JUly 2021
IN T E R NA TI O N A L Co s ta Rica T O T H E WORLD
since 1996
• Surf Spots • Skimboarding: Acrobatics of the Fearless • Road Trip to Sarapiqui • Graceful Dance of the Mobula Rays • Passion for Travel • Anatomy of a Dream Home • Summer Vacation Game Plan
h o w l e r m a g . c o m
DIGITAL mags
EDITORIAL
IS TECHNOLOGY RUINING OUR CULTURE?
A
s our advancements in technology accrue, are we sacrificing the regional cultures of the world?
I remember when visiting Mexico years ago, you would rarely see cell phones used by the locals. However every shanty shack had a satellite hookup for television. The next year on my yearly trek, all of a sudden everyone had cell phones. The cultures of Latin America run deep in its indigious tribes, art, food and dance. Today you see the young people with their faces in their cell phones and they hardly look up to see if there is traffic when crossing a street. This is not just a case in Latin America, it is worldwide. The fear of the new generation not embracing the culture and heritage that built their society is real. Technology, while improving our lives, also ruins the base that we are founded upon. The social nature of people is being lost. We are relying more and more on the gadgets that are supposedly making our lives easier. Have you ever sat in a restaurant and seen everyone at the table texting or doing searches with their phones? It’s sad that communication has evolved to our gadgets, rather than a smile, hello and good conversation.
The art of just simple chatting is being lost. Social media is anything but social. The brag factor of where you are, what you are eating or buying has taken control. Influencers! How do we gain control of our social lives again? Can you even leave a cell phone without picking it up every few minutes? Do a test and see how long you can go without picking up your cell phone to see if someone has liked your comment or texted you. Is it really that important that you spend half your day with noses stuck in a phone or an electronic device? We have been locked down for over a year, and out of necessity resorted to Zoom meetings not only for work purposes but also for personal contact. How do we pull ourselves out of the shutdown and begin engaging people once again? I made the statement early in the shutdown that it would be hard to get people out of the new comfort level that they have within their own environment. We have to start getting out and making the world move once again with normality.
Going back to our cultures: how do we keep the new generation interested in their past so that they relate to the history that made them? Facebook and Instagram are not promoting society, they are promoting self-nature. The history that has made all of our cultures is wildly important and needs to be taught, passed on and celebrated. We need to see kids out playing again and learning how to work in teams rather than self-reliance. When I visited many foreign countries, it was so interesting to see how the town square would fill up in the evening with people socializing. La Ramblas in Barcelona was packed with strollers out enjoying the company of others.
Social media is anything but social.
We need to regain this to keep moving forward with a healthy society. Try turning your phone and computer off for a full day. Regain your life from the electronics that are currently controlling you.
John B. Quam
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HOWLER T r o o p
H
owler hits the Pacific waves this month, in more ways than one. Reflecting on Costa Rica’s abundance of premium surf spots, including many featured in past magazine issues, our cover story revisits these four among many favorites: Ollie’s Point, Playa Hermosa, Mal Pais and Playa Negra. Then, for a different water sport twist, we take you to Prieta for some spectacular skimboarding action, captured through the lens of our July featured contributor, Perry Carlile. Yet another style of aquatic acrobatics will captivate you in our Creature Feature, where a group of graceful mobula rays are pictured at Drake Bay. Travel & Adventure explores the natural wonders of Sarapiquí and highlights five Nicaragua attractions that are possible to visit during a long-weekend jaunt across Costa Rica’s northern border. The Arts, Culture & Entertainment section provides insight into funeral and cemetery traditions in Costa Rica, and also tells a lighthearted tale about a ravenous ATM. Pura Vida offers four professional perspectives on Costa Rican dream home designs, and a mindfulness ritual for connecting with the healing power of water. The importance of ensuring water accessibility when purchasing a home building property is covered in CR Biz, as well as LegalEase information for rental property owners.
FEATURED CONTRIBUTOR Perry Carlile began his photography career at his hometown newspaper, The Monitor, in Naples, Texas. He was also the high school yearbook photographer for one year. He joined the U. S. Navy in 1979 as a Photographer’s Mate. He flew with training jets, served on a destroyer tender ship and taught at the Navy’s Photography A School in Pensacola, Florida before his tour ended in 1987. Since then, Perry has taken wedding, nature and family photos. He has lived in Costa Rica for over eight years. He serves as pastor at Beach Community Church in Brasilito.
WRITERS Ivan Granados. Managing Partner at GM Attorneys, specializing in real estate and corporate law. igranados@ gmattorneyscr.com Laura Méndez. Founder of Pura Vida Vibrations. Offering sound journeys, breathwork experiences, cacao ceremonies & other activities. hello@puravidavibrations.com Norm Schriever. Best-selling author, expat, cultural mad scientist, and enemy of the comfort zone. Places he has called home over the past decade include Costa Rica, Nicaragua, Cambodia, Thailand, and the Philippines.
HOWLER
July 2021 Vol. 30 No. 7
PUBLISHER / EDITOR-in-CHIEF John B. Quam
Joanna Blanco. Integrative nutritional health coach who helps clients embrace wellness in five interconnected areas of life: relationships, livelihood, physical activity, spiritual awareness and diet. Mary Martin Mason. Published author whose latest book, Casa de Doloros, was inspired by her experiences and adventures as a U.S. expat living in Atenas, Costa Rica. A regular writer for the Mango Musings blog, and also an award-winning former columnist with The Southwest Journal in Minneapolis, who also taught high school English in Houston, Japan and Minnesota. Rick Philps. Canadian who practiced law in Victoria, BC before moving to Costa Rica in 1998. He has practiced law here for 17 years, having continued his education in civil law and notary and registry law. Offers legal due diligence seminars and consultations in the Gold Coast area for expats moving, or considering moving to Costa Rica. Contact rick@ costaricacanadalaw.com or visit www.costaricacanadalaw.com Tom Schultz. BS Biology and Geology, avid birder and nature photographer, retired software executive. tom@pananima.com
PHOTOGRAPHERS Carlos Palacios. Professional water and land photographer from Costa Rica, who loves nature and surfing, and telling stories with his photos while having fun doing it. insecto@gmail.com www. insectoart.com Facebook @insecto Instagram @insecto Christopher Penker. Photographer specializing in wildlife, underwater and nature. Visit Wild Horizon Photography and Instagram@wild _horizon_photography Emiliano Ras. Professional photographer and surf guide in Guanacaste. Instagram/@americas.surf Facebook@surfereye Jorge A. Russell. Professional photographer from Chile based in Jacó, Costa Rica. Specialist in outdoor photography, including surfing, and studio photography. Call: 8836-6475. Jorgerussellphotographer @gmail.com
C r e at i v e & a r t Terry Carlile m a r k e t i n g d i r e c t o r - Terry Carlile account executive Mary Fernández
E d i t o r i a l S ta f f Debbie Bride - Editorial Coordinator Laurie Quam - Copy Editor G r a p h i c D e s i g n - Terry Carlile c o v e r p h o t o - Perry Carlile Business Development John D. Lane. jdlanelcm@gmail.com H OW L E R ( ™ ) 2 0 1 7
C o n ta c t
John Quam - Managing Partner headmonkey@howlermag.com Editor: editor@howlermag.com Advertising: ads@howlermag.com Design: design@howlermag.com CR Office: (506) 4701-5942 Howler Magazine Costa Rica @howlercostarica @thehowlermag @howlermagazine The Howler Gold Coast CR S.A. Ced. Juridica: 3-101-725213 The opinions, beliefs and viewpoints expressed by the various authors in this publication do not necessarily reflect the opinions, beliefs and viewpoints of Howler organization or its advertisers. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission requests write to: info@howlermag.com. The Howler Magazine does not assume responsibility for the content of its advertisements. Images not credited are acquired from stock photography services.
Copyright © 2021 The Howler Gold Coast CR S.A. Copyright © 2021 Howler Media Holding, Inc. Panama The Howler Gold Coast CR S.A.
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Ced. Juridica: 3-101-725213 HOWLER (TM)2017
UP FRONT
COVER STORY
SURF SPOTS OLLIE’S POINT PLAYA HERMOSA, JACÓ MAL PAIS PLAYA NEGRA
TRAVEL & ADVENTURE FEATURED ADVENTURE A Road Trip to Sarapiquí CREATURE FEATURE The Graceful Dance of the Mobula Rays
SURFING CR
ACROBATICS OF THE FEARLESS Skimboarding Tide Chart Photo: Perry Carlile
ARTS, CULTURE & ENTERTAINMENT
CULTURAL HERITAGE Death and Dying in Costa Rica SURVIVING CR What Circle of Hell is This?
PURA VIDA/LIVING CR LIFESTYLE FEATURE Passion for Travel Leads Here to Stay BUILDING FEATURE Anatomy of a Costa Rica Dream Home MINDFULNESS Connect With the Spirit of Water
CR BIZ BUILDING CR Water Availability LEGALEASE Taxes for Rentals and CCSS ENTREPRENEUR CR How to Set Strong Business Intentions
UP FRONT
Endless Summer,
Endless Surf Spots
A Favorite Few of Many
COVER STORY
by John Quam
A
s many Howler readers are aware from past articles about Tamarindo surf legend Robert August, the 1994 movie Endless Summer II secured Costa Rica’s place thereafter as one of the top surf destinations on the planet. From world-class competitors to vacationers getting their feet wet with beginner lessons, wavebound travellers have been flocking here ever since.
If anyone can appreciate why this country was named “Rich Coast,” local and expat surfers likely have their own lists of favorite spots with special reasons. And they might only scratch the surface, as Howler has managed to do over the years in our always-popular Surf Spot column. Join us now in revisiting a favorite few of many.
Ollie’s Point Playa Hermosa Mal Pais Playa Negra
Photo: Cheboards
UP FRONT
Ollie’s Point Put on the map and made popular by the film Endless Summer II, Ollie’s Point, off of Costa Rica’s northern Guanacaste coast, was named after Oliver North. Howler’s fascinating March 2018 cover story, Ollie’s World, recounts the infamous U.S. lieutenant colonel’s role in the 1980s smuggling weapons to the Sandinistas during the Nicaraguan Civil War against the Contras. Ollie's Point is located a short distance to the north of Witch’s Rock, and is referred to in Spanish as Potrero Grande. This right-hand point break is one of the most sought-after places to surf in Costa Rica. Next to Santa Rosa National Park, it beckons surfers to a very isolated location accessible only by boat. It is recommended that your surfing ability should be in the range of good to experienced.
COVER STORY
Photo: Cheboards
Photo: Carlos Palacios
Mal Pais Located on the Nicoya Peninsula, Mal Pais and its nearby neighbor to the north, Santa Teresa, were recently voted by Forbes Magazine as “one of the 10 most beautiful beaches in the world.” This slow, relaxing village is a fishing town and is less developed than Santa Teresa. If you want serenity and to avoid the crowds, Mal Pais is the place. It has beautiful rocky beaches as well as stretches of sandy ones littered with sea shells. There are lots of water sports here besides surfing. Scuba diving, fishing, and kitesurfing are just some of the activities. Exploring the coastline and just relaxing in this paradise are good for your soul.
UP FRONT
Photo: Jorge Russell
Playa Hermosa, Jacó Hermosa means “beautiful” in Spanish. This beach and town fit that name well. The uncrowded beach is wide and over four miles long, perfectly lending itself to take a walk enjoying the salt mist and constant surf sound. It is not a good beach for swimming due to the dangerous riptides.
COVER STORY
Serious surfers love this place because of its big waves and quiet and uncrowded beaches. What more could you ask for? Putting Playa Hermosa on the map and making this a sought-after surfing destination was easy. In 2020 Playa Hermosa was designated the first World Surfing Reserve in Central America. Playa Hermosa is not recommended for beginner surfers. But Jacó, just five miles to the north, is a great place to learn.
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Playa Negra
A 2012 earthquake that lifted the tectonic plate changed the Playa Negra wave to have better form in the Just a short distance south of Tamarindo combination of higher tides and smaller in the Guanacaste Province, Playa Negra swells. is considered another one of the the best surf spots in Costa Rica. The closest town The area around Playa Negra has a lot to Playa Negra is Los Pargos, meaning “the of options for dining. The town can get snapper.” crowded because of its popularity and proximity to Tamarindo. This surf break is another place made famous by the Bruce Brown-directed movie Be aware of the currents; there are Endless Summer II. Easy to get to, Playa riptides in this area. Negra is considered one of the country’s best places to surf. It is a rock reef bottom and has a great right-hand barrel. A leftbreaking wave appears depending on the direction of the tides and swells. It is a constant surf spot year round due to its exposure to the northern and southern hemisphere swells.
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TRAVEL & ADVENTURE
A Road Trip to
SARAPIQUÍ The Other Side of the Mountain Article and photos by Tom Schultz
S
FEATURED ADVENTURE
arapiquí is an ecotourist’s dream — a vast expanse of tropical rain forest teeming with animals, bursting with vegetation and mercifully spared from the megaresorts and hordes of tourists found in many parts of Costa Rica. It’s renowned for its unspoiled forests, wild rivers and environmentally friendly ecolodges. Situated northeast of the Central Valley, the canton of Sarapiquí is not as well known as Guanacaste, Arenal, Monteverde, Manuel Antonio or even the Osa Peninsula, except among knowledgeable whitewater rafters and serious jungle researchers. It has in recent years become more popular, especially as a day trip or weekend destination for people in the Central Valley. We had heard there is surprisingly much to see and do in this northernmost part of the province of Heredia, so we set out on a grand circle tour that took both roads to and from Sarapiquí.
Leaving the always overcrowded highways of San José and Heredia, we drove north through the increasingly open and less crowded towns on route 126, which cuts between the Poás and Barva volcanoes. At the bottom of the La Paz Waterfall is a new and rather ugly bridge, which along with the scars on the mountain slopes, is a reminder of the terrible 2009 earthquake that destroyed this area, killing at least 34 and leaving some 64 people missing. Birding spot Near the top of the rise we stopped, and you should too, at the Cinchona Café Colibrí. The current structure is rebuilt on what was left after it was destroyed in the earthquake. The family that owns the restaurant has for many years put out hummingbird and fruit feeders, and the spot has become renowned in birding circles.
Black-throated trogon
Red-eyed tree frog
Blue morpho butterfly
Aerial tram soars above the treetops of Braulio Carrillo National Park
Yellow-throated toucan
TRAVEL & ADVENTURE
Tapirs are a poular Sarapiquí attraction
From there we started the long descent to the plains of Sarapiquí. The road roughly follows the border between Alajuela and Heredia provinces and the Sarapiquí River, which forms in the heights of Poás and gives the area its name. Looming to our right and covering almost all of southern Sarapiquí and the Barva Volcano is Braulio Carrillo National Park. We continued to drop out of the mountains on the Caribbean slope and entered the La Virgen section of Sarapiquí, where the region’s first big attraction is located — rafting and kayaking. The moderate Class III rapids are ideal for novices and families and offer plenty of opportunity for wildlife viewing on the calm stretches between thrilling rapids.
La Paz Waterfall Photo: James Kaiser
There are several operators — Sarapiquí Outdoor Center is a good one. If you want to make this the end of your first day in Sarapiquí, we can suggest the wonderful Sarapiquis Rainforest Lodge. The next day we continued up through La Virgen and headed toward Puerto Viejo (not to be confused with the Puerto Viejo on the south Caribbean coast). Along the way we stopped at one of the more curious attractions in the area: Dave and Dave’s Nature Park. The father and son U.S. expats who own this small reserve have worked it for years, restoring the forests and promoting second-growth forests. They have an interesting story and a tour that is not quite like those you usually find: You sit, you talk, you walk the trails, you drink coffee, and you photograph frogs and birds that you’d have a hard time seeing in other places. It’s a quirky and great way to spend a morning.
There is surprisingly much to see and do in this northernmost part of the province.
Caiman keeping watch on the river.
Golden-headed tanager
TRAVEL & ADVENTURE
The Graceful Danc
COOL PLACES FEATURE CREATURE
Mobula Rays
Do you know why do mobula rays jump out of the A. The vibrations from the engine tickles them B. Showing off for a potential mate C. Get rid of parasites D. Communicate with the other rays
ce of the
s
water?
by Howler Staff Photos: Christopher Penker
CRETURE FEATURE
TRAVEL & ADVENTURE
M
obula rays enjoy the warm, temperate seas around Costa Rica. These photos were taken in Drake Bay in May. Their appearance is similar to that of the manta rays, which are a part of the same family.
The reason why? To answer the opening question: b), c) and d).
They feast on plankton, which is their major food source. Mobula rays are not dangerous and rely on fast bursts of speed and their large body size for defense.
The biggest danger to these rays is the new market that has opened. They are heavily sought after for their gill plates used in Asian medicine. They are often slaughtered as bycatch in commercial fishing.
They capture the fascination of scuba divers, snorkelers and boaters as they jump individually, or sometimes in a group of dozens. Onlookers can witness an aerobatic display as they gracefully project themselves out of the water.
Mobula rays have to stay in perpetual motion to keep the water flowing through their gills to breathe.
Organizations like www. mantatrust.org can be researched for more information about conservation efforts.
CRETURE FEATURE
TRAVEL & ADVENTURE
Onlookers can witness an aerobatic display as they gracefully project themselves out of the water. Photos: Christopher Penker Instagram: wild_horizon_photography www.chrispenker.com Linktree: linktr.ee/wild_horizon/
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OCEAN
ADVENTURES See our sports fishing feature!
S E E T H I S C O L L E C T I O N O F C O S TA R I C A’ S R E C R E AT I O N
FISHING SAILING YACHTING BOATING
SURFIN G COSTA RICA
Skimboarding Cristobal Loria, a skimborder May 2021 at Playa Prieta Photo: Perry Carlile
MOON PHASES
July 1
3rd Quarter
JULY TIDE CHART Day
High
Low
High
Low
High
Thu 01
01:30 0.75 ft
07:58 8.68 ft
14:07 1.46 ft
20:18 7.85 ft
Fri 02
02:21 1.26 ft
08:51 8.36 ft
15:04 1.76 ft
21:14 7.41 ft
Sat 03
03:14 1.72 ft
09:45 8.11 ft
16:02 1.94 ft
22:13 7.11 ft
Sun 04
04:08 2.06 ft
10:39 7.96 ft
16:59 1.97 ft
23:11 6.98 ft
Mon 05
05:03 2.26 ft
11:31 7.93 ft
17:53 1.87 ft
July 9
Tue 06
00:07 7.01 ft
05:56 2.32 ft
12:20 8.00 ft
18:43 1.66 ft
New Moon
Wed 07
00:58 7.18 ft
06:46 2.25 ft
13:07 8.16 ft
19:29 1.38 ft
Thu 08
01:45 7.43 ft
07:33 2.08 ft
13:51 8.36 ft
20:11 1.09 ft
Fri 09
02:29 7.71 ft
08:18 1.86 ft
14:34 8.56 ft
20:51 0.82 ft
Sat 10
03:10 8.01 ft
09:00 1.61 ft
15:15 8.73 ft
21:30 0.60 ft
Sun 11
03:49 8.27 ft
09:42 1.39 ft
15:56 8.83 ft
22:08 0.46 ft
Mon 12
04:28 8.50 ft
10:23 1.20 ft
16:36 8.84 ft
22:46 0.39 ft
July 17
Tue 13
05:07 8.67 ft
11:04 1.06 ft
17:17 8.77 ft
23:25 0.41 ft
1st Quarter
Wed 14
05:46 8.80 ft
11:47 0.99 ft
17:59 8.62 ft
Thu 15
00:05 0.49 ft
06:28 8.87 ft
12:31 0.98 ft
18:43 8.41 ft
Fri 16
00:47 0.64 ft
07:12 8.89 ft
13:19 1.02 ft
19:31 8.16 ft
Sat 17
01:33 0.83 ft
08:00 8.87 ft
14:12 1.09 ft
20:24 7.92 ft
Sun 18
02:24 1.03 ft
08:53 8.83 ft
15:09 1.14 ft
21:23 7.73 ft
Mon 19
03:21 1.21 ft
09:52 8.83 ft
16:11 1.11 ft
22:28 7.69 ft
Tue 20
04:23 1.31 ft
10:55 8.89 ft
17:16 0.95 ft
23:34 7.83 ft
Wed 21
05:29 1.27 ft
11:58 9.05 ft
18:20 0.67 ft
July 23 Full Moon
SUNRISE JULY 1 JULY 3
5:25 am 5:32 am
Thu 22
00:38 8.15 ft
06:35 1.08 ft
13:00 9.28 ft
19:20 0.30 ft
Fri 23
01:39 8.57 ft
07:37 0.80 ft
13:57 9.52 ft
20:16 −0.05 ft
Sat 24
02:34 9.01 ft
08:34 0.52 ft
14:51 9.70 ft
21:07 −0.32 ft
Sun 25
03:26 9.36 ft
09:28 0.31 ft
15:42 9.74 ft
21:56 −0.44 ft
Mon 26
04:15 9.58 ft
10:19 0.23 ft
16:31 9.63 ft
22:42 −0.39 ft
Tue 27
05:03 9.62 ft
11:07 0.31 ft
17:18 9.36 ft
23:27 −0.16 ft
Wed 28
05:49 9.48 ft
11:54 0.54 ft
18:04 8.94 ft
Thu 29
00:10 0.22 ft
06:34 9.20 ft
12:40 0.87 ft
18:50 8.43 ft
Fri 30
00:54 0.72 ft
07:19 8.81 ft
13:27 1.26 ft
19:38 7.88 ft
Sat 31
01:37 1.26 ft
08:05 8.38 ft
14:16 1.65 ft
20:28 7.35 ft
SUNSET JULY 1 JULY 31
6:08 pm 6:06 pm
Browse all surfing articles:
SURFING COSTA RICA
SURF FEATURE
Skimboarding Acrobatics of the Fearless
Article and photos: Perry Carlile Location: Playa Prieta, Guanacaste
S
kimboarding originated in southern California, when Laguna Beach lifeguards wanted to surf the local shore breaks that were too fast and shallow for surfboards. It has developed into a sport of riding waves much like surfing. The fearless perform aerial maneuvers and pull into the barrel of the wave riding them back to shore. Professionals have even started getting towed by waverunners into much larger waves. The board used for skimming is much smaller without fins. Pitching the thin board down on the water surface, the rider glides across the surface in the attempt to meet an incoming wave and ride it back to shore. It’s amazing the maneuvers these skimboarders perform. Surface and air maneuvers, at various stages of their ride, out to, and back are just some examples. It is fun watching as they do “wraps,” “big spins,” “360 shove-its” and “180s.” Another aspect of skimboarding is “flatland,” which involves performing tricks derived from skateboarding such as ollies and shove-its on the wash of waves without catching shore breaks.
Cristobal Loria
Give it a try! Take some time and enjoy the acrobatics of the fearless.
SURFING COSTA RICA
SURF FEATURE
Kelly Vallejos
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ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT
Death and Dying in Costa Rica
Where Religious Tradition Meets Practical Necessity
F
uneral and burial practices in Costa Rica differ widely from those of western cultures. As Catholics by tradition, Costa Ricans believe the soul leaves the body at the moment of death so the deceased needs to be left alone to decompose. Embalming is rarely done, so immediate internment is necessary. Bodies may be stacked in graves and later moved to accommodate more bodies. This too is associated with revering the departed soul over their mortal remains. For insight, here is an overview of typical funeral events following the death of a Costa Rican community member.
CULTURAL HERITAGE
A vela, something akin to a wake, is taking place in Funeraria Atenas for an elderly woman who died the night before at the local clinic. Family members and friends are viewing her body in a chair-filled room, lifting their small children in attendance to view her. The children gaze without fear into the face of the lady.
by Mary Martin Mason Adapted by the author from her article published in Atenas Today, October 2015
Hearing the news As is traditional, this woman’s body has not been embalmed so burial, by necessity, must occur as soon as possible. Friends and family learned of her death through word of mouth. If she had been a woman of means, her obituary would have been printed in La Nación. A news announcement was aired on television as happens several times daily when Ticos stop everything and look up at the screen to see if someone they know has died. Family members have been at Funeraria Atenas all night, dressing and preparing the deceased woman’s body. For this funeral, the cause of death was determined by attending doctors at the clinic, so there was no need for an autopsy. In cases of accidental death or suicide, or if there is any question of cause, the police must be called, and most probably an autopsy must be performed by a pathologist.
By law, at least one family member must be present at the time the remains are removed.
If someone elderly dies in the night of what appears to be natural causes, discovered the following morning by family members, a doctor cannot pronounce the cause of death. Anyone dying outside a hospital must undergo an autopsy. The death certificate must be signed by someone in authority to provide the cause of death. A back room of Funeraria Atenas holds an array of caskets with cards listing the price, which includes flowers and transportation of the body to the church and from the church to the cemetery. The caskets are made narrow to fit into the limited grave spaces — 25 inches wide (three inches less than the standard North American casket), but a casket can be made to accommodate a larger person.
If we were to follow our recently deceased, immediately after the vela, her casket covered with flowers will be taken in a hearse to the church for a mass. At the end of the mass the family will announce the time and place when the novena — nine days of prayers — will begin. Then the pallbearers will carry the closed coffin, followed by those attending the funeral, on a long somber walk from the church, blocks away to the Atenas cemetery. Townspeople not in attendance will purposely clear the town square to ease traffic for the procession. since police do not provide traffic assistance.
ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT
What Circle of Hell is This? ATM a Dangerous Predator
T
SURVIVING CR
he circle of life so often depicted on the National Geographic Channel happens daily in Costa Rica. Toucans rob other birds’ nests and devour their little ones. Despite their reputation as herbivores, iguanas eat baby mice. Crocodiles consume people and iguanas. Ants line up with their grocery carts on my patio and take away my beautiful flora. Of the 200 mammalian species here, half are bats that nosh on insects. But the most dangerous predator of all, as I have learned on several occasions, is the ATM.
by Mary Martin Mason Originally published by Mango Musings on May 12, 2021
The process of using an Automatic Teller Machine appears straightforward. Here in Costa Rica, after standing in line, innocents enter a kiosk that houses the ATM. Once inside, after your card enters into the slot and is “read,” a series of prompts appear on the screen with questions such as whether you prefer English or Spanish and the kind of account you hold. Next you are directed to enter your PIN. That accomplished, you punch in the desired amount in colones or dollars and if you require a receipt. The ATM warns that a fee “may” be imposed or with some ATMs, the ransom required is automatically revealed. Simple, right?
Recently, I did a successful transaction, being rewarded with the colones that I immediately deposited in my purse. Unfortunately, I foolishly decided to tempt fate and do a second withdrawal of funds. Maybe I was distracted by the new feature of a Latina Alexa who was repeating the prompts in a language remotely resembling English. Maybe it was the nanosecond limit required to retrieve and then reinsert the card before beginning a new transaction. Perhaps it was payback for some horrible sin in my past. Here’s what happened in real time to my debit card.
Currently, Costa Rica is experiencing a Dickensian “worst of times.” The retrieval of lost cards by the guards who regularly service the ATM is no longer a daily occurrence. The lockdown in the Central Valley of Costa Rica is due to having more COVID-19 cases than hospital beds. Both religious and non-religious are to blame. Some families over-celebrated Semana Santa (Holy Week) with huge gatherings. Others continue to hold parties that resemble nightclubs when shown on television as the policia round up the offenders. Added to this is a gruelingly slow vaccination process.
No prompts appear after I insert the card for a second withdrawal. The lady speaking Croatian is silent. No matter how many times I punch CANCELAR, nothing happens. Nada. Nada. Nada. The hungry ATM has devoured the lifeline to fund my opulent lifestyle.
With newly imposed health restrictions, only essential services are provided, banks belonging to that category. The bank, when I arrive, has lines branching out in two directions. The guard saves me the wait, saying to return on Friday, the day the ATM is emptied of what I assume to be a butt load of credit and debit cards. Alas, it is only Monday!
In horror, I exit to inform the queue outside of my plight, shouting, “¡Perdi mi tarjeta! ¡Perdi mi tarjeta!” The folks in line feign sympathy about one of the numerous inconveniences that comprise the landscape. They direct me to go to the bank that owns and operates this ATM. I make my way to the center of town.
The hungry ATM has devoured the lifeline to fund my opulent lifestyle.
PURA VIDA / LIVING CR
PA S S I O N F O R T R AV E L L E A D S H E R E T O S TAY
I
LIFESTYLE FEATURE
t all began many years ago when my wife Nadene and I started travelling. We spent a few years exploring different Spanishspeaking countries including Mexico, Belize, Colombia, Panama, Nicaragua and Costa Rica.
Sponsored content Photo courtesy of Tres Amigos Realty Group
Some of our good friends sold everything they owned in Canada and moved to Costa Rica, so we decided to plan a trip to Playas del Coco to see what had attracted them to the area. We saw how exceptional Guanacaste really was, and in particular Playas del Coco. There was no doubt about it; we were hooked. After years of searching, we knew Costa Rica was going to be our new home. Now that we call Costa Rica home, we realize how much we love the relaxed pura vida lifestyle and the feeling we get when we return to this country after one of our many travel excursions. We always have the sense of “Ahh, we’re home.” Nadene and I have a passion for travel and love exploring the many beautiful sights around this area of Central America. Playas del Coco is the perfect location to use as a base because of the numerous attractions and adventures within an hour’s drive. We never get bored and are always on the go. One of our passions is to take off on a motorcycle adventure. Our BMW F800GS fits the bill. Sometimes our friends join us for day trips to the mountains or to explore beach towns like Tamarindo, Flamingo, Nosara, Samara, Santa Teresa and as far away as Golfito. We’re always on the hunt for dirt tracks in the back bush, which we usually find around the many volcanoes in Costa Rica. View from Mariner’s Point
PURA VIDA / LIVING CR
There was no doubt about it; we were hooked. My other passion.... Selling real estate in Costa Rica isn’t what I would call work. I have way too much fun meeting new people and showing them our little piece of paradise. I am proud to be associated with the Tres Amigos Realty Group, undeniably the best real estate team in Guanacaste. Selling real estate in the Playas del Coco area for 12 years has given me the experience and expertise to help you buy or sell your property. I’m affiliated with the Costa Rica Global Association of REALTORS (CRGAR), where I became a CRGAR-Licensed REALTOR. I’m also a member of The National Association of REALTORS (NAR), which sets a high standard for honesty and ethics in real estate transactions, two things I value above all else.
Let me help you find your piece of paradise regardless of budget. Costa Rica has everything from a small condo in a great community to a spectacular ocean view dream home, and everything in between. It has it all. It’s time to visit me in Costa Rica. Once you fall in love with this incredible country like I did, you won’t want to leave. Please take a minute to check out my website at: www.livingthedreamcostarica. com For vacation rentals, Nadene would be happy to assist you. CLICK HERE for her website.
LIFESTYLE FEATURE
‘Ahh, we’re home’ Roland Tipper rolandtipper@gmail.com www.livingthedreamcostarica.com www.playasdelcocoproperty.com Direct Number: +1 (206) 905-9948 Cell: +1 (506) 8371-1522
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Anatomy of a Costa Rican Dream Home
BUILDING FEATURE
by Norm Schriever
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or those of you who make the life-changing move down to Costa Rica, at some point your thoughts turn to buying a home. And for those intrepid expats who want to really squeeze the marrow out of life in paradise, that may include purchasing property and building their dream house. It’s certainly a dream I’ve had, constructing a rugged-yet-modern bungalow on a well-jungled hill that meanders down to the ocean. There, I can lie on my hammock by the infinity pool, sipping on a Flor de Caña con ginger ale as I watch yet another painted pastel sunset. Once we start the process of planning our dream home, the imagination takes flight. A house that almost completely opens up to the outdoors? A tree in the center of your foyer? An outdoor shower under the stars? A swing in the middle of your living room? The possibilities are nearly endless. However, we also can’t forgo the practical. There’s a whole lot more to think about (and get right) than when we buy a home in our native countries. So, to gain some insight into building your dream home in Costa Rica, I enlisted the help of four renowned architects, designers and builders who live and work in the land of pura vida. Enjoy this brief Q and A with these experts about the anatomy of a dream home.
“We should attempt to bring nature, houses, and human beings together in a higher unity.” — Ludwig Mies van der Rohe
PURA VIDA/CR LIVING
María de Guadalupe Montero
Jake Magnus
Hailing from the ultra-cosmopolitan scene in San José, Maria de Guadalupe attended Universidad Veritas to study architecture. She went on to work at highly-esteemed PIASA Consultores as well as VOID Architecture.
Australian architect, designer, and creative catalyst, Jake Magnus started working in Costa Rica with the iconic John Osborne in his studio, Osarq. Recently, Jake launched his own creative studio, Tierra Perma, where he focuses on clients with ecological/social ethical agendas.
Email: gmonteror.arq@gmail.com How would you define traditional Costa Rica architecture? After Costa Rica was colonized, our culture — and therefore our style — was greatly influenced by what other big cities were developing. We often took the language of foreign architecture and translated it into our own, but with concessions for our climate, available resources, etc.
BUILDING FEATURE
Therefore, the Costa Rican architectural aesthetic can be quite diverse, from weird finds like beautiful Victorian houses in the center of San José to stern concrete buildings influenced by the Soviets during the Cold War.
Visit www.jakemagnus.com What one word would you use to define Costa Rica architectural style? Tropical. Our climate allows us a great freedom that is not possible in many parts of the world. Architecture here is defined by a desire to enjoy and experience our environment, even questioning what is “inside” and “outside.” Therefore, most projects feature open-plan and open-air living with a strong connection and relationship to the natural surroundings.
Feel free to contact Jake, Mel questions or want help buildi
Photo courtesty of Tres Amigo Realty View from Villa Vista Azul, Ocotal Bay
Melissa Araya
Tom Terry
CFIA-registered architect and co-founder of AVarq Studio, one of the most innovative architecture firms in Costa Rica, Melissa Araya stands at the intersection between art and technology. She focuses on creating a connection with the environment when designing a home.
Owner of ConstrucTom, Tom Terry arrived in Costa Rica from California by sailboat in 1992. He has lived here ever since, building at least 60 homes and structures from San Juan del Sur to Playa Langosta and all over the Papagayo Peninsula.
Visit avarq.net How do you account for the natural elements here in Costa Rica that the typical homeowner may not think about? Natural elements are the primary basis of my designs. For instance, one of the most important considerations is the type of soil existing on the lot. By conducting a soil study, I can then define the type of foundation, drainage, filtration for septic tanks and water absorption tolerances. I also consider the solar path, wind direction, ventilation and existing vegetation in order to design a unique environment that is totally coupled to its natural conditions. Those are things the client or homeowner may not notice at first but are paramount!
lissa, or Tom if you have further ing your dream home!
Visit www.constructom.com What elements do a lot of your clients want? Are there certain trends? The clients I’ve built for the last 27 years here in Costa Rica have varied greatly, but one thing they all tend to desire is a home that opens up to the environment and delivers an epic view. There’s a saying in my field that a home is only as good as its view at sunset!
D ca
What elements do a lot of your clients want? Are there certain tren
The clients I’ve built for the last 27 years here in Costa Rica have varied thing they all tend to desire is a home that opens up to the environment view. There’s a saying in my field that a home is only as good as its view
Designed By Cañas Arquitectos anasarquitectos.com
nds?
d greatly, but one t and delivers an epic at sunset! - Tom
PURA VIDA/LIVING CR
English and Spanish
Connect With the Spirit of Water A 21-Day Proposal to Purify and Heal by Laura Méndez
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ater heals. Water offers us the purest of the medicines and its power is subtle and deep.
MINDFULNESS
This is an intimate and simple proposal: for 21 days we honor the water of life as a purifying and healing force of body, mind and spirit. This personal practice brings awareness that we are a network united by the same intention. A friend who is also a medicine man shared this water ceremony with me. Upon waking in the morning, the first thing I do is to prepare myself a glass of water. I go outside — preferably with bare feet on the ground — and holding that glass of water I pray to her. I ask for what I want that day. Sometimes it’s specific and other times broader or even vague. Sometimes I pray for people in need, sometimes for nature. When I’m done, I drink that water, thus drinking my prayers.
So I’m proposing this for us to do collectively during the following 21 days. Before drinking our water in the morning, take time to open an intimate space with water. 1. Prepare our glass with water. 2. Connect with the spirit of water. 3. Hold our glass with both hands near our heart. 4. Make sure we set up the intention of purification and pray to the water. 5. Sing to the water, if it resonates with us. 6. With all our heart we ask water to remove all toxic information from our cells. We drink our water slowly, each sip consciously. We do so to: • Connect with the healing power of water. • Listen to messages. • Heal our wounds.
When I’m done, I drink that water, thus drinking my prayers.
PURA VIDA/LIVING CR • Open the channel through which our emotions flow to eliminate what is not, and welcome what is. • Honor our water. • Take care of our body. • Nurture our soul. • Take care of our roots. • Connect with the source of life in us. • Take the strength of our ancestors. • Feel the eternal bond that unites us and remains. • Remember our essence. • Take care of our sovereignty. Know that we are doing this collectively, raising the awareness towards this life-giving element in which all life has begun. To close the ceremony we say thank you. I will share a few prayers you can also use. • ¨For the purification of the waters of our planet, and the purification on the waters of our bodies, thank you, thank you, thank you¨
• “Water of reconciliation, you who unite everything, you, who both inside and outside sustain us in life, we honor you.” • “Thank you water, for being the unifying thread of our life, memory of our lineage. You are our blood, the voice of those who gave us life, the voice of those who left. You, who are the continuity of existence in the heart of love, we honor you.” • “Water of life, may your memory help us remember how to love each other, how to unite. May your healing power heal our wounds, our fear, our pain. May your wisdom inspire us and help us reconcile with the pain of loss, with what has gone, with what is leaving.”
SHOPPING ONLINE IN THE USA C ONT A C T S Tamarindo: 8676-2213 • tamarindo@libertyexpress.cr Nosara: 8628-2441 • nosara@libertyexpress.cr Playa Hermosa: 7130-0485 • playahermosa@libertyexpress.cr
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CR BIZ
by Rick Philps
Water Availability WHY IS IT A MAJOR CONCERN WHEN BUILDING?
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BUSILDING CR
hen considering building a home in Costa Rica, you might expect water availability to be the least of your concerns. After all, it’s a tropical country with bountiful rainfall in the wet season. How could there be any issues relating to potable water supply? Unfortunately, in many parts of the country, this cannot be taken for granted. The availability of potable water will equal, if not exceed, your concern for a suitable building location, particularly in the dryer parts of the country.
Unfortunately, many otherwise suitable building sites fail for the want of legal access to potable water.
The requirement to conduct legal due diligence regarding potable water availability in a chosen building site cannot be overstated. Proprietary rights vested in the state In Costa Rica, the proprietary right to manage and allocate the country’s potable water reserves is vested in the state. The main governmental water regulatory authority is known as AyA — short for “Acueductos y Alcantarillados”, or in English, Water and Sewer Systems. This is the mother water regulatory body for the management and distribution of water in Costa Rica.
Community-based water regulatory associations known as ASADAS — short for “Asociaciones Administradoras de los Sistemas de Acueductos y Alcantarillados Comunales” — exist in many urbanized rural parts of the country. They manage local water systems in their local area of jurisdiction, but are subordinate to the jurisdiction of AyA. Private wells are granted by government concession and registered in the national water well registry known as SENARA, short for “Servicio Nacional de Aguas Subterráneas, Riego y Avenamiento.” They exist on individual private properties, where permitted by MINAE, the Ministry of the Environment. In dryer parts of the country, such as Guanacaste province, private drilling of wells is prohibited in many areas. Letter required for municipal building permit In order to obtain a building permit from the municipality that has jurisdiction over your intended building location, you must provide an official letter of authority from the applicable local water regulatory authority. Alternatively, you need proof of a registered well concession having been granted for private property, indicating there will be a suitable source of potable water available for the intended construction.
This letter of authority must be submitted to the municipality, along with a set of architect-approved building plans, at the time of the building permit application. Normally, at the time of purchase, the purchaser would request such a letter of authority from the building lot seller as a part of the required due diligence. If not, it is imperative that the buyer’s due diligence demonstrates, at the time of purchase, that such a letter of authority will be available when the building permit application is made. My opinion Unfortunately, many otherwise suitable building sites fail for the want of legal access to potable water. In my opinion, although difficult to regulate, rainwater capture for the independent potable water source of a particular property would be a solution in many situations when water is unavailable from traditional sources. To date, municipalities have not recognized rainwater capture as a viable alternative source of potable water for issuing a building permit.
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CR BIZ
RENTAL PROPERTIES
Taxes and Formal Duties
by Ivan Granados
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ith the substantial number of rental properties in Costa Rica, it is important for owners who rent their properties out to be aware of, and be reminded of, legal changes that were effective in 2018. In addition, changes to the Ley de Fortalecimiento de las Finanzas Públicas (Law #9635) came into effect in 2019. Per the resolution N° DGT-R-012-2018, the CR tax authorities established the mandatory use of the electronic invoice system for all taxpayers, including real estate rentals, starting September 1, 2018. Non-compliant rental property owners are subject to a penalty and fines. Before the approval of the Law #9635, the applicable income tax was calculated on the company’s annual profit: income, less expenses, within the fiscal year. These income taxes were filed annually through a D-101 form and long-term rentals were not taxed with Value Added Tax (VAT).
LEGAL EASE
With approval of the Law #9635, income tax on rental properties will now be filed monthly through a D-125 form. The law allows that: 1. 15% of expenses from the rental income can be without proof. 2. This creates a tax base of 85% from the rental income.
3. The tax rate is 15% of the tax base (85% of rental income). Residential rentals will be taxed 13% VAT if the rent amount exceeds 1.5 the average Costa Rica base salary income (around USD $1,085). Any commercial leases are subject to the VAT regardless of the amount of the monthly rent. Monthly, property owners must withhold, file and pay VAT using the D-104 tax form: 13% of the rental income paid by the renter. Also monthly, the owners must file and pay income tax via form D-125 tax as outlined above. For example: • Renter pays $2,000 USD for rental, plus 13% VAT = $260 • Expenses allowed by law 15% of rental income = $300 • Tax base = $1,700 • Income tax to be paid = $255 ($1,700 x 15%)
Employer requirements There is one exception that will allow taxpayers to continue annual tax filing (form D-101). They must have an employee on the payroll that is duly registered in both Caja Costarricense de Seguro Social (CCSS, or social security) and Instituto Nacional de Seguros” (INS, or workers compensation insurance). This can be evaluated in each case due to the labor liabilities. These obligations relating to legal employees are worth mentioning: 1. Associated payroll taxes are around 28% of the employee’s gross salary. 2. Workers compensation is, on average, 2% depending on the job description. 3. The Christmas bonus — Aguinaldo — is mandatory on an annual basis. It is 1/12th of the total gross salary. 4. Two weeks paid vacation is also mandatory
The list above covers very basic payroll requirements. A registration form, including copies of the employee’s ID, must be submitted within eight days of hiring a new employee to avoid fines and penalties before CCSS and INS. It is highly advisable to have a written labor agreement that details salary, hours, work description and all other relevant matters. It is important to fully understand the tax and labor laws relating to renting property and hiring personnel for a rental property, such as a maid, housekeeper or maintenance person. For assistance, we are at your service at info@gmattorneyscr.com
It is important to fully understand the tax and labor laws relating to renting property.
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 29
SUMMER VACATION GAME PLAN Fun for Kids, Happy for You, Healthy for Your Business by Joanna Blanco
Welcome, July!
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ids start their long summer vacations, likely feeling happy and free with the prospect of no school for six to eight weeks. But most business-owner parents will not have the same amount of vacation time. So that gives us two priorities for the school break: keep our business going and keep our kids busy. Here are some ideas that can help make sure your kids stay active, healthy, and happy.
1. Summer camps These are great solutions for parents with full-time jobs, no space in their office, or young kids that demand a lot of attention. There may be a variety of choices around your home area. Check out each place carefully, especially regarding safety. Try to find others who have sent their kids to the summer camps you have in mind. Ask for recommendations and answers to all your questions to make sure it’s the right place for your kids.
ENTREPRENEUR CR
2. Create a small group and hire a teacher Some teachers stay in the area for the summer and work as babysitters. If you have enough space in your home, consider inviting one or two of your kids' friends to create a small group — you can call it “home summer camp.” The teacher you hire can prepare an excellent schedule of fun activities to keep the kids busy. It’s important to negotiate a reasonable rate for the group size and number of hours. 3. Create a schedule for your kids If you can keep your kids at home while you work, it’s advisable to prepare a schedule of what they can and cannot do at certain times of day. Kids today have a lot
of access to electronics and the internet. So, as a precaution against any misuse of electronics and internet access, set the rules: when they are allowed to use electronic devices and for how long at a time. It’s important to actually come up with a list of activities for your kids that are great non-electronic alternatives. Let me suggest some ideas: • • • • • • •
Sport classes Art classes Cooking classes Reading Math practice Summer journal writing Science experiments
• Play dates • Go around the world — pick different countries to learn about As a business owner, I need to continue with my work responsibilities. However, during the summer, I like to give myself extra time to be with my kid. That is why I follow these few steps: 1. Every Sunday, I prepare my schedule for the week ahead. 2. Start work earlier each day — at least 30 minutes — to advance essential tasks. 3. Confirm all client visits or calls during times when my kid is at summer camp or attending a class.
4. Do grocery shopping for the next two weeks. 5. Cook for more than one meal at a time — enough for today and tomorrow, or freezer portions. Get my kid involved in the cooking. 6. Don’t skip my regular physical activity. I schedule it for early morning before my kid wakes up, while she is at camp or in a class, or when we can do it together. 7. Have time to relax and have fun with my kid. It’s vacation time, and I want to enjoy it too!
I am pleased to share these links to help you plan a fun summer for your kids: Smart Summer Activities For Kids | POPSUGAR Family Summer Bucket List For Kids | POPSUGAR Family Summer Crafts for Kids | Parents The Best Nature Crafts for Kids | Martha Stewart
For more detailed information or any help, please contact me at any time: joannablanco@vivesattva.com and follow me on Facebook and Instagram
Remember to make sure your own schedule includes “have fun!”
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