Huatulco Eye Living and Loving the Oaxacan Riviera Issue No. 7 August, 2011
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Mexico City moment By Heidi Hough
Chiles&Chocolate Food Services Huatulco, MĂŠxico
Cooking Classes
Oaxacan Cuisine
Recipe Manual Included
Small Groups
Free Gift Bag
Hands - on
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Instruction in English
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Along the Riviera... Along the Riviera...
Winners of Huatulco Idol 2011 1st place Aby 2nd place Gaby- Gaby 3rd place Rodolfo Rocha 4th place Illeanissima
Gaby accepts her prize courtesy of Yamaha Music
Jose Angel Del Signo Guembe awards raffle prize to Kathy Taylor. www.virtualgallery.com/pepe_del_signo_a21747/a_ojo_de_aguila_s4668
Hanging out!
Peace and Love!
Huatulco by Night Happy Birthday Super Larry!
EDITOR`S LETTER Without travel I would have wound up a little ignorant white Southern female, which was not my idea of a good life. - Lauren Hutton Long lazy days of summer for most of us; kids are out of school, receiving visitors and planning vacations. There is something about getting away from your everyday routines - we open our eyes a little wider with wonderment when seeing new things. Intrinsically linked with travel is history, learning about how a place has come to be the way it is, whether it is a small village on the coast or the hustle and bustle of an old colonial city. Travel broadens perspective and understanding. Delving into history helps us to notice the details; the meaning of a mural, the tradition in a design on a rug, the importance of ceremony. In this issue we explore the past to better understand the present. Experiencing the transformation of traditional Mexican cuisine with modern techniques we need to appreciate the process of traditional Mexican cuisine. Artist Emi Winter's pieces show a heavy Oaxacan influence in a whole new way and with the new Museum of Memory and Tolerance we look back to move forward with greater compassion to the strangers who have yet to become friends. Open your eyes and enjoy!
Monarch in Danger! According to an article in the science section of the New York Times on Tuesday July 11, the use of genetically modified corn (produced by Monsanto) in the mid-west is threatening the Monarch butterfly population. www.nytimes.com/2011/07/12/science/12butterfly.html
Monarchs have co-evolved with milkweeds, which have a special organ or platform on which the butterflies lay their eggs. Milkweeds are essential to the Monarchs. The Midwest tends to have the highest numbers of monarchs since these are the areas where the most milkweeds grow but they are common elsewhere and should not be removed or poisoned. Since transgenic corn is resistant to Roundup herbicide (glyphosate) also manufactured by Monsanto, the herbicide is sprayed liberally, eliminating all the other so-called weed species. One man's weed is another species' source of life. Let's keep the modified corn and herbicides out of Oaxaca, the recognized birthplace of corn. By Julie Etra
See you next month,
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Editor: Jane Bauer Writers: Marcia Chaiken, Jan Chaiken, Julie Etra, Gerry Freund, Kathy Taylor, Doreen Woelfel, Brooke Gazer, Alfredo Pati単o, Carole Reedy, Alvin Starkman Contributors:Birgit Adamofsky, Heidi Hough Layout Manager: Johnny Gonzalez Advertising Manager: Alfredo Patino Opinions and words are those of the author and do not reflect the opinion of Huatulco Eye. To be a collaborator please send us an email huatulcoeye@yahoo.com
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Layover in Mexico City? Lucky You! By Carole Reedy
S
o you are on your way to the tranquil paradise
Turibus: Take a delightful and refreshing ride on the
you can catch one of the finals games in August.
of the Oaxacan Riviera, but dreading your
double decker Turibus for an excellent way to see a lot
Check the website www.diablos.com.mx to verify the
layover in México City? (or as locals call it, D.F.-
of the city in a short period of time. It literally will
dates. The games take place at Foro Sol and the best
Distrito Federal.) Contrary to what you might imagine,
provide you with a birds-eye view of Centro D.F. The
seat in the house costs about $7 USD. Or check out the
a day or two in México City will not only be an enjoyable
three-hour tour takes you through Centro Historico,
bleacher seats for a mere 10 pesos (less than a dollar).
surprise that rivals any of the great European capitals,
Polanco, Condesa, Roma, as well as Chapultepec Park.
You've never seen a bullfight but your interest is
it will enhance your appreciation of the rich culture of
The audio, in English and Spanish, provides a solid feel
piqued?
this diversified country.
for the architecture and history of these areas. You
March, but during the summer months you'll find the
And, you will find the
The season runs from November through
inhabitants friendly and helpful.
can hop on and off at the various stops from 9am to
novilleros-- young men and woman aspiring to become
Instead of hibernating in an expensive hotel room at
9pm.
full matadors--in the Plaza México every Sunday at
the airport, hop into an “authorized taxi” for the half-
What do I do with the kids? Children are the heart of
4:00 pm sharp (the only event in México that starts on
hour drive to the Centro Historico, where there are
Méxican family and society, and the city is vigilant
time!). Ticket prices range from $5 to 20 USD.
several reasonably priced hotels. A personal favorite is
about providing activities for children of all ages.
(www.lamexico.com.mx)
the Hotel Gillow, two blocks from the Zócalo. Ask for a
Chapultepec Park in itself is a child's paradise, with its
Is the city safe? That's the question we hear most and
sixth floor room with a patio (about $70 USD for a
paddle boats and the hands-on children's museum
the answer is yes. If you've been to México before, you
double, $50 for a single) and enjoy the panoramic view
Papalote Museo del Niño. La Feria, located in the park,
already know about the generosity and kindness of the
from your balcony.
There are cheaper choices just
is an old-fashioned amusement park, complete with
Méxican people.
around the corner, but this hotel brings the best value
rides for young and old. Stop in at the Chapultepec
measures you would if visiting Chicago, Madrid, Hong
for the money.
Zoo to view its giant pandas, endangered Méxican grey
Kong, or Buenos Aires.
In DF, practice the same security
First things first: Tiempo Libre Buy a copy of the small
wolf, and the hairless Xoloitzcuinte, the only surviving
As you depart for your flight to the coast, we guarantee
magazine Tiempo Libre (Free Time) for 9 pesos at any
dog species from pre-Hispanic times.
you'll be planning return visits to DF. Start making
kiosk—they're on just about every corner. Published
Also for the young ones, the Auditorio Nacional
your list: the enchanting neighborhoods of San Ángel
each Thursday, it lists every cultural event in the city.
(located on one of the most beautiful boulevards in the
and Coyoacan,
the pyramids of Teotihuacan, the
(online at www.tiempolibre.com.mx)
world, Paseo de la Reforma) will offer the spectacular
floating flower boats of Xochimilco, the Chapultepec
If you just have a few hours for sightseeing, walk the
Peter Pan on Ice August 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 10, 11, 12, 13, and
Castle, the Basilica de Guadalupe, not to mention the
three short blocks from Hotel Gillow to the Zócalo,
14.(www.auditorio.com.mx).
international selection of fine restaurants...¡y más!
where you'll find: the Metropolitan Cathedral, the
Tickets, available through www.ticketmaster.com.mx,
National Palace (with the famous Diego Rivera murals
range from $5 to $40 USD.
lining the walls and staircase inside), as well as the
A baseball fan?
Templo Mayor, the ruins of the Aztec temple discovered
from March through July, with the finals taking place
The Méxican League season runs
Carole Reedy, lived on the Oaxaca Coast for 10 years, where she was Director of the Biblioteca de San Agustinillo.
Carole now lives in and thrives on the
in 1978 by electrical workers installing underground
in August. At this writing, the city's team--the Diablos
culture of México City. Look for more about México City
cables.
Rojos--will be in the playoffs July 30 and 31.
in
Also within walking distance is the white marble
Assuming they win those games (and I assure you they
carolina_reedy(at)yahoo.com
confection Palacio de Bellas Artes.
will!),
Here you can view
the murals of México's most respected artists--Diego Rivera, Rufino Tamayo, Jose Clemente Orozco, and David Siqueiros. Bellas Artes is also home of dance, orchestral concerts, opera, and art. Walk in any day (except Mondays) and you will find art exhibits and musical events galore. México City is chock full of museums, the majority being open Tuesday through Sunday from 10 am to 5 or 6 pm. Sundays are free to all, but the entrance fees on other days are reasonably priced, ranging from $2 to $5 USD. To whet your appetite,: The National Museum of Anthropology: The Museum of Modern Art, National Museum of Art, Rufino Tamayo Museum, Trotsky Museum, Frida Kahlo Museum, Diego Rivera Mural Museum, Museum of Economics, … the list goes on and on. Chamber music: Several of the museums in Centro (The National Museum of Art and Museum Jose Luis Cuevas, to name just two)
open their foyers on
Saturday and Sunday afternoons
for free chamber
music. Just walk in, take a seat, and enjoy a piano, violin, or string quartet. A relaxing way to rest your feet!
future
issues
of
Huatulco
Eye.
The Museum of Memory and Tolerance By Marcia and Jan Chaiken
T
he Museum of Memory and Tolerance (Memoria y Tolerancia) is one of the newest and most thought-provoking places to visit in Mexico City. In common with the US Holocaust Museum in Washington, DC, and Yad Vashem in Jerusalem, Israel, the museum leads the visitor through a personal experience of the systematic murder of millions of Jews and other groups by the Nazi government in Germany during World War II. However, this museum has a much broader scope and is dedicated to enhancing the visitor's understanding of all kinds of intolerance, promoting diversity, asking us challenging questions about genocide, and encouraging us to consider how we as individuals have a responsibility to take action today and prevent future occurrences. The museum's designers had a goal of promoting respect for diversity and combating apathy about intolerance based on ethnic, racial, religious, or national differences. Nearly all visitors will come to grips with the fact that they are members of some minority group (indeed, English-speakers in a museum in the capital of Mexico are a minority), and that every group is proud of its heritage. If you are from the US, you may suddenly become more aware that the Mexicans around you are much more respectful of you than a Mexican citizen is likely to experience in the US. Located in the historic center of Mexico City, on Avenida Juarez, the building is appropriately across a plaza from Mexico's Ministry of Foreign Relations and Family Courts. An architectural masterpiece in itself, the museum building is solemn but striking from the outside (where you may find temporary exhibits), while the interior's lighting, layout, and traffic flow are artfully matched to the message being conveyed. There is a high quality of artwork, presentation, and audio throughout the museum. At times it is a breathtakingly emotional experience. The visitor's tour starts on the top floor and gradually wends back down to the entrance. The historical sections explain what happened during the Holocaust in Europe, as well as in Rwanda, Guatemala, Cambodia, and Darfur. In some politically controversial cases, such as whether the Armenian massacres involved genocide, the issue is addressed frankly from different perspectives. The displays cover many aspects of the events, including governmental action, propaganda and lies, media coverage, and personal experiences of both victims and perpetrators, but not simply as a factual recitation of the past. Rather, each room that you pass through has a moral fervor that compels visitors of any age to recognize that genocide is just plain evil and wrong, and that words and images have the power to convey deadly falsehoods. Following the historical tour, the experience becomes more personal, asking the visitor to consider "Who am I?", "What groups do I belong to?". "What stereotypes are buried deep in my psyche?", and "What words do I use that are offensive to someone else?" It ends with positive and uplifting guidance as to how to promote tolerance, human rights, and recognize of the richness of diversity. At the end of the primary tour, the lower level offers rotating temporary art exhibitions. A gift shop is also provided. These may provide a needed change of pace. The museum is open 9am-6pm Monday-Friday, and 10am-7pm Saturdays and Sundays. Allow at least 3 hours for your visit. The entrance fee is 55 pesos plus (optionally) 15 pesos for a guide, with a 10 peso discount for students, teachers, and persons over 60 carrying documents from the Mexican government. The museum is not recommended for those under 15 years old, but they will be admitted with an adult. Jan Chaiken and Marcia Chaiken enjoy living in the richly diverse communities of Huatulco, Oaxaca and Ashland, Oregon
Did you Know... The first printing press in North America was used in Mexico City in 1539. The National University of Mexico (UNAM) was founded in 1551 by Charles V of Spain and is the oldest university in North America. Mexico City is built over the ruins of a great Aztec city, Tenochtitlán. Because it is built on a lake, Mexico is sinking at a rate of 6 to 8 inches a year as pumps draw water out for the city's growing population. Mexico City has the highest elevation and is oldest city in North America. It is also one of the largest cities in the world. Mexico remained under Spanish control for nearly 300 years until the Mexican people, led by a priest named Father Hidalgo, rose up against the Spanish on September 16, 1810. Hidalgo is widely considered the father of modern Mexico, and Mexican Independence is celebrated on September 15-16.
Cinco Dias Sin Nora (Nora's Will) (2008) Director/ Writer Mariana Chenillo Starring Fernando Luján, Enrique Arreola and Ari Brickman Beautifully shot this film captures the subtleties that make up a life and is a fascinating portrait of the Mexican – Jewish community. This first film from writer/ director Mariana Chenillo is about Nora and Jose who, although married for 30 years and then divorced, live in the same building. Nora plans her suicide to coincide with her Passover feast leaving her family and ex-husband to deal with the consequences. A comic touch to the old cliché of the controlling Jewish mother and a story that shows that love can bloom in all kinds of conditions. By Jane Bauer
Emi Winter: A Oaxacan Artists of Original Style By Brooke Gazer
New President for Comuneros By Alfredo Patino
Give a break to Mother earth, Eat vegetarian.
I
f you have dealt with real state in Mexico you probably have heard the term Terreno Comunal or Terreno Ejidal.
This land is protected by the federal government and cannot be bought, sold or used as collateral for loans and
only recognized comuneros or ejidatarios can legally have possession. In Huatulco, half of the territory is
communal land and is administrated by the Comisariado de los Bienes Comunales, the other half is FONATUR and National Park land. The president of the Comuneros is elected every 3 years in a town meeting- only certified comuneros may vote. There are approximately 1900 registered comuneros in the Huatulco area. On July 10th was the election of the comuneros President in Santa Maria Huatulco. Over 1200 comuneros came out to vote for the candidates Francisco Hernandez Ramirez and Jorge Sanchez Cruz. Former Mayor of Huatulco, Jorge Sanchez Cruz won by only 36 votes. The Comisariado de los Bienes Comunales is vigilant when checking for land invasion, new buildings, new farming land, illegal tree cutting and because in every village there is a representative, any suspect behavior is swiftly reported. To be a Comunero you must be Mexican born, a resident of the territory, and then be accepted in a town meeting and recognized by the Federal Government or you may inherite the title. To “own” land you have to be comunero, approved by the Comisariado, have paid all your taxes and the land records have to be checked, then you will get the Titulo de Possesion. The 21'000 sq Hectares that is FONATUR land used to be comunero land and was expropriated in May of 1984 for the tourist development Bahias de Huatulco “for the benefit and progress of the community of Santa Maria Huatulco” …….
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The Blue House By Kathy Taylor
CHILES EN NOGADA
Rinse the chiles and pat them dry. Spoon some of the filling inside each one, being careful not to overstuff. Spread the flour on a plate and turn each chile in the flour to coat lightly. Beat the egg whites until stiff. Beat the egg yolks with the salt. Gently fold the yolks and whites together to make a batter. Dip the chiles into the batter to cover completely. Heat about 1/2 inch of oil in a heavy skillet. Fry the chiles, one or two at a time, until lightly browned. Drain on brown paper. The chiles can be served cold or at room temperature. Dip the chiles in the Walnut Sauce until completely covered. Arrange the chiles on a platter. Cover with a little more sauce, if needed. Sprinkle with pomegranate seeds and sprigs of parsley. To make the filling, place the pork, quartered onion, and garlic in a saucepan. Cover with water and boil for 20 minutes. Drain and set aside, discarding the onion and garlic. Heat the butter in a large skillet and saute the chopped onion for about 4 minutes, until translucent. Add the tomato puree and cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the meat, fruit, citron, raisins, almonds, sugar, and salt and pepper to taste. Cook over medium heat for about 10 minutes. To make the Walnut Sauce, puree all the ingredients. If the sauce is too thick, add more half-and-half. Author's note: I have made this many times, and I sometimes omit coating the poblanos with batter and frying them, preferring to serve the poblanos simply stuffed and then bathed in the delicious sauce.
Great Tastes By Doreen Woelfel
If there is a chef that epitomizes a clear vision of “Mexican cuisine”, it is Enrique Olvera. Pujol, his restaurant in Mexico City, was recently named one of the best 50 restaurants in the world by San Pellegrino's World's Best Restaurants List (www.theworlds50best.com/awards/1-50-winners). Pujol presents clearly “classic” Mexican cooking/flavours with modern techniques (see once again molecular gastronomy) to present Mexican food in all its manifestations.XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX Recently while on a mini cultural/gastronomic tour of Mexico City we visited Pujol, Patricia Quintana's Izote and the Dulceria de Celaya. Food is a serious business in Mexico City, and one would need years to hit every restaurant, taco stand and market place to truly get all the flavors Mexico has to offer. Living in Huatulco has its advantages, and we have become completely devoted to several local Mexican/Oaxacan restaurants, but it's not Mexico City, and the food big leagues. Oaxaca, as I noted in a previous article, comes XXXXXXXXXxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxXXXX close. Life is short, start with dessert! Dulceria de Celaya, founded in 1874 and located in the heart of the historic center, is a wonderland of regional candies. Displayed, as if in a jewelry store, these gems of marzipan, stuffed limes with coconut, candied fruits and other traditional sweets found throughout Mexico, dazzle the eyes and cause a little salivating just looking. All sweets are handmade with natural ingredients. The store itself is a step back into the past, with old fashioned decor, and candy displays. The day we stopped by, it was packed with nationals and tourists alike. We bought a couple of large boxes of samples as gifts (ahem, one of those boxes became significantly reduced by the time we returned to Huatulco).
We did take a night to try Patricia Quintana's Izotes. Quintana, who started one of Mexico's first culinary academies, has put her talent and philosophy into Izotes. Her food style is Mexican traditional: “My style of cooking brings sophistication to traditional recipes and giving Mexican food the recognition and honor it deserves," XXXXXXXXxxxxxXXXXX (www.starchefs.com/chefs/PQuintana/html/bio.sht ml). We shared chilli rellenos stuffed with a smokey pork, corn fungus (huitlacoche) tacos, fish tamales, red snapper with a cream/saffron sauce over huitlacoche, and ate like pigs (as nicely as I can put it). Oh so good, reasonably priced by comparison with other likeminded restaurants, and the staff was knowledgeable, attentive and fun. She eats at Pujol, by the way.XXXXXXXXXXXxxxxxxxxxxXX Which leads us back to Pujol. Enrique Olvera has written a most unusual cookbook, Uno , which is partly biography, partly a love affair with all food Mexican, a philosophical overview of Mexican cuisine, and his take on the importance of fresh, local, organic foodstuff , and last but not least, the recipes of some of his more well known dishes. His restaurant and book reflect his deep connection to tradition, in a most loving and fantastical way. His restaurant sparkles with his passion, and sense of humor.... and portions of his book are in comic book form, explaining how he became a chef and opened up Pujol. Eating at Pujol, we marveled how he could get those flavors in every dish presented to us (by 4 waiters, one for each of us). X X X X X X X X X X X x x x x X The “Menu del Dia” (850 pesos), comes to you in a brochure, with a cover that reflects local markets, scenes of agriculture, and the people of Mexico. The meal starts with a taste, something he creates for the evening and meal introduction. We went from that to a
Dental Surgeon
bolita de quintonil y queso de cabra, a tomato tea, herb broth, with goat cheese. This was followed by a plate of vegetables, beans, cheese, in a most untraditional presentation; turkey in a black chilli sauce; a suckling pig in a reduced sauce of oregano-piquin, a palate cleanser of berries in mezcal, and dessert of tres leches foam, helado, and the very amazing raspberries done with nitrogen... little gems of powerful flavour. Every course was presented beautifully; portions were large enough for a good taste, small enough that you were left with wanting more, and each course was a gateway to the next. We talked with Olivera during dessert about the food revolution coming out of Oaxaca. He mentioned his great friend Chef Banos (from Pitiona in Oaxaca), and said we should stop in to say hello (see last month's issue of Huatulco Eye). When we got home, an email was waiting for me-- did I want to come back for a cooking class? I love being on that list, and definitely plan to go back.XXXXXXXxxxXXXXXX There are a myriad of reasons to head up to Mexico City, and most of the prevailing guidebooks cover the usual tourist sites, but I urge those who love food, especially Mexican cuisine, to do a little research, and to check out some of the more notable food places, from Rick Bayless' taco stand list, to those restaurants putting Mexican cuisine on the world table and giving everyone else a taste of what we already know is a good thing. For those of you into cookbooks, Olivera's Uno , is a one of a kind. The last part of the book includes a conversation with other innovative food people, including Leon Krauze, Ricardo Munoz Zurita and Alonso Ruvalcaba, that is worth fine tuning your Spanish to read. Check out my blog: www.doreeneliza-huatulcopassages.blogspot.com/
FOR SALE / SE VENDE Andy U.S.A: 818-728-4354 Ramon Mex cell: 958-100-4629 www.VillaEscondida.com.mx
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Best Breakfast in Town Santa Cruz, Huatulco
Oaxaca Weekend Alvin Starkman, M.A., LL.B.
Oaxaca City is only a 35 minute flight from Huatulco. Since it's one of the most culturally rich destinations in the Western Hemisphere, even sun worshippers should consider washing off their tanning oil, changing their flip – flops for shoes, and putting on a shirt for a three day jaunt to the state capital. Oaxaca and its central valleys boast craft villages producing pottery, rugs, woven and embroidered cotton textiles and brilliantly painted mystical wooden figures; vibrant rural marketplaces; pre-Hispanic ruins; downtown Oaxaca art galleries, museums, colonial churches, restaurants and cooking schools featuring internationally acclaimed chefs. Although Oaxaca deserves several days to really do it justice, many don't have the time or inclination to spend a week away from the ocean. So I'll map out both city and village highlights which can be visited during a three day excursion. After a Friday morning flight, take a cab from Oaxaca's airport to the majestic ruin of Monte Alban. Once there hire a guide to explain the ruin and Oaxaca's pre history. By noon you'll be downtown, checking into your bed & breakfast. If you don't yet have a guide for the next two touring days, your host will make arrangements. Spend the afternoon visiting art galleries and craft shops, the Cathedral and Santa Domingo. Stop for drinks and a late lunch at the most colorful zócalo in the country. Then tour the small but impressive Rufino Tamayo Museum of pre-Hispanic Art. Relax at your hotel for a couple of hours, then grab dinner at a local haunt before turning in. After Saturday breakfast, your driver will take you to San Bartolo Coyotepec, the black pottery village. Witness a grandson of famed potter Doña Rosa
demonstrating this ancient craft without using a wheel or modern tools. Browse the showroom and select from both modern and traditional barro negro. Visit the hand-made jewelry workshop of Armando Lozano, a minute down the road. Next is San Martín Tilcajete where artisans carve and paint fanciful figures known as alebrijes. If traveling with children, arrangements can be made for them to paint their choice of animal. Continue on to Santo Tomas Jalieza. Women in the village fashion table runners, placemats, belts and purses using the primitive back strap loom, as well as bedspreads and tablecloths. Ocotlán is 10 minutes further, where you'll visit the workshops of the Aguilar sisters, crafters of clay painted figures with scenes representing marketplaces, religious iconography, comedic love imagery and colorful fiestas.
clothing, meats, produce, furniture and all worldly needs. Visit a mezcal factory to witness the centuries old production technique for making the state's famed spirit, using an in-ground oven to bake the agave plant, a horse to then mash its fiber, pine vats to ferment, and finally the clay and brick encased alambique to distill. Learn flavor nuances at a private tasting. The 16th century Dominican Church at Tlacochahuaya provides a fitting time to tranquilly reflect and unwind at the end of a busy day. Even those not particularly interested in churches will marvel at the unique painting style and the 17th century German organ accessed by a steep, winding staircase. A visit takes you back centuries and provides a feeling of what it was like to worship in colonial times.
By late afternoon you'll be back at your B & B relaxing and freshening up for an evening stroll and perhaps dinner at a higher end restaurant.
Back in town by 6:00, put your feet up, perhaps have a brief snooze, then get ready to go out for your final dinner. After bidding farewell to Oaxaca, your morning flight will land you back on the beach for breakfast.
Sunday begins with a visit to the 2,000 year old Tule, the tree with the broadest girth in the world. Then Teotitlán del Valle, where residents using pine looms have been producing wool rugs with natural dyes since the 1500s. See a demonstration of carding, spinning, dyeing and weaving. Consider buying a rug, purse or wall hanging with either traditional or modern designs.
This is a sampling of what's available for a short trip to Oaxaca. Delete some stops and add others to address personal passions. For nature and ecotourism there's Hierve el Agua, bird watching and hiking. For rustic and more real, visit villages where tourists rarely if ever venture. Your accommodations host will ensure you get the most out of three days in Oaxaca.
The ruin at Mitla is very different from Monte Albán, so is worthy of consideration. Mitla also has one of the largest craft marketplaces in the region, with unbeatable prices for clothing and jewelry. However for pageantry and diversity, you won't encounter anything more interesting than the Sunday Tlacolula marketplace, a must. While the market includes handicrafts, it's predominantly a center where villagers come for
Alvin & Arlene Starkman operate Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast (www.oaxacadream.com). Alvin is a contributing writer for Mexico Today (CL), has published over 200 articles about Oaxaca and the central valleys and is the Tripadvisor Oaxaca Destination Expert. Contact Alvin at oaxacadream(at)hotmail.com for further Oaxaca touring advice.
American British Cowdray Medical Centre By Brooke Gazer
H
uatulco has a reliable hospital run by the military but like any small town, the services are limited. Since we moved to Huatulco, my husband developed a heart condition thus we have had more than our share of experience with the ABC Medical Center in Mexico City over the past several years. The American British Cowdray Medical Center is affiliated with Methodist Hospital, in Texas and is part of the Methodist International Group. It is a private, not for profit, teaching center that covers everything from simple obstetrics to organ transplants. If I were asked to use one word to describe the ABC hospital the word would be “Kind”. Of course the hospital is clean, efficient and well equipped but it is clear that the entire operation is geared not only toward the physical illness but to the emotional well being of all involved. In addition to staff that seem to really care about the patients, the hospital has a bilingual group of volunteer women called “Las Damas Rosas” (The Pink Ladies). These dedicated women help both patients and their families and they provide a selection of books, magazines and videos to patients. It would probably be easier if you spoke some Spanish as most of the nurses and diagnostic staff does not speak English. However, eight years ago our Spanish was pretty weak and still we managed to survive the experience. If there was any confusion the nursing staff would contact either a pink lady or one of the residents. As this is a teaching hospital there is always a resident on the floor. At the beginning of each shift the resident and the nurse go into every room and introduces themselves to each patient assuring them that they can be called upon at any time. (I thought this only happened on TV!). The physicians at this hospital all speak English and many have been trained abroad. The physician who preformed Rick's angioplasty was trained at the Montreal Heart Institute and Rick's cardiologist is a graduate of George Washington University, one of America's top medical schools. We have found the physicians to be warm, understanding, and approachable . The Hospital's diagnostic equipment is state of the art. Whether it is an ultrasound, an MRI or an eco cardiogram, you can normally have an appointment within a day or two, possibly the same day. Patients within the hospital have priority over out- patients and their tests are normally scheduled first thing in the morning. Unlike some facilities that provide a skimpy paper cover up, the hospital gowns are of heavy cotton and are sufficiently ample to preserve your dignity. The staff is both friendly and professional, demonstrating a concern for the patients physical comfort and attempt to make the experience as stress free as possible. The rooms are all private with a large window and three piece bathrooms. Each room has a phone, a wall safe, a TV and VCR. In addition to the electronically controlled hospital bed each room has a recliner chair so that patients do not spend the entire time in bed. There is also a sofa/daybed that the staff will make up for visitors should you want to spend the night with the patient. Needless to say they have up to date monitoring equipment so that a caretaker is not required to stay over. The rooms are cleaned twice daily and the entire facility is spotless.
Without insurance the thought of any hospital stay is daunting. While the ABC is expensive, it would be safe to say that it is considerably less expensive than comparable facilities north of the border. The basic charge for a private room is about $200 USD per night but the fees can escalate quickly. Rick's latest admission was two years ago when he was admitted for a total of eight days including extensive tests followed by an angioplasty. At that time the entire cost including, a multitude of diagnostic procedures, surgery, medicine, physician care, three days in the critical care unit and six in a private room totalled about $24,000 USD. This is a lot of money!!! Compared to what this would cost in many American hospitals however, it was not a bad deal. If you are on vacation without travel insurance and have a medical emergency the cost could be enough to send you scurrying home to your provider. This may not be necessary. Several years ago we took an extended trip to Asia and being frugally minded, we checked in with Alberta Health Care as to our health care options abroad. At that time, the government plan reimbursed patients in case of emergency, for medical expenses outside Canada up to the amount that that they would normally pay for the same emergency if the patient were at home. As a Canadian traveling in the USA, the cost would be higher but in Mexico, even at the ABC, chances are it would be less. For Americans with insurance, you may also be covered for medical emergencies in Mexico. We had a guest from New York a few years ago who had a medical emergency which was beyond the scope of the Huatulco hospital. He knew what the problem was as this was not his first incident. He needed to get to a major hospital. They were planning to return home when we suggested ABC Hospital in Mexico City was closer. We contacted the hospital on their behalf and a specialist met them at the emergency and had him admitted. He had laproscopic gastric surgery immediately and spent the next week at the hospital. Their insurance in New York covered the entire bill as it was an emergency and the cost was far less than it would have been in New York. This may or may not apply to everyone so, my advice is to check with your insurance company before you travel abroad. As permanent foreign residents of Mexico we are no longer entitled to the “free” health care offered in Canada and fortunately we had the wherewithal to purchase independent health insurance in Mexico before we needed it. Cost aside (although realistically one an never really put cost aside), if either of us had the opportunity to beam back to Canada, avoid the three to six month wait to see a specialist and be admitted to hospital within days of our arrival for whatever tests and procedures were required, we would both choose to remain in Mexico at the ABC medical center. We feel that positive about the facility and the level of care. American British Cowdray Medical Centre (ABC) is considered on of the finest hospitals in the country. There area two separate campuses within Mexico City; the original is located in Observatorio and the newer facility is in Santa Fe. For further information go to http://www.abchospital.com/ Brooke Gazer operates a Bed and Breakfast in Huatulco
Dengue Fever By Gerry Freund There is no specific treatment for Dengue Fever. Paracetamol or Acetaminophen (Tylenol) may be taken to relieve the aches and pain, but Aspirin and Ibuprofen (Advil/Aleve/ Naproxen) should NOT be taken because they could make the bleeding tendency worse. It is important to drink lots of fluids to prevent dehydration. Cool compresses may be applied to the eyes/head, forehead or chest to reduce the fever and provide some comfort. If you suspect you have Dengue Fever and feel it is not a mild flu medical attention should be sought. Hospitalization may be required in cases of severe dehydration or Hemorrhagic Dengue Fever. To diagnose Dengue Fever blood tests are required. The Centre de Salud at the corner of Carrizal and Avenida Guamuchil, across from the Plaza Madero in La Crucecita, is the best place for the blood testing. They are the referral centre for Dengue Fever, and statistics on the incidence of Dengue Fever are collected and sent to Oaxaca City. Anyone seeking medical attention here and complaining of a high fever will receive higher priority to be seen. A consultation with a doctor and blood tests will cost about $50 pesos. According to Dr. Luis Benjamin Antonio Ruiz, the doctor in charge of treating Dengue Fever for the coast, the blood tests should ideally be done as soon as possible after the fever begins. The most definitive blood test (called “NS1”) can only be taken at the Centre de Salud and must be sent to Oaxaca for analysis. Prevention of Dengue Fever is by combatting the disease carrying mosquitoes, and to prevent being bitten by them. Infected mosquitos breed in areas of standing water and water filled receptacles such as planters, used tires, vases, or leaky water tanks. The Program Paludismo, funded by the federal Secretary de Salud, inspects neighbourhoods building by building for potential breeding grounds for mosquitoes. An intensive area spraying program operates full time during rainy season. The spray used is not dangerous to humans or animals to inhale. Any area that appears to have more cases of Dengue Fever will be more closely scrutinized for sources of standing water. Research is currently underway to develop and test vaccines. Insect repellants should be applied on top of sunscreen to exposed skin, avoiding contact with the lips and eyes. Insect repellants containing 20% or more of DEET, Picaridin or Piperidinec (Autun) are recommended as being most effective for 1-3 hours. Citronella based repellants may only be effective for shorter periods of time. Window and door screens will also keep mosquitoes out of homes, and mosquito coils can be outdoors. Dengue fever (pronounced “Deng Gay”) is a flu like illness, that is spread by mosquitoes, and can lead to a potentially fatal complication called Dengue Hemorrhagic Fever. It is a viral infection that is now regularly seen in over 100 countries in tropical and sub-tropical areas of the world, including Mexico, Central and South America and the Caribbean. The incidence is rising around the world due to more frequent air travel, and has become a major international health concern. In
Mexico, Dengue Fever is primarily seen in cities and villages below an elevation of 1200 metres, most often during the “rainy season”, but it can occur all year long. In the state of Oaxaca the area of Pinotepa has a higher incidence than Huatulco, where only 2 cases had been reported as of the beginning of June, for this year. Dengue is spread from an infected human to a mosquito and on to other humans. The Aedes mosquitoes are responsible for spreading Dengue Fever, and are most active in daylight. According to the World Health Organization there are four related viruses that cause dengue. After recovering from infection by one type of Aedes mosquito you could have lifelong immunity against that virus, but only partial and temporary protection against a future infection by the other three viruses. A second occurrence of infection is usually stronger and increases the risk of developing Dengue Hemorrhagic Fever. The signs and symptoms of Dengue Fever usually begin about 4-7 days after being bitten by an infected mosquito, and vary with the age and overall health of the individual. Mild Dengue Fever rarely is fatal. Infants and young children may experience only a high fever, flushing of the face and a rash. Older children and adults usually experience a high fever (over 39 degrees Celsius, or 102 degrees Fahrenheit), a bad headache, and may have pain behind the eyes, muscle and joint pains (where the nickname “break bone fever” came from), and rash or red blotches on the chest, arms and other parts of the body. The rash is an early sign of the more serious Dengue Hemorrhagic Fever. Most people recover within 5-14 days. Some adults may feel listless, tired, and even depressed for several weeks after being affected. With severe cases of Dengue Hemorrhagic Fever the high fever usually comes on quickly and may cause convulsions as well as other symptoms. In this case, after a few days of fever the overall condition suddenly deteriorates and requires immediate medical attention. Anyone taking blood thinners should immediately consult a doctor if they have a fever and 2-3 other symptoms as listed above.
August Guelaguetzas in the Villages
Movie Night Hemingways Huatulco 8 pm
Cuilapan de Guerrero, Zaachila, San Antonio Costello Velasco, San Pablo Villa de Etla
Feria de Mezcal, Llano park, daily 9 am to 11 pm, with free samplings from 50 different mezcal producers from
Danzรณn with the Marimba Band Guadua-Puerto Escondido Funky Nights 11pm 6:30 pm Zocalo, Oaxaca Free
Huatulco Fonatur Cup Classic at tangolunda Golf Course info:
Guadua-Puerto Escondido Reggae Nights 11pm
lidia@infogolfmexico.com
the state of Oaxaca as well as other states, admission 35 pesos; several concert dates which charge extra if you want to sit and listen to the concert.
Movie Night Hemingways Huatulco 8 pm
Danzรณn with the Marimba Band 6:30 pm Zocalo, Oaxaca Free
Movie Night Hemingways Huatulco 8 pm
Danzรณn with the Marimba Band 6:30 pm Zocalo, Oaxaca Free
Guadua-Puerto Escondido Funky Nights 11pm
Danzรณn with the Marimba Band 6:30 pm Zocalo, Oaxaca Free
Guadua-Puerto Escondido Funky Nights 11pm
Back to School Mexico Movie Night Hemingways Huatulco 8 pm
Guadua-Puerto Escondido Funky Nights 11pm
Full Moon
Guadua-Puerto Escondido Reggae Nights 11pm
Guadua-Puerto Escondido Reggae Nights 11pm
To announce your event for FREE on our calendar email details to:
Guadua-Puerto Escondido Reggae Nights 11pm
Evento Oceano Huatulco info:958 587 0902
Tennis US Open
Movie Night Hemingways Huatulco 8 pm
Danzรณn with the Marimba Band 6:30 pm Zocalo, Oaxaca Free
huatulcoeye@yahoo.com
VACATION HOUSE FOR RENT On the Zimatan River, close to surf spot Barra de la Cruz. 2 bedroom, 2 bath, satellite TV, BBQ, private river access
www.theriverhouse-huatulco.com
Free Movie, Free Popcorn
August 2, 2011
August 9, 2011
August 16, 2011
Advertise with The Eye! Contact us for rates
August 23, 2011
August 30, 2011 Tear This Heart Out (Arrancame la vida) (2008)
huatulcoeye@yahoo.com