February 2017

The Eye Beach, Village + Urban Living in Oaxaca February, 2017 Issue 65 FREE

“The human heart has hidden treasures, In secret kept, in silence sealed; The thoughts, the hopes, the dreams, the pleasures, Whose charms were broken if revealed.”

Charlotte Brontë

Missy for charter. 44 ' motor yacht for fishing, bay tours, sightseeing.

Private Yacht for up to 15 persons, VIP service special occasions.

“I need to be alone. I need to ponder my shame and my despair in seclusion; I need the sunshine and the paving stones of the streets without companions, without conversation, face to face with myself, with only the music of my heart for company.” ― Henry Miller, Tropic of Cancer

I

am feeling very exhausted. Everywhere people are bubbling over with their opinions, demanding their right to be heard but it seems we are so busy talking that the entire planet has actually stopped listening.

All mouths are open and everyone I meet is ready to let me know where they stand on the state of world politics - by this I mean American politics - since WWII, America has prided itself on being the leader of the Free World and the consequence is that much of the world feels totally within its rights to weigh in. Add that to the fact that America has rarely hesitated to weigh in on the politics of other nations and we all carry our opinions about those actions - layers and layers of 'I thinks’ and ‘I believes'- each of us holding onto these values, believing that they have come to define us.

Strangely for me, an outspoken feminist, the day of The March did not incite in me the feeling of power it seemed to for the rest of my contemporaries. As I looked through my social media feed and saw photos of many people I respected taking to the streets, I felt sad rather than exhilarated. I felt even sadder when I read comments from those who were against the march. I asked myself… ‘Can I respect people whose opinions are so offensive to me and different from my own?’

Here's what I realized. The wall has already been built.

Without laying a single brick we have completely divided ourselves by allowing our beliefs to define and separate us.

None of the issues being presented at the moment are new; access to abortion, equal pay, sexual assault, immigration reform, gay rights, police brutality. These are not just issues concerning the USA - these are issues we need to be concerned about worldwide. Human rights are a problem worldwide. There are many people around the world who do not have the privilege and freedom to attend a march or have access to rant on social media. If you are even reading this, you are most likely a lot 'freer' than the rest of the world.

If we really don't want a wall, we need to stop talking. We need to stop shouting at people to love more. Shhhhhhh.

Enjoy the silence. Listen to your heart beating inside your body. Before your gender, your culture, the randomness of the country where you were born, the religious and political beliefs you were raised with- before all that, you were just a beating heart, in the bubble of quiet of your mother's womb.

It was safe. You were most definitely loved.

Can I respect people whose opinions are offensive to me and different from my own? If I really want to be a part of the change I want to see, then I am going to have to learn to.

Happy Valentine’s Day,

Jane

www.FortunaCharters.com

Info@fortunacharters.com Captain 958-130-8540 General info, whatsapp, message machine 958-130-3569 USA phone 541-678-5574

The Eye is a monthly all-English magazine that is distributed throughout the state of Oaxaca. It can be found for FREE at hotels, restaurants and community hot spots.

Should you wish to receive copies, advertise or submit some writing or photography please send us an email.

This magazine is made possible by the advertisers so please thank them when you use their services.

Editor: Jane Bauer Copy Editor: Deborah Van Hoewyk Web Goddess: Erin Vig Writers: Thomas Ahlbrandt, Jan Chaiken, Marcia Chaiken, Brooke Gazer, Leigh Morrow, Carole Reedy, Mary Spicka, Deborah Van Hoewyk, Kary Vannice Cover Photo: Yodiyim Photography/Art: Konrad Bak, Nikhol Esteras, Various Distribution: Renee Biernacki Advertising Assistant: Casilda Mendoza Lopez Layout: Jane Bauer Opinions and words are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of The Eye. We welcome submissions and input.

To get involved send us an email.

TheEyeHuatulco@gmail.com Visit Us Online www.TheEyeHuatulco.com

In This Issue Día de los Reyes Celebration

By Thomas Ahlbrandt Page 6 Favorite 2016 Books of Expats Living in Mexico

By Carole Reedy Page 8 Project TEN: An Israeli-Mexican Partnership in Oaxaca – Part 1

By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken Page 10 The Sadness of the Blue Heart of México

By Deborah Van Hoewyk Page 12 10 Things I Love about Huatulco

By Brooke Gazer Page 14 “Huatulco Being” Art Show

By Mary Spicka Page 15 The March

By Leigh Morrow Page 16 The Monarch Butterfly

By Kary Vannice Page 17

EDITORIAL PAGE 3 EVENTS CALENDAR PAGE 18 In Oaxaca City, The Eye is now available at Amate Books. www.TheEyeHuatulco.com

The Eye 4

Día de los Reyes Celebration

By Thomas Ahlbrandt

O

n Friday, January 6th owners of C o s m o Residences hosted a Día de los Reyes party for the Cosmo staff and their families.

This celebrates the traditional Mexican day when children receive gifts from the Three Wise Men (or Magi). The festivities were held on the beach at Cosmo and attended by Cosmo owners, the staff and 25 of their children ranging in age from babies to 12 years old. Actors portraying Superman and Elsa from Frozen presided over the event. Tacos, pizza and the traditional rosca de reyes (kings' cake) were served; a local disc jockey played popular tunes while the piñatas were smashed. The highlight of the afternoon, of course, was the gifts for all the children. The event was held to celebrate the children and give the owners the opportunity to express their appreciation for their excellent staff. Those who attended concluded it was great fun and it will become annual event.

Unlike Canada and the United States, where gifts are brought overnight by Santa Claus, Christmas Eve and Christmas Day in Mexico celebrate the birth of Jesus Christ. Día de los Reyes marks the end of the 12 days of Christmas and celebrates the Three Wise Men who traveled from afar bearing gifts for the baby Jesus. And the children of Mexico look forward to this day when Los Reyes leave gifts overnight near the shoes of children.

The day is also known as the Epiphany and dates to the 4th century. A feast was held on this day to celebrate Jesus' baptism and honor the Three Wise Men. Many believe the Star of Bethlehem appeared in the sky upon Jesus' birth. The Three Wise Men, Gaspar, Melchior and Balthasar, followed this star, which led them to the Christ child. They bore gifts of gold, frankincense, and myrrh for the newborn king.

Three Kings’ Day remains an important holiday in Mexico. In addition to the gift-giving aspect of the day, there is also a special treat specific to this holiday. In addition to the giftgiving aspect of the day, the rosca de reyes has great symbolism. The round shape signifies a king's crown and holds a special surprise. Baked inside the cake is a small plastic baby Jesus. Whoever finds the baby will host a tamale party for the Día de la Candelaria (Candlemas Day) which occurs each year on the 2nd of February.

Another tradition of the Three Kings’ Day holiday is the evening meal. Traditionally, on this day a special meal of corn tamales and hot chocolate is served. It makes for a perfect Mexican meal, one that is enjoyed by the entire family.

The Eye 6

Tel: 958 581 0025 www.ecoyspa.com

Discover Peace and Traquility

Favorite 2016 Books of Expats Living in Mexico

By Carole Reedy

I

n an attempt to add some spice to the Favorite Reads 2016 column, I decided to n a r r o w t h e selections to choices from expats living in Mexico.

These readers are from the US, Canada, South America, and Great Britain. To my delight they presented me with a wonderfully eclectic list to share with you. Their task was to select a favorite book they read in 2016 (not necessarily published then), relate what they liked about it and identify their own country of origin. The result is a basket of memorable books you may want to add to your 2017 list. ++Originally from Calgary, Alberta, Canada, Brooke Gazer and her husband packed their bags looking for a new home in Mexico. They ended up building and now operating Agua Azul B&B in Huatulco, Oaxaca. Brooke says: “The two books I liked best this year could not be more dissimilar. The first, Shantaram by Gregory David Roberts, is set in Bombay and based on his own life. Roberts escaped from an Australian prison and fled to India, where he interacts with a diverse range of people—from the ultra-wealthy to the devastatingly poor.

Brooke questions whether Roberts is a villain or a victim, or possibly both. On the other end of the spectrum for her is The Rosie Project by Graeme Simsion, a heartwarming story of a man with a mild case of Asperger's syndrome who is desperate to find a wife. “I loved this story because of the charming quirky characters and the hilarious situations they get themselves into. It made me laugh aloud.”

++Susan Keyes Hernandez came to Mexico 46 years ago from Washington State and since then has been introduced to many Latin American authors; one Cuban author in particular left a lasting impression on her this year: Leonardo Padura, whose novel The Man Who Loved Dogs includes many historical events leading up to Trotsky's death in Mexico. For pure enjoyment, Susan liked Nutshell by Ian McEwan, which she calls a “welcome break in an otherwise serious year. The story is narrated by an unborn fetus, and was true to form with his typical wit and humor.” ++Nancy Gurrola, originally from the US, has been settled in Mexico for 55 years. For 50 of those years she taught at the University of the Americas and the University of Iberoamericana. It gives me great pleasure to report that her favorite books of 2016 were written by one of my favorite authors, the world-famous madrileño Javier Marías. Of Marías she says, “He is so full of astute observations on human behavior, such well-developed and interesting characters, and plots that don't let you put down the book!” Among Marías' finest are The Infatuations, Thus Bad Begins (the latest just published in English), Tomorrow in the Battle Think on Me, and A Heart So White. ++Born in Valparaiso, Chile, Sonia Rabow lived in London, Lima, New York, Boston, and Madrid before settling in Mexico City. Her favorite book was recommended by her book club buddies: A Spy Among Friends, by Ben Macintyre.

“Interesting, as I had heard about Kim Philby and could relate to the period of the story. Incredible that this could take place over such a long time, that he wasn't caught, and that he fooled everyone, even his family.”

++Betty Bertele came to San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato, from San Francisco 22 years ago. Her favorite book was The Japanese Lover by Isabel Allende. “It is a magical love story and multigenerational epic that stretches from San Francisco in the present day to Poland and the US during World War II. Brilliant writing on old age and dignity.”

++Julia Musi, who hails from England, has lived in California and has graced Mexico City for the past 48 years. Her favorite book of 2016 was The Invention of Nature: Alexander von Humboldt's New World by Andrea Wulf. “I was so impressed to read about an explorer who changed the way we see the world and influenced people like Darwin, Jefferson, and Thoreau.”

++Marcia Chaiken wasn't sure she was suitable for inclusion as technically she isn't an expat; but she spends many months in Mexico each year and for that I think she qualifies. Her choice is Into the Beautiful North by Luis Alberto Urrea, which she describes as “Screamingly funny, yet portraying the harsh realities of life on both sides of the border through the eyes of three teenage chicas and their gay companion. I didn't want the book to end, and yet the end was so satisfying.”

++Coincidentally, Jenny Burton Ruiz, who, like Julia, began her life in England and has lived in Mexico City for the last 48 years, also chose the book about Alexander von Humboldt as her favorite. Jenny says “I knew next to nothing about Von Humboldt, but realized that he must be a VIP as the German schools here in Mexico City are named after him. What a fascinating read. He was really the first ecologist and managed to publish 36 books during his lifetime. Through his minute observation of the world around him, and after collecting thousands of specimens in Europe and South America, he was able to conclude that, depending on altitude and latitude, he knew which plants would be growing there. Sadly, despite his connections, his desire of exploring India was thwarted by the British, who did not like his negative comments about colonialism and slavery. Congratulations to Andrea Wulf for her ability to handle so much information while creating such a readable book.”

++Ajijic (Jalisco) resident Harper Jones also chose Urrea's novel as her favorite, saying “This is my second read of this book. It is that good. I have enjoyed all of Urreas' books, starting with The Hummingbird's Daughter. The characters are beautifully developed and it's funny and painful with witty dialogue and descriptions.” Harper lived ten years part-time in Oaxaca and now is a full-time resident, having spent seven years in San Miguel de Allende and the past two in Ajijic.

The Eye 8

++Transplanted from bonny old Scotland to Mexico City 45 years ago, fellow flaneurer and avid reader Barbara Lambie Robledo chooses as her favorite book “one that absorbed me with its long complicated world, A Fine Balance by Rohinton Mistry. As someone who has lived more years outside my country of birth than inside, and with the nostalgia and critical eye that the objectivity of distance offers, I feel a certain identity with an Indian writer, now living in Canada, who brings alive a long, sometimes terrible, and moving story about four disparate characters who form a quasifamilial bond. For me, always, the beauty of a novel lies in how completely one is absorbed into and by its reality. A Fine Balance pulls one into the sights, sounds, flavours, daily tasks, and horrors and then, sometimes, the gentle side of life in India at that time (from Indian Independence up to the Emergency of Indira Ghandi). ++New San Miguel de Allende resident Mary Abernathy, formerly a resident of Denver, Colorado, appropriately chose Mexico, Sunlight and Shadows: Short Stories and Essays

by Mexican writers. Mary tells us that “Being a newly transplanted expat, I enjoyed each of the 15 contributors' writings, centered on their experiences and observations in different areas of Mexico. All are notable writers and have presented a rich collection of stories that depict the spirit of Mexico.”

++Another book about Mexico was chosen by Kevin Kelley, seven-year Oaxaca resident from Chicago who manages the very popular Zipolite bar El Colibrí with his gracious Mexican wife, Gilda. Kevin read (or rather reread) La Lacuna by Barbara Kingsolver. “A bit of history, well written and very funny.” El Colibrí offers travelers not only spirits, but also music, games, sports TV, and books to buy. Both owners can give you advice about the Oaxaca Coast. ++Yet another Oaxaca resident, this one from the city, Jeannie Kes chose noted playwright Wendy Wasserman's novel Elements of Style, the story of a small group of people from New York's Upper East side. Jeannie tells us that “at first I thought that this depiction of uber-rich spoilt people would be of little interest. However, each chapter took me into a deeper understanding of the very human struggles of the city. With her ironic wit, Wasserman pierces that society and shows its underbelly.” The book was written in 2006, the year of Wasserman's untimely death. ++As most of you know from my top-ten reads published last month, my favorite book of the year was Dave Eggers' novel You Shall Know Our Velocity! As regular Eggers readers understand, he is always innovative, intelligent, introspective, and just plain unstoppable. He takes you with him wherever he goes. But the most striking feature of his writing is his ability to inject humor into even the darkest hours. I also read Zeitoun, his account of a family and their survival during Hurricane Katrina. It was unputdownable (I know that isn't a word, but there's no better one!), as are all his books.

There may or may not be a pattern to the reading habits of expats in Mexico, but there's certainly a hint of adventure in all the choices and a curiosity about unknown worlds and eras.

This seems to be the case for the many thousands of immigrants who choose to call Mexico “home.”

Project TEN: An Israeli-Mexican Partnership in Oaxaca – Part 1

By Marcia Chaiken and Jan Chaiken

O

ur visit to Project TEN, high in the hills of Pluma Hidalgo, a bit over an hour's drive from Huatulco, was one of the most memorable of our many experiences in Mexico.

We arrived as outsiders and within a few hours were made to feel at home and welcome to ask as many questions and observe as many activities as we needed to understand the goals, objectives, and processes of the TEN project.

Since the TEN volunteers are almost always on the move or participating in meaningful discussions when not on the go, we were totally immersed in TEN life both in the villages they visit five or more days a week and at the isolated, jungle-surrounded TEN Center.

The adventure began when The Eye editor, Jane Bauer, asked us, “Would you like to write an article about TEN - an Israeli project in Pluma?” Our amazed response was, “Israelis in Pluma? Who are they and what are they doing?” Jane replied, “I just know they're working in the communities up there, and I think it's exciting. The rest is for you to find out!” We were intrigued in part because we had frequently driven through the isolated high hills of Pluma Hidalgo as a shortcut between Huatulco and the city of Oaxaca, and in part because we like to write about Judaism in Mexico. We already had a subtle hint, since “TEN” is a Hebrew word meaning “give.”

TEN was launched by The Jewish Agency for Israel, an organization based in Jerusalem that has a long history of outreach to Jewish non-Israelis with the goal of bringing Jews to live in Israel or at least visit. We were curious why TEN was sending young volunteers to Mexico and four other countries: Ethiopia, Uganda, South Africa and Ghana. We contacted the Jerusalem office for permission to visit the Oaxaca Center and spoke with Daniel Aschheim, Director of Marketing and Public Relations.

Daniel made it clear that, far from being a departure from the mission of The Jewish Agency for Israel, the goal of TEN is integral to that mission: strengthening Jewish identity and values among young Jewish adults. More specifically, TEN involves Jewish volunteers ages 19 through 35 from Israel and around the world in actively working for a core Jewish value – tikkun olam – loosely translated as “repairing the world.” The volunteers commit three or four months to the program, while others at the Center are permanent staff, leaders who remain in Oaxaca for a year or more. Occasional pre-arranged groups of college-age students from the US or elsewhere arrive at the centers and work for only a week or two. TEN centers are all located in areas where people are living in economic poverty and are receiving scant essential services (including one site in Israel).

The Eye 10

Rather than TEN staff defining what problems communities are facing and telling the communities what TEN is going to do to help them (a traditional approach of do-gooders but antithetical to true tikkun olam), members of communities where TEN operates identify and prioritize the barriers to improving their own lives and developing the innate potential of children and youth. Professionals in the fields of medicine, health, education and agriculture work with community members to select activities that potentially can break down those barriers and improve lives. In accordance with the Hebrew word “TEN,” the project experience is meant to teach the volunteers the means and joys of reaching out to people with very different cultural backgrounds, coming to understand how to give assistance that communities want and value, and, in turn, how to receive the gift from community members of learning about their language and ways of life as well as acceptance, cooperation, and partnership.

We questioned how TEN centers are selected, given there are so many places in the world where people are living in poverty.

First, since it is important to keep Project staff and volunteers safe, TEN operates only in countries with Israeli embassies that can advise and respond to security needs. Second, TEN partners with established Jewish organizations in Mexico that are already actively providing funding and other assistance to communities with critical needs. For example, for over ten years, the organization Cadena, based in Mexico City, has been responding to communities hit by earthquakes, floods, and other natural disasters. Cadena, now partnered with TEN, had provided relief to communities in Pluma Hidalgo after hurricane Carlotta ravished the area in 2012. The community network established by Cadena enabled TEN to identify Pluma as a prime site.

Some of the same factors that led to the choice of Pluma as a TEN site made it difficult for us to coordinate with Sivan, the Director of the Center. The Center is located high on a hill covered by coffee plantations and jungle and is reached by a nearly unnavigable road. Phone service is nonexistent and internet service is spotty at best.

We left early for our drive to Pluma, followed directions to the local school where we would meet someone from TEN who would take us to the center. As we waited, mothers appeared at picnic tables carrying tortillas and horchata (a rice-cinnamon drink) for their children to have during recess. When we told the mothers that we were expecting people from TEN, they enthusiastically told us that their children were learning English from the Project people.

We asked how much English the children had learned, and after some consideration they agreed, “Bastante” (a lot). The commitment to self-development through learning English appeared to us to be very strong among the community's students and parents.

When Project TEN arrived in Oaxaca, they did not have a predetermined notion that their education program would entail teaching English, but they learned this was the community's desire.

The children from the school appeared to be very excited when the white truck filled with the Center Director, Education Coordinator and 8 volunteers pulled up at the base of the driveway. The teachers and TEN volunteers quickly organized the children into groups according to age and English proficiency level. One table, in a hidden area outside the school building, was exclusively reserved for one TEN member and a special-needs child. A small group of relatively advanced students discussed photos showing people demonstrating various emotions, “just in English in complete sentences, please.” Since most of the volunteers are not native English speakers, and only a few are native Spanish speakers, the lessons can best be described as a shared learning experience between the teachers and students, with the students being the Spanish experts. The parents who were present also appeared to follow closely what was happening. Among the emotions shown in the handout photos were “angry” and “frightened.” When the students provided English sentences or pantomimes saying what made them angry or frightened, the volunteers were clearly learning about this community so remote from their home towns.

The class with the youngest children at first glance appeared to be utter chaos with music blaring, the kids racing around and the volunteers ensuring nobody was standing still. But when the music stopped, each child raced to a picture of a fruit or vegetable on the floor. They then took turns saying the English name of the pictured item and the color. Each mistake was greeted with a hint and each success was roundly applauded by all. Then the music started again. – An hour flew by with enthusiastic participation of all.

As the lessons came to an end, we realized we had witnessed an example of the globalization of English. These students had picked up English expressions that might be heard in London or elsewhere, and their accents had slight overtones of France or the Middle East.

We followed the TEN truck to another school in another village.

They were there for two purposes: A book fair and a computer check-up. Jewish organizations in Mexico City ship down cartons of books to sell for 10 pesos (about 50 cents US) to children in over 30 villages all over the Pluma area. TEN decided to sell the books rather than give them away in order to promote understanding of the value of books; the money collected is used to buy more books. Initially, most of the books sent from Mexico and purchased by the Project were storybooks or entertaining reading. Based on the selections made by the students, the TEN staff realized that many children preferred science books and other informational volumes. One of the Jewish day schools in Mexico City is helping to meet this need, and the income from sales is also directed toward replacing the nonfiction volumes that the children like to buy.

TEN volunteers organized the books on a blanket by age appropriateness and also set up word games before the children arrived. The children came racing out, some immediately diving into the books on the blanket. One little girl completely read three thin books by herself before she selected one to buy. Several boys excitedly explored informational books together for about twenty minutes before making individual selections. Other children were totally engaged in the volunteer-led word games and only turned their attention to the book sale after the games were ended.

Jewish organizations in Mexico City also collect and repair computers that are provided to TEN for distribution in the schools. Recognizing that a computer is useless without support, TEN provides software, lessons in computer use and periodic check-ups to make sure the hardware and software are functioning as designed. The computers in the classroom passed the technical checkup while the children were engaged in the book fair.

We were sorry we couldn't clone ourselves to be with the public health/medical team that had simultaneously travelled to other outlining villages with their portable clinic. The coordinators, who are recent medical school graduates from Mexico City completing their required year of national service before final certification, are involving the volunteers in two forms of tikkun olam: community-based preventive medicine and individual medical consultation and treatment. The latter also costs 10 pesos and includes an examination, necessary medical tests, and medications.

The coordinators and volunteers know about lab tests and medications that are available year-round for free in Oaxaca, but local residents may not be aware of them. During our visit, the public health team was focusing on a campaign to prevent diabetes, which has become the primary cause of death among adults in Mexico. The team provides information about habits that cause the disease, such as drinking the ubiquitous sodas and other beverages with high sugar content. Realizing that poor water quality is one of the reasons these beverages become the staple drink, TEN has provided many villages with small water filters that are easy to connect to water sources and can be used to continuously filter enough water for a whole small village. Judging from our own health after drinking nothing but the same water during our Pluma stay, the filters appear to be effective.

An important corollary to the public heath campaigns for disease prevention and health promotion is the experimental farm located at the TEN center. Part 2 of this article, which will appear in the March issue of The Eye, will describe the farm and other activities at the Center.

In this era of global strife and international terror, it was encouraging to see the Project TEN leaders and volunteers, the participating community members, and their partner organizations giving hope that the world can be a gentler, happier and more productive place.

Contributions to Project TEN can be made at

https://goo.gl/JoeEiS Donations from Mexico will be directed to the Oaxaca Center.

The Eye 11

The Sadness of the Blue Heart of México

By Deborah Van Hoewyk

I

n 2009, México was the first Latin American country to sign up for the United Nations' “Blue Heart Campaign” (Campaña Corazón Azul) against human trafficking.

You've probably never heard of it, and no doubt most Mexicans immediately forgot about it, because it had to be “resuscitated” in 2015.

In 2009, Mexico's participation in Corazón Azul was officially launched by President Felipe Calderón. “It is imperative,” he said, “to raise social awareness, to act with determination, to stop the inhuman practices that turn people into merchandise.

Human beings are not, cannot be, for sale.”

In the next year or so, official adoption activities occurred in Puebla, Sinaloa, Quintana Roo, Querétaro, and Baja California. Academic forums were held in Mexico City, Mérida, and Monterrey. At the federal level, Mexico issued a postage stamp and put up a website

The State Department defines México as a “source, transit, and destination country for men, women, and children" who are trafficked for sex and forced labor.

Most often victimized are women, children, indigenous people, persons with mental and physical disabilities, migrants from farther south in Latin America, and LGBTI individuals. Child sex tourism is a problem, especially along the U.S./México border.

There is little evidence on just how much trafficking is going on, although one estimate for people trafficked into the United States from México is 50,000 a year. Excelsior, a major Mexican newspaper, estimates 70,000 people a year fall victim to trafficking inside México.

Within Mexico, 1,814 victims—about 2.5% of the estimated total—were identified in 2015: 43% were prostituted, 26% were enslaved, 21% were forced to beg, 1% were forced to commit crimes, and 9% were unspecified.

Issues that make it difficult to eliminate human trafficking are varied. Although México revamped its federal trafficking law in 2014, there is inconsistent enforcement at the state and local level; even within the law, the definition of what constitutes human trafficking is fuzzy. Along with the law, the federal government produced an action plan for 2014-18, but appropriated no funding to support it.

More interestingly, the Secretariat of Health commissioned and distributed a set of four comic books that explored why and how people get seduced into being trafficked, pulled few punches about what happens to trafficking victims, and showed how people can escape. “Brutal ataque” (Brutal Attack) shows how economic stress leads to illegal migration to the U.S., ending up in forced slave labor. In “Sueños rotos” (Broken Dreams), two teenage girls are attracted to dashing suitors, then seduced, then forced, eventually with drugs, to become strippers and then prostitutes. “Ní un golpe más” (Not One More Blow) shows the course of domestic violence through dating, marriage, and slavery in the house of the wife's motherin-law. “El trabajo de mi vida” (The Work of My Life), another tale of seduction into prostitution. Not all the characters live to tell their tales.

But stamps and web sites and comic books and conferences don't seem to have done much to help the situation. The U.S. State Department analyzes human trafficking on a yearly basis. México is a “Tier 2” country, which means that Mexican laws don't meet the standards of the U.S. Trafficking Victims Protection Act, but the country is making efforts to do so. (The TVPA is intended to protect victims in the United States, prevent U.S. citizens from participating on the receiving end of international human trafficking, and address the problem with international cooperation.)

The Eye 12

So far, fewer than half the Mexican states have aligned their laws with the new federal law, so local processes for charging and convicting traffickers are not standardized. There is little or no protection for victims who testify against traffickers. The State Department's assessment notes a conviction rate for trafficking prosecution cases of about 2%, the same as the conviction rate for all offenses in México.

The two most significant barriers to eliminating human trafficking, however, are rampant complicity on the part of the authorities at all levels, and a shift from small family “crime clans” to major drug cartels as the big players.

In 2014, the UN staged the first ever World Day against Human Trafficking (July 30), and then in August sponsored a 10episode marathon of Law and Order: Special Victims Unit; the series Graceland also ran a short story arc on trafficking that featured the Blue Heart Campaign. Building on the 2014 passage of the federal anti-trafficking law, México relaunched the Campaña Corazón Azul in March 2015. There are positive signs beyond the new federal law; cross-border cooperation on trafficking that ends in the U.S. has strengthened, and the Mexican government has greatly increased funding for victim assistance. On the other hand, the power of positive public awareness needs a serious boost if it's going to keep the Blue Heart from landing in intensive care again.

Botanical Park 6 hour Botanical Garden Tour; 60 varieties of exotic flowers and tropical fruits from Asia to Central America, swim in the Magdalena River.

Includes: Transportation, guide, breakfast and lunch with home grown organic juices and fruits.

Call to reserve today!

Office in Santa Cruz Tel: 958 587 0871

www.hagiasofia.mx

RESTAURANT-GRILL

THE PLACE TO BE French & International Cuisine RESERVATIONS 587 1157 Closed Sunday Located in front of the Binniguenda Hotel Santa Cruz, Huatulco

10 Things I Love About Huatulco

By Brooke Gazer

A

lot of people who have bought property in Huatulco simply came on vacation and fell in love with the place… and for good reason.

My husband and I actually scoured the Pacific Coast for several months in search of the perfect tropical location.

Like Goldilocks, we hadn't found the one that was “just right”, until we arrived in Huatulco. Driving into Huatulco, Rick breathed in deeply and said, “This place feels good!” Three days later we decided this would be our new home. Having seen the entire Pacific Coast of Mexico, I firmly believe that Huatulco is the best place! Since we arrived seventeen years ago, Huatulco has grown, but it still has the essential charm we felt then. In fact, as it developed, it has gotten even better, with more facilities available. Here are ten things I love about this place.

1. The beaches: There are 9 bays with 36 beaches, some of which can only be reached by boat; many are still virgin.

Unlike the northern part of Mexico's Pacific coast, our sea is warm enough to swim all year round; since snowbirds come in the winter, this is a big plus! Some of our beaches are so calm they feel like big swimming pools, others are good for body surfing, and within a 30-minute drive you can find some spectacular surfing beaches.

6. The National Park: Huatulco is Mexico's premier eco-resort and the National Park is a big factor in this status. This zone is comprised of 6,375 hectares of forest, and 5,516 hectares of sea. (One hectare is equivalent to 2.5 acres.) The bays of San Agustín, Chachacual, Cacaluta, Maguey, and Organo are all part of the National Aquatic Park. The forest is not only an essential factor in bird migration, it hosts some 400 species of butterflies. In addition to insects and reptiles, the park is home to 130 species of mammals, including puma, ocelot, jaguarundi, deer, wild boar, fresh water otters, ocelot, marta, and anteaters. It is especially important that Huatulco maintain this rich forest reserve as more development encroaches on the natural habitat of these creatures.

7. The Copalita Eco-Archaeological Park: Ancient ruins are prolific everywhere in Mexico, including along the Pacific Coast, but Huatulco is the only site on this coast where they have been unearthed. This archeological zone, which dates back over 2000 years, is small compared to some of the major sites across Mexico, but it is significant since it is among the oldest. Much of the ancient forest has been left inside the park so that, unlike many sites that are entirely exposed to the hot sun, this is a very pleasant place to walk. With three separate eco-zones, it is also a great place for bird watching.

2. The predictable weather: From November to mid-May we can almost guarantee there will be no rain. If there is, it will only be a light sun shower. From May to October we get between 35-40 days with rain and most of that falls in the wee hours while we are sleeping. This makes Huatulco a perfect year-round resort. It is too bad a lot of people do not see how absolutely gorgeous Huatulco can be in the summer months when everything is green and lush.

8. The Airport: Flying into Huatulco, you immediately feel that you have landed somewhere special. The place is dominated by several steep palapa roofs that simply scream “Tropical Vacation!” The recent expansion to the airport, which can now accommodate up to 20 planes per hour, is beginning to attract additional flights from multiple locations. This helps to make Huatulco easier to reach.

3. It is so neat and clean: All the streets are paved and the major ones are lined with grass and palm trees with the curbs painted white. The maintenance department of FONATUR, the tourist authority, has over 600 employees to pick up trash, keep debris off the streets, maintain the gardens, street lights and water, and generally keep the town looking great!

9. The People: In our travels, we have found most people in Mexico are friendly but this is especially true in Huatulco. It has a “small town” atmosphere, people are cordial and greet you passing by on the street whether they know you or not. I've experienced numerous acts of kindness from strangers and, as a foreigner, I have never been made to feel unwelcome. Vendors may be hungry, but they rarely harass tourist when a simple “No, gracias” is uttered.

4. Our Unique Sewage Treatment: No sewage, treated or otherwise, goes onto the sea from Huatulco. This is what keeps our beaches so pristine; diversion of gray water to irrigation is also a good use of resources. Although Mexico treats and recycles water in a few other places, this system is rare; many cities on either coast of Mexico pump raw sewage directly into the ocean. (Although the U.S. requires secondary treatment before sewage is discharged to any waterway, Canada does not, dumping 150 billion liters (nearly 40 billion gallons) of un- and under-treated sewage a year.) The water treatment system is one of the things that contributed to Huatulco receiving the coveted Earth Check Platinum Certification.

5. The Birds: Huatulco is not only a popular resort for humans escaping the frigid northern winters, eighty percent of all the birds in Mexico pass through our resort. Just like human visitors, those feathered friends who are not permanent residents enjoy an extended time here. They are resting and fueling up for their long migration to and from South America.

With over 280 different species of birds, Huatulco is a bird watcher's paradise.

The Eye 14

10. The Eye: A small group of people believed it would be nice for residents and visitors to have something available in English. This publication began in a black-and-white newsprint tabloid format in 2011. Gradually, the quality of the format has improved to become a full-color magazine. The Eye is available online, readers can search back issues for past articles, thanks to our “Web Goddess”. The writing, layout, editing, publishing, distribution and internet maintenance is all accomplished on a volunteer basis. The printing and web presence is paid for by our advertisers. In a town as small as Huatulco I think it is amazing that a magazine of this consistent quality is available and it is a testament in itself as to what a great community we live in.

Brooke Gazer operates Agua Azul la Villa, an ocean view B&B in Huatulco. www.bbaguaazul.com

“Huatulco Being” Art Show

By Mary Spicka

Friday, February 3rd, 2017 5:00pm - 9:00pm Open Gala Reception, with Wine and Tapas at Mansiones Cruz del Mar, Punta Santa Cruz .

Saturday February 4th, 2017 10:00am - 3:00pm Open exhibition

T

he exhibition will feature the work of twelve artists from the Huatulco community, elsewhere in Mexico, the U.S. and Canada. Guests will be able to experience a wide variety of artistic expressions with over 75 pieces of art for sale, including silk painting, bronze sculpture, acrylic and oils on canvas, mixed media and photography, all while meeting the artists, enjoying wine and tapas, visiting with friends in the comfort and elegance of Mansiones with its hilltop views. This year's exhibition will include a raffle of unique works of art created by each of the twelve artists. The proceeds from the raffle will fund next year's exhibition, and help foster the growing art community of Huatulco.

Jim Spicka started the first “Huatulco Being” art exhibition in 2012. He was the solo artist, and because of the warmth and support of the community, his vision to grow the event has become a reality.

The Artists Abdías García studied at the School of Fine Arts at Benito Juárez Autonomous University of Oaxaca. Specializing in painting, he has participated in numerous local and statewide exhibitions. He now teaches drawing and painting at the Casa de Cultura; his works are influenced by music and fantasy. Ángel S. is a graffiti artist whose local works include the whimsical graffiti benches at the new Rotary-sponsored Park Library in Sector U2.

Ann McLeod maintains an art studio in the mountainous jungle near Huatulco. She taught herself to paint in her early twenties and has been a successful artist for nearly half a century. She said, “If I can inspire others to feel a sense of wonder and responsibility toward our shared beautiful earth, then I will feel successful as an artist.”

Beatriz Madrazo has participated in over 15 solo and group exhibitions throughout Mexico. She paints in oil, acrylic, and mixed media, exploring color and using motifs of the human figure and nature; her work ranges from portraits to abstraction. “Art is a way to shape an internal feeling making each work the reflection of oneself, of the soul, and of our memories,” stated Beatriz.

Don Robertson's works on canvas and paper have been inspired by the magnificent views that he enjoys from his home in Huatulco. “Huatulco has become my creative space where I have the inspiration and the time to interpret my surroundings onto paper or canvas or sculptural media,” stated Don. Jim Spicka is a multi-faceted artist whose work this year focuses on large acrylic-on-canvas pieces of bold, colorful images and local scenes. Spicka stated, “My art is intended to move people, bring joy, energy and life to its environment. For me, art is a strong, creative outlet that allows escape from the ordinary, day-to-day world, and to live outside of myself.”

Kevin Spreitz is a Canadian fine art and documentary photographer who now lives in Bahías de Huatulco yearround. He has exhibited in several countries, and has been featured in The Globe and Mail, BWGallerist, and Nik Radio.

M.J. Kelly retired from Canada to discover that “Living here is breathing in color!” Her large paintings explode with those colors, creating a resonant interaction with the viewer “usually too deep and powerful for words.”

Rafael Ortega has participated in over thirty solo and group exhibitions in Mexico, Canada and Europe. He founded and directed the Casa de Cultura in Bahias de Huatulco. He uses his paintings to express his concerns with change, instability and indefinite potential.

Richard Saunders' work as a sculptor has taken curious paths: “Like all such paths, they led back to where I began—back to myself—always returning me to my primary fascination, which is with line and form, and with that elusive quality that makes things beautiful.”

Susana Rubin is the founder of Galería Rubin in Santa Cruz, home also to Fundación Pintando Esperanza (Painting Hope).

The Foundation's mission is to build classrooms for Mexican children, with Susana's school-building project at the primary school Josefa Ortíz de Domínguez in Arroyo González is their first. Susana's artistic talents have led her to using projectbased art education to build self-sustainability for both school and community.

Victoria Wuotto is a silk painting artist whose works include framed art and silk fabric for garments. Victoria conducts classes and workshops in the art of silk painting.

The Eye 15

The March

By Leigh Morrow

I

t started with five words Teresa typed on her Facebook Page. "I think we should March", posted the midlife woman from Hawaii, before going to bed.

Spawned by dismay and shock on the night of the US election, that rise to protest today became a full-blown world movement.

Hundreds of thousands, of very ordinary women, of all ages and colors, and from all walks of life, congregated today for the Women's March on Washington, protesting the inauguration of Donald Trump. Some men joined in with their daughters in strollers or baby carriers, but the mood was definitely feminist and female.

"We march for our daughters, granddaughters, our sisters and all people who want a fair, just and inclusive world", said a woman who had woken in the early morning darkness to ride a bus for six hours to get to Washington.

With 657 sister marches in the States, and hundreds more around the world, in places like Vancouver, where I live, to Mexico City and Yangon, Myanmar, over a million people around the globe showed their concern about the new U.S. president and his policies. Today, indeed, was a day for the history books.

"This is the upside to a downside situation", said Hollywood actress Diane Keaton, addressing the Washington throng that was so big at the start of the March, organizers had trouble physically funneling that many bodies down the city streets. As the day wore on, the crowd in a sea of pink-hatted-protestors, chanted and waved creative signs like a picture of the Statue of Liberty with a ripped crotch, or "A woman's place is in the house, The White House", or "Big ovaries trump small hands" What began as an anti-Trump protest really broadened to include preservation of reproductive rights, freedom of race and religion, inclusion of minority/LGBTI groups, and protection of immigrants who face new persecution in America.

In whirling snow in Wisconsin or under waving palms in Mexico City, women spoke in solidarity for inclusion, saying this is what democracy looks like. United, they stand for a world that respects all people.

Staying home wasn't an option, and in Canada, where I live, thousands of women could be silent no longer. The greatest feeling, personally, was knowing there are so many other women who have been feeling as concerned as I have, as I listen, quite terrified, to the new tone of white male power that Trump is tweeting. From foreign policies to environmental concerns, the list grows long, with women's rights tugging the hardest at my heart.

The Eye 16

I know full well the struggle my mother had: never paid an equal wage for equal work, or having to quit her job, when her belly betrayed her, with my growing size.

My generation reaped the benefits of the feminist movement that was burning bras while I was playing with my anatomically incorrect Barbie doll. Yet I also know firsthand, how fragile these hardwon rights, are. How ceilings are still made of glass and how ageism (I'm now in my 60's) is the next frontier for women to truly be considered equal.

What we won can easily be trampled, even erased. My daughter, who is just becoming a young women herself, woke me this morning from her college, far from home and three hours ahead, to excitedly send me a video of the early crowds of women congregating in Washington.

This evening, she texted "I feel energized. Millennials,” she explains, “are thrilled to finally have a chance to act like our older sisters of past generations. In our world of non-tangible acts [which she explains is social media], it made a huge impact seeing thousands of women in the street, marching".

The physical act of marching in solidarity is unifying, in this world of disassociation from each other. I get that. She also was raised to believe in all earnest that her body is her body and only her body. "The thought that someone else (let alone a white man in a position of power) could do otherwise is very frightening", she wrote.

Millennials also like what they term the "intersectionality" of this growing movement. White women holding signs for Black Lives. Gay rainbows in one corner of a sign, “No human being is illegal” underneath. They are taking up each other's cause, and becoming much more than a suffragette redo in the process.

We will need a unity of epic proportions, if we are to put this Genie back into his bottle.

Leigh Morrow is a Vancouver writer who operates a vacation rental on the ocean side in San Agustinillo, Oaxaca. You can view and book her home at www.gosanagustinillo.com

Nail Salon Hands & Feet

The Monarch Butterfly

By Kary Vannice

C

haos Theory states that something as small as the flutter of a butterfly's wings can cause a hurricane on the other side of the world. Could that really be possible? Can something so seemingly insignificant, the flap of a butterfly's wing, actually create devastation and destruction on a massive scale? Perhaps a better question would be what effect would the absence of butterfly wings have on our environment?

But the bigger problem lies in the north.

Normally, in the summer months, monarchs would stretch out over vast areas where the plant milkweed is abundant. The eastern monarch butterflies rely on a very specific species of milkweed in order to lay their eggs. This is the only plant that monarch butterflies will lay their eggs on and it is the only source of food for the monarch caterpillar. Thus, they are wholly dependent on an abundance of milkweed in the north to support the continuation of the species.

In medicine, doctors use the beat of a heart as an indicator of a body's overall well-being.

When it comes to the environment, there is no “pulse” to tell the state an ecosystem. Scientists use what are known as “indicator species” to determine how healthy different ecosystems are, and the health of our planet in general.

The problem is, modern agricultural practices are killing the milkweed. The conversion of grasslands and open space to large scale monocropping operations that use of pesticides and herbicides is having a devastating effect on milkweed. Milkweed is considered, well, a weed. It has no known benefit to humans, so it is wiped out and replaced with crops.

Indicator species are highly sensitive, living organisms that quickly respond to changes in their environment. Indicator species act like the proverbial “canary in the coal mine.”

One important indicator species that is rapidly in decline is the eastern monarch butterfly. Different subspecies of monarch butterflies can be found in different regions of the world, but for most of us, the most well-known are found in North America and follow a migration pattern primarily from the northern east coast of the United States down to Mexico. Like many humans, they migrate to live in perpetual summer-like temperatures.

This allows each generation to complete its lifecycle in the most favorable environmental conditions.

It takes five generations of butterflies to complete the 3,000mile migration each year. Environmental conditions have to be just right along the entire migration corridor in order to support the succeeding generation so it can continue the journey.

When experts talk about the state of the eastern monarch butterfly, they use words like “disappearing,” “precipitous decline,” “plummeting populations,” and “doomed”.

According to a study published in the journal Scientific Reports, “The eastern monarch butterfly population in North America plunged by 84 percent between the winter of 1996-97 and the winter of 2014-15.”

NationalGeographic.com notes that “between and 2013, there was a 43.7 percent decrease in the area occupied by the butterflies in their winter sanctuaries.” Therein lies the problem, the decline of the necessary food and “shelter” these insects need in order to reproduce and thrive.

In the winter months, the butterflies settle in a very small area (only about 15 acres) in the high mountainous region of Mexico, an area that is getting increasingly smaller due to deforestation and severe weather conditions in recent years.

The irony is butterflies are pollinators and are needed to pollinate some of the very crops that are planted in the areas where milkweed once grew.

But declining milkweed populations aren't the only factor contributing to the demise of the monarch butterfly. Climate change also plays a role. This last March, a freak and severe winter storm in the mountains of central Mexico killed an estimated 6.2 million butterflies and destroyed some of their precious southern habitat.

Climate change has also shifted the growing seasons of some of the plants that the monarchs rely on in their migration corridor, which may be contributing to the decline as well.

Different studies report varying numbers of decline in the eastern monarch butterfly, but the fact is, they are in decline.

This indicates there is something radically out of balance in the ecosystems the monarch migrates through, and it could soon be affecting the human population as well.

So what can be done? If you want to do your part to help bring back the monarch butterfly, you can plant milkweed in your home garden and create a safe haven for monarch butterflies to lay their eggs and grow to develop the small, quiet wings that might just create a little chaos in our cosmos.

“INDIGENOUS COOP-STORE ARTE POPULAR ZAPOTECA”

Ocean Park Condominiums, Local #8 Santa Cruz Huatulco

The best collection of Mexican rugs,wall-hangings clothing, woven bags, table runnersand placemats in Huatulco,is found at this family shop run by FREDDY BAUTISTA. While Freddy weaves rugs on site, much of the work is done by his family.

fredybv@outlook.es Cel: 951 122 0283 The Eye 17

Calendar February 2nd Dia de la Candelaria

Full Moon February 10th

February 14th Valentine’s day

On the Coast Recurring Events: AA Meetings: English AA 6pm, Puerto Escondido Cafecito Rinconada, Every Thursday English Al-Anon 4:30pm, Puerto Escondido Cafecito Rinconada, Every Saturday Weekly Markets Pochutla Market- Every Monday

February Friday, February 3rd Huatulco Being Art Show Mansiones Cruz del Mar 5pm Saturday, February 4th Huatulco’s Organic Market Santa Cruz 8am-2pm Huatulco Being Art Exhibition, Mansiones Cruz del Mar, 10am3pm Thursday, February 9th Blues on the Beach Latitude 15 Beach Club 8pm Saturday, February 18th Huatulco’s Organic Market Santa Cruz 8am-2pm Sunday, February 19th CorrPorAmor - Run for Love 5K Registration/kits at Restaurant Santa Clara 8 am, Casa Hogar Mi Querido Vieja Sunday, February 26th Encuentro de Cocineros - Local cooks gather with sample dishes to raise money for local charities.

2pm Santa Cruz 100 pesos

February 24th Flag day

February 28th Mardi Gras

Oaxaca City Recurring Events: AA Meetings (English) Daily - Monday and Thursday - 7 pm Also Saturday at 1 pm - All 12 step groups welcome.

518 Colon Religious Services Holy Trinity Anglican Episcopal Church Sundays 11 am Crespo 211 (between Morelos and Matamoros) Liturgy followed by coffee hour. Information 951-514-3799 Religious Society of Quaker Friends Meeting, Saturdays 10 am Free All are welcome. For more information and location, contact janynelyons@hotmail.com Weekly Markets Etla Market, Every Wednesday Tlacolula Market, Every Sunday Biking Oaxaca is More Beautiful on a Bicycle, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday & Sunday - 9 to 10:30 pm Free, Meet in front of Santo Domingo Church Rental bicycles available at Mundo Ceiba, Quintana Roo 2011 You must bring a passport or Oaxacan credentials. They have tandems, too!

Ethnobotanical Garden Tours in English Weekly - Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday - 11 am $100 pesos Entrance Reforma and Constitutión.

Bridge Tuesday Bridge Game at Oaxaca Lending Library, Pino Suarez 519, $20 pesos, no partner necessary, starting at 1:00PM Garden Club Monthly - 1st Wednesday Free The Oaxaca Garden Club is dedicated to: learning, sharing and education about gardening, agriculture and nature, primarily in Oaxaca. To receive the monthly notices of activities, send an email to oaxaca.garden.club@gmail.com Hiking Weekly - Tuesday & Friday 9 am - November thru March Minimal cost for transportation. Hoofing It In Oaxaca (http://www.hoofingitinoaxaca.com/) is a program of weekly hikes for adventurous gringos who hanker to explore this part of Mexico on foot. Reservations required.

Tour to Teotitlán del Valle Weekly - Thursday and Saturday - 9 to 5 pm $750 pesos Instituto Cultural Oaxaca, Av. Benito Juárez 909 Travel, Learn, Fight Poverty. Fundación En Via (www.envia.org/)

zaachila boats Bay Excursion and Sports Fishing

Enjoy the Pacific Coast with friends and family!

Full and Half day excursions!

Cel (228) 110 5605 marejadadefondo@outlook.com

The Eye 18

Marina Chahue, Huatulco Tel. 958 105 1671 Cel. 958 100 7339 Closed Mondays

www.cafejuanitamexico.com

Chiles&Chocolate Cooking Classes Huatulco, Oaxaca

The best way to learn about a culture is through its food.

Chiles&Chocolate Cooking Classes offer a delicious culinary and cultural experience that explore a variety of Southern Mexican cuisine. Our hands-on classes ensure you will leave prepared to recreate the dishes when you get home.

Tel. 958 105 1671 Cel. 958 100 7339 chiles.chocolate@yahoo.com www.huatulco-catering.com

· · · · · · · ·

Small Groups Hands-on Instruction in English Recipe Manual Free Gift Bag Lunch and Drinks Included All classes start at 9:30am Transportation Included

Cost: $85 USD per person Cooking Classes are 3-4 hours Zimatan, Huatulco