Bite issue 2

bite Beach, Village + Urban Eating in Oaxaca Winter 2018 Issue 2 FREE

Editor’s Letter Tell me what you eat, and I will tell you who you are.

Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin

T

he kitchen I grew up in wasn't filled with the smell of freshly cooked tortillas or the sweet taste of spicy chiles. My father didn’t grow corn and my mother has never made Oaxacan mole. But the types of food weren’t as important as the lessons they taught me about food. Food is love and the taste improves the more you know about its providence.

Every summer my father would pick blackberries, which he would make into jam so that on the coldest Sunday mornings of Montreal winters we could have a taste of summer on our pancakes.

He taught me to speak with the butcher, the baker, the cheese seller, the fish monger and that it was worth traveling across town for good ingredients. For my fourteenth birthday he ordered a sacher torte from the Sacher hotel in Vienna, Austria. I remember sitting around the kitchen table and opening the crisp white box. It was so incredibly decadent and delicious, but the real lesson was the slice of history it came with. All food tells a story and the sacher torte was a piece of my father’s childhood that he was sharing with me.

My mother always rewarded “welcome homes” from summer camp, vacations, and later college, with my favorite dishes: lamb chops with mint jelly or out to dinner at an Indian restaurant where we would feast on butter chicken and nan bread.

When I was on the plane flying into Mexico for the first time, I don’t think I had an idea of what magic was waiting for me, but I was well-armed with an insatiable curiosity. This 20-year journey of exploring and learning how to cook here; first as a girlfriend, then a wife, then as a mother and finally as a restaurateur, has been eye-opening. In the early years I would walk to the market in Puerto Angel and then spend all day recreating and tweaking recipes from the Moosewood cookbook or old issues of Gourmet magazine. My favorite day was Monday when the streets of Pochutla would fill with fresh produce and bushels of flowers. I was intrigued by women in the street selling dried fish and shrimp.

My parents taught me to be culinarily adventurous and the importance of what food can tell us about who we are. They taught me that it is worth taking the time to prepare something right- to do it with presence and to serve it with dignity to people you love.

INVIERTE E IMPULSA TU NEGOCIO! Anunciate con nosotros!

TheEyeHuatulco@gmail.com Cel.: 958 100 7339

Bite Team Editor: Jane Bauer Copy Editor: Deborah Van Hoewyk Web Goddess: Erin Vig Writers: Jane Bauer, Marcia Chaiken, Serge Dedina, Julie Etra, Brooke Gazer, Margret Hefner, Mely Martínez, Sandra Roussy, Deborah Van Hoewyk, Kary Vannice Cover Photo: Fudio Photography/Art: Artpowerhouse.com (Reine Mihtla), Jane Bauer, Colectivo Tilcoatle, Frances Lopez, Mely Martínez, Sandra Roussy, visionsi, Distribution: Renee Biernacki Advertising Assistant: Giselda Vanegas Bustamente Layout: Jane Bauer Opinions and words are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of bite.

Visit Us Online www.TheEyeHuatulco.com

We hope you enjoy the magazine. Please thank the advertisers when you use their services as their contribution makes this FREE publication possible.

Happy Eating,

Jane

BITE 3

In This Issue Super Salads Page 6 Huatulco Restaurant Guide Page 8 Eating at the Beach - Hux Page 10 Rosca de Reyes

By Julie Etra Page 11 Culture, Cuisine and Conservation in Huatulco

By Serge Dedina Page 12 Eating off the Beaten Path Page 14 Zipolite Restaurant Guide Page 16 San Agustinillo and Mazunte Restaurant Guide Page 17 Lunch with Alain Sรกnchez Rojas

By Jane Bauer Page 18 Fresh Chile Guide Photo by Artpowerhouse Page 20

BITE 4

Dried Chile Guide Photo by Artpowerhouse Page 21 Tamales on Candlemas Day Día de la Candelaria

By Marcia Chaiken Page 22 Puerto Escondido Restaurant Guide Page 24 Local and Farm Fresh A Day with Almoraduz Chefs Cocina Mexicana De Autor Text and photos by Sandra Roussy Page 26 Oaxaca City Restaurant Guide Page 30 Huitla...what?Huitlacoche

By Jane Bauer Page 32 The Origin of Chocolate

By Brooke Gazer Page 33 Blogger of the Season Mely Martinez Page 34 Frutas y Verduras: A Fresh Food Lover's Guide to Mexico

By Margret Hefner and Kary Vannice Page 35 The Cuisine of the Yucatán

By Deborah Van Hoewyk Page 36 Emergency Phone Numbers Page 38

Super Salads!

Carrot and Jicama

Avocado and Shrimp

1 jicama julienned 5 carrots julienned 1 apple julienned 1 inch ginger grated Handful of cilantro 3 tsp. sesame seed

Two handfuls of mixed lettuce Half a cucumber, diced 1 diced avocado 12 shrimp cooked in garlic oil Sliced almonds

Dressing: 2 Tbs. ground sesame seeds 5 Tbs. mayonnaise 1 Tbs. rice vinegar 2 tsp. soy sauce 1-2 tsp. sugar ½ tsp. salt 2 tsp. sesame oil

Dressing: 3 Tbs. olive oil 3 Tbs. lime juice 1 Tbs. mayonnaise ¼ tsp. cumin

Watermelon Nopal and Corn 4 nopales, brushed with olive oil and salt, roasted or grilled, and cut into 1" pieces 1 cob of sweet corn, brushed with olive oil and salt, roasted or grilled, then cut kernels off the cob 2 Tbs. cilantro, coarsely chopped Juice of half a lime Freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 avocado sliced ¼ cup queso fresco (can substitute feta) Dressing: 3 Tbs. olive oil 3 Tbs. lime juice 1 Tbs. Dijon mustard

BITE 6

1 medium seedless watermelon, interior scooped out with melon baller 2 handfuls baby spinach 10 mint leaves, torn in small pieces 1 small red onion, halved vertically and very thinly sliced 15 black olives (Kalamata or to your taste), diced or sliced ¼ cup queso Chiapaneco (can substitute feta) Dressing: 3 Tbs. olive oil 3 Tbs. lime juice 1 Tbs. honey

Huatulco

‘

Eating is so intimate.

It s very sensual.

When you invite someone to sit at your table and you want to cook for them, you are inviting a person into your life.

Maya Angelou

Huatulco Restaurant Guide La Crucecita La Botanita Fresh, Sandwiches, Salads Gardenia 901 Tel.: 958 105 1534 Tues.- Sun.: 8:30am- 10pm Credit Cards Accepted Café Casa Mayor Coffee, Relaxed, Live Music Bugambilia 601 Tel.: 958 587 1881 Daily: 7:00am- midnight Credit Cards Accepted Café Porto Coffee, Dessert Main Square La Crucecita Tel.: 958 688 1874 Daily: 8:00am- 11:00pm Cash only Che Dieguito Argentinian Grill Bugambilia and Acacia Tel.: 958 583 4996 Daily: 2:00pm- 11:00pm Credit Cards Accepted El Padrino Tacos, Juices, Delivery Sierra de Tamazulapan (Behind Pemex gas Station) Tel.: 958 587 0554 Daily 8:00am– 4:00pm Cash Only Giordana's Italian, Deli, Pasta Gardenia and Palma Real Tel.: 958 583 4324 Tues.- Sat.: 12pm- 10:00pm Cash only El Grillo Marinero Local, Fresh, Seafood Carrizal and Macuhitle Tel.: 958 587 0783 Wed.- Mon.: 1pm- 8pm Cash only

BITE 8

El Porrón Spanish Food 1303 Gardenia at Palo Verde Tel.: 958 688 1834 Daily: 1:00pm- 11:00pm Cash Only

Pollos San Gerardo Roast chicken, Delivery 1101 Macuil Tel.: 958 587 1549 Daily: 8:00am- 6:00pm Credit Cards Accepted

Kabana Sports Bar Flamboyan 310 Tel.: 958 587 0484 Wed.- Mon.: 3pm- midnight Credit Cards Accepted

Los Portales Tacos, Mexican Bugambilia 603 Tel.: 958 100 4551 Daily: 8:00am- midnight Credit Cards Accepted

L’art'illería Mexican, Mezcal Bugambilia and Ceiba Tel.: 958 587 2006 Daily: 2:00pm- 11:00pm Cash Only

Onix International Cuisine Bugambilia 603 Tel.: 958 587 0070 Daily: 3:30pm- 11:30pm Credit Cards Accepted

La Crema Pizza, Bar, Shop Gardenia 311, second floor Tel.: 01 477 675 7233 Daily: 7:00pm- 2:00am Credit Cards Accepted

Ricky's #Juan Bar, International Cuisine Main Square Tel.: 958 585 0416 Daily: 11:00am- 2:00am

Los Gallos Mexican, Casual Carrizal and Palma Real Tel.: 958 587 0139 Tues.- Sun.: 2pm- 10pm Cash Only Los Parados Tacos, Tlayudas Tel.: 958 587 6967 Daily: 8am-10pm Macuil and Carrizal Cash Only Mamma Mia Italian, delivery Ceiba and Bugambilia Tel.: 958 105 1548 Tues.- Sunday: 2pm- 11pm Credit Cards Accepted Mare Italian, Seafood Tel.: 958 113 3106 Gardenia 1303 Daily: 5:00pm-10:00pm Cash Only

Sabor de Oaxaca Upscale Oaxacan food Guamuchil 206 Tel.: 958 587 0060 Daily: 7:30am -10:30pm Credit Cards Accepted Teresina Italian, Pizza, Delivery Colorín 509 Tel.: 958 587 1391 Thurs.- Tues.: 5pm-11pm Cash Only Terracotta International Cuisine, AC Gardenia 902 Tel.: 958 587 0165 Daily: 7:00-22:00 Credit Cards Accepted West Park Café Pastries, Breakfast, Coffee Gardenia 1302 Tel.: 958 587 2551 Mon.- Sat.: 9:00am- 4:00pm Cash only

Santa Cruz Agua Bendita Gastropub Craft beer, Mexican cuisine Boulevard Santa Cruz Tel.: 958 587 2028 Tues.- Sun.: 4pm- 11pm Credit Cards Accepted Bossanova Crêpes, Salads, Sandwiches Hotel Maxico Mon.- Sat.: 7am-11pm Tel.: 958 122 7183 Cash Only Café Huatulco Coffee, Tamales, Breakfast Santa Cruz Kiosk Tel.: 958 587 1228 Daily: 8:00am- 11:00pm Cash only Café Icacos Coffee, salads, tapas Blvd. Santa Cruz, across from Hotel Binniguenda Tel.: 958 122 5199 Tue.-Sun.: 8am- 8pm Cash Only (for now)

Chahue Jaguar International, Mexican Holiday Inn Av. Benito Juárez 604 Tel.: 958 583 0433 Daily: 7:00am-11:00pm Credit Cards Accepted

Best Western Mexican, International Mixie and Mixteco (Behind Chedraui) Tel: 958 587 0945 Daily: 7:00am-10:00pm Credit Cards Accepted

La Playa Beachfront, Seafood Santa Cruz Beach Tel.: 958 587 0811 Daily: 10:00am- 6:00pm Credit Cards Accepted

Café Juanita Fresh, International, Oceanview Marina Chahue, Local #2 Tel.: 958 105 1671 Cel.:958 100 7339 Tues.: 8:30am- 4:00pm Wed.- Sun.: 8:30am-10pm Credit Cards Accepted

Lu ibá Beachfront, Mediterranean Santa Cruz Beach, by the cruise ship pier Tel.: 958 587 1417 Tue.-Sun.: 1pm- 10pm Credit Cards Accepted Mercader Asian, Thai, Fresh Andador Huatulco 304 Tel.: 958 587 0623 Tues.- Sun.: 2pm- 10pm Credit Cards Accepted

Doña Celia Beachfront, Sea Food Santa Cruz Beach Tel.: 958 583 4876 Daily: 8:00am- 11:00pm Credit Cards Accepted

Niko’s Organic Coffee Coffee, Breakfast, Tapas Mitla 106, Plaza Las Palmas Mon.- Sat.: 8:30am- 11pm Tel: 958 116 6094 Credit Cards Accepted

Guns & Beers Bar, Live Music, Pool Table Boulevard Santa Cruz Tel.: 958 105 1558 Daily: 12:00 pm- 1:00am Credit Cards Accepted

Ve el Mar Beach Front Seafood Santa Cruz Beach Tel.: 958 587 0364 Daily: 9:00am- 10:00pm Credit Cards Accepted

Itoó Breakfast, Mexican Calle Otitlan del Valle Tel.: 958 115 8571 Tues.- Sun.: 7am- 2pm Cash only Habanero Loko Pizza, Seafood Santa Cruz Beach Tel.: 958 587 2000 Tues.- Sun.: 8am- midnight Credit Cards Accepted

La Mezcala Tlayudas, Mezcal, Bar Blvd. Benito Juarez Tel.: 958 587 1011 Tues.- Sun.: 7pm-3am Credit Cards Accepted Konnichiwa Sushi, Japanese, Delivery Marina Park Plaza Tel.: 958 105 1550 Daily: 2:00pm- 11:00pm Credit Cards Accepted La Baguita Baguettes, Mexican Plaza del Rosario Tel.: 958 118 8233 Thurs.- Tues.: 8:30am-10pm Cash Only

Craft Beer & Mexican Cuisine Boulevard Santa Cruz Tel. 958 587 2028 Tuesday- Sunday: 4:00pm- 11:00pm Accepts Credit Cards

BITE 9

L'Echalote French and Vietnamese Hotel Eden Costa Tel.: 958 587 2480 Tues.- Sun.: 6pm- 10:30pm Credit Cards Accepted Mama Elsa's Hamburgers Burgers, Tacos, Carrot Cake Beside Hotel Villablanca Tel.: 958 100 4032 Mon.- Sat.: 6pm- 11pm Cash only McCarthy's Irish Pub Wings, Bar, Sports TV Chedraui parking lot Tel. 958 103 9747 Daily: 2:00pm- 3:00am Credit Cards Accepted Rocoto South American flavors Plaza Chahue Local 2 Tel.: 958 106 7502 Mon.- Sat.: 1:30pm-10pm Cash only Santa Clara Mexican cuisine Calle Mazateco, Sector R Tel.: (958) 587 1047 Daily: 8:00am- 9:00pm Credit Cards Accepted 7 Tavoli Italian, Mediterranean Marina Chahue Local 5 Tel.: 958 583 4499 Wed.- Mon.: 5pm- 11pm Credit Cards Accepted Tomas Beach Mexican, Bar, AC Boulevard Benito Juárez Tel.: 958 105 1618 Tues.- Sun.: 9am- 1am Credit Cards Accepted La Finca de Vaqueros Mexican Grill, Steak Calle Carrizal (Beside Goodyear) Tel.: 958 587 0807 Open Daily: 1pm- 10pm Credit Cards Accepted

BITE 10

Tangolunda Azul Profundo Romantic, Beachfront, Mediterranean Fusion Hotel Camino Real Zaashila Tel.: 958 583 0300 Mon.-Wed.-Fri.: 7pm- 11pm Credit Cards Accepted Don Porfirio Steak, Seafood, Mexican Blvd. Benito Juárez (Across from Dreams) Tel.: 958 581 0001 Daily: 11:00am- midnight Credit Cards Accepted Las Cupulas Romantic, Oceanview Hotel Quinta Real Tel.: 958 581 0428 Daily: 7:00am- 12:00pm, 6:00pm-10:00pm Credit Cards Accepted Las Parotas Breakfast, AC, parking Las Parotas Golf Course Tel.: 958 583 0400 Daily: 7:00am- 5:00pm Credit Cards Accepted Ocean Mexican, Bar, Seafood Arrocito, Cosmo Residences Tel.: 958 525 2241 Wednesday- Monday: 1:30pm -10:00pm Credit Cards Accepted Viena Austrian and Thai Cuisine Boulevard Benito Juarez Plaza Huatulco Tel.: 958 106 5760 Mon.-Sat.: 5pm-11pm Cash only

Eating

At the Beach- HUX Maguey Beach: Camaron Gigante Try the: Stuffed Pineapple Tel: 958 587 4790 Daily: 8am- 6pm

La Entrega Beach: Cielito Lindo Try the: Shrimp 4x4 Tel: 958 109 4464 Daily: 8am- 8pm

Santa Cruz Beach: Ve el Mar Try the: Mixed Seafood Platter Tel: 958 587 0364 Daily: 9am-10pm

La Bocana Beach: Los Güeros Try the: Fish Burgers Tel: 958 100 9969 Daily: 8am-10pm Cash Only

Rosca de Reyes

By Julie Etra Rosca de Reyes (makes 2 rings, 8 slices each)

T

his sweet yeasted cake in the form of a torus, or a t h r e e dimensional oval, is an essential part of the Mexican celebration of Three Kings Day, which takes on January 6th.

On this day Christians commemorate the arrival of the Magi or "Wise Men" (Balthazar, Melchior and Caspar) who brought gifts for the baby Jesus. In most of Spain, Spanish America, and sometimes in Hispanic communities in the United States, this is the day when children traditionally get presents as opposed to Christmas Day. It is also known as the Epiphany or Christian feast day celebrating the revelation of God incarnate as Jesus Christ. The eve of the celebration is known as Twelfth Night. This tradition dates from the middle ages in Europe, mainly from Spain and France, and arrived in Mexico during the early years of the viceroys. In Spain, before children go to bed, they leave a dish filled with biscuits and a few glasses of water for the three wise men and their camels.

The tradition of hiding a figurine of the baby Jesus in the cake is very old and represents the flight of the Holy Family, fleeing from King Herod's Massacre of the Innocents. Whoever finds the figurine is blessed, and is symbolically the baby's godparent. Being a godparent entails two responsibilities: the finder takes the figurine to a house of worship on February 2 (Candlemas Day, or Día de la Candelaria), the day Jesus was taken to the temple to be blessed, and must throw a tamale party to celebrate the blessing, inviting all those who were present when the rosca was cut on January 6.

Although there is technically supposed to be one figurine per cake, and hence one person to make the tamales, the cake I had last year had at least four. And contradicting what I assumed was a consistent tradition, I have seen cakes in several chain bakeries selling mini roscas as early as the first week of December.

Although recipes vary from country to country, and within countries, this yeasted cake is essentially made out of wheat flour, essence of orange blossom, melted butter, sugar, egg yolks, whole eggs, and salt. Figs, quinces, cherries, dried or candied fruits slices are used for decoration. The cake is a bit complicated to make, as it has to rise twice and the second time for 6 hours, so plan accordingly. The following recipe is fairly standard.

Ingredients ¼ cup warm water 1 envelope dry active yeast (hard to find in Mexico, substitute 2¼ tsps. of levadura instantanea) 4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour (additional for kneading) ¾ cup sugar (or more to taste) 3 whole eggs (large) 7 egg yolks ¼ tsp. salt 1½ Tbs. orange extract ¾ cup melted butter (additional for greasing the dough) 1cup candied fruits (citron, orange peel, cherries, quince paste) 2 baby Jesus figurines Instructions (Equipment other than measuring cups/spoons shown in bold type.)

Warm a large mixing bowl with hot water, wipe dry, and put in the warm water. Sprinkle the yeast over the surface and stir until dissolved. Let stand until foam forms (5-10 minutes).

Add about half the flour, mix until a dough forms, and knead on a floured surface until you have a moderately smooth ball. Clean and grease the mixing bowl, put the dough into it, and cover with a damp towel. Let rise until dough has doubled (25-30 minutes).

In a second large mixing bowl, stir together the remaining flour, sugar, whole eggs and egg yolks, salt, orange extract, and melted butter.

Combine with the risen dough and knead until the dough is smooth, evenly moist, and elastic. Form it into a log, put on a large platter, grease with additional butter, and smooth plastic wrap over the surface. Let the dough rest at room temperature for about 6 hours.

Preheat the oven to 375º F (180º C).

Divide the dough in half, place the halves on two buttered baking sheets, forming the “roscas.”

Carefully insert a baby Jesus into each cake, pinching and smoothing over the hole.

Decorate the rosca with the candied fruit and quince paste.

Bake for 15-20 minutes.

I love these cakes, and there are plenty of good bakeries in our area, so I do not intend to bake one. I am not sure if the number of babies Jesus's varies with the bakery, but it is something to take into account when/if you are selected to make the tamales. It is considered good luck to find the baby and an honor to host the party.

BITE 11

Culture, Cuisine and Conservation in Huatulco

By Serge Dedina

I

f there is a more beautiful beach in Mexico than Playa Cacaluta in the 29,383acre Huatulco National Park, I haven't seen it. The steep white sand beach is fringed with theme green mangroves and surrounded by tropical forest as far as the eye can see. Sea turtles, humpback whales and giant manta rays swim in the pristine waters offshore. “There are jaguars in the mountains and jaguarondi, anteaters and even deer along the coast,� said Saymi Pineda, our guide who works with Mexico's National Commission of Protected Areas or CONANP. I had just taken a tour of the fragile coral reefs of the national park in the company of a group of friends from Southern California and my team at WILDCOAST a conservation organization I co-founded in 2000. We are working with Saymi and her colleagues at CONANP and local dive outfitters to protect the delicate corals from overuse. To date we have installed more than 200 buoys that steer boaters away from the reef system.

Our lunch break was at Cacaluta. We swam ashore and were greeted by a beautifully set table under a ramada. I had expected maybe a few sandwiches - instead I was blown away by an al fresco Oaxacan feast. Chefs Eusebio Villalobos, Filberto Mendes and Jesus Lopez greeted us with refreshing agua de maracuya and soon we settled in for an incredible meal, served up by these passionate, young chefs committed to exploring the indigenous cuisine of southern Mexico.

BITE 12

The menu included dobladores de quesillo with flor de calabaza and epazote with roasted tomato sauce and avocado; fish tamales on yerba santa leaf with mashed sweet potato; marlin ceviche as well as escabeche de barrilete. It was an exquisite meal that reminded me of the inventiveness and passion of the food scene in northern Baja, the experience only heightened by the white sand beauty of Cacaluta.

Eusebio, Jesús and Filiberto all form part of Colectivo Tilcoatle in Huatulco, a group of artists and artisans who carry out artistic and gastronomic activities along the southern Oaxacan coast.

“The kitchen we manage is inspired by traditional cuisine. Most of the ingredients are from the region,” said Eusebio.

Hungry? Call Us We deliver!

Baguettes Mexican Breakfast

Plaza el Rosario Tel.: 958 118 8233 8:30am-10:00pm Closed Wednesday

The next 36 hours were a blur of sun, sand, sea turtles and incredible food. We witnessed a pre-dawn olive ridley sea turtle arribada at Morro Ayuta beach, and enjoyed another incredible meal served up by Eusebio, Filiberto and Jesus under the traditional palapa roof of eco-guide extraordinaire, Pablo Narvaez, in Barra de la Cruz. The menu included beet carpaccio, pineapple salad presented in a molcajete cured with mescal fire, peppers stuffed with mushrooms, tuna sashimi with ponzu sauce, and grilled tuna medallions (Pablo caught the tuna). We topped off the meal with a desert of fruta de jamaica with chocolate-mezcal sauce and earthy mezcal produced by the Colectivo.

“Eating this simple but abundant food, chatting with the chefs who are honoring and building upon Oaxaca's amazing cuisine, I felt closer to the land than I ever have,” said Kassie Siegel, who hails from Joshua Tree.

We were lucky to enjoy a perfect visit to what is arguably one of the most beautiful coastal regions of Mexico, rich in both wildlife and culture.

Huatulco’s Luxury Boutique Hotel

Serge Dedina is the Executive Director of WILDCOAST/COSTASALVAJE, an international conservation team that conserves coastal and marine ecosystems and wildlife. He is the author of Saving the Gray Whale, Wild Sea and Surfing the Border and lives in Imperial Beach, California, on the U.S.-Mexico border.

Toll Free Tel: 01-800-00-MAYEV Teléfonos: 958-587-2955, 958-587-2877 info@princessmayev.com

Resources: WILDCOAST: www.wildcoast.net Colectivo Tilcoatle: www.facebook.com/ColectivoTilcoatle-833043266723728/

www.PrincessMayev.com

Paseo Punta Santa Cruz, Huatulco

BITE 13

Marina Chahue, Huatulco Tel. 958 105 1671 Cel. 958 100 7339 Closed Mondays

Eating

off the beaten path Join Us for Brunch!

Sundays 9am- 3pm

Laguna de Manialtepec: La Puesta del Sol On the lagoon, family style Lagoon activities available Km. 124, Carretera costera (Rte. 200) Daily: 8am- 6pm Tel.: 954 124 7001 Credit Cards Accepted Boca Vieja Coyula: El Conejo Marinero Try the: Lobster and Oysters Tel: not available Daily: 8am- 6pm

www.cafejuanitamexico.com

Santa Maria Huatulco: Kayuko’s Try the: Tostadas Tel: 958 581 4396 Daily: 9am- 10pm Pluma Hidalgo:

La Flor de Café Try the: Mole de Olla Tel: 958 525 8108 Daily: 6am- 7pm

$45 USD + tax for two/ night *Restrictions apply and depends on availability.

You’re home away from home!

Corner of Mixie and Mixteco Chahue, Huatulco Tel: 958 103 5125 www.bwhuatulco.mx

Zimatan: ‘Village to Table’ dinners through Chiles&Chocolate Cooking School Try the: Venison with Raisins Tel: 958 100 7339 Friday Evenings 5pm-9pm www.HuatulcoCookingClasses.com

Local Seafood!

Open 9am- 6pm Tel. 958 111 1482 Closed Tuesdays Located in Copalita (10 Min. from Huatulco)

Receive a 10% discount at our restaurant with your copy of Bite!

BITE 14

Zipolite, san agustinillo, mazunte

So long as you have food in your mouth, you have solved all questions for the time being.

Franz Kafka

Zipolite Restaurant Guide Buda Mar Asian, Mexican, Beachfront Mid-Beach, Playa Zipolite Tel: 958 584 3356 Daily: 8am- 10pm Credit Cards Accepted

El Mare Italian, Seafood Entrance Roca Blanca Tel: 958 117 9492 Mon.-Sat.: 6pm-11pm Credit Cards Accepted

Cafe Maya- Casa Acalli Healthy, Fusion, Asian Mid-Beach, Playa Zipolite Tel.: 958 584 3300 Daily: 8am- 8pm Credit Cards Accepted

DonDe Franco Italian, Pasta, Desserts Adoquin- Main Road Tel: 958 584 3290 Mon.-Sat.: 7am-12am Cash Only

Chipirin Wine, Tapas, Cigars Entrance Roca Blanca Tel: 958 585 8433 Mon.-Sat.: 10:30am–9:30pm Cash Only

La Providencia Gourmet Food, International Calle Shambala Tel: 958 100 9234 Wed. – Sun.: 6pm- 10:30 pm Cash Only

Comedor Alex Mexican, Casual Main Road by Playa del Amor Tel.: Not available Daily: 9am- 10pm Cash Only

Lola's Mexican, Seafood, Playa del Amor Tel: 958 584 3162 Daily: 7am – 11pm Cash Only

El Alquimista Pizza, Beachfront Playa Zipolite Tel: 958 587 8961 Daily: 8am- 11:30pm Credit Cards Accepted

Nice Place on the Beach Breakfast, Mexican Mid- beach, Playa Zipolite Tel: 958 584 3195 Daily: 7am-4:30pm, Bar open until 2am Cash Only

Nude International, Seafood Mid-Beach Tel: 958 584 3062 Daily: 8am – 10:30pm Credit Cards Accepted Orale Café Breakfast, Quiche, Baguettes Calle Shambala Tel.: 958 117 7129 Thurs.– Mon.: 8am- 3pm Cash only Pacha Mama Steak, Italian, Pizza Calle Los Mangles Tel: 958 106 6164 Fri.- Wed.: 6pm – 12am Credit Cards Accepted Posada Mexico Restaurant Mexican, Pizza, Italian Mid-Beach Tel: 958 584 3194 Thurs.- Tues.: 8:30am-11pm Cash Only 3 de Diciembre Pizza, Vegetarian options Entrance Roca Blanca Tel 958 584 3157 Daily: 6:30pm- 2am Credit Cards Accepted Tutti-Frutti Crepes, Ice Cream, Coffee Adoquin- Main Road Tel: 958 106 1784 Daily: 9am – 10pm Cash Only

San Agustinillo and Mazunte Restaurant Guide San Agustinillo Casa Aamori Mexican, Seafood, Gourmet Calle Principal Tel: 958 111 6570 Daily: 8am– 6pm Credit Cards Accepted La Mora Café Waffles, Italian, Sandwiches Calle Principal Tel.: 958 584 6422 Wed.- Mon.: 8am-2pm, 6pm- 10pm Cash only La Termita Pizza, Pasta Calle Principal Tel.: 958 589 3046 Daily: 8am- 3pm, 6.30pm11pm Credit Cards Accepted

El Agujon Pizzeria Pizza Playa Rinconcito Tel.: 958 116 8944 Daily: 7am- 11pm Cash Only

La Cuisine French, International Playa Rinconcito Tel.: 958 107 1836 Tues.– Sun.: 6:30pm- 11pm Cash Only

Estrella Fugaz International Cuisine Playa Rinconcito Tel: 958 113 2895 Daily: 7:30am- 11:30pm Credit Cards Accepted

La Empanada Mexican, Pizza, International Avenida Principal (beside The Body Shop) Tel: 958 100 1689 Daily: 4pm - 11pm Credit Cards Accepted

Kapricho Seafood Playa Rinconcito Tel.: 958 113 2895 Daily: 1pm- midnight Credit Cards Accepted

Siddhartha Fusion Playa Rinconcito Daily: 9am- 11pm Cash Only

Pollos Hermanos Roasted chicken Calle Principal Tel.: 958 113 2140 Tues.- Sun.: noon- 10pm Cash only

Mazunte Alessandro Italian-Mexican Fusion Playa Rinconcito 958 122 0700 Thurs.– Mon.: 6pm - 11pm Credit Cards Accepted Ek Balam Parrilla Tapas Bar Playa Rinconcito Tel.: 958 583 7667 Open 24 hours Credit Cards Accepted

BITE 17

Lunch with...

Alain Sรกnchez Rojas

By Jane Bauer Location: Cala Club, Montecito Menu: Mint Cucumber Agua White Wine: Vina Maipo, Sauvignon Blanc Red Snapper with Plantain Puree and Truffle Oil

BITE 18

Name: Alain Sánchez Rojas Position: Executive Chef at Montecito Beach Village, Huatulco Originally from: Santa Maria Huatulco, Oaxaca, Mexico What did you have for breakfast this morning?

Bean and nopal tostadas with queso fresco from the Saturday morning organic market.

Why do you cook?

I grew up in a family that cooked togetherwhen I cook now I feel like it connects me with my childhood.

Who has influenced you?

Spanish chefs Martin Berasategui and Gorka Txapartegui What are you reading?

Cooking with Joan Roca at Low Temperatures What are you watching?

Suits on Netflix Favorite restaurant?

Arzak in San Sebastián, Spain Who is your hero?

My parents Travel goals?

India

Describe your style?

Spontaneous. I like to see what I can create in the moment with what is available.

Last day on earth … what would your final meal be?

Dark chocolate and red wine.

Huatulco Weddings

www.HuatulcoWeddings.net BITE 19

Fresh Chile Guide Jalapeño Mirasol

Chile de Agua

Costeño Tusta

Manzanita

Serrano

Poblano Habanero Photos by Artpowerhouse

BITE 20

Dried Chile Guide Mirasol

CosteĂąo

Chipotle

Guajillo

Tusta

Chile de Arbol

Chile Ancho BITE 21

Tamales on Candlemas Day DĂ­a de La Candelaria

By Marcia Chaiken

T

amales, in addition to being among the most delicious Mexican treats, are a bridge between two holidays and two cultures. On January 6, the celebration of the visit of three kings bearing gifts for the baby in Bethlehem, a cake called rosca de reyes is traditionally served. People who find a tiny figurine of the baby Jesus in their slice of cake are then traditionally obligated to provide tamales on Candlemas, February 2, to all who shared the same rosca.

Why tamales on Candlemas? The day celebrates the first presentation of Jesus at the Jewish Temple in Jerusalem after his mother Mary (or Miriam in Hebrew) observed the prescribed Jewish rite of purification for mothers who have given birth to a son. One might think that the tamales, wrapped in either corn husks or banana leaves, represent the swaddled infant. However, the one ingredient essential in tamales is corn. And corn, representing life, was always a part of the celebration of the first day of the Aztec year, which coincidentally occurs on February 2.

Tamales appear to have been part and parcel of Aztec cuisine long before the first Christian set foot on the North American continent. We don't have an Aztec recipe for tamales, but a dear friend, who had found a baby Jesus in her rosca at five different parties one year, involved me in making tamales for the better part of the day before Candlemas in that year. We began by preparing a rich chicken broth, saving the chicken for a filling.

BITE 22

While the broth was simmering, we soaked the corn husks and banana leaves, adding a few drops of disinfectant, drained and dried them. We also prepared a multi-ingredient mole sauce and a green sauce made from tomatillos, onions, cilantro and other greens. Once the broth was ready and cooled, we prepared the corn dough, first adding baking powder and salt to the corn meal (masa) and then progressively beating and beating and beating broth and oil into the mixture until the dough was just firm enough to hold its shape. Our oil replaced the traditional lard used in such recipes, appropriately enough, since for Jewish ritual purposes Joseph and Mary would never have prepared or eaten pork of any kind.

The dough rested while we prepared the banana leaves, trimming them and quickly heating them on a grill. Then we assembled the tamales, smearing a thin layer of dough on the corn husks and banana leaves, adding a layer of shredded chicken, topped by a spoonful of mole or green salsa. The leaves and husks were folded over into an envelope that then was placed standing up in a very large steamer. Once the steaming was underway, we cleaned up the considerable mess in the kitchen and then sat gossiping until one tamal (singular of tamales) was tested and found to have a firm layer of dough that easily peeled off the wrapper and contained wonderful mingled tastes of chicken and mole or salsa. Delicious!

Tamales can also be filled with beef, pork, cheese, beans or a combination, and sweet tamales and be prepared using fruits and nuts. But without the corn dough, it's simply not a tamal. Here's to tamales, to corn, and to life.

Puerto Escondido

Cooking is like love.

It should be entered into with abandon or not at all.

Harriet Van Horne

Puerto Escondido Restaurant Guide Zicatela Brad's Split Coconut Live Music, Bar and Grill Playa Zicatela Tel: 954 104 2689 Wed.- Mon.:2:30pm- 9:30pm Cash only Cayuco Cocina y Mezcal Oaxacan Food, Mezcal Main Street Playa Zicatela Tel: 954 134 5777 Tues.– Sun.: 2pm- 10pm Credit Cards Accepted Costeñito Cevicheria Mexican, Seafood Main Street Playa Zicatela Tel: 954 127 0424 Daily: 1:00pm- 11:00pm Credit Cards Accepted El Cafecito Fresh baked goods, Mexican and International Cuisine Main Street Playa Zicatela Tel: 954 582 0516 Daily: 6:00am- 11:00pm Credit Cards Accepted EL MANA Salads, Vegetarian options Main Street Playa Zicatela Tel: 954 582 2966 Daily: 8:30am- 10:30pm Credit Cards Accepted Dan's Cafe Deluxe Breakfast and Lunch Calle Jacarandas # 14 Tel: 954 582 2760 Daily: 7:00am- 4:00pm Credit Cards Accepted Fresh Restaurant & Lounge Casual, Creative, Beachfront Main Street Playa Zicatela Tel: 954 559 2968 Daily: 2:00pm- 11:00pm Credit Cards Accepted

BITE 24

Hotel Santa Fe Restaurant Vegetarian options, Mexican Main Street Playa Zicatela Tel: 954 582 0170 Daily: 7:30am- 10:30pm Credit Cards Accepted

Sativa Terraza Fusion, Drinks, Vegetarian Main Street Playa Zicatela Tel: 954 582 4384 Mon.– Sat.: 3pm- 12am Credit Cards Accepted

Kuhl Frozen Yogurt Frozen yogurt, dessert Main Street Playa Zicatela Tel: 954 104 2031 Daily: 11:00am- 10:00pm (Sundays they open at 2pm) Cash only

Spirulina Smoothie and Juice Bar Calle Bajada las BrisasJust off main street Tel: 954 582 1375 Wed.– Mon.: 8am- 10pm Credit Cards Accepted

Palapita Bar Beach Bar, Smoothies Main Street Playa Zicatela Tel: 555 460 0195 Wed.– Mon.:11am- midnight Cash only

Adoquin/ Playa Principal

Palma Negra Ice Cream Main Street Playa Zicatela Tel: 954 107 7112 Daily: 12:00pm- 11:00pm Cash only Peconi Artisanal Gelato Main Street Playa Zicatela Tel: 954 104 4530 Wed.- Mon.: 4pm- 10:30pm Cash Only Playa Kabbalah Seafood, Lounge, Dancing Main Street Playa Zicatela Tel: 954 582 3887 Daily: 8:00am- 3:00am Credit Cards Accepted Revolucion Beach Snack food, baguettes Main Street Playa Zicatela Tel: 449 155 1777 Tues.– Sun.: 12:00pm12:00am Credit Cards Accepted

Benditos Italian, Pizza Adoquin Tel: 954 588 2186 Wednesday- Monday: 4:30pm-11:30pm Cash Only Gringo Burger El Adoquin Tel: 954 559 2219 Sun - Sat 12:00 pm - 2:00 am La Galeria Italian, International El Adoquin Tel.: 954 582 2039 8:00am- 11:00pm Pascale Grill, Seafood, Steak El Adoquin Tel: 954 103 0668 Tues.- Sun.: 6pm- 11pm Credit Cards Accepted

Rinconada Almoraduz Gourmet Mexican Cuisine Main Street, Rinconada Tel: 954 582 3109 Daily: 7:00 am- 10:00 pm Credit Cards Accepted El Cafecito Fresh baked goods, Mexican and International Cuisine Main Street Rinconada Tel: 954 582 3465 Daily: 6:00am- 10:00pm Credit Cards Accepted El Nene Mexican and International Main Street, Rinconada Tel: 954 102 5701 Mon.– Sat.: 2pm- 11pm Cash only El Sultan Middle Eastern Food Main Street, Rinconada Tel 954 582 0512 Tues.– Sun.: 8am- 10pm Credit Cards Accepted Espadin Gourmet Mexican Food, Amazing view Inside Villas Carrizalillo Hotel Tel: 954 582 0995 Daily: 8:00am- 10:00pm Credit Cards Accepted

Palma Negra Ice Cream Main Street Rinconada Tel: 954 107 7112 Daily: 10:00am- 10:00pm Cash only Paris le Bistrot French, Mussels Main Street Rinconada Tel: 954 109 0723 Thur.– Tues.: 4pm- 11pm Cash only

Turtle Bay Restaurant Seafood, Steak Main Street Rinconada Tel: 954 147 7469 Tues.– Sun.: 11am- 10pm Credit Cards Accepted

La Punta Alaburger Barbecue, Fusion Alejandro Cárdenas Peralta, Punta Zicatela, Tel.: 55 4913 8249 Daily: 1:00pm - 11:00pm Credit Cards Accepted

Pez Gallo Seafood, Mexican Villa Sol Hotel, Bacocho Tel.: 954 582 0350 Daily: 8:00am- 6:00pm Credit Cards Accepted

Lychee Thai Food Thai Alejandro Cárdenas Peralta, La Punta Tel.: 954 134 5718 Sun.– Sat.: 5pm- 12:30am Credit Cards Accepted

Sushi en Rinconada Japanese, Sushi Main Street Rinconada Tel.: 954 582 0606 2:30pm- 10:00pm

Rinconada Adoquin

Estrellas Gourmet International Mexican Main Street, Rinconada Tel: 954 582 3420 Mon.– Sat.: 8am- 10pm Credit Cards Accepted Luna Rossa Italian, Pasta, Pizza Main Street, Rinconada Tel: 954 104 2181 Wed.- Mon.: 2:30pm10:30pm Credit Cards Accepted

Zicatela

Puerto Escondido La Punta

BITE 25

Local and Farm Fresh: A Day with the Chefs of Almoraduz Cocina Autor de Mexicana Text and photos by Sandra Roussy

R

ated the #1 restaurant in Puerto Escondido on TripAdvisor, Almoraduz definitely has carved out its top spot for a reason.

Quetzalcóatl Zurita and Shalxaly Macías are the pair behind the culinary delights that come out of the Almoraduz kitchen. The traditional and distinctive flavors of Oaxaca inspire every single plate that they innovatively craft for their restaurant.

Their day begins with a trip to the local market in Puerto Escondido to purchase fresh and entirely locally grown products. I accompanied Quetzalcóatl on a Saturday morning to experience first-hand the hustle and bustle that goes on there. He took pleasure in showing me the local vegetables, flowers, beans, herbs, fish, meats and insects that help him to create the dishes at Almoraduz.

All of these are, needless to say, organic and essentially farm-to-table fresh. The inspirations for the Almoraduz cuisine entirely come from the products that they find in this market. Every new dish that is proposed is a direct outcome of what they find there, products that are delivered every day by the farmers from the neighboring villages and fished from the Pacific Ocean that day. They buy seasonal products, go straight to their kitchen, and experiment with new ideas to introduce the traditions of Oaxaca in a modern and accessible manner to their growing customer base. As the rainy season flows into the dry season, the menu changes and accommodates the new products that become available.

To a foreigner like me, this traditional Mexican mercado is an explosion of colors, aromas and is essentially bursting with newness. Many of these products are unique to the region and some are actually items that we would disregard and not think to add to our own cooking. Oaxaca has an international reputation for being a culinary experience like no other. Where else than in Oaxaca do we make weeds and insects taste incredible!

Keeping it local for the pair also means providing work for local artists and suppliers. All aspects that go into the making of the restaurant, from the serving sets to the interior design, were all provided by local artisans and businesses.

Almoraduz is the name of a plant that grows in the area and that was used in the chef's family kitchen when he

BITE 26

was growing up. He now uses this plant in many of his dishes; it is a comfort food for him and also reminds him of his roots. The dishes prepared at Almoraduz are nothing short but works of art. A lot of detail goes into creating and executing every plate that is ordered. The menu is compact but always diverse enough to cater to a variety of palates. Also available is an exclusive cocktails list, local mezcals, and a wine selection that are all well harmonized with the dishes.

Eating at Almoraduz is not only a question of savoring a good meal; it is a full culinary journey through the flavors of Oaxaca and the culture of its people. www.almoraduz.com.mx/home www.facebook.com/almoraduzrestaurante/

BITE 28

oaxaca city

A crust eaten in peace is better than a banquet partaken in anxiety.

Aesop

Oaxaca City Restaurant Guide Atila Del Sur Traditional Mexican Martires de Tacubaya 405, Centro Tel.: 951 439 8990 Thurs.- Sat.: 7pm- midnight Cash only Azucena Zapoteca Traditional Oaxacan Alcala 303, Centro Tel.: 951 516 7456 Daily: 8am-10pm Credit Cards Accepted Boulenc Bakery, Coffee, Sandwiches Porfirio Diaz 207, Centro Tel.: 951 351 3648 Mon.– Fri.: 8:30am- 8:30pm Saturday 8:30am- 4pm Credit Cards Accepted Cabuche Traditional Mexican Miguel Hidalgo 1017, Centro Tel.: 951 514 1672 Mon.– Sat.: 10am- 10pm Cash Only Cafe Bistrot Epicuro Italian Vicente Guerrero 319, Centro Tel.: 951 514 9750 Wednesday- Monday: 1:30pm- 10pm Credit Cards Accepted Casa Estambul Mezcal, Live Music, Mexican Allende 316, Centro Tel: 951 156 0321 Daily: 8:30am-1am Credit Cards Accepted

Casa Oaxaca Café Gourmet Oaxacan Jazmines 518, Colonia Reforma Tel.: 951 502 6017 Mon.- Sat.: 7:30am- 11pm Sunday: 10am - 6pm Credit Cards Accepted Casa Oaxaca Restaurant Gourmet Oaxacan Constitucion 104A, Centro Tel.: 951 516 8889 Mon.– Sat.: 1pm - 11pm Sun.: 1pm- 9pm Credit Cards Accepted Casa Taviche Mexican, Latin American Miguel Hidalgo 1111, Centro Tel.:951 688 5440 Mon.- Thurs.: 1pm- 6pm Fri.- Sat.: 1pm- 10pm Cash Only Catedral Mexican, International Garcia Vigil 105, Centro Tel.: 951 516 3285 Wed.– Mon.: 8am- 11pm Credit Cards Accepted Criollo Gourmet Oaxacan Calzada Madero 129 Tel.: 951 351 1908 Tues.– Fri.: 1:30pm-10:30 pm Saturday: 10am- 10:30 pm Sun: 10am- 7pm Credit Cards Accepted

El Asador Vasco Steakhouse, Spanish Portal de las Flores 10, Zocalo Centro Tel.: 951 514 4755 Daily: 2pm- 11pm Credit Cards Accepted El Escapulario Traditional Mexican Garcia Vigil 617, Centro Tel.: 951153 6598 Daily: 8am - 11pm Cash Only El Destilado Contemporary Mexican Calle 5 de Mayo 409, Centro Tel.: 951 516 2226 Tues.– Sun.: 5pm- 11:30pm Credit Cards Accepted El Morocco Middle Eastern Reforma 905, Centro Tel.: 951 513 6804 Tues.– Sun.: noon- 11pm Credit Cards Accepted El Olivo Tapas, Paella, Pasta Constitucion 207, Centro Tel: 951 501 0333 Tues.- Sat.: 4pm- 1am Sunday: 2pm- 11pm Credit Cards Accepted Expendio Tradicion Traditional Oaxacan Reforma Esquina Murguia, Centro Tel.: 951 501 1460 Daily: 1pm- 1am Credit Cards Accepted Hosteria de Alcalá Mexican, Art Macedonio Alcalá #307 Tel.:951 516 2093 Daily: 9am-10pm Credit Cards Accepted

BITE 30

il Giaguaro Mediterranean, Italian Santos Degollado 609-A, Centro Tel: 951 351 0072 Daily: 2pm- 11pm Credit Cards Accepted In Situ Mezcaleria Mezcal bar Morelos 511, Centro Tel.: 951 524 1811 Mon.– Sat.: 1pm- 11pm Credit Cards Accepted Gourmand Delicatessen European-style Deli Porfirio Diaz 410, Centro Tel.: 951 516 4435 Mon. – Sat. 9am- 1am Credit Cards Accepted La Biznaga Fresh International Gourmet Garcia Vigil 512, Centro Tel.: 951 516 1800 Daily: 10am-10pm Credit Cards Accepted La Casa de la Abuela Traditional Oaxacan Hidalgo 616, Centro Tel.: 951 516 3544 Daily: 1pm- 9pm Credit Cards Accepted La Matatena Pizzeria Gourmet Pizza Garcia Vigil 212, Centro Tel.: 951 207 4142 Tues.- Sun.: 5pm- 10pm Credit Cards Accepted La Popular Fusion Oaxacan Jesus Carranza 105, Centro Tel.: 951 206 2751 Daily: 10am- 11pm Credit Cards Accepted La Olla Mexican Gourmet Reforma 402, Centro Tel.: 951 516 6668 Mon.– Sat.: 8am-10pm Credit Cards Accepted

Las Quince Letras Traditional Oaxacan Abasolo 300, Centro Tel.: 951 514 3769 Daily: 9am- 9pm Credit Cards Accepted Los Danzantes Gourmet Mexican Macedonio Alcala No. 403-4, Centro Tel.: 951 501 1184 Daily: 1pm- 11pm Credit Cards Accepted Los Pacos Oaxacan Belisario Dominguez 108, Colonia Reforma Tel.: 951 515 3573 Tues.– Sun.: 8:30am- 6:30 pm Credit Cards Accepted Marco Polo Family-style, Mexican Pino Suarez 806, Centro Tel.: 951 513 4308 Daily: 9am- 6pm Credit Cards Accepted Mexita Pizza, Italian Federico Ortiz Armegol 105, Colonia Reforma Tel.: 951 520 2180 Tues.- Sun.: 2pm- 9:30pm Credit Cards Accepted Mezquite. Gastronomia y destilados Contemporary Mexican Garcia Vigil 601-A, Centro Tel.: 951 514 2099 Mon – Sat.: 8am- midnight Sunday: 8am- 9pm Credit Cards Accepted Mezzaluna Italian, Pizza, Pasta Allende 113, Centro Tel.: 951 516 8195 Daily: 1pm- 11pm Credit Cards Accepted

Oaxacalifornia Oaxaca/Baja California Fusion Av. Universidad 200 Tel: 951 506 1149 Mon.- Sat.: 7:30am- 11pm Sunday: 9am- 6pm Credit Cards Accepted Oscuro Brebaje Alameda British, Mexican, Vegetarian Hidalgo 608, Centro Tel: 951 205 6786 Daily: 8am- 10pm Credit Cards Accepted Origen Contemporary Oaxacan Hidalgo 820, Centro Tel.: 951 501 1764 Daily: 1pm- 11pm Credit Cards Accepted Pitiona Contemporary Mexican Ignacio Allende 114, Centro Tel.: 951 514 0690 Mon.– Sat.: 1pm- 11pm Sunday: 1pm- 9pm Credit Cards Accepted Sabina Sabe Modern Mexican 5 de Mayo 209, Centro Tel.: 951 514 3494 Daily: 1pm- midnight Credit Cards Accepted Sacapalabras Mezcal, Live Music, Art Garcia Virgil & Quetzacoatl, Centro Tel: 951 351 8371 Daily: 2pm- 2am Credit Cards Accepted Santisima Flor de Lupulo Tapas and Artisanal Beer Ignacio Allende 215, Centro Tel: 951 516 4435 Mon. – Sat.: 5pm- 1am Credit Cards Accepted

BITE 31

Huitla...what?Huitlacoche

By Jane Bauer Huitlacoche (corn fungus or corn smut) develops on pesticide-free organic corn as it ripens after the rainy season or an errant rainstorm. Huitlacoche will consume the corn kernels and push itself out through the corn shucks, easily visible in a cornfield.

Huitlacoche is also super healthy; it is full of the amino acid lysine (which builds muscle, strengthens bones, fights infections and keeps skin looking young). It also contains more cholesterol reducing beta glucans than oatmeal, and more protein than most of the mushroom family.

While these corn smut mushrooms are often pureed to a paste and used in omelets and empanadas, my favorite way to eat them is sauteed whole and fresh, with guajillo chile and almonds. I like to serve them on toasted baguette and topped with queso fresco for a yummy appetizer. Don’t use canned huitlacoche- it will make you think you don’t like it!

Tobaziche Modern Mexican Calle 5 de Mayo 311, Centro Tel.: 951 516 8116 Daily: 1:30pm- 12:30am Credit Cards Accepted TR3S 3ISTRO Oyster Bar, French, Seafood Zocalo, Centro Tel.: 951 501 0407 Daily: 9am- 11:30pm Credit Cards Accepted Xuncu Choco Mexican Independencia 403, Centro, Tel.: 951 501 1169 Mon. – Sat.: 8am- 9:30pm Cash Only Yu Ne Nisa Juchitan food Amapolas 1425, Col Reforma Tel: 951 515 6982 Daily: 12pm- 8pm Cash Only Zandunga Mexican Istmeño Garcia Vigil 512-E, Centro Tel.: 951 516 2265 Mon.– Sat.: 2pm- 11pm Credit Cards Accepted

BITE 32

Oaxaca City

The Origin of Chocolate

By Brooke Gazer

P

ersonally, I can't imagine a world without chocolate, but before Cortez conquered Mexico it did not exist in Europe. In fact, it was centuries later before the confection that we know today came into being. In Mexico, where chocolate originated, it was not a sweet treat, but a bitter tasting beverage, mixed with chile and sometimes with blood. Apparently when Cortez first tasted it he commented that it was, “more a drink for pigs than for humanity.”

Believing chocolate to have divine properties, the Mayans and Aztecs reserved it for royalty and high priests. Common people might only have partaken during sacred rituals like birth, marriage, and death.

Those about to be sacrificed were often given a gourd of chocolate, tinged with the blood of previous victims, to cheer them up. Of course, some fermentation had occurred and who knows what other intoxicants were added? Apparently, this concoction lifted their melancholy mood long enough for those victims to join in the dancing, climb the steps, lie over a stone altar and permit their hearts to be ripped from their chests.

For centuries, cacao beans were used as currency in Mexico. Around 900 A.D., ten beans bought a rabbit.

Cortez maintained this form of currency after the conquest, but the cost of a rabbit had risen to thirty beans. Inflation has been with us for a very long time.

Many Mexicans seem almost addicted to sugar, but prior to the conquest, it was unknown in Mexico. The Spanish controlled most of the Caribbean Islands and with these islands came sugar cane.

An industrious entrepreneur brought some to Mexico and one of the world's first fusion recipes was born. A sweet drink made with cacao and sugar became popular, quickly spreading to Europe. Once someone thought to omit the chili, this beverage really took off as dozens of chocolate houses opened on the continent.

In the early 1800s, a Dutchman named Coenraad Van Houten developed a process allowing cocoa to mix more easily with water. This made it possible for people to prepare the beverage at home. Most of us enjoy this satisfying hot drink made with milk, but in Mexico it is still more commonly made with water.

Half a century later, Joseph Fry revolutionized the chocolate industry. This British inventor added cocoa butter and sugar to the cocoa powder, introducing the world's first solid chocolate.

Daniel Peter and Henri Nestlé of Switzerland later added condensed milk, creating milk chocolate. The race had begun to produce the best sweet treat, when another Swiss gentleman, Rudolph Lindt, invented a machine that mixed chocolate to a perfect consistency. By 1907, Milton Hershey's factory was popping out 33 million kisses per day in eastern Pennsylvania in the U.S. Today Fry, Nestlé, Lindt, and Hershey are still synonymous with the world’s most loved confection. The Aztecs and the Mayans, who originally developed cacaobean processing have, for the most part, been overlooked.

Brooke operates a luxury B&B in Huatulco.

www.bbaguaazul.com

BITE 33

Blogger of the Season Mexican Black Bean Soup I'm Mely Martínez, a former schoolteacher and food blogger, born and raised in Mexico.

I am passionate about sharing the culture and rich gastronomy of my home country with the world, and with this idea in mind I started my blog “México in my Kitchen,” where Mexican food enthusiasts can find their favorite recipes for authentic Mexican dishes that everyone can enjoy.

My blog “Mexico in my Kitchen” started almost ten years ago, in December of 2008, as a way to preserve our heritage and to share my love for authentic Mexican recipes with my son, but it has grown to be a true gateway that allows me to connect and meet with people from all over the world and showcase our recipes, family stories and cultural tidbits about México.

I love to share the traditional home-style meals of Mexico. And must of the times I try to present the recipes in an easy, step-by-step process so that readers can cook an authentic Mexican meal in their own kitchen; each post also adds a little background about the history of the recipe and the region of the country where it originated.

I hope you enjoy our blog and if you do, please share it with your friends, family and loved ones.

Thank you Visit Mely’s Blog: www.mexicoinmykitchen.com

Cuisine: Mexican Servings: 4 Author: Mely Martínez – México in my Kitchen There are many versions of Mexican Black Bean Soup throughout Mexico. This one, in particular, uses chorizo and is inspired by one that I had many years ago in the town Poza Rica, Veracruz. It’s a simpler version of the famous Frijoles Charros, which uses many more ingredients.

I’m using homemade beans for this recipe, but you can also use canned ones. Homemade beans can be cooked in large batches and conveniently frozen in small containers or freezer bags. This is a regular custom with many cooks in my family; we make large amounts of beans and always have some ready in the freezer!

When making this soup, I don’t always add the poblano peppers, since they’re not always available (although they do add a lot of flavor). This is why I’ve listed them as optional, so don’t worry about it if you can’t find them.

This Black Bean Soup is hearty and wholesome and is great as a main meal on a cold winter evening. Enjoy!

BITE 34

Ingredients 6 oz. soft Mexican chorizo (about 2 medium links), removed from the casing ½ cup chopped white onion 1 poblano pepper, seeds and stems removed, chopped (optional) 2 serrano peppers, chopped 2 cups chopped tomatoes 4 cups cooked black beans with some of the bean broth 1 cup water 4 corn tortillas cut into fine strips ¼ cup vegetable oil (to fry tortilla strips) ¼ cup chopped cilantro 1 avocado (sliced for garnish) Instructions 1. Using a large saucepan over medium heat, fry the chorizo in its own fat until cooked (about 8 minutes).

2. Add the chopped onion and cook until it starts to look transparent (about 2 minutes), then stir in the chopped peppers and for another 3 minutes. Then stir in the chopped tomatoes and cook for about 6-8 minutes.

3. Add the beans in their broth and the cup of water and cook until it comes to a boil. Reduce the heat and gently simmer for another 5 minutes.

4. While the soup is cooking, heat the oil in a large skillet and fry the tortilla strips until crisp. Remove from pan with a slotted spoon and place on paper towels to drain excess oil.

5. Ladle the soup into bowls and garnish with the fried tortilla chips, chopped cilantro and avocado..

Sometimes I add a little bit of beer to the soup while cooking, but this is optional.

Great Getaway!

Puerto Escondido

Where to stay: Hotel Santa Fe Located on Playa Zicatela with ocean views, pools, and a fabulous restaurant, it is the perfect place to stay. www.hotelsantafe.com.mx What to eat: Risotto at Almoraduz What to do: Take a day trip out to the Lagunas de Manialtepec for wonderful bird watching or an evening of bioluminescence.

Frutas y Verduras: A Fresh Food Lover's Guide to Mexico

By Margret Hefner and Kary Vannice

Women, from the very old, bent and wizened, to those with small children in tow, travel long hours to various markets with that day's produce. Without a set stall “address”, they'll set up on the fringes of the mercado, at a weekly tianguis, or perhaps at a bus stop or in a plaza.

Some roam the streets with pails on their arms, others lay a cloth on the ground with tidy piles of fruits, vegetables, and often, handmade tortillas made from freshly ground nixtamal laid out before them. They are marchantes: itinerant vendors.

What they have to offer you is pure gold in exchange for a few pesos.

When personal chef Margret Hefner moved to Mexico, she soon learned she preferred to buy her produce from these vendors. In doing so, she began learning about foods that are unique to Mexico and truly the foundation of the gastronomy.

These daily trips to the local markets were the motivation behind her recent “passion project,” a self-published digital guide that she titled simply Frutas y Verduras: A Fresh Food Lover's Guide to Mexico.

If you've ever been mystified by the local/native fruits and vegetables here in Mexico, this wonderfully informative and beautiful ebook will demystify them for you. You'll find everything from how to pronounce their names to how to know when they are ready and ripe for eating and preparing. By adding the regional foods of Mexico to your dietary lexicon, you participate in their continued preservation.

You can find Margret's ebook in iTunes and Kobo online stores, or you can visit her personal website where she offers a "Pay What You Wish" payment system http://fyvmexico.com/fyv-book-pwyw.

If you're not sure if this guide is for you, here's what one reader had to say after she purchased chef Margret's book, “Loved this book! (It's) so immensely helpful when I lived in Mexico and I am finding it very useful traveling in Europe as there are familiar ingredients here as well. Well worth it and will come in very handy when cooking and sourcing ingredients all over Mexico, South and Central America.” –Faith C.

BITE 35

The Cuisine of the Yucatán

By Deborah Van Hoewyk

I

t takes more than a quick charter and lying on the beautiful beaches of Mexico's Caribbean coast to really appreciate the subtleties of the regional cuisine of the Yucatán. In fact, Rick Bayless, Chicago's famed authority on Mexican food, spent two entire seasons of his U.S. public television show exploring Yucatecan cooking.

The cuisine comes down from the Maya, but given that the Yucatán was the landing site for the Spanish conquistadors and then international trade, the cuisine has been modified by European influences, including the Dutch fondness for cheese; there are Caribbean and Lebanese strains in Yucatecan dishes as well.

Along the coast, of course, fish and seafood have been key sources of protein, while poultry and pork are widely used in the interior.

Some dishes have spread throughout Mexico and beyond (ceviche, thought to come from Latin American countries on the Pacific, is now a restaurant specialty throughout the entire Latin Caribbean), while some foods and flavors are unique to the area.

The tropical climate presents a challenge for preserving food, so smoking, brining, and marinating are key techniques in traditional dishes—this gives you a “flavor base” of citrus fruits (notably the sour Seville orange brought over by the Spaniards, which largely replaces vinegar in the cuisine), hot peppers (mostly habaneros), smoke, and achiote, a sweet-sour-ish sauce based on ground red annatto seeds. The Yucatán is also renowned for its recados, spice mixes adapted to different dishes; the recados can be used as flavor bases, rubs, or sauce thickeners, and are often marketed for particular dishes, as in recado para bifstek (for steak).

Some say that cochinita pibil—pork roasted in a pit—is the most famous dish of the Yucatán; glued to the screen during Rick Bayless' episode on cochinita pibil, I thought “Not about to make that, have to get back to the Yucatan.” A whole suckling pig is covered in a spice paste, wrapped in banana leaves, then slow-cooked in a sealed barbecue pit, suffusing the meat with spice and smoke. Pibil is also practiced more generally as a food preservation and cooking method, allowing people in the rural parts of the peninsula to live off the land.

Dishes that originated in or are unique to the Yucatán include chilaquiles (a breakfast dish of fried tortilla chips or strips simmered in the salsa of your choice, often topped with other breakfast food—beans, eggs, etc.), poc chuc (pork slices brined in salt for preservation and then marinated in a sourorange/achiote sauce and cooked over a grill, preferably over a wood fire), papadzules (the unique Yucatecan tamale made of hard-boiled eggs wrapped in tortillas and covered with a tomato/pumpkin-seed sauce), sopa de lima (chickenlime soup), sopa seca (a broth-soaked rice dish that hosts any variety of ingredients), and queso relleno (a whole round of Edam cheese, hollowed out and filled with a mixture of ground pork; tomatoes, peppers, and onions; and raisins, capers, olives, herbs, and spices).

INVIERTE E IMPULSA TU NEGOCIO! Anunciate con nosotros!

TheEyeHuatulco@gmail.com Cel.: 958 100 7339 BITE 36

Crêpes, Salads, Sandwiches Hotel Maxico, Santa Cruz, Huatulco Mon.- Sat.: 7:00am-11:00pm Tel.: 958 122 7183

INSTRUCTIONS You will need a glass baking dish large enough to accommodate the fish; preheat the oven to 325º.

Prepare the fish: Put the fish in the baking dish and prick both sides with a small knife or fork.

Rub in the salt and citrus juice, and put it in the refrigerator to marinate for 2 – 3 hours.

Huachinango a la Veracruzana (Red Snapper Veracruz-style) While Veracruz cooking is not completely synonymous with Yucatecan cuisine, this particular recipe makes good use of the region's tart, sunshiny, and complex flavors. It can be a complicated recipe with hard-to-find ingredients, but this simple version is based on an early Diana Kennedy cookbook put out by Sunset Books in the late 1970s. (It's the first Mexican dish I ever made, after I came back from my first trip to Mexico.)

INGREDIENTS 1 whole red snapper (3 – 3½ pounds), cleaned and scaled but with the head and tail still on 1 tsp salt

Prepare the sauce: Heat half (¼ cup) the oil in a skillet and saute the sliced onion and garlic until soft.

Add all the remaining ingredients and cook over medium-high heat until the flavors meld and the sauce has thickened but is still liquid (about 10 – 12 minutes).

Cook the dish: Pour the sauce over the fish and drizzle the remaining oil evenly over the sauce. You should see a zig-zag pattern over the surface of the dish; it may not take all the remaining oil.

Loosely cover the dish with aluminum foil or parchment paper, put it in the the oven and bake for about 20 minutes, basting frequently with the sauce.

¼ cup juice from a Seville orange (substitute 1 TBS lime juice and 3 TBS orange juice)

Use two large spatulas to carefully turn the fish over.

½ cup olive oil

Bake until tender, continuing to baste (about another 20 minutes).

1 cup thinly sliced white onions 3 cloves garlic, thinly sliced 5 cups diced tomatoes and their juices (halve and juice the tomatoes into a bowl before dicing the tomato meat) 2 Mexican bay leaves (regular will do) ¼ tsp dried Mexican oregano (regular will do) 12 – 15 pitted green olives, sliced into three pieces

Huatulco Salt Company handcrafted unrefined sea salt

3 TBS large capers 2 pickled jalapeños, cut in thin strips

Our collection of hand-harvested gourmet sea salts will take your dishes from good to mouth-watering.

To order: HuatulcoSaltCompany@gmail.com

BITE 37

Emergency Numbers Huatulco Fire Department 958 587 0047/ 958 587 0847 Municipal Police Santa MarĂ­a Huatulco 958 587 0675 State Police 958 583 4080 Traffic Police 958 587 0186 Port Captain 958 587 0726 Red Cross Huatulco 958 587 1188 IMSS 958 587 1182 Naval Hospital 958 587 0366 Immigration 958 581 9003

Puerto Escondido Fire Department (954 104-24-94

Oaxaca City Emergencies 066

State Police (954 582-34-39

Fire Department Central: 951 549 2197 South: 951 506 0248

Traffic Police 954 582 0080 Civil Protection 954 582 3538

Municipal Police Oaxaca De JuĂĄrez 060 951 514 4525

Port Captain 954 582 2290

Traffic Police 951 572 5800

Red Cross 954 582-05-50

Red Cross 065 516 4455 51 6 40 03

Canadian Citizens needing immediate assistance can call the Embassy at any time from: Mexico City: (55) 5724-7900 Elsewhere in Mexico: 01-800-706-2900.

U.S. Citizens needing immediate assistance can call the Embassy at any time from: Mexico City: (55) 5080-2000 Elsewhere in Mexico: 01-55-5080-2000

Chiles&Chocolate Cooking Classes Huatulco, Oaxaca

The best way to learn about a culture is through its food.

CLASS DESCRIPTIONS TUESDAY- By the Sea -Ceviche -Oven Roasted Shrimp Seasoned -Baja-style Fish Tacos -Shrimp Mousse -Michelada with Clamato WEDNESDAY- Mama’s Kitchen -Black Mole- This is the most exquisite and complicated Mexican salsa.

-Yellow Mole -served with Rice and Chicken -Mezcal Margarita THURSDAY-Fiesta- Perfect recipes for your next party!

-Poblano and Nopales Emapanadas - Jicama Salad -Beef Tamales in Corn Husk -Rum Horchata

Chiles&Chocolate Cooking Classes offer a delicious culinary and cultural experience that explore a variety of Southern Mexican cuisine. Our hands-on classes ensure you will leave prepared to recreate the dishes when you get home. · · · · · · · ·

Small Groups Hands-on Instruction in English Recipe Manual Free Gift Bag Lunch and Drinks Included All classes start at 9:30am Transportation Included

Cost: $85 USD per person Cooking Classes are 3-4 hours Zimatan, Huatulco

Tel. 958 105 1671

Cel. 958 100 7339

chiles.chocolate@yahoo.com www.huatulco-catering.com

FRIDAY- Street Food- A great intro to Mexican Food.

-Salsas -Handmade Tortillas -2 types of soft tacos fillings -Sopes -Tlayudas -Jamaica Margaritas