentation at Liberia’s Hilton Garden Inn Hotel. This partnership enables GEPSA, a company that offers consulting services in Human Resources, Hospitality, Finances and Administration, to give Gold Coast businesses an improved response to their needs. PwC is an international consulting firm represented in 39 countries, offering services in Risk Administration, Information Technology, and Environmental Sustainability, to name a few.
You want to focus on dynamic stretching, keeping the movements active, as opposed to static stretching - holding the movement at the end position (think of a bent-over hamstring stretch as an example of a static stretch). While static stretching can help improve flexibility and increase your range of motion, it’s not what you want prior to surfing. There actually have been studies that show static stretching prior to competition can be detrimental to performance. The objective of your pre-surf stretching should be to circulate blood flow to your muscles and activate your neuromuscular system – the connection between muscles and your nervous system that allows for movement. Make sure you keep the movements active and limit the time at the end range of the movements. Arm circles are a great example of a dynamic stretch. A basic lunge with a twist is a great surf-specific dynamic stretch. Or harness your inner yogi and perform a few sun salutations. Whatever you’re feeling on that particular day, just as long as you spend a few minutes getting loose. Get out there, stay active and healthy and let me know with any feedback! Nick Holt is the owner/founder of Nick Holt Fitness, a full service personal training outfit specializing in surf fitness and general well-being. Nick offers surf-inspired yoga classes, beach boot classes and one-on-one training - contact Nick Holt for more information. ncholt7@gmail.com or 8748-0126
WHAT ARE WE DOING COSTA RICA? Cynthia Osborne Charpentier
Trash from Companies Everybody is looking to live in Costa Rica. I see articles about how wonderful and friendly this country is. Thirty percent of properties are National Parks. Look at these properties, bla, bla, bla. Everywhere I look the parks are clean, beaches, streets are better. Everybody learns about cleaning our country. Costa Rica is very good about ecology, and we have parks and clean beaches, calling them a “blue flag”, and we protect the animals. For many years, throwing trash in the street was the accepted way of getting rid of it. If you were riding in a car throwing it out the window helped to keep the car clean. The same thing if you were on a school or local bus. So littering was a way of life, and nobody thought much about. I used to throw trash on the ground; now I get mad at people who do that to our country. In the past ten years or so most of that has changed. Costa Rica has become eco-conscious. People are being educated about littering. There are many trash cans around and most people are using them. The national parks are kept clean, and the beaches are awarded a blue flag for staying litter-free and pristine. But the problem we have is from Electricity Company (ICE), Water Company (AyA), Cable Tica, Amnet. They install new lines, but they leave trash around. Cables, wires, PVC tubes, yellow warning tape, all over the place they work and the streets. What about taxes, about garbage? Starts when they replace old cables, to use new cables and they leave the old ones on the ground, instead of picking them up, so there is garbage where they work. So the complaint is about the garbage, not for the companies. They also leave all their personal trash – lunch wrappings, empty bottles, etc. But those companies don’t care, they just leave the trash. And most ticos are eco-friendly, they pick up everywhere around the beaches, parks, etc. So come on service companies, join the rest of Costa Rica by keeping our country clean and eco-friendly. Join us into the Twenty-first Century.
Now Begins the Study of Yoga Back Care - Part II Back pain can be debilitating. It is estimated that 80% of us will experience some kind of back pain in our lifetime. Last month we began with four poses to help bring length and space into your spine when you are experiencing pain or tightness in your low back. This month, we continue with three more poses to bring some gentle movement and opening into those muscles. Remember that these poses are intended for when you simply have some pain and stiffness. If you have a diagnosed, serious back problem (such as a herniated disc, etc.), do make sure that you are working with your health practitioners to assure what you are doing is safe for your condition.
Traction Twist Lie on your back, bend your knees, and place your feet on the floor slightly wider than your hips. Take your right (R) foot about 6” farther to the right (or just off your yoga mat) and also 6” farther towards the end of your mat (away from your torso). Move your arms out to the side into a “T” position, palms facing up. Inhale, and on your exhale lower your legs to the left and sweep your R arm overhead. Your R knee should be in line with your nose. Reach up through your R arm, down through your R knee. Stay for 10 breaths and switch sides. Cat & Dog Come onto hands and knees, hands directly under your shoulders and knees under your hips. On an exhale, draw your belly button up, arch your spine, and tuck your pelvis under while your lower your head (cat). On your inhale, lift your head,drop the front of your pelvis, draw your spine and belly button towards the ground (dog).
Repeat this five to ten more times using nice slow and deep breaths. Become aware of where in your spine you may feel any restrictions. Then try to breathe into that area, imagining you are bringing more breath there to help “open” whatever is tight. Legs up the Wall (Viparita Karani) This is one of my all time favorites! This pose helps my low back to relax when tight, and is also great for calming the nervous system, particularly if you are having trouble sleeping. Sit with one of your hips right against a wall, then allow you torso to gently lower to the floor as you swing your legs up the wall. If you have tight hamstrings, let your pelvis be a bit away from the wall. If you can, bring your pelvis fairly close to the wall. If it feels more comfortable, place a small blanket underneath your head. Allow your legs to relax down into the hip socket, and feel your low back release down. Stay here for 5-10 minutes, with your eyes closed. This is a great time to simply allow your whole body and mind to rest. Namaste
Mary Byerly is one of the owners and the yoga teacher at Panacea. An oasis of tranquility and health 10 minutes from Tamarindo. Discover Paradise and Bring a Peace Home www.panaceacr.com • 2653-8515
Dangerous Curves Ahead Tom Peifer
Anybody who believes exponential growth can go on forever in a finite world is either a madman or an economist. - Kenneth Boulding
E
ven though the above words were penned almost 20 years ago, nobody seems to really have taken note.
Exhibit A: In a recent issue of La Nación, side-by-side articles in the Opinion section by prominent economists analyze and propose roadmaps to encountering the holy grail of mainstream economic theory—maintaining exponential growth. The reasons of course are numerous, and have been repeated so often as to constitute a sort of subliminal meme in most of our minds: more growth equals more jobs equals more prosperity equals more happiness. Without going into all the demonstrable fallacies in the above formulation, let’s take a look at what happens when economists and financial experts take the heretical step of looking beyond their ledgers and spreadsheets to question the sacred precept of economic growth. (Explanatory note for the mathematically challenged: ‘exponential growth’ simply means that some quantity, humans on the globe, yeast in a petri dish, condos in Tamarindo or, in our present example, the economy, increases by a given percentage in a given time frame. Plotted out on a graph, the curve usually sweeps up and to the right.) Here’s where the residents of Tamarindo, like the yeast in a petri dish, are way smarter than the average economics Ph. D. At some point it becomes obvious that you’re going to run out of room. Other consequences become apparent as well of course: quality of life; quantity of water; ‘by-products of metabolism’ accumulating in the environment. The upward curve of growth may sweep politicians into power but it doesn’t necessarily sweep the streets, keep the sewage out of the water or contemplate the scenery over longer frames of time. I repeat, it is very interesting when econ guys step ‘out of the box’ and take a long hard look at where their ‘prime directive’ has us—like the yeast in a petri dish— all headed. Tullett Prebon, a British company, is one of the largest inter-dealer money brokers in the world, brokering an underlying value exceeding US$55 trillion annually. Understandably, they try to stay on top of trends and have a whole research department dedicated to discerning the way the winds are blowing so as to better navigate the tempestuous nature of international markets. A recent report states in bold: “The greatest shortcoming of the human race is its inability to understand the exponential function.”
Try to bear in mind; this outfit is not an anti-business, eco-warrior bunch of tree-huggers in disguise. They’re moving $55 trillion annually. I guarantee you, at some rung up the ladder of trillions, you get serious. According to the report, the most serious deficiency in modern economics—and the politicians who follow their advice—is the lack of understanding that “economics is ultimately an energy equation,” and that we’re well past the day of expanding available energy to support continued exponential growth. The next on our list of financial heretics is Jeremy Grantham, the Chief Investment Officer of GMO Capital, with over $106 billion in assets under management. Since he’s managing other people’s money, Mr. Grantham wants to be able to convey to his investors a sense of what to expect in the future. In the case of the article I read, he focused on the outlook for prices of commodities, like steel, copper, corn, soy and wheat. After a mind-numbing exercise in statistical analysis, he concludes that we are in the midst of “one of the giant inflection points in economic history,” a shocking rise in the prices of basic commodities—such as food—and that most of us, even the ‘experts’ in fact, have no clue as to the bind we’re in. He recounts a fascinating exercise with an audience of financial wizards who were completely unable to give a ‘ballpark’ estimate of sustained growth over time. Using as an example the 3,000-year history of Ancient Egypt, highly trained mathematicians were completely off the mark by many orders of magnitude. And the rest of us? Forget it. Grantham asserts that humans have evolved a fantastic set of skills to, for example, navigate through the complex, fluid maze of urban traffic with multi-ton vehicles, but are conditioned by evolution to be overly optimistic, focused on the present and short term survival. Currently, he finds the species Homo sapiens “frozenin-the-headlights ... right now, in the face of the distant locomotive quite rapidly approaching.” For a better understanding of just how humans evolved the ingrained behavioral traits that complicate the task of collectively ‘stepping out of the headlights’, I read yet another veteran of the finance industry. Nate Hagens, formerly a hedge fund manager on Wall Street and an investment manager at the firms Salomon Brothers and Lehman Brothers, takes a deep look at “the psychological roots of resource overconsumption.” From the evolutionary need to seek status and novelty, to the neural pathways and chemical dependencies—dopamine, for instance— that literally get us ‘hooked on shopping,’ Nate’s chapter in (continued page 28)
by Jeanne Callahan
October F orecasts June F orecasts
Aries: 21 March - 20 April
The main focus for you this month is on increasing financial and professional gain. There is help available if you align yourself with powerful people, those who are experts in their field. If in a partnership, you may experience some stagnation or unwillingness to compromise until after the middle of June when the energy opens up for productive change. Best days are the 23rd and 24th.
Taurus: 21 April - 21 May
Visit Jeanne’s site at CelestialAdvisor.com
Libra: 23 September - 23 October
Saturn will go direct this month in your sign, relieving you of some burden and directing the action towards resolution and forward motion again. Travel may be on your mind, and if you can manage even a short trip to a foreign country you would find the experience very fulfilling. If in a partnership, there’s still some chaos or a possible separation on the horizon--seems never-ending doesn’t it as Uranus moves slowly. Enjoy some relief on the 9th, 10th and 11th.
With three planets in your sign now, you have a lot of possibilities for attracting abundance. State what you want in clear terms so you are not disappointed—it’s OK to be a little selfish now. Don’t worry so much as you have some protection around you with Jupiter entering Taurus on the 5th. If looking for love, you may find it this month as Mars and Venus dance through your sign. The 25th, 26th and 27th are your lucky days
Scorpio: 24 October - 22 November
Good month for you as your ruling planet, Mercury, is in Gemini along with the Sun now. Later in the month Venus and Mars also join the party. There is some unfinished business regarding relationships that needs to be understood and completed. Saturn will be in direct motion after the 13th, helping you stabilize the relationships you want to keep. If something leaves before then, let it. The 1st, 2nd, 28th and 29th are your most positive days.
This is a creative time for you and should also bring in new business opportunities and partnership. Work-related activities get lots of attention and you’ll be attracted to someone you meet in those surroundings. You may attract someone older who may offer to help or mentor you. Take advantage of the opportunity. The 14th and 15th are your best days
Gemini: 22 May - 21 June
Cancer: 22 June - 22 July
Situations surrounding your business relationships and profession improve this month as you are released from some longstanding burden. If you have a pending lawsuit, it is time to settle it after the 13th. This is a good time to plan some time off at the end of the month for a well-deserved break. A vacation by the ocean seems in order, doesn’t it? Good days to rejuvenate are the 3rd, 4th and 30th.
Leo: 23 July - 23 August
The vibe for you favors partnerships and expansion as Jupiter enters your solar seventh house. You may find new people entering your life with different propositions and ideas for you. If you are looking for love, someone may show up soon or within the next year for romance. With planets also advancing on your mid-heaven, expect some new activities to excite and inspire you. The 12th and 13th bring good fortune.
Sagittarius: 23 November - 21 December
Capricorn: 22 December - 21 January
This is a good month to have some fun! If you are single you could find yourself attracting romance and love. Your ruling planet, Saturn, goes direct on the 13th giving you some relief from a worrisome condition so you have the energy to devote elsewhere. It’s an excellent time to revise your health regime and improve your vitality. Capricorns tend to get stiff and a bit dried-out now and then. Use the positive energy of the 16th and 17th to rejuvenate your system.
Aquarius: 22 January - 19 February
The lion is ready to roar this month as you have something you want to publicly announce or promote. Leos love to be in the spotlight and with Jupiter prominent at the top of your solar chart you can garner attention and praise. Don’t waste the opportunity, though Jupiter will be here for a year, helping you establish new territory. Best days to bring it on are the 5th and 6th.
This month brings some extra energy to your fourth house of home, ancestors and real estate. Possibly some kind of celebration is in order now and there may be many comings and goings in the neighborhood. If you have children, one of them may need some kind of treatment as there are indications a situation that needs correction. Money issues improve after the 13th. The 18th and 19th are days when your agenda goes as you like it.
With three planets in your solar house of foreign countries, higher education and philosophy, you might consider getting more education or taking a trip to another country this summer. Money matters sort themselves out after the 13th when Saturn goes direct in your second house of assets. Ideas come to you from everywhere so write it all down. And have some fun, too. The 7th and 8th are fortunate for you.
With several planets transiting your third house you may find you have lots of contact with your siblings and/or neighbors this month. With Saturn going direct in your eighth house there are issues with taxes, insurance, or unearned income that are resolved now. Simplify your circumstances but remain aware of what your true responsibilities are. This would also be a good month to entertain. The 20th, 21st, and 22nd would be excellent choices for that!
Virgo: 24 August - 22 September
Pisces: 20 February - 20 March
Namasté
Parents’ Corner Role Models
B
y definition, a role model is “someone who other individuals aspire to be like, either in the present or in the future”, and since we learn more from observing others than from books and lectures, role models play a major role in the shaping of our attitudes, habits and thoughts. Children choose role models for themselves as early as the preschool years, and the type of role model they choose depends very much on their developmental level. Role models are vital in the healthy development of children’s emotional maturity and cultural understanding. Having strong role models gives children a sense of security and belonging, and helps them find their own identity. Teenagers, in particular, need positive role models as they are starting to experiment their first existential concerns - thinking about their future, and questioning the purpose of life. Ideally, they will find adults to look up to who have accomplished a sense of fulfillment in life, beyond material success. What makes a good role model? A good role model is someone who teaches by action, not just words... he “walks the talk”. He is also someone who lives his life based on ethical values he has internalized and embraced. Good role models don’t have to be rich, or famous, or especially talented... but they accept and respect themselves and others, appreciating life as the most important gift. Parents are the first and most powerful role models for children and teenagers. Parents who stay engaged in their kid’s life, keeping an open communication and modeling a balanced life style provide their sons and daughters with a path to follow. Kids look up to parents who are consistent in their life choices, and who demonstrate a sense of direction and meaning regarding life in general. Parents who are strong role models have high expectations of their children and encourage them to face problems and overcome them, instead of taking problems out of their way. Many parents are concerned about the role of media as a model for our kid’s behavior. Even though the concern is justified (TV, in particular, has a major effect on what our kids perceive as acceptable and desirable) this effect decreases and becomes irrelevant in children who have been exposed to positive and strong role models throughout their development. This is also true when facing peer pressure; children who have been modeled consistent behavior and integrity, and who are able to discuss at home the risks they have to face, are simply better prepared to make smart choices. “The most important single influence in the life of a person is another person ... who is worthy of emulation.” - Paul D. Shafer
Msc. Mónica Riascos Henríquez Psicóloga – Psicopedagoga Tel. 83589550 consultariascos@live.com
Surviving
C hapter XI
M
COSTA RICA
y first encounter with the Peñas Blancas border was actually from the northern end coming in from Nicaragua. Susan and I had convoyed down from Texas with another car full of friends and we’d already had a few too many strange crossings. Once we got out of Mexico, by far the longest leg of the journey, we found that crossing into the next few countries were major events. We’d be pulling up to the border of, say, El Salvador or Honduras, and we’d see a cloud of dust coming towards us as dozens of locals would vie for the opportunity of helping us through the customs and immigration procedures required to cross into the next country, anticipating a fee for the service. Sometimes we’d pull into the crossing draped with people on our cars all clamoring to be the one. People just didn’t do the drive down south and someone showing up at the border was a major event. We also found out that the border police in Honduras were extremely unpleasant and would usually find some extra fees in order to get out of their clutches. Getting to the Nicaraguan/Costa Rican border and the end of the 2,200-mile journey was a big relief as it seemed much more controlled and easier to deal with. We paid the fee for bringing in a car, which was theoretically insurance, which we could renew once, after which you had to either get the car out of the country or nationalize it, which meant basically paying for the car again with the proceeds going to the government. Our plan was to sell the car for an exorbitant amount of money and return to the States by air, which didn’t quite work out as it needed to have the taxes paid first. We basically sold it for what it might have been worth up north with the buyer planning to pay the taxes on it.
Border Stories
Which she did - but neglected getting the car’s info removed from the aduana’s (customs) computer. We found this out the next year when, once again, we drove down in another vehicle. When we tried to get that one through the border it turned out we couldn’t as the computer showed we had already brought one in and we were limited to one and we would have to return to Nicaragua. Needless to say this put a rather large crimp in our plans so we asked the head customs guy, the one with all the gold chains, if there was some other way to get the vehicle in. Oddly enough he came up with a solution involving the transfer of American dollars into his custody after which the vehicle was transferred to my wife’s name and we were allowed into the country, the only problem being I couldn’t drive it. All this was later taken care of by a lawyer so I was back to being street legal. As the years went by we found ourselves living here more and more, thus necessitating us to leave Costa Rica for what we thought was the obligatory three days to renew our visas. The three-day requirement falls into one of the biggest misunderstandings of the extranjero presence here. No one really knows if this law actually exists and, as you know, some people cross over and come back the next day, others stay for less than 72 hours and others don’t leave at all, taking their chances on being caught and deported, a statistically low probability. My wife and I are less willing to tempt fate and we soon began a quarterly routine of driving our car to Liberia and catching one of the bus lines to either San Juan Del Sur, Granada and, on one occasion, Managua, after which we enjoy a forced vacation. The bus driver takes care of all the passport stuff on the Nicaraguan side which we’d just as soon not have to deal with and, of this writing, we still
Story by Jesse Bishop
seem to be able to get back into Costa Rica with a minimum of hassle. On one such trip we ran into a fellow who told of his story of losing his passport in Nicaragua. He said he just got in the line of people constantly moving between the two borders and bluffed his way back in with no one bothering to challenge him. Pretty gutsy if you ask me. On another occasion, and just once, the Costa Rican Drug constabulary brought a drug-sniffing dog onto our bus which was filled with the most unlikely looking group of potential smugglers imaginable. We were told to cross our arms on our shoulders and not make eye contact with the dog, which seemed to be having the time of his life sniffing everyone’s crotch. On a recent visa trip we decided to go with friends who had a somewhat different approach to the trip. They drove their car to the border and parked it in a safe haven, after which we walked across the borders with our luggage into the hands of an aggressive group of facilitators who proceeded to carry our luggage and showed us where to stand in line in an extremely overcrowded building where we’d get our passports stamped. One of our group of four got in line with the passports and waited for about forty minutes. When he finally got to fourth in line the lady behind the window closed it down as it was time for her lunch break so it was back to another line. We then proceeded to find a taxi, all the while assisted by our guide who was still figuring out ways to relieve us of a little more money. Our return trip involved pretty much the same process in reverse all the while being asked for more and more gratuity. Each to his own, our friends were pretty content with their technique for crossing the border while Susan and I decided to stick with the bus.
Local Heroes
S
o many people in the area are working hard to improve the lives of others, particularly of local children. Here are a few recent examples:
Little El Llanito elementary school now has a new, upgraded kitchen, very important to the school for obvious reasons. The design work and at least some of the labor and materials were donated. An electrician who works on projects with architect Xyanna Bateau and developer Ted Alexander has a sister-in-law who works at the school, so he was aware that the school desperately needed a new kitchen that was clean and safe and functional. He also knew the school didn’t have money (what school does?), so he asked Xyanna and Ted if they would assist in designing and building a new kitchen. They were happy to help, and things flowed forward from there. The annual Mardi Gras Parade, held in Flamingo, raised over $10,000 for local charities. Playa Potrero’s AbriendoMentes received $2,200 for repairs and renovations to Potrero’s public school. A spokesperson for AbriendoMentes said: “We work closely with the public elementary school in Potrero in order to help with their needs... We would like to provide a lasting contribution to the school, in the form of needed repairs and renovations to the school building”. Some of the repairs they cited were: extermination of termites, roof repair, and screening of the open side wall. Sadly, this school needs a lot more than a touch-up paint job.
An organization called “Little Feet Soccer”, whose aim is to provide a soccer ball to every child, is working with Skullcandy, a large global organization, to build a synthetic soccer field in Huacas. Local businessmen Terry Anderson, Rex Barnes and Russell Wenrich, working to a very tight schedule, donated time, workers and materials to get the field finished on time. Ferreterias Comaco, Arpe and Cemex provided materials at discounted prices. Nonetheless, Terry went severely over budget, and would like to receive donations to help complete the project. Tel: 2653-0962 or 8855-6945.
Dangerous Curves Ahead (from page 23)
the book Fleeing Vesuvius, is a must for anyone who wishes to promote more enlightened policies on resource use or just has an urge to simplify their own lives. In the other version of the real world, of course, money is closely wedded to political power. As Bill Clinton noted, “You can’t get elected by promising people less.”
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Nor can you get elected by stepping on the toes of those who finance your election. In the US, the recent Supreme Court decision that allows corporations to put money directly into political campaigns has already borne fruit. One needs to look no further than the positions of “Tea Party” congressmen in support of recent bills which the financial industry is pushing for.
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Year-to-date 2011: 3.5 cm 2009: 0.0
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And who financed the Tea Party, you now, that “grass roots” movement? The oil and energy billionaire Koch brothers, who team with Exxon to finance climate change denial. Their next move, endowing university professorships in an effort to make sure that their brand of economics gets propagated from the ivory towers and ivy-covered walls of American academia. The take-home message: Don’t expect miracles. The exponential growth that has often been the norm of the past may well be a nostalgic memory, ‘the good old days’, within our lifetimes. Distrust politicians who deliver the time-worn platitudes about growth without proposing policies to deal with the downside. And beware of mainstream economics. As one observer noted, “Economists are like computers. They need to have facts punched into them.” Who knows, maybe they’ll wise up sooner rather than later. As anybody who lives in the Southeastern US can tell you, Mother Nature packs one hell of a punch. Tom Peifer is an ecological land use consultant with 16 years experience in Guanacaste. Phone: 2658-8018. peifer@racsa. co.cr
J u n e ( a l l
t i m e s
2 0 1 1 l o c a l )
Sun
El Centro Verde is dedicated to sustainable land use, permaculture and development. www.elcentroverde.org
1st - rise 5:21; set 6:02 15th - rise 5:22; set 6:07 30th - rise 5:26; set 6:09
New: First quarter: Full: Last quarter:
Moon 1st 8th 15th 23rd
Inspired Insults 3:03 p.m. 8:11 p.m. 2:14 p.m. 5:48 a.m.
“He has all the virtues I dislike and none of the vices I admire.” Winston Churchill
Word puzzle Miscellany
All words from the list below can be found in the word block on the right. Answers may be forward, backward, upwards, downwards and diagonal. animal anteanoche antiquated artist bienvenida business caballista cathedral charismatic ciudadano collaboration consequential constelacion contaminacion emotion
encantado everyday handwritten inadequate intermingle pantheon paradisiac scientist seguridad semilla sentimentality surreptitious torrential totalmente turtle
1W New Moon 2T
3F
4S
5S
02:25 08:15 14:32 20:48 03:06 08:56 15:13 21:27 03:46 09:38 15:54 22:07 04:26 10:20 16:35 22:47 05:07 11:04 17:18 23:28
7.8 1.4 8.7 0.5 8.1 1.2 8.9 0.3 8.3 1.0 9.0 0.1 8.5 0.9 9.0 0.1 8.6 0.8 8.8 0.2
6M
05:50 11:50 18:04
8.7 11S 0.8 8.7
7T
00:12 06:36 12:39 18:53 00:59 07:25 13:32 19:46 01:50 08:19 14:30 20:44 02:46 09:16 15:31 21:47
0.3 8.8 0.9 8.4 0.5 8.8 0.9 8.2 0.7 8.8 1.0 8.0 0.9 8.8 1.0 7.8
8W 1st Qtr 9T
10F
12S
13M
14T
15W Full Moon
JUNE TIDE CHART
03:46 10:17 16:35 22:51 04:48 11:18 17:38 23:54 05:51 12:18 18:38
1.0 16T 8.9 0.9 7.9 1.0 17F 9.1 0.6 8.1 0.9 18S 9.3 0.3
00:55 06:52 13:15 19:34 01:52 07:49 14:09 20:27
8.4 19S 0.8 9.5 0.0 8.7 20M 0.6 9.6 -0.2
02:45 08:43 15:00 21:17 03:35 09:35 15:50 22:04 04:24 10:24 16:37 22:49 05:11 11:12 17:24 23:34 05:56 11:59 18:09
9.0 0.5 9.7 -0.4 9.2 0.4 9.6 -0.4 9.3 0.5 9.4 -0.2 9.2 0.7 9.1 0.1 9.0 0.9 8.6
21T
22W
23T Last Qtr 24F
25S
00:17 06:42 12:46 18:56 01:00 07:27 13:33 19:43 01:44 08:14 14:23 20:34 02:31 09:03 15:15 21:28 03:21 09:54 16:10 22:25
0.4 8.8 1.2 8.2 0.9 8.5 1.6 7.7 1.3 8.2 1.8 7.3 1.8 7.9 2.0 7.0 2.1 8.0 2.1 6.8
26S
27M
28T
29W
30T
1F July New Moon 2S
04:14 10:46 17:06 23:23 05:09 11:39 18:01
2.3 7.8 2.0 6.8 2.4 7.9 1.8
00:18 06:04 12:30 18:51 01:09 06:57 13:19 19:38 01:56 07:46 14:05 20:21
7.0 3S 2.3 8.1 1.5 7.3 4M 2.0 8.4 1.1 7.7 5T 1.8 8.7 0.7
02:40 08:33 14:49 21:03 03:23 09:18 15:33 21:45 04:05 10:03 16:17 22:26 04:47 10:48 17:01 23:09 05:30 11:34 17:47 23:52
8.2 1.3 9.0 0.3 8.6 0.9 9.2 0.0 9.0 0.6 9.3 -0.1 9.3 0.4 9.3 -0.2 9.5 0.3 9.2 -0.1