July 2012 by The Eye

The Eye

Beach, Village + Urban Living in Oaxaca July 2012, Issue 18 FREE

In this issue... After every storm the sun will smile; for every problem there is a solution, and the soul's indefeasible duty is to be of good cheer. -William R. Alger

17 Stamp Museum

Tile Mosaic

Wind Power

6 Guelagetza

Editor: Jane Bauer Writers: Jane Bauer, Neal Erickson, Julie Etra, Brooke Gazer, Liz Healey, Carole Reedy, Dan Thompson, Elizabeth St-Germaine, Alvin Starkman Photography: Mason Lindquist, Alfredo Patiño, Marisol Pérez-Flores, Alvin Starkman Cover photo: Mason Lindquist Mason Lindquist has been living on the Oaxacan Riviera since 2009, and with his wife Renée, own Resort Real Estate Services.

Advertising Manager: Alfredo Patiño Layout: Jane Bauer

Read The Eye Online www.huatulcoeye.com

t is the time of year when we are reminded of just how much we are at the mercy of the weather. Last month Oaxaca was hit by Carlotta- a hurricane of voluptuous proportions who shimmied her way along the coast leaving fallen trees and dark skies in her wake. The most badly hit areas were Puerto Escondido, Mazunte, Zipolite and towns in the Sierra Madre, with many buildings losing roofs and damage from fallen trees. Quickly people pulled together and have been working to rebuild. If you are interested in offering help to hurricane victims we suggest contacting the local Red Cross in that area. By the time this issue is off the press Mexico will have a new president. The new President of the Republic will serve a six-year term, replacing current President Felipe Calderón. The current 1917 Constitution does not contemplate presidential re-election. Leading in the poles has been former governor of the State of Mexico, PRI Enrique Peña Nieto. He is running against former Mexico City mayor Andres Manuel Lopez Obrador for the PRD and Josefina Vazquez Mota for the PAN. Last month I celebrated 15 years living in this area so I was thrilled to read Carole Reedy’s piece on foreigners living in Mexico. While we all have chosen to live here for different reasons; husbands, jobs, more pesos for your dollar living. One thing is abundantly clear; Mexico is a land of opportunity. It offers an incredible possibility for personal growth and with that many challenges. I consider myself privileged to have gotten to spend such a large part of my life here. Through the hurricanes and elections I continue to be inspired and awed with each day. We hope to bring a little bit of that to our readers with each issue. See you next month,

Jane

Extranjeros in Mexico: How We Got Here, Why We Stay By Carole Reedy

“Your alter country is all that your first was not; commitment to it involves idealism, love, sentimentality, and a certain selective vision.” Julian Barnes in Something to Declare.

hile it's difficult to pinpoint the precise number of immigrants living in Mexico, the 2010 census reveals that less than 1 percent of the population is comprised of foreigners, most of them from other Hispanic countries and the US. That's about a million extranjeros. The reason it's challenging to determine the exact number is that some residents stay “under the radar,” living and working on tourist visas or owning homes but not actually living in Mexico. For centuries, people all over the world have felt compelled to leave their country of birth for human rights and freedom issues or for work opportunities….and even conquest. At the end of the 20th century, employers began sending professionals overseas to their foreign subsidiaries. In a country such as Dubai, for example, just 20 percent of the population are citizens, the rest foreign workers. Necessity isn't the only reason for relocation. In Mexico, we're seeing the Baby Boomer generation ready for retirement and seeking a different, more relaxed way of life and an escape from consumerism. Younger adventurers find satisfaction in Mexico doing their own thing and often finding a life partner. Warm weather and beaches are naturally a draw, but Mexico brings something more: the warmth of the sun extends beyond temperature. Tourists fall in love with the people of Mexico, the relaxed lifestyle, the respect for the ancient culture, the artesanias, the juxtaposition of life and death, the contradictions (and, yes, even the inconveniences), and the opportunities for adventure that Mexico presents. They return year after year, many of them taking the plunge to realize the dream of permanent residence to begin a new life. Many look at it as a renewal.

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Mexico City, known as DF (Distrito Federal) and the largest city in the country, is home to the majority of expats. The smallest state of Tlaxcala (just to the east of DF) has the least. San Miguel de Allende has a large population of Americans and is home to several language schools, as are the cities of Cuernavaca, Guadalajara, and Oaxaca City. After the financial crisis of 2004, many Argentines relocated to Mexico. The sentiments for Mexico are best understood in the following testimonies of expats who have lived in Mexico from 4 to 40 years. Here's a sampling of the reasons they came…and why they stay: Barbara, 40 years in Mexico (from Glasgow to Mexico City) I arrived in Mexico City 40 years ago with an Appalachian zither and a guitar (neither of which I could play), one small suitcase, a pink trouser suit, and high heels. Visiting Mexico was rather fortuitous, the sum of apparently unconnected circumstances, a need for change brought on by death, a bad relationship, and so on. Originally I was going only to New York but I bumped into a friend, recently married to a Mexican and soon due to leave for Mexico City, who invited me to stay with her. I accepted. The rest is the same old story: marriage, children, etc. I've never actually committed myself to the idea of staying forever, but most would say I have done so de facto. Erik, 17 years in Mexico (From Toronto to Tlaxcala) In my life-changing affair, Canada is the nice, stable-butrather boring wife with periodic icy cold spells who I could not imagine leaving until I fell head over heels with the exciting, warm, passionate Mexicana (not the airline). That infatuation grew and matured to where it remade and renewed my attitude, personality, and lifestyle, not to mention allowing me to build the Mayan castle where we live, attend many bullfights, and drive from high forests to the Veracruz beach in a couple of hours. Every day brings stimulation, pleasure, challenges, and decent vodka at US $5 a liter.

Harper, 4 years in Mexico (from Missouri, USA to San Miguel de Allende) Sitting in my Victorian house in the Midwest (US). Listening to the ice-bundled branches of the trees in my yard snap, pop, and hit the roof. Unable to get my car out of the garage due to frozen hinges on garage door. Another month of winter to go. Music, that's what I need. DVD into the player and Lila Downs singing Oaxaca to my soul. Less than three months later I land in Mexico, never to return north or look back. I love my adopted country, the people, traditions, the weather. Four years later: Last week my husband and I returned to San Miguel from a trip to the US, and while our housekeeper was cleaning our home in San Miguel, we went out to breakfast. A few hours after we returned, Bob said “Harper why did you unpack my suitcase?” I hadn't. Turns out the housekeeper had unpacked and put away everything in his suitcase. An hour later he said “Where are my reading glasses?” I said “Phone the housekeeper.” She had cleaned the glasses, put them into their case, and put the case beside his book on the bedside table. You ask this expat why she lives in Mexico! Susan, 42 years in Mexico (from Walla Walla, Washington to Cuernavaca) In 1968 I fell in love with my husband, Antonio, and Mexico too when I first came here as an exchange student. I feel very fortunate living in Cuernavaca, where I can swim outdoors year-round and enjoy a beautiful garden. I do my shopping in the little town just a few minutes away at tienditas and fruterias that look the same today as they did 40 years ago, with friendly people who have time to pass on tips for making salsa and where you can still find a shoe-repair shop, grilled corn on the cob, and freshly squeezed orange juice stands. Most importantly, we have great friends with whom we share common interests (some of them also expats with Mexican spouses) and we seem to simply have more fun here than we do north of the border! Jane, 40 years in Mexico (from a small town in Eastern England to Mexico City) I met my husband on a blind date when he was doing his doctorate at the Royal Veterinary College in London. On his return to Mexico my future husband invited me for a holiday, but not wanting to give me a false impression, he decided to show me the worst of his country (example: eating tacos in the Texcoco market with street dogs looking for scraps beneath the table, which was quite a jolt for “well-brought up” English girl). So we met up several months later in Canada where he was offered an internship. We were eventually married one freezing January morning which made us set our sights on returning as soon as we could to a warmer and more colorful Mexico. There are three main reasons I've stayed in México: the climate, the food, and the husband…in that order. But seriously, I've experienced the entire range of human emotions in this country except for one: I have never been bored-frustrated many times--but never bored. Perhaps this is the secret of my happy permanence in this unpredictable country. Annabella, 30 years in Mexico (from Africa to Tepotzlan) As a child growing up in Africa, the sound of Latin music on the radio was enough to send me off into a cloud and to a place more interesting that my own. Then, as a journalist in London, I met my first Mexicans. We drank tequila and laughed to the glorious romantic music of Mariachis. That did it! I arrived in Mexico over thirty years ago with a Mexican husband and a baby boy under each arm. I raised three children in Mexico City and the surrounding hills; the children grew up loving their country, one reason for me to stay. I can't imagine a country with more potential, not just materialistic opportunities, but spiritual and emotional growth. Here, flexibility reigns over rigidity.

Gretchen, 11 years in Mexico (from Texas to Tlaxcala) My husband and I are in Mexico because he's an explorer. We lived on the border (Eagle Pass, Texas, and Piedras Negras, Coahuila) for about 12 years and launched road trips from there. We came to Tlaxcala because we had friends here and it felt safe. We stay because it is. Melissa, 4 years in Mexico (from Ottawa, Canada to San Agustinillo, Oaxaca) Why I came to Mexico is not the same reason I stay. I came to Mexico because I love the country and its people. My reasons for staying here long-term are more practical. I live in a paradise on the beach with my wonderful husband who I met here. I can live for a month on what I would spend on rent alone in Toronto. I miss my family and old friends in Canada, but as long as my children keep visiting, I am happy here. It would not have been possible for me to stay without the internet, which keeps us in contact daily. I realize it's not the same as hugging and smelling them, but it keeps me in the loop. In today's world, if you want to be close to your kids, get Facebook! Betty, 17 years in Mexico (from San Francisco to San Miguel de Allende) I spent many years traveling throughout Mexico. When I first came to San Miguel I somehow knew it would be my home. I returned several times before making that decision, which was fueled by work issues, the difficulty of living in SF, and a compelling feeling that I needed my oldest son to be more independent. I stay because this is now my home. I know how to get what I need here and I have lots of friends. I love knowing all of the taxi drivers, all the people in the small shops, and many Mexican people I see in the street frequently. Also, I love the culture of this town, all of the fiestas, the fireworks, the church bells. Knowing what it all means is such a gift. Author Julian Barnes continues by saying: “Over the years however, you may discover that the alluring differences only half conceal grinding similarities. You may also start noticing aspects of the otherness that you dislike, or which seem aimed at destroying what initially drew you to the country.” Most expats, especially those who have been here for many years, agree that the country has changed and (over)grown, local customs being replaced by cheap imitations--chain stores and restaurants, malls taking over small businesses. It's also true that some expats love the ability to get fine wines and foreign gastronomic treats previously unavailable here. There's no question though that, for the money, expats can't imagine finding anywhere else the fine quality of life and the fun they have in Mexico. As one interviewee said “This isn't just a new chapter in my life--it's a whole new book, with a happy ending.”

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www.huatulco-catering.com Eye 5

July in Oaxaca is Synonymous with The Guelaguetza By Alvin Starkman, M.A., J.D.

he Guelaguetza is the most colorful and exhilarating of

Guelaguetza has been translated from the Zapotec both as

the multitude of festivals in Oaxaca, with pageantry

“offering” and the “reciprocal exchange of gifts or services.”

unrivaled in all Mexico. In a state with 16 different

The pre-Hispanic origins of the Guelaguetza assist in

indigenous cultures, each with unique traditions, language,

unraveling the relationship between its literal meaning and its

food, music, dress and dance, it should come as no surprise

current format, including why, where and when regional

that the annual two-week July extravaganza draws both

delegations descend upon Oaxaca to reenact spectacles of

Mexican nationals and tourists from all corners of the globe.

indigenous rites.

The official Guelaguetza celebrations, commonly referred to as

More than three thousand years ago hunters and gatherers of

the Lunes del Cerro (Mondays on the Hill), take place in an

the region began to develop a more sedentary lifestyle, in large

open-air auditorium overlooking Oaxaca City. They occur the

part due to the cultivation of corn, then other foodstuffs such

last two Mondays of July, except if the second last Monday of

as tomatoes, squash, beans and chiles. But corn remained

the month falls on July 18, the anniversary of the death of

the key staple, and the rains which traditionally began during

Benito Juárez, Mexico's first indigenous president and

the summer months assured its growth and an abundant

Oaxaca's native son. In this case the festivities take place on

supply throughout the year. It thus became usual practice to

the subsequent two Mondays.

pay tribute to the gods and goddesses responsible for

Folkloric dance troupes come to Oaxaca from the farthest

continued and thus produced the healthiest of fall harvests.

bountiful yields during mid-summer to ensure that the rains reaches of the eight regions of the state to perform their

This manifested in the giving and exchange of initially

distinctly unique dances to traditional native music. The live

foodstuffs and then locally handcrafted products such as clay

performances are designed to convey the richness of day-to-

pots and other wares. The feast of Xilonen, goddess of tender

day life in the particular part of Oaxaca, ranging from

corn, fell on what is in the Christian calendar July 16.

representations of marriage rituals, to coastal net fishing. Some have a not-so-subtle always humorous sexual subtext

The Spanish, upon arrival in Oaxaca in 1521, on the one hand

manifest in both dance and telling of local tales. Imagery and

attempted to impose their beliefs on the indigenous peoples

movement are sufficiently universal to ensure that knowledge

through conversion to Catholicism, while on the other sought

of Spanish is not a pre-requisite for enjoying and becoming

to maintain at least some relevance for the natives through

thoroughly enthralled in what is being recreated through

reinterpreting their longstanding traditions. One way was to

dance, music, and at times light discourse.

incorporate the Guelaguetza into the July 16 celebration of the feast of the Virgin of Carmen, beginning at the church of

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Carmen Alto, once a Zapotec site.

Eventually the Guelaguetza began to focus on the two Mondays following July 16, and its location changed to the “Cerro del Fortín” which during the 15th century had become the location of Aztec garrisons. The ridge was, and thereafter remained, a place for gathering – and celebrating the Guelaguetza.

In 1932, as part of the city's 400th anniversary

festivities and its designation as a royal city by King Carlos V of Spain, the forerunner of the modern Guelaguetza was born, with representatives of ethnic groups from the different parts of the state invited to participate. Thus, 2012 takes on special significance, and has been designated as the festival's 80th anniversary. La Temporada de la Guelaguetza is a time for every Oaxacan to set aside political differences, inequalities and struggles, to pay tribute to the state's multiplicity of rich cultural traditions. The festivities also serve as a reminder that both government and the people must, for generations to come, strive to preserve indigenous heritage through promoting each culture's precious customs. Watching the Guelaguetza is awe inspiring. It enhances our appreciation of the different mores and traditions which have endured for centuries, if not longer.

It reminds us of the

state's so very rich diversity of rituals. At the end of each troupe's performance, members toss gifts (i.e. offerings) to those in the stands, products brought down from their particular sub-region, ranging from straw hats and mats, to coffee, fruits, vegetables and nuts, to souvenirs created specifically to distribute. One cannot help but leave the Guelaguetza exhausted from cultural overload, but with a special understanding of the magic of Oaxaca. For Oaxacans

The Guelaguetzas take place July 23 & 30, at 10 a.m. & 5 p.m.

it instills a renewed pride.

(free in the upper sections, but attend hours early to be

This year, ancillary events include the downtown parade of

and 600 pesos for Palco B, available through Ticketmaster,

assured seating; otherwise, tickets are 800 pesos for Palco A delegates on the Saturdays, and Sunday evenings at 8:30 p.m.

tourism offices and select travel agencies). Each event lasts

at the same auditorium

three hours.

the performance of the Legend of

Donají, the last Zapotec princess (at a cost of 100 pesos for seating in palcos [stands] A & B, upper seating free). Though

Many of the towns and villages hold free Peoples'

still in its planning stages, on the Sunday evenings a

Guelaguetzas during the two week period.

performance entitled Las Tradiciones del Istmo is scheduled

times and locations at your lodging.

Ask for dates,

for La Plaza de la Danza.

entertaining. But nothing compares to the state sponsored

They too are very

Guelaguetza on the Cerro del Fortín; experiencing all the color and pageantry on a grandiose scale while sitting in the stands, the stage in front, the spectacular valley of Oaxaca and distant mountains as backdrop.

www.oaxacabedandbreakfast.org Mention this ad for a 10% discount on your stay. Some restrictions apply.

Alvin Starkman attended his first Guelaguetza in 1991. He is a paid contributing writer for Mexico Today, a program for Marca País – Imagen de México. Alvin and his wife Arlene operate Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast (www.oaxacadream.com). Alvin frequently takes visitors to the sites in Oaxaca's central valleys.

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Rotary/ Rotaract Huatulco By Elizabeth St-Germainee

n May 9 Rotary hosted a Motherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Day breakfast at Cosmoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Ocean Bar to help raise funds for various projects currently being conducted by the club. A fashion show was presented by Ms. Evelia Copka, with original designs of unique Mexican style clothing, manufactured in Mexico and made with high quality materials, perfect attire for our beloved Huatulco. The models for the event were beautiful, longtime residents and well known women from our community. The event culminated with a raffle for a ride on the Cosmo Residences yacht. On Saturday May 19th, the Rotaract Club of Huatulco in coordination with the Rotary Club, held a fellowship for

families who live and work in the Huatulco Refuse Depository (garbage dump). The main objective of this gathering was to donate toys to the children and groceries to the mothers, many of whom work and live at this site. The event included lunch, contests and games for the children with special appearances by Batman and Captain America. Good times and great fun were had by all. The Rotary Club of Huatulco appreciates the support and collaboration of: Cosmo Residences, Barcelo Hotel and Hotel Las Brisas for their help and participation in these events. Contact email: clubrotariohuatulco@yahoo.com

Blowin' in the Wind By Neal Erickson

he need for renewable energy sources has been high in the collective world consciousness for quite some time. According to some, as Bob Dylan wrote: “The answer is blowin' in the Wind.” As you drive toward Chiapas from Oaxaca on highway 190, you enter the Isthmus of Tehuantepec, and will pass through some of the biggest wind farms in Latin America. On both sides of the road, at times seeming to stretch out as far as the eye can see, are acres and acres of futuristic-looking electricity-generating windmills. The Isthmus is only approximately 200km wide at it's narrowest, and separates the Gulf of Mexico and the Pacific Ocean. Also at this point, the Sierra Madre Mountain range flattens out to a plateau before rising to the Sierras of Chiapas, creating a natural funnel for winds from the Gulf to pass through to the Pacific, and viceversa. Wind power engineers consider 14.9 mph to be a good yearround average when considering an area for wind farms, and 16.3 is thought to be excellent. The average wind speed in the area of the Isthmus that is being developed in recent years is more than 19 mph. It is said that in the winter, gusts of wind in this funnel have flipped tractor-trailor trucks. From 2005 through 2010, the output in wind-generated electricity from this region grew from 3 megawatts to over 500. Construction continues, fueled by a Calderon Administration goal of 2500MW by the end of 2012. Because of the costs and highly technical nature of these power-generating systems, they are not all owned and operated by one entity. Financing has been arranged by various consortiums and involve investments and commitments by the World Bank, Walmart de Mexico, FEMSA

(controlling company of Oxxo and also of Latin America's largest Coca-Cola bottler), and Dutch brewer Heineken, among others. Windmill technology has been improving steadily, and windmills installed in the Istmus have been ordered from several companies around the world, from California to as far away as Denmark. There has been disquiet in the communities affected by these wind farms, primarily because locals have been left out of the planning and decisions leading up to the construction. These areas are some of the poorest regions in Mexico, and least served relative to infrastructure. Many outlying communities in the area do not have electric service. Of course jobs related to the new construction are welcomed. Numerous people have taken the money paid them for land usage and damage, and begun small businesses that serve the new construction activity. Some feel, however, that if more consideration was given to the locals, more could be done beyond that to benefit the area. Some complaints have been filed relating to perceived low compensation levels for landowners, and the disruption to the farms, etc. after projects begin construction. Locals feel some projects were presented in a misleading fashion, taking advantage of the less educated and illiterate. The main thrust of this rapid growth in wind power generation is of course driven by the fact that Mexico's petroleum supply is finite, and the government recognizes the need for alternative sources of power generation. Some feel that President Calderon, a former energy minister, has used the wind farms as test cases for privatization of Mexico's electricity industry, but the fact remains that oil will eventually be in short supply and alternatives are needed. With the high price of oil and the recent advances in wind power technology, the wind farms have proven to be an extremely viable solution.

Must see movie... Windfall (documentary 2012) Wind power… it’s sustainable … it burns no fossil fuels…it produces no air pollution. What’s more, it cuts down dependency on foreign oil. That’s what the people of Meredith, in upstate New York first thought when a wind developer looked to supplement the rural farm town’s failing economy with a farm of their own -- that of 40 industrial wind turbines. WINDFALL, a beautifully photographed feature length film, documents how this proposal divides Meredith’s residents as they fight over the future of their community. Attracted at first to the financial incentives that would seemingly boost their dying economy, a group of townspeople grow increasingly alarmed as they discover the impacts that the 400-foot high windmills slated for Meredith could bring to their community as well as the potential for financial scams. With wind development in the United States growing annually at 39 percent, WINDFALL is an eye-opener that should be required viewing for anyone concerned about the environment and the future of renewable energy. www.windfallthemovie.com

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Passionate Readers: Who Are We? By Carole Reedy '“And she is the reader who browses the shelf and looks for new worlds but finds herself.” ― Laura Purdie Salas, Poems about Books

f you are browsing through this issue of The Eye, you are probably a reader, traveler, or adventurer, or all three wrapped into one. There are as many different types of readers as there are moles in Oaxaca. Some read for information, others for facts about travel, the weather, politics, and the state of the world. Some read to pass the time-in the doctor's office, on a plane or bus, or while waiting in one of those long Mexican lines at the bank. Some people read for adventure and to escape the day to day hum-drum routine. Some read for beauty or emotion. Emily Dickenson once said, “If I read a book and it makes my body so cold no fire can ever warm me, I know that it is poetry.” But there are people for whom reading is part of their lives. They read everywhere and always have a book close at hand, in a purse or tote, in pocket or in hand, cuddled in their arms and, most importantly, on a bedside table. Bookshelves replace furniture in their homes. They read while eating at home and in restaurants. They not only read on the bus, but while waiting for the bus or while watching television or waiting for their slow internet connection to improve or water to boil on the stove. Reading is nourishment as important as food or love. Conversations inevitably turn to books, and authors are as revered as Gandhi or Mozart. Their friends, husbands, wives, partners and children are readers. They feel a type of anxiety when they finish a book and haven't yet decided what to read next. Their identity is closely linked to what they read. Call it a passion, an obsession, a quirk, an addiction.

Bugumbilia 703 Tel. (958) 100 2488 karinahuatulco@hotmail.com On the Zocalo, La Crucecita Huatulco, Oaxaca

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It is as much an art form as thinking or writing. “No two persons have ever read the same book,” according to Edmund Wilson. Whether you are a serious or a casual reader, we hope you will join us every month on this page, where we'll discuss books, magazines, book clubs, Mexico, travel resourcesanything about the written word.

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Next month's topic: Sometimes the best guide book is a novel. Send your questions, comments, and ideas to carolina_reedy(at)yahoo.com

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Señorita Manners “Her godmother simply touched her with her wand, and, at the same moment, her clothes were turned into cloth of gold and silver, all decked with jewels.” Charles Perrault

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Projects and Construction Prefab Homes Modern Roofing Systems Sheds Azucena Perez Andrade azucenapa@hotmail.com Tel. 958 116 9207 Juan Carlos Macias Peralta juancmp122@hotmail.com Tel. 958 100 4556

t is the time of year for school graduations and you may be fortunate enough to have been asked to be a madrina or padrino. In pop culture godmothers turn pumpkins into horse drawn carriages and godfathers make sure anyone who crosses you is sleeping with the fishes. In the Christian tradition godparents are whom parents choose to have legal guardianship in the event that something happens to them. Given all these expectations, when you are asked to be a madrina/padrino de graduacion you might be a little unsure of how to respond or what this entails. Have no fear! Being a madrina/padrino for a graduation ceremony can be a one time deal but his does not diminish what an honor it is to be asked. Parents chose someone close to the family or someone they have a great deal of respect for. It can also be a way to honor a person who has helped or had an influence on the child’s education. Mexicans love a good fiesta and schools are no exception. There are elaborate graduation ceremonies starting in kindergarten. Students often spend weeks practicing dances to present at the graduation. As a godparent you will be expected to attend the ceremony. You should bring a gift such a gold jewelry or something having to do with education. Money is always appreciated and is an appropriate gift. After the ceremony you will be invited back to the house or a restaurant for a meal. It may expected that you will help to contribute financially to the clothing your hijada/hijado will need for the graduation ceremony- especially in poorer communities. If you are unsure, just ask or offer. The level of commitment required after the event is entirely up to you. You can check in on you hijada/hijado’s progress at school, acknowledge birthdays and you may be asked to attend future events as madrina/padrino. However do not be offended if you are not asked at the next graduation. If you are unable or uninterested to perform this service it is entirely proper to decline.

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Salchiâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Artist in Residence By Liz Healey

hen Beltran Arenas, a reporter/photographer from Oaxaca City first arrived in Salchi 5 years ago with his friend, Meghan Wood, he couldn't imagine what a life-changing visit it would be. Beltran wanted to learn English, and he was soon adopted into the Wood family. Meghan's mother, Annie, is an artist, and Beltran became fascinated with her projects in Salchi, especially the tile mosaics that she was creating. He worked with Annie to refine his artistic talents and was soon designing and creating his own tile masterpieces. He created the Salchi logo and did several large pieces in homes. At that time, businesses in Canada were experiencing a labor shortage for generally unskilled labor. After discussions with Larry Davis, owner of pubs in Calgary, Alberta, it was decided that Beltran would travel to Canada to work and hone his English skills. Beltran stayed in Canada for 3 years, living with the Wood family and working for Davis' various

businesses. He continued to work with Annie on many art projects and also became entrenched in the Mexican community in Calgary, becoming the head of its association and leading the Calmeca folk dancers. At the end of the three years, Beltran's visa expired, and he moved to Morelia where he continues working on his tile mosaics. Returning to Salchi last Christmas he brought several tiled mirrors, picture frames and large pots to sell. Homeowners were very excited by his return, snapping up his frames and pots and commissioning murals in their homes. Since returning, Beltran has completed the second of his commissions and has at least 8 more to go; he plans to be working on them through the summer season. Our very own artist in residence has truly added a unique touch to our little community, and Beltran has certainly become a part of our extended family. It was truly serendipitous that he arrived in Salchi those few short years ago.

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RESTAURANT, HOTEL & SPA Zipolite Beach, Oaxaca www.el-alquimista.com Tel. 958 587 8962

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Into the Wild By Brooke Gazer

l Parque Nacional Huatulco is one of 67 National Parks in Mexico. Having recognized its value for eco-tourism and conservation, the Mexican government set aside 29,000 acres of land and sea as a protected reserve in 1988 and the area was officially designated as a National Park in July 1998. The establishment of PNH was a major coup for both local and international conservationists since the area hosts several species of plants, birds, amphibians and sea life that are unique to the region. The 15,753 acres of park land is an incredibly diverse area with four separate eco-systems. (An acre is about the size of a football field.) These include mangrove forests, found within several coastal lagoons, fresh water marshes, low deciduous forest and evergreen forest. The other half of the reserve consists of ocean and coral reefs which were discussed in the June issue. This park supports about 430 varieties of plants and trees, 130 species of mammals, 72 kinds of reptiles and 291 species of birds. All this in addition to an unlimited number of insects including almost 400 types of butterflies. This wealth of flora and fauna is enough reason to have established a reserve but even more importantly; this region is inhabited by several endangered species. Within the mammal group, these would include jaguarundi, puma, margay, lynx, and anteater. In terms of forests, three varieties of Mangroves alone are endangered. The region is especially important for the survival of migratory birds as it is a major resting ground before and after the long trek to South America. The diversity of birds includes pelicans, hawks, eagles, parrots, woodpeckers, owls, herons, doves, ducks and hummingbirds. Some of the feathered inhabitants who are in danger of extinction are the Sinaloa Wren, the Golden-cheeked Woodpecker and the West Mexican Chacalaca. PNH is a young park however and it does not have a great deal of infrastructure. The number of pathways is limited as are other facilities. The park is home to some species of viperous snakes and is not the kind of place for the novice hiker to wander into alone. In fact tourists are required to register with the park authorities before and after visiting. This requirement is both to help protect the delicate eco systems and to ensure that no one is left injured within the terrain after dark. The office for Huatulco National Park is in La Crucecita, on Avenida Guamachil across from the movie theaters. A fee of 27 pesos is charged to access the park and a wrist band can be purchased at this office. The Park itself is located between the Airport and La Crucecita. If you decide to visit, please remember the international etiquette of all national parks â&#x20AC;&#x153;Take only pictures, Leave only footprintsâ&#x20AC;?

Brooke Gazer operates a B&B in Huatulco www.bbaguaazul.com

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Jaguarundi

Hummingbird

Margay

Golden Cheeked Woodpecker

These are official tour guides that are permitted to take tours into the National Park, both are bilingual and will pick you up at your hotel Tours last about 3 hours costing about 500 pesos and should be arranged a few days advance. Entrance fee is included in the tour price. BIRDING TOURS: Corneilo Ramos is well versed and passionate about his subject. He can tailor his excursion to either the novice or the expert birder. Binoculars and a telescope are provided. CEL 958 106 57 49; 958 58 9 12 11 www.birdguidecornelio@yahoo.com.mx www.coug.net/cornelio BICYCLE TOURS: Offers three levels of tours depending on the experience and ability of the cyclist. Bicycle and helmet rental is included in the price. CEL 958 100 61 42; 958 106 39 29 biciguiasdecacaluta@gmail.com

Out and About...

Undeterred by the ravages of Carlotta, over 100 runners came out for the 10 km race on June 17th through Huatulcoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s National Park

Huatulco Rotaryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Mother Day Breakfast

Chiapas Jaguars with Huatulco Municipal President Lorenzo Lavariega and Yvonne Kraak.

lco

tu a u H

Idol

Huatulco Idol Judges; Otto from Tropikalbikes, Tirza Bonifazi from radio 102.3 and Juan Manuel from Despertares Dance Company

Hurricane Carlotta

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Finalists Tanivet, Gabriel, Nelida, Popol Vuh and Los Lunaticos.

1st place winner Gabriel

Beyond the Guelagetza 10 things to do in Oaxaca City

What are you doing this winter?

By Jane Bauer

Immigration Lawyer I. Art Classes at Frida Kahlo Art Store Saturday mornings from 10am-3pm FREE oil painting art classes are given at the store. Bring your own material or purchase on the spot. Frida Kahlo Armenta Y Lopez 503 Oaxaca Centre, Oaxaca 951.514-5349 2.Cooking Class with Pilar Cabrera A delicious way to explore Oaxacan culture. Start off with a shopping excursion in a local market and finish with a family style meal you prepared. www.casadelossabores.com Read more from our October issue www.issuu.com/huatulcoeye/docs/october 2011 3. Streets in Historical Center Closed for Bicycling With an ever growing bike culture there are lots of places to rent or borrow bicycles. Ask your hosts or hotel for the nearest location. Sunday 9 am to 1 pm - Free Independencia to Reforma to Conzatti Park to García Vigil back to Independencia

4. Mushroom Festival July 21st & 22nd San Antonio Cuahimoloyas *see map on pg 22 Tel: 951 175 6762 micologica.oaxaca@gmail.com Read the article on mushrooms in our April issue .www.issuu.com/huatulcoeye/docs/april20 12 5. San Pablo Cultural Center This beautifully open renovated space has a café, an area with children’s books and bean bag chairs for lounging. Stop in and rest. FREE Antiquo callejon de San Pablo (Independencia 904

6. Xochimilco Organic Market Held in the courtyard of the local church this open air market is full of organic delicacies from sopes made with nut butter instead of lard to vegetarian sushi. Come hungry and leave happy. Fridays and Saturday mornings 7.Touring villages with Alvin Starkman If you missed the Mushroom Festival but are interested in exploring the area, Alvin Starkman is the go to guy. With a wealth of knowledge from mezcal to chapulines to barro negro he will give you the inside on the villages around Oaxaca. oaxacadream(at)hotmail.com

Lic. Perla Vazquez Moctezuma Andador Coyula, Santa Cruz Hotel Maxico, Local #1 Huatulco, Oaxaca Tel. 958 583 4065 Cel. 958 107 3221 perlamoctezuma@hotmail.com

8. Danzón with the Marimba Band Although danzón is the official genre and dance of Cuba it is also an active musical form in Mexico. Enjoy this vibrant outdoor music show. Wednesdays 6:30pm - Free Zócalo 9. Ethnobotanical Garden The only way to see this wonderful garden is on a tour, come prepared with water and sunscreen. Arrive ten minutes before the tours to purchase tickets. Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday 11am - $100 pesos Entrance Reforma & Constitutión Read more from our March issue. www.iissuu.com/huatulcoeye/docs/march 10. Museo Filatelia de Oaxaca (Stamp Museum) The permanent collection houses letters from Frida Kahlo to her doctor Leo Eloesser. It is fascinating to read about the spinal injuries whose pain had such a huge influence on her art. Museo de Filatelia de Oaxaca, A.C. Reforma 504, Centro Histórico, Oaxaca www.mufi.org.mx 10am-8pm

2 blocks from the main square! Guarumbo 15 La Crucecita, Huatulco Tel.(958) 583 4594 Cel. (958) 106 6625 hostalunacreciente@gmail.com

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Land of the Maguey By Julie Etraa

aguey or Agave comes from the Greek word Agavo, which means magnificent, noble, admirable. Other common names are pita, cabuya, fique, mescal, toba (in Zapotec) and ki (Maya). One of the 9 bays of Huatulco is named for this plant. They are abundant in the Mexican landscape and form a dominant portion of the vegetation in many parts of Mexico, especially in semi-arid regions. Distribution is from the Canadian-US border to Bolivia, including the Caribbean. The greatest diversity is in Mexico, home to 76% of the world's population or 157 species of which 71% (111) are endemic, meaning they occur nowhere else. Fifty-two species occur in the state of Oaxaca. The origin of this group of plants dates to the Miocene or about 15 million years ago. They flower only once, after about 10-12 years and also reproduce vegetatively which is how they are generally cultivated. They have lifespan of about 25 years and are pollinated by bats and hummingbirds. The maguey is sacred among the Mexica. Legend has it that Mayahuel, who became the goddess of pulque, was a beautiful young woman that lived in the heavens with her wicked grandmother, a type of star known as tizintimime who daily tried to impede the appearance of the sun with her 'army' of evil star soldiers. The beautiful young goddess fled with the god Quetzalcóatl to hide in a leafy, bi-furcated tree where they turned into branches. The grandmother discovered them and with her stars and they cut her from the tree while the other branch, or Quetzalcóatl, survived. The star army devoured Mayahuel. Quetzalcóatl collected and buried her remains and from her grave emerged the first maguey plant, the very same plant that produces pulque. Agaves are one of the most important groups of plants in terms of their cultural and economic ties to Mexico. No plant has had as much intertwined history with the people of Mexico. Archeological finds in a cave near Mitla in the Valley of Oaxaca indicate their use for fiber and food around 10,000 years ago. Well known is the extraction of mezcal as well as tequila, although these are from different plants and over 20 types of maguey are used just for mezcal. Aguamiel is the sap or juice of certain species and is highly nutritious; it is also fermented and known as pulque and distilled for mezcal. Bacanora is another distilled beverage with pre-colonial origins made in Sonora. Uses are multiple: rope, fiber, food, medicine, artisanal decorations, construction material such as roofing, live fencing, soap, baskets, fabric, needles, brushes, musical instruments, and livestock forage. The Mayans made pillows, clothes and shoes out of the fibers. Agave atrovirens, among others species of maguey, has a variety of medicinal uses including treatment for diabetes, pulmonary problems such as persistent coughing, and back pain. Escamoles are ant larvae that live in agave roots and are

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considered a Mexican delicacy as are meocuiles, a butterfly larvae, found on the leaves of Agave tequilana. Ayates are a type of pre-hispanic woven basket made of agave fiber. The flowers of species of maguey can be simmered with onions, garlic, and other herbs to produce a 'caldo' or broth. Sisal or henequen was a common type of rope fiber until the advent of synthetic fibers in the 1950s, and along with its competitive cultivation outside of Mexico this lead to the collapse of the industry in Mexico. Sisal is actually the name of the port on the Yucatan from where the material was shipped in its heyday (as well as Progreso). Although it had been extensively used by pre-Hispanic cultures, it was not commercially produced until the mid19th century following an interesting series of events. The first haciendas cultivated by the Spanish conquerors in the Yucatan were in the south where soils were most fertile. Corn, cane sugar, and citrus production dominated this region. In 1847, the Caste War broke out, lasting until 1901. Mayan workers rebelled and demanded their land back. Plantation owners fled north to the less fertile limestonederived soils and determined they could commercially cultivate only maguey, which does not require irrigation or fertilizer. The government, along with the plantation owners, began the development of a sisal industry and the 'green gold' era was born, lasting to mid 20th century. Up to around 1904 there were over a thousand henequen-producing haciendas, some of which were enormous and over 13,000 hectares. The owners were extremely wealthy and although Mexican born were of Spanish decent and considered almost a divine class while exploitation of Mayan workers continued. The haciendas were basically autonomous and had their own churches and schools with company stores. Today you can visit some of the luxurious homes of the hacendados or owners that line the Paseo Montejo in Merida. Henequen completely transformed the region and centers like Merida boomed. Even Korean laborers were brought in. Although there is a current movement to revive components of the industry, Brazil is now a principal world exporter. In the US if you buy sisal from a chain hardware store it is most often from China. However, if you buy Oaxacan coffee at one of the gourmet roasters the sacks, or costales, are usually made from sisal. Sacks of varying weaves, as well and products for interior decorating are still produced in the Yucatan. CICY (Centro de Investigaciones Científicas de Yucatán), located in Merida is currently investigating alternative uses of the fibers for construction material such as laminates and plywood as well as a plant growth medium in combination with coconut fiber for horticultural use.

Sky Watching Highlights for July By Dan Thompson

. Source:earthsky.org On summer evenings, you can spot red Antares, the ruby Heart of Scorpius the Scorpion. It is the 16th brightest star and one of the most gigantic stars known

hanks to the University Of Texas MacDonald Observatory for the following Sky watching tips for July.

July is all about triplets. In the evening sky it’s Mars, Saturn and Spica. And in the morning sky it’s Venus and Jupiter - the two brightest objects in the sky after the moon – and Aldebaran, the brightest star of Taurus. They are bunched together in the first part of the month and are in the eastern sky at first light.) Here are some of the months highlights: July 1: Mercury lies low in the west at nightfall with Regulus is to its upper left. July 9: Aldebaran (the brightest star in Taurus) is to the lower right of Venus in the dawn sky. Jupiter looms above them. July 12: Venus is at its brightest for its “morning star” appearance. July 14/15: The crescent moon teams up with Venus, Jupiter and Aldebaran in the dawn sky. July 24/25. The moon sits next to two planets and a bright star in the western evening sky. On the 24th, Mars is to the upper right of the moon, with Spica and Saturn to the upper left. On the 25th, the moon is to the left of the trio of bright pin points. July 28: Antares, the eye of the scorpion, stands close to the lower right of the moon at nightfall.

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Huatulco Eye Donation Boxes

House share for sale San Agustinillo, Oaxaca. Beautiful 3 BR 3BA home with pool. One third share $150,000 USD firm. No monthly fees. More details and photos contact richard.rodger@charter.net

Gorgeous 2 bdr. Beach House in Salchi Bay Turn Key Opportunity $260 000 USD For photos and more info: ritapaterson@hotmail.com

View View View 3 levels of ocean vista, stairs to beach, contemporary, hip, turnkey. 958 100 4484, casavolare@hotmail.com, www.web.me.com/swanfun/Site/casa_ volare.html

We accept the following: Gently used clothing, items for children, toys, toiletries, books (in Spanish and English), non-perishable food items, cleaning supplies. We deliver to Piña Palmera, un Nuevo Amanecer, Bacaanda Foundation, Red Cross Huatulco, DIF and individuals in need.

Bed & Breakfast With spectacular ocean views $89. - $109. USD/room/night www.bbaguaazul.com (011 52) 958 5810265

VILLAS CAREY

Boxes are located at the following: Señor Puck’s, Resort Real Estate, Café Juanita and Hemingway’s

FOR SALE- Elegant Villas in Balcones de Tangolunda azucenapa3@hotmail.com tel 958 100 4556

QUINTA REAL, HUATULCO On grounds of Quinta Real Hotel. Partial ownership of 2 bdrm unit, Fully furnished. Privacy, Beach Club, Hotel Service. Member, Elite Alliance Group. $ 85 000 USD Info: huatulcoeye@yahoo.com

The River House Zimatan, Oaxaca www.theriverhouse-huatulco.com

Advertise in The Eye... huatulcoeye@yahoo.com Handyman

Notary Lic. Barbara García Valencia

Tomy’s The real Spa pleasure of resting

Tel (958) 105 1517 notaria113hux@gmail.com

Massage, Body Treatments, Facials

Palma Real 304 Cel. 958 107 6133

Blvd. Santa Cruz # 303 Local 5 y 6 Santa Cruz, Huatulco, Oaxaca

MERIDA MOTORS

Cel. 958 100 3393

Sabali 45, La Crucecita Tel. 958 583 4014

Lote 193, Sector T, Huatulco Tel. 958 105 1771 Cel. 958 1034700

Glass & Aluminum

“Fresh great tasting culinary delights in very warm friendly atmosphere” -LynxCalgary

Santa Cruz, Huatulco 958 587 2655 Closed Mondays www.cafejuanitamexico.com

“BAHIAS” Fresh Fish Everyday! Macuhitle 101 La Crucecita, Huatulco

Custom made Windows and Doors Manzana 12 Lot 7 U2 South Huatulco, Oaxaca

Tel. 958 853 4632

Thank you to our Advertisers who make publishing The Eye possible. If you read about them here, please mention it when you use their services.

July SUN

MON

English AA 6pm Puerto Escondido

Federal Election Mexico

Canada Day

TUES

Cafecito Riconada

Young Oaxacan Poets IAGO - Graphic Arts Institute Av. Juárez 203 7pm FREE

English AA 6pm Puerto Escondido

16 English AA 6pm Puerto Escondido Cafecito Rinconada

Baseball Guerreros vs Quintana Roo 5pm Vasconcelos Stadium $50 pesos

FRI

Coco Nogales Surf Classic Tournament Puerto Escondido

English AA 6pm Puerto Escondido Cafecito Riconada

Baseball Guerreros vs Monclavo 7pm Vasconcelos Stadium $50 pesos

SAT

Rally Guelagetza Car Race Oaxaca- Huatulco Baseball Guerreros vs Monclavo 5pm Vasconcelos Stadium $50 pesos

Cafecito Riconada

Lunes del Cerro Oaxaca

Donají: The Legend 8:30 pm Guelaguetza Stadium Cerro de Fortin $100 pesos Palco A & B, rest free

Baseball Baseball Baseball Guerreros vs Laguna Guerreros vs Laguna Guerreros vs Laguna 7pm Vasconcelos Stadium 7pm Vasconcelos Stadium 7pm Vasconcelos Stadium $50 pesos $50 pesos $50 pesos

Cafecito Riconada

Independence Day USA

THURS

English AA 6pm Puerto Escondido

Baseball Guerreros vs Monclavo 5pm Vasconcelos Stadium $50 pesos

WED

English AA 6pm Puerto Escondido Cafecito Riconada

19 English AA 6pm Puerto Escondido

For Info: Cafecito Riconada adamsurfmexico1@hotmail.com

Moon Day

Wild Mushroom Festival San Antonio Cuahimoloyas

Baseball Baseball Guerreros vs Quintana Roo Guerreros vs Quintana Roo 7pm Vasconcelos Stadium 5pm Vasconcelos Stadium $50 pesos $50 pesos

25 Rotary Club Huatulco Puerto Escondido 8pm

English AA 6pm Puerto Escondido Cafecito Riconada

Guelagetza Dinner Show Hotel Marina, Huatulco $450 pesos 01 800 712 7753

Guelaguetza 2012 9 am & 5 pm Guelaguetza Stadium

English AA Huatulco 8pm

Pedro Cervantes, clarinet Teatro Juárez 8pm, 100 pesos Av. Juárez at LLano Park

Baseball Baseball Baseball Guerreros vs Yucantan Guerreros vs Yucantan Guerreros vs Yucantan 7pm Vasconcelos Stadium 7pm Vasconcelos Stadium 7pm Vasconcelos Stadium $50 pesos $50 pesos $50 pesos

Guelagetza Dinner Show Hotel Marina, Huatulco $450 pesos 01 800 712 7753

Guelaguetza 2012 9 am & 5 pm Guelaguetza Stadium

Rotary Club Huatulco Puerto Escondido 8pm

English AA 6pm Puerto Escondido

English AA Huatulco 8pm For Info: adamsurfmexico1@hotmail.com

Book Launch El Libro Uruguayo de los Muertos by Mario Bellatin 7pm La Jicara Porfirio Diaz 1105

Announce your event for FREE huatulcoeye@yahoo.com

On the Riviera Oaxaca City

Cafecito Riconada

12th Wild Mushroom Festival July 21st & 22nd San Antonio Cuahimoloyas Info: Tel: 951 175 67 62 email: micologica.oaxaca@gmail.com

Moon Day commemorates the day man first walked on the moon on July 20th, 1969. The Apollo Space program, begun by President John F. Kennedy, was created to put the first man on the moon. Apollo 11 fulfilled that dream, carrying astronauts Neil Armstrong, Michael Collins, and Edwin Aldrin, Jr. What an amazing and historic event it was!

Until July 25th