A C C E N T / T H E M A G A Z I N E O F L I F E ’ S C E L E B R AT I O N S ♦S P R I N G / S U M M E R 2 0 1 0
D E N V E R
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OYSTER PERPETUAL SUBMARINER DATE IN 18 KT WHITE GOLD
OFFICIAL ROLEX JEWELER ROLEX
OYSTER PERPETUAL AND SUBMARINER ARE TRADEMARKS.
HYDE PARK JEWELERS
SPRING/SUMMER 2010
DENVER
Cherry Creek Shopping Center 3000 E. 1st Ave. Denver, CO 80206 Phone (303) 333-4446 PHOENIX
Biltmore Fashion Park 2442 E. Camelback Rd. Phoenix, AZ 85016 Phone (602) 667-3541 LAS VEGAS
Forum Shops 3500 Las Vegas Blvd. South Las Vegas, NV 89109 Phone (702) 794-3541 W W W. H Y D E PA R K J E W E L E R S . C O M MICHAEL POLLAK
CEO SHEREEN POLLAK
President DAMON GROSS
COO
S U S I L E X I E R - A LT M A N
Denver Store Manager S A N D I P E R RY
Las Vegas Store Manager NANCY CASEY
Phoenix Store Manager JENNIFER FERKENHOFF
Director of Marketing PUBLISHED BY THE BUSINESS JOURNALS FASHION GROUP PUBLISHER
Stu Nifoussi EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
Karen Alberg Grossman C R E AT I V E D I R E C T O R
25
Hans Gschliesser MANAGING EDITOR
Jillian Sprague PROJECT MANAGER CONTRIBUTING EDITOR
Beth Bernstein DESIGNERS
FEATURES
Cynthia Lucero Jean-Nicole Venditti
2 Welcome Letter
34 Bridal Trends: Wedding Day Wow
DIRECTOR OF PRODUCTION
6 Hyde Park Events
36 Red Carpet: Color and Light
Fran Salamon
10 Calendar of Events
40 Style Notes: Making a Statement
Peg Eadie
12 Spring Flair
44 Designer Profile: Temple St. Clair
DIRECTOR OF PREPRESS
14 Watch Out: For Him & For Her
48 Men’s Trends: Old School Style
18 Bridal: Wedding Bells are Ringing
52 Crossword: Defining Style
PRODUCTION MANAGER
Hugh K. Stanton PRESIDENT AND CEO
Britton Jones CHAIRMAN AND COO
20 Accent Advisor
Mac Brighton
24 Designer Profile: Roberto Coin
Copyright 2010. Published by Business Journals, Inc, P.O. Box 5550, Norwalk, CT
26 Fashion: From the Runways
06856, 203-853-6015 • Fax: 203-852-8175; Advertising Office: 1384 Broadway, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10018, 212-686-4412 • Fax: 212-686-6821; ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. The publishers accept no responsibilities for advertisers claims, unsolicited manuscripts, transparencies or other materials. No part of this magazine may be reproduced without
30 Designer Interview: Stephen Webster
written permission of the publishers. Volume 8, Issue 1. Printed In The U.S.A.
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COVER IMAGE COURTESY OF DENVER MAGAZINE
Lisa Montemorra
Welcome
Dear Friends, Spring is in the air, instilling new life into everything that surrounds us. As the season turns, I find myself feeling refreshed and ready to share in new beginnings. At Hyde Park, we are fortunate enough to be able to share in our clients’ life celebrations, including starting their new life together. Whether you’re walking down the aisle or celebrating a milestone anniversary, Hyde Park’s collection of engagement, wedding, and anniversary rings offers a wide range of styles and price points. As we approach a new gift-giving season—Mother’s Day, Father’s Day, Graduation—we are reminded of the important people in our lives. The best gifts are those that can be enjoyed for years to come and eventually passed along to future generations. This season, I encourage you to start your own family tradition. A stunning piece of jewelry or a fine Swiss timepiece makes a great heirloom. We are overwhelmed with the positive response to the new collections that we introduced last fall and are committed to continuing to showcase the most dynamic selection of designer collections. Our demanding standards require that each collection demonstrate not only excellence in design, but also quality craftsmanship, ethical sourcing and after-sales customer service. At Hyde Park, we are embracing the sense of newness that accompanies spring and are excited to announce that our Denver flagship store will undergo a major renovation project beginning this summer and scheduled for completion in the fall. The remodel will incorporate sophisticated, residential design elements while encouraging a more welcoming and full-service shopping experience. We look forward to unveiling the new and improved store coming fall 2010! Please enjoy this issue of Accent magazine. We wish you a fulfilling spring and summer and look forward to seeing you soon.
Warm Regards,
Michael Pollak, CEO Hyde Park Jewelers
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1 8 K S i g n at u r e B r a c e l e t s a n d C u f f s
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Š2009 Ebel
EVENTS
Audemars Piguet Collectors Dinner Phoenix—November 12, 2009 Hyde Park and Audemars Piguet welcomed a small group of distinguished guests to a collectors’ dinner featuring a showcase of Audemars Piguet timepieces and a private dinner by Chef Eddie Matney. The event was held at Paradise Valley’s Southern European Designer Showhouse. Guests enjoyed spectacular views of the Valley and had the opportunity to meet François-Henry Bennahmias, President and CEO of Audemars Piguet, The Americas.
Panerai Collectors Dinner Denver—September 30, 2009 Hyde Park and Panerai hosted an enthusiastic group of Panerai aficionados (often called ‘Paneristis’) at Strings restaurant in Denver, where guests had the opportunity to mingle and talk shop with fellow brand loyalists. Panerai representative Karl Poulson showcased an impressive collection of watches, including several rare and extremely limited timepieces.
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EVENTS
Omega Collectors Dinner Denver—September 24, 2009 Last fall, Hyde Park and Omega teamed up to celebrate the introduction of Omega watches to Hyde Park’s Denver store. The exclusive collectors dinner was held at a private residence in Denver’s Hilltop neighborhood and featured a dinner by Chef Troy Guard of TAG Restaurant. Guests enjoyed presentations by Omega’s renowned horologist Dan Fenwick, along with the President of Omega North America, Gregory Swift. Following dinner, guests had the opportunity to win an Omega watch by correctly disassembling and reassembling an entire watch movement. While everybody enjoyed the challenge, the art of watchmaking proved to be too difficult for the guests and nobody was awarded a new Omega watch that evening.
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EVENTS
Patek Philippe Collectors Dinner Denver—November 19, 2009 Hyde Park and Patek Philippe entertained a small group of esteemed collectors at local Denver restaurant Barolo Grill for an exclusive showcase of Patek Philippe timepieces. Guests indulged in a traditional Northern Italian five-course meal while enjoying a hands-on experience with the extraordinary watch collection. John Reardon, Patek Philippe representative and author of Patek Philippe in America: Marketing the World's Foremost Watch, welcomed guests and provided an intimate look into the Patek Philippe brand and its distinctive place among the world’s finest timepieces.
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© 2009 CHANEL®, Inc. J 12®
CHANEL.COM
White high-tech ceramic watch. Self-winding mechanical movement. 42-hour power reserve.
2010
caleDENVER ndar of events CHERRY CREEK SHOPPING CENTER
April 24-25 Spring Bridal & Diamond Event May 7-8 Mother’s Day Trunk Show September Grand Unveiling of Newly Remodeled Store October 1-2 23rd Annual Watch Fair & Sale
PHOENIX
November 12-13 The Diamond Event
BILTMORE FASHION PARK
May 7-8 Mother’s Day Trunk Show October 15-16 7th Annual Watch Fair & Sale December 3-4 Holiday Designer Event
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JOIN US TO SUPPORT CARE’S WORK TO HELP EMPOWER WOMEN WORLDWIDE.
Appassionata Collection
SpringFlair TEMPLE ST. CLAIR
IPPOLITA
JUDE FRANCES PENNY PREVILLE
HYDE PARK
JOHN HARDY
TEMPLE ST. CLAIR angel pendants in 18K yellow gold with diamonds on ruby station chain. IPPOLITA assorted gemstone bangle bracelets in sterling silver. JUDE FRANCES from left to right: 18K yellow gold ring with white topaz and diamonds, 18K white gold ring with blue topaz and diamonds, 18K white gold ring with white topaz and diamonds. PENNY PREVILLE Petite Penny key, moon and star necklaces in 18K white gold with diamonds. HYDE PARK drop earrings in 18K yellow gold and blackened silver with diamonds and peridot. JOHN HARDY Batu Bamboo cuff with smoky quartz in sterling silver.
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AARON BASHA
QUEEN BABY
MIZUKI
ROBERTO COIN
QUEEN BABY large crowned heart pavé CZ pendant in sterling silver on 18” black onyx bead necklace. AARON BASHA assorted baby shoe, star and heart charms on 18K white gold pavé diamond heart bracelet. MIZUKI woven leather bracelets with assorted charms in 14K yellow gold and diamonds. ROBERTO COIN Bold Gold Collection link necklace and bracelet in 18K yellow gold.
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WatchOut
for him
BAUME & MERCIER
TW STEEL
CARTIER
BREITLING BAUME & MERCIER Classima Executives XL, stainless steel case and bracelet, silvered guilloche dial, open balance wheel, automatic movement. TW STEEL CEO Tonneau, bowed stainless steel case, black dial, black Italian leather strap with alligator print, quartz movement. Also available with stainless steel bracelet. CARTIER Santos 100 XL Chronograph, titanium and stainless steel case, toile de voile strap, automatic chronograph movement. BREITLING Superocean Heritage Chronograph Limited Edition, 46mm stainless steel case, black unidirectional ratcheted bezel, gun blue dial, Ocean Classic bracelet in woven steel, automatic chronograph movement.
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WatchOut for her
OMEGA
CHANEL
JAEGER-LECOULTRE MICHELE OMEGA Constellation ‘09, 27mm stainless steel and 18K red gold case, brown mother-of-pearl dial with embossed “Supernova” pattern, diamond bezel and hour markers, 18K red gold and stainless steel bracelet, quartz movement. CHANEL Première, stainless steel case set with diamonds, mother-of-pearl dial set with four diamond markers, white rubber strap, quartz movement. JAEGER-LECOULTRE Grand Reverso 986 Duodate, rotating 18K rose gold case featuring white dial on one side and black dial on the other, black alligator strap with 18K rose gold buckle. MICHELE Deco XL, stainless steel case and bracelet, mother-of-pearl dial with diamond markers.
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Bridal
Wedding Bells Are Ringing
TACORI
ROBERTO COIN CENTO MEMOIRE
SCOTT KAY
PHILIP STONE
ROBERTO COIN CENTO Bella Cestina engagement ring in 18K white gold with 100-Facet Cento diamond center stone. TACORI assorted diamond engagement rings available in 18K white gold or platinum. MEMOIRE six-stone diamond engagement ring shown with matching seven-stone diamond band. All styles available in 18K white gold or platinum. PHILIP STONE assorted diamond engagement rings set with Hyde Park’s signature Classica Cut diamond. Available in 18K white gold or platinum. SCOTT KAY diamond engagement ring from the Contemporary Crown Setting Collection (left), diamond pavÊ engagement ring with surprise diamond (right). All styles available in 18K white gold or platinum.
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&
M E R C I E R
Š 2009 Baume & Mercier, Inc.
B A U M E
H A M P TO N
&
M E
Accent Advisor I just inherited a ruby brooch from my late aunt. It’s gorgeous, but I don’t have a clue what it’s worth. Is it important for me to have it appraised? is qualified. “Just because someone has worked in the jewelry business for a long time, they don’t necessarily have the training that’s required do appraisals appropriately,” warns jeweler and expert gemologist Robert Mann. “I recommend that you find someone who’s a graduate gemologist [with a degree] from the Gemological Institute of America, and then preferably someone who has a background of expertise and the backing of a store that’s got a good reputation.”
I’d like to collect estate jewelry, but have no idea where to start. What do I need to know before I begin my hunt for the perfect pieces? Estate jewelry is a smart investment, not only because estate pieces are often less expensive than their contemporary counterparts, but because you can be certain that you’ll be the only belle at the ball wearing your unique treasure. Furthermore, the workmanship found in quality estate jewelry is hard to match. However, it can be a tricky market to navigate. According to estate expert Mary Beth Kroh, you must first investigate which stylistic period really awakens something in you (i.e. Art Deco, Retro, ’60s). Once you
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find a piece you’d like to purchase, “buyer beware,” she warns. If it seems too good to be true, take a closer look to make sure that you’re not buying a reproduction. Look for manufacturing techniques and see what kind of joint catches or pins are on the item. “If you see something that’s supposed to be 100 years old with the same clasp as your newer jewelry, there’s something wrong!” says Kroh. Catching these details might be tough for a novice, so do your research and buy from a reputable jeweler you know and trust.
WRITTEN BY KATHARINE ZARRELLA. HAMILTON JEWELERS PRIVATE RESERVE, COLOMBIAN EMERALD AND DIAMOND BRACELET CA. 1930
An appraisal is certainly important for insurance purposes, but it’s also a great way to learn the history of your aunt’s gift. Along with determining the worth of the piece, an appraisal will list the metal content and the quality and weight of the stones, along with any and all historical information the appraiser is able to ascertain. For example, a qualified appraiser will be able to tell you the era during which your brooch was made by examining the cut of the stones or hallmark stamps. The key word here
Accent Advisor I’ve been noticing a lot of artisanal jewelry in fashion spreads recently and I’d like to try out the look. But is this just a passing trend?
From carved bangles to fabric necklaces, an artisanal piece will turn heads for many seasons to come. Often, it can be worn with any outfit. Amp up a basic white tee with a frilled chiffon bib or bring an earthy flare to your cocktail look with a chunky wooden necklace. For dressier occasions, look for pieces that are embellished with crystals or stones. Achieve a look of edgy elegance with a piece that reflects your personality.
When you’ve made a substantial investment, jewelry insurance is an absolute must! While you may have coverage under your homeowners policy, this coverage is often limited, and in the event that something happens to your new valuable, it will likely cause your homeowners insurance premium to go up. The process may seem a bit daunting, but as long as you do some groundwork it can actually be surprisingly simple. According to VP of personal lines operations at Jewelers Mutual, Michael Maley, the most important thing to do when shopping for insurance is to find out how the claim will be handled. “Is the company going to replace the
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item? Or are they just going to pay you cash? You’ll also want to look for an insurance company that will allow you to work with your jeweler to replace the item, rather than refer you to one of their preferred jewelers or service organizations. You really need to look at the terms of the replacement,” says Maley. Many customers worry that jewelry insurance will leave a hefty dent in their wallet, but this is simply not the case. On average, insurance only costs one to three percent of the item’s value, a small price to pay to protect your favorite baubles!
NECKLACE BY GREENBEADS COUTURE
I recently purchased my first piece of fine jewelry. Do I need to insure it? Or is it covered under my homeowners policy?
DESIGNERPROFILE
Roberto Coin combines creative passion with a sportsman’s strive for excellence. By Lorraine DePasque
AN ARTIST’S SOUL, AN ATHLETE’S HEART effortlessly going back and forth between the two, ashingly dressed, meticulously groomed and as if to emphasize that his personal and professional exuding a matter-of-fact machismo, Roberto selves are inextricably intertwined. Coin is one of those lucky guys who likely From an early age, he displayed physical skills of could do well in life simply based on his strength, agility, speed and endurance. From pre-adolescence looks and demeanor alone. Such a until age 14, Coin was a competitive runner; from 15 notion appalls him. into his twenties, a formidable fencer; and in The fact is that Pendant and between, an accomplished gymnast this internationally acclaimed master earrings in 18K white who competed at the Youth jeweler has been working since he was a gold from Olympic Games in Rome. teenager. As a youngster in European Coin’s Cento Yet marathons, fencing boarding schools, although not quite collection tournaments and gymnastic employed in the true sense of the word, he competitions were not what fate was quite entrepreneurial, selling cigarettes to whoever would ultimately had in store for Coin. buy them. Recalling those boyhood days, he says, “I was always Abandoning the possibility of a sports so nervous that I would get caught by the headmaster that I career, he began to seek out the challenges of started smoking myself!” the jewelry arena. Coin often jokes as he speaks of his colorful life and career,
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A surprising choice? Roberto Coin doesn’t think so. Flashing that trademark deep-from-within grin, he says, “Even though I never fenced after the age of 23, I liked the elegance of it and the way it challenged my mind”—two characteristics that speak to the allure of making quality jewelry. Today, as one of the leading luxury Italian brands—with 10 boutiques worldwide and merchandise sold in hundreds of fine jewelry stores—he’s recognized for fashioning metals, gems and other beautiful materials into creative designs that appeal to the wearer’s sense of elegance and style as well as her emotions. His signature Appassionato collection put him on the map in the U.S., alluring women with its tactile woven gold textures. “Appassionato is so classic that it will continue for many years to come,” he says, “especially this year, when such traditional design will be very important, particularly in long chains and earrings.” Throughout 2010, there will be many long chains and earrings added to the Cento collection, based on the jeweler’s proprietary Cento cut: a round brilliant diamond with 100 facets, nearly double the number found in most round brilliant diamonds. The Cento diamond also takes twice as long to cut and polish by hand than a traditional round brilliant stone. While classics such as Appassionato and Cento excite him and continue to allure customers, Coin really lights up when discussing his newest collection, by far the edgiest of the three: Capri Plus. With stone shades inspired by the beautiful sunsets of Italy’s legendary island of Capri, the collection includes bold pastel-hued semiprecious gems, colored sapphires, white and brown diamonds and different colors of 18K gold, including pink and peach. Most recently, Coin has introduced pieces in ebony wood and blackened sterling silver. Combining materials is just the beginning, he says, because this year, the fashion trend is all about mixing and matching. “It’s the art of combining
different designs together to create a unique style. So there are a lot of new rings and earrings that mix well together.” In typical Italian style, Capri Plus bangles, pendants, rings and earrings exhibit fashion without flash. On the topic of fashion, supermodel Christy Turlington Burns continues as the face of the Roberto Coin brand, not only because of her status in the fashion world, but also because her own activism is in sync with Coin’s view on giving back. The A-list celebrity is featured in the company’s cause marketing campaign that supports CARE, a leading humanitarian Roberto Coin with organization fighting global poverty. brand ambassador In our current popular culture, when Christy Turlington Burns and Peter many publicity seekers are pulling Webster, president questionable stunts to grab their 15 minutes and co-founder of of fame, Roberto Coin is on the opposite end Roberto Coin USA of the spectrum. He’s proof that real fame is based on a lifetime of hard work, talent, achievement and giving. Roberto Coin—the man and the jewelry—grabs your attention now and will hold it for years to come. ♦ Bangles from the Capri Plus collection in 18K yellow, white or peach gold, ebony wood, diamonds, precious and semiprecious gems
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Jewelry from spring 2010 NEW YORK FASHION WEEK. By Jillian Sprague 26
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DESIGNERINTERVIEW
Stephen Webster and Christina Aguilera weigh in on their recent collaboration. By Jillian Sprague
Platinum
Personalities esigner Stephen Webster is often called a rock star. And with friends like Grammy winner Christina Aguilera and a part-time gig as a band manager (to the eightmember group The Rotten Hill Gang), it’s easy to see why. Here, Accent uncovers the personal side of Webster, and Aguilera reveals how their friendship evolved into something more.
How did you get into jewelry making? SW: It started when I went to art school in 1976. I’d never thought about jewelry. I sort of had a vague notion I was going to go into fashion design, but then I saw jewelry and thought, “My God this is amazing!” I loved it so much I couldn’t believe I could make a living creating it. Do you personally work on all your designs? SW: I probably made everything, everything, for the first 10, 12 years and then I started to build a team, first with one person, then adding my brother. My brother has followed in my footsteps because he saw that I was loving my career and he wanted to do the same. Does anyone else in your family work for you? SW: Oh yes, my wife, his wife…(laughs). But we don’t all work together: we wouldn’t be able to survive that! We [my brother and I] could work together, no problem.
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THE ORIGINAL .
So it’s the women who are the problem? SW: No it’s not the women, it’s the thing of “your spouse.” I’m not picking on the women, I just think it would be really difficult and neither of us would want to do it. My wife does an amazing job. She’s always over in Russia dealing with our VIP clients there; she’s a real personality. And I’m doing my thing. And then when you come home at night, you see each other and in some ways, I prefer that and so does she. If we left in the morning and went to the same place and came home together at night, what would we talk about other than work? You know what I mean? What are your favorite pieces of jewelry to wear? SW: I’m not really stuck on one thing. My earrings are blue sapphire, which is quite unusual. Most guys are going to either wear diamonds or gold. I’ve got blue sapphires and people sort of pick that out, but they don’t
we should work together. I really believe in him as an artist, so it’s been a pleasure working together on his campaigns. SW:We met seven or eight years ago on the set of the Lady Marmalade video, and she just sort of became my muse. Her constant musical reinvention is amazing. The ads represent the personality and style of both Christina and the designs in my collections. Christina, how would you describe your personal style? CA: My personal style and my music are constantly changing. With each record I try to find new inspiration. Back to Basics was inspired by music and fashion of the ’20s, ’30s and ’40s. For my newest album I found inspiration in much more modern elements of pop culture. I am all about trying new things, being bold and exciting, and that is what I love most about Stephen’s work. He can do it all, from really edgy rock n’ roll skull pieces to much more elegant and simple designs. He is not afraid to try new things or use lots of
“I MAKE JEWELRY THAT GETS NOTICED. YOU’VE GOT TO BE PREPARED TO CHAT ABOUT IT.” think it’s odd, they just think it’s unusual. And I like that. Then I’ve got a Japanese Kabuki mask ring that’s this long head, devillooking character. It comes from the Kabuki theater imagery in Japan. I’ve got a watch on one wrist with a really beautiful woven crocodile strap, and then I’ve got six bracelets of all different sorts. One is leather that my kids bought me on a beach in Costa Rica. The others are mine. Then I’ve got a pendant which is a gold raven skull. I change jewelry when I get bored. Have you gotten any memorable comments from customers? SW: Since I make jewelry that gets noticed, people always tell me they get many compliments on my designs. They tell me that people notice my jewelry from across the room; it’s quite ‘in your face’ because of the colors and the way I cut stones. When it comes to classic jewelry, let’s say diamonds, what can you comment on other than the size? “Wow what a big diamond!” I don’t think it says much about you other than you’ve got a lot of money. But if you wear interesting jewelry, that does say something about you. I find that really inspiring. The other thing I often hear is that my jewelry makes people feel confident, powerful. Again, I think it’s the ‘crystally’ cut of it and the way it glows. That’s all part of the “power.” How did the collaboration with Christina come about? CA: I’ve been a collector of Stephen’s jewelry for a long time now, and over the years we became good friends. On a casual night out in London, we decided
color.You can see his inspiration behind each piece. And which is your favorite jewelry piece? CA: Stephen designed both my engagement and wedding rings—the two rings fit together to make one. So I’d have to say that is my all time favorite. But my favorite piece from his collections happens to be a diamond “bat wing” ring that spreads across three fingers on my hand. When Stephen showed it to me I knew I had to have it. Stephen, which two pieces should a woman buy for spring ’10? Every woman needs a stud in her life. Add a bit of glamour to your spring wardrobe with our blackened and gold plated Fringe hoops or the Stud ring. How is your line evolving and what will you do next? SW: When I started out, my designs were elaborate. Over the years the pieces have become stripped down, mechanical and organic. But my favorite material is still layered stone, such as quartz over an opaque material. As for what’s next, I’m really enjoying managing my band, and I can see myself designing a shoe. Besides jewelry and a beautiful face, shoes are the first thing I notice about a woman! But I’ll continue to grow my jewelry business, especially by finding and developing new talent. If I see a young person with talent, I like to bring them under my wing. I want to pass on my passion: not just the financial success, but living a great life and loving each day. ♦
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Paradise Collection
BRIDALTRENDS
Wedding Day
Wow
term seems especially applicable to the new rough-cut diamonds, polished and unpolished, that have an organic feeling and a more toned down elegance. “More women are being drawn to the inherent beauty of rough and raw cuts. They reflect light in a less flashy way for a more subdued but truly unique look,” says O’Connor. In wedding bands, contemporary styles are wider and reveal geometric shapes or tri-tone metal combinations, while vintage styles feature engraving, piercing work, granulation, or tiny millegrain beadwork. The eternity band is still popular too, particularly when updated in natural color diamonds. Consider micro prong or micro pavé styles that can be paired with the
he old adage “something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue” definitely applies to this year’s bridal trends. There are more options than ever as designers recognize that women want everything from the engagement ring to the bridesmaid gifts to be special and unique. Inspirations from bygone eras, blue center stones and heirloom gems in modern settings are just a few of the new offerings. There are no rules anymore: the new tradition is to break with convention and wear what feels right, allowing you to shine long after you take your vows. According to style and jewelry expert Michael O’Connor, “Gone are the days of the all-white wedding. I’m seeing brides integrate wonderful color into everything, including wedding gowns and, most importantly, their jewelry. It all starts with the engagement ring. Many women are choosing natural color diamonds in yellow hues, pink, champagne or cognac. They’re also going for a variety of gemstones, often based on the symbolism of the stone. The most predominant colors are blues, especially moonstone, followed by lavender and pink sapphires.” When we refer to diamonds as ‘rocks,’ the
engagement ring or stacked with other eternity bands. For your wedding day, select pieces that will complement your gown, but that you can also wear well into the future. As more and more jewelry designers have launched bridal lines, there are myriad looks that go from sleek to romantic and everything in between. O’Connor reports that “most gowns today are less princess and more glam. Some are downright sexy, with plunging backs and tightly hugged curves, creating space for sparkle in the bare areas. Stack bracelets up the arm, or create drama by opting for chandelier or pendant drop earrings with swing. Necklace trends include diamond station necklaces worn long or doubled, and sensual drop pendants and lariats that dip to the décolletage of deep v-necklines.” Remember to highlight only one or two body parts so that your jewelry never outshines you. The best way to personalize your big day is to create a new piece out of something cherished and handed down. O’Connor’s final tip: “Incorporate meaningful gems into your look. Jewels that have been in the family or birthstones of the bride, groom or their parents help create a truly special piece. Rings inscribed with personal quotes, poems or emotions are a beautiful reminder of special moments and the language of your love.” ♦
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PLATINUM DRESS BY DOMO ADAMI. RING BY DIAMOND IN THE ROUGH. IMAGES COURTESY OF PGI
Walk down the aisle in something totally new, totally you. By Beth Bernstein
REDCARPET
DANA REBECCA DESIGNS
Mixing it Up
The unexpected pairing of coral with red set Jamie-Lynn Sigler apart from the crowd. Forget perfectly coordinated outfits and opt instead for complementary colors for an evening look with a surprising twist.
PLATINUM JEWELRY BY BVLGARI
Jennifer Garner beamed more brightly than ever in tasteful diamonds that weren’t overshadowed by her glittery dress. Whatever she wears, the award for best accessory always goes to her megawatt grin!
High Shine
T H G I L D N A R COLO
Take
the Tint
DANA REBECCA DESIGNS
The Hills star Lo Bosworth warmed up to color at the 6th Annual TV Guide PostEmmy Party. Citrine is just one of the many semiprecious gems t h at t o p j ewe l r y designers are offering in their spring 2010 collections. Choose your own favorite hue for a very now update to your jewelry wardrobe.
Actress Kate Winslet at The Golden Globe Awards was proof that small jewels can have big impact. Standout sapphire drop earrings perfectly complemented her navy Yves St. Laurent gown in the oneshouldered silhouette of the season. Worn with natural hair and makeup, this red carpet look is almost as memorable as her six Oscar-nominated performances.
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Simply Stunning
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PLATINUM JEWELRY BY TIFFANY & CO.
occasion , t n e v e l ia own spec ect accessories. Let r u o y g in t a r celebr atures with the perf o t e p r a c g the red asizing your best fe in lk a w r e h Whet bout emphB Y JI L L IA N S P R A G U E a ll a is g in s dres our guide! y e b s r a t s the
Clothing Optional...
Ju d e Fr a n c e s
As if the sexy cut of her dress and those look-at-me pink lips weren’t eye-catching enough, Taylor Swift accessor ized her Grammy look with show-stopping chandelier earrings in blackened platinum. Choosing the year’s biggest metal trend made her a winner in more ways than one!
What rain? The ever-radiant Penelope Cruz is a study in how to we a r a n o u t f i t without letting it wear you. In Giorg io Ar mani Privé, Cruz is elegant from head to t o e . A n d s h e ’s making those flawless diamonds shine instead of the other way around.
Gorgeous
Glow
H. STERN
PLATINUM JEWELRY BY CHOPARD
Beauty
PLATINUM JEWELRY BY OFIRA
Backless
Luxe Layers
DVF BY H.STERN
The reason for that smirk? Vanessa Hudgens knows she looks good and isn’t afraid to flaunt it! This is the layered necklace look at its best: each pendant hits at a perfect spot and the designs don’t compete for attention. Add a stack of mixed bangles for a look that’s young, fresh and easy.
She only plays a schlump on TV! Comedian Tina Fey cleaned up beautifully in a flattering plunge neckline dress with beaded straps. A décolletage this pretty is best left bare, with simple earrings and a statement ring for a hint of glam.
Girl
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STYLENOTES
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Pieces that will add new meaning to your H E L A N G U A G E O F J E W E L R Y and what it says about the wearer has been studied for centuries. In early times, from the masses to nobility, the adornments women wore and how they chose to wear them marked their place in society. In the 1920s, when women in America won the right to vote, and in the ’30s, when more and more joined the workforce, we began to show our distinctive tastes. Status was out and freedom of expression was in. Throughout the later part of the century this changed again. We went from the proper and suburban ’50s to the rebellious and freethinking ’60s. From the mid-’80s through late-’90s, status was back in a big way. Women wanted to compete with their peers, wear jewelry similar to what their friends were wearing and blend in rather than
stand out. Name-dropping became the norm. With the exception of those in creative professions, jewelry wardrobes were built on big brand items and size did matter when it came to everything from engagement rings to stud earrings. But over the past few years, personal style has come back, and with it a range of truly original and eclectic jewelry designs. In today’s economy, we want pieces that have longevity and are either limited editions or one-of-a-kind, adding both intrinsic and investment value. We also want what we wear to make a statement about who we are. According to Shaye Strager, celebrity stylist and trend forecaster, “The personalized trend continues to reach new heights. One of the ways I advise both my friends and clients to achieve this is to design something with their local jeweler. This way they get a truly customized look. It’s also great for women
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EARRINGS BY PENNY PREVILLE. HOOP EARRINGS AND RINGS BY LESLIE GREENE
JEWELRY WARDROBE. By Beth Bernstein
Just be sure they have some sparkle and enhance rather than detract from your best features.” O’Steen says we are witnessing the return of the chandelier earring. She recommends large styles with open, airy cut-out oval or medallion shapes or multi-tiered fluid styles with glistening gems. She cautions to “avoid styles that hit right at your chin line. Try longer, wider styles, but make sure they don’t pull at the lobe. This season, there are plenty of lighter weight earrings with a big look.” Trends to consider as you round out your jewelry wardrobe: Rose gold, ever feminine and attractive on any skin tone, continues to be popular,” says O’Steen. It can mix in easily with other gold colors or be worn on its own with tonal gemstones and/or white diamonds. Stackable rings in varying settings, shapes, textures, colored diamonds, sapphires or gems—mix, contrast and pile them on! Or find one large ring with a motif that you love. There are wonderful floral styles with delicate pavé work or large stones positioned as petals. You can find great takes on reptiles and insects such as snakes, butterflies and spiders and a host of other creatures replacing the big one-stone cocktail ring. If you prefer a large gem, go for the geod, slice, slab, raw and roughcut styles juxtaposed with delicate melee work or elegant bezels. These are definitely attention getters as well as collectible works of art. Black diamonds are becoming as classic as the little black dress. Mix them with white diamonds for a truly modern look, or wear on their own as hoops, delicate bead necklaces, large stone rings and
to be part of the design process as they get to put their stamp of style on the piece when collaborating with the store.” Duvall O’Steen, director of jewelry PR and promotion for the World Gold Council, agrees. “It’s so exciting to create your own piece of jewelry.You can take existing pieces that you never wear and rework them into completely new looks using the original stones. Re-vamping old pieces is a type of guilt-free shopping in these uncertain times. You can come up with a budget you feel comfortable with and work with your jeweler to design an exclusive.” n addition, there are a number of looks this season that will give your jewelry wardrobe a complete makeover. According to our experts, it’s all in the wrist. Wide gold cuffs or link bracelets as well as stackable bangles were all over the red carpet, O’Steen and Strager concur. “These definitely offer a bold yet clean look if you are wearing them as your key piece of jewelry with simple studs or drop earrings,” says O’Steen. Wear one cuff on each wrist for a really dramatic effect. Strager likes the versatility of bangles and “the ability to mix and match different styles, metals and designers to achieve a rockin’ (or eclectic) look. I always seek out bangles that are unique in texture, stones or clasp,” she says. “Big, open link gold bracelets reminiscent of the ’40s are also popular,” says O’Steen. You can adorn your wrist with a chunky charm bracelet dangling with your favorite icons or memorabilia and keep adding to it. This combines the modern woman’s affinity for personalization and for meaningful and sentimental pieces that continue to grow in popularity.
NECKLACE BY LESLIE GREENE. BANGLES BY SETHI COUTURE
In TODAY’S ECONOMY, we want pieces that have longevity and are either limited editions or one-of-a-kind, adding both intrinsic and investment value. in various raw and rose cuts. Sterling silver is experiencing another moment in the spotlight. Mix blackened antiqued styles with yellow gold for an ancient appeal, or go for bold, sculptural pieces in collars, cuffs and rings. Styles with diamond accents look fresh and add mileage to your wardrobe at an accessible price. ♦
As far as earrings go, they run the gamut, from motif-driven studs to long styles with movement. When accessorizing the lobes, anything goes as long as you feel comfortable wearing them and they “brighten up your face,” says Strager, who suggests gold and colored gemstone drop earrings. “There is something for everyone today, from the more organic and natureinspired styles, to tailored and classic.
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Blue Moods Temple St. Clair showcases her singular style, layers of design spanning a nearly 25-year career
P E R S O N , Temple St. Clair shows the same 18K gold qualities that infuse her double designs: a softness like the southern breezes of Mummy her childhood, and an old world intellectual Ring with blue rigor rooted in classical history. From the past royal moonstone to the adventure of her present, her and diamond inspirations remain history, travel, the arts, granulation nature and the sea. Growing up in the South (Virginia and the coastal barrier islands of South Carolina), her childhood was filled with colorful stories from her American and European ancestry. Her father’s ancestors crossed with William the Conqueror from France to England, coming to America just prior to the Civil War. Her maternal grandmother studied in Versailles, played shuffleboard with F. Scott Fitzgerald aboard a transatlantic trip, and was one of the first to enter King Tut’s tomb just after its discovery. Add her mother’s enthusiasm for new places and her father’s love of history and the sea, and you can imagine the starting point from which Temple St. Clair’s own journey was launched. Traveling for a month every summer, St. Clair was encouraged to keep a journal and gather treasures to make scrapbooks. Before each trip, she studied the language, history and literature of each destination,
Colorful LIFE A
The designs of
Temple St. Clair
stand the test of time.
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sometimes from only one place in the world, like the spinal from Madagascar. In fact, natural colored gemstones are one-of-a-kind, “as individual as people,” discovered by “nomad” gem dealers traveling the globe. Her fascination with the history and the stories behind these elements, from coins to gemstones, goes hand-in-hand with her recurring use of age-old symbols: talismans and amulets “attributed with power and meaning by their wearer,” religious symbols, zodiac signs, angels, mythological serpents, butterflies, doves and pomegranates, all imbued with ancient meanings that she incorporates into modern designs. “Each tells a story, mythological or religious, and ultimately personal. Especially the locket, which we fill with our own stories.” These themes repeat throughout her collections. Her rock crystal amulet (St. Clair still wears her very first one) gets updated every season. Since her customer, like herself, is all about personal style, each piece acquired adds another layer to that personality. Her spring 2010 collection derives from Henri Matisseinspired cutouts, her love for blue manifested in the use of blue moonstones and sapphires and aquamarine, in addition to pink and green tourmalines and diamond accents. She also dabbles for the first time in rose gold. She’s added a series called Save Japan Dolphins (pendants and a ring) to support the organization’s 18K gold Signature efforts to cease the capture and Rock Crystal Amulets slaughter of dolphins in Taiji, with diamonds; 18K Japan. Her lifelong love of the Gold Matisse Cuff with rose cut blue sapphire sea and her history of and pavé diamonds; supporting causes make this a 18K Gold Cluster Drop very personal endeavor, Earring with aquamarine, green beryl particularly striking in that her and diamonds beloved blue moonstone is now endangered, too. And so the Temple St. Clair journey continues, beckoning us with gold and magical colored gemstones to travel with her and create our own personal story with these treasures. Or as the designer herself puts it, “Collecting, discovering and nodding to historical influences preserves a visceral link with the past, retelling wonderful stories in new and surprising ways.” ♦
from Ireland to Egypt. As a teenager she studied abroad in Switzerland. When her family moved to the barrier islands, she spent her summers studying marine biology with JeanMichel Cousteau’s Project Ocean Search. The work involved macro photography of small sea creatures and plankton, which St. Clair describes in her book, Alchemy: “At that level of intimacy, everything appears to be gemlike.” It’s no mystery then that she loves to work with colors of the sea: aquamarines, blue sapphires, blue-green tourmaline, seafoam green beryl, and her favorite, blue moonstone. At Smith College majoring in literature, St. Clair spent a year studying abroad in Florence, cementing a Florentine love. Looking for a reason to return to Italy, she embarked on a Masters Degree program in Italian literature in Florence and remained there after its completion. At this time, she was introduced to “the world of the artisan” and like so much else in her life, was propelled into jewelry design by her family. isiting Temple, her mother was intent on finding an ancient coin and having a necklace made from it. Together they searched and found one her mother loved, from Carthage dating to the 4th century B.C. Her mother, scheduled to leave, tasked Temple with creating a necklace out of the coin. From this experience came not only her first jewelry creation, but relationships with antiquarians and goldsmiths with whom she worked (and still does) much the same way as they did in the 14th and 15th centuries. “A world opened for me. It brought together my years of study and love for Mediterranean culture with its timeless and classic aesthetic.” Her use of coins spawned a fascination with the histories and the mythologies that the coins represented, and as she studied them, she also studied the ancient techniques of gold work (granulation and filigree) that would eventually become Temple St. Clair signatures. (The granulation pyramid is a hallmark of her designs.) Another of her trademarks, in addition to the prevalent use of gold, is extensive work with colored gemstones. Inspired by Byzantine mosaics, she uses colored stones as if they were tiles. She prickles at the term “semi-precious” since all of her stones are natural certified, not treated or enhanced, and for that reason they can be rarer than typical diamonds. They also speak to her nomadic nature. Unique colored gems require a hunt and they come from all over the world,
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MEN’STRENDS Pendant necklaces continue to gain popularity. David Yurman’s Arrowhead Tag sterling silver pendants on woven leather cords reflect a trend towards refinement and stylized imagery
Scott Kay’s hammered Contemporary Link bracelet in sterling silver features a padlock-style engraved clasp and subtle rock-n-roll styling
OLDSCHOOL
STYLE
Trimmer shapes and subdued elegance with a dash of rock-n-roll.
By Robert Haynes-Peterson
The John Hardy Naga Lava Crest Ring with black saphire is texturally complex without being over the top
A S W E ’ V E R E P O R T E D over the past couple of years, men are living in a renaissance in terms of the array of accessories available to them. From watches and pendants to cuff links, bracelets and rings, it’s a wonderful time to be a guy. Just as men’s fashion has returned to a cleaner, trimmer look, it seems amid all the oversized watches and clunky chains that the second decade of the 21st century is ushering in a trend for stylish, elegant pieces and slimmer, more streamlined dress watches. That’s not to say you won’t see a few skulls, dogtags and gargantuan timepieces, but an era of elegance is upon us, and it’s showing up on everyone from hip hop stars to the bluest-blooded socialites.
JEWELRY: BACK IN BLACK “While there’s still plenty of action in the urban- and gothinfluenced sides of men’s jewelry, we’re also seeing the return of the gentleman: tie pins, tie clips, cuff links and smartlooking rings,” says designer and celebrity stylist Phillip Bloch. “It’s even happening in entertainment where men like Jay Z, Diddy and Justin Timberlake have grown up. The whole urban movement has to be a little more mature and respectable.” Bloch is right: Up and down the social ladder, we’re seeing
Sterling silver black sapphire engraved cuff links from Scott Kay feature black and dark brown gemstones and blackened metal engraving for just a hint of goth
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Bloch is right: Up and down the social ladder, we’re seeing a refinement of jewelry and accessories for men. Black and brown diamonds, brushed silver or platinum and blackened metals are appearing throughout men’s jewelry, gaining popularity even as wedding bands, according to Platinum Guild International. And while we’re seeing the incorporation of creative and casual materials—silk, leather and rubber—into pendants and bracelets, it’s being used as a subtle complement to precious metals and colored gems, instead of some sort of folksy gimmick. Woven leather necklaces hold sleek, abstract pendants, and rubber is woven to provide depth to a bracelet bearing beautifully crafted metal clasps. “I’m using a lot of blackened silver, blackened rhodium, and black and brown diamonds in my new men’s line,” says jewelry designer Leslie Greene (her men’s collection debuts this spring). “What guy doesn’t wear at least a little black?” Of course, there are still plenty of rock-n-roll options for the man who wants to flaunt it: chains, skulls, crosses, bejeweled dogtags. None of these trends are over yet. David Yurman, who skillfully balances a line between edgy and stylish, is producing a range of options from sleek to agressive. Yurman is offering up a collection of chains and watches called Streamline, geared toward the trend-forward guy who needs to take the edge off just a bit, and cuff links with or without a dazzling smokey quartz pavé. “I see two directions moving forward,” says Bloch. “Very futuristic and very refined. Cuff links, chains and bracelets will all continue to be huge. I see more and more guys wearing bracelets.” And what of the man-gagement ring? Real trend or flash in the pan? Well, the rings are out there for men who want to show commitment to their fiancées before the Big Day. You decide.
WATCHES: THE REAL SLIM SHADY If jewelry is experiencing a bit of streamlining, watches are undergoing a slimming and trimming that’s the envy of any Biggest Loser. “The trend continuing in 2010 and beyond is for fairly straightforward and classic timepieces,” says Ulrich Wohn, president and CEO of TAG Heuer North America, which just re-released its stylish 1970s Silverstone Chronograph as a limited
edition. TAG Heuer isn’t the only watch label re-issuing sleek classics. Other brands are digging through their archives for minimalist dress watches, creative profiles and streamlined looks. New designs, while they may preserve the large case dimensions still popular today, have trimmed the vertical profile to ultrathin proportions common in the 1950s. Credit Mad Men, or a newfound sensibility borne of economic hard times. Or simply the desire for something classic. “It’s not that people don’t want to spend,” says Wohn, “but they want to know how they’re spending and what they’re getting for their money. That’s a difference today from three years ago.” Maximilian Reidl, CEO of Reidl Glassware and an avid collector of new and vintage watches, supports the concept of buying for timelessness. “Buying products, whether fine wine, Ferraris or watches, that are high-quality and keep their value is something I’m very keen on,” says Reidl. “Since I’m in the business of producing handmade products I also enjoy quality MAKING TIME myself, handmade things.” He cites Top: The subtle, streamlined style Patek Philippe and Rolex of the new Roadster S is fine-tuned among his favorites, both as by Cartier for modern simplicity Middle: The Tag Heuer Limited collectibles and as high-quality Edition Silverstone Chronograph is a timepieces. When it comes to re-issue of a 1974 classic, identified fashion trends in watches, he’s by its cushion cut-shaped case Bottom: The introduction of metal more cautious. “I’ve bracelets on the Tank Solo’s new purchased fashion pieces Le Must Collection gives this before, but the problem is, classic a brand new, modern look they go out of fashion as quickly as they came in. You’ve spent a lot of money on them, and what are you going to do with them?” Of course, everyone’s definition of a timeless timepiece is different. While the oversized watch phenomenon of the past decade is still going strong (and many labels that began life as military or diving watches will, of course, always continue to provide large-format cases), as is the search among some collectors for just one more complication to pack into their timepieces, this expanded category of lean dress watches offers modern man a diversity in choice and personal statement. (“Why scream when you can whisper?” asks Bloch.) “Personal style has become such a major focus in fashion,” he adds. “Everyone’s accessorized. As a young man, I wasn’t accessorized, and I was a fashion kid.” What’s around the next corner for men? Both Reidl and Bloch would love to see pocket watches make a comeback. Perhaps with apparel labels like By Robert James promoting Edwardian-influenced fashion for spring, and a growing interest in all things Steampunk (a Victoriana-meets-mad scientist art movement), it won’t be long before those Yurman chains will have watches dangling from them once again. ♦
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DEFINING STYLE All that Glitters. By Jillian Sprague 1
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3. Not a problem if it’s on a watch 5. Small stones, closely set 6.Yellow stone and bird 7. Certifies gemologists 8. Holds a stone in place 11. Conflict ____ 13. For the cuff or on the course 14. Military accessory 16. _______ color diamonds 17. Position for proposal
1. Not white or yellow, but 2. The number of C’s 4. Tells your item’s worth 6. Lobster is one type 7. Bride’s beau 9. “Bling” or cubes 10. It enlivens the décolletage 12. Diamonds, not smooth 15. Silver and
ACROSS: complication; pavé; canary; GIA; setting; free; links; dogtag; natural; kneeling DOWN: rose; four; appraisal; clasp; groom; ice; necklace; rough; gold
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HAPPY SPORT COLLECTION
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