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EDITORIAL
Wake Up!
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elcome to Costa Rica ... pura vida. Now, let us wake up to the realities that exist not only here but around the world when you leave your borders and attempt to start up a new life abroad. First, those of us visiting or living here are guests in this country. Even if you came from abroad and are now a permanent resident of Costa Rica, you are still a guest. We have a duty to abide by the laws of the land, which includes respecting the environment. The old adage “leave no footprint“ really applies here. Make this place better than it was when you arrived. It continually shocks me when people say things like, “We could do that better; back home we do it this way,” and on and on. Well, wake up — you are not HOME. You chose this place as a sort of paradise, so now accept it and live it. Typical relocation challenges and adjustments in Costa Rica range from quite funny to very concerning. Bashed
dreams are not uncommon. Some seemingly helpful people pop up and tout themselves as the honest ones, or your protectors. The reality, people: you have to protect yourselves. Relying on your guts’ first instinct is a great first line of defense. Many of us who moved here were lured by marketing and sales inducements. Some have been duped by developers offering amenities that don’t exist or false promises they fail to fulfill. Do your homework. Google as many people who may be connected to a development as you possibly can. Ask for references and check them out. An amusing instance comes to mind, taking me back to a casual conversation around the table at our poolside palapa. While discussing our property developer, a friend told us about her decision to purchase and move here. My off-the-cuff response was to ask, “Did the developer offer to make you a realtor once you bought here?” She looked at me in shock and said, “Why yes!” It seems that this sales angle has been taken all too often as an added incentive to unwitting buyers. “Hey, you’re retiring in Costa Rica. As a buyer, why not sign up to sell properties once you get settled in. You can be a realtor here.” Reality: NO, it’s not that simple. Becoming a realtor in Costa Rica LEGALLY is neither a quick nor straightforward process. According to the Costa Rica Immigration Law (Ley General De Migracion Y De Extranjeria, No. 8764), a foreign real estate agent is
only qualified to work for a salary, wages, or a commission income, who holds Permanent Residency immigration status, free of conditions. Awareness of the ethical standards and governing bodies for professions in Costa Rica — including real estate — is also vitally important. Please be familiar with what is taught. Ethics and morals are often used interchangeably in everyday language. However, in a professional context, ethics are the rules set by appropriate sources as codes of conduct. Morals refer to the individual’s principles regarding right and wrong, which can extend to the use or misuse of ethics codes. Look for future Howler articles about the realities of dealing with people who cannot or will not do things right. Some believe they can get away with anything or that pitfalls can be fixed with a bribe later. Bribes might still be accepted but they are never acceptable. Those who give them and those who take them risk exposure. Both actions are crimes. I am living in paradise now. Many people contend that Costa Rica is the wild west and a third-world country. Wake up! It is neither. Costa Rica is emerging. Along with that growth come realities that people doing things wrong can ignore at their peril. Beware, oversight is not a new word. Doing things right means you don’t have to justify yourself.
John B. Quam
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HOWLER
CO N T E N T S 10
Photo: Pafnuti / Shutterstock.com
Up Front
4 - Editorial: Wake Up! 6 - Contributors and Howler Troop 10 - Cover Story: Have More Fun on the Move
14 Travel & Adventure 14 - Cool Places: Unusual Things to See and Do 16 - Featured Locales: Five Peak Experiences 18 - Out and About: Tips for a Better Bus Ride 20 - Creature Eco-Feature: Sea Turtles Forever
Adventure Travel Options Cover Story
22 Surfing Costa Rica
Saving Sea Turtles Creature Eco-Feature
20 Robert August Outing
26 ACE Feature
34 ACE - Arts Culture Entertainment 34 - ACE Feature: Semana Santa Celebrations 36 - Folklore Feature: Semana Santa Superstitions 38 - Cultural Heritage: Unsolved Mystery of the Spheres 40 - Surviving CR: Cigarette Boat Surprise
42 Pura Vida - Living Costa Rica
Surf Legend
Semana Santa Time
22 - Mar / Apr Moon, Sunset and Sunrise Chart 22 - Mar / Apr Surfing Events 23 - March Tide Chart 24 - April Tide Chart 26 - Surf Stuff of Legend: Witch’s Rock 28 - Surf Spot: Esterillos Oeste 30 - Surf Profile: Dean Bushby 32 - CR Surf Trek: Ollie’s After an Epic Storm
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42 - Wellness Feature: Oculoplastic Surgery 44 - Doctor is In: Walk Away Your Years 46 - Animal Life: Unwavering Passionate Purpose 48 - Animal Life: Owen’s Miracle Recovery 50 - Mindfulness: Healing from Deep Within 52 - Fashion Flash: Planning Your Family Photo Shoot
Flip Mini-Mags CR Biz & Dining Guide
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owler is pleased to feature in this issue’s Pura Vida section another touching Animal Life story of compassion and hope for wildlife victims of electrocution. “Owen’s Miracle Recovery” informs readers about the lengths that caregivers at Refuge for Wildlife went to help one severely injured howler monkey beat the odds.
As a wildlife photographer, filmmaker, and writer Laura Wilkinson is passionate about raising awareness of the issues negatively impacting Costa Rican wildlife. Working with the Nosara-based wildlife rescue center, Refuge for Wildlife, Laura has been documenting and sharing heartwarming stories that show the hard work and dedication required to rescue, rehabilitate and release injured wildlife.
WRITERS Joanna Blanco. An integrative nutritional health coach who helps clients embrace wellness in five interconnected areas of life: relationships, livelihood, physical activity, spiritual awareness and diet. Alei Burns. The Bookstore of the Waves owner, New York-raised librarian, passionate book and surf lover. Maria Laura Charles. Digital marketing strategist, content creator, experience designer and empathy activist. Creator of Casa Narime & La Marea. WhatsApp: +506 88792145. Juan Diego Evangelista. Owner of Cheboards and native of Argentina. Dedicated surfer and surfboard shaper since childhood. Ellen Zoe Golden. Former entertainment biz PR flack, now living the dream as a travel agent and journalist in Tamarindo. Debra Goode. Owner of SaalGoode Services and Co-Chair for Dog Day Afternoon 2020, benefiting Barbara’s Animal Rescue in Playa Flamingo. saalgoodeservices@gmail.com Ivan Granados. Managing Partner at GM Attorneys. He specializes in real estate and corporate law. igranados@ gmattorneyscr.com. Diana Groza. Nashville, Tennessee native with a master’s degree in education, now holding an administrative position with Arte Facial in San José, Costa Rica. Karl Kahler. Author of "Frommer's Costa Rica 2017," former travel editor of the Tico Times and former national editor of California's San Jose Mercury News. Tom Knight. Writer living in the Tamarindo area. Jodee Lynette. Owner of a small local hotel has more than 25 years' experience with U.S. rental properties and vacation rentals. Tu-Can Property Management SRL Admin@tu-canpropertymanagementcr.com Cell/ WhatsApp: 2654-5519 or 8854-4947 Laura Méndez. Founder of Pura Vida Vibrations. Offering sound journeys, breath work experiences, cacao ceremonies & other activities. hello@ puravidavibrations.com Jim Parisi. Former owner of Jaime Peligro Bookstore, now called "Bookstore of the Waves". Tamarindo resident for 16 years. jaimepeligro123@hotmail.com Paul Pitura. Former journalist with CBC in Canada, now managing Drift Away Eco-Lodge in Playa Avellanas, Guanacaste and playing guitar at local venues.
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Mario Molina Salazar. Sustainable traveler and cultural manager of my art organization Costa Rica en la Pared. Street art and its impact to transform communities. costaricaenlapared@gmail.com Sandy Sandoval. Bilingual freelance journalist focusing on environment, arts and culture. www.clippings.me/ sandysandoval Eric Scharf. Current Chairman of the Board of Directors, Costa Rican Investment Promotion Agency (CINDE). A lawyer who graduated from the University of Costa Rica and Columbia University School of Law in New York with extensive experience in the public and private sectors. Tom Schultz. BS Biology and Geology, avid birder and nature photographer, retired software executive. tom@ pananima.com Emily Simmons. Professional content writer with a background in cultural anthropology. For creative works and marketing assistance: WhatsApp 8460-7714 or simmons.emilyg@gmail.com Patricia Sterman. Argentinian fashion design graduate, living in Costa Rica for 20 years. Owner of Azul Profundo Boutique, jewelry manufacturer and cofounder of SalveMonos animal protection group. Herbert Weinman, MD, MBA. thedoctorisinsharkfm@ gmail.com
PHOTOGRAPHY Mario Avendaño. Costa Rican operator of Epic Surf Trips in Playas del Coco: www.epicsurftripscr.com Contact: 8835 1098 or info@epicsurftripscr.com @EpicSurfTrips Luis Felipe Murillo Castillo. Costa Rican air traffic controller, aviation enthusiast, traveler, naturalist, coffee lover and adventurous amateur photographer. Instagram @lfmc_photos or @lima__fox Christian Diaz. Costa Rican surf photographer @diazcarvs José Madrigal. Costa Rican surf photographer @ chonfotos Tony Roberts. Lifelong surfer, skater, artist, musician, photographer and filmmaker. Go-to guy for tourist surfers in Costa Rica, Nicaragua, El Salvador, Panama and the Caribbean with his company Real Surf Trips. tr@tonyrobertsphoto.com or realsurftrips.com Carla Rowlings. Canadian photographer and part-time Costa Rica resident. See her surf images online at Mandala Photography Atlantic.
Mar / Apr 2020 Vol. 25 No. 2 PUBLISHER / EDITOR-in-CHIEF John B. Quam C r e at i v e D i r e c t o r Nikki Durling BUSINESS DEVELOpmENT John B. Quam E d i t o r i a l S ta f f Debbie Bride - Editorial Coordinator Laurie Quam - Copy Editor Graphic Design Cover Design: Nikki Durling John B. Quam - Design Consultant O p e r at i o n s Marynes Fernández - Office Manager Sales Terry Carlile - Sales Consultant Kelly Norris - Jacó Sales Consultant C o n ta c t
John Quam - Managing Partner headmonkey@howlermag.com Editor: editor@howlermag.com Advertising: info@howlermag.com CR Office: (506) 4701-5942 US Office: (303) 952-0337 (leave message) Howler Magazine Costa Rica @thehowlermag @howlermagazine The Howler Gold Coast CR S.A. Ced. Juridica: 3-101-725213 HOWLER (™) 2017 The opinions, beliefs and viewpoints expressed by the various authors in this publication do not necessarily reflect the opinions, beliefs and viewpoints of Howler organization or its advertisers.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, distributed, or transmitted in any form or by any means, including photocopying, recording, or other electronic or mechanical methods, without the prior written permission of the publisher, except in the case of brief quotations embodied in critical reviews and certain other noncommercial uses permitted by copyright law. For permission requests write to: info@howlermag.com. The Howler Magazine does not assume responsibility for the content of its advertisements. Images not credited are acquired from stock photography services.
Copyright © 2019 The Howlerhowlermag.com Gold Coast CR S.A.
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 9
COVER STORY
Rafting on Pacuare River Photo:Pafnuti / Shutterstock.com
Adventure Connections An Exciting and Easier Way to Travel
by Mario Molina Salazar & Maria Laura Charles
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hen you finally decide to make your first trip to Costa Rica, or even a return visit, the choices of amazing places to go and things to do can be overwhelming. For many, the allure of pristine tropical beaches is irresistible, just like the chance to see monkeys for the first time or take surfing lessons. Or maybe you envision a cloud forest immersion through wildlife-inhabited hiking trails and hanging bridges with breathtaking 360 degree views. Where to begin? Although Costa Rica is a small country, some destinations take up to six hours of road travel time, whether driving your own rental vehicle, on board public buses or as a private shuttle passenger. What if we told you there is an easier and much cheaper way to travel — not just getting from point A to point B safely, but also while enjoying some once-in-alifetime experiences en route? Adventure travel connections are the way to go! Transform a long and potentially boring road trip into an exciting adventure from one fascinating place to the next, accomplishing two goals at once. Costa Rica’s vast range of adventure connection options can help you save money
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and time. It’s an easy, efficient and safe combination of transportation, sightseeing and above all, FUN! It’s not hard to find an ideal adventure connection trip that’s suitable for solo travellers or fits your whole family. Many travel companies offer a variety of excursions with different types of activities and intensity levels.
Connecting the map dots
Costa Rica’s capital city, San José, is located in the Central Valley. Its distinctive urban culture, gastronomy, public art and museums are some of the well-kept secrets that many tourists have yet to discover. We definitely recommend a long-enough stopover in San José to explore the wonders of this vibrant city. In fact, San José is the first and last stop for almost all of Costa Rica’s signature destinations, including Arenal Volcano, the Caribbean Coast, Monteverde Cloud Forest, Pacific coast beaches and many more locales. You can easily begin your adventure connection from here! West of San José is Arenal Volcano, located near La Fortuna in the province of Alajuela. The conic symmetry and massive stature of Arenal can have a seductive effect howlermag.com
Tenorio River
Horseback riding in La Fortuna
San JosĂŠ, the capital of Costa Rica Photo: Daniel Korzeniewski / Shutterstock.com
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COVER STORY on seekers of nature-infused exhilaration. Hot springs, waterfalls and paddleboarding on Lake Arenal make this area a must-see paradise. La Fortuna, known as the gateway to Arenal Volcano National Park, is a destination worth visiting for the thrill of the journey that can take you there. The most exciting way to reach the town is a white water rafting trip on the Pacuare River, through the middle of virgin tropical rainforest. It’s one of the most popular and spectacular spots for rafting in Costa Rica. After finishing your Arenal adventure, you’ll head on to the next stop and be dropped off at your accommodations, either in Puerto Viejo or San José. Closer to Costa Rica’s Pacific coast is Monteverde Cloud Forest. Well known for its magnificence and density of wildlife, it is located in the province of Puntarenas but very close to Guanacaste. Monteverde is an ideal place for ziplining over the lush, mystical canopy and traversing across the cloud forestensconced hanging bridges. You can enjoy exceptional hiking amidst enormous trees, more than 500 species of beautiful orchids and a dazzling array of birds, butterflies and monkeys. Travel connections from Monteverde to Arenal or Manuel Antonio can incorporate rafting down the Tenorio River or hiking to Rio Celeste, a beautiful turquoise-colored river in Tenorio National Park. You can also follow scenic horseback riding trails in the vicinity of Arenal Volcano. Further south along the central Pacific coast is Quepos, about two hours past the popular beach town of Jacó. Quepos is at the entrance to Manuel Antonio National Park, one of the most important nature reserves of Costa Rica, and where an idyllic
It’s an easy, efficient and safe combination of transportation, sightseeing and above all, FUN! blend of jungle and beach life can be experienced. If you’re quiet and watchful enough, you might see deer, monkeys, toucans and even sloths in this protected area. From this natural gem, Quepos is another adventure connection point between Arenal, Monteverde or San José. Your trip might include a crocodile boat ride down the Tarcoles River, or a hike through the easily accessible Carara National Park, home to the majestic scarlet macaws. Crossing the country eastbound will lead you to Puerto Viejo, located on the south Caribbean coast. Known for its unique blend of Latino, Afro-Caribbean and Bribri indigenous cultures, this lively beach town has a vibrant energy conducive to both fun and relaxation. From the crystal clear blue waters to the exotic flora and fauna, there are many reasons to enjoy vacationing in Puerto Viejo. The travel possibilities are no less diverse en route to or from Puerto Viejo, as the Caribbean connection point between San José or Arenal. The ultimate adventure would include stopping
Ziplining in Monteverde Photo: TG23 / Shutterstock.com
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Boat tours on Lake Arenal at the aforementioned Rio Pacuare, where the choices await for paddling down the river, hiking to a waterfall, swimming and relaxing.
What’s included?
Depending on the type of tour and date, prices for adventure connections range around $99 per person. Most activities include transportation, secure luggage storage during your trips, training, safety equipment, guides, breakfast and lunch. What else can you ask for?
How can I book?
Quite a few different tour and transportation companies in Costa Rica can arrange these types of adventure connections for you.
Kayaking on the Pacuare River. Photo: Pafnuti / Shutterstock.com
Beach in Manuel Antonio
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 13
TRAVEL & ADVENTURE
Nine Unusually Cool Things To Do in Costa Rica by Mario Molina Salazar & Maria Laura Charles powdered milk and condensed milk, topped with ice cream or fruit. There’s no better way to beat the heat than with a delicious Churchill at the beach! 3. See ancient stone spheres, untouched by time
Dogs at Territorio de Zaguates Photo: Kaylee Greer www.instagram.com/dogbreathphotography/
Time has stood still at Finca 6, a UNESCO World Heritage Site where pre-Colombian stone spheres of mysterious indigenous origin have never been removed since their discovery. You can visit the museum and be captivated by the majestic spheres as you tour the former farm property located at Palmar Sur, Osa. For details, see the article on page 40 in this Howler issue.
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hen contemplating fun things to do in Costa Rica, you've probably heard a lot about ziplining adventures over the cloud forest, horseback riding on white sand beaches or ATV rides through jungle trails. All are obvious choices on many a traveler’s bucket list. However, Costa Rica offers much more in the way of less familiar cool and unusual experiences, unlike anywhere else you might ever visit. Here are nine examples. 1.
Play with a thousand stray dogs
COOL PLACES
Territorio de Zaguates is a dog rescue center located on a vast expanse of rural property in the mountains of Alajuela, Costa Rica. Just imagine yourself walking down a hill surrounded by more than 1,000 happy and hospitable stray dogs. Delight in the enthusiasm of your four-legged companions exploring a paradise beyond any dog-lover’s imagination! You can also support this remarkable animal welfare cause online by visiting www.territoriodezaguates.com 2.
Taste a traditional Tico dessert on the beach The tourist center of El Paseo de los Turistas in Puntarenas is a popular place to sample one of Costa Rica’s most famous sweet treats, the Churchill. This irresistible confection consists of shaved ice, kola syrup,
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Churchill, a popular beach vendor offering howlermag.com
4.
Enjoy a sunset from a hilltop graffiti-painted ruin
7.
Ride a bike along the Caribbean jungle
El Miro Ruins at Jacó is a perfect lookout point and hike destination. Time your arrival for a breathtaking panoramic view of the Pacific coast at sunset. Vibrantly painted murals all around the ruin site are another hiking highlight. 5.
Visit a haunted and abandoned hospital
Manzanillo Park on south Caribbean coast You haven’t truly experienced Puerto Viejo on Costa Rica’s south Caribbean coast until you rent a bicycle and travel eight miles through the jungle to reach stunning Manzanillo Reserve.
Sanatorio Duran, a deserted hospital in Cartago Sanatorio Duran in Cartago was once an orphanage and health rehabilitation facility, and later a prison. After eventually being closed permanently, it became internationally famous as a haunted tourist attraction in Costa Rica.
Remember: the best (driest) time of year to visit the Caribbean is generally September and October, unlike most other regions of Costa Rica where rainfall tends to peak during those months. 8.
Take a thrilling plunge in a volcano setting
We dare you to take the full tour without getting goosebumps!
El Salto Rope Swing may be one of the most fun and scenic spots you will ever find to plunge into a 12-foot deep swimming hole beneath a waterfall. In fact, it’s at the base of two small waterfalls in Rio Fortuna, right next to Arenal Volcano. Swing, jump and swim in the river!
Learn more in the June 2018 Hower article: howlermag.com/ costa-rica-haunted-hospital/ 6.
Explore Costa Rica’s version of Alcatraz Island San Lucas Island Prison is located in the Gulf of Nicoya. Before closing in 1991, it operated for nearly 120 years as Costa Rica’s maximum-security federal prison, housing the most dangerous criminals in the country. As a modern tourist attraction, the abandoned ruins provide tangible evidence of what inmates endured as depicted in their wall drawings and graffiti, while leaving plenty to visitors’ imaginations. Learn more in the May 2018 Howler cover story: howlermag.com/2018/05/cover-story-hell-hotel-san-lucasisland-prison/
Rio Fortuna near Arenal Volcano Photo: Written In Silver Visuals / Shutterstock.com 9.
Relax under an immense jungle waterfall Nauyaca is by far one of the most spectacular waterfalls in Costa Rica. While visiting Dominical, Manuel Antonio, Perez Zeledon or Corcovado, make sure to stop and spend time at this watery wonder. Swim, jump, horseback ride or just relax! It’s an invigorating experience you will never forget.
Main pier of San Lucas Island. Puntarenas Photo: Rodtico21
Learn more in the January 2018 Howler article: howlermag. com/2018/01/4510/
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 15
TRAVEL & ADVENTURE
Cerro Chirripo
To Reach the Highest Peaks S FEATURED LOCALES
everal of Costa Rica’s highest mountain peaks retain the name they were given by native Americans. They were an integral part of indegenous cultures, revered by the civilizations who lived here for millenia. Let’s hope the human race can continue to show reverence for Mother Nature, including these five spectacular summits listed in descending order of altitude.
1. Cerro Chirripo
Standing atop Cerro Chirripo Grande on a clear day, you can see the Carribean Ocean some 40 miles to the east. And from the same vantage point you can spot the Pacific Ocean on the western horizon, about 35 miles from the mountaintop. At an altitude surpassing 3,800 meters (just over 12,600 feet), Chirripo is Costa Rica’s highest peak. Getting there begins with a 10-mile hike from the town of San Gerardo de Rivas to the ranger station in La Amistad International Park. Then comes another three-mile trek to the peak. Chirripo harbors five ecosystems, including the primary cloud forest — “cloud islands” — at the topmost level. The weather station there records hail several times a year, but no snow has occurred in the last century. Stories of snow being common in an earlier age are now perceived largely as folklore. The mountain’s native American name chirripo translates as “land of many waters.”
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Costa Rica’s Top Five By Jim Parisi and Alei Burns
2. Cerro Ventisqueros
Costa Rica’s second highest peak is Cerro Ventisqueros, with an elevation just 30 meters shorter than its neighboring “big brother” Chirripo. Most hikers opt for the latter towering peak, so Ventisquero is much less frequented. Some consider this an ideal reason to visit Ventisqueros, even stating a preference for the “little brother” view. Permits are required from the Ventisqueros ranger station, where blankets are rented for one dollar a day. Night temperatures can dip below the freezing point on the peak, with a terrain that has been compared to Andean elevations. Below the treeline (3,000 meters), tapirs are commonly seen and the bird life, including quetzals and the endangered harpy eagle, is spectacular.
3. Cerro Kamuk
Approximately 60 kilometers due south, near the Costa Rica/Panama border, is Cerro Kamuk, a mountain named by the indigenous Bribri people who still inhabit this forest in La Amistad International Park. Standing almost exactly 300 meters shorter than Chirripo, Kamuk is the third highest peak in Costa Rica. Plan to spend four days on hiking trails that are constantly overgrown with brush to reach the top of Kamuk, which means
howlermag.com Panoramic view of Cerro de la Muerta
“place of rest.” Traversing more than a dozen lower peaks along the way, the average daily hike takes about eight hours. The area is home to several large cat species including the jaguar. It also harbors dozens of different varieties of mushrooms. With Kamuk’s density of biodiverse species unmatched by any similarly sized conservation area in the world, visitors are required to be accompanied by a certified guide. Precautions to preserve this fragile ecosystem include the use of only new hiking equipment, ensuring that no foreign spores, mildew and micro-organisms are introduced. In short, Kamuk mountain trips are for serious naturalists.
4. Cerro de la Muerta
The Talamanca mountain range became separated from its neighboring elevated areas by a tectonic uplift. The result is an endemic ecosystem that resembles Andean plant and animal species. The highest Talamanca peak is Cerro de la Muerta, translated as “Summit of Death,” an appropriate name at one time. In the early 20th century, crossing by horseback or on foot from the Central Valley took three or four days. To accommodate travelers along the way, when temperatures commonly drop below freezing, cabins were constructed in 1908. History can be a cruel mistress but Cerro de la Muerta has since been tamed. Construction of the Pan-American Highway has made it possible to access the fourth highest spot in Costa Rica by hiking less than a mile up a wellmaintained trail. From a marked sign on the paved road, the path gently ascends only 100 meters along the way. It’s a favorite area for amateur ornithologists to see an array of avian species including the timberline wren, the peg-billed finch and the famed quetzal. The Orosi River is a popular trout fishing spot.
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5. Volcan Irazú
The fifth highest peak on our list happens to be Costa Rica’s tallest active volcano, Irazú, reaching 3,440 meters (about 11,000 feet) high. Located in the Cordillera Central, near the city of Cartago, Volcan Irazú actually contains several craters at its summit. Most notably, Diego de la Haya holds a green crater lake whose depth varies according to rainfall levels. Irazú Volcano National Park is home to the armadillo, fox, owl, woodpecker and a variety of hummingbirds. There is now a road leading right up to the summit craters, making the volcano a popular tourist attraction. Since 1723, Irazú has erupted at least 23 times, on average every 13 years. The last recorded eruption occurred on December 8, 1994. Photo courtesy of sylivaguardia.com
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HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 17
TRAVEL & ADVENTURE
Bus station in Cariari. Photo: Matyas Rehak / Shutterstock.com
Bus Trip Tips
by Mario Molina Salazar and Maria Laura Charles
Ten Pointers for a Smoother Ride
W OUT AND ABOUT
hen traveling around Costa Rica on a budget, public transportation is definitely the best option. But there are certain things you simply would not know or could not possibly guess when trying to catch buses from one place to the next in this country, especially if they are not popular tourist destinations. We compiled a list of tips that might be useful on your next Costa Rican adventure by bus. 1.
San José, the capital city, is also the country’s main transportation center. The most popular stations are located here, with buses leaving and coming from all parts of the country. Examples include Terminal 7-10, Los Caribeños and Tralapa. 2. When you are at a bus stop waiting as the next bus approaches, you can see the name of its destination on the windshield. 3. Bus schedules can change from one season to the next, so we recommend always confirming the departure time when you buy your ticket or call the bus company beforehand. 4. Some bus stops are not marked, so when asking
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for directions pay attention to every detail. Be ready to wait for your bus under a mango tree or outside a small house. 5. When traveling longer distances, you should buy your ticket in advance — either at the bus station or online through the company’s website (although some don’t offer this option) — to save your seat and avoid standing throughout the whole ride. 6. It’s really helpful to know some Spanish. Some useful phrases to learn are: Where is the bus stop? ¿Dónde está la parada? How much does it cost? ¿Cuánto cuesta? Does this bus stop at ____? ¿Este bus para en ____? 7. It’s important to know that long-distance bus trips include 15-minute rest stops where you can eat quickly or use the bathroom (some bathrooms can charge around 200 colones). Always keep an eye on your belongings. 8. If paying the bus driver directly when boarding the bus, you must pay in cash. You can expect
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change if you don’t give the exact amount. When using buses in the Central Valley, be sure to notice whether there are two electronic bars on the stairs after entering the doors. Once you pass beyond these bars you MUST PAY, even if you find out it’s the wrong bus. Therefore, try to ask the bus driver from outside before you hop on board. 10. Last but not least, we recommend lots of patience. Public transportation does not always run smoothly in Costa Rica, for reasons unrelated to road conditions. Whether it’s the bus breaking down, someone falling asleep next to you, or having no air conditioning during your entire ride to the beach, our best advice is to expect the unexpected. 9.
Visit our authentic working range located in a cool and refresing climate!
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Some bus stops are not marked, so when asking for directions pay attention to every detail.
Come experience the PURE Costa Rica 80 minute drive from Liberia Airport
Farm-to-table meals included, private hiking trails, fishing, swimming, horseback riding, yoga, massage and birdwatching.
www.lacarolinalodge.com US (843) 343-4201 / CR 2466-6393 info@lacarolinalodge.com
Largest Gallery in Costa Rica
Bus Stop in San José
Mountain road in Monteverde
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 19
TRAVEL & ADVENTURE
Sea Turtles Forever Turning Poachers Into Protectors by Paul Pitura
P
CREATURE ECO-FEATURE
oachers got to the nest in Playa Lagartillo first. Where there should have been dozens of sea turtle eggs buried in the beach, there was just a hole. The eggs had been stolen by human hands, to be sold on the black market as aphrodisiacs (a myth). Carlos came across the raided nest in the middle of the night, the time when turtles often lay their eggs. He patrols the beach south of Tamarindo for the conservation group Sea Turtles Forever (STF). Besides contributing to research and education, night after night STF patrollers race poachers in order to relocate the eggs in secret locations away from the turtle’s tell-tale tracks. This time, Carlos lost the race. But STF has many more success stories. STF saves 5,000 to 12,000 eggs every year. Every egg saved is another chance that a sea turtle will hatch, reproduce and help the population recover. STF pays local residents, even some former poachers, more money than they would make selling the eggs. These patrollers scan the Guanacaste beaches of Los Pargos/Playa Negra, where turtle populations have been decimated by illegal egg takes, fishing nets and coastal development. The organization’s mission is a passion for Nancy Tankersley, who returns to Los Pargos every January and February to serve as volunteer biologist for STF — a far cry from her home in subarctic Alaska. So how did Tankersley become a sea turtle conservationist in Costa Rica? You'd have to go back 30 years, to a starlit night on Playa Grande, just north of Tamarindo, during a two-week natural history tour. “Our guide found a leatherback on the beach digging a nest,” she recalled. “We witnessed the whole nesting event,
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then encountered a nest of baby leatherbacks just hatching. The whole night was magical and unforgettable. So, when my kids went off to college, I started volunteering for sea turtle projects and found this one in 2012.” Since then, Tankersley has been instrumental in saving thousands of turtle eggs on Pargos beaches. “When Marc and Rachel Ward founded STF about 20 years ago, almost 100 percent of the eggs were taken illegally,” she said. “With our patrollers on the beach every night during the nesting season and growing community support, poaching has dropped to less than 10 percent.”
Spreading awareness
Sea Turtles Forever spreads its conservation message in any way it can. Tankersley welcomes tourists to join her night patrols. Patrollers visit local schools to educate youth. STF raises money through donations and grants. $100 US lets donors adopt and name a tagged sea turtle. And every bit helps to sustain the depressed populations. “There was a time when 300 green sea turtles would nest per night around Los Pargos, but now we see 0-2 nests per night,” Tankersley noted. Grim numbers, but there's hope. After losing the first nest to poachers at Playa Lagartillo, the next night Carlos was on beach patrol duty, he saw men hovering around another turtle. He went to chase the thieves off, only to find the young men had actually protected the turtle’s eggs from poachers while it was laying them. And it was a special turtle — one that STF had tagged 10 years ago. Carlos took all the 52 ping-pong-ball-sized eggs (the average nest contains 60) and moved them to another beach location. There he dug a hole, placed the eggs inside and covered them up with no evidence to suggest anything was underneath. In about 55 days the hatchlings will emerge and scramble to the ocean, oblivious to the close call they had. With this new generation of turtles comes a new generation of protectors instead of poachers.
Volunteer biologist Nancy Tankersley reaches into a fresh turtle nest to scoop out the eggs before poachers do. howlermag.com Photos: Nancy Tankersley
How to Help Sea Turtles
W
e can all do our part! These suggestions come from Nancy Tankersley, volunteer biologist at Sea Turtles Forever: www.seaturtlesforever.org
•
Don't eat turtle eggs at local bars and restaurants. Illegal eggs are often sold as legal or "certificados" from Ostional, but many are not legal.
•
Don't drive on soft beach sand. It makes it hard for turtles to dig nests and almost impossible for baby turtles to dig out after hatching underneath.
•
Minimize the use of white lights on the beach at night during nesting/hatching season (mainly October to May on Costa Rica’s Pacific coast). Use red lights on headlamps or cover flashlights with red cellophane.
•
Pick up litter on the beach, especially plastic. It fragments and absorbs toxic compounds in the ocean, which can be ingested by turtles and other marine life.
•
Don't cut or burn wood from beach trees. They provide an important turtle nesting habitat and keep the sand moist for nests. Campfires can overheat nests underneath the sand (mostly from October to May).
•
Donate to www.seaturtlesforever.org/donate or another ocean conservation group.
STF patrol officer scans the beaches around Los Pargos/Playa Negra for beaching turtles and poachers.
May 9-15, 2020 Includes: 6 nights at Drift Away Eco-Lodge Twice-daily yoga classes 3 Meals a day Cacao ceremony Transfer to/from Liberia airport Prices start at less than $1000/pp STF Lead Patroller William Zuniga and volunteer biologist Nancy Tankersley celebrate a successful nest relocation.
info@driftawayecolodge.com +506 2652 9086 driftawayecolodge.com HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 21
SURFIN G HOWLER
MOON PHASES
March 2 April 1 April 30 1st Quarter
COSTA RICA
March 9 April 7 Full Moon
March 16 April 14 3rd Quarter
March 24 April 22 New Moon
Real Surf Trips with Tony
Surfing now more than ever can save you from a life of stress! With lifestyles becoming more complicated and calendar pages seemingly flying by, it is necessary now more than ever to take some time out. Book a flight, contact us, come surf and relax. With some long days under your belt and some good waves in the tank, you will be surprised how productive you will be in all aspects of life!
MARCH Mondays, Mar 2, 9, 16, 23, 30 - 4pm - Santa Teresa, Banana Beach Club Saturdays, Mar 7, 14, 21, 28 - 4pm - Playa Hermosa, Backyard Bar Sat-Sun, Mar 7-8 - Playa Avellanas, Circuito Guanacasteco de Surf Sat, Mar 14 - Villa Amarilla, Tamarindo, Robert August Surf & Turf Charity Challenge (Day 2) Sat-Sun, Mar 21-22 - Guiones, 2020 Circuito Nacional de Surf
APRIL
Saturdays, Apr 4, 11, 18, 25 - 4pm - Playa Hermosa, Backyard Bar Mondays, Apr 6, 13, 20, 27 - 4pm - Santa Teresa, Banana Beach Club Sat-Sun, Apr 18-19 - Santa Teresa, 2020 Circuito Nacional de Surf
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SUNRISE March 1 March 31
5:53 am 5:36 am
April 1 April 30
5:36 am 5:22 am
SUNSET March 1 March 31
5:49 pm 5:49 pm
April 1 April 30
5:49 pm 5:50 pm
howlermag.com
TIDE CHART DAY
HIGH TIDES
April 1 - 30, 2020
LOW TIDES
HIGH TIDES
LOW TIDES
HIGH TIDES
7 Tue
1:50 am
8:08 am
2:05 pm
8:29 pm
2 Thu
2:48 am
9:12 am
3:09 pm
9:37 pm
3 Fri
3:54 am
10:22 am
4:23 pm
10:49 pm
4 Sat
5:04 am
11:30 am
5:35 pm
11:57 pm
5 Sun
6:08 am
12:30 pm
6:39 pm
6 Mon
12:57 am
7:04 am
1:24 pm
7:35 pm
7 Tue
1:49 am
7:54 am
2:14 pm
8:25 pm
8 Wed
2:39 am
8:44 am
3:02 pm
9:13 pm
9 Thu
3:27 am
9:30 am
3:48 pm
10:01 pm
10 Fri
4:15 am
10:18 am
4:34 am
10:49 pm
11 Sat
5:03 am
11:04 am
5:22 pm
11:37 pm
12 Sun
5:51 am
SURF
11:52 am
6:12 pm
13 Mon
12:27 am
6:43 am
12:44 pm
7:04 pm
14 Tue
1:19 am
7:41 am
1:40 pm
8:02 pm
15 Wed
2:19 am
8:43 am
2:46 pm
9:08 pm
16 Thu
3:25 am
9:53 am
4:00 pm
10:18 pm
17 Fri
4:37 am
11:03 am
5:14 pm
11:26 pm
18 Sat
5:41 am
12:03 pm
6:18 pm
19 Sun
12:24 am
6:35 am
12:53 pm
7:08 pm
20 Mon
1:14 am
7:19 am
1:35 pm
7:48 pm
21 Tue
1:56 am
7:59 am
2:13 pm
8:24 pm
22 Wed
2:34 am
8:33 am
2:47 pm
8:58 pm
23 Thu
3:10 am
9:07 am
3:21 pm
9:32 pm
24 Fri
3:44 am
9:41 am
3:55 pm
10:06 pm
25 Sat
4:20 am
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26 Sun
4:56 am
10:49 am
5:05 pm
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27 Mon
5:32 am
11:25 am
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11:56 pm
28 Tue
6:12 am
12:07 pm
6:23 pm
29 Wed
12:38 am
6:58 am
12:53 pm
7:11 pm
30 Thu
1:16 am
7:50 am
1:49 pm
8:07 pm
EAT STRETCH SLEEP REPEAT #gogrande
We h a v e y o u c o v e r e d . Free 2 hr
Board Rental with surf lesson
simply mention
HOWLER 24
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Sunset
Happy hour
Daily, 4-6 2x1 cocktails 1000c beers Discount bocas menu
www.ripjackinn.com howlermag.com
SURFING COSTA RICA
Photo: José Madrigal
Witch’s Rock With Robert August By Ellen Zoe Golden
R SURF STUFF OF LEGEND
obert August’s jokes are pretty corny. Yet, it’s a privilege hearing them told by someone who happens to be a surfing legend. At age 18, the Huntington Beach, California native starred with pal Mike Hynson in the 1966 global exploratory surf film “Endless Summer.” Arguably one of the most widely viewed surfing movies was followed 28 years later by its sequel, “Endless Summer II.” During production, August hosted co-stars Robert “Wingnut” Weaver and Pat O’Connell for a segment filmed in his beloved adopted town of Tamarindo. So, it was pretty damn opportune for me listening to August during our 45-minute boat ride from Playas del Coco out to Witch’s Rock, the unique rock formation in the middle of the water at Santa Rosa National Park. We were accompanied by Robert’s daughter, Christine, and Mario Avendaño of Epic Surf Trips. Nothing like getting schooled by August, who, upon arrival, donned his rash guard and jumped in the water with a blue and yellow 9-foot What I Ride model board, shaped himself at his own Witch’s Rock Surf Camp workshop in Tamarindo. After showing us the peak he liked — a nice wedging left — August took off, making his now-familiar smooth longboard turns. “I don’t need a leash,” he said. “I never fall.” Christine, on a shortboard her dad also shaped, was no slouch in these waves either. She is a power surfer, making hard, quick turns. Me? I’m a perpetual kook. I slipped down one or two nice lefts, as the Augusts rode circles around me.
Geologically ancient Witch’s Rock is one of Costa Rica’s oldest rock formations, estimated by some to be at least 130 million years old, dating back to the Cretaceous period. It was named for the howling sounds emitted when strong offshore winds hit the leonine-
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shaped rock. According to Avendaño, the Witch’s Rock wave action is generated by a series of weather patterns. Papagayo winds are influenced by storms moving through the mountains from Costa Rica’s north side. These winds originate further north from Lake Nicaragua and blow onto Playa Naranjo, the Santa Rosa National Park beach where Witch’s Rock is located. “As a surfer, it is the best place where the swell and offshore winds meet.” Avendaño explained. “It’s perfect.” Robert agreed with Mario. “It’s a great wave that catches different swells,” he said. “There’s always something there. I mean, there was not a lot when we went, but it was fun. The whole adventure, the rock, everything. There are reefs out there that break up the wave, so there are lefts and rights all the way to the beach.”
Surf spot for all seasons Once a favored location for fishermen, Witch’s Rock was eventually revealed to be just right for surfing. Once the wave hits the rock, it breaks up, then re-forms on the other side. It can be a lucky surf spot on all kinds of swell: north from November to April and south the rest of the year.
Remotely popular Just how did this out-of-the-way surf spot become so popular? After all, to get there you either take an accredited boat, or drive into Santa Rosa National Park, where it’s a 100yard hike to the beach. (Either way there’s a $15 park fee.) While locals knew about the location for years, it was the release of “Endless Summer II” in the 1990s that broke discoveries wide open. Here was Robert August sweeping down the line on these gorgeous waves at a place called Witch’s Rock. It seemed like an open invitation to the world to join him. Soon howlermag.com
surfers — from novice to expert — wanted to go to Witch’s Rock, some just to say they’d been there. “We came down before the movie crew and researched all over,” recalled August. “We said, oh my God — this is incredible!’ Witch’s is such a classic place. When New Line [Cinema] came down and saw it, they said ‘holy cow, this is fantastic.’ So we filmed there.” With Playas del Coco local Avendaño as a knowledgeable guide, our group spent the day on the slopes and getting educated about the spot. “Once you surf that place you always want to go back,” Mario said. “It’s mystical. It’s like a temple of wisdom and good decisions … my temple that transfers bad energy to good energy and gives it to people in the boat.” We felt that good energy all day.
Be prepared So, how do you plan a boat trip to Witch’s Rock? Choose a boat that is properly certified with government papers permitting
access into Santa Rosa National Park, and therefore Witch’s Rock. Check to make sure your boat has documents from MINAE (Ministerio de Ambiente y Energia), ACG (Area de Conservacion Guanacaste) and SINART (Sistema Nacional de Areas de Conservacion). Otherwise, you risk the Coast Guard evicting your boat from Witch’s Rock, and that will certainly ruin your stoke. It is also important that your craft has emergency and safety equipment on board, as well as a first aid kit. On our special surf day, Christine August had the final word, calling it one of the best experiences she’s ever had at Witch’s Rock. “Surfing Witch’s reminds me of how grateful we are as surfers and really natives of this beautiful country,” she concluded. “Being with my dad especially makes me nostalgic for all the other times I’ve gone with him, like when I was about five years old. It’s still fun going with close friends, but nothing like today — surfing an empty lineup with your dad and other friends.”
Robert and Christine August enjoying another special surf outing together for future reminiscing. HM Photos: Mario Avendaño HOWLER MAGAZINE | 27
SURFING COSTA RICA
esTeRillos oesTe anD The enigMaTiC MeRMaiD By Ellen Zoe Golden
The statue looks like it is rising out of the water.
SURF SPOT
T
he seven-kilometer-long beach of Esterillos, about 20 minutes south of Jacó, has become over the years one of Costa Rica’s most fun places to catch waves. In fact, it consists of three separate locations: Esterillos Este, Esterillos Centro, and Esterillos Oeste (east, central and west). The beaches are broken up by the Bejuco River, and each section has its own defining geography of beach and rock bottoms. The most popular of the three areas to surf is Esterillos Oeste. It’s a beach break with an underwater rock shelf several hundred meters off the sand. And, this is the home of one of Costa Rica’s most notable international surfing exports, 25-yearold Carlos Muñoz, who grew up with younger brother Alberto, honing their skills on all three sections. “The waves are very fun in Esterillos Centro,” Muñoz says. “There are rights, lefts and they have a lot of wall. Este is a little bit more open ocean, so it has great waves too.” One of the unique features of Esterillos Oeste is the mermaid sculpture that rests on the north end rocks facing out from the shore towards the horizon. The mermaid is a great takeoff spot for surfers, but has notoriety for much more than just that. When the tide rises, the ocean covers her pedestal and the statue looks like it is rising out of the water. The work, a bronze cast, was created by sculptor Albino Valverde, who is from the Puriscal barrio of San José.
Anthony Seguro, another Esterillos surfer, admits to knowing little more about the legendary sculpture. He offers a variation of the story that originates with the same hotel owner. “Around 1970, this man arrived at Playa Esterillos, and along the coves he saw the silhouette of a woman. He ran to where she appeared and then was lost in the waves.” Being a well-known beach landmark does not necessarily make the mermaid’s resting place an ideal surf spot, Muñoz explains. “You can surf, but the wave is not that good. It’s super fat, and only when there’s big, big swell does it make a few good waves. For me, the mermaid is an indicator. Every time I was surfing I’d always go a little farther out from the side of the mermaid.” There’s no question, Muñoz agrees, that the sculpture is a beautiful attraction for Esterillos. “The people like to go into the few natural pools there when the tide goes low, and they like to fish. And all the people like to go there and take photos with the mermaid.” The surf skills Carlos Muñoz started honing at a young age in Esterillos, where he is pictured above and here, have served him well in competitions around the world. Photos:@diazcarvs
Mermaid’s mystique Ask the locals to tell you about the mermaid statue, and you get a lot of head scratching. But Muñoz is happy to recount what he has heard. “I don’t know exactly how long she has been there, but I heard this story about her. Back in the day, the owner of the hotel La Sirena said he saw a mermaid. So, that’s why he had the mermaid statue built.”
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howlermag.com
Robert August "Surf n' Turf" Charity Challenge Friday & Saturday, March 13 & 14, 2020
The Surf & Turf charity event is a golf and surf contest, with winners for the golf and surf contests. The contest consists of a four-man team golf scramble at Hacienda Pinilla and surf contest in Tamarindo.
• • • •
Registration Tamarindo International Surf Film Festival only $15 per night. Includes: Food and Information drink for sale, feria, short films, feature film, raffles, and entertainment. Golf only $150. Includes: golf cart, golf fee, lunch, and golf goodie bag. Surf only $50 per 4 person team. $15 per person.
Registration prices for the overall contest, Golf and Surf is $250. This includes VIP goodie bag, golf and surf tournaments and entrance to the Film Festival both nights.
Friday, March 13th
Schedule and coffee available upon arrival. Four-man scramble, includes lunch. • 5:00pm Doors open to Film Festival at Multicines, Garden Plaza, sponsor feria of Events •
7:00am Registration @ Hacienda Pinilla. Golf Tournament with light breakfast
and live music on 1st floor.
•
6:00pm Series of short films, with intermission, followed by feature film and raffle.
•
After Party Monkey Bar @ Vista Villas hosting the after party.
Saturday, March 14th •
6:00am (TBD): Team Surf Contest in Tamarindo, Villa Amarilla. Light breakfast available.
•
5:00pm Doors open to Film Festival at Multicines, Garden Plaza, sponsor feria and live music on 1st floor.
•
6:00pm Series of short films, with intermission, followed by feature film, raffle by Cheboard, and awards ceremony.
•
10:00pm Closing party to follow the feature film. All proceeds support
www.cepiacostarica.org
To secure your spot in this year’s Surf & Turf, please send an email to Kristina at cepia.surfandturf@gmail.com or call (00506) 8447-6900. Thank you!
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 29
SURFING COSTA RICA
Dean Bushby
by Ellen Zoe Golden
Persistence Pays Off in Bigger Waves
SURF PROFILE
Y
ears ago, Dean Bushby, a computer network engineer from Leeds, United Kingdom, fell off a motorcycle he was riding in Thailand. Loss of his leg was the consequence. Over the next five years during the healing process, the former rugby enthusiast was unable to do much physical exercise. Simply walking with his new prosthetic was what he had to learn first. A series of coincidences two years ago while visiting Costa Rica brought him to Tamarindo, where he met Eric Atkinson of Salty Sols Surf School. The instructor was taken with Bushby’s positive attitude and suggested he try surfing by laying on a board. “I thought I’d give it a whirl,” Bushby said. “Before then I had not been in the ocean for 15 years. I thought, why not give it a go?” It became clear that the pair could work together to get Bushby up and riding. “He had a lot of fun being in the water,” recalled Atkinson. “And we did try and figure out how he could pop up, but the best he could do was get to his hands and put the back foot down." Bushby has evolved with persistence. Initially, he returned to England and got a prosthetic to use in the water, which he would strap on under his wetsuit shorts. The first few visits to Tamarindo, he popped up on a SUP board because of its floatation. “It was brand new to both of us,” said Atkinson, explaining the process. “On the first day, Dean put his right foot back, but it was tough with the prosthetic in front because the front leg is
the one that does a lot of movement for surfers. So, we switched it up, back leg prosthetic. That actually worked a whole lot better. That’s when he stood up and rode it.” Yet, it was still not optimum: “There was no bend in the prosthetic,” said Atkinson.
Prosthetic breakthrough As a result, upon his next return to England, Bushby discovered Fabrizio Passetti, the French adaptive surfer who had worked with Infinite Technologies Orthotics and Prosthetics (ITOP) to create a prosthetic with mountain bike technology. This really helped Passetti surf the big waves like those in Padang Padang, Bali. Bushby got himself that prosthetic and learned how it worked to control a surfboard. At the same time, he paddled in a pool using a Surfinshape training board and practiced at home on a large balance board. He followed international adaptive surfing for tips to put into play on his next visit to Tamarindo. This time, the Atkinson-Bushby team reversed foot positions again — prosthetic in front. And Dean advanced to a typical 10-foot longboard, started paddling into the waves himself and riding all the way to the shore. “I moved up to catching green waves south of Playa Grande,” he said. “It blew me away. I found confidence this year.” by Ellen Zoe Golden Of his “crazy” achievement, he concluded, “I would never have dreamed of this and it’s absolutely amazing. I’m in better shape, physically and mentally, so the sky’s the limit.”
Photos: Carla Rowlings
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howlermag.com
FACTORY & SURF SHOP Custom + Stock Boards Ding Repair Tamarindo Above: Since encouraging Bushby to try surfing with a prosthetic, Eric Atkinson of Salty Sols Surf School (left) has continued working with him on adaptive refinements, sometimes with Larry Larson (right) helping in the water.
www.cheboards.com +506 8556 2910
Cheboards
Eric holding Dean's board
‘I thought, why not give it a go?’
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 31
SURFING COSTA RICA
Photos courtesy of Cheboards
Ollie’s Outing Like No Other by Juan Diego Evangelista
Calm After the Storm
I
COSTA RICA SURF TREK
n October 2017, a huge storm devastated most of the beaches in Costa Rica. Playas del Coco was totally flooded. Significant beachfront destruction was widespread and the ocean was very brown. This occurred on a Friday, and just two days later, we were among the first to venture out in the aftermath, with Ollie’s Point being our chosen destination. Our preparations began on Saturday afternoon, when my friend, Alan Campos, and I were helping with boat recovery efforts in Tamarindo Bay. Despite how bad everything looked due to storm damage, the ocean had already calmed and the situation was definitely okay for organizing our trip to Ollie’s Point the next day. We wanted to be the first people out there … without realizing we would actually end up being the only people there. In more ways than this one, it would be a day of wonders that never ceased!
Extraordinary from the get-go My preference in planning any boat trip is to try for a nighttime departure, even though sailing at night is dangerous. So we headed out at 3 a.m. from Playa Flamingo on the yellow boat I had called the Sucaforte 2. The pre-dawn start to our trip was crazy beyond anything we could imagine. The ocean was full of plankton. That meant as long as our boat was sailing, we had light all around us from the plankton shining in the water. We all got wet so our skin
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was shiny with plankton too. This made us laugh a lot, but at the same time we were shaking from the cold … it was so freakin’ cold! What we encountered next was no less extraordinary. At sunrise, around 5 a.m. we had already arrived right next to Witch’s Rock. As the sky lightened, we saw that the rock had broken apart and one big piece was falling into the ocean. I had just surfed there two days before and that entire portion of rock was intact. Now, seeing it cracked and crumbling was amazing and almost eerie. We felt somewhat scared and vulnerable sitting in a boat next to it with nobody else there. Not that we needed starker evidence of the storm’s recent savagery, but the beach was littered with logs and the water draped with abandoned fishing nets.
Would there be waves? More surprises awaited. Early into our boat trip, passing by the Pico Pequeño shore, we observed sketchy, somewhat heavy waves. That made us a little nervous, but we kept going. Arriving at Witch’s Rock we didn’t see any waves, which was frustrating. For anyone planning to go surfing not to see any waves, it’s incredibly disappointing. Still, we continued on to Ollie’s Point and eventually saw waves en route that we surfed. They were really nice waves, but only local waves, so we don’t need to call their name. howlermag.com
When we reached Ollie’s Point we saw a huge whale … not just big, but huge! Not only that, but the whale’s baby was jumping right next to us while we were still in the boat. When I say “next to us,” that means only about five meters away. We started getting wet, not to mention a bit nervous. Here we were, the only humans out in the ocean with a huge whale swimming next to us and its child jumping alongside. The junior whale made at least 10 jumps from the time we entered the opening approach to Ollie’s Point and when we reached the bay. Spending time with the whales turned out to be a wonderful highlight in a chain of continuing unexpected occurrences. After continuing to watch them for 30 or 40 minutes while still on the other side of Ollie’s Point, we decided to hike the beach or just walk around. There were no waves to surf … or so we thought at the time. But incredibly, as we started getting closer to the break we realized there were waves. How foolish that we just hadn’t noticed before while being totally distracted by the whales putting on such a terrific show for us.
Breaking left … seriously Of course, upon discovering the waves we forgot about the whales. With nobody else there the entire time, we scored that day at Ollie’s with 6- to 8-foot waves. And for the first time in our lives, we experienced Ollie’s breaking left. It usually breaks right and that’s how Ollie’s is known. When we got back from this trip, nobody believed us when we said Ollie’s was breaking left, so a couple of days later we had to take some friends out there to prove we were telling the truth.
Let me explain why we chose Ollie’s Point that day. Almost everybody checks the internet when planning a surf trip. We don’t do that. We are not ruled by forecasts and magazines. We do, however, plan our trips carefully in terms of knowing what to anticipate. Our method is to watch the ocean and listen to all the people coming into town with predictions about the waves. Still, we cook our own recipe and off we go. In this instance, after the severe storm, we knew how shaken people were throughout Costa Rica. So many fishermen and others working with boats or living near the beach were hard hit. Homes were under water and some boats were lost altogether. We took all of that into consideration for this surf trip. Then, as usual, we created our own adventure and set out to see what was going on. We actually found a boat that day … which leads me to one more incident that made this surfing adventure remarkable to the end. Midday at Ollie’s Point found us already tired from surfing this spot that we had all to ourselves. After all, our day had begun at 3 a.m. so we were ready to head home. Arriving back in Flamingo at 3:30 p.m., we encountered a family struggling to take a boat out of the water. Remember, this was the wrong day for anyone without experience to be near the ocean. But these people were trying to retrieve their boat, only to have it fall apart on the ramp from the water. This was the same ramp we were waiting for to get our boat free. So we helped them recover their boat using all the essential tools available: hydraulic jacks, several big logs and chains. By the time we succeeded it was 7 p.m., so needless to say we didn’t get home until 8:30. We were very tired, but very happy.
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 33
ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT
Semana Santa
A Jubilant Holiday in Latin America
ACE FEATURE
By Sandy Sandoval
Procession of Silence, Holy Thursday in San José Photo: Irene Castillo Sanchez / Shutterstock.com
S
emana Santa — known in English as Holy Week — is a highly anticipated holiday in Costa Rica as it is throughout Latin America. From Antigua in Guatemala and Copacabana in Bolivia, to Ayacucho in Perú, people embrace the celebration of a colorful culture where gastronomy, religion and leisure converge.
A religious tradition
Historically, the Catholic religion has predominated in Latin American countries, with many festive calendar dates inherently associated with this faith. Like Holy Week in other parts of the world, Semana Santa marks the week in March or April, for any given year, beginning on Palm Sunday and ending on Easter Sunday. Indeed, Semana Santa is regarded the most important religious holiday in Latin America, commemorating the decisive moments in the life of Jesus Christ. Processions, masses, festivals, and parades take place during the week to depict Jesus’ return to Jerusalem, his crucifixion and his resurrection. Many processions feature lavish stagings of biblical events, with live actors portraying pivotal characters such as the apostles, the Virgin Mary, Mary Magdalene, Saint Joseph and Roman soldiers … all while singing and carrying incense. Other processions incorporate effigies instead of performers. In some countries, these processions pass through multi-colored sawdust carpets boasting remarkable designs. Costa Rica’s liturgical events during Semana Santa are
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held country-wide. Three of the most famous processions are hosted, respectively, in downtown San José, Tres Rios in Cartago province, and in San Joaquin de Flores in Heredia province.
Downtime
Notwithstanding the religious influences, Semana Santa is also a major vacation period in Latin America. For much of the population, it’s a whole week off from work or school. In Costa Rica, most public offices are closed the entire week, while some public banks and hospitals are open Monday to Wednesday. Thursday and Friday are mandatory public holidays, to the extent that tourism becomes the only commercial activity on these days. Most supermarkets and other retail stores close their doors, as well as business and professional premises. Access to transportation is reduced, and train service is interrupted until Easter Monday. For pretty much all kinds of shopping trips and errands, everyone is well advised to plan ahead and get them done before these holiday closures occur.
Empty cities but crowded coasts: it’s beach time!
Despite living in a latitude that delivers beach weather year-round, Costa Ricans are especially keen to head for their by Jade Rivera favorite coast during SemanaPuma Santa.mask Theremural is no question it’s a indigenous Boruca culture peak vacation season here, asrefl in ects many Latin American countries, howlermag.com
Photo: Irene Castillo Sanchez / Shutterstock.com
where traffic jams at main exit and entrance points are part of an ever-growing tradition. Packed-to-capacity restaurants and hotels are part of this seasonal norm, so be sure to make advance reservations to avoid learning the hard way. The most visited beaches on Costa Rica’s Pacific coast are Jacó, Tamarindo, Puntarenas, Samara, Quepos and Manuel Antonio National Park. The most popular Caribbean beach destinations are Limón, Cahuita National Park and the Puerto Viejo area.
just what they need. No matter what your preference, there’s no better place than Costa Rica for embracing old and new traditions to make this special holiday your own.
Foodie favorites
Culinary indulgence tends to be synonymous with most celebrations of seasonal holidays worldwide, and Semana Santa in Latin America is no exception. Seafood, a favorite menu staple every day of the year, takes on added significance throughout Lent, the period between Ash Wednesday and Easter Sunday. In the tradition of conservative Catholic beliefs, meat should not be consumed on those days preceding and during Holy Week. Not surprisingly, it’s a time when Costa Ricans enjoy ceviche, a raw fish dish made with lime juice, cilantro, onion and garlic. Rice with shrimp, fish soup and tuna dishes are also foodie favorites. If you crave something sweet, chiverre is a must-try. It’s a sweet jelly made from a huge squash with diverse uses as a jam component of desserts, or as the main ingredient in empanadas de chiverre (pasty), a popular Tico holiday treat. When it comes to raising a glass of holiday cheer, feel free for the most part to toast the season. Costa Rica’s national government no longer prohibits the sale of alcohol on Holy Thursday and Good Friday, although municipal governments have the discretion to do so.
Empanadas de chiverre
Make it your own
For many, Semana Santa is a time of reflection and contemplation. For others, it’s a welcome break from routine when the right mix of rest and recreation is
Favorite beaches for holiday crowds include Playa Espadilla, Manual Antonio. Photo: Margus Vilbas / Shutterstock.com
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ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT
Semana Santa Superstitions Share and Dare
FOLKLORE FEATURE
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n Costa Rica, the religious and cultural significance of Semana Santa, or Holy Week, rivals and possibly supersedes that of Navidad, otherwise known as Christmas Week. There is a plethora of well-documented traditions associated with both these occasions. But in this country, Semana Santa also has a remarkable, albeit less renowned, heritage of local mythology and superstitions. For example, Good Friday is to be respected with prayer, especially for the three hours Jesus spent on the cross. All meals for the weekend should be prepared in advance. There also is the belief that no one should go swimming in a river on Good Friday, or you run the risk of turning into a fish. Climbing a tree on that day is also not a good idea, as you might grow a tail if you do.
Another folkloric belief is that when Good Friday ends at midnight, the massive higueron de cabuya, an indigenous fig tree, blooms with its yellow flowers. Satan hides above in a cloud waiting for approaching victims to try picking flowers from that tree. Any crafty person who is quick enough to snatch just one blossom without being caught by the devil will most likely win the next lottery and be rich forever. During the nationwide processions re-enacting the funeral parade of Christ’s burial, single men should remove their St. John’s medallions or they will stay unmarried for life. There are probably some bachelors who intentionally leave these medals dangling on a chain around their necks.
Benevolent thefts
Many rural towns, especially in the province of Guanacaste, continue the tradition of burning a cloth effigy
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By Jim Parisi and Alei Burns
of the biblical traitor Judas at midnight on Good Friday. As this ritual continues into the wee hours, local residents sneak about in the cloak of darkness, removing various articles left on the front porches of neighboring homes. From shoes and umbrellas to garden tools, nothing is safe! The pranksters place these “newly lost” possessions in the community soccer field. To recover their misplaced items, the owners must make a donation to the local Catholic church. According to tradition, the churches then use these funds for less advantaged community members, as well as for the church’s restoration and upkeep.
Single men should remove their St. John’s medallions, or they will stay unmarried for life. Holy Saturday in 1983 fell on April 2. Just before 9 p.m., an earthquake centered just off the Osa Peninsula registered a magnitude of 7.1. It toppled houses and power lines, killed one person and left more than 500 others homeless. Named “El Terremoto del Sabado Santo” (Holy Saturday Earthquake), this legendary natural disaster has been broadly regarded by Ticos as a message from God about the perils of sinful ways.
Higueron de Cabuya tree Photo: Jacques Paysan Superstitions of such a folkloric nature are generally passed on verbally from generation to generation. They can be a barometer for the personality of a society, which in the case of Semana Santa traditions, Costa Ricans are proud to share howlermag.com
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ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT
Finca 6 and The Mystery of the Spheres
Story and photos by Tom Schultz
CULTURAL HERITAGE
C No one knows their purpose.
osta Rica is home to only two protected pre-Colombian archaeological sites, including the larger and better known National Monument of Guayabo. But the less familiar Finca 6 holds greater interest as a subject of study due to its major feature, the mysterious Diquís stone spheres. Although spheres exist at four different sites in Costa Rica, Finca 6 is the only one open to the public. Located in the flat alluvial plain and wetland of the upper Osa Peninsula, near Sierpe, the land area is characterized by heavy sedimentation. Fortunately, this enabled the spheres and other structures to be very well preserved below a 1.5-metersthick layer before they were unearthed, usually by farmers clearing or digging a field. As one of the few places where spheres were discovered “in-situ” (undisturbed), Finca 6 was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2014.
Why did they exist?
The most fascinating fact about the Diquis spheres: no one knows their purpose. There are many theories but little proof.
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Some believe they denoted rank or kingship, others think they were merely status symbols or perhaps tribe symbols. Astronomical importance has been suggested by a set of spheres discovered at Finca 6 that align themselves with the sun in mid-April and mid-August. This alignment on what is called the subsolar point — the sun is 90 degrees directly overhead — occurs only in tropical latitudes and is most noticeable for the total lack of shadows. But for all these and other theories, mystery still surrounds the spheres. What is known for certain is that they are old — about 2,000 years old. Their surface is polished and their shape is perfectly spherical, ranging in size from that of a bowling ball to two meters or more in diameter. The spheres are comprised of volcanic basalt, Andesite or sandstone, none of which is found at the Finca 6 site, but much further into the mountainous Dota region. This is where scientists believe the spheres were quarried before being either carried, or floated down streams, to the settlements below. howlermag.com
Visiting Finca 6
Finca 6 is a National Museum-run site located at Finca 6 de Palmar Norte in the Osa Peninsula. Take route 34 eastbound or route 2 westbound to Palmar Norte, then cross the big bridge heading south. Turn right onto route 223 towards Sierpe. Drive seven kilometers before turning left onto a dirt road (marked by a sign), just before a blue bridge. Continue until you reach the museum parking lot. Public bus transportation from San José is available via TRACOPA (Sierpe destination). Phone 506 2221-4214 or visit tracopacr.com Learn more in the online article at howlermag.com
The Spheres and The Simpsons
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osta Rica’s legendary Diquis spheres have a new claim to fame after being featured in episode no. 669 of Fox TV’s The Simpsons. Aired on Sunday, November 17, 2019, “Livin’ La Pura Vida” took the yellow cartoon family on the kind of Costa Rican adventure only the show’s creators could dream up. Over the years, the relocation of many uncovered spheres in Costa Rica has made them anything but a wellkept secret. Photo courtesy of: Pack-Shot / Shutterstock.com They can be found in front of government buildings and even hotels, while the black market for spheres has also given rise to modern notoriety.
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ARTS CULTURE ENTERTAINMENT
CIGARETTE BOAT SLAMS ONSHORE
SURVIVING CR
Shades of “Miami Vice” Tamarindo Style
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B
ack in the early ‘90s my buddy and I were relaxing at a villa between Tamarindo and Langosta, having a couple of cold ones. From over the hill separating Langosta and Tamarindo, a helicopter emerged into view. In the same instant, from around the bend a cigarette boat roared fullspeed towards the beach just 100 yards south of us. As it approached, dozens and dozens of white bricks suddenly started being tossed overboard. Soon the surrounding waters had hundreds of them bobbing in the waves. Like something you’d see in a reality TV remake of the ‘80s hit “Miami Vice,” the speed boat slammed onto the beach and three guys bailed out and headed for the road. This boat driver clearly knew exactly where to beach his transport vehicle: right in front of the public access corridor running alongside our villa. He
and his passengers ran to the road where a car was obviously waiting. A screech of tires followed, with the chopper overhead following. My buddy and I just sat there taking in the next act of theater in front of us. Soon, dozens of locals appeared running down the beach toward the boat and its white treasures. The hell with their job, for those who were at work. Soon, it looked like the start of a marathon swim race, except these guys dove in fully clothed. Each one would grab a brick or two, then disappear back among the places lining the beach Not being into that sort of activity, I had no idea what a brick of pure Colombian cocaine weighs or was valued at. But there was no question that to those locals working as waiters, cooks or in other lowpaying jobs, one brick probably added up to a year's worth of income or more. howlermag.com
by
Photo courtesy of:Debra Bernal / Shutterstock.com In those days, Tamarindo didn't have any police, but if it did, the officers might have joined in the treasure hunt too. One thing was for sure — lots of pissed-off hotel, bar and restaurant owners were going to find themselves short-handed for help that night. The nice maintenance man/guard who worked at our villa had a large smile on his face. He might still work there, but I'm sure he upgraded his vehicle, moved to a better house in his rural village and bought his wife and kids some nice things. We went to dinner in town that night. Word was out that we’d had front row seats for the day's big event. Upon presenting our dinner bill, the waiter inquired with a smug grin, “Will you be paying in cocaine or colones tonight?” I asked about the “bad guys.” They got away, of course! The cigarette boat? Gone by the time we got back from dinner. Hanging around long enough in those days, we never knew what high drama the waves might wash up on the beach at Tamarindo.
y Tom Knight
Photo courtesy of:A.PAES / Shutterstock.com
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PURA VIDA / LIVING CR
Dr. Abraham Gómez consulting with a patient about her oculoplastic surgery procedure. Photo courtesy of Arte Facial
OCULOPLASTIC SURGERY
by Diana Groza
An Important Medical Subspecialty
WELLNESS FEATURE
O
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culoplastic surgery is a medical specialty within the branch of eye surgery. This means that oculoplastic surgeons are first and foremost eye specialists. After more than two years of subspecialty training, these experts dedicate themselves to operations of the structures around the eye, including the eyelids, tear-duct system, and orbit or eye socket. Oculoplastic surgeons are trained to perform intraocular surgery, that is, surgery of the eye itself, and surgery of the anatomical tissues around it. Procedures may be aesthetic, meaning they are intended to improve facial appearance, or reconstructive, to cure diseases such as skin cancer or lacrimal obstructions. As an oculofacial plastic surgeon, Dr. Abraham Gómez of Arte Facial Costa Rica performs esthetic and reconstructive procedures on the area around the eyes, midface, and lower face, including eyelids, brows, cheeks, and chin. He also offers facial rejuvenation procedures, especially those focused on the eyelids. Some of these procedures include eyelid lift, wrinkle correction, the removal of bags from under the eyes, and comprehensive facial rejuvenation. Dr. Gómez knows that any operation around the eyes can put eye health at risk. Therefore, of foremost importance in his approach for all procedures is the integrity and health of the eye. "It is imperative not to lose sight of the health of the eye when performing any cosmetic or reconstructive surgery on the face," he explains. "That is why a specialty was created where the surgeon first specializes in the eye, and then in plastic surgery of the area surrounding it," he adds, referring to his interest in choosing this branch of his profession. Dr. Gómez is passionate about offering his patients highstandard, quality esthetic services using the latest technology
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in plastic surgery. Some of his most popular invasive and noninvasive cosmetic procedures include: • • • •
Plasmage — the new, non-invasive way to treat saggy eyelid skin Blepharoplasty — upper and lower eyelid lift Botox and dermal fillers application — utilizing the highest quality, original products from Allergan and Merz Lower eyelid bags removal — rejuvenating the face by eliminating unwanted bags and excess skin
Dr. Gómez also specializes in reconstructive procedures that improve his patients' quality of life. The removal of styes, tumors, and cancers affecting the eye and eyelids are some of the most frequent non-cosmetic operations performed in his office. In addition to reconstructing anatomical structures after the removal of malignant tissue, Dr. Gomez also treats eyelid trauma, performs scar revisions and eliminates lacrimal gland obstructions. We have mentioned only a few of the procedures performed by oculoplastic surgeons. Their repertoire includes dozens of procedures on the surface of the eye and many more around it. In addition to surgical procedures, oculoplastic surgeons also offer non-invasive alternatives utilizing plasma and highfrequency ultrasound technology. There is no medical specialty like oculoplastic surgery!
Contact:
www.artefacial.com Tel: (506) 2522 -1000 Email: agomez@artefacial.com Whatsapp: (506) 7032 - 5570 Clinica Biblica, San José Costa Rica howlermag.com
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THE BENEFITS OF STEM CELL THERAPY Stem cells have the ability to grow, repair and regenerate any type of human cell or tissue. Stem cell therapy is a medical procedure that uses stem cells to repair damaged tissue from certain diseases or physical injuries. Stem cell therapy can offer relief to patients suffering from chronic pain, difficult-to-heal injuries, and certain chronic conditions.
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PURA VIDA / LIVING CR
Walking
by Dr. Herbert Weinman
F
The Anti-Aging Medicine
DOCTOR IS IN
or many excellent reasons, walking is one of the most common favorite exercises. It is the easiest and least expensive form of exercise and requires no special skills or equipment. It can be done nearly anytime, anywhere. People of almost any age in almost any condition can walk safely without the risk of jarring and injuring their ankles, hips or spine. Regular moderate exercise such as walking may increase your quantity as well as quality of life. Those who exercise only three to five hours a week live one to three years longer on average than those who don’t. Walking is one of those activities that is so important in forestalling the effects of old age it could be called the “anti-aging” medicine.
Using leg power instead of gas power may add healthy years to your lifespan.
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Fit for a longer life In addition to having cardiovascular benefits, our “most natural” physical activity scores high in other fitness categories, including weight control. Regular exercise not only burns off calories but raises the body’s metabolic rate, resulting in more calories being burned faster. Research and clinical experience have proven the positive impact of moderate exercise, particularly walking, following surgery for heart attacks and in managing adult onset diabetes. Regular walking is also beneficial in preventing frequent migraine attacks as well as treating many so-called “aging” consequences. Loss of muscle strength, elevated blood pressure and depression symptoms are just a few examples. Doctors frequently advise a regular walking program as part of the treatment for back, neck and joint problems. Walking has also proven effective in relieving psychological problems, such as the type-A behavior
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patterns of people who are overly rushed, aggressive and competitive. Reduced weight, blood pressure and blood fats may occur as well. In addition to planned exercise walks lasting 20 to 45 minutes, at least three times a week, look for other opportunities to stretch your legs. Climb stairs instead of using the elevator. Walk to the store and to places in the community where driving is not the only option. It may take a little longer to get there, but using leg power instead of gas power may add healthy years to your lifespan.
Dos and don’ts Get ready for your walks by wearing properly fitted walking shoes and comfortable, loose-fitting clothing. Dress in layers to keep warm or cool depending on the weather. Brisk walking generates body heat, so layered clothing enables you to adjust as needed. Don’t exercise vigorously after a large meal or if injured, ill or have been drinking alcohol. Take care to avoid overexertion when it’s hot and humid, or very cold and windy. Like any new activity, your walking program should be staged in moderately, especially when exercise has not been a part of your normal routine. Start at a comfortable pace of a mile in 30 minutes (two miles an hour). After a week or two, increase your distance to 1.5 miles and pick up the pace to three miles an hour. Use these rules of thumb to avoid overdoing it. During an exercise walk you should: • be able to carry on a conversation with another person • experience no pain • not feel excessively fatigued howlermag.com
EAT • SLEEP • SURF • STRETCH
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PASSION WITH A PURPOSE He lp Ba rba ra He lp He r A ni m a ls
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some people can treat animals or not care for their pets. It’s rewarding work and I wouldn’t want to be doing anything else.” Help support Barbara’s Rescue Center at the 7th annual Dog Day Afternoon fundraiser on Sunday, March 22, 2020 at Camaron Dorado in Brasilito. Starting at 4 p.m., the festivities include live music, a live art painting, live and silent auctions and a 50/50 draw. You are sure to have a great time, and even the opportunity to add a new member to your family! Also be assured that 100% of the proceeds from this fun event go towards helping care for animals however they need it most.
‘It’s rewarding work and I wouldn’t want to be doing anything else.’
ANIMAL LIFE
wenty-five years ago, Barbara Deppe came to Costa Rica from Germany with a passion for animals and the purpose of starting an animal rescue center. She set out to help the many homeless, sick and forgotten animals in her area and give them a second chance at life. Over the years she has helped thousands of street animals and mistreated pets through spay and neuter clinics, responding to urgent rescue calls and rehabilitating abandoned wildlife. Since Barbara’s rescue center never releases animals back into the street, she is always looking for loving homes where animals can be adopted. She also personally looks after the sick, old and unadoptable animals in her Flamingo facility, ensuring they receive food, care and most importantly, the love they deserve. “I am so appreciative of all the support the community gives me,” Deppe says. “I couldn’t help as many animals as I do if it weren’t for volunteers and donations. I’ll never understand how
by Debra Goode
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LET'S MAKE MURALS HAPPEN IN COSTA RICA
SUPPORT PUBLIC ART IN COSTA RICA BY DONATING OR SPONSORING OUR NEXT PROJECT. Visit our website: www.costaricaenlapared.com
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 47
TRAVEL PURA VIDA&/ ADVENTURE LIVING CR
Photos courtesy of Refuge for Wildlife/International Animal Rescue
Owen’s Recovery Miracle
M ANIMAL LIFE
ore than 70% of the howler monkeys rescued at Refuge for Wildlife are injured due to unsafe power distribution equipment. It is a very sad fact that most cannot survive the gruesome wounds caused by electrocution. Almost half are found dead at the scene or, following a comprehensive veterinary assessment, are euthanized due to the severity of their injuries. Of the monkeys brought to the clinic, approximately two-thirds succumb to their terrible injuries. Owen is one of the monkeys in our care who defied the odds. His injuries were severe and needed extensive veterinary care. He required several amputations to save his life. His left leg was damaged beyond repair and septicemia due to necrotic tissue was a big concern. Several severely damaged fingers on both hands were also amputated. Owen had a large gaping wound that was several centimeters wide and deep on his right hip, where the electrical current had exited his body. He had electrical burns on his face, stomach and tail that were also very bad. With the added high risk of septic shock, severe dehydration or kidney failure, he required intensive care and exceptional dedication from the veterinary staff involved. After months of treatment and several critical moments where we thought we might lose him, Owen had fully recovered! He slowly learned to climb again without the use of his left leg; although he was a little wobbly at first, it didn’t take him long to get the hang of it. Once Owen was out of the clinic, he really
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By Laura Wilkinson
started to shine. He ended up being the fastest and most active infant in the nursery and spent entire days chasing the other orphans and wrestling. It’s now been two years since the devastating accident that almost claimed Owen’s life. He and the other monkeys in his age group are next in line to be released. Owen has met every milestone and moved through our five-step program, learning essential life skills required to survive in the forest. But he still has to pass the most difficult assessment yet — our veterinary team must ensure that he is fit and able to survive in the wild. Not all monkeys in our rehabilitation program are able to be released, but it is our greatest hope that Owen will be one of them.
Visit our website for details about options for charitable financial support. You can also learn about our Stop the Shocks program, book an educational visit or volunteer to help us out. Contact us at www.refugeforwildlife.org
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PURA VIDA / LIVING CR
As Within, So Without by Laura Méndez
C
MINDFULNESS
arl Jung once said that until you make the unconscious conscious, it will direct your life and you will call it fate. As human beings we are constantly evolving and changing the way we see things. Our health is no different. Current neuroscientific theory tells us that our brain is organized to reflect everything we believe and know, consciously, and of course, unconsciously. Now we know that all the knowledge and experiences we have been exposed to throughout our lives, and what we have inherited, are stored in our brain’s synaptic connections. That means our beliefs, in the form of knowledge and experiences, create our reality. These concepts are labelled in terms of modern medicine. However they are as old as humanity itself. They have been expressed and passed on since ancient civilizations. Let´s make a connection here: everything you learned about health and disease during infancy and early childhood is stored in your subconscious mind. You are creating and manifesting your health and disease, in large part, due to those beliefs. Why is this especially true for the period from birth to age 7? Because we experience those earliest years of life in a theta
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brainwave state. This is essentially like a hypnotic state of absorbing all that we see and hear like a sponge. With the conscious mind not fully developed as a filter, all these implanted beliefs will determine our reality. The concept of health being more than just about eating or workout habits is becoming more commonly accepted. A more complete and holistic approach involves recognizing our beliefs and actions, especially those that are limiting. These beliefs determine our choices about food, exercise and how we manage our emotions. They influence our decisions to either cover up and avoid dealing with unresolved issues or dig deep within ourselves to expose and release what no longer serves us. A familiar and widely embraced universal law is this: nothing outside of us exists that does not exist FIRST within ourselves. Notably, the following quote is attributed to Hermes Trismegistus, whose teachings are a basis for ancient Greek-Egyptian religious and philosophical traditions: “As above, so below, as within, so without, as the universe, so the soul…” Many claim to have gained a sense of immense personal power and responsibility (as opposed to blame) by acknowledging these concepts and universal laws. So why is it that so many others keep denying that emotions are a significant contributor to disease and health imbalances? Have they not considered, or perhaps do not agree, that covering up uncomfortable or unresolved memories can prolong the path to self healing? Are you up to confronting these mental obstacles towards regaining your health and making better lifestyle choices? Then start by going within to heal, forgive and release. Let go of the root causes of disease. I encourage you to visit and share on my Facebook page @LauHHC. Tell us what you were told and internalized as a child about health and disease.
hello@coachlau.com
@LauHHC
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FASHION FLASH
PURA VIDA / LIVING CR
Photos: Samba to the Sea
Family Photo Tips by Patricia Sterman
I Dress your kids as if they were going on a playdate.
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t’s a fact that family photos are a must! Whether the backdrop is a beautiful Guanacaste sunset or somewhere else in your area, you can likely find many talented photographers who are famous for capturing distinctive family memories. Almost every week, both kids and adults show up at my stores together, looking to create just the right fashion style for their family photos. The first advice that I offer is to have a color palette in mind. Depending on the color of your skin or hair, you should pick different tones, from brighter colors to neutrals, including blues, greens or grays. My second piece of advice is to avoid striking prints that catch too much attention in the photo and detract from what should be the main character focus — your family. Avoid logos and large graphic elements as well. Try to coordinate everyone’s outfits but do not go overboard with matching. Make sure each person’s own special style comes across. Matching outfits completely will also make your photos look too bland. That does not rule out the idea of having a theme, however. Sometimes it is fun to create a thematic photoshoot, for example incorporating a rainbow motif, stripes, or animal print. Wear fitted clothes that do not invade another person’s frame in the picture. Wear layers so you have some optional looks. Removing or adding layers allows you to effortlessly create different outfits in each photo. Dress your kids as if they were going on a playdate. They will feel relaxed and cozy during the
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photo shoot, and it will pay off in the resulting pictures. Bring some accessories to play with during the photo shoot, such as hats, sunglasses, jewelry and bags. Everybody should show up feeling confident and comfortable. Remember, it is a family photo. No need to make it perfect; just create a memory.
Patricia would love to hear from you with questions and feeback. @azulprofundoboutique tag @howlermagazine
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TAKE TO THE SKIES COSTA RICA AIRWAYS
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CO N T E N T S CR BIZ
Costa Rica in Flight Cover Story
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18
Making an Impact in Jaco Community Feature
Costa Rica's National Shot: Chiliguaro Dining Guide Feature
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6 - Cover Story: Costa Rica Airways 10 - Architectural Spotlight: W Residences at Reserva Conchal 12 - Property Spotlight: Reserva Camaronal 14 - Doing Business Right: Growth and Spread of Rising Cities 16 - CR Biz Feature: Harvesting Growth from Farming Roots 18 - Community Feature: Jacó Impact Making a Difference 20 - Entrepreneur CR: Harmonize Your Goals 22 - Real Estate 101: Being a Respectful Renter 26 - LegalEase: Important Update for Inactive Corporations
29 Dining Guide
30 - Reserva Conchal - Zona Azul 30 - Reserva Conchal - Cocina de Mercado 30 - Reserva Conchal - Latitude 10° North 31 - Featured Drink - Chiliguaro 31 - Jacó - Trident Poseidon 32 - Playa Grande - Pots & Bowls 32 - Playa Grande - Rip Jack Inn 33 - Huacas - New York Pizzeria 33 - Huacas - La Playita 34 - Tamarindo / Langosta - El Barco del Capitán 34 - Tamarindo - Nordico Coffee House 35 - Flamingo - 5 o’Clock Somewhere Bar 35 - Flamingo - Banana Wind Cafe 35 - Flamingo - Capriccios Pizza Bistro & Cafe 36 - Surfside / Potrero - Fat Daddys 36 - Surfside / Potrero - The Beach House 37 - Las Catalinas - Sentido Norte 38 - Restaurant Directory 40 - Dining Guide Map 41 - Dining Guide Highlights
Reserva Camaronal 12
W Residences 10
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COVER STORY
Co-piloting this recent flight departure from Liberia was Kyle Berger, a Costa Rican native now working with Air Canada in Toronto. Photo: Luis Felipe Murillo Castillo
Soon-to-be-expanded local airport of Quepos Photo: Watch The World / Shutterstock.com
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Liberia's Daniel Oduber Quiros International Airport in Guanacaste, Costa Rica's second largest airport. Photo: EQRoy / Shutterstock.com howlermag.com
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.. Skybound Flying Costa Rica’s Airways by Jim Parisi & Alei Burns
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ptions for air travel to, from and around Costa Rica may be more varied than many visitors and newcomers realize. This relatively small, but popular tourist and relocation destination is home to four international airports, plus 14 smaller airstrips available for domestic flights only. Located 20 kilometers west of downtown San José, Juan Santamaria International Airport was named for the national hero who died fighting the notorious American filibuster William Walker. It has been the primary Costa Rican airport facility since construction was completed in 1958. In 2016, the airport serviced 4.6 million passengers, averaging nearly 1,300 customers daily.
Slow to grow
Daniel Oduber Quirós International Airport, named for the Costa Rican president who served from 1974 until 1978, is commonly referred to as “Liberia International”. Eleven kilometers southwest of Liberia, this airport hosts travelers visiting the western region of the country, including the Pacific coastline. Originally named Llano Grande, Liberia’s airport changed its name when it became certified for international travel in 1995. Public response was hesitant initially and growth was slow. In 2006, a project expanding the tarmac and terminals was completed and the floodgates opened. In 2016, the airport hosted 1.2 million passengers, about 2,500 per week. Tobias Bolaños Airport in Pavas was named for Costa Rica’s first licensed pilot, who paved the way for aviation in the country. Primarily used now for chartered flights and international freight excursions, it has declined in popularity to 32,000 travelers in 2017, less than one-quarter of the traffic it
experienced just eight years earlier. Limón International Airport reopened in 2006 after being out of operation for nearly 20 years. A certified international airport, it currently services only the Caribbean coast of Costa Rica, with four weekly flights to San José.
Roadways alternative
Most of Costa Rica’s domestic airstrips were constructed before the turn of the century as a solution to problematic road conditions at the time. Completed prior to the significant influx of tourism and construction to accommodate new residents, these small airstrips probably helped preserve the country’s biggest asset: its natural beauty. Puerto Jiménez Airport is the busiest domesticonly airport facility, servicing Golfo Dulce, Drake Bay and Corcovado National Park. In 2014, the most recent year for reported data, the airport was used by 36,000 passengers. La Managua Airport de Quepos is the second most popular domestic airstrip (34,000 passengers last year), with Quepos and Manuel Antonio the primary destinations for its customers. The asphalt airstrip is just three kilometers inland from the Pacific Ocean, providing memorable landings and takeoffs. The Ministry of Public Works and Transportation recently began an overhaul of the increasingly popular Quepos airport. The three-month project will add parking for light aircraft, detailed security fencing and an improved stormwater drainage system. These improvements, at a cost of about $2,500,000, will comply with the new safety and security requirements established by the International Civil Aviation Organization.
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Small airstrip in Tambor, Puntarenas. Photo: Susan M Jackson / Shutterstock.com
Tourist favorites
COVER STORY
The Playa Tamarindo airstrip, the third most frequented domestic airport, is a private enterprise 43 kilometers southwest of Liberia, with flights daily to that city and to the capital. A vacation/surfing destination, 27,000 people used the Tamarindo facility in 2017, the most recently published statistic. Despite fluctuating numbers in recent years at all other domestic airstrips, Tamarindo’s customer usage has risen consistently over the past 18 years. La Fortuna Arenal is another private airstrip, named after the Arenal Volcano which, until recently, was the most visited site in Costa Rica. The airport has daily flights to Quepos, Liberia, Tortuguera and San José. Nearly 13,000 passengers used this busy airport in 2017, a 60% increase from the previous year. Nosara is home to a government-owned asphalt airstrip servicing the southern Guanacaste region. The strip is just three kilometers inland from the Pacific Ocean. With daily flights to and from San José, it accommodated nearly 7,000 passengers in 2014. Eight kilometers north of the Panama border, San Vito de Java Airport (aka Coto 47) services the community among the oil palm plantations. Its asphalt strip, open to the public, offers two Sansa flights a day. Los Chiles Airport in Alajuela is just three kilometers south of the Nicaragua border and 100 kilometers northeast of Liberia. A new asphalt airstrip here offers new, easy access into the country’s capital. A smattering of other airstrips throughout Costa Rica includes sites in Tambor, Islita, Palmar Sur, Puerto Viejo and Neily. The conditions range from new tarmac
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Aerial view of Juan Santamaría International Airport in Alajuela near San José howlermag.com
These small airstrips probably helped preserve the country’s biggest asset: its natural beauty. Airplane landing in the Caribbbean port city of Limón, with cruise ship in the background Photo: Cris Young / Shutterstock.com
to literally grassy strips with no amenities. Tortuguero, for example, has little more than a grass strip and a shed full of fuel tanks, but it services 12,000 customers a year. Carrillo Airport is located five kilometers west of Playa Samara in southern Guanacaste. Its grass airstrip begins at the Pacific shoreline, sloping eastward, with a 200-foot roughhewn “spillway” at the end for extended landings. There is a covered shelter with a scale, occasionally used to weigh luggage before boarding. There are no nearby amenities. Public buses run in and out of Carrillo airport twice a day, except on weekends, when there is no service. A drop-off point for the surfing meccas Malpais and Santa Teresa, it gives us a romantic glimpse at what domestic air travel was like throughout this country not so very long ago.
Where are they?
International Domestic
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W Residences at Reserva Conchal Set a New Bar for Luxury Living by Karl Kahler
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ARCHITECTURAL SPOTLIGHT
eserva Conchal was already in a class of its own for luxury housing in Costa Rica, but it’s about to blow up the template. In 2018, the resort supplemented its all-inclusive Westin by building a spectacular new W Hotel. Now it’s adding a new community of W-branded “tree homes” designed by Costa Rica’s most illustrious architect, Ronald Zurcher, in a style matching the imaginative and whimsical design of the W. In a telephone interview, Zurcher said these 14 residences are called tree homes because they’ll be elevated from the ground, as if floating in the air. “Most of the house is on stilts,” he said. “In some areas it will touch the ground, but from outside you would see that everything is elevated. The stilts supporting the main structure are recessed, not at the edge, so part of the structure is ‘flying,’ hovering above the ground, and also the roof extends a long way to protect from the sun and rain.” The homes will all feature a cantilevered design — with spaces like terraces that jut out into the air even more. And like the W, they will have curved roofs connected directly to walls, an innovation that Zurcher said is inspired by the fact that animals don’t have “roofs” — they’re made of the same continuous material on top and on the sides. The 14 lots now being offered for sale range in price from $500,000 to $800,000, with the premier lots offering spectacular 360-degree views of the ocean, the mountains and the picturesque resort below. Buyers can choose between 2-, 3- and 4-bedroom home designs for between $1.5 million and $3 million. All homes will have a pool, gardens and covered parking. For bathrooms, Zurcher said he wanted to create an outdoor feel that also provides privacy, so they will have mesh screens with different textures to create the feeling that you’re looking through branches and leaves in the rainforest. The entire home, in fact, is designed to provide privacy in the rear, he said. “But in front it’s completely transparent to enjoy the view and the breeze.” Owners of W residences will be treated just like hotel
Artist's rendering of the W Residences.
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Aerial view of the W Hotel. The curvy road at lower right is where the W Residences will be built. Images courtesy of Reserva Conchal
guests, and they’ll have full access to all the amenities of the W — restaurants, bars, pools, beach club, spa, gym and even housekeeping and room service. And the W is a gorgeous hotel, with a fun and funky design featuring elements modeled on traditional symbols of Costa Rica, including bullrings, oxcarts, guanacaste trees, pineapples and marimbas. W is an iconic brand owned by Marriott with more than 50 hotels in 25 countries, as well as 15 collections of W Residences, from Bali to Boston. W prides itself on its witty, irreverent style and bold, unconventional look. The W concept stresses the historical, physical and social attributes of each of its destinations, honoring local traditions but adding its own perspective. And it’s an intensely social company, focused on how people eat, drink, play, dance and interact. Now this offbeat brand will have one more feather in its cap — houses that appear to be hovering in mid-air. Reserva Conchal had no shortage of stunning homes before, but the W Residences will be its finest development ever. howlermag.com
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View of Reserva Camaronal, the mouth of the Río Ora and beyond. Photo: Dennis Moore
Camaronal: ‘My Hopes and Dreams on Steroids’ by Karl Kahler
I PROPERTY SPOTLIGHT
stepped onto the vertigo-inducing third-story glass balcony of an 8,000-square-foot mansion on a mountainside in Camaronal, and I felt like Jack on top of the beanstalk. It’s quite a climb to get up here, but the rewards are magical. I took in a panoramic view of a cobalt-blue bay, with a peninsula to the left that looked like a crouching dragon, the setting sun to the right, and a huge expanse of broccoli-green trees on the slopes below. The owner, Jordan Heilweil, is a 62-year-old electronic security expert from New York who recently built his house at La Reserva Camaronal, a 100-acre gated community 30 minutes east of Sámara that I would call the most unspoiled property I’ve ever seen for sale in Costa Rica. “I told them I wanted something that was different and unique and made sort of a statement,” Jordan said, recounting his conversations with the father-and-son architect and engineer, Hugo and Oscar Vargas. The dream home he built, Casa de Los Sueños, has a master bedroom, a room for the two kids and four guestrooms with their own bathrooms. It has a dramatic, transparent spiral staircase in the middle of the house, and the infinity pool in front is an ideal space for entertaining. “Amazingly, I had the house built in pretty much 24 months,” he said. “I came down every six weeks. I didn’t have one argument with the builder. It was a very good experience. I have no complaints, no regrets. I think it would have been tougher to build in New Jersey." One of the owners of La Reserva Camaronal said he
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showed some lots to a client who called this property “my hopes and dreams on steroids.”
The backstor y
I was visiting my brother Paul Collar, who is the administrator at La Reserva Camaronal, to renew my acquaintance with what I consider Costa Rica’s best-kept real estate secret. Paul took me on a tour of the property, explaining that Reserva Camaronal is inscribed under “horizontal condominium” law as a full-service gated residential subdivision, with access, power and water in place for most of the lots. There are actually three horizontal condos here — Montaña, which is active with 75% of the lots served with utilities, and Playa Norte and Playa Sur, which are constituted horizontal condos but lack utilities and are for sale as projects. (But do not make the mistake of picturing “condominiums” that all look alike — these are individual homesites where you can build any kind of house you want, within certain limits.) Montaña is the best place to buy an individual homesite, as the steep hillside ensures an ocean view for virtually all of them. There are about 45 lots for sale here, priced from around $80,000 to over $200,000. Right across the public gravel road from Montaña are the beachside Playa Norte and Playa Sur, which the owners want to sell as a whole rather than piecemeal. Playa Norte has 12 titled lots on 3.2 hectares, with water and power, priced at $725,000. Playa Sur has 25 titled lots priced at $1.5 million. There howlermag.com
The “Glass House” is one of just a few structures on the entire property. Photo: Nicholas Bonin
is also a 1.8-hectare titled corner lot with its own well that is outside of the condo and ideal for a commercial project — a hotel, restaurants, convenience store, surf shop, you name it — priced at $750,000. It’s a short walk from here to the popular surfing beach at Playa Camaronal, where there is also a wildlife refuge that rescues turtle eggs and releases the hatchlings.
well-vented space between the ceiling and the roof, and long overhangs to keep the sun off the house. “My buildings will create their own draft,” he said, “because I have this air space I just described, so any heat is going up and getting out.”
The nature
The on-site caretaker, a man from Hojancha named Marcos Castillo Acosta, said he has seen white-tailed deer, peccary, coatis, white-faced monkeys and howler monkeys on this property. I myself have seen scarlet macaws, green parrots, white-throated magpie jays and beautiful hawks called caracaras. The dominant feature of Reserva Camaronal is its isolation — there are multiple places where you can gaze in any direction and see no sign of human habitation. That’s why I’ve dubbed Camaronal “the land that time forgot.” And yet it’s within 30 minutes of the hopping beach town of Sámara, and within 15 minutes of the spectacular Playa Carrillo.
Daryl and his 29-year-old son Nick, both of whom surf Playa Camaronal often, said what’s unusual about the surf here is that it breaks both right and left, and it breaks on both low and high tides. “I would consider it a pretty forgiving break, although it’s definitely more of an advanced surfing break,” Nick said. “It is a majority local crowd out there, but they’re friendly, and the wave and break itself has multiple peaks. And if there is a swell, it’s very consistent, and so it’s easy to be able to hold the crowd, with plenty of waves for everyone.” Nick suggested that it’s not a good wave for beginning surfers, but when I asked if you can do a face-plant and break out all your teeth, he said, “I mean, you can do that walking to the bathroom.”
The builder
Final word
My brother’s roommate and business partner, Daryl Bonin, plans to build a spec home on one of the lots here. He described his pet peeve about Costa Rican construction: concrete homes with vaulted ceilings that have no way to vent hot air. “If we opened that [ceiling] up and put in a little cupola, there would be continuous venting, so the hot air would go out and you’d create a current, and encourage air to come in here.” Daryl intends to build a house not with concrete but with lightweight, strong galvanized steel, with insulated walls, a
The sur fer
Back to Jordan Heilweil, who looks out on all this beauty from the uppermost home at Camaronal. “I think it’s breathtaking — you have the whole Blue Zone, it’s healthy, it’s stress-free, it’s extremely relaxing,” he said. “This is definitely a slice of heaven — it doesn’t get much better than this.” I asked if he had any advice for people considering buying here. He said, “Do it.” Playa Sámara is a popular beach town 30 minutes from Camaronal. Photo: Dennis Moore
A view from the heights of Camaronal’s splendid isolation. Photo: Rick Brown
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The Free Zone Regime has been a dynamic force behind Costa Rica’s important steps forward to increase investment outside the metro area. Photos courtesy of CINDE
Rising Cities Savoring Benefits of the Free Zone Regime by Eric Scharf
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DOING BUISNESS RIGHT
ears ago, when free zone companies in Costa Rica were talked about, San José, Heredia and Alajuela would automatically come to mind. But times have changed and economic progress beyond that socalled Greater Metro Area (GMA) has made free zones a relevant conversation topic throughout the whole country. "When it rains, you get wet," is an apt metaphor to explain how the Free Zone Regime (FZR) has been extending the concept of rising cities outside the GMA in recent years. This expansion has not been easy and there is much more to do. We are aware that the conditions for FZR development are not always ideal, while it is essential to increase their competitiveness. However, this target has underpinned improvements to the infrastructure, technology, connectivity, and human talent reskilling of rising cities. In 2015, part of that job was to identify 20 rising cities with clear opportunities for Foreign Direct Investment (FDI). The Costa Rican Investment Promotion Agency (CINDE) in that regard has been featured in recent Howler articles.
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FDI opportunities in rising cities are tied to learning goals for English as a second language in those areas. In 2018, 200 people from San Carlos and Puntarenas, between the ages of 18 to 45, started the Skills for Life program. Its objective is to teach English and soft skills, such as finances and leadership, to 800 participants. The HR-GPS project is another example of striving to make human talent acquisition more effective, motivating them to invest more in Costa Rica’s rising cities. Finally, the Remote Work Law has enhanced the possibilities for hiring workers who do not need to commute from these regions or even change their place of residence. Amazon is a perfect example. In 2019, the company hired 1,050 collaborators who work in a virtual capacity. More than half of them — 53% — live and work outside the GMA.
Win-win benefits
The universal benefit of this law has strengthened the FZR by making it more efficient and practical, at the howlermag.com
same time improving the employees’ working conditions. There is no question that the FZR has been a dynamic force behind Costa Rica’s important steps forward to increase investment outside the metro area. CINDE’s data reveals that 547 jobs were created in 2019 as an outcome of FDI in rising cities. In the last four years, employment has increased by 10% annually. That robust growth has been attributed to an increase in medical devices exports, a reduction in the wage gap, and an increase in Costa Ricans' job opportunities. FDI from companies attracted by CINDE adds up to more than 118,000 jobs for a high-caliber labor force. Companies within the FZR are doubling their efforts to promote Costa Rica not only as an economically stable country, but increasingly wider and more desirable job opportunities for all our citizens. In the last four years, rising cities’ employment has increased by 10% annually.
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Aerial view of pineapple plantations in Costa Rica
Nature’s Abundance
by Jim Parisi and Alei Burns
Baskets of Bounty for Domestic and Export Markets
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CR BIZ FEATURE
griculture has always been vitally important to Costa Rica’s self-sustainability, while also playing an integral part in the Gross National Product for more than two centuries. The country’s diverse climates ensure a wide variety of fruits and vegetables can thrive, while dictating where these cash crops are best grown. Coffee, specifically, is harvested from plants grown in the cooler mountain regions. It has been Costa Rica’s leading export product since the end of the 18th century. The introduction of international big business into the economic equation has resulted in mono-agriculture plantations producing solely one of the next three biggest food export crops: bananas, pineapples or sugar. Overall, Costa Rica’s fruit and vegetable production accounts for about 10% of the nation’s economy, comprising about onefifth of its labor force. Agriculture, in turn, uses about 10% of the country’s land. It is a compact investment with very high returns.
area where corn was planted the previous season replenishes that soil’s nitrogen level. In addition, the benefits of “companion planting” are being demonstrated. Incorporating natural insect deterrents such as mint and lemongrass with vegetable plants keeps invasionary insects like the foraging Japanese beetle at bay, while also yielding a secondary, herbal crop. Many Tico farmers have discovered the drawbacks of the “slash and burn” technique. More and more, they are opting for reforestation and selective tree felling, recognizing the long-term benefits of these practices.
Small-scale sustainability
The real surprise is that Costa Rica’s agricultural economy has maintained a familial feel: nearly half of the farms here are less than 10 hectares (about 25 acres) in size. Sustainable farming has been practised for centuries, but techniques such as crop rotation are being adopted more widely. Farmers have learned, for example, that planting tomatoes or legumes in the same
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Red berries from coffee plantation in Costa Rica howlermag.com
It is a compact investment with very high returns. Ambitious outlook
With Costa Rica’s declaration of becoming the first carbon-neutral country on the planet by the end of 2021, these grassroots organic farming experiments have become the petri dish for agriculture’s larger-scale future. Ironically, all these farming techniques have been employed by Costa Rica’s indigenous Bribri nation for at least 3,000 years. In the Talamanca region especially, the Bribris practice a subsistent agroforestry. They harvest the natural growth beneath the forest canopy while rotating their introduced vegetation within the forest. Nutrient recycling is in the form of bat guano and composting to replenish the soil, thus deterring insects and other plant predators. Embracing centuries-old practices that have kept Costa Rica such a bountiful garden may be the key to progress on several promising fronts
Above left: Costa Rican banana farmer. Photo: JHVEPhoto / Shutterstock.com. Above right: Costa Rican postage stamp commemorating agricultural and industrial fair in Cartago, 1950. Photo: neftali / Shutterstock.com
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Jacó Impact
Making Waves in Ways that Matter
COMMUNITY FEATURE
by Emily Simmons
Reflecting Jacó Impact’s efforts to strengthen community relationships, Yorgina Ureña (pictured above center and far right of inset photo) was invited to conduct a recycling workshop during an anniversary event for the well-known environmental conservation group Green Wolf Costa Rica. Photos: Sergio Simón
Jacó’s issues can be addressed one by one, if the community bonds together. 18
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orn and raised in the neighboring port city of Puntarenas, Yorgina Ureña has been part of the Jacó community for almost a decade. As a young girl, she was easily inspired. Driven by passions of art, design and dance, Yorgina walked through life with a creative spirit. Nothing allowed as much self-expression, however, as her natural surroundings. A love for the ocean and the beautiful coastal environment captivated her swiftly and she spent most of her childhood on a boogie board. After leaving her family home at age 18 to work in a Guanacaste hotel, Ureña found herself surrounded by some of the best waves in the country. Taking almost every lunch break to spend a few fleeting moments of fun on her boogie board, she soon started experimenting with a surfboard. What began as an afternoon work break quickly became an obsession. Nearly 18 years after Yorgina’s first day on a surfboard, she still finds herself enjoying the sport that has brought her a unique and “blessed lifestyle.”
Following her passion for surf, Ureña traveled south to Jacó eight years ago. She worked hard to establish herself in the community, finding employment in various hotels and businesses. And, just as before, she ran to the ocean with her surfboard every chance she got. Yorgina’s identification as an adult surfer solidified her early love for nature. Countless hours spent in the ocean created a strong personal bond with this natural arena of beauty and sport. She grew exponentially, both as a surfer and a professional, while settling in Jacó. In an effort to give back to the place where she had gained so much, Yorgina started pursuing work opportunities with social development goals. She felt inspired to make an impact in areas where Jacó seemed to need stronger community support.
Community alliances
A paradise of natural beauty, the once-small coastal town of Jacó underwent rapid surges of
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development in the early 2000s. In the rush to keep pace with the tourist boom and a promising economy for new hotels and businesses to thrive, organized infrastructure was left behind. While Jacó remains an important central Pacific destination, residents have been negatively affected by aspects of this growth spurt that were not well organized for their long-term well being. One of Ureña’s main concerns, for example, is that there is no local hospital to serve a population that now stands at nearly 10,000 individuals. In response to this and other shortcomings is access to education, as well as general environmental awareness, she created a non-profit organization called Jacó Impact. Jacó Impact was founded upon the goal of “creando alianzas para nuestra communidad” — “creating alliances for our community.” Through larger projects and community-based activities, group members work to raise awareness of environmental issues and initiatives relating to education, social well being, arts and culture. Examples of Jacó Impact projects include free English classes for children, beach and river cleanups and recycling workshops in high schools. In a celebration of entrepreneurship and creativity, spaces are made available for artists and burgeoning professionals. Through word of mouth, social media and community events, Jacó Impact spreads its message of social movement. Yorgina believes that Jacó’s issues can be addressed one by one, if the community bonds together in commitment to making it a better place to live and visit. “As caregivers [of our environment] we must take the responsibility for finding and learning new tools and implementing them to create true actions and from there give support to our world,” she says. Locals and visitors alike, Ureña maintains, can make their own individual impact on the beautiful community of Jacó.
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Harmonize Your Objectives Be Happy Working for Others and for Yourself
ENTREPRENEUR COSTA RICA
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et me begin by saying that I’ve taken my time getting around to writing about this topic. It’s one that I hope you will find relevant and empowering in your personal and professional life as my previous Howler articles were intended to be. For readers not familiar with my background, I am an Integrative Health Coach living in Costa Rica and an entrepreneur like you. Currently, most of my work hours are dedicated to marketing and sales for one major client. But as may be the case with many of you, I have certain other objectives that I want to accomplish for the sake of feeling fulfilled. It is hardly a secret that we, as humans universally, are always striving for happiness. How can we be happier? The answer is often connected with our achievement of goals. The distinct feeling of satisfaction when that happens is something we would like to hang on to. Running our own business, we are constantly following action plans to ensure everything gets done with the optimal results. When we succeed, our business succeeds and this is satisfying. So as humans seeking fulfilment in our lives outside of business, shouldn’t the same result be possible? How can we get to the next level of self-satisfaction? Harmony is the key to being excited about working for others and working for yourself at the same time. It’s about creating harmony between both. Here are some tips to help you synchronize your work and your personal objectives. 1.
2.
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Set goals for you Entrepreneurs know this better than anyone: your work project goals are in line with your clients’ goals. Set your personal goals in parallel. Sleep, eat, move, share and love. These are important goals to keep your mind and body in optimum shape. Pay attention to your personal objectives and I guarantee you’ll be efficient in your work. Plan My June 2019 Howler article about time management emphasized that setting priorities and staying focused were two key factors for coping with one unchangeable
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by Joanna Blanco
fact of life: every day has 24 hours. You need to divide your day correctly. Consider this approach: 8-8-8. Divide your day into three parts and allocate a portion to sleep, to work, and to eat, move, relate, have fun and connect with yourself. It doesn't have to be a precisely equal-parts equation, but shortchanging yourself during one part of the day is bound to have negative consequences. For example, how do you feel and how well do you function at work after getting only four or five hours of sleep? Or do you constantly lack the energy to do anything other than sleep? Plan to balance your equation harmoniously. 3.
Don't give up too soon Plans are not made to be perfect. The beauty of having a plan is that it’s your way of trying. One of the most repeated pieces of advice is the first sentence in this paragraph. If the plan you started out with did not give you the desired result, then rethink it. Create a new plan. Add some new energy, change your strategy and take one step further.
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Self-care The new religion, as I call it, is to care about your personal goals. The way you take care of yourself is every bit as vital as the way you care about your work. You need harmony in all areas in your life, but it mostly comes down to these two: work and the rest of your life. As an entrepreneur, these two areas can be mixed very easily. Just pay attention if this mixture is working for you.
When you accomplish any one of your objectives, you will feel happier. This mood will help you create more harmony in your life to succeed in your business and your health. Want some help harmonizing your life? Contact me: joanna.blanco@vivesattva.com / IG Movimiento Sattva howlermag.com
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Vacation Home Renters are Not Just Guests Be the Kind of Neighbor You Want Next Door at Home
Real Estate 101
by Jodee Lynette
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ravelers have been staying in private homes for as long as there have been people on the move. The internet has revolutionized this practice. Vacationing in a homey environment is often the best of both worlds for vacationers and corporate travelers. But sometimes it is the worst possible scenario for surrounding homeowners. They are just doing their thing, living an everyday life, when suddenly a neighboring home turns into a college fraternity house. Here in Costa Rica, it is a fast and disruptive way to lose the tranquility of pura vida. It is common knowledge that vacation rentals have earned a bad rap, and for good reason. Yet sometimes the people renting these homes don’t seem to care. This doesn’t make much sense, as the whole idea of a vacation rental is to have the homey and neighborly experience. So here are a few reminders. • Remember not to have more people staying in your vacation rental than what you agreed with the owner when making the reservation. • If you have guests over even for just a few hours, their behavior is your responsibility. • Take care of the property as if you owned it. Avoid behaviors and activities that cause damage. Just a few of many, many examples include lighting a fire where it doesn’t belong, overloading the washing machine, showering when your body is covered in sand and swinging wildly in the hammock. • Conserve energy and water as if it is your own home. • Park respectfully and correctly, only where permitted. • Keep the noise level at a considerate decibel at all times. Drop that noise level at a considerate hour in the evening and mornings. • Remember to keep the doors locked. You wanted a neighborly and local experience for your vacation, but that means being neighborly and acting like you would if you lived here. Remember you are always an ambassador of your gender, age group, race and nationality, and also the vacation rental industry. Make a good impression.
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OCEAN SURF & SUN
Serving the Gold Coast since 1999 Call us at 1-866-976-8898 / 2653-0073 Playa Tamarindo, Guanacaste, Costa Rica
www.remax-oceansurf-cr.com
The experts in buying property in Costa Rica, with more than 20 years experience and the largest networked team of agents in the country. We can help you learn if investing in Costa Rica is right for you with our educational approach to sales. Our professional agents can tell you more about Costa Rica properties including condos, homes, lots and commercial real estate. We have a team of professional and very experienced agents to serve you, from Playa Marbella to Playa Danta in the Guanacaste, through our Playa Tamarindo ofďŹ ce. Contact us for more information! (506) 2653-0073
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 23
Luxury Real Estate
Costa Rica
COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE SERVICES, WORLDWIDE
Buy | Sell | Rent | Property Management Villa Christopher | $2,895,000 | 6 Bed/7.1 Bath | 5,500 SF
Flamingo - Ocean View
Playa Flamingo - Beachfront
Casa Linda del Mar|$2,37M|4Bed/4.1Bath
Ostional | $1,995,000 | 4 Bed/4.1 Bath
Playa Potrero - Ocean View Flamingo|$1,49M |6 Bed/3.1 Bath
Villa Bougainvillea|$2,495,000|8Bed/8.2 Bath|3,821 SF
Villa Rio Ruby Sky - Ocean View
Hermosa | $1.25M | 4 Bed/4.1 Bath
Casa Islana |$1.950,000 | 8 Bed/8.2 Bath
Ocotal - Ocean View
Potrero | $1,19M | 7 Bed/7.1 Bath
Oceanica Penthouse
Ocean View
El Sueño de Ocotal
Ocean View Villa!
Casa Mar Vista
Ocean View! Potrero | $625K | 3 Bed/3.2 Bath
Ocotal | $675K | 8 Bed/7 Bath
Casa Tiger - Beachfront
Reserva | $549K | 4 Bed/4 Bath
Flamingo |$525K |3 Bed/2 Bath
Bougainvillea 8103
Ocean & Golf Course Views!
Oceanica 810
Ocean View & Walk-to-Beach
Potrero| $459K | 3 Bed/3.1 Bath
Villa Ballena
Beachfront Duplex
Villas Catalina 12
Ocean View & Walk-to-Beach!
www.KrainRealEstate.com | 2654-4010 | 1-866-994-9163 24
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Potrero |$459K | 2 Bed/2 Bath
Flamingo|$389K|2 Bed/2.1 Bath
Potrero | $389K | 3 Bed/2.1 Bath
Potrero | $369K | 4 Bed/3 Bath Casa Cristobal
Casa Vida
Walk-to-Beach! Walk-to-Beach!
Pacific Beach 5
Beachfront
Flamingo Towers 16
Ocean View
Potrero | $359K | 4 Bed/3 Bath
Ocotal | $349K | 3 Bed/3 Bath
Casa Fresca
Walk-to-Beach! Potrero | $349K | 1 Bed/1 Bath
Potrero | $279K | 2 Bed/2 Bath Casa del Sol
Other Units Available!
Pacific Beach 7
Beachfront Con
Azul Paraíso 1C
KRAIN Costa Rica | COMMERCIAL REAL ESTATE SERVICES Brasilito|$9.9M|383 Hectares
Flamingo | $5.95M | 6782m2
Coco | $4.5M | 1.18 Hectares
Bagaces|$4M|1200 Hectares
La Fortuna |$2,995M | 30 Acre
Leaves & Lizards
Boutique Hotel
Toro Azul
Development - 9 Land Plots
Titled Beachfront - FLAMINGO
Hotel Site - Residential Development
Tamarindo | $2.47M | 26,956m2
Tamarindo Paradise
Hotel Site or Residential
+1M Existing Improvements
Coco | $1,399M | 11,830 m2
Commercial Road Frontage Mixed-Use Development
Beachfront
Zoned - Tourism
Hotel or Mixed-Use Brasilito | $1,285M | 16 Rooms
Conchal Hotel
& Papaya Restaurant
Burdeos Cattle Ranch
Montezuma|$1.195M|9 Rooms
Tambor | $949K | 9 Rooms
Horizontes de Montezuma
Boutique Hotel
Castillo Resort
Boutique Hotel & Restaurant
OUR PASSION IS REAL ESTATE. Our team is comprised of U.S. and Canadian licensed agents who have chosen real estate as their profession and value the high standards imposed by U.S. and Canadian licensing requirements. KRAIN’s local reputation and expertise is backed by its selection as a member of the Leading Real Estate Companies of the World®, a global community of over 550 international real estate companies awarded membership based on rigorous standards for service and performance. KRAIN is also the exclusive Costa Rica affiliate for NAI Global, the 4th largest commercial brokerage in the world, and Mayfair International Realty, a London based firm with a global reach. KRAIN’s Luxury Marketing is fueled by Luxury Portfolio. Simply put, we are the best at what we do. Our professionalism, knowledge, and high quality of service is the cornerstone of our unprecedented success and is our continued promise to you, our clients.
Breitlander Team
Peter & Sarah | Owners
Jeff Goode
Broker Associate
Jane & Dennis
Broker Associates
Les McIntyre
Broker Associate
Rafferty Team
Debra & Frank | Brokers
Jesse Lobb
Broker Associate
Monett Team
Hickey Team
Doug & Sharon | Brokers Ryan & Chrissy | Brokers
8413-7165 or 6148-0406 C.R. Cell: 8411-5347 8844-2577 or 8701-8697 C.R. Cell: 8511-1625 8504-8394 or 8363-1247 C.R. Cell: 8530-0275
C.R. Cell: 8510-1154 8829-8983 or 8426-7380 info@kraincostarica.com Jeff@kraincostarica.com Jane@kraincostarica.com Les@kraincostarica.com Rafferty@kraincostarica.com Jesse@kraincostarica.com Doug@kraincostarica.com Hickey@kraincostarica.com
LeadingRE.com | LuxuryPortfolio.com | MayfairInternationalRealty.com
Offices in Tamarindo, Flamingo, Potrero, and Ocotal
Costa Rica
Luxury Real Estate
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 25
CR BIZ
New Obligations for Inactive Corporations by Ivan Granados
I
n December 2019, a new resolution (DGT-R-075-2019) was announced in Costa Rica that requires inactive corporations to: 1. 2.
Register with the Tax Office’s Single Tax Registry — the Spanish name is Registro Único Tributario (RUT) — under the code number “960113.” Submit annual tax return forms regarding their assets, liability and share capital. Previously, only corporations that were active, or generating income, had this Tax Office filing obligation.
LEGALEASE
This new law requires two forms, D-140 and D-135, to be filed according to scheduled deadlines indicated later in this article. Failure to comply is subject to heavy fines of up to 1,350,600 colones or $2,390 US, or more. Inactive corporations are defined as: “…those companies incorporated in the country that do not have lucrative, income producing, activity of a Costa Rican source.” This includes all commercial companies, branches of foreign companies and individual limited liability companies. There are two steps required for compliance with the new law: 1. File form D-140: Declaración de Inscripción en el Registro Único Tributario via the Virtual Tax Administration (ATV) at www.hacienda.go.cr. This form covers pertinent details such as the corporation’s legal representative, address data, contact information, etc. 2. File form D-135: Declaration for Legal Persons Patrimonial Dormant is also available via ATV. This
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form is a declaration of assets, liabilities and share capital. Specific aspects to note for each step are as follows.
Step 1
It is not necessary to file form D-140 if the company/ corporation had already filed D-140 with the Tax Office in 2017 or 2018, in compliance with Law 9248: Tax on Legal Persons. Filing deadlines for form D-140 correspond to the last digits of a corporation’s legal ID: Legal ID ending 1 and 2 3 and 4 5 and 6 7 and 8 9 and 10
Filing Month January 2020 February 2020 March 2020 April 2020 May 2020
Step 2
Form D-135: Declaration for Legal Persons Patrimonial Dormant is filed annually. This requirement applies even if the corporation/company had no change in income status. For example, if there was no income in 2020 nor in 2021, an annual return must still be filed. The filing deadline for Form D-135 is within two months and 15 days from the fiscal year end. The current fiscal year ends on December 31, 2020. Therefore, the first filing period for Form D-135 will be between January 1, 2021 and March 15, 2021. howlermag.com
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 27
HOWLER
DINING GUIDE
Sentido Norte Margaritaville W Costa Rica — Reserva Conchal El Barco Open to the Public with Reservations
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DINING GUIDE
ZO NA A ZUL
Zona Azul Beach Club
B E AC H C LU B
Hours Lunch: Dinner: Pool:
MENU SELECTIONS Noon-6pm 6-10pm 10am
Special Events Zona Azul Day Pass $100 (Consumables towards Beverage & Food $80) Caliente (Latin Classics & Salsa Classes) Fiesta No Siesta (Saturday Pool Party) Detox Retox Repeat (Sunday BBQ + Live Music)
GALLO PINTO CROQUETTES
BUDDHA BOWL
LIMA CEVICHE
WINGS & BBQ PORK RIBS
Lizano mayo, scorpion chilli, pico de gallo
Turkey, quinoa, grilled veggies & pesto sauce
Sea bass, leche de tigre, rocoto, sweet potato, lime juice
CRAVING
Strawberry barbecue, hot mango, oriental
FIRE GRILLED SEAFOOD
EL PARRILLON
Octopus, shrimp, squid, chilli sauce, sourdough toasted bread
New York steak, pork belly chicharrón, sausage, chicken breast
Cocina de Mercado: Market-inspired restaurant Hours Breakfast: Mon-Fri, 6:30-10:30am Sat, Sun 6:30-11am Lunch: Noon-3pm Dinner: 6-10pm Special Event - W Brunch $65* Unlimited Food Showcase & Beverage When: First Sunday of each month 12.30-3.30pm Live Music!
Open market concept with indoor and outdoor seating featuring a large show kitchen where guests have the chance to interact with our chefs. Must-try: Sudado de pescado (Catch of the day and seafood stew) or lamb shank with beer and coriander risotto
Latitud 10° Norte: Boutique bistro Hours Dinner:
6-10pm
Specialty: Mixology Dining Experience includes 4 signature cocktails paired with 4 L1°N dishes $90* RSVP required
Explore a labyrinth of exotic flavors in this boutique bistro, serving sophisticated fare. Must-try: Braised short ribs or shrimp angu
WHATEVER /WHENEVER® Reservations for every restaurant (or anything else you need at the W) are available at Whatever/Whenever. 30
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Call: 2654-3600
howlermag.com WhatsApp: 8489-7458
FEATURED DRINK
Jacó Downtown Calle Bohio Hours: Daily, 7 a.m. - 10 p.m. Happy Hour 4 p.m. - 7 p.m. Phone: 2643-1642
Chiliguaro
The Real Taste of Costa Rica by Howler Staff
T
here’s no question that chiliguaro is Costa Rica’s most famous cocktail. You can find this spicy shot at most bars in the country. Competitions and tastings are held to see who has the best Chiliguaro recipe. Most places create the mix in large quantities with a bottle of guaro, 10 to 12 mandarin limes and a bottle of Tabasco. Chiliguaro is a very simple recipe, and it is a real taste of local Costa Rica. The recipe below for chiliguaro has been sized for six servings so all your friends can enjoy.
Ingredients • • • •
3/4 cup Cacique guaro 3 cups tomato juice 1/2 cup mandarin lime juice 3 tbsp tabasco
Method • • • •
Prepare in a shaker Add salt to the rim of a highball glass Pour all the ingredients in Stir
Daily Specials Mon: Cheeseburger and fries Tue: Beef, chicken or fish casado
International Cuisine: Strategically located in downtown Jacó, Poseidon restaurant at Trident Hotel offers a variety of signature plates of international cuisine, as well as all-day specials and vegan options, all cooked with love. Additionally we offer our hotel services plus our sports bar menu at the famous third-floor Sky Lounge.
Wed: Fish burrito and salad Thu: Beef onion cheddar sub Fri: Fish and chips Sat: Asian chicken stir fry
Sun: Eggs benedict and mimosa
Menu Selections
Smoked Salmon Dip Ribeye USDA choice Mahi-Mahi Fish Ceviche Babaganoush
Tuna Poke Baby Back Ribs Flat Iron Steak Vegan Putanesca Pasta Mystic Middle East Lentil Stew
www.hotel-poseidon.com @TridentJacoCR HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 31
JACÓ
DINING GUIDE
DINING GUIDE
PLAYA GRANDE
Hours: Daily 8 a.m. - 5 p.m. Phone: 4701 2394 potsandbowls@gmail.com
Coffee Shop and Plants Fresh, healthy and fun. Focus on homemade ingredients. Different dietary options: gluten-free, lactose-free vegan.
We offer a unique menu of fresh local seafood as well as tasty treats from the land. We are family friendly and offer special menus for kids 12 and under. RipJack also offers full catering service and specializes in weddings and other special events. Although the restaurant is in the treetops, it is wheelchair accessible. Playa Grande Call 2653 0480 8 a.m. - 9 p.m. Tuna Tower ₡5,800 A stack of ahi tuna, cucumber, heart of palm and avocado in a creamy wasabi aioli
Menu Selections
Burrata Caprese ₡8,000 Tomato wedges, Burrata cheese, fresh basil and olive oil
Acai-Banana and OJ - Blackberries, chia, homemade granola & banana
Kale Caesar ₡5,500 Romaine and kale w/ homemade Caesar dressing topped with croutons and fried kale
Angus Cheeseburger – Dehydrated tomato, arugula, caramelized onions, aioli $15
Sesame Crusted Tuna ₡11,000 With crunchy broccoli over a mix of brown rice, Asian bean sprouts and truffle oil
Fish or Chicken Tacos – Cabbage salad with mango and pico de gallo, avocado, honey mustard and homemade tortilla $14
Mahi Mahi ₡10,500 Pan fried served with crispy capers, cherry comfit and fennel, over cauliflower puree
Tuna Poke - Sushi rice, avocado, edamame, wakame, mango
Veggie Bowl
Ribeye ₡11,500 12-oz. steak served with haystack sweet potato fries and salad
Grilled Mahi
BBQ Ribs
@potsandbowls 32
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www.ripjackinn.com @ripjackinn howlermag.com
Huacas Hours: 5 p.m. - 10:30 p.m. Daily Phone: 2653-6296 8729-5640 200 m. west of the Brasilito/Huacas crossroads, Huacas
Delivery Available!
New York Pizzeria is your go-to pizza spot in Guanacaste for an authentic New York style pizza. All pizzas are offered with a size selection of either small, medium or large, depending on your appetite. Add a side order of breadsticks as an appetizer and an ice cream treat for dessert. Dine-in, take-out, or delivery available, with free wifi throughout the restaurant.
Poolside Dining: 3 km. south Located at the Seis Playas Hotel, La Playita Restaurant & of Huacas, Bar is open to the public and road to is known for its friendly and inviting environment. It is the Tamarindo ideal setting for sharing good food and drinks with family Hours and friends, or a romantic Daily 7 a.m. - 9 p.m. dinner poolside while Breakfast 7 a.m. - 9 a.m. enjoying the convenient Phone: 2653 6818 distance to six beaches.
Specialties
Food cooked to your taste con mucho gusto! Friday Night Texas Barbecue
Menu Selections House Special Pizza: Tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese, onion, sweet pepper, mushrooms, pepperoni, and ham. Meat Lover’s Pizza: Tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese, seasoned ground beef, pepperoni, salami, bacon, and ham. Margherita Pizza: Tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese, basil, and fresh tomatoes.
Menu Selections Broken Yolk Sandwich $12
Fried egg, bacon or ham and cheese on toast, served with seasonal fruit
Breakfast Quesadilla $12
Eggs, tomato, onion, sweet pepper and cheese, served with seasonal fruit
Hamburger Pizza: Tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese, onion, fresh tomato, and seasoned ground beef.
BLT La Playita $10
Three Queens Pizza: Tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese, mushrooms, pepperoni, and ham.
Pasta $14
Vegetarian Pizza: Tomato sauce, mozzarella cheese, onion, sweet pepper, mushrooms, pineapple, fresh tomato, broccoli, and olives.
Always a favorite for a light bite to eat: bacon, lettuce and tomato
Build your own pasta bowl, with a mixed salad
Open Grill From $16
Pork tenderloin, chicken breast, ribeye, New York strip, beef tenderloin and catch of the day
Pineapple Flambe $4
Our most popular dessert served hot with vanilla ice cream
www.nypizzeriahuacas.com @nypizzeriahuacas
www.seisplayashotel.com @Seisplayashotel HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 33
HUACAS
DINING GUIDE
DINING GUIDE
LANGOSTA / TAMARINDO
European-Tico Fusion, Beachfront Restaurant We're nestled in a beautiful tropical garden within the Hotel Capitán and offer a modern, healthy and fresh cuisine. Our chef has created the dishes inspired by his European heritage and the incredible products available in Costa Rica. Using homegrown ingredients from our organic garden, we strive to offer our guests an environmentally friendly menu and an authentic experience. Langosta Call 2653 0075 Daily Noon - 9:30 p.m. Mon & Fri: 7-9 pm Live marimba
Wed: 7-9 pm Avellino
Specialties: Healthy dishes made from scratch with local and fresh products.
Tacos Carne (Lunch) $15 Beef in tortillas with mixed cabbage salad, guacamole and tamarindo sauce The Veggie (Lunch) $15 Grilled portobello, tomato, zucchini chile-almonds-garlic sauce, homemade bun Calamari Crujientes (Snack) $13 Crispy calamari with homemade green pesto and a honey, red onion escabech Tartar Capitán (Dinner) $13 Tuna and mango tartar with capers and a s cilantro, ginger and soy dressing
Nordico is a cozy place that serves always freshly roasted barista specialty coffee, plus healthy food and drinks made with love. We use only the best local products and have great pastries and lots of vegan options. Nordico is spacious, has WiFi/AC and a terrace outside to enjoy the chillin‘ vibes! Tamarindo Call 4700 9521 Daily 7 a.m. - 10 p.m. Happy Hour 4 p.m. - 6 p.m. We sell specialty coffee beans from Costa Rica Açai Bowl ₡4,000 With fruits and homemade granola/almonds Pancakes ₡3,500 Served with strawberries, powdered sugar, syrup, almonds and caramel Edamame Salad ₡4,500 Spinach, arugula, edamame beans, carrots, avocado, apple, feta, dressing, bread Zucchini Shrimp Bowl ₡5,000 Zucchini, shrimp, salad, roasted sesame, ginger, chili, tomato, lemon Angus Cheeseburger ₡6,500 Angus beef,cheddar, lettuce, tomato, salsa, sweet potato fries Seafood Risotto ₡9,500 Risotto rice, shrimps, mussels, squids
Children's Menus available. Ask about our Coffee Workshop every Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday 4 p.m.
Linguini (Dinner) $23 Calamari, jumbo shrimps, mussels, Spanish chorizo, cherry tomatoes, white wine Lomito (Dinner) $28 200 g of tenderloin with a tamarindo sauce over Swiss roesti and vegetables.
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www.hotelcapitansuizo.com @elbarco.beachfront Email: restaurante@hotelcapitansuizo.com
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www.nordicocoffeehouse.com
@nordicocoffeehouse @nordicocoffeehouse info@nordicocoffeehouse.com
howlermag.com
“Yes, our restaurants are open to the public!�
Hours: Sunday - Thursday Noon - 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday Noon - Midnight Happy Hour: 4:30 - 6:30 pm Phone: 2654-4444 ext 3264 Specialties: Nachos, tacos, burgers, salads and sandwiches
Best place on the Gold Coast to take in panoramic oceanfront views and multi-screen sports TV while enjoying hand-crafted cocktails and a delicious casual dining menu. You will want to return again and again for juicy cheeseburgers and mouthwatering tacos, not to mention the perfect margaritas and other specialty cocktails. Enjoy a beautiful sunset view during the daily Happy Hour 4:30 to 6:30 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday nights feature live entertainment with the best of the area's local bands and musical talent.
Live Music Regularly Scheduled Check schedule and updates on our Facebook page @5oCSBG
A perfect blend of Costa Rican and international cuisine that includes freshly caught local fish and grass-fed beef. Enjoy the oceanfront sea breeze on the outdoor patio or dine inside in airconditioned comfort. Hours: Daily 6:30 a.m. - 9:30 p.m. breakfast, lunch, dinner Phone: 2654-4444 ext. 3269 Specialties: Fresh fish, grass-fed beef, international buffets, kid's menu
An Italian bistro with a tropical view. Choose from a selection of pizzas, pastas and paninis, or build your own dish with a variety of fresh, delicious ingredients. Hours: Daily 5 p.m. - 11:30 p.m. Pizza only from 9:30 p.m. Phone: 2654-4444 ext. 3268 Specialty artisanal pizza oven; design your own pizzas and pastas
Check out all the other amenities available: www.margaritavillebeachresortcostarica.com HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 35
PLAYA FLAMINGO
DINING GUIDE
DINING GUIDE
SURFSIDE / POTRERO
Potrero 4702 8689 Open for dinner 4 - 9:30 p.m. Fresh-made desserts! Children's Menu Original menu items at very affordable prices.
LIVE MUSIC! Wed 6:30 p.m.
Sun 7 p.m.
Happy Hour 4 - 6 p.m. Closed Monday. $2 national beers 2 cocktails for $7
Enjoy breakfast, lunch or a sunset dinner at a charming restored beach house only a few meters from the ocean. We're located on the road to Potrero, next to where the boats depart. Enjoy fresh seafood, local favorites and classic American foods ... a tantalizing menu of your favorites. Potrero Call 2654-6203 Daily 8 a.m. - 9 p.m.
Brisket Sandwich $12.50
Live entertainment on Sunday evenings.
20-hour slow hickory smoked Nicaraguan brisket
Pork Steak Dinner $17.99 Hickory smoked pork steak served with BBQ beans and fries
Sushi Menu
1. Chef's Ultimate Pancakes $ 7 2. Grilled Scallops $10 3. Bang Bang Shrimp $10 4. Seafood Platter $19 5. Taste of the Sea $15 6. Grilled Lobster Tails $30 Prices subject to change based on market availability.
with 10 rolls starting at $10.99 up to $12.99 made to order
Angus Burger 1/3 pound $7.90 1/2 pound $8.90 with prime American beef Arroz Con Camarones $14.99 Tico style rice and shrimp served with patacones Red Snapper $17.99 Fried, whole Served with grilled vegetables, rice or fries
Bring your swimsuit! www.fatdaddycr.com @fatdaddyscr @fatdaddyspotrero 36
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Happy Hour Monday through Thursday 4 - 6 p.m. $2 off all draft beer IPA's, Golden Ale, Pilsen, Amber Buy one get one free house mixed drinks 10% off appetizers!
www.beachhousecr.com @TheBeachHouseBarAndRestaurant howlermag.com
LAS CATALINAS
DINING GUIDE Our community is always invited to dine with us! At Casa Chameleon, 4 km north of the Potrero soccer field
www.sentidonorterestaurant.com
Sentido Norte, a restaurant and bar at Casa Chameleon, proudly offers an adult fine-dining experience that celebrates the best of Costa Rican cuisine. Your drive through winding roads above the quaint beach town of Las Catalinas is rewarded by an unforgettable but affordable taste of luxury. Just a few steps uphill from the bright and welcoming entrance, your table awaits in a gorgeous, open-air perch framed by a panoramic view of the Pacific. A design motif incorporating responsibly-sourced teak adds a sense of warmth and well-being to the romantically lit atmosphere. All food and drinks are inspired by the country’s bountiful abundance, combining uniquely local and native ingredients in the glass and on the plate. Hours: Daily 7 a.m. - 10 p.m. No children under 12 years Phone: 2103-1200
RSVP: reservations@sentidonorterestaurant.com
Specialties: Fresh fish, sunset cocktails, "boquitas" menu
MENU SELECTIONS Overnight Oats $8 With almond milk, yogurt, fruit, cashews, local honey or tapa dulce French Toast $12 With sweet plantains and coconut milk cream Knife & Fork Tortillas $14 ChicharrĂłn or vegan huevos rancheros Vegan Omelettes $14 With asparagus, mushrooms and caramelized onion Casa Chameleon Burger $19 Angus burger with arugula, Swiss or goat cheese and aioli Ceviche $14 Fresh fish ceviche, leche de tigre, homemade "chilero" Grilled Chicken Wrap $17 With greens, avocado & tomato, spicy aioli Vegan Bowl $19 Quinoa, mushroom and squash picadillo salad, spicy garbanzo beans Guacamole and Salsa $12 Hearts of palm ceviche, avocado and tomato Grilled Shrimp Salad $25 Fresh shrimp with local fresh vegetables @sentidonorterestaurant Grilled Skirt Steak $32 Skirt steak, chimichurri sauce, salad, french fries Mushroom Lamb Risotto $33 Slowly braised with porcini, portobello and cremini mushrooms Prices shown include 13% tax and 10% service / Prices subject to change
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 37
DINING GUIDE
Tuesday - Sunday 9 a.m. - 1 a.m. Proudly Serving Numu Beer!
Jacรณ downtown, 200 m. south of bridge
@greenroomcafe
Freshly prepared locally sourced ingredients serving relaxed brunch, dinner and cocktails in an urban oasis ... focusing on Costa Rican artisan craft beer. Specialties: Live DJs Tue and Wed Live Music: Thur, Fri and Sat
2643 4425
Check out our online edition, The Dining Guide.
Follow our Facebook group: Discounts Tamarindo Area to discover discounts, specials, s, Holiday events and more from our restaurant family! y!
Potrero 2654 4500
Cl Click on your restaurant of choice and receive its online menu!
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Join us in the journey! Loving God, loving others... Brasilito
Sunday 10 am English Saturday 6 pm Spanish www.beachcommunitychurchcr.com @beachcommunitychurch.costarica Studies for Youth, Ladies & Men
Thursdays @ 6 p.m. 38
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Potrero 2654 4500
Potrero 2654 4500
Sports TV, concerts, special events! Take out and delivery! Open Daily Hours 11 a.m. - Midnight
www.perlas.pub @perlas.potrero
Apps & Taps
Potrero 2654 4319
New owners, new menu! (formerly Maxwells)
Click the online edition of Howler for more details!
Open Monday - Saturday 11 a.m. - 11 p.m.
New name, new food, still the great service and staff! Tuesday - Sunday 8 a.m. to 9 p.m.. Closed Monday
Angelinas
Reservations recommended www.angelinasplayaflamingo.com angelinaflamingo@gmail.com
Wednesday - Monday 11 a.m. - Midnight Tuesday 4 p.m. - Midnight
Potrero 2654 4500
@costaricasailingcenter
Located on the way to Playa Grande in Matapalo across from the fĂştbol field. Stop in and say hello to Leo, the owner. Amazing food and local pricing. You might not be able to cook at home for less. The locals' place to hang out, always friendly and smiling. Great Local Prices! A full bar with a simple to sumptuous menu. Our mood is a casual, friendly elegance, paying keen attention to detail and service.
The Great Waltini's Restaurant
Bula Bula Hotel Playa Grande Hours 7:30 a.m. - Midnight
www.wil-mart.com @wilmartcostaria
Playa Grande 2249 0387
Potrero Potrero 2654 26544500 4500
Potrero 2654-4300 www.crhemingways.com w reservations@crhemingways.com
Angelinas captures the raw essence of just how intertwined the love of family and fine dining are. Our unique, open-air restaurant is located on the second floor of the +506 2654-4839 Centro Commercial in beautiful Playa Flamingo. Multi-Cuisine, Fine Dining!
Open 7 Days! 5 - 10 p.m. Flamingo
Potrero Potrero 2654 26544500 4500
@apps&taps
Matapalo 8567 2493
2653 0975 www.hotelbulabula.com @hotelbulabulacostarica
Open Daily: Hours 7 a.m. - 10 p.m. Delivery service available! Cruce de Salinitas, Carretera de Matapalo a Playa Grande, Santa Cruz, Guanacaste
Supermarket Harvest Juice Lab Bar Restaurant El Pinto Burned Bar Restaurant The Rincon De Playa Grande Amigo Realty Sales & Rentals Station The Brewing Co. -----------------------------Supermercado Cosechas Juice Lab Bar Restaurante El Pinto Quemado Bar Restaurante El Rincon De Playa Grande Amigo Realty Sales & Rentals Stations Las Olas Brewing Co.
Huacas 2653 6273 Main road, north side midway between Super Compro and intersection to Brasilito
Great quality typical Costa Rican food and ice cold beer! Open Daily Hours 6 a.m. - 9 p.m. HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 39
10% Discount "Howler" code
Visit Howlermag.com/ CRdining Click on restaurant's logo for their complete menu and information. When visiting, let them know you saw them in the Howler Dining Guide!
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This is a beautiful authentic Guanacaste adventure afternoon activity that we highly recommend. Dine with the stars of Guanacaste on a private ranch. We cater our package to fit your group's needs. Ziplining horseback and so much more! End your adventure with a very delicious BBQ dinner buffet for you & your amigos.
Playa Grande 2653 0975 www.hotelbulabula.com
Flamingo 8869 3999 www.amigostacosybeer.com
Dinner Adventure
Enjoy a casual dining experience with build-your-own tacos and burritos with ice cold beer and margaritas. Choose your guilty pleasure: a taco, burrito, nachos or bowl, then load it up with your choice of one of our mouthwatering meat options and fresh toppings. We serve only the freshest ingredients in our homemade guacamole and various salsas. Beat the heat with our daily 2 for 1 margarita happy hour specials from 2 p.m - 4 p.m.
If you would like any special food requests, please let us know well in advance.
Short estuary trip to dinner at The Great Waltini's in Bula Bula Hotel
Call for more information and reservations: 8869 9765
Taxi is complimentary with dinner reservations.
8 minute drive from Tamarindo 2 km south Villarreal
Open 11 a.m - 9 p.m. Sunday closed.
@blackstallionhills blackstalliononline@yahoo.com
@Amigos Tacos y Beer @amigos_tacosybeer
Three pickup times at Tamarindo Estuary: 5, 5:30 and 6 p.m.
2653 0975 @HotelBulaBulaCostaRica
HM HOWLER MAGAZINE | 41
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UP TO 20o/o DIS1COUNT ON ALL OUR SERVICES
Learn how to fly a Gyro! Or just take a round trip with us.
LYWI HUS!
COSTA RICA FLIGHT SCHOOL SCENICFLIGHTS• INSTRUCTIONS• TOURS t
BOOK NOW 8827-8858
info@autogyroamerica.com
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