Costa Rica Howler August 2022 International Digital Magazine by Howler Media Holding, Inc.

AUGUST 2022

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Playas del Coco www.playasdelcocoproperty.com 2670-2175 Playa Panama prestigecostaricaproperties.com 2670-2175

Playa Hermosa www.tresamigos-cr.com 2672-4100

Lisa Farrell

Trading Paradises

Joseph Emanuelli Never Looked Back

Herb DeMars

Snowbirds in Paradise

Alain Mouquet A French Canadian Welcome

Theo Veenstra It's a Lifestyle

Michael Mills The Adventures Continue

Explore our listings:e Will Mathews

Not a Cliche'

UP FRONT

Welcome to

Green Season by John Quam

an you believe that half the year is already in the past? As the world is in flux with the economy, many are still planning vacations. And many are planning moves to new and exciting places like Costa Rica. With the lockdown’s impact over the past couple of years, people are anticipating spreading their wings and getting out and living once again. The planes arriving here from all over the world have been full. This is a great sign economically for Costa Rica. The tourism industry here is a driving force for Costa Rica’s economy and employs many service providers.

EDITORIAL

I often say that if we have survived the past couple of years, then we can survive almost anything.

After many companies have made it possible to work remotely, their employees have figured out that they are not confined to the region where their previous workplace is located. With good internet access, those employees can work from almost any corner of the world. Costa Rica’s long-awaited law welcoming digital nomads has finally been passed and ratified by the government. This exciting news allows many the ability to move here with limited residency and tax benefits. This new law is good for those who want to visit and live here for a while. It also brings much-needed money into the economy of Costa Rica. When people live here, they purchase goods and services, putting money into the regions where locals are employed. A healthy economy makes for a better experience for those living here, and also those traveling to see the wonders Costa Rica offers.

We will soon be entering into what is normally considered a slow tourist season that brings rain and is referred to as green season. I see indications of a surprising boom this year, with many taking advantage of the travel opportunities here. Guanacaste has the largest number of visitors in Costa Rica throughout the year. And it is known for being the driest region in the country. Guanacaste is also a base for people to begin their tours of other regions. We affectionately refer to the rainy season as “the green season.” Yes, it is for the sake of marketing, but is not meant to be deceptive. People shouldn’t be fearful of not having an enjoyable time in Costa Rica at this time of year. In fact, it’s a wonderful time to travel and see nature. The lush greens are not seen in Guanacaste during the high (and dry) season of travel from December through April.

High season travel is going to be noticeably more active here, faster than you can imagine. It is wise to plan your trips now. At this time of year, the deals for booking high-season travel are much better. Rates will gradually get more expensive as we approach the 2023 high season. Hundreds of articles have been curated online over the years at howlermag.com. Anyone wanting to make plans can find vast amounts of helpful information. We encourage you to take the time to explore Howler’s Travel and Adventure section, and also other tabs that can help guide your quest for adventure. We always welcome questions, suggestions and comments. This helps us produce content that is relevant to you, and also helps others who are searching. We hope to see you during this green season, and also in 2023. Let us know about your experiences and be a part of Howler.

During the high season, I hear tourists saying, “this is paradise.” But seeing the green landscapes and flowers, and all the nature, Contact me personally at headmonkey@ now is so wonderful. I implore you, don’t miss howlermag.com this time of year; it holds even more wonders. Most areas of Costa Rica remain green all year round, with sufficient rainfall and humidity levels. Diverse micro-climates exist throughout the country, and each one offers different things for the traveling experience.

John B. Quam

UP FRONT

HOWLER T r o o p

s one of the world’s top three travel destinations, Costa Rica rewards those who plan ahead, while still allowing for plenty of spontaneity. With fall 2022 approaching, and another new year on its heels, now is the time to start checking out your options. Howler is an exceptional resource for researching must-do activities in can’t-miss locales from coast to coast. Even for those who can’t spend more than seven days here in paradise, it’s possible to sample a remarkable variety of sights and experiences. The key is to organize your trip in proximity to one of Costa Rica’s two international airports. Howler is happy to show you how to map out your itinerary from either landing spot, San José or Liberia. We also take you this month to the storied San Lucas prison island, an iconic San José soda, and some urban street art scenes. And our top-trekking contributor, Tom Schultz, shares highlights of his travels much further afield in Uganda.

FEATURED CONTRIBUTOR With the 2022 rainy season bringing no shortage of moisture and insects, Howler’s August issue features relevant pet care advice from Dr. Gilberth Cavallini and his colleague Dr. Leticia Cajal at Cavallini Veterinary Hospital in Villarreal. Besides

contributing many previous Howler articles geared to pet owners, Dr. Cavallini has strived to raise awareness of concerns relating to vulnerable animals in Guanacaste, including all manner of ill and injured wildlife, as well as homeless dogs and cats. This is consistent with the Costa Rica native’s tireless professional and volunteer efforts in the interest of animal well-being in the community. After receiving specialized wildlife care training at the University of London, he became the first veterinarian to set up practice in the Tamarindo vicinity 16 years ago. He also founded the nonprofit charitable organization Halfway Home, a volunteerrun refuge for rescued animals, in restored good health and awaiting adoption by a forever family. Read about Dr. Cavallini’s dream-come-true African trip in 2019, with the nonprofit animal conservation group Vets Go Wild.

WRITERS Sylvia Barreto Benites. Writer, teacher, tutor and founding director of IREN Renaissance Institute, a Costa Rican nonprofit organization focused on innovative learning solutions for children and adults. To this role she brings a Masters degree in education and more than 25 years of experience in public, private and alternative classrooms, both in New York and Costa Rica. Joanna Blanco. Integrative nutritional health coach who helps clients embrace wellness in five interconnected areas of life: relationships, livelihood, physical activity, spiritual awareness and diet.

HOWLER

AUGUST 2022 Vol. 31 No. 8

PUBLISHER / EDITOR-in-CHIEF John B. Quam e x e c u t i v e d i r e c t o r - Terry Carlile John Brockmeier. Writer and activist inspired by diverse interests and international life experiences.

account executive Mary Fernández

Alei Burns. The Bookstore of the Waves owner, New York-raised librarian, passionate book and surf lover.

E d i t o r i a l S ta f f Debbie Bride - Editorial Coordinator Laurie Quam - Copy Editor

Dr. Leticia Cajal. Works at Cavallini Veterinary Hospital in Villarreal, and is a veterinary medicine graduate of the University of Zaragoza in Spain. Charlene Golojuch. Co-owner of Hidden Garden Art Gallery with husband, Greg. www.HiddenGardenArt.com Ivan Granados. Managing Partner at GM Attorneys, specializing in real estate and corporate law. igranados@gmattorneyscr.com Karl Kahler. Author of "Frommer's Costa Rica 2017," former travel editor of the Tico Times and former national editor of California's San Jose Mercury News. Laura Méndez. Founder of Pura Vida Vibrations. Offering sound journeys, breathwork experiences, cacao ceremonies & other activities. hello@ puravidavibrations.com Daniel Oses. Attorney at GM Attorneys. Jim Parisi. Runs the nonprofit Tamarindo Book Swap and former owner of Jaime Peligro Bookstore. Long-time Tamarindo resident for 16 years. jaimepeligro123@hotmail.com Rick Philps. Canadian who practiced law in Victoria, BC before moving to Costa Rica in 1998. He has practiced law here for 17 years, having continued his education in civil law and notary and registry law. Offers legal due diligence seminars and consultations in the Gold Coast area for expats moving, or considering moving to Costa Rica. Contact rick@ costaricacanadalaw.com or visit www.costaricacanadalaw.com John Quam. Howler Magazine Owner, Publisher and Editor-in-Chief, who has called Costa Rica home for eight years. Tom Schultz. BS Biology and Geology, avid birder and nature photographer, retired software executive. tom@pananima.com

H OW L E R ( ™ ) 2 0 1 7

C o n ta c t

John Quam - Managing Partner headmonkey@howlermag.com Editor: editor@howlermag.com Advertising: terry@howlermag.com Design: design@howlermag.com CR Office: (506) 4701-5942 Howler Magazine Costa Rica @howlercostarica @thehowlermag @howlermagazine The Howler Gold Coast CR S.A. Ced. Juridica: 3-101-725213 The opinions, beliefs and viewpoints expressed by the various authors in this publication do not necessarily reflect the opinions, beliefs and viewpoints of Howler organization or its advertisers. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission requests write to: info@howlermag.com. The Howler Magazine does not assume responsibility for the content of its advertisements. Images not credited are acquired from stock photography services.

Read all current and past articles online howlermag.com #S earch F ind Howl

Ced. Juridica: 3-101-725213 HOWLER (TM)2021

COVER STORY

Time to Travel!

• A Week is All? We've Got You Covered • Flying into San José for that Region's Best • Landing in Liberia Provides Unlimited Regional Opportunities

UP FRONT: • Welcome to Green Season

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

• Out of Africa • San Lucas Island • The Full Diamante

SURFING CR

• Tide Chart, Sun and Moon Schedule • Featured best surf location video stories

REAL ESTATE

• Why is it Important to Work with an Experienced Real Estate Agent and LongStanding Real Estate Company in Costa Rica? • In Love With Costa Rica's featured properties • Alex Presents Reserva Conchal Llama Del Bosque Lot

ARTS, CULTURE & ENTERTAINMENT

• Soda Tapia • Exploring San José Through Urban Art • Gardens With Wings

PURA VIDA

• Ayurvedic Medicine • Let's Prepare Our Pets in Rainy Season

CR BUSINESS

• What are the Social Compromises Necessary for Expats Moving to Live in Costa Rica? • Do You Live in a Condo Complex? • 30 Actions That Take 5 to 10 Minutes

Click on the section to go directly to those pages.

UP FRONT

It’s Time to Make Your Plans to Travel! COVER STORY

by John Quam

Are you having luck or getting stuck?

t's time to make your travel plans … and you’ve decided to look into what Costa Rica has to offer. Did you know that Costa Rica is one of the world’s top three vacation designations? You're now checking out package deals for airfare and lodging, and the many possibilities for awesome adventures. Are you having luck or getting stuck? Whether it’s a fall break, Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Year’s holiday, or 2023 vacation, Howler has the resources to assist you in your planning.

What makes Costa Rica so amazing is the variety of geographic features and regions you can visit, from beaches, cool mountains and large towns to rural and remote communities. So it does take some research to understand the opportunities. You start to search online for choices and quickly find a variety of Facebook groups, adventure tour companies, and resorts that are all rolling out the red carpet for you. Information overload may seem to bog you down, but there’s an excellent reward for proper planning.

UP FRONT Here are some basics to keep in mind: • Which region? • Which airport? Consider the proximity of your desired destinations to either of Costa Rica’s international airports: Liberia (LIR) or San José (SJO). • Where to stay: hotel, resort, bed and breakfast or rental home? • Kid-friendly and pet-friendly options? • Car rental service? • National parks to tour? • Adventures to book? There are so many options for surfing, fishing, sailing, hiking, zip lining and more. Open this link and connect to your large screen TV and show your family. • Best sodas (local authentic food) and other restaurants to visit? • Groceries, gas stations, spas, stores, and medical clinic locations? • Do you want the big touristy towns or the small rural settings? • Do you just want to lay in a hammock and listen to the waves gently crash on the shore? Whatever your budget and time parameters, you can experience a combination of some of the most relaxing and adventurous experiences.

COVER STORY

Use Howler as a resource. Over 25 years of taking Costa Rica to the world.

A Week is All?

We’ve Got You Covered Making the Most of Your Time in Costa Rica by Howler Staff

There are more possibilities than you might think.

eady to travel? Explore what Howler has in the way of articles that can help you make plans for an exquisite getaway. Not everyone has the luxury of time to travel and see everything. There is so much to see and travel times between locations can eat up lots of your vacation. Naturally, the more time you are able to spend in Costa Rica, the better. When it comes to infinite possibilities for enjoying your visit here, never be deceived by the relatively small size of this country on the world map. You will never run out of places to go or things to do during a stay lasting from two weeks to two months or longer. If a shorter trip is all you can manage, 10 days may be preferable on the minimum end of the scale.

However, don’t rule out the opportunity to get a great taste of Costa Rica if limited to just a week. There are more possibilities than you might think. Whether your international flight lands and takes off from San José or Liberia, either Costa Rican hub has you covered for an unforgettable seven-day vacation. With a limitless variety and number of choices, we’re giving you a sense of some popular places that are no more than three hours away from each home base. All are easy to research online, including at howlermag. com. Take advantage of the time you have now to check them out. Hope to see you soon!

Click for more

UP FRONT Discover More We’ve Covered Before

Central Valley

This e-magazine cover story only touches on some of the most popular tourist attractions that could be sampled during a seven-day trip plan based out of San José or Liberia. Links to online Howler articles are provided in quite a few instances. Below, we’ve listed more howlermag. com links for discovering places you might also consider visiting in the regions closest to one or the other city. Specific locales are grouped by regional location San José or Liberia,

San Juan Santamaria Historical Cultural Museum Tapanti: Remote and Reachable Day Hike from San José On the Road to Shambahla: Providencia and San Geraldo de Dota Costa Rica's Shangri-La: Los Quetzales National Park Road Trip: Central Valley to Puntarenas, then to Santa Teresa via the Puntarenas ferry Road Trip: Cartago through the Orosi Valley The Top 5 Things to Do in Cartago, Costa Rica Atenas Sports a New Town Sign Hello, I’m Atenas

Getting Around Adventure Connections Skybound: Flying Costa Rica’s Airstrips Bus Trip Tips: Ten Pointers for a Smoother Ride The Local Bus San José The Jade Museum: A Voyage of Art Through History Museos Del Banco Central de Costa Rica (PreColumbian Gold and Numismatic) Chepe Cletas: Stroll, Cycle, See Learn and Enjoy Your Way Carpe Chepe: A Local’s Tour of San José Hop On La Carreta with Carpe Chepe Art City Tour El Mercado Central de San José: The Heart of the City Caribbean Coast

COVER STORY

Lifting Disabled Barriers to Cajuita’s Beauty

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Central Pacific - Nicoya Peninsula La Iglesia de San Blas: The Oldest Church in Costa Rica Painting the Town Jacó: A Surf City that Became an Art Gallery Cruising In Style to Isla Tortuga: Luxury-Infused Adventure Magical Manuel Antonio: Seven Reasons to Love This Area Santa Teresa Time: Just While Away Your Day Around the Gulf: Puntarenas to Nicoya Peninsula Hell Hotel: San Lucas Island Prison Top 5 Attractions in Puntarenas, Costa Rica

Guanacaste

Multiple Locales

Top 5 Ways to Enjoy Playas del Coco Road Trip: La Fortuna to Monteverde, Around Lake Arenal El Farallón Petroglyphs Hidden Gallery Art Gallery

Nine Unusually Cool Things to Do in Costa Rica Where the Rivers Meet the Sea Military Makeovers Honor Culture of Peace

UP FRONT

Flying into San José for that Region's Best Making the Most of Your Time in Costa Rica

By Jim Parisi & Alei Burns

tarting and ending your visit to Costa Rica from the country’s busiest arrival and departure point, Juan Santamaría International Airport is about 20 minutes from the heart of the capital city, San José.

Do not be in any hurry to leave San José without immersing yourself in its bustling urban landscape for a day or two. Tradition and culture are yours to enjoy at every street corner.

COVER STORY

With no less than 20 museums, San José will captivate visitors of all ages with an interest in Costa Rica’s rich heritage. Here are just a few popular examples.

National Museum of Costa Rica Although no longer the country's largest museum, it still offers the widest diversity of exhibits. The floor plan for artifact collections has been meticulously detailed to represent a timeline from pre-Columbian history through the colonial and industrial eras, and into the 20th and 21st centuries. The museum also features a splendid terrace view of the entire city.

COVER STORY

UP FRONT Children's Museum of Costa Rica This remarkably transformed former prison facility is now a happy and welcoming place for kids and adults alike to enjoy spending hours. Galleries and hands-on exhibits engage visitors in learning about science, technology, history, literature and culture. There is even a funhouse with an earthquake simulator. Peace Museum This relatively new museum is run by the Arias Foundation for Peace and Human Progress, showcasing Costa Rica’s achievements in promoting social change throughout Central America. It was established in 1992 through the foundation’s monetary proceeds from the Nobel Peace Prize awarded five years earlier to Costa Rica’s long-time President Oscar Arias. We also urge you not to miss these San José attractions.

Inside the National Theater

National Theater of Costa Rica Even if your schedule doesn’t allow you to take in a performance of live theater, music or dance, the museum and cafe alone are worth the visit to one of Costa Rica’s most prominent architectural treasures. The resplendent baroque landmark, inaugurated in 1897, is located next to the Plaza de la Cultura. San Isidro of Coronado Church Prepare to be awestruck by this neoGothic architectural wonder, almost 140 years old. Your jaunt to Coronado, on the outskirts of San José, is one you will not regret for the chance to behold a church that ranks high on the most-beautiful-in-Costa Rica lists.

Nature not far away For a change of pace, your seven-day itinerary must include some nature-infused experiences. Fortunately, these can be found reasonable distances away from San José in different compass point directions. That includes distinctly different options for volcano enthusiasts, all easy day trips about 90 minutes away. About 50 kilometers northwest of the capital is Poás Volcano National Park, housing one of the world’s largest geyser craters in a breathtaking cloud forest setting. The view overlooking the crater can still be described as otherworldly, despite drastic landscape transformations caused by a significant volcanic eruption in April 2017. To compare what visitors could view and experience before that event and after the national park was deemed safe to reopen 18 months later, click this Howler article link: Poás Revisited: Two Trips, 10 Years Apart

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La Paz Waterfall Gardens is a rewarding destination for tourists whose travel schedule is too compressed for sightseeing throughout many regions of the country. It’s an ideal day trip from San José, either on its own or in combination with a visit to Poás Volcano National Park. The oft-described magical excursion encompasses five stunning waterfalls, bromeliad and hummingbird gardens and a magnificent wildlife sanctuary incorporating the world’s largest butterfly observatory, a serpentarium and a frog pond.

UP FRONT Irazu, Costa Rica’s tallest volcano, is 55 kilometers east of San José. Two of the four craters are visible to national park visitors, including the main crater, whose brilliant blue lake started reappearing in 2016 after being dry for several years. En route to Irazu, just 18 kilometers southwest of the volcano, is Sanatorio Durán, an abandoned hospital that tourists now find irresistible in being Costa Rica’s most haunted building. Valley of variety Because it does not take long to tour the Irazu volcano site, day trips from San José are often combined with an Orosi Valley excursion to Cartago. Highlights include Lankester Botanical Garden and the famous Basilica of Our Lady of the Angels. More than two million travelers from all corners of the country make an annual 22-kilometer pilgrimage to this church on foot every August 2, commemorating Costa Rica’s patron saint, the Virgin of los Ángeles. Click for details: Pilgrimage or Fiesta? Romería de la Virgen de los Ángeles. The quaint town of Orosi is the perfect place to savor fresh mountain air and the aroma of locally grown coffee you can sip at your leisure, perhaps with a view of Irazu volcano in the distance on a clear day. Orosi: A World Away, So Close describes how time seems to have stood still in this idyllic spot.

COVER STORY

Other relaxed urban tourism hubs, where visitors appreciate blends of cultural authenticity and modern amenities, can be found in Costa Rica’s Central Valley, short distances from San José. Three notable examples are Escazú, Atenas and Grecia. Cangreja is closer than any other national park to the Central Valley, just a short drive from San José. Extensive, well-kept trails cover everything from a hike to the 1,300 meter summit of La Cangreja itself, to walks along the Río Negro with natural swimming holes and waterfalls.

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Sanatorio Durán

Orosi

Although less well known than many of Costa Rica’s national parks, Heredia’s Sarapiquí canton has become an increasingly popular day trip or weekend excursion for visitors or locals in the Central Valley. Bordered by Nicaragua in the north, it appeals to families and thrill seekers alike, including whitewater rafters, and all manner of nature lovers. Also in the Central Valley just over an hour’s drive east of San José is the small town of Turrialba. Besides being a favorite spot for white water rafting adventures on the Pacuare and Reventazón Rivers, it’s ideally located for visiting the nearby Turrialba Volcano National Park. Strolling around the preColumbian ruins described in the Howler article Guayabo: History of a Mystery is also recommended.

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Caribbean dreamscapes Heading east from San José leads to Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast, from Tortuguero National Park in the north, to Cahuita and Puerto Viejo in the south towards the Panama border. Lush tropical wonderlands delight you at every turn, from rainforest adventures to surfing and snorkeling in places unlike anything in your wildest dreams. An overview is provided in the article Seeing the Other Side: A Wildlife Infused Getaway on the Caribbean Coast.

Poás Volcano National Park

The view overlooking the crater can still be described as otherworldly.

UP FRONT

Cute three-toed sloth on the ground of tropical shore iat Cahuita National Park

Tortuguero, named for the turtle nesting ground lining its 22-mile long stretch of protected beaches, is one of the country’s most popular national parks, but can only be reached by airplane or boat. The park site encompasses 11 different coastal habitats, including rainforest, mangroves, swamps and lagoons.

COVER STORY

Cahuita National Park offers the most glorious and leisurely kind of walk on the wild side you will ever experience in a jungle by the sea.

Wild Caribbean beach of Manzanillo at Puerto Viejo

Cahuita and Puerto Viejo are not only known for their exotic natural landscapes, but as the jewels of the Caribe “hammock” culture, with a Calypso soundtrack. Afro-Caribbean influences have shaped traditions around food, language and customs as well as song and dance.

Central Pacific palette San José’s central, landlocked location in Costa Rica makes for short trips to Central Pacific hotspots as well. That includes the booming beachtown of Jacó, having undergone an image makeover from surf and party playground to an artistic, fun and family-friendly community with burgeoning civic pride.

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World Surf League Tournament, Jacó Beach

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With your trek from San José to Jacó taking only about 90 minutes, allow yourself time to stop at Carara National Park en route to the beach destination. You’ll know you’re close to the park when you cross the famous Tarcoles crocodile bridge. A riverboat trip will give you a much closer and more personal encounter with likely the largest size and greatest number of these creatures you could possibly imagine.

Driving about 75 minutes south from Jacó, and still less than 2.5 hours west of San José, brings you to the small but busy port town of Quepos. Besides being a popular sport fishing spot, Quepos is known for being the gateway to Manuel Antonio National Park. Not only is Manuel Antonio one of the easiest park sites in the country to access, it’s the crown jewel for visitors wanting to capture as much diversity of landscape and wildlife interactions in the same place in the same short space of time.

Observation deck in National Park Manuel Antonio

UP FRONT

COVER STORY

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Photo: www.gcmap.com

Landing in Liberia Provides Unlimited Regional Opportunties

Making the Most of Your Time in Costa Rica By Jim Parisi & Alei Burns

uanacaste region is the most traveled area of Costa Rica. See why. It encompasses a large area that has many interesting attractions and lots of wildlife.

thermal hot springs with mud pots, to hiking, and ziplining, horseback riding, to whitewater rafting and tubing. Learn more in the Howler article Rincón de la Vieja: Really Hot Attractions.

Planning a trip to the western side of Costa Rica? After landing at Liberia’s Daniel Oduber Quirós International Airport, there is no shortage of variety for those seeking relaxation, adventure and every preference in between. Careful planning enables you to cover a lot of ground in the space of a week.

About 90 minutes northeast of Liberia is Tenorio Volcano National Park, not surprisingly on many bucket lists of tourists seeking firsthand proof that the iridescent blue waters of Río Celeste could possibly be as stunning as they appear in photos. Not far from the park is the town of Bijagua, where the privately owned Bijagua Ranas wildlife haven enchants visitors with an astonishing array and density of wildlife species encounters, including sloths.

Costa Rica’s northernmost Pacific coast is bordered by Santa Rosa National Park, just a short drive north of Liberia. It is one of the world’s most important protected tropical dry forest habitats and also a storied battleground site. Not far northeast of Santa Rosa is Guanacaste National Park, within the same protected dry forest and wildlife corridor connecting with Rincón de la Vieja National Park to the southeast. Getting to the latter park northbound from Liberia takes about 35 minutes. Volcano vistas Volcano views are on offer in this region of the country too, including Rincón de la Vieja, which recently let off a little steam. In the same national park vicinity, you can choose favorite activity packages from bathing in waterfall pools or

Further east, about 2.5 hours from Liberia (or almost the same distance from San José in the opposite direction), is the town of La Fortuna, the gateway to Arenal Volcano National Park. Although spontaneous options for sightseeing and adventure are indeed available, it’s advisable to map out your stay ahead of time in Costa Rica’s largest natural playground. Arenal excursion combo packages are available to fit most schedules. From canyoning down waterfalls and river cruises to fishing, kayaking and stand up paddle, the watersport choices alone are staggering in number and location. By some counts, Arenal visitors can find no less than 150 different types of activities in Arenal to satisfy everyone. An overview is provided in the Howler article Arenal: Choose Your Adventure.

UP FRONT Vibrant Playas del Coco has grown comfortable with its ever-eclectic appeal to locals and visitors. The allure of this crescent-shaped cove to folks of widely disparate ages and backgrounds is described in the Howler article Loco for Coco: Beachfront Bliss. Nearby pristine beaches include Playa Panama and Playa Hermosa to the north and Playa Ocotal to the south. Year round moisture contributes to the misty fairy tale ambience of Monteverde Cloud Forest and its claim to biodiversity fame. Birding and wildlife buffs never leave disappointed, while the proliferation of exotic ferns, mosses and more than 500 orchid species layering the treetop vistas is like wandering through a skyhigh greenhouse. The canyon views from hanging bridges slung up to 200 feet above the ground are breathtaking. Guanacaste is home to several inland national parks east and south of Liberia. Palo Verde National Park thrills countless boatloads of visitors daily on trips down the country’s thirdlargest river, the Tempisque, emptying into the northernmost Gulf of Nicoya waters. Barra Honda, just east of Nicoya, is known for Costa Rica’s most spectacular cave, Terciopelo. Diria National Park, south of Santa Cruz, is one of Guanacaste’s best kept secrets as a protected ecosystem for more than 380 tree species as well as rare and endangered bromeliads, cacti and orchids.

The caverns at Barra Honda

With urban tourism having a special Guanacaste flair in this region, the Howler’s online day tripper’s guide can help you enjoy highlights of Liberia itself, along with Nicoya and Santa Cruz, the artisan village of Guatil, Filadelfia’s giant lizards and coastal Playas del Coco.

COVER STORY

Pure Gold Coast And from there down the entire Pacific coastline, Costa Rica offers an incomparable selection of beaches within close proximity to each other; but with none being exactly like any other.

One of Guanacaste's beach beach: Conchal located i

Perched high on a mountaintop at Playa Matapalo is Diamante Eco-Adventure Park, a leading pioneer in the growing business of ecoadventure tourism. If the panoramic seascape views aren’t breathtaking enough, imagine soaring overhead along one of the world’s most exhilarating ziplines, Superman-style. High standards of care and knowledgeable staff put Diamante’s animal sanctuary in a class of its own.

in Brasilito

You can also get a taste of Costa Rica’s chocolate and coffee traditions during a delicious cultural learning experience. Continuing further down the so-called Gold Coast, Playa Potrero, Playa Flamingo, Playa Brasilito, Playa Conchal and Playa Grande are all popular get-away beaches with good reason, but just enough off the beaten path to maintain their charm. Playa Tamarindo and Playa Langosta are the focal point of this beach parade. Thrust onto the map seemingly overnight in the 1990s by surf celebrities like Robert August, Tamarindo morphed from a little-known fishing village into Costa Rica’s second largest (non-port) beach community. In addition to the concentration of tourist-driven storefronts, resorts, eateries, nightlife and commercial activities, easy access to attractions such as ziplines, horseback tours and of course, surf breaks, have contributed to the community’s vibe.

Arenal excursion combo packages are available to fit most schedules. Nature, solitude and wellness Barely 30 minutes away is Playa Avellanas, where surfers, foodies and farmers converge with beachgoers preferring uncrowded stretches of sand and playful waves. Another favorite coastal antidote to hustle and bustle just a bit further south are the sleepy Nandamojo Valley beach towns of Playa Negra and Playa Junquillal. Both are small, but markedly international communities of nature lovers and solitude seekers.

COVER STORY

UP FRONT

Besides being considered the quintessential Pacific surf town, Nosara is a health and wellness mecca where juice bars are as much a defining feature as yoga studios and retreats. Located in Nicoya’s world-renowned Blue Zone, one of just five such regions in the world where longevity past age 100 is not unusual, “Nosara” actually encompasses the whole area between Playa Nosara to the north, the small inland town of Nosara, and Playa Guiones to the south.

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RESERVA CONCHAL LLAMA DEL BOSQUE LOT Size: 958 m2 (0.236 acres) | $549,000 This phenomenal homesite is truly a special f ind for those looking to enjoy the golf ing lifestyle. The backyard of this property flows into the putting green of the distinguished Robert Trent Jones III golf course. Also unique to its location is the entrance to the cul-de-sac located directly in f ront of the lot allowing for nice strolls through the shaded park with a children’s playground and picnic tables perfect for your morning coffee. Outside of the subdivision you’ll have access to all the amazing amenities Reserva Conchal has to offer. From elaborate hiking trails, to golf ing, to f ine dinning at any of the f ive-star hotels you’ll have numerous activities to enjoy. As an owner you’ll also have access to the luxurious beach club located on the whitesand beach of Playa Conchal. Here you’ll f ind a full gym, lush spa, exceptional restaurant and an outstanding pool that spans the whole club f rom one end to the other.

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The Gold Coast of Costa Rica Horizon Pacific is located in Playa Tamarindo and exists to help you find a tropical retreat on the gorgeous Gold Coast of Costa Rica - the most beautiful backdrop to renew your spirit and help you reconnect to your favorite people and to the world. With lush tropical flowers, fresh delicious food and exciting experiences, Horizon Pacific will provide the best accommodations and assistance finding exciting adventures. Please reach out to our team, so we can help your travel dreams become a reality. And not to worry, we will continue all our Covid-19 safety measures and flexible options.

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TA video from April

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

Out of Africa With Howler's Top-Trekking Contributor

by Tom Schultz

guess when we of a “certain age” hear the name Uganda, we think of Idi Amin and the Raid on Entebbe. So when a friend and fellow birding club member asked if we wanted to go, I was hesitant at first. This friend had missed his tour last year due to COVID, and had a travel credit, so five of us decided to go along. Our main reason was to see the shoebill — a four-foot tall bird that is extremely rare and still thinks it is a dinosaur.

FEATURED ADVENTURE

We have been to Africa before, but the others in our group had not. So our friend’s Ugandan contact put together a 16-day trip for early June. It tried to balance seeing all Part 1: Our visit to the northern part of the country • Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary where they are slowly replenishing the white rhinos • Murchison Falls National Park, a treasure of game drive treats, where Murchison Falls is the emotional and titular source of the Nile River

the animals, experiencing the culture and not trying to see only birds. The result was an amazing trip, where we saw lions in trees, leopards, giraffes, hippos, elephants, zebras, warthogs, rhinos, jackals, cape buffalo, 12 types of antelope and five types of monkeys. We trekked to see chimpanzees and mountain gorillas, and 310 species of birds — the final one, of course, being the legendary shoebill . The featured 45-minute video of trip highlights is broken into four themed parts:

video

Part 2: Primate encounters • Our two great ape treks • Seeing chimpanzees in the Kibale Forest — only to have to run away from charging forest elephants at the end • Our special encounter with the mountain gorillas in the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest • Other primates we were lucky to encounter

video

Part 3: Game drives in the national parks in the west and south • Queen Elizabeth National Park, located in a rift valley and famous for being one of two places in the world where lions climb trees • Lake Mburo National Park, with its huge zebra population

Part 4: Lodges, birds and shoebill • A tour of lodges and parks where we stayed, and a sampling of the incredible birds we saw in each one • Our quest in the Mabamba swamp for the shoebill

video

Enjoy a whirlwind tour of Uganda!

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

SAN LUCAS

ISLAND

FROM HELL HOTEL FOR PRISONERS TO NATIONAL CONSERVATION GEM

by Karl Kahler Origianally publis

FEATURED NATIONAL PARK

Aerial view of the prison site. Photo: Giancarlo Pucci

or the most incorrigible misbehavior, like killing another prisoner, inmates at the San Lucas prison island were lowered into “the hole” — literally a hole in the middle of a big concrete disc on top of what was designed to be a cistern to hold rainwater. This underground dungeon actually did hold water, sometimes up to a man’s midriff, so the unfortunate souls condemned to this

gruesome punishment were unable to sit, much less lie down and sleep, for however many days and nights they had to endure this torture. “You had to stand for days, and sometimes they had people in there for like a month, and they came out either dead or crazy,” said Vigdis Vatshaug, the Norwegian tour guide who led my family on a fascinating and disturbing tour of

President Inaugurates 30th National Park VIDEO

by Howler Staff

ugust 24, 2020, marked the start of a new chapter in the storied history of San Lucas Island when it became Costa Rica’s 30th national park. The ceremonial signing of a decree by President Carlos Alvarado coincided with the 50th anniversary of the country’s national park system. (Learn more in Howler’s June 2020 cover story, Costa Rica’s Protected Places.) The new national park status reflects the island’s potential as a tourism hub for the Gulf of Nicoya, with government officials hopeful about a ripple effect in the port of Puntarenas and neighboring islands and communities.

shed in May 2018

Having languished into ruin for two decades after the prison was closed in 1991, San Lucas Island underwent rehabilitation as a wildlife refuge when the National System of Conservation Areas (SINAC) took over its management in 2012. It has since enjoyed popularity as an easily accessible attraction for visitors on day trips out of Puntarenas. The boat ride takes 30 to 40 minutes. Besides touring the abandoned prison, visitors can see abundant wildlife species including indigenous species of monkeys, snakes and anteaters, as well as deer and crocodiles.

one of the most brutal prison islands on earth — right here in the happiest country in the world, in the Gulf of Nicoya, a short boat ride away from Playa Naranjo. San Lucas Island is best-known as the setting of “La isla de los hombres solos” (“The Island of Lonely Men”), a novel written by the former inmate José León Sánchez, a Tico accused of stealing

religious icons from the Basilica of Cartago who spent 30 years imprisoned here. In this case, the truth is every bit as strange as the fiction. As soon as we disembarked from our boat at the rusty old pier, we climbed the steps to the “Camino de Amargura,” the “Road of Bitterness” that greeted new inmates upon arrival during the years the prison was open, from 1873 to 1991.

HELL HOTEL

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

Flanking this road are two small, dirty rooms, now filled with bats, where new arrivals were welcomed by being corralled into a filthy, crowded enclosure with no place to sit or sleep except the floor. They were given very little food, and the bathroom was a bucket in the middle of the floor. New arrivals spent several days in this dungeon — letting them know what lay ahead, and undoubtedly making them thankful when they were released to larger quarters with separate latrines. “People were not punished for doing something wrong,” Vigdis said. “They were punished so they wouldn’t do anything wrong.”

In the worst cases, Vigdis said, two men were shackled shoulder to shoulder, so that neither man could sit, lie, walk or void his bowels without the other man at his side. Some men spent decades here, and a great many died in this desolate place. Vigdis said an astonishing 20 percent, one out of five, died in their first year. A few men managed to escape, having removed their shackles with tools they were given to break rocks. They had to brave strong currents to swim to the nearest island, or even to the mainland, but Vigdis said all escapees died or were recaptured. The Brave Hooker

FEATURED ADVENTURE

The Ball and Chain Each inmate was issued a ball and chain attached to his ankle, with the size of the iron ball commensurate to his crime. The largest iron ball might weigh 50 pounds, and these were never removed. Prisoners oddly took pride in keeping their ball and chain clean, according to Sánchez’s book. “They all kept polishing and keeping their ball and chain very nice,” Vigdis said. “They never would drag it because then it would be dirty; there was a pride in having a very nice ball and chain.”

The happiest story we heard was about the day the prostitute came. Vigdis related a tale from the book about a prison commander who hated homosexuality, which was rampant on a prison island for only men. The warden decided that the only way to put a stop to all the sodomy was to bring in women. So the guards went to Puntarenas (also known as “Putarenas”) and recruited prostitutes to service the prisoners.

Kitchen, still under construction when the prison closed. Photo: Karl Kahler

Prisoners oddly took pride in keeping their ball and chain clean.

Cell block with graffiti-covered walls Photo: Karl Kahler

“And the prisoners were of course excited,” Vigdis said. “They cleaned up the best they could, and were making little presents for the ladies. “So the boat comes back from Puntarenas and it’s empty — because these prostitutes have only heard of this prison as a very dangerous place, with brutal criminals, murderers, rapists. But they tried again the next Sunday and one woman came. And the guards said they put her in the visitation house, and everybody got in line, and they decided how much time they had with her. “She went back to Puntarenas and said the prisoners were all well-behaved and they all loved her and said she was beautiful and everything, so the following Sundays there were more coming in.” My girlfriend, Guiselle, who used to live in nearby Paquera and visited this island many years ago, said the youngest, best-looking prisoners were taken as lovers by the toughest inmates, and if they were unfaithful, they were killed. Vigdis said several men were forced into prostitution, or did it willingly, servicing anyone who could pay with a bowl of food, a shirt or whatever.

“The hole,” an infamous underground torture chamber. Photo: Karl Kahler

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

The walls of the nine cellblocks here are covered with graffiti, including pornographic pictures and forlorn comments. One note says, “Kneepads and bibs sold here,” signed by the gerente de ventas, the “sales manager.” One striking drawing portrays a larger-than-life-size woman in a sexy pose, wearing a bikini that Vigdis said was reportedly painted in blood. “Some say that he cut himself every day to paint again and again, and other stories say that he cut other people to collect blood,” she said. Guiselle, who once met a former San Lucas prisoner, said he told her that someone killed another prisoner here and used his blood to write on the wall: “This is how I’m going to die.”

It’s hard to separate truth from legend here, as the prison’s log books were thrown into the sea years ago. Vigdis is aware of one nonfiction book about the prison, “Una historia sin fin,” “A Story With No End,” but she has never been able to find it. Most of her information comes from Sánchez’s novel and from the oral histories related by former guards, prisoners and visitors. Laundry Service Inmates were issued a striped uniform upon arrival that had to last them two or three years. In the early days, laundry service was as nonexistent as medical attention, and of course people smelled pretty bad. “So a lot of the prisoners walked around naked because they had lost a shirt in a bet over a piece of bread,” Vigdis said. “They could only wash [clothes] if they were on the beach, in salt water, but the only fresh water they got was to drink.”

FEATURED NATIONAL PARK

Aerial view of the prison’s central compound. Photo: Recaredo Cerdas

This dock was and is the only entrance to San Lucas Island, except for another landing place where horses and bulls were brought in for rodeos and bullfights. Below: Pictured next to the restored church is the former prison officers' quarters, destroyed by a suspicious fire in 2017

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

If a prisoner died, other inmates could buy his clothes with some of their food. “And the people that died, they were often sick and had infection and lice and so on,” she said. “And you were so happy because it was a better shirt, or maybe you didn’t have any, and you’re wearing the sweat and the blood of someone who just died.” Inside one of the cell blocks. Photo: Recaredo Cerdas

FEATURED NATIONAL PARK

A newly printed poem in perfect rhyme (see last page) Photo: Recaredo Cerdas

The architects of this island were French, who were experts in prison islands (look up Devil’s Island, or read the book “Papillon”). The worst of the horrors here date from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, though a nationwide prison reform in the 1960s eased conditions here considerably. Balls and chains were abolished, and some prisoners were allowed to build crude houses, plant gardens and raise chickens.

Prison cellblocks surrounding the infamouse punishment hole. Photo: Recaredo Cerdas

Kitchen corner. Photo: Karl Kahler Relatively well-drawn images stand out among the cruder pornographic graffiti. Photos: Recaredo Cerdas

This kitchen was still under construction when the San Lucas prison closed in 1991. Photo: Recaredo Cerdas

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE A SUSPICIOUS FIRE There is a beautiful little church here, newly renovated, though it is locked up. Adjacent to it, there used to be a three-story casona, with bedrooms and offices for the warden and guards — although it made national news when this building was burned to the ground on the night of Nov. 24-25, 2017. Speculation has it that illegal fishermen may have burned the house as payback for the government’s confiscation of their fishing equipment. The casona looked out on a courtyard containing the concrete disc with “the hole,” and just beyond that are seven cellblocks that housed perhaps 100 people each.

FEATURED NATIONAL PARK

The people in the cellblocks could hear the screams and cries of the wretched people standing in water day and night in the hole. And meanwhile, all the prisoners could smell the delicious food being served in the casona at dinner parties for the commander and his guards.

Costa Rica’s most miserable all-inclusive resort was finally closed in 1991, its inmates relocated to other prisons. José León Sánchez was declared innocent of the Basilica crime in 1988, and today he is Costa Rica’s best-known writer. He is still alive and living in Heredia. “Are there any ghosts here?” I asked Vigdis. “There are lots of ghosts,” she said. One graffito on the wall, in neat handwriting and perfect rhyme, says: En este lugar Maldito Que Reina La Tristeza No se Castiga el Delito Se Castiga la Pobreza A free translation: In this God-forsaken place Of sadness all the time It’s not crime that makes the case It’s poverty that’s the crime

Remains of the three-story prison headquarters (foreground), burned to the ground in 2017 Photo: SINAC for LN (Andrés Garita Vindas, GN correspondent).

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

The Full Diamante Make it Yours

By John Brockmeier

had heard about Diamante Eco Adventure Park even before moving to the Gold Coast area of Costa Rica. Looking forward to my first visit to the park, I could barely contain my excitement about the thrill of experiencing Central America’s longest dual action zipline. There had to be a good reason why this so-called Superman line is ranked in the world’s top five of its class.

COOL PLACES

On arrival, we entered the gates and drove to the parking area, where a shuttle bus took us up the steep incline to the Diamante office. Being greeted with the full open Pacific panorama off Playa Matapalo was spectacular. The sense of tranquility

was mesmerizing as we relaxed and enjoyed the view until everyone in our group arrived. Still, my anticipation of the coming adrenalin rush was no less intense during the wait.

In due course, I discovered for myself what all the fuss is about. The Superman zipline lived up to all my heart-pounding expectations and then some. One of the interesting features I noticed was the self-braking system. Its advantages became apparent when a couple of older people in front of me were descending, and I wondered how they would handle stopping. Then it was my turn to be put on the line and sent whizzing down. Nearing the end, I realized that almost anyone can enjoy this experience regardless of athletic ability, thanks to the mechanism that automatically slows you down for a comfortable landing.

Simulated wildlife habitats After finishing the lines, we made a tour of the Diamante animal sanctuary. It was a rare opportunity to marvel up close at iconic Costa Rican species in natural enclosures that simulate their wildlife habitats. These animals are very well cared for, having been rescued and rehabilitated in circumstances that would make release into the wild not feasible for various reasons.

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE Walking over the swinging bridge, we peered down at the hungry crocodiles, in awe of their massive size and power. The jaguar brothers, their playfulness belying a fierce appearance, seemed to be consciously entertaining the onlookers. A puma simply stared us down as we observed. Monkeys chattered and played to their audience’s delight. The highlight was seeing Lucy, Diamante’s legendary sloth and her companions. By lucky coincidence, we encountered her on the ground instead of in the canopy, where sloths spend most of their time. Entering the birdcage, we were also richly rewarded at the sight of so many species, including a stunning toucan. Lots of talkative parrots wanting to converse and a background chorus of chirping enhanced our multisensory experience We ended our visit to Diamante with a wonderful buffet lunch, again sitting back and relaxing against the magnificent ocean backdrop. We were already planning a future return trip for a horseback riding adventure, either in the backwoods or on the beach, and some ATV fun.

COOL PLACES

Diamante Eco Adventure Park is a short 20-minute drive from Playas Del Coco, and about 40 minutes from the Playa Flamingo area.

See Diamante Here:

The Superman zipline lived up to all my heart pounding expectations and then some.

video

TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

COOL PLACES

Visit with the wild Costa Rica animals in our animal sanctuary

Visit the charming casita, replicating a traditional farmhouse, and sample fresh Costa Rican coffee.

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TRAVEL & ADVENTURE

Planning Your 2022-2023 Escape Brought to you by Deals in Costa Rica

ne of the beautiful aspects of Costa Rica is the variety of opportunities for adventures. Literally there is something for everyone. The extremes are real, from being lazy chillin’ in a hammock by the beach to trekkin' a volcano trail to adrenaline rush jumps. Deals in Costa Rica presents a small fraction of the adventures that await your next vacation/escape. We highlight examples in just five regions to intrigue your adventuresome spirit. Click on the buttons for more information. There are two major international airports. Check to see which one is nearest your desired locations to visit. SURVEY: Your top 5 adventures

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REAL ESTATE

Casa

Coco Loco Azul Junquillal, Guanacaste

his vacation home in Costa Rica is walkable to the beach and can be split into two units for tons of income potential! The gated property includes a three-story residence, along with lush gardens and a fantastic pool.

FEATURED PROPERTY

The ground level here has 2 bedrooms and 1.5 bathrooms, plus it has its own entrance so it can be rented out separately. Upstairs, you’ll find an open layout with beautiful timber ceilings & tile floors. This level has 2 more bedrooms & a common full bathroom. Your updated kitchen is open to the dining area and features sleek cabinetry, stainless steel appliances & stone countertops. The third level boasts an expansive covered porch that overlooks the pool, and there’s also a viewing perch on the top level with 150-degree views of the Pacific Ocean. What a backyard oasis! The pool is surrounded by trees and shrubs for privacy, and there’s a huge sail shade over the deep end to keep you cool. Read more: Want to go surfing or simply dip your toes in the warm waters of the Pacific Ocean? You’re just a 10-minute walk to Junquillal Beach, an

undeveloped stretch of sand that feels very exclusive and offers picture-perfect sunsets. You can also walk to the grocery store and a few excellent cafes in town. This area is home to numerous hiking trails and waterfalls, and don’t be surprised when iguanas, parrots and monkeys greet you along the way. Further up the coast, there are plenty of dining & nightlife options in Tamarindo. And you’re just an hour from the airport! If you choose to use this vacation home as an income property, everything is already set up for you! This place is furnished, has a stellar rental history and great reviews. What are you waiting for? Isolated but accessible property like this is rare in Costa Rica and the prices are only going to increase. Secure your slice of paradise now! Water as a poetic element that helps reinforce the sense of belonging to the site by merging with the surroundings and constantly changing the internal environment as the weather changes. CLICK LOGO FOR MORE INFORMATION

Listing agent: Larry Graziano Owner-Broker

Coldwell Banker Pacific Realty +506 8835 2977 larry@cbpacificrealty.com Click photo for his bio

Our Lagoon 450 Catamaran has 3 levels of deck space: • There is sunbathing and enjoy swinging in the hammock on the padded upper deck as well as seating for 8 people at the helm. • Our mid deck is pure entertainment with Dining in the spacious aft cockpit area or Air Conditioned Salon, a fully equipped galley (kitchen) and the forward area have another cockpit for seating and the trampolines for dolphin watching. • Escape to the privacy of your own Air Conditioned cabin and bathroom on the Lower Deck. “We boarded the 45 foot Lagoon catamaran at The Sailing Center in Potrero and set sail toward the north so we would have a prime spot for sunset. Along the way, we saw turtles swimming, several varieties of birds soaring and dolphins playing off our bow. We knew we were in for an amazing adventure.”

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Check these locations from our Youtub

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OUR NEXT ADVENTURE

Day

AUGUST TIDE CHART High

Low

High

Low

High

Mon 01

05:14 8.79 ft

11:14 0.97 ft

17:25 8.57 ft

23:28 0.54 ft

Tue 02

05:49 8.84 ft

11:52 0.94 ft

18:02 8.37 ft

Wed 03

00:04 0.68 ft

06:26 8.83 ft

12:32 1.00 ft

18:41 8.11 ft

Thu 04

00:41 0.88 ft

07:05 8.76 ft

13:15 1.11 ft

19:24 7.81 ft

Fri 05

01:23 1.11 ft

07:49 8.64 ft

14:03 1.25 ft

20:14 7.53 ft

Sat 06

02:11 1.36 ft

08:40 8.50 ft

14:58 1.38 ft

21:12 7.31 ft

Sun 07

03:07 1.58 ft

09:40 8.40 ft

16:01 1.40 ft

22:19 7.27 ft

Mon 08

04:13 1.68 ft

10:46 8.43 ft

17:09 1.25 ft

23:29 7.49 ft

Tue 09

05:24 1.56 ft

11:54 8.63 ft

18:15 0.89 ft

Wed 10

00:37 7.96 ft

06:34 1.21 ft

12:58 8.99 ft

19:17 0.40 ft

Thu 11

01:38 8.58 ft

07:38 0.72 ft

13:58 9.39 ft

20:13 −0.11 ft

Fri 12

02:33 9.22 ft

08:36 0.22 ft

14:52 9.73 ft

21:05 −0.53 ft

Sat 13

03:24 9.75 ft 09:29 −0.17 ft

15:43 9.92 ft

21:54 −0.76 ft

Sun 14

04:13 10.07 ft 10:19 −0.37 ft

16:32 9.89 ft

22:40 −0.76 ft

Mon 15

05:00 10.15 ft 11:08 −0.33 ft

17:19 9.64 ft

23:25 −0.52 ft

Tue 16

05:46 9.98 ft

11:55 −0.07 ft

18:06 9.18 ft

Wed 17

00:10 −0.07 ft

06:32 9.58 ft

12:42 0.37 ft

18:54 8.58 ft

Thu 18

00:55 0.55 ft

07:19 9.04 ft

13:31 0.90 ft

19:44 7.92 ft

Fri 19

01:42 1.23 ft

08:09 8.44 ft

14:23 1.45 ft

20:39 7.29 ft

Sat 20

02:33 1.90 ft

09:03 7.88 ft

15:22 1.90 ft

21:41 6.82 ft

Sun 21

03:32 2.43 ft

10:03 7.47 ft

16:27 2.14 ft

22:49 6.61 ft

Mon 22

04:39 2.73 ft

11:07 7.29 ft

17:34 2.14 ft

23:55 6.69 ft

Tue 23

05:47 2.73 ft

12:08 7.36 ft

18:33 1.91 ft

Wed 24

00:52 6.99 ft

06:47 2.47 ft

13:02 7.61 ft

19:22 1.56 ft

Thu 25

01:40 7.42 ft

07:37 2.06 ft

13:49 7.95 ft

20:04 1.17 ft

Fri 26

02:21 7.89 ft

08:19 1.59 ft

14:30 8.30 ft

20:41 0.80 ft

Sat 27

02:58 8.35 ft

08:57 1.13 ft

15:08 8.60 ft

21:16 0.49 ft

Sun 28

03:33 8.75 ft

09:34 0.73 ft

15:45 8.80 ft

21:49 0.27 ft

Mon 29

04:07 9.06 ft

10:10 0.43 ft

16:21 8.87 ft

22:23 0.17 ft

Tue 30

04:41 9.25 ft

10:46 0.26 ft

16:57 8.81 ft

22:57 0.18 ft

Wed 31

05:16 9.32 ft

11:23 0.24 ft

17:34 8.63 ft

23:32 0.31 ft

2022

Over 4 million worldwide readers so far! Click the cover to go to that edition.

REAL ESTATE

Why is it Important to Work with an Experienced Real Estate Agent and Long-Standing Real Estate Company in Costa Rica? Sponsored Content

REAL ESTATE 101

ost buyers and sellers in the coastal regions of Costa Rica are not native to the area. So it seems like common sense that you would seek out advice from a seasoned and professional agent who works in a well-established agency to guide you through the purchase or sale process of a property in a foreign country. I think we would all agree with that statement so far.

Suffice it to say that most real estate agents and real estate companies will claim they are the wisest and most knowledgeable. There are definitely quality individuals and companies operating in the Papagayo area and beyond. During a hot real estate market, the number of agents working increases and the number of inexperienced agents goes up as well. It is not too hard to put together a good website and present yourself in a good light, and sound like you are knowledgeable, to the unknowing client. Especially since the laws and customs for buying and selling real estate in Costa Rica are probably much different from what you are accustomed to, that could cause you not to notice that you are working with an experienced person right away.

Don’t feel shy to ask the person you are potentially going to trust with one of the most important transactions of your life. Basics There are some basic things that you should require from your realtor in order to feel comfortable with who you are working with. Don’t feel shy to ask the person you are potentially going to trust with one of the most important transactions of your life to provide this information. Your realtor should be at the minimum: • A legal permanent resident of Costa Rica with full rights to live and work in the country • A member of either Costa Rica Realtor Boards — CRGAR or CCCBR • We go into great detail about the need to work with a licensed real estate agent in another blog post here. • Registered with the financial regulatory agency SUGEF If the answer to any of these questions is no, then you should strongly consider cutting ties with that person and find another agent to help you. You may have been referred to your realtor by a friend or through a local person that you trust, as you might anywhere else. And they probably had a good experience with that agent or they would not have referred them to you.

That does not mean that your transaction is the same. It might be totally different, requiring the keen eye of a true expert to guide you through any potential pitfall. There are certainly well-meaning people trying to make a living as a real estate agent in paradise (who wouldn’t?!), and they might not intend to put you in harm’s way, but their inexperience could cost you time or money, or both. In the end, it is a big investment decision you are making that deserves the advice of an experienced local expert. Beyond these basic things that your realtor should possess, there are many other factors that you should take into account when choosing who to trust with a complex foreign transaction.

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Ayurvedic Medicine

Part 3: Digging Deeper to Understand Your Dominant Dosha by Laura Méndez

he background information in Howler’s last two articles about Ayurvedic medicine set the stage for what we’ll cover this time. In part 1, we identified the three doshas — vata, pitta and kapha — and then provided a quiz to determine which of your own doshas is dominant. Part 2 focused on the three energies and five elements in relation to Ayurvedic principles. Now, I will put it all together and continue sharing more details about each one of the doshas. Again, if you have not taken the quiz in part 1, or need to refresh your memory, I encourage you to revisit that article. What’s true for you?

When out of balance, those with a predominant vata tend to have hypertension, constipation, weight loss, weakness and arthritis. They may be prone to worry, insomnia and digestive challenges. To keep vata in balance it is suggested that the following fruits are preferably avoided: Generally most dried fruit, apples (raw), cranberries, dates (dry), figs (dry), pears, persimmons, pomegranates, raisins (dry), prunes (dry) and watermelon. In order to stay balanced, the following fruits are suggested:

WELLNESS

Generally most sweet fruit, apples (cooked), So, do you remember that all of us have the applesauce, apricots, avocado, bananas, three doshas in different proportions? However, berries, cherries, coconut, dates (fresh), figs for most people one dosha is usually dominant. (fresh), grapefruit, grapes, kiwi, lemons, limes, mangoes, melons, oranges, papaya, peaches, Keep reading and see if you can apply this pineapple, plums, prunes (soaked), raisins information to your own body. (soaked), rhubarb, strawberries and tamarind. Vata: air + ether

Pitta: fire + water

When in balance, people with a predominant vata have excellent agility, dry skin and hair, and a thin frame. They are creative, energetic and flexible, loving excitement and new experiences.

When predominant pitta people are in balance, they have perfect digestion, a lustrous complexion and strong appetite. They are receptive to praise, sharp-witted, direct and outspoken.

When out of balance, they tend to have skin rashes, indigestion, excessive body heat and burning sensations. They are short-tempered and argumentative. To keep pitta balanced, the following fruits must be avoided: Generally most sour fruit, apples (sour), apricots (sour), bananas, berries (sour), cherries (sour), cranberries, grapefruit, grapes (green), kiwi,** lemons, mangoes (green), oranges (sour), peaches, persimmons, pineapple (sour), plums (sour), rhubarb and tamarind. And the following fruits help to balance the pitta dosha: Generally most sweet fruit, apples (sweet), applesauce, apricots (sweet), avocado, berries (sweet), cherries (sweet), coconut, dates, figs, grapes (red and purple), limes,* mangoes (ripe), melons, oranges (sweet),* papaya,* pears, pineapple (sweet),* plums (sweet), pomegranates, prunes, raisins, strawberries* and watermelon. Kapha: water + earth Predominant kaphas in balance have excellent stamina, large and soft eyes, a strong build, thick hair and smooth skin. They are loyal, patient, steady and supportive.

For most people one dosha is usually dominant.

When out of balance they sleep excessively and have overweight issues. They suffer from asthma, depression, diabetes, resistance to change and stubbornness. What fruits to avoid for kapha: Generally most sweet and sour fruit, avocado, bananas, coconut, dates, figs (fresh), grapefruit, kiwi, mangos,** melons, oranges, papaya, pineapple, plums, rhubarb, tamarind and watermelon. Beneficial fruits for kapha: Generally most astringent fruit, apples, applesauce, apricots, berries, cherries, cranberries, figs (dry),* grapes,* lemons,* limes,* peaches,* pears, persimmons, pomegranates, prunes, raisins and strawberries. * okay in moderation ** okay rarely And, as you might suspect, there are lists of vegetables, grains, condiments, legumes, animal foods, seeds, etc. that will help to bring back into balance a specific dosha. Or there are foods that must be avoided or ingested with moderation. I invite you to look into this information and make an online search about the foods to avoid and the foods that bring balance. In this way you can experience for yourself the benefits of balancing your dosha with specific foods.

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PURA VIDA / LIVING CR

Let’s Prepare Our Pets for Rainy Season

Drs. Gilberth Cavallini & Dr. Leticia Cajal

s rainy season starts, reproduction of insects and increased proliferation of viruses, bacteria and parasites cause multiple illnesses.

ANIMAL LIFE

Virus outbreaks, especially distemper and parvovirus, are our biggest concern. Both diseases are serious and can be prevented just by following a vaccination protocol at your regular veterinary clinic. Both diseases tend to affect more puppies than adult dogs. Parvovirus is a hemorrhagic gastroenteritis (inflammation from the stomach and intestines causing bloody diarrhea). Distemper usually starts with respiratory symptoms, followed by digestive symptoms and eventually neurological symptoms near the end. Both types of viruses, if not treated, are fatal. We have seen more positive results treating parvovirus than distemper.

Bacterias commonly include Bordetella spp, the agent that causes the well-known kennel cough. Although vaccinating against this bacteria is not on regular veterinary protocols, it is simple to do so and all vets have the vaccine. Usually pet owners will notice a strong dry cough, harder at night, and the effort of coughing might make your pet vomit.

It is not lifethreatening, but in old dogs, or brachycephalic breeds like boxers, bull dogs, or Boston terriers, the infection might be stronger. Bordetella is contagious and spreads within three to five days among dogs in the same location. Some dogs might heal on their own, as it is an immunomediated disease, but others might need treatment. One parasite that thrives in rainy season is Giardia spp. This is a protozoa and can affect mammals, including humans and birds. Usually it spreads from eating the cyst and it takes five to 14 days for the animal to get sick. Symptoms may be less evident and sometimes cause just intermittent diarrhea, weight loss and vomiting. Stools are usually loose or liquid with mucous present. Some fecal samples might show drops of blood. There is an instant test for checking stool samples from dogs and cats if giardia infection is suspected. There is also a vaccination to prevent this disease.

Virus outbreaks, especially distemper and parvovirus, are our biggest concern.

Also with rainy season comes an increase in insect populations. Puppies enjoy eating several types of insects and this can cause problems, from mild gastritis to severe digestive disorders. Anything that makes your pet vomit has to be watched carefully as dehydration from vomiting or diarrhea is in most cases the cause of death, and not the agent ingested. Teaching your pet to leave insects and other animals alone will help them live longer and happier. In previous articles we have talked about heartworm, but a reminder seems warranted, because we are seeing cases of it daily in our clinic. That means many pet owners are not taking the necessary deworming precautions. Heartworm spreads through mosquitoes. If you have not been regularly deworming your pet against heartworm, take it to your veterinarian and ask for a heartworm test. It takes just 10 minutes. If your pet tests negative, start the monthly deworming treatment at once.

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ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT

Soda Tapia

A True Urban Legend by Sylvia Barreto Benites

ears before the soda fountain culture was brought back to life in movies like American Graffiti, an enterprising idea was born in the minds of Bruno and Alice Tapia. It was 1964 and the couple was already running a successful eatery in San José’s central market. But Bruno and Alice had shinier dreams, setting their sights on a modern place with gleaming plastic counters and booths. The menu would be all on its own, while ultimately becoming synonymous with traditional Costa Rican food.

CULTURAL HERITAGE

More than a half-century later, Soda Tapia remains a must-try location like no other. Aside from traditional gallo pinto and casados, the dining spot serves hamburgers and also arreglados — a refried bean and ham sandwich with cheese, Salsa Lizano and veggies. “Churchills” are also served in every variety. A Churchill is a shaved ice dessert that can incorporate condensed milk and powdered milk (granizado when sold on the beach) or ice cream, jello and fruit salad. Soda Tapia features a unique and wide-ranging menu, including options you can tick off from a list. The combinations are endless and made to order. Located on San José’s main drag in La Sabana, Soda Tapia is an urban legend in the truest Tico sense that everyone should savor.

Soda Tapia on the main drag of La Saban

The combinations are endless and made to order.

na in 1976. Photo courtesy of José Gerardo Suárez Monge.

YOUTUBE

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ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT

Youtube

Exploring San José Through Urban Art by Howler Staff Originally published in Sept / Oct 2018 Photos courtesy of Costa Rica en la Pared

ario Molina Salazar is the founder and administrator of an innovative project called Costa Rica en la Pared (“Costa Rica on the Wall”), which leads four-hour tours showcasing graffiti, murals and other public art on the streets of San José. He says the artworks on these walls are a window into the culture and history of the country. This Q&A with Mario about his unusual tour has been translated from Spanish and edited for length. Explain what “Costa Rica en la Pared” is. Who started it and how, and what was the idea behind it?

URBAN TOURISM

Costa Rica en la Pared is a platform for tourism and cultural development through urban art. Art is an agent of social transformation in which, by means of documentation on walls, Urban Safaris and other types of mobilization all over Costa Rica, we seek to raise awareness and generate cultural experiences. With a background in tourism and cultural management, I started the project and I run it. Its origins were in February 2016, arising from the language of the streets on my daily travels from Alajuela to San José, and once in the capital, my walks down the streets and boulevards. Photography and social intervention became media for self-expression. It’s a constant analysis, recovery and conservation of the culture of Costa Rica.

For the tourist, it means, “Don’t skip San José!” For the resident, it means, “Let’s experience the capital.” Explain this concept of an “Urban Art Safari.” It’s new for a lot of people, especially those who live far from San José, or for visitors to Costa Rica who are primarily focused on ecotourism. The Urban Art Safari is a way of exploring and getting to know San José, to see how space has been appropriated for cultural recovery. On these guided tours you can appreciate all kinds of urban artwork: graffiti, murals and city art. The package includes a meal and a workshop on creative expression. San José should be a beloved capital; its origins led to our current Costa Rican democracy, and it should be a quality point of arrival and departure. It takes a few days to explore it and let yourself be surprised by the wealth of culture it offers. Everything is art! The safari is a conscious tour: Part of the earnings go to social action projects, the local economy is stimulated by alliances with gastronomic establishments, artists from this urban stage are highlighted, it leaves no environmental footprint, and it generates a sense of belonging to the way of life of the city. What does the tour consist of, what places do you visit, how long does it last, and how often do you do it? This expedition in the concrete jungle covers stretches from Avenida Central to Calle de la Amargura in San Pedro de Montes de Oca. We visit the neighborhoods of Amón, Otoya, Aranjuez, La California, Escalante, Dent and San Pedro, near the University of Costa Rica. CLICK here for the rest of the story, more photos, and contact information.

“For the tourist, it means, ‘Don’t skip San José!’ For the resident, it means, ‘Let’s experience the capital.’”

ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT

Gardens with Wings Multi-Media Art by Daniela Vargas-Winiker

ARTIST SPOTLIGHT

by Charlene Golojuch Photos courtesy of Hidden Garden Art Gallery

They are the insect of a soul.

syche" — this is what Aristotle, with his interest in the metamorphosis of insects, named the butterfly in ancient Greece. Many other cultures also relate butterflies to the human soul.

"I love experimentation.” says Daniela. “Sometimes I draw, cut and paste, and then I sand and start all over again on the surfaces that remain to create new and different textures."

"Mysterious and symbolic, butterflies are a beautiful metaphor representing spiritual rebirth, transformation, hope and life," says Costa Rican artist Daniela Vargas-Winiker.

Breaking borders and taking her art to unsuspected latitudes, by exposing her works both nationally and internationally, is what VargasWiniker considers one of the most significant aspects of her career.

Growing up in the countryside, near a volcano, Daniela was surrounded by nature and animals, and enjoyed a lot of freedom. Having these connections with days full of adventure and exploration fueled her artistic creativity. Later, living in the capital city of San José, she was surrounded by exposure to art.

The strengthening of Daniela's knowledge and skills, and the emergence of her own style and focus, is attributed to her participation at numerous workshops of prominent Costa Rican artists, such as Gonzalo Morales Saurez, Guillermo Porras On, Rodrigo Brenes and Marijose Teran.

"Butterflies have been my theme and inspiration for many years," Vargas-Winiker tells us. "They represent brevity and instability in mortal life, with their amazing change from a caterpillar to a butterfly. I liken it to the journey of a soul, from a physical body to a divine one. They are the insect of the soul."

Themes developed by Daniela are created with much study and research, whether she is replicating the insects of Costa Rica or embellishing with her imagination.

Combining multiple materials such as oil, graphite, gold or silver leaf or varnish, allows her to create layers of relief to make the medium feel organic.

As Daniela notes, "Through painting I express myself. My ideas, thoughts and feelings become captured on the canvas, providing satisfaction, peace and joy, with the intention to carry a universal, positive and inspirational message to the viewers."

For more of Daniela's photos and Gallery information, click here. You can see the permanent exhibit of Daniela Vargas-Winiker at the Hidden Garden Art Gallery, located 5 kms. west of the Daniel Oduber (Guanacaste) International Airport. For more information, visit www.HiddenGardenArt.com or email: info@HiddenGardenArt.com.

Minding Your Money and Your Wellness in 2020

Art by Daniela Vargas-Winiker

REAL ESTATE

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