DQ Magazine Issue 6B

Welcome to our latest issue of DQ Magazine!

We’re delighted to have you back for another edition.

As always, we have lots of great content for you, including an article on the basic principles of positive reinforcement, a breed profile of the energetic Boxer, a look at managing the potentially deadly habit of rockeating in dogs, and a discussion of the ‘silent killer’  Spirocerca lupi.

We know many of you will be out and about at Pet Expo this weekend, and we hope to bump into you there.

If not, we’ll see you on our socials or back here next month for another edition of DQ Magazine.

Keep warm!

Lizzie and the DQ team

Designer: Anne Royden-Turner

IN THIS ISSUE

The Boxer

Bouncy, friendly and smart

Rocks in the road

Help! My dog eats rocks

Territory turmoil

How to stop your dog from marking in the house

Canine cognitive dysfunction

What you need to know

Positive reinforcement training

The principles

DQ goes dog-spotting

At Shongweni Club, KZN

Spirocerca lupi

The silent killer

Common neurological and orthopaedic conditions

Part 2: Degenerative myelopathy and rehabilitation

AskDQ

Your equestrian questions answered

Products we love

Shopping fun

The Boxer

BOUNCY, FRIENDLY AND SMART

With his jutting jaw, powerful body, chiselled thighs and square head, the Boxer looks the part of a hardnosed guard dog and given the right training, there is no doubt that he can play a working role to perfection. But this is only one side of the story. Get a Boxer around his people, and you’ll meet a friendly, clever, energetic dog who’s hugely proud of his family and great with older kids.

The very model of versatility, the Boxer will throw himself into whatever he is asked.

HISTORY

Boxer history stretches back through a long line of highly prized but since extinct hunting dogs. The breed is believed to ultimately derive from the Molossian, a gigantic and ancient breed favoured by the Roman aristocracy and Alexander the Great. Advancing several centuries, the Boxer bloodline is also heavily intertwined with that of the Bullenbeisser. This Belgian and German dog breed found popularity through the 17th and 18th centuries for its ability to take on larger animals. A concerted Victorian crossbreeding effort combined the Bullenbeisser with English Bulldog lines, creating the Boxer we know today.

By the 1890s, a group of Teutonic dog lovers took up the breed’s cause and created the world’s first-ever Boxer club. An initial breed standard followed in the early 20th century, complete with the lengthy and precise cranial description that still defines the document today.

ABOUT

The Boxer has a short, smooth, glossy coat, which highlights his athletic shape. Fawn is the only recognized ground colour, but the base coat varies widely, ranging from a gold to a dark, rich red, and the vertical black stripes of Brindle can also occur in various degrees. White markings, where they appear, are commonly clustered around the muzzle, chest and feet, and these dogs are often known as ‘flashy’.

Predominantly white Boxers can be a point of contention. The snowy coat isn’t indicative of outbreeding; it’s now understood to occasionally occur when two Boxers with a piebald gene are bred. Though the white colour is associated with higher risks of sunburn and deafness, no other major health issues are associated with the colour specifically. While a minority, solid and predominantly white coats occur in around 20% of all Boxers, and photographs from the Victorian era show that the colour dates back to the earliest days of the breed.

In Boxers, a short or absent tail is not necessarily the sign of a docked dog. Though most Boxers carry their long and gently curving tails up high, a small population has been specially bred to exhibit a small, tapering tail instead. These Boxers – referred to as Bobtails – were developed through selective breeding with Pembroke Welsh Corgis. Once enough generations have passed, these dogs can be Kennel Club registered as Boxers, but their Bobtail status must be marked on any breedrelated documentation.

HEALTH CONDITIONS

Boxers are susceptible to hip dysplasia and aortic stenosis (narrowing of the aortic valve of the heart). Boxer experts are also focused on eradicating Juvenile Kidney Disease from the breed. This rare disease heavily impacts the quality of life, causing affected dogs to become lethargic, vomit, and frequently drink and urinate. It is currently incurable. Boxers are also more vulnerable than other breeds to histiocytic ulcerative colitis, a bowel disease which causes liquid and painful bowel moments. The condition is relatively rare and can be managed in most cases. Exocrine pancreatic insufficiency also occurs in Boxers with higher than average prevalence. While it can be associated with ongoing pancreatitis and poor nutrient absorption, and diarrhoea, the condition generally responds well to supplementary enzymes and dietary changes.

Due to their distinctive facial structure, where the mule is approximately one-third the total length of the face, Boxers are categorized as a brachycephalic breed, and some dogs are vulnerable to related health issues. The most notable of these are Boxer ulcers, a corneal issue that can be suffered by any breed but is

especially prevalent in the Boxer, and brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome, a condition which causes heavy breathing and impacts the ability to exercise. Fortunately, as the Boxer is only mildly brachycephalic, the latter condition is rare, and Boxers are, in reality, seldom impeded by their facial structure.

PERSONALITY

Action is a key part of a Boxer’s life. The breed gives their best when given space and lots of activity to keep their brain busy. Keen to please and highly receptive to training, the breed can excel in dog sports, and many Boxers are major competitors on the agility course.

Boxers brim with energy and enthusiasm, especially during their long puppyhood, and lengthy walks or large gardens are a must. Mere movement is not enough on its own, however. Boxers love human companionship and will respond especially well to active play, so buy some balls and toys and set aside daily time together.

TAKE HOME MESSAGE

If you can match his energy requirements and want a partner to accompany you on your adventures, look no further than the Boxer. With the right mental and physical stimulation, a Boxer is your friend for life.

DID YOU KNOW?

A Boxer has never been awarded the Best in Show rosette at Crufts but has had more luck on the other side of the Atlantic. The breed has been victorious at the Westminster Dog Show – the most prestigious in the USA – on four occasions, in 1947, 1949, 1951 and 1970.

Dogs can do all kinds of strange behaviours, and while sometimes these oddities are just a personality quirk, many actually communicate serious health or welfare issues that need our attention. Eating rocks is one such issue that needs our urgent attention. Here we look at the causes of rock-eating, the dangers and what exactly we can do to manage the issue.

WHY DOES MY DOG EAT ROCKS?

Dogs eating rocks is a surprisingly common occurrence with several possible causes. These include:

1. Boredom is a major reason for dogs eating rocks. Dogs without sufficient stimulation in their lives can resort to playing with and ultimately eating rocks as a form of entertainment.

2. Pica (eating non-food items) due to a nutritional deficiency, certain medications (such as prednisolone or anti-seizure drugs) or liver disease can lead to dogs eating rocks.

3. Teething in puppies can cause them to chew on rocks and even eat them in an attempt to ease the pain in their gums.

4. General anxiety, separation anxiety and various compulsive disorders can cause dogs to eat abnormal objects like rocks. These disorders are usually accompanied by other symptoms as well, making them easier to identify.

5. Spills on rocks from dog-enticing things like oil, food or blood.

WHAT TO DO ABOUT THE ISSUE?

If you notice your dog eating rocks, the first step is to phone your vet and let them know. This is important due to the potentially serious medical conditions that could be causing the issue and the serious medical conditions that can result from your dog ingesting rocks.

If your vet feels the issue doesn’t require their management, you can try the following methods to prevent your dogs from chewing on rocks.

Ways to prevent dogs from chewing on rocks include:

1. Adding a multivitamin to the diet to address any deficiencies.

2. Giving your dog safe items to chew like dental sticks, frozen Kong treats and rawhide treats.

3. Enriching your dog’s daily activities with exercise, training and mental stimulation.

4. Providing interactive toys for his entertainment.

5. Monitoring your dog outside when rocks are present and limiting access to rocks.

6. Minimising stress in your dog’s life. NOTE: Anxiety in our pets is a serious issue and needs addressing with a vet and a qualified behaviourist.

7. Employing training techniques for basic obedience, i.e. teaching the command ‘leave it’ and rewarding your dog when they leave the rock or other dangerous item and come to you.

8. In extreme cases, a basket muzzle may be required when dogs are outside due to the potentially life-threatening consequences of rock eating.

require surgical removal, and swallowing rocks can lead to gastrointestinal blockage needing surgical removal from the gastrointestinal tract.

The sooner you can get your dog to the vet, the better in these instances. It is much easier for a vet to remove a rock from the stomach by using endoscopy or inducing vomiting than removing it from the GI tract, which will likely require surgery.

NOTE

Rocks can remain in the stomach for days or even months and cause limited symptoms like occasional vomiting and decreased appetite. This becomes a life-threatening emergency once the rock moves through and blocks the intestine. A rock blockage can lead to rupture of the intestine, which quickly leads to death.

TAKE HOME MESSAGE

Rock eating in dogs is relatively common but still very dangerous. Monitor your dog or puppy for signs of this behaviour, and if you see it, chat to your vet to plan out the best course of action. In some cases, the situation will be as simple as more exercise and stimulation, and in others, nutritional deficiencies and more complex behavioural issues may need to be addressed.

T E R R I O R Y DOG BEHAVIOUR

TURMOIL

Urine marking is natural for dogs, who experience the world through their noses. For them, leaving a mark in their house is a clear sign that they have been there and that this is their territory.

Of course, as humans, we do not enjoy this particular behaviour, so in order to live harmoniously together, we need to find ways of managing the issue.

In this article, we go through five key steps in addressing the issue. Crucially, we must note up front that punishment is NEVER the answer. Punishing your dog for urinating inside will only create fear and, ultimately, increase the likelihood of urinating indoors and other problematic behaviours increasing in frequency over time. Instead, the key to stopping a dog from marking in the house is to understand their motivation for peeing inside and consistently use positive reinforcement training methods to prevent the marking behaviour. If your dog pees in the house, simply take them outside, reward them for urinating outside, and follow the five steps below.

MYTH BUSTING

Many assume that only male dogs, specifically intact male dogs, mark their territory. This isn’t the case. Both male and female dogs mark with urine, regardless of whether they are spayed or neutered. Some female dogs will even lift their leg to mark!

WHY IS MY DOG PEEING IN THE HOUSE?

The main reasons for dogs marking in the house are:

• To tell other dogs or animals the house is part of his territory.

• To communicate and manage his feelings about changes or stressors in the house, e.g. rearranging furniture, new schedules etc.

• Due to a medical condition, such as a urinary tract infection.

• Due to a smell trigger, such as urine on the carpet.

STEP 1: Rule out a medical issue

It is essential to rule out a medical condition as the cause of the marking. Take your dog to the vet, who can do a full examination and rule out any health conditions that might cause your dog to urinate indoors.

STEP 2: Identify your dog’s specific triggers

Pay attention to when and where your dog starts to mark. Is it somewhere new? Is it when another dog has been in the house? Is it on new furniture? Once you can anticipate the behaviour, you are better placed to interrupt it or prevent it entirely.

STEP 3: Supervise your dog

Keep your dog in sight as much as possible when he is indoors. This is particularly important in the areas he has been known to mark. If he looks like he is shaping to pee, intervene before he acts by redirecting him.

STEP 4: Redirect your dog

If you notice your dog sniffing the wall or furniture, use treats and toys to redirect him away from that area. As soon as he moves away from the area, praise and encourage him with treats before taking him outside to pee. Redirecting your dog before marking is far more effective than trying to interrupt him once he starts.

STEP 5: Manage the environment

Baby gates can be handy for keeping your dog in sight when in the house. Daily routine management is also vital. When your dog wakes from a nap or seems restless, take him outside to pee. Back inside, continue supervising and redirect your dog away from the area he wants to mark.

It is also a good idea to put small, easy-towash rugs and towels in areas where your dog is prone to marking until the issue has been addressed. Any accidents must be cleaned up thoroughly as if your dog smells pee, he is likely to continue to try and urinate in that location. The better you can clean and neutralise the urine smell, the less likely he is to continue marking there.

Another helpful trick can be to create an outlet for natural marking behaviour by giving your dog plenty of space and opportunity to mark in appropriate locations outside. This means not rushing your dog while walking and giving him lots of chances to stop and pee.

TAKE HOME MESSAGE

It is important to remember that marking is a natural behaviour for dogs of both genders. Our goal has to be to redirect this behaviour and reward our dogs for peeing in the correct place (i.e. outside) to ultimately minimise and ideally eradicate any marking indoors.

WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW

CANINE COGNITIVE DYSFUNCTION

Canine cognitive dysfunction is a behavioural syndrome affecting any breed of dog over the age of 10 years. It is very similar to dementia in humans both in terms of the physical symptoms and what is happening in the brain.

THE PATHOLOGY

In canine cognitive dysfunction, the connections between the billions of nerve cells that make up the brain are disrupted.

Research has found that dogs with canine cognitive dysfunction, on top of this normal brain atrophy, have a build-up of an abnormal protein (beta-amyloid) in their brains. This protein build-up has been shown to result in decreased signalling between nerve cells in the brain. In dogs with canine cognitive dysfunction, the neurotransmitters in the brain that help send signals are also degraded by high levels of a compound called monoamine oxidase B (MAOB).

PREVALENCE

Studies have shown that around 30% of dogs aged 11 to 12 and 70% aged 15 to 16 show at least one sign associated with this progressive condition.

Sadly, studies have also highlighted that some dogs as young as seven can start to show these changes.

Dogs with epilepsy and dogs that lead a sedentary lifestyle have been shown to be at higher risk for developing canine cognitive dysfunction.

SYMPTOMS

The acronym DISHAA has been used to describe the signs and symptoms of canine cognitive dysfunction:

• Disorientation – This can involve your dog getting lost on familiar walks, not recognizing people or surroundings or staring blankly at walls.

• Interactions – You may notice that your dog interacts differently with people and other animals. Some dogs can become much more needy, and others can become more isolated and even irritable.

• Sleep-wake cycle changes – Your dog may show abnormal sleep/wake cycles, such as sleeping more during the day but being awake and restless at night.

• House soiling, learning and memory

– Some dogs can begin to urinate or defecate indoors when they were previously toilet trained. You may also find it hard to get your dog's attention, or they may seem distracted and find learning new tasks difficult.

• Activity levels – There may be an overall decrease in activity levels or a decreased interest in activities they previously enjoyed. On the other hand, some dogs with increasing age can become restless and unsettled. These dogs may wander aimlessly or develop repetitive behaviours such as licking themselves, bedding or flooring, chewing, gazing or circling.

• Anxiety – Anxiety can increase, which might show as vocalizations (barking for no reason) or new fears or phobias, such as not wanting to go out for a walk or get in the car. Some dogs can also become more noise sensitive.

DIAGNOSIS

If you suspect your dog is suffering from canine cognitive dysfunction, take them to your vet for a full examination and diagnosis so that any other medical conditions can be ruled out, such as liver problems, certain cancers or arthritic changes. Your vet may wish to do further investigations like blood tests, ultrasounds and X-Rays to rule out these other conditions.

TREATMENT

Unfortunately, there is no cure for canine cognitive dysfunction as it is a progressive, degenerative illness, and your dog will require care and management for the rest of his life.

However, several tools are at your disposal that may help improve your dog's quality of life. These include:

• Medication – There are some prescription medications available that can be effective in helping with canine cognitive dysfunction. For example, selegiline is a prescription medication geared to dogs with canine cognitive dysfunction. This medication inhibits MAOB, allowing neurotransmitters to remain in the brain and signal as normal. Similarly, some dogs with canine cognitive dysfunction can benefit from anti-anxiety medications if anxiety-related symptoms are a major factor in the dog's condition.

• Diet – There have been clinical studies performed which have revealed that an anti-oxidant-rich diet improves the learning ability of older dogs, resulting in a decrease in the symptoms of canine cognitive dysfunction. Ideally, a senior dog's diet should include Omega 3s for cognitive health, vitamin E to help protect cell membranes from damage, vitamin C for maintaining oxidative protection, and L-Carnitine and fruits and vegetables rich in flavonoids and carotenoids. Various pet food companies on the market have tailored complete diets for dogs with brain ageing to help support normal brain function.

• Neutraceuticals – There is now a range of supplements that may help enhance or preserve brain function, so please ask your vet for more information.

• Making your home more accessible and safer for your senior dog. For instance, adding night lights can help your senior dog to navigate better in the dark. Potty pads near doors and in high traffic areas can also give your dog a place to go if they can't wait until you wake up. Orthopaedic foam beds (with washable covers) can also make sleep more comfortable and thus more restful for older dogs.

• Providing plenty of mental stimulation – Physical activity improves cognitive function and lowers the risk of impairment. This includes short walks in new places that can offer new sights and smells (or if your older dog finds it difficult to exercise, try and find a stroller or buggy so that they can still accompany you).

Olfactory stimulation (using their nose) is also a powerful way of stimulating the brain, and this can be as simple as hiding treats in the home or garden or using food puzzles to get those brains working.

• Playing – Gentle play also provides mental stimulation, interaction and opportunities for bonding. You can also try to teach a few new tricks as this provides added stimulation – just make sure your dog is enjoying this and not finding it anxiety-provoking or fearinducing.

• Reducing stress as much as possible

– keep stress to a minimum to avoid causing further oxidative stress to the brain tissue.

• Complementary therapies –Massage, for example, will help your senior dog by addressing any tight, sore muscles, allowing him to relax fully. This can help to reduce anxiety and enhance a feeling of general well-being.

LIFE EXPECTANCY

Since canine cognitive dysfunction is a degenerative process that occurs in a dog's senior years, life expectancy can be tricky to predict. If a dog is otherwise healthy, then dementia will eventually diminish your dog's quality of life, but no specific timeframe has been established for this.

The best way to monitor your dog's health and cognitive function is to work with your vet and keep track of your dog's quality of life.

VET CHECK-UPS

Your vet will evaluate your dog periodically to monitor their progression of symptoms. However, if you notice any behavioural changes in your dog, you must notify your vet immediately. In geriatric dogs, any change can be serious, so it's important to flag this with your vet at the first sign of change. For stable patients, twice-yearly check-ups may suffice unless new problems arise.

TAKE-HOME MESSAGE

Whilst none of us wants to see our dog deteriorate cognitively, canine cognitive dysfunction is not the end of the road. Adapt to your dog's new needs, and you will still have many happy moments ahead with your best friend, allowing you both to enjoy his twilight years.

POSITIVE REINF RCEMENT

training

THE PRINCIPLES

Positive reinforcement training uses a reward to reinforce a desired behaviour. This reward makes it more likely that the behaviour will be repeated, making positive reinforcement one of the most powerful tools for shaping or changing your dog's behaviour.

In this article, we give you some basic principles and guidelines to follow when using positive reinforcement training with your dog.

GOOD TIMING IS ESSENTIAL

Correct timing is vital when employing positive reinforcement techniques. The reward must come immediately (within seconds) of the desired behaviour being performed for your dog to reliably associate the treat with the proper action.

reinforcement training, the clicker is used as a 'bridge signal' between the behaviour and the treat. This means that the click happens within seconds of the behaviour to 'mark' the correct behaviour, allowing a little more room for error in the timing of your treat giving. Essentially, the click tells the dog that the behaviour he performed was correct and that food is on its way.

By way of example, in positive reinforcement without a bridge signal, when the dog sits, the treat must be given immediately to form the association. In clicker training, a click is given when the dog sits, and the trainer can then reach into their treat pouch to get the treat and give it to the dog, and the dog will still know that the sit was the right behaviour, even though there was a delay.

KEEP IT SHORT

With almost all training, it is better to keep the sessions short and repeat them more often than to have long sessions infrequently.

Equally important is to keep the commands you use in training short. Don't speak in sentences, but rather use one-word commands like 'sit' or 'down'.

TOP TIP

You need to reduce your dog's food in line with the number of treats you are using in training. For very foodmotivated dogs, you may even be able to use kibble from his meal ration (if you feed it) as the treats.

CONSISTENCY IS KEY

Consistency in rewarding good behaviours and ignoring bad behaviours is important for the lessons to sink in. You can create confusion if you sometimes reward for a particular behaviour but other times do not.

Consistency also refers to the fact that everybody training the dog must use the same cues and commands; otherwise, the dog may become confused. Keep your commands consistent, and your dog is far more likely to understand what you are asking.

SHAPING BEHAVIOUR

It can take time for dogs to learn certain behaviours. In these instances, you may need to use a technique called 'shaping', which involves reinforcing something approximating the desired response and gradually requiring a more accurate rendition to get the reward.

For example, if you are teaching your dog to shake paws, you may initially reward them just for lifting a paw off the ground, then for lifting it higher, then for touching your hand, then for

letting you hold their paw and finally for 'shaking paws' with you.

TYPES OF REWARDS

Positive reinforcement most commonly uses food treats, but praise, petting or play can also work. Since most dogs are highly food-motivated, however, treats tend to be most effective.

WON'T I END UP WITH A FOOD-CRAZED DOG?

Context is the key here. If you feed your dog from the dinner table, they will likely lurk for handouts at every meal. If, on the other hand, you are using treats during a training session, your dog will know they are working for a reward.

TREAT RULES

When your dog is learning a new behaviour, reward them every time they demonstrate the behaviour. This is called continuous reinforcement and helps to really cement the behaviour in your dog's repertoire. Once your dog has reliably learned the behaviour, you can switch to more intermittent reinforcement:

· At first, reward with a treat four out of every five times he performs the behaviour. Over time, reward three out

of five times and so on, until you're only rewarding occasionally. Don't decrease the rewards too quickly, or you risk frustrating or confusing your dog.

· Continue to praise him every time he does the behaviour.

· Vary how often you provide the reward so your dog doesn't figure out that he only has to respond every other time, for example. He will soon learn that if he keeps responding, eventually, he'll get what he wants – your praise and an occasional treat.

When you understand positive reinforcement in this way, you can see that it is not necessary to carry a bag full of treats forever. Your dog will soon be performing desirable behaviours for verbal praise and because they know that, occasionally, they'll get a treat too.

THE BENEFITS OF USING POSITIVE REINFORCEMENT

Positive reinforcement is a great way to teach your dog cues and desired behaviours. Food is a powerful motivator, as is praise, and your dog will likely enjoy his positive reinforcement sessions with you. Here at  DQ, we advocate that only positive reinforcement methods are used in training and advise all dog owners to look into trainers using positive reinforcement-based methods.

DID YOU KNOW?

Two Boxers called Punch and Judy were awarded the Dickin Medal for conspicuous gallantry or devotion to duty (the animal Victoria Cross) for their service in Israel in 1946. The commendation notes read: “Saved the lives of two British Officers by warning them of and attacking an armed terrorist who was stealing upon them unawares.”

DQ GOES DOG-SPOTTING

AT SHONGWENI CLUB, KZN

PHOTOGRAPHY: MICHAELA MACKIE

Spirocerca Lup i

T HE SILENTKILLER

Parasites can strike at any time and there’s none more dangerous than the ‘silent killer’ Spirocerca lupi

Over the last two decades, global reports of spirocercosis in dogs have increased, but awareness about this deadly parasite has not followed suit.

ABOUT

Spirocerca lupi is a parasite of dogs. It is associated with the development of nodules in the oesophagus that may become cancerous, and often prove fatal.

Adult Spirocerca lupi are bright red worms, 40mm (male) to 70mm (female) long. Dogs are infected with the parasite by eating an intermediate host (usually a dung beetle) or a paratenic host (e.g. chickens, reptiles, rabbits or rodents).

Once the parasite is ingested the larvae migrate to the aorta, the biggest artery in the body, where they usually stay for approximately three months. The final preferred location of adult parasites is the oesophageus where they form nodules in the wall. Eggs are passed in faeces five to six months after infection. Adult parasites can live for over two years.

DIGESTIVE SYSTEM OF THE DOG

CLINICAL SIGNS OF INFECTION

Most dogs with Spirocerca lupi infection show no clinical signs. However, when signs are present they include vomiting, coughing, weight loss, struggling to eat dry food, excessive salivation, and regurgitation. When oesophageal lesions are very large (often once they have become cancerous), dogs may have difficulty swallowing and may vomit repeatedly after trying to eat. Affected dogs may salivate profusely and eventually become emaciated.

Associated complications of the condition include cancer of the oesophagus, enlargement of the

glands in the neck, thickening of the limb bones near the chest and issues with the spine in the chest area. Sometimes the worms can migrate causing neurological issues and if they get into the small or large intestine they can cause loss of appetite, weakness, vomiting and diarrhoea. Occasionally, a dog will die suddenly as a result of a massive bleed into the chest cavity after rupture of the aorta by the developing worms.

The disease is most commonly observed in large breeds and adult, stray, urban and hunting dogs, rather than household pets, small breeds and puppies.

Esophagus Liver Stomach Duodenum

Large intestine

Small intestine Spleen

Anus Cecum

Tongue Pharynx

DIAGNOSIS

Diagnosis involves the identification of nodules using imaging and finding Spirocerca lupi eggs in the faeces. Endoscopy (passing a camera down the oesophagus into the stomach) may reveal a nodule or adult worm in the oesophagus and this method of diagnosis is considered the gold standard for diagnosis. A presumptive diagnosis can be made through X-Ray images, which will show a dense mass in the oesophagus. CT is another useful diagnostic test with much higher sensitivity than X-Ray.

Diagnosis is assisted by finding the characteristic small, elongated eggs that contain larvae in the faeces. Eggs are most likely to be detected by faecal sedimentation. Other methods of faecal testing may be used but they are less sensitive.

Sadly, many infections with Spirocerca lupi are not diagnosed until post-mortem.

TREATMENT

Your vet will need to assist you with a treatment plan for your dog.

This will be formulated based on endoscopy and X-Ray findings to evaluate how effective treatment is likely to be. Surgical removal is usually unsuccessful because of the large areas of the oesophagus involved, but may be attempted in some cases. Sometimes endoscopic laser-assisted excision can be performed, but this is only available in specialist facilities.

Sadly, in more advanced cases, treatment is not possible based on the extent of the disease.

PREVENTION

In endemic areas, dogs should be prevented from eating dung beetles, frogs, mice, lizards etc and must not be fed raw chicken.

It is also important to regularly remove dog faeces from the garden.

In Europe, monthly treatment with certain topical dewormers has been approved as a preventative treatment.

NOTE

Spirocerca lupi is often called the ‘silent killer’ due to its ability to cause rapid death with no outward signs of illness. By the time your pet shows symptoms of the parasite infestation, it may be too late.

TAKE HOME MESSAGE

Due to the deadly nature of Spirocerca Lupi, we advise all dog owners to discuss this condition with their vet.

COMMON NEUROLOGICAL AND ORTHOPAEDIC CONDITIONS, CAN REHABILITATION HELP?

DEGENERATIVE MYELOPATHY (DM) AND REHABILITATION

In the second part of our series, we’ll explore another common neurological condition, Degenerative Myelopathy, or DM.

Text | Bianca Rootman

ABOUT

Degenerative Myelopathy is a slow degenerative disease that affects the central nervous system. The spinal cord segments in the thoracic spine are most commonly affected. The condition commonly affects older dogs, eight years and up. The breeds most widely predisposed are German Shepherds, Rhodesian Ridgebacks, Cardigan and Pembroke Corgis, Boxers, and a mix with some of these breeds in them.

The disease is passed down as an autosomal recessive trait. This means that if both parents test positive for the gene, they are both at risk of developing the disease and passing it down to their offspring. If only one parent tests positive, there is still a risk of the gene being passed down to the offspring. But if both parents test negative, neither dog is at risk of developing the disease or passing the gene down. The disease can be genetically tested for, and in most cases, with responsible breeding, it can be prevented from occurring.

The disease progresses slowly, and physical symptoms only appear once there is signi cant progression; hence why it is commonly found in older dogs. The symptoms are seen in the hindlimbs and consist of swaying, staggering, dif culty in turning and scuf ng of the toes, which often leads to wounds. The disease is not painful in itself. The progression to being non-ambulatory once symptoms appear is relatively rapid, usually around six to nine months. Once your companion becomes non-ambulatory, they start to struggle with forelimb paralysis, faecal and urinary incontinence, and eventually, there can be brainstem involvement. Unfortunately, no medication is known to slow down or cure the disease. One of the few remedies that has been proven to be effective is physiotherapy.

THE ROLE OF PHYSIOTHERAPY

Our rehabilitation goals with companions suffering from Degenerative Myelopathy are to attempt to slow down the loss of muscle strength and mass and to preserve limb use. In order to keep these companions up and mobile for as long as possible, we use active and passive exercises, massage, and hydrotherapy.

The active and passive exercises work to maintain muscle mass and range of motion in the joints and assist with the neurological component of the disease by helping our companions to be as aware of their bodies as possible.

Massage helps keep compensatory muscle tension under control as a lot of strain is placed on the dog’s forelimbs as the hindlimbs weaken.

One of the best tools for these cases is hydrotherapy. The water supports their bodies whilst they exercise, and the resistance of the water builds muscular strength. There is also a lot of relief involved in taking some weight and strain off our companion’s bodies when they are struggling to move. Warm water also soothes aching muscles and joints.

Some other handy items to make use of are booties to protect the paws from scuffing and forming open wounds, non-slip booties to minimise slipping, a Biko™ brace or Dorsi-flex assist™ to assist with movement and limb placement, and slings and mobility carts once mobility becomes an issue.

FINAL THOUGHTS

Degenerative Myelopathy is not a nice disease for any companion to struggle with, and there is unfortunately not much one can do once the symptoms appear, but making use of physiotherapy and rehabilitation is one way to prolong your companion’s mobility and to keep them happy and comfortable for as long as possible.

ANIMAL HEALTH AND HYDRO RYNFIELD

154 President Brand Str, Rynfield, Benoni

Contact: 083 230 2188

Email: animalhealths@gmail.com

ANIMAL HEALTH AND HYDRO PRETORIA EAST

218 Mark St, Grootfontein County Estates, Pretoria East, Grootfontein Country Estates

Contact: 074 251 4410

Email: ahahpretoria@gmail.com

Licking is a natural behaviour for dogs. For them, it is a way of grooming, bonding, and showing affection. Your dog may lick you to express their love and appreciation for you, to get your attention, to greet you when you arrive home, to help soothe themselves if they are feeling anxious, to show empathy if they are worried about you or just because you taste good to them (particularly after exercise when you are sweaty and have lots of salt on your skin!)

DID YOU KNOW?

Licking plays an important part in how dogs bond with others, causing them to release dopamine and endorphins that help them to feel relaxed, calm and happy.

Excessive licking can indicate that your dog is anxious or in pain, so don’t ignore licking, especially if the frequency with which your dog does it suddenly increases. Your vet will be best placed to advise you on whether or not you should be concerned.

to recharge and repair, so letting your pet enjoy their rest is important.

The general rule is that adult dogs can sleep for up to 15 hours a day without it being a cause for concern. However, all dogs are

more lethargic when awake, it is definitely worth chatting to your vet.

Ultimately, there are many factors that determine a pet’s sleeping schedule, but if you notice any changes, chat with your vet.

Products we love

PaleoPet Pure 100% Green Beef Tripe for Dogs

Humans may find tripe to be somewhat of an acquired taste (and smell), but dogs absolutely love it! Our tripe has been thoroughly washed and cleaned for you, while retaining all the nutrition of unbleached tripe. It’s easy to serve and store and has so many health benefits for adult and senior dogs especially.

Tripe is rich in trace minerals, while moderate in protein and fat. It is a great complementary raw food addition to a diet for dogs who may struggle with constipation or need foods that are easier to digest. Tripe doesn’t contain any bone, but still maintains a perfect calcium phosphorus balance, which is rare for animal protein without bone content.

Tripe can be used as a basis for a ketogenic diet for dogs with cancer or epilepsy where one should feed low

to no carbohydrate, moderate protein and high fat. Tripe can also entice dogs who may not feel all that well and are reticent to eat.

Our 100% Green Beef Tripe (and nothing else) is made from the best quality local beef with no preservatives, colourants or artificial flavourants.

The PaleoPet Pure range is FSA Food Safety certified and DALRRD registered. Also available in convenient, pre-frozen 1,5 Kg and 750g tubs or as a box of 12 individually wrapped 100g Patties. The tubs are reusable, recyclable and PBA-free.

Products can be purchased online at www.paleopetpure.com and delivered to your door or bought at selected retailers.

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