(Re)interpreting the Sartorial Self
HAWA STWODAH MFA Assistant Professor
catalyst
event comment
context
AFGHANISTAN
Late1970’s/ Early 80s
1978
Communist faction seized power in a coup, overthrowing and killing President Sardar Mohammed Daoud Khan.
1979 American Ambassador Adolph Dubs is killed. The United States cuts off assistance to Afghanistan.
The USSR invades Afghanistan on Dec. 24.
conflict = forced migration
https://www.pbs.org/newshour/politics/asia-jan-june11-timeline-afghanistan
4.6.22
AFGHANISTAN waves of https://media.nationalgeographic.org/assets/file/afghan_MIG.pdf 6 MILLION sovietinvasion u.s.+allied invasion civilunrest sovietwithdrawaltalibantakeovertaliban fall u.s.+alliedwithdrawal external Afghanistan: conflict and displacement 1978 to 2001 by Hiram A Ruiz Forced Migration Review 1979- 1989 100,000 external 700,000 external 1992-2001 2021
https://media.nationalgeographic.org/assets/file/afghan_MIG.pdf 6 MILLION sovietinvasion u.s.+allied invasion civilunrest sovietwithdrawaltalibantakeovertaliban fall u.s.+alliedwithdrawal external Afghanistan: conflict and displacement 1978 to 2001 by Hiram A Ruiz Forced Migration Review 1979- 1989 100,000 external 700,000 external 1992-2001 2021
AFGHANISTAN waves of
/refugee/ /immigrant/
/
/
displaced
“...dont worry, she’s very modern”
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“...dont worry, she’s very modern”
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context
prohibited
? am I ?
modern MODERN modern
ideasapparelactions
where were my ideas formed
education
EXPERIENCES environment
what was i wearing
veil LAYERS contemporary
HONEST FORTHRIGHT inquisitive
how was i acting
category category category
diaspora
global north
designers diaspora
https://www.migrationpolicy.org/article/afghan-immigrants-united-states https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Afghan_diaspora
Afghanistan + 1,000,000 + 100,000 + 10,000 + 1,000
Anjilla Seddeqi
Marina Khan Avizeh
https://news.trust.org/item/20210921123431-55efu/
Zarif Design Zolaykha Sherzad
https://www.zarifdesign.com/kabul https://www.vogue.it/en/vogue-talents/news/2017/06/23/zolaykha-sherzad-zarif-design-afghanistan/
Anjilla Seddeqi
Marina Khan* Avizeh
Zarif Design Zolaykha Sherzad
architecture
switzerland united kingdom
psychology
not born in afghanistan
australia international law *
Mohammad Aziz
Rumi Rose Samira Atash
Rumi Rose Samira Atash
united states
architecture + fashion design
Mohammad Aziz
united states marketing + fashion design
Mohammad Aziz
Question for Panelist
Diaspora Design Spaces + Places: (Re)interpreting the Sartorial Self.
Tell me a little bit about yourself. Describe yourself.
When did you realize you wanted to go into design?and how did you go about following that path?
Describe your design aesthetic.
Rumi
Rose Samira Atash
What has your career path been like?
Have there been any pivotal points in your design journey?
How do you incorporate your culture and heritage into your designs?
What has been the most challenging aspect in your life or path, in relations to being an immigrant?
authentic adaptivespeculative
Rumi Rose Samira Atash
Rumi Rose Samira Atash
Describe your design aesthetic. I love colors, prints, embroideries and vintage. I tend to mix a bit of East and West and love finding stories behind what I wear. I love finding treasures at consignment, vintage and thrift shops. It's my pastime!
Have there been any pivotal points in your design journey? I would have to say that after September 11th, 2001, I saw how the world viewed Afghans and Muslims, and I wanted to be a voice to show the world the "Beauty of the East" (which was the name of a series I did then and the name of my blog on www.samiraatash.com). I still work actively to try and open people's minds, educate and change stereotypes in the work I do.
What has been the most challenging aspect in your life or path, in relations to being an immigrant? Living in the West as a woman that has strong ties to her ancestral culture and religion isn’t always easy. I'm first generation immigrant which means my generation had it tough at home. My parents were strict! My sisters and I couldn't do anything because of the pressures of what the "community would think". Young Afghan girls these days in America don't realize how much more easy they have it. I also never felt I completely fit into society here, but I appreciate the opportunities I have been given here such as education and business.
Also, the myth is that women in the West are not oppressed, but we can be in other ways such as the pressures to look young, look physically fit, all while juggling work, relationship and being a mother. As I get older, I am starting to realize many myths about what feminism should be. I find women in places in the world like Afghanistan who still have courage and hope are inspiring to me.
I don’t believe there is anywhere on Earth that is easy for an immigrant, but some have it harder than others. I appreciate all that God has given to me. Having appreciation for the good and bad is what matters.
Mohammad Aziz
tradition modernfuture
Thank you
HAWA STWODAH MFA Assistant Professor