The Howler
Volume 18, No. 11 Issue No. 205
November 2013 Founded 1996
TAMARINDO COSTA RICA www.howlermag.com THE HOWLER Ced. Juridica: 3-101-331333
Publisher, editor and production David Mills
Howler • Mono Congo
Newly opened in Tamarindo is ElChef’O, serving local and international dining in a casual setting.
CONTRIBUTORS
The Club at Mar Vista serves fine food on a hilltop overlooking the Pacific Ocean.
9 Dining Out
JEANNE CALLAHAN JESSE BISHOP MARY BYERLY ROBERT AUGUST KAY DODGE SUSAN SMITH
Deadline for December: November 15 Howler advertising
The Howler offers a wide range of advertising sizes and formats to suit all needs. Contact David Mills • dmills@racsa.co.cr
Advertising rates & sizes
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8 Dining Out
dmills@racsa.co.cr Tel: 2-653-0545
ELLEN ZOE GOLDEN TONY OREZ TOM PEIFER JEFFREY WHITLOW MONICA RIASCOS BARBARA DEPPE
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www.tamarindohomepage.com
15 Surf Report
International Longboard Championships in Perú; Waves Costa Rica opens Guanacaste Surf Circuit; WQS in Virginia Beach.
16
Evolution of a Guanacaste Treasure
On a hill in Lorena is La Cima, better-known as Chilito’s. We visit Chilito and learn his history as one of the town’s elders.
20
Super Rogue
Financier, cheat and and crook Robert Vesco made international news years ago, then fled from justice to Playa Grande in Guanacaste.
34
Surviving Costa Rica
We are treated to a history of Jesse’s hair and hairstyles over the decades, from short to long and back again - and why.
35
The Rains of October
Our columnist advises us on how to handle the seasonal rainfall, preserve it and use it to our advantage.
500 750
Discounts For 6 months, paid in advance, one month is deducted. For 12 months, paid in advance, two months are deducted.
www.tamarindobeach.net
14 Around Town
Openings, closings, parties, music. The Gold Coast has it all, and bar-hoppin’ David is in the groove.
DEPARTMENTS 10 Music Review
31 Slice of Life
10 Book Review
32 Doctor’s Orders
12 August Odysseys
36 Sun & Moon
27 Poetry by Diana Renee
36 Rain Gauge
28 November Forecasts
39 Tide Chart
30 Yoga Cover Caption: Beach House Restaurant in Potrero Cover Photo: Maureen Thompson Cover Design: Frank Rizzo
T
he excitement is over until June next year, when 32 football teams battle it out for the World Cup in Brazil. For the months of June and July The Howler will publish a full-page spread of the schedule for all games. Unlike earlier World Cup tournaments played in South Africa and Japan, all games in Brazil are held during our mid-day and afternoon times, ideal for restaurant lunch dining. Call 2653-0545 to secure your ad space on that page. Also, look for details of the Women’s World Cup, hosted in Costa Rica next year in March and April, in the December Howler.
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Why do so many people walk in the middle of our busy streets? Does it add to the laid-back feel of the vacation? Even now, when many parts of town have sidewalks – even both sides – people still continue this stupid and dangerous practice. Daylight Saving Time ends on November 3. Costa Rica is now on U.S. Central Time, one hour behind Eastern, one hour ahead of Mountain and two hours ahead of Pacific Time. Updated software gives more exposure for your business if you advertise with The Howler. Reading the magazine on-line, a click on the ad will take the reader straight to the advertiser’s own web site. And this service is free with your ad in the magazine. The death of young Torian Alisa shook Tamarindo in October. This sweet, pretty youngster was loved by everyone who ever met her; she was so happy and capable of bringing happiness to everyone she touched. Close friends put on a goodbye ceremony, where local surfers did a “paddle-out” and dropped ashes and flowers in Tamarindo Bay, and everyone had a chance at the mike to express their feelings for her. You will find a tribute to her in this magazine. She will be missed but not forgotten..Goodbye Torian. For years since they took over the Tamarindo water supply, AyA sent facturas to each customer’s home. Recently, they stopped this labour-intensive practice and instead, e-mailed customers with a “payment due” notice. This month, they stopped doing this. Too much trouble to send one e-mail? Por fin! The High Season is here. We hope it will be fun - and prosperous for all.
ElChef’O Tamarindo Panaderia Paris has served delicious breakfast and lunch for years, but for the evening it becomes ElChef’O, serving Latino and International cuisine, casual fine dining, under the management of Omar Ortiz from El Salvador. Omar was in the restaurant business in Colorado and Canada for eighteen years. The dining area is indoor or under the stars, next to the laguna which empties to the beach.
A
Surfer saves Tourists from Crocodile
surf lesson took an unexpected turn when Luis Sequiera, surf instructor at Kelly’s Surf Shop in Tamarindo, steered some students into the surf. Suddenly he heard two people screaming for help. The vacationing Spanish couple was being attacked by a twometer crocodile. Chasing his students back to shore, Luis paddled towards the imperiled couple but, before he could reach them, the croc had already taken a bite at the man’s hand, injuring two fingers. Sequiera put himself between the couple and their attacker and managed to scare it off. Moments later, the same crocodile swam towards a couple of Swiss surfers, so Sequiera paddled over and helped them to safety. There are crocodiles in Tamarindo Estuary, but they are very infrequent in the open water.
Our dinner began with a gratis appetizer of bruschetta, but served instead on a tortilla, very delicious. Other appetizers are garlic shrimp; mussels in white wine sauce; watermelon gazpacho; coconut seafood soup. We bypassed the enticing surfer’s steak salad and settled for spicy chicken wings and Guanacaste salad. The main dishes are T-bone steak, demiglacé vegetables and roast potatoes; baked whole snapper with citron confit; catch of the day with achiote beurre blanc; hamburger (8oz) with Cheddar and pork belly; oven-roasted chicken with jalapeño cream sauce. My companion chose the gluten-free beer batter fish, while I pigged out on the one-kilo lobster dish with chayote, patacones, roast potatoes. All our choices were delicious. The restaurant is available for events, weddings, private fiestas, and occasionally features special pupusa evenings. ElChef’O is open Wednesday to Monday from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Happy Hour offers beers at ¢1,000 with bocas. Tel: 7077-7747 for reservations; ortizo28@msn.com; FB elchefo restaurant.
The Club at Mar Vista Perched on a hill overlooking Brasilito Bay is the development Mar Vista (see ad page 3 of this issue), and one of its facilities is The Club, a restaurant serving a fusion of typical Costa Rican food and North American. Tony Monticello operates The Club, while chef Jason, from the Caribbean, who owned his own restaurant in San José, presides over the kitchen. The Club is open to all. “We cater to a local clientele,” says Tony, “probably 70% Tico, with many people from Flamingo and Tamarindo.” The Club serves lunch and dinner, from 11 a.m. to whenever, Wednesday through Saturday, and Sundays from 10 a.m. for brunch. It is popular through the day, when families come to enjoy the food and the three pools, showers, trampoline and ping-pong. From the printed menu and the chalkboard there is a choice of appetizers: wings; chicken quesadilla; caprice salad; chicken Jason; chalupas; chicken wrap; patacones; chips and guacamole; fish taco. We chose fresh waffle fries, utterly delicious, and a house special salad. Main courses are: pizza, big or personal; fish filet; Philly cheese steak; pargo entero; casado; burger; orange chicken; pasta Bolognese; penne primavera; pescado especial. My companion had the catch of the day – mahi-mahi – while I ordered a huge churrasco steak, with all the trimmings – enough for two. A fixed-price kids’ menu offers cheesy quesadilla; chicken fingers; cheeseburger; orange chicken with rice; kid casado. Personal comment: I do not like menus that show basic prices with the tax information at the foot. My tiny brain has difficulty multiplying 7907 by 1.23 to find what I shall have to pay. Outside of that, we enjoyed our evening, the food and service, and both left with tomorrow’s lunch in a doggy bag – not that the doggy will see any of it. The Club at Mar Vista is on the road between Brasilito and Flamingo, above La Paz School. Live music Saturdays. Tel 86481728; FB: your club at Mar Vista.
CD Review Terry and His Bottle Tree
Tony Orez
jaimepeligro.tamarindohomepage.com
T
erry McLaughlin is full of surprises. He lived in Tamarindo for some time with his wife, Lynn and entertained all over Guanacaste with his harmonica expertise. During that time, he released his CD, “El Gato”, a collection of classic songs, interpreted by Terry with his own, unique style. It’s a kind of a tribute album, which received great acclaim locally. After touring The States, performing in such cool venues as the Napa Opera House and Yoshi’s in San Francisco, Terry and Lynn are back in Costa Rica, landing in Grecia, for the time being. He returned with his second CD, “Bottle Tree”, a collection of six original songs, all penned by Terry, with the help of his long-time friend, Lorian Hemingway, who wrote the lyrics for the final cut, “Hymn for the Ninth Ward”. Lorian is Ernest Hemingway’s granddaughter and a successful writer on her own, with the highly acclaimed novels “Walk on Water” and “Walking into the River”. I warned you: this guy is full of surprises. Terry sings all the lead and back-up vocals on the recording, in addition to providing keyboards, bass guitar and, of course, the slick harmonica work. So, yes, this is Terry’s album, his labor of love. All guitar tracks are provided by long-time friend Flip Shoemaker, a jazz guitarist with his own impressive credentials, including work with Bernadette Peters, Mel Torme, Liza Minnelli, Ramsey Lewis, Roy Hanes, Nat Adderly and his contributions on “Renaissance”, the Grammy nominated album by Rene Croan. My first impression of the project is how melodic it sounds, how well sculpted. Put that in his repertoire, too: Terry McLaughlin, sculptor. It’s a very soulful album, reminiscent of Boz Scaggs in the Nineties, when he recorded such classics as “Some Change”. The album opens with “Wish You Were Here”, a romantic, nostalgic number and a nice introduction to The Blue-Eyed Soul of Terry McLaughlin. “Darlene”, the second song on the CD is up-tempo, a bit tongue in cheek, with great vocals and harp and full of infectious hooks. The third song, “Trouble’s No Stranger” is another richly-layered tune, highlighting Terry’s sweet vocals and songwriting mastery. “More Work 4 Less Money” is self-explanatory, an historic opus looking back on the life of a hard-working musician, again with soulful vocals that inspire. “Rivers Run” moves along like a gentle stream, with a strong bass line and memorable, crafted lyrics. The final cut, “Hymn for the 9th Ward”, displays the crisp harp work of McLaughlin, a song that deserves to be listened to and listened to again. I’m still listening, and I think this holds true of Terry’s entire “Bottle Tree”. El Gato told me he got the idea for the title from a Eudora Welty novel, in reference to a tradition brought to America by slaves from Mother Africa. Stripped-down branches from trees outside their domiciles are used to house inverted bottles, placed there to capture spirits to prevent them from entering the house. Terry has captured his own spirits (or some of them) on this wonderful recording. I look forward to him visiting Tamarindo again performing for us. In the meanwhile, copies of “El Gato” are available at Jaime Peligro book store, as will be “Bottle Tree” when it is released.
Review The Dream Blooms jaimepeligro.tamarindohomepage.com
Tony Orez (from page 10)
S
ix years ago, Nadine & Rob dropped and/or sold everything in The States and free-fell into Costa Rica. Nadine started keeping a journal of their experiences, a blog, which blossomed into her self-published book, “Happier than a Billionaire”. CNN got wind of it, did a blurb and the book took off. Proving she isn’t a one-trick pony, Nadine wrote “Happier: the Sequel”. Critics and readers embraced it as they had the first book, so much so that they currently occupy the top two places on Amazon in the “travel” category. Success breeds success. Recently, the Dynamic Duo has been on “House Hunters”, a lifestyle series called “Ex-Pats” and regional shows, like The Mike and Sandy Show. They’re also building their dream house; Rob is writing songs on guitar, and Nadine is working on the third book in her Travel Trilogy. Other than that, they’ve been taking it easy. Nadine told me that they had not expected their break from the Rat Race to open so many doors for them upon their arrival here. When Nadine wrote “Happier”, she did so as a kind of memoir, something for people to read because perhaps they had only dreamed of doing what she and Rob had done. She didn’t realize how many people were actually planning their “plunge” and were looking for resource material to make the transition as smooth as possible. And so sales of the book were reflected by this unanticipated factor. “But,” as she reminded me, “When moving to Costa Rica, expect the unexpected…” They explained to me that when the crew from Ex-Pats arrived to film their story, reality took hold: the fact that so many are looking to make Costa Rica their new home. True, it is not the right place for everyone. Yes, there are rainbows and butterflies and beautiful sunsets here. But there are also obstacles that can be perplexing, even downright frustrating. “We didn’t come here to change Costa Rica,” Nadine told me. “And because of that, our degree of happiness has unfolded in front of us. Being present and not judging, isn’t that what traveling to other cultures is all about? The more I apply that mindset, the happier I find myself becoming”. With the immense wave of interest in her first two efforts and in response to the curiosity of others planning their move, Nadine is now working on her third book, “Escape Manual”, which is essentially the nuts and bolts of what needs to be done once your feet are on the ground here and how to go about doing it, all told with a slice of Nadine’s unique humor and lessons learned, such as the need to grow more patience here. Inspired by the success of Ex-Pats, they decided to create their own show, “Building Up An Appetite with Happier Than A Billionaire” and can be viewed for now on their YouTube channel, Happier Than a Billionaire. The episodes generally consist of Rob and Nadine having an adventure for the first half, then cooking with a chef while they interview him. I’ve thoroughly enjoyed watching the magic of this couple blossom and look forward to their new enterprises as they become happier. And happier…
August Odysseys
Robert August kristenmattoxbrown@gmail.com
Barefoot Adventures
W
hen I was 15, I spent the summer surfing Oahu with my buddies Denny Beull and Rich Chew, one of the first US champions and career lifeguard at Seal Beach. We rented an apartment, bought a car for $100 and mostly surfed Ala Moana, a beautiful left. Bruce Brown also was filming us for Barefoot Adventures, one of his movies before The Endless Summer. One day, Bruce decided to fly to Kauai to see what was over there and Rich and I decided to go with him; Denny did not want to leave and miss any of the waves at Ala Moana. Bruce, Rich and I hopped on a little plane and went stone cold. At that time there was no communication on the surf at Kauai nor tourist accommodations. It took us a while, but we finally found someone to rent us a car, a Studebaker Lark. I am not sure how Bruce found it, but it was such a dorky, grandma car! It did not have any surf racks so we just used ropes. We cruised all around the island, mostly on dirt roads. The waves were average, 2-3ft, as there was no swell at all since it was summertime and we surfed several spots. Besides giant paddle boards for rent at a little hotel at Poipu beach, we did not see any surfboards nor surfers the whole time we were on Kauai. To our knowledge, we were the first ones to go over to the island and surf. We never even made it to the north shore of Kauai because the road stopped. Pretty much the whole time we slept on the beach and I remember getting eaten alive by mosquitos. The people of Kauai really had the Aloha spirit; several times we were welcomed into their homes for great meals. The whole trip was so adventuresome. Besides surfing, I remember stopping at a waterfall that had this large rock with slippery moss growing on it. In the movie Barefoot Adventures you can see Rich and me goofing around, one of us riding the other’s back like a surfboard down the slippery rock through the waterfall.
The person that loses his conscience has nothing left worth keeping. Izaak Walton
dmills@racsa.co.cr
Costa Rica goes to World Cup in Brazil
A
fter two years of excitement and anticipation during the qualifying and elimination games for the 2014 World Cup in Brazil, Costa Rica’s national team, La Sele, now has its tickets to go to Brazil in June next year. The crucial game of September 6, at home to the United States, was in essence a “grudge” match, Costa Rica’s revenge for the terrible game played in Denver last March in a blizzard. Ticos displayed some childish anger before the game, eggs thrown at the visiting team’s bus and a threatened road blockage by taxi drivers to delay their arrival on time at the stadium. But the game was terrific, great football on both sides until La Sele pulled a 3-1 win, putting them at the top of the division. Four days later La Sele met Jamaica in Kingston but, instead of walking over the lowest-ranked team as expected, they played a disgraceful game and were lucky to tie 1-1. The same night the U.S. beat Mexico to lead the division, and a tie by Honduras against Panama clinched Costa Rica’s position in second place. October 11 saw Costa Rica lose 1-0 to Honduras, while US beat Jamaica 2-0 and Mexico beat Panama 2-1. In the final elimination games October 15, US beat Panama 3-2, Jamaica tied with Honduras and La Sele beat mighty Mexico for the first time in 21 years in Costa Rica. Qualified are US with 22 points, Costa Rica 18, Honduras 15. Mexico will play New Zealand on November 13 and 20 for their chance to qualify.
So now we take a long rest from El Mundial until next June and July. And the great news for local businesses is that all the games from Brazil are late morning or afternoon games, perfect for the lunch trade in local bars and restaurants. The Howler will feature a full-page spread of the schedule for each month, so claim your sponsorship early. Next month: the other World Cup - in Costa Rica!
AROUND TOWN El Coconut Beach Club in Potrero will reopen November 8, serving lunch and dinner in a beautiful beach setting. Booked for November are Nov. 10 – Leatherbacks; Nov 17 – Unketo; Nov 24 – Santa Esperanza. La Meridiana Condos is located in Huacas, central to Costa Rica’s Gold Coast. Embedded in a lush tropical forest, surrounded by rolling hills near golf courses, marinas, surf and bathing beaches, and interesting wildlife, La Meridiana is a luxury development in a beautiful location. Open House. See ad on page 5. Super Rapido is open on the main road between Villarreal and Huacas; come check the good prices. Open daily to 9 p.m. See ad page 13. Marcia and Camille Prevel operate Symbioseas in Huacas specialising in indoor and outdoor upholstery construction and repair, also boat upholstery. Visit www.symbioseas.com El Coconut Restaurant in Tamarindo will continue to serve you delicious meals when it reopens November 5. See ad page 6. Repairs and construction? Masis Glassworks offers quality glass and aluminium custom products (free estimate). See ad on page 23. Surfer/musician Donavon Frankenreiter gives a concert at the Tropicana in Nosara, Nov. 8. See ad on page 31. Anyone for Golf? Bolas Locas, behind Pasatiempo in Tamarindo, has an 18-hole mini-golf course featuring waves and volcanoes. Great fun for all ages. See ad page 23. Bar/restaurant El Pacifico is open 24 hours in Huacas opposite the Community Center. See ad page 23. Papaya Con Leche Custom Clothing (located across from the Diria Casino) offers custom Swimwear, Clothing, Shoes, and Accessories! All garments are created in-house, in the boutique’s own upstairs design studio. Also inquire about children’s Ragdoll making classes 2653-3902! www.papayaconleche.com. Azul, new restaurant on the main corner of Brasilito. For fine & relaxed beach-front breakfast, lunch, and dinner for locals, nationals and guests from around the world. Our team at Azul will deliver one of the best savory experiences in the area to stimulate all your senses. Looking forward to your next eating experience. See ad page 19. Shopping in Santa Cruz? Restaurant La Venus Diria serves breakfast, lunch and dinner on the main street opposite BCR, See ad page 23.
(continued page 19)
Surf Report Ellen Zoe Golden ellenzoe@aol.com
I
n late September, the Costa Rica national longboard team entered the 2013 International Surfing Association (ISA) World Longboard Championship, which took place in Huanchaco, Perú. This event was the first stand-alone ISA international contest for the longboard, which previously included the the World Surfing Games categories. Competing for the best interests of Costa Rica at the Peruvian contest were the actual national longboard champion, Anthony Flores (photo) of Jacó, as well as the #2 ranked longboader, Alex Gomez of Samara. For economic reasons, this country only sent two surfers instead of the permitted six for a team. However, they were just as proud of being Tico when they walked the Parade of Nations in the opening and dropped sand from Samara in the container that mixed sand from all of the participating nations.
Circuito or other international contests can also participate in these events. The dates (which are subject to change) are: Nov 9th: Brasilito - Amateur Dec 7th and 8th: Tamarindo – Amateur Copa Pangas Jan 11th and 12th: Avellanas - Pro/Am Copa Lolas Feb 8th and 9th: Marbella - Pro/Am Copa Tiki Hut Mar 8th and 9th: Playa Grande - Pro/Am Apr 12th and 13th: Tamarindo - Pro/Am Díaz’s motive for organizing this new Circuito is to give surfers the chance at a contest in Guanacaste, while confirming the area as a surf destination that will ultimately attract tourism. The Federación de Surf de Costa Rica (FSC) hasn’t mounted a date in Guanacaste in years and there are many locals with talent itching to compete, while maybe yet being ready to do so against the rush of pros on the Circuito Nacional. “As a coach, I wanted my surfers to get more practice before going to a national event,” explained Díaz. “And I’m always thinking about my responsibility within the town I live, wanting to use surfing as an instrument for kids to stay in school—since they need to be in school to do the amateur contests—and stay healthy and off the streets.”
Photo: Alfredo Barquero Regrettably, it only took 3 days for Costa Rica to see its competitors fall out. They were already competing in the second-chance heats, when Flores and Gomez ended up placing 3rd and 4th in the same heat of Round 2 repercharge. “Definitely the cold water worked against us,” explained Flores. “We tried to go far as possible running good waves, but with our scores, it was not possible. We learned a lot from this experience. At the end, Flores placed #25 and Gomez #31 out of all the surfers there in Perú. For the ISA World Longboard Championship, France won the ISA Aloha Cup and the team gold medal. Costa Rica didn’t fare well in its first outing in this arena, placing #17 out of 22 countries. “It’s been an incredible World Championship with excellent waves every day of the event,” remarked ISA President Fernando Aguerre. “This has been an historic World Championship as it is the first time an ISA World Longboard Championship takes place separate from the ISA World Surfing Games and, furthermore, the inauguration of the Women and Junior Longboard Divisions for the first time in ISA history.” Back home in Costa Rica, Tamarindo’s Andrea Díaz is at it again. The proprietor of Waves Costa Rica, along with Chelsea Lisaius, owner of Tide Academy, have produced the Guanacaste Surf Circuit with contests taking place outside of the Circuito Nacional de Surf. The dates have been coordinated so the pros who might have plans to compete in the
She also hopes to establish a solid professional event, which will give money for prizes. There will also be three school scholarships for underprivileged kids in the area to be able to enter this series of contests. In addition to the traditional categories of competition—Open, Junior, Women’s, Women’s Junior, Boys, Groms, Chica Groms and Chicas Mini, Longboard, Masters—each event will feature a Tag Team contest, whereby different schools as a surf team will relay surf against each other. Contest money for the professional dates will range from a split of $1,000 with $3,000 in Playa Marbella. Amateurs will win trophies and medals as well as scholarships to compete in the Circuito Nacional de Surf. At the end, in Tamarindo, the winner of each category will win a new surfboard. Inscriptions will be ¢20,000 for professional contests, and ¢5,000 for the Amateur events. Already, at the time of this writing, Andrea has secured sponsors to help pay for the launching of the Guanacaste circuito. They are: Tide Academy, Kelly’s Surf Shop, Pangas, Reserva Conchal, Creatures, Lola’s, Tiki Hut Marbella, Country Day School, La Paz and Marbella Surf Inn. There will be more to come. For quite some time now, Wipeout Films has been documenting the surf action around Costa Rica. They promote themselves as the premier extreme sports and events website, specializing in live streaming and audio-visual production of surfing, skating, bodyboarding and more. (continued page 26)
Evolution of a Guanacaste Treasure
A
Kay Dodge de Peraza s Chilito sat on the cooler behind the bar, he listed the number of his brothers and sisters on the fingers of his good hand. Counting those of his mother’s seven, plus his father’s two, they came to nine.
We have known Chilito for years and counted him as a friend, but this was the first time I probed into the facts of his personal life. I hastily scribbled notes on the scrap of paper torn from the accounting book. Chilito Barrantes, owner of La Cima, the bar/ salon which is a favorite stop on our Cantina Tour, has always been like a “folk figure” to me, the essence of a Guanacaste, hard-working, small-town businessman. His bar/salon/store/home is located atop a hill overlooking the small town of Lorena, on the old oxcart trail between Portegolpe and Cartagena. He has lived there for 30 years with his family and seemed to thoroughly enjoy sharing the stories and facts of his colorful life “on the hill”. Having rarely gone to school, at thirteen he saved his money and bought his first pair of shoes. He lived with his godmother in Lorena and earned 18 colones a week cutting trees and became an expert with an axe. The story of his life reads like a novela. Growing up in Guanacaste over sixty years ago, finding a wife, establishing a homesite, raising a family, and becoming a successful, respected businessman and grandfather, his stories certainly could fill more than just the space I have to offer. However, I will share just a sampling of his story that will help us appreciate more about the people that have grown up in this area of Guanacaste. Thirty years ago, the hill and the man were very different. When Chilito came to the hill with his wife and child, La Cima was forest-covered and few people lived in the area. They married in the old Catholic church in Cartagena - he 27 and she 14. He bought his 30x30-meter lot for an amazing 30 colones. He cleared it and built his first home, a rancho with round cane walls and a thatched roof, a humble start to a now-thriving barrio. He and Francisca, now lovingly known as Doña Chica, worked hard, raising not only crops of corn, beans, cucumber, rice, watermelon, and yucca, but also five children. She smiles as she recalls, “we had only one plate to eat on, but we shared it.” Life was not easy; water came from the river, and later a well, and walking was the main means of travel to and from work. But they were in love and had no fear of hard work. Business on the hill evolved from selling homemade goods - tamales, bread, rosquillas, and yellow soap. At first, to buy a head of a pig and augment his salary of 18 colones a week; later, as a few colones were saved, to invest in candy and camfine (kerosene). Profits from the candy and 5-gallon container (continued page 24)
Dharma Corner
Sue Smith
No Mud, No Lotus
O
ne of the favorite mantras of the Zen Master Thich Nhat Hanh is “No mud, no Lotus”. But wait!.......before you dismiss it as just another trite saying like “No valleys, no mountain tops”, let’s look at what it really means. A Lotus flower is a beautiful flower that grows out of the mud in marshy, wet lands. And it is easy to draw the analogy from this into a “life lesson”.......from living in the quagmire we are able to bring forth enlightenment, symbolized by the beautiful flower. But why not just use dirt and any other flower to make the point, right? Well, because the Lotus isn’t “just any flower”. The Lotus flower starts as a seed deep in the mud. Eventually it grows on a stalk and opens into the beautiful flower. Interestingly, the stalk that supports the Lotus is one of the strongest in the flower world. It can bend in many directions but it is almost impossible to break. While the Lotus grows thru the mud and lives there, it remains brilliant in color, unpolluted by dirty, muddy water. And, this is because of the leaves it has sprouted. Because of their structure, the water actually beads up and runs off of them. It’s not the water that pollutes the leaves, it cleans them. Because there is no clinging between the drops of water and the leaves, the muddy water pours over sweeping away pollutants and debris which might have settled. So, may we learn to appreciate “the mud” in our lives. Far from it there is the opportunity to rise up like the Lotus, strong yet bendable with a flowering heart, open to the world and with a leaf structure impervious to the “dirty water” which might surround us. Go for it! Dare to be a Lotus flower! Namaste
AROUND TOWN (continued from page 14) For delicious Cuban-style sandwiches try Addy’s in Tamarindo opposite BAC San José. Express delivery. See ad page 23. Fofi’s Bar serves baldazos – bucket of 6 beers – for only ¢4,200, in Arlinka Commercial Center in Huacas. See ad on page 18. Isabelle Vandevelde has launched her new line of yoga clothing “Kina Yoga”. Call 8466-2455 for information. Beach House is open on Potrero Bay at the Marina, for great food with an outstanding view. See ad on page 17. Bar/restaurant/cabinas Qué Tuanis is under new management, and a new pool coming in summer. Available for private parties. See ad page 23. Nick Barnett from Kansas City opens El Chilito Restaurant (Calle SuperCompro). Burritos are $6; tacos $2. Special sauce BBQ. Open Mon-Sat 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Lourdes Valverde and Antonio Giménez will give you personal attention at La Oliva, offering fine imported products - wine, cheese, meats, etc. - in The Village in Brasilito. See ad page 13. Feels like home at Casa Amarilla, offering the best rates right on the beach in Tamarindo. See the ad on page 9. Mar Vista is a green and sustainable community in the hills overlooking the Pacific near Flamingo. Central to many amenities. The Club has a restaurant, swim-up bar, pools. See ad page 3.
Super R
Robert Vesco was Tamari
C
osta Rica has a long history of providing sanctuary to people whose deeds in other countries have rendered them either “wanted” or “unwanted”. Until recently, its loose immigration controls, mountainous terrain and poor communications made it a haven for those needing a hideout, especially those with a comfortable supply of funds.
Many foreigners living in Costa Rica are unaware of its connections with super-rogue Robert Vesco. Indeed, it is now so far after the fact that many will not recognize the name, but Vesco was a villain of the major ranks and a close neighbor of Tamarindo for several years. Though a U.S. citizen, born in Detroit in 1935, he was instrumental in having a law passed in Costa Rica to protect him from extradition. A high-school dropout and very aggressive businessman, Vesco became owner of International Controls Corporation (ICC) in 1965, and went on to buy Investors Overseas Service Ltd, a $1.5 billion investment company, which he proceeded to loot, setting up dummy corporations to hide clients’ investments. A millionaire by the age of 30, he was reckoned by Forbes Magazine to be one of the richest men in the world. When the Securities and Exchange Commission started serious investigations in 1973 into Vesco and his holdings, he flew in the corporate jet to Costa Rica, taking $224 million of IOS’s allegedly embezzled money. Fighting to maintain control of ICC from Costa Rica, Vesco donated large amounts of cash to Richard Nixon. In Costa Rica, he donated $2 million to a company owned by President José Figueres, for which Figueres passed a law guaranteeing that Vesco could not be extradited from the country. He owned various properties in the country, including a large tract of Cabo Velas, the prominent cape which sits across the bay to the northwest of Tamarindo. In 1993 this reporter, trying to drive to a small beach behind Cabo Velas, was denied access by a guard with an AK-47. The reporter, showing his map to the guard, said “But my map says this is a public road.” The guard patted his weapon, saying “My Kalashnikov tells me it’s a private road.” End of discussion.
Alcoholics Anonymous Schedule of Meetings
Flamingo
Tuesdays: 5:30 - 6:30 pm (open) Fridays: 5:30 - 6:30 pm (open)
Location: Hitching Post Plaza Unit 2, Brasilito Contact: Don H. at 2-654-4902
Tamarindo
Saturday: 10:30-11:30 - Open General Meeting Monday: 5:30 - Open Meeting Thursday: 5:30-6:30 - Open Meeting Location: Behind Pedro’s Surf Shop Contact: Ellen - 2-653-0897 / Steve - 8377-1529
Rogue
dmills@racsa.co.cr
indo’s Close Neighbour During Vesco’s fiveyear stay in Costa Rica he offered a bribe of $10 million to officials of Jimmy Carter’s administration to drop charges against him. His stay came to an end when President Carazo, elected in 1978, repealed the Figueres law, and Vesco fled to Nassau, where he owned a private island. Pursued by the CIA, who wanted to snatch him and take him to the U.S. for trial, he moved to Antigua, where he tried to set up an island as a sovereign state. Now persona non grata in Costa Rica, he moved to Nicaragua where, US drug officials claimed, he collaborated with the Sandinista government to smuggle cocaine into the United States. In 1982, suffering from internal medical problems, he moved to Cuba where he could receive treatment, and married a Cuban national. A master of disguises, he lived in a modest Havana house in a state of abject paranoia surrounded by bodyguards, believing that everyone who tried to visit him was CIA. While in Havana, he greeted Richard Nixon’s nephew Donald, and introduced him to Fidel and Raul Castro for the purpose of conducting tests of a new drug which, he claimed, could cure AIDS. Incorrigible, Vesco tried to defraud Nixon and Castro and was arrested. He received 13 years for fraud but was released after nine years. Vesco died of cancer in 2007. Even after his death, some believed that he had faked it, despite cemetery records and photographs of the interment.
La Paz Community School Elects New Board President On September 10, 2013, the General Assembly of La Paz Community School elected Martyn Hoffmann as the new President of the Board of Directors. During the election process the Board also voted to add Marianela Pastor (another candidate) as a vocal member in an effort to make use of her diverse skill set in advancing the mission of La Paz Community School. Both Martyn and Marianela possess complementary skills and fresh perspectives that will greatly benefit La Paz Community School. Contact La Paz School at 2654-4532 / 8350-9102 or e-mail paz@lapazschool.org
Dear friends, This year 2013 is especially challenging for the non-profit organization CEPIA. More than 900 children, teenagers and parents from poor backgrounds participate in our weekly programs. At the same time we are in the process of building Guanacaste’s first Community Centre (in Huacas) which will give an extra impulse and attention to our area as well as benefit over 2,000 local people and create social and economic improvement for all community members, especially the ones who are not enrolled in our flourishing economy today. Unfortunately we have not found the funds to survive and pay all our current program’s costs. We are in urgent need of US$20,000 to accomplish this year’s programs. If we do not find this money, we will have to close our programs that help hundreds of kids and parents in this area. We believe that our community cares about its youth and that, over the last eight years, CEPIA has proven to be really helping the ones in need. We hope you will be sensitive to our desperate call and that you can make a donation to help CEPIA survive. Laetitia Deweer - Board President
Evolution...
(from page 16)
of kerosene were reinvested in more candy, fuel and later cigarettes. The store was born. Today, Doña Chica still runs a small store, still attached to her house inside the salon. She sells all the basics to her small community and family members. In addition, she helps run the bar and is famous for her fried chicken and quadrado chips. Chilito now owns about a hectare of land on the hill. There is his wooden house that replaced the rancho; attached to it are the store and the bar/salon, five houses of the immediate family, and a cleared
platform sitting at the highest point of the hill that is reserved for “someday”. Chilitos is located just up the hill from the main paved road (route 155), the first turn off the dirt road to Lorena. A cluster of small houses now surrounds the hill. Normally, the first bar of a small town is located on the plaza, along with the school, church and football field. Chilito opened his bar sixteen years ago on the hill. As the bar and tin roof attached to the house grew, the covered area became a dance floor, later a salon with weekend dances and community parties. Long before our Cantina tours started, we would stop by the bar on the hill, named La Cima, for a cold drink on our rides. The sign outside the bar says La Cima (the summit), we all but know it as Chilito’s. The salon has become the life center of the community. In the corner of the salon, the crop of the season could be seen - corn, watermelon, black beans, etc. In the other corner one of his sons would be fashioning wooden beds or tables. Family members and friends rocked babies as an array of children played games or chased puppies. Although the house, bar and store stayed the same, the salon grew. An extension on the tin roof, an expanding cement floor, and new bathrooms to replace the “cleanest outhouse in Guanacaste” continued the evolution. Until a few years ago, tables and stools were set up on a cleared dirt floor under the stars. In my opinion, a little of the romance was lost when the walls and roof finally enclosed the dance floor, but it certainly made it nicer during the rainy season when partygoers would crowd under the partial roof during downpours.
(continued page 25)
Evolution... (from page 24)
A few years ago, a tragic fire destroyed the entire building, bar, salon and family home, but the cantina tour crowd, led by Finca Casagua, clubbed together to help the rebuilding with cash and items of use. Now the salon is rebuilt, much as it used to be, but with more spacious bar and living quarters. The salon became the home base of the popular local band Los Alegres de Lorena which featured Chilito’s son as guitar player and singer. On our rides we often encountered the afternoon practice sessions and danced along to popular salsas, meringues and cumbias. Dancing grandkids, babies, as well as dogs, pigs and chickens, became favorite photographic subjects for visiting tourists as they shared a unique Guanacaste cultural experience. The drinks were cold and cheap, the bocas free and the people friendly and open. Almost every returning rider wants to go back to Chilito’s. At the bar, locals talk about the weather, football or local politics. There have been a few times when, after a successful weekend of dances or when the trucks failed to arrive, the beer and sodas are gone. But if we let Chilito know we are coming, he will hire a car to go to Cartagena to stock up. We had to convince him to charge something for the bocas he gives so freely. We were concerned that with the beers being under a dollar he wasn’t making that much. Because he could charge something, our bocas went from canned tuna and crackers or fresh-fried river fish to fried chicken and tasty cuadrado chips. The chicken has become so popular that they now sell portions of what has become known as some of the best fried chicken in Guanacaste. Oh, I forgot to tell you that, almost 30 years ago, Chilito lost his arm just below the elbow fishing with dynamite in the ocean near Potrero. Once you know him you soon forget that he has lost his arm. There is little that he cannot do, or has not done, and he certainly has accomplished more than most with two good arms and two hands. He did receive a pension from the government for the loss of his arm; the ¢300 a month has now risen to ¢13,000, the equivalent of $33.50 a month. As he shared his memories, Chilitos said he would look for a prized photo of himself, “when I was younger, with two good arms”. There is no sadness or regret in his voice. His smile is infectious and his genuineness is refreshing in a self-made businessman. To me he exemplifies what is meant by the word noble, or in Spanish, noblessa. As he gently holds one of his nine grandchildren on his lap behind the bar, or talks with love in his eyes about his wife and partner in the business, who recently recovered from a life-threatening illness, I see what success is all about. He has his family around him, all but one son lives on the hill and the other visits frequently from Santa Cruz near by. Although not literate, he is wise. He can read the weather and the faces of people, and most importantly has earned the respect of all who have come to know him. Chilito, the king of his hill, and his wife Doña Chica, are true Guanacaste Treasures. Stop by Lorena and share a cold drink and the best fried chicken in Guanacaste.
The truth will set you free. But first, it will piss you off. Gloria Steinem
Ison
Update
Well, it looks as though the much-hyped “Comet of the Century” will turn out to be a flop, and may not even reach naked-eye visibility. A lot depends on whether it breaks up under the enormous temperature and pressure as it passes close (one million kilometers) to the sun on U.S. Thanksgiving Day (Nov 28). If not, it may be visible in the east before sunrise in the early days of December.
Surf Report (from page 15) A few months ago, on their website, they asked people to vote online for a variety categories, and presented the winners with trophies in August at the Luxe Lounge in Escazú. The winners were: Best Maneuver Metropolitan 2013: Juan José Lara Best Maneuver Bodyboard 2013: William Fallas Biggest Wave 2013: Jefferson Tascon Best Tube: Ronald Brown Power Surfing: Carlos Muñoz Best Air: Carlos Muñoz Best Wipeout: Isaac Vega Surfer of the Year 2013: Carlos Muñoz (Check out the videos of the eligible surfers at www.wipeoutfilms.com) Andrea Díaz received an award, as well, for her work with the Surf for Youth organization she founded in Tamarindo. These are underprivileged kids who surf with her each weekend and must maintain a good level of attendance and work at school to be a part of the group. And speaking of triple winner Carlos Muñoz, he and Noe Mar McGonagle (Pavones) are still riding the international surf circuit, both the Association of Surfing Professionals (ASP) Men’s and Juniors’ dates, as well as the Asociacion Latinamericana de Surfistas Profesionals (ALAS) Latin Tour. Right now, Noe Mar is perched at #1 in the ALAS Junior ranking. His story includes his most recent entries in the Chevrolet Latin Pro Salaverry, the ALAS contest in Perú and La Batalla de Carabobo Latin Pro in Punta Los Caracas in Venezuela. As is his pattern, he competed in both the Open and Junior heats, and while the Open finals eluded him in Venezula, he topped the Junior final heat and took home the trophy.
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McGonagle came damn close to taking them both in Perú, however. In the Open, with difficult conditions that forced the contestants to push for risky maneuvers, he came in second behind Chile’s Guillermo Satt. Once again, Noe Mar took the whole shebang in the Junior, earning a first place trophy, a win that kept him atop of that category’s overall rankings. Now, he sits at #12 in the Open rankings. Let’s not forget, Jacó’s Jason Torres, who still has a beautiful position in the Open rankings. With lower finishes in both Venezuela and Perú he makes a slight drop from #1 to #2. Noe Mar also got as far as the Semi Finals and 7th place at the ASP World Qualifying Series (WQS) 4-star Vans Junior Pro in Virginia Beach, Virginia. At that same event was the very busy Carlos Muñoz. In 2- to 4-foot waves, he finished in the Quarter Finals in ninth place. The ASP reporting from Virginia Beach called him a “standout” especially after the second day when he “dominated” the waves.
Phone us at: 2-653-8041 • kaydodge@racsa.co.cr www.paintedponyguestranch.com The best horses on Guanacaste’s Gold Coast!
(continued page 33)
Selected Poems from “Tell me about the telaraña” by Diana Renee
no me digas que soy loca; no comprendes mi hablar yo soy solo una chica chaputeando en el mar
in November
the cows stay up all night eating the green fields in my dreams I hear the chock chock chocking of their jaws in their bones they feel the sun hotter, the sky clear in their bellies they remember the dust-dry pastures of summer the grit of roots and dirt in their teeth no eres tan brujo como te crees bruto hecha tus hechizos grita, gruñe wallop me with your wand me quieres convertir en gallina pero no me pasa nada la magia del miedo no me espanta y no me quiero cambiar
People with clenched fists can not shake hands. Indira Gandhi
Your Stars in November
Aries: 21 March - 20 April
You might run up against a powerful opponent in your professional life early this month. Forces want to dominate you and suppress your independent actions. Listen carefully to the issues and bend a bit, but above all, don’t get angry and be overtly rebellious. There will be ways to influence the events later on. Really interesting and good days are the 13th and 14th.
Taurus: 21 April - 21 May
This is a good month to use your considerable talents and skills to work successfully with others. Some kind of offer or partnership is in the works this month that will be challenging but good for you. The eclipse on the 3rd will mark some big change in the way things are structured in your life. Don’t sign contracts till after the 10th however, to avoid missing details. Days to get your way are the 15th, 16th, and 17th.
Gemini: 22 May - 21 June
With your ruling planet, Mercury, still retrograde till the 10th, you must be patient with delays, confusion and contradictions in the workplace at the beginning of the month. After the 10th, you will be able to get into a new routine that will support the changes that have recently occurred in your daily life. All of it is worthwhile and will bring money into your coffers. Take time off to enjoy life on the 18th and 19th.
Cancer: 22 June - 22 July
You will get some news involving your children, or possibly arranging a family holiday event. Don’t try to force the issue as the Mercury retrograde till the 10th says “put the information out there and then let it unfold organically”. There’s a bit of upheaval in your professional life as Uranus in your solar tenth house squares Pluto in the seventh. Be willing to let go of expectations and trust you’ll find your way with the changes… and you will, as Jupiter in Cancer supports and protects you for the next nine months. Days to nurture yourself are the 20th, 21st and 22nd.
Leo: 23 July - 23 August
Libra: 23 September - 23 October
You might be feeling a bit jerked around at the beginning of the month as Uranus opposing your sign and squaring Pluto, along with the solar eclipse on the 3rd occurring in your second house of money and assets, backs you into a corner about what direction to turn next. Keep breathing, this will sort itself out shortly. You do have more options for money coming in, but you must ask for assistance and have patience. Days to ask for favors are the 1st, 28th and 29th.
Scorpio: 24 October - 22 November
A solar eclipse at 11 degrees of Scorpio on the 3rd will bring in a course correction regarding your image, your world view and your authentic personality. This is a big deal, and you are very serious about wanting to walk your talk, so to speak. Fine, nothing’s stopping you; in fact, there’s more support for that now than has been for years. Just take your time in making the changes, slow and steady won’t rock the boat so much. Best days are the 2nd, 3rd and 30th.
Sagittarius: 23 November - 21 December
Your ruling planet, Jupiter, goes retrograde on the 7th, bringing you some opportunity to review your long-term financial goals, make a will, review your insurances, etc. Don’t freak out, the in-depth introspection is long overdue but find a competent therapist you like talking to. The eclipse on the 3rd also supports delving into things that are hidden in the subconscious mind. When it’s time, it’s time, so jump in willingly. Good days to begin the journey are the 5th and 6th.
Capricorn: 22 December - 21 January
This is a very good month to make adjustments to your business networks, advisors and possibly even personal friends. You need to eliminate some baggage to make the most of the potency of the time. The solar eclipse on the 3rd will compel you to seek new contacts who have more clout than you do at this time. You are seeking to expand your holdings and opportunities now so wait for the right one to come along. The 7th and 8th bring opportunities.
Aquarius: 22 January - 19 February
With the solar eclipse on the 3rd taking place in your fourth house, there’s a major focus happening with your home, parents, ancestors, and real estate. You could also be contemplating a remodeling project. If so, take enough time to think it through and properly plan. The next six months have you spending more time at home and less in your public arena. Travel plans may be interrupted at the beginning of the month but things straighten out as time goes on. The 23rd and 24th are excellent days to get your way.
Your ruling planet, Saturn, is at your mid-heaven now along with Mercury Rx and the solar eclipse on the 3rd. That’s a lot of energy pulsing in your professional house of public image, the govt, and power in general. Saturn will be here for another two years so there’s time. Mars in your eighth house also gives some power to your drive and ambition. Relationships take a back seat for a while; next year’s better for that. The 9th and 10th are days to seek pleasure
You are energized by Mars now in your sign for the entire month, in fact, through the first week of December. Start a new routine or network during this time period as there’s something that could use an infusion of your organizational talents. Good month to review your health goals as well. Venus will be going into your fifth house of fun, romance and children, so it’s time to allow yourself some time to just goof around too. Life is for living, after all. Good days to do that are the 25th, 26th and 27th.
With the solar eclipse on the 3rd happening in your ninth house of mind expansion, travel, higher education, there may be significant opportunities coming to you in the next 6-9 months in those areas. Something is shifting in your goals for yourself, so see what you can accomplish to advance yourself over the next six years. This is a potent time for self-actualization and ambition. Ponder this on the 11th and 12th.
Virgo: 24 August - 22 September
by Jeanne Callahan jeannecallahan007@gmail.com
Pisces: 20 February - 20 March
Namasté Visit Jeanne’s site at CelestialAdvisor.com
Barbara’s Pet Stories Adopt a Dog
Today this is not a story, today this is a personal request: Did you know that there are about 400 million dogs worldwide that have no home ? Some of them, the more lucky ones, are living in shelters, but the majority of them live in the worst conditions, a lot of them are fighting daily for survival. Herewith I would like to appeal to people who may want to get a dog. Go into the animal shelters, go into the sanctuaries, into the killing stations. Adopt a puppy or adopt a dog. There are so many dogs of all ages looking for homes. They may not have a pedigree, but they all have a heart and a soul and the only wish they have is to find safe place with soft hands to pet them. Why do I write this? Because I rescue dogs from the roads for years. Because I can see every day how happy they are now. Because I wish that more dogs could find a loving home. Please adopt, do not buy! barbara.s.animalrescuecenter@gmail.com
Now Begins the Study of Yoga Backbends From doing backbends regularly, I can tell you that they are also energizing and always make me feel more alive!
We spend a lot of time in our life forward bending. Even as you read this article, you are probably in some type of a forwardbending posture. If you are sitting, you are forward bending. Unless you stay conscious of supporting your back as you sit, you usually allow the low back to bow out a bit, and end up with your shoulders coming forward.
Beginning to practice backbends, some people may get a strong physical or emotional reaction, especially if it is an unfamiliar movement for their body. Yet, as they are so good for us, it is important to do them, beginning with gentle and correct movements for your body.
Many of our daily routines take us into this position, from driving to eating to working on your laptop, cellphone, or other device. Forward bending physically causes the front of our vertebrae to move closer to each other, making the disks between the vertebrae move back – in extreme cases even causing herniated disks. The muscles of our lower and upper back also are affected if we don’t sit up with our natural spinal curves. Backbends help to open the front of the vertebrae, providing some much needed decompression, as well as bringing the back muscles into better balance.
There are a couple of important general guidelines for backbends. Go slow and pay attention to all the messages you will receive from your body. If there is any sharp pain, come back out. This can mean that you are overarching one part of your back – typically the low back or neck. If this continues, work with your teacher to learn to do backbends safely for your body. If you are simply feeling the challenge of doing something new, try to stay and breathe into your pose for a few breaths and see what happens. Secondly, think long and even. Bring length throughout your spine in your backbends. Then, keep practicing. Start out small, with easy backbending poses for a few breaths. Rest, and try again. It is important to build up the muscles in your back gradually. So even if you haven’t done any backbends since you were a kid, try incorporating some gentle ones into your day and practice. Your back will thank you!
Research on the benefits of backbends has shown that they can help improve your posture, relieve back pain, improve some spinal deformities and shoulder problems, as well as help with kidney and digestive function.
Namaste, Mary Mary Byerly is one of the owners and the yoga teacher at Panacea. An oasis of tranquility and health 10 minutes from Tamarindo. Discover Paradise and Bring a Peace Home www.panaceacr.com • 2653-8515
A Slice of Life My Fair Lady goes Nuclear
W
David Mills
ay back in the ‘50s, in the coldest era of the Cold War, Great Britain, already a member of the Nuclear Club, had developed a hydrogen bomb but, before they could test it, the International Atomic Energy Agency announced a ban on nuclear tests in the near future. Britain scrambled to put a test program in place to beat the deadline, and a series of tests under code name Grapple was begun at Christmas Island in the Pacific. Though I tried hard to get posted on this operation, my C.O. was adamant. “You need to be here to look after the crews when they return.” So I watched in envy as my buddies set off for a trip across Canada and the United States to the exotic Pacific. Subsequent events have made me heartily glad that I was refused. Our squadron’s job was to take photos of the bomb drop – from, hopefully, a safe distance. The other squadron from our base had a very different job: with aircraft hurriedly modified with scoops and filters outside the fuselage, they were to dive through the mushroom cloud one minute after detonation to collect radioactive samples for the scientists. This story, and its gruesome aftermath, has been much documented, and we will not go into it here.
The tests were completed, with a modicum of success, and the aircraft returned home via Hawaii, the States and Canada. During their stopovers the crews managed to fill the bomb bays with a stash of good Scotch which was much cheaper in the U.S. than in Britain! The second cargo comprised hundreds of LPs (long-playing records) of the hit show “My Fair Lady” which was playing on Broadway. Songs from the show were enormous hits but by law were unavailable for sale in Britain, so fresh-minted LPs were worth their weight in gold. As the bombers arrived at home base, a small Morris 1000 car was seen hurrying across the airfield. We recognized it as the local H. M. Customs crew, here to examine the aircraft after its long trip to foreign countries. “I think we are in trouble here,” said the duty officer, having been informed by radio of the aircrafts’ cargo. As the first aircraft stopped on its pad the car pulled up nearby, and two officious guys approached the aircraft. The door flew open and the pilot jumped to the ground: “Get the hell away from here,” he yelled. “This aircraft is hot! We just flew through a hydrogen bomb cloud!” The Customs guys jumped into their car and broke the Morris 1000 land speed record getting off the base. “OK, lads,” called the captain, opening the bomb bay doors, “get all this stuff to the Officers’ Mess”. Each of the ground crew received a bottle of Scotch for his troubles, and the records of “My Fair Lady” sold like hot cakes on the Black Market in London.
A very special evening with
Donavon Frankenreiter Live in Concert Friday November 8th! how s y l n His o sta Rica! In Co
The Tropicana • Nosara
Doors 7:30pm • Show 9pm • Full Bar
$20 Advance tickets avail. in Tamarindo thru Kristen Brown at Robert August Surf Shop or by calling 8528-3796
In Nosara tix at Frog Pad, Harbor Reef, Surfing Nosara 89 or Contact Peter Lewis 8911-4593
Doctor’s Orders Jeffrey Whitlow, M.D.
jwhitlow82159@gmail.com
L
Cancer
ast month we began a discussion about cancer and the politics surrounding the conventional and “unconventional” courses of treatment for this “disease”. We will begin this month’s discussion with the name Dr. Richard Passwater, Ph.D. Dr. Passwater’s work can be viewed at his website, www.drpasswater.com. He has written over 40 books and 500 articles on nutrition. He has archived 150 of those articles on his site, a body of work that is highly indicative of the passion he brings to this field of research. His focus is mainly on the use of antioxidants, and he has also studied the minerals selenium and chromium in great detail. In summary, Dr. Passwater firmly believes there is a link between the consumption of processed foods and the development of cancer. You may peruse his articles at your leisure on his site. Next we cite Dr. W.J. McCormick, a Canadian physician who has done extensive research on the benefits of megadoses of Vitamin C. Dr McCormick agrees with my conclusions that Vitamin C is essential for healthy skin and blood vessels. He doesn’t have his own website, but a Google search of his name will lead you to his articles. Another interesting body of research has been performed by Dr. Max Gerson. The Gerson Institute, located in San Diego, CA, was set up to help people with cancer and other supposedly incurable chronic conditions. Dr. Gerson believes that a vegetarian organic diet with raw juices and natural supplements can be of benefit in the treatment of those diseases. His philosophy and body of work can be found at www.gerson.org.com. Another pioneer in this field was Dr. Ewan Cameron, a Scottish-born physician who assisted Dr. Linus Pauling in his studies of Vitamin C as a treatment for cancer. Google “Dr. Ewan Cameron, nutrition”. (If you put in “Dr Ewan Cameron”, your search will lead to some interesting, but off beat, discussions of brainwashing and the MLK Ultra program.) It is interesting to note that the top article is one that brands these doctors as frauds, which is a strong indicator of the medical establishment’s hostility toward natural, i.e. cheap and non-patentable, treatments for disease. Dr Robert Janker, whose website can be viewed at http:// www.robert-janker-klinik.com/Start/Themen/About-us-2/History-81413-2.aspx, is one of the few physicians in the world with extensive experience in the use of Laetrile as a cancer treatment. That substance has been banned for use for cancer treatment in the US for many years, as it is regarded by the American medical establishment as ineffective quackery, but in other countries like the late Dr. Janker’s home country of Germany, it is looked upon as a safe and non-toxic therapy. The intense and extreme politics surrounding the Laetrile issue are best reviewed in G. Edward Griffin’s book World Without Cancer, which we have previously cited here. I have given you readers some food for thought and some areas from which to start your own research in this regard. I hope you will find this material as fascinating as I have. Next month we will continue this discussion.
Ar
(from page 26)
rld
nd the Wo u o
Surf Report Back in August, Muñoz (photo) secured a fantastic third place finish in a dramatic Open final of the 3-star Pantin Classic Galicia Pro in Spain. All week he attacked the ramps provided by the area’s waves and showed off his progress aerial surfing. “Last year, I lost in the second round, so I guess I’m pretty happy with a third place finish today!,” exclaimed Muñoz. “I came here to train and to make it all the way to the final is amazing. I was really tired by the end, but I’m stoked for Steven (Pierson of Tahiti who won first place), as he’s been ripping. I was watching him in the water throwing so much spray.”
S
teve Moumouris, of Grand Island, FL, was rescued near Crystal River 24 hours after he fell from his boat. He trod water, without a lifejacket, for the whole time.
Singer Jimmy Buffett, 66, taking a day off from concerts in New York, caught a two-meter 350-lb tuna off Nantucket. We imagine there will be a Parrothead song about it soon. A 200-year-old Holy Bible has been returned to the church in Sussex, England, from which it was stolen 42 years ago. A German tourist had taken it, hoping it would improve his English. Hot feet! Patrick Campbell, of Sierra Leone, was arrested at New York’s JFK airport with his shoes full of uranium samples. He was attempting to arrange a deal of 1,000 tonnes with Iran, probably for use in nuclear weapons.
After that contest, he set out for Puerto Escondido with some friends to do some training and practice on the Mexican Pipeline.
A new skyscraper in London, as yet unopened, is being redesigned because its concave shape is focusing the sun’s rays onto the street below, causing damage to parked cars.
“I went with friends on a surf trip to Mexico with the intention of charging my batteries so I can continue working,” Muñoz told the Costa Rican press. “I have improved in the rankings of the ASP and so I can focus on the remaining tournaments of the year, with a goal of getting to number 40 or 50 in the world.”
Adolf Hitler’s bodyguard, Rochus Misch, died in Berlin aged 96. He was the last person to see Hitler before the Nazi leader shot himself.
Just past for the surfer from Esterillos is the Rip Curl Pro by Moche in Peniche/Cascais, Portugal on October 9 to 20, where he surfed in the Junior and Open. At this writing, Carlos Muñoz is ranked #9 on the ASP Juniors and #80 on the Open.
That’s all I’ve got. Looking forward to hearing what you think. Keep those emails coming at EllenZoe@aol.com. Send your comments, information, errors or praise, because I can’t do this column without you, the real surfers.
You may be disappointed if you fail, but you are doomed if you don’t try. Beverly Sills
Earth’s largest volcano has been discovered under the Pacific Ocean. At 450 x 640 km, it is about the size of Arizona, and has been inactive for 145 million years. The team bus of Worcester Warriors rugby club caught fire and was totally gutted on the way to an away match. The game started two hours late, and the warriors, who had taken a 12-3 lead, lost to Swansea Ospreys 23-19. A 740 km long canyon has been discovered under the 3 km thick ice cap of Greenland. Fifty percent longer than Arizona’s Grand Canyon, it is not as deep, between 200 and 900 meters. It has been covered by ice for 4 million years. A urinal, stolen from the Royal Oak pub in Southampton, was recovered after the thief, caught on closed circuit TV, turned himself in.
Surviving
C hapter MCMLVIII
COSTA RICA
Hair Story by Jesse Bishop owlhumm@hotmail.com
“Gimme head with hair long beautiful hair, flow it, show it, long as God can grow it - my hair!”
H
air is something we all have in common. It comes in several colors and varieties, is found on both sexes of the species and has been around as long as man has been around. The earliest men, Australopithecus, were just about covered with it, and many scientists conjecture that the race died out from excessive grooming. Some of the earliest depictions of early CroMagnon Man, found on cave walls outside of Paris, depict rituals relating to hair dying and depilation, while the ancient Egyptians worshipped a hairless God depicted as a plucked chicken with the head of a jackal, making them one of the first ancient civilizations to envision a hairless new world, a trend that exists till this day. The first time I personally remember dealing with hair was back in the United States in the mid-nineteen-fifties. I was three or four and it was time for my first real haircut, so I found myself in a Norman Rockwellish setting, sitting on a special “kiddie” chair. The barber asked me what kind of style I wanted, the first of many such questions over the next six decades. I pondered the query for a few moments and answered that I would like one like the President’s. The assembled barber shop patrons seemed to think that was pretty funny and it was explained to me that Dwight Eisenhower had no hair to speak of. Nonetheless I received the standard buzz that all children living in that bygone era got, which ended up looking pretty much like ‘ol Dwight’s anyway. The standard buzz-cut look lasted until the Beatles showed up, then all hell broke loose. I can still remember their first album, “Meet the Beatles” with bangs coming down almost to the middle of their foreheads, scandalizing parents, clergy, congressmen, teachers and adults in general.
Up until that time, at the age of twelve, I had pretty much assumed that, like my dad and grandfathers, I’d be shooting for a career in the Navy but now all bets were off. The final blow to my Naval ambitions came with the Rolling Stones’ “Out Of Our Heads” album featuring bangs all the way down to the eyebrows. I blew up all my model battleships and airplanes with fire crackers (actually pretty cool!) and started playing “Satisfaction” on an old tennis racket. For the next six years of “if you’re living in this house you’ll do what I tell you” I found myself in a constant battle with the family’s number one authority figure over the length of my hair and all that it inferred both philosophically and culturally. Just like every other person growing up in the Sixties. And to make things worse I traded in my tennis racket for an electric guitar and found myself in a band at a time when bands were getting progressively hairier. The “adult” world was therefore not too happy when, in my high school junior year, the waytoo-liberal, pinky and newly laissez-faire local school board completely revised the school dress code, not only permitting hair at any length but also beards and no longer requiring the wearing of support garments. Suddenly everybody had long hair, and, as rednecks for the next ten years would note, “you cain’t tell the ******* boys from the *******girls”. At eighteen I was free to leave and start growing my hair in earnest. The bands kept getting hairier and I had planned to keep mine that way too. However, at one point I found myself moving down to Florida to live with a favorite uncle-type who probably would appreciate me showing up a little less shaggy than I currently was. I thought “no problem” and headed into an Orlando, Florida, barber shop decked in Confederate flags and sheets with eye holes, telling the barber I wanted
“a little off the top and sides”. The next thing I knew he’d removed all the hair on the left side of my head. I remembered at the time thinking that this was a punishment from God, so I let him finish off the other side if only for the sake of symmetry. We now jump ahead forty some years to the present. I’m still wearing my hair as long as it will go despite the fact that it’s hopelessly out of kilter with the current concept of hair, which is to say having none. I now find myself with hair longer than most of the women in my peer group and also sport a beard approaching Santa Claus length, an affectation requested by my wife for reasons best not printed in a family-oriented publication such as The Howler. The current Playa Tamarindo look for most of the male population, as well as an alarming number of women, seems to lean towards the “Shaved to the Skin”, the contemporary form of the aforementioned Egyptian chicken worshippers. I’m told the style, or lack of it, is much more comfortable in this climate and adds less drag when trying to outswim sharks. Also, as with Benito Mussolini, it hides baldness. It’s unfair to term “baldness” as a style, and “affliction” is a little too harsh. In my case, as many others’, my baldness started in back where I never saw it unless someone pointed it out to me with a mirror. You know the type. For me it was out of sight, out of mind. As those of you out there familiar with my current coiffure know, I have a lot of it in back and very little on top. Which leaves us with a proverb: Men who are bald in back are great thinkers. Men who are bald on top are great lovers. Men bald in both spots think they are great lovers.
The Rains of October Tom Peifer peifer@racsa.co.cr
Rain is grace; rain is the sky descending to the earth; without rain, there would be no life - John Updike.
M
any year-round residents of coastal Guanacaste spend the month of October watching the skies.
Farmers worry about too much or too little rain for their late season plantings of corn, rice and beans. Homeowners find and fix new leaks, pump out septic tanks that suddenly don’t drain and deal with the daily struggle of keeping the mud out and the cleanliness in. Developers can lose lots, roads or bridges in an overnight deluge. Business owners cast a wary eye on the runoff from uphill neighbors so as to not lose precious customers and inventory to a sudden surge of incoming sludge. A friend in Santa Cruz spent a nervous morning with one eye on the rising river in her back yard and the other on the growing number of crocodiles sunning themselves on her partially submerged lawn. Crisis presents opportunity not only for the crocs. In my submerged summer garden I’ve made my own effort to recreate the floating gardens of Mexico City and discovered a productive way to ‘beat the heat.’
corner of paradise, both beachfront businesses and coastal homeowners started getting a bit of salty water from the ocean into their wells about mid-way through last year’s six months of seasonal Sahara. As if all the ‘knowns’ aren’t enough, one of the ‘unknown knowns’ is just how much it will rain in October in the watershed that flows into Lake Arenal, the vital source of 20% of Costa Rica’s electrical generation capacity. Remember, even if we do have water in our wells, it takes an increasing amount of electricity to get that water out as the water levels drop. Forgive me for a clumsy back-step or two at this point. Long-term analysis of weather patterns by the Instituto Meteorologico Nacional, singles out October as the key month in yearly rainfall totals. The difference between a “wet” year and a “normal” or “dry” year basically comes down to the amount of precipitation in the 31 days ending on Halloween. I’ve seen dry Octobers with strong offshore winds, doubling over whole fields of corn as happy surfers blaze down the highway to perfect and uncrowded waves. And the polar—or tropical—opposite: a foot of rain in a night, a meter or more in a month and entire towns deploying shovels, buckets and mops to clean up in time to greet the arriving hordes of travellers seeking their yearly dose of fun in the sun. Before getting to the ‘take-home lesson’ on all this, it may be useful to recall that, in addition to seasonal and short-term variations in our rainfall, there are both longer-term cycles and distinct historical trends.
Other neighbors have even designed their houses to harvest the October rainfall and store it for use in the scorching days of the dry season that lie just around the corner. Nevertheless, as the old saying goes, “forewarned is forearmed.” If last year was any indication, we’re in for another ‘long, hot summer.’ Predictions are for the city of Nicoya to run out of water at some point during our dry season. In my
In general, the early 1980s featured a severe drought in Guanacaste. Possibly a combination of the El Niño cycle on top of the deforestation that has probably caused a steady decrease in rainfall since the early ‘50s. Records from Santa Cruz show that previously there was rainfall—small amounts to be sure—throughout the now-dry-months of January through April. Add to this, the recent discoveries by archeologists of what appear to have been “mega El Niño droughts” on the order of every hundred years or so. These droughts, often coupled with other factors, may well have been the proverbial straw that broke the backs of civiliza (continued page 36)
The Rains of October
November 2013 ( a l l
t i m e s
l o c a l )
Sun
1st - rise 5:34; set 5:20 15th - rise 5:38; set 5:18* 31st - rise 5:45; set 5:19
tions ranging from the Classic Mayan to the Chaco Culture of NW New Mexico. (An armchair futurologist might be tempted to speculate on the comparative resilience of the pizza-surf-yoga ‘cultural complex’ as compared to the maize-beans-squash triad which sustained Native American societies from New Mexico to Guanacaste for many millennia.)
* earliest sunset of year - 16th at 5:17 New: 1st quarter: Full: Last quarter:
Moon
3rd 9th 17th 25th
6:50 a.m. 11:57 p.m. 9:16 a.m. 1:28 p.m.
RAINFALL - Aug/Sept 2013 Maricle Meteorological Observatory Villarreal de Santa Cruz Total rainfall: 35.0 cm (13.8 inches)
16
20
25
31 1
5
Aug
10
15
Sept
RAINFALL - Sept/Oct 2013
3.5
Maricle Meteorological Observatory
3.0
Villarreal de Santa Cruz
2.5
Total rainfall: 20.5 cm (8.1 inches)
m 2.0
Get one of those Styrofoam flats that grapes and apples are packed in for export/import purposes. Put in some soil, plant some seeds, park it in a semi-shaded area and water daily. When the plants are 4-6 inches in height, nice and green, put them out in the full sun of the dry season and water them half as much or not at all. That is your ecosystem on climate change. As we quoted above, “Forewarned is forearmed.” Returning to the on-off nature of the rainfall in October, you might wonder, like, what exactly is the take-home message? Let’s cut to the chase here: If there’s little rainfall, save it, via buckets, barrels, tanks or into the soil. If there’s a lot, ditto, and even though you’ll fret over all the runoff going into the ocean, at least save what you can.
RAIN GAUGE
4.0
c
Without a doubt the scariest trend for Guanacaste is an overall drying out that is projected by climate change models. A twomonth break in the rains is expected to become a regular feature of life in as little as twenty years. Most attention has focused on the rising heat, for instance a recent report on the average high temperatures becoming the average lows, and its effects on humans. Nonetheless, the combination of rising heat and lower rainfall will most drastically harm the ecosystems—and the agricultural ecosystems—on which we all depend. This is one experiment that indeed you can “try this at home.”
RAIN GAUGE
10 9 8 7 c 6 5 m 4 3 s 2 1 0
(from page 27)
Chances are very good that your ability to do this will come in quite handy in the months—and years—ahead.
1.5
s 1.0 0.5 0.0 16
20
25
Sept
Year-to-date 2013: 157.4 cm 2012: 122.6
30 1
5
10
Oct
Rainfall Sep/Oct 2013: 78.7 cm 2012: 30.2
15
Tom Peifer is an ecological land use consultant with 18 years experience in Guanacaste. 2658-8018. peifer@racsa.co.cr El Centro Verde is dedicated to researching and promoting sustainable land use, permaculture and environmentally sound development. www.elcentroverde.org/
The Howler Magazine Serving the Gold Coast of Costa Rica www.howlermag.com Tel: 2653-0545
Torian Alisa Jeffries, a beloved member of our Tamarindo community, the community. During her free time she mastered the Spanish language, died at the age of twenty-five on October 3rd in San José, Costa Rica. learned to surf, and traveled extensively with friends and family, having Born January 22, 1988, in Dallas, TX, she is survived by her father and a blast and always doing exactly what she wanted. Torian was a “ray of stepmother: Robert and Mary Jo Jeffries of Cooper City, FL., mother sunshine” with a magnetic personality and a spectacular smile. She was a and stepfather: Lisa and Mark Feegel of Raleigh, NC., and four brothers: vivacious, fun-loving, free spirit with an irresistible personality that both Taylor, Michael, Ryan and Tyler. oozed sex appeal and radiated innocence, captivating any audience, young Torian was a ‘Southern-Girl’ who spent her childhood in Raleigh, and old, male and female. With her charismatic presence and flirtatious North Carolina, where she was a popular student at charm, Torian quickly became an admired and Durant Road School, subsequently attending Sand- FAREWELL SWEET TORIAN well-liked local attraction, a mascot of sorts who erson High School, Class of 2006. She was also a was deeply loved and who will be deeply missed. YOU WILL BE MISSED ‘Renaissance-girl’ who loved all things nostalgic like On October, 15, 2013, A sunset ‘Paddle Out’ of vintage cars, pin-up girls and especially watching 20+ surfers formed an intimate circle in the ocean ‘classic’ old romantic movies on TV. After graduaand, together holding hands, cast Torian’s ashes tion she pursued her profound interest in ‘body art’ into the wind and into the deep blue sea that she spending two years as a tattoo apprentice helping loved so much. Afterward a lovely Memorial was to manage two successful tattoo studios: Bombs held in her honor at Langosta Beach Club where Away and Romantic Torture, both in Jacksonville, 150 friends and family celebrated her joyous life, NC. Torian was literally a Work-of-Art, her body shared memories and paid their last respects to the a canvas she’d adorned with beautiful tattoos, her beautiful darling girl they once knew. Her family favorite being the ‘blooming lotus’ that ran the length was completely overwhelmed by the outpouring of of her right arm. Her tattoos were featured in many love and support they received from the Tamarindo publications such as ‘Inked’ and even graced the community and are eternally grateful to everyone cover of ‘Tattoo’ magazine. involved. Having an adventurous spirit and a strong desire During the short amount of time she was alive, to travel the world, at the age of twenty-one Torian she positively affected everyone she met and Torian Alisa Jeffries 1988 - 2013 decided to follow her dreams and made the brave profoundly touched many people’s hearts. She decision to re-establish her life in Costa Rica and where she lived until her undoubtably made this world a better place and she will never, ever be death...It was a little surf town on the Pacific Coast called ‘Tamarindo’ that forgotten. stole her heart after falling in love with the endless beaches and friendly Rest in Peace Sweet Angel. We all always LOVE you! atmosphere, eventually referring to Tamarindo as her second home. She From your best friend, Eve Baldwin was employed by ‘Bar One’ and ‘Aqua Discotheque’ as a waitress and club promoter where she forged deep friendships with many people in
Farewell to Our Beloved Torian
1F
2S
3S New Moon 4M
5T
00:37 06:49 13:04 18:59 01:20 07:33 13:48 19:43 02:03 08:15 14:31 20:26 02:45 08:58 15:14 21:11 03:28 09:42 15:58 21:56
8.4 0.9 7.7 1.0 8.9 0.3 8.4 0.5 9.4 -0.2 8.9 0.1 9.8 -0.6 9.2 -0.1 10.0 -0.8 9.4 -0.3
6W
7T
8F
9S 1st Qtr 10S
04:13 10:27 16:44 22:43 05:01 11:13 17:33 23:34 05:52 12:04 18:26
10.1 11M -0.9 9.4 -0.2 9.9 12T -0.7 9.3 0.0 9.5 13W -0.4 9.1
00:28 06:46 12:58 19:23 01:28 07:47 13:57 20:26
0.4 14T 9.0 0.0 8.8 0.8 15F 8.5 0.5 8.6
NOVEMBER TIDE CHART 16S
02:35 08:54 15:02 21:33 03:46 10:03 16:09 22:39 04:55 11:11 17:14 23:40 05:59 12:12 18:14
1.1 8.1 0.9 8.5 1.2 7.9 1.1 8.5 1.1 7.9 1.1 8.7 0.9 8.0 1.0
00:35 06:54 13:07 19:07
8.9 20W 0.6 8.3 0.9
17S Full Moon 18M
19T
01:25 07:43 13:55 19:54 02:10 08:26 14:40 20:37 12:52 09:07 15:21 21:18 03:32 09:45 16:02 21:57 04:11 10:23 16:42 22:36
9.1 0.3 8.5 0.7 9.3 0.1 8.6 0.7 9.3 0.0 8.7 0.7 9.3 0.0 8.7 0.8 9.1 0.1 8.6 1.0
21T
22F
23S
24S
25M Last Qtr
04:50 11:01 17:22 23:16 05:29 11:39 18:02 23:57 06:11 12:19 18:45
8.8 26T 0.3 8.8 1.2 8.5 27W 0.6 8.2 1.5 8.1 28T 0.9 7.9
00:42 06:55 13:02 19:30 01:29 07:43 13:47 20:19
1.7 29F 7.7 1.3 7.7 2.0 30S 7.3 1.6 7.6
02:22 08:37 14:37 21:11 03:19 09:35 15:31 22:06 04:17 10:34 16:28 23:00 05:14 11:32 17:34 23:52 06:08 12:25 18:18
2.1 7.0 1.8 7.6 2.1 6.9 1.9 7.7 1.9 7.0 1.9 8.0 1.5 7.3 1.6 8.4 1.0 7.7 1.2
1S Dec 2M New Moon 3T
4W
5T
00:42 06:59 13:15 19:09 01:31 07:47 14:04 20:00 02:20 08:35 14:52 22:50 03:08 09:22 15:40 21:40 03:57 10:10 16:30 22:30
8.9 0.5 8.2 0.8 9.4 -0.1 8.8 0.3 9.8 -0.6 9.2 -0.1 10.1 -0.9 9.6 -0.3 10.2 -1.0 10.8 -0.4