Hyde Park Accent Magazine Fall/Winter 2010

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A C C E N T/ T H E M A G A Z I N E O F L I F E ’ S C E L E B R AT I O N S ♦ FA L L / W I N T E R 2 0 1 0

D E N V E R

L A S

V E G A S

P H O E N I X


Breguet, the innovator. The first wristwatch, 1810 In tribute to the first wristwatch created for the Queen of Naples in 1810, Breguet reinvents the ladies’ watch in a classic case with a contemporary profile. The various models in the Reine de Naples collection radiate a refined blend of expertise, elegance and precious materials, lending their aesthetic backdrop to an array of horological complications, art and jewellery. History is still being written ... www.breguet.com/inventions



Dear Friends, A

s I sit here writing this letter, we are anxiously awaiting the opening of our newly remodeled flagship store in Cherry Creek Shopping Center, Denver. Seeing the construction brings me back to the beginnings of Hyde Park over 34 years ago. Wow, we’ve come a long way! We are thrilled to share in the newly redesigned store with all of you who have made Hyde Park’s success possible over the years. Our focus for the remodel was to enhance each client’s shopping experience by offering the best product selection and customer service, in an environment that is both welcoming and luxurious. We hope that our efforts have served to accomplish these objectives. Each year, we re-evaluate our collections and look for opportunities to both enhance originality of design, as well as present iconic classic collections. We are extremely proud to introduce several new brands this fall, including Cartier’s Fine Watchmaking Collection (see page 42). We are proud to be selected as one of two companies in the United States to introduce this groundbreaking haute horlogerie collection. Ivanka Trump has also selected Hyde Park as one of her launch partners to showcase her Art Deco-inspired collection of precious jewels (see page 24). Perhaps the most heralded individual Swiss watchmaker in history, Abraham Louis Breguet, also joins our family of extraordinary watches, along with Bell & Ross and Chopard’s LUC Collection (see page 46). As we unveil the newly remodeled flagship store, we invite all of our friends and clients to visit us. We hope you are as inspired as we are. As a valued client of Hyde Park, your comments and feedback are very important to us. I encourage you to e-mail or call with your comments, questions, suggestions and any other ideas or opinions you may have. Please don’t hesitate to contact me by e-mail (mpollak@hpjewels.com) or phone (303.333.4446 ext. 7799). Please enjoy this issue of Accent magazine. We wish you a fulfilling holiday season and look forward to seeing you soon.

Warm Regards,

Michael Pollak CEO, Hyde Park Jewelers mpollak@hpjewels.com

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Contents fall/winter 2010 HYDE PARK JEWELERS DENVER

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Cherry Creek Shopping Center 3000 E. 1st Ave. Denver, CO 80206 Phone (303) 333-4446 PHOENIX

Biltmore Fashion Park 2442 E. Camelback Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85016 Phone (602) 667-3541 LAS VEGAS

Forum Shops 3500 Las Vegas Blvd. South Las Vegas, NV 89109 Phone (702) 794-3541 W W W. H Y D E P A R K J E W E L E R S . C O M MICHAEL POLLAK

CEO SHEREEN POLLAK

President DA M O N G R O SS

COO

S U S I L E X I E R - A LT M A N

Denver Store Manager

2 6 8 12 14 16 20 24 26 28 32 36 38 40 42 46 50 52 68

Welcome Letter Join the Conversation Hyde Park Events Calendar of Events Accent Advisor Best Bets Red Carpet Ivanka Trump: Modern Luxury Meets Heirloom-Chic People: Hardy Girl Fashion: From the Runways Trends: Take Three Interview: Stephen Webster Book Review: Celebrity Watches Milestones: Ippolita TImepieces: One to Watch Anniversary: Chopard Celebrates 150 Years Spirits: Singular Sensations Perfect Gems Essay: Unexpected Treasures

BRIDAL SECTION 56 THE LOOK What’s Your Bridal Style?

SANDI PERRY

Las Vegas Store Manager NANCY CASEY

Phoenix Store Manager JENNIFER FERKENHOFF

Director of Marketing PUBLISHED BY THE BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER

Stu Nifoussi EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Karen Alberg Grossman C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R

Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR

Jillian Sprague PROJECT MANAGER

Lisa Montemorra CONTRIBUTING EDITOR

Beth Bernstein DESIGNERS

Cynthia Lucero Jean-Nicole Venditti PRODUCTION MANAGER

Peg Eadie DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS

Hugh K. Stanton PRESIDENT AND CEO

Britton Jones

ON THE COVER Model Jessica Prater is wearing Ivanka Trump diamond rock crystal and mother of pearl Pagoda pendant on rock crystal bead necklace; rock crystal, mother of pearl and diamond Bubble earrings, bangles and ring. Photographer: Edwin Santa. Creative Director: JAD Davis. MUA: Amy-Chan. Hairstylist: Faizah Husniyah.

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CHAIRMAN AND COO

Mac Brighton Copyright 2010. Published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT 06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without written permission of the publishers. Volume 8, Issue 2. Printed In The U.S.A.

CO

FEATURES

58 THE RECEPTION Ask the Experts 62 THE STORIES Something Old, Something New 64 THE DRESS Atelier Extraordinaire 66 THE JEWELS Beyond Brilliant



Join the

CONVERSATION HYDEPARKJEWELERS.COM View our unparalleled selection of fine jewelry and timepieces. Shop an expansive collection of loose diamonds and engagement rings.

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TWITTER@HPJEWELS Receive up-to-date information on product and brand news, Hyde Park and community events, and much more buzz-worthy messaging.



EVENTS DENVER HEALTH FOUNDATION HOT ROCKS GRILLER CHALLENGE Denver Health Foundation held their 2nd Annual Hot Rocks Griller Challenge (a fundraiser for men’s health programs at Denver Health) on June 16th at Elway’s Cherry Creek. It was a beautiful Colorado evening and the event was a huge success! Michael and Shereen Pollak of Hyde Park Jewelers served as co-chairs of the event and Hyde Park served as a supportive event partner. The evening involved eleven of Denver’s top chefs grilling sliders and sides in a heated competition and a great dessert station presented by City Bakery. Guests also enjoyed live music by Chris Daniels and the Kings and a Pop-A-Shot competition where guests could play to win his and hers TAG Heuer watches, provided by Hyde Park Jewelers. Athletes including Haven Moses (former Denver Bronco and NFL All-Star), Rod Smith and many others joined the crowd, as well as Governor Bill Ritter and former Governor Bill Owens. The winning chef for the evening was Troy Guard of TAG, and for the second year in a row, the event significantly exceeded fundraising goals. Participating chefs included Robert Bogart of Elway’s Downtown, Jamey Fader of Lola and Big Red F Restaurant Group, Troy Guard of TAG, Jennifer Jasinski of Rioja, Bistro Vendôme and Euclid Hall, Brian Laird of Barolo Grill, Matt Selby and Brandon Biederman of Vesta Dipping Grill and Steuben’s, Goose Sorensen of Solera, Tyler Wiard of Elway’s Cherry Creek, Elise Wiggins of Panzano, Sean Yontz of Tambien and Sketch, Michael Bortz of City Bakery.

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Rock Tradition.

Ivanka Trump is proud to be a founding partner of Girl Up, a United Nations Foundation’s campaign.


EVENTS DIAMONDS IN THE ROUGH CHARITY GOLF OUTING National and local celebrities, current and former professional athletes, and top business and community leaders turned out on July 12th for Hyde Park’s 11th Annual Diamonds in the Rough Charity Golf Tournament. The event kicked off with dinner at Shanahan’s Steakhouse on the eve of the tournament, and the golf event was held the following day at Cherry Creek Country Club. This year’s event raised a record amount for several children’s charities, including YouthBiz, Inc., Judi’s House and The Children’s Hospital.

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HAPPY DIAMONDS COLLECTION


2010

calendar of events DENVER Cherry Creek Shopping Center NOVEMBER 12-13

The Diamond Event DECEMBER 10-11

Holiday Trunk Show Featuring Gucci, Ippolita, Marco Bicego DECEMBER 17-18

Holiday Trunk Show Featuring Ivanka Trump, Temple St. Clair, Paul Morelli

PHOENIX Biltmore Fashion Park DECEMBER 10-11

Designer Event Featuring Ivanka Trump, Soho and Chanel

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JOIN US TO SUPPORT CARE’S WORK TO HELP EMPOWER WOMEN WORLDWIDE.

Appassionata Collection


ACCENTADVISOR

I love pearls but worry that they’re too “mature” for me. How do I modernize a classic?

I want a really special jewelry piece to wear at my wedding, but the neckline of my gown isn’t right for a necklace. Any ideas?

According to Maureen Gribbon Maguire from Mikimoto, many of the new looks in pearls are totally contemporary and modern. For fall/holiday 2010, four of the hottest pearl trends are: long, layered, black, baroque. In fact, baroque pearls are particularly in vogue this season. “You’d think there’d be an abundance of baroque pearls out there since they’re less symmetrical, but in fact, very few exist at our quality level, which requires a high luster. What’s more, ring settings must be custom-made to accommodate the nuances in shape.” Another tip for updating classic pearls: mix them up! Feel free to combine classic with baroque, black with white, large with small, pearl strands with gold or platinum chains or even with gemstone pendants. The key is to express yourself creatively and make the look your own.

IMAGES COURTESY ROBERTO COIN, MIKIMOTO

How about the ultimate bridal accessory: a diamond tiara! For the quintessential princess bride, we recommend Roberto Coin’s 12 carat graduated diamond tiara. All Cento diamonds in the tiara have 100 facets; those a quarter carat and higher come with serial numbers. And the best part? Aside from looking magnificently regal at your wedding, you can send the tiara back to the designer after the event and he’ll rework the piece into a beautiful diamond cuff for everyday wear. Historical note: The tiara trend was allegedly started by Josephine, Napoleon Bonaparte’s first empress. Napoleon then pushed for them to be worn by the ladies of the court as a reflection of his power and taste.

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FallFashions

JOHN HARDY

IVANKA TRUMP

QUEEN BABY

JUDE FRANCES

JOHN HARDY Classic Chain collection 18” multi-row chain necklace with oval stations. QUEEN BABY 3D black CZ pavé crowned heart in sterling silver on onyx beaded bracelet. IVANKA TRUMP Polished oval link bracelet with signature oval pavé diamond clasp in 18K white gold. JUDE FRANCES Zasha collection sterling silver, enamel and diamond cuffs and rings.

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IPPOLITA TEMPLE ST. CLAIR

TACORI

PENNY PREVILLE

ROBERTO COIN

MARCO BICEGO

TEMPLE ST. CLAIR Charm necklace in 18K yellow gold with angel, amulet and blue moonstone charms with diamonds. IPPOLITA 18K yellow gold Rock Candy速 Party ring in Green Tea, with green shell doublets and hand-faceted gemstones in smoky and clear quartz and mother of pearl. PENNY PREVILLE Leaf earrings in 18K yellow gold with diamonds. TACORI 18K 925 burnt orange Madeira citrine and diamonds set in 18K yellow gold with 925 silver sculpted crescent sides. ROBERTO COIN Primavera Spring bracelets in 18K yellow, white and rose gold with and without diamonds. MARCO BICEGO From the Mini Jaipur collection, assorted semi-precious stone bangles in 18K yellow gold.

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Watch Out FOR HIM

BREGUET

PANERAI

BELL & ROSS

TW STEEL

BELL & ROSS Military Ceramic, 42mm, matte khaki ceramic case, black dial with photoluminescent coating to optimize night reading, tinted anti-reflective sapphire crystal, available on rubber or ultra-resistant synthetic fabric strap, automatic mechanical movement. BREGUET Le Reveil du Tsar, 39mm, 18K yellow gold case, silvered gold dial hand-engraved on a rose engine, sapphire case back, brown alligator strap with 18K yellow gold buckle, self-winding movement with second time-zone indicator, alarm time and alarm on/off and power-reserve indicators. PANERAI Luminor 1950 3 Days GMT (PAM00329), 44mm, stainless steel case and bracelet, black dial, automatic mechanical Panerai P. 9001 Calibre movement. TW STEEL Renault Formula One Tech, 45mm, stainless steel case, black tachymeter chronograph dial with Renault Formula One logo, black rubber strap, quartz movement.

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Watch Out FOR HER

OMEGA MICHELE

CARTIER

CHOPARD

CHANEL

MICHELE Deco Noir Diamond, 33 x 46mm, blackened steel case and bracelet, 108 black diamonds, black enamel dial. OMEGA Speedmaster Chronograph, 38mm, 18K red gold and stainless steel case, diamond bezel, sun-brushed gray dial, alligator strap, automatic chronograph movement. CARTIER Captive de Cartier, large model, 35mm, 18K yellow gold and diamond case, silvered guilloché dial with sunburst finish, ‘toile brossée’ fabric strap with 18K yellow gold adjustable deployant buckle, quartz movement. CHOPARD Happy Sport Montre XL, stainless steel case, white dial, 114 diamonds (1.09 ctw), pastel blue sapphire, five moving diamonds (.50ctw), white alligator strap with stainless steel buckle. CHANEL J12 Marine, 42mm, black sand-blasted high-tech ceramic case, steel notched unidirectional rotating bezel with a blue graduated 60minute high-tech ceramic disc, matte rubber strap, self-winding mechanical movement, water-resistant to 300 meters.

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RED CARPET

Glitz and Glamour STARS SPARKLE IN THE JEWELRY TRENDS WE’LL ALL BE STEALING THIS SEASON. BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE

Maria Menounos

Jennifer Lopez and Marc Anthony

W

Robert Downey Jr.

ith all eyes on her daring dress and bold red lips, Maria Menounos knew that her jewelry needed to complement—not compete with—the rest of her look. The Access Hollywood host dazzled in classic stud earrings and simple diamond bangles at the 62nd Annual Primetime Emmys. Jennifer Lopez and Marc Anthony are the first couple of glamour, always chic whether walking the red carpet or walking through the park with twins Max and Emme. True to form, J. Lo took her fabulous watch to the next level by pairing it with a large link diamond bracelet at the Vanity Fair/Gucci party honoring Martin Scorcese. Her linear drop earrings were the prefect balance for her bold shouldered dress, a style that’s everywhere this season. Hubby Marc Anthony wasn’t afraid to mix metals when he wore his wide platinum ring with a classic yellow gold watch. Robert Downey Jr. looked hip and happy for the release of Iron Man 2. Tinted shades coordinated with his of-the-moment plaid tie, and a black on black Jaeger-LeCoultre AMVOX 3 tourbillon GMT was right on trend.

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© 2010 CHANEL®, Inc. J 12®

CHANEL.COM • CHANEL BOUTIQUES • 800.550.0005

MARINE

Black sand-blasted high-tech ceramic watch. Matte rubber strap. Self-winding mechanical movement. 42-hour power reserve. Water-resistant to 300 meters.


IMAGE: JESSICA SIMPSON, H. STERN; ALL OTHERS,- GETTY IMAGE NET

RED CARPET

Jessica Simpson

Clive Owen

Helena Mattsson

Y

ellow gold is hotter than ever! It’s the easiest way to add warmth to your cold weather wardrobe and keep you looking good all winter long. As host of The Price of Beauty and guest judge during the Project Runway finale, Jessica Simpson knows a thing or two about looking good. At the opening of The Casino Club at The Greenbrier, she stood out from the rest of the A-list pack in a stunning gold and rock crystal cuff that made a statement alongside her gold-accented outfit. Clive Owen was dashing as always at Jaeger-LeCoultre’s party during the Venice Film Festival, where he sported the brand’s Gyrotourbillon timepiece. His rugged good looks and traditional style should come in handy next year, when the actor is slated to play Ernest Hemingway in an HBO original movie. Desperate Housewives’ Helena Mattsson wore a sculptural white dress at the Cannes Film Festival, the perfect blank canvas on which to display her moonstone earrings with pavé diamond accents. With flawless red carpet outfits like these, the Swedish actress is poised to explode onto the American scene.

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IVANKA TRUMP

Modern Luxury Meets Heirloom-Chic IVANKA TRUMP DESIGNS JEWELRY FOR TODAY’S SOPHISTICATED WOMAN. vanka Trump’s foray into the world of fine jewelry has shaken up the luxury world by taking a fresh approach to design and positioning. The effortless glamour and modern elegance of each piece has resulted in a “refined yet unpretentiously chic” jewelry collection that “pays homage to the past while embracing the future”—while remaining true to its motto: Rock Tradition. The collection has achieved niche positioning by capturing the attention of stylish women of all ages who appreciate the brand’s ability to youthfully reinvent important legacy jewelry. The brand also stands apart because of Ivanka’s ability to relate to a new generation of younger females who admire and identify with her ideals. The jewelry collection encompasses the heirloom-chic style that is Ivanka’s own. The collection is comprised of approximately 165 pieces in platinum, 18K white, yellow and rose gold, featuring diamonds, onyx, black spinel, agate, pearls and rock crystals. Unique materials such as black diamond beads, rough diamonds, shagreen, leather, velvet and carved onyx add excitement and accessibility to Ivanka’s signature look.

I

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Ivanka recently opened up to Accent, providing an intimate portrait of what drives her inspiration and success. You’re a very busy person. How do you balance your work as executive vice president in the Trump Organization with your work in your own jewelry company? Which one is dominant? Every day’s schedule is different for me. I generally wake up, exercise and read through a copious amount of newspapers. I arrive at the office somewhere between 7:30 and 8:00 a.m.—my brothers and I are always the first ones in. My days are often filled with a large volume of meetings—everything from hotel design to building management to jewelry initiatives to new deal development to marketing strategy and often, filming for The Apprentice. I try to stick to a very strict schedule and I am never late—this is something that I learned from my father. I also try to schedule some time between those meetings to return phone calls and e-mails, as I think that it is very important to respond to direct correspondence in a timely manner. My main focus will continue to be on expanding the Trump brand globally through real estate and hotel ventures. Additionally, I would like to continue to grow my personal brand in a wide variety of luxury lifestyle businesses including the fine jewelry line, a footwear and handbag line (spring 2011), my book (The New York Times bestseller) The Trump Card. What drew you to designing jewelry, and where is the business heading? My mother’s legacy jewelry collection always inspired me. And my love for the classic aesthetic helped propel my vision. I realized the luxury fine jewelry market was missing a fresh, young design approach—that’s where my jewelry line’s vision of “Rock Tradition” plays a vital role—it’s a modern twist on jewelry’s most important classics. I am deeply committed to the success of the retail partners—their success is my success. In October, we launch through Hyde Park in Denver, one of America’s premier fine jewelers. I am thrilled to be partnering up with Hyde Park; their customer is aligned with my own target audience: a smart, sophisticated modern woman who appreciates quality and craftsmanship. What type of audience do you feel your fine jewelry collection appeals to? I wanted to design jewelry for the modern, sophisticated, selfpurchasing woman of today. I wanted women to see the jewelry and be able to buy themselves an important piece of jewelry right away— without asking “him.” My audience is women of all ages, all types— but a woman who knows exactly what she wants and a woman who is not afraid to express herself through jewelry. What inspired your new collection? Which piece is your favorite? My new collection was based on approachable, wearable designs. Designs you can wear from the office and the boardroom to a dinner out with friends, a black tie gala or a beach wedding. My favorite pieces are the signature ovals, the tassels and the rose gold collection. I am very happy that Hyde Park will be carrying all my favorite pieces from the new and the classic collection!

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Ivanka Debuts Charitable Bracelet

Ivanka Trump has designed an exclusive bracelet to benefit the United Nations Foundation’s Girl Up campaign, which raises awareness and funds for several U.N. programs that help in-need adolescent girls, preparing them for the next generation of leadership. The $30 coral silk cord and sterling silver bracelet features both the Girl Up and the Ivanka Fine Jewelry logos, with 100% of the net proceeds benefitting Girl Up. “American girls are the new global entrepreneurs and the faces of philanthropy,” said Trump. “I am proud to be a Girl Up Champion.” Girl Up bracelets are available at Hyde Park’s Denver and Phoenix stores.


PEOPLE

Hardy Girl NOT JUST A PRETTY FACE, SPOKESPERSON ANGELA LINDVALL SHARES JOHN HARDY’S CORE VALUES: SUSTAINING THE PLANET AND EMPOWERING FAMILIES. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

L

ast summer, model and environmental advocate Angela Lindvall visited John Hardy headquarters in Bali for Alter Ego, a lifestyle makeover show on the Planet Green channel. After several days of exploring nature and helping to plant next season’s rice harvest, Lindvall admits that she fell totally in love with Bali, particularly the preservation efforts of John Hardy and the Wear Bamboo, Plant Bamboo project. As it so happened, John Hardy CEO Damien Dernoncourt and their designer Guy Bedarida were equally enamored of Lindvall, whose foundation promotes sustainability to young people and supports a biodynamic farm in New York state. “She’s a mother, she works, she’s very real, the kind of woman who’s my muse,” confides Bedarida. Dernoncourt adds that their new collaboration with Lindvall is a perfect match, since many of Hardy’s jewelry artisans are women with families who work from home. What’s more, a percentage of profits from the collection goes to fighting the exploitation of forests in North America. Notes Lindvall, “This collaboration is so exciting for me: I’ve always thought of my environmental work as totally separate from my fashion career, but now at John Hardy I can finally combine the two!” Left to right: Angela Lindvall at the John Hardy compound; the entirely sustainable structure, built from local bamboo; John Hardy Creative Director Guy Bedarida, Lindvall, her travel companion and John Hardy CEO Damien Dernoncourt

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&

M E R C I E R

&

M E

Photo © Greg Gorman

B A U M E

It’s TIME to make a difference. To learn more about how Baume & Mercier and ANDY GARCIA contribute to programs that improve education for our children, seek to cure cancer and protect the environment, please visit: www.baume-et-mercier.com

CL ASSIMA EXECUTIVES


FASHION

Ethnic Edge

PAUL MORELLI

JOHN HARDY

From the

Runways

INSPIRED ACCESSORIZING FROM FALL 2010 NEW YORK FASHION WEEK. BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE

RUNWAY IMAGES COURTESY OF ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM

PENNY PREVILLE


IPPOLITA

Pretty Modern BELL & ROSS

IVANKA TRUMP


MARCO BICEGO ROBERTO COIN

Go for Gold

AGES COURTESY OF ACCESSORIESDIRECTIONS.COM

IPPOLITA


M.C.L. BY MATTHEW CAMPBELL LAURENZA

Rocker Chic

QUEEN BABY

STEPHEN WEBSTER


TRENDS

Take Three SECURE YOUR STYLE QUOTIENT THIS SEASON WITH THESE THREE MUST-HAVE LOOKS. BY LORRAINE DEPASQUE

T

here’s a reason that women like Nicole Kidman and Penelope Cruz are consistently atop the best-dressed lists after a walk down the red carpet. And it’s a simple one: They make it a point to know what’s new . . . and then they make it their own. It’s an easy formula for fashion success, one we can all apply when choosing our clothes and jewelry. With that in mind, to help you shine this season on whatever “red carpets” your busy life brings you (yes, even the school holiday pageant), here’s a guide to three of the top trends in jewelry. From metals to design to gems, innovation and inspiration are at their core. For rave reviews, be sure to include at least one or two of these as you continue to add to your personal jewelry wardrobe.

MIXED METALS

1

Crystal ball pendants in sterling silver and gold plating on a chain of blackened rhodium over sterling from Stephen Webster’s Astro Ball collection; Aries features black onyx, Capricorn features citrine

Thanks to the ingenuity of contemporary brands, there are style options this year unmatched in recent history. Most of the great metal mixes begin with precious yellow gold, then combine one or more metals, especially sterling silver, palladium, cobalt, titanium, stainless steel and copper. Additionally, some of the new designs frequently have layers and finishes like black rhodium or oxidation, giving the metal’s color even more interest. For those of you who want metal contrast but prefer to stay with the yellow-on-yellow look, some pieces mix the rich hues of high-karat gold (19K through 24K) with paler lower-karat golds. “Most women today have both yellow and white metal jewelry,” says

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IMAGINE THE PLACES THEY WILL GO.

T H E O R I G I N ATO R O F C U LT U R E D P E A R L S . S I N C E 1 8 9 3 .


TRENDS Helena Krodel of the Jewelry Industry Council, “and wearing a mixed-metal piece allows you to wear that one piece with both.” She also notes that blackened and gray-toned metal surfaces are very important right now. Michael O’Connor, style expert and television commentator, suggests, “Use a white and yellow design as your transitional piece to build on a jewelry metal color you don’t have much of already. It can even help you start to build a rose gold jewelry wardrobe if you buy something that combines the pink color with yellow or white, or both.” And layer, layer, layer, reminds O’Connor. “Pair your new piece of metalmix jewelry with your one-tone bangles, necklaces, or rings. Layering creates a signature look, so even if your best friend happens to own a piece of jewelry exactly like yours, it won’t look the same because you’ll put it all together differently. Jewelry style today isn’t about sameness, it’s about individuality.”

TIMELESS NEUTRALS

2

Earrings, ring and necklaces in 18K white gold with white and black diamonds from Penny Preville’s Black Diamond Collection

The versatility of black, white and gray gemstones is unparalleled. Their neutral shades allow them to be worn with everything and often for evening as well as with daywear. And with so many “new neutrals” being used in jewelry collections, the gem varieties offer opportunity for distinction. “Black diamonds are particularly strong,” says Adam Graham, marketing manager of the American Gem Trade Association, “in large primary stones as well as in small accent gems.” Krodel agrees, adding that the black and white diamond combination is a current trend but also a timeless one. She and O’Connor are both seeing increased interest in gray diamonds as well. “In the more affordable ‘gray area,’” says Graham, especially for big center stones like those on chunky gem necklaces, “moonstone and labradorite are strong. You used to see them on the runways in costume only, but now these two stones are in many fine jewelry interpretations, too.”

PERFECTLY IMPERFECT

3

A bangle from the Marco Bicego Jaipur collection in 18K gold with mix of gemstones and an 18K gold ring from the Confetti Oro Collection

A trend that screams individuality is, by its very nature, nonconformist: asymmetry. Crooked metals, irregularly-cut stones, amorphous patterns— these define the newest shape of jewelry. And it’s all intentional. Unlike the deliberate geometrics of Art Deco or curves of Art Nouveau, the new design movement is about jewelry sans shape. Links, for example, might appear uneven and unmatched, stackable bangles or bands bent-looking, patterns within pendants unfamiliar and gem settings off-balance. Unusual cuts are often integral to the new perfectly imperfect designs. Baroque pearls used to be the odd-shaped gems we typically saw. But now designers are flexing their creative muscles and often incorporating threedimensional rough cuts and off-shapen 2-D “slices” of precious and semiprecious gems. Consequently, this free-form jewelry has an artisanal, handcrafted look. Ellen Sideri, CEO of New York City forecasting firm ESP Trendlab explains, “Modern designers are finding new interpretations and new approaches to materials, finishes and proportions. It’s a new way forward that fits the times in which we live.” Finally, since we jewelry lovers can’t help but think ahead to spring, give some thought to opaque and translucent white gems. Established and emerging brands are already showing great cuts of agate, jadeite and milky-white moonstone, particularly in statement rings, big-bead neck pieces and gem-drop earrings. So the question is, will Nicole and Penelope be wearing them? Our guess is yes.

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INTERVIEW

This is your 33rd year in business. When was the moment you knew you’d be able to make a living doing what you love? When I first began my studies at Medway [College of Art] I had only one thing in mind: to make jewelry to the best of my ability. I guess I have always strived to be the best I could be and sometimes that means being a perfectionist. I am involved in every aspect of the business, from design, to point of sale, shooting the ad campaigns and planning our events. It seems like you’re constantly on the go, doing in-store appearances and meeting your loyal customers when you’re not designing. What do you do to relax? When it all gets a little crazy I escape to our house in Kent; it’s the complete antidote to London and my hectic lifestyle there. We have wonderful sea views and a big back garden that I’ve started to get involved with. (I haven’t actually planted anything yet but I’m very good at pulling.) And even though it’s only an hour and 45 minutes away from London, the pace changes so drastically that it forces you to relax with it, which is fantastic—unless you are trying to get something done... With such a successful career, how do you find time to spend with your family? My weekends are strictly family time, so we set off to our house on the cliffs and spend the weekend rock pooling on the beach with my 11-year-old.

Creative Cultivation

STEPHEN WEBSTER IS AN ARTIST IN EVERY SENSE OF THE WORD. BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE

B

rilliant designer, devoted family man and self-described “cheery fellow” Stephen Webster manages to have it all and still remain refreshingly down to earth. Accent recently spoke to the rock star of the jewelry world to learn the secrets behind his amazing juggling act. Describe your creative process, from how an idea comes to you to the finished product. It has always been my passion to cultivate jewelry collections that push all creative boundaries, are high on innovation and are unreservedly cool. My love of music has also really influenced my style; it has been my passion from very early days. All of my work is a reflection of my personality. I am fortunate that, selfishly, I have pursued topics and inspirations from my life’s experiences and translated them into our many collections. Within all of them there is vibrancy. I am a cheery fellow. Did you receive classical art training? I learned to draw in art school and it has always been an essential part of the design process. People love when you can sketch in front of their eyes and then see the whole metamorphosis from a 2-D picture into a 3-D piece of jewelry. I don’t do all of the drawings these days as I have a fantastic design team who works with me.

Which other jewelry designers do you admire? I fell in love with Dragonfly Woman by Rene Lalique. Something about the combination of fantasy, myth, use of materials, craftsmanship and sheer brilliance make this piece my favorite. I’ve always taken inspiration from so many great jewelry designers and traditions; I try to take traditional themes and create a modern twist to them. However I’d say that mostly my inspiration comes from the objects, sights and people around me: the sea, gems, film noir, tattoos, architecture, broken glass, fish bones... American men seem reluctant to experiment with jewelry; many will only wear a watch. Any insights on what a guy can do to add some interest to his look? Over the past few years, men have started feeling much more comfortable wearing jewelry, so I feel it is my obligation to challenge our clients to expect and require more from the jewelry they wear. Not since the Renaissance has men’s jewelry been so interesting. Cufflinks are always a popular choice for gifting but we’ve found more recently that men are gravitating towards the bracelet. In particular, the Dragon Skin Beaded Bracelets (above) look great stacked up or with a watch. What has you excited right now? Getting to work with other artists, photographers and creative people.

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BOOK REVIEW

Ambassadors of Time

VINCENT DAVEAU’S CELEBRITY WATCHES EXPLORES CULTURAL ICONS AND THE WATCH BRANDS THEY LOVE. BY JILLIAN SPRAGUE

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imepieces: a unique invention and one that today we can hardly imagine our lives without. As such they hold a special place in our hearts and history, from politics to film to the sports and adventure arenas. A rare blend of watch design detail and pop culture, Celebrity Watches is an ideal format for introducing collectors and novices alike to these previously untold stories of legendary watches and their wearers. Organized alphabetically by brand, aficionados can turn straight to their preferred watchmaker. More casual readers can flip through the compelling photographs and learn about the watches worn by icons like JFK and Elvis, as well as contemporary celebritites including Leonardo DiCaprio and Rihanna. Film buffs will enjoy reading about the Bvlgari Serpent watch worn by Elizabeth Taylor in

Cleopatra, while watchmaking connoisseurs will be drawn to the story of Fifty Fathoms by Blancpain, water resistant up to 300 meters in its current incarnation. Lovers of history will be fascinated by Omega, whose watches have been the official Olympics timekeepers since the 1932 Los Angeles Games. The Omega chronograph was also the official timepiece of the Apollo program and was the first mechanical watch to land on the moon, worn by Buzz Aldrin in 1969. As author Vincent Daveau thoughtfully points out, “Even though such watches obviously owe some of their charisma to the personalities who have worn them, they are also stars in their own right.” Celebrity Watches artfully and interestingly explores the relationships between both varieties of famous faces.

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Above: Humphrey Bogart as seen in The Maltese Falcon; photograph from Celebrity Watches


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Cento Collection


MILESTONES On the occasion of her tenth year in the fine jewelry business, we ask Ippolita to reflect back and fantasize forward. How do you see the brand evolving over the next 10 years? As an artist, I consider beauty to be an essential part of a woman’s life—it enhances and empowers women, it changes the way we think about ourselves and how others see us. So I see the brand becoming known for offering a kind of effortless adornment and relaxed, natural beauty that women can wear easily, every day.

Where do you see yourself in 10 years? My life is always changing, and I have so many interests that it’s hard to say. Of course, I hope to still be designing jewelry because I love the way it makes women feel; I love that I can have a part in creating joy and selfconfidence. But artwork, cooking and travel are all passions I’d like to continue exploring. And of course I always want more time with my family and friends. Bottom line: I hope I can enjoy as much positive change and personal growth in the next decade as I have in the past 10 years.

How do you see women evolving over the next 10 years? It’s so exciting for me to see how much women have changed just in my lifetime, so I think that where we might be going tomorrow will be rather breathtaking. I’ve found that the most fulfilled women generally have a keen sense of their talents, a passion for seeking growth and new experiences in their lives, and a capacity for ignoring traditional boundaries and limits in ways that let their lives become extraordinary. That passion and personal courage are things I wish for all women.

What have you learned in the past 10 years?

Beauty & Empowerment THE TRANSFORMATIVE POWER OF JEWELRY AS ENVISIONED BY CELEBRATED DESIGNER IPPOLITA. BY KAREN ALBERG GROSSMAN

I’ve learned that life is full of surprises, and that the only way to live genuinely is to embrace these surprises as they happen. My business, for example, has grown to be something bigger and more recognized than I ever dreamed. This has taught me about the value of persistence and a worthy goal, about how to balance highs and lows, and about the power and beauty and potential of women. I try to keep my mind always open to gaining knowledge and seeing possibilities. For those of us who do this, life offers many incredible rewards. Top: Portrait of the artist by Henry Leutwyler, 2010 Bottom: New styles from the fall 2010 collection

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TIMEPIECES

One to Watch

CARTIER ENTERS THE WORLD OF HAUTE HORLOGERIE WITH ITS FINE WATCH MAKING COLLECTION. aithful to its age old tradition of watchmaking excellence, Cartier unveils a series of exceptional watches with its new Fine Watchmaking Collection. In a true reflection of Cartier’s expertise, these watches elegantly combine its legendary creativity in terms of watchmaking aesthetics with its undeniable creativity in terms of movement, requiring the most finely honed skills of Cartier designers, developers and master watchmakers. Last year represented a quantum leap for Cartier. For the very first time, Cartier developed its own watch movements that reflect the brand’s intense and ambitious research into mechanisms. Driven by a rush of creative energy, Cartier continues its grand entrance into the world of haute horlogerie with the presentation of five new fine watchmaking movements and nine new models. This challenge, which calls for technical and aesthetic creativity and exceptional expertise, has resulted in a range of movements that are as rare as they are spectacular: the Astrotourbillon movement, the Geneva Seal skeleton tourbillion, the perpetual calendar, and lastly, the flying tourbillion. Drawing on the skills and excellence of its master watchmakers and designers, this year Cartier once again demonstrates that it is a genuine creator of fine watchmaking marvels.

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ROTONDE DE CARTIER ASTROTOURBILLON

With the Rotonde de Cartier Astrotourbillon watch, Cartier unveils a movement that has been designed and produced entirely by Cartier master watchmakers. This spectacularly creative and highly technical movement is the fruit of five years of development led by the Cartier Manufacture in La Chaux-de-Fonds. This unique tourbillon is comprised of an elongated case, which enables the balance to fully rotate around the dial in one minute, and the arrow shaped balance bridge replaces the second hand. The mesmerizing movement of the balance around the dial combines a modern, state-of-the-art watchmaking movement in an elegant case. Case: 18K white or rose gold Diameter: 47mm Crown: circular-grained, 18K white or rose gold, set with a sapphire cabochon Crystal: sapphire Case back: transparent sapphire crystal Water resistance: 30 meters / 100 feet / 3 bar Strap: black alligator skin (with white gold) or brown alligator skin (with rose gold) Folding clasp: double adjustable, 18K white or rose gold CALIBRE 9451 MC ASTROTOURBILLON Movement: Cartier Manufacture, mechanical with manual winding, Astrotourbillon, individually numbered Diameter: 16 1⁄2’’ (38mm) Thickness: 9.01mm Number of jewels: 23 Number of components: 187 Frequency: 21,600 vibrations / hour Power reserve: approximately 48 hours

ROTONDE DE CARTIER SKELETON FLYING TOURBILLON

An ultra-contemporary Cartier movement in which function is part of the form. An aesthetic revolution expressed by a movement that also acts as a dial. A work of art highlighted by a skeletonised main plate and bridges that create striking Roman numerals. Its graphically stunning design features the numerals XII, III and IX, which frame the carriage of the flying tourbillon at six o’clock. The interplay between solids and voids reveals a movement driven by a skeletonised barrel with a visible spring. It is living artwork enhanced by a range of precious hand-produced finishes: angled bridges, satin-brushed sides and circular-grained wheels. The Cartier calibre 9455 MC is stamped with the Geneva Seal and delivered with an individually numbered certificate of origin, which confirms that the movement meets the criteria of excellence set out by the Office for the Voluntary Inspection of Watches from Geneva. Case: 18K white gold Diameter: 45mm Crown: circular-grained, 18K white gold, set with a sapphire cabochon Crystal: sapphire Case back: transparent sapphire crystal Water resistance: 30 meters / 100 feet / 3 bar Strap: black alligator skin Folding clasp: double adjustable, 18K white gold Numbered edition limited to: 100 timepieces CALIBRE 9455 MC SKELETON FLYING TOURBILLON Movement: Cartier Manufacture, mechanical with manual winding, skeletonised bridges in the form of Roman numerals, flying tourbillion, Geneva Seal, individually numbered Diameter: 15 3⁄8’’ (35.5mm) Thickness: 5.63mm Number of jewels: 19 Number of components: 165 Frequency: 21,600 vibrations / hour Power reserve: 50 hours

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TIMEPIECES

CALIBRE DE CARTIER FLYING TOURBILLON

TORTUE PERPETUAL CALENDAR

The Calibre de Cartier Flying Tourbillon timepiece immediately makes its mark as a watch of character. The XII numeral on the dial is enlarged, making it the powerful aesthetic signature of this new creation from the Cartier Manufacture. Powerful, robust and refined, this version of the Calibre de Cartier watch is equipped with an exceptional flying tourbillon: the calibre 9452 MC with the Geneva Seal. Whereas a traditional tourbillon carriage is carefully protected between the bridges and main plate, the flying tourbillon of the Calibre de Cartier watch has been designed to enhance its visual appeal. It almost seems to float on the bridges, as if hovering weightlessly above the dial, which gives it greater exposure to shocks that could disturb its operation. This aesthetic choice is technically risky and requires the master watchmakers to pay particular attention to the design of the tourbillon carriage to ensure that it benefits from the same level of shock resistance as a traditional tourbillon. Case: 18K white or rose gold Diameter: 45mm Crown: octagonal, 18K white or rose gold, set with a sapphire cabochon Crystal: sapphire Case back: transparent sapphire crystal Water resistance: 30 meters / 100 feet / 3 bar Strap: black alligator skin (with white gold) or brown alligator skin (with rose gold) Folding clasp: double adjustable, 18K white or rose gold CALIBRE 9452 MC FLYING TOURBILLONMovement: Cartier Manufacture, mechanical with manual winding, flying tourbillion, Geneva Seal, individually numbered Diameter: 24.5mm Thickness: 4.5mm (5.45mm including the tourbillion) Number of jewels: 19 Number of components: 142 Frequency: 21,600 vibrations / hour Power reserve: approximately 50 hours

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In this first self-winding perpetual calendar movement to be created by the Manufacture, two characteristics demonstrate the astonishing creativity of Cartier: the optimized legibility of the day and date functions and the originality of the perpetual calendar display. These features, unique to the 9422 MC movement, can be viewed through an impressive open-work dial: the days of the week are indicated by a retrograde hand, the date is shown in large figures around it, and the month and year counter is located at 12 o’clock. A superb achievement in fine watchmaking that runs with exquisitely crafted details and echoes the timeless form of the Tortue watch—one of the great Cartier shaped watches designed in 1912. During the 1920s, it became a legendary example of complication watchmaking by Cartier. Case: 18K white or rose gold Diameter: 45.6mm x 51mm Crown: octagonal, 18K white or rose gold, set with a sapphire cabochon Crystal: mineral Case back: transparent sapphire crystal Water resistance: 30 meters / 100 feet / 3 bar Strap: black alligator skin (with white gold) or brown alligator skin (with rose gold) Folding clasp: double adjustable, 18K white or rose gold CALIBRE 9422 MC PERPETUAL CALENDAR Movement: Cartier Manufacture, mechanical self-winding, perpetual calendar, individually numbered Casing diameter: 11 1⁄2 ’’ (25.6mm) Total diameter: 14 1⁄4’’ (32mm) Thickness: 5.88mm Number of jewels: 33 Number of components: 293 Frequency: 28,800 vibrations / hour Power reserve: approximately 52 hours


FASHIONS: AGAVE Jeans, BRIONI, CANALI, ETON Shirts, Robert GRAHAM, NAT NAST, John SMEDLEY Knits, Robert TALBOTT, ZANELLA, Ermenegildo ZEGNA, from A to Z, the best of Europe and the USA

SHOES: CANALI, ECCO, Donald J. PLINER, Michael TOSCHI

SERVICES: Expert in-house tailoring, special made-to-measure dept.

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ANNIVERSARY

L.U.C Calibre EHG— L.U.C Louis-Ulysse— The Tribute

CHOPARD CELEBRATES 150 YEARS WITH ITS L.U.C. COLLECTION

I

n celebration of its 150th anniversary, Chopard unveils four new proprietary mechanical movements designed, developed, fine-tuned and produced in-house by Chopard. These four new calibers that serve as the core of four new models introduced by Chopard lay a major new milestone, marking the company’s century and a half of existence. This remarkable accomplishment deserves to be highlighted, since the simultaneous presentation of four new in-house made mechanical movements is an extremely rare occurrence in the field of fine watchmaking, due to the substantial amount of effort and energy required to ensure the reliability of these complex mechanisms. Chopard has nonetheless risen to this challenge in order to celebrate its 150th anniversary in magnificent style by releasing four new mechanical movements in 2010: L.U.C EHG, L.U.C 4TQE, L.U.C 1TRM and L.U.C 1.010. This quartet of new developments further broadens the already rich palette of Chopard movements.

L.U.C CALIBRE EHG— L.U.C LOUIS-ULYSSE—THE TRIBUTE This 148-part L.U.C Calibre EHG is a tribute to history, to craftsmanship and to the transmission of knowledge. It was developed as collaboration between Chopard Manufacture and the Geneva Watchmaking School, in order to help the students to create their “school project” marking the culmination of their studies and representing a major landmark in any watchmaking career. This mechanical hand-wound movement oscillates at a cadence of 21,600 vibrations per hour and is endowed with an over 80hour power reserve. Driving the hour and minute hands as well as small seconds at 6 o’clock, L.U.C Calibre EHG is chronometer-certified by the COSC and also bears the prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark.

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L.U.C Calibre 4TQE—L.U.C 150

L.U.C Calibre 1.010—L.U.C 1937

L.U.C Calibre 1TRM—L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon

L.U.C CALIBRE 4TQE—L.U.C 150

blocks,” which absorb the shocks, and held in place by three lever-arms

Associating extreme complexity with superlative finishing, L.U.C Calibre

carved out of the case middle. Designed, developed and produced by

4TQE is composed of 516 parts! This exceptional multi-complication

Chopard Manufacture, L.U.C Calibre 1TRM beats at a cadence of 28, 800

mechanical hand-wound movement houses four barrels ensuring a seven-

vibrations per hour and boasts a 60-hour power reserve. The power-reserve

day power reserve. Chronometer-certified by the COSC and bearing the

display at 12 o’clock is positioned opposite the tourbillon bridge at 6 o’clock,

prestigious Poinçon de Genève quality hallmark, the L.U.C Calibre 4TQE

shaped like a brake disc. Chronometer-certified by the COSC, this 209-part

shows the hours, minutes and small seconds on the tourbillon, perpetual

tourbillon movement drives displays of the hours, minutes, seconds and the

calendar with 24-hour indication, day of the week, date (through an

power reserve.

aperture), month, leap year, power reserve, 24-hour indication, equation of

L.U.C CALIBRE 1.010—L.U.C 1937

time, sunrise and sunset times and moon phases.

L.U.C Calibre 1TRM— L.U.C Engine One Tourbillon After this horological tour de force, and in a more contemporary and sporty vein, Chopard Manufacture has developed and fine-tuned an entirely original mechanical movement. L.U.C Calibre 1TRM—a mechanical handwound movement—is distinguished by an innovative design inspired by the automotive industry. In reference to the world of fine cars, the “engine block” featuring a reamed and sloping plate is engraved with the name “Chopard.” L.U.C Calibre 1TRM is mounted on shock-absorbing “silent

Last but not least, L.U.C Calibre 1.010 represents a significant development feat linked to its suitability to industrial-scale production. Accurate, reliable, efficient and designed for easy assembly, this mechanical self-winding movement meets the most demanding market standards of performance, namely those of the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) and the Chronofiable tests. Representing the industrial wing of Chopard Manufacture and incorporating 207 parts, L.U.C Calibre 1.010 is distinguished by its crown at 4 o’clock, along with a 60-hour power reserve, 31 rubies and a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. Côtes de Genève and a L.U.C engraving set the finishing touches to this promising new movement.

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what is your vision of success?

Call EKS&H business consulting today to see how we can help you achieve your dream by asking the hard questions, giving you honest answers and providing actionable solutions.

For more information call A.J. Steger or Kent McSparran at 303-740-9400

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SPIRITS

Singular Sensations

ONE-OF-A-KIND CUSTOM COCKTAILS ADD A CONTEMPORARY GARNISH TO YOUR WEDDING OR COMPANY EVENT. BY ROBERT HAYNES-PETERSON

‘‘I

always knew I wanted to do beer, wine and a signature drink at my wedding,” says editor Kim Schworm Acosta, who married in 2003 and asked a favorite bartender to help craft the Schcosta, a drink melding the last names of the bride and groom. “We were just starting to hear about signature cocktails in bars, and the idea of personalizing your wedding was gaining in popularity.” Event planners now hand-pick linens and lighting, so why not take the drink menu beyond Cosmos and vodka tonics? With the Cocktail Revolution in full swing and highly trained bar staff available in almost every city, offering up a bespoke mixed drink has never been easier. The corporate world has caught on, too. At this year’s James Beard Food Awards in Manhattan, classic cocktail Godmother Audrey Saunders (owner of NYC’s vaunted Pegu Club) served a hyperrefreshing Cucumber-Mint Creole featuring Plymouth gin, Research your mixologist. Just as Linie aquavit, dry sack sherry, you avoid Costco flower lemon juice, cucumber and arrangements, you don’t want Tommy mint. Hush Cocktail’s Erinfrom the corner bar crafting your Forever Drink (unless you really like Elizabeth Williams recently Tommy). crafted a signature cocktail for Think about ingredients. Decide a large furniture company to what’s important to you: A specific premium alcohol? Coordinating with serve at their corporate events event colors? An exotic fruit from (they then bought the rights your honeymoon destination? to the recipe and name). U.K. Cater to your guests. Whatever you’re planning, keep the alcohol Bartender of the Year (2004) content low, and provide a mocktail Charlotte Voisey even spritzes version for teetotalers and kids. logos on top of foamy drinks Consider the cost. “Short” drinks (with two or three ingredients) will be with edible coloring. less pricey and easier to make than In this era of carefully 10-ingredient “Long” drinks. “If I have crafted, multi-ingredient to find a special starfruit from Zimbabwe, obviously that’s going to cocktails, working with the add to the cost,” says Williams. right consultant is key. If done well, local ingredients and obscure liqueurs can come together to add a unique twist to your favorite mojito riff, or to create an altogether new cocktail. Your custom consultant is often also your bartender, focused on presenting a few custom cocktails, not servicing a more generic open bar. “Especially with high-end cocktails where precision is key, the slightest imperfection can really mess things up,” says Williams. “So it’s important for us to be really hands-on at the event.” The extra touch tends to wow attendees. At corporate events, Williams notes, “the concept really gets the conversation going.” At Schworm Acosta’s wedding the drink was so well received that her caterer had to sidle up to the bride during the pre-reception cocktail hour for an emergency pow-wow: they were out of the signature cocktail.

British celebrity bartender Charlotte Voisey can help you design signature and custom event drinks like her “Elit and Masterful” cocktail, a blend of Elit by Stoli, ginger-infused simple syrup, fresh lemon juice and champagne

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IMAGE COURTESY OF CHARLOTTE VOISEY

Tips for Crafting a Custom Cocktail


meditation bells

PA U L M O R E L L I

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B EA UTY: M A UR I C E TA N N EN B A UM


PerfectGems

EXPLORE THE LITTLE LUXURIES THE WORLD HAS TO OFFER. BY DONALD CHARLES RICHARDSON

Vicenza, Italy is a beautiful city renowned for the remarkable Renaissance architecture of Andrea Palladio. Between excursions to view his work, check out these charming places. The Hotel Villa Michelangelo is an 18th century villa set in a lush garden of centuries-old trees and an olive grove (the hotel makes its own oil).

Settle on the charming terrace with a glass of Prosecco and strawberries. The views, wine and service are perfect. For dinner, head to La Locanda di Piero where you’re assured of a warm welcome, an impressive wine list and a superb meal. After eating, head to Pasticceria Sorarù, right off the main square, Piazza dei Signori. A gathering place for Italian families, it’s famous for plum cake and coffee. Take a table outside and watch the passing scene. Next, near the Pusterla bridge, visit Gelateria Brustolon. Opened in 1927 and still owned by the same family, this is the gelato of your dreams. Made with only fresh local ingredients, the flavors are created seasonally and are truly sensational. Indulge without guilt—you’ll walk off the calories sightseeing.

NOBLESSE OBLIGE There are guided tours of the Newport mansions almost every day. But to get away from the crowds and truly experience the Gilded Age, spend a weekend at Vanderbilt Hall. Built by Alfred G. Vanderbilt in 1909 and recently renovated by art collector Peter de Savary, Vanderbilt Hall is now a 33-suite luxury hotel and private members club in the heart of historic Newport. You can splash in the indoor and outdoor pools, play a round in Alfred’s Snooker Room and indulge in the Vanderbilt Spa. Or devote some time to viewing the de Savarys’ collection of American Illustration Art, the third largest in the country. Notably, it includes “Jeanie with the Light Brown Hair” by Howard Chandler Christy, which has never before been shown in public. As you enjoy a leisurely sail around Narragansett Bay on the hotel’s 60-foot private motor yacht, it’s polite to nod to the tourists.

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BOTTOM: VANDERBILT HALL; TOP AND CENTER: THE CONSORTIUM FOR TOURISM PROMOTION “VICENZA È”

SAVOR THE SIGHTS


TAKE COVER When it’s time to snuggle down for the winter, here are two choices sure to keep you cozy. Mike Ragan Home imports some of the most luxurious pure fourply cashmere blankets in the world from the Himalayas in Nepal. They’re bordered in silk charmeuse and can be color customized to your specifications. Lightweight (5 pounds and under), these blankets are the ultimate in softness and will last for years. $700 to $1200. The shell of the DeWoolfson Silk Covered Down comforter is made from select long-staple Egyptian cotton and silk yarn from China, then filled to order with a rare handselect Hungarian white goose down. Available in five weights ranging from Florida Light to Canadian Winter. $865 to $1145.

BOTTOM: BRIONI; TOP: MIKE RAGAN HOME

HANDIN LOVE Gloves are one of this season’s most stylish accoutrements, and Brioni has created a collection that will give you the upper hand. For full coverage, try opera length (70 cm) in brown Nappa leather ($895) or fuchsia deerskin ($1,995). To look like you just stepped off the runway, slip on a long suede pair made of Ovis Aries (sheep suede), available for $850 in grape, blueberry, marine blue, dusty rose or mustard. And just imagine how exciting a diamond bracelet will look draped over them...

HORSES REIN On his Casa Lusitana farms in Massachusetts and Florida, USDF gold medalist Jorge Gabriel offers his classically trained Lusitano horses to dressage riders and breeders throughout the U.S., and personally coaches riders from beginner to grand prix levels. The farms embody the culture, classical training traditions and horses of his Portuguese homeland. Guests can watch as the horses are trained, and the annual Festa Lusitana is a free event equestrian aficionados shouldn't miss.

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WEDDINGS A SPECIAL BRIDAL SECTION FROM ACCENT MAGAZINE

WWW.WARWICKBROWN.COM

TheBigDay


THE LOOK

BY BETH BERNSTEIN

What’s Your Bridal Style? DISCOVER THE DETAILS OF YOUR ULTIMATE WEDDING DAY

To help simplify your search for the perfect wedding look, we have created this guide for two diversely different bridal styles: The Romantic and The Minimalist. Have some fun and see which options are most suited to you. THE ROMANTIC BRIDE PREFERS VOWS & VENUES • A European destination wedding • Marrying at a quaint country inn or bed and breakfast • Writing your own vows and expressing your love in front of a small gathering of family and friends YOUR GOWN • Fitted with a French embroidered lace bodice • A tulle or organdy A-line skirted style • Muted dusty rose, vintage ecru or antique blue for the dress color or detail work YOUR ENGAGEMENT RING • An estate ring with engraving and/or filigree work • A natural color diamond in yellow or champagne • A micro pavé setting with a cushion or rose cut center stone YOUR WEDDING BAND

• Two thin eternity bands worn as guard rings • A swirl or scroll motif band • Floral motifs that blossom around your finger YOUR WEDDING JEWELRY • A wide cuff bracelet featuring an airyVenetian or French lace pattern • Mini chandelier earrings with lots of movement and swing • A bib, choker or antique style fringe necklace YOUR BOUQUET

• Peonies • Roses with sprays of small tonal varieties • Lilacs YOUR STYLE IDOLS

• Kate Hudson • Jennifer Garner • Sarah Jessica Parker YOUR FAVORITE DATE NIGHT MOVIES • Period pieces, like An Ideal Husband orWuthering Heights • Any film based on a Jane Austen novel • Anything written or directed by Nora Ephron

B R I D A L

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S E C T I O N


THE MINIMALIST BRIDE PREFERS VOWS & VENUES • Eloping and then spending a week together somewhere no one can find you • An informal wedding with your closest family and friends • A reception at the penthouse suite or rooftop terrace of your favorite modern boutique hotel YOUR GOWN • A long narrow column in silk satin • A sophisticated, cutaway shoulder, knee-length shift dress • A one shoulder sheath gown YOUR ENGAGEMENT RING • An Asscher or emerald cut diamond with a thin outline of pavé • A brilliant cut diamond with micro pavé band • A simple platinum tension set with brilliant or princess cut center stone YOUR WEDDING BAND • Side engraved rounded platinum band • An eternity band with shared prong setting • Wide high karat gold band with scattered flat cut diamonds YOUR WEDDING JEWELRY • Linear earrings with fluidity • Diamond drops • A stack of diamond bangles YOUR BOUQUET • Calla Lilies • Orchids • A tight arrangement of roses with no other blooms YOUR STYLE IDOLS • Sandra Bullock • Kate Beckinsale • Jennifer Aniston YOUR FAVORITE DATE NIGHT MOVIES • Romantic comedies from the 1940s • Movies with memorable lines, like Bull Durham • To Catch a Thief

B R I D A L

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S E C T I O N


THE RECEPTION

BY JACQUELIN CARNEGIE

Ask the Experts HOW TO THROW THE BEST BASH

any women dream about their wedding day from childhood. You may want to make those fairytale reveries come true, or maybe you now have your sights set on throwing a thoroughly modern event. The good news is—today anything goes! Some celebrities (and regular gals too) are still opting for traditional weddings, and there’s nothing wrong with that. But now there are options. Your dress no longer has to be white, your cake doesn’t need to be tiered and your bridesmaids don’t have to show up in colorcoordinated ensembles. Today, there’s no right or wrong wedding etiquette. It all depends on your personal style. B R I D A L

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GETTING STARTED You may already have a concept for the big day or just a notion that it should be something spectacular. But whether your guest list includes hundreds or simply your closest friends and family, the key to a memorable wedding reception is uniqueness. Anything that defines you—your background, relationship or passions—can be used as a theme. Your favorite colors, food and music should all be incorporated into the plan for this special day. Preston Bailey, renowned floral and event designer and author of Preston Bailey’s FantasyWeddings, advises: “This is the one day when visions transform S E C T I O N

PHOTO BY CORINA RAZNIKOV, SYLVIA WEINSTOCK’S SENSATIONAL CAKES

TINY TREASURES Beautiful individual cakes can be served for dessert or given out as wedding favors at the end of the night



PHOTO BY CHARLES & JENNIFER MARING, THE PARTY PLANNER

PHOTO BY JOHN LABBÉ, PRESTON BAILEY’S FANTASY WEDDINGS

THE RECEPTION

WINTER WONDERLAND Preston Bailey decorated white birch trees with white flowers and petals to look like snow, while tiny votive candles added twinkling “starlight”

GARDEN PARTY Intimate and casual table settings can be just as stunning

into reality. Ideas vary from person to person, so no wedding concept is ‘wrong.’” Bailey has created imaginative weddings for such celebrity brides as Ivanka Trump, Catherine Zeta-Jones and Liza Minnelli. David Tutera, host of WE TV’s My Fair Wedding, whose clients include Jennifer Lopez, Elton John, Barbara Walters and Tommy Hilfiger, counsels: “Invoke the sense of wonder you felt as a child with the cultivated pleasures of the grown-up world. This blend is what makes a wedding so sublime.”

Whatever the size of the fortune at your disposal, wedding planners agree that it’s not the extravagance of the affair, but creating an event with your special style that makes it memorable.

SETTING THE STAGE Some brides know exactly what they want while others are unsure where to begin. Bailey recommends thinking about your taste: Your favorite accommodations. (French château or modern loft?) The artists you love.

TRUMP THIS When Donald Trump married Slovenian supermodel Melania Knauss at his Mar-a-Lago estate in Palm Beach, Florida, the color scheme was white and gold. Bailey adorned the ballroom with thousands of white roses, hydrangea, orchids, gardenias and peonies. At the reception, guests sat at long, white brocade and lace-covered tables decorated with huge candelabras. The five-foot-high cake was ornamented with white icing roses. And entertainment included serenades from Tony Bennett, Paul Anka and Billy Joel. When his daughter Ivanka, a jewelry designer and entrepreneur in her own right, married media and real estate mogul Jared Kushner at the Trump National Golf Course in Bedminster, New Jersey, she wanted an all-white wedding. For the ceremony, Bailey fashioned an oversized chuppah of white roses and hydrangea, creating an airy, romantic canopy for the wedding vows. At the reception, the tables were adorned with ivory roses and winter white orchids, flickering candles and crystal ornaments.

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PHOTO BY JOHN LABBÉ, SYLVIA WEINSTOCK’S SENSATIONAL CAKES

(Degas or Rothko?) The colors and styles you select in fashion and furnishings. (Vibrant tones or more subtle hues? Trendy or classic?) Tutera advises brides to “give your wedding a plot. Pick a color scheme and a theme and keep it consistent throughout.” This applies to flowers, lighting, linens and glassware. Celebrity wedding planner Mindy Weiss says, “Your wedding is highlighted by unexpected details of color. Red is hot right now—and so is ‘green.’ People are very conscious about the environment and are selecting a wedding décor that can be recycled and repurposed.” But rather than following celebrity or socialite trends, stick to what you like best—be true to your own taste. And don’t forget your partner! Most grooms defer to their intended, but as Tutera points out, “You’re about to share a life together. Both of you should be reflected in the moment that union begins.”

CHOOSING THE FOOD AND CAKE There’s nothing wrong with offering the tried-and-true chicken, fish or beef. But many wedding planners recommend serving your favorite cuisine, whether it’s Chinese, Mexican or Thai. For a beachfront or backyard wedding, picnic foods are a perfect fit. Once, everyone had a tiered white wedding cake with butter cream frosting and a plastic bride and groom topper. Today, cakes are as unique as each couple. For a truly distinctive design, Sylvia Weinstock, cake maker par excellence and author of Sylvia Weinstock’s Sensational Cakes, recommends using something personal for inspiration, like the wedding dress embroidery or the flowers in the bridal bouquet. “The best ideas come from your life— when you first fell in love, where you’ve traveled, what you collect.” Another popular trend is to have several smaller cakes. This gives the bride a chance to serve different flavors or even to present each guest with a miniature individual cake. Groom’s cakes, a Southern tradition, have now caught on. Groom’s cakes are smaller and reference the lucky guy’s favorite hobby. The cake could be his yacht in miniature, his sports car or a football-shaped cake complete with the logo of his beloved team. If you don’t like cake, feel free to serve your favorite dessert, even if it’s ice cream and cookies!

A REAL KEEPER This SylviaWeinstock wedding cake reflects the bride’s antique pewter collection

SELECTING THE FLOWERS Traditionally, bridal flowers were white to symbolize purity and fidelity— blooms like lily of the valley and white roses were the go-to. But now, celebrity florists like Mark Held of Mark’s Garden recommend selecting flowers (and a color scheme) based on what’s in season. After the reception, Weiss suggests donating the floral arrangements to hospitals and senior centers. Any potted trees can be given to an environmental non-profit, such as Tree People, for replanting.

HIRING A WEDDING PLANNER If you are a great organizer, have boundless energy and don’t mind coordinating all the details, you’ll be fine on your own. Just pick up a copy of Mindy Weiss’ The Wedding Book for extra inspiration. However, a wedding planner can give you great ideas and run the show, allowing you to relax and enjoy your engagement. “Select someone who inspires confidence,” Bailey advises. No matter what kind of wedding you plan, just remember, it’s an occasion meant to delight—so enjoy yourself!

ROMANTIC INTERLUDE David Tutera set a romantic table for two on the lake for the bride and groom B R I D A L

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THE STORIES

BY LISA MONTEMORRA MENGHI

Something Old, Something New

fter dating for about a year, Ed and I both knew that this was it. I started casually looking at engagement rings and learning about the “4 C’s.” I began admiring my friends’ rings and pausing to window shop whenever I passed a jewelry store. But with so many different cuts and designs, I was quickly confused. Then one day, after Ed and I had visited his family and were on the train home, he gave me a huge grin and pulled a small, chocolate colored ring box out of his pocket. Apparently, his father had slyly taken him aside and offered Ed his great grandmother’s engagement ring to give to me upon proposing. While overjoyed that his family thought so highly of me to offer this precious heirloom, I was also worried that I might not like it and afraid of insulting them. Luckily, when the box opened, I instantly fell in love with what I saw. His great grandmother’s ring is a beautiful Art Deco style yellow gold band, with a round diamond center stone, a surround of smaller diamonds and lots of detail work. I stared at it for a few seconds with tears in my eyes, feeling abundantly blessed. As Ed and I talked more, we decided that as much as we both loved the ring, we needed to update it somehow. We went to a family jeweler we trusted, who said that if we wanted to change the setting, it would be challenging to find something suitable to hold the center diamond since it was an old miner’s cut. I scoured the showcases for settings I liked, but B R I D A L

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kept choosing ones similar to what we already had. Finally our jeweler asked the obvious question: Why were we bothering to change the ring if I already had the design I loved? This struck a chord; maybe the ring was fine the way it was. Not only was it beautiful, but within its small circle it held 90 years of love and family memories. I stood inside the jewelry store feeling way too overwhelmed to make a decision. I didn’t want to destroy history by changing the ring, but I wasn’t sure that I could ever think of it as “mine” if we didn’t alter it. This was all too much to handle, so I finally did what any girl in my situation would do: I went next door to Starbucks to ponder my fate over a latte. I was leaning toward changing the ring, but I was also mourning the idea of ruining a family heirloom. Back in the store, our jeweler offered a solution. She took two intricate diamond bands out of the case and slipped my ring between them. It fit perfectly, like it was meant to be. It was as if Ed’s great grandmother was telling us that we should keep this ring intact, that you don’t need to change the past in order to build a future. I like to think that the ring I now wear on my left hand was destined to be mine. To me, it embodies not only the spirit of Ed’s great grandmother, but also all that is good, pure and whole with our relationship.When I look down at it, I’m reminded of many years of love, life and family. More than that, I see how the past and the future fuse together to create something totally unique and special. S E C T I O N

ILLUSTRATION BY MICHAEL WITTE

FEW DECISIONS ARE AS MEANINGFUL AS CHOOSING A RING


Fall in love.


THE DRESS

BY SHIRA LEVINE

Atelier Extraordinaire MARK INGRAM ON THE MOST IMPORTANT DRESS YOU’LL EVER WEAR

he blushing bride look is not Mark Ingram’s forte. The high fashion bridal atelier is more about couture with a touch of glam rock when it comes to the gowns he offers his clients. His well-edited yet low-key shop is ten years old and replete with those recognizable first names: Vera, Oscar and Monique. That’s Wang, de la Renta and Lhuillier if you’ve been living under your grandma’s old bridal frock. The brides-to-be who come to the nurturing Ingram (with 30 years in the bridal biz under his belt) are of a special and most stylish set. These fashion-forward women are looking for something a little out of the ordinary. They recognize that beading is rather yesteryear, that it’s the B R I D A L

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modestly daring fabrics and textures that bring out the inner avant-garde. Here, Accent shares Ingram’s advice on bridal style.

If beading is out, what are the trends this season? High fashion designers have been using less beading and more lace. The beaded satin dress is sort of old-fashioned. Textural techniques keep a dress looking contemporary. The biggest trend right now is what I call fabric manipulation. It’s about using fabrics in different and unexpected ways. Also, I see a lot of volume, like fuller ball gown shapes, after so many seasons of the mermaid skirt. These aren’t in satin, but in S E C T I O N


lightweight materials like tulle, chiffon, organza and taffeta that create volume without heaviness. It’s about more natural elements—tonal textures as opposed to sparkles. Jenna Bush wore an Oscar de la Renta V-neck gown that was embroidered with raffia flowers and matte beads.

What are your rules for jewelry? There are four points that you can accent with wedding jewelry: head, ears, neck and wrists. Do no more than two of those at any one time. Don’t do a tiara, earrings and a necklace. It’s too much. Figure out what works best proportionately and don’t overdo it.

How about a piece of family jewelry? Bring the piece with you when you’re shopping and build your look around it. There are many different neckline and necklace shapes, so you want to try everything on together to know what works.

How do you guide a bride who loves a dress that just doesn’t work for her? I believe in indulging a bride. It’s her once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to try on the kind of dress she has always dreamed of. Smart sales people want her to look her best and will slowly begin to educate her as to what works on her body. This is a very sensitive time for girls. Many of them bring a lot of baggage to their appointments and I have to figure it all out. I talk to them and strip things down to the bare bone.

What is the rule for wearing bright white? White is not really an option in my store. Bright white is just not possible

in a natural fiber. Pure cotton, silk satin, organzas and taffetas start from a light cream and go to latte and blush. I call them the “face powder colors.” Think about what works best with your skin tone. Oscar recently showed beautiful mint greens, soft blues and pinks. Vera used charcoal and lilac. Some girls are even doing black as an accent, for more of that rockstar look. Pink wore a Monique Lhuillier dress with a black sash.

Which famous woman do you think wore the best gown to her wedding? For me, Grace Kelly’s dress is still the most beautiful wedding dress ever. It’s classic. A lot of celebrities don’t actually blow me away with their wedding gowns. Many of them don’t have great personal style, or what it takes to carry off what those old film stars were able to do.

How do you ensure that the wedding gown and bridesmaid dresses work together? Keep your bridesmaids in the opposite silhouette. If you’re wearing a ball gown, their dresses should be narrow and closer to the body, so the focus is on you at your wedding. Also choose opposite fabrics and different necklines. A distressed, tulle ball gown calls for bridesmaid dresses in satin, taffeta, or chiffon.

What do you say to a bride who has a mother and future mother-in-law in the picture? They both are really important and should be included in the process of selecting the wedding gown… only if the bride can handle it. If not, try inviting them for the fitting instead.

INGRAM’S TOP 5 TIPS 1. Have the wedding date, season, location and time set in stone before shopping for a gown, and share all the details with your bridal shop. You don’t need to have an exact dress style in mind, but pictures can help your salon know how you want to express yourself on your wedding day.

2. Have a realistic budget and stick to it. The rule is typically to allot 10 percent of the total wedding budget to the gown. There are plenty of beautiful dresses within your price range. Just be true to yourself so you’re not disappointed. (Ingram offers dresses from $5,000 to $23,000.)

3. Choose a reputable bridal salon by researching and asking for referrals from friends and family. Make sure the salon has been in business a while and is open during the hours that are convenient for you. Choose a place close to home since you’ll be going back a few times for fittings. (Near your office is good so you can slip out of work during lunch hour for a fitting.) Inquire about the lines and price points in advance to see if the kind of dress you want is offered.

4. Don’t bring all your bridesmaids, your mother and your mother-in-law when you go dress shopping. Limit it to two trusted people who mean the most to you, who support you mentally and want you in a good place. Buying a dress can be a very emotional and heated time.

5. Don’t come in with an attitude. We’re going to do our best to find you the dress of your dreams.

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THE JEWELS

BY KARYN D. COLLINS

Beyond Brilliant ROBERTO COIN ACHIEVES PERFECTION WITH HIS CENTO DIAMOND

or generations, the standard for the popular brilliant cut diamond has been the same: a 58-facet cut producing a spectacular brilliance that has made it the most popular seller in diamond jewelry. But jeweler Roberto Coin, never one to settle for the standard, has gone the industry one better—or should we say 100 better. His Cento diamond is a brilliant cut that features a 100-facet cut as well as a flower shaped pattern inside the diamond. The result, Coin says, is a dream come true for him. “The goal was to obtain a diamond cut that had never been done before. It seemed almost impossible to achieve,” he says. Coin couldn’t explain why he even embarked on such a mission in the first place. But the search for this jeweler’s version of the impossible dream consumed him and his team. The quest took them more than two years and cost a whopping $4 million in research and development costs. Why so much time and such a high price tag? “It was an extremely difficult project,” he B R I D A L

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says. “Cento Diamonds can be cut only by master cutters. To obtain a perfectly cut, well proportioned diamond, each [individual] facet has to be perfect. When you cut a Cento Diamond and you make one error, the entire diamond needs to be re-cut and you have an automatic loss of value of five to ten percent. Plus we created a flower pattern inside each diamond, with each facet reflecting the best light possible.” Each Cento Diamond is cut from individually hand-selected rough stones of the highest quality. According to Coin, the majority of Cento Diamonds are from H_SI to D_IF. Developing the stone was only part of the challenge, though. Coin said he also wanted the collection to feature unique settings. “They had to be special to hold such special diamonds,” he said. With more than two years of trial and error, the journey was frustrating at times. But the result has been more than worth it for Coin. The Cento collection debuted in 2003 and is sold exclusively through authorized Roberto Coin retailers. Why did he aim for 100 facets? Coin says it’s all about defining perfection. “It had to be 100 facets since 100 is the perfect number,” he said. “One hundred percent is the maximum.”

S E C T I O N


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ESSAY

Unexpected Treasures

G

rowing up, I was never very close with my grandmother. She was strict, corrected my speech and even mailed my thank you notes back to me with edit marks in red pen. But what did I expect? She was a grade school teacher with traditional values and wanted to teach my brother and me the proper way to do things. When she eventually got sick, I’d visit her every week. It was during those visits that we started getting to know each other and began forming an adult relationship. I loved hearing stories about how she and my grandfather met. She was friends with his sister and he was in the service, stationed in Saudi Arabia. His sister asked her to write to him, and they soon became pen pals, ultimately falling in love through their letters. After they got married, she went with him overseas and they took frequent trips, exploring the world together. Through her stories and my own, we learned that we shared much in common: our love for romance, art and fashion, an appreciation of the unique. During her final days, I spent a lot of my time at her bedside. I cherish

those moments with all my heart. When she died, I helped my mom clean out her apartment where we found some incredible treasures. Who knew she had collected such beautiful things? A year later, I celebrated my 25th birthday in Kennebunkport, Maine with my family. My grandparents had retired there, and we spent many childhood summers at their house on the beach. On the night of my birthday, my mom handed me a small box. She said that because it was my 25th, she wanted me to have something with special meaning. I opened the box, which contained a sterling silver cuff bracelet with my grandmother’s initials engraved on it. Originally, the cuff had been my grandmother’s sterling silver napkin ring. My mother took it to a dozen jewelers before finding one who agreed to contort the delicate piece into a bracelet. The cuff is now my favorite piece of jewelry—interesting and expressive, just like her. I wear it with love and pride in remembrance of Gloria, my strong and kindhearted grandmother, who I wish I’d gotten to know sooner.

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ILLUSTRATION BY MICHAEL WITTE

KEEP MEMORIES ALIVE WITH JEWELRY HEIRLOOMS. BY ELISE DIAMANTINI


HERITAGE COLLECTION INSTRUMENT BR 03 42 mm VINTAGE BR 126 41 mm Natural Leather strap

Information: Bell & Ross Inc. +1.888.307.7887 . information@bellrossusa.com . www.bellross.com



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